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Lasserre has one source only, slightly bitter and inodorous, containing sulphate of magnesia, which renders its action laxative. It is useful in cases of obesity, liver affections, and others of that type.
For the other establishments and springs, which have likewise their special uses, the reader is referred to the 'Guide to Bigorre,' and Joanne's Guide-book to the Pyrenees.
Hotels.—Beau Sejour; Paris; De Londres et d'Angleterre; Du bon Pasteur; Frascati; &c. &c.
Banker and Money Changer.—D. Ortalis, 16 Place Lafayette.
Doctors.—(In summer only) Dr. Bagnall from Pau, Promenade St. Martin. Dr. Couzier, 27 Rue du Theatre (all the year). Dr. Dejeau, 30 Allee de Coustous (ditto).
Chemists.—M. Nogues, Place Lafayette; and M. Jouaneton, 22 Place de Strasbourg.
Restaurant.—M. Vignes, Place Lafayette.
Nurses.—Les Soeurs de l'Esperance, 9 Avenue de Salut.
Draper.—Cornet, Allee des Constons, No. 22.
Grocer (selling English goods of all kinds).—M. Peltier, 5 Boulevard du College.
Confectioners.—Mdme. Cheval, Rue du Centre, 19. M. Toujas, No. 10 same street.
Carriages.—Courtade, Place des Pyrenees, No. 14; Pourponnet, 3 Rue Labrun.
Horses.—Bourdettes, 25 Place Lafayette.
There is service all the year in the small English Church, and the present chaplain, the Rev. J. Grundy, M.A. Oxon., is always willing to assist visitors in any way, and glad to accept the offer of their services in the choir.
The cost of living in the winter averages 10 frs. in the best hotels, and between 7 and 9 in others; but the prices rise considerably in summer.
Post and Telegraph Office, Theatre, Casino, Museum and Reading-rooms in the town.
Guides.—Fages, senior and junior, 8 Rue de Lorry; Idrac, Rue Longue; Arnaune, Rue de Lorry.
Principal Excursions:—[Footnote: For full particulars of these and all excursions, the reader is referred to P. Joanne's 'Pyrenees'; Mr. Packe's 'Guide to the Pyrenees for Mountaineers'; and Count Russell's 'Grandes Ascensions des Pyrenees' (French and English).] To Aste, Gerde, Lourdes, Campan, Baudean, Ste. Marie, the Col d'Aspin, and up the Bedat and the Monne. Refer to Chapter II, for information.
Caesar's Camp, 2 hrs. there and back, by the village of Pouzac.
Les Allees dramatiques, 2 hrs. there and back, riding—3 hrs. on foot; between the Bedat and the Monne, a pretty walk.
The Slate Quarries and Spring of Labassere, 6 hrs. there and back; 1-1/4 hrs. to Labassere; 2 hrs. to the Quarries; 3 hrs. to the Spring. Guide 6 frs.; horses 10 frs. each.
The Mont-Aigu, 10 hrs. there and back, guide 15 frs. The view from the summit is immense; it extends over three valleys.
The Vallee de Lesponne and the "Lac bleu," 9 hrs. there and back. Carriage-road to the end of valley; mulepath the remainder of the way. Guide 8 frs., horse 10 frs.
Gripp (10 miles). Carriage-road all the way. Same road as far as Ste. Marie as that to Col d'Aspin.
Pic du Midi de Bigorre, 6 hrs. 45 min. to the summit; Guide 6 frs., horse 10 frs. A magnificent excursion, but easier from Bareges.
Pene de l'Heris, 2 hrs. 45 min. to summit. A pleasant excursion.
Houn Blanquo, 9 hrs. there and back. Guide 8 frs., horse 10 frs. A splendid mountain panorama in view, from the summit.
Puits de la Pindorle [Footnote: See footnote p. 226.]—a natural ice-cave, spoken of by Mr. Packe as "unique in its kind in the Pyrenees"—8 hrs. there and back. Guide and ropes necessary.
BAGNERES DE LUCHON (2065 ft.).—A lovely town in the Western Pyrenees (Hautes), situated near the junction of the Pique with the One, at the mouth of the Larboust valley, and in the western angle of the valley of Luchon.
The most fashionable of all the Pyrenean watering-places.
Season.—1st of June to the end of October; but most charming in May and early June.
The Bathing Establishment is a very ponderous building, containing accommodation second to none. The springs are nearly all naturally heated, varying from 103 deg. to 150 deg. Fahr.; they may be divided into four classes: 1st, sodium sulphate; 2nd, saline; 3rd, bicarbonate of iron; 4th, saline, but cold. The sulphur springs are considered the best and most complete series known; and the iron are principally used for drinking purposes. The waters of Luchon are considered specially beneficial for chronic bronchitis, rheumatism (articular and muscular), vesical catarrh, reopened wounds, fractures, scrofulous and cutaneous affections, and ulcers. In cases where there are complications, nervous excitement, or paralysis, a medical man should always be consulted before venturing to bathe.
There is an iron spring near the Castelvieil, 1-1/2 miles from Luchon.
In the "Etablissement Thermal" the terms range from 60 cents to 4 frs. There are baths of all kinds, and it is advisable, if the bather wishes to bathe at any special time, that he should enter his name in the book kept for that purpose, as soon as he arrives. In the season there is always a great pressure of visitors, and otherwise the bather may have to wait an hour or two for his turn. There was once a Museum above the baths, this has now been removed to the splendid Casino which stands in beautiful grounds, not far from the Post and Telegraph Office—entrance I franc.
Hotels. Canton, Richelieu (very large but not recommended), Grand, Bonnemaison, Paris, d'Angleterre, d'Etigny, de France, des Bains, Monteil, du Parc, de la Paix.
Apartments.—Of all descriptions, in the Allee des Bains, Rue Neuve, Cours d'Etigny, Allee des Veuves, &c. &c.
Doctors.—Several, both attached to the baths and independent.
Carriage and Horse Proprietors.—Almost innumerable, but Jean Sanson is recommended, Rue d'Espagne.
Guides.—For the summits (French): Pierre Barrau, Rue de Pigue, Aurillon, Lafon fils, Capdeville senior and junior, Fermin Barrau. (Spanish) Francisco. For ordinary excursions and hunting: Jean and Luis Sanson; Jean Brunet, chamois-hunter (recommended for all ascensions from the Lac d'O).
Tariff for drinking the waters only.—During season, 8 days, 4 frs.; 20 days, 8 frs.; 30 days, 10 frs.
Carriage on Hire (from the stand).—The "course," 1 franc; the hour, 3 frs. for one horse; and 1 fr. 30 cents, and 3 frs. 75 cents respectively, for two horses—by day. By night, for one horse, 2 frs. 50 cents the "course," and 4 frs. the hour; for two horses, 3 frs. 25 cents and 5 frs. respectively.
For all excursions there is a recognised tariff, which may be seen at the Mairie; and an excellent local guide-book and map is published for 2 frs. by Lafont.
The Chief Excursions:—
For Superbagneres (horses and guide 5 frs. each respectively, hay on the summit 1 fr. out of the season, but 2 frs. more each person in the season), Vallee du Lys (20 to 25 frs. for a landau), Bosost (carriage via St. Beat, 45 frs., horses via the Portillon 5 frs. each, guide 6 frs.), Montauban (an easy walk), the Orphanage of Notre Dame du Rocher (a short and pleasant walk), St. Mamet (little more than 1/2 mile), the Rue d'Enfer (an easy climb from the Vallee du Lys), the Tour de Castelvieil (about two miles from Luchon), &c. &c. Refer to Chapter X.
The Val d'Esquierry (4839 ft.), 11 miles.—Carriage-road as far as Grange d'Astos (25 to 30 frs.) very rich in flora.
To the Hospice de Prance and the Cascades—des Demoiselles, et du Parisien, 9 1/4 miles. Carriage-road all the way. Landau, 25 frs.; but 4 frs. per seat in the Hospice diligence there and back.
To the Port de Venasque and the Pic de Sauvegarde, returning by the Port de la Picade; 10 miles to the Port de Venasque—1 hour further to the summit of the Pic de Sauvegarde; 11 miles from the Port de la Picade to Luchon. Time, 10 to 11 hours there and back; but this fine excursion is rendered more enjoyable by sleeping at the Hospice (vide above), and starting early next day for the summits.
The Valley Of Oueil and the village of Bourg (9 1/3 miles). Carriage there and back, 30 frs. From Bourg the Pic de Montne can be ascended. Splendid sunrise view from summit. Guide recommended if ascension is made by night; horses 7 frs., guides 10 frs.; or by day 7 frs.
Lac d'Oo (10 miles).—Carriage-road for 8 miles. Landau, 25 frs. This lake, also called Seculejo, is full of salmon-trout, and there is a very fine cascade (820 ft.) on the far side, to which visitors can be ferried. Fare for one person 1 1/4 frs.—for more, an arrangement can be made. There is a small toll levied on every person who visits this lake—no matter whether they patronise the little inn or not!
Saint Beat.—By carriage 25 frs., or by rail to Marignac and diligence afterwards (12 1/2 miles). Refer to Chapter XI.
L'Antenac.—6 1/2 hours to the summit and back. Horse and guide each 6 frs. An enjoyable excursion; and the whole distance can be ridden.
Pic Spijoles.—4 1/2 hours from the Lac d'Oo—a difficult ascension.
Pic de Crabioules.—13 hours up and down. Guide necessary. Splendid view.
Pic Quairat.—5 hours from the Lac d'Oo. Guide necessary.
Le Cecire.—8 hours up and down. Guide and horses 6 frs. each.
Pic Sacroux,—8 1/2 hours to the summit and back. Very fine view.
The Peaks Bacanere and the Pales de Burat (11 3/4 miles).—9 hours there and back. Horses and guides from 5 to 8 frs. each, according to season. One of the most charming of all the excursions from Luchon.
L'Entecade.—7 hours in all. Guides and horses 6 frs. each. A much-regimented climb. Splendid view from summit.
Pic de Poujastou.—8-1/2 hours in all. Guides and horses 6 frs. each; an easy climb.
The Mont Maudits or Maladetta Group, the highest in the range, including the Pic de Nethou (11,169 ft.), Pic 'du Milieu (11,044 ft.), Pic de la Maladetta (10,867 ft.), Pic d'Albe (10,761 ft.), and the Pic Fourcanade (9456 ft.), are so difficult and perilous, and require such excellent guides, that the reader is referred for information to Mr. Packe's and Count Russell's books, previously mentioned.
Note.—Carriages from Bigorre to Luchon, 43-1/2 miles, via Arreau, 80 to 100 frs., 5 to 10 frs. pourboire, out of the season; 100 to 130 frs., and pourboire 10 frs., in the season.
BAREGES (4084 ft.), situated in a barren rocky gorge above Luz, in the Hautes-Pyrenees. It may be called the "Old Soldier's Resort," as the waters are specially efficacious for gunshot wounds.
The fine Bathing Establishment contains 30 separate bath-rooms, besides 3 douche-rooms, a spray-room, foot bath-room, &c. The springs vary in heat from 71 deg. to 112 deg. Fahr., and are of a similar nature, all containing large proportions of sulphur and baregine. Dr. Lee says, "The water when drunk has a diuretic, diaphoretic, and expectorant action; the bath, by its general and local stimulating properties, cleanses foul ulcers,... promotes the exfoliation of carious portions of bone and subsequent cicatrisation, and frequently causes foreign bodies which have been long imbedded ... to make their way to the surface." It is also highly beneficial for old bullet-wounds, neuralgic affections, rheumatic pains, and stiff joints.
Hotels.—Del'Europe, De France, Des Pyrenees, Richelieu. Board and lodging from 10 to 15 frs. per day in the season (15th of June to September). No hotels open in winter, as the village is covered with snow.
The Climate even in summer is variable—great heat is frequently followed by great cold, necessitating the wearing of woollen under-clothing, which should always be taken.
Bathing Tariff, &c.—Baths and douches from I fr. to 2 frs. 50 cents. For each visit to the drinking-room 5 cents; subscription for one month, 10 frs.
Apartments.—One room, from 2 frs. 50 cents to 6 frs. per day, according to position and size.
Doctors at the Establishment, a few independent, and others from Luz.
Post and Telegraph Office in the season.
Carriages, Horses, and Asses in abundance; apply at the hotels.
Guides.—Of the 1st class: Bastien, Teinturier, Michael Pontis, Menvielle, &c. &c. for the lofty peaks; several of the 2nd class for minor excursions.
Chief Excursions::—
For the Promenade Horizontale and the Vallee de Lienz, refer to Chapter VI.
Pic de Nere.—6 hrs. there and back. Beware of vipers.
Pic du Midi de Bigorre.—8 hrs. up and down. Guide and horses, 5 frs. each. The favourite excursion in the vicinity, and one of the finest in the Pyrenees. The panorama which is annexed is on a fine day truly magnificent. Horses can be taken to the summit, where there is an excellent inn.
Lacs d'Escoubous.—2 hrs. to the Lac d'Escoubous; 2 hrs. 30 min. to the Lac Blanc; 2 hrs. return. Guide 4 to 6 frs., horses ditto.
Pic d'Ayre.—6 to 7 hrs. up and down. Horses can be taken within 1/2 hr. of summit. Guide 6 frs., horses ditto.
Pic de Lienz.—5 hrs. up and down. A pleasant climb. See Chapter VI.
Le Neouville.—12 hrs. by the Col d'Aure, there and back. Guide necessary—10 frs. Splendid view over all the higher Pyrenees.
BAUDEAN.—A village in the Campan valley on the Route Thermale, between Bigorre and Luchon, in the Hautes-Pyrenees.
BAYONNE.—City and first-class fortress in the Basses-Pyrenees, on the Adour and the Nive, standing some 2 miles from the shores of the terrible Biscay Bay. On the direct line from Bordeaux to Biarritz and Spain.
Hotels.—St. Etienne, Du Commerce, Ambassadeurs, St. Martin, De la Bilbaina, De la Guipuzcoaena, and Du Panier fleuri. Rail to Negresse station for Biarritz; also narrow-gauge railway to Biarritz via Anglet.
Splendid twin-towered cathedral, ancient fortifications, &c. Excellent market and good shops, which are more reasonable than at Biarritz.
Post and Telegraph Office, English Vice-Consulate, &c.
Cabs.—The course 1 fr., the hour 2 frs. 25 cents and 50 cents extra respectively for 2 horses.
Chocolate.—Fagalde.
Excursions to Cambo (10 miles), Croix de Mouguere, Lc., see Chapter XIII.
BEHOBIE.—A village in the Basses-Pyrenees, on the direct road to Spain, 14-1/4 miles from Biarritz.
BETHARRAM.—A pleasantly-situated village in the Basses-Pyrenees, once a favourite pilgrimage. There is a lovely bridge in the vicinity, and the Via Crucis just midway between the village and the bridge. It is situated on the direct road from Pau to Lourdes, and is 15 miles distant from the former, and 9-1/4 from the latter. The station on the railway, "Montaut-Betharram," is about 2 miles from the village.
Inns.—De la Poste, De France. Celebrated grotto in the vicinity.
BIARRITZ, a favourite English winter resort on the shores of the Biscay, in the Basses-Pyrenees—2 miles from the Negresse station on the direct line to Spain, and 130 miles from Bordeaux. Living during the winter is considerably cheaper than at Pau, but the winds are much stronger and the air more bracing. Biarritz makes a valuable change from both Pau and Arcachon. It is free from epidemics, and beneficial in cases of paralysis, as well as chest and heart complaints.
Hotels. De Paris et de Londres, Il Grand Hotel, D'Angleterre (the favourite hotel with English people), Des Ambassadeurs, De France, Il Des Princes, De l'Europe, De la Poste, &c.
Apartments. All over the town, varying in price according to position. Maison Brocq, Maison Larrode, Maison Broquedis.
English Pension. Villa du Midi, Rue des Champs.
Doctors. Dr. Welby, Rue Gambetta. Dr. Malpas; Dr. Girdlestone.
Carriages. Mauemus, Place St. Eugenie. Larrondat, Place de la Marie.
Libraries.—One in connection with the English Church. Lending library at Victor Benquet's, Place de la Marie (stationer, Lc.).
Confectioners. Figue, Rue Mazagran; Miremont. Place de la Marie.
Photographer.—P. Frois, Rue du Port Vieux.
Banker.—E. H. Bellairs, Esq. (Vice Consul), International Bank.
"Depot Anglais," for wines, groceries, and English provisions, &c.
English Club, Post and Telegraph Office.
For principal excursions refer to Chapter XIII.
BIDART.—The first Basque village, 3 miles from Biarritz on the direct route to Spain—railway station, Bidart-Guetary.
BIELLE.—A village in the Basses-Pyrenees, on the road to Eaux Bonnes, in the Val d'Ossau, 18-1/4 miles from Pau. Inn, des Voyageurs.
BILHERES.—A village on the slopes of the Val d'Ossau, above Bielle, in the Basses-Pyrenees—celebrated for the copper mines in the vicinity. It lies in the direct track from the Val d'Ossau to the Vallee d'Aspe.
BlLLERES.—A small village near Pau, in the Basses-Pyrenees on the road to the ancient town of Lescar: the locally well-known "Bois de Billeres" take their name from it.
BIZANOS.—A village below Pau, on the Gave, in the Basses-Pyrenees, on the direct road to Lourdes.
BOO-SILHEN.—A village and railway station on the line from Lourdes to Pierrefitte, in the Hautes-Pyrenees. There is the site of an ancient camp in the vicinity.
BOSOST.—A village in Spain (18 miles from Luchon by the Portillon), under the shadow of the Eastern Pyrenees, in the valley of Aran. This is a most pleasing excursion from Luchon, either on horseback via the Portillon, or in a carriage via St. Beat. See Chapter X. Inn, Fonda d'Espana.
CAMBO.—A small picturesquely-situated bathing resort on the banks of the Nive, 10 miles from Bayonne, in the Basses-Pyrenees. A favourite excursion from Biarritz, with the extra attraction of good fishing.
Bathing Establishment, with a hot sulphur and cold ferruginous spring. The former has proved useful for its diuretic and laxative qualities, and efficacious in cases of languor following long illnesses: the latter is very rich in iron, and a useful tonic.
The Climate is exceedingly healthy in spring and autumn, but too warm in summer.
Hotel.—St. Martin.
Chocolate Manufactory.—Monsieur Fagalde's.
Doctor.—M. Albert Dotezac.
Carriages, Horses, and Asses, at various rates.
CAMPAN (2192 ft.)—A village in the Hautes-Pyrenees (3-3/4 miles from Bigorre) situated in the valley of the same name—on the direct road from Bigorre to Luchon; possesses an ancient church and market-place.
CAPVERN.—A bathing resort in the Hautes-Pyrenees, built on a hill two miles distant from the bathing establishments, which are erected in a narrow ravine. One of the stations on the main line between Toulouse and Pau, being 78 miles distant from the former and 56 from the latter. The climate is mild, and the season lasts from the 15th of May to the 1st of November.
Two Bathing Establishments—De Hount-Caoudo and de Bouride. The water principally contains sulphate of lime with a small proportion of carbonate of iron: its action is diuretic and laxative. It is an excellent and bracing tonic, stimulating to the digestion, and has also been beneficially employed in cases of catarrh and certain liver complaints. The Hount-Caoudo spring has an exciting tendency; that of Bouride a sedative one.
Hotels.—Grand, Beau Sejour, De Fontaine, De la Paix, Des Bains, etc.
Post and Telegraph Office in the season. CASTETS.—A small picturesquely-situated village in the Hautes-Pyrenees—off the high road between Pau and Eaux Bonnes—under a mile from Louvie Juzon. Lodging can be obtained at M. Fouga's.
CAUTERETS (3254 ft.)—A town situated in the gorge of the same name in the Hautes-Pyrenees, seven miles distant from Pierrefitte, the terminus of the line from Lourdes. It is said to be the most rich in mineral waters of any resort in the Pyrenees. From its position in a hollow, surrounded by lofty and beautiful mountains, it is frequently visited with a good deal of rain, and the climate is subject to severe changes in temperature, especially in spring, when the mornings and nights are cold. The season proper begins about the middle of June and lasts to the 15th of September. Living out of the season averages about 10 frs. per diem, but is much greater when once July has arrived, and consequently it is always best to write and make terms beforehand.
There are Nine Establishments for the Waters, among which twenty-four springs are divided. The springs may be classed under two heads—firstly, sodium sulphate; 2ndly, saline—both naturally heated.
The three most important establishments are—Les Oeufs, La Raillere, and Les Thermes de Vieux Cesar. The others are—Le Rocher-Rieumiset, Manhourat et Les Yeux, Pauze Vieux, Pauze Nouveaux, Petit St. Sauveur, and Le Pre; in addition to which there are two "buvettes," known as Buvette de Cesar and Le Bois. The waters at the Cesar Vieux are the most exciting of all, and prove beneficial in scrofulous and cutaneous affections, rheumatism, and tumours. Les Oeufs are specially efficacious in lung complaints; La Raillere is used successfully in affections of the respiratory passages; Mauhourat is specially recommended to aid the digestion of La Raillere's water; while Les Yeux are beneficial for affections of the eyes—as the name suggests. Le Petit St. Sauveur is efficacious in cases of hysteria and similar complaints.
Hotels. Du Parc, Continental, De France, Richelieu, Des Promenades, Des Boulevards, De la Paix, De Londres, Des Bains, D'Angleterre, etc.
Apartments to be found in all parts. The price of a single-bedded room varies from 3 to 10 frs. in the season. Much less at other times.
Doctors, in connection with the "Thermes," and many independent ones.
Chemists.—J. Latapie and M. Broca—both in the Place St. Martin.
Confectioners.—Patisserie Suisse, Rue Cesar; Patisserie Pyreneenne, Rue de la Raillere.
Horses and Carriages in plenty—good steeds at Dominique's, Rue de la Raillere.
Guides.—Sarrettes, Clement Latour, Latapie, Barraga, Bordenare; and also Berret, Lac Dominique, and Pont Dominique.
Post and Telegraph Office, Theatre, Casino, &c. Tariff for bathing, &c., similar to other resorts.
Horses for Excursions cost about 12 frs. for the day, for an ordinary trip 6 frs.; and for a few hours' ride 4 to 5 frs., with 50 cents to the ostler.
Carriage from Argeles, 20 frs. with luggage; pourboire 3 frs.
The Chief Excursions are:—
To the Col de Riou.—Splendid view. Guide 6 frs., horses 6 frs. Can be prolonged down the opposite side to St. Sauveur.
To the Cascade de Cerizey, Pont d'Espagne, and Lac de Gaube.—Guides each 8 frs., horses 6 frs. The favourite trip.
Le Cabaliros.—6 hrs. up and down. Guide 10 frs., horses 10 frs.
Le Monne.—7 hrs. up and down. Horses and guide 10 frs. each, donkey 8 frs. Splendid view.
Pic d'Enfer.—8-1/2 hrs. and 12 hrs. respectively by the two routes. Good guides necessary—a difficult climb.
For the Vallee de Lutour refer to Chapter V. Pic d'Ardiden.—9 hrs. Guide essential—an interesting climb.
Pic de Vignemale,—18 to 20 hrs. not including rests. Guides, hatchets, and ropes necessary. Magnificent view from summit, but a very difficult trip.
CIER-de-Luchon.—A small village in the Haute Garonne, 4-1/2 miles from Luchon on the railway from thence to Montrejeau. CIERP.—A small village at the foot of a rock in the Pique valley—dep. Haute-Garonne—near Marignac, station for St. Beat on the line between Luchon and Montrejeau. COARBAZE.—A village in the Basses-Pyrenees on the road between Pau and Lourdes. Railway station on line connecting the above places; 10-1/2 miles from Pau. The ruins of a castle in the neighbourhood, in which Henry IV. spent his childhood. Refer to Chapter I. DAX.—A town on the Adour, and junction for Bordeaux from the Bayonne and Pau lines. Celebrated for its baths, which are of three kinds, steam, mud, and water. There are several bathing establishments, but the Grand Etablissement is the best, where board and lodging can be also obtained, at an all-round figure, including baths, of from 10 to 15 frs. per diem. These baths are very useful for affections of the larynx, articular enlargements, and most kinds of rheumatism and neuralgia. When drunk the water has a tonic and diuretic effect.
Hotels.—De la Paix, Du Nord, De France, Figaro, De l'Europe.
There are enjoyable walks about the town and some old ruins; and in the vicinity a bed of fossil salt.
EAUX BONNES is a miniature Spa hemmed in by the sides of a wooded gorge in the Basses-Pyrenees—27-1/2 miles from Pau and 6-1/4 from Eaux Chaudes; railway communication as far as Laruns ought now to be established: refer to Chapter XII. The waters, hot and cold, consist of five springs, sulphuret of sodium being largely present in all, and sulphate of lime in a less degree. There are two establishments —the Grand and the Ortech; but the former is far the most commodious, though the water is used for drinking purposes almost more than for bathing. The temperature varies in the different springs from 54 deg. to 88 deg. Fahr. The waters are specially recommended in cases of pulmonary consumption and affections of the air passages—also for chronic maladies of the abdominal viscera, intermittent fevers, hypochondria, and hysteria.
The Tariff is similar to that at the other Spas. Season, July and August.
The Climate is mild, but warm in summer.
Hotels. De France, Princes, Empereurs, Richelieu, Poste, Europe, Sallenave, Des Touristes, D'Espagne et d'Orient, De l'Univers, etc.
Apartments all over the town. The following are a few of the houses that let rooms:—Bonnecaze, Pomme, Berdou, Tourne. Living in hotels during the season costs from 10 to 20 frs., according to etage, per diem.
Chemists.—Cazaux fils, and Tourne.
Confectioners.—Patisserie Suisse.
Post and Telegraph Office.—The Route Thermale runs from Eaux Bonnes to Argeles, 26-1/2 miles: see Chapter XII.
Doctors in connection with the baths, and independent ones.
Horses and Carriages at the hotels, etc.
Guides.—Orteig, Lanusse, and Jean Pierre for lofty summits; also Maucor and Caillau, who, with Lanusse, are Horse proprietors as well. It is necessary to bargain about prices, as there is no fixed tariff, but 10 to 13 frs. per diem for ordinary trips ought to suffice, without providing food—with food, 3 or 4 frs. less.
The Chief Excursions are:—
For the Col de Gourzy and the Cascades du Valentin refer to Chapter XII.
Pic de Ger.—10 to 12 hours there and back. Guide 20 frs. and provisions necessary. Magnificent view.
Le Gabizos.—Whole day; provisions, liquor, and guide necessary. A tiring climb, but one of the finest views in the Pyrenees.
Pic de Goupey.—7 hours up and down; guide necessary.
Pic de St. Mont.—9 hours up and down, easy climb, guide not necessary.
Lacs d'Anglas et d'Uzious.—Guide and provisions necessary; a whole day; splendid excursion.
EAUX CHAUDES.—Another miniature Spa—less contracted in its position, but equally picturesquely situated in a wild gorge in the Basses-Pyrenees, 27-1/2 miles from Pau. The climate is bracing, but on account of the situation of the town it is not so good a residence for invalids with chest complaints as Eaux Bonnes—as the wind sweeps up the valley unchecked. It is, however, a glorious place for healthy people to stay in, and a good centre for excursions.
The Bathing Establishment is a fine building with good accommodation. There are seven important springs and two of less consequence; and they partake of the same nature as those of Eaux Bonnes, though the temperature extends about 10 deg. Fahr. higher. They are largely charged with sulphur and lime, in combination with carbon and soda, and have an exciting action. They are especially useful in cases of catarrh, rheumatism, cutaneous diseases, and neuralgia. The "buvettes" of Baudot and Minvielle are largely patronised.
Hotels. Baudot, De France; and more expensive accommodation at "L'Etablissement Thermal."
Prices are less than at Eaux Bonnes. In the season they range from 10 to 16 frs., but from 8 to 12 at other times, "En Pension."—For one day or less than a week no fixed price can be quoted.
Doctors.—One in connection with the establishment.
Horses and Carriages to be obtained at the hotels or from the guides, who are mostly horse proprietors.
Guides.—Camy, Labarthe, Larrouy, Eugene Olivan, Jean Sallenave. Tariff not fixed, but 7 to 9 frs. per diem without providing food is sufficient, and 5 to 8 frs. for horses—though this is only for ordinary excursions and not perilous ones.
Bathing Tariff.—Similar to that of other Spas.
Chief Excursions are:—
Goust.—1 hour there and back; mule track.
Grotte des Eaux Chaudes.—2 hours there and back—for lights and permit 1 fr. 50 c. each is charged, guide 2 frs.
Gabas and the Bious-Artigues.—See Chapter XII. Rather over 8 miles; carriage road to Gabas, fine and pleasant trip.
Baths of Panticosa.—13 to 15 hours by the mule track; a favourite way into Spain.
To Huesca by Sallent and Jaca, a very lengthy trip, requiring several days.
Pic Scarput.—10 hours up and down; a very fine climb.
Lac d'Artouste.—10 hours up and down; a viper region.
Pic d'Arriel.—10 hours up and down; an exceedingly fine view from summit, but not an easy climb.
Le Balaitous—14 hours. For ascension only, it is necessary to have good guides (at least two), as well as provisions, and to pass the night on the mountain in the Cabanes near the Lac d'Artouste. A difficult excursion, not unattended with considerable danger.
FONTARABIE (Fuenterabia, Sp.). A quaint old Spanish town on the left bank of the Bidassoa, just across the frontier, well worthy of a visit. About equidistant from the stations of Hendaye (Fr.) and Irun (Sp.) on the direct line from Bordeaux to Madrid. A pleasant excursion from Biarritz.
GABAS.—A village in the Basses-Pyrenees, 5 miles from Eaux Chaudes, near the famous plateau of the Bious-Artigues. Inn accommodation can be had, and it is a good starting-point for several excursions.
GAN.—A village in the Val d'Ossau in the Basses-Pyrenees, 5 miles from Pau. The road from Pau forks here, one branch leading to Oloron (15-1/2 miles), the other to Eaux Bonnes and Eaux Chaudes (22-1/2 miles). There are some mosaics under a shed in the vicinity. Hotel (such as it is), Des Voyageurs.
GAVARNIE (4380 ft.). An unpretentious village with good hotel accommodation, situated among some of the most magnificent scenery in the Hautes-Pyrenees, 13 miles from Luz. For full description of the Cirque of Gavarnie refer to Chapter VIII., also for the Falls of Marbore, 1380 ft.
Hotels. Des Voyageurs; De la Cascade.
There are several Mountains to be ascended in the neighbourhood requiring experienced guides; among which are Le Pimene, the Breche de Roland, Le Taillon, Le Gabietou, Le Marbore, Pic d'Astazou, and the Mont Perdu; but for further information the traveller is referred to the previously recommended authorities.
No Guides have a better reputation than those of Gavarnie, and of these Henri Passet and Celestin Passet have made all the great ascents of the French and Spanish Pyrenees; Pierre Pujo, Pierre Brioul, Poc, and Haurine are also men of experience in mountaineering.
Horses to the Cirque, 2 frs. each. Guides, 2 frs. each. Asses, 1 1/2 fr. each.
GAZOST-les-Bains.—A village in the Vallee du Nez, 7 1/3 miles from Lugagnan (the nearest station), on the line between Pierrefitte and Lourdes, in the Basses-Pyrenees. The baths, fed by four cold sulphurous springs, are less than 3/4 of a mile from the village, where there is a large sawmill. Very few people visit the baths, and they are in a miserable state. There are copper, zinc, and argentiferous lead mines in the neighbourhood.
Rooms at the Chalet de la Scieric.
GEDRE (3214 ft.).—A poor village in lovely scenery (see engraving, page 122), on the side of a rocky gorge in the Hautes-Pyrenees, 8 miles from Luz and 4 from Gavarnie, on the direct road between the two.
Hotels.—Des Voyageurs, Palasset.
For information on the so-called Grotte de Gedre see Chapter VIII. The two chief excursions from Gedre are those to the Vallee de Heas and the Cirque de Troumouse, though they may be considered as one trip here. From Gedre to the chapel of Heas 2 to 2 1/2 hours, from the chapel to the fork of the road 1/2 hour, and from thence to the Cirque 1 hour. This is a very fine excursion, occasionally undertaken from Luz and St. Sauveur.
GERDE.—A village in the Campan valley, in the Hautes-Pyrenees, near Bigorre. Known chiefly for the palomieres or pigeon traps among the trees above it. See Chapter II.
GRIPP (3448 ft.).—A well-situated village in the Hautes-Pyrenees, on the Route Thermale, between Bigorre and Bareges, 2 1/2 miles from Ste. Marie. Tourists often find the Hotel des Voyageurs comfortable enough to keep them there for a few days. A little beyond the village on the old road are the Baths of Bagnet, supplied by a cold sulphurous spring; they do not, however, call for much mention. The Falls of Garet are in the immediate vicinity.
GRUST.—A small village in the Hautes-Pyrenees. Refer to Sazos in Appendix.
GUETARY.—A Basque village in the Basses-Pyrenees, 3 miles from Biarritz. The railway station, Bidart-Guetary, on the line between Bordeaux and Madrid, is not far from the village.
HEAS.—A hamlet in the Hautes-Pyrenees, five miles from Gedre and eight from Gavarnie, by the Pimene.
Inn.—De la Munia, kept by Victor Chappelle, hunter; besides whom, Jacques Canton and Francois Lavignolle, chamois-hunters, are excellent guides. Chief excursion to the Cirque de Troumouse. See Gedre.
HENDAYE.—The French frontier town on the Bay of Biscay in the Basses-Pyrenees, known for the manufacture of a liqueur of the same name. French Custom-house; station on the line between Bordeaux and Madrid. Good beach and bathing. Boats can be hired to cross the Bidassoa to Fuenterabia, at about 2 frs. for 3 persons; for information concerning which see Chapter XIII.
Buffet at the station.
Money changed.
Hotels/.—De France, Du Commerce, Americani.
IRUN.—The Spanish frontier town and railway station on the direct line between Bordeaux and Spain. Spanish Customhouse.
Buffet at the station, also a money changer.
Hotels.—Echenique, De Arupe.
IZESTE.—A village in the Basses-Pyrenees, near Louvie-Juzon and Arudy, on the road between Eaux Bonnes and Oloron.
JACA.—A fortified town of Spain on the banks of the Aragon, 521/2 miles from Oloron, on the direct route to Huesca, from which it is 571/2 miles distant.
LABASSERE.—A village in the Hautes-Pyrenees, celebrated for its waters and slate quarries (refer to Bagneres de Bigorre). It is 11/2 hrs. distant from Bigorre; but its quarries take 1/2 hr. longer to reach, and the springs 1 hour after that. The celebrated water is bottled at the springs, but it is also sent in casks for use in Bagneres de Bigorre.
LAMOTHE.—A small village in the Landes, 25 miles from Bordeaux. Junction for Arcachon, 10 miles distant.
LARUNS.—An important though tumble-down village in the Val d'Ossau, in the Basses-Pyrenees, 31/4 miles from Eaux Bonnes and the same from Eaux Chaudes. The railway from Pau now extends to Laruns, 24 miles (see Chapter XII.), but the drive is more enjoyable, except on a dusty day. The picturesque costumes of the Ossau valley may still be seen occasionally at this village.
Hotels.—Des Touristes, Des Pyrenees. Living economical.
LESCAR.—An ancient and decaying town, 41/2 miles from Pau by rail. Several interesting ruins, &c., for which refer to Chapter I.
LOURDES.—A town in the Hautes-Pyrenees, and railway station on the direct line from Pau to Toulouse, and junction with the line to Pierrefitte. The great Roman Catholic Pilgrimage, having now quite eclipsed Betharram, much visited formerly as a shrine. The grotto where the Virgin is supposed to have appeared is by the riverside. An admirable panorama represents the scene at one of these imaginary apparitions of the Virgin—known as Notre Dame de Lourdes, and always represented in that connection with a blue sash. Five and twenty years and superstition have transformed Lourdes from a little village into a fair-sized town, overloaded with hotels, of which the traveller is advised to be wary, especially during the pilgrim season, when the beds are apt to have other occupants than the "weary traveller's form." The Hotel des Pyrenees may be trusted.
Hotels. Des Pyrenees (Mons. R. Lacrampe); Latapie; De la Grotte, De la Poste, De Paris, De l'Europe, De la Paix, D'Angleterre, &c.
Excellent Carriages on hire in the town and at the hotels.
Excursions to the Lac de Lourdes, &c.
LOURES (1445 ft.).—A village in the Hautes-Pyrenees, 17 1/2 miles from Luchon and 3 from St. Bertrand de Comminges (see Chapter XI.), for which it is the station on the railway between Luchon and Montrejeau, and carriages await trains.
Hotels.—Pyrenees, Lassus.
LOUVIE-JUZON.—A village in the Val d'Ossau, Basses-Pyrenees, 16 miles from Pau, n. from Eaux Bonnes, and less than a mile from the ruins of the ancient castle of Geloz. There is a curious old church in the village, and the inn where the diligence daily halts is known as the Hotel des Pyrenees.
LOUVIE SOUBIBON.—A small village at the foot of a mountain worked for its slates, 4 miles from the above.
LUZ (2410 ft.).—A well-situated village in a fertile valley in the Hautes-Pyrenees, 6 1/4 miles from Pierrefitte, the terminus of the line to Lourdes, 1 1/4 from St. Sauveur, and 3 3/4 from Bareges. From the last-named it receives water for its new Bathing Establishment (see Bareges in Appendix).
Hotels. De l'Univers, Des Pyrenees, De l'Europe, &c.
Apartments may also be obtained. Living is not on the whole expensive, but from July to September from 10 to 16 frs. may be charged—much less at other times (say from 7 to 10).
Carriages and Horses, Asses and Guides can be obtained for the various excursions (for which see St. Sauveur in Appendix).
Post and Telegraph Office.
For description of the old Church of the Templars and the Chateau St. Marie, &c., refer to Chapter VI. MAULEON-BAROUSSE.—In the valley of Barousse, Hautes-Pyrenees, 3 1/4 miles from Salechan, on the line between Montrejeau and Luchon; 4 1/2 miles from Ste. Marie (not to be confounded with the Ste. Marie near Bigorre).
Inn.—M. Grillon's.
MOLITG-les-Bains (1480 ft.).—Built on a terrace above the Castellane Gorge in the Pyrenees Orientales, 5-1/2 miles from Prades and 31 from Perpignan.
The Bathing Establishments (of which there are three) are situated a mile below the village, in the gorge, and they are supplied by 10 springs of a similar nature, largely charged with sulphate of soda, and of temperatures varying from 88 deg. to 100 deg. Fahr. The water has emollient and sedative properties, slightly diuretic, and is especially useful in diseases of the skin and nerves.
The Climate is very mild in winter, but hot in summer; and the season extends from May to October.
Hotels.—The best accommodation is to be had at the bathing establishments Barrere, Llupia, and Massia, all of which belong to M. Massia, who is a doctor by profession.
Chief Excursions are:—
To Olette by the Gourgs de Nohedes (11 hours there and back).
To the Baths of Carcanieres (about 11 hours there only) via Mosset.
MONTAUBAN.—A village in the Hautes-Pyrenees, 1-1/2 miles from Luchon (see Chapter X.), known for its church and cascade.
MONTGAILLARD.—A village on the banks of the Adour, in the Hautes-Pyrenees, 5 miles from Bigorre: station on the line between Bigorre and Tarbes.
MONTREJEAU.—A town standing on an eminence above the river in the Haute-Garonne, junction for Luchon from the Pau-Toulouse line.
Hotels.—Leclair (fine situation); Pouget, well-known; &c.
Buffet at the station. Refer to Chapter XI. for further information.
MORCENZ.—A town in the "Landes" district, 68 miles from Bordeaux, and junction for the Tarbes-Bigorre line. There is a small bathing establishment in the town, supplied by a cold chalybeate spring; and a quarry of lithographic stone in the neighbourhood.
Buffet at station.
Inns.—Commerce, Ambassadeurs.
NAY.—An ancient village in the Basses-Pyrenees, on the left bank of the Gave de Pau. Station, Coarraze-Nay, on the line from Pau to Lourdes; 10-1/2 miles from the former and 14 from the latter. Tanneries, &c., and ancient buildings. See Chapter I.
Inns.—Du Commerce, De France.
NEGRESSE.—The station for Biarritz (2 miles from the town), on the direct line between Bordeaux and Madrid.
NESTALAS.—A village in the Hautes-Pyrenees, near Pierrefitte; the station being known as Pierrefitte-Nestalas, the terminus of the line from Lourdes. Hotel accommodation at Pierrefitte (which see in Appendix).
OLORON.—A town on a hill above the river of same name, in the Basses-Pyrenees, 20 miles from Pau, by Gan and Belair. Its suburb (across the river) Sainte Marie possesses a fine old church of the Transition style. The railway was to be opened this year (1883) in communication with Pau and Laruns. Oloron is celebrated for some exquisite pottery, that can be bought in all the chief Pyrenean resorts except the town itself.
Hotels.—De la Poste, Des Voyageurs, De l'Aigle.
Oo.—A small village with an ancient church, in the Haute-Garonne, 5-1/2 miles from Luchon, and 4-1/2 from the lake of the same name.
Guide.—Jean Brunet.
ORTHEZ.—An ancient town situated on a hill above the Gave de Pau, in the Basses-Pyrenees. The Tour de Moncade, in the vicinity, has great historic interest, besides which there is an ancient bridge and other remains of olden days (see Chapter I.). Coach to Salies (10 miles), and Mauleon-Licharre (27 miles).
Inns.—De la Belle-hotesse, Des Pyrenees, &c.
PAILLOLE (or Payole).—A village in the Hautes-Pyrenees, 11-1/4 miles from Bigorre, on the Route Thermale, via the Col de Peyresourde to Luchon. See Chapters I. and IX.
Inn.—De la Poste.
PANTICOSA.—A village in Spain, 24 miles from Cauterets, celebrated for its waters. The bathing establishments are fed by four springs of the sulphurous type. They are variously used for dyspepsia, rheumatism, skin diseases, scrofula, and chronic (non-tubercular) chest affections. They have a purgative and sedative action.
Hotels.—Accommodation can be best obtained in the nine different bathing establishments belonging to the same proprietor; there are also the D'Espagne and FrancoEspagnol.
Horses.—At about 5 to 7 francs per diem, at the Maison Borda.
Doctors.—Attached to the establishments.
PASAGES.—A village on the shores of a tidal bay in Spain, 30 miles from Bayonne and 6-1/4 from Irun. It was once the safest port in the Biscay. Refer to Chapter XIII.
PAU (770 ft.).—A former capital, and most important town on the right bank of the Gave of same name, in the Basses-Pyrenees. A favourite winter resort with English and Americans, possessing hotels, markets, and shops of the best and most varied descriptions. An excellent starting-point for a tour in the Pyrenees. For history, &c., see Chapter I.
Hotels. France, Poste, Gassion, De la Paix, Splendide Bellevue, Beau Sejour, Grand Continental, De Londres, Henri IV., &c.
Pensions. Colbert, Hattersly, Etcherbest, Lecour, &c.
Apartments.—All over the town.
Season.—1st of October to end of May.
Villas. Can be hired furnished, for the season, at prices varying from L8 per month to L80.
Baths.—Rue Alexander Taylor, and 13 Rue d'Orleanb, &c.
Carriage Proprietors. Ranguedat, Crohare, &c. Lc.
Horse Proprietors. Estrade, Peiho, Lanusse.
T-Carts and Good Ponies.—Schuerch, Rue de la Fontaine.
English Churches.—Trinity Church, Rue des Temples; Christ Church, Rue Serviez; St Andrew's Church, Rue Calas; Presbyterian Church, Rue Montpensier.
Bankers. Merillon, will take English cheques, &c.; Mr. Church, English Vice-Consul; Mr. M. Clay, U. S. ViceConsul; Tricou, &c.
Post and Telegraph Office, Reading—Rooms, Theatre, Casino, &c.
English Club.—Place Royale.
For the principal Excursions and sports and pastimes, refer to Chapter I.; for trips to Eaux Bonnes and Eaux Chaudes, refer to Chapter XIII.
PAYOLE.—See Paillole in Appendix.
PERPIGNAN.—A large town on the river Tet, in the Pyrenees Orientales, junction for Prades (station for Vernet), from the Toulouse line and starting-point of the coach for Amelie; 132 miles from Toulouse, 25 1/2 from Prades, 29 1/2 from Molitg, 32 1/2 from Vernet, and 23 1/2 from Amelie. It is fortified; celebrated for its garnet jewellery; and situated in a valley covered with groves of olive and pomegranate, and fruitful vineyards. Cathedral; chateau (splendid view from donjon tower) in the Citadol, entrance i fr.; theatre, Picture Gallery, &c.
Hotels.—Grand, De France, De l'Europe, Du Petit Paris, &c.
Post and Telegraph Office.
The Chief Excursions are:—
La Salanque, the whole day, by carriage via St. Laurent de la Salanque; Torreilles; Ste. Marie and Villelongue de la Salanque.
Castell Rossello et Canet.—6 1/4 miles; carriage-road part of the way.
PEYREHORADE.—Village in the Landes, and station on the line between Puyoo (13 miles) and Bayonne (19 miles).
Inns.—Lafond Des Voyageurs.
PIERREFITTE.[Footnote: The station is called Pierrefitte-Nestalas.]—A village situated at the foot of the Pic de Soulom and the Gorge de Cauterets in the Hautes Pyrenees. Terminus of the railway line from Lourdes, and starting-point for the diligences to Cauterets, Luz, St. Sauveur, and Bareges.
Hotels. De la Poste, Des Pyrenees, De France. Living more moderate than at any of the above-mentioned towns or Argeles. For further information see Chapter IV.
PRESTE-LES-BAINS.—A bathing-resort in the Eastern Pyrenees, 19 miles from Amelie (to which refer in Appendix), and 42-1/2 from Perpignan, the nearest railway station.
The Bathing Establishment is supplied by one sulphurous spring only, partaking of much the same properties as the more celebrated ones at the larger resorts, being specially beneficial, when drunk, for lithiasis and catarrh of the bladder.
Hotel accommodation in the Bathing Establishment.
Season.—June to October.
PUYOO.—A village in the Basses-Pyrenees, one mile distant from the station of same name; junction for Bayonne from the line between Bordeaux and Pau; from which it is 11-1/2 miles and 32-1/2 miles distant, respectively.
Hotels.—Lafont, Voyageurs.
REBENAC.—A village in the Val de Neez, Basses-Pyrenees, 10 miles from Pau, and 17-1/2 from Eaux Bonnes on the direct route, between the two.
Inn.—Du Perigord.
SAINT AVENTIN (2805 ft.).—A village in the Haute-Garonne, 2-3/4 miles from Luchon, on the Route Thermale. Known for the chapel of same name, to which a legend is attached.
SAINT BEAT.—A village in the Haute-Garonne, 3-1/4 miles from Marignac, a station on the line between Luchon and Montrejeau, from which it is 9-1/2 and 13 miles distant respectively. A favourite drive from Luchon (see Chapter XI. and Luchon in Appendix), road to Viella via Bosost.
Inn.—Commerce.
SAINT BERTRAND DE COMMINGES.—An ancient Roman town in the Haute-Garonne, 3 miles from Loures station on the Luchon-Montrejeau line, For information respecting the old cathedral, &c., refer to Chapter XI.
Inn.—De Comminges.
The Grotto de Gargas is in the vicinity. Guides must be hired at St. Bertrand.
SAINT CHRISTAU.—A village in the Basses-Pyrenees, 5 miles from Oloron, from which it is a lovely drive.
Two Bathing Establishments, fed by four sources, one of which is calcareous, and the rest of a sulphurous nature. They are useful for curing wounds, rheumatism, skin diseases, eczema, laryngitis, and affections of the eyes.
Hotels.—Poste, Grand Turc, Mogul; also Chalets, and rooms from 2 to 5 francs per diem.
There are many pleasant walks in the neighbourhood, and excellent fishing.
SAINTE MARIE (pres Bigorre).—A village in the Campan valley, Hautes-Pyrenees, at the fork of the Route Thermale from Bigorre (see Chapter II.). It is distant 7-1/2 miles from Bigorre, 17-1/2 from Bareges by the Col de Tourmalet route, and 36 from Luchon by the Col d'Aspin.
SAINTE MARIE (pres Oloron).—A suburb of Oloron, on the opposite bank of the river Aspe. See Oloron in Appendix.
SAINTE MARIE (pres St. Laurent).—A small village on a hill in the Eastern Pyrenees, 2-1/2 miles from St. Laurent de la Salanque, and 7-1/2 from Perpignan.
SAINTE MARIE (pres Salechan).—A small bathing resort, situated in a lovely valley in the Hautes-Pyrenees about 1 mile from Salechan station on the Luchon-Montrejeau line.
The Bathing Establishment is supplied by four cold springs, containing sulphate of lime principally, but also small quantities of magnesia and soda. The water is heated for bathing purposes, but drunk in its natural state. It is tonic in its action, but diuretic and purgative as well, and is used efficaciously in liver complaints, dyspepsia, neuralgia, and nervous irritability. Hotel accommodation in the Bathing Establishment and Apartments in the houses near it.
SAINT JEAN DE LUZ.—A watering-place on the Bay of Biscay, in the Basses-Pyrenees, 8 miles from Biarritz, which it is very anxious to outrival. It is well protected from the winds, but is less free from dampness in its climate on the same account. It possesses an old church and several historical buildings, and is one of the favourite drives from Biarritz. Refer to Chapter XIII.
Hotels.—De la Poste, De France, D'Angleterre et de la Plage, De l'Ocean, De Madrid.
Apartments and Houses furnished in the town.
Sea-Bathing Establishment, Casino, &c.
SAINT LAURENT DE LA SALANQUE.—A town in the Eastern Pyrenees, with a good agricultural and commercial industry, 8-3/4 miles from Perpignan.
Hotels.—Got, Garriques.
SAINT MAMET.—A village in the Haute-Garonne, 3/4 mile from Luchon (see Chapter X.). The church is interesting.
SAINT PE.—A village built on an eminence in the Hautes-Pyrenees, and station on the railway between Pau and Lourdes, 18 miles from the one and 6-1/4 from the other.
SAINT PEE-sur-Nivelles.—A village in the Basses-Pyrenees, on the route between St. Jean de Luz and Cambo—8-3/4 miles from the former, and 10 miles from the latter.
SAINT SAUVEUR (2525 ft.).—A bathing and mountain resort in the Hautes-Pyrenees, 7 miles from Pierrefitte—the nearest station—1-1/4 from Luz, and 5 from Bareges. A most charming place for a spring or summer residence, being beautifully situated and possessing numerous pleasant walks in the vicinity. See Chapter VII.
Two Bathing Establishments, each supplied by one spring, in which sulphuret of sodium predominates. The water is largely diuretic in its action, having at the same time a tonic and anti-spasmodic effect. Its sedative properties are beneficial to the nervous system generally, and it proves useful in removing the after-effects of long illnesses, haemorrhages, &c., besides being pleasant to the skin.
Hotels. De France, Des Bains, Du Parc, Des Princes, De Paris.
Guides (living at Luz).—Martin, Noguez, Fortanet, and Bernard senior. For lofty summits, such as the Pic d'Ardiden, and for other excursions, Lons, Pratdessus, and Cramp Brothers.
Horses may generally be obtained from them, and Carriages (at Luz) as well.
Post and Telegraph during the season only, but letters and telegrams are forwarded from Luz at other times, there being one delivery and one collection of the former daily.
Chief Excursions:—
To Bareges.—10 to 15 frs. landau; 2 frs. pourboire. See Chapter VI.
To Sazos and Grust.—See Chapter VII.
To Gavarnie.—Landau and four horses, 15 to 25 frs.; pourboire, 3 frs. Horses and guide to the Cirque, each 2 frs. from Gavarnie. See Chapter VIII.
The Pic de Bergons.—4 frs. each horse, guide 5 frs. out of season, 6 frs. each in season. Refer to Chapter VII.
The Pic de Viscos.—7 hours up and down. Guide 10 frs., horse 8 frs. Via Grust; a pleasant excursion.
Pic de Nere.—8 hours there and back. Horse 10 frs., guide 12 frs. Horse-track three-quarters of the way; an easy and pleasant climb.
Pic d'Ardiden.—8-1/2 hours up and down. Guide necessary. A fine but difficult climb.
SAINT SAVIN.—A very ancient village in the Argeles valley, in the Hautes-Pyrenees; fully described in Chapter IV.
SAINT SEBASTIEN.—A town in the north of Spain, on the shores of the Biscay, 163-1/2 miles from Bordeaux, 35 from Biarritz, and 19 from Hendaye (the French frontier town). Possessing a fine citadel, bull-ring, beach, and bathing establishment, and two fine churches. See Chapter XIII.
Hotels. De Londres, De Escurra, Anglais, De Arrese, De Berdejo, &c.
SALECHAN.—A village in the Garonne valley, in the Hautes-Pyrenees, and station on the Montrejeau-Luchon line for Ste. Marie (baths) and Siradan (baths).
SALIES.—A town on the river of same name, in the Basses-Pyrenees, 10 miles from Orthez, the nearest station.
It is celebrated for its salt springs; and Bayonne hams are said to owe their fine (?) flavour to the use of the salt produced from them.
Hotels.—Du Cheval Blanc, De France, De Paris.
SAZOS.—A small village near St. Sauveur, in the Hautes-Pyrenees, below the hamlet of Grust. For description of church, &c., refer to Chapter VII.
SIRADAN.—A small bathing resort in the valley of same name, in the Hautes-Pyrenees, with a bathing establishment and hotel in one building, 2 miles from Salechan station on the Luchon-Montrejeau line. The springs contain sulphuret of lime and bicarbonate of iron. They have a similar effect to those of Ste. Marie (1 mile distant), but tend to excite more strongly. The water stands bottling well.
SOULOM.—A small village at the foot of the peak of same name, in the Hautes-Pyrenees, near Pierrefitte, possessing a curious old church. See Chapter IV.
TARBES.—A large town on the Adour, in the Hautes-Pyrenees. Station on the railway between Pau and Toulouse, and junction for the Bigorre and Morcenz lines. Cavalry barracks, cathedral, &c. Buffet at the station. See Chapter III.
Hotels.—De la Paix, France, Commerce.
URRUGNE.—A village in the Basses-Pyrenees, 2-1/2 miles from St. Jean de Luz.
USTARITZ.—The name of two villages, formerly separate, in the Basses-Pyrenees, 8-3/4 miles from Bayonne, on the carriage-road thence via Elizondo to Pampeluna (63 miles).
VALCABRERE.—A small village in the Haute-Garonne, 2 miles from Loures station on the Luchon-Montrejeau line, celebrated for the Church of St. Just, a venerable pile in the vicinity.
VENASQUE.—A small and prosperous town in Spain, 9 hours from Luchon (21 miles) by the Port of the same name. There are some baths similar in their uses to those of Luchon, fed by sulphurous springs at some distance from the town, and 2-1/2 hours nearer Luchon.
Excellent accommodation can be obtained at the Casa san Mimi (Antonio Saora) for travellers.
VERNET-LES-BAINS (2050 ft.), a bathing resort situated in a hollow in the Eastern Pyrenees, 7 miles from the nearest railway station.
There are several springs which supply the large Bathing Establishment and the smaller Thermes Mercader. The water is largely charged with sulphate of lime, and possesses properties similar to other waters of that type. It is especially useful in affections of the air-passages and skin complaints, and is more or less exciting according to the springs. The climate is mild, and therefore Vernet has some reputation as a winter resort, being very little colder than Amelie (to which refer in Appendix).
Hotels.—Des Commandants (in the bathing establishment), Du Parc, Ibrahim Pacha et des Bains, Du Canigou, &c.
Villas furnished to be let.
Carriages and Horses.
Post and Telegraph Office, Theatre, Clubs, &c.
Guide.—Michael Nou.
Chief Excursions:—
The Canigou (9144 ft.)—11 hours up and down. Guide recommended, also provisions. Horses 10 frs., guide 10 frs. Horses can go within a mile of the top, from which the view is splendid. The ascent is long but not difficult.
The Fountain des Esquereyres.—Via Castell, 1/2 hour; a pleasant walk.
Tour de Goa.—4 hours up and down. An interesting battlemented tower, with a fine view.
Vallee de Sahorre.—3 hours there and back; an enjoyable trip.
Cascade de Cadi.—6 hours there and back; guide recommended.
The Abbey of Canigou.—2-1/2 hours there and back; guide unnecessary. An interesting ruin.
Vieuzac.—A suburb of Argeles, in the Hautes-Pyrenees, possessing a donjon tower. The station on the line from Lourdes is called Argeles-Vieuzac.
Villelongue.—A small village in the Argeles valley, in the Hautes-Pyrenees, near Pierrefitte. See Chapter IV.
APPENDIX B
RAILWAY INFORMATION AND SKELETON ROUTES TO THE CHIEF RESORTS IN THE PYRENEES.
For the ordinary traveller a "Continental Bradshaw" is as useful a railway guide as any, especially if his knowledge of French is limited, but the time tables published by Chaix and Cie. are also most excellent in every way. Of these the best and most expensive is the "Livret-Chaix Continental," price 2 frs, containing all continental railways and a complete index. A cheaper time table is the "Indicateur des Chemins de Fer," published by the same firm, price 1/2 fr., which gives the French railways only, with map and index. Besides these, all the principal lines have time tables of their own, price 30 cents.
It is advisable, when people are travelling as a party, that they should have their luggage all weighed together, presenting the whole of the tickets at the same time; this not only frequently saves expense, but, as the number of persons is marked by the luggage clerk on their baggage receipt, it is a guarantee that each has bought a ticket, which saves trouble if one should happen to be lost.
When people are stopping the night en route at a place, and do not wish to take their registered luggage to the hotel, only to have to bring it back for re-registration next day, they have simply to leave it in the station, and when starting again on the morrow to tell the porter—when they give him the baggage ticket—that it was left overnight (for which the charge is 1d. per package), whereupon he will register it without further trouble.
If a ticket is taken for the wrong station (by mistake) and the luggage is accordingly registered wrongly too, the passenger must represent the same to the station-master and ask him to allow a change to be made; if there is not time to do this the luggage clerk may take the responsibility—if the urgency of the case is made argentiferously clear—but the plan is not recommended. It is important to know that if a traveller misses his train he must present his ticket at the ticket office to be restamped in order to make it again available—otherwise it is liable to be forfeited.
Travellers will also save themselves much trouble by settling which hotel they intend to go to, before arriving at their destination; and it must be fully understood that for the carrying of small parcels taken into the carriage, the aid of porters can never be counted on. See Chapter XI.
Luggage not exceeding 30 kilogrammes (i.e. 66 lbs. Eng.) is carried free; 1d. being charged for the registration thereof.
* * * * *
Routes from London to Paris.
Route 1.—Via Dover, Calais, Montreuil, Abbeville, Amiens, Claremont, and Creil: the quickest route.
Route 2.—Via Folkestone, Boulogne, Montreuil, &c. as above.
Route 3.—Via Newhaven, Dieppe, Rouen, Gaillon, Mantes, and Poissy: the least expensive route.
From Liverpool to Bordeaux.
Route 4.—Per Pacific Steam Navigation Co.'s steamers, fortnightly, sailing on Wednesdays; average passage 2-1/2 days.
From London to Bordeaux.
Route. 5.—Per General Steam Navigation Co.'s steamers, average passage 3 to 4 days.
Route 6.—Via Weymouth, Cherbourg, Caen, Alencon, Le Mans, Tours and Angouleme. From Paris to Bordeaux.
Route 7.—Via Orleans, Blois, St. Pierre les Corps (for Tours), Poitiers, Angouleme, and Libourne.
From Paris to Bagneres de Bigorre.
Route 8.—Via Orleans, Nexon, Perigueux, Les Eyzies, Libos, Agen, Lectoure, Auch, Mirande, and Tarbes: the most direct route from Paris to the Pyrenees.
From Paris to Toulouse.
Route 9.—Via Issoudun, Argenton, Limoges, Nexon, Brives, Rocamadour, Assier, Figeac, Villefranche, and Tessonieres: the quickest and best route for the Pyrenees Orientales, and resorts of Vernet, Amelie, &c.
From Bordeaux to Arcachon.
Route 10.—Via Gazinet, Facture, Lamothe, and La Teste.
From Bordeaux to Bagneres de Bigorre.
Route 11.—Via Morcenx, Arjuzaux, Arengosse, Mont de Marsan, Aire, Vic-Bigorre, Tarbes, Salles, Adour, and Montgaillard: a longer route from Paris, by a few miles only, than Route 8.
From Bordeaux to Biarritz.
Route 12.—Via Ychoux, Morcenx, Dax, Saint Geours, and Bayonne.
From Bordeaux to Pau.
Route 13.—Via Ychoux, Morcenx, Dax, Puyoo, Orthez, Lacq, and Lescar.
From Pau to Eaux Bonnes and Eux Chaudes. Route 14.—By carriage via Gan, Louvie-Juzon, and Laruns.
Route 15.—By rail via Gan and Laruns, [Footnote: This railway was to be opened this year (1883).] and carriage from Laruns.
From Pau to Lourdes.
Route 16.—Via Coarraze-Nay, Montaut-Betharram, and St. Pe.
From Pau to Oloron.
Route 17.—Via Gan and Belair.
From Lourdes to Argeles.
Route 18.—Via Soum, Lugagnan, and Boo-Silhen.
From Lourdes to Pierrefitte.
Route 19.—Via Soum, Lugagnan, Boo-Silhen and Argeles.
From Lourdes to Cauterets, Luz, St. Sauveur, Bareges, and Gavarnie.
Route 20.—By Route 19 to Pierrefitte, thence by diligence or private carriage to Cauterets.
Route 21.—By Route 19 to Pierrefitte, thence by diligence or private carriage to Luz.
Route 22.—By Route 19 to Pierrefitte, thence by similar conveyances to St. Sauveur.
Route 23.—By Route 21 to Luz and continuation to Bareges.
Route 24.—By Route 22 to St. Sauveur and continuation to Gavarnie.
From Bagneres de Bigorre to Bareges.
Route 25.—By carriage via Ste. Marie, Gripp, Tramesaigues, and the Col de Tourmalet. This route is only open in midsummer.
From Bagneres de Bigorre to Bagneres de Luchon.
Route 26.—By carriage via Campan, Ste. Marie, Payole, Col d'Aspin, Arreau, Borderes, Col de Peyresourde, and Garin. Considered the finest drive in the Pyrenees.
Route 27.—By rail via Montgaillard, Tarbes, Montrejeau, Salechan, Marignac, and Luchon. An exceedingly long round.
From Bagneres de Luchon to St. Bertrand de Comminges.
Route 27.—By carriage via Cier, Marignac, Salechan, Loures, and Labroquere.
Route 28.—By train via Marignac and Salechan to Loures, and carriage thence to St. Bertrand. The rail continues from Loures to Montrejeau.
From St. Bertrand to Montrejeau.
Route 29.—By carriage to Loures station, thence by train to Montrejeau.
Route 30.—By carriage direct to Montrejeau.
From Toulouse to Perpignan.
Route 31.—Via Castelnaudary, Carcassone, Narbonne, La Nouvelle, Salses, and Rivesaltes.
From Perpignan to Amelie-les-Bains.
Route 32.—By diligence or carriage via Pollestres, Le Boulou, and Le Pont de Ceret.
From Perpignan to Molitg.
Route 33.—By rail via Millas, Ille, Bouleternere, and Vinca, to Prades, thence by diligence or carriage via Catlar to Molitg.
From Perpignan to Vernet.
Route 34—Route 33 to Prades and coach to Vernet.
Route 35—By rail via Prades to Villefranche, and carriage thence to Vernet.
APPENDIX C.
SOME LOCAL PYRENEAN TERMS AND THEIR ENGLISH EQUIVALENTS.
Artigue, pasturage, prairie. Barranque, a deep hollow or ravine. Borde, Bourdette, farm-house, barn, cot. Caire, Quaire, Quairat, a cone-shaped peak, rocky and bare. Canaou, narrow ravine worn by the snow. Cap, mountain tip. Clot, a valley without exit. Colline, a small valley, a dale. Cortal, Courtaou, sheep-fold, sheep-pen. Couila, Couillade, shepherd's cabin, hut, fertile vale. Estibe, pasturage, feeding-ground. Estibere, a well-pastured mountain. Fitte, pointed summit. Montagne, feeding-ground (on a mountainside). Neste, mountain torrent. Orrhy, Orri, shepherd's hut. Oule, a bowl-shaped valley. Pech, Pouey, Puy, a mountain of no great height, in the Western Pyrenees; but also applied to loftier summits, in the Eastern range. Pene, Pena, Penne, pointed rock. Peyre, a large crag. Piche, Pisse, a cascade waterfall. Pinede, Pinade, pine forest, site of pine forest. Pique, synonymous with Fitte, pointed summit, peak. Pla, Plan, a valley with level meadows. Prade, Pradere, similar to Estibe, feeding-ground, meadow. Raillere, steep decline, avalanche channel. Roque, a mountain, steep and covered with crags. Sarrat, Serre, Serrere, a sharp-toothed crest, backbone of mountain. Sarre, a small hill. Seoube, Scube, wood, forest. Tausse, Truc, Truque, Tuc, a steep and lofty peak with large buttresses.
The Defiles and Passes of the mountains for which the word Col is generally applied, bear many other names, of which the following, with their special significations, are the chief:—
Core, a pass on a side range or small lateral chain. Fourgue, Fourquette, Hourque, Hourquette, generally applied to passes on the small side ranges. Pas, a pass difficult of approach. Port, a pass in the principal chain. Porteil, Portillon, Pourtet, passes in the principal or side chains.
APPENDIX D.
GENERAL INFORMATION, AND TABLES OF METRES, GRAMMES, DEGREES, &c. &c.
It would be difficult to speak with too much weight on the subject of bread, especially where invalids are concerned, and that article in the Pyrenees is essentially bad we might almost say unfit for food. With the exception of Bagneres de Bigorre and then only when specially ordered and in the season, Bagneres de Luchon, the bread throughout the mountain resorts is abominably sour. Travellers do eat it, because they have no other, but to invalids it is positively nauseous. In our opinion it is the only real drawback to enjoying a Pyrenean trip! But it would be foolish to bring it into such prominence when we have all along recommended a stay amid these lovely scenes, unless we could suggest a remedy, and the remedy is as simple as, with us, it proved complete. There are several bakers in Pau selling bread as good as one could wish for, and doubtless any of these would be glad to meet the wishes of travellers; in our case we addressed ourselves to Mr. Otto Kern, Vienna Bakery, Rue de la Prefecture, Pau, requesting him to supply us with a certain quantity of bread daily, at whatever place we might be. We had previously decided on our route on broad lines, so that a postcard as a rule was sufficient to give notice of a change in our address; while if a sudden alteration occurred in our plans, a half-franc telegram told him the news, and our bread never failed to be at the right place on the right day. The bread sufficient for four people, carriage thereof, and a trifle for commission (i.e. paper and trouble) cost on an average 2 frs. 50 cents per diem, which was a little over 80 centimes each. Perhaps in time hotel-keepers will resort to this method; in fact, we were assured that it would be so; but in the meantime every traveller is recommended to do so on his own account; though in all other respects he will find most of the hotels throughout the mountains very well found. When once in the Pyrenees, after Pau had been left behind, we found an average price of 10 frs. per day perhaps a shade less was what our hotel expenses amounted to; including coffee and milk, bread and butter, eggs or kidneys or chops for the first breakfast; table d'hote luncheon and table d'hote dinner, with a good bedroom not higher than 2nd floor. These prices must be understood as only those of a spring or autumn tour out of the season and rather easier than a traveller would pay at many of the hotels if he arrived without having previously written and made terms. We invariably wrote, and at all the hotels marked thus received every attention, good rooms, good food, and dry beds.
It is difficult to give a hard-and-fast amount per diem as to expenditure, as it depends so much on the drives, excursions, &c.; as above stated 10 frs. per day paid all hotel expenses (including vin ordinaire), and we consider that in the spring, with several excursions, and "a landau and four" for the principal drives—such as Bigorre to Luchon, Lourdes to St. Sauveur, St. Sauveur to Gavarnie, &c. &c.—25 frs. or L1 per day ought to cover the whole daily expense of each person. In the summer of course 35 frs., or even 40 frs., would be required for the same period. Horses and carriages are cheap in the spring, but even then a little judicious bargaining is required, as it is in nearly every transaction, in the Pyrenees.
Jam, marmalade, bloater-paste, and small luxuries of that kind, not excluding whiskey, are difficult to obtain, and it is well to take them all from Pau or Biarritz, wherever the start is made. Bagneres de Bigorre, chez M. Peltier, is fairly well supplied, but other resorts know not the sound of their names! It is also worth knowing that a system of "Parcels Post" is in operation, whereby any moderate-sized parcel can be dispatched from any station for 85 cents, and delivered at any place within reach of the railway or diligence; but it must be understood at the same time that bread will in like manner be delivered only where the railway or diligence runs; if travellers therefore go to places where there is no official communication, they must depute some agent to receive letters or parcels where the diligence last stops, and then forward them by special messenger. This can be done of course, but it will prove costly.
The rate of postage is 2-1/2d. the 15 grammes (a shade over 1/2 oz.), and 2-1/2d. for every additional 15 grammes.
Money orders are issued at all the principal towns to which (see Appendix A) a post-office belongs.
Telegrams, 1/2 d = 5 cents, per word, the address being charged for the same as the rest; but no telegram can cost less than 50 centimes.
The rate to England is variable; usually 2-1/2 d. per word.
Money is reckoned at 25 frs. to the L1 English, and banknotes or gold will be accepted in nearly all hotels, and circular notes as well, at the larger resorts.
TABLE OF LITRES AND PINTS.
1/2 litre = 7/8 pint. 1 " = 1-3/4 pints. 2 litres = 3-1/2 pints. 4 " = 7 pints. 8 " = 7 quarts.
TABLES OF GRAMMES AND OUNCES.
29 grammes = 1 oz. 57 " = 2 oz. 86 " = 3 oz. 114 " = 4 oz. = 1/4 lb. 227 " = 8 oz. = 1/2 lb. 454 " = 16 oz. = 1 lb. 908 " = 32 oz. = 2 lbs. 1000 " = 35-1/5 oz. = 2 lbs. 3-1/5 oz. 1 kilogramme = 1000 grammes = 2 lbs. 3-1/5 oz.
TABLE OF CENTIMETRES AND INCHES.
100 centimetres = 1 metre = 39-1/3 inches; 1 centimetre = 2/5 inch as near as possible.
5 centimetres = 2 inches. 10 " = 4 " 15 " = 6 " 20 " = 8 " 25 " = 10 " 30 " = 12 " = 1 foot. 45 " = 18 " = 1-1/2 feet. 50 " = 20 " = 1 ft. 8 in. 60 " = 24 " = 2 feet. 90 " = 36 " = 3 feet. 100 " = 39-1/3 " = 3 ft. 3-1/3 in.
TABLE OF METRES AND FEET, FOR DETERMINING THE HEIGHT OF MOUNTAINS, &c.
1 metre = 3 ft. 3-1/3 in. as near as possible, without using decimals; but at this computation 2 inches are lost in every 25 metres, which however have been duly supplied in the following table, but the fractions omitted:—
Metres. Ft. in. Metres. Ft. in. Metres. Ft. in.. 1 = 3 3 26 = 85 4 140 = 459 4 2 = 6 7 27 = 88 7 150 = 492 2 3 = 9 10 28 = 91 10 160 = 524 11 4 = 13 1 29 = 95 2 170 = 557 9 5 = 16 5 30 = 98 8 175 = 574 3 6 = 19 8 35 = 114 10 180 = 590 7 7 = 22 11 40 = 131 2 190 = 623 4 8 = 26 3 45 = 147 7 200 = 656 3 9 = 29 6 50 = 164 1 300 = 984 4 10 = 32 9 55 = 180 5 400 = 1,312 6 11 = 36 1 60 = 196 10 500 = 1,640 7 12 = 39 4 65 = 213 3 600 = 1,968 8 13 = 42 7 70 = 229 7 700 = 2,296 9 14 = 45 11 75 = 246 1 800 = 2,624 10 15 = 49 2 80 = 262 6 900 = 2,953 0 16 = 52 5 85 = 278 10 1,000 = 3,281 1 17 = 55 9 90 = 295 3 2,000 = 6,562 2 18 = 59 0 95 = 311 8 3,000 = 9,843 3 19 = 62 3 1OO = 328 2 3,100 = 10,171 5 20 = 65 7 105 = 344 6 3,200 = 10,499 6 21 = 68 10 110 = 360 11 3,300 = 10,827 7 22 = 72 1 115 = 377 4 3,400 = 11,155 8 23 = 75 5 120 = 393 8 3,500 = 11,483 9 24 = 78 8 125 = 410 2 4,000 = 13,124 4 25 = 82 0 130 = 426 6
TABLE OF KILOMETRES AND MILES.
1 kilometre = 1,000 metres = 1,093 yards = 5/8 mile, as nearly as possible, without employing decimals; but at this computation the kilometre gains 11 yards, 40 kilometres gain 1/4 mile, and 160 kilometres gain 1 mile. This gain has been deducted in the following table, and all fractions less than 1/4 omitted:—
Kilos. Miles. Kilos. Miles.
1 = 5/8 19 = 11-3/4 2 = 1-1/4 20 = 12-1/4 3 = 2 30 = 18-1/2 4 = 2-1/2 40 = 24-3/4 5 = 3 50 = 31 6 = 3-3/4 60 = 37 7 = 4-1/4 70 = 43-1/4 8 = 5 80 = 55-3/4 9 = 5-1/2 100 = 62 10 = 6-1/4 120 = 74-1/4 11 = 7 160 = 99 12 = 7-1/2 200 = 123-3/4 13 = 8 300 = 185-1/2 14 = 8-3/4 320 = 198 15 = 9-1/4 400 = 247-1/2 16 = 10 500 = 309-1/4 17 = 10-1/2 1,000 = 618-3/4 18 = 11-1/4
COMPARISON TABLE OF THE CENTIGRADE AND FAHRENHEIT THERMOMETERS.
1 deg. Centigrade = 1-4/5 Fahr.; 5 deg. Cent. = 9 deg. Fahr. It must be understood that, as the freezing-point of Centigrade is Zero and of Fahrenheit 32 deg., these 32 deg. must be taken into account in all calculations above freezing-point: thus +5 deg. Cent. are equivalent to a temperature of 41 deg. Fahr.
Cent. Fahr. Cent. Fahr.
Below -15 = +3 17 = 63 Zero. -10 = +12 18 = 64 -5 = +21 19 = 65 0 = 32 Freezing-point. 20 = 67 1 = 34 25 = 76 2 = 36 30 = 85 3 = 37 35 = 94 4 = 39 35-1/2 = 95 Blood heat. 5 = 41 40 = 103 6 = 43 45 = 112 7 = 45 50 = 121 8 = 47 55 = 130 9 = 48 60 = 139 10 = 50 65 = 148 11 = 52 70 = 156 12 = 54 75 = 165 13 = 55 80 = 174 13-1/2 = 56 Temperate. 85 = 183 14 = 57 90 = 192 15 = 59 95 = 201 16 = 61 100 = 210 Boiling-point.
INDEX.
A.
Abbe's song, the, A dirty avalanche, A "double stroke" (St. Sauveur), Adour, basin of, Allee d'Etigny (Luchon), de Barcugna, des Bains, Verte (Bareges), Allees de Cambasque, Amelie-les-Bains, excursions from, general information, hotels at, &c., Amoy, Valley of Ten Thousand Rocks, Ancient church of the Templars (Luz), Anemone vernalis, scarlet, wood, A new "diet of worms," An excited dog-fancier, An extraordinary detachment, Anglet, Appendix A, B, C, D, Aran, valley of, Arboust, valley of, Arcachon, Arcachon, excursions from, general information, hotels at, Argeles, drive round valley of, excursions from, hotels at, valley of, Argeles-sur-Mer, Arles-sur-Tech, Arlos, Arreau, hotels at and excursions from, Arrens, excursions from, hotels at, Arrieuze (river), Arroudet, cascade of, Artigues-Tellin, Arudy, Ascent of the Col de Riou, Ascent of the Pic de Bergons, Aspe, valley of, Aspin, col of, Asphodel, Assat, Aste, Atalaya, cape, Auberge du Lys (Luchon), Auch, road of, Aure, valley of, Avajan, Avalanche, a dirty, Avenue de Salut, Ax, road of,
B.
Bagneres de Bigorre to Bagneres de Luchon Bagneres de Luchon to Bareges Bagneres de Bigorre Bagneres de Bigorre, bathing establishment of Bagneres de Bigorre, excursions from Bagneres de Bigorre, hotels of Bagneres de Bigorre, springs of Bagneres de Luchon to Montrejeau Bagneres de Luchon to St. Bertrand de Comminges Bagneres de Luchon Bagneres de Luchon, baths of Bagneres de Luchon, casino of Bagneres de Luchon, excursions from Bagneres de Luchon, general information Bagneres de Luchon, hotels at Ballooning Barbe de Bouch Bareges " bathing establishment of " excursions from " hotels of Barousse, valley of Basin of Adour " Echez Baths of Amelie " Bareges " Capvern " Cesar " Grand Pre " Hontalade " Le Pre " Luchon " Luz " Marie Therese " Mauhourat " Molitg " OEufs " Panticosa " Pauze Nouveaux " " Vieux " Petit St. Sauveur " Preste " Raillere " Ste. Marie (near Luchon) " St. Sauveur " Salut " Sante " Siradan " Vernet Baudean Bayonne " general information " hotels at Beaucens, castle of Bedat Bee orchids Behobie Belesten Bernadette Soubirons Betharram " bridge near Betpouey (Bareges) Biarritz " amusements of " Cape Atalaya at " general information " hotels at " Port Vieux at Bidart Bidassoa Bielle Bilheres Billeres (Pau) Billeres plains of, " woods of, Bious-Artigues, Bishop's arrival, the, Bizanos, Black Forest (Bosost), Black Prince, Boo-Silhen, Bordeaux to Arcachon, Bordeaux to Bagneres de Bigorre, Bordeaux to Biarritz, " to Pau, Bordeaux, " hotels at, " steamers to, " trains to, Borderes, Bosost, " chapel of St. Antoine at, " church of, " Fonda (inn) d'Espana at, Box plants, Brada (mountain), Bread, " arrival of, Breche d'Allanz, " Fausse, " de Roland, Broussette, valley of, Bue, Bugaret (mountain), " torrent of, Burbe, valley of, Burnished toes, Butte du Tresor, Buvette de Minvieille,
C.
Cabaliros, the, Cabanes du Lys, Cagots, Cambo, " hotels at, Campan, Canine absurdity, " feat, a, Canton, odours of, Capercailzie, Capvern, " baths of, " hotels at, Carmelites, church of the (Bigorre), Carnival time (Pau), Cascade d'Arroudet, " de Cerizey, " du Coeur, " de Discoo, " des Eaux Bonnes, " d'Enfer, " du Groshetre, " de Laressec, " de Lassariou, " du Lutour, " du Marbore, " de Montauban, " de Pisse-Arros, " de Rioumaou, " du Serpent, " de Sidonie, " du Valentin, Casino (Luchon), " (Pau), " du Portillon (Luchon), " de Roulette (Luchon), Castel-Geloos, Castel-Mouly, Castel-Vieilh (or Castelvieil) Castets, Catarabe, Cat-fight, Cauterets, " baths of, " excursions from, " Fruitiere of, " Gorge of, " hotels of, Cazaril, Cazaux, Cecire (Bosost), " (Superbagneres), Cemetery, Luz, " Pau, Cercle des Etrangers (Bareges), Cerizey, cascade of, Chambre d'Amour (inn), Chamois, Chandelles du Marbore, Chaos, the, Chapelle de Pietad, " de St. Antoine, " de St. Exupere, " de St. Roch, " de Solferino, Chateau de Beaucens, " de Despourrins, " de Geloz, " de Miramont, " de Ste. Marie, Chester, resemblance to, Cheval, Madame, Chinaougue, Church of Montauban, " Notre Dame, Arreau, " Notre Dame, Lourdes, " Pietat, " St. Jacques, Pau, " St. Martin, Pau, " St. Savin, Argeles, " St. Vincent, Bigorre, " Sazos, " Soulom, Chute de Lapaca, " la Pique, Cier de Luchon, Cierp, Cirque de Gavarnie, " Troumouse, Clerical sensation, Coarraze, Coffre d'Ossau, Col d'Arbeousse, " d'Aspin, " d'Aubiste, " de Bue " d'Estom Soubiran, " de Gourzy, " de Marie Blanque, " de Peyresourde, " de Portillon, " de Riou, " de Tortes, " de Tourmalet, Columbine (aquilegia), Confirmation at Cauterets, Coteaux, the (Pau), Cottin, Madame, Coumelie (mountain), Couradilles, the, Coustous, the, " music on the, Cowslips, Crabe (bridge), Crabioules, glacier of, Crere d'Ordincede, "Crocodile of St. Bertrand," the, Croix de Manse, " de Mouguere, "Cry of the Lourdes Shopkeepers," the, Cucurlon rock (Biarritz), Cylindre (du Marbore),
D.
Dax, " baths of, " hotels at, Daffodils, Dangerous footing, Dear travelling, Dog-fancier, an excited, Dragon's-mouth Rock,
E.
Eaux Bonnes, 178; " bathing establishment of, " cascade of, " excursions from, Eaux Bonnes, hotels at, Eaux Chaudes, baths at, excursions from, grotto of, hotels at, Echez, basin of, Echo, wonderful, English Church (Bigorre), Entecade, peak, Espelette, Esplanade des Oeufs, Esquiez, Esterre, "Exhortation to the First Snow,"
F.
Fashion on a donkey, Fausse Breche (Gavarnie), Feather moss, Females, importunate, Fete de Payole, Flight of lizards, Fontaine de Marnieres (Pau) Fos, French sportsmen (Pau), Fuenterabia (Fr. Fontarabie),
G.
Gabas, Gabrielle d'Estrelle, Gan, Garin, Garonne, river, valley of, Gavarnie, Cirque of, hotels of, Port de, Gave d'Azun, Gave de Bareges, Gave de Bastan, Cauterets, Gavarnie, Heas, Lutour, Marcadau, d'Ossau, de Pau, Gazost-les-Bains, Gedre, excursions from, grotto of, Geloos, Castel Gelos, General information, Appendix D, Gentians, Gerde, Geruzet's marble works, Ges, Glacier de Crabioules, Gorge de Bacheviron, Cauterets, du Hourat, Gouffre d'Enfer, Granges de Gouron, Grange de la Reine Hortense, Gripp, Grocer's opinion, the (Cauterets), Grotto of Eaux Chaudes, Gedre, Lourdes, the Neez, Grust (St. Sauveur), Guetary, "Guide's Auction," the,
H.
Heas, inn, &c., valley of, Hendaye, Hepaticas, Hermitage of St. Peter (St. Sauveur), Herrere, stream, Hospice Civil (Bigorre) " de France (Luchon) " de Ste. Eugenie (Bareges) Hotel d'Angleterre, Argeles " Baudot, Eaux Chaudes " Beau Sejour (Bigorre) " Canton, Luchon " de Comminges " d'Espana, Bosost " de France, Argeles " " Arreau " " Eaux Bonnes " " St. Sauveur " du Parc, Cauterets " de Paris, Biarritz " de la Poste, Payole " " Pierrefitte " des Pyrenees, Lourdes " " Louvie-Juzon " de l'Univers, Luz " des Voyageurs, Gavarnie Houn Blanquo Hourat, Gorge de Hungry guardian, a Hyacinths
I.
"Idyllic Colbert" (Pau) Importunate females Irun Itsatsou Izeste
J.
Jaca, a "Jackdaw's Causerie" Jardin a l'Anglaise (St. Sauveur) " Darralde " des Quinconces "Jay of Bareges," the "Jeannette's Lamb," Jonquils Jurancon
L.
Labassere, a waters of (see Bagneres de Bigorre) La Brune (Cauterets) La Casque du Marbore Lac Bleu " d'Estibaoute " d'Estom " d'Estom Soubiran " de Gaube " Vert "Lady's Farewell to her Asinine Steed," the Lagas, fountain of Lamothe Lapaca, Chute de Laressec, cascade of, Laruns church of inns at Lassariou, cascade of La Tour du Marbore Les Lescar "Lesson of the Mountains," the Lime-works (Eaux Bonnes) Linaria Liverpool to Bordeaux Lizards, flight of Llanberis Pass, resemblance to London to Bordeaux London to Paris Louderville Lourdes to Argeles " Bareges " Cauterets " Gavarnie " Luz Lourdes to Pierrefitte, St. Sauveur, Lourdes, castle of, chapel of, church of, grotto of, hotels at, panorama of, Loures, inns of, Louron, valley of, Louvie-la-Haute, Louvie-Juzon, Louvie-Soubiron, Luchon (see Bagneres de Luchon) Lunch on the Bergons, Lutour, cascade of, valley of, Luz, hotels at, baths of, Lys, valley of,
M.
Marble Works, Geruzet's, Marbore, the, Cascade du, Chandelles du, Epaule du, La Casque du, La Tour du, "March of the Men of Garlic," the, Marignac, Marion, Lake, Marnieres, Fontaine de, Maucapera, Mauleon-Barousse, Licharre, Mediabat, bridge of, Menu (Cauterets), (Payole), Mill conduits, Milord, a, Minvieille, Buvette de, Molitg, baths of, &c., excursions from, hotels at, Monne, Bigorre, Cauterets, Rouge, Montagne de Brada, Mont Arrouye, Montaigu, Pic de (see Pic) Montauban, church of, cascade of, Mont Bedat, Ferrat, Montgaillard, Montrejeau, buffet of, Mont Segu, Bosost, Morcenx, Mouguere (cross of), Mountain rhododendrons, violets, Mouriscot, Lake, Museum (Luchon), (Luz),
N.
Napoleon's pillar (St. Sauveur), Narcissus, Nature's voice, Nay, Neez, grotto of the, stream, valley of, Negresse (station), Nestalas, Neste (river), Nethou, Pic de, New "diet of worms," a, Nivelle (river), Noah's ark landscape, a,
O.
"Old world and the new," the (Pau), Oloron, general information, hotels at, roads to, Oo, Open-air concert, Ordincede, Crete d', Orphanage of Notre Dame du Rocher (Luchon), Orphanage, church of, Orpheon, the, Orthez, Osmunda regalis (fern), Ossau, Gave d', Val d', Ourous, "Oxen's Appeal," the, Oxslips,
P.
Paillole (see Payole) Pagoda Villa, the (Cauterets), Palais de Justice, Pau, Palomieres de Gerde, Panorama of Lourdes, Panticosa, hotels at, Parc Beaumont, Pau, du Chateau, Pau, Paris to Bagneres de Bigorre, Paris to Bordeaux, Paris to Toulouse, Pasages, Pas de l'Echelle, Pas de l'Escalette, Pas de Roland, Pau to Eaux Bonnes and Chaudes, Pau to Lourdes, Pau to Oloron, Pau, I, amusements at, castle of, drives, &c., at, general information, history of, hotels of, Payole, en fete, 136 Peasants and their ways, Peculiar teams, Peguere, the, Pena Blanca, Pene de l'Heris, Pene de Montarque, Perpignan, Perpignan to Amelie, Perpignan to Molitg, Perpignan to Vernet, Perpignan, chief excursions from, hotels at, Peyrehorade, Peyresourde, Col de, Pic d'Antenac, Pic d'Arbizon, Pic d'Ardiden, Pic d'Arrens, Pic d'Aspe, Pic d'Astazou, Pic d'Aubiste, Pic d'Ayre, Pic de Bergons, Pic de Boum, Pic de Bugaret, Pic de Campbieil, Pic de Clarabide, Pic de Crabioules, Pic de Gabietou, Pic de Gabizos, Pic de Gar, Pic de Gaube, Pic de Ger, Pic de Gourzy, Pic de Labassa, Pic du Lac Grand, Pic de Laruns de Lienz de Litouese de Maladetta de Maucapera du Midi d'Arrens (see Pic d'Arrens) du Midi de Bigorre du Midi d'Ossau du Milieu de la Mine de Montaigu (near Bigorre) de Montaigu (near Saint Sauveur) de Neouville de Nere de Nethou Rouge de Pailla de Pez de la Pique de Posets Poujastou Sacroux de Sarradets de Sauvegarde de Soulom de Villelongue de Viscos Picnicking (Pau) Pie de Mars Pierrefitte; hotels at, road to Pietat Pilgrims Pimene, the Pique, valley of Pitton de Tournefort Place Royale, Pau Ste. Eugenie, Biarritz "Plaint of the Weather-beaten Pine," Plateau of the Bious-Artigues Poc (guide) Polygala amara Polygala rosea Pont d'Arrouge de Benques de Crabe de Desdouroucat d'Enfer (near Eaux Chaudes) d'Enfer (near Luz) d'Espagne de la Hiladere de Lestelle de Nadie Napoleon de Pescadere de Ravi de Sia de Villelongue "Poor Pillicoddy," Port de Gavarnie de Peyresourde (see Col de) de la Picade de Venasque Posets, the Peak Post-office (Luz) Potentilla Pragneres Preste-les-Bains; baths and hotels of, Primula farinosa Promenade Horizontale (Bareges) de l'Imperatrice Puyoo Pyramide de Peyrelance Pyrenean dogs prices of treatment of local terms translated, some, songs
Q.
Quairat, Pic Quatre Moulins de Sia
R.
Railway information and skeleton routes to the Pyrenees, Ramondia pyrenaica Ravin d'Araille Rebenac Red tape "Riou," Rioumaou, cascade of "Roads up again," Rocks at Biarritz Rue d'Enfer (Luchon) " de la Fontaine (Pau)
S.
Saint Antoine, chapel of Aventin " Beat " Bernard, statue of " Bertrand de Comminges to Montrejeau " Bertrand de Comminges, " " " " cathedral of " " " " cloisters of " " " " history of St. Christau, " " hotels at " Etienne Jacques Church (Pau) " Jean de Luz " " dogs of " " general information " Laurent de la Salanque " Mamet " " church of " Martin's Church (Pau) " Pe " Pee " Peter's statue (Lourdes) " Pierre St. Sauveur " " baths of " " excursions from " " hotels at " Savin " Vincent's Church (Bigorre) Ste. Marie (near Bigorre) " (near Oloron) " (near St. Laurent) " (near Salechan) " baths of Sakurazawa, memories of Salies Salechan Salluz (Argeles) Salut, avenue of San Sebastian " chief features of, " hotels at Sarsaparilla Sassis (St. Sauveur) Sazos (St. Sauveur) Scabii Sere (Luz) Serres Sevignac Sia " bridge of " Quatre Moulins de Sidonie, cascade of Silver beeches Siradan " valley of Skeleton routes and railway information Sketching advice " with a donkey-cart Snow Some Pyrenean local terms translated Songs, Pyrenean Soulom Soulom, Pic de Soum de Secugnac Sour grapes (Pau) Sourde, valley of Spanish mules and peasants Sport, French "Spring's Bitters and Sweets" Sugar-loaf Mountain (Gavarnie) Superbagneres view from Swine-feeding
T.
Tables of centigrade and Fahrenheit thermometers of centimetres and inches of grammes and ounces of kilometres and miles of litres and pints of metres and feet Taillon, the Tapere (stream) Tarbes road Templars' church at Luz "The Abbe's Song" "The Argeles Shepherd's Reply" The Bishop's arrival The Chaos "The Crocodile of St. Bertrand" The Couradilles "The Guide's Auction" "The Jackdaw's Causerie" "The Jay of Bareges" "The Lady's Farewell to her Asinine Steed" "The Lesson of the Mountains" "The March of the Men of Garlic" "The Organ's Tale" "The Oxen's Appeal" "The Plaint of the Weather-beaten Pine" "The Three Cormorants" The "witch of the hills" "Three Cormorants," the Torrent of Bugaret Toulouse to Perpignan road to Tour des Lacs (Biarritz) Tour de la Monnaie (Pau) Tourmalet, Col de Trained vines Tramesaigues Travellers' troubles Troumouse, Cirque of Trous d'Enfer Tuc de Maupas
U.
Urrugne Ustaritz
V.
Valcabrere Val d'Ossau Valentin (river) Vallee d'Aran d'Arboust d'Argeles d'Aspe d'Aure de Bareges de Barousse de Broussette de Campan de Garonne de Heas de l'Hospice de Lesponne de Lienz de Louron de Luchon history of Vallee du Lutour de Luz du Lys de Marcadau du Neez de la Pique de Seoube de Serris de Siradan de Sourde (or Soude) Valley of the Ten Thousand Rocks (Amoy) Venasque Port de Vernet-les-Bains baths of excursions from hotels at Via Crucis (Betharram) Viella (near Bareges) (near St. Beat) Vieuzac Vignemale, Pic de Villelongue Pic de Villenave Vines trained by the roadside Violets
W.
Washerwomen and their gamps Wonderful echo Wood anemones
Y.
Yankee tale, a
Z.
Zinc mines
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