Monday, January 7.—The next day we went up what is called "Bugsby Hole," a steep mountain slope. It took us a long time to climb, for we did it bit by bit, constantly sitting down. At last we came to what one might perhaps call a pass (it was but a gap) over a narrow-backed ridge. This was the Goat Ridge which Graham had climbed from the other side on Good Friday. We had rather a difficult rock to climb up, but with assistance I managed it. Rob got frightened, and had many leaps before he got up. From this ridge such a lovely scene opened out in the evening light, lofty peaks all around, and below, grassy, fern-covered ravines. It made one almost giddy to look down. The descent appeared appalling, but the ferns were long, and we could get a good foothold in them. As we neared the bottom we picked up a quantity of wood. Some of it rolled into a gulch, and in going after it Graham got "blocked" and had to let himself slide, with the result that he rather hurt his leg. We got home just before dusk, had a supper of bread and milk and coffee, and retired to bed as soon as I had prepared the sponge for baking.



We have started school again after a fortnight's holiday. It is a hot, close day, about the hottest we have had; one comfort is the houses are cool. It is such a pleasure to see the cattle looking so different, really beginning to be in good condition. Their number having been so greatly reduced, there is plenty of grass for them. We have abundance of milk now, but butter is a rare commodity. Some was brought us to-day, and is quite a treat.

Wednesday, January 9.—This day last year we landed at Cape Town.

Yesterday evening we watched the yoking of some oxen which were driven into the yard opposite. Several were being broken in for the first time, and others had not been yoked for many months. One was quite wild, jumping over the wall into the tussock-garden. The two oxen, or steers, to be yoked together are driven into a corner, and the owner of them warily approaches and first puts on the neck of one the wooden collar. Having done this, he waits a minute or two, and then a man behind hands him the heavy cross-beam, one end of which has to be made fast to the collar. This being done, he goes through the same process with the other ox. The affair is no easy one, for any minute the ox may bolt, perhaps with the yoke dangling down over its forelegs. When they are at last ready, their heads are turned towards the entrance, for which they generally make a dash to get out on to the common. Now comes a race. The owner has hold of one of the horns and hangs on, running at topmost speed, till the oxen are out of breath and go more soberly. Some of the animals take the yoking very quietly. They are left yoked for several days; it seems rather hard upon them, but, of course, they have to be broken in.

Friday, January 11.—We are going to keep fowls. I intended to buy some, and spoke to one or two people, but they quite scorned the idea of selling—they would give them. About half-a-dozen have already been promised. Tom Rogers started on the fowl-house to-day. It is to be a wooden one made out of our packing-cases and thatched with tussock.

Wednesday, January 16.—Repetto has been here since Saturday putting up a three-cornered cupboard in the sitting-room. We need it to keep daily stores in. We tried keeping them in the loft, but to run up a ladder every time you want tea, sugar or biscuits is rather tiresome, and the kitchen is too damp for stores.

We have been rearranging the sitting-room. The Indian rugs have come in most usefully; one does as a tablecloth, and the other as a cover for boxes, making a table in the part of the sitting-room we have screened off. They give such a cheerful look to the room. Two or three of the young girls come in every evening of their own accord to help Ellen to wash up. The boys often help in the garden. Ned and little Charlie were helping this evening to shake the earth out of sods of grass. They were so comical over it, tumbling down and bursting into such merry peals of laughter. It reminded me of scenes in Uncle Tom's Cabin.

Monday, January 2l.—We are having such peaceful days, hardly any wind, and hours of sunshine.

The fowl-house is finished, and this morning I had several gifts of hens to put into it. While we were at breakfast one small child of five, Lizzie Rogers, brought as her birthday gift a hen in a bag. One hen laid an egg an hour after its arrival! The eggs here are very small. I visit the house many times a day to show it to various visitors.

The garden is looking so bright; the zinnias have done splendidly, and some are over two feet high. Our vegetable garden now produces cabbages, turnips, and a few peas. Carrots are coming on, and the tomato plants are in blossom and look most flourishing. The ground is quite warm six or seven inches down, and is more like a hot-bed.

Wednesday, January 23.—The man-of-war is daily expected; the horizon is scanned from early dawn to twilight; but after this week the people say they will have doubts about its coming. For the most part they are without tea and coffee, and are glad of our tea-leaves.

Friday, January 25.—We opened our last flour tin today; we hope to eke out the flour for a month by using only half-a-pound a day and mixing with it a liberal proportion of potatoes.

Yesterday I had my first bathe. We went to a place amongst the rocks where the sea runs in and deep enough for swimming. Graham has begun bathing with the boys after school. The beautiful calm weather has gone and the wind come back again.

Wednesday, January 30.—Charlotte Swain came in to tell us there was a shark on the shore and to ask if we would like to go and see it; so we went down. It was a small one, only six feet long. The skin is very rough, like emery paper, and is used by the people for polishing horns. The flesh is remarkably white and looks as though it would be good to eat. The liver when boiled down makes very clear oil for burning in their lamps.

This evening Rebekah brought us a well-baked loaf. We were touched by this, for flour is scarce now. She said they could do on potatoes better than we could, though we have not come to that yet. The men have been fishing and we have more fish than we can possibly eat.

There are other occupants than fowls of the fowl-house. Four big pigs find it a most comfortable place to retire into. It doesn't matter how often they are driven out. Whenever a storm comes on in they go again, and then they have the best of us.

Saturday, February 2.—This morning, though it was wet, such was our energy we went off for a bathe before breakfast, and found it most refreshing.

The Glasses have a little son, and now the population, including ourselves, is seventy-nine.

Late this afternoon there was a cry of "Sail, ho!" and on going out to look we saw a ship opposite the settlement. It was just a chance whether the men would be able to reach her. They had no time to catch any sheep, but took what they could lay hands on. As we sat on the cliff just as they were starting, Mr. Bob Green suddenly jumped up crying, "Sail, ho!" and on looking, sure enough we saw a second sail coming up. We hoped the men would try for the two, but they decided to go for the second only. The first ship stood in for a time and lowered part of her sail, and then went on. It is dark, but the boats are not yet back. I do hope the men have been able to get some tea and coffee.

Monday, February 4.—Late on Saturday evening we heard a distant whistle which we knew meant the boats were coming. We thought we would go down to see them land, but as it was very dark and we had lent our lantern we had to wait till we saw a light passing our way. Most of the people were carrying brands which they waved to keep them alight, causing quite a fine effect. On the cliff a fire was burning, and another on the shore. Lanterns were held up so that the incoming boat might have all the light possible. Well as the landing-place is known, it is difficult in the darkness to steer clear of rocks and to keep the boat from filling with water in the surf. The moment it touched the shore the women, boys, and girls ran down and pulled frantically at the rope. It had to be hauled up a steep bank of shingle. The fire was stirred up and in its light the second boat made a run for the shore. It was a weird scene. The expedition had been almost in vain. The men had to pull nearly all the way to the ship, which proved to be a Russian one, and could hardly get anything. Still, a little tea, coffee and sugar, and seventeen pounds of flour with a little rice were better than nothing. The ship was bound for Natal, but the captain would not take any passengers. We are pleased the letters have gone and by so direct a route. As the boats were leaving the ship the captain called out, "The letters are not stamped." Repetto called back, "All you have to do is to put them in the post-box as they are." We can never stamp letters as there are no stamps here. And if there were stamps they would be of no use because we never know where the letters will be posted. We sent off about sixteen letters. Repetto said he would keep his for the man-of-war. I rather think ours will reach England first.

We are getting through more reading than we have for a long time. Some of the people, so we are told, have used their books for lighting fires, and others have pulled them to pieces for the sake of the thread with which they were bound. We have found several of Miss Emily Holt's books here, and have much enjoyed reading them.

We have many requests now from the people for vegetables and almost daily ones for thyme and parsley. Cabbages they much like. We hope in the future they will try to cultivate vegetables. At present they care for none beyond cabbages, leeks, onions and pumpkins. The caterpillars do much damage among the vegetables, and many of the young tomatoes are riddled with holes. The few ears of wheat which have come up have tiny green caterpillars on them which eat up all the green corn. Having no insect-eating birds here is a great loss.

We have been having a good deal of rain and close steamy weather. At night we have the windows and door of our room, the passage window, and sometimes the back door all open. A chair has to be put across the door to keep the pigs out.



CHAPTER XVII

Wednesday, February 6.—Yesterday when we came back from bathing we heard that the men were going off in about an hour's time to Sandy Point to gather apples from their orchards, so we decided to take a holiday and go too. It was rather a scramble to get ready, and before we had even sat down to breakfast some of the men were going to the boats. We were in the midst of baking, and I had to run up to Miss Cotton to ask her if she would kindly finish it. It had been decreed Rob was not to come, but seeing us depart was too much for him and he swam after the boat and was hauled in. The men had to row the whole way, a distance of about ten miles. The scenery was fine, the high mountain sides descending precipitously to the shore. On the way Tom Rogers and Sam Swain were put ashore, as they wanted to drive a cow from where the former had left it some months ago. It was rather an undertaking, for the animal was as wild as the road was rough. Sometimes she had to be driven over big boulders, and sometimes through the sea. When she got on to a sandy stretch of beach she went so fast the men could hardly keep up with her. They had to throw a lasso over her horns the last part of the way to prevent her swimming out to sea. But in spite of their difficulties they arrived almost as soon as we did. It was not very easy landing, and we had to be carried from the boats to the shore. The orchards were on the mountain side in a sheltered place. It was quite a climb to get to them and once or twice we had to have help, which Tom Rogers, who when he saw us mounting had run after us, was only too pleased to give. We passed a very fine vine; the grapes were not yet ripe, probably the rats will have most of them. The grass was long and rather wet. Soon the sun came out and it became very hot. For a time we helped Tom to gather his apples, but it was tiring work, so Ellen and I found a sheltered nook and rested. Afterwards Graham and I went and sat near the edge of the cliff. Here a pair of mollyhawks came and perched within a few feet of us, and our presence did not seem at all to disturb them. They are exceedingly handsome birds, are for the most part white, and have a black bill with a bright yellow stripe down the centre of it. They have most graceful movements; and this pair bowed and clicked their beaks together and made love to each other in the most charming way. Before long it was time to descend. Tom again showed us the way, and then went back for his bags of apples, which he let down the cliff by a rope. The other men too were getting theirs down, some carrying them on their backs. There was such a collection of sacks by the time they were all down. The apples are not a large kind, and are gathered before they are ripe. But it is a great boon to the people to have them, and the children munch them all day long, eating little else. Tea was brewed on the beach, but as only a small saucepan had been brought there was not a very plentiful supply. Coming back there was only a little wind, and we travelled but slowly. We were very glad to land, for we were feeling rather sinking for want of food. To-day being the birthday of Mrs. Hagan's one-year-old son she sent us for supper a cooked fowl which was most acceptable. Our three little helpers, Mary and Susan Repetto and Sophy Rogers, came up with us from the shore and offered to carry our wraps, and when we got in set to and washed up the breakfast things. They love to help, and come in two and three times a day now.

Saturday, February 9.—It is difficult to keep count of dates here, the weeks pass so quickly. It is a wet afternoon. I have been chopping up suet, Graham repairing boots.

The day before yesterday the men with one or two women and some children went by boat to the rookery to fetch home three heifers. With some difficulty they managed to catch them, tied their legs together, and brought them home in the boats. They also brought back more apples and a good deal of driftwood.

Yesterday some of the men went out in a boat to shoot albatrosses, and shot seven. These birds are so large that it is as much as a woman can do to bring up one from the shore slung on her back. Once they nested on the island, but now nests are not to be found nearer than Inaccessible.

I have been making fresh efforts to teach Edith Swain her letters. She has been months at the first four and does not know them yet, but has picked up one or two others. I have tried a new way of teaching with better result. I have taught her, for example, "s" quite easily by telling her it is like the noise the goose makes; it is called the goose letter by the children. In this way we joke over the letters, and it seems to implant them in her mind. She has now learnt them nearly all.

Monday, February 11.—During Lent we are to have daily service at nine o'clock, and on Fridays one also at five o'clock with instruction on the Holy Communion.

Friday, February 15.—The daily services so far are being very well attended, a few men being generally present. We always have well-known hymns, and the service lasts just under the half-hour.

I find the fowls a great interest. But they often lay away in the tussock where it is almost a hopeless task to find the eggs. If I see a hen looking about for a nest whenever I can I catch it and shut it up, and usually with a successful result.

The other day Ben the cripple had been missing for several hours. It was feared he had gone off up the mountain by himself and been taken with a fit. Although it was pouring with rain the men went off in search of him to Red Hole which lies westward, but not finding him there retraced their steps and went in the opposite direction as far as Pig's Bite, but seeing no traces of his footsteps on the sand they turned back, when they were encountered by Ben himself, who had run after them to let them know he was all right. It seems he had gone to the potato hut and had fallen asleep there, and that his sister not knowing he was there had fastened him in. The first intimation of his whereabouts was conveyed by cries of "Becky, Becky, let me out."

Our things still remain packed, but we hardly think now we shall get off to the Cape. We have enough tea to last us this year, and enough coffee, sugar, biscuits, rice and jam for some time yet, as well as oil and soap. We got a good deal of rice from one of the ships, but bread we had virtually to do without.

The Repettos' youngest child is such a little pet, and so well trained. I brought him in yesterday when we were having afternoon tea. He solemnly clambered on to the sofa and sat there till I offered him a spoonful of tea and a biscuit, which he descended to receive, and then went back to his place. He came out into the garden afterwards and sat by my side without moving while I made a weak attempt at sketching the house. He is fair, has auburn curls, and is the darling of his mother's heart.

Monday, February l8.—This morning we had such a delightful bathe. The sea was rough and broke into our little cove, which was quite deep at one end. There was such a lovely sunrise, the sky and sea lit up by it. We often go down to bathe while it is still dusk. Rob was so amusing; he would not come near the water, but sat on the rock as if on guard; he is generally here, there, and everywhere.

Sunday, February 24.—John Glass's son and heir was baptized today and was named William Gordon. The first name was after Corporal Glass, his greatgrandfather. We sang the beautiful baptismal hymn—-

"O Father, Thou who hast created all In wisest love, we pray, Look on this babe, who at Thy gracious call Is entering on life's way; Bend o'er him in Thy tenderness, Thine image on his soul impress; O Father, hear!"

I did not know either the hymn or the tune by Sullivan until I came here.

Monday, February 25.—I have been picking tomatoes. We have to pick them green, as they are beginning to rot, due, I think, to this wet climate. I have hung some in strings on the front of the house, the rest lie on the sitting-room window-sills.

A week or two ago a small portion of the hayfield was cut. There being no such thing as a scythe here, it was cut with a short hook made out of ship iron, and called a "tussock-hook." The hay, which is deliciously sweet, was gathered in successfully. But I do not think Henry intends to cut any more of the field. They have got into such set ways here that it goes against the grain to try anything new. This hay was put into a hut and never used for feeding the cattle but for bedding for the pigs. While I have been writing I have heard such happy peals of laughter from the children who have been helping Ellen.

Tuesday, February 26.—As we were out for a walk this afternoon we saw cart after cart coming home from the potato patches. They were loaded with sacks of potatoes, and generally had a woman and one or two children seated on the top of the sacks. The men do the digging and the women and children the picking up. The potatoes are turning out well on the whole. It is no joy to ride in the wagons along the rough track, which can hardly be described as a road. The carts have solid wooden wheels and no springs.

Saturday, March 2.—A cry of "Sail, ho!" What a joy! Every one is running hither and thither.



CHAPTER XVIII

Monday, March 4.—It is difficult to sit down and collect one's thoughts to write. Saturday was a most eventful day. Early in the morning soon after we had returned from bathing a ship was seen on the horizon. It was coming from the east. This is the first time a ship has come from that direction since we have been here. The excitement was great. She was seen to be tacking for the island. The excitement increased. We felt something was in store for us, possibly a mail. In due time Graham and the islanders started forth; there was a breeze and the sea was decidedly rough. As we were returning from seeing them off the women said they could see a flag on the mast-head, which meant that somebody special was on board. We at once decided it must be the Bishop, and hurried home and buckled to, for there was plenty to be done. We saw the boats reach the ship, and to our surprise in about fifteen minutes they were off again. We then felt sure the ship was going to stay and was landing some one. When the boats were getting fairly near the shore we went down. A tremendously heavy shower came on which drove us to seek shelter in a diminutive cave. The sea had become rougher. We watched the boats working their way in from the east; they were being tossed and pitched about like corks and the spray was dashing all over them. Our interest grew as they neared the shore. How we scanned them to see who was on board. As they drew near us we could see there was no bishop, but the people soon recognized two Tristanites, Willie Swain, son of Susan Swain, and Charlie Green, son of Lucy Green, who had been away for two or three years. They both will be welcome, as they are needed at home to work for their widowed mothers. Then a stranger was descried.

The women ran down to help the moment the boat grounded, even Ellen and I helped for a few minutes. Every one was wet through; Graham from head to foot, but happily he was not hors de combat. He introduced the stranger as Mr. Keytel, one of the owners of the vessel, who said he had come partly on a holiday trip and partly to gauge the feasibility of starting a trade. The schooner will probably be here about a week. Mr. Keytel had lunch with us. It has been arranged for him to have his meals with us and to sleep at the Repettos' who have a larger house. He is an interesting man with many hobbies, being interested in photography, birds, flowers, fishing, horns, and curios. Directly after lunch the letter mail was brought in by Repetto who was followed by others carrying bags containing a great number of parcels chiefly for the islanders.

What a delight it was to have our letters. I had such a number it was difficult to know which one to open first. We must spend the next few days almost entirely in writing. Graham has a great many letters to answer, and has received communications from the Imperial and Cape Governments which may require lengthy answers. The former Government desires him to discuss with the inhabitants the question of their leaving the island. He has also had a very kind letter from an official of the Agricultural Department at Cape Town, who has had the management of this expedition, which is described as "The Relief Expedition." The Imperial Government has sent the islanders goods to the value of L100. These include one hundred bags of flour, groceries, and a large quantity of crockery. The stores which we ordered from the Army and Navy Stores, London, and from Messrs. Cartwright of Cape Town have arrived safely; and thus we are provided for for two years. We had kept a little flour for an emergency, so directly our guest came we were able to bake a loaf.

7:35.—We have been writing almost the whole day, and I feel as if I had very little mind left.

On Sunday the schooner came fairly close in, but the boats did not go out to her, for which we were glad. She has been becalmed today some distance away, but the men decided to go off to her for the bags of flour. They have now been out nearly twelve hours; it is dark, and there is no sign of them. Ellen and I have been round to all the houses leaving tea and sugar so that the women may have a brew to take down to them when they arrive.

Mr. Keytel has been making inquiries about guano; but it seems from what the men say it will be almost impossible to get the pure article, so much rain passes through it washing out all the goodness; also, it is in the tussock and gets mixed with sand. He does not want to trade in cattle or sheep.

Tuesday, March 5.—We went down last night to meet the boats. Each brought twenty sacks of flour. So much flour has not been seen on the island for many a day, if ever. It was not a really dark night, so that lanterns were all that were necessary. Every one was helping either to haul up the boats or carry the bags to a high and dry spot, which was not easy work over slippery seaweed. The captain has sent ashore for us a funny little brown puppy.

About half-past ten one of the men put his head in at the front door saying something about the mail at Glass's. Graham went to see what it was, and after some time brought back to our great joy another enormous budget of letters of later date than those first received. We sat up till nearly one o'clock reading them, but were up by six next morning.

This morning after service a meeting was held, at which every adult except two was present, to go into the question of leaving Tristan. Graham told the people, according to instructions received, that if they stayed the Government could not promise to do anything further for them, and that therefore they must not look for help in the future. He put the advantage of going and the disadvantage of remaining as strongly as he could. But notwithstanding they were unanimous in their decision to stay. One or two said they would rather starve here than at the Cape; and old Mary Glass said she would go if the Government would give her a pound a week. Mr. Keytel was there and takes much interest in every question. He is considering whether anything can be done as to trading in sheep, and I hope will try to get his firm to take it up. It would be better for the islanders to sell at a very low price than to have no regular communication. A trade would make them independent of outside help except perhaps a little at first to make the schooner pay. But probably the Government will think it has done enough for some time to come.

This is not the first time that an offer of removal has been made. In 1903 Mr. Chamberlain, who was then Colonial Secretary, in a dispatch to the Governor of the Cape suggested the removal of the inhabitants to the Cape, and that the island be annexed to the Cape Colony. In accordance with this suggestion in January, 1904, H.M.S. Odin arrived at Tristan having on board Mr. Hammond Tooke who was commissioned by the Cape Government to make the following offer to the islanders:—"Should all the inhabitants wish to leave the Island, the Cape and Home Governments would provide them with a free passage, purchase their live stock from them and settle them within 100 miles of Cape Town, allowing them about two acres of land on rent, and would advance them money on loan to start their homes. They were also told that they would be near the sea coast, where they would be able to start fisheries to supply the people of Cape Town ... and that in future they could not rely on a yearly visit from a man-of-war" (Blue Book). Only three families accepting this offer it was withdrawn.

Wednesday, March 6.—Yesterday and to-day rain and a rough sea stopped the unloading. Mr. Keytel has brought a gramophone and has given a concert at the Repettos' house. I have never enjoyed a gramophone so much as I have this one, more particularly the orchestral part.

We have been writing on and off all day. There were more meetings this afternoon. Several matters needed discussion. One concerned the mail which is sometimes opened in rather a promiscuous fashion—even in the boats. It has been agreed that in future it shall be brought straight to this house. Repetto is to continue to act as postmaster, and the opening to be in the presence of all who wish to attend. It has also been agreed that any letters or packages addressed to the Governor, or other supposed authority, Graham shall open on behalf of the islanders. These have come to be thought nobody's property, and to be appropriated by any one into whose hands they might fall.

Mr. Keytel also had a meeting. He has become very interested in the island and is going to do what he can to start a sheep trade, so he wanted to talk it all out with the people. He is keen upon improvements. Amongst other points he suggests that only a few cattle should be kept and that food should be grown to supply them in winter; and that a piece of land be railed off for the pigs which do so much havoc to the turf. He has won the men's confidence and I believe they will do what he wishes. He hopes if all goes well to send a schooner next January to take off the sheep, which will probably have to be sold at a low price. Had we gone to Cape Town we could not have obtained a better result than this unexpected visit of Mr. Keytel promises to yield.

Thursday, March 7.—Graham sat up writing till two in the morning. He has now nearly finished his report to the Colonial office, but has still to write to the Cape Government. I too have been writing most of the day. The ship has only been sighted in the far distance, so no business has been done. This is the third successive day of no communication with her. The wind of yesterday blew her far out to sea. We are so longing to open our packages, but it seems better to get the letters that have come to hand answered first.

Saturday, March 9.—Yesterday the men went off to the Greyhound—I do not think I have mentioned the name of the schooner before—and got back some time before midnight. They have gone off again to-day, after which they have only to go once more.

Later, 10 p.m.—We have just opened a package which we thought contained papers, and to our delight have found letters and cards innumerable.

Monday, March ll.—The men are bringing in the last load from the schooner. Latterly the weather has been very favourable.

Mr. Keytel has had a splendid opportunity of getting to know the people, their needs, and the possibilities of the island. He thinks there may be an opening not only for sheep-breeding and for the drying of fish, of which there are great quantities, but also for sealing; and talks of coming next December and spending a whole year here with the object of starting the industries. It looks, therefore, as if a future were opening at last for Tristan.

Mr. and Mrs. Beverley of Cape Town have been so kind. They packed a large case full of things, such as children's clothes, remnants of material, puzzles and toys, including a grand doll's house. A case has also been received from the congregation of Holy Trinity Church, many members of which have very kindly written.

Tuesday, March 12.—Still busy writing. In addition to my own I have many letters to write for the islanders to friends in England and elsewhere who have sent them parcels.

Last evening I went to the cemetery to try to make a sketch of Mr. Macan's grave for his grandmother. This is the young man who came in the Pandora in 1904 and was drowned, as it is thought, in trying to swim round a bluff to the west of Burntwood. His body was found the next morning on the beach, but whether he had fallen off the cliff or had been drowned in swimming round is uncertain.



Graham has at last had his heart's desire, namely, to ascend the Peak. He and Mr. Keytel with five of the islanders started off early this morning. At seven we could see them on the sky-line of the mountain above the settlement. They got back about six this evening. I am thankful I did not go, for they say it was a tremendous climb, and the last part, over a lava-covered surface, the hardest bit of all. I give a description of the expedition in his own words—

"Mr. Keytel and I had as guides or companions old Sam Swain, Andrew Swain, Tom Rogers, Repetto and young Sam Swain. We started at 5.30 a.m. and in an hour and a half were 2,000 feet up, on the top of what the islanders call the base of the mountain. With the exception of a mile and a half at the end the climbing was now done, and the rest of the way little more than walking up-hill. The first mile from the edge of the base was fairly flat, but over spongy ground thickly studded with stout ferns which came up above our knees. Then we got on to a grassy slope, and from that descended into a gulch, up which we went for about a mile. Getting out of this we next trudged over grassy slopes on which were growing fine specimens of the crowberry. This kind of ground lasted to within a mile and a half of the summit, but the grass became scarcer, and was in patches only. Then all vegetation ceased, I did not notice even moss, and the ascent became much steeper, about as steep as from St. Ann's Well to the top of the Worcestershire Beacon. But the going was much harder because the ground offered no sure foothold, consisting as it did of loose burnt stones and earth which let you down one step for every two taken. Our Cape visitor in the gulch had felt that he could not lift his foot for another step; he kept on, however, right to the top, and I began to feel the same. Although in no sense done up, I found this last bit harder work than all the rest of the way put together. The men felt it too. The end, though, came at last, and we proudly stood on the rim of the crater. It was soon evident to us, however, that we were not on the highest point. That was on the part of the rim opposite to us, and in between was the bottom of the crater. Lying in this bottom was a small lake, perhaps eighty yards by sixty. We made our way down to it and half-way round it, and then sat down to lunch. We found the crater water quite drinkable. After lunch I had a swim in the lake, whereupon Mr. Keytel promptly brought his camera into action. He took many other photographs. Then we set our eyes upon that highest bit of rim and doggedly making for it were soon shouting and waving our caps on the top. It was now twenty minutes past one. At a quarter to three we began to return, and were home by twenty-five minutes past six. The day for the climb and the view was a perfect one."

To-morrow the schooner leaves and with it goes our touch with the outside world. With what it has left behind we shall have enough to occupy us for many a day. We have become quite fond of the little brown puppy, which we have named Jock. It is very teachable, and is immensely interested in the cattle that pass, barking with great energy at them.

Wednesday, March 13.—Mr. Keytel intended leaving to-day but the Greyhound has not made its appearance; it is thought it is becalmed. All the better for our letters. This morning Mr. Keytel photographed a group of all the islanders, then the women only, and afterwards the men. The photographs were taken on the common just outside our house.

Thursday, March 14.—Such a large ship is passing and the men, I think, would go out to it were they not waiting to go out to the schooner, which is now in front of the settlement.



Tuesday, March 19.—The Greyhound after all did not leave last week; the sea was too rough for the boats to go out. It did not get off till yesterday, due partly to the caution of the captain who would keep away from land and partly to the weather. We two sent off about one hundred and twenty letters. The captain wanted to see Graham to show him how to read a barometer sent by the Cape Meteorological Commission. I thought I would go too and take Ellen. We had no sooner put out to sea than we realized it was going to be much rougher than we anticipated, and, the Greyhound standing out after the cautious manner of her captain, we had some distance to go. Mr. Keytel was out fishing and was to follow. We all kept well till we got to the ship. Clambering up the rope ladder we were soon on board and being greeted by such a kind old captain. He was seventy-four years old with snow-white hair and had only one eye. Graham soon sank into a chair and was quite past reading barometers or anything else. He could just assent to remarks made to him by the captain and that was all. Ellen was in no better plight and sat on a bench near me, and I cannot say I felt cheerful, for the schooner, which was empty and had not much ballast, was rolling considerably. I carried on various conversations and strained my eyes to see if Mr. Keytel's boat was coming. It was a long wait, and when at last he did get on board he had gifts to bestow upon the men before we could get off. How thankful we were when that moment came; even then there were many adieux to be said. I was thankful to see that Graham and Ellen were capable of descending the ladder. The wind was rising and the sea sweeping in from the west. But I felt complete confidence in the men, they are such good seamen and so thoroughly understand their boats and what they are capable of. The two boats began to race, and we simply flew through the water. It was splendid. We soon gained the shore, and it was with no little satisfaction we saw ourselves at home. Then we retired to our beds, Graham not to appear again until next day, for he had a racking headache. After lunch Ellen and I tried to tidy the sitting-room, which was strewn with packages.

To-day has been entirely taken up with the distribution of goods amongst the people. The boxes had first to be sorted out; one had no name on, and one of the crockery cases could not at first be found, having been addressed differently to the other Government cases. These crockery cases took some time to unpack. The contents made a grand show laid out in Bob Green's house. They were—

1 dozen brown earthenware teapots. 5 dozen plates. 5 dozen soup-plates. Vegetable dishes. 6 dozen cups and saucers. 1 dozen flowered bowls and covers. 2 dozen tumblers. 5 dozen egg-cups. 8 saucepans. Pails and other useful things; it is a most useful gift.

I must now describe the people's way of dividing these goods, which is their usual method of distribution. When an equal number of each set had been given round to every family, and there were some over but not enough to go round again, they put these with those things of which there were not enough to go round, such as the teapots, saucepans and pails. Then they arranged these in seventeen lots on the floor, taking care to make each lot, as far as was possible, of the same value. The number seventeen was chosen because there are seventeen families. One man now turned his back, generally looking out at the door; another standing over the things pointed with his finger to one of the lots and said "That." The man whose back was turned called out in answer the name of the woman of a family, till each family had had a turn. The people stood or sat round. They have apparently worked this method out for themselves and find it creates less feeling than any other. This took all the morning.

The afternoon was devoted to the division of material and clothing at the Repettos' house. There was a goodly supply. A lady at Eastbourne who for many years has taken a deep interest in the islanders, had sent enough grey woollen material for all the women to have a jacket. Others sent two large bales of brown calico, a good quantity of red and grey flannel, and enough strong blue serge and brown tweed for every man to have a pair of trousers. There was also sent a great quantity of clothes. This "sharing out" went on till dusk. Finally a large box of sweets, the gift of Mr. Keytel, was distributed among the children. When we got home we began to unpack our own parcels. There are some large packages of papers which take a long time to sort and divide.

After our unwonted doings we are all feeling rather tired and not capable of doing much, but still we have begun school, as the children had a holiday all the time the schooner was here.

This afternoon I went up with some medicine for Mrs. Henry Green, who has caught a bad chill. As she seems very short of warm clothing I have given her a jacket and skirt of those sent me.



CHAPTER XIX

Wednesday, March 27.—The Cape Meteorological Commission has sent Graham the following instruments with a request that he would take regular observations—

An aneroid barometer. A Fortin mercurial barometer. Dry and wet bulb hygrometers. A maximum thermometer. A minimum thermometer. A five-inch rain gauge.

The hygrometers and thermometers are to be kept in a Stevenson's screen. Whether he will be able to take the readings as often as is suggested is doubtful, but it will be interesting work.

Some rather amusing letters have been received. One from a high Turkish official runs thus—

"Constantinople,

"21 Septembre, 1906.

"MONSIEUR LE GOUVERNEUR,

"Je me permets de vous prier d'avoir l'extreme obligeance de m'indiquer le nombre total des habitants de Tristan da Cunha avec Dependances et la quantite de ceux qui appartiennent a la religion mahometane, avec l'indication du nombre des Sunites ou Chuetes et de leur nationalite respective.

"Dans l'attente de votre reponse je vous prie, Monsieur le Gouverneur, de vouloir bien agreer mes salutations distinguees et mes remerciments anticipees."

There is a very interesting letter from the Dixie professor of Ecclesiastical History, Cambridge, who asks Graham to collect for him whelks, limpets, periwinkles, snails, cowries, etc. Here is an extract from it—

"It is not, however, the shells I care for, but the teeth of the animals within. I have just one species from Tristan—a small land shell of an interesting genus (Balea). One species is European, one Japanese, the third Tristan. Its nearest ally is an enormous Eurasian genus (Clausilia) of seven hundred species which hardly gets into Africa and does not cross Behring Strait, though there are thirty more in Peru and one in Porto Rico. So you see how strangely isolated your Tristan species is. Its nearest cousins are in Tunis and Abyssinia. I fancy the land shells of Tristan will not have a Magellanic character like the one Kerguelen species. Anyhow they are sure to be intensely interesting."

Good Friday.—We have had a beautiful day, just like a spring day at home. We had service at 10.30 which lasted a little over an hour. About fifty-eight were present. The men are not attending so well now. The two new arrivals do not come to church, and I think it induces the others to stay away. We had service again at three o'clock, after which Graham and I went to inquire after Mrs. H. Green, who has been ailing with rheumatism. It is an old complaint, and due, it is thought, to exposure on the mountain years ago. She went up with a party on to the Base; a fog came on, and she became separated from her companions and wandered hopelessly about with her dog. The fog was followed by a heavy thunderstorm with vivid lightning, and she was drenched through. Barefoot and wet to the bone she lay all night in the ferns with the dog at her side. Next morning her hands were so swollen with the cold she had no use in them until the sun came out and warmed them. Her only food was birds' eggs which she occasionally sucked. She was not found till the next afternoon, though a search party had been out twice to look for her. She was in bed for a week, and ever since has been subject every few years to prolonged rheumatic attacks accompanied by great depression which often lasts for months. She is a nice-minded woman, very quiet, and grateful for anything done for her. In this she is unlike many who accept everything as a matter of course.

The three Repetto girls and Sophy have been weeding the garden, which has been rather neglected lately. We have planted some trees in it grown from Eucalyptus seed collected on Table Mountain. I planted it here in pots which I kept in the dark, and it came up well. About a hundred and sixty sturdy little trees are the result. In years to come they may be useful for firewood. In a book on forestry left here by Mr. Tooke, they are said to be very useful trees to grow for this purpose, as they bear lopping well.

Easter Sunday.—At the Holy Communion to-day there were twenty present; some coming for the first time, and one or two men coming who had not communicated since Mr. Dodgson's time. All who had been prepared for Confirmation were invited except the boys and girls.

I am thinking of starting a Bible class for girls on Sundays. I feel I do so little for them. We see most of those girls whose ages range from nine to thirteen.

A thunderstorm has just passed over us; the effects on sea and land were most beautiful, everything assuming such a vivid colouring as one only occasionally sees.

Wednesday, April 3.—We got up early this morning, as Graham was going to the Ponds, but Henry Green sent down to say it would be better to put off going until to-morrow, as it looked like rain. One or two of the girls are going, so I have decided to go too. I believe it is a stiffish climb. We spent the afternoon among the cases trying to find one containing material. Then we unpacked a kettle, which we badly need; we have had lately to boil our water in a saucepan.

Friday, April 5.—Yesterday we again got up early and were ready to start for the Ponds, when Henry again sent down to say it was going to rain.

We have two invalids to visit now. The one is Mrs. Henry Green who makes no progress at all, and seems very miserable. I really think she ought to be in bed, but she says their bedroom window does not open, and she feels the heat of the room. The other is Charlotte Swain, who apparently has a housemaid's knee. It is very painful and much swollen. I have painted it with iodine, which has reduced the swelling.

A little time ago we happened to say to Tom Rogers how tiring we found cooking in the sitting-room owing to the fire being on the hearth, which entailed constant stooping. Two or three days afterwards he came to measure the fire-place, and that afternoon he and Bob Green fixed two large stones, raising the fire a good foot. But the men are not always so ready to help. We wanted them to build on an extra room to our house, as there is no larder and the kitchen is very small. Our bedroom and the kitchen share the same window, and when the wind is contrary the smoke pours into the bedroom. We thought the west-end wall might be taken down and the room built without very great difficulty. All hands met to-day to consider this, when most of the men refused to do anything, though some were quite willing to help. The life here very much conduces to every man looking out for himself. Graham tried to point out to them how important it was they should build a church and house if they want a clergyman or teacher to come here in the future; and that they could not expect Lucy Green and Betty Cotton to always give up their houses; but they did not seem inclined to do anything. If a clergyman or teacher came they would like him to board with one of themselves—an impossible arrangement. They do not understand the need of a larder, the greater part of them keeping groceries in the bedroom, sometimes under the bed. We have to keep a large barrel of flour, our bread and milk in the sitting-room.

Saturday, April 6.—The men appeared en masse early this morning to say they were ready to start upon the house. We thanked them, but under the circumstances thought it best not to have the work done. They ought really to build on to their own houses, for some are very short of bedrooms, and the sitting-room has nearly always to be used as a bedroom too. They can build if they like, for a few years ago on his marriage Bill Rogers built a house which looks very well; getting timbers for the roof is the great difficulty. We hear that Lavarello was very sorry he had refused his help to build the room and that night paced up and down vexed with himself for so doing.

Sunday, April 7.—This afternoon I started the Girls' Class half-an-hour before service. As soon as I left the house all seven girls flew round the corner to join me. For the last hour they had been waiting at Betty Cotton's just opposite. They are very pleased at having a class. It makes such a difference teaching children to whom almost everything in the Bible is new. They listened so attentively. We have begun with Genesis and I do hope to make the teaching practical. After service we went to the Henry Greens', who live up the hill in a direct line from here. She is much the same. Chris is at last beginning to walk, but cannot speak a word. I believe they fear he is dumb. He understands very well what is said to him. I never saw a child tumble about more in his attempts to walk, but he does not seem to mind a bit and can walk backwards as easily as forwards.

Tuesday, April 9.—Repetto has been levelling the floor of our bedrooms preparatory to putting down some green linoleum, which we got to save labour, as it is so difficult to sweep and keep clean rough boards. Sailor-like, he slung the beds to a beam of the ceiling, which avoided taking them to pieces.

Thursday, April 11.—I have just finished a serge skirt; it has many gores in it, and has turned out better than I expected, indeed, it looks quite tailor-made.

We are having an incursion of rats, and traps are going off at all hours of the day and night. Most of the rats caught are small and more like mice. The other day my favourite chicken walked into the sitting-room and got its head caught in a trap. It extricated itself, but was so stunned it fell over and could not walk; it has since recovered.

Monday, April 15.—As there are holes in the roof it had been arranged that the back side of the house should be re-thatched, and the men, fourteen in all, came to-day to do it. We got up soon after five to be ready for them, and had time to go down for a bathe. They began by cutting the tussock in the garden. While they were doing that we partly emptied the loft. By the time we came back from school they were in full swing. After taking off the old thatch they swept the loft, and a nice time we had of it below. As soon as possible Ellen buckled to to sweep. When their work was done they had tea with biscuits and rock cakes. Nine hundred bundles of tussock were used to thatch the one side of the house. The men fasten the thatch to the rafters with tarred string using a large iron needle. Three men work together, one in the loft, one on the roof, and a third tossing up bundles. We had sent to the Cape for lead to put along the ridge in the place of turf, and this they have put on. We hope now the roof will be rain and dust-proof, and the walls less damp.

Poor Mrs. H. Green is still feeling very miserable; she manages to get about and that is all. Her eldest daughter, Ethel, who is just sixteen, is getting on so well at school. She is by far the best reader, reading quite fluently, and writes very well. She is very staid, and we think she might possibly act as school-mistress in the future. Her brother Alfred, two years older, has perseveringly stuck to his reading. He can hardly master even short words. Still, he is getting on, especially in writing and arithmetic. He is a very clean, neat and orderly lad, and has greatly brightened in appearance since he began coming to school. The elder girls will not do as well as the younger, who will soon outpace them. The former have lately been learning to write letters. Up till now two or three women and Repetto have written for the whole colony.



Saturday, April 20.—We have been thinking with much satisfaction that our letters taken by the Grey-hound will probably be received in England to-day. Since she left a ship has not so much as been seen.

This has been an afternoon of knocks at the door. First, Repetto's, who came to replace the tin round the pipe on the roof, but it beginning to rain he helped instead to put together a churn. We have started making butter. Our next visitor was little Willie Repetto, who came for thyme and parsley. Next came Rebekah to borrow the boot-brushes and blacking for her brother, a weekly request; then Ned Green for matches for his grandmother. He was followed by Sophy who wanted medicine for her mother, and she by Arthur Rogers for leeks for his mother's soup. Lastly, came Rebekah again with Mabel for nails for nailing birds' skins on their house wall to dry them. This morning there was a request for baking-powder, and Harry Swain brought a pair of horns for a birthday offering. Many days are like this, and our house often resembles a shop.

It was Mary Repetto's birthday this week. I made her a pretty light-blue pinafore. She was very pleased with it, and her mother so much so, that Mary was sent with a live fowl as a return offering, but we did not accept it, as we want them to learn we do not wish to be repaid for presents.

Sunday, April 21.—We have been having good attendances in church lately. The men are again attending well, and two new-comers have started. On Sunday evenings, there being no service, we read aloud. Graham begins, and just now is reading Religions of the World. Then I read; my present book is called Holiness of Life. I have just been preparing a lesson for the women. I find Ryle's Expositions of the Gospels a great help, they are so simple and practical.



CHAPTER XX

Wednesday, April 24.—We have at last made the expedition to the Ponds. On Monday evening Henry Green sent down word that he was starting early next morning. So on Tuesday we rose at five, and two hours later Graham and I set off ahead. We were glad to get a start so as to ensure a rest before the others came up. We went over the common and down to and along Big Beach. After walking over a sandy stretch there, we climbed up the side of the mountain on to a narrow path and there awaited them. Will Swain came hurrying up looking very hot, he thought we had got down too low. Soon there joined us Henry Green, who was the guide, Rebekah, Ethel, and Lily and Ruth Swain. We then followed the narrow and ascending path across Plantation Gulch, where on the left was a yawning precipice.



Several halts were called, during which we picked and ate berries. It was a long and stiff climb. Towards the top the grass got longer and we had often to clamber under the branches of trees, of which there were scarcely any lower down. When we reached the top the path led up a stony gulch, from which there was a beautiful view up a valley. Then we had to climb and pass along the steep side of a hill. After this we were on flatter ground. It was very misty and the scenery reminded me much of the moors of Scotland. We saw many young mollyhawks sitting near their nests and showing white in the undergrowth. We now walked over more level ground, along what Henry called a road but I should hardly call a trail. Then again over very uneven ground and through high ferns. By eleven we were at First Lagoon Gulch, which resembled the dry bed of a wide and deep river. There we had a light lunch. In about twenty minutes we started again. Our course lay up a steep hill and over much the same sort of ground as before. At noon we were above the ponds. It now came on to rain hard. We tried to shelter under the edge of the cliff overhanging them, but by the time the rain ceased the girls were wet through. There was a thick mist and we could not even see the ponds, of which there are three, and which lay far below. After some deliberation we decided not to descend to them, and turned our steps homeward. We returned at a good rate, the girls flying in front of us. Will Swain took his own way back. With a thick mist hanging all round it would have been impossible to find the way without a guide. At intervals we stopped to wring the wet out of our skirts. I was thankful when we got to the gulch where we had to descend; though the wind was there blowing gales. We got down the first part of the mountain very quickly, but only by frequently sitting down on the long wet grass to slip down steep pitches. When we got to Plantation Gulch we found a fire and tea awaiting us—the work of Will Swain and the girls. Now we knew why they had hurried on. It was excellent and most refreshing. We were home by three. The next day Rebekah came to wash our muddy clothes. She had made dreadful rents in her skirt, and as she has no idea of mending beyond patching I have darned them for her.

We found Henry Green a most kind and considerate guide. He constantly made short detours in search of the easiest path and often broke off branches to clear the way. I hear he told the men afterwards that he had not thought the "Missus" would have been able to walk so well. I asked him as we went up the hill which was the worst day he had ever been out in on the sea. He said, "The day the Surrey was here, and we were landing the luggage. The wind tore the sail of our boat and so we had not the same control of her."

Saturday, April 27.—Last night was so cold it kept us all wakeful. Soon after four we were disturbed by a rat, and I thought it a good opportunity to get up and make up the dough. Ellen lit the paraffin stove and warmed the milk and I made the bread and then retired to bed again.

Wednesday, May 8.—While I write Graham and Henry Green are engrossed in a game of Tiddley Winks. Henry's wife came yesterday to stay with us, as we thought a change might do her good. Her rheumatism is better, but she is still feeling ill and depressed. She slept in Ellen's room and Ellen on the sofa. This evening she made up her mind to go home, but says she will come again tomorrow. Henry brought a bundle of wood and is sending milk twice a day because she is here.

Friday, May 10.—We do not go out much for walks; they are rather pointless without an object. But when it is dusk we often go to the top of the cliffs for a breath of fresh air.

Sunday, May 12.—Sophy Rogers said to me as we were going up to the class, "We shall miss it when you are gone." I felt encouraged.

Tuesday, May 14.—Mrs. H. Green did not come back to sleep, but spends the day here now. She told them at home if she stayed the night here she felt as if she should go out of her mind. She has her meals with us and Graham cracks jokes to make her laugh.

Just as we had finished dinner to-day there was a hasty knock at the door and Bob Green rushed in. We thought he was going to cry "Sail, ho," but it was to say there was a sea-elephant on the Flat Rocks. These are about four miles away to the east of the Hardies. We at once started off, Mrs. Green coming with us as far as her sister's. A number of women and children were on the way; the men had already gone armed with their guns. At the potato patches we had to descend the cliff and go for some way along the shore. The men awaited us at a point where the sea was breaking on to the cliff and helped us over. We had to watch our opportunity and make a run for it. We were now in sight of the sea-elephant, which looked like a black log lying on the beach. It was a young one and measured about twelve feet in length. When discovered it was asleep. The coast is very picturesque just there, high rocks standing out in the sea. We all trooped home together and got back in the early evening.

Wednesday, May 15.—The men were all out today cutting up the sea-elephant, which when boiled down makes excellent oil for burning.

A ship was seen off the settlement, but it was too late to let the men know in time for them to get back and go out to it. It came well in and we regretted it was not taking our letters.

Thursday, May 16.—A four-masted ship was descried towards dusk.

Friday, May 17.—This morning Repetto came to the school window and asked me to go and see his wife who had been taken ill in the night with a bad heart attack, and for about two hours had been unable to speak. I found her in much the same condition. After taking a little brandy she felt better, and improved as the day wore on.

Thursday, May 23.—The cattle are looking so different this year; the men say they have not seen so much grass at this time of the year for years. When Mr. Keytel was here he showed the men how to shoot an ox, dispatching one with his first shot. I am glad to say that since that they have tried to do the same. The men are longing for a ship as they have run out of tobacco. Scarcely any one possesses matches now, so we have constant requests for them.

We have begun asking two at a time of the older people to have tea with us on Wednesdays. The younger married people we shall ask to supper, as they do not mind coming out at night. This afternoon we had old Caroline Swain who is seventy-nine and her sister Mary Glass who is ten years younger. Caroline has been more or less of an invalid for many years. We glean much of the past history of the island from the old people. They have been telling us of the visit of the Duke of Edinburgh in the Galatea in 1867, in honour of whom the Settlement is called Edinburgh. They remember well his having dinner in this room, and how while he was having it, all unknown to him they vied with one another in trying on his hat.

In view of having an entertainment, we are teaching the girls some of the "Golden Boat songs" as well as recitations which the boys also are learning. It is rather an effort, but we think it will give pleasure. Some of the infants are learning "Three little kittens" and say it charmingly.



Wednesday, May 29.—To-day has been a fete day. It is Will Swain's birthday. He is one of the two young men lately returned from the Cape which, I suppose, accounts for the festivities being on such a grand scale. Two sheep were killed, and the Swains gave a dinner to every one on the island. The elders had dinner at the Hagans' who have the largest room, and the children at Susan Swain's. They sent us a cooked chicken for our dinner.

Saturday, June 8.—So far we have had a much better winter than last year, there has been more sunshine and less wind.

Graham is gradually getting the meteorological apparatus up. He and Repetto have put in the garden what resembles a meat-safe. It is the screen for the thermometers. I objected to its being placed in the middle of the garden, and so it has been removed lower down where it cannot be seen from the house, rather, I fear, to Repetto's regret who regards it as a very desirable ornament.

Friday, June 14.—Today William has been getting kelp to put on our garden. As the gate into the garden is not large enough for the cart to pass through a portion of the wall had to be pulled down.

Thursday, June 20.—Last Sunday evening Mr. And Mrs. Repetto came in. After a talk we had reading aloud and sang some hymns. One wishes one could be of more real help to the people. Yesterday we had old Eliza Hagan and Lucy Green to tea. Ellen sang to them some of Moody and Sankey's hymns to the accompaniment of her autoharp. Graham told them we thought of camping out a night or two on the mountain; at which they were much concerned and tried hard to dissuade us. At last Eliza said a comfortable air of conviction, "Mumma won't go with Puppa." He conveyed them home one on either arm, both being rather decrepit.

Saturday, June 22.—We are having a spell of cold weather, and snow is to be seen on the top of the mountain. It is more like our winter at home. Fortunately there is not much wind.

Thursday, June 27.—Today the men have all been working on a patch of ground near here, just across the Big Watering, which Henry has let us have for wheat. It has to be sown this month. They seem pleased to do it. They have been fairly busy lately cutting a large quantity of wood for the winter, which is piled near their houses. Old Sam Swain and Tom Rogers go out every month fishing in order to find out for Mr. Keytel when the fish are at their best.

Last night we had Tom and his mother to supper. She appeared soon after 5 o'clock and they stayed till about 9. We had fish cakes and a semolina mould with jam. Tom much enjoyed playing Tiddley Winks, and I think would have gone on happily till midnight. We ended the evening with a hymn and prayers.

Saturday, June 29.—We have spent the afternoon in the garden moving some of the Eucalyptus plants. Several are over a foot high and have very long tap-roots. We cannot plant them in any other garden, as the people say they would infect the soil with the white mould which is all over this garden. This mould has already rotted the roots of one or two. Ned and Charlie helped me to weed and to put small stones round the bed for a border. Little Charlie pulled up some Love-in-a-mist thinking it was a weed. When he found out what he had done, he turned away and buried his face in his arm and wept. We tried to console him, but it was some time before he could get over it. "He's skeered," said Ned.

Wednesday, July 3.—We have a little handmaid, Mary Repetto. She is delighted to come and is most capable. She comes for an hour twice a day, and receives a shilling a week. Early this morning Ben had a return of his fits, which seem rather worse this time; he has had five today. His sister Mrs. H. Green is much better. On Monday I took her to the wheatfield to help me to sow. We sowed the seed broadcast while Graham and her husband raked it in.

Friday, July 5.—We had our entertainment yesterday at five. I think every one was present with the exception of old Caroline Swain. I found out just at the last that the children were not changing their clothes, so I bustled them off home to do so. The whole affair lasted about one hour and a half and was the first of the kind the people had had on the island. Graham began with a reading, "Harry" from the Gordon League Ballads, and caused much laughter when he curtsied as Jim's wife did before the Queen. Some of the recitations were rather feeble, but perhaps we only were conscious of it. William in one piece was much pleased with shouldering Graham's gun, and when the auspicious moment came for him to pretend to shoot (a small boy at his side letting off a cap pistol), he looked quite white in the face. In "We are little sailors," the girls very effectually used pocket-handkerchiefs for sails. In another song they had to march, clap, and jump. The big girls enjoyed it quite as much as the younger. Charlotte Swain, who is rather fat, could not jump for laughing, and said, "I shall laugh a lot more yet." We finished with the National Anthem, which was quite new to them.

Thursday, July 18.—It is a long time since I have written in my diary, but I have twenty letters waiting to be dispatched. We have been even longer this year than last without being able to communicate with a ship. It is just four months since the schooner left. Every one is longing for a ship. The people are short of soap, but we have been able to give them a little.

We have been having decidedly cold weather which has told upon the young lambs, several having died at night.

A day or two ago I said to Robert Lavarello, a boy of ten who is supposed to be somewhat of a cook, "Could you make a loaf of bread?" "Yes," he answered, "I think I could." "Well," I said, "try, and bring the loaf for me to see." The next morning he appeared before breakfast triumphantly bearing a plate with a loaf on it covered with a white cloth to which was pinned the Italian tricolour. His cheeks glowed with pleasure as he displayed the loaf kneaded and baked by himself. It was far more successful than one I had baked that morning which had burst when taken out of the tin and which I was careful to keep in the background! As a reward he was presented with a tin of jam and a large leek which we heard was much enjoyed by his father, who ate it raw.

The Repettos came to supper last night. She looked so elegant in a muslin blouse, and with a very pretty print handkerchief, decorated with Swiss chalets and edelweiss, on her head. For supper we had fish soup thickened with vegetables, stewed apricots and tea. Our guests always eat so sparingly.



CHAPTER XXI

Thursday, July 25.—Sitting at breakfast we heard the joyful sound "Sail, ho!" We jumped up to look and then settled down to writing. The men were out at their potato patches, and when they got back decided not to try for the ship as she was too far east to be caught. Our hope of a ship is always raised after a north-west wind which appears to blow ships this way. But on many days this month had one come it would have been impossible for the boats to have gone out, as it was either too rough at sea or there was too much surf.

Friday, July 26.—Mrs. Repetto, who came in to ask me to show her how to knit my kind of heel, told me the men could have caught the ship yesterday if they had liked, but they "dallied about." If Repetto had been here I think perhaps a boat would have gone as I know he is anxious to get his letters off. In answer to a request from him Mr. B—— of Drogheda, Ireland, has sent a beautiful pig-skin satchel to be used as post-bag when going off to ships. It is a real boon, as the letters so often got wet.

A great number of illustrated papers was brought by the Greyhound, which we enjoy looking through when too lazy for harder work. There were also some Fortnightly and National Reviews, and the Nineteenth Century, which Graham enjoys and sometimes reads aloud to me. He gets through more general reading than at home. Wet days are spent by him in opening cases and arranging the contents in the loft in most precise order. Woe betide us if we disarrange anything.

The entertainment we had was so much enjoyed the people would like to have it again, so perhaps at the next full moon we may repeat it.

Friday, August 2.—We had the entertainment last night. At a rehearsal in the morning we made several improvements in the pieces. The "Hen and her Chickens" was charming. The tiniest children sat on the floor grouped round the clucking hen as her chicks, and when she got up to go they followed, giving delightful little jumps until they disappeared with her into the next room. Then another piece, "Thomas and his Donkey," was improved—at least so the audience thought—by the donkey suddenly kicking up his heels and throwing his rider, who lay sprawling on the floor. I think the people, especially the men, find the winter evenings long. Most of them go to bed betimes. Whenever we look out of our passage window long before we are thinking of going to bed ourselves, no lights are to be seen in the houses, unless it is Repetto's, who reads in bed when he can get oil.

Poor little Jock is having such bad fits. We sometimes think we shall have to put an end to him.

The thermometer registered 44-1/2 degrees last night. There was a cry of "Sail, ho!" raised this morning, but the supposed ship turned out to be a cloud. We have learnt to take these cries calmly for they often end in nothing.

Saturday, August 10.—On Wednesday we gave the school a holiday. It came about in this way. Will Swain arranged with Bill Green that they two should give Graham a treat. He was to try his hand at driving a team of oxen. The treat was quite a success. They fetched two loads of wood which had been cut and left on the hillside about four miles off. The load has to be built up very carefully. For the foundation a strong spreading branch is chosen with the trunk end turning up like the runners of a sleigh. This branch is called the "rider," and on it are piled the other branches to the height of about four feet. The load is bound together by cords, and the oxen attached to it by a strong chain. Graham managed to drive his load without upsetting it and with only the loss of one piece. The load was a present to us, and was, we believe, a delicate return for money lent the two men to buy spades with when the Greyhound was here. Graham had said they could work it out by digging the wheat-field, but as "all hands" did that, probably the two thought they would like to give the wood.

Today William brought in a bird which he called a "Starchy," but which is just like our old friend the garden thrush. He says there are lots of them on the hill. They have no song.

A great many of the Eucalyptus trees have died. We think we ought to have transplanted them earlier, but were told that July was the right month and so waited until then.

Wednesday, August 14.—We are awaiting our usual Wednesday guests. On these occasions I always wear a white skirt and blouse. Of our friends, Mrs. Repetto is the only one who has attempted any elegance, most have come in jackets. Yesterday, I am sorry to say, she had another heart attack. The children came down for some brandy. We went up to see her and she seemed only half-conscious. I thought a hot bottle might do her good, so went home to get one. This morning when I went in she was up and lying in a deck-chair in front of the fire. It is difficult to know what these attacks of pain at the heart arise from. I believe they begin with shivering.

On Monday, as I was going up to school, I saw Eliza Hagan waiting about. Soon I heard "Mumma," and then followed an invitation to four-o'clock tea that day, and as I was going, "Puppa must come too" was called out. Accordingly we appeared punctually at the hour named. A table was spread with a white cloth. Susan Hagan, Rebekah, and Willie Swain were present, but only four partook of the tea, our hostess, Mrs. Lucy Green, who lives in the house, and ourselves. We sat on a bench drawn up to the table which was graced by a most excellent cake, and we learnt that a quantity of butter and six eggs had been used in the making of it. The large room was lit by a very dim light. Ellen was invited next day.

Friday, August 16.—We have been up to the top of Bugsby Hole again. We had taken Ellen, and on our return found William had been thoughtful enough to feed the fowls, boil some water at his home and make us tea. He had also fetched a load of wood as a present. Of his own accord at morning prayers he always places our Bibles on the table ready for us.

We have now been five months without a ship.

Thursday, August 22.—Early this morning we were greeted by the news that a steamer was passing in the far distance and could just be discerned. The sea was far too rough for the men to think of going out. But it is something even to see a ship. Perhaps another will follow.

We are having quite a cold spell of weather with a bitter wind. After school I went down to the seashore to take some photographs, as there was a fine sea with rather grand effects.

Graham went for a walk on the shore this afternoon, taking little Jock, who unfortunately picked up a stinging fish; Graham got it from him, but was too late to prevent its stinging him. He gave little squeals, and finally fell down as if dead. Graham picked him up and made for home. On the top of the cliff he stopped to rest, where, upon being put down Jock opened his eyes, when Graham rubbed him, and before long he came round and seemed quite himself again.

Saturday, August 24.—This has been an exciting day. I was baking bread when there came a quick tap at the passage window. Mrs. Bob Green had run down to tell us there was a steamer to the west. I at once got out the letters, added hasty post-scripts and dated them. Graham soon came hurrying in and also began to write. He made up his mind to go as the sea was very smooth. Two boats put off. From the higher ground we could see the steamer, which was coming along very slowly. The boats had a good long wait for it. When it came up our men were allowed on board and stayed for about an hour. It was making its first voyage and was bound for Bombay, but was calling at Durban. We, therefore, hope our letters will reach England the first week in October. Graham said the Peak, seen from the water, was covered with snow. The thermometer lately has now and again been as low as 44 degrees.

We find we are sixty-five minutes behind time. The people had told us our clocks were slow. The Hagans have on their doorstep a sun-mark cut by a shipwrecked captain, from which they can tell the time. Only a few families own clocks.

Monday, August 26.—Poor little Jock is no more. He did not turn up for his breakfast, but I thought perhaps he was having a game with John Glass's puppy. When we came back from morning service I went in search of him but could not find him. Just before lunch Susan Repetto ran in to tell us as she was driving the geese across the Big Watering she had found him lying dead in the water. We went to look, and there a little way up the stream, was poor little Jock. He had no doubt had a fit and rolled down the bank.

We are revolving in our minds the question of having to stay with us from Tuesday till Saturday one of the younger girls of each family by turn. The child could quite well sleep on the sofa. Ellen is anxious we should have them and would bathe them and do their hair. We think this plan might teach them ways of cleanliness and in other respects influence them for good. When at school I often have to dispatch a scholar to the stream. It is surprising what a presentable appearance the people have, but we want them to have something more.

We were so amused on Sunday by three boys, just before morning service, bringing this message from William, "Would Mr. Barrow lend him his boots to go to church in?" Ellen's reply was short: "This is not a boot shop," and tickled the little boys immensely. Many and various have been the requests, but I think that one surpasses them all. One day a small child was sent to borrow our broom. An old one was lent which has not been seen again. Several of our goods are already bespoken in view of our departure eighteen months hence.

The dogs have been worrying and killing sheep, and yesterday drove three into the sea, where they were drowned. As a result several of the dogs have been shot. Complaints were made to Repetto about his dogs, and half in temper he picked up his white fox-terrier and hammered it to death, as he thought, and threw it into the tussock. In a few days it crawled back to the house and had to be shot. Animal life is little thought of here. It is no wonder the dogs prey as they do, for many are half famished.

Thursday, August 29.—Rose Swain came to stay with us yesterday. She was a little tearful at first, but as she is only seven this was but natural. In appearance she might be an English child, having a fair skin and light wavy hair. She is not very strong, but is quick in learning.

Saturday, August 31.—This week the men have been building one or two huts at the potato patches as they have there no shelter from the rain. They are actually putting in fire-places. The people often get wet, and as a consequence suffer a good deal from lumbago, which they call "the stitch."

Ellen has begun a class for little boys and girls on Sunday afternoon. She is also taking in hand Caroline Swain, the oldest inhabitant, whom she calls for each Sunday to take to church, and again on Tuesdays to take her to the women's meeting; for which attention her old friend is very grateful.

At the end of afternoon service there is a practice for the next Sunday. Two or three weeks ago we tried part-singing much to the pleasure of the men, who now all come up to the front. What they need is a man's voice to lead them. Ellen and I do what we can, but it is rather a case of the blind leading the blind.

Thursday, September 5.—On Tuesday we saw a number of people running eastward, and meeting some one he told us Graham had seen a sea-elephant on Big Beach and had gone to shoot it. It appears he had started for a short walk on the cliffs, and seeing something dark lying on the beach, went down there, and saw what looked like a sea-elephant. He ran home for his gun and sent word to the men. Returning to the beach he shot it. When the elder men saw it, one or two said it was a sea-leopard, and such it proved to be. It was the stenorhyncus leptonyx, the most powerful seal of the Antarctic, and a rare visitor to Tristan, only two others having been seen by the islanders. It had short, light-grey hair, in parts turning to green, and measured in length ten and a half feet.

We have been having very cold weather, and yesterday morning the thermometer registered 40 degrees. Several slight snowstorms passed over the settlement and left their traces on the hills. It is many years since snow has fallen so low down.

We have little Edith Swain staying with us. Her mother was rather doubtful about her coming, but hearing, I think, that Rose was happy, she decided to let her come, and sent her looking very tidy. The child seems quite contented and happy and is no trouble. Each little guest goes back with a new undergarment.

Saturday, September 7.—I think people at home would be amused with the contents of our sitting-room, which at present has to be kitchen and larder. On a side-table are a ham in pickle, a goose, butter and eggs; on the fire an array of pots, and around it clothes airing for the Sabbath. The fact is the kitchen stove-pipe has collapsed. Repetto is trying to make a new piping out of oil drums. We turn out most excellent bread now, so that our many failures of the past have somewhat sunk into oblivion.

Early this morning I was called by Mrs. Lavarello to her boy Robert who had injured his leg in cutting flax. The cut was a bad one and ought to have been stitched; I did not attempt that, but washed and bandaged it and left injunctions that he should give it complete rest.



CHAPTER XXII

Tuesday, September 10.—We had the pleasure of seeing a ship today. The weather was anything but good for going out, and after they reached the shore two or three of the men decided not to go. It was really hardly fit and got more squally as the day went on. The ship, it was evident, wanted to call. When the boats got fairly near a squall came on and they nearly missed her. Indeed, they turned to come home, but the captain saw them and brought his ship round. She was the Loch Katrine, which called here last year and took our second batch of letters. The men returned home in one boat, having left the other at the Penguin Rookery some way east. They had a hard pull up from there and they and their goods were wet through. When we were at supper Henry Green came in with presents from the captain: a tin of Danish butter, two packets of compressed hops, and an especial packet for myself containing some Brown Windsor soap and a sprig of heather—a charming thought. I had another parcel from the steward, who sent soap and a bottle of scent. Our kettle has begun to leak, so we asked Repetto to try for one from the ship; and the captain kindly gave him a good old copper one, which, though it has a hole, we think will do us good service, for our men are very clever at mending their pots and kettles.

Rob did a dreadful deed yesterday. Graham and I had taken him with us for a walk up the hill, sitting down several times to have a talk. As we got up to return we suddenly missed him, and whistled. Just then Johnny Green and Arthur Rogers came in sight and called out "Rob has killed a sheep." We could not believe it for he had been gone only a minute or two, but he answered the whistle and then we saw the blood on his mouth and knew it was only too true. If only the boys had called out sooner we should have been in time to save the poor sheep's life. It is rather a blow to us, for if he does this sort of thing he will have to be shot, and that would be dreadful for he is such a faithful old fellow. Unfortunately, it is not the first time he has attacked a sheep; last week, when he was out with William, he ran after one; William, hearing a barking, ran to look and found his dog and Rob attacking. He gave Rob a whipping and sent him home and, although it was a long way, home he came. Since then we have been keeping an eye upon him. Mrs. Martha Green, the owner, was very nice about it and refused any compensation, but Graham left a sovereign on the table. It so happened the sheep was a lame one, or "a little sick," as the expression is here.

To-day we left school early and soon after noon were on our way to the potato patches where Graham wanted to help Repetto. We found quite a party there, the whole Repetto family with Alfred Green and William. They had just brewed tea. Mrs. Repetto was sitting under the lee of the wall, where a stone with a sack on it was placed for me. She was knitting, so I brought out mine. I am always impressed by her rugged and strong character. Certainly her children do not "best" her, as she is fond of saying. Arthur refused to do his work, that of putting manure in the trench. She just got up and gave him a good "hammering," mostly on his head and arms. He soon set to work. She is fond and proud of her children, but they know what is in store for them if they do not obey. The chastisement, no doubt, is deserved, but I wish she would learn to give it calmly and moderately. This is her week for serving us and almost daily she sends something extra. She will not accept anything in return.