(9) BLACK (1 lb.)

Mordant with Alum Acetate. Dye with 6 ozs. logwood, 3/4 oz. flavin, 1 oz. Iron. Mix all together and boil for 1/2 hour. Wash thoroughly.

(10) BLACK

(1) Mordant with basic ferric sulphate and after allowing the silk to lie for some time, wash well and soap at 90 deg.C.

(2) Dye with 50 per cent Fustic, 10 per cent Ferrous Sulphate and 2 per cent Copper Acetate.

(3) Dye with logwood 50 per cent and soap.

(11) GREY WITH BRACKEN (1 lb.)

Mordant with 1 oz. Iron and 2 ozs. Cream of Tartar. Boil a quantity of young bracken tips for 1/2 hour. Strain. Boil silk in the decoction for about an hour.

(12) BROWN WITH LICHEN (1 lb.)

Mordant with Alum Acetate. Put into the dye bath the quantity of lichen according to required colour with about a teaspoonful of Acetic Acid. Boil from 1 to 3 hours.

(13) ORANGE (1 lb.)

1 oz. tin, 1/2 oz. Oxalic Acid, 2 oz. Flavin. Enter silk and boil for 1 hour. Remove silk and add to the bath 1 oz. tin, 1 oz. Oxalic, 2 oz. Cochineal. Boil for 1 hour or more.

(14) BLACK (1 lb.)

Mordant with 2 oz. logwood extract, 1-1/4 oz. fustic extract, 1-1/4 oz. iron, 1/2 oz. copper sulphate. Boil for 1 hour. Take out and rinse. To the same bath add 1-3/4 oz. logwood extract, 1 oz. fustic extract, 7 oz. madder. Enter silk and boil for 1 hour. Wash in soap.

(15) YELLOW (1 lb.)

Mordant with 1 oz. Bichromate of Potash. Boil 1 hour. In a separate bath put 1 lb. weld and boil for 1 hour.

(16) RED (1 lb.)

Mordant with 1-3/4 oz. tin and 1-3/4 oz. oxalic acid. Boil for 1 hour. Then add 3/4 lb. cochineal and 6 oz. madder. Boil well and wash in soap.

(17) BROWN (1 lb.)

Mordant with 1 oz. Copper sulphate. Boil for 1 hour. Take out silk and add 2-1/2 oz. madder, 1 oz. fustic chips, and boil for 1 hour.

(18) RED (1 lb.)

Dissolve 1 oz. Tannic Acid in hot water. Enter silk and leave for 24 hours, stirring occasionally. Rinse well in two waters. In a fresh bath, put 4 oz. cochineal. Enter silk. Bring to boil and let blue colour develop. Lift, and add 1 oz. cochineal & 1 oz. tin. Re-enter silk & boil well. Wash in soap.



GLOSSARY

Adjective Dyes. Dyes which require mordant.

Alizarin. The chief colouring principle of madder. It is also the name for an extensive series of chemical colours produced from anthracene, one of the coal tar hydrocarbons discovered in 1868.

Aniline. Discovered 1826 (anil. Span. indigo). First prepared from indigo by means of caustic potash, found in coal, 1834. Manufactured on a large scale after Perkin's discovery of mauve in 1856.

Annatta. (Annotto, Arnotto, Roucou.) A dye obtained from the pulp surrounding the seeds of the Bixa orellana; chiefly used in dyeing silk an orange colour, but is of a fugitive nature.

Argol. The tartar deposited from wines completely fermented, and adhering to the sides of casks as a hard crust. When purified it becomes Cream of Tartar.

Beck. A large vessel or tub used in dyeing.

Bois jaune. Fustic, yellow wood.

Carthamus. Safflower, an annual plant cultivated in South Europe, Egypt and Asia, for the red dye from its flowers.

Caustic Soda. Carbonate of soda, boiled with lime.

Coal Tar Colours. Colours obtained by distillation and chemical treatment from coal tar, a product of coal during the making of gas. There are over 2,000 colours in use.

Detergent. A cleansing agent.

Dip. Generally applied to immersing cloth, etc., in the blue vat.

Divi-Divi. The dried pods of Caesalpina coriaria growing in the West Indies and S. America; they contain 20 to 35% tannin and a brown colouring matter.

Dyer's Spirit. Aqua fortis, 10 parts; sal ammoniac, 5 parts; tin, 2 parts; dissolved together.

Enter. To enter wool, to put it into the dye or mordant liquor.

Fenugrec. Fenugreek Trigonnella faenugraecum.

Flavin. A colouring matter extracted from Quercitron.

Full, to. To treat or beat cloth for the purpose of cleansing and thickening it.

Fuller's herb. Saponaria officinalis. A plant used in the process of fulling.

Fuller's Thistle, or teasle. Dipsacus fullonum. Used for fulling cloth.

Fustet. Young fustic. Venetian Sumach Rhus cotinus. It gives a fine orange colour, which has not much permanence.

Galls, Gall nuts. Oak galls produced by the egg of an insect,—the female gall wasp. An excrescence is produced round the egg, and the insect, when developed, pierces a hole and escapes. Those gall nuts which are not pierced contain most tannic acid. The best come from Aleppo and Turkey.

Gramme or Gram. About 15-1/2 grains (Troy).

Kilo. Kilogramme. Equals 2 lbs. 3.2 oz.

Litre. Nearly 1-3/4 pints.

Lixivitation. The process of separating a soluble substance from an insoluble by the percolation of water.

Lixivium. (Lye.) A term often used in old dye books, water impregnated with alkaline salts extracted by lixivitation from wood ashes.

Lye or Ley. Any strong alkaline solution, especially one used for the purpose of washing such as soda lye, soap lye.

Mercerised Cotton. Cotton prepared by treating with a solution of caustic potash or soda or certain other chemicals. Discovered by John Mercer in 1844.

Milling. The operation of fulling cloth.

Myrobalans. The fruit of several species of trees, growing in China and the East Indies, containing tannic acid (25-40% tannin).

Oil of Vitriol. Sulphuric acid.

Organzine. Twisted raw silk from best cocoons, used for warp.

Pearl Ash. Carbonate of potash.

Persian Berries. The dried unripe fruit of various species of Rhamnus. Also called French berries, grains of Avignon.

Potassium Carbonate. (Potashes.) Carbonate of potash has been known since ancient times as a constituent of the ashes of land plants, from which it is obtained by extraction with water. In most cases Sodium Carbonate, which it strongly resembles, can be used in its place.

Red spirits. Tin Spirits. Applied to tin mordants generally. A solution of Stannous chloride.

Red woods. Camwood, Barwood, Sanderswood (Santal, Sandal, Red Sanders), Brazil wood, Sapan wood, Peach-wood.

Roucou. Anatta, Arnotto.

Saxon blue. The dye made by indigo dissolved in oil of vitriol.

Scotch ell. 37.2 inches.

Scour, to. To wash.

Scroop. The rustling property of silk.

Soda ash. Carbonate of soda.

Sour water. To every gallon of water, add one gill vitriol; stir thoroughly. Stuff steeped in this should be covered with the liquor, otherwise it will rot.

(2) Water in which bran has been made to grow sour. 24 bushels of bran are put in a tub, about 10 hogsheads of nearly boiling water is poured into it; acid fermentation soon begins, and in 25 hours it is ready to use.

(3) Throw some handfuls of bran into hot water and let it stand for 24 hours, or until the water becomes sour, when it is fit for use.

Staple. A term applied to cotton and wool indicating length of fibre.

Substantive Dye. A dye not requiring a mordant.

Sumach. Leaves and twigs of several species of Rhus, containing tannic acid. It is sold in the form of crushed leaves or as a powder (15-20% tannin).

Tram. Slightly twisted raw silk, used for weft.

Tyrian purple. A purple colour obtained from certain shell fish, such as Buccinum and Purpura. It is mentioned by Pliny as being discovered in 1400 B.C. It was a lost art in the Middle Ages.

Valonia. Acorn cups of certain species of oak from South Europe, containing 25-35% of tannic acid.

Vegetable alkali. Potash.

Verdigris. Acetate of copper.

Wet out, to. To damp before putting the yarn or cloth into the dye.



BIBLIOGRAPHY

A profitable Boke. (On Dyeing.) Translated from the Dutch. 1583.

Bancroft, Edward. The Philosophy of Permanent Colours. 1794.

Berthollet. The Art of Dyeing. 1824.

Bird, F. J. The Dyer's Handbook. 1875.

Bolton, Clement. A Manual of Wool Dyeing. 1913.

Boulger, Professor G. S. The Uses of plants. 1889.

Brewster's Edinburgh Encyclopaedia. 1830. Dyeing.

Crook, W. Dyeing and Tissue Printing. 1882.

Darwin and Meldola. Woad. ("Nature," Nov. 12, 1896.)

Edge, Alfred. Some British Dye Lichens. (Journal of the Society of Dyers and Colourists. May, 1914.)

Edmonston, T. "On the Native Dyes of the Shetland Islands." (Transactions of Botanical Society of Edinburgh, Vol. 1, 1841.)

English Encyclopaedia. Dyeing. 1802.

Francheville. On Ancient and Modern Dyes, 1767. (Royal Academy of Sciences, Berlin.)

Haigh, James. The Dyer's Assistant. 1778.

Hellot, Macquer, M. le Pilleur D' Apligny. The Art of Dyeing Wool, Silk and Cotton. (Translated from the French, 1789. New Edition. 1901.)

Henslow. Professor G. Use of British plants.

Hiscock, Gardiner D. 20th Century book of Recipes, Formulas and Processes. 1907.

Hummel, J. J. The Dyeing of Textile Fabrics.

Hurst, Silk Dyeing and Printing. (Technological Handbook. 1892.)

Jarmain, George. On Wool Dyeing. 6 Lectures. 1876.

Knecht, Rawson and Lowenthal. A Manuel of Dyeing. 1893.

Lindsay, Dr. W. L. On the Dyeing Properties of Lichens. (Edinburgh New Philosophical Journal, 1855.)

Love, Thomas. The Practical Dyer and Scourer. 1854.

Mackay, Mrs. Anstruther. Simple Home Dyeing.

Milroy, R. P. Handbook for Dyeing for Woollen Homespun Workers. (Congested Districts Board for Ireland.)

Morris, William. "Of Dyeing as an Art." (Essays by Members of Arts and Crafts Exhibition Society, 1903.)

Morris, William. "The Lesser Arts of Life." (from Architecture, Industry and Wealth. 1902.)

Napier, James. A Manual of Dyeing Recipes. 1855.

Napier, James. A Manual of the Art of Dyeing. 1853.

Parnell's Applied Chemistry.—Article on Dyeing.

Plowright, Dr. British Dye Plants. (Journal of the Royal Horticultural Society, Vol. 26. 1901.)

Rawson, Gardiner and Laycock. A Dictionary of Dyes, Mordants. 1901.

Sansome. "Dyeing." 1888.

Sims, T. Dyeing and Bleaching. (British Manufacturing Industries. 1877.)

Smith, David. The Dyer's Instructor. 1847.

Smith. Practical Dyer's Guide. 1849.

Sowerby. English Botany.

Sowerby. Useful Plants of Great Britain.

The Art of Dyeing. (Translated from the German. 1705. Reprint, 1913.)

The Dyer and Colour Maker's Companion. 1859.

Thomson, John M. The Practical Dyer's Assistant. 1849.



INDEX

Acacia, 40

Acetate of Alumina, 46, 56

Adjective dyes, 6, 60

Agrimony, 12

Alder, 11, 14, 15, 40

Alizarin, 60

Alkanet, 12

Alpaca, 1

Alum, 7, for silk, 56, cotton, linen, 46

Ammonia, 2, 3, 32

Aniline, 60

Annotto, Anatta, Annatta, Arnotto, 4, 50, 60

Arcel, 21

Archil, 19

Argol, 60

Areca, 40

Ash, 12

Barberry, 12, for cotton, 4, for silk, 38

Barwood, 34, 62

Bearberry, 12

Beck, 60

Bedstraw, 11

Bichromate of Potash, 9

Birch, 11, 12, 14

Black, 29, 40-42 dyeing plants, 15 for cotton, linen, 51 for silk, 58, 59 from alder, 40 from walnut, 41 with logwood, 29

Blackberry, 15

Blaeberry, 12, 14

Blue, 24-30 dyeing plants, 12 from lichen, 21 " logwood, 29 " whortleberry, 12

Blue vitriol, 10

Bluestone, 10

Bog asphodel, 12

Bog myrtle, 12

Bois de Campeche, 28

Bois jaune, 60

Bracken, 12

Bran, 33, 57

Bramble, 12

Brazil woods, 34

Broom, 12

Brown, 40-42 dyeing plants, 14 for cotton, 50 for wool from catechu, 40 from alder bark, 40 " crotal, 19 " Iceland moss, 22 " lichens, 22 " madder, 33, 42 " onion skins, 41 " peat soot, 41 " walnut, 41

Brownish red, 14, 34

Bryony, 14

Buckthorn, 12

Camel hair, 1

Camomile, 13

Campeachy wood, 28

Camwood, 34, 62

Carbonate of Potash, 62

Carbonate of Soda, 60

Carthamus, 60

Catechu, 40 for cotton, 46, 47, 50

Caustic potash, 28

Caustic soda, 25-28, 60

Centaury, 13

Chestnut, 47

Chrome, 9, 47, 56

Coal Tar Colours, 60

Coccus, 31, 32

Cochineal, 31

Copper, 10, 47

Copperas, 8, 9

Copper Sulphate, 10

Corydal, 13

Cotton, 4, 46-55 mordanting, 46 the colour of, 4

Crab Apple, 12

Cream of Tartar, 7, 10

Crimson—from cochineal, 32 from lichens, 17, 21

Crottle, Crotal, 16, 17, 19, 20, 21, 23

Cudbear, 16, 20

Cutch, 40

Damson, 14

Danewort, 14

Dandelion, 14

Deadly nightshade, 14

Detergent, 60

Devil's Bit, 12

Dip, 60

Divi-divi, 47, 60

Dock, 12, 15

Dog's Mercury, 12

Dulse, 14

Dyer's Broom, 38

Dyer's Greenwood, 12

Dyer's Spirit, 60

Dyer's Woodruff, 12

Elder, 12, 14, 15

Felting, to prevent, 3

Fenugrec, Fenugreek, 13, 60

Ferrous sulphate, 8

Flavin, 38

Flax, 4

Fleece, various kinds of, 1

Flowering reed, 14

French brown, 42

Fuller's Herb, 61

Fuller's Thistle, 61

Fumitory, 13

Fustic, 36 for green, 44

Fustet, 61

Gall nuts, 47, 61

Gamboge from lichen, 22

Golden rod, 13

Golden yellow from weld, 25

Gorse, 12

Gramme, 61

Green, 43-45 black, 42 dyeing plants, 13 from Fustic, 44 " Quercitron, 44 " Weld, 44 with logwood, 29 " Indigo extract, 44, 45 " Indigo vat, 43 " Indigo Extract and weld, 44

Green Vitriol, 8

Greening weed, 43

Greenish brown, 42

Greenish black, 42

Grey, 30

Grey from Catechu, 40

Gromwell, 12

Hazel colour from Peatsoot, 41

Heath, 13

Heather, 11, 39

Hellebore, 13

Hematin Crystals, 42

Hogs, 2

Hop, 13, 14

Hornbeam, 13

Hydrochloric acid, 28

Hydrosulphite vat, 25-28

Iceland Moss, 18, 22

Indigo, 24

Indigo Extract, 25 for green, 44, 45

Indigo Vats, 25-28 for cotton, 48 for cotton (zinc-lime), 51 for green, 43, 44, 45 Improvement of, 27

Indigo White, 27

Indigotine, 27

Iris, 11, 12, 15

Iron, 8, 9 for cotton, 47 for silk, 56

Iron filings, 6

Kashmir wool, 1

Kermes, Kerms, 31

Kilo, 61

Korkalett, 17

Korkir, 20

Lady's Bedstraw, 11, 12

Lamb's fleece, 1

Larch, 14

Lavender, 29

Lemon yellow from fustic, 36 from lichen, 20

Lesser Dye, 29

Ley, 61

Lichen dyes, 14, 16-23 list etc., for dyeing, 20-22

Lilac with cochineal, 32

Lily of the Valley, 14

Lima wood, 34

Lime, 52

Linen, 4, 5

Ling, 13

Litre, 61

Lixivitation, 61

Lixivium, 61

Logwood, 20, 28-30

Lucerne, 13

Madder, 12, 32, 42

Marsh Marigold, 13

Meadow Rue, 13

Meadowsweet, 15

Mercerised cotton, 61

Milling, 61

Mimosa, 40

Mohair, 1

Mordants, 8-10 for silk, 56 for linen and cotton, 46

Muriate of Tin, 9

Myrobalans, 47, 61

Nettle, 13, 14

Oak, 14, 15

Oak bark, 41

Oak galls, 47

Oak lung, 23

Oak rag, 23

Oil of vitriol, 24, 61

Old gold from fustic, 36 from weld, 35

Old fustic, 36

Olive from fustic, 36, 37 from weld, 35

Olive green, 43

Onion skins, 14, 39, 41

Orange from annatta, 50 from flavin, 38 from lichen, 21, 22

Orange from weld, 36 from turmeric, 37

Orchil, 16, 18

Organzine, 61

Orseille d'Auvergne, 20

Oxalic acid, 9

Peach wood, 34

Pear, 13

Pearl ash, 25, 61

Peat soot, 41

Persian berries, 42, 61

Pink from lichen, 20

Plum, 13

Plum colour from lichen, 17

Polygonum, 13

Poplar, 13

Potash, 62

Potassium Carbonate, 62

Potassium dichromate, 9

Potentil, 12, 13

Privet, 12, 13, 14, 39

Purple, from cochineal, 32, 33 from lichen, 18, 20, 21 from logwood, 30 from whortleberry 14

Purple dyeing plants, 14

Purplish slate, 32 from Brazil woods, 34 from cochineal, 32

Quercitron, 37 for cotton and linen, 48 for green, 44

Ragweed, 13

Raven grey, 30

Red, 31-34 from Brazil woods, 34 from lichens, 20-23 from madder, 33 for cotton, 49, 50

Red brown, 34 from alder, 40 from lichen, 20 from madder, 34

Red currant, 14

Red dyeing plants, 11

Red purple with cudbear and logwood, 20 with logwood, 30

Red woods, 34

Retting, 4

Rose red, 33

Roucou, 60, 62

Saddening, 10, 40, 41, 47

Saffron from lichen, 23

Safflower, 4

Sanderswood, 34

Sandalwood, 34

Sapan wood, 34

Sawwort, 13

Saxon blue, 44, 62

Saxon green, 43

Scarlet (cochineal), 32

Scarlet of grain, 32

Scotch ell, 62

Scouring agents, 2-3

Scroop, 62

Scrottyie, 17, 21

Sheep, various kinds of, 1-2

Silk, mordants, 56 the dyeing of, 57 preparation of, 3, 56 various kinds, of 3

Slate purple, 32

Sloe, 12

Soap for scouring, 2

Soda, 2

Soda ash, 62

Sodium carbonate, 62

Sour water, 62

Sorrel, 11

Spanish wool, 1

Spindle tree, 13

Stachys, 13

Staple, 62

St. John's wort, 13

Stannous chloride, 9

Substantive dye, 6, 11, 18, 37, 62

Sulphuric acid, 24

Sumach, 7, 40, 48, 62

Sundew, 13, 14

Sweet willow, 13

Tan, 42

Tan colour fr. lichen, 19

Tannin, 47

Tannic acid, 47

Teasel, 13

Terra cotta (lichen), 19

Tin, 9, 47, 56

Tin crystals, 9

Tin salts, 9

Tousch, 22

Tram, 62

Trefoil, 13

Turkey red oil, 49

Turmeric, 37

Tyrian purple, 62

Valonia, 47, 63

Vegetable alkali, 63

Verdigris, 11, 63

Vetch, 13

Vicuna, 1

Violet from elder, 14

Walnut, 11, 14, 40

Water, 2

Water lily, 14

Wayfaring tree, 13

Weld, 13, 35 with copper, 35 for green, 44

Wet out, to, 63

Wethers, 2

Whortleberry, 12, 14

Willow, 13

Woad, 12, 25

Wool, 1-3 colour of, 1 method of dyeing, 3 to wash, 2 various kinds of, 1, 2

Yellow, 35-39 for cotton (weld), 50 for linen (lichen), 19 for silk, 57 from weld, 35 dyer's broom, 38 fustic, 37 heather, 39 lichen, 19, 22, 23 privet, 39 quercitron, 38 sumach, 41

Yellow brown from lichen, 16 from sumach, 41

Yellow dyeing plants, 12-13

Yellow green, 43

Yellow weed, 43



* * * * *



Transcriber's Notes

Original spelling, capitalization, hyphenation, and punctuation have been retained from the original book except for the following changes:

Page 3: Repeated "in" deleted. (3rd.—The wool is boiled with the mordant and dye in the same bath together.)

Page 18: Added closing quote to blockquote (luster to the colours.")

Page 25: Changed comma to period after ozs. (12 fluid ozs. of water)

Page 34: The period was removed after 28 per cent for consistency.

Page 34: The typographical error "w ash" was changed to "wash."

Page 50: Under (5) YELLOW: "described for silk (page 73)", the reference to page 73 could possibly be referring to page 56, mordanting silk in general, or to page 57, where mordanting of yellow is detailed.

Page 65: (Index): Crottle, Crotal: The duplicate page 20 was removed.

Page 66: (Index): Lixiviation was changed to Lixivitation.

Page 68: Color was changed to colour (Tan colour fr. lichen) for consistency.

A space has been added before each lb. and oz. and the space removed between deg. and F. or C. for consistency.

THE END