In ordering your Arms, observe you make a little stop before you let the Butt-ends come to the Ground; so that each one may bear you company, and they may fall together at once; and after they are laid down, and quitted, you must stand up together so suddenly, as all your Risings may appear as it were but one Motion.

When you March from your Arms, step Front and Rear at once, with the Left-feet Marching but a little distance.

Then lay your Right-hand on your Sword, taking hold of your Scabbard with your Left; and then drawing, hold your Swords upright before you; after you have held them there a while, bring them down at one Motion, and when by Command your Swords are returned, stand upright to your Arms, facing to your proper Front; and if any thing is to be further known, consider the Exercise of the Pike and Musket distinctly, and you will be informed to your Satisfaction.

Of the Match-Lock.

These Locks were formerly in more use than Fire-Locks, and at this day they are sometimes mixed among them; wherefore I shall speak somewhat relating to the Words of Command, that seem to differ from the Fire-lock, viz.

1. Lay down your Match, 2. Handle your Match, 3. Blow your Match, 4. Cock and try your Match, 5. Return your Match.

All these chiefly consist in keeping your Match in order, with a good hard and well lighted Coal, fastning it on Command, advantageous in your Skrew, blowing the Coal, and so by pulling the Trigger, trying your Pan with false Flashes, laying it down at Command, and by the same order taking it up again; shortning it to the Pan, that it may give true Fire, and upon firing, to return it, and recover the Coal, if it be shattered by the force of the Powder. You must observe also to keep your Match dry, that on occasion you may not be disappointed.

And this in brief is all materially relating to the Match-Lock; the other Postures of the Musket are all ready described, being sufficient to direct the Exercise; yet seeing many lay much stress on the Beat of Drum, Take that a long with you, as it relates to Exercise, and so I shall take Leave of the foot, and make a visit to the Horse.

Exercise by Beat of Drum, relating to the Foot.

There are usually observed in this, six Points, which are called Points of War, and are said to be semi-vocal; because by them the Soldiers understand what is to be done; and can distinguish their Duty and Exercise; and of these in their order.

1. The Call. This is to Summon the Soldiers together to their Arms, or upon any other occasion, as to hear Proclamation, or receive Directions, &c. from the Officers, and are not without leave to Ramble, especially in time of War, beyond the hearing of it, under great Penalties.

2. The Troop. When the Soldiers hear this, they must Advance their Pikes, Shoulder their Muskets, and close their Ranks and Files to order, following their Leaders or Commanders to the place of Rendezvous, Quarters, or elsewhere.

3. The March. When you hear this, you must betake you to your open Orders in Ranks, Shoulder both Musket and Pike; and so as the Drum beats, you March slower or quicker.

4. The Preparative. Is to warn you to close your proportionable or due distance, when you are to prepare for Battle or Skirmish; and to see every thing be in order that may turn to advantage.

5. The Battle. This is by some called the Charge, or Signal to Charge the Enemy, and is beat in the beginning of the Fight to animate the Soldiers Courage.

6. The Retreat. This is beat when being over-powered, it is thought convenient to draw off and save a total Rout, or sometimes when an Enemy you suppose stronger than your self advances towards you to engage, but by Retreating you avoid him.

There are two more things on the Drum, somewhat to our purpose, viz.

1. The Tatto or Tapto. This is used in a Rounds and Garisons, to give notice to the Soldiers and Inhabitants when they ought to repair to their Quarters and Houses.

2. Revalley. Is to let them know when it is time to rise in the Morning, and attend on their Duty also. In Garisons, to let the People know when its safe to go abroad, the out Scouts being Relieved.

The Exercise of Horse in Troops or Squadrons, &c.

The Exercise of the Horse is various from that of the Foot, and therefore that I may not be wanting in what is necessary to the young Soldier in their Exercising in the County Troops, or those that may enter the present Service Abroad, I shall endeavour to give the Words of Command proper with their Explanation.

And first, when Troop or Squadron is drawn out to Exercise, I suppose their Carbines and Pistols loaden, and the Corporals passing through the Ranks to see they are all ready, upon which, observe the chief Officer Commands Silence, and gives the following Words of Command, viz.

1. Lay your Right Hands on your Swords. 2. Draw your Swords. 3. Put your Swords in your Bridle-hand. 4. Lay your Hands on your Pistols. 5. Hold up your Hands. Give Fire.

When you have fired, let not your Pistol-hand sink till the next Word of Command, viz.

6. Return your Pistols.

And this you must observe in Firing to the Left and Right; Then,

7. Lay your Hands on your Carbines. 8. Advance your Carbines. 9. Cock your Carbines. Fire. 10. Let fall your Carbines. 11. Take your Swords from your Bridle-hands.

These must be done with a swift and exact Motion, all as near as may be doing it at one and the same time.

If a Squadron of Horse is to Wheel to the Right, the Right-hand-man must not close to the Left, as has in ancient times been; for that many times disorders the Rank; but you must keep your Ground, suffering the Left to come about whilst you only turn your Horses Heads, observing your Left-hand-man.

To close the File.

The Right Wing file stand.

1. Close your files. 2. To The Right. 3. To the Left as you were. 4. To the Left wing, and stand. 5. To the Left by files close the Squadron. 6. To the Right as you were. 7. The Right and Left Wing Files stand. 8. By half Ranks, close Files to the Right and Left.

And by closing Files you may cleave or divide the Squadron.

The Order of closing Ranks.

1. File-leader stand. } { Or open on the Front, 2. By ranks close the } { Or the first distances. Squadron to the Front. } { 3. On the Front as } { And so be cautious in you were. } { observing each Motion.

How doubling Ranks must be Ordered.

1. By half Files to the Right, double your Ranks to the Front. 2. File-leaders, advance your Ranks, File-leaders, take your Ground.

And in this manner Command likewise to the Left, the Order being one and the same in the Words of Command. [Again,]

3. The first half Files stand. 4. By half file-leaders on the Left-wing, double your Rank to the Front.

Now to reduce this, take the following Method;

1. Right-wing half Ranks, advance your Ranks. 2. Half File-leader take your Ground. 3. The first half File stand. 4. By half File-leaders on the Right and Left-wings, double your Ranks to the Front, Carocoling to the Right and Left. Then the last half File stand, and the first half file by Carocol in the Right and Left on the wings; then double our Ranks to the Rear.

Here observe the first File must open the half Rank to the Right and Left, the first half File by Carocol. Then

To the Right and Left double your Ranks to the Rear.

Here observe the last half File must open the half Rank to the Right and Left.

As for the word Carocol, it signifies no more when you Wheel by it, than that it is made by the depth of the Flank of the Squadron, by which Order not the Files, but the Ranks make the Motion.

There is an other Word which some may not well understand at the first setting out, which is called Controversion; and this in Wheeling is performed by the Front of the Squadron, so that whilst the Rank makes the Motion, the File remains.

Instructions for Wheeling, with the proper words of Command.

When the Word is given, viz. To the Right by Conversion, understand that you must close your Right-leg to the Horse, your Knee touching that of your Right-hand-mans, and in like manner observe in the Word of Command to the Left; as when it is said, Close to the Left, then must the Leg be Closed.

By half Ranks and Conversion, divide the Squadron into two Troops.

If you would reduce the Squadron, the Word of Command is.

By Controversion: The Squadron into one Troop, else the Left-wing advance by Conversion.

When you Wheel by Carocol, observe the Word of Command as follows,

The Right-wing to the Left by Carocol, Face about to the Rear: Or it may be done by half Ranks in this manner,

By Quarter Ranks, and by Carocol, divide the Squadron into three Troops.

Then if you would reduce them, order Quarter Ranks and Troops into Squadrons.

If the Volt, Face or facing about be required, observe thus,

Face about to the Right: Face to the Right by Controversion; Face about by Carocol to the Right: Face about to the Left by half Files: Face about to the Right and Left.

And thus much may serve for Wheeling.

The manner of Filing off.

In this case observe, To File by Ranks on the Right-wing, from the Squadron,

File off by Ranks, on the Left-Wing, from the Squadron on the Right,

File off by three Files from the Squadron, the Left-Wing: And this is found the most Expedient way, though some have used to File off by Ranks.

In Hay, what Order is to be considered in drawing up.

Do this, by half Ranks to the Right: To the Right and Left drawing in Hay: To the Front. And if it requires to be reduced again, then proceed by Carocol, viz.

To the Right and Left as you were.

By half Ranks, and by Carocol to the Right and Left.

Then draw up in Hay to the Rear.

In Reduction the Command is;

To the Front as you were.

By half Ranks to the Right and Left, and draw up in Hay.

Reduction by Carocol.

To the Right draw up in Hay.

Reduction by Carocol.

To the Left as you were.

Of doublings.

Doublings are very useful, especially in strengthening any Party, that needs Succour in the Battle; and is to be noted under these general Heads.

1. Doubling of length, Front and Rear. 2. Doubling of Depth, both Flanks.

But in the particular, they are numbered six, that is to say, first of Ranks, when every Rank doubles into the odd, and if it so fall out, that the odd Ranks are to double, then must the Body Face to the Rear, without any Word of Command expected.

3. Half Files. 4. Bringers up. Here they are held to double when the Rear is doubled into the Front. 5. In doubling the Rear observe it done, when the half Files double the Rear. 6. Here take notice that doubling of half Ranks must be by one Rank doubling the other.



The Noble Science of Defence, in all its Useful Particulars, for Defending and Offending, with the Rapier or final Sword; after the exactest Method now in Use.

This Science, if well understood, as to the fining and using it, is not only a noble Exercise, but of great importance to the saving our lives on emergent Occasions, if it extend not to Vain-glory and Presumption, by too much relying on our Skill, to carry us into quarrels, which we may reasonably, and without loss of Honour or Reputation avoid. Wherefore I have thought it convenient to lay down such Rules as may enable the learner to proceed in the Practice.

The first thing to be considered in this Case, is, the Sword it self, understanding only in this the small Sword or Rapier, which is divided into two Parts, viz. The Hilt and the Blade.

The Hilt is again divided into three Parts, viz. the Pommel or Ball at the far end, sometimes Round and sometimes Oval in Shape. This keeps the Hilt fast, by being well riveted, and by its poise makes the Sword well mounted, or light before the Hand. The next is that part on which you grasp your Hand, commonly called the Handle: and then the Shell, which is that part of the Hilt next the Blade, to preserve your Hand (if you are any thing weary in managing it) from a Thrust or Blow.

The Blade is divided into two Parts only. The first next to the Hilt, being termed the strong Part or Fort. The other, which is the extream, is termed the Feeble, or they are otherways termed the Prime, and the Second. The strong Fort or Prime of the Blade, is measured from the Shell to the middle of the Blade, and being the strongest, is made use of in Parying, or to put by Thrusts or Blows. The Feeble, weak or second part, is accounted from the Middle to the Point, and is properly made use of in Offending or giving Thrusts or Blows; and thus much may serve for the Description of the Sword: Now I proceed to the Explanation of the Terms, fit to be known by a Practitioner.

A Guard.

This is a proper Posture you must place your self in, for the better defending your self from the Thrusts or Blows of those you Fence with, or defend your self from.

To Parie.

Observe that this is to put by a Blow or Thrust, that it may not touch you, but be cast off without hurt or danger.

Quart.

Here you must hold the Nails of your Sword-hand upwards, with a steady Arm; and then it is said to be held in quart.

Terce.

This is the contrary to the former, for the Nails of your Hand must be held downwards; and then the Sword is held in Terce.

Within the Sword.

This is that part of your Body, (which having your Right-side towards your Adversary) is between your Sword and Left-breast.

Within the Sword.

This is the part of the Body, that (when you hold your Sword towards your Left-side) is above it the breadth of your Body.

The Approach or Advance.

This is done, when being out of your Adversaries reach, or at a pretty distance from him; you make your Approach or Advance towards him.

To Retire or Retreat.

This is when you are within your Adversaries reach, that you get put of it by stepping or Jumping backwards; which you must observe to do on a strait Line.

Measure.

This is only a distance between you and your Adversary, which must be cautiously and exactly observed when he is Thrusting at you; so that you may be without his measure or reach, and that taking the Advantage of this, it may be so, that when you Thrust your Thrusts may be home.

To break Measure.

Observe here, just as your Adversary is Thrusting at you, at his full Elonge, he may come short of you, because you are, or escape out of his Measure, or reach, and so break his Measure, of which I shall say somewhat more hereafter.

To Elonge.

This is to Streach forward your Right Arm and Leg, and keep a close Left-foot; and this you do when you give in a Thrust, and when you do it, you are said to make an Elonge.

Respost.

This is when you give in a Thrust before you recover your Body, receiving a Thrust after your Adversary hath Paried your Sword. Then is it said to be a Thrust on the Respost or back of the Parade, which is the surest and safest you can give.

Feinting or Falsifying.

This is a dodging or deceiving your Adversary, making him believe you give back in earnest, and make an offer to Thrust in one place when you really design to do it in another.

Beating.

This is no other than striking the Feeble of your Adversaries Sword with the Edg and Fort of yours, either with your Right-hand only, or the help of your Left, joyned to the Blade, about a foot from the Hilt; and so you will cause the Beat to have the greater Spring or Force.

Battery.

The difference from Beating in this, is only Striking with the Edg of the Feeble, upon the Edg of the Feeble of your Adversaries Sword, though Beating secures his Sword a great deal better than Battery.

Binding.

This method is taken to secure your Adversaries Sword, with eight or ten Inches of yours upon five or six Inches of his.

Caveating or Disengaging.

Here you must, if you can, flip your Adversaries Sword, when you perceive him about to bind or secure yours.

To take Time.

In taking Time, you must observe never to Thrust, but when you see a fair Opportunity, or otherwise it is the Thrusting at your Adversary when he is making the Feint, or the flipping of him, when you perceive him about to Bind or Bear your Sword.

Counter Temps.

This is when you Thrust without a good Opportunity, or when you Thrust, at the same time your Adversary do's the like.

Quarting on the Strait Line.

This is done by carrying your Head and Shoulders very much back from your Adversaries Sword, and are giving in a Thrust within it, and that each of you at that time receive a Thrust.

Quarting of the strait Line, called de Quarting.

Here you must Observe to throw in your Left-foot, and Body backwards off the strait Line, towards your Adversary, keeping your Right-foot firm.

Volting.

This is a leaping by your Adversaries Left-side quite out of his reach or measure, which on many emergent occasions is very proper.

These Terms a Practitioner must be knowing in before he proceeds to the other Lessons, or Adventures on sharp, especially in earnest; from whence I proceed to the next thing materially to be considered, which is the

Holding of the Sword.

In doing this according to Art, and to the most advantage, Hold your Thumb on the broad side of the Handle, and your Fingers quite round it; hold it in this manner firm and fair; so that your Adversary, with the least sudden beat or twist, may not force it out of your hand, which the hazard in holding it loosely may occasion to your damage.

Of keeping a Guard.

The Guards are in general but two; The one in Quart and the other in Terce; but again the Quart Guard is subdivided into two, viz. The Quart with the strait Point, and the Quart with the Point sloaping near to the Ground.

The Terce is so likewise divided, that is, the Terce with the Point higher than the Hilt, and the Terce with the Point lower than the Hilt. There is yet another Guard, that requires you to hold your Sword with both your Hands; and of these in their order.

Of the Quart Guard, with the strait Point.

You have two ways with this Guard to defend your self, either by Parying or using Contraries to what your Adversary plays, as I shall more fully shew you when I come to discourse of the five Parades; however here observe in the strait Guard, which is most in use, to keep a thin Body, which is done by shewing your Right-side to your Adversary, managing your feet in a strait Line from him; so that for your Right he cannot see your Left-leg, yet set them not too wide, for that will make your Elong the shorter; nor too close, for that will hinder the firmness of standing; and let the Point of your Right foot be turned somewhat outwards from the strait Line, but the broad side of your Left must look towards your Adversary. You are also to sink with your Thighs your Left-knee, a little more bent than your Right, which may be done by your leaning somewhat back on your Left-thigh; when you present your Sword, you must hold it with your Nails upwards, as has been directed in Quart. The Hilt of your Sword must be as High as your Right-pap, keeping your Arm a little bent, for the better and easier pursuing your Adversary; or for the quicker giving in a Thrust: The Point must be towards your Adversaries Right-side, two or three Inches lower than the Hilt, your Left-hand held up as high as your Left-ear, about half a Foot from it, the Palm directly against your Adversaries Face, your Fingers pointing as it were towards him.

The Quart-guard, with the sloping Point.

In this Guard you must stand much straiter than in the former, the Point of your Sword sloping within half a Foot of the Ground, your Hilt as low as your Wast, your Arm bended, and the Nails of your Sword-hand between Terce and Quart; Here you are also to make use of your Left-hand, and therefore the more readily to do it, you must advance your Left Shoulder almost as far forward as your Right, keeping your Belly in as much as may be, so that it stand well, and your Breast out, your Left-hand as high as the side of your Head, though about half a Foot from it. This is a very open Guard, yet to those that know not how to pursue it, it is much Surprizing. And you may pursue this;

First, by raising up or gathering your Adversaries Sword.

Secondly, by striking at his Sword, and making half Thrusts at the Body, by which he will be doubtful when you intend to give in your Thrust, and finding an Opportunity give it home; and ever when you persue this Guard, let your Left-hand be in a readiness to Parie your Opponents Thrust, if he Thrust just as you are Thrusting, which is the main defence on this Guard.

Thirdly you may give a stroak at his Left-hand; after you give a beat at his sword, and see if by so doing, you can force him to betake himself to another Guard.

Fourthly, You may Volt, and in your so doing, give him the Thrust, which being clearly done, will mainly surprize him.

The-Terce-guard, with the Point higher than the Hilt.

In this you must hold the Nails of your Sword-hand downwards, as in Terce, and your Hand lower than in the Quart-Guard, with a strait Point, presenting the Point of your Sword towards your Adversaries Left-shoulder; if he be a tall Man; but if Short, then to his Left-eye, keeping your Arm somewhat bent, for the better persuing: Lean therefore a little forward with your Body, and make use of your Left-hand for a Parade, holding it somewhat lower than in the former Guard. The rest of your Body being kept, as in the Quart-Guard, with the strait Point.

This Guard may be pursued either with Striking, Binding, Volting, or Passing, for a Feint on this Guard will signifie little or nothing if your Adversary understand it; for as in no Guard, he is to answer Feints, least of all in this, the Right defence being to secure your self without your Sword, which is done by presenting your Sword to the Left-shoulder of your Adversary, or as said, his Eye, so that your Body be quite covered without your Sword.

The Terce-Guard, with the Point lower than the Hilt.

Here you must in this bow your Head, holding up your Arm high, so that if you come to give a Thrust, your Head may be, as it were, under it, your Nails being in Quart till you make your Thrust, and then change them into Terce; your Feet must be kept at their due distance, and not as at a full Elong; your Sword must be presented towards your Adversaries Left-side, and you must make use of your Left-hand for the Parade, and it is to be pursued and defended, as the forgoing Terce-Guard, only in defending it, you must not make so much use of your Left-hand, but more of your Sword.

The Guard of Both Hands.

This is a Guard, that I find not any proper Name for, though it is sometimes used as very necessary, how ever, as to the holding your Sword in this Guard, keep your Body exactly in the Posture of the Quart-Guard with the strait Point; but joyn your Left-hand to your Sword, about eight or ten Inches from the Hilt, the Blade being held between your formost Finger and Thumb, secure your self within your Sword, as soon as you present it, viz. Present the Point towards your Adversaries Right-thigh, with your Point sloping towards the Ground a little; for to pursue this Guard, you must endeavour to take away your Adversaries Left-hand by striking at it, and immediately after the stroak, proffer a Thrust at his Body, that he may be doubtful when you really intend to give in your Thrust; and indeed the pursuit is much like that of the Quart-Guard, with the sloping Point, and thus much for the Five sorts of Guards.

Of the several Parades.

The Parades are generally Two, but are sub-divided as the Guard, and those two are the Parade in Quart, and the Parade in Terce, which are as is said, divided again into the Parade in Quart, with the Point a little higher than the Hilt. The Parade in Quart, with the Point sloping towards your Adversaries Right-thigh, and as though without it.

2. The Parade in Terce, with the Point a little higher than the Hilt, and the Parade in Terce, with the Point sloping towards your Adversaries Thigh on the Left-side.

There is yet an other Parade of some use, and used by many Fencing Masters, which may be properly termed Counter-Caveating Parade; by reason what ever Lesson your Adversary makes use of, or upon what side so ever he Thrusts, if you make use of this Parade, as you ought, you will undoubtedly meet with his Sword, and the easier cross his purpose, than by any of the former; and of these I shall give proper Directions,

1. The Quart Parade, or the Parade within the Sword, is so called, because in putting by the Thrust, you do it on the inside your Sword, or on that side the Nails of your Hand are next.

2. The next is called the Terce Parade, or the Parade without the Sword; for here, contrary to the former, you put by the Thrust upon that side which is without the Sword, and as the other is termed the Quart, for as much as it is within your Sword, or on that side your Nails look to; so this is called Terce because it is without your Sword, or on that side the back of your Hand is to. Observe a little more, viz. when you are to hold your Hand or Nails in Terce, that you hold your Nails quite downward; And now to Parie these Five several ways.

You must do the first Parade in Quart, with the Point somewhat higher than the Hilt, viz. When you are standing to your Guard, if your Adversary offers to give a home Thrust on that side his Sword lieth, which I presume to be within your Sword, without disengaging and is the Simplest and plainest Thrust that can be given with the small Sword; yet frequently it surprizes a Man, I say, when so it is, that when you perceive your Adversary offer to give a home Thrust, which observe by keeping your Eye steady on the Hilt of his Sword; you must then immediately turn your Wrist with so small a Motion of the Arm, that it can scarcely be perceived, to your left-side; and by that means you may put by his Sword, with the Fort of yours upon the Left-side, keeping the Point of your Sword after the Parade towards his Right-shoulder; you may in putting by your Adversaries Sword use a little beat or Spring towards the Ground, by which you will more certainly disappoint him immediately bringing your Sword to its right posture again, and by, this way of Parying you may have the luck to Spring or Beat your Adversaries Sword out of his Hand.

The second Parade in Quart is with the Point sloping towards your Adversaries Right-thigh, and as tho' without it, in this manner;

When you perceive your Adversary is thrusting with your Sword, turn the Nails of your Sword-hand in Quart, with a full stretched Arm, and your Hand as high as your Face, and when you do this, slope your Point to the lowness of your Adversaries Thigh; and by that means, with the Fort of your Sword, on the Feeble of his, put by his Thrust, always observing to Parie with the Fort of your Sword, and not the Feeble, lest your Adversary having the stronger Arm, force upon you the Thrust in spite of all you can do.

The first Parade in Terce, or without the sword, the Point a little higher than the Hilt, must be thus managed, viz. Perceiving your Adversary giving in the Thrust without your Sword; take notice immediately to turn your Wrist with some small motion of the Arm, as in the first Parie in Quart, till your Nails, be in Terce, and so Parie his Thrust, Remembring in this to keep the Point of your Sword, after you have Paried him towards your Adversaries Left-shoulder, as in the first Parade in Quart, you are to keep it towards his Right.

This Parade is most effectually done with a Spring, to put by the Sword or gain an advantage of disarming your Adversary.

The second Parade in Terce, is called that within the Sword bearing a sloping Point towards your Adversaries Thigh, and as though within it. This observe to do when you perceive your Adversary giving in his Thrust without, or below your Sword, as it were at your Arm-pit, immediately letting the Point of your Sword sink as low as his Thigh, turning your Nails quite round to your Right-side, until they are from you, keeping your Hand as high as your Head, and so put by the Thrust on your Right-side; and when you are Parading, let your Head be close as if it were under your Arm; and this preserves your Face from your Adversaries scattering or Counter-Temps Thrusts.

Thus having shewn you the Defensive part, I shall now proceed to the Offensive, or how you may offend your Adversary when necessity requires it; but before I directly enter upon it, let me speak some thing of the Counter-caveating Parade; though some there are who refuse to use it, yet it is the safest of all.

The Counter caveating Parade, &c.

When you observe your Adversaries Thrust coming home within your Sword, then immediately slope your Point, and bring it up again with a quick Motion on the other side of your Adversaries, and Parie his Thrust without your Sword, that he intended, to give within your Sword, holding your Nails neither in Terce nor in Quart, but so hold them as when you presented your Sword; and observe further to do this, Parade with a Spring, and if you perceive he is about to give in his Thrust without your Sword, instantly slope your Point, and bring it up again with a quick Motion upon the inside of his Sword, and so Parie his Thrust, that was to be given without your Sword, within your Sword, and if you do this very quick you will rarely be hit with a home Thrust; and in this Parade there is great advantage, because by it all Feints, which in other Parades cannot be so well noted or shunned, are by this baffled and Confounded.

Lessons Offensive. 1. Of Approaching or Advancing.

Observe here; (when you are standing to your Guard, and your Adversary without your measure, so that without Approaching you cannot reach him) that you lift your Right-foot about a Foot Forward, and presently let your Left-foot follow close by the Ground, your Left-knee a little bowed, taking notice at the end of every step, that your Feet be at the same equal distance as when you first presented your Sword, or if in any thing you vary, let it be in bringing them something nearer; and so your Elong will come as much nearer to your Adversary as you brought your Left-foot nearer to your Right: Always then remember to redouble this Step, or any other that is to be used on this Occasion till you think your Adversary is within your measure. This step must be always made on plain Ground, lest you Trip and fall, which is very dangerous; but if it be on rugged uneven Ground, there is another suitable to it, called the Double Step, after this manner;

In the first place throw your Left-foot before your Right, (which may be done, by raising your Body a little on your Right-foot) about a Foot, then bring your Right-foot forward again, as far before your Left, as when you presented your Sword; these two Motions must be done immediately after the other, or else doing of this Step will appear ungraceful; and here you must keep a thin Body as possible, because the throwing your Left foot before your Right, lays your Body open, and so redouble this step, as the former, according to the distance you are from your Adversary, till you approach within his measure.

Lesson 2. Of Retiring.

This may be done three ways, first with the single Step, the same way you approach with it, only whereas in approaching with the single Step you lift your Right-foot first, here you must lift your Left-foot first, and the rest observe, as in the Approach with the single Step.

The second is, that with the double Step, and is done the same way as in the Advance, only in approaching you throw your Left-foot before Right, when in retiring you must throw your Right-foot backward behind your Left; and the rest is done as in Advancing with the double Step.

The third is done by a sudden jump backwards on the strait Line, with both your Feet in the Air at once, but you must lift your Right-foot first, and after your jump is done, stand to your Guard again, unless you find occasion to redouble your jump to be farther out of reach.

Lesson 3. Of giving in the Thrust.

To Thrust or make an Elong, observe (when you stand to your Guard, and your Adversary be within your Measure) that your Sword be as you please, either within or without your Adversaries Sword, and suppose within, then stretch out your Right-arm, and Step forward with your Right-foot as far as may be, keeping the Point strait forwards, and let the Motion of your Arm begin a thought before you move your Foot, so that the Thrust may be given home before your Adversary can hear your Foot touch the Ground; and when you are at your full stretch, keep your Left-hand stretched, and ever observe to keep a close Left-foot, which must be done by keeping your Left-heel and broad side of your Foot close to the Ground, without any drawing it after you, for keeping a close Foot is one of the chiefest things to be observed in this Science. When you give in your Thrust throw your Left-hand behind you, or so place it on your Left-side, that your Sword and both your Arms may make a strait Line from your Adversary. This must be when you design not to make use of your Left-hand for a Parade, but if you do, then in the very time of giving in your Thrust, throw your Left-arm forward as far as you can, without putting the rest of your Body into disorder, turning the Palm from you, by turning your Thumb down, and your little Fingers up, and so Parie your Adversaries Thrust, if you find he will Thrust, upon the same time you make your Thrust, always remembring when you Thrust within the Sword, to do it with your Nails in Quart or upwards, and Quart well your Hand and Shoulder; but when a Thrust is made without the Sword, then give it in with your Nails in Terce or downwards, and keep your Hilt much lower than your Point, and your Head as clear as may be from you Adversaries Sword.

Take notice in all Lessons in which you do not first secure or bind your Adversaries Sword, that you are to Thrust close by the Feeble of his Sword, with the Fort of yours. But there is a difference when you first secure your Adversaries Sword, for after your securing or binding, you quit his Sword, and give a strait home Thrust, without touching it, after it is bound.

In these Rules there is great advantage, as in the Quarting of your Hand, when you Thrust within, the Sword, preserves them from your Adversaries Counter-Temps Thrusts in the Face; so likewise does your Thrusting close by the Feeble of the Sword, and keeping your Hilt lower than the Point, when you Thrust without the Sword, as also the holding of your Head to the contrary side your Adversaries Sword is on, preserve you from Counter-Temps, ever observing as a general Rule; to keep your Head on the contrary side of your Adversaries Sword, on what side soever you Thrust, for this will frequently preserve your Face from being hit.

Lesson 4. Of Caveating or Disengaging.

In this case, when your Sword is presented within your Adversaries Sword, and you would have it without (keeping your Nails in Quart) slope your Point so low that you may bring it up under the out-side of his. This must be done with the Wrist, and not any Motion of the Arm, because when you Disengage, if the Arm move, your body would be too much discovered; so that your Adversary would have an advantage to give in his Thrust, which he could not do if only your Wrist moved, and this must be done with a sudden Motion; and by this you may learn to slip your Adversaries Sword at pleasure.

Lesson 5. Feinting or Falsifying

Of these, there are several kinds, and the first retreat on is the Ordinary single Feint; When you are on your Guard, and within your Adversaries Sword, disengage and make your Feint without, which you must do with a beat of your Right-foot against the Ground, just as you disengage, and your Sword on the out-side of your Adversaries, and immediately after, if you perceive him answer your Feint, and offer to Parie, disengage again, and give him the Thrust within the Sword.

Lesson 6. The Double Feint.

There is a difference between this and the single Feint; for in the single one you must make two Motions, viz. With the first you make your Feint, and with the next you give in your Thrust, unless you make your Feint on that side your Sword lyeth, which may be done without disengaging, and is the simplest of all others in all single Feints, it must be given in upon the side your Sword was before you made your Feint; But in the double Feint you are to make three Motions, and the Thrust (unless when you make your first Motion on that side your Sword was presented) is given in on the other side, and not on the side the Sword was just before you began to make your Feint; and to play this, there are two ways, viz. When you are within Measure, you must play it one way, and without Measure another way.

As to the first, your Sword being presented within your Adversaries Sword, then disengage and make your first Motion without his Sword, to stand a Thought on it to try whether he will answer you, by offering to proceed to the Parade; if he do not answer, it is useless, but if he do, then presently make your second Motion within his Sword, and your third Motion without it, by giving the Thrust; both these Motions must be done with admirable quickness; at every Motion give a beat with your Foot, and disengage; turning your Nails in Quart.

If you are without distance, make a Motion to see if he will answer your Feint, and if he do begin again, make your first Motion, as within distance, approaching at the same time, and so your second and third.

There is a contrary to these, that is to be observed when your Adversary makes use of them against you, Then you must make use either of the Counter-caveating Parade, or keep your Sword Point immoveable towards his Face that opposes you, your Arm as much stretched out as possible; and when you do so you must recover your Body, by drawing your Right foot close to your Left, stand as it were on Tip-toe, and if for all this your Adversary give a home Thrust, then you must Counter-temps him in the Face, and Parie his Thrust with your Left-hand; or if you perceive him make variety of Feints, then upon every one of them make a half Thrust, which will oblige him to betake himself to the Parade, and so when you please you may take the pursuit, or when he makes variety of Feints, give a plain home Thrust, as smart as may be, and endeavour to defend your self from Counter-temps with your Left-hand, and to prevent them, it is always in this Case best when you give a Thrust, to use your Left-hand.

Lesson 7. The Single Feint at the Head.

Being within distance you may present your Sword within or without your Opponents Sword, making a Feint or Motion at his Face, if your Sword be presented without, by a little stretching out your Right-Arm, your Nails in Quart, and when you make the Motion, give a little beat with your Right-foot, and if the Feint be answered, then immediately give in your Thrust at his Arm-pit your Head under your Sword-arm, your Left-hand held before you, with the Palm of it looking towards your Right-side, and that part of your Arm, from the Points of your Fingers to your Elbow, must stand in a manner strait upwards, which posture you must ever observe when you give in this Thrust, because in doing it, it defends you from the Thrust of your Adversary, if it be above, and without your Sword; and you may at the same time make a Motion at his Face.

Lesson 8. Of the double Feint at the Head.

Being within distance, make your first Motion or Feint, as before, at the Face, your second Motion low without your Adversaries Sword, towards his belly; and with the third, give a Thrust without, and above his Sword, your Nails in Quart, marking every motion with your Head, Hands and Feet; and when you make your second Motion, hold your Hand as in the single Feint, and when you give in your Thrust above Sword, you must Quart your Head well, because you must give it in with your Nails in Quart; and by this means your Body will be kept secure within your Sword, when in Terce it would ly open, especially to Counter-temps.

There is a Parying the contrary, either with the Counter-caveating Parade, or by answering every Motion, by what means you will fall to Parie your Adversaries with the first Parade in Terce.

Lesson 9. Containing the manner of the Feint at the Head on the True Parade.

The contrary to the second Parade is this, and to do it you must make your Motion at your Adversaries Face, and if you imagine he intends to Parie you with the second Counter-caveating Parade, make round his Sword, as it were going a circle about it, and so give a Thrust at his Arm-pit, and with your Left-hand avoid Counter-temps, and being within distance, approach with your first Motion, and in so doing you Caveat his Sword and shun his Parade, or if your Adversary follows your Sword, you may make two or three circles till you find a fit time to let in your Thrust.

Lesson 10. Of the Low Feint.

When you intend to proceed in this, you must have your Sword without your Adversaries and when it is so, make directly the Second Motion of the double Feint at the Head, and give in the Thrust above, and when you are without distance, make your approach with the Feint, or first Motion; and make in your Thrust with the second. And this may be Paryed, by answering every Motion, or using the Counter-caveating Parade.

The contrary to it, is, when your Adversary is making his low Feint, to take time, and give in the Thrust above his Sword, your Nails in Quart.

Lesson 11. Of Battery.

This is a kind of a Beat from whence it derives its name, and therefore when you play it you must present your Sword either without or within your Adversaries, if within, and he within your Measure, then keep your Sword half a Foot from his, and when you intend to play, Strike a small stroak on the Edg, and Feeble of your Sword on the Edg, and Feeble of his, and at the same Moment give a Beat with your Foot, which will surprize your Adversary, if not well skilled; if it does not, nor that he answers you by offering to Parie, give a strait home Thrust at his Right-Pap, as you give in a plain Thrust within the Sword, moving the Sword only with your Wrist, and thereby keeping your Body close. If your Adversary offers to answer your stroak, and go to the Parade, then your best way is to slip him, and give in a Thrust without, and above the Sword, or when you perceive him going to Parade, then suddenly slip and make a double Feint on the other side, and Thrust on that side you gave the Beat.

In the contrary of this Parie, with the Counter-caveating Parade, or meet his stroak, and make a half Thrust, which will force him to the Parade; and so you may pursue.

Lesson 12. Of Volt Coupe.

In this observe to present your Sword within your Adversaries, he being within your Measure; then make a Feint at the Face your Nails in Quart, and upon this give a Beat with your Foot, and carry your Hand well Quarted, and if by offering to Parie, he answers this, and that high, then Thrust at the Belly, your Nails in Terce, and keep your Left-hand as a Guard from Counter-temps; if by Parying low, you are disappointed of this advantage, then after you have made your Feint, instead of a Thrust in the Belly, slip his Parade, and give the Thrust without, and above the Sword; and when you are within distance approach with the first Motion: If your Sword be presented without your Adversaries, you must first then disengage.

The contrary to this is either to Parie his Sword with the second Parade in Quart, or to take time and give your Thrust the way he was to give it in upon you, at the instant he makes his Motion at your Face, or you may pass without his Thrust.

Lesson 13. Of Binding your Adversaries Sword.

This is the securest Play, and chiefest Mistery in the Art of Fencing, wherefore to do it after you have presented your Sword, either within or without your Adversaries, on a sudden over-lap six or seven Inches of his with eight or ten of yours; and this is sufficient to secure it; but this must be always done with the Edg of the Sword, whether you present it within or without, and immediately after you have bound it, give a Thrust strait home. In this case, always observing to keep a close Left-foot, also to give a Beat with your Foot, and to bind with a Spring, viz. Press your Sword almost to the Ground, but stay not with it, but immediately bring it up again and then give the Thrust; and this prevents Counter-temps, and the best Parade against it is, the Counter caveating Parade, and if your Adversary flips your Sword, you must endeavour to bind him within or without the Sword again. You may also put upon him the double or single Feint, or having bound your Sword without, you may give in your Thrust, as in playing the single Feint at the Head.

Lesson 14. Of the Flancanade.

To do this, when you have presented within your Adversaries Sword, over-lap it with 12 Inches of yours, within eight of his, and give in the Thrust on his Right-flank, on the other side of the Sword, and beneath it your Nails side-ways, throwing forward your Left-hand and turning the Palm from you to keep off Counter-temps in the Belly, and in Thrusting let your Hilt be lower than the Point, which secures his Sword; and note when you lap over to do it with the flat, and not with the Edg as when you bind.

And thus much may serve for an introduction to the learner in the Science of Defence, and therefore for other Lessons, not here set down, I refer him to a Master.



Of HAWKING.

Of Hawks there are two sorts.

The Long-Winged Hawks.

Faulcon and Tiercle-gentle, Gerfaulcon and Jerkin. Saker and Sakaret. Lanner and Lanneret. Barbary Falcon. Merlin and Jack. Hobby and Jack.

The Short Winged Hawks.

Eagle and Iron. Goshawk and Tiercle. Sparrow-Hawk and Musket.

There are others too of inferiour sort, as,

Ring-Tail. Raven and Buzzard. Forked Kite. Hen-driver, &c.

And as the Age of these Hawks is, so we name them, as

The first Year a Soarage. The second Year an Intermewer. The third Year a White Hawk. The fourth Year a Hawk of the first Coat.

Thus much for their Names, now we come to speak of the Flights of these Hawks; which are these,

The Faulcon-Gentle, for Partridge or Mallard. Gerfaulcon, will fly at the Herne. Saker, at the Crane or Bittern. Lanner, at the Partridge, Pheasant or Choofe Barbary Faulcon, at the Partridge only. Merlin and Hobby, at the Lark, or any small Bird. Goshawk and Tiercle, at the Partridge, or Hare. Sparrow-Hawk, at the Partridge or Black-Bird.

And the

Musket, at the Bush.

Your Hawk watch, and keep from Sleep, continually carrying him upon your Fist, familiarly stroak him with a Wing of some Dead Fowl, or the like, and play with him; Accustom to gaze, and look in his Face with a Loving, Smiling, Gentle Countenance; and that will make him acquainted, and familiar with Men.

Having made him familiar, the next thing is to Bring him to the Lure, (which the Faulconer makes of Feathers and Leather, much like a Fowl, which he casts into the Air, and calls the Hawk to) which is after this manner. Set your Hawk on the Perch, unhood him and shew him some Meat within your Fist, call him by Chirping, Whistling, or the like, till he comes, then Feed him with it; if he comes not, let him Fast, and be sharp set: Short-winged Hawks are properly said to be called, not Lured. Make him bold, and acquainted with Men, Dogs, and Horses, and let him be eager and sharp-set, before you shew him the Lure, knowing his Luring Hours; and let both sides of the Lure, be garnished with warm and bloody Meat; let him likewise know your Voice well; so that being well acquainted with Voice, and Lure, the Hearing of the one, or sight of the other, makes him Obedient; which you must reward by Feeding, or punish by Fasting. But before Luring (or any Flight) it is requisite to Bathe your Hawk in some quiet and still shallow Brook, or for want of that in a Large Bason, shallow Tub, or the like, lest being at liberty, you lose your Hawk, (whose Nature requires such Bathing) and make him range. Now to make him know his Lure, is thus: Give your Hawk to another, and having loosned in readiness his Hood-strings, and fastened a Pullet to the Lure, go a little distance, cast it half the length of the string about your Head, still Luring with your Voice, unhood your Hawk, and throw it a little way from him; if he stoop and seize, let his plum the Pullet, and feed on it upon the Lure: Then take him and Meat on your Fist, Hood him and give him the Tiring of the Wing, or Foot of the said Pullet.

Having Manned and Lured your Hawk before you bring him to his Flight, one thing is to be observed and done, called in the Faulconers Dialect, Enseaming, which is to cleanse him from Fat, Grease, and Glut, know by his round Thighs, and full Meutings; and thus you may do it: In the Morning when you feed him, give him a bit or two of Hot-meat, and at Night very little or nothing. Then feed him Morning and Evening with a Rook, wash't twice till the Pinions be tender; then give a Casting of Feathers as his Nature will bear; and once in two or three dayes give him a Hens-neck well joynted and washt: Then a quick Train Pigeon every Morning; and after by these and his own Exercise, he has broken and dissolved the Grease, give him three or four Pellets of the Root of Sallandine, as big as a Garden Pease, steept in the Sirup of Roses; and you have done this part of your Duty.

To Enter your Hawks, for Partridge or Fowl, Lay an old Field Partridge in a Hole, covered with something, and fasten to it a small Creance (i.e. a Fine small long Line of strong and even-wound Packthread fastned to the Hawks Leash when first Lured,) and uncoupling your ranging Spaniels, pluck off the Covering of the Train Partridge and let it go, and the Hawk after it; and as soon as he has slain it, reward him well with it. And thus to make him fly at Fowl, feed him well with the Train of the Fowl you would have; doing afterwards as above.

The Fault of Hawks differ according to their Nature and Make. Long-Winged Hawks faults are thus helped. If he used to take stand, flying at the River, or in Champaign Fields, shun flying near Trees or Covert, or otherwise, let several Persons have Trains, and as he offers to stand, let him that's next cast out his Train, and he killing it reward him. And indeed you ought never to be without some live Bird or Fowl in your Bag, as Pigeon, Duck, Mallard, &c. If he be Froward and Coy; when he Kills, reward him not as usually, but slide some other Meat under him and let him take his pleasure on it; giving him some Feathers to make him scour and cast. If he be Wild, look not inward; but mind Check, (i.e. other Game, as Crows, &c. that fly cross him) then lure him back, and stooping to it, reward him presently.

The faults of Short-winged Hawks thus are helped. Sometimes the Goshawk and Sparrow-Hawks, will neither kill, nor fly the Game to Mark, but will turn Tail to it: Then encourage your Dogs to Hunt, cast a Train Partridge before your Hawk, make him seize it, and feed well upon it.

If a Hawk take a Tree, and will not fly at all, feed him then upon quick Birds, and make him foot them, and in the plain Champaign Fields unhood him, and rising up and down awhile let one cast out a Field Partridge before him, let him fly at it, and footing it, feed on it. If they be too fond of a Man, that after a stroke or two will not fly, be seldom familiar with him, and reward him not as he comes so improperly: Otherwise reward him well.

As for Mewing of Hawks, the best time for Long-winged Hawks is about the middle of April, and March for the Short-winged Hawks. There are two kinds of Mewings. 1. At the stock or stone; so called from its being low upon the Ground, free from Noise, Vermin or ill Air. 2. At large; so called from being in a high Room, with open Windows towards the North or North-East. The former is accounted the best Mewing. The Faulconer, before he Mews his Hawks, see if they have Lice, to Pepper and Scower them too. The best time to draw the Field Hawk from the Mew, is in June, and he will be ready to fly in August; the Hawks for the River in August, will be ready in September.

Cures for Hawks Diseases.

The Faulconer ought diligently to observe the Complexions of his Hawks Castings and Mewtings, to judge of their Maladies, an assured sign of knowing whether they are sick or distempered in this. Take your Hawk, turning up her Train, if you see her Tuel or Fundament swelleth, or looketh red; Or, if her Eyes or Ears be of a fiery Complexion, it is an infallible sign of her being not well and in good health; and then Scouring is necessary first; which is done by Aloes Cicatrine, about the quantity of a Pea wrapt up in her Meat; and this avoids Grease, and kills Worms too.

For the Cataract: Take one Scruple of washt Aloes finely beaten, and two Scruples of Sugar-candy, mix these together, and with a Quill blow it three or four times a day into your Hawks Eye.

Pantus or Asthma: Pour the Oyl of sweet Almonds into a Chickens Gut, well washt, and give it the Hawk: Or, scower him with Sallandine-Pellets, and Oyl of Roses, and then wash his meat in the Decoction of Coltsfoot.

Filanders or Worms: To prevent them, seeing your Hawk low and poor, give her once a month a Clove of Garlick. To cure or kill them; take half a dozen Cloves of Garlick, boil them very tender in Milk, dry the Milk out of them; put them into a Spoonful of the best Oyl of Olives, and having steept them all Night, give them both to your Hawk, when she has cast, in the morning: feed him not till two hours after, and then with warm meat, and keep him warm all that day.

Lice: Mail your Hawk in some Woollen Cloth, put between his Head and Hood a little Wool, and take a Pipe of Tobacco, put the little end in at the Tream, blow the smoak, and the Lice that escape killing, will creep into the Cloth: Probatum.

Formica: Take a little of the Gall of a Bull, and beating it with Aloes, anoint the Beak of the Hawk, Morning and Evening,

Frounce: Take the Powder of Allume, reduced to a Salve with strong Wine Vinegar, and wash her mouth with it; then take Juice of Lolium and Raddish, mixt with Salt, and anoint the Sore.

Apoplex: Gather the Herb Asterion, wash your Hawks meat with the Juice thereof when you feed him.

Wounds: Take the Juice of English Tobacco, or Mouse-ears, after you have sticht it up with a little Lint, bathe the place.



Of BOWLING.

The first and greatest Cunning to be observed in Bowling, is the right chusing your Bowl, which must be suitable to the Grounds you design to run on, thus: For close Alleys, your best choice is the Flat Bowl: 2. For open Grounds of Advantage, the Round-byassed-bowl. 3. For Green Swarths, that are plain and level, the Bowl that is Round as a Ball.

The next thing requires your Care is, the chusing out your Ground, and preventing the Windings, Hangings, and many turning Advantages of the same, whether it be in open wide places, as Bares & Bowling-greens, or in close Bowling-alleys.

Lastly, Have your Judgment about you to observe and distinguish the Risings, Fallings and Advantages of the Places where you Bowl: Have your Wits about you to avoid being rookt of your Money: And have your Understanding about you, to know your best Time and Opportunity for this Recreation; and finally a studious Care of your Words and Passions, and then Bowl away, and you may deserve, Well have you bowled indeed.

But methinks I cannot conclude here, without admiring how aptly a Bowling-green is by the Divine Quarles characterized, in the following Verses, thus,

Brave Pastime, Readers, to consume that day, Which without Pastime flies too swift away! See how they labour, as if Day and Night Were both too short to serve their loose Delight? See how their curved Bodies wreath, and skrue Such Antick Shapes as Proteus never knew: One rapps an Oath, another deals a Curse, He never better bowl'd, this never worse; One rubs his itchless Elbow, shrugs and laughs, The t'other bends his Beetle-brows, and chafes; Sometimes they whoop, sometimes the Stygian cryes, Send their black Santo's to the blushing Skies: Thus mingling Humours in a mad Confusion They make bad premisses and worse Conclusion.

Thus much for Bowling.



Of TENNIS.

This Recreation is of the Same Date for its Antiquity of Invention with Bowling, and for the Violence of its Exercise to be preferred before it. This Sport indeed is of so universal an Acceptance, that Majesty it self is pleased to design it its Recommendation, by tracking its laborious steps; and Princes and Lords admire it too for the most proper Recreation, to suit with Innocence, and true Nobility. Here the Body is briskly exercised more than ordinary, and inured in Agility and Nimbleness; this renders the Limbs flexible and mettlesom, and adapts them for the most Vigorous Enterprize.

Tennis and Baloon are sports which are play'd almost with the same Instruments; and therefore may be under one and the same Head: The first is a Pastime, used in close or open Courts, by striking a little Round Ball to and fro, either with the Palms of the hands (and then is called Pila palmaria in Latin) or else a Racket, made for the purpose, round with Net or Cat-gut, with a Handle: The other a strong and moving Sport in the open Fields with a great Ball of a double leather filled with Wind, and so driven to and fro with the strength of a Mans Arm, armed in a Brace of Wood. And thus much shall suffice to speak of the Baloon and Tennis; only let me desire you, let not this or any other Pastime disturb your Minds; divert you from the diligent and careful Prosecution of your lawful Business; or invite you to throw away your Time and Money too lavishly and idley; nor engage you in any Passion; that so you may not offend God, dislike your Neighbour, nor incomode your Self and Family in your Well-being and Felicity; and then you may recreate your self without Fear: And in this Recreation observe the ensuing Morality of

The Tennis-Court.

When as the Hand at Tennis Plays, And Men to Gaming fall, Love is the Court, Hope is the House, And Favour serves the Ball,

This Ball it self is due Desert, The Line that measure shows Is Reason whereon Judgment looks Where Players win and lose.

The Tutties are Deceitful Shifts, The Stoppers, Jealousy, Which hath Sir Argus hundred Eyes, Wherewith to watch and pry.

The Fault whereon Fifteen is lost, Is Want of Wit and Sense, And he that brings the Racket in Is Double Diligence.

But now the Racket is Free-will, Which makes the Ball rebound, And Noble Beauty is the Choice, And of each Game the Ground.

Then Racket strikes the Ball away, And there is Over-sight, A Bandy ho! the People cry, And so the Ball takes flight.

Now at the length Good-liking proves Content to be their Gain: Thus in the Tennis-Court, Love is A Pleasure mixt with Pain.



Of RINGING.

Whosoever would become an accurate Master of this excellent Art and Pleasure, and is very desirous to be esteemed an Elaborate and Ingenious Ringer, and be enrolled amongst that Honoured Society of College Youths; I must beg leave to instruct him before he enters the Bell-free, in these ensuing short Rules; which he must strictly observe, viz.

1. That as all Musick consists in these six plain Notes, La Sol Fa Mi Re Ut; so in Ringing, a Peal of Bells is Tuned according to these Principles of Musick: For as each Bell takes its Denomination from the Note it Sounds, by its being flatter or deeper, as, First, or Treble, second, third, fourth, &c. as they are in number to ten or twelve Bells, the last being called the Tenor; So must they successively strike one after another both Fore-stroke and Back-stroke, in a due Musical time or Equi-distance, to render their Harmony the more Pleasant, and to make the Young Practitioner the better informed to observe the Life of Musick, and indeed of true Ringing, Time; and therefore is called, Round-ringing.

2. As in Musick, so in Ringing there are three Concords, so called from their Melodious Harmony and Agreement, which Principally are these; Thirds, viz. 1 3, 2 4, &c. Fifths 1 5, 2 6, &c. Eights 1 8, 2 9, 3 10, &c. and these are the more pleasant according to the Number of Bells they are struck on, and as they are struck, whether separately or mutually. From hence Changes are made, which is only a Changing place of one Note with another, so variously, as Musick may be heard a thousand ways of Harmony; which being so obvious to common Observation, I shall not go about to demonstrate; for that if two may be varied two ways, surely by the Rule of Multiplication, a Man may easily learn how many times 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, or 12 Bells Notes may be varied; which will run almost ad infinitum.

3. For the better observing the Ringing of Changes or Rounds, these three things are to be noted.

1. The Raising true in Peal.

2. Ringing at a low Compass; and

3. Ceasing in true Peal; all which three are the most essential Parts to render a Practitioner Excellent.

1. For Raising a Peal of Bells true, the modern and best Practice recommends the swiftest and quickest possible, every one taking Assistance to raise his Bell, as its going requires: the lesser Bells as Treble, &c. being by main strength held down in their first Sway (or pull) to get time for the striking of the rest of larger Compass; and so continued to be strong pulled till Frame-high, and then may be slackned: The bigger, as Tenor, &c. must be pincht or checkt overhead, that the Notes may be hard to strike roundly and hansomely. Observe that all the Notes strike round at one Pull: I do not mean the first; but 'tis according to the Bigness and Weightiness of your Bells: However in raising a Peal, do not let one Bell strike before the rest, or miss when the rest do; this is contrary to the Strict Rules of true Ringing: And this is called Round-ringing. Now if you design to raise a Peal of Bells for Changes, you ought to raise them to a Set-pull, as the most proper for commanding the Notes, and he who is not well skilled to manage his Bell at a Set-pull, will be apt to drop or overturn it, be in a Wood, and fruitlessly toil and moil himself. Therefore in practising the Setting of a Bell, cast your Eye about the other Bell-Ropes, during your managing your own, that you may accustom your self to manage it according to the Change.

2. For Ringing at a low Compass, is thus observed: By keeping a due punctum or beat of time, in the successive striking one after another of every Bell; the best Ringer being set to the Treble, that may guide and direct the rest of the Notes in their due Measure.

3. For Ceasing a Peal of Bells; let them fall gradually from a set Peal, checking them only at Sally, till the low Compass renders it useless; and when so low, that for want of Compass, they can scarce strike at Back-stroak; then let the Treble-Ringer stamp, as a Signal, to notify, that the next time they come to strike at the Fore-stroke, to check them down, to hinder their striking the Back-stroke; yet Fore-stroke continued, till brought to a neat and graceful Chime, which may be the Finis to that Peal.

Thus much in short, for Raising, Round-ringing, and Ceasing a Peal of Bells; I come next to lead you forth into that spacious Field of Variety of Changes, and present you with Instructions that may be meerly necessary, for the right Understanding the several kinds of them.

Now in Ringing Changes, two of our best Senses, are to be employed, viz. The Ear, and the Eye: The Ear, hearing when to make a Change; and the Eye directing the Bell in making it: The Bells being the Object of the Former, and the Bell-ropes the Object of the Latter: And to render both the Eye and Ear Useful in Ringing Changes, these Five things are throughly to be Understood.

First, Endeavour to distinguish the Notes of a Peal of Bells, one from another while Ringing.

Secondly, Learn to apprehend the places of the Notes.

Thirdly, Understand the Precedency of Notes.

Fourthly, How to make a Change in Ringing.

Fifthly, and Lastly, How to Practice the four fore-going Notions, in General.

1. To know the Notes of a Peal of Bells asunder (which is easy in Round-Ringing) in Changes is thus: Get the skill of Tuning them with your Voice, by imitating their Notes while Ringing. Or if you are acquainted, either by your self or Friend, with some Singing-Master, or one who has skill in Singing, get him to instruct you in the true Pitch of any Note, and aid your distinguishing them; otherwise you may be puzzled in this, to know which is Treble, which Second, &c. as in 532641, &c.

2. To know the places of the Notes, is no way better to be apprehended than thus: The Practitioner ought to form an Idea in his Head of the place of each Note, whether in a direct Line, or Obliquely; and representing them by a Figure in his Mind, see (as it were) by the Eye of the Understanding, each stroke of the Bell, as the Treble, 1. Second 2. Third 3. &c. so that as the Ear is to direct him, when to make the Change, so a right Apprehension of the Motion and Places of the Notes, ought to be a means to guide his Ear.

3. The Precedency of Notes, is of a very obvious Demonstration; thus: In Ringing Changes the Fore and Back-stroke, successively following one another, are properly said to Lye behind one another, according to their places of striking. Or in short, in 12345, the Note that leads either at Fore or Back-stroke, is said to Lye before the rest, and the last to be behind, As the 2 is said to lye behind the 1, so it lyeth before the 3, as the 3 lyeth behind 2, so it lyeth before the 4. And so of as many as are Rung.

4. The manner of making a Change, is very common, and needs no particular, but general Rule; That it is made by moving one Note into anothers place, Up and Down, as Occasion requires; but usually made by two Notes standing one next the other, as hereafter may be observed.

Lastly, In your Ringing Changes, these two things (in which consists the practick part of this Art) are to be rightly considered, First, Readily to know which two Bells are to make the succeeding Change. And Secondly, to consider (if you are concerned in it) what Bell you are to follow in making it. To understand which the more perfectly, you must imprint in your Memory, the Method of the Changes prick'd in Figures, and to be expert likewise in setting them down divers ways, and making any Figure a Hunt at Pleasure; and thus without pausing or hesitating to consider the Course, you may throughly understand the Methods; the Four preceding Observations being first perfectly understood.

There are two ways of Ringing Changes, viz. By Walking them, as the Artists stile it; or by Whole Pulls or Half-pulls: Walking is, when in one Change the Bells go round, Four, Six, or Eight times; which is a most incomparable way to improve a Young Practitioner, by giving him time to consider, which two Bells do make the next succeeding Change, and in making it, what Bell each is to follow; so that by this means (by his Industry) he may be capable of Ringing at Whole pulls; which is, when the Bells go round in a Change at Fore and Back-stroke; and a New Change is made every time they are pulled down at Sally: This was an Ancient Practice, but is now laid aside, since we have learnt a more advantageous way of hanging our Bells, that we can manage a Bell with more ease at a Set-pull than formerly: So that Ringing at Half-Pulls is now the modern general Practice; that is, when one Change is made at Fore-stroke, another at Back-stroke, &c.

He that Rings the slowest Hunt, ought to notify the extream Changes; which is, when the Leading Bell is pulling down, that he might make the Change next before the extreme, he ought to say, Extreme. By this means, betwixt the Warning and the Extreme there will be one compleat Change.

Of Changes, &c.

There are two kinds of Changes, viz. Plain Changes, and Cross-peals; which Terms do denote the Nature of them; for as the first is stiled Plain, so are its methods easy; and as the second is called Cross, so are its Methods cross and intricate: The First have a general Method, in which all the Notes (except Three) have a direct Hunting-Course, moving gradually under each other, plainly and uniformly: Plain are likewise termed single Changes, because there is but one single Change made in the striking all the Notes round, either at Fore or Back-stroke. But the Second is various, each Peal differing in its Course from all others; and in Cross-peals as many changes may be made as the Notes will permit. In short, as to Plain-changes, I shall not dilate on them here, it being so plainly understood by every one that lately have rung a Bell in peal; all therefore I shall add is this, that any two Notes that strike next together may make a Change, which may be done either single or double, as you list. The single, by changing two Notes; and the double, by changing Four, i.e. Two to make one Change and two another; which is however called One double Change, and not two Changes; because tis made in striking the Notes of the Bells once round.

Of Cross-peals.

Or in these Cross-peals we must Observe the prime Movement, which sets the whole Frame a going, and that is called the Hunt, which hath one constant Uniform Motion throughout the Peal, and different from that of the other Notes; and indeed by this the whole Course of the Peal is Steered. This keeps a continual motion through the other Notes, i.e. from leading, to strike behind, and from thence again to Lead; which is called one compleat Course.

Some Peals upon five Bells consist of single Courses, wherein are ten Changes, and twelve Courses make the Peal. Others upon five consist of double Courses, wherein are twenty Changes to every Course, and six Courses in the Peal.

Upon six Bells there are likewise single and double Courses, viz. Twelve Changes in every single Course, as in Grandsire-bob, &c. and Twenty-four Changes in every double Course, as in College Bobs, that being the first Change of every Course, wherein the Hunt leaves Leading: In short, judiciously observe the first Course of any Cross-peal, and you will soon see the general Method of the whole Peal: All Courses in Cross-Peals agreeing in these following three Respects. First, In the Motion of the Hunt. Secondly In the motion of the rest of the Notes: And Thirdly, In making the Changes. Which three things being well (to omit Instance of Demonstration) and narrowly observed, will be very helpful both in pricking and ringing Courses; the first and third for directing you in Pricking them, and the first and second in Ringing them.

There is one Difficulty to be removed e're I can come to prick down those Peals I design to be the Subject of the Discourse of this Epitome, and that is, How to make the first Changes at the beginning of each Peal; I mean to make the Second, Third, Fourth, &c. whole Hunts; and this In short is thus directed: In any Cross-peal the whole Hunt may move either up or down at the beginning; and the Motion of the whole Hunt, in the first Course of each of the following Peals will direct the first Motion of any Cross-Hunt, and by Consequence of making the first Changes in that Peal. Taking along with you this Observation.

That whensoever the first Change of any Peal happens to be single, it must be made at the back-stroke, to prevent cutting Compass, and the like when a double Change happens first in a Peal of Triples and doubles: But when it happens, that the first Change is made at the Back-stroke, then Consequently the Bells at the end of the Peal will come round at a Fore-stroke Change.

I shall omit speaking to any of the several Peals on four or five Bells; for that in my opinion little Musick is heard, though much Practical Observation is made, from them; and therefore shall begin with Grandsire-bob, as having mentioned it but just before in my general View I made of Cross-peals.

Grandsire Bob.

Bob Changes take their Name from this; viz. When the Treble leads in the Second and Third, and the Fifth and Sixth's places, then they are called Bob-changes. In Ringing which you are to observe these Rules, viz.

Whatsoever Bells you follow when you Hunt up, the same Bells in the same order you must follow in Hunting down; as in the Changes here prickt, where the Treble hunting up First follows Second, then Fourth, and then Sixth; when it comes behind, First follows Second, in hunting down Fourth; and when hunting up follows Sixth in the same Order: The like may be observed in Ringing any other Bell, with this Difference betwixt the whole Hunt and the rest, viz. Every time the Whole hunt leaves the Treble's place, and hunts up, it followeth different Bells, from what it did at its first hunting up.

In the ensuing Peal here prickt are Eighteen-score Changes, wanting one. It may be Rung with any Hunts, and begin the Changes Triple and Double: You may make your extream at the first, second, or third single Bob; or the first, second, or third time, that the half and Quarter-hunts dodge behind; the single must be made behind in either of these.

123456 bob. 134256 143265 126435 156423 312465 142356 214365 514632 321645 162345 241635 541362 236154 124536 163254 426153 453126 263514 125463 462513 435216 625341 136524 645231 342561 652431 152643 135642 654321 324651 564213 156234 563412 236415 546123 153462 536142 263145 451632 165324 bob. 351624 621354 415362 163542 135426 315264 612345 143526 132546 165243 bob. 136452 153246 135264 162534 134562 bob. 152364 312546 615243 315426 163425 321456 651423 351246 125634 234165 564132 532164 136245 126543 243615 546312 523614 132654 426351 453621 256341 162453 462531 435261 265431 123564 164235 645213 342516 624513 125346 654123 324156 642153 146325 561432 231465 461235 152436 bob. 516342 213645 416325 154263 164352 153624 126354 143652 156342 123645 bob. 145623 146532 513624 216354 134625 bob. bob. 531264 261534 316452 154632 164523 352145 625143 361542 325416 652413 635124 145362 146253 234561 564231 653214 bob. 142635 243651 546321 562341 154326 426315 453612 526431 124365 462135 435162 254613 145236 641253 341526 245163 142563 123456 614523 314256 421536 ====== 165432 132465 412356 124653

Thus much for the Grandsire-bob; I shall next collect what London Peals I think most Harmonious, and agreeable, without troubling my self to go to Oxford, or Nottingham, or Redding, to enquire after their different Methods of Peals, as indeed needless; and my reason is this: Because I think the same Rules for Peals that are suitable to our London Genius, may challenge likewise an Acceptance amongst other Cities; provided their Steeples are furnished with as many, and as good Bells, and their Belfree's with as ingenious and elaborate Ringers as here in London.

I shall begin then with Peals upon six Bells, and herein in order, measure out the Delights on Peals from Six to Eight Bells, and setting out early, present you with

The Morning Exercise.

Doubles and singles. The whole Hunt is the Treble, which Hunteth up into the Second, Third, and Fourth places, lying twice in each; and then lyeth still in the Sixth place, having dodged behind, and makes another, and then Hunts down as it Hunted up, and then leads four times. Observing the manner of its Pricking, and its Practice, may excuse any further defining it.

123456 265143 163425 125643 143256 213465 265134 125634 134265 213456 265143 165243 134256 231465 261534 165234 124365 231456 216543 156243 124356 136524 234165 216534 156234 142365 136542 234156 126543 142356 bob. 243516 126534 154326 135624 243561 162543 154362 146532 135642 245316 162534 bob. 146523 245361 153426 bob. 132465 254631 164352 153462 145632 132456 254613 164325 145623 123465 256431 bob. 152643 123456 256413 163452 152634 143265

This will go a 120 Changes, and by making Bobs, 240, 360, 270.

A Cure for Melancholy.

Doubles and Singles.

I should think it needless to explain the method of prick'd Peals, and give a large Definition of them, when their plain Demonstration might be sufficient; However, as the Old Phrase is, Because 'tis usual, something shall be said of this too.

The Treble is the whole Hunt, as in the former, and leads four times, and lyeth behind as many, and twice in every other place; the two Bells in the 3d. and 4th. places continue dodging, when the Treble moves out of the 4th. place, until it comes down there again, and then the two hindmost dodge, till the Treble displaceth them; who maketh every double Change, except when it lieth behind, and then the double is on the four first, and on the four last when it leads. Every single (except when the Treble lies there) is in the 5th. and 6th. places; or if possessed by the Treble, then in the 3d. and 4th. places: Every Bell (except the Treble) lies four times in the Second place: But enough; a word is enough to the Wise. See it here Deciphered.

123456 452136 165432 126534 156432 213465 452163 126543 bob. 213456 451236 143652 165423 231465 451263 143625 154263 165432 231456 415236 bob. 154236 234165 415263 134652 152463 132654 234156 145236 134625 152436 132645 243516 145263 136254 245316 142536 162345 143526 136245 243561 142563 162354 143562 245361 163245 bob. 124365 423561 156423 163254 134526 124356 425361 156432 134562 123465 423516 bob. 125634 123456 425316 165423 125643 156423

This will go Six-score Changes, but by making bobs, it will go 240, 360, or 720. The Bob is a double Change at the leading of the Treble, in which the Bell in the 4th. place lyeth still.

London Nightingale.

Doubles and Singles.

The Whole-hunt is the Treble, who lyeth four times before, and as many behind, and twice in every other place: The two hind Bells continue dodging, when the Treble moves down out of the Fifth place, till he comes there again, the Bell in the Fourth place lying still all the while: When the two hind Bells aforesaid leave dodging, then the two First Bells take their dodging places, till dispossessed again, by the return of the said Hind Bells to their dodging; and then they Cease.

123456 425316 162534 142365 164532 213465 452136 124356 bob. 213456 452163 153624 124365 165423 231465 451236 153642 165432 231456 451263 bob. 136245 234165 415236 156324 136254 143652 234156 415263 156342 163245 143625 243516 145236 163254 bob. 423516 145263 134562 146352 243561 154236 134526 125634 146325 243561 154263 bob. 125643 423561 135462 152634 132465 245361 126543 135426 152643 132456 425361 126534 123465 245316 162543 142356 164523 123456

This will go 120, and by making Bobs, 240, 360, or 720.

College Bobs.

In this Bob, when the Treble leaves the two Hind Bells, they dodge till it comes there again, and till the Treble gives way for the dodging again of the said two Hind Bell, the two First Bells dodge, but after Cease dodging, when the two Hind Bells dodge.

123456 243651 421635 152364 165324 214365 426315 246153 135246 bob. 124356 462135 241635 153246 156342 213465 641253 426153 231456 642135 462513 126543 132546 324165 461253 &c. 125634 135264 321456 416235 165432 234165 142653 bob. 164235 124365 243615 412635 156423 162453 123456 426351 146253 246315 142635 143526 143652 423651 416253 bob. bob. 246351 146235 134562 134625 423615 412653

Another.

Here, every Bell, when it comes to lead, makes a dodge before, then after one Change, it lyeth still; after it has made another dodge, it moves up into the 4th. place, where twice it lyeth still; and down again; except the Treble happens to dodge with it in the 4th. place, then it hunts up behind. When the Treble moves down out of the 3d. place, the two Bells in the 3d. and 4th. place continue there, till the Treble comes up thither again, the two hind Bells dodging in the mean time.

123456 265314 132564 135426 164352 214365 625341 315246 124356 263514 351426 153246 146532 213465 236154 534162 152364 bob. 231645 321645 351462 164523 326145 236145 534126 125634 231654 321654 &c. 126543 146253 326154 312564 153624 142635 362415 135246 bob. 162453 634251 315264 135642 164235 124365 364215 132546 123456 632451 135264 153462 146325 623541 312546 bob. bob.

Both these bobs will go One Hundred and Twenty Changes, and by making of bobs, they will go, 240, 360, or 720. And thus with little Variation, there are other bobs may be made after the same manner, and afford as Admirable Musick, as possibly can be made on Bells. I shall therefore hasten to finish this days Work, only first present you with this one more called,

The City Delight:

Doubles and Singles.

The whole Hunt is the Treble, and lieth as before in the Nightingale: When the Treble moves out of the 3d. place, the Singles are made in the 2d. and 3d. place, till the Treble repossesses his 3d. place, and then behind, till it moves up again out of the 3d. place. The two hind Bells dodge, when the Treble moves out of the 4th. place, till he returns again; the Bell in the 4th. place lying still all the while.

123456 264351 154362 162534 143265 265413 bob. 162543 143256 213465 256413 153426 126534 134265 213456 265143 153462 126543 134256 231465 256143 231456 251634 156234 124365 135642 234165 251643 156243 124356 135624 234156 215634 165234 142365 bob. 243156 215643 165243 142356 136542 234615 125634 136524 243615 125643 164352 145623 243615 152634 164325 145632 132465 246351 152643 bob. bob. 132456 264351 163452 146523 123465 246531 154326 163425 146532 123456

This will go as many Changes as the last mentioned, by making Bobs. And here I will shut up this days Peal upon Six Bells with

The Evening Delight.

Doubles and Singles.

The Whole Hunt is the Treble, and lyes as before specified, with this exception only: That it dodges in the 2d. and 3d. places, every time it Hunts up, and down. Observe when Treble goes to lead, and leaves of leading, the Bells in the 3d. and 4th places lye still, &c. Note the pricking this Peal.

123456 254163 164235 145326 156324 213465 245163 154326 bob. 231465 241536 162453 165342 213645 214536 126453 153462 156342 231645 241356 bob. 135462 236154 214356 162435 153642 153624 263154 124365 126435 135642 135624 236514 142365 153264 263514 124635 124653 136524 135264 265314 142635 142653 163524 256341 124563 bob. 132546 265431 146253 142563 136542 123546 256431 164235 163542 132456 254613 bob. 145236 123456 245163 146253 154236 165324

This Peal will go 120 Changes, and by making Bobs, as many as above.

Note that in all the foregoing Peals upon Six Bells, the Bobs are double Changes, and made always at the leadings of the Whole-Hunt. He that Rings the Half-Hunt, may best call Bob in all Peals.

I come now to the Changes upon Seven Bells, which though the seldom Practice of them might excuse my omitting them; yet, because I promised to say somewhat of them, I shall be as good as my Word, (the Character of an Honest man) and present you with a couple of Examples, and then proceed to Peals upon Eight: But this I must crave leave to premise, That Variety of Changes may be prick'd upon Seven Bells, as Triples, and Doubles, Triples Doubles, and Single Doubles, &c. and the same Methods may be prick'd upon Seven, as may be upon Five, the true difference of Proportion being observed; but to proceed.

Dodging Triples.

Triples and Doubles, and indeed all Peals upon Six, may likewise go upon Seven Bells, thus,

1234567 - 2143576 4523671 3514276 2415367 5432761 3152467 4251376 4523716 1325476 4523167 5432176 1352746 5432617 5341267

Plain Triples.

1234567 - 2143657 6745231 3517264 2416375 7654321 3152746 4261735 7563412 1325476 4627153 5736142 6472513 5371624

In this all the Bells have a Hunting Course.

College Triples, dodging before, and behind,

1234567 - 2143576 2467315 4176235 2415367 4276135 4712653 4251376 2471653 7421635 2453167 4217635 4726153 4235617 4126753 7462513 2436571 1462735 4765231 4263751 1467253

This Peal thus prick't, will go, 84 Changes, and the Treble leading, and the Half Hunt lying next it, and a parting Change (which is a double on the four middlemost of the Six hind Bells) being made, it will go 420, and by making Bobs 5040.

Thus much shall suffice for Peals upon Seven Bells, I proceed to Changes upon Eight.

Peals of Eight Bells.

Without amusing our selves with what Notes are most Musical, to lye behind, we will come to the matter of Fact; for those Methods of Peals that are prick'd on six, may be the same upon Eight, Observing only, that Triples and Doubles upon Six, must be Quadruples, and Triples upon Eight.

The Imperial Bob.

Quadruples and Triples.

The Treble hath a dodging Course, the two first, and two last Bells always dodge, till hindered by the Treble, the two next to these, lying still one Change, dodge the next, till the Treble hinders them too, Those in the 5th. and 6th. places dodge (the Treble being behind) and those in the 3d. and 4th. places likewise dodge (the Treble being before) and so till hindered by the Treble.

12345678 42361875 16847253 14283675 21436587 24368157 16482735 12346578 42631875 18645273 21436587 24613857 18765432 18462537 24136578 42168375 bob. 42315687 24618357 17864523 16587432 24135678 42163857 bob. 42316587 41268357 16573824 15684732 24361578 14623875 bob. 42635187 41263857 15678342 18753624 24631578 14628375 bob. 42365187 14263857 17352648 17856342 24635817 41628375 17536284 42368571 14268357 15372846 24365817 41623875 13274586 15738264 42638571 46128357 13725468 24365871 64213875 13254768 42638517 46123857 12438765 13527486 24635871 64218375 12347856 42368517 46281357 12436587 24638157 &c. 14826357 12345678

By this method the Peal will go 224 Changes, and by making of Bobs it will go 448, 672, 1344. The Bob is a Triple Change at the leading of the Treble, wherein the Bell in the Fourth place lies still.

The next that comes to our Observation, and answers to what we first hinted at in the beginning of this discourse of Peals upon Eight Bells, I mean Precedency in Title, is the

Bob Major.

Plain Quadruples and Triples.

In this all the Bells have a direct Hunting Course, until the Treble leads, and then the six hindmost Bells dodge.

12345678 21436587 86745231 35172846 24163857 87654321 31527486 42618375 78563412 13254768 46281735 75836142 31527486 64827153 57381624 68472513 53718264

By this method this will go 112. And by making Bobs, 224, 336, or 672. The Bob is a Triple Change, as in the foregoing Imperial is specified. By making two Extreams, it will go 1344, and with four Extreams, 2688.

All Peals upon Six Bells, wherein half the Changes are Triples, will go upon Eight according to the method before-going, thus; If it be a Peal upon Six consisting of 360, or 720 Changes, then there must be five Hunts in the Ringing of it upon Eight, the Treble being the first, 2 the Second, &c.

College Bob Major.

Quadruples and Triples.

There is four ways of pricking these. The first hath single Dodging behind, and is thus Peal'd.

The First.

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The Second.

This hath Single Dodging before and behind, thus prickt.

12345678 21436587 42358671 42173865 24163578 24385761 41237856 42615387 42837516 14328765 24651378 24873156 13482756 42563187 42781365 24536817 24718356

The Third.

This hath double Dodging behind, thus Prickt.

12345678 21436587 63548271 78153624 24135678 65384721 71856342 42316587 56837412 17583624 43261578 58673142 15786342 34625187 85761324 36452817 87216342

The Fourth.

This hath double Dodging before and behind both, thus.

12345678 21436587 42638571 42167358 24135678 24368751 41263785 42316587 42637815 14627358 24361578 24367185 16423785 42635187 42631758 24365817 24613785

These may be prick't several other ways, but that I Omit here for Brevities sake; The Dodging is without Intermission, except an hinderence comes by the Treble; as likewise between two Bells, until Treble parts the Fray. The Bobs are Triple Changes, as the Treble leads; in the 1st. 2d. and 6th. the Bell in the 4th. place lies still at the Bobs, and in the 3d. 4th. and 5th. that in the 2d. place lies still.

Each of these will go 112 Changes, and by making Bobs 224, 336, or 672.

College Triples Dodging both before and behind.

This Peal is the same for Bobs, as the Bob Major, and will go as many Changes by making Bobs, or otherwise, as any of the foregoing Four, and is thus Peal'd.

12345678 21436587 42568371 42157836 24153678 24586731 41275863 42513687 42587613 14725836 24531678 24578163 17452863 42536187 42571836 24563817 24517863

The Wild-Goose Chase

Triples.

The Explanation shall follow the Peal; intending here to put an end to my Epitome of the Art of Ringing, and therefore shall first present you with this Prick't thus.

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In this Change the 4th. Bell must first hunt up into the Sevenths place, and then the 4 and 8 always dodge behind throughout the Peal, unless when obstructed by the Treble. The Bell that moves up into the 6th. place, when the Treble moves thence down, lies still there, till displaced by the Treble; during which time the two hind Bells dodge, and the five first go a perfect Hunting-course: And when likewise the Treble moveth out of the 5ths. place the five first Bells go a Hunting-course, till it comes down there again: By this method it will go 80 changes, and by Bobs 160, 240, or 480. The Bob is made as in the foregoing Changes.