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The little village of Elstow, near Bedford, will always be remembered as the birthplace of John Bunyan, and the cottage is still shown where the "immortal dreamer" was born. It was while in Bedford jail for "conscience' sake" that Bunyan ministered to all posterity by writing the Pilgrim's Progress from this World to the World to Come, under the similitude of a dream. As an allegory of the soul's conflicts and struggles with evil in its journey through life, it is unsurpassed. It is believed that no other book except the Bible has gone through so many editions or attained such a popularity in all languages. It has been generally understood that Bunyan's early life was a very profligate one, but some have thought that his terrible self-accusations in after years may have arisen from the height of his religious fervour and Puritan strictness, which made him look on dancing and bell-ringing as deadly sins. This idea is satisfactorily given by Macaulay.
Bunyan was of poor parentage, his father being a tinker. At one time he was in the Parliamentary Army, and in 1645, was present at the siege of Leicester. Having left the army, he married. Then after a time of great spiritual agony and doubt, with quieter intervals, he became a member and then minister of the Baptist congregation at Bedford. His labours were stopped by the Act of Conventicles, and Bunyan was a prisoner in Bedford jail for twelve years. While in prison Bunyan assisted in providing for the wants of his wife and family by making tagged laces. The only books he had during his confinement were the Bible and Foxe's Book of Martyrs. Through the kind interposition of Bishop Barlow of Lincoln, Bunyan was released, and resumed his work of a preacher until his death from fever in London in 1688. Bunyan also wrote the Holy War and Grace Abounding, an autobiographical narrative.
LEWES, SUSSEX
How to get there.—Train from London Bridge or Victoria. London, Brighton, and South-Coast Railway. Nearest Station.—Lewes. Distance from London.—50 miles. Average Time.—Varies between 1-1/4 to 2-1/4 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd Fares.—Single 8s. 6d. 5s. 0d. 4s. 2d. Return 15s. 0d. 9s. 0d. 8s. 4d.
Accommodation Obtainable.—"The White Hart Hotel," "Crown," "Commercial," "Temperance Hotel," etc.
Lewes, a prosperous agricultural centre, situated on the Sussex Ouse, is a place of great antiquity, in spite of its present modern appearance. Its early history is vague, but it is known that it was of importance even under the Saxon kings, and was fortified in Alfred's time. William the Conqueror gave Lewes to Earl William de Warenne, who had married Gundrada, said to be the daughter of Queen Matilda and the Conqueror. De Warenne built the castle, or considerably enlarged the old Saxon fortress, which is now in ruins. The castle possessed a curious feature, of which no other examples now remain, in having two keeps, each built upon a mound. Only one of these keeps (admission 6d.) still exists, its towers covered with ivy. From its summit a splendid view of the surrounding country can be obtained towards the chalk bluffs of the South Downs and the valley of the Ouse. The great gateway of the castle still stands, and in Southover, the suburb of Lewes, are the remains of the once large and wealthy Priory of St. Pancras. This was the first Cluniac establishment in England. It was founded by De Warenne and Gundrada, and continued to be of great importance up to the dissolution. Until about sixty years ago the old pigeon-house of the priory, containing 3228 pigeon-holes, was still standing. When excavations were going on during the construction of the railway, which passes through the priory grounds, the workmen came upon two leaden coffins, which were discovered to be those of William de Warenne and his wife. These were removed to Southover Church, and Gundrada's grave has now its original tombstone of black marble, which was found in Isfield Church. On the site of the race-course was fought in 1264 the battle of Lewes, between Henry III. and the insurgent barons, led by Simon de Montfort, Earl of Leicester. There are a few old houses left, and the modern town hall contains a beautiful oak staircase and panelling taken from the old Star Inn.
BODIAM CASTLE, SUSSEX
How to get there.—Train from Charing Cross, Cannon Street, or London Bridge. South-Eastern and Chatham Railway. Nearest Station.—Robertsbridge (4 miles from Bodiam). From Robertsbridge take train to Bodiam Station (which is close to the castle) on Rother Valley Light Railway. Distance from London.—51 miles. Average Time.—Varies between 1-1/2 to 3 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd Fares.—Single 8s. 4d. 5s. 3d. 4s. 2-1/2d. Return 14s. 8d. 10s. 6d. 8s. 5d.
Accommodation Obtainable.—"Castle Hotel." Alternative Route.—None.
Bodiam Castle is open to the public every day of the week except Sundays (tickets, obtainable at the keeper's cottage, 6d. each; Thursdays, 1s. each).
There is practically no other moated castle in England which compares with Bodiam in its completeness. It was built about the year 1386, but its usefulness for defensive purposes, in view of the increasing destructiveness of weapons at that time, has been doubted. However, the knight who was responsible for its construction was Sir Edward Dalyngrudge, who fought at both Crecy and Poictiers, and must therefore have seen the primitive forerunner of the modern field-gun in use. The walls of the castle now enclose a grassy quadrangle, to which access is gained through a fine gateway, which still retains its outer iron portcullis. The three others, through which an attacking force was obliged to penetrate, have all disappeared. Although it has been stated that the parliamentary forces under Waller captured Bodiam Castle during the Civil War, it seems to be unlikely that such an attack was ever made; for in March 1645 the property was conveyed by the Earl of Thanet to one Nathaniel Powell of London, who was strongly in favour of the Commonwealth.
Lord Ashcombe, the present owner, has restored the walls very carefully, and the chapel and various private apartments with their fireplaces remain intact.
The castle buildings as a whole are a rectangular block entirely surrounded by the wide moat shown in the illustration. One crosses to the main gateway by a narrow raised pathway. The surface of the water during the summer is generally bright with water-lilies.
Bodiam Church is an Early English structure, now very much restored. It is on the hill, a few minutes' walk from the castle.
COLCHESTER, ESSEX
How to get there.—Train from Liverpool Street. Great Eastern Railway. Nearest Station.—Colchester. Distance from London.—51-3/4 miles. Average Time.—Varies from 1 hr. 4 m. to 2 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd Fares.—Single 9s. 9d. ... 4s. 4-1/2d. Return 14s. 8d. ... 8s. 9d.
Accommodation Obtainable.—"The George," "Red Lion," "The Cups," etc.
Modern Colchester is the direct descendant of the ancient British town of Camulodunum, referred to by Tacitus and other Roman historians. Various kings of the Trinobantes seem to have caused much trouble during the early period of the Roman occupation. Cunobelinus, one of their kings, reigned from about 5 B.C. to A.D. 42 or 43, and numerous coins bearing the abbreviated form of his name, CVNO, have been discovered. After his death the Emperor Claudius came over to England, subdued the Trinobantes, and established a Roman colony at Camulodunum. The new colony, under the name of Colonia Victriensis, was, however, attacked by a huge horde of the British under Boadicea in A.D. 61. They slaughtered all the inhabitants and destroyed the temple of Claudius.
The Romans, however, soon turned the tables again on the Britons, and at once surrounded the town with a very strong wall. From this time onwards for several centuries the place was one of the strongest Roman stations in the country. It is not surprising, therefore, that the remains of the Roman occupation at Colchester are the most perfect of the kind in the country. The coins range from Asupa, 6 B.C., to Valentinian, who died A.D. 455, while very great quantities of Roman glass, pottery, and tiles, all sorts of domestic vessels and personal ornaments have been discovered. Some idea of the richness of these finds can be obtained from the collection in the museum in the old Norman castle.
The story of King Coel in connection with Colchester is not altogether accepted by historians, yet there are so many references to it in Anglo-Saxon writings that it cannot be quite ignored.
Colchester suffered terribly in the Civil War, and sustained a fearful siege lasting seventy-six days, the townsfolk and Royalist forces being eventually forced to surrender to Fairfax. The Saxon doorway of Trinity Church, and St. Botolph's Priory, are exceedingly interesting.
LAYER MARNEY
How to get there.—Train from Liverpool Street. Great Eastern Rly. Nearest Station.—Colchester (7 miles from Layer Marney). Distance from London.—51-3/4 miles. Average Time.—Varies between 1 and 2-1/4 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd Fares.—Single 9s. 9d. ... 4s. 4-1/2d. Return 14s. 8d. ... 8s. 9d.
Accommodation Obtainable.—"The Red Lion Hotel," "George Hotel," "The Cups Hotel," etc., all at Colchester.
The unfinished home of the Marneys rises in lonely grandeur in an out-of-the-way part of Essex. To the north runs the road to Colchester; southwards the ground slopes away in the direction of the Blackwater. The great gateway has stood in these peaceful surroundings quite untouched for 400 years. A small portion of the mansion is by the side of the gateway, and the church with the Marney monuments is further to the left.
Lord Marney fought for Henry VII. in France, and was one of the court counsellors at the time of his son's accession. He became a great favourite with Henry VIII., and was created a baron, besides being made a Knight of the Garter and Captain of the Bodyguard. He came of an old Norman stock, but had not overmuch land. At Layer Marney, his chief estate, he determined to build a fitting abode for himself. It was one of the earliest buildings since Roman times to be built of brick. The terra-cotta mouldings are a peculiar feature. It is thought that Lord Marney brought over Italian workmen to make the terra-cotta, for there is a classic touch about the ornaments. The gateway has two towers, one ivy-clad. The whole structure is strikingly original in style. It was commenced in 1500, but Lord Marney died before the work was done. John, his son, died the next year, and with him the line of Marneys became extinct.
In the church are three monuments of the Marneys. The tomb of Henry, Lord Marney, is in the arch leading to the Marney Chapel, which was founded by him. The figure is of dark marble, clad in armour, and wearing the robes of a Knight of the Garter. An ancestor of Lord Marney, who died in 1414, lies near. The effigy is clothed in mail. The figure of John, the last of the Marneys, is of black marble. There are some curious frescoes in the church, and an oak screen. The interior of the building is probably older than the exterior, which is of about the same date as the towers.
The church keys may be procured at the rectory.
BATTLE ABBEY
How to get there.—Train from Charing Cross or Cannon Street. South-Eastern and Chatham Railway. Nearest Station.—Battle. Distance from London.—55-1/4 miles. Average Time.—Varies between 2-1/2 hours and 1-1/2 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd Fares.—Single 9s. 4d. 5s. 10d. 4s. 8-1/2d. Return 16s. 4d. 11s. 8d. 9s. 5d.
Accommodation Obtainable.—"George" and "Star" Hotels. Alternative Route.—None.
Battle Abbey is open to the public on Tuesdays only, between 12 and 4. There is no charge for admission, tickets being obtained from the stationer's shop bearing the name Ticehurst. It is situated close to the main entrance to the abbey. The great gateway through which one enters is illustrated here. It was probably built by Abbot Retlynge in the first half of the fourteenth century. The original abbey was built in fulfilment of a vow which William the Norman made just before the battle of Senlac Hill, the building being arranged so that the high altar was placed on the exact spot where the body of Harold II. was discovered on the awful field of slaughter. The sixty monks who started the monastery were brought over by William from the Benedictine monastery of Marmontier in Normandy. They were granted many extraordinary privileges, including the right of treasure-trove. A further privilege was given to the abbots in the form of authority to pardon any sentenced criminal whom they might chance to meet on the road. The abbey was not completed until after the death of William the Conqueror.
On the left, as one goes through the great gateway, are the portions of the abbey which have been converted into the house which was, until her death, the home of the Duchess of Cleveland. At right angles to these buildings runs a terrace, from which one looks towards the sea across the battlefield on which was decided one of the most momentous issues which have affected the English nation.
One must have read Lord Lytton's Harold to fully realise the tremendous pathos of the struggle to the death between the English and the Normans. The green facing the great gateway has half hidden on its surface an old bull ring. In wet weather this is scarcely discoverable, the ring being easily hidden in the small puddles of water which accumulate.
CAMBRIDGE
How to get there.—Train from St. Pancras or Liverpool Street. Great Eastern Railway. Nearest Station.—Cambridge. Distance from London.—55-3/4 miles. Average Time.—Varies between 1-1/4 and 2-1/2 hours. Quickest train, 1 h. 13 m.
1st 2nd 3rd Fares.—Single 8s. 9d. ... 4s. 7-1/2d. Return 15s. 10d. ... 9s. 3d.
Accommodation Obtainable.—"Bull Hotel," "Lion Hotel," "University Arms Hotel," "Hoop Hotel," "Bath Hotel," etc. Alternative Routes.—From Euston by L. and N.W. Railway. From King's Cross, Great Northern Railway. From St. Pancras, Midland Railway.
Cambridge shares with its sister university, Oxford, the honour of being one of the two most ancient seats of learning in Great Britain. The town itself is of very remote origin, and stands on the site of the Roman station Camboricum, on the Via Devana. By the Saxons, Cambridge appears to have been known as Grantabrycge, which was probably later abbreviated into Cantbrigge. The true history of the town as a university began at the opening of the twelfth century, when Joffred, Abbot of Crowland, sent over to Cottenham, near Cambridge, four monks, who, in a hired barn, started their teachings, which soon became excessively popular. The first regular society of students was founded in 1257.
Cambridge abounds in features of interest and contains a large number of old churches, perhaps the most interesting being that of St. Sepulchre, one of the four circular churches remaining in England. This church, which is in Bridge Street, was erected in the reign of Henry I., and founded, like the one at Northampton, by the Knights Templars in imitation of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem.
The colleges are, of course, the glory of Cambridge, and one is almost bewildered by the beauty and variety of their architecture. King's College Chapel is one of the most magnificent examples in the town, but nearly all the more important collegiate buildings are beautiful types of mediaeval work. The visitor should on no account omit to walk through the "Backs," which is the 'varsity term for the backs of the colleges, with the "Fellows' Gardens" reaching down to the quiet Cam. The Great Court, Trinity College, is one of the most imposing of the numerous quadrangles, and is the largest of any at either Oxford or Cambridge. The Master's Lodge here is the residence of the sovereign on all royal visits.
ARUNDEL CASTLE
How to get there.—Trains from Victoria and London Bridge. By London, Brighton, and South Coast Railway. Nearest Station.—Arundel. Distance from London.—58-1/4 miles. Average Time.—2 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd Fares.—Single 9s. 2d. 6s. 0d. 4s. 8d. Return 14s. 10d. 10s. 7d. 9s. 4d.
Accommodation Obtainable.—"Norfolk Hotel," "Eagle Inn," "Bridge Hotel," "Granville Boarding House," etc.
The interior of the castle is not shown to visitors without special permission from the Duke of Norfolk, the keep alone being thrown open to all on Mondays and Fridays between 12 and 4 P.M.—tickets being obtained at the Norfolk Hotel. The park, however, is open to the public.
The town of Arundel is one of the oldest and most beautifully situated in Sussex, that county of ancient towns, and its castle, a wonderful feudal fortress, was originally bequeathed by Alfred the Great to his nephew Adhelm. After the Conquest, it came into the possession of Roger de Montgomery, who rebuilt it, and in 1097 it was held for a short time by William II. It was at Arundel Castle that Adeliza, the widow of Henry I., entertained Queen Maud in 1139. The castle came afterwards to the Fitzalans, and from them by marriage to the Howard family, who still hold it. It was the object of several fierce attacks during the Parliamentary War, for having been captured by Waller and garrisoned for the Parliament, it was retaken by the Royalists under Lord Hopton, and soon after taken once more by Waller. The castle was much damaged by all these assaults, and was almost in ruins at the commencement of the last century, when it was taken in hand and restored by the then Duke of Norfolk. Of the ancient buildings, the keep, the entrance gateway, and parts of the walls, are all that now remain. The keep or Bevis Tower is an old Norman structure with walls 8 to 10 feet thick, having in the centre the castle dungeon, reached by a narrow staircase in the wall. The restoration was made as much as possible in conformity with the style of the old fortress, and the interior is a good example of modern Gothic art, the new chapel being an interesting example of this. The Baron's Hall, with its open chestnut roof and stained-glass windows, is perhaps one of the most striking features in the castle.
A fine stone bridge of three arches connects the two portions of the town. It spans the river Arun, which is navigable up to Arundel for vessels of 150 tons burden.
OLNEY, BUCKS
THE HOME OF COWPER
How to get there.—Train from St. Pancras. Change trains at Bedford. Midland Railway. Nearest Station.—Olney. Distance from London.—60-1/2 miles. Average Time.—1-1/2 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd Fares.—Single 8s. 1d. ... 4s. 9-1/2d. Return 16s. 2d. ... 9s. 7d.
Accommodation Obtainable.—"Bull Hotel," etc.
Olney was for a period the home of the delicate and sensitive poet William Cowper, who was born at the parsonage of Great Berkhampstead. His father was chaplain to George II. Cowper lost his mother at a very early age, and the sad event made a deep impression on his mind. In after years he wrote a poem addressed to his mother's portrait which it is said has drawn more tears than any other poem in the English language. Cowper was sent to school at six years of age, but was very unhappy there, and it laid the foundation of that settled gloom which oppressed him all through life. When Cowper had finished his studies at the Westminster School he commenced the study of law, and was afterwards called to the bar; but he never practised, for he hated law. Cowper was offered several appointments, but failed in examinations for them from extreme nervousness. By the kindness of friends an income was secured for him and he went to reside at Huntingdon. Here he formed an acquaintance with Mrs. Unwin, the "Mary" of his poems, which ripened into deepest friendship. He enjoyed much tranquil happiness during the time of his residence with the Unwin family.
When Cowper and his friends moved to Olney they lived in the old-fashioned regular fronted house illustrated opposite. Here Cowper is said to have amused himself with his hares and in the making of boxes and tables. He was also interested in the bees in the old-fashioned garden at the back of the house, where one may still see the little rustic summer-house in which John Gilpin and some of the Task were written. The house now contains a Cowper museum, and visitors thus have an opportunity of seeing the parlour and other rooms, besides many other interesting objects connected with the poet. His great friend at Olney was the Rev. John Newton. They were constantly together in their walks, in their homes, and at church, and both wrote a number of hymns.
WANTAGE AND THE COUNTRY OF ALFRED THE GREAT
How to get there.—Train from Paddington. Great Western Rly. Nearest Station.—Wantage Road. Distance from London.—60-1/2 miles. Average Time.—Varies between 1-1/2 to 2-3/4 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd Fares.—Single 10s. 0d. 6s. 4d. 5s. 0-1/2d. Return 17s. 8d. 11s. 0d. 10s. 1d.
Accommodation Obtainable.—Good posting and hotels. "Bear Hotel" and "Blue Boar."
The chalk ridge in the north of Berkshire is rich in memories of Alfred. First in importance is Wantage, a peaceful town at the foot of the hills, and famous as the birthplace of the great king. There is a statue by Count Gleichen in the wide market-place representing Alfred with a battle-axe and a charter in his hands. The church is a fine example of Early English architecture, and interesting besides as the burying-place of many famous Fitz-warens, among them Ivo, whose daughter married Richard Whittington, Lord Mayor of London. Dr. Butler of The Analogy was born in the town, and the house is still to be seen.
Leaving Wantage, one may go along the breezy downs to Uffington Castle, a large fort, presumably of British origin. It was one of many similar forts along the Roman way called Ichenilde Street, that stretches straight as an arrow along the whole ridge. Near the fort is the famous White Horse cut in the chalk, which, since its recent cleansing, gleams brilliantly from the hillside. It was cut out to commemorate the magnificent victory of Ethelred the Unready and Alfred over the Danes at Ashdown in 871. Readers of Tom Brown's School Days will recall the story of the Berkshire revels in 1857, when the scouring of the Horse took place. Judge Hughes was born here, under the shadow of the downs, and near by is the round hill where tradition says St. George slew the dragon.
In Kenilworth Sir Walter Scott has immortalised Wayland Smith's Cave, a neolithic burial-place of some ancient chieftain which lies to the west of Uffington Castle. It is a circle of stone slabs with flat stones on the top. Wayland was the "Vulcan" of the men of the north, and Alfred, in one of his translations, altered the "Fabricius" of the Roman account into the northern "Wayland," the fairy smith who replaced lost shoes on horses. It was in this cave that Scott made Flibbertigibbet play tricks on Tressilian.
CANTERBURY AND ITS CATHEDRAL
How to get there.—Train from Victoria, Holborn Viaduct, Charing Cross, or Cannon Street. South-Eastern and Chatham Railway. Nearest Station.—Canterbury (East). Distance from London.—61-3/4 miles. Average Time.—Varies between 1-3/4 to 2-3/4 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd Fares.—Single 10s. 4d. 6s. 6d. 5s. 2d. Return 18s. 0d. 13s. 0d. 10s. 4d.
Accommodation Obtainable.—"County Hotel," "The Fleece Family and Commercial Hotel," Baker's "Temperance Hotel," "The Royal Fountain Hotel," "Falstaff Hotel," etc.
The city of Canterbury, originally an important station in Watling Street, the Durovernum of the Romans, was one of the earliest places occupied by the Saxons, by whom it was named Cantwarabyrig, or "town of the Kentish men," and made the capital of the Saxon kingdom of Kent, and a royal residence. About 597 the abbey was founded by St. Augustine and his royal convert King Ethelbert. Canterbury was then constituted the seat of the primacy in England, a dignity it retains to this day.
At the period of the Norman Conquest the city was of considerable size, and the castle, of which very little now remains, is reputed to be the work of William the Conqueror. The cathedral was burnt down at least twice before the present building was erected, but under the influence of the Norman archbishops, Lanfranc and Anselm, the erection of the new "Church of Christ" proceeded apace. But it was not until the end of the twelfth century that the murder of Becket set the whole of Europe ringing with excitement, and Canterbury rose at once into the front rank as an ecclesiastical city and pilgrims' shrine.
At the time when Chaucer wrote his Canterbury Tales the city was surrounded by a strong wall with twenty-one towers and six gates. Of the wall there are some remains in Broad Street; of the gates "West Gate," through which the pilgrims entered from London, is the only survivor.
Canterbury teems with interesting relics of the past, and weeks may be spent in its old-world streets, where one is continually coming across unexpected little bits of half-timber work, weather-beaten gables, and grotesque oak carving. The cathedral, whose "Bell Harry" or central tower seems to dominate the whole city, should be approached through Mercery Lane, at the corner of which are some slight remains of Chaucer's hostelry, "The Chequers of Hope." At the bottom of the lane the cathedral close is entered by the famous Christ Church Gateway, erected by Prior Goldstone in 1517. Once inside the close gate the visitor gets some idea of the amazing beauty of the structure, which is certainly unsurpassed by any other cathedral in the kingdom. The building exhibits almost every style of architecture, from the Norman work of William of Lens to the late Perpendicular of Prior Goldstone, and yet the work of composition and design has been so exquisitely carried out that there is no hint of any want of harmony in the magnificent whole. The interior is no less remarkable, the arches and vaulting of the nave being some of the most beautiful in existence. Becket's shrine was despoiled at the Reformation, but the number of pilgrims who visited it may be imagined from the fact that the broad stone steps are worn hollow, and this only by the knees of his worshippers. The Angel doorway in the cloisters, by which the archbishop entered the sacred building pursued by his murderers, gives access on to the north-west or martyrdom transept. Here is shown the spot where the primate made his last stand and fell under the blows of the Norman knights. Another object of special interest is the tomb of Edward, the Black Prince, who died in the city in 1376. There is so much to see in and about the cathedral and its precincts, however, that a trustworthy guide-book is a sine qua non. The building is open from 9.30 to the end of evening service—the nave and two west transepts free; the choir and crypt, 6d. each person. Sketching orders, 2s. 6d. per day, and photographing orders, 5s. per day.
In the city itself the most interesting of the old churches is St. Martin's, reputed to be the oldest in England (admission, 6d.). Here St. Augustine first preached Christianity before the cathedral was built. St. Martin's Hill, near the church, should be noticed. It was over this ascent that Augustine with his Roman monks passed into Canterbury in 697.
In Monastery Street is the fine gateway of the once rich and powerful St. Augustine's Abbey; and near it, not many years ago, was a fine example of Saxon work, known as Ethelbert's Tower, which some of the intelligent busybodies of the time had removed with a battering-ram.
In Broad Street is the Hospital of St. John, with its quaint entrance and fine old timbered gateway.
The Grammar School, known as the King's School, was founded at the close of the seventh century. The most remarkable portion of what remains of the old buildings is an almost unique Norman staircase.
RECULVERS
How to get there.—Train from Victoria, Holborn Viaduct, or St. Paul's. South-Eastern and Chatham Railway. Nearest Station.—Herne Bay. (Reculvers lies 3 miles along the coast.) Distance from London.—62-3/4 miles. Average Time.—Varies between 1-3/4 to 3 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd Fares.—Single 10s. 6d. 6s. 6d. 5s. 2-1/2d. Return 18s. 5d. 13s. 0d. 10s. 5d.
Accommodation Obtainable.—At Herne Bay—"The Dolphin Hotel," "The Connaught," "The Grand," "St. George's Cliff," "Pier Hotel," "Herne Bay Hotel," etc.; also the "Bungalow Hotel," etc., at Birchington.
About 3 miles to the east of Herne Bay, the twin towers of an old Roman church stand prominently out from the flat marsh-land which stretches between the villages of Herne and Birchington, some 5 miles from the well-known health resort of Margate. Regulbium, now known as Reculver, and Rutupium, or Richborough, near Sandwich, were two Roman stations guarding the entrances to the estuary which formerly separated the Isle of Thanet from the mainland. Regulbium was also used as a lighthouse and watch-tower, because of its commanding position near the mouths of both the Thames and Medway.
After the Roman occupation, Regulbium became one of the chief seats of the Saxon kings, and when, after his conversion to Christianity by St. Augustine, King Ethelbert gave up his palace at Canterbury, he lived there with his court, and his remains were interred in the first church erected on the spot. In the ninth century a Benedictine abbey was founded at Regulbium by a priest named Bapa. A few years after, King Edred granted the abbey to the Monastery of Christchurch at Canterbury, but the society was either removed or dissolved before the Norman Conquest. This practically ends the history of Regulbium, for owing to the steady encroachments of the sea, and to the fact that the estuary continued to fill up, the once populous Roman city was gradually deserted. The present remains consist of parts of the earth-works of the Roman station, and the twin towers and ruined walls of the church. Though the church formerly occupied the centre of the Roman city, the sea has now reached the base of the bank on which the towers stand. In his famous "Brothers of Birchington," Thomas Ingoldsby says of the twin towers—
They were tall and upright And just equal in height.
Reculvers and the neighbourhood were at one time a favourite resort for smugglers.
OXFORD
How to get there.—Train from Paddington. Great Western Railway. Nearest Station.—Oxford. Distance from London.—63-1/2 miles. Average Time.—Varies between 1-1/4 to 2-3/4 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd Fares.—Single 10s. 6d. 6s. 8d. 5s. 3-1/2d. Return 18s. 6d. 11s. 8d. 10s. 7d.
Accommodation Obtainable.—"Randolph Hotel," "Mitre Hotel," "The Roebuck Hotel," "Railway Hotel," etc. Alternative Route.—Train from Euston. L. and N.W. Railway.
Oxford was a centre of learning in the time of Alfred. Walter de Merton founded the first college there, and others started the collegiate system of corporate colleges which makes English universities unique. The most celebrated colleges are Christ Church, Magdalen, New College, and Merton. Keble, Mansfield, and Hertford were established in Victorian times. In one part of the High Street the scene is architecturally magnificent. On the south side is University College, which claims the oldest foundation, although the present building only dates from the seventeenth century. Opposite is Queen's College, then comes All Souls'. On the same side is St. Mary's Church, and a little further All Souls' Church. A turning by St. Mary's Church leads to the Bodleian Library, the Sheldonian Theatre, and the Ashmolean Museum. At one end of St. Giles' Street is the Martyrs' Memorial and the Taylor Institution. Returning to High Street, and going towards the stations, a turning on the left leads to Oriel, Corpus Christi, and Merton Colleges, and still further on, St. Aldate's Street, on the left, leads to Pembroke College and the fourteenth-century church of St. Aldate's. Opposite the church are the buildings known as Christ Church, which has the Cathedral Church of St. Frideswide for its chapel. In the principal entrance is "Great Tom," the famous bell that tolls at 9.5 P.M. Christ Church, though the smallest cathedral in England, and possibly in Europe, is of great interest on account of its very distinct transitional style. Magdalen College, near the bridge over the River Cherwell, and the Botanic Gardens, are at the other end of the High Street.
There was a monastery in Oxford in the eighth century. A castle was built by William I. after he captured the town, and from that time it was often visited by English kings. Several parliaments have been held there, and the courts of law as well as the parliament removed to Oxford during the plague of 1665. Charles I. made it his headquarters until Fairfax took the town.
MIDHURST
AND THE HOME OF RICHARD COBDEN
How to get there.—Train from Waterloo. L. and S.W. Railway. Nearest Station.—Midhurst. Distance from London.—64-1/2 miles. Average Time.—Varies between 2 to 3-1/4 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd Fares.—Single 10s. 2d. 6s. 6d. 5s. 0-1/2d. Return 17s. 10d. 11s. 3d. 10s. 0d.
Accommodation Obtainable.—"The Angel," "Spread Eagle," "New Inn," etc. Alternative Route.—Train from Victoria and London Bridge. London, Brighton, and South Coast Railway.
Though only a small town, Midhurst is a place of some antiquity, and was of some size prior to the Conquest. It is situated in Mid-Sussex on the Rother, and on a site close by it, now marked only by a mound, was the castle of the Bohuns, a powerful Norman family, who were lords of the manor here. In 1547, King Edward VI. was entertained with great splendour here. It is curious to note that the custom of ringing the curfew bell is still maintained at Midhurst.
The town is picturesque, and contains many old houses and buildings of interest, notably those in West Street and Wool Lane, near the church, and the Grammar School at the further end of the town, where Sir Charles Lyell and Richard Cobden were educated. Cobden was born at Durnford, close to Midhurst. Durnford House, built for him by the nation, is still standing, and at Cocking Causeway is a monument to his memory.
In Cowdray Park, within easy walking distance, are the ruins of the magnificent Tudor mansion, Cowdray House, destroyed by fire in 1793. There was an old tradition, "The Curse of Cowdray," that the building should perish by fire and water, and this was curiously fulfilled, for the house was burnt and the last Lord Montague drowned almost on the same day.
A custodian who shows visitors over Cowdray House has a cottage here. Over what remains of the entrance gateway are the arms of Sir Anthony Browne, the favourite of King Henry VIII.; and on the porch are the initials of the Earl of Southampton.
West Lavington Church, beautifully situated on a height two miles south of Midhurst, has in its churchyard the grave of Richard Cobden, the political reformer, and originator of Free Trade. Cardinal Manning was rector here at one period.
PEVENSEY CASTLE
LANDING-PLACE OF WILLIAM THE CONQUEROR
How to get there.—Train from London Bridge or Victoria. London, Brighton, and South Coast Railway. Nearest Station.—Pevensey and West Ham. Distance from London.—65 miles. Average Time.—Varies between 2 and 3 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd Fares.—Single 10s. 0d. 6s. 2d. 4s. 8d. Return 17s. 6d. 11s. 8d. 9s. 4d.
Accommodation Obtainable.—"Royal Oak Inn" at Pevensey village.
Pevensey, the scene of so many notable events in English history, was probably a fishing-port in prehistoric times. It is situated on flat and low-lying marsh-land, about 15 miles westward along the coast from Hastings. Here the Romans built a town and fortress. Entering Pevensey Castle by the main gateway, you stand on the site of the Roman city of Anderida, of which many evidences remain in the shape of Roman cement and tiles in a wall which surrounds the enclosure. The Romans retired from Anderida in the fifth century, when it was destroyed by the Saxons under Ella, and the inhabitants slain for their obstinate resistance.
A fortnight before the great battle on Senlac Hill, William of Normandy landed at the old Roman city. After the Conquest, Roger, Earl of Mortmain and Cornwall, half-brother of the Conqueror, built the Norman building whose shattered walls are to be seen to-day. William Rufus, Simon de Montfort, and Stephen each attacked the castle, and it remained a fortress until the reign of Queen Elizabeth. In the south-eastern corner of the Brito-Roman city, there still stands an interesting old culverin, bearing the crown, Tudor rose, and the initials of Queen Elizabeth. It is one of two cannon placed there in 1587 in readiness for the Spaniards. The present castle shows the different work of several centuries. The remains of a much-weathered stone font, surrounded by an iron cage, stand in the centre of the enclosure. Near by, within a palisade, is the old castle well, with hart's-tongue ferns growing on the damp brick lining.
At one time Pevensey formed, with Hastings, one of the Cinque Ports. It began to decline as a seafaring place with the loss of its harbour, owing to the receding of the sea along the Sussex shore—the walls, which were formerly almost washed by the waves, being now quite a mile inland. Visitors may enter the castle on week days without charge.
WINCHESTER & ITS CATHEDRAL
How to get there.—Train from Waterloo. L. and S.W. Railway. Nearest Station.—Winchester. Distance from London.—66-1/2 miles. Average Time.—Varies between 1-1/2 to 2-3/4 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd Fares.—Single 11s. 0d. 7s. 0d. 5s. 6d. Return 19s. 3d. 12s. 2d. 10s. 6d.
Accommodation Obtainable.—"George Hotel," "Royal Hotel," "Black Swan Hotel," etc. Alternative Route.—Train from Paddington. Great Western Rly.
Winchester, the ancient Saxon capital of England, is situated near the foot of the chalk uplands surrounding the river Itchin. It is a city full of historical interest, and its two most striking features are the cathedral and college. Long before the Norman Conquest there was a grammar school at Winchester under the care of the monks. Bishop William of Wykeham was educated at this earlier school, and it was he who re-established it on a larger scale. The new college was founded at the end of the fourteenth century, under the direction of a corporation, and was allied to one of the colleges at Oxford. For five centuries this college, the most ancient of the public schools in England, has kept a foremost place among the many educational centres that now exist. Many of the college buildings remain almost the same as they were originally founded.
The cathedral, which is the largest in England, shows every style of architecture from pure Norman to Early Renaissance. It was founded by Walkelin, the first Norman bishop, whose carved font is one of the finest treasures of the building. Bishop Wykeham, at the end of the fourteenth century, continued the building, which had been steadily progressing for a considerable time, and commenced the partial casing of the Norman columns with Perpendicular mouldings. The vaulting shafts of the nave rise from the ground, and owing to the thickness of the Norman masonry, there is no proper triforium. The reredos was built by Cardinal Beaufort in the fifteenth century, and the Lady Chapel was added about the same time. Though it suffered much damage during the Parliamentary wars, the cathedral is wonderfully rich in monuments, all its various architects being buried there, and among the many shrines is that of William Rufus.
Winchester's associations with King Alfred, and its numerous examples of architecture of all the centuries, make the city one of the most interesting in England.
SAVERNAKE FOREST
How to get there.—Train from Paddington. Great Western Railway. Nearest Station.—Savernake. Distance from London.—70 miles. Average Time.—Varies between 2 to 3 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd Fares.—Single 11s. 8d. 7s. 4d. 5s. 10d. Return 20s. 6d. 12s. 10d. 11s. 8d.
Accommodation Obtainable.—"Forest Hotel" (near railway station), "Ailesbury Arms Hotel," etc., in Marlborough. Alternative Route.—Train from Waterloo. L. and S.W. Railway.
Savernake is said to be the only forest in England possessed by a subject. It occupies a piece of country 16 miles in circumference, is entirely open to all, and the Marquess of Ailesbury also allows Savernake Forest House to be seen by strangers when the family are absent. At Savernake Station one is brought within sight of the forest, and entering it at this point one is able to enjoy a lovely walk of 6 or 7 miles, which brings one out close to Marlborough Station, with the town on the further side of the railway. The forest is specially famous for its glorious avenue of beech 4 miles in length, and there is little doubt that there is no finer in the kingdom.
If one enters through the park gates, near Savernake Station, the house (formerly known as Tottenham House) lies on the right, and in the opposite direction one may notice, at the end of a perspective formed by great masses of elms and beeches, the column erected in 1781 by the first Earl of Ailesbury (the marquisate was not created until 1821), commemorating the recovery of George III. and other circumstances.
If one crosses the avenue and bears off to the right across the turf the church of St. Catherine will soon appear in sight. It is a very richly ornamented structure, and was built by a former Marchioness of Ailesbury, in memory of her mother the Countess of Pembroke. Returning to the avenue, one may continue down it for about 3 miles to the "eight walks," where an opening in the ranks of the stately trees reveals a number of grassy glades running off to the chief points of the compass. The walk going off to the south-west leads to the King's Oak, a gigantic tree whose hollow trunk is 24 feet in circumference. This oak is surrounded by a number of grand old trees, their bold outlines enriched with velvety moss. On an autumn afternoon, when the forest is a blaze of crimson and yellow, this spot is seen at its loveliest—the long shadows and the golden sunlight giving the scene a painted, almost too brilliant effect.
ELY CATHEDRAL
How to get there.—From Liverpool Street or St. Pancras. Great Eastern Railway. Nearest Station.—Ely. Distance from London.—70-1/2 miles. Average Time.—Varies from 1-3/4 to 3-1/4 hours. Quickest train 1 hour 38 minutes.
1st 2nd 3rd Fares.—Single 11s. 3d. ... 5s. 11-1/2d. Return 20s. 0d. ... 11s. 11d.
Accommodation Obtainable.—"Bell Hotel" and others.
Ely is situated on an eminence in the midst of the flat district forming the centre of the county of Cambridge, and was originally a settlement termed by the Saxons Eleg or Elge, i.e. "an eel," from the number of eels found in the fenny district around. St. Etheldreda, daughter of a king of the East Angles, founded an abbey here, where she died in 679, being afterwards canonised as a saint. The monastery was destroyed by the Danes in 870, and did not regain importance till one hundred years later.
In Hereward the Wake Kingsley tells us how gallantly the Isle of Ely was defended against the attacks of William the Conqueror, but the chieftain was at last forced to surrender, and the monastery was seized. Ely was created a bishopric by Henry I. in 1107.
The cathedral is one of the most beautiful and remarkable in England. The oldest portion was erected in the reign of William Rufus and Henry I., and additions were continually made to the fabric until 1534, so that it contains an almost unbroken series of the architectural styles prevailing from the Conquest, yet so wonderfully has the design been managed that no disagreeable effect is produced.
The nave of the cathedral, considered one of the finest specimens of Norman work in England, was completed about 1174, and the west front, built by Geoffrey Ridel, the third bishop, about ten years later. Originally there stood a square tower in the centre of the building, but this fell in 1322, crushing three arches of the choir. The repair of this misfortune was undertaken by the sacrist, Alan de Walsingham, who erected in 1342 the octagonal tower now existing.
The choir contains much rich decorated Gothic; and the east end of the cathedral, with its two tiers of lancet windows, is very beautiful. Another most interesting feature is the Lady Chapel, with a magnificent fan-vaulted roof; the walls were originally decorated with countless niches and statues of saints and martyrs, not one of which escaped the destroying hand of the Puritan.
ST. IVES, HUNTINGDONSHIRE
How to get there.—Train from Liverpool Street or St. Pancras. G.E.R. Nearest Station.—St. Ives. Distance from London.—70-1/2 miles. Average Time.—Varies between 2 to 3 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd Fares.—Single 8s. 9d. ... 4s. 10-1/2d. Return 17s. 6d. ... 9s. 9d.
Accommodation Obtainable.—At St. Ives, "The Golden Lion Hotel," "White Horse Hotel," etc. Alternative Route.—From King's Cross to Huntingdon. G.N. Rly.
St. Ives is a town of considerable antiquity, and in Saxon times was known as Slepe, which name is still retained by one of the two manors included in the parish, and it is applied to the town in the Domesday book. The more modern name is derived from Ivo, or St. Ives, a Persian who is said to have visited England in the sixth century, and to have been buried here.
A considerable part of the place was destroyed by fire in 1689, but there are still a number of quaint and interesting buildings. Over the Ouse is a stone bridge of six arches, supposed to have been built by the abbots of Ramsey. The approach to the bridge on the south side is by a causeway raised on arches to admit the passage of the waters in time of floods, which have on different occasions caused much damage here; and over one of the arches, near the centre of the bridge, is a mediaeval building, originally intended for a chapel.
The first church, built by Abbot Ednoth in the reign of King Edgar, was burnt in 1207, and rebuilt. The present structure, dedicated to All Saints, occupies the same site, close to the river, where it forms with the old houses adjoining a very charming picture. Until quite recent years, by a quaint bequest, dicing for bibles on the altar of the church took place every Whit Tuesday. The dicing is now done on a small table.
The interest in St. Ives and the neighbouring town of Huntingdon chiefly centres in the fact of their associations with Oliver Cromwell, who was born at the latter town in 1599. Cromwell went to school at Huntingdon, and from thence to Cambridge, but his father dying shortly afterwards, he returned home to manage family affairs. In 1628 he was elected for the borough of Huntingdon, but after the dissolution of Parliament, Cromwell returned to his native county and devoted himself to farming on the Ouse at Huntingdon and St. Ives. During his residence at St. Ives, Cromwell occupied the manor-house, Slepe Hall, which has been ruthlessly pulled down to allow of the erection of modern houses.
WINCHELSEA AND RYE
How to get there.—Train from Charing Cross, Cannon Street, or London Bridge. South-Eastern and Chatham Railway. Nearest Station.—Winchelsea. Distance from London.—72 miles. Average Time.—Varies between 2-1/4 to 3 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd Fares.—Single 12s. 0d. 7s. 6d. 6s. 0d. Return 21s. 0d. 15s. 0d. 12s. 0d.
Accommodation Obtainable.—"The New Inn," etc., Winchelsea. Routes.—Via Ashford or via Hastings.
Winchelsea, situated about 8 miles from Hastings, though now a small village, was once an important seaport, being one of the Cinque Ports. It has suffered severely from the sea, having been completely destroyed in 1287 by an inundation. It was afterwards rebuilt by Edward I. on higher ground. The French made several attempts on the town, and in 1380 succeeded in capturing and burning it. The gradual decay of the port was due to the retiring of the sea in the fifteenth century, which rendered the harbour useless. Winchelsea is a pretty place with massive gateways, survivals of the old fortified town. In the centre of the village is a square containing the remains of the old Parish Church built in 1288 in the Decorated style. The nave and transepts have gone, having been destroyed by the French, and only the chancel remains. It contains some interesting canopied tombs, one being to Gervase Alard, Admiral of the Cinque Ports in 1383. John Wesley preached his last open-air sermon in the churchyard.
Rye lies 2 miles east of Winchelsea, and though more flourishing than the latter place, has much dwindled in importance, since it too was a Cinque Port. The town is built on a hill, and the steep, narrow streets are filled with quaint houses. The harbour is still visited by small fishing-boats. The French constantly attacked Rye, and in 1380 they succeeded in burning it. Overlooking the sea and belonging to the old wall is the Ypres Tower, built in the reign of Stephen by William de Ypres.
Close to the tower is the large Parish Church, which contains much Decorated Gothic work, although its oldest portions are Norman, the church having been partly rebuilt after the destruction caused by the French in 1380. It contains a wonderful clock, made in Queen Elizabeth's reign, and said to be the oldest in England still in working order. It has a long pendulum which comes through the ceiling and swings in the church.
BLENHEIM PALACE
How to get there.—Train from Paddington. Great Western Railway. Nearest Station.—Blenheim. Distance from London.—72-3/4 miles. Average Time.—2-1/4 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd Fares.—Single 12s. 0d. 7s. 6d. 6s. 0-1/2d. Return 21s. 2d. 13s. 4d. ...
Accommodation Obtainable.—"Bear Inn," Woodstock, "King's Arms Hotel," "Marlborough Hotel," "Star Hotel," etc.
Blenheim Palace, the magnificent seat of the Duke of Marlborough, was, like Strathfieldsaye, erected at the public expense. On the 2nd of August 1704, the great Duke of Marlborough gained a decisive victory over the combined forces of the French and Bavarians near the village of Blenheim, on the banks of the Danube. The French and Bavarians left 10,000 killed and wounded on the field, huge numbers were drowned in the river, and about 13,000 taken prisoners. The victory was complete, and immediately afterwards Queen Anne presented the victorious general with a "grant of the honour of Woodstock," this being followed by a vote of L500,000 for the erection of the palace and the laying out of the grounds. The building was erected from the designs of Sir John Vanbrugh, the great architect and dramatist. It is of enormous size, the frontage being 350 feet from wing to wing, and the entire structure covers about 7 acres. The gateway to the park on the Woodstock side is a fine Corinthian triumphal arch, giving access to a magnificent avenue more than 2 miles in length.
Among the principal apartments of the palace are the lofty entrance hall, with a fine painted ceiling by Thornhill; the bay-window room with its famous tapestry; the dining-room, containing many family portraits by Sir Joshua Reynolds; the marble saloon, the ceilings and walls of which are painted by La Guerre; and the library, a magnificent room nearly 200 feet long, containing about 20,000 volumes. In addition to these, there are the chapel and theatre, as well as the state and other drawing-rooms. The Titian room was totally destroyed by fire, with a large portion of the north-east section of the palace, in February 1861.
The ancient road, called Akeman Street, runs across the park, and Roman remains have been discovered near it.
The palace is open every day (except Saturdays and Sundays) from 11 to 1, and the gardens from 11 to 2. Either can be seen separately by tickets, 1s. each, obtainable at the porter's lodge.
PETERBOROUGH CATHEDRAL AND CROWLAND
How to get there.—Train from King's Cross. Great Northern Rly. Nearest Station.—Peterborough. Distance from London.—76-1/2 miles. Average Time.—Varies between 1-1/4 to 2-1/4 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd Fares.—Single 11s. 3d. ... 6s. 4d. Return 22s. 6d. ... 12s. 8d.
Accommodation Obtainable.—"Great Northern Railway Company's Hotel," "Golden Lion Hotel," "Angel Hotel," "Grand Hotel," etc., at Peterborough. Alternative Route.—Train from Liverpool Street, via Ely. Great Eastern Railway.
Nine miles north of Peterborough the ruins of Crowland Abbey arise out of the flat fen country like a lighthouse out of the sea. With only the nave and north aisle standing, it breathes the very spirit of romance even in its decay. It is easy to picture the time when four streams surrounded the monastery and church and formed an island in the fens, and to recall how Hereward the Wake demanded entrance to the abbey to see Torfrida, and was refused admittance by the Abbot Ulfketyl. In those days two rivers met in the High Street of the little town that grew round St. Guthlac's Monastery. Now the country is drained, Crowland is a decayed little town with many thatched roofs, situated in an agricultural district; the island exists no longer, and the old triangular bridge rises over the dry Square at a place where three roads meet. This bridge is older and more peculiar than any bridge in Europe that is not of Roman origin. It is believed to have been built in 870, and consists of three pointed arches rising steeply in the centre to permit the rush of water in flood times. It is too steep to admit of its use by any sort of vehicle, and one ascends by steps to the top. At the end of one portion of the bridge there is a stone image of a Saxon king—possibly Ethelbert—with a loaf in one hand.
In the time of Ethelbald, King of Mercians, a young noble named Guthlac, weary of life's rough way, sought peace in the ascetic life. He drifted in a boat to Crowland Isle, and there lived a hermit's life till his death in 817. On the spot where he died Ethelbald founded and endowed a monastery on the island, and it flourished exceedingly. The larger part of the conventual church is now destroyed, but the north aisle is used as the Parish Church of Crowland.
PETERBOROUGH
As was the case with Wells, Peterborough would have had no existence but for its cathedral, which was reared in the midst of the fertile fen country near the slow-flowing river Ness. But the coming of the railways has roused the country town, and in the last fifty years its population has increased fivefold. It is situated in a rich agricultural district, and has a good trade in farm products. Its annual wool and cattle markets are well known in the eastern counties.
On the site of the present cathedral a minster was built in 870 by a king of Mercia. On its being destroyed by Danes, a new building was erected, which was burned down in 1116. The foundations of the Saxon church can be seen in the crypt. The new Norman building was consecrated in 1237, and has remained with few alterations to the present day. While the interior of St. Albans Cathedral shows every phase of Norman and Gothic architecture, that of Peterborough is remarkable as showing practically one style throughout the entire building. The west front has been described as the "grandest portico in Europe." It is Early English in style, and the finest feature of the cathedral. Its three colossal arches are flanked and strengthened by two turreted towers with spires. It needs a close observer to perceive that the central gable of the west front is smaller than the side ones, for the difficulty has been cleverly overcome. The northern gable and part of the arch below have been repaired very carefully amid an outcry from all parts of England against the restoration. However, the work was proved to be necessary, as the mortar had crumbled to dust, and many stones were merely resting one on the other. The Perpendicular Galilee Porch over the small doorway adds strength to the facade. The room over it is used as a library.
Perhaps the most interesting feature of the interior is the twelfth-century wooden vaulting of the nave. There is no Lady Chapel at the east end as is usually the case. When the ritual demanded a retro-choir for processions, the Norman apse fortunately was not pulled down, but the new building, Tudor in style, and with a beautiful stone-vaulted roof, was built round it. After Ely's Tower fell, the Norman central tower of Peterborough was pulled down as if a similar fate was feared for it, and a shorter tower was erected in its place. Two queens have been buried in the church, namely, Catherine of Arragon and Mary Queen of Scots. The remains of both queens have been removed to Westminster Abbey.
Other places worth visiting in Peterborough are the Parish Church and a well-preserved thirteenth-century manor-house at Longthorpe.
SOUTHAMPTON
How to get there.—Train from Waterloo. L. and S.W. Railway. Nearest Stations.—Southampton Docks or Southampton West. Distance from London.—78-3/4 miles. Average Time.—Varies between 2-1/4 to 3-1/2 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd Fares.—Single 13s. 0d. 8s. 2d. 6s. 6d. Return 23s. 0d. 14s. 6d. 11s. 6d.
Accommodation Obtainable.—"The Royal Hotel," "Radley's Hotel," "London and South-Western Hotel," "Dolphin Hotel," "Royal Pier Hotel," "Flower's Temperance," etc. Alternative Route.—From Paddington. Fares as above.
The earliest accounts of Southampton are vague and uncertain. On the opposite bank of the Itchen, at Bitterne, was the Roman station of Clausentum, but Southampton itself seems to have been originally a settlement of the West Saxons. In the reign of William the Conqueror, Southampton, owing to its situation, became the principal port of embarkation for Normandy. In 1295 it first returned representatives to Parliament, and in 1345 was strongly fortified, and able to contribute twenty-one ships to the Royal Navy, Portsmouth only supplying five. Many expeditions for Normandy embarked here during the reigns of the Plantagenets, and the men who fought and won at Crecy and Agincourt must have passed, on the way to their ships, under the old West Gate, which still remains much as it was in those stirring times.
The town is full of interesting relics of every description, one of the most remarkable being the old wall, of which a considerable portion remains; that known as The Arcades, built in a series of arches, being specially noticeable. Close by, in Blue Anchor Lane, is a Norman house, reputed to be King John's palace, and claiming, with several others, to be the oldest house in England.
The town was formerly entered by several gates, two of which, Westgate and Bargate, are still in a good state of preservation.
The Bargate stands in the centre of the High Street, and is an excellent example of mediaeval fortification.
At the head of Blue Anchor Lane is the remarkably picturesque and substantial Tudor house, once the residence of Henry VIII. and Anne Boleyn, and nearly opposite rises the tall tower of St. Michael's, the oldest church in Southampton. The building is open all day (the keys being obtainable on inquiry), and contains a remarkable carved black marble font, reputed to be of Byzantine origin, and a fine eagle lectern of the fifteenth century.
HELMINGHAM HALL
How to get there.—Great Eastern Railway. Liverpool Street. Nearest Station.—Woodbridge (10 miles). Distance from London.—79 miles. Average Time.—Varies between 2 to 2-1/2 hours. Quickest train 1 hour 56 minutes.
1st 2nd 3rd Fares.—Single 14s. 9d. ... 6s. 8d. Return 22s. 2d. ... 13s. 4d.
Accommodation Obtainable.—"The Bull Hotel," etc., at Woodbridge.
Helmingham Hall, the seat of Lord Tollemache, lies in a beautiful park, ten miles from Woodbridge, in Suffolk, and has been one of the homes of the family for generations. The Tollemache family own two of the finest Tudor houses in this country, Ham House near Richmond, the property of the Earls of Dysart, and Helmingham, which now belongs to the other branch of the Tollemache peerage. Helmingham came to them in the reign of Henry VIII., by the marriage of Lionel Tollemache with the daughter and heiress of Sir William Joyce, who owned a home called Creke Hall. The present mansion he rebuilt on the same site, in all probability retaining the ancient moat.
The hall is approached through an entrance gateway, giving access to a fine avenue leading directly up a gentle slope to the moat and main drawbridge of the hall. The house, of red brick, wonderfully tinted by the hand of time, is remarkably picturesque, with its twisted chimneys, finely proportioned gables, and beautiful bay windows; and its charm is considerably enhanced by the brickwork, with sturdy buttresses here and there, rising sheer out of the clear and tranquil waters of the moat. The hall is entered by two bridges, each ending in a drawbridge, which is kept in full working order, and both drawbridges are, and have been for some hundreds of years, hauled up at ten o'clock every night, when the house can only be approached from the park by means of a boat.
On crossing the main bridge, one enters the inner court, a fine red brick quadrangle, much after the style of those at Hampton Court. From this access is gained to the various wings and apartments of the mansion, the finest room being the hall, with its deep oak dado, fireplace, and open timber roof. The best suite of rooms looks out across the moat to the beautiful gardens. These are some of the most magnificent in the county, and they are most carefully and elaborately arranged, and always kept in fine condition. The garden is divided into two portions by a strip of water covered with lilies.
STONEHENGE, WILTSHIRE
How to get there.—Train from Waterloo. South-Western Railway. Nearest Station.—Amesbury (1-1/2 miles from Stonehenge). Distance from London.—80 miles. Average Time.—3 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd Fares.—Single 13s. 2d. 8s. 3d. 6s. 7-1/2d. Return 23s. 2d. 14s. 8d. 13s. 3d.
Accommodation Obtainable.—"The George Hotel" at Amesbury. "Railway Hotel" (small) at Porton. Alternative Route.—Porton Station, 5-1/2 miles, and Salisbury Station, 8 miles from Stonehenge.
One of the earliest and most enduring works of man in the British Islands is to be seen in the circles of giant stones on Salisbury Plain. They stand in two concentric circles. The outer ring of monoliths encloses an inner one of blue stones about half their height. These in turn surround a horseshoe formation consisting of the remains of five great trilithons. Some of these stones have fallen across the flat one known as the altar stone, occupying a central position at the head of the horseshoe. On the 21st of June the sun rises exactly in a line with the centre of the horseshoe and the long earthen avenue leading towards the stones, and thus throws a ray between two of the outer monoliths and touches the altar stone. This orientation on the plan of so many eastern shrines proves that Stonehenge was the temple of some early sun-worshipping race of men in Britain.
Sir Norman Lockyer's recent observations at the summer solstice have placed the date of erection at about 1680 B.C., and the discovery of flint implements beneath some Roman remains also points to neolithic times. The upright stones and those resting upon them were originally all mortised and tenoned together, and from the fact that no similar stone is found nearer than Marlborough Downs the primitive men must have hauled the stones considerable distances by means of long leather ropes. The small blue stones were possibly brought from Normandy.
Other stone circles and similar remains are to be seen at Avebury, Rollright, and Kit's Coty House, a few miles from Rochester. Also in Shropshire there is a district rich in stone circles and prehistoric remains. This is in a line north of Bishops Castle and Shelve, and to those who appreciate wild scenery this part of the county may be specially recommended.
NETLEY ABBEY
How to get there.—Train from Waterloo via Southampton. L. and S.W. Railway. Nearest Station.—Netley (about a mile from the abbey). Distance from London.—82-1/4 miles. Average Time.—Varies between 2-3/4 to 4-1/2 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd Fares.—Single 13s. 6d. 8s. 6d. 6s. 9-1/2d. Return 23s. 10d. 15s. 0d. 12s. 3d.
Accommodation Obtainable.—"Royal Hotel," "Radley's Hotel," "Dolphin," "South-Western," etc., Southampton (3 miles from Netley).
Netley is a small village on Southampton Water, about 3 miles south-east of the town of Southampton. It is famous for the ruins of Netley Abbey, which are not far from the shore, in a wooded and picturesque nook. The abbey is supposed to have been founded by Peter des Roches, Bishop of Winchester in Henry III.'s reign, and the monks belonged to the Cistercian order. It was neither a rich nor famous establishment, and the monks possessed but one book, Cicero's Treaty on Rhetoric. Since the Dissolution the abbey has belonged to many different families. Only the walls are now standing, but enough remains to show how beautiful it once was. The buildings formed a square of which the south wall of the church formed the side opposite the entrance. Various buildings in connection with the monastery formed the rest of the quadrangle, which was known as Fountain Court. The kitchen is still roofed in, although it has lost its stone groining. Other buildings are, conjecturally, the buttery and the refectory. Near the kitchen is a curious underground passage leading to the castle (erected by Henry VIII.), which stands nearer the shore than the abbey. It is thought to be a drain.
The church is of cruciform shape, in Early English style. Though the west end is now in a very ruinous condition, the great east window is fairly well preserved. It has two lights, and is very beautifully proportioned. Outside the court is the garden, with lawns and trees, too often desecrated by picnic parties, and the ponds that supplied the monks with fish are now choked up. It is said that a carpenter who bought the materials of the church from Sir Bartlet Lucy was warned in a dream by a monk not to destroy the building. He paid no heed, and was killed by the west window falling on him.
The Royal Victoria Hospital for Sick Soldiers, erected after the Crimean War, can be seen at Netley.
SALISBURY AND ITS CATHEDRAL
How to get there.—Train from Waterloo. L. and S.W. Rly. Nearest Station.—Salisbury. Distance from London.—83-1/4 miles. Average Time.—Varies between 1-3/4 and 3-1/4 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd Fares.—Single 14s. 0d. 8s. 9d. 6s. 11-1/2d. Return 24s. 6d. 15s. 4d. 12s. 0d.
Accommodation Obtainable.—"Angel Hotel," "Crown Hotel," "White Hart Hotel," etc. Alternative Route.—Train from Paddington. Great Western Rly.
Salisbury Cathedral is, in the opinion of many, the finest of all the English cathedrals, and it certainly has many claims to be considered so. The vast building was completed within fifty years, and is therefore practically in one style throughout, an advantage not shared by any other cathedral in the kingdom. Its situation, too, is unique, standing as it does in the fine old close, entirely separated from any other buildings, and with its grey walls and buttresses rising sheer up from such velvety turf as is seen in England alone. The tower and spire are perhaps the most beautiful in this country.
Passing into the close by the gate at the end of the High Street, one reaches the west front, which is very rich in effect, with its tiers of canopied statues and wonderfully proportioned windows. Through the beautiful north porch one passes into the nave, which, though exceedingly beautiful, has a certain air of coldness owing to the absence of stained glass. It seems hardly credible that this beautiful glass, the making of which is now a lost art, was deliberately destroyed at the end of the eighteenth century by the so-called "architect" James Wyatt. In addition to this, "Wyatt swept away screens, chapels, and porches, desecrated and destroyed the tombs of warriors and prelates; obliterated ancient paintings, flung stained glass by cartloads into the city ditch, and razed to the ground the beautiful old campanile which stood opposite the north porch."
The Lady Chapel of the cathedral is one of the most beautiful in the kingdom.
Although the cathedral is the great glory of Salisbury, there are plenty of interesting mediaeval buildings in the city. In the close itself are the King's House and the King's Wardrobe, both old gabled houses of great beauty. St. Thomas's and St. Edmund's are the two most interesting churches in the city.
About 2 miles north of Salisbury is a group of pretty cottages on the Avon, forming the village of Milston. Here, on May 1, 1672, Joseph Addison was born in the old rectory, now unfortunately pulled down. His father, Lancelot Addison, was rector of the parish.
SANDWICH, KENT
How to get there.—Train from Charing Cross, Cannon Street, and London Bridge. South-Eastern and Chatham Railway. Nearest Station.—Sandwich. Distance from London.—84-1/2 miles. Average Time.—Varies between 2-1/2 to 3 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd Fares.—Single 13s. 0d. 8s. 4d. 6s. 6d. Return 22s. 8d. 16s. 8d. 13s. 0d.
Accommodation Obtainable.—"Bell," "Bell and Anchor," "Fleur de Lys," etc.
It is difficult to realise that Sandwich, now 1-1/2 miles from the coast, was yet once situated on the sea, and was the second in importance of the Cinque Ports. In Roman and early Saxon times a wide arm of the Thames, called the Wantsume, flowed from Reculver (then known as Regulbium), where it was a mile wide, southwards to what is now the mouth of the Stour. Between Ebbsfleet and Worth it was over 4 miles wide. The Roman fortress of Ritupiae (Richborough) guarded it on the south, and the river Stour flowed into it at Stourmouth. This stream caused so much alluvial deposit that the sea receded from Richborough in early Saxon times, and part of the population removed to Sandwich. The repeated attacks by the Danes and the French did not check the growth of the town, which attained its maximum prosperity in Edward IV.'s reign, when it was walled. But the sea left its shores, and the town declined to again rise in importance, when the 400 Flemish emigrants settled there in Elizabeth's reign and introduced silk-weaving, flannel manufactures, and market-gardening.
Sandwich contains some of the richest bits of mediaeval architecture in England. There are some traces of the walls to be seen, and one ancient gateway is perfect, Fisher's Gate, near the quay. On the north is the Tudor barbican gate. St. Clement's Church possesses a central Norman tower. The nave is in the Perpendicular style, and the chancel is Decorated. Both have fine roofs. St. Peter's Church (thirteenth century) has a tower, but its south aisle was destroyed in 1661. The session-room at the town hall has some curious seats for the mayor and aldermen, and the hospital of St. Bartholomew's has an Early English chapel. The best of the ancient houses in the town are in Strand Street and Lucksboat Street. Manswood Grammar School dates from 1564, and has a Flemish front.
At Richborough can be seen some Roman rectangular walls about 10 feet high, with a subterranean concrete building in the centre.
NEW FOREST, HAMPSHIRE
How to get there.—Train from Waterloo. L. and S.W. Railway. Nearest Station.—Lyndhurst Road Station (3 miles). Distance from London.—85-1/4 miles. Average Time.—Varies between 2-1/4 to 3-3/4 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd Fares.—Single 14s. 2d. 9s. 0d. 7s. 1d. Return 24s. 10d. 15s. 8d. 14s. 2d.
Accommodation Obtainable.—"Grand Hotel," Lyndhurst; "Crown Hotel," Lyndhurst; "Rose and Crown," Brockenhurst, etc.
The popular story as to the creation of what was then the "New" Forest by William the Conqueror has been probably much exaggerated, although we all believed in our school days the old chroniclers, who averred that the king destroyed fifty or so churches and numerous villages, and exterminated their inhabitants. The fact is that the harsh feudal forest laws were rigidly enforced by the Conqueror, who no doubt in some places swept away the villages and churches of rebellious foresters, but the very qualities of the forest soil disprove the fact that the land was once all "smiling pastures and golden cornfields," as some of the old historians would have us believe.
The New Forest of the present day forms a triangle about 20 miles long and 12 broad, of which the base is a line drawn westward from the mouth of the Beaulieu river to within a mile or two of the Avon, the apex reaching to the confines of Wiltshire. The forest scenery is extremely diversified, but always very beautiful; glades and reaches of gentle park and meadow, and open heath-like stretches, contrast wonderfully with the actual masses of huge beeches, under some of which daylight never penetrates.
Lyndhurst, the little capital of the New Forest, is situated in its centre, and is one of the best points from which to explore the beauties of the district. The church at Lyndhurst is modern, rebuilt in 1863; but it should be visited in order to see the large altar-fresco of the Ten Virgins executed by the late Lord Leighton. A little way beyond the church is the Queen's House, built in Charles II.'s reign. Here resides the Deputy-Surveyor, who administers under the Crown, while six elected Verderers, in their courts of Swain-mote, represent the Commoners. In the hall is kept what is known as William Rufus's stirrup-iron.
Close to the village of Minsted is Malwood Lodge, Sir William Harcourt's New Forest seat. From a ridge near this there are grand views of the forest, till one comes to the Compton Arms Hotel, a completely isolated inn, near the Rufus Stone, which marks the spot where William II. fell by the arrow of Walter Tyrell.
OSBORNE HOUSE
How to get there.—Train from London Bridge or Victoria. London, Brighton, and South Coast Railway. Nearest Station.—Cowes. Distance from London.—87 miles. Average Time.—Varies between 4 to 5-1/4 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd Fares.—Single 16s. 0d. 10s. 5d. 8s. 10d. Return 27s. 10d. 18s. 2d. 16s. 4d.
Accommodation Obtainable.—Cowes—"Fountain Hotel," "The Gloster," "Royal Marine Hotel." Alternative Route.—Train from Waterloo via Southampton. L. and S.W. Railway.
Osborne House having been presented to the nation by King Edward, portions of the buildings and grounds are, or will be, available to the public on week days.
This stately marine residence of the late Queen Victoria is situated in the Isle of Wight, an island remarkable for the variety and beauty of its scenery. The Queen purchased the estate in 1845 from Lady Elizabeth Blachford, and the palace was finished in 1851. Since that time many additions have been made. The main gates are about three-quarters of a mile up the hill from the ferry, and the Prince of Wales's Gate further south, opposite the hotel. Osborne House has a melancholy interest attached to it, for here, on January 22, 1901, Queen Victoria breathed her last. A portion of every year was spent by the Queen at her seaside home, which had many associations of her happy life there with her husband, the late Prince Consort, "Albert the Good." Surrounded with their children, they forgot the splendours and fatigues of Court, and devoted themselves to training their family in all that was useful and good. The Queen nearly always spoke of Osborne as "her island home." She and Prince Albert delighted in the fact that it was their own, that they could make their own plans, exercise their own taste in the laying out of the gardens, and in the building—in fact, in everything in this seaside home. The building is in the Palladian style, and was designed by Thomas Cubitt and the late Prince Consort. The grounds, covering 5000 acres, are 8 miles in extent, with a sea front of 1-1/3 miles. The terrace gardens are ornamented with statuary, and the grounds lead down to the water's edge, where there are sea baths and a private pier. The last journey of Victoria the Good from Osborne to the mausoleum at Frogmore, in the grounds of Windsor Castle, was a spectacle never to be forgotten.
CARISBROOKE CASTLE
How to get there.—Train from Victoria or London Bridge via Portsmouth and Ryde. London, Brighton, and South Coast Railway. Nearest Station.—Carisbrooke. Distance from London.—88 miles. Average Time.—Varies between 3-1/2 to 5-1/2 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd Fares.—Single 16s. 4d. 10s. 8d. 9s. 1d. Return 28s. 4d. 18s. 6d. 16s. 8d.
Accommodation Obtainable.—"Red Lion Hotel," "Waverley Hotel," "Eight Bells Hotel," "Castle Hotel," "Temperance Hotel," etc. Alternative Route.—Train from Waterloo via Cowes and Ryde. L. and S.W. Railway.
Carisbrooke village is a charming place delightfully situated in the centre of the island. The castle (the charge for entering is 4d.) stands on a wooded hill at an elevation of 150 feet. The summit of the hill forms a level plateau about 20 acres in extent, all enclosed by the castle walls. Sir Walter Scott is said to have had this castle in his mind when writing Marmion. Beyond the great interest attached to the fact that it was here that Charles I. was confined, the castle does not figure very prominently in history. The fact, however, that this unfortunate monarch was imprisoned here in 1647 by the Parliament will be always sufficient to give its ancient walls and battlements a never-dying interest. When Charles was brought to the castle he was treated more as a guest than a prisoner, but after his attempted escape the king was much more closely watched and his pleasures curtailed. The story of the king attempting in vain to get through his bedroom window is known to all. Everything was in readiness, the details of rescue were all carefully prepared. Captain Titus and others of the guard had been won over to assist the king, and had King Charles negotiated the narrow window, in all probability the escape would have been a success. In 1650, the year after Charles I. was beheaded, Henry Duke of Gloucester and the Princess Elizabeth were brought to the castle. Shortly after her arrival the princess, who was of a sickly constitution, took a severe chill and was found one morning by her attendants lying dead on a couch. Queen Victoria had a beautiful monument erected to her memory in Newport Church. The Well House, where the water is drawn from the depth of 150 feet by a clever donkey and draw-wheel, is an interesting feature of the castle. Princess Beatrice is the present Governor of the Island.
LUTTERWORTH
THE HOME OF JOHN WYCLIFF
How to get there.—Train from Marylebone. Great Central Railway. Nearest Station.—Lutterworth. Distance from London.—90 miles. Average Time.—Varies between 2-1/4 to 3 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd Fares.—Single 12s. 4d. ... 7s. 0d. Return 24s. 0d. ... 14s. 0d.
Accommodation Obtainable.—"Hind Hotel," "Denbigh Arms," "Fox," etc.
Situated in typical English midland scenery, the quiet little country town of Lutterworth rises from the surrounding undulating pasture-land. Here, in the beginning of the fourteenth century, when it was probably merely a fair-sized village, John Wycliff, the "Morning Star of the Reformation," and founder of the Lollards, was born. The main street slopes down the hill, beyond the houses, till it reaches the river side, where it is carried over the little river Swift on a small bridge.
A good proportion of the church, which is so closely associated with Wycliff, dates from the fourteenth century. It is a large building, with a tower and belfry stage, and four crocketed pinnacles. The tower was formerly surmounted by a wooden belfry, but this was destroyed by the great gale of 1703. The nave is lighted by a clerestory, and the aisles are divided by high arches. The church is built in Early Perpendicular style, but there is a good decorated window at the eastern end of the south aisle, where there used to be a Lady Chapel. The lower portions of the walls date from before the time of Wycliff. At the eastern end of the chancel are an aumbry and piscina. About thirty years ago the church was restored by Sir Gilbert Scott, when much new stone was inserted.
There are three interesting frescoes in the interior: one is believed to represent Queen Philippa asking Edward III. to give the living of Lutterworth to Wycliff. The roof of the nave is formed of fine woodwork of the Perpendicular period, but the pulpit, a splendid piece of fourteenth-century oak carving, claims the chief interest, being the same from which the great reformer preached. The base has been renewed, and the rest has been much repaired, but the same pulpit has been in use for more than 500 years. A fragment of Wycliff's cope or chasuble is preserved in a glass case in the vestry, but some doubt attaches to the origin of "Wycliff's chair," which seems of considerably later date.
COMPTON WYNYATES
How to get there.—Train from Euston. London and North-Western Railway. Nearest Station.—Kineton (5 miles from Compton Wynyates). Distance from London.—91-3/4 miles. Average Time.—Varies between 2 to 3-3/4 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd Fares.—Single 14s. 4d. 9s. 0d. 7s. 8d. Return 26s. 6d. 16s. 11d. ...
Accommodation Obtainable.—At Kineton—"Red Lion Hotel," "Swan Hotel." Alternative Route.—None.
Compton Wynyates, the seat of the Marquess of Northampton, is one of the most beautiful Tudor houses in England, and although Warwickshire is exceedingly rich in castles and fine old houses, it can show nothing to surpass this time-worn pile of red brick and stone. Though the moat, which was the outer guard of the place, has been partly filled in and converted into smooth lawns, one of the most romantic aspects of the house is to be seen across an angle of the watery enclosure. The buildings surround a quadrangle, the entrance being made through a beautiful Tudor gateway. In the spandrils of its archway are carved the arms of Henry VIII., with the griffin and greyhound for supporters and the royal crown above.
The house was built by Sir William Compton during the reign of Henry VIII., with the exception of some additions, including the great parlour panelled with oak, which dates from the days of Queen Elizabeth.
To touch on half the glories of this perfect Tudor house would occupy many pages of this book—its beautiful chapel with its curious carvings with the seven deadly sins represented as knights in armour, the great hall in which Henry VIII. was welcomed by Sir William Compton, the drawing-room with its fine plaster ceiling—all are so full of beauty and interest that they can merely be referred to here.
The situation of the house in a richly timbered hollow adds infinitely to its charm. The gardens, too, are of the beautiful type that one learns to expect in conjunction with so lovely a dwelling, while flowering creepers on the towers and on the gabled walls complete an ideal picture of all that is loveliest in an old English mansion.
Permission to see Compton Wynyates can only be obtained by a written application.
KENILWORTH CASTLE
How to get there.—Train from Euston. L. and N.W. Railway. Nearest Station.—Kenilworth. Distance from London.—99 miles. Average Time.—Varies between 2-1/2 to 4 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd Fares.—Single 15s. 3d. 10s. 2d. 8s. 1-1/2d. Return 28s. 3d. 17s. 10d. 16s. 3d.
Accommodation Obtainable.—"Abbey Hotel," "King's Arms," "Castle Hotel," etc. Alternative Route.—None.
Kenilworth is a small town, situated midway between Coventry and Warwick, about 5 miles from either town. It is chiefly noted for the ruins of the famous castle, so celebrated from its association with Sir Walter Scott's romance. The castle was built in the reign of Henry I., the site having been granted to Geoffrey de Clinton, Lord Chief Justice of England. The fortress at one time belonged to Simon de Montfort, who imprisoned Henry III. and his son Edward during the War of the Barons. Edward II. also was forced to sign his abdication there. Queen Elizabeth gave the castle as a present to her favourite, Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester, who spent large sums in making great alterations and additions, and entertained the Queen on four different occasions. The memorable visit that has been described by Scott took place in 1575, when Dudley not only lodged Queen Elizabeth, her court, and 400 servants for seventeen days, but provided a series of pageants and festivities to please his royal mistress. During the Civil War the castle was taken by Cromwell and given by him to Colonel Hawkesworth and some other officers belonging to his army. They destroyed the place very much, draining the lake, besides pulling down walls and towers. The estate now belongs to the Earl of Clarendon, to whose ancestor, Lawrence Hyde, Earl of Rochester, it was given by Charles II. The only building which has still preserved its roof is the gatehouse, built by Robert Dudley. It is now used as a dwelling-house, and contains some beautiful panelling and also a wonderful chimney-piece. The rest of the castle is very ruined, but the remains are of great interest, being sufficient to convey an impression of the castle as it originally stood. Close to the parish church are the ruins of the priory, which was founded at the same time as the castle, by Geoffrey de Clinton. At the Dissolution it was completely destroyed, and only the gatehouse remains.
BELVOIR CASTLE
THE SEAT OF THE DUKE OF RUTLAND
How to get there.—Train from King's Cross. Great Northern Rly. Nearest Station.—Grantham (7 miles from Belvoir Castle). Distance from London.—105-1/4 miles. Average Time.—Varies between 2 and 2-3/4 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd Fares.—Single 15s. 10d. ... 8s. 9d. Return 31s. 8d. ... 17s. 6d.
Accommodation Obtainable.—"Angel Hotel," etc., at Grantham. Alternative Route.—None.
Belvoir Castle, the Leicestershire seat of the Duke of Rutland, stands on a lofty eminence, commanding a magnificent view over the rich vale of Belvoir. It was originally founded by Robert de Todeni, a Norman noble, and a standard-bearer to William the Conqueror. In the reign of Henry III. the property passed to Robert de Roos, and in the time of Henry VIII. to the family of Manners, who have held it ever since. The building suffered much damage during the Wars of the Roses and the Parliamentary Civil War. James I. was entertained there in 1603, on his way from Scotland to London, by Roger, the fifth Earl. In 1814, George IV., then Prince Regent, visited the castle, in commemoration of which one of the towers was named Regent Tower. In 1816, alterations were being carried out in the interior, under the direction of James Wyatt, the architect, when a fire broke out and almost entirely destroyed the castle. The picture gallery and the grand staircase perished utterly, and the damage was reckoned at L120,000. The final restoration was completed by Matthew Wyatt, who succeeded in building one of the finest palaces in the length and breadth of England. One of the features of the mansion is a magnificent picture gallery in which hang priceless works by Nicolas Poussin, Claude, Murillo, Reynolds, Gainsborough, and other old masters. The name "Belvoir" is derived from the magnificent prospects lying around it in all directions, the view extending over the level country for 30 miles; more than 170 towns and villages are visible within its horizon. The castle is situated in the midst of a fine sporting country, the Belvoir hounds being one of the finest packs in the country.
Near the mansion, and below it, are some remains of a priory also founded by the Norman owner, Robert de Todeni, about 1076. This priory was dedicated to St. Mary, and was annexed to the Abbey of St. Albans.
BATH
How to get there.—Train from Paddington. Great Western Rly. Nearest Station.—Bath. Distance from London.—107 miles. Average Time.—2-1/2 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd Fares.—Single 17s. 10d. 11s. 2d. 8s. 11d. Return 31s. 3d. 19s. 6d. 17s. 10d.
Accommodation Obtainable.—"Empire Hotel," "Pulteney Hotel," "York House Family Hotel," "Royal Station Hotel," "Railway Hotel," "Waldron's Private Hotel," etc. Alternative Route.—Train from Waterloo. South-Western Railway.
Bath, one of the largest towns in Somersetshire, is beautifully situated on the Avon in a wooded valley in the north-east of the county. The city is of great antiquity, and was one of the most powerful Roman stations, being at the intersection of two very important roads,—the Fosse Way, which extended from the coast of Devonshire to the north-east coast of Lincolnshire, and the Via Julia, the great road between London and Wales. The story of the British king Bladud and his connection with Bath is immortalised in the Pickwick Papers, but is more or less legendary; however, as to the greatness of the city during the Roman occupation there is ample evidence. Even in those times the great natural feature of the place was its mineral waters, and in the first century the Romans built some luxurious baths there, and now the extensive remains have made the place notable. The Saxons quaintly named the city Akeman Ceaster, or town of invalids.
In the original Abbey Church took place the coronation of King Edgar as King of England by the famous St. Dunstan, Archbishop of Canterbury. This church stands on the site of the old conventual church, on the spot where once stood the Roman temple of Minerva. It was rebuilt in the fifteenth century by Bishop Oliver King, and completed by Bishop Montague at the beginning of the seventeenth century. On the west front are sculptures representing the angels upon Jacob's Ladder, and the whole building teems with interest; but the original purity of its architecture has been much marred by faulty and ignorant restoration.
Till the middle of the eighteenth century Bath covered no larger area than that contained within the Roman walls, but Queen Anne and Prince George of Denmark having conceived a great partiality for the place, and the medicinal quality of the waters being much advocated, the city rapidly grew in favour and size, until it reached its heyday in the time of Beau Nash and the Prince Regent.
BOSTON AND THE PILGRIM FATHERS
How to get there.—Train from King's Cross. Great Northern Rly. Nearest Station.—Boston. Distance from London.—107-1/4 miles. Average Time.—3 hours.
1st 2nd 3rd Fares.—Single 15s. 4d. ... 8s. 11d. Return 30s. 8d. ... 17s. 10d.
Accommodation Obtainable.—"Peacock and Royal," "Red Lion" Hotels, etc. Alternative Route.—None.
The English Boston, which gave its name to the great American seaport, was at one time—although it is hard to believe—of as relatively great importance as its mighty namesake of to-day. In the time of Edward III. it was considered the third most important town in England, for during that reign it contributed no fewer than seventeen ships to the great fleet which was raised by Edward III. But Boston declined through its river—the Witham—becoming scarcely navigable for more than small ships, and after a time was placed on the list of decayed seaports. At the present time it should be mentioned that its trade is steadily reviving.
The town has a quiet, old-fashioned aspect, and many of its houses date from the days when the Pilgrim Fathers made their first attempt to leave England. The very first effort failed, through the treachery of the captain of the vessel in which they were to take passage. They suffered a month's imprisonment, but shortly afterwards made another attempt to get away from the coast on a Dutch ship. This was only partially successful, for William Brewster and a few others only, reached Amsterdam, the women and the rest of the party having fallen into the hands of a detachment of soldiers. Brewster, however, by untiring efforts got all the rest over to Holland.
It was in 1620 that the Pilgrim Fathers finally set out on their voyage to America. (See Index, Plymouth.) The greatest glory of Boston is "The Stump," the highly unsuitable name given to its magnificent church tower, 300 feet high, and a landmark all over the surrounding fen-lands and even out at sea. It seems strangely slight when one is standing within the tower and notices that no floor breaks the great sweep of walls for a great height. The large perpendicular windows also help to give an impression of frailty. The foundation stone, however, was laid as long ago as 1309, and the structure is not so many years younger. |
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