This evening Graham, as he sat in the chimney corner engrossed in reading, was unconsciously using the ham as a cushion, with the result that an impression of it in salt and grease has been left on the back of his coat.

Saturday, September 14.—A steamer in sight. On the shore we found four of the young men preparing to embark. Repetto said the steamer had got too far for them to catch it, and so it proved.

Monday, September 16.—I have been much struck by the fact that when I have finished dressing Robert's leg a basin of warm water, soap and towel are always brought for my use. Today we set off for a walk along Big Beach, and overtook Mrs. Repetto and her five children. Her husband was out hunting birds and she was going to meet him with something hot to drink. We sat down and had a talk while the children scampered about. After remarking they needed clothes of iron, she went on to say that the present generation of girls do not know what hard work is compared with what those of her generation used to do after the boat was lost. We left her to return home. As we ran down a steep sandy bank, I leading, I heard her parting salutation, "Well done, old girl."

Thursday, September 19.—I asked the women to come early this afternoon to have their voices tried with a view to their taking parts in the hymns. A good many came and seemed to enjoy the novelty. Several will sing alto, which they very quickly picked up. I asked them because I thought they might feel a little out in the cold if the men learnt part-singing and they did not.



About five o'clock the children ran in to say that Graham and the men, who had gone early in the morning to the Penguin Rookery, were returning. They always light a fire on the mountain side to show they are coming back. I started off immediately for Big Beach, Mrs, Repetto and Mrs. Swain coming behind with tea for their husbands. In front were the children leading a donkey to carry the eggs. Before long the men appeared, each with a big box of eggs on his back. The box is enclosed in a sack to which are attached arm-straps. Each box contains about one hundred and fifty eggs and is no light load. The two men gathered the three hundred eggs in about twenty minutes. Repetto thinks that at present about one thousand have been taken from the Rookery this season. When the birds are up for laying the pairs keep together, the hen on the nest and the male standing by. They make a tremendous noise day and night. For our amusement Graham tried to imitate it; standing erect, putting his head up and violently shaking it from side to side, with mouth wide open he tried to utter their "loha." Mrs. Repetto was just then drinking a cup of tea and was very nearly choked.

Tuesday, September 24.—Little Lizzie Rogers is staying with us. She has an intelligent face of rather a gipsy type, with dark brown eyes, and straight hair. We are quite enjoying her company. She is most contented and happy, and has settled down far better than the others did. We have produced a doll for her, and it is delightful to see her mothering it and wrapping it up in her pinafore. She went to sleep with it clasped in her arms.

Martha Green came down this evening to return the sovereign, but of course we would not take it.

Thursday, September 26.—This morning the men pulled out about fifteen miles to a ship, but the captain would not stop for them to go on board. He offered to take the letters, but they were nettled at his not stopping and would not give them to him. It was an Italian ship. As a rule foreign vessels carry very little surplus stock. The men do best on English and American ships. This is the second time our letters have been taken off in vain.

Saturday, September 28.—Our little visitor has just returned home. She wept when her mother told her she must leave us, so we had her back to dinner and now she has finally departed.

Monday, September 30.—At midday a ship was sighted, causing the hasty closing of school and a hurried finishing of letters. It has been a most anxious day. When the men started for the ship there was a comparatively quiet sea, but towards two o'clock there was a squall, a breeze sprang up, and all the afternoon a gale has been blowing, with occasional hailstorms. The sea is covered with white caps and the wind sweeping over it. Every now and then we can see a ring of spray being blown along which is called a "whilly" by the people and is thought to denote danger. The men must be having a very bad time of it. We are anxiously awaiting their return; it is now five o'clock and there is no sign of them.

Wednesday, October 2.—The men never reached the ship. Every one felt very anxious as Monday afternoon wore on. All the men were out but two. Soon after six o'clock when it was beginning to get dark we went on to the cliff. The wind was blowing so hard we could scarcely stand. We met Fred Swain, who said that the two boats were coming round the point from the east. By straining our eyes we could just dimly discern one boat. Hagan now joined us and we stood for some time watching it. It was making for Big Beach, so he and Graham ran off to Little Beach to get pieces of wood for its landing. By the time we got down to the beach it was in and the crew were pulling it up. They were shivering with cold and soon went off home. About the other boat they could tell us nothing except that they believed it was a long way behind. After waiting some time for it Graham and Bob Green went off in search along the shore. At Thomas island they got an answer to their whistle, and came back to tell us the boat was coming. The women meanwhile sat under the lee of a big rock, where presently they lighted a fire and warmed the tea they had brought down. We all felt thankful when, an hour later, the last boat landed. As soon as they had drunk the hot tea we trooped up the cliffs home. The wind blew the lantern out and we had to grope along as best we could by the faint light of a brand. The men did not say much as to how they had got on. But Henry said it was the worst day he had been out in, much worse than the Surrey day, and he is one of those who will go when others will not. Another said he thought every minute they were going to be swamped. We heard later from Repetto that if one wave had broken a few feet nearer it would have done for them. Those in the last boat broke an oar and could make no headway. They tried in vain to put in at another point, and feared they would never get in, but happily the sea went down a little. It was the sweeping sea and the wind coming in gusts that made it so dangerous. It was very cold, too, so that when not rowing the islanders were rendered almost incapable. The next day the sea was quite calm.

Yesterday Maria Green, who is thirteen, came to stay with us. She is the younger daughter of Mrs. H. Green, and is rather a nice-looking girl, with dark wavy hair and a fairish skin. She is always spick-and-span, never so much as a hair out of its place. Naturally she is very shy, and I think, though she wanted to visit us, the coming was a great effort to her. But now that the plunge has been made I hope she finds it less alarming than she expected. She helps Ellen a good deal, and this keeps her occupied and makes her less shy.

Nearly every man has been out on the mountain today in search of molly eggs. Only one egg is found in a nest, and yet Glass on Saturday got one hundred and sixty-two. In time, I fear, these beautiful birds will be driven from the island.

Saturday, October 5.—I spent the morning gardening and in the afternon went to meet Graham, who with John Glass and his wife, Johnny Lavarello, Maria Green and Mary Repetto had been to the ponds. They had thoroughly enjoyed the day, the children especially, as they had not been there before. All, except Graham, were laden with molly eggs stowed away in their shirt or blouse which is sewn into a pouch for the occasion, a mode of carrying which gave them a very comical appearance. The birds are quite tame, only giving a peck when pushed off the nest.

Tuesday, October 8.—We are having a week's holiday. Yesterday morning I said to little Ned Green, "Boys in England wash their neck, arms and chest every day. You come one morning and Mr. Barrow will show you how to do the same." He turned away his head and said, "I'm skeered." This morning before we were up he was waiting in the porch, and then came in and sat on the sofa until Graham was ready for him. As it was rather a wet morning the instructions were given indoors. I heard most lively conversation going on during the process. He was rewarded with a biscuit which he took home to his little sister.

Idioms are little used here. I said yesterday to Ned, who was minding some goslings, "You have got your hands full," when I saw him look down and open his hand. The goslings are as much trouble to raise here as turkeys are at home. They have, at first, to be watched all day long for fear of their getting wet, and then there is always the danger of their being carried away by the stream. If it rains they are often driven into the sitting-room. Geese and eggs are the women's chief contributions to trade.

Mrs. H. Green has not been so well again. I went up today to try to get her to come to dinner. She did not want to, but I said I was not going without her. This amused her and at last she got up and went to put her things on, though she said she was so weak she could hardly walk. When I was sitting alone with her she told me that a few months ago something had been said to her which she could not get off her mind. She has a strong superstition about it. The people here believe that a person has the power to will evil to others. A man who has been to the Cape told us one evening that he was quite sure that the Malays had the power to make a person lame by putting something on the doorstep, and that no one could effect a cure except a Malay doctor.



CHAPTER XXIII

Wednesday, October 9.—We were aroused from our slumbers this morning by Charlie Green hammering at the door, and on inquiry heard there was a ship in sight. It was a most beautiful day and the sea like a mill-pond. The men said before they started they were sure the ship was a whaler; and they were right. The people, expecting visitors, set to work to scrub their floors. In the course of the morning the first mate, a coloured man, landed with a mail from St. Helena. There were only three letters in it. One was from the Bishop. There seems now no prospect of his coming while we are here. Our men only did fairly well on the whaler, which, however, was well supplied with potatoes, having taken in a supply at St. Helena only seventeen days ago. The captain and his wife kindly sent us a bunch of bananas and a large tin of grape-nuts.

Thursday, October 10.—This afternoon we took the Repetto girls, Maria and Sophy, who are staying with us, for a picnic. We made for a grassy slope near Bugsby Hole, the children gathering sticks for the fire as we went. They came upon a poor little lamb that had just been killed by a sea-hen. Near it was another which a sea-hen was just pouncing upon. They had been deserted by the mother, a thing which often happens here. The children picked up the lamb, which could hardly have been a day old, and we wrapped it in my jacket and gave it some warm milk. It was decided that Mary should be the happy possessor of it. As we were at tea three rats were unearthed. One, a big fellow, sprang down close to us. There were shrieks from the children and the tea was upset, but Rob soon caught him.

Friday, October 11.—The lamb died this morning. Repetto says it was famished before we found it.

Monday, October 14.—Quite a bitter day. Hail has been falling. Susan Repetto, who lives with her Aunt Betty Cotton, is with us this week. She has a wonderful crop of curly hair which, except on Sundays when her mother wets and curls it, is done up in a tight little knob. She is quick and full of fun, laughing more than any child on the island.

Wednesday, October 23.—The Lavarellos are serving us this week, and insist upon bringing each morning a small bucket of milk and a jugful at night. We have been able to make some excellent butter, so yellow that the cows might have been feeding on buttercups, of which, however, we have seen only one small patch. Milk puddings are our daily regime. There has been no shortness this year.

Friday, October 25.—A mollyhawk was brought in today, it weighed four pounds and measured from tip of beak to tip of tail thirty inches, from tip of wing to tip of wing seventy-eight, and in girth twenty. The bird cannot rise up from level ground, but must get to the edge of a cliff or hill, unless helped by the wind.

Cricket is being much played by the boys. Ben intensely enjoys a game, and it is wonderful how he manages to hold a bat and hit. He has to lie on the ground to pick up a ball.

Sunday, October 27.—We went to see Betty Cotton, who is laid up with a bad rheumatic attack. Reposing in a canvas chair she was holding quite a levee, and I think enjoyed being the centre of so much attention.

We find the north wind rather trying; it is enervating and brings with it much dampness; while it prevails food does not keep well.

Monday, October 28.—This has been a thoroughly wet day. The children think nothing of wet and will sit the whole day in damp clothes. Umbrellas are almost useless and so I have taken to the people's way of wearing a shawl over the head.

We went across to see Miss Cotton. Her room, which serves as sitting-room and bedroom, looked most comfortless. To add to the discomfort there were sixteen goslings hemmed in by boxes in a corner near the door. If they were allowed out on a day like this it would kill the greater part of them.

Thursday, October 31.—Another wet day, but people in and out notwithstanding. It cleared up in the evening and we went for a turn on the cliffs. The houses looked so picturesque silhouetted against a stormy sky.

Saturday, November 2.—One of Henry's bullocks was operated on this afternoon with the help of five or six men. It was very wild and they had difficulty in getting it in. They threw it by means of a rope and then tied its legs. It had something growing inside its lower lip like a wart which prevented its eating, and this they have removed. They have successfully performed the same operation on other bullocks.

Monday, November 4.—This afternoon there was a cricket match between the boys and girls, the former playing left-handed. Needless to say, the girls were beaten. The men looked on with interest and later had a game themselves, and very lively cricket it was. They may go off any day now to Inaccessible, and are only waiting for the right wind. They generally visit it once or twice a year. Graham means to go with them as he is anxious to see the island.



CHAPTER XXIV

Tuesday, November 5.—About five o'clock this morning a gun was fired to signify that the men were going off to Inaccessible. Soon after Tom Rogers looked in to say they were starting in about an hour's time. We packed into a large tin flour, captain's biscuits, tea, coffee and sugar for Graham; Tom was taking meat, and Ellen ran down at the last moment with bread hot from the oven. They went off in three boats, cheering lustily. I believe they hope to do some sealing. It depends entirely on the wind as to when they return; they might be kept a fortnight.

Thursday, November 7.—I am taking school in Graham's absence, the elder girls helping with the infants. If the scholars are tiresome or heedless I just make them hold out their hand, and with a slap from mine they are soon reduced to order. When they are reading they are not allowed to lift up their eyes from their books, and now it is rarely they lose their place.

Saturday, November 9.—The men have not yet returned. They have had very wet weather since they left, and must have had a trying time. I hope they have enough to eat. On the occasion of a former visit there they were delayed so long that they ran short of food and were nearly starved. When at last they got back one young fellow fainted. Since then they have been careful to take more food with them and have put one or two sheep on the island and have sown potatoes.

Sunday, November 10.—Mrs. Green has come to stay with us again; she has been lying outside in the canvas chair for seven hours and feels the better for it. The children are very attached to their mother, and one and another visit her during the day. Her mother's eye at once detects a button off or whatever is amiss.

The services were well attended to-day, only five persons being absent morning and afternoon.

It is a quiet evening, but occasionally the sea sounds like a passing train; at other times we hear it thundering on the shore. We do not get such high waves, but what I call long sweeping seas. I have been taking the meteorological observations; I hope correctly.

Monday, November ll.—When school was half over old Mrs. Rogers rushed in to say the boats were returning from Inaccessible. When I got down to the beach they were ready to land. There was so much surf that they had to wait for a favourable moment and then had to pull hard to get in before the next wave broke. The landing of the three took quite a time, and they had a good tossing while awaiting their turn. The men are very cheerful and seem to have enjoyed themselves in spite of the wet. After the first day they were not able to leave Salt Beach on which they landed. That afternoon they went round by boat to where the Blendon Hall was wrecked, as they knew how anxious Graham was to see the spot. He, unfortunately, was feeling horribly sea-sick and unable to do much, but he went with them. They picked up some copper and a piece of wood from the wreck. The cliffs of the island are most precipitous, and from Salt Beach they can only be scaled by holding on to the tussock grass, but the weather was too wet for them to attempt this. I am glad they could not try, for Henry Green told me it was rather an "ugly business" at best of times. There was no sand and they lay at night under the overturned boat on a pebbly beach softened by layers of tussock grass. Graham said after five nights of it he felt quite sore. They seem to have spent more than half their time under the boats. One day it rained all day, and the only variety they had was to stand under the cliffs where the rain dripped down upon them. Another day they had some cricket, using for a ball a bit of kelp. Under the boats they played draughts; an upturned box serving for table and board, kelp for the black pieces, and sliced potatoes for the white. They were able to get a few petrel's eggs, but digging these out of the nest-holes was wet and muddy work.

Each man took so much flour, potatoes and meat which he handed over to the cook. Andrew Swain and Bob Green undertook the work, the former being head cook, and Graham says the cooking was excellent; not that he was able to eat much himself for he was still feeling the effects of the sea. The cooks were kept going most of the day. At one meal there was a great laugh against them. As each man sipped his tea he found it nauseously salt. The water had been taken from the wrong bucket, the one that contained salt water for washing up.

On Sunday they had two services, all sitting round on the stones. They sang every hymn and chant they could think of.

Sam Swain left his dog on Inaccessible. It had taken to killing geese, and as he did not like to shoot it he decided to leave it there where it will be able to get plenty of food. Poor dog, it swam after the boats when they left. The party tried to return on Friday, but after being out two hours had to go back as they could make no headway owing to a north wind.

Thursday, November l4.—Yesterday, after early school, Graham and Repetto went off to the Hardies in search of some wood-pigeons' eggs. This is a sea-bird in spite of its land-sounding name. They had to swim to a high rock standing a little distance from the shore with a deep channel between, and to climb to the top of it. Swimming back Graham found the current so strong he thought it wiser to return. They tried another way and got across without difficulty. It was rather too early for eggs and they only found one; but they satisfied themselves as to the identification of the egg.

Saturday, November 16.—As we have broken the last chimney-glass of our best lamp, we have been going to bed early this week, and getting up at five—a change which has the advantage of enabling us to get through more work before school, and giving much more time on baking mornings. We hope to get a glass from a passing ship, but only three have been boarded since March, one of them being a whaler.



It is such a pretty sight to see the sheep being driven down the hill and separating to the different sheep-houses. But the poor things are often very harassed by the dogs, many of which are quite untrained and run them far too fast, and will, if they can get the opportunity, catch hold of them. The sheep often turn obstinate and try to slip off up the hill. Some get into the wrong houses and have to be dragged out and home by the owners. These houses are generally deep in mud and filth.

Thursday, November 21.—The rats have been eating the sunflower and sweet pea seeds. I could detect the mark of their feet, and the shells of the seeds are lying on the top of the bed.

I have started sketching, thinking it will interest those at home to see what this place is like.

The children have come in to play a round game. Two were in last night, so I said we could not have them again to-night. Tears came into the eyes of Martha Repetto, whereupon I relented, and four of them are now in full swing. There is just room for us all at the table.

The men have gone to Seal Bay, walking over the mountain. When they were there the other day they found the so-called wild cattle in such poor condition that they mean to try to drive them across a ravine to a place where there is better pasture.

Wednesday, November 27.—Repetto has just been in. He enjoys having a talk, but he generally comes with something he has either made or mended for us. This time he has brought a capital pastry-board made out of one of the cases.

There are some very young pupils at school just now. They spend part of their time sleeping, and are nursed by us or by one of the elder girls. One of them is rather spoilt at home, and the discipline of having to sit still and not talk has already done him good. The children are getting on so well. Susan Repetto, who is eight, could not write a letter of the alphabet eighteen months ago, but can now do fairly difficult dictation. Yesterday she had no mistake in it. What about the arithmetic? Ah! there is not much improvement there. One small boy has for months been learning to add two and two together and invariably gets it wrong, though sometimes he gets other figures right. Some of the elder girls make very good figures, and the greater part are writing a good hand. They write letters daily on their slates together with the address of the person to whom the letter is written.

Saturday, November 30.—Yesterday Repetto and Henry Green started making a larder for us. It is being built of large blocks of soft stone and is to be on a line with the porch. There have been many consultations over it. The difficulty is to get the wood for the roof. We shall be so thankful to have a place to keep our food in. Up to the present we have had to keep the milk, which is set in a large pan to cream, on a small table in the corner of the sitting-room with the butter and eggs.

Tuesday, December 3.—A whaler in sight! We have been trying to send off our letters ever since September. The people say it is many a year since they have had such a bad time for ships, and Repetto says it is the worst year since he has been on the island.

Walter Swain, who was here last year, has landed from the whaler. The captain has ordered 500 lbs. of beef and a quantity of potatoes, but these latter are scarce; he offers in exchange flour, soap, molasses, and calico.

Wednesday, December 4.—We were asked to tea today to the Sam Swain's to meet the visitor and were to choose our own hour, so we settled upon four, there being a service at five. Walter Swain has sailed all over the world; his home is at New Bedford. He is, I believe, a first-rate harpooner and makes a good deal by his skill. He says he has already made 800 dollars during the year, and, of course, will make still more before he gets home. We are sending our letters by this whaler as Walter says he will very likely be able to transfer them to a passing steamer, failing that, he will post them at St. Helena two or three months hence. I have about sixteen to send off.

We are already talking of the possible arrival of Mr. Keytel.

A holiday in honour of the presence of the whaler has given an opportunity for weeding the garden. In the midst of a clump of Love-in-a-mist a hen has been daily laying her eggs and now wants to sit there, but that cannot be allowed.

This has been a splendid day for going out to the ship. The captain, a coloured man, was very kind and most fair, in fact, he seems to have given good measure running over. Six barrels of flour and over one hundred pounds of soap have come ashore. The men came back in a most jubilant mood, we could hear in the house their singing as they neared the shore. Mrs. Lavarello brought us some ship biscuits, of which she got a bushel and a half in exchange for a goose.

Tuesday, December 10.—Our little visitor this week is Florence Swain. She had set her heart upon coming and has been asking her mother for weeks when her turn would be.

Wednesday, December 11.—Today for the wives of Henry Green and Repetto, who have been working hard at the larder, we made up packets of grocery containing tea, sugar, sultanas, pepper, cheese, candles, and soap.

Friday, December 13.—Towards the end of school there was a cry of "Sail, ho!" The ship is thought to be another whaler.

Last night I planted out nearly fifty sunflowers in one bed, so there ought to be a blaze of colour. Our wheat is coming on well. Miss Cotton has a supper to-night for the men who have been working for her. It was announced by Bob Green getting on to the roof of the house and shouting out.

The men returned this evening from the whaler, from which they have got more flour and material. Repetto got some material for us; but it is poor stuff and rather expensive.



CHAPTER XXV

Monday, December l6.—Every one is busy preparing for Christmas. There's much blueing and starching of clothes. We were up early as we have started house-cleaning.

Tuesday, December l7.—The kitchen was whitewashed before breakfast, and the passage this afternoon.

This time of year it is necessary to water the garden every night, the ground dries so quickly. The children come and do it for us and weed and sweep.

The larder is not altogether a success. Though it has a fair amount of ventilation it is rather stuffy.

Here is a list of some books which were given to William on the whaler the other day: Plutarch's Lives of Alcibiades and Coriolanus; Trips to the Moon, by Lucian; Voyagers' Tales, by Richard Hakluyt; Areopagitica, by Milton; Lives of English Poets, Banquet of Plato, and the Light of Asia, by Sir E. Arnold. One would hardly expect to find such books on a whaler.

Friday, December 20.—We are sitting in our "parlour," which is bespattered with whitewash and its furniture covered with sheets and paper, and must resign ourselves to a day or two of this mode of living, as parts of the room will most likely have to be whitewashed again. We hope the wind will veer round to the west, so that the room may dry. At present a north wind is blowing, which makes the walls oozy with damp and the atmosphere very steamy. We get a good deal of this unpleasant wind at this time of the year, together with heavy mists at sea.

Christmas Eve.—I went up to the church and found Sam Swain and his girls decorating it, as last year, with willow branches and pink roses. A wreath had been made for the centre of the ceiling.

Christmas Day.—This morning there were twenty-four present at the Holy Communion. There were also services at 10:30 and 3 o'clock.

The Repettos and little Joe spent the evening with us.

Thursday, December 26.—We have had a restful day. Little Clara Swain had begged to come and stay with us, so today she came. At supper she began to shed a few tears, and wanted to go home to her mother. Later I took her home. When she got there she was rather ashamed and hid her face in the sofa all the time half laughing.

New Year's Eve.—A mild type of influenza is going the round, caught no doubt on a whaler. In the fo'c'sle of one a man was seen wrapped up in a blanket who was perhaps suffering from it.

I can imagine as I sit here the bells at home ringing out the old year. I earnestly hope this coming year we may be able to do more in helping the people "upward."

New Year's Day, 1908.—We were astir early and had service at 8:30.

New Year's Day is made as much of as Christmas Day in that the people wear their best clothes, keep holiday and have a special dinner. We have had a nice quiet day, digging, reading and sketching. Sketching, as may readily be imagined, is often done under difficulties.

Saturday, January 11.—The expected schooner is ever a subject of conversation with the elders. We are beginning to feel doubtful as to its coming. The people are very hopeful, always having the feeling that if one thing does not turn up another will.

Sunday, January 12.—I was taking a stroll this afternoon and in crossing a rivulet stepped on a stone which toppled over, and I fell in. My white serge skirt, which had just been washed, was caked with mud.

Wednesday, January 15.—We have had high winds the last day or two and last night had quite a gale, the wind coming in strong gusts all night long. The garden has suffered considerably. The children lament over the destruction and go round propping up plants of their own accord.

Sunday, January 19.—We have lost our last Cape canary through moulting; he was a beautiful singer. Yesterday afternoon we went some way up the mountain just above the settlement. We walked for some distance up the Goat Ridge, crossed a ravine to our left, and then got on to what is called the Pinnacle, where we had a view which was awe-inspiring. There lay before us two or three yawning chasms stretching away down the mountain side. I hardly liked to look at them. One was Hottentot Gulch, whose sides, here bare, there dotted with trees or ferns, went down sheer a thousand or more feet. When on higher ground and looking at the expanse of ocean one realizes more than ever how we are cut off from the rest of the world.

Tuesday, January 21.—It is Lizzie Rogers' sixth birthday. She was very anxious to bring a present, and went round to try to get half-a-dozen eggs. Not being able to procure these, she brought us some cooked meat for supper. After having a game I sent her home, but she appeared again when her mother brought the milk. I did not know till afterwards that she wanted to stay the night and that her mother had literally to drag her away, poor little thing. She has long black eyelashes, from under which she looks out at one with a shy trusting look which is quite charming.



We had Betty Cotton and three of her contemporaries in to tea to-day and had quite a recherche meal for them, chocolate mould and some dainty little scones. Most of the people are out of tea, so a cup of it is a treat to them. They stayed three hours, talking chiefly of old times and shipwrecks. One of their favourite stories is of a captain who lashed his wife and child to the rigging and then swam ashore through the breakers. But instead of remaining on the beach near the foundering ship so as to be at hand to help and rescue them he went off to the settlement five miles away and comfortably slept through the night, leaving the islanders to do the watching and rescuing. Our visitors always come in their best attire, and they like being invited into the inner parlour. Mrs. Martha Green went home and returned with a dozen and a half eggs.

Thursday, January 23.—The poor penguins that land on this shore to moult have but a short life, for the dogs hunt them out at once. The other day we rescued one from Rob, who was dragging it from a small cave. It ran back and Graham piled up large stones at the mouth so that no dog could get at it. Each morning on our way to bathe we had a look at it and could see its white breast close to the aperture. But alas! one morning we found the bird gone. A boy had broken down the wall and his dog had killed the penguin. While penguins are moulting they require no other food than that with which Nature has provided them in a store of oil from which they can draw.

Sunday, January 26.—The Repettos have been here this evening. They had some difficulty in getting in, for Rob saw them and took his stand on the doorstep, his hair bristling; they went round to the front and he ran round the other way to meet them. They are so kind to him he ought to have behaved better, but he does not approve of any one coming in the evening. We read aloud Mr. Peck's Diary, Two Years in Baffin Land in the Intelligencer, and they were much interested. They like coming and we are only too pleased to see them.

Tuesday, January 28.—I think every one is now giving up all hope of seeing the schooner.

To-day John Glass and his wife gave a dinner to the whole island in honour of their one-year-old son. Ellen and I went. Everything was excellently arranged. We began with stuffed meat which was really very well cooked, then followed open berry-tarts with twisted bars across, open apple-tarts, and berry-pudding served with cream.

Yesterday Bob Green took Graham for a long-promised outing to the Caves, a spot in the mountain just above Big Beach and about a third of the way up to the Base. At one point, considered very dangerous because if a step is missed there must be a deadly fall, he insisted on roping him. We watched them with much interest both going and returning, as they wound their way in and out.



CHAPTER XXVI

Thursday, January 30.—A small vessel has just been sighted. It looks so small that every one is wondering what it possibly can be. It is being well scanned through the telescope and is seen to be flying an English flag; in answer Repetto has run up ours. We have a faint hope that it may be bringing the mail. Later we sat for a long time on the cliff watching. One of our boats went out but could not board her, for fear of being swamped. The vessel tacked, and when it got near our boat again dropped a bottle into the sea for our men. In it was a letter from the Captain saying that he wanted some fresh meat and other things and that he would come in again early to-morrow. The men think it must be a sealer.

Friday, January 31.—No vessel appeared and we think it may have gone for good.

Saturday, February 1.—Early this morning the small vessel was again seen in the far distance and some hours later a boat from it landed the Captain's brother and two of the crew. The two latter were brought to us at the school. As they spoke only French the islanders did not know what else to do with them. I tried to carry on a conversation with them and learnt they were going to Kerguelen Island for sealing. They wanted to know if it was not rather "ennuyeux" here. The Captain's brother went to Repetto to arrange business and was afterwards brought to us. Meanwhile another vessel had been sighted and the men drew lots who should go out to it. Monsieur Rallier du Baty stayed and had lunch with us. He was such a pleasant gentlemanly man and most easy to talk to. I never talked so much French to any one before. Sometimes I got grounded. I understood him to say that his ship was being sent out by the French Government to Kerguelen for scientific research, that they intend staying there a year, and that they also hope to do some sealing. They had named their boat the J. B. Charcot, after Dr. Charcot, with whom one of them had been on an Antarctic expedition. Graham asked him about two meteorological instruments which he has not been quite sure how to set, and he has very kindly showed him how to set them. M. Rallier told us after they left Cherbourg they met with very bad weather and had to put in to Brixham for repairs, by which they were delayed three weeks. From there they went on to Madeira, then to Rio Janeiro, and next touched here. He was much interested to know what had brought us to Tristan. He knew about the wreck of the Blendon Hall and had passed close to Inaccessible to view the scene of the wreck.

Our men boarded the other ship sighted, which proved to be a Norwegian one bound for Adelaide.

Monday, February 3.—On Saturday evening Repetto came in with some things which the French captain had very kindly sent us—potted meat, a tin of butter, jam which he specially sent word was from England, and also carrot, leek and onion seeds, which are particularly acceptable.

A ship was seen to-day, but the men did not go out. It came close in and I think the men were sorry afterwards they had not gone to it.

Friday, February 7.—Yesterday Graham and Alfred began to cut the corn, and to-day, taking a holiday, finished it. I bound the sheaves and stood them up in shocks.

Part of the morning I spent in butter-making. I found the best method was to work with the churn standing in the stream, and after the butter came and was washed to leave it standing there. The result was very firm, good butter. As a rule Ellen does the churning.

This afternoon was given to threshing wheat and a very slow process it was. A sail was spread in the field and I and the older boys tried to beat and rub the wheat out. In olden days the people threshed in their sitting-rooms. We also did a little winnowing, throwing the wheat up for the wind to blow the chaff away. I should think all our efforts did not produce more than a quarter of a bushel.

Just now the men are busy digging potatoes. They are finding a good deal of disease in them, but probably will have enough to last through the season, as they always sow more than they require.

Sunday, February 9.—The other day at school a short piece from Mr. Peck's journal was read to the children, who were told to write out what they could remember of it. One little girl of nine began, "Mr. Peck live in a bag." The fur bag that he slept in interested them far more than anything else. The Sunday class of girls is very well attended, no girl staying away unless ill. It is difficult to get replies from some of them, but there are one or two who give very intelligent answers.

Tuesday, February 11.—It is a thick misty day, but a ship is coming in. The men have had such a rush to get off, some having run all the way from the Potato patches and arriving on the beach in a great state of heat. In a few minutes others appeared just as the second boat was going off, one so breathless he could not speak. But after all their efforts they failed to reach the ship, which kept too far out.

Wednesday, February 12.—Last Saturday all the school-children were turned into the wheat-field to help to thresh the wheat. Flails had been made by tying pieces of wood to cricket stumps. The boys beat the sheaves with great energy, especially the younger ones. Graham and I have spent our whole afternoon in threshing and he is now winnowing by moonlight.

Monday, February 17.—On Friday afternoon with the girls' help we finished threshing the wheat and the next day winnowed it.

Tuesday, February 18.—Mrs. Andrew Swain brought us this evening a few apples and four peaches. These are the first peaches we have seen; they are green, but will soon ripen. Her husband brought about half a bushel home, but the trees rarely bear; probably they are too old.

We had seriously thought this week of camping out near the ponds. For a tent we should have taken an old sail. The weather, however, has become so unsettled we have given up the idea.

Thursday, February 20.—Graham ground a little wheat yesterday between two stones and I made a loaf of it, which he says is the best brown bread he has ever tasted.

We have just been taking a turn in the dusk, and on the way called at the Repettos' to find out the name of the owners of the Greta Holme, the steamer which has been here more than once. We think we may perhaps get it to call for us to take us home.

Monday, February 24.—It is such a quiet evening, the lamps are lit and the windows are wide open and we can plainly hear the gurgling of the stream outside.

On Saturday Charlie Green came in to say that he and his mother wish to go back to their house. It is the one in which we hold church and school. After hearing what he had to say we told him to ask his mother to come and see us to-day, which she has done. She feels she must go back to her house and would like to move into it this week, and we feel we cannot say anything against it, for this is the fourth time she has given it up for the same purpose.

Wednesday, February 26.—A meeting took place this morning at 7.30 to consider where church and school are now to be held. Lavarello first offered for his mother-in-law, Mary Glass, her room for school. Then followed a discussion as to where service should be held. Finally Repetto said they would be willing to give up their house entirely for church and school, they themselves living in the adjoining cottage, if they could put two of the girls out to sleep. It was agreed that if this could be arranged the school should be there.

We offered to Mrs. Repetto to take her two elder girls, but she had arranged for them to go to her mother. It is a sacrifice to the Repettos to give up their house, for they take real pride in it and they go out at great personal inconvenience, for they will have to live in two small rooms, one of which is his workshop. She spoke very nicely about it, saying they were doing it for God. She also spoke warmly of the Sunday services and said she could not think how any one could sit in church and not be touched by them. Nothing but illness keeps her away.

At the meeting the men agreed to build a church, and spoke of beginning it when the potato digging is over. They will put up the stonework and leave the roof till the next clergyman comes, and say they will put no fire-place in it and then no one can use it as a house. As there is no house for school we are having a holiday. We went yesterday to pack up the school things and found the men already at work putting up the partitions. Mrs. Green will benefit by the new window-panes and we are glad she should. We have enough left for the rooms into which the Repettos are going.



Friday, February 28.—Men are working at Repetto's house to turn it into the school-chapel. This house is really the church of the island, as its history shows. It was built by a man named William Daley for himself. When Mr. Taylor the clergyman came it was bought for his church. It was valued at twenty-seven pounds, and nine men each gave three pounds. The nine were Corporal Glass, Alexander Cotton, Thomas Hill Swain, Peter Green, Richard Riley, Andrew Hagan, Charles Taylor, Peter Mellor(?), and William Daley, the owner. When Mr. Taylor left he told the people who remained they could do what they liked with the church. Thereupon the nine buyers or their representatives each claimed a three-pound share in it. The claim to these shares has been handed down. Miss Cotton claims one from her father, Martha Green one from her husband, the mother of Sam Swain, senior, one. But Matilda Hagan, the daughter of Peter Green, is said to claim the most.

Repetto's workshop has been cleaned out, floored, and whitewashed, and looks quite nice. The ceiling is very low, so I have exhorted them to have their bedroom window open at night as she feels the need of air since her heart-attacks. He has just brought in a large bureau made by himself and which he has asked us to house. Our room is already packed, but we have been able to find a place for it by turning out a table which will be useful at school.

Saturday, February 29.—To-day all the men, with the exception of three, went off to Inaccessible for sealing. We are now having beautiful weather.

Tuesday, March 3.—To-day a ship was in sight and we were regretting there was no boat to go out to her, all four having been taken to Inaccessible. But presently we heard that two boats from Inaccessible were to be seen in the distance. These got alongside the ship, which was an Italian one, but the captain would not stop. All the men have now returned. They secured eleven seals and think they could have got more, but were afraid to stay longer for fear of missing ships. They brought some plants back.

Ash-Wednesday, March 4.—All the men and a good many women went off to-day in three boats to Sandy Point to gather apples and are spending the night there.

Caroline Swain came to tea.

Thursday, March 5.—We have begun daily service and hope to continue it as long as we are here.

It was too breezy for the boats to come back to-day, so most of the people have walked home. It is quite a ten miles' walk, a part of it over great boulders along the shore and a part over Big Point, where there is an ugly bit of climbing to be done. It took them about seven hours. Mrs. Repetto says it is the last time she shall do it.

With daily service at 9 o'clock it is rather a rush, and this morning I had baking on hand; the dough had risen so that it had poured over the tin like so much froth and I had to gather it up and re-knead it. I had to start baking it before church and when I got back the fire was nearly out.

Tuesday, March 10.—About midday a big ship appeared on the horizon opposite the settlement. The men started out and seemed confident of reaching her, though at times she could not be seen. They have not yet returned, though it is nearly 8 o'clock. It is always so interesting to hear how they have fared, and, of course, it is the one excitement and variety in the life here.

8.45.—We have just heard the whistle of the returning boats, and, as usual, the dogs have started barking.

Wednesday, March 11.—The ship was a Scotch one bound for Australia and had come out from London in forty-one days. The captain seemed a kind man and allowed the men several hours on board. He sent Graham two books, Milton's poems was one, and asked him to write to him, which, of course, he will do.

Thursday, March 12.—We are having a spell of wet weather. It is difficult to keep dryshod going backwards and forwards to school. The new school-house is a little nearer than the old, but there is no track and the long bents in the grass are very wetting. Happily we are not short of boots and shoes.

We went this afternoon for a short walk and passed a rock the shape of an arm-chair, and called Glass's arm-chair. When he was old the Corporal used to find his way to this seat, which overlooks Big Beach and commands a good view of the sea.

A few weeks ago we put on our clocks an hour, thinking to get an extra hour of daylight, but we find the plan does not answer and have had to put them back again. The people got up no earlier and the result was that some of the boys and girls came to school without any breakfast.

Wednesday, March l8.—This afternoon Graham went for a nine miles' walk with Arthur Repetto and came across two donkeys that had been tethered at the Bluff since yesterday morning and had nothing to eat. One could only move a foot or two, the rope having got wound round its leg. They moved them to fresh ground, but could find no water to give them. The riders had walked over to Seal Bay. A boat went there two days ago for feathers and oil, but has not been able to return for want of the right wind.

Thursday, March 19.—The Greens sent us some beautiful large apples from their orchard at the Bay. All the apples are a better size this year owing to having been picked a month later.



CHAPTER XXVII

Thursday, March 26.—The event of events has happened, the Greyhound has come. It was first seen when we were in church on Sunday morning. Two boats went out to her and in the afternoon returned with Mr. Keytel, seventeen persons from the Cape, and the mail. Hearing Mr. Keytel had landed Graham and I sallied forth to greet him. He was looking very cheerful and well, and was accompanied by two large dogs. The mail-bags were soon brought to the house. But Mr. Keytel said before anything was done he must show us the photographs which he took when here last year. We looked at them with the greatest interest and thought them excellent. We then went to service, and after it, came back and opened the mail in a crowded room. It was a large mail and took some time to dispose of. Mr. Keytel had much to tell us. He had had great difficulties to contend with, as everything seemed against his coming.

Now a few words about the people he has brought with him. Three of them, Joe Glass, Bob Glass and Jim Hagan, were born on the island and left it as young men about fifteen years ago. In South Africa they married three white women, sisters. With their wives and children they number sixteen. The seventeenth, a young unmarried man named Joe Hagan, was also born here. I do not think the greater part of the islanders are particularly pleased at this invasion.



On Monday the boats made several journeys to the schooner and got on well with the unloading. Nothing more is to be done until Mr. Keytel has visited Gough Island. He expects to be away about a fortnight. On Tuesday morning the schooner came in well, and all were on the shore ready to embark for Gough Island, which is about two hundred miles to the south-east. Mr. Keytel was keen upon Graham going, and as nearly all our men are going and he may not have such an opportunity again he decided to accept his kind offer and go. By the time the boats were launched the schooner began to move further out, the sea waking up a little. Before long she was lost to sight and after a vain chase the three boats came back. It was most trying for Mr. Keytel, for every day lost is a consideration to him.

The Repettos are very much upset because some of the new-comers are trying to take their house. Yesterday just before embarking two of them threateningly said they meant to have it, and one took off his coat to fight Repetto. This is the house whose ownership is disputed, several people claiming shares in it, the mother of the young man who wanted to fight claiming the most. She used to live in it and when she left the island begged the Repettos to leave the one in which they were living and to go into hers and take care of it for her. The young man has not produced any letter or paper from his mother to the effect that she wishes the Repettos to give up occupation. We have told the Repettos they need not be afraid and that if they do not retaliate Graham and Mr. Keytel will stand by them and see that right is done.

Friday, March 27.—The winds are still against the schooner putting in.

One of the Bob Glass children has been seriously ill and delirious, the result it is thought of a fall or a sunstroke. I went to see it and advised a dose of castor-oil. Going again in the afternoon I found the child up and standing outside the front door, apparently well. The mother had been up all night and quite thought she was going to lose him.

Saturday, March 28.—To-day matters came to a climax about the Repettos' house. The two men started taking possession by mending a hole in the roof. Ellen pointed them out to me as we were coming home from church. I thought I had better go back and let Graham know what they were doing. He went out at once and asked them if they had Repetto's leave to do the work. They said, "No." "Then," said Graham, "I cannot let you do it." Meanwhile as I passed the door Repetto said he had something he wanted to show me, would I come in. I could see they were both very upset. Soon John Glass, who had been helping the men on the roof, came in looking, I thought, a little ashamed. I told him he had made a mistake in having anything to do with the business, and said, "How would you like it if some one were to come and work on your roof without asking you first?" He said he would not like it. I told him the best thing he could do was to go home and have nothing more to do with it, and he went. Then his brother, Joe Glass, who was really the instigator of it all, came and looked over the door. I gave him, too, a piece of my mind, and after a time he went away. Presently the young man appeared looking very menacing. He walked up to his cousin, Mrs. Repetto, showing his fists. I was dreadfully afraid she might lose her temper and strike him, and then I do not know what might have happened. I rushed off for Graham, who was taking school, and he came at once. He told the young man if he could satisfy him that he had his mother's authority to take the house he should have it, after the Repettos had been given a reasonable time to find another. If he could not so satisfy him then the Repettos would remain in possession. He went on to say he was here as a clergyman with the knowledge and consent of the Government; that it was his duty to do his best to prevent any breach of the peace and that he intended to do so. He would see that justice was done just as a magistrate would. He warned him and all that if there were any further disturbance those causing it would run the risk of being sent from the island, for he should report the whole matter to the Government. Things now began to calm down and Graham went back to school. Poor Mrs. Repetto had quite broken down, and at sight of her it was as much as her husband could do to keep his temper. But they spoke very nicely to the young man and said if he had a paper from his mother saying he was to have the house, of course they would give it up; and if he liked they would give up their bedroom to him in any case. Then Repetto went outside with him and said he wanted to be his friend, not his enemy. Finally the young man came back and said he was very sorry for the way he had behaved and that they should hear no more about the house, and went up and kissed Mrs. Repetto and her mother. Then he shook hands with me and said how sorry he was and that there should be no more trouble. The Repettos said to me afterwards we have never seen anything like this before on the island, asking for forgiveness as he did. If there had been any angry words in the first instance from them there would no doubt have been a fight.

Tuesday, March 3l.—The men have all been busy to-day roofing a small empty one-roomed house for Joe Glass which Andrew Hagan is said to have sold him for L10.

This afternoon Graham and Mr. Keytel have been looking at a small disused house near here which Henry Green uses as a lamb-house, and which Mr. Keytel thinks will do for him if Henry will let him have it. Till a house is ready for him he will, I hope, remain with us.

The schooner, which has been out a week, has not yet been seen.

Wednesday, April 1.—She has been sighted this afternoon. A day or two ago there was a gale, which probably blew her a long way out. The poor captain must be having rather a bad time.

Thursday, April 2.—She came in to-day and Mr. Keytel has started for Gough Island. Several of the men did not want to go, pleading colds as an excuse. Mr. Keytel had to go round and work them up, and they finally all went except John Glass. It has taken us a long time to really know the people. They are very pleasant and kind, but everything is not as it appears on the surface.

Friday, April 3.—This has been a most beautiful day. It seemed a pity not to make the most of it, so we decided to go westward, taking a donkey. The Repettos said we might have theirs, but as it took Arthur four hours to catch it we did not get off till noon. We were glad to lunch under the shadow of a rock, for it was really hot. Then we went for another mile or two, tethered the donkey, and rested. After brewing some tea we started for home just as the sun was setting in a cloudless sky. We mean to go on such expeditions every now and then, as they freshen us up for the daily round.

Saturday, April 4.—Last night Glass came to say that old Caroline, his aunt, was much worse and to ask if Graham would go and read to her. Graham found her very ill, but conscious and able to understand what was said. He told Glass to come again in the night if necessary. About 11 o'clock he came again to tell us Caroline was dying. Graham hurried up and went across, but she had passed away. That evening she had asked Mrs. Lavarello to read to her her favourite hymn, "How sweet the name of Jesus sounds in a believer's ear."

It was thought necessary to have the funeral to-day, to-morrow being Sunday. Graham helped Glass as much as he could in making the coffin. The great difficulty was to find wood for it; the lid was made of fourteen pieces. Graham lined the coffin and I painted the name, age and date on it. The two elder boys, Alfred and William, worked at the grave, and very well they did it. Alfred was not really up to the work, having been ill, but he would not give in. Graham and Glass finished the digging. Mrs. Bob Glass has been quite a stand-by for the women. The funeral was at four o'clock. Glass and the three boys were the bearers, and managed very well. As usual, a British flag was used as a pall, which especially became a daughter of one of Nelson's sailors. Almost every one was present and was dressed in black. At the close of the service her favourite hymn was sung. There were four wreaths placed on the grave. The tiny cemetery, bordered by big blocks of stone and the people grouped inside between the gravestones, presented a striking picture against the distant sea and setting sun. I felt so thankful that Graham and Glass had not gone to Gough Island. The latter stayed because his aunt was ill, but no one thought of her being so near the end. An influenza cold was no doubt the immediate cause of her death. She was seventy-nine, but looked more like ninety.

Sunday, April 5.—We had not many at the morning service, and those who were there had such bad colds it was as much as we could do to get through the hymns. I had only two girls at the class instead of seven.

I went to see Eliza Hagan, a sister of Caroline Swain, and for once found her alone. She has now two step-sons and their families living in her house.

Monday, April 6.—This evening Fred Swain came in to say his little baby brother had scalded his foot and to ask for something to put on it. I thought I had better go and see it. It was not an easy matter to dress the child's foot, for he kicked vigorously all the time, more, I think, from fright than pain, for he stopped directly it was bound up.

Wednesday, April 8.—We entered on our third year to-day. Graham has started afternoon school from two to half-past three. A late school does not answer, as the boys have to fetch their cows home and often have a long distance to go for them.

Thursday, April 9.—All our spare time is taken up in answering letters. We are having a spell of wet weather and I fear the new-comers are feeling a little depressed, but I dare say they will cheer up when the schooner returns.

Friday, April 10.—We have been opening two good-sized parcels from Mrs. J—- of Bulford Camp. It contains such useful things, pinafores, crossovers, haberdashery, writing-paper, pencils and pens.

Saturday morning, April 11.—A ship has been sighted to the westward; we think it may be the schooner, which has been away ten days.

Evening.—We were right, it was the schooner; the three boats landed this afternoon. We went to meet them and thought the men looked very dejected. It seems they never reached their destination. They met with very bad weather and never sighted Gough Island. From what we have heard since we feel sure the captain never intended they should. We are sorry for Mr. Keytel, for so far things have not been very propitious, but hope that with a bad beginning may come a good ending. He has not come ashore, but will stay on the ship till all the business is done.

We are very sorry to hear that there has been a great deal of thieving on board, and we fear the newcomers are involved in it. One man says that every case of ours has been opened. It remains to be seen how far this is true. Another says he saw quite enough on the trip to Gough Island. Parcels for the people are missing, and one addressed to us by Miss M—— containing things for some of the people has been opened and a large piece of bed-ticking taken out.

Monday, April l3.—To-day the schooner came in, but the men said it was too rough to go out. Some, I think, did not want to, so no business was done.

Our cases were brought up from the beach; the greater part of them have been opened and fastened up again, but as far as we can see but little has been abstracted. The men who brought them up enjoyed unpacking some of them for us, and were most interested in discussing how a large iron saucepan cracked in three places could be mended.

Graham is laid up with a bad pain in his chest and back, and can hardly sleep for it at night.

Tuesday, April l4.—A wet and misty day, and the schooner not seen.

I went up to see Alfred Green, who is very poorly with a bad cough and a pain in his side. I put on a mustard-leaf. He is such a steady young fellow and sets a good example both in and out of school.

Wednesday, April 15.—I persuaded Graham to remain indoors to-day. I had a busy morning. First, I went out and took the readings of the thermometers, then soon after nine went up to church to read the daily service. From there I went to the Andrew Swains' to dress the baby's scalded foot. He cried more lustily than ever, but this will be the last dressing that will be necessary, the wound having healed beautifully. I then retraced my steps to the Henry Greens' to inquire after Alfred, who is a little better. His mother thought another mustard-leaf would do him good, so I came home for it and before long took it up and put it on.

Thursday, April 16.—No unloading has been done since Saturday.

I had to administer a caning to little Charlie this morning. William told me he was constantly cruel to his dog by beating it for no reason. We had often heard the dog crying out. I believe the mother was not overpleased at the chastisement, but Graham always comes down upon the boys if he hears of any cruelty.

Good Friday.—I took both services to-day.

Saturday, April 18.—The schooner came in to-day and has been unloading. Mr. Keytel is shipping for the Cape two hundred sheep, which he expects to put on board to-morrow. We are sorry it has to be done on Sunday. As the schooner will probably leave the same day we are finishing our letters to-night.

We have been much interested to hear about the snails sent to Cambridge. In acknowledging their receipt the Professor writes: "The conical ones are no doubt Siphonaria Lessoni, a species found all round the south end of South America; and the 'scaly' one is Magellanic Chiton." And again: "You will note the connection with Magellanica. The Magellanica is evidently the typical circumpolar fauna; and even Kerguelen Island is much more akin to Magellanica than to Africa or New Zealand. I should expect Tristan to be the same, though it has a distinctly European element in Balea."



CHAPTER XXVIII

Easter Sunday.—Very few elders were at either morning or afternoon service, only two or three of the regular ones. Graham was not able to get out, but is improving.

The men were occupied in getting the sheep down to the shore, but in the end were not able to put off, for heavy rain came on and the sea grew rough; one boat started, but had to come back.

Monday, April 20.—No business could be done with the ship to-day; it had been blown eastward. The weather has been bad and there have been heavy rain-storms.

One of Mr. Keytel's dogs, a well-bred pointer, has taken up his abode with us while his master is on the ship. We dare not leave him for an instant in the room by himself if there is any food on the table. The other morning he ate our breakfast of bacon, which had been prepared as an especial delicacy.

Tuesday, April 21.—Another stormy day, and nothing seen of the schooner.

This afternoon school began again; Ellen is helping me with the infants. Nearly all the children attended.

Wednesday, April 22.—There was a very small school, for many boys were away helping to collect the sheep for the schooner, which was coming in, and some were playing truant. The sheep were carted down to the shore and the men were ready for embarking, when the ship moved out, and so all their labour was again in vain. The sea was "making up," and to-night is stormy. It is rather late in the year for a sailing-ship to do business.

Thursday, April 23.—A roughish sea. No sign of the schooner.

I had some trouble in school to-day with one of the new scholars, a boy of eleven. He thinks he can come to school late, not learn his lessons, and do just as he pleases. I had to cane him. He fought all the time, but at last subsided and meekly went back to his place. I felt breathless, and I am sure the children were breathless with surprise at such behaviour. I had a talk with him afterwards when he stayed behind to learn his lessons. I think that, after his Cape school, he rather looks down upon a little school like this. It is remarkable how well he and his younger brother have been taught to read.

Friday, April 24.—A fairly rough sea and no sign of the schooner.

I have spent the afternoon writing, at Graham's dictation, his yearly report to the Colonial Office; to-morrow I hope we may finish it.

Saturday, April 25.—No appearance of the schooner. The wind is rising to-night.

Sunday, April 26.—There were better congregations to-day, with a sprinkling of men.

No schooner.

Monday, April 27.—Our eyes have scanned the horizon in vain, but I feel sure we shall see the schooner to-morrow. Graham has quite made up his mind that we cannot go home by it next year. It has no accommodation for passengers beyond the hold.

Tuesday, April 28.—The people had become somewhat anxious about the schooner's non-appearance, but to-day it appeared on the horizon. It was too rough, however, for any business to be done, though one boat went out with the mail. It is a rough night again.

Wednesday, April 29.—Too wet and stormy for either church or school.

In one of our letters we were asked what is our daily menu, so I give it here. Breakfast: milk-coffee, bread and butter, and a boiled egg when in season, varied with grape-nuts, porridge, or occasionally fish. Dinner: mutton, either hot, cold, or curried. About five days a week milk puddings, sometimes served with stewed dried fruit. Supper: tea, bread and butter, cold meat or fish. Fish is rather an uncertainty, but when it does come it is fresh. The people always bring it scaled and cleaned.

Thursday, April 30.—Nothing has been seen of the schooner to-day.

Friday, May 1.—I am taking school for a short time each morning just to keep the children up in reading and writing. I also give them Bible instruction and hear their lessons.

We have again an invasion of mice or small rats. A day or two ago one was found drowned in the milk-pan, this morning a second in the water-pail, and a third in the milk-jug. A great many have been caught in the loft, and occasionally we see them in the sitting-room popping in and out of holes when all is quiet.

Saturday, May 2.—The schooner was sighted this morning, but there was not enough breeze to bring her in.

Sunday, May 3.—This morning we were awakened by a loud shouting. It was one of the men arousing the settlement. The sheep had to be driven in and taken down for embarkation.

Tuesday, May 5.—The schooner will probably leave for good to-day. The only thing that now remains to be done is to take a few more sheep on board and barrels of water for them. The crew are to look after the sheep and every day will have to give each one a bottleful of water. Mr. Keytel says that the poor sheep have been very roughly handled, and even, in some cases, have had their horns broken. He came in early this morning with Bob Glass, who, I thought, looked rather uncomfortable when we talked about the things that have been stolen. One of these, we very much fear, is the bale of calico from Carlisle, which would have been such a boon to the people. We have been told it has been seen on board since the ship has been here, and I believe it is on the island. We feel sure our Tristanites have nothing to do with its disappearance. We fear we have also lost one or two small parcels from the Cape. The Henry Greens have lost a box containing clothing, groceries, and a good clock which they had sent to the Cape to be mended.

9.15 p.m.—The schooner is off at last; and, really, we are glad, for every one will be able to settle down to ordinary life again.

Thursday, May 7.—Ellen and I spent the morning in cutting up material, and making up parcels to send round to each family. We wish the people would show a little more gratitude. I think they are pleased, but they do not show it in the least. There was only one who showed gratitude, and she sent a thousand thanks and said how useful the materials would be, for she had just made up her mind to cut up some of her own and her husband's clothes to make shirts for the boys. The people had nearly all run out of sewing-cotton, so the supply just sent by friends has come in most usefully. I have been able to give two reels to each family and to keep some in reserve. This time we divided the material ourselves, because we wished it to go to those who needed it most.

The men are working at Henry Green's lamb-house to turn it into a residence for Mr. Keytel. They are rebuilding the west wall, laying down a floor, and putting on a zinc roof.

Saturday, May 9.—Graham and Mr. Keytel are having a game of chess. The former is much better than he was, but has still to lead an invalid life. Some nights he gets but little sleep on account of rain, and has to pace up and down a good deal.

Our fine weather has broken, and to-day we have had heavy rain and a thunderstorm.

Monday, May ll.—Yesterday I had again to take the two services. I felt rather alarmed in the morning, for Mr. Keytel was present. The church was full each time. I began school again to-day after a week's holiday. It is rather a business, taking the whole school in hand; and teaching is not much in my line. This morning David Hagan began to roar because I took him from his sister's lap and put him with his class. He would not stop, so I was obliged to put him in the vestry, where he continued roaring and occasionally uttered threats. During it all I had to go on hearing lessons. At last he stopped, so I brought him out and put him again with the infants, and had no more trouble with him. I give the class easy mental arithmetic, which is much less trouble than putting down figures.

Saturday, May 16.—To-day it was warm, without wind, and Graham went out for the first time. He has made a great advance in the last two or three days. We made our way up to Mr. Keytel's house. The work goes on slowly, as the men are uncertain and turn up when they like. Henry Green and Repetto are the two reliable ones. Mr. Keytel is rather disappointed in the men; he thought they would have done what they could for him, as he is trying to work up a trade. He says he has already lost two or three hundred pounds. He does not, however, seem disheartened. I think the house will look very well when finished. It consists of two rooms. Round each, six inches from the wall, he has put on a framework of wood canvas, which will be painted white. This will both keep out the damp and make the room lighter.

Tuesday, May 19.—It is difficult to find time for writing in the evening now, as we talk so much. We generally end up with a game of Tiddley Winks. Ellen and I usually get beaten; the two men want us to change partners, but I will not.

To-day Graham came in at the end of school. Every one seems unfeignedly pleased to see him out again.

We wish Tristan could be what it was before the new-comers came. Mr. Keytel has been opening some of his cases, and from the first two finds hatchets and rugs missing. Graham intends to give those whom it concerns a piece of his mind when he is well.



Wednesday, May 20.—Graham was able to take service, but did not stay for school. He came for me after school, and we walked down to the shore and watched Mrs. Repetto catching craw-fish. She got her skirt and feet very wet in the process. I was amused the other night by Mr. Keytel saying to Graham, "You had better wait one more Sunday before taking the service, Mrs. Barrow gives us good teaching."

Thursday, May 2l.—I spent the afternoon doctoring the poultry. To my surprise every hen and chicken I caught had "pip," a horny substance under the tongue and rather hard to get off. I operated on nearly thirty. The fowls are rather a trouble, from their habit of getting into all sorts of impossible places. The other day I found a hen on the pillow and her chickens on the dressing-table and window-sill.

Tuesday, May 26.—Mr. Keytel took a sample of the white mould to the Cape to be examined by an expert, who said it was due to the ground not being worked, and recommended its being brought to the surface, where the sun and air will get rid of it.

Friday, May 29.—Mr. Keytel slept in his house last night for the first time, and to-morrow intends moving in. He had no glass for the windows, but happily we had some to spare. Much to his amusement, he had entirely forgotten to bring plates, spoons and forks and a teapot, and again we were able to come to the rescue with a heterogeneous collection.

The two-year-old infant I punished the other day says "he shan't come to school any more because he's mad with 'old mumma.'" This same infant prodigy generally carries about with him an old pipe. One day when on a visit to his uncle he asked for some tobacco. The uncle said he had none. On returning home he told his mother what his uncle had said, and added, "I knew it was a lie."



CHAPTER XXIX

Monday, June 1.—We are to have a Christmas tree. It will be the first that has been seen on the island. Various friends have sent us toys, pinafores, pens, pencils and coloured candles, so we shall not lack things to dress it with; and Mr. Keytel is kindly providing sweets, for which we are already busy making muslin bags out of patterns. He and Repetto are going up the mountain to choose a straight bushy tree.

Saturday, June 6.—Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday were devoted to preparations for the Christmas tree. Monday to making fifty sweet-bags and filling them; Tuesday to wiring about a hundred candles and apportioning the toys; and Wednesday to going over all the toys again to check any mistake. Every child will have three or four, and sweets in addition. All the morning of Thursday Mr. Keytel, Repetto, Ellen and I were decorating the tree. In the afternoon the rain came down in torrents, and towards five o'clock, the time fixed for the Christmas tree, it came on again. Mr. Keytel came in to see what was going to be done. We were in two minds whether to have it, but as a little later it cleared somewhat we decided to go on, and were glad we did, for we found every one was dressed and ready. The children sat at the west end and the elders on forms round the room. We lighted the candles after every one was seated, and the tree looked quite brilliant. The distribution took a long time, but I think this increased the people's enjoyment. There was a bran-pie for the elders to dip into, which was carried round several times; the little packets of tobacco in it were much sought after by the men.

Most of the people being present, Graham thought it was a favourable opportunity for saying a few words about what was in every one's mind, namely, the thefts that had taken place on board the schooner. He said he was quite sure those present had had nothing to do with them. He could not say they were always honest in their dealings with one another, but he was quite sure they would not take anything of ours; and he remembered that when Willie Swain and Charlie Green came in the schooner the year before, nothing of the kind had happened. The people seemed pleased that Graham had spoken.

Wednesday, June 10.—Yesterday began again the Women's Meeting, which had been discontinued some months. I read to them from a Malvern paper an account of the Tristan exhibits at Poolbrook and what the judges said about their knitting, which much gratified them.

Monday, June 15.—Graham and I have begun playing chess in the evening.

The people are delighted to have some one at hand with whom they can trade. Mr. Keytel is visited at all hours of the day. He has just been giving sweets round to the children. Repetto is constantly with him, and has been a great help in making the doors, window-frames, and other woodwork for his house. But Mr. Keytel has carefully to supervise everything. He was thought very particular, as he would have everything exact and in the right line. The tendency here is for house-carpentering to be somewhat slapdash. At the same time Repetto, whose nickname is "Chips," and Tom Rogers can do some very neat work. A table, a sofa, a chest and a stool made by one or other of them will bear comparison with anything of the kind we have seen elsewhere.

Mr. Keytel's dog "Scotty" visits us constantly, putting his nose over the front door and getting in when he can. He and Rob are good friends and have great games together.

Wednesday, June l7.—Spent nearly three hours in the loft stock-taking. We had often to creep about with bent backs because of the beams, and to tread with care, as the boards in places are not very strong. The result of our work is very satisfactory; we have stores enough to last us till next spring. Tea is the only thing we may run short of.

Thursday, June l8.—After tea we went down to the sea-shore, where we found Mr. Keytel fishing. He gave Graham a lesson, who actually succeeded in catching some fish. When we went down there was a most glorious sunset, but by the time we returned it was almost dark. Mr. Keytel hopes to start a good trade in dried fish. It will keep the women busy, for they will have to clean and salt them. One obstacle, however, is the green-fly, which answers to our blue-bottle, and which will have to be dealt with.

Saturday, June 20.—I ordered some cod-liver oil from the Cape, and am now finding it useful. Rose Swain, who has had a long-standing cough, comes every day after dinner for a dose. It has cured her, and now I have another patient, a dear little curly-headed boy of two, Lizzie Rogers' brother and one of our scholars. He, too, has been ailing some time with a cough. To-day, as it was damp underfoot, his brother Arthur brought him on his back, a fairly heavy load for him, as he is only seven.

Tuesday, June 23.—Last week the men went by boat to Seal Bay to shoot cattle. They had to walk home on Saturday and back again on Monday. Yesterday evening they tried to come up by boat, but had to return. The women went out to-day to meet them at the Bluff, but saw nothing of them.

Wednesday, June 24.—They went out again to-day to the Bluff, which is quite five miles from here, to meet the men with something warm to drink. The wind was high and heavy storms were passing over the island, but this time their journey was not in vain, for some of the men returned, carrying as much of the meat as they could. They had killed four oxen.

Saturday, June 27.—To-day as we were going for a walk on Big Beach Mr. Keytel asked us to call on our way back. This we did and found tea awaiting us. He has made his house look so well. Facing the door there is a book-shelf on the wall with a good supply of books. There are also shelves and tables for his photographic apparatus. And, last of all, he has made little red blinds for his windows, which give the house a very cheerful appearance. So far we have not gone in for curtains, with the exception of one in our bedroom to screen off the draught from the kitchen, a draught which is sometimes so great as to be almost unbearable.

Thursday, July 2.—The thermometer outside the window registered just over thirty-nine degrees.

About a fortnight ago Mr. Keytel had a meeting of "All Hands," at which he said that there was one person who had greatly disappointed him, meaning Bob Glass. I think it was the day after that Bob Glass went to pay Mr. Keytel a visit and told him that shortly there would be a big fight on the island, and also that he had a revolver at his house which could be used on a certain person and then on himself.



Mr. Keytel finds the sheep have scab, and is much vexed he was not told this before shipping them for Cape Town. He hopes to stamp it out, but nothing can be done until next year.

Tuesday, July 7.—Last Saturday we weighed the loaf I had just baked. It weighed eight and a half pounds, and was forty-one inches round. We bake one of this size twice a week.

Friday, July l0.—On Wednesday night we had a magic-lantern entertainment, given by Mr. Keytel, and nearly every one came to it. It was quite a new thing to them and was a great success. There were many miscellaneous pictures followed by the story of Robinson Crusoe, which was much enjoyed. Mr. Keytel worked the lantern, Graham gave the explanation.

Saturday, July ll.—A ship seen passing between the islands.

Tuesday, July l4.—We have had a holiday to-day, as the men were thatching the school roof. A cry of "Sail, ho!" brought them down post-haste from the work. A steamer was thought to be in sight, but it proved to be a barque, and did not come this way.

On Sunday evening Mrs. Repetto came in alone. Her husband was at Mr. Keytel's; but she said she was not going to forsake old friends. She generally talks very amusingly. This time she informed us "Mr. Keytel was a cunning rat," which she intended as a compliment to his discernment. She loves to talk about her children, and told an amusing story of one of her little boys. On going to the pig-sty she found a dead little pig. She felt sure that the children had had something to do with it. So, marshalling them in front of her, she picked out the guiltiest-looking face and charged its owner with the deed. With difficulty she drew out the confession that he had gone to look at the little pigs, and as he was shutting the door one of them got caught in and was killed. He did not know what to do, so he picked it up and laid it down by the old mother as if it were asleep.

Thursday, July l6.—We have just returned from another lantern entertainment, at which were shown some interesting slides from photographs Mr. Keytel had taken when in Europe. He is giving these entertainments weekly.

Friday, July l7.—Mr. Keytel has lent me a most excellent recipe-book, one of the best I have seen. I think the following recipe is delightful—

"A Black Man's Recipe to dress Rice.

"Wash him well, much wash in cold water, the rice flour make him stick. Water boil all ready very fast. Throw him in, rice can't burn, water shake him too much. Boil 1 1/4 hours or little more, rub one rice in thumb and finger; if all rub away him quite done. Put rice in colander, hot water run away. Pour cup of cold water on him, put back rice in saucepan, keep him covered near the fire, then rice all ready. Eat him up!"

The dogs have again begun to kill the geese. They killed two a night or two ago, and seven last night, five of them belonging to Martha Green. We wonder the people do not shut up their dogs at night, and especially now during the lambing season. We are glad to notice they are driving the sheep more quietly this year, and keeping the dogs more at heel.

Yesterday Mrs. Henry Green came to tea; she still rarely leaves the house. We carried her off to see the lantern views; on the whole she seems in better spirits.

Saturday, July l8.—Last night we had Charlotte, Lily, and Ruth Swain into supper. Charlotte resembles a Swede in appearance. Lily, the second, is a good-looking girl with rather a long, pensive face. Ruth is very dark but has a fine face. She is backward in learning and very diffident. All three are very capable girls; they cut out and make their own clothes, and can turn their hand to most things in the house or on the land.