"Truly the light is sweet, and A pleasant thing it is for the Eyes to behold the sun."

The shadows recede into the depths of the water or the hollows of the hills, the many colours of the trees show themselves; and song-birds begin anew their music, as though a great hawk had been near, and had passed them by scathless.

VALENCIA ISLAND

May truly be termed the "Next parish to America," and should be visited for its noble cliffs, wild headlands, and wonderful jungle of fuschia trees. From Valencia Harbour a ferry, manned for upwards of a century by the O'Neills, brings passengers and mails across to Knightstown, the principal village, and a busy port of industry during the fishing season. Glenleam, the Knight of Kerry's residence—about one mile inland—is surrounded by beautiful gardens, where, besides arbutus and myrtle, many tropical exotics thrive. The fuschias form a thick glade, and the trunks of several of them almost defy the ordinary axe or saw. There are on the island, besides holy wells, a number of soutterains and cairns, that

"Sit upon the ground To tell sad stories of the death of kings."



Irish is freely spoken on the island, and if properly introduced, the visitor may be able to hear many old stories of Finn and his companions, the Gabawn Saior, and other heroes of the peasants' heart. Thick as mists at morn legends hover about the island, and beyond the great Slate quarries may be seen many caves of great interest. There is a tradition on the island that St. Vincent Ferrar landed there. The harbour offers a deep and sheltered anchorage, and was formerly much frequented by smugglers, whose cave is still shown. Paul Jones often put in here, and on one occasion pressed into his service a number of fishermen, whom he took from the neighbouring fishing grounds. None of them returned except one, who had long been imprisoned in France, but he came home "with a stocking full of doubloons," and his children's children are still known as "The Paul Jones's."

At Brayhead,

"Where the broad ocean leans against the land,"

there is a splendid view from nearly eight hundred feet above the sea. The rocks around the coast, encircled with white foam, make a beautiful contrast to the grey and emerald and gold of the sandy coves and green hills.



Dolus and Bolus Heads reach far into the ocean. The Skelligs, "the most western of Christ's fortresses in the ancient world," raise their heads to the south, while northwards the Great Blasket, a mountainous island, and its eleven brothers, with Innisvic Killane, may be seen. On the 10th September, 1588, the Armada ship, Our Lady of the Rosary, of 1,000 tons, was wrecked in the Blasket Sound; among the many who perished was the Prince of Askule, natural son to King Philip of Spain. Around the coast line there have been many wrecks, and not a few are the pathetic stories still told of them on the island.

The last wreck of importance gave another opportunity for the intrepid islanders to show what stern stuff they were made of. Under the captaincy of Mr. Alexander O'Driscoll, the volunteers put off to the wreck, and despite of a sea running high, and the buffeting of a great storm, saved the lives of the crew, and rendered full salvage. While on the island, a visit should be paid to the Anglo-American Cable Company's Station, care being taken beforehand to go through the formality of applying to the Managing Director (26, Old Bond-street, London, E.C.) for an order. Every facility is extended by the courteous local officials.

THE SKELLIGS—ST. MICHAEL'S ROCK.

From Valencia, or from across the channel at Portmagee, where there is a thriving fish-curing industry, the Skelligs can be reached in favourable weather. Standing high above the green billows that encircle them with collars of white foam, they repay every trouble taken to inspect them. The Little Skellig, a fantastic rock, with a great arch like a flying buttress under which for centuries the seas have churned deep, is almost inaccessible. It is a great breeding ground for gannet, with which, during the breeding season, its sides are white as the waves below.



So unused are these magnificent birds to being disturbed by intruders that even when within oar's length of them, they remain passive and unscared. The Great Skellig swings high its cliffs seven hundred feet above the water. Clinging to the ridge of its impressive rocks "like swallows' nests" are the round roofs of the beehive cells which of old formed a citadel of Christianity. To Saint Michael the Archangel, guardian against all the powers of darkness, the isle is dedicated. Its history is of old date, for here Milesius buried the beloved son, Ir, that the thieving waters robbed of his soul. Here "the slanting, full-sailing ships" of Daire, on their way to the great battle of Ventry Harbour, paused in their march along the deep. Here, too, in recording times, was the great hero-king of the Norse, Olaf Iryggveson, baptized.

A little cove, deep in the recess of a cavern, makes a landing stage, only to be attempted at favourable times. An easy path leads halfway round the island; then, mounting a flight of steps, the visitor beholds, spread before him, a green valley, the one patch of richness on the desolate rock. This is Christ's Saddle, from which, with reverent hearts, the "Way of the Cross" may be traversed, ending in the heart of Skellig-Michael. Each of the fourteen Stations have descriptive Gaelic names, such as "The Stone of Pain," where our Saviour falls the first time; "The Rock of the Woman's Piercing Caoine," where His Mother and the Holy Women have met. Lonely and deserted, none should enter these hallowed places but with feelings of reverence.

WATERVILLE.

The morning stillness, broken by the clear blast of the postillion's horn, reminds the visitor lingering lovingly over the shores at Cahirciveen that the coach for the coast tour is ready. With a crack of the whip that would do credit to Will Goldfinch, in the coaching days of old, the driver urges on his team, and the blooded four-in-hand cut their way clear of the town. The tour along the Atlantic between Cahirciveen and Kenmare is nearly fifty miles, and passes through the most diversified country. The eleven miles as far as Waterville is first inland, passing through dreary stretches of moorland, where the small black Kerry cattle manage to thrive, until Ballinskelligs Bay suddenly comes in sight. Bolus Head reaches out its great arm into the sea, to shelter the Bay from the winds. At one side may be seen the little town of Ballinskelligs, with its white Cable Station; and in at the head of the waters, beyond where the Inny river joins the sea, Waterville spreads itself out around the long shore. Here it lies on the little streak of land which protects Lough Currane from the embrace of the ocean. Coming down the hill, out of the town, the delusion is that this great fresh-water lake is but itself a bay, the mouth of which is concealed from view, but not so, for its waters run clear and fresh, and as fishful as the Erne. It is the best free fishing lake in Ireland. Just outside Waterville the Commercial Cable Company (Mackay-Bennett system) have their extensive offices.



The road leads across the Inny, and we enter the little town by the pleasantly-situated Butler Arms Hotel. On going further, fronting the shore line, we pass the Bay View Hotel, and, following a bend in the hill, come suddenly in view of the beautiful Lough Currane, beside which, in the midst of plantations, more like a home than a well-equipped hostelry, which it is, the Southern Hotel is built. Lough Currane is eight miles in circumference, and its shores are fretted with thousands of inlets. Through the windows of the Hotel, a charming view is had of the mountains which encircle the lake. On one side green slopes and pleasantly wooded heights meet the eye, and on the other, old familiar grey-faced mountains, with their heads raised on high among the clouds, shining, changing, and fading in the silver mists. The surface of the lake, calm-faced and deep-welled, here and there lifts up to be admired beautiful islands. Here a saint made his temporal home, and in Church Island is the beehive cell where St. Finian prayed, "in whose orisons were all our sins remembered." The ruins of the sixth century church deserve the attention of the antiquary. Away at the head of Lough Currane is Coppal, where sea trout and small brown trout abound. It, too, has charms all its own, in parts wild and untamed, but again, calm as the race of a sleeping child. Full information as to the flies suitable for the lake, and the places well to troll, may be had from the best known angler in Kerry, Teigue M'Carthy. Like Sir Roger de Coverley's friend, Will Wimble, he can tie a fly "to a miracle," and he is an enthusiastic devotee of the "gentle art." Besides the attractions for fishermen, there are thousands of acres of shooting in the vicinity. There is plenty of opportunity and accommodation for bathing by the bay, and a new Golf Links, laid out under the best professional advice, affords a further source of healthful amusement. Over the hills from Waterville the pre-historic remains of Staigue Fort may be visited. It is the best example of cyclopean stone forts that remains in Ireland, and by authoritative antiquaries is said to be at least 2,000 years old.



EXCURSIONS IN THE VICINITY OF WATERVILLE.

TOUR 1.—The conveyance will leave the Hotel at 11 a.m. for a drive to Derrynane, the historic home of the Liberator, On reaching Coomakista Pass—the highest point of the road—a gradual descent brings the party to Derrynane House, and further on to Derrynane Hotel, close to the remains of the old Abbey. Those who wish to walk can get off the car at Coomakista, and walk one and-a-half miles to Lord Dunraven's cottage, where they can meet the cars. The path winds along the shore of Derrynane Bay, and well repays those who follow it on their way to the Abbey, The party can lunch at Derrynane Hotel, and may return by the path, and meet the car at Coomakista, or drive the whole way back to Waterville. Fare for four persons, 12s.

TOUR 2.—The conveyance will leave the Hotel at 11 a.m., and drive along the northern shore of Lough Currane. Crossing the Coomeragh by the Ivy Bridge, the road leads us as far as Isknamaclery Lake. At this point a unique view is obtained of Isknamaclery Lake and Lough Nabrackderrag on the right, and Loughs Namona and Cloonaghlin on the left. The party can have the option of proceeding on foot to Derriana Lake, or returning and driving along the Coomeragh to Derriana Lodge, and from thence returning to Waterville, or they can cross the Dromad Hills, and return by the river Inny. Fare for four persons, 12s.

TOUR 3.—The conveyance leaves the Hotel at 11 a.m. for Saint Finan's Glen. Before entering the Glen, a fine view is obtained of the Iveragh Mountains, and even the M'Gillicuddy Reeks, and later, the Lemon Rock and the Skelligs. After luncheon in the Glen, the party will return by Bolus Head, visiting the old Abbey of Saint Michael's and Ballinskellias Castle, and (with the permission of the Superintendent) the Atlantic Cable Station. For sea and mountain combined this view cannot be surpassed. Fare for four persons, 16s.

TOUR No. 4.—The conveyance will leave the Hotel at about 11 a.m., for the remarkable fort of Staigue-an-or. The route lies along the southern shore of Lough Currane for about six miles, (passing the Waterfall) as far as Isknagahenny (Coppal) Lake, and good views are obtained of both lakes. At Isknagahenny Lake the party alights, and proceeds on foot for about four miles to the fort. When the highest point of the ascent is reached, a magnificent view is obtained of Kenmare river and the islands off the coast of Beara Peninsula. The descent to the foot is easy. After luncheon the party may return either by West Cove and Derrynane to Waterville, or again ascend the mountain and return by Lake Road. Fare for four persons, 16s.

Shorter excursions can be arranged.

HIRE OF BOATS

Boat and one man, 1s. per hour, 5s. per day. Boat and two men, 2s. per hour, 10s. per day.

In no case will the charge be for less than two hours.

POSTING ARRANGEMENTS.

Hire by Time (Driver's Fee included).

Two-horse carriage. One-horse car.

For the first hour, 7s. 0d. 3s. 6d.

For two hours, 14s. 0d. 7s. 0d.

For each additional hour or fraction of an hour 3s. 6d. 2s. 0d.

Hire for Fixed Distances (Driver's Fee included).

Two-horse One-horse car. carriage.

Waterville to Caragh Lake, — 25s. 0d.

" " Caherciveen, 15s. 0d. 8s. 0d.

" " Valentia, 15s. 0d. 8s. 0d.

" " Portmagee, 18s. 0d. 10s. 0d.

" " Derrynane, 15s. 0d. 8s. 0d.

" " Parknasilla, 30s. 0d. 16s. 0d.

Fifty per cent. additional for return journey.



The coach road from Waterville, following the outskirts of Ballinskelligs Bay, insinuates itself up a dizzy height. Looking backwards, Waterville, "standing with reluctant feet" between the sea and the lake, seems to wonder which is more bewitching. Forging ahead through the mountain gaps, we pass under Coomakiska, 1,500 feet, and Beenarourke, 1,000 feet above the sea level. Clearing the gates of the mountains, we come into the open highlands above Derrynane, watching out from its post over the sea. Truly the home for a chief. Here O'Connell spent his happiest days, within the roar of the Atlantic billows, but far from the turmoil and stress of the great agitation in which his figure looms large as a giant form. Here his hospitable door flew open wide to the passing stranger, and across the hills, with the fleet-footed hound, he enjoyed the most delightful of sports, coursing! Several interesting relics of the Liberator are shown at the house of his descendant, the present proprietor. The ruins of Derrynane Abbey, in the vicinity of O'Connell's home, stand on a small peninsula, at some seasons transformed into an island by the divorcing rush of the high tides. It was a foundation of the monks of St. Finbarr, called Aghermore, such a place as that described in the life of St. Brendan, who, first of the old-world mariners, discovered the great Land of the West.

I grew to manhood by the western wave, Among the mighty mountains on the shore; My bed, the rock within some natural cave, My food, whate'er the sea or seasons bore.

And there I saw the mighty sea expand, Like Time's unmeasured and unfathomed waves; One with its tide-marks on the ridgy strand, The other with its line of weedy graves.

And, as beyond the outstretched waves of Time, The eye of Faith a brighter land may meet; So did I dream of some more sunny clime, Beyond the waste of waters at my feet.

From Cahirdaniel village, the site of a Danish fort, the route extends directly along the Kenmare Fiord, under the foot of Crohan Mountain. The Slieve Misk and Cahar Mountains separate themselves out to win our admiration the better. They recall Lady Dufferin's words, addressed to other sweet mountains, where

"The sunlight sleeping On your green banks is a picture rare, You crowd around me like young girls peeping, And puzzling me to say which is most fair; As though you'd see your own sweet faces Reflected in that smooth and silver sea O! my blessing on those lovely places, Though no one cares how dear they are to me."



On the road beneath Crohan, a mile north from Coad Church is St. Kiernan's Cell, eaten into the face of the sheer rock. In this district formerly the mines were worked and copper smelted. As the road winds along we can see Staigue-an-or, with its cyclopean mounds, lying low and dwarfed on the hillside. By the high mountains, where the coach-horn sounds sweet and awakens echoes, the road comes down into the lowlands, and from the bridge is seen beautiful landscape, with Sneem spread out in the foreground. Under lovely beechen boughs, and through a glade of oak and first we are ushered into

PARKNASILLA,

An ideal residence, hidden from the summer sun by a variegated veil of the rocky garden foliage; sheltered from the winter's blast by the Askeve Mountains and the kind shores that button themselves around its inlet sea, of which Mr. A. P. Graves has written:

"Ocean before, the summer sky above Who could pourtray the mountains' purple smiles— And all the opal hues of earth and heaven, Foam fringing forests, heather-tufted Isles; The roseate dawn—purpureal pomps of even— And young Atlantic's petulant, shifting wiles? Who could do aught but mar the true expression Where all is change? Then why a record shape Of scenes whose nature glories in succession From wood to wave—from wave to distant cape— Like the young poet's dream, fair beyond all possession."



Here in the demesne lands of a Bishop's Old Palace, the Southern Hotel new palace has been built. The green turf of its lawn extends down to the water's edge. It is a land of arbutus and myrtle, of glades laden with the pink and white blossoms of oleander and rhododendron, and thick with bells of fuschias, the fair daffodils of Shakespeare and Herrick, that fade away too soon:

"Daffodils that come Before the swallow dares, and take The winds of March with beauty."

Derreen, away in the lap of the landscape, found favour of Froude, and at Kilmackilloge he found material for his novel. The beautiful Garinish Island is like a little paradise, lost in a land where all is lovely. Around the shores, and in the sandy caves, the beautiful seals cluster, and at times are so tame as to answer the shrill whistle of the boatman, and show their lovely forms on the water's surface near at hand. We live in sceptical times, when

"The powder, the beauty, and the majesty, That had their haunts in dale, or piney mountain, Or forests by slow stream, or pebbly spring, Or chasms and watery depths—all these have vanished. They live no longer in the faith of reason."

But still here, along the old-world shores, where daylight dies, the superstitions and traditions of the pagan past still linger among them, and there is none more interesting than that which teaches the fishermen to regard these beautiful-eyed, plaintive-voiced creatures with tenderness. The souls of the dead, drowned at sea, who die out of friendship with God, go into the bodies of the seals, and there through the ages await the Trump of the Archangel to call them before the Great White Throne.



"Parknasilla is situated on the northern shore of Kenmare Bay, a bay rich in beauty, and with singularly-indented coast lines. Its well-sheltered position amidst a number of islets, thickly wooded down to the water's edge, has endowed it with unique advantages. This protective area gives to Parknasilla claims of a special character, and prevents the access to it of all winds except those coming from the warmer points, viz., south and south-west; these winds, before reaching the southern coast of Ireland, having travelled over the Gulf Stream, and being thus subjected to its moderating and balmy influence. We all recognise what elevation of the land will do for any place, particularly if it shelters that place from winds blowing from the cold quarters. Thus, mountain protection is of supreme importance in the choice of a health resort, more especially in the winter and spring seasons of the year. In this regard Parknasilla is exceptionally favoured, a mountainous range closely guarding and protecting it from the northerly and easterly winds. The combination of mountain, wood, and water gives a special charm to this locality; and a convincing evidence of the mildness of the winter and early spring here is the forward character of the vegetation, the early budding of the trees, shrubs, and flowers—all bearing testimony to the mildness of the climate. Temperature rapidly tells its tale on the vegetable world, and there can be no more reassuring proof of the equable and balmy character of the climate of a district than the early growth of flowering shrubs, plants, and table produce. The position of this favoured and sheltered sea inlet upon the isothermal map shows it to have a mean annual temperature of 52 degrees, being similar in this regard to its neighbour, Glengarriff, and registering a higher mean annual temperature than Ventnor or Torquay. The mildness of the climate in the earlier spring months is of such a character that exercise can be freely partaken of in the open air daily, without risk of chill; and this to the invalid is of paramount importance. No record has, as yet, been regularly taken of the daily sunshine, or of the rainfall, but so far as could be ascertained, the rainfall does not appear to be excessive. To sufferers from chronic or recurrent affections of the respiratory organs, Parknasilla, in the winter and early spring months, would appear to be indicated as a most desirable place of residence. I have had the advantage of two recent visits to this district, and feel convinced that, when it becomes better known, Parknasilla will prove a veritable haven of health and rest to the chronic invalid and the convalescent, as well as a delightful retreat to the busy man of the 'world's mart,' who may need a temporary repose from the worries and cares of daily life. Parknasilla is about a two hours' drive or thereabouts from Kenmare, the drive being one of exceptional beauty and interest."—Dublin Journal of Medical Science, May, 1896.



DRIVING AND BOATING EXCURSIONS IN THE VICINITY OF PARKNASILLA.

No. 1—Car to Sneem, and by Killarney Road to Letterfinish; thence to Tahilla Chapel, and return by Dunquilla (ancient fort), or direct. 8s.

No. 2.—Car to Sneem and Letterfinish; on to Geragh Bridge, and by Blackwater Valley and Coast Road to Tahilla, returning by Dunquilla, or direct, 12s.

No. 3.—Car to Sneem and Coomyauna Bridge, pony (cost 5s., to top and back not included), or walk to summit of Beoun Mountain, view of Glencar and M'Gillicuddy Reeks, Cloon, Lakes, and Coomlumina Glen with Dingle Bay in the distance. Return same way. 12s.

No. 4.—Car to Sneem and Glorah, pony (cost 5s., to top and back not included), or walk to summit of Finnavagough, view of Foylenagearough, Cloonaghlin, Derriana, and Waterville Lakes. Return same way. 12s.

No. 5.—Car to Staigue Fort and back. This ancient round stone Fort, in a wonderful state of preservation, is well worth a visit. 16s.

No. 6.—Car to Blackwater Bridge and Waterfall; along the Blackwater Valley to Lough Erin, view of Ballaghbeama Pass, returning by Geragh Bridge, Sneem Road, and Tahilla. 16s.

No. 7.—By boat to Reenkilla, car to Glanmore Lake, and by Furniss to Killmakillogue, skirting Derreen, Lord Lansdowne's demesne (fare 5s., not included). Return by boat (four-oared). 20s.

No. 8.—By boat to Ormonde's Island; car along shore of Clonea Lake to Inchiquin, Glen and Cascade, thence by Derreen or coast road. (Fare, 10s., not included.) Return by boat (four-oared). 20s.

No. 9.—By boat to the Caves, and into Ardgroom Harbour; car by Eyeries to Castletown-Bere, Dunboy Castle, and back (fare 10s., not included). Return by boat (four-oared). 20s.

Excursions by Steam Launch will also be organised to the Caves, Ardgroom, Derrynane, and other places of interest on the Kenmare River.



The demesne around the hotel comprises one hundred acres of beautiful land, where tropical flora flourish all the year round. The meadows trim, with daisies pied, there are on every mossy bank the dewy lips of

"Violets dim, But sweeter than the lids of Juno's eyes, Or Cytherea's breath."

The road to Kenmare lies high above the sea. Ardgroom is hiding under the Caha mountains, with Glenbeg Lake behind, in the little valley. Beneath Derrenamackan the lashing seas wage perpetual warfare against the rocks. By the Eskdhu, or Blackwater Bridge, amid the dense foliage of the trees, a waterfall bleats from the thicket with plaintive murmur. Then it breaks itself free, and amid rocks, and briars, and tangled underwood, rushes wildly towards the sea. Between us and the ocean is Dromore Castle, the residence of one of the heads of a sept of the O'Mahony clan. In the demesne are the ruins of Cappacross, a stronghold of the O'Sullivans. Dunkerron Castle, on the shore, gives its name to the islands in the bay.



County Clare.



Clare County possesses the finest cliff scenery in Ireland. From Limerick or Galway the county may be explored. On the journey by rail from Limerick, beyond Long Pavement, we come on a fine view of Cratloe woods. An ancient saint referred to Cratloe as "a pleasant seclusion from sin"; but in later times it became a haunt of rapparees, and its thick foliage provided what Spenser would call "a meet house for rebels." In later times Freney, a noted highwayman, whose exploits delighted the Irish peasant, here found a refuge. Bunratty Castle was a strong place in feudal times. Here Rinuccini, the Papal Legate to Ireland in 1641, sojourned, and his papers contain many references to the picturesqueness of the surrounding country, and its herds of wild deer. Between Newmarket and Ardsollus is Dromoland, the seat of Lord Inchiquin, and the birthplace of William Smith O'Brien, the aristocratic leader of the revolutionists of 1848. Crossing the Ardsollus river, we are near Quin Abbey, an old Franciscan Priory, and Clare Castle, which took its name from an old watch tower in the river Fergus. Ennis is the chief town in the County Clare. It is more quaint than important. It is pleasantly placed on the river Fergus, and is a clean town, doing a thriving business with the country. The principal monument in the town is to Daniel O'Connell, who was returned for Clare in the famous election of 1828. The ashes of the controversy that raged around O'Connell in his lifetime are long since dead, and if one wanted proof of this it is in the recent biography of the great agitator which appears in the "Heroes of the Nation" series. In that, the famous Clare election is treated with true historic discrimination by the writer, who compares the bravery of the Clare peasants at Ennis to the gallant Covenanters standing up against Claverhouse's Dragoons at Bothwell Bridge. From Ennis, by car and light railway, Ennistymon, Lehinch, Lisdoonvarna, and Ballyvaughan may be reached. At Ennistymon there is a splendid cascade on the Innagh river. Lisdoonvarna possesses the best known Spa in Ireland. It is come-at-able from Milltown-Malbay or Ennistymon. Its friends have called it "The Cheltenham of Ireland." It cannot be pretended that the immediate scenery is attractive, but there are many interesting drives in the vicinity. The hotels and lodgings are good. The sixth century Church of Saint Cronan, pleasantly placed in an ash-grove, will give those of an antiquarian taste opportunity of beguiling their time during a stay at the beneficial chalybeate and sulphurous springs. The drives from Lisdoonvarna may include tours to Ballyvaughan and the Cliffs of Moher. The drive by Black Head, the north-eastern promontory of county Clare, gives one a fine view as far north as the Arran; then we approach Ballyvaughan, in Galway Bay, an out-of-the-way old world village. Its approach is by a spiral hill, over two miles in length, called "The Corkscrew-road." The sides of the stony hills are interspersed with the most delicate maiden-hair fern, growing wild. There are two small but neat hotels in Ballyvaughan. From this little town Galway might be visited by steamer and the Arran Isles by hooker. Kilkee is admittedly the best bathing-place in these islands. It is dashed into with the full force of the Atlantic, but with the countless nooks fitted into the rocky coast-line, there are numbers of sandy strands suitable for bathing. Here, situated in the very outpost of the West of Ireland, it is as up-to-date and as go-a-head as some of its more fashionable rivals, while in natural advantages it excels them all. It is easy of access by land and sea. The town is protected by a long reef of rock, called "Duggerna." The cliff scenery is very beautiful. The spots to visit are The Puffing Hole, Saint Senanus' Holy Well, Bishop's Island, with its beehive cells and Green Rock. A tour to Loophead will bring one in sight of a long line of cliff scenery. Lehinch and Liscanor Bay promise to become the best patronised golf links in Ireland. Right in front of the little town is a splendid strand, and local enterprise has been auxiliary to nature in making the spot attractive. Spanish Point also possesses splendid strands, where sea-bathing may be enjoyed with safety. Two miles away is Milltown-Malbay. The town is business-like, and the coast-line in the vicinity is associated with weird tales of wreckers; there some of the unfortunate Spaniards came to grief in 1588. The Cliffs of Moher may be visited from Milltown, Lehinch, or Lisdoonvarna. Going up the road from Lehinch to Liscanor we pass a Holy Well dedicated to Saint Brigid. The only cliff scenery in the British Isles to compare with that of Moher is at the Orkney islands. They make a magnificent embroidery into the red sandstone along the coast-line for four miles, rising in heights varying from 440 to 700 feet. From their height on a clear day the distant Isles of Arran may be seen, and the whole surroundings make as gorgeous a seascape as is to be found anywhere in the world. An observer will readily recognise that the quaint craft which the fishermen still use in the vicinity of Moher, as indeed elsewhere in Clare, is the ancient coracle. Kilrush, on the Lower Shannon, is chiefly of interest to the antiquary. It can be reached from Limerick, by the Shannon, as pointed out already, and from Kilkee by Rail. By a ferry from a slip at the foot of the little town, the holy island, Scattery, the shrine of Saint Senanus, may be reached. The Round Tower is in good preservation, and the remains of the Seven Churches can still be traced. Saint Senanus' bed is still pointed out. No peasant woman who wishes to be a mother will ever enter this hallowed spot. The legend of Saint Senanus is similar to that of Saint Kevin. He was haunted by the love of a woman from whom he flew. Thomas Moore in verse tells us the hard-heartedness of both the anchorites:—

"Oh! haste, and leave this sacred isle, Unholy bark, e'er morning smile, For on thy deck, though dark it be, A female form I see. And I have sworn this sainted sod Shall ne'er by woman's feet be trod."

"Oh! Father, send not hence my bark, Through wintry winds and billows dark; I come with humble heart to share Thy morn and evening-prayer; Nor mine the feet, oh! holy Saint, The brightness of thy sod to taint."

The lady's prayer Senanus spurned, The wind blew fresh, the bark returned; But legends hint that had the maid Till morning's light delay'd, And given the Saint one rosy smile, She ne'er had left his lonely isle.



Galway and District.

Leaving the County Clare by rail we cross into Galway, between Crusheen and Tubber. Beyond the marshy country on the right, away in the woodlands, nestles Loughcootra Castle. The great lake from which the place takes its name covers eight square miles. The hundreds of islets here scattered about its surface are the homes of thousands of herons. The country people have a belief that this bird is a messenger of good omen, and never interfere with it or its young. There is a beautiful legend in Irish of a heron which visited St. Columba, at Iona, a traveller from his own country. This story is recorded in the interesting life of the saint written in the seventh century by Adamnan, one of his successors; a beautiful version in English tells of the saint rising at dawn of day after a dream of the coming of the bird:—

"He looked out over the dreary moor, Over the hill so bleak and hoar— 'A bird from the land I revisit no more Has come to visit me, Dear Innisfail from thy fragrant shore— Land of my own I shall see no more— Across the driving sea.'

Then he left his prayer, and 'Brother,' he said, 'Take to thee corn, and oil, and bread, A bird has alit—half frozen, half dead— Upon our southern strand. Then warm him and feed him with gentle care, And chafe his wing's and anoint him there, He comes from my own loved land— From my own loved land,' and the old Saint wept; But the Monk arose, while the others slept, And warmed the heron, and fed and kept The bird for a day and night. So Columb feeling, though far away, For Ireland's soil—like the Gael to-day— One favour in heaven's sight."

The magnificent residence was designed and erected similarly to East Comer Castle (by Nash, who remodelled Windsor) for Lord Gort, the head of the Vereker family, at a cost of L70,000. The black hand of the famine of 1847 fed on this property, like many another in Ireland, and it passed from its owners under the Encumbered Estates Act. Cove Park, the residence of Lady Gregory, is just outside Gort. Her Ladyship has found a way to the hearts of the country people by her sympathy with the Irish language movement. Her volume, "Mr. Gregory's Letter Box," is a valuable contribution to the history of Ireland in the first three decades of the nineteenth century. Sir William Gregory's Memoirs it is that contain the circumstantial version of the Cabinet scandal, in which the name of the Hon. Mrs. Norton (George Meredith's "Diana of the Crossways") figures. The story of the leakage of the State secret is as follows:—

"When Sir Robert Peel determined to repeal the Corn Laws he consulted a portion of his Cabinet. They were Sidney Herbert, Lord Lincoln, Sir Jas. Graham, and Lord Aberdeen, all of whom determined that the repeal of the Corn Laws should be kept a profound secret until the whole of the Cabinet had assembled. That same evening Sidney Herbert dined tete-a-tete with Mrs. Norton, the well-known object of his attachment, and with whom he was infatuated. Before dinner was over she wormed out of him the secret of the Cabinet. After dinner she pretended to go to see a sick friend for a short time, and returned in half-an-hour. In the meantime she had taken a cab and driven down to the Times Office, and saw Barnes, the Editor, and told him the Government were going to repeal the Corn Laws. Barnes said to her, "If you have no proof I shall not detain you, but if you have you shall have L500." She gave him the chapter and verse, and returned to poor Sidney Herbert with the cheque in her pocket. The next day the announcement was made in the Times which astounded all England. This was on the 5th December, 1845. The other papers disbelieved it. Lord Derby and the Duke of Richmond left the Government."

In the heart of a stony country beset with high fences and rough copple stones, stands the little town of Gort, The military stationed there now add to its importance. Kilmacduagh, at the base of the Burren Hills, contains a church (seventh century) of St. Colman, the Blue-eyed, and a Round Tower leaning out of the perpendicular. In pre-historic times all this country side at the foot of Burren, from Gort to Loughrea, and for miles apart, is said to have been the favourite hunting-ground of Queen Maev. Kinvara, away on an inlet of Galway Bay, is a fishing village, and the locality is celebrated for the "succulent oysters"—which in the season are to be found in every restaurant in Dublin. The antiquary will find his way easily to Corcomroe Abbey—the church is still in a good state of preservation. Donald More O'Brien, King of Limerick, is commonly believed to have built it in the twelfth century. It subsequently became subject to Furness, in Lancashire. Donough O'Brien, King of Thomond—killed in battle in 1267—is buried here; his monument discloses the rude magnificence of his attire. The effigy is looked upon by scientists as an example of the attire of an Irish King of the thirteenth century.

Athenry, as its name, the "Ford of the Kings," signifies, and its ruins testify, was of old a place of renown. The tower is entered by a small gate tower; before it stands the quaint market cross, on one side is the Virgin and Child, on the other the figure of the Crucified. The base is relieved with deer and wolf hounds, and at the corner an angel holds a scroll, the legend of which is defaced. The Franciscan Priory (1464), despite the attempt to modernise it, has still two thirteenth century windows, and the south transept has the remains of a very beautiful window. The Dominican Priory is said to have been erected at the personal request of St. Dominick in 1241. So late as 1644 it was the seat of a university acknowledged by Rome.

Tuam is now of little importance. It is to ecclesiastics, however, of interest, as the centre of an Archiepiscopal See. The statue to John MacHale is worth seeing. He was well known in the first part of the nineteenth century as "John of Tuam." An uncompromising Ultramontane, he translated Homer into Gaelic, and O'Connell in one of his speeches called this great patriot bishop "The Lion of the Fold of Judah." The ancient cross in the square is a good specimen of the Irish stone crosses.

Galway still possesses the evidence of its former greatness. To-day it is simply an old world city in the midst of a sporting county. Of old it was a strong-walled town, ever on the alert against alarm and foray, with its harbour crowded with the warships of Spain and the merchantmen of many a foreign port. There is a famous map of the city, dating back to 1651, when the then Lord Deputy Clanricarde pledged the town to the Duke of Lorraine. It shows a walled-in town with fourteen gates, each guarded by a watch-tower.



In the twelfth century, when De Burgo conquered O'Connor, he made Galway the citadel of his western possessions. During the next century there gathered into the prosperous town from far and near adventurers and merchants—the Blakes and the Bodkins, the Lynches, the Morrises, the Martins, the Joyces, &c.; founders of the great families, whose names have since been inseparable from Galway. In after times the clanship and attachment of these families to their members and each other, drew from the Scripture-loving Puritans the scornful appellation—"The Tribes of Galway"; but the expression was afterwards adopted by the Galway men as an honourable mark of distinction between themselves and their cruel oppressors. In old times the merchant princes of the place were renowned for their hospitality, which they carried to such an excess that the civil authorities interfered with it, in 1518, with a law to the effect that

"No man of this town shall oste or receive into their houses at Christmas, Easter, nor no feaste elles, any of the Burkes, MacWilliams, the Kellies, nor no cepte elles without license of the Mayor and Councill, on payn to forfeit L5; that neither O nor Mac shall strutte nor swaggere through the street of Gallway."

Indeed, the O's and Mac's seem to have made their history by more than enjoying the hospitality of their neighbours, and what was not given them willingly they at times took by the strength of their right hands. Over the western gate of the city was the following meaningful inscription:—

"From the fury of the O'Flaherties, good Lord, deliver us."

The trade with Spain was for centuries a source of great prosperity to the town, and those familiar with the characteristics of Spanish architecture will see much in Galway to remind them of it. The sympathy of the townspeople seems always to have been with the leaders of forlorn hopes in Irish history. It was almost destroyed by Ludlow for its fidelity to the King in 1652, and having been rebuilt, it again fell before the siege trains of the victorious Ginckle in 1691 after the battle of Aughrim, the Culloden of Ireland. With the fall of the Jacobite standard in that battle, the hopes of the western Irish declined. The surviving sons of most of the old families sought service abroad in the armies of France, Spain, and Austria. There are many love songs of the time in Irish, which have been translated, such as—

AFTER AUGHRIM.

Do you remember long-ago, Kathaleen! When your lover whispered low— "Shall I stay or shall I go, Kathaleen?" And you answered proudly, "Go, And join King James and strike a blow For the Green."

Mavrone! your hair is white as snow, Kathaleen, Your heart is sad and full of woe— Do you repent you bade him go, Kathaleen? But still you answer proudly, "No, Far better die with Sarsfield so, Than live a slave without a blow For the Green."

Many of the old houses remain. Far and away the most interesting is Lynch's mansion at the corner of Abbey Gate-street. On the walls are the arms of the Lynches and their crest, a lynx, which it is said was given them for the watchfulness with which they guarded a besieged Austrian town in the middle ages. Behind Saint Nicholas' Church, in Market-street, is the Lynch stone, inscribed with a skull and crossbones, and "Vanity of vanity, and all is but vanity," above which is an inscription:—

"This memorial of the stern and unbending justice of the Chief Magistrate of this city, James Lynch Fitzstephen, elected Mayor, A.D. 1493, who condemned and executed his own guilty son, Walter, on this spot, has been restored to its ancient site A.D. 1854, with the approval of the Town Commissioners, by their Chairman, Very Rev. Peter Daly, P.P., and Vicar of Saint Nicholas."

The stern and unbending justice relates to the Mayor's execution of his own son. The story tells how a young Spaniard, who was the Mayor's guest, crossed in love the Mayor's son. One night, heated with wine and inflamed with jealousy, young Lynch drove a stiletto through the heart of his rival. His father tried and condemned him for the crime. His mother roused the sympathy of the townspeople to such an extent that none could be found to act as executioner, but the old Mayor was even-handed with them, and hanged the unfortunate culprit with his own hands.

No visitor to Galway will fail to find out the Claddagh. It is the most conservative community in Ireland, and with them neither old times are changed nor old manners gone. The colony inhabit a number of low-thatched cottages apart from the town. They live mostly by fishing. The Claddagh women dress in blue cloaks and red petticoats, and their rings, which visitors procure as keepsakes, represent two hands holding a harp. Hardman, in his "Rare History of Galway," wrote of them as follows:—

"The colony, from time immemorial, has been ruled by one of their own body, periodically elected, who is dignified with the title of Mayor, regulates the community according to their own peculiar laws and customs, and settles all their fishery disputes. His decisions are so decisive and so much respected that the parties are seldom known to carry their differences before a legal tribunal or to trouble the civil magistrates."



Salthill, to the west of the town, is a well-sheltered bathing-place, with pleasant villas for visitors. The Queen's College will repay a visit. At the bridge in the town excellent salmon fishing is to be had. When the fish are making up the river for Corrib or Lough Mask the sight is very interesting. From Galway the old Franciscan Monastery at Claregalway may be driven to, or an excursion made down the bay to the Arran Islands. They are twenty-seven miles from the harbour. There are three principal islands, Innismore, Innismaan, and Innisheen, and several small isles. Two centuries ago they were described as paved over with stones, with wide openings between them for cattle to break their legs, and the modern description by Hon. Emily Lawless does not far differ.

The dress of the people is mostly white, homespun flannel "bawneens," and sandals of cowhide, fastened across the instep, which they call "pampooties."



Connemara and Sligo.

The Great Southern and Western Railway line runs northward from Tuam to Sligo. To the westward lies Iar Connaught and Connemara, the capital of which is Clifden, standing high above Ardhear Bay. If we go direct from Galway to Clifden we pass Oughterard and the ruins of Aughnanure Castle, formerly the stronghold of "The furious O'Flahertys." From its Tower we can get a view of Lough Corrib, with its famous Caislean-no-Circe, long the lair of Grace O'Malley, of whom the western peasant may say she

"Fought, and sailed, and ruled, And loved, and made our world."

Oughterard nowadays is given over to fishermen instead of the fighting followers of the western chieftains. The Connaught Glendalough differs much from its Leinster namesake, but the Maamturk Mountains and the Glen of Innagh have a panorama of scenes difficult, indeed, to rival. Clifden is an excellent centre from which to make excursions. Wherever we look the Twelve Bens of Bumabeola spring up like uplifted lances. The coast-line is beautiful, and from the promontories we see distant Slyne Head and the Isles of the West. Mountain climbers will find on the summit of Urrisbeg a curious plateau. The district is a good one for lake and sea fishing.



The coast drive to Leenane should not be missed. Leenane itself is on the outer flank of "Joyce's County," as a fiord of Killery Bay. Letterfrack is but ten miles from Clifden. The mountain scenery in the immediate vicinity of the town is delightful. Within easy reach is Little Killery Bay and the beautiful valley, The Pass of Kylemore, near which is Kylemore Castle, where Mitchell Henry started his model farm in 1864. The mountain pass of Lehinch cuts through the hills to the sea. A journey by Ballinakill brings the adventuresome to Renvyle Bay, where there is a comfortable hotel. Leenane is the best starting ground for an expedition up the Twelve Bens; from it also a tour may be made to Cong.

About eight miles beyond Leenane is Errig Bridge, from which the best view of Croagh Patrick Mountain may be had. But an ascent of the mountain is best made from Murrisk Abbey, six miles outside Westport. From the mountain side the expansive country from island-set Clew Bay to Nephin and Slievemore, in Achill, spreads out to best advantage. The famous coach road from Clifden cuts into Westport from the south. The Quay and Mall and the Marquis of Sligo's demesne are the "sights" of the town. It is a convenient centre from which to visit Achill Island. The drive through Newport, Mallaranny, and Achill Sound to Dingort, although across an exposed country, on a fine day will more than repay the tourist.

The views of Clew Bay are like the changing scenes in a panorama. Newport will clamour for the attention of fishermen; and lavish on them opportunities for sport. The Glens on the way to Mallaranny will tempt excursions, and beyond Burrishoole Bridge the antiquary will deviate to Carrighooley Castle, and lend his ears to the peasant tales of Grace O'Malley and her husband, the MacWilliam.



Mallaranny is a home of rest. It hides beside a promontory in the bay, and its splendid strand faces the south. The direct way to Achill is through Dingort. For scenery and sport few places in the west surpass the island. The mountain cliff scenery is superb. The seals breed in the cliffs, and the rocks are the homes of countless seabirds. At Meenawn, the eagles on the island mostly nest. The great horned wild goats offer good sport to the marksman, and the deep-sea fisher will delight in the shoals and "schools" of herring and mackerel which in the seasons strike the coast and into the bays of the island. Did Izaac Walton but live in our days he would be sure to find his way to Ballina, because of the Moy River and the salmon which "most do congregate there." Loughs Conn and Cullin are open free fishing, and on the preserves the terms are most liberal. Foxford, beside Lough Conn, will gladden the hearts of those interested in philanthropic schemes for the benefit of "the very poor" in rural Ireland. Within a few years, enterprises well directed, has transformed the district from being a "most distressful country" into a thriving, self-respecting, self-advancing locality. Killala, six miles from Ballina, is of interest as the point at which General Humbert and 1,100 Frenchmen invaded Ireland in 1798. Sligo is the most thriving town in the west of Ireland. Its public buildings, its commerce, and its picturesque position, are one and all notable. Sligo Abbey, a structure of the thirteenth century, is a very remarkable pile of ruins. Lough Gill contains most beautiful sylvan and sea pictures. There is sea, lake, and river fishing galore, and mostly free. The point from which to see Lough Gill in all its glory is Dooine Rock. Excursions may be made to Hazelwood, Glencar, and even to Bundoran, the most deservedly patronised watering-place in the north-west of Ireland. Those who desire an exquisite souvenir of a visit to Ireland, should not fail to procure a piece of Belleek ware, remarkable for its elegance and delicacy; and if in the vicinity of Belleek village, permission may be obtained to visit the interesting pottery.



For information as to Sport to be had in the Sligo District, see end of this volume, where particulars are given as to Golf, Fishing, Shooting, Cycling, &c.



Summer and Winter Resorts

The health resorts of Ireland are so many, their attractions and advantages so varied, that one wonders why it is that they are comparatively so little patronised. The explanation is not far to seek. Hitherto they have been but little known, one cause and another have helped to keep Ireland a terra incognita. The "faculty," however, has been for long acquainted with the benefits which the Green Isle possesses, and many an insular invalid, consumed with the desire to visit some continental resort, has taken the common sense advice of the family physician and learned to appreciate the advantages Providence has bestowed nearer home.

Winter quarters we have a good store, and beauty spots abound on the coast, where summer delights can be enjoyed galore, to use an Irish expression.

Most of the places referred to beneath have already been described in the foregoing pages, but it will, perhaps, be convenient for those in search of particular information as to health resorts and seaside watering places, to have them collected in one chapter and listed alphabetically—

ARDMORE.—Fishing village, five miles from Youghal, growing as a watering place. Beautifully situated on southern shore of Bay. Splendid strand, good opportunities for bathing. Deep-sea fishing, mackerel, and herring "schools," plenty of lobsters. Cliff scenery in vicinity; the bay is frequented by seals. Gaelic-speaking peasantry. Round tower and ancient church. Good cottage accommodation.

ARRAN ISLANDS.—Three in number—Innismore, Innismaan, Innisheer—standing out in the Atlantic, a sort of long harbour bar to Galway Bay. Scenery cannot pretend to be attractive. Bathing and deep-sea fishing. Splendid views of cliff scenery on Clare Coast. Steam trip up Galway Bay delightful. An enjoyable inn at Kilronan.

BALLYBUNION.—Good watering place, splendid strand, fine cliff scenery, sheer on Atlantic Ocean, plenty bathing accommodation. Castle Hotel is comfortable, lodgings clean and cheap. Eight miles from Listowel.

BLARNEY.—Hydro, at St. Ann's Hill, on the side of pleasant uplands overlooking old castle. Nicely wooded, with lake and trout stream. Cottage homes, within grounds which are between six and seven hundred acres in extent. Sandy soil and pine forests. The residences well sheltered. Six miles from City Cork and Muskerry tram; two miles G. S. W. Railway. Terms and particulars of treatment, &c., to be had from the medical officer, Dr. Altdorfer.

CAHIRCIVEEN.—An inlet of Valencia Harbour, well sheltered, mild winters. Coach drives through mountain scenery or along coast to Waterville. Valencia three miles.

CASTLECONNELL.—Fishing village on the Shannon, outside Limerick, six miles. Possesses chalybeate spring. Beautiful river scenery, and splendid fishing. The Shannon Hotel can be recommended.

DUNMORE EAST.—Pleasant, quiet, and select seaside resort, eleven miles from Waterford, at the mouth of the River Suir. Good strand, well sheltered. Splendid sea fishing and exceptionally good harbour for yachting or boating. Plenty of villa and lodging-accommodation, demand for same on increase in season. Good bathing; good hotel.

GLENGARRIFF.—Coach from Kenmare or Bantry. Beautiful scenery. Inlet of Bantry Bay. Well wooded, mild climate, winter resort beyond compare. Gulf Stream strikes coast in vicinity. Excellent hotel accommodation. Good cottage accommodation. Plenty coaching and boating facilities in summer; splendid sea bathing. Arbutus grows wild.

KENMARE.—One of the starting-points for the Grand Atlantic Coast Drive. Thriving pleasant town at the head of the fiord. Macgillicuddy Reeks stand out behind the town. Mountain climbers will make ascent best from point beyond Sohaleen Bridge. Both the Cork and Kerry sides of the bay are very beautiful and worthy of investigation. The Southern Hotels Company has one of its branches outside the railway station. The Lansdowne Arms is an old coaching inn, famed for its mountain mutton and good claret.

KILKEE.—The best bathing-resort in the three kingdoms. Splendid facilities. The cliff scenery and coast walks attractive. Good villa and cottage accommodation. Modern hotels on esplanade.

KILLARNEY, see page 136.

LEHINCH.—Bracing air from Atlantic. Good bathing. Bold coast line. New hotel, fine golf links. Promises to be the most up-to-date watering place in Clare.

LEENANE.—The pleasant place on Killary Harbour. It has the Mweelrea mountains behind it and the sea in front. The bay is remarkable for sea fishing, while the salmon and trout angler will have his heart's desire in Errif Lake. The Leenane Hotel stands close to the shore, and the Aasleagh Hotel, high above the Errif, is surrounded by demesne lands. The mountain scenery is remarkable.

LISDOONVARNA.—Inland watering place. An old favourite health resort now more easy of access than hitherto. The spas are sulphurous and chalybeate. The hotel accommodation is unusually good, but still insufficient for the summer and early autumn visitors. The driving tours in the locality take in the most delightful scenery in county Clare.

LUCAN.—A very old spa. Beautiful sylvan retreat within nine miles of Dublin. Scenery on upper Liffey and drives in vicinity through charming country. The Hydro, equipped with every modern advantage.

PARKNASILLA.—THE PREMIER WINTER RESORT OF IRELAND. Hotel well sheltered on fiord of Kenmare Bay. The grounds around beautifully wooded and planted with luxuriant shrubs. Absolutely free from winter cold. This country side the pride of Kerry. The seascape and islands in vicinity delightful. Admirable arrangements for boating, fishing, and coaching.

POULAPHOUCA.—Approached from Harristown on the Tullow branch. The upper Liffey winds here through a beautiful glen with a splendid fall beyond Poulaphouca bridge. Splendid facilities for shooting and fishing are afforded in the surrounding mountain country. Convenient centre for pedestrian and cycle tours. Hotel immediately above the Fall, also good hotel at Blessington: and four miles higher up in the Wicklow Highlands, at Lacken, excellent hotel.

QUEENSTOWN.—"The Paradise of Pensioners." The port of Cork Harbour. Centre of American tourist traffic. Well sheltered. Long the winter quarters of invalids. Every facility for visitors. Within easy reach of Cork city. Excellent train service. In summer steamer trips on beautiful river. Several good hotels; splendid villa accommodation. A bright cheerful town, full of life and change of colour. A well known specialist (Dr. A. Thomson), in his "Physician's Note Book," puts the query—"Where should a consumptive patient pass the winter months if he can't go abroad?" and answers himself, "There is no place within Great Britain and Ireland so well adapted for the residence of a consumptive patient as Queenstown."

RECESS.—Midway between Clifden and Kylemore, on the edge of the western Glendalough, guarded behind by mountain scenery, secluded, but all the more attractive to those weary of the busy haunts of men. The lake and mountain scenery exceptionally wild. It is an ideal resort for sportsmen.

TRAMORE.—One of the most attractive watering places in Ireland. Its name in English signifies "the great strand," and it is no misnomer. The bathing facilities are the best on southern coast, and are not, indeed, surpassed on any other coast. Splendid new hotel up-to-date in every respect, and other hotels to suit all classes, with fine race-course, plenty of lodgings and houses to be had in the season. Twenty minutes run from Waterford by train. Military bands in the summer. Exceptionally good place for families. Tramore is a delightful seaside resort, built on a gradual incline, with a southerly aspect, on the shores of the broad Atlantic. The air is almost proverbial for its restorative qualities, not only in popular but also in scientific opinion. It is beyond all doubt that Tramore has as many hours of sunshine, less rainfall, and more even temperature than any other seaside town in the United Kingdom.

VALENCIA.—The next parish to America, the home of Atlantic cable stations. The island remarkable for the number of tropical plants which grow in the open. Climate unusually mild. Boating, sailing, and bathing in the season. Deep-sea fishing with islanders. Good hotel, comfortable, clean, and cheap. Other accommodation difficult to obtain.

WATERFORD, see page 112.

WATERVILLE.—Principal posting place on Atlantic coast tour. Splendid watering place, beautifully situated on strip of land dividing mountain lake from sea. Fine strand. Sea and lake fishing. The station for Mackey Bennet cable system. Three good hotels, M'Elligott's and Galvin's, on the coast, and the Southern Hotel on the shore of the picturesque Lough Currane, within a stone's throw of the sea. Very good cottage accommodation in summer season.



Natural History of the South and West of Ireland.

By R. LLOYD PRAEGER, B.A., B.E., &c.

The Natural History of the South and West of Ireland possesses a special and peculiar interest in the occurrence in this region of a number of plants and animals which are rare in or absent from Great Britain and the adjoining portions of Europe. Let us first consider the general geographical features of this area, and the geological characters which have produced those features. Ireland has often been likened to a saucer, consisting as it does of a great central plain, fringed with mountain groups disposed around the coast. The plain has a slightly undulating floor of Carboniferous limestone; the groups of hills are mostly formed of older rocks, which break through the level limestones. On our journey from Dublin to Athlone, or from Dublin to Mallow, we pass across typical portions of the central plain; and the brown ridges of Slieve Bloom and Devil's Bit, and the greener heights of the Galtees, furnish good examples of the masses of older rocks that rise out of the plain.

In considering the features and natural history of this wide area, it will be convenient to divide it into districts, which we shall treat of in the following order:—

1. Wicklow and Wexford.

2. Waterford and East Cork.

3. West Cork and Kerry.

4. Clare and East Galway.

5. West Galway and West Mayo.

6. Sligo.

7. The Central Plain and River Shannon.

1. WICKLOW AND WEXFORD.—Here we are on the East Coast, looking across St. George's Channel towards the shores of Wales. The lovely county of Wicklow is the most mountainous in Ireland, having 180 square miles over 1,000 feet elevation, and 25 square miles over 2,000. Wexford is lower and more fertile. The coasts of both counties are in great measure flat and sandy, and are the home of many rare plants. A number of species of light soils and of gravelly shores have here their Irish headquarters, such as the Round-headed Trefoil (Trifolium glomeratum) the Sea-Stock (Matthiola sinuata), the rare Sea-Cudweed (Diotis candidissima), and the Wild Asparagus (A. officinalis). The Murrough, a great gravel beach backed by salt marshes which extends from Greystones to Wicklow, and the marshes of the River Slaney, may be specially recommended to the naturalist. These coasts are the only Irish locality for the handsome ground-beetle, Nebria complanata, a typical South European animal. The Wicklow mountains, which reach in Lugnaquilla a height of 3,039 feet, are the main portion of the Leinster highlands, formed by a great mass of granite which stretches from Dublin into county Kilkenny. Considering their elevation this range is singularly devoid of alpine plants and animals, but many interesting species inhabit the lower grounds, famous on account of the beauty of the scenery.

Among the Lepidoptera several rare species are characteristic of the district, such as the "Bath White" butterfly (Pontia daplidice), and the "Four-spotted Footman" moth (OEnistis quadra).

2. WATERFORD AND EAST CORK.—This is a picturesque district, formed largely of slates and sandstones of Old Red Sandstone age. The coast is mostly of very bold character, with towering cliff ranges. The country is generally undulating and fertile, with occasional mountain ranges, of which the Comeraghs are rendered especially interesting and picturesque by the deep "cooms," embosoming tarns, which give them their name. The Comeraghs and the lovely valley of the Blackwater furnish particularly attractive ground for the naturalist. The flora and fauna of this area are intermediate in character between that of the district last considered and of the surpassingly interesting country that lies to the westward, and which will next claim attention. Thus, the coasts yield several of the rare plants mentioned in the last paragraph—for instance, Diotis and Asparagus grow at Tramore; while at the same time we first meet in this area with some of the most famous plants of the south-west—London Pride (Saxifraga umbrosa), Kidney-leaved Saxifrage (S. Geum), Great Butterwort (Pinguicula grandiflora), Irish Spurge (Euphorbia hiberna). Two rare butterflies of this district are Dianthaecia caesia and D. luteago var. Barrettii; and the largest of the British leaf-beetles, Timarcha laevigata, has been taken near Waterford, and at Tipperary.



3. WEST CORK AND KERRY.—This is one of the most beautiful and interesting districts in the British Isles, and indeed in Europe. The ancient Devonian rocks which prevail have been folded into a grand series of simple arches and troughs, the axes running north-east and south-west. The arches form noble mountain ranges, which on the coast project far into the Atlantic in a series of grand promontories, and inland form picturesque highlands, of which Macgillicuddy's Reeks, which rise to 3,404, constitute the highest land in Ireland. The valleys in their lower portions are occupied by the sea, in the form of long island-studded fiords; their upper parts are often filled with Carboniferous limestone, and offer a pleasant contrast of tillage and green pasture between the gaunt brown mountain-ribs. Here we stand on the most western outpost of the European Continent, with the Atlantic on three sides. The effect of the encompassing ocean, and the western winds which constantly blow in from it, is to produce here and along the whole western coast the most uniform annual temperature to be found in Europe. Frosts are almost unknown, and great heat and drought likewise. These peculiar climatic conditions have resulted in the acquisition and preservation of a fauna and flora which spread here from more southern latitudes at some time now long gone by, and which in these favoured spots still remain to remind us of a period when a state of things prevailed very different from what obtains at present. For naturalists tell us that there can be no doubt that these southern plants and animals migrated to Ireland over land-surfaces now destroyed, having spread along the old-time coast line which long ago extended from the Pyrenean highlands to Ireland; and as a relic of their march, we find some of the species still surviving in the south-west of England, while all of them are absent from the rest of England and from the adjoining parts of continental Europe.

An enumeration of a few of the most remarkable of the plants, with a definition of their range, will make clearer this peculiar feature of the natural history of the West of Ireland:—



London Pride (Saxifraga umbrosa). In Ireland along the west and south coasts. Absent from England. On the Continent it is found only in the south.

Kidney-leaved Saxifrage (S. Geum). In Ireland in the south-west. Unknown in England. On the Continent confined to the Pyrenean district

Strawberry-tree (Arbutus unedo). In Ireland in the south-west. Unknown in England. On the Continent it grows all along the Mediterranean.

Great Butter wort (Pinguicula grandiflora). In Ireland in the south-west. Unknown in England. On the Continent it grows on the Alps and in the south-west.

Irish Spurge (Euphorbia hiberna). In Ireland along the south and west coasts. In England it is confined to Devonshire. On the Continent it occurs only in the south-west.



Going for a moment further north, we find in Connemara, and there only, a group of three kinds of Heath with the same peculiar distribution:—



St. Dabeoc's Heath (Dabeocia polifolia). In Ireland in Connemara. Unknown in England. On the Continent confined to the south-west.

Mediterranean Heath (Erica mediterranea). In Ireland in Connemara. Unknown in England. On the Continent confined to the south-west.

Mackay's Heath (E. Mackaiana). In Ireland in Connemara. Unknown in England. On the Continent in Spain only.

Nor is it the plants alone that exhibit the peculiar relation existing between the Natural History of Ireland and of the Pyrenean region. Among the animals the same features may be observed, the most striking instance being the peculiar Kerry Slug (Geomalacus maculosus), which is abundant in many parts of the extreme south-west of Ireland, and is elsewhere found only in Portugal.



Mixed with these southern forms in the West of Ireland we find another group of still stranger affinities. In pools and lakes from Kerry to Donegal grows the curious Pipe-wort (Eriocaulon septangulare). It may be also found in the Island of Skye, in the West of Scotland, but nowhere else in Europe; to see it again we must go to the northern regions of North America, where it flourishes under conditions much more rigorous than those which obtain in its mild Irish home. The deliciously fragrant orchid, Spiranthes Romanzoviana, grows in the counties of Cork, Armagh, Antrim, and Londonderry; elsewhere only in sub-arctic America and the portion of Asia which most nearly approaches the Alaskan shores. The "Blue-eyed Grass" of Canada (Sisyrinchium angustifolium) is likewise confined to the West of Ireland and to North America; and further instances might be quoted. In the animal kingdom, too, parallel cases have been noted, the most interesting being the discovery of no less than three American species of fresh-water sponge, which are unknown in the rest of Europe.

To account for the presence of this American group naturalists are driven, as in the case of the southern species, to the conclusion that these represent one of the very oldest components of our existing fauna and flora, and point to a period when the edge of Europe was prolonged far to the north-west, forming a continuous land area, presumably by way of Iceland and Greenland, to America. And here on the wild western coast of Ireland these last inhabitants of the lost lands of Europe still survive.



4. CLARE AND EAST GALWAY.—Our last district—West Cork and Kerry—was characterised by great ribs of slate and sandstone, and by an absence of limestone and the numerous plants which follow in its train. The present district forms a marked contrast, being largely composed of Carboniferous limestone. And the remarkable thing about these limestones is that they are over many miles totally devoid of any covering of soil or clay; the grey gnarled rock, fantastically carved and crevassed by the action of rain and weather, lies naked and bare. But in the crevices of the rock a wonderful variety of rare and beautiful plants abound. One or two of these have their home in the far south, like the plants we have lately considered, notably the little Close-flowered Orchid, Neotinea intacta, whose nearest station is about Nice. But the majority of the interesting species of these limestones are alpine plants, usually found at high elevations on mountains, which here form sheets of verdure down to the very edge of the sea. The Mountain Dryas (D. octopetala), the Bearberry (Arctostaphylos Uva-ursi), the lovely Spring Gentian (G. verna), and the Blue Moor-grass (Sesleria caerulea) are good examples, all of them growing in great abundance from the hill-tops down to the shore. It is this strange mingling of plants from the far south, from the far north, and from the mountains, which renders the West of Ireland so fascinating a field for the botanist. In the barren district of Clare, and in the adjoining Isles of Arran and south-west portion of county Galway, this peculiar flora may be seen in its greatest perfection. Some very rare insects have been taken in eastern Galway, including the Lepidoptera Nallia ancilla and Lycaena artexerus.



5. WEST GALWAY AND WEST MAYO.—In this district we have again a complete change of geology and of scenery. The grey limestones with rich grass and rare flowers filling every crevice are gone, and we are in a wild region of ancient metamorphic rocks—schists, quartzites, gneisses, and granites—which form wide moorlands, dotted with innumerable lakelets, with noble mountain groups rising over the wild boggy lowlands. To the student of metamorphism the geology of this area is of very high interest. The botanist finds himself once again, as in Kerry, in a focus of the southern flora already discussed. As stated above, Connemara contributes to the list of Pyrenean plants three Heaths, of which St. Dabeoc's Heath is the loveliest of the British representatives of the order. Here we may also meet again our old Kerry friends the London Pride, and on Inisbofin the Irish Spurge—plants which strictly avoid the limestone, as do the Heaths. The American element is represented by the Pipe-wort, which is common, and the little water plant, Naias flexilis, which grows near Roundstone. Of the three famous Heaths, St. Dabeoc's is abundant throughout Connemara, becoming rarer in Mayo. The Mediterranean Heath grows near Roundstone, and in immense abundance on the north side of Clew Bay, and again near the north-west corner of Mayo, extending inland as far as Lough Conn. Mackay's Heath is the rarest, being confined to the neighbourhood of Roundstone. As regards its fauna, Connemara and West Mayo yield fewer peculiar species than the south-west; but much remains to be done before it can be said that the zoology of this area is thoroughly known, and it offers a most promising field for the explorer.

6. SLIGO.—The visitor who makes Sligo his headquarters finds himself in a district of much variety and interest. This is a district that cannot be too highly recommended to the naturalist. To the geologist the fossiliferous limestones and the metamorphic rocks are alike of interest. The botanist naturally turns to the Ben Bulben Mountains, which harbour the richest group of alpine plants to be found in Ireland, including the pretty Arenaria ciliata, which does not grow elsewhere in the British Isles. To the zoologist a rich field lies waiting. A recent exploration of the limestone glens by a party of English and Irish conchologists has shown that in variety of land mollusca this district surpasses almost any other in these islands; and good results may be confidently expected in other invertebrate groups.

7. THE CENTRE.—The area comprised in the field of operations of the Great Southern and Western Railway Company include the southern half of the great Central Plain of Ireland and the lower course of the Shannon, the largest river in the British Isles. Towards the east the counties of Carlow and Kilkenny include much picturesque ground, especially along the courses of the rivers Nore and Barrow; and as picturesque ground implies the existence of hill and valley, wood and rock, the naturalist will find himself at home here. The flora is rich, though without any very marked features; the Nettle-leaved Bell-flower (Campanula Trachelium) being the most characteristic species. Regarding the fauna much has still to be learned. In Tipperary, Queen's County, and King's County we are in typical central plain country—great tracts of slightly undulating drift-covered Carboniferous limestone, the surface including wide pastures, cultivated ridges, and large areas of peat bog and marsh. The bogs, which form so peculiar a feature of the surface of Ireland, may be studied here over many miles of country. The noble Shannon, which winds slowly southward across the plain, widens at intervals into great lake-like expanses, of which Lough Derg is the largest, a place of much interest to the student of natural history. One plant which grows here, the Willow-leaved Inula (I. salicina), is found nowhere else in the British Isles; other characteristic Shannon plants are the Water Germander (Teucrium Scordium) and the rare Stone wort Chara tomentosa. Further west, in Limerick, a more varied surface prevails. Like Waterford and Cork, Limerick is a great centre for animals of the "Southern" distributional type, such as the Wood White Butterfly (Leptidia sinapis) the Brimstone Butterfly (Gonapteryx rhamm), and the Purple Hair-streak (Thecla quercus). The small but handsome Ground-beetle, Panogaeus crux-major, is known in Ireland only from Finlough. This species has a typically "germanic" distribution in Great Britain. The Water-beetle Pelobius Hermanni, a very rare species, and the only British member of its family, occurs near Limerick and Cork. Cratloe Wood, by the Shannon near Limerick, may be specially recommended as a hunting-ground.



SPORT.

For sportsmen Ireland is a happy land, ready to supply their every want. Royal Meath, Kildare, Waterford, Tipperary, and Cork County are hunted by several good packs during-each season, and "the meets" are duly published in the local newspapers.

In the large tracts of bog, moorland, river reaches, and mountain lands there is splendid shooting; in Kerry especially, where poaching is put down with a heavy hand, there are plenty of opportunities for sport.

In most cases the hosts of the hotels have secured the shooting of many thousands of acres in their vicinity.

When the weather is "hard," excellent sport can be had along the southern districts.

The gentry most usually preserve their estates with great vigilance, but they are generous in giving permission to bona-fide sportsmen.



GENERAL HINTS

(FROM MECREDY'S ROAD BOOK OF IRELAND.)

June and September are the driest months in Ireland. Tourists will find the Royal Irish Constabulary the best source of information, and they cannot do better than inquire at the various police barracks on the way for advice as to places of interest to be visited, and the condition of the roads. In unfrequented country districts the footpaths as a rule may be taken with impunity, but it is never absolutely safe to do so. It is always well to enquire of other cyclists met en route. The roads are very variable, some being grand and others very bad. Intercourse with the peasantry will be found interesting and amusing. Nothing can exceed their civility and courtesy; and for those who are not too particular it will be found an excellent plan to lunch in their cottages, excellent tea, home-made bread, butter and eggs being procurable for 1/-per head. There is little use questioning them as to distances, however. They are nearly always wrong, and in any case they calculate in Irish miles—11 Irish equal 14 English. The police, however, are reliable, and give the distances in statute miles. Repairers are few and far between, but the local blacksmiths are often clever and handy men. The by-roads are generally better than the main roads, and the surface is better at the edge than in the middle. The mountain roads are as a rule very good, and not nearly so hilly as one would expect. The country people are rather stupid about getting out of one's way, and live stock on the road are a frequent source of danger, especially pigs, sheep, donkeys, and Kerry cows. Mountain passes should be negotiated carefully, as mountain torrents sometimes sweep away short stretches of otherwise excellent roads, and one comes on these spots unexpectedly. The corners, too, are excessively sharp, and steep pitches occur unexpectedly.

In most small Provincial towns the Hotels are not good, but in tourists' districts, such as Kerry, they are really excellent and the charges are reasonable. Where lodgings are required it is a good plan to ask the local Head Constable for advice.

CORK DISTRICT.

Cork is an excellent centre for cycling. The roads are in fair order and the inclines moderate. There is abundance of fine scenery, and notably in the extreme south and south-west where there are some entrancing tit-bits. Magnificent tracts of inland mountain scenery are to be found, and many important historical and archaeological ruins. There are hotels nearly everywhere within easy reach, many of them very good, and in most cases affording fair accommodation at reasonable cost.

One Day Tours from Cork.

No. 1.—To Queenstown, road 14 miles or rail 12 miles. Thence to East Ferry, 5 miles, cross the Ballinacurragh River by ferry. Thence by road to Midleton, 4 miles, back to Cork, road or rail, 12 miles. Fine views of the River Lee, Lough Mahon, the lovely Harbour of Queenstown, Ballinacurragh River, &c.

No. 2.—To Youghal, road or rail, 27 miles. Thence by road to Ardmore, 6 miles—a watering place with a ruined chapel where there are some curious carvings in stone, and a fine and perfect specimen of the old Irish round tower, Return same road.

No. 3.—To Midleton, 12 miles, road or rail. Thence to Cloyne, 6 miles, where there is an ancient Cathedral still in use. Thence to Ballycotton, 6 miles, a small watering place. Back by Cloyne and Aghada, on Queenstown Harbour, 12 miles. Thence by steamer to Queenstown, or across the East Ferry by road to Queenstown, 6 miles. Back by road or rail, 12 miles.

Hotels at Midleton, Cloyne, and Ballycotton.

No. 4.—To Queenstown, road or rail, then by steamer, 20 minutes across the harbour to Crosshaven. Thence by road, 2 miles, to Church Bay. Fine view of mouth of the harbour and open Atlantic. Thence by Carrigaline and Douglas, back to Cork, 12 miles.

Good hotels at Crosshaven and Church Bay.

No. 5.—Cork to Blarney, by the Valley of the Lee and Carrigrohane, 9 miles. Famous Castle of Blarney with the "Kissing Stone." The Groves of Blarney round the Castle may be seen, also St. Ann's Hydropathic establishment. Return by Rathpeacon and Blackpool to Cork, 6 miles.

No. 6.—Cork to Dunkettle, 3 miles, road or rail, thence along the Glanmire River to Glanmire, 2 miles. Thence by Sallybrook and Kilcully, back to Cork, 6 miles.

Two Day Tours from Cork.

No. 1.—Cork to Macroom, road or rail, 25 miles. Thence to Inchigeela, 10 miles, and Gougane Barra, 10 miles. Beautiful lake scenery, and the hermitage at Gougane Barra; a chapel on the Holy Lake is well worth seeing. The Pass of Keimaneigh is 3 miles further. From this point the traveller can return to sleep at Inchigeela or Macroom, where, at both places, there are good hotels; or may continue his journey to Glengarriff, Kenmare, or Killarney. If returning to Cork from Macroom, the journey may be made by Coachford and Dripsey, distance about 25 miles.

No. 2.—Cork to Bandon, 20 miles by rail or road. Thence to Courtmacsherry and the Old Head of Kinsale, each about 7 miles by road. The tourist can sleep at either place, and return to Cork by Kinsale and Innishannon, or continue his journey to Bantry, 37-1/2 miles by road or rail. Thence to Glengarriff, Killarney, &c.

Tours for Three or more Days from Cork.

No. 1.—Cork to Youghal, 28 miles by road or rail. Thence to Temple Michael, 3 miles along left bank of the River Blackwater, through Dromana to Cappoquin, 11 miles. From Cappoquin the Trappist Monastery of Mount Melleray, 3-1/2 miles, can be visited. Returning to Cappoquin the tourist can take either bank of the Blackwater, along a beautiful and level road to Lismore, 3-1/2 miles. The distance from Lismore to Fermoy is 16 miles by road or rail; the road along the Valley of the Blackwater being very fine throughout, and most picturesque. At Lismore the beautiful castle belonging to the Duke of Devonshire can be seen. The tourist can return from Fermoy to Mallow 16 miles, and thence to Cork, 21 miles. Good hotels at Youghal, Lismore, Fermoy, and Mallow.

No. 2.—Two day tour, No. 1, can be extended to three or more days, by proceeding from Inchigeela to Glengarriff, 23 miles, and Killarney, 39 miles. Good hotels at Inchigeela, Glengarriff, Kenmare, and Killarney.

Two day tour, No. 2, can be similarly extended to three or more days, by continuing the journey from Bandon to Bantry, 37-1/2 miles. Thence 10 miles by road to Glengarriff, thence to Killarney, 39 miles. Good hotels at Bantry, Glengarriff, Kenmare, and Killarney. Or from Kenmare, 20 miles, or from Glengarriff the tourist can ride to Parknasilla, 16 miles from Kenmare, where there is an excellent modern hotel and some of the loveliest scenery in Ireland.

LIMERICK DISTRICT.

To the cyclist on tour, Limerick and the surrounding districts offer many scenic attractions in wood, lake, and river. The roads are not good as a rule, owing in a great measure, to the fact that the city is the centre of a large agricultural district. The hotels in the city are good, and in the surrounding towns and villages the tourist will find good accommodation in hotels and otherwise.

One Day Tours from Limerick.

No. 1.—Perhaps the easiest one day tour which the cyclist can enjoy from Limerick, as his head quarters, is to Doonass Falls via Clonlara. Five miles thence by O'Brien's Bridge, 7 miles, to Killaloe, where an excellent lunch can be had. The return home can be made by Castleconnell, the popular resort of the devotees of "Izaak Walton," where an excellent tea can be had at the Shannon Hotel.

No. 2.—Castleconnell and Clare Glens, and lengthened visit to Castleconnell to view the waterfalls, "The World's End"—a remarkably fine reach of the River Shannon. There is much to interest the visitor in the gigantic eel fishery, and here also is the renowned Enright, whose fishing rods are used all over the world. The Clare Glen, situated by the way in Limerick county, is not far from Castleconnell; and if liberty is obtained beforehand, the Glenstal Demesne, seat of the Barrington family, can be visited. Sir Charles Barrington, the present baronet, has never yet refused permission to the cycling tourist to view the charming scenery surrounding the Glenstal Castle.

No. 3.—Askeaton, 16-1/2 miles, splendid road, one of the best from Limerick; famous old abbey to be visited, with excellent fishing on the Deel, granted that the tourist has obtained the requisite permission.

No. 4.—Adare, 9 miles; roads pretty good. Mr. P. Fitzgerald, J.P., Agent to Lord Dunraven, should be written to beforehand for a permit to visit the demesne, where some fine old ruins are in an excellent state of preservation. The Manor House is a magnificent building, but visitors are only allowed to enter when the family are away. This is well known as the district which inspired Gerald Griffin to write one of his famous poems. Lunch can be had at very moderate terms at the Dunraven Arms Hotel. The demesne wall turns eastward to Croom. The name of this village is derived from the old war cry of the Geraldines, "Munster Branch "—Crom-a-boo. To Limerick, from Croom, via Patrick's Well, there is a pretty good road, 10 miles.

Two Days Tours from Limerick.

Ballybunion. Good roads generally, but slightly up-hill when the Kingdom is reached. This charming seaside resort is rapidly coming to rival Kilkee. It has splendid bathing accommodation, and the coast scenery and caves equal to those of any other watering place in Ireland. The visitor for the first time makes his acquaintance with the Lartique, or "Single Line," Railway—the only one in the United Kingdom—from Listowel to Ballybunion, a distance of 8 miles.

Returning to Limerick, a digression can be made to Shanid Castle, near Shanagolden. This towering mass of masonry, perched high on a hill—three sides of which are precipitous—is almost ignored by tourists. It was one of the strongholds of the Desmonds. The other spots on the Shannon—homeward bound—are Glinn, where the hereditary Knight of Glin has his seat, and where Gerald Griffin resided in his young days, near the pretty little village of Loughill. Foynes and Foynes Island, seat of Sir Aubrey de Vere, will repay a visit. Hotels are good on this line, also roads.

No. 2.—Waterford and Tramore. Decent roads and accommodation, as good as can be got once outside Limerick county, border at the Limerick Junction, a distance of 20 miles from the Treaty Stone. Splendid views of the Galtee ranges can be had, and on towards Clonmel the wooded slopes of the minor ranges and hills are a delightful picture. If time affords, the tourist can digress from the main road and visit the famous Glen of Aherlow. Back to Tipperary for lunch, good hotels, and splendid roads. Visit the Kickham monument, and then on to Clonmel. Excellent accommodation to be had at Clonmel. Next day Waterford and Tramore, and back.

Tours for Three or more Days from Limerick.

Ballybunion, Tarbert, Kilrush, Kilkee, Lisdoonvarna, from Ballybunion. See "No. 1 Day Tours." Tarbert is only a few miles from Ballybunion. There is a steamboat service across the Shannon estuary to Kilrush. Thence to Kilkee by road, where first night out can be had. Next day to Spanish Point, Milltownmalbay, Lisdoonvarna, to the famous "Spa"; home via Ennis, splendid roads.

No. 2.—Killaloe, Scariff, Portumna, and Upper Shannon. A most enjoyable trip can be had from Killaloe. See "No. 1 Day Tour." There is a constant steamboat service on Lough Derg, which will take a cyclist and his machine, and land him at Scariff—on the Clare side—or Portumna, "Galway." From either of these towns a tourist can have his chance of the most diversified lake and river scenery to be had in the kingdom. Without doubt the praises of Lough Derg and the Upper Shannon have not been sung sufficiently. From Portumna to Dromineer, on the Tipperary shore, by lake steamer, thence to Nenagh on bike; splendid roads home to Limerick, 27 miles.

KILLARNEY DISTRICT.

Killarney is an ideal centre for the cyclist. Good roads proceed in every direction, and mounted on his favourite machine the wheelman will be able to discover and investigate scenic treasures unknown to the ordinary tourist.

One Day Tours from Killarney.

No. 1.—Killarney to Gap of Dunloe, 10 miles; Owenreagh Glen, 18 miles; Windy Gap, 30 miles. Killarney, total, 36 miles. Care should be taken to keep on the proper road through the Glen; there are many crossings. Any of the local folk will point out the road.

No. 2.—Killarney to Torc Waterfall, 3 miles; return to Muckross Hotel, 4 miles; enter demesne at Dinis, 10 miles; on to Kenmare road and home to Killarney, 17 miles. The road through Muckross Demesne is in some places dangerous owing to its steep and winding character.

No. 3.—Killarney to Ross Castle, 1-1/2 miles; through demesne to Library Point, 2-1/2 miles. Back through Ross Island and demesne to Mahony's Point, 9-1/2 miles; Killarney, 12-1/2 miles. This road is perfectly safe and good, except two descents in Ross Island. Returning from Mahony's Point to Killarney by Aghadoe, about 15 miles, splendid view of Lower Lake and mountains can be had from the old ruins of Aghadoe.

No. 4.—Killarney to Glenflesk via Lough Guittane. Visit Robbers' Den, 9 miles, home via Headford and Barraduff, 26 miles. Roads good, scenery wild and romantic. There are many short and beautiful trips which can be made in and about the neighbourhood.

Two Day Tours from Killarney.

No. 1.—Killarney to Windy Gap, 16 miles; thence to Parknasilla across mountain. Total, 30 miles. Remain for night at Southern Hotel, Parknasilla. Parknasilla to Kenmare, 14 miles, and back to Killarney via Kilgarvan. Total, 35 miles. Roads fairly good, but in places very steep, so that riders must keep a careful watch.

No. 2.—Killarney to Beaufort, 6 miles; thence to Glencar, 19 miles, and on to Caragh Lake Hotel, 27 miles. Remain at Caragh Lake Hotel for the night. Return to Killarney via Windy Gap and Gerah Cross. There are some sharp turns and steep descents requiring care.

Tours for Three or more Days from Killarney.

No. 1.—Killarney to Kenmare, 20 miles. Thence by Glengarriff, 40 miles, to Macroom, via Inchigeela, Pass of Keimaneigh to Millstreet, and back to Killarney. Hotels at Kenmare (Southern Hotel), Glengarriff, Inchigeela, Macroom, and Millstreet.

No. 2.—Killarney to Killorglin. Caragh Lake, Cahirciveen, visit Valentia, Waterville, Parknasilla, Kenmare, and back to Killarney by either rail or road.

WATERFORD DISTRICT.

Waterford can be recommended as a cycling centre, as the scenery in many districts of the South-east of Ireland is beautiful in the extreme, and can compare favourably with any in the country, and the roads are first rate. The hotels, too, are generally very good, and have been improved wonderfully of late, and the tariffs have been so arranged by the South-eastern Branch of the Irish Cyclist Association, that all requirements of the most slender purse can be satisfactorily arranged.

Below we sketch out a few very enjoyable Tours which can be made, taking Waterford as the starting point:—

First Tour from Waterford.

Leaving-Waterford by the Newtown-road, we pass the house in which Lord Roberts spent his early days, and where his father and mother lived for many years. This is actually in the Borough and, from the grounds surrounding it, a capital view of the river and part of the City can be had. After passing by Newtown we keep along to the left until Parkswood is reached, when we run under a bridge and up a hill to Checkpoint, and here a magnificent view can be obtained. From the hill overlooking this pretty little village seven counties can be seen. Dunbrody Abbey, one of the most famous ecclesiastical ruins in Ireland, is situated immediately opposite on the other side of the river. Duncannon Fort, a short distance from here, comes into view, and we are enabled to see the joining of the three rivers—Suir, Nore, and Barrow. We pass from Checkpoint, and we reach Passage, a famous fishing station since the herring industry has become so prosperous in this part of Ireland. A little further on is Woodstown, and right opposite on the far side of the river can be seen Duncannon Fort, a fortified place in the days of old. Turning to the right by Ballyglan, we mount a steep incline, and we then come in view of Hook Tower, a beacon light which is said to be the oldest in the kingdom. Dunmore, about five miles from Woodstown, is one of the most picturesque, beautiful, and delightful resorts in the whole of Ireland. Here there is a magnificent pier, and boating and fishing can be enjoyed to one's heart's content. Wheeling back in the Waterford direction we make for Tramore, ten miles away. It is beautifully situated, and the visitor here can spend several hours in viewing the most attractive scenery. Close to the town are the Golf Links and the Race Course.

From Tramore to Waterford the run is over a splendid level road, and the distance seven miles.

The full distance of this run is 33 miles, and at all the principal points capital hotel accommodation can be had.

Tour Two, from Waterford.

The first part of this run is to Passage. At the Half-way House take the turn over the bridge, up the hill and down a steep decline to Passage. At the latter place the ordinary ferryboat can be taken to Ballyhack, which is directly opposite. The run from Ballyhack to Duncannon is over a fairly surfaced road. At the latter place M'Gonnigal's hotel is well appointed. From Duncannon the run to the famous Hook Tower is about seven miles, and the surface of the road generally is very good. Along this run a splendid view of the Harbour can be obtained, and on the way there are several places of interest—Loftus Hall, the Irish seat of the Marquis of Ely, stands on the edge of the river unprotected by a single tree. It was modernised within the last 25 years, and is now a splendidly appointed mansion. Bag-an-Bun, a little distance off, will well repay a visit—the coast line at this point being the principal attraction. From Hook we run to Fethard, 6 miles to the left, and here a very pleasant hour can be spent. Tintern Abbey is the next point to be visited. This is one of the most famous Abbeys in the country. From Tintern to Dunbrody the distance is 8 miles, and here we can spend a considerable time in viewing the great historical ruin, said to be one of the finest in the whole of Ireland. Leaving Dunbrody we come to the ferry of Ballinlaw, and crossing here ride by Snow-hill and Bellview into Waterford. The full distance of this ride is 41 miles.

Tour Three from Waterford.

Proceeding up the Cork road we ride up Ballyaneeshagh Hill, and on the left see Butlerstown Castle, an ancient building: which, in the days of Cromwell, held out for sometime against his forces. At the Sweep we turn round to the right and run to the bottom of the hill. A little way from the end of the hill the right turn is to be taken again to Kilmeaden, 8 miles. The ride then is to Portlaw four miles away. Some fifty years ago this town was the seat of a great cotton industry. It has since fallen into decay, and the place looks like Goldsmith's "Deserted Village." Just outside the town is the magnificent demesne of Curraghmore, said to be the finest in the three kingdoms. The variety of scenery here is almost unsurpassed. Curraghmore is the property of the Marquis of Waterford. It is one of the great points of vantage to tourists and pic-nic parties. Passing through the demesne we come to the house itself, a modern and rather unpretentious structure. The court-yard is, however, very large, and is said to be capable of accommodating close upon 100 horses. Clonegam Church, where Lord William Beresford, uncle to the present Marquis of Waterford, was laid to rest, can be seen on the right glistening in the trees on the hill side. Through Curraghmore we ride to Clonea, about 5 miles further on, and then to the foot of the Comeragh Mountains, which occupy a centre of the county, and which are to be seen from all parts, as well as from a considerable portion of Tipperary. The greatest natural curiosity in this range is the appearance and site of an almost circular lake, by name Coomshinawin. From Coomshinawin to Kilmacthomas the distance is about 8 miles. Kilmacthomas Woollen Factory may be visited, and a good hotel accommodation can be had at Walsh's. From Kilmacthomas to Waterford is 16-1/2 miles over a good road, the full distance being 45 miles.

Tour Four, from Waterford.

Our next tour will be from Waterford, via the Sweep, to Knockaderry, 9 miles away. At the latter place there is a very fine lake which amply supplies the City. Leaving Knockaderry we reach Dunhill, close to which place is the Castle of Donile, still distinguished for its peculiar and romantic situation, and in ancient times the property of De-La-Poer, from whom the present Marquis is descended. The village of Annestown, distant about one mile, is on the sea coast, and from it a magnificent view of rock and ocean scenery can be had. The run from Annestown to Tramore is over a beautiful road, and many pretty views of the coast can be seen. The spin to Waterford completes this tour, which is one of nearly thirty miles.