DESIGN No. 29.

RESIDENCE OF LINDLEY M. FERRIS, ESQ.,

NEAR POUGHKEEPSIE, N. Y.

The residence of Mr. Ferris, of which we give the plans only, is located south of the city of Poughkeepsie, and almost or quite within its suburbs. The surrounding estate, of 150 acres of handsomely rolling land, possesses all the attractions of beauty and fertility so generally awarded to the finer portions of Dutchess county. In the immediate vicinity are some of the highly finished and well-kept country seats which adorn this portion of the Hudson, and make up the attractions which taste and refinement always add to country life.



The object aimed at in the design of this house, was that of a substantial and commodious mansion, suited to the requirements of a large family, and that should express its purpose in the simplest manner at a moderate expense. It was therefore desirable to avoid all costly irregularity of form, and all the fanciful varieties of gimcracks.

The style selected as best illustrating this purpose is the Chateau roof, Louis XV style; the main building being 43 feet square, with a rear addition 25 by 29 feet; the plan illustrating the arrangement of rooms, verandah, etc. The first floor gives double parlors, (one of which may be used as a bed-room or library,) a sitting-room or reception-room, dining-room, and a large kitchen, with necessary closets, an inclosed verandah, water closets, etc. The second floor, main building, gives four large bed rooms and two smaller rooms for other purposes, and in the rear are four servants' rooms and a bath-room. The attic story, main building, has now five rooms, finished with closets, and two rooms more can be added by putting up two partitions. These upper rooms, in a roof of this character, are cool, well ventilated, well lighted, and agreeable in warm weather, there being roomy air chambers between the attic ceiling and the upper roof, and also between the walls of the rooms and the outer wall of the house. There is but little difference in the value of these rooms and those on the floor below, except convenience of access.

The house is built of brick, in a first class manner, the lower roof slate, the upper one being tin; is thoroughly finished throughout, and is in all respects a convenient, durable, and commanding structure, giving the largest amount of room in a desirable and attractive form, with the most economy of means. It is situated on a knoll overlooking all the surrounding grounds, which include a number of other fine sites, one or two of which, we think, even more desirable than the one selected. It is not, however, an easy matter to choose one from a dozen sites, each almost equally good.



A new road is now being laid through these and the adjoining premises, to connect two of the principal drives southward from Poughkeepsie, which when completed, will add a new attraction to the beautiful suburbs of this city. The views from the grounds, more particularly from the top of the house, are varied and extensive. The mountain panorama, which sweeps three-fourths of the horizon, beginning with the Fishkill mountains, and ending with the Catskills, is exceedingly fine. The eastern view embraces the Vassar Female College, the noble gift of Matthew Vassar, Esq., to the cause of female education. In the foreground and middle distance are the rich rolling landscapes of Dutchess and the fertile hillsides of Ulster counties, the glittering spires of Poughkeepsie, the lordly Hudson, and southerly are seen the famous Beacons and the Highland Pass,

"Where Hudson's wave o'er silvery sands Winds through the hills afar."



DESIGN No. 30.

MODEL SUBURBAN COTTAGE—IN THE OLD ENGLISH OR RURAL GOTHIC STYLE.

BY FREDERICK S. COPLEY, ARTIST, TOMPKINSVILLE, S. I.

The general appearance of this Cottage, as seen from the road, is shown in the engraving, (Fig. 101.) which is a perspective view of the North and East Fronts.

It is situated at Montrose, on the lake-like shores of Hempstead Harbor, near the village of Roslyn, Long Island, a spot noted for its beauty and healthfulness.



Size of building, 44 by 38 feet. Principal Plan (Fig. 103.) 10 feet high. P. shows a recessed porch, with double doors of oak, (oiled) the outer ones open, to be closed only at night and stormy weather, behind the one on the right is a space for wet umbrellas, &c., the inner doors have glazed panels to give light within, and should always be closed. V. is the vestibule, containing a spiral staircase, with walnut steps and rail (oiled). The floor laid with encaustic tiles, with ceiling groined, and walls finished in imitation of stone in the sand coat. On the left (under the stairs) is a private door opening into a lobby, fitted with wash-basin, water, &c., and lighted by a narrow window, that also serves to light the front basement stairs, so that a servant could answer a call, at either front or back doors, without passing through the central hall; which would not only be more convenient for them, but would be to the family and guests, especially in time of company, when the hall would form a central room, by closing the doors that lead to the stairs: nor would this interfere in the least with the domestics, or their duties: as they can go from cellar to attic without disturbing the privacy of a single room: and the guests could ascend, unseen to the dressing rooms above, (from either entrance) or depart in the same manner.



The hall screen, separating the vestibule, should be of real oak, (oiled) and lighted in the panels with stained glass, which would impart a soft and pleasant light to the hall, and produce a fine effect on either side, day or night. The hall is here placed in the centre of the plan, and so happily arranged are the doors and rooms, as not only to give it a symmetrical effect, but to unite the whole, en suite, without disturbing the individuality of either. Also, the hall lamp and stove would light and warm, equally, every room, besides passage, vestibule, and stairs. The cloak closet is in the passage which contains the back stairs.

P. is the Parlor, which would be the favorite living room in the summer, as it faces the north, and has a large bay-window commanding a fine view down the harbor to the sound.



L. is the Library, and living room, connected with the parlor by sliding doors, with recessed book-cases, on each side, and the same on the sides of the bay-window, here facing the south, and possessing a beautiful view of the bay and hills, with the village in the distance, which make it the favorite quarters in winter, being fully exposed to the genial influences of the sun during the absence of foliage at that season. On the right of the mantel is a private closet for plate, papers, &c., both these rooms have windows opening on the west veranda, with a fine view across the harbor. D. is the Dining room, and a most cheerful one, (as it should be,) with a large ornamental window on the east, admitting the morning sun, and a fine bay-window on the north, looking down the road and harbor, possessing a charming prospect of land and water. To harmonize with the bay (on the other end) is the sideboard recess with a dumb-waiter on the right, and a china closet on the left; on one side of the mantel is the door opening into the lobby, which communicates with the hall, and basement plan below, and fitted with wash-basin, water, &c., which would be found most convenient to wash hands or glasses, delicate or valuable articles of use not wished to be trusted to careless servants. It will be seen that the three bay-windows on this plan, are of different forms, and each fitted with inside shutters. C. is the principal chamber, or boudoir, facing south and east, with fine large windows in each. The one on the south has closets on each side, and opens into the conservatory, making this a most delightful ladies'-work-room. It will be seen that all the rooms on this floor, although not large, are of the most comfortable size, perfect and elegantly proportioned, and arranged with every conceivable convenience requisite for the enjoyment of all the comforts and luxuries of life.

Chamber Plan (Fig. 103.) is nine feet high, and in keeping with the rest, in its admirable arrangements, furnishing five excellent rooms, with a bath room, convenient to all, fitted with the latest improvements, (the water closet enclosed, and vertical pipes, which would make freezing impossible). The four principal rooms are about equal in size and attractiveness, as they possess the same fine views as the corresponding ones beneath, and each finished with fire-places and ample closet room. The small room windows open on a balcony, with a charming view of the bay; and would afford an agreeable lounge in summer evenings, to enjoy the setting sun, or cool breeze. All the rooms on these two floors (except the last) to be fitted with Dixon's patent grates, and Arnott's ventilating valves, which would secure sweet, healthy, and warm rooms, without draughts. The hall, as will be seen, is well lighted and ventilated, not only by the staircase window, on the north, but by the ventilating sash-lights over the doors of every-room; the bath room door is also lighted in the panel with ground glass. Between the doors, on the east side, is the lift, or dumb-waiter, and dust register, which being in the centre of the plan, is of equal convenience to all.



Fig. 104. Roof and attic plan. The attic contains five good rooms for the accommodation of the servants, storing fruit, trunks, &c., and drying clothes. As this plan has the same central arrangements as all the rest, consequently the same advantages in economy of space, and of direct and easy access to every room, stairs, &c. The landing here is lighted in the same way as the hall below, and by the same staircase window, with the addition of a large sky-light and ventilator in the centre, which would keep the rooms sweet and cool.

Fig. 105, shows the Basement and Cellar plan, nine feet high, and containing every requisite convenience for the domestic duties of a family. As they are on the same level, and under the principal story, the noise and smell of the kitchen would be excluded. The garden entrance is shown by the steps on the southwest corner of area, which extends the whole of the west side, round to the hall door on the south; and covered by verandah, would make these rooms dry, cool, and pleasant, as they are but little below ground, and well lighted on two sides, with a large bay-window in each; the north bay fitted with wash-tubs, as this kitchen is intended as a back one, or scullery, and for cooking in during the heat of summer, it has a sink closet on the left of the fire-place, and dresser and shelves for pots and pans on the south side, by which, is a door opening into the basement, and one out on the area. The basement would be a cheerful room, facing the south with a large bay-window with seats and inside shutters, on the opposite side is a dresser fitted with plate rack, &c. On the east is the range and pantry; behind the range, in the hall, is a warm closet for clothes, shoes, &c., and opposite, under the stairs, is a dark one, for potatoes. At the north end of the hall, (and behind the scullery, fire-place, &c.) is the furnace room and front basement stairs. On the east side of the hall is the dumb-waiter, or lift. The coal cellar has two bins placed under the shoots, for large and small coal, with two on the east side for ashes and wood. Against the middle window is a wire gauze safe, for cooked meats, &c.; between this and the wine cellar is the dairy; the other division is for stores in general. All the partitions are made open, so as to admit the free circulation of light and air.



On observing the relative position of the different doors and windows, in the several plans, it will be found that the house may be ventilated by through drafts in every direction at pleasure; a luxury to be appreciated in the heat of summer. Also, by carrying the lift, or dumb-waiter, to the top of the house, and communicating with every floor, its full value would be secured, besides forming a ventilating shaft for the whole building, from cellar to attic. Another valuable labor-saving convenience (next to the water-works and lift) is the dust shoot, which is simply a tin tube, with registers in the floors of the different plans, to sweep the dust into, from the rooms, where it descends to the cellar, and is caught in a barrel, to be removed when full. It is here placed in the hall, by the side of the lift, on every floor, which by this central arrangement is at the door of every room.

Construction, although of wood, is made nearly fire proof, by making the floors, walls, partitions and stairs solid. The walls and principal partitions are formed of slats of one inch thick by four inches broad, securely nailed one on the other, so as to form a one inch groove on both sides, to plaster on. This forms a good strong six inch solid wall, fire and vermin proof, and dryer than any built of stone or brick. The stairs to have their skeletons of iron work, filled in solid with cement. The floors of basement and entry to be of earthenware tiles, the kitchen and cellar cemented. That of the principal plan, (forming the ceiling of the basement, &c., the seat of danger,) should be formed of brick, arched on iron girders, and filled up with cement, and laid with larch, (as that burns less freely than any other wood). The hall, &c., to be laid with encaustic tiles. The floors of the chamber plans should have their timbers coated with plaster paris, and filled up with mortar and laid with larch, the plastering of the ceilings, &c., on wire gauze, instead of lath; a slate roof, and the walls of the basement plan of hollow brick, and plastered on the inner surface. By these simple and inexpensive means, the house would be nearly fire proof, and life and property secure.

The exterior is covered by a sand coat, of a cheerful and rich light brown ochre tint, it being the most befitting for the situation and design, besides possessing the advantages of economy, and imparting a more substantial effect, it avoids that harsh and disagreeable glare and glisten of paint.



DESIGN No. 31.

The design on the following page, for a Head Stone, was published by us in the May number, 1864, of the HORTICULTURIST. It attracted the attention of one of our most intelligent subscribers and valuable contributors in Western New York, who desired to set up, in their beautiful Cemetery, a memorial of one of his household who "who had gone before." The monument was executed in this city, under the supervision of the friend who furnished the design for the HORTICULTURIST. It was cut from the Caen stone, and the execution was every way satisfactory. The gentleman for whom it was made says in a letter advising of its safe arrival:—"Last week I had it set in a solid foundation, and my highest anticipations are more than realized. I do not see how the monument could be better, as to material, design, and inscriptions. It is unique, yet chaste, highly significant and satisfactory. I have only words of praise and feelings of gratitude for a result that so fully answers to my ideal."



"BALLOON FRAMES."

"If it had not been for the knowledge of balloon frames, Chicago and San Francisco would never have arisen as they did, from little villages, to great cities in a single year."—SOLON ROBINSON.

In these days of BALLOONING, it is gratifying to know that there is one practically useful, well tested principle, which has risen above the character of an experiment, and is destined to hold an elevated position in the opinions of the masses. That principle is the one which is technically, as well as sarcastically, termed Balloon Framing, as applied to the construction of all classes of wooden buildings.

The early history of the Balloon Frame, is somewhat obscure, there being no well authenticated statements of its origin. It may, however, be traced back to the early settlement of our prairie countries, where it was impossible to obtain heavy timber and skillful mechanics, and the fact is patent to any one who has passed through the pleasures and the vicissitudes of the life of a pioneer, that his own necessities have indicated the adoption of some principle in construction, that, with the materials he has at hand, shall fulfill all the necessary conditions of comfort, strength and protection. To these circumstances we must award the early conception of this frame, which, with subsequent additions and improvements, has led to its universal adoption for buildings of every class throughout the States and cities of the West, and on the Pacific coast.

The Balloon Frame has for more than twenty years been before the building public. Its success, adaptability, and practicability, have been fully demonstrated. Its simple, effective and economical manner of construction, has very materially aided the rapid settlement of the West, and placed the art of building, to a great extent, within the control of the pioneer. That necessity, which must do without the aid of the mechanic or the knowledge of his skill, has developed a principle in construction that has sufficient merit to warrant its use by all who wish to erect in a cheap and substantial manner any class of wooden buildings.

Like all successful improvements, which thrive on their own merits, the Balloon Frame has passed through and survived the theory, ridicule and abuse of all who have seen fit to attack it, and may be reckoned among the prominent inventions of the present generation, an invention neither fostered nor developed by any hope of great rewards, but which plainly and boldly acknowledges its origin in necessity.



The increasing value of lumber and labor, must turn the attention of men of moderate means to those successful plans which have demonstrated economy in both, and at the same time preserved the full qualities of strength and security so generally accorded to the old fogy principles of framing, and which, we presume to say, is inferior in all the true requisites of cheap and substantial building. Light sticks, uninjured by cutting mortices or tenons, a close basket-like manner of construction, short bearings, a continuous support for each piece of timber from foundation to rafter, and embracing and taking advantage of the practical fact, that the tensile and compressible strength of pine lumber is equal to one-fifth of that of wrought iron, constitute improvements introduced with this frame.

If, in erecting a building, we can so use our materials that every strain will come in the direction of the fibre of some portion of the wood work, we can make inch boards answer a better purpose than foot square beams, and this application of materials is one reason of the strength of Balloon Frames.



The Balloon Frame belongs to no one person; nobody claims it as an invention, and yet in the art of construction it is one of the most sensible improvements that has ever been made.

That which has hitherto called out a whole neighborhood, and required a vast expenditure of labor, time, and noise, can, by the adoption of the balloon frame, be done with all the quietness and security of an ordinary day's work. A man and boy can now attain the same results, with ease, that twenty men could on an old fashioned frame.

The name of "Basket Frame" would convey a better impression, but the name "Balloon" has long ago outlived the derision which suggested it.



The moment the foundation is prepared, and the bill of lumber on the ground, the balloon frame is ready to raise, and a man and boy can do all of it. The sills are generally 3 inches by 8 inches, halved at the ends or corners, and nailed together with large nails. Having laid the sills upon the foundation, the next thing in order is to put up the studding. Use 4 by 4 studs for corners and door posts, or spike two 2 by 4 studs together, stand them up, set them plumb, and with stay laths secure them in position. Set up the intermediate studs, which are 2 by 4 inches, and 16 inches between centres, toe or nail them diagonally to the sill. Then put in the floor joists for first floor, each joist to be placed alongside each stud, and nailed to it and to the sill. Next measure the height to ceiling, and with a chalk line mark it around the entire range of studding; below the ceiling line notch each stud one inch deep and four inches wide, and into this, flush with the inside face of the studding, nail an inch strip four inches wide. This notch may be cut before putting up the studs. If the frame be lined on the inside, it will not be necessary to notch the strip into the studs, but simply to nail it to the studding; the object of notching the studding is to present a flush surface for lathing, as well as to form a shoulder or bearing necessary to sustain the second floor; both of these are accomplished by lining inside the studding—(for small barns and outbuildings that do not require plastering, nail the strip 1 by 4 to the studding)—on this rests the joists of the second floor, the ends of which come flush to the outside face of the studding, and both ends of each joist are securely nailed to each stud; the bearing of the joist on the inch strip below is close by the stud, and the inch strip rests on a shoulder or lower side of the notch cut to receive it. This bearing is so strong that the joists will break before it would yield. Having reached the top of the building, each stud is sawed off to an equal height; if any are too short they are spliced by placing one on top of the other, and nailing a strip of inch board on both sides. The wall plate, 2 by 4 inches, is laid flat on top of the studding, and nailed to each stud; the rafters are then put on; they are notched, allowing the ends to project outside for cornice, &c. The bearing of each rafter comes directly over the top of each stud, and is nailed to it.



A Balloon Frame looks light, and its name was given in contempt by those old fogy mechanics who had been brought up to rob a stick of timber of all its strength and durability, by cutting it full of mortices, tenons and augur holes, and then supposing it to be stronger than a far lighter stick differently applied, and with all its capabilities unimpaired.

Properly constructed, and with timber adapted to its purposes, it will stand securely against the fury of the elements, and answer every purpose that an old fashioned timber frame is calculated to fulfill.

When the building is supported on posts, heavy sills are necessary, and the frame should be securely nailed or spiked together. The bents may be 16, 24 or 30 inches apart, and covered in the usual manner. The thrust of both the rafters and contents of the building are outward; the tie, 1 by 4, is abundantly strong, as each one will practically sustain, in the direction of its fibre, three tons. The floor joists are nailed to studs at each end. No one need fear any lack of perfect security, as these ties exceed in strength any hold that tenons could have.

Fig. 113 illustrates the manner of framing buildings of one story, such as are used about almost every farm or country seat, as tool houses, granaries, wash-houses, spring houses, &c., &c.



Very small buildings, if unplastered, will not require ceiling joists; a tie at each end will be all-sufficient. Moderate size buildings will be strong enough if the ceiling joists are left out, and collars put on half way up the rise of the rafter. According to the size and uses of the building, the collars or ceiling joists may be put on every rafter, every other, or every third rafter; floor joists should be about 16 inches between centres, and the studding may be from 16 inches to 8 feet apart; in the last case only, every sixth floor joist is nailed to the stud, the intermediate ones being arranged equally distant from each other between the studding. Where the studding is placed wide apart, the plate must necessarily be heavier to sustain the roof; if vertical siding be used, it should be nailed to the sill and plate, and to an intermediate horizontal strip spiked in between the studding; if done in this way, the plate may be lighter; when horizontal siding is used, the studding should not be more than 4 feet apart—in small buildings, say 12 by 20 feet, we should cut all our stuff, except joists, from 1-1/4 inch plank. Studs 4 inches wide, rafters 5 inches wide; floor joists should be 2 by 9 inches, and put all up 30 inches between centres.

In Fig. 114 is shown the manner of constructing frames for buildings of three stories. The corner stud, 4 by 4, is composed of and built up with two 2 by 4 studs, which are nailed together, breaking joints as the building progresses in height; the splicing of studs is done in the same manner, being nailed together as fast as additional length is required; the joists of the last floor are laid upon the plate, and they act as tie-beams to sustain the thrust of the rafters. We consider the splice where the studs butt and have side strips nailed to them, to be the most secure; the lapping splice is very generally used, however, and found to answer every purpose.

Ribs for vertical siding may be put on in two ways; one as shown, by which the ribs run over the sill, and are nailed to it; a strip of the same thickness as ribs, say 1-1/4 inches, nailed on to the sill to fill up the space between the ribs, and is then covered by the outside plinth or base. The other plan is to set the studs back 1-1/4 inches from face edge of sill; then let the end of ribs bevel down on the sill, or dovetail them into the edge.



Either outside or inside lining may be used, or both together. Where diagonal lining is used, it should be reversed or run the other way on the opposite side of the house.



The lining of a Balloon Frame adds immensely to its strength, particularly so if put on diagonally; it may be done outside or inside, though on the whole the inside is preferable. If done outside, it should be carried over the sill and nailed to it; the sill being wider than the studding, in order to get a larger bearing on the masonry, and the floor joists being in the way, does not admit of inside lining being put on in the same manner.

A first-class Balloon Frame should be lined, if for vertical siding, outside the studding—if horizontal siding is used, line inside; it makes the frame stiffer and the building warmer. Some line diagonally, say from centre next the first floor towards extreme upper corners both ways; others line one side diagonally in one direction, and the other in an opposite direction. This makes assurance of strength doubly sure. If lined inside, nail perpendicular lath to the lining 16 inches from centres, and on this lath horizontally for plastering.



The principle of Balloon Framing is the true one for strength, as well as for economy. If a mechanic is employed, the Balloon Frame can be put up for forty per cent. less money than the mortice and tenon frame. If you erect a balloon frame yourself, which you can easily do without the aid of a mechanic, it costs the price of the materials and whatever value you put upon your own time.

Fig. 23 shows the manner of attaching the flooring to gable end studding, and in those buildings in which the thrust of the rafters is in the direction of the flooring—if every third stud be bolted to the joist in the manner shown, it makes the tie equal if not superior to that in the direction of the joists.



Fig. 122 explains the manner of framing the largest class of barns. Wide openings, like bays, require the use of heavy timber, and the mortice, tenon and brace, only so far as the gallows frame is concerned; the balance of the frame is of light stuff, studding 2 feet to 2-1/2 feet apart, 2 by 6 inches, every third one 2 by 8 inches, into which is gained the side girt, it being nailed to the others. On this rests one end of the temporary floors, the gallows frame supports the roof, and the rafters are secured to it, so that they become ties. The side of this building is like a floor turned on edge, and is firmly secured by the floor joists at the bottom and the rafters at the top.

Warehouses, depots, and other buildings of a very large size, can be made stronger by using the Balloon Frame, instead of the heavy timber frame. Those who prefer to err on the right side, can get unnecessary strength by using deeper studding, placing them closer together, putting in one or more rows of bridging and as many diagonal ribs as they like. In large buildings there is no saving in timber, only the substitution of small sizes for large—the great saving is in the labor, which is quite important.

The following are some of the advantages claimed for the Balloon Frame:

1. The principal labor of framing is dispensed with.

2. It is a far cheaper frame to raise.

3. It is stronger and more durable than any other frame.

4. Any stick can be removed, and another put in its place, without disturbing the strength of those remaining—in fact, the whole building can be renewed stick by stick.

5. It is adapted to every style of building, and better adapted for all irregular forms.

6. It is forty per cent. cheaper than any other known style of frame.

7. It embraces strength, security, comfort and economy, and can be put up without the aid of a mechanic.



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A new, practical, and original Work on the design and construction of all classes of Horticultural Buildings, including Hot-beds, Propagating Houses, Hot and Cold Graperies, Orchard Houses, Conservatories, &c., with the best modes of heating, &c. Elegantly Illustrated. Being the result of an extensive professional practice.

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* * * * *

Transcriber's Notes:

Obvious punctuation errors repaired.

This text uses both hyphenated and spaced forms of its rooms, i.e. bed-room and bed room. Also used were variations on hyphenated and not words such stair-way and stairway.

Page 16 "ofwhich" changed to "of which" (of which the public)

Page 28, "accomodation" changed to "accommodation" (of this accommodation)

Page 34, "accomodation" changed to "accommodation" (amount of accommodation)

Page 83, "understand" changed to "understands" (one that understands)

Page 104, "accomodation" changed to "accommodation" (for their accommodation)

Page 124, "posesses" changed to "possesses" (possesses all the attractions)

Page 148, "desends" changed to "descends" (where it descends)

Page 164, "23" changed to "121" (Fig. 121 shows the manner)

THE END