Wednesday, June 27.—This morning to my dismay I found the rain had come down the chimney on to the bowl of yeast which Ellen and I had prepared with some labour, and had spoilt it.

Repetto came in this evening with the cover for the harmonium. It is a clever piece of work. He turns his hand to almost anything, and can even make his own suits. Tonight he was decidedly droll, and in his broken language gave us a description of a certain wedding. There was only one person, a woman, who was able to read the marriage service, and she would not, as she did not approve of the marriage. It ended in the bride's brother officiating, and, as he is no scholar, he had to spell out the words as he went along. How we laughed!

Thursday, June 28.—On Tuesday from half-past eight to midnight the rain gauge measured four inches of rain. We hear about twenty-four cattle have died. The cold wind and rain were fatal to them. The poor things could get no place of shelter. Graham wants the men to build some sort of shelter for the cattle, and those to whom he has spoken about it say it would be an excellent plan.

This morning we heard a cheerful clucking of fowls outside our bedroom window, and on looking out saw that the wind had blown the meat-safe over and emptied its contents on the path. The fowls were having a fine feast off the suet. Graham was just in time to save the half leg of mutton. We live on mutton week by week. Very occasionally a bullock is killed. Last week three families sent us beef.

Friday, June 29.—We shall feel relieved when we get our letters off, but at this time of year few ships are to be seen.

Mrs. Repetto came in pouring rain for some of the much-famed glycerine for her baby who is ill. I gave her also camphorated oil to rub on its chest.

Wednesday, July 4.—Bill Rogers brought us some vine cuttings which we planted and with great care nailed against the front of the house. The next morning one had been pulled up, probably by a pig. We suffer much from the animals. Fowls are always roaming round, and snap up every bit of green. Many of the ferns which we planted have been rooted up. A gate is to be put at each end of the path which will keep those intruders, at least the four-footed ones, from the front of the house.

Yesterday I started a women's meeting to which all over twenty years of age were invited. Twelve came. I read some of the Gordon League Ballads to them, and could see by their faces how much they enjoyed them. We had three hymns, and I spoke to them for about ten minutes, ending with prayer. I have given up the idea of teaching them reading and writing. I do not think they are keen about it, and life is full without it.

I was amused the other day by hearing that William calls me "The old missus."

Rob is quite an addition to our home. He is such an affectionate dog and very intelligent. In the morning when Ellen opens the front door to let him out, he will not go until he has first come in to say good-morning to us, then he goes out cheerfully. On no account would he miss going to school with me, and always expects to carry my basket. He has been less troublesome about running the sheep, although yesterday he ran at a sheep with a lamb. The sheep bolted, and when I whistled Rob he came bounding towards us with the lambling running by his side. The lamb was only three days old, and we had to carry it home, the mother having altogether disappeared. At first we had some difficulty in supplying Rob with enough food; but now he has taken the matter into his own hands and goes round to the different houses and gets a liberal supply of meat and bones. He always pays the Glasses an early visit, sometimes before they are up.

To-day Ellen and I gathered wood on the sea-shore and got such a quantity we did not know how to carry it home; happily Alfred Green was coming our way and "backed" it for us.

Tuesday, July 10.—An eventful day—the one we have been looking for. When I was resting after lunch there came a quick tap at the back door, and William hurried in to say a ship was in sight. We all rushed out, and getting on to higher ground saw her sails. We could also see our men running home from their work. We stood at Bill Rogers' gate where others had collected. They soon scattered to get ready to put off, though the wind was high and the sea rough. Children were sent out to catch the animals for barter. We came back to get our letters ready; among them were orders for groceries to the Army and Navy stores and to Messrs. Cartwright's at Cape Town. Mrs. Swain, junior, came in for our letters and told us only four men were going, her husband, Tom and Bill Rogers and Henry Green. We went down with her to the shore and met Ben who had come to fetch our letters as the boat was ready to start. We saw them hoist their sail and watched on with Mrs. Martha Green, Betty and Repetto until it began to grow dusk. Mrs. Bob Green had tea with us, and a little later Repetto came in anxious to have a talk. He and Graham stood at the front door trying in vain to make out the ship. Soon others came in to ask for oil and candle for their lanterns, so that they might be ready to meet the returning boat. At about six o'clock we turned out and made for the fire which had been lighted on the cliff. We had some difficulty in crossing the stream as we had no lantern. Looking after the fire was Rebekah, and later there came Mrs. Green, Alfred, Bob Green and the two other wives. The wind was blowing cold, and we were glad to sit near the blaze. You can picture the scene; pitchy darkness all round except where now and again gleams of light fell on the sounding sea below and made dimly visible the white line of surf. After staying some time, as there was no sign of the boat, we and the women went home.

It is now nine o'clock and still no sign of the men.

Wednesday, July 11.—As we were getting up news came that the boat was returning. We went down to the beach and found every one there and the boat just coming in. It had reached the vessel, which was bound for Australia. Henry Green went on board, and the captain, who seemed a very kind man, was able to let them have a barrel of flour, biscuits, and other things, and would have spared more had there been time. Henry was only about fifteen minutes on board. Our men made for Sandy Point, as the landing was easier, and spent the night there. We are so thankful to have got our letters off at last, and think they will reach home about the end of September. [Footnote: They reached home early in October.] The captain sent papers for the clergyman, which Graham was delighted to have, and from which we learnt of the terrible eruption of Mount Vesuvius and of the great fire at San Francisco. Among the papers was one from St. Helena. As regards the stores obtained, only those who went out to the ship and the widows will share in them. The rule is a man must go himself, unless ill or absent, to have a share in anything obtained in the name of the community. Sheep, geese, fowls, eggs and potatoes are the things bartered. It has been very difficult to settle down to-day, and there was only a short school. I did not go up to it, as I got my boots wet when the boat landed. A wave swept in while I was trying to stop a quarrel amongst the dogs. To get the salt water out of the leather my boots were put, after island fashion, into the brook for a time and then hung upside down on the garden gate to drain and dry.

Thursday, July l2.—We had our choir practice as usual and took up the harmonium, as we find with chants we cannot well do without it. The children sang scales.

I try a little cooking now and again, and have made some fairly successful potato scones. Ellen made some good bread this week with yeast. I claim a little of the glory of it, as I did most of the kneading! We find we are doing at present on one pound of flour a day for all purposes, but it has to be used very sparingly. We now generally use our stove every other day, as, though small, it consumes a good deal of wood which the people have to go so far to get.

Graham has been busy plastering the holes in the walls of the house, first filling them in with stone wedges. We have sent to Cape Town for lead for the roof. It is only when it is raining very hard that the rain comes through. The south wall in the sitting-room, passage and kitchen is a rich green colour from the damp. The people say this winter has been the wettest they have known for a long time.

Friday, July l3.—We had our first sewing-class this afternoon. Thirteen girls came. Nearly all produced thimbles, and their sewing was very much better than I expected. Ellen superintended the little ones, while I read aloud a book lent by Mrs. Susan Swain. We sat on forms near the door to get as much air as possible.

Saturday, July l4.—Graham was busy to-day whitewashing the front of the house; it was not easy work, as the stone is so rough. John Baptist Lavarello, a boy of twelve, and about the most intelligent lad here, helped him.



CHAPTER XI

I have drawn up a list of the people, starting from the house furthest east. The figures after the names denote the age.

1. Mrs. Martha Green (widow). Mr. and Mrs. Henry Green. Alfred, 17. Ethel, 15. Maria, 11. Johnny, 9. Christopher, 1.

2. Mr. and Mrs. Sam Swain, senior. Charlotte, 21. Lily, 19. Ruth, 17. Selina, 9. Maggie, 7. Bill Green (lodger).

3. Mr. and Mrs. Repetto. Mary, 11. Martha, 9. Susan, 7. Arthur, 6. Willie, 4. Joe, 1.

4. Mrs. Rogers (widow). Tom. Mr. and Mrs. Sam Swain, junior. Harry, 7. Edith, 5. Tommy, 3. Eliza, 9 months.

5. Mr. and Mrs. Andrew Swain. Fred, 12. James, 9. George, 8. Rose, 5. Clara, 3.

6. Mr. and Mrs. William Rogers. Arthur, 6. Lizzie, 4. Jack, 10 months.

7. Mrs. Lucy Green (widow).

8. Mr. and Mrs. Bob Green. William Rogers, 15. Sophia Rogers, 11. Edward, 5. Charlie, 4.

9. Miss Cotton.

10. Mr. and Mrs. John Glass. Florence Swain, 3.

11. Mrs. Mary Glass (widow). Miss Caroline Swain. Mr. and Mrs. Lavarello. John Baptist, 10. Robert, 8. Willie, 6. Percy, 3.

12. Mrs. Eliza Hagan (widow). Mr. and Mrs. Andrew Hagan. Emma, 12. Mabel, 9. David, 5 months.

13. Mrs. Susan Swain (widow). Ben, 35. Rebekah, 28.

Mrs. Lucy Green is living with Mrs. Eliza Hagan, and Miss Cotton in an annexe to the house in which Bob Green lives.

Wednesday, July l8.—This afternoon Ellen and I decided to try our hand at craw-fishing, as the contents of our larder were rather low. She got some meat from Mrs. Glass, and we set forth furnished with a pair of tongs in place of a landing-net. As we neared the rocks we saw two figures silhouetted against the rays of the setting sun which proved to be those of Mrs. Glass and her daughter Mrs. Lavarello. We did not succeed in catching anything, but Mrs. Lavarello gave us her catch of three crawfish and two small fish. She caught an octopus, which they call cat-fish, horrid-looking creatures:—how she could handle them I do not know.

Birthdays are thought a good deal of here. If a household possesses any tea or coffee, then open house is kept for the whole day, and any one can drop in from early morning till late in the evening and expect a cup of something. On the first occasion of a birthday we were invited, but Graham felt it would not be wise to accept, as if we went to one we should have to go to all. We are always apprised of a birthday by a present from the person whose birthday it is. The present may be a pair of socks or stockings, or a hot dish of meat, or a pot of tea, or almost anything to be had. Of course, we give something in return, often a tin of jam in the case of an elder. The last birthday was Mrs. Hagan's, to whom we offered the choice of a couple of candles or a tin of jam; she chose the former. They much treasure a piece of candle.

We find our medicine chest greatly appreciated, and every remedy is thought a great deal of. I gave two rhubarb pills to a patient, and was told she had had no ache or pain since. She was rather poorly, and had taken to her bed, having caught a chill the night of the bonfire.



Friday, July 20.—This morning after first school I took a photograph of the children.

We have been measuring our rooms. The sitting-room is 16 feet by 11 feet 6 inches. Our bedroom is 9 feet 9 inches by 8 feet 8 inches. Ellen's room 6 feet 8 inches by 6 feet. The kitchen 11 feet 3 inches by 6 feet 4 inches. The height is 7 feet 2 inches.

Saturday, July 21.—Today it has been blowing a gale. I was up soon after seven as it was baking day, but found it was no good attempting to bake as the oven could never be heated with such a wind, so I raked the fire out. Tomorrow we must do without bread. Graham started off early for school, escorting home Mrs. Hagan, who had brought the meat. As they got on to the rising ground they were both blown over, and coming back from school he was blown down again. I didn't venture out, but nearly all the children turned up, the younger ones being carried by their parents. This afternoon, however, though it was still blowing, I went with Graham to the foot of the mountain to get some drinking water at the spring. We do not drink water from the stream outside, as on its way to us it passes other houses, and we do not know what may go into it. Our bedroom today was covered with dust from the thatch. Betty Cotton came in to tea. Sitting in the armchair she chatted away most cheerfully. She has not lived all her life here, but has been away twice to the Cape where she was in service. She would have returned again to South Africa, but for her old father and mother whom she stayed to look after. Her heart is really at the Cape. She is one of those who tries to carry out Mr. Dodgson's teaching, and is rarely absent from church. Another woman told Ellen today if she had to creep on her hands and knees tomorrow to get to church, she would do it rather than miss going. I believe Mr. Dodgson once actually did reach church in this way.

Monday, July 23.—A poor cow of Andrew Swain's sank in the bog yesterday and the men could not get it out. They succeeded, however, in rescuing one of Lucy Green's; the poor thing looked so wet and miserable standing under the wall of Lavarello's lamb-house. The cattle question is a very serious one and ought to be dealt with. Repetto has been here this afternoon, and Graham has been talking it over with him. The fact is, there are far more cattle than there is pasture for. People who have left the island still own cattle and sheep here, which ought not to be allowed, because there is not enough grazing ground for the cattle of the residents. It is too painful to see the cattle, they are so emaciated, and their back legs seem hardly able to support their bodies. Repetto says they will look worse still. We are hoping something may be done when the man-of-war comes.

Tuesday, July 24.—William told us Betty's cow that had been put in her field adjoining this garden was ill. Graham went with the boys to look after it and fed it with grass. This evening it was dead. Like the others it died from starvation. Mrs. Lucy Green has lost two, the one that was got out of the bog and another that fell over the cliff. We are determined to do something if possible to stop the suffering. The pigs which are allowed to roam at large do much damage by rooting up the grass.

There were only eight at the women's meeting today. Graham gave the address. Mrs. Repetto, who had not been before, stopped on the common to tell us "It was the best afternoon she had spent in her life, better than any party." It was an encouragement when so few were there. Some are kept away by having to go out two or three miles for milking, the cows being too weak to be driven home. Betty and Martha Green could not come because they were preparing a meal for the men who are carting manure to Betty's potato patch. It is the custom to feed those who are working for you.

Wednesday, July 25.—I had to get up in the night as Ellen was feeling ill. She had a bad pain in the back of her neck which was relieved by the application of a mustard-leaf. She did not get up all day. So I was kept busy, even with the assistance Graham was able to give before and after school. As we had not baked for nearly a week, I had to bake bread as well as to cook the dinner. Graham broiled the chops; the kidneys twice fell into the fire, and were finally lost.

It has been raining most of the day. Mrs. Hagan told me a cow of hers had fallen over the cliff and been killed. I was almost thankful to hear there was one less to suffer.

Friday, July 27.—Before we were up William brought news that a ship was in sight, but too far eastward to reach. Directly after breakfast the men started shooting a bullock which darkness the night before had prevented them bringing down. The poor creature was chased by men firing shots, and it was some time before they succeeded in shooting it. Mrs. Hagan ran in to say the ship was in sight again, and she thought the men were going out to it. I went up to the school to see what Graham was going to do. We gave a short lesson, dismissed school, and came home to finish our letters. Repetto ran in to ask Graham if he were going. I went down to see them off. I always enjoy seeing a boat launched and the men scrambling in as it is shoved off. The only thing I do not like to see is the way the poor animals are treated, tossed into the boat with legs tied, quite regardless as to whether it hurts them. The two boats started about 11.30, and in about an hour and a half reached the ship, having sailed most of the way. I followed them on and off with the glasses. They got back about five, and we could tell they had done well, for they were singing as they came in. The vessel was the Loch Katrine, a sailing ship from Glasgow. The captain for the last nine years had been trying to call, but the weather was against him. He was exceedingly kind, and able to provide the islanders with a good deal of food in exchange for what they had brought. He let them have a large barrel of flour, biscuits, tea, coffee and sugar. The bottom of the sugar barrel fell out and the sugar lay on the deck; but that was soon remedied: it was all swept into a bag. The bag had contained meat, but that was a small detail. One of the passengers on board bought two sheep for the crew, and with his other fellow-passenger made many exchanges with the islanders. The captain was most kind and generous to us. He asked Graham if there was anything he wanted, so Graham named a keg of butter. But that he could not provide, and asked if there was anything else. Graham thought of bacon, and then the captain said would he like a ham? Not only did he give that, but a large tin of arrowroot, a bottle of pickles, and a bottle of preserved greengages; and sent in addition two or three pounds of tea as a special present to me, saying he wished it were something better. The steward, too, said he would like to send "the lady" a present from himself, and sent six pieces of scented soap. It was exceedingly kind of them. The captain said his life was a trying one, there being anxiety and worry day and night. Graham got the time, and found we were forty minutes behind. He was ill going and returning, but soon felt better after he had got warm and had food, for he had virtually had nothing since breakfast. How we enjoyed looking at our presents! After such an exciting day we didn't sleep much. The letters will be posted in Australia.

Saturday, July 28.—It being a lovely afternoon Ellen and I went eastward to gather wood on Big Beach, where we collected as much as three could carry. Graham and William came to help us home with it. Ellen carried some in her skirt, Graham took off his jacket and made a bundle, and William "backed" a bagful.



Tuesday, July 31.—It has been a busy day. I made scones before breakfast and baked them on tins over an open fire, baking my face at the same time. I was at school for two hours, and then sat down to machine till dinner-time. At three o'clock I took the women's meeting, where we finished the twenty-third Psalm. It was blowing and raining hard when we came home. We found Repetto repairing for us a pair of bellows that had belonged to Mr. Dodgson. Charlotte Swain came for some glycerine for her mother who has asthma again. Later, Rebekah came in with her niece Mabel, bringing some tablecloths her mother had ironed. Mabel shyly offered us some fish. Rebekah stayed some time, Repetto till seven. The cattle question was again discussed with him. Fifty-four have already died. If we are only able to do some good as regards the cattle it will have been something worth coming out for. I cannot bear to look at the poor creatures. One of Betty's has several times got into our garden and had a good feast. A few days ago it calved. So many have calves; I do not know how they live. To finish the account of the day's work, after supper bread had to be made. Alas! in the morning it turned out to be rather heavy.

Repetto, who is very fond of reading, has lent us a short biography of Melanchthon, which we are reading aloud.

In one of the Glasgow papers that came from the Loch Katrine there is a notice of De P——'s sudden death in Paris. It is curious we should have learnt the news in this way. We never find time to read till the evening, and even then it often has to be put aside for writing.

We are glad to be getting through the winter. The thermometer has never been lower than 44. The winds are very keen, and lately an east wind has been blowing, which is unusual.

I find teaching infants needs much patience, but some days they are much brighter than others. They are getting on, and the four elder ones can read short words quite easily. They each have a book and read round in turn. The others, who know their alphabet, stand round, too, but of course take in but little. The four can actually add two to a number, and Arthur Repetto can even add four and five together. He puts his back into whatever he does. His mother is, I believe, rather stern with her children; and some think they are whipped too much. However this may be, they seem to be turning out well. Certainly all the mothers seem to teach their children good manners; for example, if our boy William sees me standing in school, he will get up and offer me a seat. He is very thoughtful, and if we express a wish about anything, it is sure to be done. His duties are to chop wood, to go to the spring for the drinking water, and to fill the pails twice a day. If he happens not to be at home he always sees that some one else does his work.

Thursday, August 2.—This afternoon after choir practice Ellen and I went down to the rocks, although it was very cold, to try to catch craw-fish. We had not started fishing when we saw William running towards us. He came to say a ship was in view to the west and that the men were going off. So of course we hurried up again to get our letters ready. The boats put off about five o'clock and probably will not be back before daylight.

Friday, August 3.—The men returned late last evening after a fruitless journey. Although it was a moonlight night they failed to sight the ship. They were very wet.

Graham is digging the lower part of the garden. It is covered with turf which, as he removes, he banks up to form a little shelter from the wind for the vegetables, if ever there are any. Flax shelters the bed on the other side. The digging is rather laborious, as there are large stones which have to be extracted with a crowbar. The soil is first-rate, and so far no mildew has been met with. One of the greatest enemies to the seeds will be the fowls, and because of them probably we shall have to sow first in boxes. Graham has made a needle and mesh so that we can make nets. Repetto has shown us how to start netting. It is not known who brought flax to the isle, but Betty says her father and his contemporaries brought it to the settlement from Sandy Point.



CHAPTER XII

Friday, August 10.—We had a gale last Wednesday. It was with some difficulty we got to the women's meeting which had been postponed the day before on account of the weather; we had to go by a circuitous route. Only three women came, and I was debating whether to have the meeting when I missed my spectacles. I felt sure they had been blown off by the wind. Mrs. Repetto and Mrs. Hagan went off to search for them, and Ellen and I soon followed. It seemed rather a hopeless task as we had come by such a round-about way. I went home to see if I could possibly have left them behind; but no, they were not there. The loss of them was rather serious, as I had broken my pince-nez the day after landing. I felt sure they would be found if only we searched long enough, and presently I came across one half of them. By this time about fourteen people, men as well as women, were looking for them. The gale was terrific, and when the gusts came the only thing to do was to crouch down. It was a comical sight, and I wish I could have photographed it. I was caught hold of several times by one of the elder girls and held when the gusts came. I promised a pot of jam to the one who should find the other half of the spectacles. We had been out over an hour and were beginning to think we must leave further search till the morning when John Glass found it. It had been blown some distance from the spot where I had found the first half. Glass was going to take them home to try to mend them when he was called off to a poor cow that had fallen down. At his suggestion Graham took them to Repetto, who brought them down in the evening. He is going to mend my pince-nez with a watch spring. From what he told us I fear the loss of cattle must be close upon a hundred.

Monday, August 13.—We have been building a most delightful castle in the air to-day. If a man-of-war comes we might go back in it to Cape Town and try to arrange with some enterprising person to come in a schooner and buy up the cattle here at a low price. What commissions we should have to execute for the people!

This has been a full day from morning till evening. I began laundry work at 7.30, made a yeast, then potato-cakes, superintended the planting of peach-slips against the house, paid a visit to Mrs. Henry Green, and entertained about seven visitors—several with requests to be attended to. Graham was digging all the afternoon.

Tuesday, August 14.—Little Edith Swain, one of the infants, has had a cough, and as her mother said she thought she had not warm enough clothing, I set to and knitted her a vest in two days. This morning Edith appeared alone, and pushing past Ellen, who opened the door, came and put into my hand something tied up in a pocket-handkerchief, which something proved to be a pair of stockings. Her mother, who came in later, told me that Edith asked if she could not give Mrs. Barrow a present, so she gave her the pair of stockings to bring. She said to her mother, "Did you offer Mrs. Barrow a cup of tea when she came?" She is not a very bright child and cannot learn her ABC, though she learns by heart very nicely.

The Repetto's youngest child, Joe, who is not yet two, asked his father for a book the other day and marched off to school with it. He got across the brook without getting wet, and as he neared the school door was heard singing, "Onward, Christian Soldiers." His sister Martha soon dispatched him home, poor little fellow. Repetto came this afternoon with the pince-nez which he had mended. He stayed supper and gave us further instruction in netting.

Wednesday, August 15.—Today I sowed flower seeds; a performance which intensely interested the children who crowded round the front door. I used biscuit-tins for boxes, which William filled with soil. I have planted bulbs of a Mentone creeper, love-in-a-mist, heather, sweet peas and canna seeds. One does sadly miss the spring flowers. Afterwards I went down to the beach with Sophy and the Repetto girls to pick up wood. Rob carried the canvas bag which was rolled up, and it was amusing to see him careering after the sea-hens (skua-gulls) at a tremendous pace with the bag in his mouth. The girls picked up more wood than we could carry home. We have had some more peach-slips brought, which we have planted under the shelter of the flax, and yesterday William brought more than a dozen apple trees and cuttings, and is going to bring some young fig trees. Thus we shall have quite an orchard, if they grow, but the "if" is a big one. The people do not seem to take any trouble with their fruit trees and hardly ever prune them. Perhaps they are disheartened on account of the rats. Most of the orchards are a long way off in sheltered ravines round the island.

The men lead fairly busy lives. Last month they were occupied in drawing out manure in the quaint bullock wagons to their potato patches, which are about three miles off. It was no easy business as the bullocks were not up to the work owing to their starved condition. Each man possesses about three pairs of bullocks. This week they will begin planting potatoes, and some of the children will have to be away from school as their help will be needed.

This evening I made the small boys help to gather grass for the cattle, which we threw to them over the wall. It gave me great satisfaction to see them eating it, and a particularly lean one had quite a good feast. I try to feed them every day, and get the Repetto girls to help.

I feel a little elated as I have made some rather good bread.

There was a thunderstorm to-day. The weather is quite spring-like, the days are warm but the nights cold.

Ellen and I had such an evening yesterday. With much misgiving I determined to try to develop some films—my first attempt. The kitchen was the darkroom. We began operations soon after supper and did not get to bed till nearly midnight. The developing was done under great difficulties. The candle had to be renewed two or three times, and I was left in total darkness at most critical moments. Notwithstanding, nine out of twelve have come out fairly well. I hope I shall manage better next time.

Repetto has been talking over the cattle question with some of the men, and telling them how much better off they would be if they limited the number of cattle and sheep to be owned by each family, say, to ten cattle and fifty sheep. He pointed out to them what a benefit it would be if a schooner could come yearly to trade. He thinks the cattle ought to sell at L3 a head. If possible Graham would go to the Cape with one of the men chosen by themselves.



Friday, August 24.—Yesterday a ship came close in, but the sea was rough and the men were busy at their potato patches.

Monday, August 27.—Saturday was very blustery, and the rain came down in torrents. We kept thinking of the poor cattle. Several were sheltering under the wall at the bottom of the garden and looking so miserable. Ellen and I felt sure one or two would be gone by morning; and sure enough they were. Altogether twelve died that night. It really made me feel ill. The number of deaths has now reached to one hundred and eighty-four. Betty's cow that has several times clambered into the garden comes round sometimes in the middle of the night, clattering up the stone pathway to see if it can get in. It has just calved. The men are all very down-hearted, never having had such losses before. Henry Green has lost over forty. Repetto, who does not own many, has lost four, two bullocks and two cows, within a few days. The two cows he had lately kept in his garden. Graham told him that he thought the islanders had brought the loss upon themselves by keeping too many.

Tuesday, August 28.—Yesterday the wind was bitterly cold, to-day we are in the lee and it is quite mild.

We had an early dinner as Graham had promised Rebekah to help her plant potatoes. He went off with spade on shoulder and did not get home till supper-time. Rebekah, accompanied by young Mrs. Swain, brought in some cooked lamb for his supper. Mrs. Swain said Tom was full of his praises because of the way he had worked; "he had done it better than any stranger, and real splendid."

We heard to-day that the number of lost cattle has reached two hundred. A very wet night.

Wednesday, August 29.—To-day we have come across so many dead animals. This morning close to the school a heifer, then this afternoon when Graham and I went out for a walk we saw near Miss Cotton's field close to the stream a poor dying ox. Graham went in search of some one and met Lavarello coming with a bag of grass, but the poor beast was too far gone to eat. I told Lavarello I hoped he would kill it, and he said he would fetch a knife. We went on to the shore; there a young heifer lay dying, it had fallen off the cliff. Further on we saw a dead donkey, and coming up the cliff I saw another dead heifer. It makes one feel very sad and very angry.

Ellen, who is anxious to do a little teaching, is taking on Monday and Wednesday afternoons the children who are most backward in reading.

Saturday, September 1.—Yesterday just across the watering we came upon a poor cow which was down. I got it some grass, and the Swain girls coming up helped to heave it up into a better position. Then old Mrs. Glass brought it some more food, which it ate ravenously. We fed it again in the afternoon. It belongs to the Lavarellos, who in the morning managed to get it home. This is the only case I know of a cow which was down getting better.

Monday, September 3.—Betty's cow that we are so interested in has lost its calf. If more to eat had been given the mother I do not think this would have happened. The cow has been up to the house two or three times to-day, and I have fed her well each time. Poor thing, it is so hungry. We have had better weather the last few days, and are hoping for the animals' sake this will be a fine month.

Wednesday, September 5.—A most beautiful day. Graham and Repetto have been sowing carrots, onions, lettuce, and parsley. I have put in some flower seeds. I went several times to feed a poor bullock of Henry Green's. It was standing when we first saw it in the morning and was just able to get down to the stream to drink. I fed it frequently in the afternoon, but when I went again at five o'clock it would eat nothing and soon afterwards died.

The men were out fishing and brought back seven sacks of fish.

Monday, September 10.—Yesterday the fowls had a field day in the flower-bed, and scratched up and ate a good many of the sweet peas.

This morning news was brought that "Molly," Betty's sick cow, was down. Rebekah had found her early with her head caught under her body and too weak to free herself. She was got up, and we have been feeding her on and off all day. She stood in the field at the bottom of this garden until the evening, when to our great surprise she dragged herself to the front of the house where she has been so often fed. It is a wet rough night. I hope she will not succumb.

Wednesday, September l2.—Poor "Molly" died yesterday morning. It had poured hard all night, and she was found lying in Bob Green's yard. They got her up, but she fell, and was pulled up again. Then she ate a little, but again fell down panting, and nothing more could be done for her. I feel very indignant about it, for if she had had shelter and more food, both of which were possible, she would probably not have died. About two hundred and eighty cattle have now died, and each day is adding to the list.

After supper last night the Repettos came in. He was a little anxious about his leg, which he cut just above the knee when skinning an animal. The cut was rather deep, but it did not bleed. Now there is a lump which seems to be gathering. I bathed it with Condy's fluid then and again next morning, and told him to rest for two or three days.

It has been a lovely day; we have had so few with right sunshine and no wind.

Thursday, September 13.—This morning I photographed the Sam Swain family at their special request. Swain wants to send a photograph of the family to his mother at the Cape. There was such an attiring of themselves beforehand, but all the picturesqueness was gone when they appeared, for they had discarded their handkerchiefs. Charlotte wanted to know if they should wear hats instead. I was thankful to be able to say it would not do as they would cast a shadow on their faces.

On Thursdays we have choir practice. It is amusing to see the harmonium being carried up in triumph by two of the elder boys, a bevy of little boys following at their heels, and one proud boy bearing some music. At the end of the practice I have been teaching the children prayers for morning and evening. I told them that as soon as they could say them off by heart they should have the printed card. Last Thursday and to-day the children came up in turn to say them. It took rather a long time, but nearly all have gained the card.

Every afternoon now Graham is very busy building up the wall of the field below our garden as he is anxious to grow a crop of hay. The men are very dubious about it, but he intends to try for the sake of the cows. Tom Rogers took a cow and calf in a boat to the other side of the island where there is plenty of pasture. When he went to look at them yesterday the cow was dead. It had probably been taken too late.

Friday, September 14.—Another full day. I have been three times to young Mrs. Rogers to poultice an abscess. I have also been to bathe Repetto's leg. Then old Mrs. Rogers came in for some arrowroot which I had promised her for her daughter, Mrs. Bob Green, who has a baby girl. We had the sewing-class as usual, and after it Ellen and I with a group of children went to gather wood on Big Beach and got back home soon after five o'clock. Graham, helped by Johnny Green, spent the afternoon in building the wall of the field. It is rather heavy work getting large stones up the bank. The other evening while Ellen and I were developing films he was soling a pair of shoes. It was his first attempt at boot-mending, and he has done it remarkably well.

This is the season for penguin eggs, and we have had a number given us. We find them a great help in the daily menu. Milk at present is not obtainable and potatoes are getting very scarce.

Saturday, September 15.—This morning I photographed the Repetto and the Lavarello families, who want to send photographs to their relatives in Italy.



CHAPTER XIII

Monday, September 17.—We are taking a week's holiday, but to-day there has been little rest. I was up by 7.15 to do laundry work, then at 9.30 was with Mrs. Rogers dressing her wound. This afternoon I went to see Mrs. Bob Green and her baby, also Miss Cotton. The latter seems to think these are the worst times she has known. The people have never been without milk before. The number of cattle that have died has now reached three hundred and fifteen. The cow Bob Green is trying to save is slung in a shed. It is so weak it can hardly walk. Little Charlie frightened it the other day and it fell on its side. On Sunday it fell across the brook, from which position it was extricated with the greatest difficulty. If it had not been discovered it would have died.

Wednesday, September 19.—We have had two wet ays and have been very busy in-doors. The people being short of tea and sugar, we thought that on the anniversary of our wedding-day we would give out some we brought with us. Notice having been given, they appeared en masse at the hour named, but without anything to take provisions away in, so the younger women went back to get tins. Graham gave out the sugar (2 lbs. each), and I the tea (1 lb. each); but only half this quantity was given to widows and unmarried women. The people were very pleased, and one or two came back with offerings. I should think that in the last ten days we have had one hundred eggs given us. Tom Rogers went to Sandy point and brought back over two hundred penguin eggs. The men when they have spare time hunt for young eaglets, of which they are now bringing in great quantities. These are sea-birds, and look like grey, fluffy balls.

We have quite made up our minds to go to Cape Town to see about a schooner. Though there will be no cattle to sell there will be a great number of sheep. We shall take the first vessel we can get after October.

This morning it took me four hours to bake bread in a very hot kitchen.

Thursday, September 20.—This afternoon Ellen and I went to look at Mrs. Hagan's grey cow, which is slowly pulling round. As we were watching it the poor creature tripped going in at the gate, and falling on its side had to be pulled up.

Saturday, September 22.—I spent nearly all yesterday at photography. The morning was given to printing, the afternoon to developing the prints, and the evening to developing negatives, which were mostly groups of the different families and which came out fairly well.

Ellen and I have spent today at the potato patches. We started early, wending our way slowly. At Hill Piece Rebekah joined us. It was sad to see so many dead cattle lying about in every direction; the air is quite vitiated. The potatoes are coming on well. We had our lunch under the lee of a hill, at the foot of which were grazing a few miserable-looking cattle. We came home most leisurely, and just as we were arriving at the settlement heard that a vessel was to be seen to the west, and that the men were going out to her. Repetto came for our letters on his way down to the shore. But after all the men did not go, for when they got down to the boats they found the ship was not coming this way, but passing between the islands—that is, between us and Inaccessible and Nightingale, so they had to bring all their things up from the beach again.

Monday, September 24.—We began school to-day feeling much fresher for our holiday. Some of the men have gone off for penguin eggs. I wish they did not take them in quite such a wholesale way.

Tuesday, September 25.—The men returned to-day from Sandy Point with shoals of penguin eggs. Four different families have sent us some, seventy in all, and as they are a good size, rather larger than a duck's, it will take us some time to get through them.

This morning and afternoon I went to look at the invalid cows. Rebekah is not wanting in spirit. Her cow was "down" at the potato patches. She had it lifted into a cart and brought home at night. She has it slung and lets it take an airing in the day. To-day we found it lying down on its side as if dead, and if left long in this position it would have died. It was hauled up by the women and girls and set on its legs. I went to see the Hagans' and Tom Rogers' cows, which were out on the common. Both had to be pulled up, which was done with the utmost difficulty. Their poor sides get so sore from constant falls. The grass is really beginning to show a little growth, but not enough to get much food off it.

This has been a most beautiful day and the air quite balmy. The seeds, such as stock, nasturtium, linum, phlox, and sweet pea, are doing well in the garden. The greater number of the apple-trees are showing life. We watch everything growing with the greatest interest.

Wednesday, September 26.—About nine o'clock we heard there was a ship to the westward; but Graham went off to school. While there he was told Lavarello's cow was in the bog; and so he went out to it with Johnny and two of the elder girls, they fetched a rope, then he and Johnny took off their shoes and socks and waded into the bog. Soon several men came, who heaved up the back legs of the cow while Graham and the others pulled at the rope fastened to its horns. It was at last pulled out broadside on. Its legs had completely sunk in the bog, and it would probably have eventually sunk altogether, as many others before it, had it not been seen in time. When I arrived at school I found the children as quiet and good as if Graham were there. He soon came back, and almost immediately dismissed school as the men were starting for the ship. He made up his mind to go too. Only one boat was going, as some of the men had gone off early in the other boat to hunt birds and get eggs. There was such a packing of the animals into the boat; I do not like looking at them, they are so frightened. One poor lamb died on its way to the shore. Some one declared its death was caused by a child sitting on it, but I do not think it was. They started off about eleven o'clock and did not get to the ship till nearly three. At about six we went down to the shore with Mrs. Repetto to meet them returning. They had no sooner landed than Rob had a tremendous fight with her fox terrier. For some time we could not get them separated. Graham got Rob by the back legs and dragged at him. In the scramble we found ourselves in the surf, where I fell down. Still Rob held on. At last by slapping him on the head and by pulling at his collar he was made to let go. The fox terrier was snatched up and carried off.

The men were not very successful on the ship which was a Scotch one bound for Adelaide. They got about a barrel of flour and some peas and beans. Graham got a tin of butter which we think is margarine. We are glad to have it as we have had no butter for a long time. After a time one gets accustomed to going without. Our present difficulty is to get food for Rob. We do not think he gets much from the people now. We have just made an arrangement with the Repettos to let us have meat twice a week for him in exchange for paraffin oil. We got one or two books off the ship— Robert Falconer, and Youth and Duty, by Bishop Welldon. We have much enjoyed Temple Bar.

I have been turning out some summer clothes, and washing and mending them in preparation for the possible journey to Cape Town.

Saturday, September 29.—There is no doubt the best way to come out here from England is by a sailing ship bound for Australia, that is, supposing the ship would accept passengers for the island. The passage takes from forty-five to sixty days.

Wednesday, October 3.—Last Friday, after the working party, Ellen and I started off with a great number of children for Hill Top, near which there is a good deal of wood washed down by the flood in the early winter. The children enjoyed helping us to gather it; much of it was embedded in the mud. The men passing by on their way home also lent their help by carrying home some of the loads in sacks on their donkeys. There was much laughter over the loading of one of the donkeys which turned restive. We left a large heap behind to be brought by William another day. The oxen are so weak they are hardly fit to draw even a light load. The dead cattle now total three hundred and forty-eight.



On Sunday William brought in a penguin which Sophy had caught. It is a most droll bird in appearance, and has a yellow and black top-knot which it raises when excited. It walks very erect—if walk it can be called— sometimes jumping like a man in a sack, and sometimes waddling like a bow-legged child. In the place of wings it has black flippers, and when it walks these stand out like sails which adds to the droll appearance. This is the bird from which the people extract the oil which they generally burn, but it gives a very feeble light. On special occasions we have requests for paraffin oil, of which, fortunately, we brought a good supply.

Mrs. Andrew Swain has a little son. I have been once or twice to see her. There is always some neighbour sitting with her; to-day there were three.

Graham has been getting soil from the farmyards to spread over the field which is being put up for hay, and the wall of which he has just finished repairing. The oxen are doing the drawing, but it is very slow work, and I expect this year he will have to content himself with half the field. I fear the flowers will not do very well because of the wind, but still if only a few grow it will be something to look at. I should like to try anemones.

Mollyhawk eggs are just in. They are large in size, of a long oval shape, and with reddish-brown markings and spots. The men say this bird never lays more than one egg each season.

Sunday, October 7.—I got up about 6.30, made the beds and put the room straight before early service. After breakfast I generally practise hymns, and John Glass, who takes the harmonium up to church, comes in early, as do William and some of the boys, to listen to the music. Confirmation classes begin this week. Graham intends holding them twice a week, and hopes men will attend as well as women. The Bishop told us that if a man-of-war were sent he quite hoped to come by it.

Tuesday, October 9.—John Glass has made each of us a pair of moccasins. He brought them in with much satisfaction on Saturday evening, and we at once tried them on. They are made with rather pointed toes which do not quite suit our feet. They have to be put on damp so that they may take the shape of the foot; and when they get very hard, as they do in summer, have to be soaked in water. They soon wear out, generally not lasting longer than three weeks, as the ground is so rocky.

Repetto is writing letters to be corrected by Graham, and really writes them very well for one entirely self-taught. He and his wife are most generous people and are always sending us small presents. I shall have some quaint mats and little bags of skin made by the people to bring home.

The Hagans have lost the grey cow they watched over with such care. They started slinging it too late, with the result that it got so bruised by the constant falls it could not recover from them. Now they have only one left, and the Repettos also have only one. The people depend much on their milk.

An east wind has been blowing the last few days which tries the trees and plants. The little peach-tree against the house is almost done for. I protect the small seedlings in the garden by putting tins round and over them. Plants are almost twisted out of their sockets.

Thursday, October 11.—Yesterday Graham began the Confirmation Classes. Most of the elders attended—nine men and fifteen women.

John Glass came in to-day to have his hand treated. It was much swollen through, as he thinks, the bite of an insect. He had left it nearly two days uncared for.

Monday, October l5.—On Sunday morning just before service Mrs. Bob Green came in for a remedy for her husband's foot which was badly swollen, and from her account it also seemed to have been bitten by an insect. I went across and found she had bathed it in hot water. We bathed it again, adding soda. To-day it was very much better and our services not required. Their little girl was christened yesterday Annie Gertrude Ellen.

Graham rose this morning about four o'clock to make an expedition up the hill with William, Ben and several women. They got to the point where they would have to climb, but rain coming on it was thought wiser to go no further. Instead, they descended to the shore to pick up firewood.

This afternoon was rather harassing. Ellen was at school, and I had just begun baking when Mrs. Martha Green appeared. She brought a beautiful pair of stockings knitted by herself with great care, and also a present of eggs. She stayed nearly two hours. I called Graham to my aid, for I could not leave the bread. He took her round the garden, and by the time she came back I was able to get some tea made. While we were having it Rebekah came with a request for some sugar for an ailing child. A little later a gift of eggs was brought, with a further request for sugar for a baby. The people nearly always bring something when they come to ask for anything. It is a busy life here; some days there seems no quiet, it is knock, knock all day. I am beginning to feel the solace of gardening.

Saturday, October 20.—On Thursday a meeting was held on the question of a schooner coming to buy up cattle and sheep. Much had to be talked over. Every one has given the number of cattle and sheep he or she will sell. The question is whether there are enough to make it worth while for a schooner to call. They hope to have also for sale about L60 worth of potatoes and some wool. It is difficult to tell what the cost of a schooner will be.

Monday, October 22.—Almost every day one or another comes for medicine or for medical treatment. To-day John Glass came in with a badly cut hand. The simple remedies we brought have been a great boon.

Wednesday, October 24.—It is little Joe Repetto's birthday. He has brought a pair of socks for Graham, a pair of horns for Ellen with one of his curls tied on to them, and a pair of horns for myself. The horns are those of bullocks, and have been beautifully polished and mounted by his father. I had made a little white pinafore for Joe. He is two years old and has been coming to school for the last week or so, and behaves admirably. He sometimes falls asleep, and I have to take him on my lap as I teach.

We are daily hoping a ship will be coming this way. Betty Cotton says she never remembers such a time of scarcity,—no potatoes, no milk, and no flour. There is a little milk now, and the people are most kind in sending us some even when it is not their week for serving us.

Poor Rebekah has lost the cow she took so much trouble over. A fatal swelling of the throat set in. I saw a poor cow (with its calf) this afternoon in its eagerness to get at some food which was being brought it, fall over, it was so weak.

Last night Repetto, Mrs. Hagan and Rebekah were here. We tried to make them see the importance of growing corn, which we think could be done if it were shielded by flax; and also of starting enclosures near their houses for growing trees; but they are difficult to move and have not the same enterprise as the former generation. We have not been able to get any more dressing for the field. That part which has had it looks so different from the rest.



CHAPTER XIV

Monday, October 29.—On Saturday night there was such a gale from the north-west, and the sea was higher than it was all the winter, washing right up to the cliffs. We found sad destruction in the garden on Sunday morning, the flowers and vegetables being shrivelled up as if there had been a severe frost, even the grass and docks looked black; the peas which were in a most flourishing condition are ruined. Almost the only flowers that have not succumbed are those that were sheltered. Next year I shall try walled divisions on the flower-beds. Happily, the wind was not so severe at the potato patches, and they have been damaged but little.

Mrs. Lavarello is suffering from a bruised leg caused by a fall on the rocks when fishing. We urged upon her the need of resting it, but she thought she could not because of her work. It is now so painful she is obliged to keep it up almost entirely. I shall try to see her each day. This afternoon Graham and I went for a long walk along the shore. Rain coming on we tried to scale the cliff, but had to come down and return by the shore, the wind and rain beating in our faces. By the time we got home we were wet through, but felt all the better for the outing.

Tuesday, October 30.—A very wet day. No Women's Meeting.

Wednesday, October 3l.—We had been saying it looked as if the month were going out without our seeing a ship, when to-day one appeared just after school. Some of the men were out in a boat fishing, but were signalled to by a fire being lit. They got back quickly, and the boats started off by about two o'clock. It was bitterly cold and the sea rough. Another ship was seen in the afternoon.

Thursday, November 1.—The men returned last night. The ship was a French one bound for Adelaide. They were not able to get any flour, but got ship biscuits, a good quantity of rice, which, however, has weevils in it, and a little coffee. Mrs. Repetto came in this evening with some of the biscuits. I said I could not take them, but she would not hear of "no."

To-day Glass and Tom Rogers have been putting up some small gates, made by the latter, at the two entrances of the pathway leading to the front of the house. They had to build up a part of one entrance with large square stones; wood is scarce so the gates have to be small. With them we feel much more private. Henry has given us some green paint of quite a nice shade for the outside window-frames to match the green gates. The house is beginning to have quite a respectable appearance.

I fear Mrs. Lavarello will be laid up some time with her leg. Charlotte Swain bathes it three times a day. Mrs. Lavarello is a sister of John Glass. She has been very kind to us in constantly sending fish and eggs.

We had a second gale the other day which blighted the potatoes, in fact, quite cut them down. But the men say that with the rain which has fallen since they will come on again. The flowers are already reviving.



Fourteen cattle died last week due to the wet and cold, making the number of deaths three hundred and seventy.

Thursday, November 8.—We were knocked up yesterday morning soon after five by Repetto, who came to tell us that a steamer was in sight and that they were going off to it immediately. In about ten minutes he was here again for the letters. I was in my dressing-gown finishing a letter to A——. Graham was finishing another to his sister and had to run down to the boat with it. He was just in time, but had to wade into the water to hand it in. The steamer had borne down upon the settlement very rapidly. Graham so regretted he hadn't gone when he saw how close it had come in. We felt we had perhaps lost an opportunity of a passage to the Cape we might not get again, but really there was not time to dress and be off. Graham worked off his disappointment by polishing away at the boots and shoes. The men were soon back. The captain said he could only wait half-an-hour, but stayed an hour. He let them have 300 lbs. of flour and some other goods. Repetto was able to get some of the things we asked him to try for, namely, bacon, lemons, a ten-pound tin of butter and some apple-rings. The captain sent his kind regards and sent me a special offering of tea and sugar. We have given the tea to the people as they had none. The steamer was bound for Durban, and the captain, who was here the year before, said he hoped to return in a month, and if he did would bring more flour for the people. The islanders had to pay in cash. A passenger on board presented them with a sovereign to buy food. The captain would not let us pay for anything. Two and a half years later when we arrived home in England we heard of another kind deed of the captain. He had kindly taken charge of the letters to post at Durban, and noticing one bearing our name most kindly sent to the address copies of some photographs which he had that morning taken of the island. The fine view facing this page is one of them. We have been scanning the papers and have obtained a considerable amount of information from them. The steamer hailed from a Cumberland port, and in a Maryport paper was a speech of F——'s at Workington in support of the Liberal candidate. In the same paper we read with regret of the death of Sir Wilfrid Lawson. In another was an account of the fires on the Malvern Hills, and in a third a long article on the "Welcome." [Footnote: A Restaurant and Home for girls, Jewin Street, London.] The sugar was done up in a Birmingham paper from which, however, we did not extract much beyond the attempt on the Russian Premier's life. We feel we have come quite in touch with the world again.

On Monday there is to be another meeting about the trading schooner, but we doubt if much will come of it. It appears from a book Repetto has that the Cape duty on imported animals is rather high, and the men do not seem inclined to come down in their prices. We are seriously contemplating the future as regards food. We have been taking stock and find our stores are getting very low. If we knew definitely a gun-boat was coming and would bring our stores it would be all right, but alas we do not. One cannot get very much from passing ships, so Graham is rather anxious we should go to Cape Town to get a supply of food, if for nothing else. I expect it will end in our going if a chance occurs.

Ellen is busy making a pale blue nun's-veiling blouse for Emma Hagan. You would hardly have thought there would have been such vanities here. The material was sent by some relations at the Cape. Every one tries to have a new garment for Christmas Day, and some of the material which was brought by the Surrey is being kept for this purpose. I have been making a pinafore out of a faded muslin blind for Sophy Rogers who is very short of clothes; after being ironed it looks very nice and has given great pleasure.

Friday, November 9.—The strawberries are just beginning to ripen; they are very small and more like wild ones. I have put zinnia seeds straight into the ground, and shielded with tins they are coming up quite strongly. The stocks have borne the wind better than any other flower. Marvel of Peru is coming up strongly too.

Monday, November l2.—We have had such a warm day, which makes us feel summer is coming.

Yesterday in the midst of morning service one man after another went out, and shortly I saw two little boats on the sea. A whaler had appeared and all the men had gone out to her. We were sorry, for it meant trading on a Sunday, and the people were not now short of food; but one must not be too hard upon them. The whaler is from America and will probably be here for two or three days. The islanders like a whaler better than any other vessel, with the exception of a man-of-war, as it brings material as well as food to trade with, and is glad of fresh meat and potatoes in exchange. I can see the ship so clearly, the sun lighting up its white sails.

The meeting about the schooner took place this afternoon. One or two at the last meeting got rather heated, but all were very quiet to-day. They were not ready, however, to lower their prices and so nothing was done. But, later, Henry Green and Repetto came in to say they had been round, and the men had arranged to sell at a lower price so as to make it possible for a schooner to come.

The rats are beginning to appear again. Last night we had a constant tapping overhead; and this morning to her dismay Ellen found our breakfast had been eaten up by them. The bacon had been placed on the window-sill outside, a dish over it, and a heavy stone on the top. It was not a great loss as it was hardly eatable. The milk-jug was also knocked over and the precious milk spilt. We hope we shall be able to get some extra food from the whaler; and some cocks and hens!

Tuesday, November l3.—Yesterday shortly after we left morning school Mrs. Bob Green rushed in to tell us William had seen a seal on the beach, and that her husband had killed it, but that she had asked him not to skin it till we had seen it. We went to look and saw a small party on the rocks. Two seals had been secured, which was quite a find as a good price can be had for the skins. Seals rarely come in here now, but a dozen or so may be caught at Inaccessible.

We are having a whole holiday to-day owing to the presence of the whaler. The men did not board her yesterday as there was a fog, and when it cleared off and she came in it was too late for them to go out. They went off this morning. Every one is in the greatest excitement. Dressed in their best all went down to the beach to meet Betty and Martha's nephew, Joe Beetham, who was coming on shore from the whaler. He was first brought in here. Graham had met him at Cape Town; since then he has been to America, where his home is. He has brought a large box of things for Betty Cotton from her relatives there, which has quite cheered her up. I think she is the only one on the island who does not care about living here. The islanders have gone off again to the ship to make purchases. Beetham told us the whaler is calling at Mauritius, so Graham has written a line to the Bishop as he might like to hear how we are getting on.

I have started packing, for we must be ready to be off at any instant; even at five o'clock in the morning!

Sunday, November l8.—The men did not get back from the whaler till nearly midnight. The captain seemed a somewhat difficult man to deal with and undoubtedly got the best of the bargaining. His wife was on board, and most kindly sent us a parcel of jams and soap.

Mrs. Sam Swain, senior, has a little girl, born last Friday. Her eldest girl Charlotte is twenty-two. This birth makes the population seventy-eight.

To-day a ship was to be seen in the far distance, it has been hanging about; four of the men have gone out to it.

Graham spoke this morning to the people in church about Sunday trading. He said he saw no harm in going out to a ship on a Sunday, but that they ought not to trade on that day unless they were in real need. Mr. Dodgson was very strong on this point.

We are ready packed so far as we can be when our boxes are our chests-of-drawers. I think Ellen will manage all right while we are away. She likes the people, and if she feels lonely can have one of the children to stay with her. She will teach a little.

We have been thinking a good deal the last day or two of this time last year when we were starting forth. It is a year to-day since we left Southampton.

Tuesday, November 20.—On Monday morning four of the men put out to a ship going east, but she had got too far for them to reach her, a squall driving her further out. It is curious to think that any day we may be on our way to the Cape, but perhaps we shall not get there at all.

A meeting was held last Thursday to consider the quantity of food-stuff a schooner should bring in exchange. It will be a great boon to the people if we can get one to come. We think they would do much better if they would go in more for sheep-breeding and keep fewer cattle. The return would be much quicker; and the shipping of them much easier; and as the weather here is uncertain the loading is an important matter. The sheep are small, but the mutton is good. I do not think this place is suited for cattle; it is too exposed; and the people lay themselves out so little to provide either shelter or food for them. It is quite nice to see a few cattle again grazing on the settlement which has been so destitute of them.

Potatoes are now coming in, but the people do not like to begin eating them too soon.

Wednesday, November 21.—Graham has had an afternoon of it. First there was a Confirmation Class, then another meeting about the schooner. The food-list had to be revised and a list made of the requirements of each family. Arrangements were also made as to our getting off from here. If a steamer is sighted we are both to go at once; if a sailing vessel, which will be much less likely to be going to South Africa, Graham will go off with the men in the first boat. A second boat will await the signal from the ship as to whether or no we can be taken. If we can I shall at once embark in it with the rest of the men. Lots were drawn as to who should go in the first boat. Of course, they like to be in the first as they then have a greater chance of bargains.

In order to prevent delay in going out to a ship there is an excellent system by which each family in turn has to provide the oxen, sheep and geese needed for the public trading. The stuff in exchange for these is divided round equally. The rule is for this public trading to be done first. After it is over any who like can do private trading. They offer for barter all sorts of things, sometimes even the moccasins which they are actually wearing. William got a coat for his pair the other day; on another occasion, boy-like, he got a big pair of boots which he is most proud of, but which are of very little use to him. The height of ambition is to own a pair of boots, though the feet look much tidier in moccasins. His grandmother has just asked me to buy her a pair at the Cape.

Graham has been writing a letter to the Bishop telling of our contemplated visit to the Cape. He will leave a copy of it here on the possible chance of the Bishop arriving when we are away. If he should arrive there are various things of which he may wish to have accurate information.

To do the rats justice let me here record it is now thought that a cat was the culprit on the occasion of the breakfast having disappeared.



CHAPTER XV

Thursday, November 22.—To-day when I was hanging the bird-cage on the wall of the house, Jack somehow squeezed himself through the wires and flew to the flax on the edge of the garden. I caught him, but he slipped through my fingers and flew on to the common and then back into the garden, again alighting on a flax-leaf. He is so tame he allowed me to go up to him, and I caught him once more quite easily.

I have started baking bread in an iron pot after the method of the people.

Thursday, November 29.—Should we go to the Cape it has been arranged for the elder girls to carry on the school. They are rather pleased at the idea. To get their hand in, Graham let them take it yesterday and again to-day. They are capable of taking it for a limited time.

The men and boys have been playing cricket lately, the latter being very keen upon it.

High winds have again somewhat damaged the plants.

Friday, November 30, St. Andrew's Day.—It being the day of Intercession for Missions we had service at five o'clock. Sixty-one people were present, which was good for a week-day. Earlier in the afternoon the sewing-class met. When possible we have it out of doors. We are reading Teddy's Button, which the children quite enjoy. They enter into reading aloud so much more than they did.

Monday, December 3.—Yesterday afternoon Sam Swain's baby was christened and named Rachel Caroline. The baptism was earlier than it would have been because the parents were anxious she should be baptized before we leave for the Cape. The church was full. Graham has asked Repetto to read the service on Sunday while we are away. Ellen will play the hymns.

This evening a vessel was sighted. As the men think it is a whaler they are not going out to it till to-morrow.

Wednesday, December 5.—The vessel was a whaler, and the men went off at breakfast-time next morning and were away all day. For three sheep and eight geese they only got a barrel of flour and some molasses. The captain evidently knew how to drive a bargain; it is rather too bad.

The flower garden is beginning to look quite bright. The sweet peas will soon be in flower, the stocks, too, are showing buds. This week we expect to pick a dish of peas, though the plants look very poor after the blight they had.

There has been a rearrangement of the classes in school and some of the infants have gone up. The elder girls now help a little in the teaching. This morning I had to speak to one of them. She had been taking the infants in reading, and sat with cane in hand administering justice right and left, to which her scholars paid but little heed.

Thursday, December 6.—Yesterday, it being the Advent season, there was a short service after the confirmation class. The people sing "Lo, He comes with clouds descending" to the tune in the Hymnal Companion so heartily. Coming out from the service we found the men gazing intently towards the west. They saw what they said was a whaler; we could just see something. It seems to be coming in, so they will not go out to it till to-morrow. Whalers are no good as regards taking letters, because it may be so long before they make a port.

Friday, December 7.—The whaler came in on Thursday and the men started out to meet her, but finding that she was sending a boat ashore, returned. In the boat was the harpooner, a brother of Sam Swain, senior. The brothers had not met for twenty-four years. He and the boat's crew spent part of the day here. It has been a great thing for the people to have had these three whalers as they have been able to get provisions and material. I must say our friends are a most liberal people. To-day just after dinner Henry Green brought us a bag of flour from All Hands. Graham did not want to take it, and being pressed, offered to pay for it, but Henry would not hear of that, and after some argument said with decision he would not take it back and plumped it down on the sofa. They think now there will be a very good potato crop both in quality and quantity, so we cannot want. The potatoes last year were small owing to the blight.

Saturday, December 8,—The Henry Greens have a child nearly two years old that can neither walk nor talk, and is very fat. They said they thought his back was weak, so I suggested they should bathe it with sea-water twice a day. For some time they did not try this, but last week began it, and after two or three days to their surprise, and to mine when I was told of it, he stood up. The mother is most thankful and only wishes she had begun it before.

Friday, December l4.—There was great excitement yesterday afternoon. Word was brought in that there had been a shipwreck and that two boats were making for the island. We all ran out expecting to see a shipwrecked crew, but no boats were to be seen. We made then for Hottentot Point, and there we could see a ship in the distance. One of out boats had already started, but returned before it had gone far. Later the same enterprising crew, Tom Rogers, Henry Green, and young Sam Swain, set forth again with things for barter. We only knew at the last minute they were going. Ellen and I ran to the top of the cliff with our letter, but the boat had started. We heard afterwards they would have come back had they known we had letters. It is more than a month since we dispatched our last batch. The boat did not return till this morning. It got back to the belt of seaweed before daylight, and making fast to it waited for the dawn. The crew said the captain, a Scotchman, was so kind and let them have anything they wanted. He had his wife and little boy on board; she had been ill. The ship was becalmed, and we hoped the other islanders would go out to her, but they didn't seem inclined to do so. Later in the afternoon we heard to our surprise that they were going. We were so glad because of the letters. The captain sent us a whole heap of magazines and papers. We sent some young lettuces, and I only regretted we had not some flowers to send to his wife. The men did not return till the early hours of the morning. The captain sent us a bottle of lime-juice and would not take any payment for the groceries Repetto asked for. We feel much the invariable kindness of all the captains. The first boat's crew enjoyed themselves immensely on board. The captain played and sang to them. To add to his kindness he sent us a letter containing all the latest news; the first item of which was "King Teddy going strong."

Repetto has just been in to bring some white paint and oil he got for us from the ship. We want it for the house, which certainly has not seen fresh paint for many a year.

Saturday, December 15.—A ship was sighted to-day in the far distance.

Sunday, December 16.—Rebekah is most good in bringing us bunches of pink roses. We have also on the table a bouquet of field-daisies which we were so pleased to find growing here. There are scarcely any wild flowers, but there is a yellow one which much resembles a hollyhock. The people think it very poisonous and never picked it. There is also a small plant which grows abundantly near this house and which they call a sunflower. It has a leaf resembling that of the woodsorrel, and a pink flower the shape of a primrose, but with smaller petals. The boys are very fond of adorning their caps on Sunday with a bunch of pink roses, which are not exactly becoming to their brown complexions.

Monday, December 17.—In heavy rain and a misty sea a ship passed close by.

Thursday, December 20.—To-day Rebekah ran in in great distress: "Her brother Ben had had a fit and had not yet come to, would we go to him?" We went off at once. When we got there he was still unconscious and was lying on the couch. The men were doing all they could for him. There was not much that could be done beyond loosening his collar. After a time he went to sleep. Every one kept flocking in, even the children. I told them he ought to be kept quiet, and gradually they went until Ellen, I, and Bill Green were the only ones left. Presently he awoke and insisted upon getting up, and seeing he was fairly himself we left. Afterwards he had two more fits, one of them on the shore where he had insisted upon going; fortunately Bill Green had followed him there. Two of the men will sit up with him through the night. The people are very kind to one another in sickness.

The keeping of meat is a great difficulty in the summer. We have a supply for the week and it will not keep beyond a day or two. We asked to have it twice a week, but that could not be arranged. We mean to try salting a portion. Our meat larder is the passage as being the most airy place.

Sunday, December 23.—Ben is all right again. It is thought he overdid himself driving sheep. He had no dog with him and did a good deal of shouting and running. He is the man who has deformed arms. Happily he is of a cheerful disposition and is to be heard constantly whistling tunes. The only work he can do is to drive the oxen and sheep.

It is difficult to feel we are so near Christmas since we have so few preparations to make for it. But it is not so with the people. They have been preparing for it for months. We have had constant requests for "blue" for getting up white shirts, petticoats and children's clothes. Preparations are also now going on in prospect of a visit from a man-of-war; houses are being whitewashed, painted, and scrubbed. The Repettos finished theirs some time ago, and the large sitting-room is not allowed to be used, that it may be kept quite clean for the "great event," should it come off. The minds of the inhabitants are centred on the arrival of a warship; it is the great event in their lives, and they cannot yet believe one is not coming.

Christmas Eve.—This has been a busy day, almost as busy at it is at home, there has been so much coming and going. Many have brought offerings of fish and fruit-pies, and Rebekah as a birthday offering a nicely baked cake. I had a blouse ready for her. She stayed to supper. We have been able to give a little tea and sugar all round. I patched up an old coat for William, and as a last thing watered the garden. The nasturtiums, which I hope will run up the wall of the house, are just beginning to bloom. The sitting-room looks quite gay with daisies, grasses and pink roses.



CHAPTER XVI

Christmas Day.—We have had three services, and all have been well attended. To our surprise we found the church decorated. It was done delightfully simple; little bunches of geraniums, roses and green being hung from the beams and the walls. Nearly all were present in the morning, the women having got up early to prepare their dinners. Rebekah said she was up at 4.30. Our dinner was provided for us, the Greens sending stuffed sucking-pig and others crowberry open tarts. Alas! we had no plum-pudding. The rain came down in torrents in the afternoon, and we began service with hardly any one present; but the rain abating the church gradually filled. The singing was not good; I drew my conclusions.

This evening there has been dancing at the Hagans'. Graham has been in and is surprised how well the people dance. The men danced in their shirt-sleeves. Husbands and wives first led off, then danced with other partners. The refreshment was cold water.

Thursday, December 27.—Yesterday directly after breakfast Repetto came to paint the sitting-room. The painting took all day, but the room is quite transformed. The south wall which was green from damp has been whitewashed, and now it is of an olive-green shade and looks quite artistic in contrast with the white paint, but I am afraid that hue will not long remain.

We are having a ten days' holiday. It rains almost every day, and everything is reeking with damp. The people devote themselves to festivities at this season, playing cricket in the morning and dancing in the afternoon and evening. On Boxing Day the first hour of the afternoon was given up to the children, who love dancing. About an hour later the elders began. I dressed in my best array and went to look on. They dance exceedingly well, round and backwards and forwards. I was struck by the polite manners of the men, who go up to the partner they wish to dance with, bow to her and offer their arm. The partner takes it most solemnly, waits about half a minute before she accepts, apparently quite unconscious of his presence, during which time his arm is dropped as he stands mute before her; then she quietly rises and the dance begins. The behaviour of the girls is quiet and natural with a becoming self-reserve. We were home again before six. I believe the dancers left soon after to get some food at home, and then returned and went on till eleven o'clock. We looked in again, and, seeing that the room was very poorly lighted, went back for our lamp. Some of the babies were put to bed in the adjoining room, and some were sleeping peacefully in the arms of the elders in the dancing-room.

Friday, December 28.—We are having a very wet week. I have been painting the bedroom and kitchen window-frames. One of our little birds died suddenly yesterday evening: we think perhaps the paint was too much for it. Happily the other one seems quite cheerful without it. As there is still a smell of paint we take his cage up to the church and hang it in the vestry as the only place of safety we can think of.

New Year's Eve.—In looking back over this past year we feel very thankful for the way in which we have been helped and guided.

_New Year's Day, 1907.—It is the custom here on New Year's Eve for the men to assemble soon after nightfall and visit each house. Several are fantastically dressed and equipped with every available instrument— violin, drum, concertina and accordion. And on this occasion even three old Martinis were brought into requisition and fired at frequent intervals throughout the night. Refreshment is given at each house, so we had a good brew of tea and biscuits ready for distribution at the first sound of the drum. Usually the men enter the house, but as it would have been impossible to get them all into ours, they grouped themselves round the back door. There they first sang and danced to the accompaniment of the violin and accordion, made passes with mock swords and let off guns; then sat on the stones and enjoyed their tea. I was awakened two or three times in the night by the guns. It was daylight before they finished.

No less than four dinners were sent us today, three plates of stuffed mutton and one of sucking-pig. Our thyme and parsley had been much sought after for the stuffing.

We had service this morning at nine o'clock, at which about forty were present. One of the three hymns was the old favourite—

"O God, our help in ages past, Our hope for years to come."

All the afternoon Graham was on the roof of the house mending a hole which was big enough to thrust his hand through. I watched him staggering up the ladder with a heavy roll of turf roped on to his back. When next I saw him he was sprawling on the ridge, his legs only visible. He nailed a piece of tin over the hole, cemented it, and put the turf over it. The cement is made of the ashes of the wood fire mixed with water; it is very durable, and stands heat and wet. Repetto has been painting the church. His wife came in to pay us a visit, a rather rare thing. She goes her own way. The other women live a good deal in each other's houses, but she does not believe in this, thinking there is plenty to be done at home. Her strong character comes out in dealing with her children. She is a very strict disciplinarian. If they do not do what she tells them, they get a good "hammering." She was very pleased with what Graham said in church on Sunday to the children about promptness in obeying.

Wednesday, January 2.—To-day we thought of going to the potato patches, but the men were playing cricket, and sent to ask Graham to join them, which he did. Afterwards he had his first bathe with them. Their bathing-place is close to the waterfall. It is not possible to go out far owing to sharks.

Thursday, January 3.—Graham and I started off this afternoon for the potato patches, as the people were anxious that we should see the plants in flower. It was not quite such an exertion as we expected. This time of year the plants are often covered with caterpillars, which have to be picked off. If the people would burn the old plants and the weeds each season this pest would be greatly diminished. Unfortunately there are no birds to prey upon the insects.