RETURN TO THE CAMP.

On reaching the spot where I had left the horses I found that our native friend Tommy Came-last could discover no water in any of the numerous hollows around the hill and, though the superabundance of this element had caused the chief impediment to our progress through the country at that time, we were obliged to pass a night most uncomfortably from the total want of it at the base of Mount Napier. The spongy-looking rocks were however dry enough to sleep upon, a quality of which the soil in general had been rather deficient, as most of us felt in our muscles. I perceived a remarkable uniformity in the size of the trees, very few of which were dead or fallen. From this circumstance, together with the deficiency of the soil and the sharp edge of the rock generally, some might conclude that the volcano had been in activity at no very remote period.

September 5.

A thick fog hung upon the mountain until half-past 10 A.M. and when I ascended an extremity I could see nothing of the distance. I had however ascertained the nature of the country thus far, this having been the object of my visit and, as I had resolved from what I had seen to pass to the northward at no great distance from this hill, I returned with less reluctance, in hopes that I might have it in my power yet to revisit it during more favourable weather. The day was squally with several very heavy showers, the wind being from the south-west. We saw two natives at a fire when we were returning, and our friend Tommy readily advanced towards them but they immediately set up such loud and incessant cries that I called to him to come away. After a ride of twenty-six miles across swamps and many muddy hollows we reached soon after sunset the camp which I had directed to be moved back to near where the boats lay. I found that these had been drawn out of the swamp and one only brought forward as I wished to this camp and where I found all the carts once more ranged together. The alteration of the boat carriage required a little more time, and I accordingly determined to halt one day that we might also have our horses shod, several shoes having come off on the rough rocks near Mount Napier.

MR. STAPYLTON'S EXCURSION TO THE NORTH-WEST.

September 6.

This day I requested Mr. Stapylton to examine the country in a north-west direction. Some of the swamps crossed by me yesterday had appeared to fall westward and I wished to ascertain the situation and character of the ground dividing them from those discharging their waters eastward or towards the sea, as it was only by keeping on that dividing ground that I could hope to avoid them. Mr. Stapylton proceeded nine miles north-west, crossing many swampy flats, and at length a small rivulet, all falling westward. Beyond the rivulet he got upon some good hills connected with higher land. Our best line of route homewards was in a north-east direction, or at rightangles to the route of Mr. Stapylton.

THE SHAW.

The great swamp already mentioned, being the channel and recipient of the Shaw, was somewhat in my way, and my object now was to trace out the dividing ground as we proceeded, so as to avoid the swamps on both sides. By sunset the single boat was mounted in the shortened carriage, the whole being now so manageable and light that the boat could be lifted out by hand without block and tackle; and when on the carriage she could be drawn with ease wherever the light carts could pass. Thus we got rid of that heavy clog on our progress over soft ground, the boats, by reserving but one; and we left the larger, keel upwards, at the swamp which had occasioned so much delay.

CONDUCT THE CARTS ALONG THE HIGHEST GROUND.

September 7.

Having chosen for a general line of route the bearing most likely to avoid the swamps according to the knowledge I had gained of the country, I proceeded as these and the soft ground permitted, and had the singular and indeed unexpected good fortune to come upon my horse's track from Mount Napier without having even seen the large swamp. The boat-carriage now travelled with the light carts, and we at length reached the first running stream at a short distance below where I had previously crossed it. The bottom was boggy and the water flowed in two channels, the ground between them being very soft. The whole party crossed it, with the exception of two carts which did not arrive, and we encamped on the bank beyond after a journey of about eight miles. Near this stream we found a pretty new species of Dillwynia, with plain yellow flowers, clustered on a long stalk at the end of the branches, and with curiously hairy heath-like leaves. It resembles D. peduncularis but proved, on examination, to be distinct.*

(*Footnote. D. hispida, Lindley manuscripts; ramulis hispidulis, foliis linearibus patulis verrucosis obtusis hispidulis, corymbis longe pedunculatis terminalibus laxis paucifloris, pedunculo glaberrimo, pedicellis calycibusque pubescentibus.)

At this spot we found a very small bower of twigs, only large enough to contain a child: the floor was hollowed out and filled with dry leaves and feathers; and the ground around had been cut smooth, several boughs having been also bent over it so as to be fixed in the ground at both ends. The whole seemed connected with some mystic ceremony of the aborigines, but which the male natives who were with us could not explain. The gins however on being questioned said it was usual to prepare such a bower for the reception of a new-born child. Kangaroos were more numerous in this part of the country than in any other that we had traversed. I counted twenty-three in one flock which passed before me as I stood silently by a tree. Two of the men counted fifty-seven in another flock, and it was not unusual for them to approach our camp as if from curiosity, on which occasions two or three were occasionally caught by our dogs.

September 8.

The remainder of the heavy carts not having come up, I left the two with us to await their arrival that the men might assist the drivers with their teams in crossing this stream. On proceeding then with the light carts only I crossed several soft bad places, and one or two fine small rivulets, encamping at last where we again fell in with my horse's track, on an open space about eight miles from Mount Napier. During the day's journey we traversed some fine open forest hills near the banks of rivulets. We generally found the south-eastern slope of such heights very indistinct, and the ground soft, boggy and covered with banksias. The rock in such places consisted of the same cellular trap so common on this side of the Grampians. Our camp lay between two swamps for no better ground appeared on any side. I hoped however to obtain a more general knowledge of the surrounding country from Mount Napier during clear weather, and thus to discover some way by which we might make our escape to the northward. The carts did not overtake us this day, and I determined when they should arrive to overhaul them and throw away every article of weight not absolutely required for the rest of the journey.

AGAIN ASCEND MURROA AND PARTIALLY CLEAR THE SUMMIT.

September 9.

Once more I set out for Mount Napier, followed by a party of men with axes to clear its summit, at least sufficiently for the purpose of taking angles with the theodolite. The night had been clear and the morning was fine, but as soon as I had ascended the hill rain-clouds gathered in the south-west and obscured the horizon on all sides; I could only see some points at intervals, but I took as many as I could after the men had cleared a station for the theodolite. I perceived two very extensive lakes in the low country between Mount Napier and the south-eastern portion of the Grampian range, which terminated in the hill that I had previously named Mount Abrupt. Between the largest of these waters (called by me Lake Linlithgow) and the mountains there appeared an extensive tract of open grassy land.

MOUNT ROUSE.

To the eastward at the distance of twelve miles I perceived a solitary hill, somewhat resembling Mount Napier, and named it Mount Rouse; but a haze still concealed the more distant country. On reaching the camp where we arrived in the dark, I found that the carts had not even then returned; but as the barometer promised better weather I did not much regret their non-arrival as the delay would afford me another chance of having a clear day on Mount Napier.

September 10.

I again proceeded to the hill and obtained at length a clear and extensive view from it in all directions. In the north the Grampian range, on all sides grand, presented a new and striking outline on this. Far in the west I could recognise in slight breaks on a low horizon some features of the valley of Nangeela (Glenelg).

AUSTRALIAN PYRENEES.

Eastward the summits of a range I thought of naming the Australian Pyrenees were just visible over a woody horizon; and to the south-east were several detached hills and some elevated ridges of forest land, apparently near the coast. One isolated hill resembling a haystack was very remarkable on the seashore. This I named Mount Hotspur being the only elevation near Lady Julia Percy's Isle (not Isles as laid down on the charts for there is but one, now called by whalers the Julian Island). To the southward I could just distinguish the Laurence Islands but a haze upon the coast prevented me from seeing that of Lady Julia Percy. Smoke arose from many parts of the lower country and showed that the inhabitants were very generally scattered over its surface. We could now look on such fires with indifference, so harmless were these natives compared with those on the Darling, and the smoke now ascended in equal abundance from the furthest verge of the horizon. It was impossible to discover the sources of streams or the direction of any ranges visible in the surrounding country; but upon the whole I concluded that the only practicable route for us homewards at that time would be through the forests and by passing as near as possible to the base of Mount Abrupt, the south-eastern extremity of the Grampians. Several forest hills stood above the extensive level country extending from our camp to Mount Abrupt, but I could trace no connection between these hills, and was rather apprehensive that a soft and swampy country intervened.

CRATER OF MOUNT NAPIER.

I had this day leisure to examine the crater on this hill more particularly and found its breadth to be 446 feet; its average depth 80 feet. The cellular rocks and lava stood nearly perpendicular around one portion of it; but there was a gap towards the west-north-west, on which side the crater was open almost to its greatest depth. (See Plate 22.) Several deep tongues of land descended from it to the west and north-west, forming the base of the hill, and had somewhat of the regularity of water-worn features. No marks of decomposition appeared in the fragments projecting from the highest points, however much exposed. On the contrary all the stringy twisted marks of fusion were as sharp and fresh as if the lava had but recently cooled. One species of moss very much resembled the Orchilla, and I thought it not impossible that this valuable weed might be found here as it occurred on similar rocks at Teneriffe. Just as I reached the highest summit this morning a bronze-wing pigeon arose from it; a circumstance rather remarkable considering that this was the only bird of that species seen on this side the mountains besides the one we saw on Pigeon Ponds on the 3rd of August. On returning to the camp I found that the carts had arrived soon after my departure in the morning; but the men had the misfortune to lose two bullocks in crossing the swampy stream where we had been previously encamped. One was suffocated in the mud, and the other having lain down in it could not be made to rise. By observing the stars alpha and beta Centauri I ascertained the magnetic variation to be 3 degrees 2 minutes 45 seconds East, and by the sun's altitude observed this day at Mount Napier I found the latitude of that hill to be 37 degrees 52 minutes 29 seconds South.

September 11.

In order to lighten the carts as much as possible I caused the packsaddles to be placed on the spare bullocks, and various articles carried upon them; thus lightening to less than eight hundredweight each the loads of two of the heavy carts which had narrow wheels and sunk most in the ground. The old cover of the boat carriage was also laid aside, and in its place some tarpaulins which had previously added to the loads were laid across our remaining boat. A heavy jack used to raise cartwheels was also left at this camp, and some iron bars that had been taken from the boat-carriage when it was shortened. Thus lightened we proceeded once more into the fields of mud, taking a northerly direction. For several miles we encountered worse ground than we had ever crossed before yet the carts came over it; but broad swamps still lay before us.

SWAMPS HARDER THAN THE GROUND AROUND THEM.

Despairing at length of being able to avoid them, I impatiently galloped my horse into one and the carts followed, thanks to my impatience for once, for I do not think that I should otherwise have discovered that a swamp so uninviting could possibly have borne my horse, and still less the carts. After this I ventured to pursue a less circuitous route.

AGAIN REACH THE GOOD COUNTRY.

About that time a yellow flower in the grass caught my eye and, remembering that we had seen none of these golden flowers since we left the beautiful valley of the Wannon, I ventured to hope that we were at length approaching the good country at the head of that stream. Such was my anxious wish when I perceived through the trees a glimpse of an open grassy country, and immediately entered a fine clear valley with a lively little stream flowing westward through it and which I named the Grange. This was indeed one of the heads of the Wannon and we had at length reached the good country. The contrast between it and that from which we had emerged was obvious to all; even to the natives who for the first time painted themselves in the evening and danced a spirited corrobory on the occasion. This day Piper had seen two of the native inhabitants and had endeavoured to persuade them to come to me, but all to no purpose until at length, enraged at the unreasonable timidity of one of them, he threw his tomahawk at him and nearly hit him as he edged off; an act of which, as I told him in the strongest terms, I very much disapproved.

September 12.

The course of the little stream being to the northward, I proceeded along its right bank this morning until it turned to the north-west; but we soon after came to another to which the former seemed to be but a tributary. Its course was almost due west, and the valley in which it flowed was deep and boldly escarped. The stream thundered along with considerable rapidity over a rocky bottom consisting of the same sort of trap or ancient lava. I had little doubt that this was the principal head of the Wannon, a river crossed by us on the 11th of August. Meeting next an important branch falling into it from the south-east and being obliged to cross this, we effected the passage even with the carts, although the horses were nearly swimming. We proceeded next along a continuous ridge of fine firm ground covered with excellent grass, and soon after we saw before us a smaller stream flowing under a broad grassy vale and, having crossed it also without difficulty, we encamped in one of the valleys beyond, where this tributary appeared to originate. A finer country could scarcely be imagined: enormous trees of the mimosa or wattle of which the bark is so valuable grew almost everywhere; and several new varieties of Caladenia were found today. The blue, yellow, pink, and brown-coloured were all observed on these flowery plains.

MOUNTS BAINBRIGGE AND PIERREPOINT.

The sublime peaks of the Grampians began to appear above the trees to the northward, and two lower hills of trap-rock arose, one to the south-west the other north-west of our camp. That to the northward I named Mount Bainbrigge, the other on the south Mount Pierrepoint.

September 13.

We broke up our camp early this morning and on reaching the highest ground we discovered a large lake on our left: it was nearly circular, about half a mile in circumference and surrounded by high firm banks from which there was no visible outlet; I named it Lake Nivelle. At a few miles beyond this lake the cheering sight of an open country extending to the horizon first appeared through the trees; and we soon entered on these fine downs where the gently undulating surface was firm under our horses' feet and thickly clothed with excellent grass.

MOUNT STURGEON.

The cartwheels trundled merrily along, so that twelve miles were accomplished soon after midday, and we encamped near the extreme southern point of the Grampians, which I named Mount Sturgeon. The weather was very wet but this troubled us the less as we had not known a day without rain for several months.

ASCEND MOUNT ABRUPT.

September 14.

I was most anxious to ascend Mount Abrupt, the first peak to the northward of Mount Sturgeon, that I might close my survey of these mountains and also reconnoitre the country before us. This morning clouds hung upon the mountains however, and I could scarcely indulge a hope that the weather would be favourable for the purposed survey; nevertheless I bent my steps towards the mountain, having first set the carpenter to work to make an additional width of felloe to the narrow wheels of one of the carts, that it might pass with less difficulty over soft ground. We soon came to a deep stream flowing not FROM but apparently TOWARDS the mountains; its general course being westward. It was so deep that our horses could scarcely ford it without swimming. Reeds grew about and the bottom was soft, although two kinds of rock appeared in its banks. On the right was trap, on the left the ferruginous sandstone of which all these mountains consist. We soon entered on the barren and sandy but firm ground at their base which, with its peculiar trees and shrubs, appeared so different from the grassy plains. The banksia, the casuarina, and the hardy xanthorrhoea reminded us of former toils on the opposite side of these ranges.

VIEW OF THE GRAMPIANS FROM THE SUMMIT.

The weather turned out better than I had expected, and from the summit of Mount Abrupt I beheld a truly sublime scene; the whole of the mountains, quite clear of clouds, the grand outline of the more distant masses blended with the sky, and forming a blue and purple background for the numerous peaks of the range on which I stood, which consisted of sharp cones and perpendicular cliffs foreshortened so as to form one grand feature only of the extensive landscape, though composing a crescent nearly 30 miles in extent: this range being but a branch from the still more lofty masses of Mount William which crowned the whole. Towards the coast there was less haze than usual, for I could distinguish Lady Julia Percy's Isle which I had looked for in vain from Mount Napier, a point twenty-four miles nearer to it. Here I could also trace the course of the stream we had crossed that morning from its sources under the eastern base of the mountains to a group of lower hills twenty-seven miles distant to the westward; which hills, named by me Dundas group, formed a most useful point in my trigonometrical survey.

LAKES.

Several extensive lakes appeared in the lowest parts adjacent; but what interested me most after I had intersected the various summits was the appearance of the country to the eastward, through which we were to find our way home. There I saw a vast extent of open downs and could trace their undulations to where they joined a range of mountains which, judging by their outlines, appeared to be of easy access. Our straightest way homewards passed just under a bluff head about fifty miles distant, and so far I could easily perceive a most favourable line of route by avoiding several large reedy lakes. Between that open country and these lakes on one side and the coast on the other, a low woody ridge extended eastward; and by first gaining that I hoped we should reach the open ground in a direction which should enable us to leave all the lakes on our left.

The largest pieces of water I could see were Lake Linlithgow and its companion in the open grassy plains between the range and Mount Napier, as previously discovered from that hill. Several small and very picturesque lakes, then as smooth as mirrors, adorned the valley immediately to the westward of the hill I was upon. They were fringed with luxuriant shrubs so that it was really painful to me to hurry, as I was then compelled to do, past spots like these, involving in their unexplored recesses so much of novelty amidst the most romantic scenery. The rock consisted of a finely-grained sandstone as in other parts of that mass. The Grampians of the south consist of three ranges covering a surface which extends latitudinally 54 miles and longitudinally 20 miles. The extreme eastern and highest summit is Mount William, in height 4,500 feet above the sea. The northern point is Mount Zero, in latitude 36 degrees 52 minutes 35 seconds South, and the southern is Mount Sturgeon, in latitude 37 degrees 38 minutes 00 seconds. I here again recognised the outline of the most northern and elevated range extending from Mount William to Mount Zero, but it was not so steep on the southern as on the northern side.

VICTORIA RANGE AND THE SERRA.

From this hill two other ranges branch off to the south; the western being marked Victoria range on the map, the eastern, the Serra, from its serrated appearance, the broken outlines they present being highly ornamental to the fine country around. On the northern slopes of the range are some forests of fine timber but in general the higher summits are bare and rocky. The chief source of the Glenelg is between the Victoria range and the most northern, whence it soon sinks into a deep glen or ravine, receiving numberless tributaries from other dells intersecting the adjacent country. A considerable branch of the Glenelg named by the natives the Wannon has its sources in the eastern and southern rivulets from these mountains. The waters falling northward enter the Wimmera, a different river whose estuary has not yet been explored. Returning towards the camp, on approaching the stream, we met with one of the most strikingly beautiful species of the common genus Pultenaea; its narrow heath-like leaves were so closely covered with soft silky hairs as to have quite a silvery appearance and the branches were loaded with the heads of yellow and brown flowers now fully open. It formed a new species of the Proliferous section, allied to Pultenaea stipularis.*

(*Footnote. P. mollis, Lindley manuscripts; ramulis villosis, foliis linearibus v. lineari-lanceolatis obtusis v. acuminatis subtus convexis supra sulcatis sericeo-pilosis capitulis sessilibus longioribus, stipulis ovato-linearibus acutis glabris badiis, calycibus villosis.)

PARTY IMPEDED BY THE MUD AGAIN, AND A BROKEN AXLE.

September 15.

Pursuing an easterly course in order to avoid the Wannon we again found the ground so soft and boggy that it was impossible to proceed; and after advancing with incredible labour (under which one of the poor bullocks fell to rise no more) barely four miles, I ordered the tents to be again set up, but almost in despair for having performed during the previous days several good journeys with perfect freedom from this species of impediment, and having seen no indication of any change in the surface, I had assured the men on descending from the mountains that the country before us was favourable. We were nevertheless compelled to halt again at this part by the breaking of the iron axle of one of the carts, for it was necessary to endeavour to repair it before we could proceed. The highest part of the woody ridge between us and the plains bore according to my map due east, being distant 14 miles.

MR. STAPYLTON EXAMINES THE COUNTRY BEFORE US.

I gave that bearing to Mr. Stapylton who rode forward with Burnett to ascertain how far we were from firmer ground, while I continued in my tent occupied with the map of the mountains. It was dark before Mr. Stapylton returned and brought the pleasing tidings that the soft ground extended only to three or four miles from the camp, and that from beyond that distance to the forest hills he had found the ground tolerably firm.

September 16.

The country which proved so soft was nevertheless stony and trap-rock projected from every higher portion; yet such rocky eminences being unconnected each was surrounded by softer ground. I was resolved to make the very most of them: but an iron axle having been broken in our struggles with the mud, the smith required more time to repair it, and I therefore determined to proceed with but half the equipment drawn by ALL the bullocks, leaving Burnett and the remaining portion of the party and equipment to come on next day by the same means, as soon as the cattle could be sent back.

AT LENGTH GET THROUGH THE SOFT REGION.

Having previously examined the ground and carefully traced out the hardest parts connecting these rocky features, I led the way with the carts and got through the first part of the journey much better than any of us had expected. After passing over four miles of soft boggy ground we came to a small running stream, the surface beyond it rising to a somewhat steep ascent. On reaching that side I found myself on a good firm ridge along which I continued for some time until we reached a swampy lagoon, the banks of which were very firm and good. Leaving this on our right we at length saw the darkly wooded hills of the ridge before mentioned; and having travelled eleven miles we encamped near a small lagoon on a spot where there was excellent grass; but it was still necessary to send back the poor cattle with their drivers that evening to where the other party still remained encamped.

CATTLE QUITE EXHAUSTED.

September 17.

This day the rest of the party came up but the cattle seemed quite exhausted. They had at length become so weak from the continued heavy dragging through mud that it was obvious they could not proceed much further until after they had enjoyed at least some weeks of repose. But our provisions did not admit of this delay as the time had arrived when I ought to have been at Sydney although still so far from it.

DETERMINE TO LEAVE THEM IN A DEPOT TO REFRESH WHILE I PROCEED FORWARD.

After mature deliberation we hit upon a plan which might as I thought enable us to escape. The arrangement proposed was that I should go forward with some of the freshest of the cattle drawing the light carts and boat, with a month's provisions, and taking with me as many men as would enable me to leave with those who should remain provisions for two months. That the cattle should rest at the present camp two weeks and then proceed while I, by travelling so far before them with so light a party, could send back a supply of provisions and also the boat, to meet this second party following in my track on the banks of the Murray. Thus I could reach Sydney some weeks sooner, and also carry on my survey much more conveniently; the cattle, which had been sinking almost daily, would be thus refreshed sufficiently to be able to travel and the chance of the whole party suffering from famine would be much diminished. Such was the outline of the plan which our position and necessities suggested.

September 18.

This day was passed in making preparations for setting out tomorrow with the light party as proposed.

SPECIMENS OF NATURAL HISTORY.

The catalogue of the objects of Natural History collected during the journey included several birds and animals not hitherto mentioned in this Journal. Amongst the most remarkable of these was the pig-footed animal found on June 16. It measured about ten inches in length, had no tail, and the forefeet resembled those of a pig. There was also the rat which climbs trees like the opossum; the flat-tailed rat from the scrubs of the Darling, where it builds an enormous nest of branches and boughs, so interlaced as to be proof against any attacks of the native dog. The unique specimen from the reedy country on the Murray of a very singular animal much resembling the jerboa or desert rat of Persia; also a rat-eared bat from the Lachlan. We had several new birds, but the most admired of our ornithological discoveries was a white-winged superb warbler from the junction of the Darling and the Murray, all the plumage not white being of a bright blue colour; but of this we had obtained only one specimen. I had not many opportunities of figuring the birds from life, so very desirable in ornithological subjects. The eye of the eagle and the rich crest of the cockatoo of the desert could not be preserved in dead specimens, and were too fine to be omitted among the sketches I endeavoured to snatch from nature.* Our herbarium had suffered from the continued wet weather, especially in fording deep rivers; and this was the more to be regretted as it contained many remarkable specimens. The seeds and bulbous roots comprising varieties of Calostemma, Caladenia, and Anguillaria, besides a number of large liliaceous bulbs, were however preserved in a very good state.**

(*Footnote. See Plates 23 and 36.)

(**Footnote. The specimens of natural history were deposited in the Museum at Sydney, according to my letter of instructions. The seeds, amounting to 134 varieties, have been brought home and distributed, with the obliging assistance of my friend Dr. Lindley, amongst the principal gardens in this country. The bulbs, 62 in number, were planted soon after my arrival in England, in the gardens of the Horticultural Society at Chiswick. It was not without regret that I left at Sydney the single specimens of the Chaeropus and Dipus, but I took drawings representing each, of the natural size, and from these the figures in Plates 37 and 38 have been very accurately reduced by Mr. Picken.)

SITUATION OF DEPOT CAMP AT LAKE REPOSE.

The camp in which Mr. Stapylton's party was to remain two weeks was in as favourable a place for refreshing the cattle as could be found. The ground undulated and was thickly clothed with fresh verdure; a grassy swamp also, such as cattle delight in, extended northward into a lake of fresh water which I named Lake Repose. The peaks of the Serra Range and especially Mount Abrupt were landmarks which secured the men from even the possibility of losing their way in looking after the cattle.

Of the natives in our party it was arranged among themselves that Tommy Came-first and The Widow, who most required a rest, having sore feet, should remain with Mr. Stapylton and that Piper and Tommy Came-last should accompany me.

CHAPTER 3.12.

Parting of The Widow and her child. We at length emerge on much firmer ground. River Hopkins. Mount Nicholson. Cockajemmy salt lakes. Natives ill disposed. Singular weapon. Treacherous concealment of a native. Contents of a native's basket and store. A tribe comes forward. Fine country for colonisation. Hollows in the downs. Snakes numerous. Native females. Cattle tracks. Ascend Mount Cole. Enter on a granite country. Many rivulets. Mammeloid hills. Lava, the surface rock. Snakes eaten by the natives. Ascend Mount Byng. Rich grass. Expedition pass. Excursion towards Port Phillip. Discover and cross the river Barnard. Emus numerous and tame. The river Campaspe. Effects of a storm in the woods. Ascend Mount Macedon. Port Phillip dimly seen from it. Return to the camp. Continue our homeward journey. Waterfall of Cobaw. Singular country on the Barnard. Cross the Campaspe. An English razor found. Ascend Mount Campbell. Native beverage. Valley of the Deegay. Natives exchange baskets for axes. They linger about our camp. Effect of fireworks, etc. Arrival at, and passage of, the Goulburn. Fish caught.

PARTING OF THE WIDOW AND HER CHILD.

September 19.

When about to set out I observed that The Widow Turandurey, who was to remain with Mr. Stapylton's party and the carts, was marked with white round the eyes (the natives' fashion of mourning) and that the face of her child Ballandella was whitened also. This poor woman who had cheerfully carried the child on her back when we offered to carry both on the carts, and who was as careful and affectionate as any mother could be, had at length determined to entrust to me the care of this infant. I was gratified with such a proof of the mother's confidence in us, but I should have been less willing to take charge of her child had I not been aware of the wretched state of slavery to which the natives females are doomed. I felt additional interest in this poor child from the circumstance of her having suffered so much by the accident that befel her while with our party, and which had not prevented her from now preferring our mode of living so much that I believe the mother at length despaired of being ever able to initiate her thoroughly in the mysteries of killing and eating snakes, lizards, rats, and similar food. The widow had been long enough with us to be sensible how much more her sex was respected by civilised men than savages, and, as I conceived, it was with such sentiments that she committed her child to my charge, under the immediate care however of Piper's gin.

WE AT LENGTH EMERGE ON MUCH FIRMER GROUND.

For several miles we met with soft ground at the low connecting parts of hills, but we at length gained the woody ridge so likely, as I had hoped, to favour our progress. Its turnings were intricate but, by one or two rivulets falling to my left and then by others falling to the right, I learnt how to keep on the intermediate ground until at length, after a journey of nine miles, we emerged from the woods on a firm open surface and an extensive prospect was seen before us. Leaving the party to encamp I rode to a round forest hill some miles to the eastward and obtained a comprehensive view of the Grampians, and also of the country to the northward which now appeared to be chiefly open; and I had little doubt that we should find it more favourable for travelling upon. Eastward of the forest hill the ground sank into a deep valley which turned round to the south-east after receiving the drainage from some hollows in the open country north of it.

RIVER HOPKINS.

This ravine received also the waters from the woody ridge now south of us, where the numerous deep valleys were irrigated by streams arising in swamps; the whole probably forming the head of some more important stream flowing to the coast and which I here named the river Hopkins. This eminence, which I distinguished as Mount Stavely, consisted apparently of decomposed clay-stone or felspar, having a tendency to divide naturally into regular prisms. A very beautiful and singular-looking shrub appeared on the hills we crossed this day, and also on the open ground where indeed it was most abundant. It was a species of acacia, the leaves adhering edgeways to thorny branches; many of these shrubs were in blossom, the flowers being yellow and as large and round as marbles, and those growing very thickly, they gave to the branches the appearance of garlands or festoons, the effect altogether being extremely graceful and singular. We found also a beautiful new species of acacia looking like a broad-leaved variety of A. armata. The branches were singularly protected by short spiny forks which proved to be the hardened permanent stipules.*

(*Footnote. A. furcifera, Lindley manuscripts; stipulis spinescentibus persistentibus, phyllodiis obliquis ovato-oblongis mucronatis uninerviis hinc venosis glabris, ramis hirsutis, capitulis solitariis foliis brevioribus.)

With this occurred another species with hard stiff scymetar-shaped leaves and a profusion of balls of browner yellow flowers which had been previously observed (on June 22) in a more vigorous condition.* By observations from this hill I made the height of Mount William about 4,500 feet above the sea.

(*Footnote. This was most nearly related to A. hispidula, but the leaves were quite smooth and much smaller. A. acinacea, Lindley manuscripts; glaberrima; ramulis alato-angulatis rigidis, phyllodiis brevibus acinaciformibus mucronatis 1-nerviis et enerviis: margine superiore infra medium glanduloso, capitulis geminis axillaribus, pedunculis phyllodiorum longitudine.)

September 20.

Our wheels now rolled lightly over fine grassy downs and our faces were turned towards distant home. Before us arose a low, thinly-wooded hill, which at first bounded our view towards the north, and afterwards proved to be the feature connecting the low woody ridge near our last camp with the hills still further to the northward. On reaching the summit I perceived that a considerable extent of open country intervened, being watered in the lower parts by several lakes.

MOUNT NICHOLSON. COCKAJEMMY SALT LAKES.

Descending northward along an offset of the same hills which had led us in that direction and which I now named Mount Nicholson, I observed that the lakes occurred at intervals in a valley apparently falling from the westward in which no stream appeared, although it was shut in by well escarped rocky banks. We encamped after a journey of ten miles at a point where another valley from the north joined the above, and I was somewhat surprised to find after encamping that the water in the adjacent lakes was extremely salt. No connection existed by means of any channel between them although they formed together a chain of lagoons in the bed of a deep and well defined valley. On the contrary the soil was particularly solid and firm between them, and the margin of the most eastern of these lakes was separated by a high bank from the bed of another valley where a running stream of pure water flowed over a broad and swampy bed fifteen feet higher than the adjacent valley containing the stagnant salt lakes. The rock enclosing these singular valleys was basalt, and from these peculiarities, considered with reference to the ancient volcano and the dip of a mountain strata to the north-west, it was evident that some upheaving or subsidence had materially altered the levels of the original surface.

I could find no brine-springs in or about these lakes, and as it was evident that a stream had once washed the bed of the ravine now occupied by them, I may leave the solution of the problem to geologists.

(*Footnote. Having submitted specimens of the water from these and other salt lakes of the interior to my friend Professor Faraday, I have been favoured with the following particulars respecting their contents: "All of them are solutions of common salt much surpassing the ocean or even the Mediterranean in the quantity of salt dissolved. Besides the common salt there are present (in comparatively small quantity) portions of sulphates and muriates of lime and magnesia: the waters are neutral and except in strength very much resemble those of the ocean. That labelled Greenhill Lake 24th July had a specific gravity of 1049.4 and three measured ounces gave on evaporation 97 grains of dry salts. That labelled Mitre Lake 24th July had a specific gravity of 1038.6, and three measured ounces of it yielded 77 grains of dry saline matter. The water labelled Cockajemmy Lake Camp 20th September had a specific gravity of 1055.3 and the amount of dry salts from three measured ounces was 113 grains.")

NATIVES ILL DISPOSED.

As we proceeded over the open ground before we reached the spot where we finally encamped several natives appeared at a great distance in a valley eastward of Mount Nicholson, and Piper went towards them supported by Brown whom I sent after him on horseback. They proved to be three or four gins only, but Piper continued to pursue them to the top of a hill, when a number of men armed with spears suddenly started from behind trees and were running furiously towards Piper when Brown rode up. On presenting his pistol they came to a full stop, thereby showing that they had some idea of firearms, although they refused to answer Piper's questions or to remain longer. In the evening, four of them approaching our camp, Piper went forward with Burnett to meet them. They advanced to the tents apparently without fear, and I obtained from them the names of various localities. On being questioned respecting Cadong, they told us that all these waters ran into it, and pointed to the south-east, saying that I should by-and-bye see it. When I found we could obtain no more information I presented the most intelligent of them with a tomahawk, on which they went slowly away, repeatedly turning round towards us and saying something which, according to Piper, had reference to their tribe coming again and dancing a corrobory, a proposal these savage tribes often make and which the traveller who knows them well will think it better to discourage.

SINGULAR WEAPON.

These men carried a singular kind of malga, of a construction different from any Piper had ever seen. The malga is a weapon usually made in the form of Figure 2, but that with which these natives were provided somewhat resembled a pick-axe with one half broken off, and was of the form of Figure 1, being made so as to be thickest at the angle. The blow of such a formidable weapon could not be easily parried from the uncertainty whether it would be aimed with the thick heavy corner or the sharp point. All the weapons of this singular race are peculiar and this one was not the least remarkable.

TREACHEROUS CONCEALMENT OF A NATIVE.

At dusk while Woods was looking after the cattle near the camp he surprised a native concealed behind a small bush, who did not make his escape until Woods was within two yards of him.

CONTENTS OF A NATIVE'S BASKET AND STORE.

How many more had been about we could not ascertain, but next morning we found near the spot one of the bags usually carried by gins and containing the following samples of their daily food: three snakes; three rats; about 2 pounds of small fish, like white bait; crayfish; and a quantity of the small root of the cichoraceous plant tao, usually found growing on the plains with a bright yellow flower. There were also in the bag various bodkins and colouring stones, and two mogos or stone hatchets (Figure 5). It seemed that our civility had as usual inspired these savages with a desire to beat our brains out while asleep, and we were thankful that in effecting their cowardly designs they had been once more unsuccessful.

A TRIBE COMES FORWARD.

September 21.

Early in the morning a tribe of about forty were seen advancing toward our camp preceded by the four men who had been previously there. Having determined that they should not approach us again, I made Piper advance to them and inquire what they wanted last night behind the bush, pointing at the same time to the spot. They returned no answer to this question, but continued to come forward until I ordered a burning bush to be waved at them and, when they came to a stand without answering Piper's question, I ordered a party of our men to charge them, whereupon they all scampered off. We saw them upon our encamping ground after we had proceeded about two miles, but they did not attempt to follow us. Whether they would find a letter which I had buried there for Mr. Stapylton or not, we could only hope to discover after that gentleman's return to the colony. It was understood between us that, where a cross was cut in the turf where my tent had stood, he would find a note under the centre of the cross. This I buried by merely pushing a stick into the earth and dropping into the hole thus made the note twisted up like a cigar. The letter was written chiefly to caution him about these natives. Basalt appeared in the sides of the ravine which contained the salt lakes and in equal abundance and of the same quality in that which enclosed the living stream where it lay in blocks forming small cliffs. Finding at length a favourable place for crossing this stream, we traversed the ravine and resumed our direct course towards the southern extremity of a distant range named Mammala by the natives, the bluff head previously seen from Mount Abrupt (see above).

FINE COUNTRY FOR COLONISATION.

We now travelled over a country quite open, slightly undulating, and well covered with grass. To the westward the noble outline of the Grampians terminated a view extending over vast plains fringed with forests and embellished with lakes. To the northward appeared other more accessible-looking hills, some being slightly wooded, some green and quite clear to their summits, long grassy vales and ridges intervening: while to the eastward the open plain extended as far as the eye could reach. Our way lay between distant ranges which in that direction mingled with the clouds. Thus I had both the low country, which was without timber, and the well wooded hills within reach, and might choose either for our route, according to the state of the ground, weather, etc. Certainly a land more favourable for colonisation could not be found. Flocks might be turned out upon its hills, or the plough at once set to work in the plains. No primeval forests required to be first rooted out, although there was enough of wood for all purposes of utility and as much also for embellishment as even a painter could wish.

HOLLOWS IN THE DOWNS.

One feature peculiar to that country appeared on these open downs: it consisted of hollows which, being usually surrounded by a line of yarra gumtrees or whitebark eucalyptus, seemed at a distance to contain lakes, but instead of water I found only blocks of vesicular trap, consisting apparently of granular felspar, and hornblende rock also appeared in the banks enclosing them. Some of these hollows were of a winding character, as if they were the remains of ancient watercourses; but if ever currents flowed there the surface must have undergone considerable alteration since, for the downs where these hollows appeared were elevated at least 900 feet above the sea and surrounded on all sides by lower ground. There was an appearance of moisture among the rocks in some of these depressions; and whether by digging a few feet permanent wells might be made may be a question worth attention when colonisation extends to that country. We found on other parts of this open ground large blocks composed of irregular concretions of ironstone, covered with a thin coating of compact brown haematite. The purple-ringed Anguillaria dioica, first seen on Pyramid Hill, again appeared here; and in many places the ground was quite yellow with the flowers of the cichoraceous plant tao whose root, small as it is, constitutes the food of the native women and children. The cattle are very fond of the leaves of this plant and seemed to thrive upon it. We also found a new bulbine with a delicate yellow flower being perfectly distinct from both the species described by Brown.*

(*Footnote. This has been planted with the others in the Horticultural Gardens at Chiswick and was the first to flower there, a head having been sent to me on the 8th May last by Dr. Lindley who describes it thus: Bulbine suavis; radice fasciculata, foliis longissimis attenuatis semiteretibus basi canaliculatis glaucis, racemo erecto multifloro, petalis oblongis subundulatis sepalis duplo latioribus, staminibus ascendentibus, filamentis apice stuposis petalinis patentibus sepalinis erectis apice incurvis brevioribus.)

SNAKES NUMEROUS.

The genial warmth of spring had begun to show its influence on these plants and also brought the snakes from their holes, for on this day in particular it was ascertained that twenty-two had been killed by the party. These were all of that species not venomous I believe which the natives eat. We encamped near a small clump of trees for the sake of firewood.

September 22.

This day's journey lay chiefly across open downs with wooded hills occasionally to the left. On the southward these downs extended to the horizon: and several isolated hills at great distances, apparently of trap, presented an outline like the volcanic Mount Napier. All the various small rivulets we traversed in our line of route seemed to flow in that direction. Having crossed three of these we encamped on the right bank of the fourth. The hills on our left were of granite and as different as possible in appearance from the mountains to the westward which were all of red sandstone. In the afternoon there was a thunderstorm but the sky became again perfectly serene in the evening.

September 23.

This morning a thick fog hung over us; but having well reconnoitred the country beyond I knew that I might travel in a straight line over open ground for several miles. When the fog arose some finely wooded hills appeared on our right; but after advancing seven miles on good firm earth we again came upon very soft ground which obliged us to turn and wind and pick our way wherever the surface seemed most likely to bear us.

NATIVE FEMALES.

The fog was succeeded by a fine warm day, and as we proceeded we saw two gins and their children at work separately on a swampy meadow; and, quick as the sight of these natives is, we had travelled long within view before they observed us. They were spread over the field much in the manner in which emus and kangaroos feed on plains, and we observed them digging in the ground for roots. All carried bags and when Piper went towards them they ran with great speed across the vast open plains to the southward.

CATTLE TRACKS.

This day we perceived the fresh track of several bullocks, a very extraordinary circumstance in that situation. The beautiful yellow-wreathed acacia was not to be seen after we quitted the open country. The ground was becoming almost hopelessly soft, when we reached a small run of water from the hills and, by keeping along its bank, we had the good fortune to reach an extremity of the range where the solid granite was as welcome to our feet as a dry beach is to shipwrecked seamen.

ASCEND MOUNT COLE.

We had at length arrived under Mammala, the bluff hill which had been my landmark from the time I left Mr. Stapylton. I found this was the southern extremity of a lofty range which I lost no time in ascending after I had fixed on a spot for the camp. It consisted of huge blocks of granite,* and was crowned with such lofty timber that I could only catch occasional peeps of the surrounding country: nevertheless I obtained, by moving about among the trees with my pocket sextant, almost all the angles I wanted; and I thus connected the survey of the region I was leaving with that I was about to enter. My first view over this eastern country was extensive, and when I at length descended to a projecting rock I found the prospect extremely promising, the land being variegated with open plains and strips of forest, and studded with smooth green hills of the most beautiful forms. In the extreme distance a range much resembling that on which I stood declined at its southern extremity in the same manner as this did, and thus left me a passage precisely in the most direct line of route homewards.

(*Footnote. Consisting of pink felspar, white quartz and silvery mica.)

ENTER ON A GRANITE COUNTRY.

The carts had still however to cross the range at which we had arrived and which, as I perceived here, not only extended southward but also broke into bold ravines on the eastern side, being connected with some noble hills, or rather mountains, all grassy to their summits, thinly wooded and consisting wholly of granite. They resembled very much some hills of the lower Pyrenees in Spain, only that they were more grassy and less acclivitous, and I named this hill Mount Cole. To the southward the sea-haze dimmed the horizon: but I perceived the eastern margin of a large piece of water bearing south-south-east, and which I supposed might be Cadong. It was sheltered on the south-east by elevated ground apparently very distant, but no high range appeared between us and that inlet of the sea. On the contrary the heights extending southward from this summit, being connected with the highest and most southern hills visible from it, seemed to be the only high land or separation of the waters falling north and south. With such a country before us I bade adieu to swamps and returned well pleased to the camp, being guided to it only by the gushing torrent, for I had remained on the hill as long as daylight lasted.

MANY RIVULETS.

September 24.

The morning was rainy and our way having to be traced up the ravines and round the hills was very tortuous for the first three miles. We then reached the dividing part of the range and descended immediately after into valleys of a less intricate character. Having passed over the swampy bed of a rivulet flowing southward, and having also crossed several fine bold ridges with good streams between them, we at length encamped near a round hill which, being clear on the summit, was therefore a favourable station for the theodolite. This hill also consisted of granite and commanded an open and extensive view over the country to the eastward.

September 25.

One bold range of forest land appeared before us and after crossing it we passed over several rivulets falling northward, then over a ridge of trappean conglomerate with embedded quartz pebbles, and descended into a valley of the finest description. Grassy hills clear of timber appeared beyond a stream also flowing northward. These hills consisted of old vesicular lava. We next entered a forest of very large trees of ironbark eucalyptus, and we finally encamped in a grassy valley in the midst of this forest.

September 26.

We first crossed more hills of the trappean conglomerate on which grew ironbark eucalypti and box. The rock consisted of a base of compact felspar with embedded grains of quartz, giving to some parts the character of conglomerate, and there were also embedded crystals of common felspar. By diverging a little to the right we entered upon an open tract of the most favourable aspect, stretching away to the south-west among similar hills until they were lost in the extreme distance. The whole surface was green as an emerald and on our right for some miles ran a fine rivulet between steep grassy banks and over a bed of trap-rock.

MAMMELOID HILLS.

At length this stream was joined by two others coming through similar grassy valleys from the south; and when we approached two lofty smooth round hills, green to their summits, the united streams flowed in an open dell which our carts rolled through without meeting any impediment. I ascended the most western of these hills as it was a point which I had observed from various distant stations, and I enjoyed such a charming view eastward from the summit as can but seldom fall to the lot of the explorers of new countries. The surface presented the forms of pristine beauty clothed in the hues of spring; and the shining verdure of these smooth and symmetrical hills was relieved by the darker hues of the wood with which they were interlaced; which exhibited every variety of tint, from a dark brown in the foreground to a light blue in extreme distance.

LAVA, THE SURFACE ROCK.

The hills consisted entirely of lava and I named them from their peculiar shape the Mammeloid hills, and the station on which I stood Mount Greenock. In travelling through this Eden no road was necessary, nor any ingenuity in conducting wheel-carriages wherever we chose. The beautiful little terrestrial orchidaceous plants Caladenia dilatata and Diuris aurea were already in full bloom; and we also found on the plains this day a most curious little bush resembling a heath in foliage, but with solitary polypetalous flowers resembling those of Sollya.* When we had completed fourteen miles we encamped on the edge of an open plain and near a small rivulet, the opposite bank consisting of grassy forest land.

(*Footnote. This has been ascertained to be a new species of the genus Campylanthera of Hooker, or Pronaya of Baron Hugel, of which two species were found by the latter botanist and the late Mr. Frazer at Swan River. Campylanthera ericoides, Lindley manuscripts; erecta, fruticosa, glabra, foliis oblongo-cuneatis mucronatis margine revolutis, floribus solitariis terminalibus erectis, antheris subrotundis.)

ABORIGINAL IMITATIONS.

September 27.

I was surprised to hear the voice of a Scotchwoman in the camp this morning. The peculiar accent and rapid utterance could not be mistaken as I thought, and I called to inquire who the stranger was, when I ascertained that it was only Tommy Came-last who was imitating a Scotch female who, as I then learnt, was at Portland Bay and had been very kind to Tommy. The imitation was ridiculously true through all the modulations of that peculiar accent although, strange to say, without the pronunciation of a single intelligible word. The talent of the aborigines for imitation seems a peculiar trait in their character. I was informed that The Widow could also amuse the men occasionally by enacting their leader, taking angles, drawing from nature, etc.

While the party went forward over the open plains with Mr. Stapylton I ascended a smooth round hill, distant about a mile to the southward of our camp, from which I could with ease continue my survey by means of hills on all sides, the highest of them being to the southward. I could trace the rivulets flowing northward into one or two principal channels, near several masses of mountain: these channels and ranges being probably connected with those crossed by us on our route from the Murray. In these bare hills and on the open grassy plains, old vesicular lava abounded; small loose elongated fragments lay on the round hills, having a red scorified appearance and being also so cellular as to be nearly as light as pumice. We this day crossed several fine running streams and forests of box and bluegum growing on ridges of trappean conglomerate. At length we entered on a very level and extensive flat, exceedingly green and resembling an English park. It was bounded on the east by a small river flowing to the north-west (probably the Loddon) and abrupt but grassy slopes arose beyond its right bank. After crossing this stream we encamped, having travelled nearly fifteen miles in one straight line bearing 60 1/2 degrees east of north. This tract was rather of a different character from that of the fine country of which we had previously seen so much, and we saw for the first time the Discaria australis, a remarkable green leafless spiny bush and resembling in a most striking manner the Colletias of Chili. Sheltered on every side by woods or higher ground, the spring seemed more advanced there than elsewhere, and our hard wrought cattle well deserved to be the first to browse on that verdant plain. The stream in its course downwards vanished amongst grassy hills to water a country apparently of the most interesting and valuable character.

September 28.

The steep banks beyond the river consisted of clay-slate having under it a conglomerate containing fragments of quartz cemented by compact haematite.

SNAKES EATEN BY THE NATIVES.

The day was hot and we killed several large snakes of the species eaten by the natives. I observed that our guides looked at the colour of the belly when in any doubt about the sort they preferred; these were white-bellied, whereas the belly of a very fierce one with a large head, of which Piper and the others seemed much afraid, was yellow. On cutting this snake open two young quails were found within: one of them not being quite dead. The country we crossed during the early part of the day was at least as fine as that we had left. We passed alternately through strips of forest and over open flats well watered, the streams flowing southward; and at nine miles we crossed a large stream also flowing in that direction: all these being evidently tributaries to that on which we had been encamped. Beyond the greater stream, where we last crossed it, the country presented more of the mountain character, but good strong grass grew among the trees, which consisted of box and lofty bluegum. After making out upwards of eleven miles, we encamped in a valley where water lodged in holes and where we found also abundance of grass. We were fast approaching those summits which had guided me in my route from Mount Cole, then more than fifty miles behind us. Like that mountain these heights also belonged to a lofty range, and like it were beside a very low part of it, through which I hoped to effect a passage. Leaving the party to encamp I proceeded forward in search of the hill I had so long seen before me, and I found that the hills immediately beyond our camp were part of the dividing range and broken into deep ravines on the eastern side. Pursuing the connection between them and the still higher summits on the north-east, I came at length upon an open valley enclosed by hills very lightly wooded. This change was evidently owing to a difference in the rock which was a fine-grained granite, whereas the hills we had recently crossed belonged chiefly to the volcanic class of rocks, with the exception of the range I had traversed that evening in my way from the camp, which consisted of ferruginous sandstone. With the change of rock a difference was also obvious in the shape of the hills, the quantity and quality of the water, and the character of the trees. The hills presented a bold sweeping outline and were no longer broken by sharp-edged strata but crowned with large round masses of rock. Running water was gushing from every hollow in much greater abundance than elsewhere; and lastly the timber, which on the other ranges consisted chiefly of ironbark and stringybark, now presented the shining bark of the bluegum or yarra and the grey hue of the box. The Anthisteria australis, a grass which seems to delight in a granitic soil, also appeared in great abundance, and we also found the aromatic tea, Tasmania aromatica, which represents in New Holland the winter's bark of the southern extremity of South America. The leaves and bark of this tree have a hot biting cinnamon-like taste on which account it is vulgarly called the pepper-tree.

ASCEND MOUNT BYNG.

I could ride with ease to the summit of the friendly hill that I had seen from afar, and found it but thinly wooded so that I could take my angles around the horizon without difficulty. Again reminded by the similar aspect this region presented of the lower Pyrenees and the pass of Orbaicetta, I named the summit Mount Byng.

RICH GRASS.

A country fully as promising as the fine region we had left was embraced in my view from that point. I perceived long patches of open plain interspersed with forest hills and low woody ranges, among which I could trace out a good line of route for another fifty miles homewards. The highest of the mountains lay to the south and evidently belonged to the coast range, if it might be so called; and on that side a lofty mass arose above the rest and promised a view towards the sea, that height being distant from the hill on which I stood about thirty miles. A broad chain of woody hills connected the coast range with Mount Byng, and I could trace the general course of several important streams through the country to the east of it. Northward I saw a little of the interior plains and the points where the various ranges terminated upon them. The sun was setting when I left Mount Byng but I depended on one of our natives, Tommy Came-last, who was then with me, for finding our way to the camp; and who on such occasions could trace my steps backwards with wonderful facility by day or night.

EXPEDITION PASS.

September 29.

The range before us was certainly rather formidable for the passage of carts, but home lay beyond it, while delay and famine were synonymous terms with us at that time. By following up the valley in which we had encamped I found early on this morning an easy way through which the carts might gain the lowest part of the range. Having conducted them to this point without any other inconvenience besides the overturning of one cart (from bad driving) we descended along the hollow of a ravine after making it passable by throwing some rocks into the narrow part near its head. The ravine at length opened, as I had expected, into a grassy valley with a fine rivulet flowing through it, and from this valley we debouched into the still more open granitic country at the foot of Mount Byng. The pass thus auspiciously discovered and opened, over a neck apparently the very lowest of the whole range, I named Expedition-pass, confident that such a line of communication between the southern coast and Sydney must, in the course of time, become a very considerable thoroughfare. The change of soil however introduced us to the old difficulty from which we had been happily relieved for some time, for we came once more upon rotten and boggy ground. We met with this unexpected impediment in an open-looking flat near a rivulet I was about to cross, when I found the surface so extremely soft and yielding that from the extreme resistance a bolt of the boat-carriage gave way, a circumstance which obliged us immediately to encamp although we had travelled only four miles.

EXCURSION TOWARDS PORT PHILLIP.

September 30.

Compelled thus to await the repair of the boat-carriage I determined to make an excursion to the lofty mountain mass which appeared about thirty miles to the southward, in order that I might connect my survey with Port Phillip, which I hoped to see thence. The horses were not found as soon as they were required, but when we at last got upon their backs we were therefore less disposed to spare them.

DISCOVER AND CROSS THE RIVER BARNARD.

We crossed some soft hollows during the first few miles, and then arrived on the banks of a small and deep river with reeds on its borders, and containing many broad and deep reaches. It was full and flowed, but not rapidly, towards the north-east, and it was not until we had continued along the left bank of this stream for a considerable way upwards that we found a rapid where we could cross without swimming. The left bank was of bold acclivity but grassy and clear of timber, being very level on the summit; and I found it consisted of trap-rock of the same vesicular character which I had observed in so many other parts of this southern region. Beyond the river (which I then named the Barnard) we first encountered a hilly country from which we emerged rather unexpectedly; for after crossing a small rivulet flowing in a deep and grassy dell where trap-rock again appeared, and ascending the opposite slope, we found that the summit consisted of an open level country of the finest description. It was covered with the best kind of grass and the immediate object of our ride, the mountain, was now visible beyond these rich plains. Some fine forest-hills arose in various directions to the right and left, and indeed I never saw a more pleasing or promising portion of territory. The rich open ground across which we rode was not without slight undulations; and when we had traversed about four miles of it we came quite unawares to a full and flowing stream, nearly on a level with its grassy banks; the bottom being so sound that we forded it without the least difficulty.

EMUS NUMEROUS AND TAME.

Emus were very numerous on the downs and their curiosity brought them to stare at our horses, apparently unconscious of the presence of the biped on their backs whom both birds and beasts seem instinctively to avoid. In one flock I counted twenty-nine emus, and so near did they come to us that, having no rifle with me, I was tempted to discharge even my pistol at one, although without effect. Kangaroos were equally numerous. Having proceeded three miles beyond the stream we came to another flowing to the westward between some very deep ponds, and it was probably a tributary to the first.

THE RIVER CAMPASPE.

At twenty-two miles from the camp, on descending from some finely undulating open ground, we arrived at a stream flowing westward, which I judged to be also a branch of that we had first crossed. Its bed consisted of granitic rocks and on the left bank I found trap. We had this stream afterwards in sight on our left until, at two miles further, we again crossed it and entered a wood of eucalyptus, being then only five miles distant from the mountain, and we subsequently found that this wood extended to its base.

EFFECTS OF A STORM IN THE WOODS.

The effects of some violent hurricane from the north were visible under every tree, the earth being covered with broken branches, some of which were more than a foot in diameter; the withering leaves remained upon them, and I remarked that no whole trees had been blown down, although almost all had lost their principal limbs and not a few had been reduced to bare poles. The havoc which the storm had made gave an unusual aspect to the whole of the forest land, so universally was it covered with withering branches. Whether this region is subject to frequent visitations of a like nature I could not of course then ascertain; but I perceived that many of the trees had lost some of their top limbs at a much earlier period in a similar manner. Neither had this been but a partial tempest, for to the very base of the mountain the same effects were visible. The trees on its side were of a much grander character than those in the forest, and consisted principally of black-butt and bluegum eucalypti measuring from six to eight feet in diameter. The rock was syenite, so weathered as to resemble sandstone.

ASCEND MOUNT MACEDON.

I ascended without having been obliged to alight from my horse, and I found that the summit was very spacious, being covered towards the south with tree-ferns, and the musk-plant grew in great luxuriance. I saw also many other plants found at the Illawarra, on the eastern coast of the colony of New South Wales. The summit was full of wombat holes and, unlike that side by which I had ascended, it was covered with the dead trunks of enormous trees in all stages of decay.

PORT PHILLIP DIMLY SEEN FROM IT.

I had two important objects in view in ascending this hill; one being to determine its position trigonometrically as a point likely to be seen from the country to which I was going, where it might be useful to me in fixing other points; the other being to obtain a view of Port Phillip, and thus to connect my survey with that harbour. But the tree-fern, musk-plant, brush, and lofty timber together shut us up for a long time from any prospect of the low country to the southward, and it was not until I had nearly exhausted a fine sunny afternoon in wandering round the broad summit that I could distinguish and recognise some of the hills to the westward; and when I at length obtained a glimpse of the country towards the coast the features of the earth could scarcely be distinguished from the sky or sea, although one dark point looked more like a cape than a cloud and seemed to remain steady. With my glass I perceived that water lay inside of that cape and that low plains extended northward from the water. I next discovered a hilly point outside of the cape or towards the sea; and on descending the hill to where the trees grew less thickly I obtained an uninterrupted view of the whole piece of water. As the sun went down the distant horizon became clearer towards the coast and I intersected at length the two capes; also one at the head of the bay and several detached hills. I perceived distinctly the course of the Exe and Arundell rivers and a line of mangrove trees along the low shore. In short I at length recognised Port Phillip and the intervening country around it at a distance afterwards ascertained to be upwards of fifty miles from Indented Head, which proved to be the first cape I had seen; that outside (at A) being Point Nepean on the east side of the entrance to this bay. At that vast distance I could trace no signs of life about this harbour. No stockyards, cattle, nor even smoke, although at the highest northern point of the bay I saw a mass of white objects which might have been either tents or vessels. I perceived a white speck, which I took for breakers or white sand, on the projecting point of the north-eastern shore. (B.) On that day nine years exactly I first beheld the heads of Port Jackson, a rather singular coincidence. Thus the mountain on which I stood became an important point in my survey, and I gave it the name of Mount Macedon, with reference to that of Port Phillip.* It had been long dark before I reached the base of the mountain and picked out a dry bit of turf on which to lie down for the night.

(*Footnote. Geboor is the native name of this hill, as since ascertained by my friend Captain King, and it is a much better one, having fewer letters and being aboriginal.)

October 1.

The morning was cloudy with drizzling rain, a circumstance which prevented me from re-ascending a naked rock on the north-eastern summit to extend my observations over the country we were about to traverse. I found decomposed gneiss at the base of this hill.

RETURN TO THE CAMP.

While returning to the camp we saw great numbers of kangaroos but could not add to our stock of provisions, having neither dogs nor a rifle with us. I found on my arrival at the camp that the boat-carriage having been made once more serviceable, the party was quite ready to move forward in the morning.

October 2.

The day being Sunday and the weather unfavourable, as it rained heavily, the barometer having also fallen more than half an inch, I made it a day of rest for the benefit of our jaded horses, notwithstanding our own short rations. I was also very desirous to complete some work on the map.

CONTINUE OUR HOMEWARD JOURNEY.

October 3.

A clear morning: I buried another letter for Mr. Stapylton, informing him how he might best avoid the mud; and then we proceeded along the highest points of the ground, thus keeping clear of that which was boggy, and we found the surface to improve much in this respect as we receded from the base of the higher range. We crossed some fine valleys, each watered by a running stream; and all the hills consisted of granite. The various rivulets we crossed fell southwards into one we had seen in a valley on our right which continued from the base of the mountain, and this rivulet at length entered a still deeper valley in which there was very little wood, the hills on the opposite side being uncommonly level at the top. In this valley a fine stream ran northward, being undoubtedly the Barnard, or first river crossed by us on our way to Mount Macedon. We succeeded in finding a ford, but although it was deep a greater difficulty to be overcome was the descent of our carts to it, so abrupt and steep-sided was the ravine in which the Barnard flowed.

WATERFALL OF COBAW.

When we had effected at length a descent and a passage across, having also established our camp beyond this stream, I rode up the bank towards a noise of falling water, and thus came to a very fine cascade of upwards of sixty feet. The river indeed fell more than double that height, but in the lower part the water escaped unseen, flowing amongst large blocks of granite. I had visited several waterfalls in Scotland, but this was certainly the most picturesque I had witnessed; although the effect was not so much in the body of water falling, or the loud noise, as in the bold character of the rocks over and amongst which it fell. Their colour and shape were harmonized into a more complete scene than nature usually presents, resembling the finished subject of an artist, foreground and all. The prevailing hues were light red and purple-grey, the rocks being finely interlaced with a small-leaved creeper of the brightest green. A dark-coloured moss, which presents a warm green in the sun, covered the lower masses and relieved and supported the brighter hues, while a brilliant iris shone steadily in the spray, and blended into perfect harmony the lighter hues of the higher rocks and the whiteness of the torrent rushing over them. The banks of this stream were of so bold a character that in all probability other picturesque scenery, perhaps finer than this, may yet be found upon it.

SINGULAR COUNTRY ON THE BARNARD.

The geological character of the adjacent country was sufficiently striking—the left bank consisted of undulating hills and bold rocks of granite; the right of trap-rock in the higher part, and presented a remarkable contrast to the other, from the perfectly level character of the summits of adjacent hills, as if the whole had been once in a fluid state. Some of these table hills were separated by dry grassy vales of excellent soil. Further back the rugged crests of a wooded range of a different formation rendered the level character of this ancient lava or vesicular trap more obvious. The hills behind consisted in the higher parts of a felspathic conglomerate and clay-slate dipping to the eastward.

The country looked fine to the south and also northward, or down the stream. By keeping along a winding valley we ascended without inconvenience between these curiously scarped trap hills.

October 5.

We found the trees on the low range much broken like those near Mount Macedon, and the ground strewed here also with withering boughs, the result apparently of the same storm, the destructive effects of which we had noticed on the trees there.

CROSS THE CAMPASPE.

Beyond the clay-stone range we entered on another open and grassy tract where trap-rock again appeared; and at four miles and a half we descended into a grassy ravine in which we found another river flowing northward; this being apparently the second river crossed in my ride to Mount Macedon and which I now named the Campaspe. It was difficult to find in this stream any fordable place where the banks could be approached by the carts, one side or the other always proving too steep; but at length we succeeded. Strata of clay-slate inclined almost perpendicularly to the horizon projected at parts of the left bank, and over this clay-slate I found trap-rock. Beyond the Campaspe we crossed plains and much open land. At length on descending a little from a sort of table the trap was no longer to be seen, and we entered a wood where sandstone seemed to predominate, the strata dipping to the south-west. Fine grassy slopes extended through this forest, which was also so open that we could see each way for several miles. A rich variety of yellow flowers adorned the verdure among which the Caladenia and Diuris aurea, and also a large white Anguillaria, were very abundant.

AN ENGLISH RAZOR FOUND.

Piper found at an old native encampment a razor, and I had the satisfaction of reading on the blade the words "Old English" in this wild region, still so remote from civilised man's dominion! In the afternoon a remarkable change took place in the weather, for we had rain with an easterly wind, the thermometer being at 68 degrees. We encamped on a chain of deep ponds falling to the northward; reeds grew in them and we endeavoured to catch cod-perch but without success, probably because the natives of the country were too expert fishers to leave any in such holes.

ASCEND MOUNT CAMPBELL.

October 6.

At two miles on we reached the summit of the range near Mount Campbell which had partly bounded my view eastward from Mount Byng. A slight scrub grew on this range but not so thickly as to be impervious to carts; and after crossing it, as well as a succession of lower ridges, a good valley at length appeared on the left, while another which was very wide and green lay before us. At the further side of this and under another range ran a deep mountain stream which was joined a little lower down by one from the valley on the left: thus by following this stream I might have turned the range, but it was not too steep to be crossed, and I required some angles with the surrounding hills and the country before us. We ascended it therefore and comparatively with ease; and from amongst the trees on a hill I saw and intersected more points than I expected to see; even Mount Macedon was visible and, to the eastward, summits which I was almost certain lay beyond the river Goulburn. The descent from this ridge to the eastward was rather steep; but we immediately after entered an open forest in a valley which led very nearly in the direction of my intended route.

NATIVE BEVERAGE.

The adjacent forest consisted of large trees of ironbark, the first of that species of eucalyptus that we had seen for a considerable time. This tree was then in flower, and we found in a large canoe at an old native encampment a considerable quantity of the blossoms, which had not been long cut. Piper explained the purpose for which these flowers had been gathered by informing me that, by steeping them a night in water, the natives make a sweet beverage named bool.

VALLEY OF THE DEEGAY.

October 7.

The whole of this day's journey (fourteen miles) was along the same valley that we had entered yesterday. The deep bed of a stream, then containing a chain of ponds only, pursued a meandering course through it. We saw in this valley a pair of cockatoos with the scarlet and yellow top-knot. (Plate 23.) We had not been long encamped when intelligence was brought me by Piper that a party of natives were following our track, and soon after, Burnett and he having gone out to encourage them to come up, seven, including an old man and two boys, approached and I hastened out to meet them that they might not sit down too close to our camp. They told us the creek watering this long valley was named Deegay.

NATIVES EXCHANGE BASKETS FOR AXES.

Three of them carried very neatly-wrought baskets, and I gave two tomahawks in exchange for two of the baskets, and then making signs that it was time to sleep I returned to my tent, hoping that they would go to their tribe.

THEY LINGER ABOUT OUR CAMP.

On looking out however some time after, I found that two had walked boldly up to our fires, while the others continued to cower over a few embers at the spot where I left them; the evening being very cold and stormy. Piper, who at first seemed much disposed to make friends of these people, had found that his endeavours to conciliate strange natives were as usual in vain, and was now going about sword in hand, while three of the strangers seemed desirous to assuage his anger by telling him a long yarn. The other, who was the old man, was casting a covetous eye on all things around the camp. When I went out they retired to the group, but long after it had become quite dark there they still sat, having scarcely any fire and evidently bent on mischief.

EFFECT OF FIREWORKS, ETC.

I really was not sorry then to find that they still continued, for I had made arrangements for having a little amusement in that case, although their object in lingering there was nothing less than to kill us when asleep. Accordingly at a given signal Burnett suddenly sallied forth wearing a gilt mask and holding in his hand a blue light with which he fired a rocket.* Two men concealed behind the boat-carriage bellowed hideously through speaking trumpets, while all the others shouted and discharged their carabines in the air. Burnett marched solemnly towards the astonished natives who were seen through the gloom but for an instant as they made their escape and disappeared forever; leaving behind them however rough-shaped heavy clubs which they had made there in the dark with the new tomahawks we had given them, and which clubs were doubtless made for the sole purpose of beating out our brains as soon as we fell asleep. Thus their savage thirst for our blood only afforded us some hearty laughing. Such an instance of ingratitude was to me however a subject of painful reflection. The clubs made in the dark, during a very cold night, with the tomahawks I had given them, enabled me to understand better what the intentions of the natives had been in other similar cases; and I was at length convinced that no kindness had the slightest effect in altering the disposition and savage desire of these wild men to kill white strangers on their first coming among them. That Australia can never be explored with safety except by very powerful parties will probably be proved by the treacherous murder of many brave white men.**

(*Footnote. The use of these masks, which I on several occasions displayed with success, was first suggested to me by Sir John Jamison.)

(**Footnote. A distressing instance of this hostility towards the whites on the part of the aborigines has since occurred not far from the very spot where I wrote the above portion of my journal. Our line of route soon became the high road from Sydney to Port Phillip, and it appears by the Sydney newspapers (see Appendix 2.3) that the natives attacked a party of fifteen men proceeding with cattle into these recently explored regions. Although the whites had firearms the blacks killed seven of them, leaving another so severely wounded that his recovery was deemed hopeless. The winding swamp where this sudden attack by aboriginal natives took place is marked Swampy River on the map, and from the assembling of such a number at that point, exactly midway between the Murrumbidgee and Port Phillip, therefore the most remote from settled parts, and especially from the SUDDENNESS of that attack, the reader may imagine the perilous situation of my party on the Darling and the lower part of the Murray where, had any such attack but commenced successfully, it is extremely improbable that any white man would have returned to the settled districts.)

October 8.

The windings of the creek were this day more in our way as we proceeded along the valley and, when in doubt whether it would be best for our purpose to cross this channel or one joining it there from the south, I perceived a small hill at no great distance beyond, upon which I halted the party and ascended, when I saw that several ranges previously observed were at no great distance before us. In these ranges a gap to the south-east seemed to be the bed of the river which I knew we were approaching, and which I therefore concluded we should find in the low intervening country. Westward of the gap or ravine stood a large mass which I thought might be the Mount Disappointment of Mr. Hume.

ARRIVAL AT, AND PASSAGE OF, THE GOULBURN.

On returning to the party we crossed the channel of the Deegay; but at less than a mile further we were obliged to pass again to the right bank at a point where its course tended northward. Soon after recrossing it we met with a broad dry channel or lagoon, with lofty gum trees of the yarra species on its borders, a proof that the river was at hand; and on advancing three-quarters of a mile further we made the bank of the Goulburn or Hovell, a fine river somewhat larger than the Murrumbidgee.* Its banks and bed were firm; the breadth 60 yards; the mean depth as ascertained by soundings being somewhat more there than two fathoms. The velocity was at the rate of 100 yards in three minutes, or one mile and 240 yards per hour; the temperature of the water 54 degrees Fahrenheit. After having ascertained that this river was nowhere fordable at that time I sought an eligible place for swimming the cattle and horses across and immediately launched the boat. All the animals reached the opposite bank in safety; and by the evening every part of our equipment except the boat-carriage was also across.

(*Footnote. This river has been unfortunate in obtaining a variety of names and therefore less objection can be made to my preference of the aboriginal which I ascertained through Piper to be Bayunga. We already have a river Goulburn in New South Wales.)

FISH CAUGHT.

In this river we caught one or two very fine cod-perch, our old friends Gristes peelii.

CHAPTER 3.13.

Continue through a level forest country. Ascend a height near the camp, and obtain a sight of snowy summits to the eastward. Reach a swampy river. A man drowned. Pass through Futter's range. Impeded by a swamp among reeds. Junction of the rivers Ovens and King. Ascend granitic ranges. Lofty mass named Mount Aberdeen. Reach the Murray. The river very difficult of access. A carriage track discovered. Passage of the river. Cattle. Horses. Party returning to meet Mr. Stapylton. A creek terminating in a swamp. Mount Trafalgar. Rugged country still before us. Provisions nearly exhausted. Cattle tracks found. At length reach a valley leading in the desired direction. Cattle seen. Obliged to kill one of our working bullocks. By following the valley downwards, we arrive on the Murrumbidgee. Write my despatch. Piper meets his friends. Native names of rivers.

CONTINUE THROUGH A LEVEL FOREST COUNTRY.

October 9.

Having buried on the left bank another letter of instructions for Mr. Stapylton according to certain marks as previously arranged with him, we mounted our boat on the carriage (which had been brought across early in the morning) and continued our journey. I expected to find a ford in this river but, considering the swollen state in which it then was, I instructed Mr. Stapylton to remain encamped on the left bank until the boat should return from the Murray, as beyond that river we were not likely to have further occasion for it. Our way on leaving the Bayunga was rather intricate, being amongst lagoons left by high floods of the river. Some of them were fine sheets of water, apparently much frequented by ducks and other aquatic birds.

LEVEL FOREST COUNTRY.

At exactly 2 1/2 miles from the river we reached the outer bank or berg, and resumed at length the straight course homewards, for I there found a level forest country open before me, through which we travelled about eight miles in a south-east direction. We then encamped near some waterholes which I found on our right, in the surface of a clay soil and close to a plain extending southward. The wood throughout the forest consisted of the box or goborro species of eucalyptus and we crossed, soon after first entering it, a small plain. At 3 1/2 miles from the last camp on this line, the low alluvial bed of the river with a deep lagoon in it as broad as the river itself appeared close to us on the left; and as I had seen some indications of the Bayunga on the other side also, or to our right, it was obvious that we had just met with this river at one of its most western bends, an object I had in view in following down the Deegay from the westward. The forest country traversed by the party this day was in general grassy and good and, as it was open enough to afford a prospect of about a mile around us, we travelled on in a straight line with unwonted ease and facility.

October 10.

We continued our journey homeward through a country of the same character as that seen yesterday, at least for the first five miles, when we came at length to a chain of deep ponds, the second we had encountered that morning. In the bank of this I found a stratum of alluvium; but beyond it the soil was granitic, and banksia was seen there for the first time after crossing the river. At 7 1/4 miles we met with another chain of large ponds, and at 9 miles a running stream flowing to the north-west. After passing over various other chains of ponds we encamped at the end of 14 1/2 miles near the bank of a running stream in which were also some deep pools and which, from some flowers growing there, were named by the men Violet Ponds.

October 11.

Having turned my course a little more towards the east in order to keep the hills in view, chiefly for the more convenient continuance of the survey, we passed through a country abundantly watered at that time, the party having crossed eight running streams besides chains of ponds in travelling only 14 miles. Towards the end of the day's journey we found ourselves once more on undulating ground, and I at length perceived on my right that particular height which, at a distance of 80 miles back, I had selected as a guiding point in the direction which then appeared the most open part of the horizon, this being also in the best line for reaching the Murrumbidgee below Yass. It was the elevated northern extremity of a range connected with others still more lofty which arose to the south-east. We crossed some undulating ground near its base on which grew trees of stringybark, a species of eucalyptus which had not been previously seen in the forests traversed by us in our way from the river. We next entered a valley of a finer description of land than that of the level forest; and we encamped on the bank of a stream which formed deep reedy ponds, having travelled 14 miles.

As soon as I had marked out the ground for the party I proceeded towards a hill which bore east-south-east from our camp and was distant from it about 5 1/2 miles. On our way an emu ran boldly up, apparently desirous of becoming acquainted with our horses; when close to us it stood still and began quietly to feed like a domestic fowl so that I was at first unwilling to take a shot at the social and friendly bird. The state of our flour however, and the recollection of our one remaining sheep already doomed to die, at length overcame my scruples, and I fired my carabine but missed. The bird ran only to a little distance however, and soon returned at a rapid rate again to feed beside us when, fortunately perhaps for the emu, I had no more time to spare for such sport and we proceeded.

ASCEND A HEIGHT NEAR THE CAMP, AND OBTAIN A SIGHT OF SNOWY SUMMITS TO THE EASTWARD.

The top of the hill was covered thickly with wood, but I saw for the first time for some years snowy pics far in the south-east beyond intermediate mountains also of considerable elevation. There was one low group of heights to the northward, but these were apparently the last, for the dead level of the interior was visible beyond them to the north-west. Further eastward a bold range extended too far towards the north to be turned conveniently by us in our proposed route; but under its high southern extremity (a very remarkable point) its connection with the mountains on the south appeared very low, and thither I determined to proceed. One isolated hill far in the north-western interior had already proved a useful point and was still visible here. I also saw the distant ranges to the eastward beyond the proposed pass just mentioned, and some of these I had no doubt lay beyond the Murray. The hill and range I had ascended consisted of granite, and the country between it and our camp of grassy open forest land.

October 12.

We passed over a country of similar description and well watered throughout the greater portion of this day's journey. In some parts the surface consisted of stiff clay retaining the surface water in holes, and at ten miles we crossed an undulating ridge of quartz rock; two miles beyond which we encamped near a stream running northward.

REACH A SWAMPY RIVER.

October 13.

At 3 1/4 miles we came to a river of very irregular width and which, as I found on further examination, spread into broad lagoons and swamps bordered with reeds. Where we first approached it the bank was high and firm, the water forming a broad reach evidently very deep. But both above and below that point the stream, actually flowing, seemed fordable and we tried it in various places, but the bottom was everywhere soft and swampy.