"If the Indians are in the path and do not wish to be seen, they cross a ridge, and the town moves on, ignorant whether there are fifty Indians within a mile or no Indian within fifty miles. If the Indians wish to see, they return to the crest of the ridge, crawl up to the edge, pull up a bunch of grass by the roots, and look through or under it at the procession."

Although I would always encourage men in hunting when permanently located, yet, unless they are good woodsmen, it is not safe to permit them to go out alone in marching through the Indian country, as, aside from the danger of encountering Indians, they would be liable to become bewildered and perhaps lost, and this might detain the entire party in searching for them. The better plan upon a march is for three or four to go out together, accompanied by a good woodsman, who will be able with certainty to lead them back to camp.

The little group could ascertain if Indians are about, and would be strong enough to act on the defensive against small parties of them; and, while they are amusing themselves, they may perform an important part as scouts and flankers.

An expedition may have been perfectly organized, and every thing provided that the wisest forethought could suggest, yet circumstances beyond the control of the most experienced traveler may sometimes arise to defeat the best concerted plans. It is not, for example, an impossible contingency that the traveler may, by unforeseen delays, consume his provisions, lose them in crossing streams, or have them stolen by hostile Indians, and be reduced to the necessity of depending upon game for subsistence. Under these circumstances, a few observations upon the habits of the different animals that frequent the Plains and on the best methods of hunting them may not be altogether devoid of interest or utility in this connection.

THE BUFFALO.

The largest and most useful animal that roams over the prairies is the buffalo. It provides food, clothing, and shelter to thousands of natives whose means of livelihood depend almost exclusively upon this gigantic monarch of the prairies.

Not many years since they thronged in countless multitudes over all that vast area lying between Mexico and the British possessions, but now their range is confined within very narrow limits, and a few more years will probably witness the extinction of the species.

The traveler, in passing from Texas or Arkansas through southern New Mexico to California, does not, at the present day, encounter the buffalo; but upon all the routes north of latitude 36 deg. the animal is still found between the 99th and 102d meridians of longitude.

Although generally regarded as migratory in their habits, yet the buffalo often winter in the snows of a high northern latitude. Early in the spring of 1858 I found them in the Rocky Mountains, at the head of the Arkansas and South Platte Rivers, and there was every indication that this was a permanent abiding-place for them.

There are two methods generally practiced in hunting the buffalo, viz.: running them on horseback, and stalking, or still-hunting. The first method requires a sure-footed and tolerably fleet horse that is not easily frightened. The buffalo cow, which makes much better beef than the bull, when pursued by the hunter runs rapidly, and, unless the horse be fleet, it requires a long and exhausting chase to overtake her.

When the buffalo are discovered, and the hunter intends to give chase, he should first dismount, arrange his saddle-blanket and saddle, buckle the girth tight, and make every thing about his horse furniture snug and secure. He should then put his arms in good firing order, and, taking the lee side of the herd, so that they may not get "the wind" of him, he should approach in a walk as close as possible, taking advantage of any cover that may offer. His horse then, being cool and fresh, will be able to dash into the herd, and probably carry his rider very near the animal he has selected before he becomes alarmed.

If the hunter be right-handed, and uses a pistol, he should approach upon the left side, and when nearly opposite and close upon the buffalo, deliver his shot, taking aim a little below the centre of the body, and about eight inches back of the shoulder. This will strike the vitals, and generally render another shot unnecessary.

When a rifle or shot-gun is used the hunter rides up on the right side, keeping his horse well in hand, so as to be able to turn off if the beast charges upon him; this, however, never happens except with a buffalo that is wounded, when it is advisable to keep out of his reach.

The buffalo has immense powers of endurance, and will run for many miles without any apparent effort or diminution in speed. The first buffalo I ever saw I followed about ten miles, and when I left him he seemed to run faster than when the chase commenced.

As a long buffalo-chase is very severe labor upon a horse, I would recommend to all travelers, unless they have a good deal of surplus horse-flesh, never to expend it in running buffalo.

Still-hunting, which requires no consumption of horse-flesh, and is equally successful with the other method, is recommended. In stalking on horseback, the most broken and hilly localities should be selected, as these will furnish cover to the hunter, who passes from the crest of one hill to another, examining the country carefully in all directions. When the game is discovered, if it happen to be on the lee side, the hunter should endeavor, by making a wide detour, to get upon the opposite side, as he will find it impossible to approach within rifle range with the wind.

When the animal is upon a hill, or in any other position where he can not be approached without danger of disturbing him, the hunter should wait until he moves off to more favorable ground, and this will not generally require much time, as they wander about a great deal when not grazing; he then pickets his horse, and approaches cautiously, seeking to screen himself as much as possible by the undulations in the surface, or behind such other objects as may present themselves; but if the surface should offer no cover, he must crawl upon his hands and knees when near the game, and in this way he can generally get within rifle range.

Should there be several animals together, and his first shot take effect, the hunter can often get several other shots before they become frightened. A Delaware Indian and myself once killed five buffaloes out of a small herd before the remainder were so much disturbed as to move away; although we were within the short distance of twenty yards, yet the reports of our rifles did not frighten them in the least, and they continued grazing during all the time we were loading and firing.

The sense of smelling is exceedingly acute with the buffalo, and they will take the wind from the hunter at as great a distance as a mile.

When the animal is wounded, and stops, it is better not to go near him until he lies down, as he will often run a great distance if disturbed; but if left to himself, will in many cases die in a short time.

The tongues, humps, and marrow-bones are regarded as the choice parts of the animal. The tongue is taken out by ripping open the skin between the prongs of the lower jaw-bone and pulling it out through the orifice. The hump may be taken off by skinning down on each side of the shoulders and cutting away the meat, after which the hump-ribs can be unjointed where they unite with the spine. The marrow, when roasted in the bones, is delicious.

THE DEER.

Of all game quadrupeds indigenous to this continent, the common red deer is probably more widely dispersed from north to south and from east to west over our vast possessions than any other. They are found in all latitudes from Hudson's Bay to Mexico, and they clamber over the most elevated peaks of the western sierras with the same ease that they range the eastern forests or the everglades of Florida. In summer they crop the grass upon the summits of the Rocky Mountains, and in winter, when the snow falls deep, they descend into sheltered valleys, where they fall an easy prey to the Indians.

Besides the common red deer of the Eastern States, two other varieties are found in the Rocky Mountains, viz., the "black-tailed deer," which takes its name from the fact of its having a small tuft of black hair upon the end of its tail, and the long-tailed species. The former of these is considerably larger than the eastern deer, and is much darker, being of a very deep-yellowish iron-gray, with a yellowish red upon the belly. It frequents the mountains, and is never seen far away from them. Its habits are similar to those of the red deer, and it is hunted in the same way. The only difference I have been able to discern between the long-tailed variety and the common deer is in the length of the tail and body. I have seen this animal only in the neighborhood of the Rocky Mountains, but it may resort to other localities.

Although the deer are still abundant in many of our forest districts in the east, and do not appear to decrease very rapidly, yet there has within a few years been a very evident diminution in the numbers of those frequenting our Western prairies. In passing through Southern Texas in 1846, thousands of deer were met with daily, and, astonishing as it may appear, it was no uncommon spectacle to see from one to two hundred in a single herd; the prairies seemed literally alive with them; but in 1855 it was seldom that a herd often was seen in the same localities. It seemed to me that the vast herds first met with could not have been killed off by the hunters in that sparsely-populated section, and I was puzzled to know what had become of them. It is possible they may have moved off into Mexico; they certainly are not in our territory at the present time.

Twenty years' experience in deer-hunting has taught me several facts relative to the habits of the animal which, when well understood, will be found of much service to the inexperienced hunter, and greatly contribute to his success. The best target-shots are not necessarily the most skillful deer-stalkers. One of the great secrets of this art is in knowing how to approach the game without giving alarm, and this can not easily be done unless the hunter sees it before he is himself discovered. There are so many objects in the woods resembling the deer in color that none but a practiced eye can often detect the difference.

When the deer is reposing he generally turns his head from the wind, in which position he can see an enemy approaching from that direction, and his nose will apprise him of the presence of danger from the opposite side. The best method of hunting deer, therefore, is across the wind.

While the deer are feeding, early in the morning and a short time before dark in the evening are the best times to stalk them, as they are then busily occupied and less on the alert. When a deer is espied with his head down, cropping the grass, the hunter advances cautiously, keeping his eyes constantly directed upon him, and screening himself behind intervening objects, or, in the absence of other cover, crawls along upon his hands and knees in the grass, until the deer hears his steps and raises his head, when he must instantly stop and remain in an attitude fixed and motionless as a statue, for the animal's vision is his keenest sense. When alarmed he will detect the slightest movement of a small object, and, unless the hunter stands or lies perfectly still, his presence will be detected. If the hunter does not move, the deer will, after a short time, recover from his alarm and resume his grazing, when he may be again approached. The deer always exhibits his alarm by a sudden jerking of the tail just before he raises his head.

I once saw a Delaware Indian walk directly up within rifle range of a deer that was feeding upon the open prairie and shoot him down; he was, however, a long time in approaching, and made frequent halts whenever the animal flirted his tail and raised his head. Although he often turned toward the hunter, yet he did not appear to notice him, probably taking him for a stump or tree.

When the deer are lying down in the smooth prairie, unless the grass is tall, it is difficult to get near them, as they are generally looking around, and become alarmed at the least noise.

The Indians are in the habit of using a small instrument which imitates the bleat of the young fawn, with which they lure the doe within range of their rifles. The young fawn gives out no scent upon its track until it is sufficiently grown to make good running, and instinct teaches the mother that this wise provision of nature to preserve the helpless little quadruped from the ravages of wolves, panthers, and other carnivorous beasts, will be defeated if she remains with it, as her tracks can not be concealed. She therefore hides her fawn in the grass, where it is almost impossible to see it, even when very near it, goes off to some neighboring thicket within call, and makes her bed alone. The Indian pot-hunter, who is but little scrupulous as to the means he employs in accomplishing his ends, sounds the bleat along near the places where he thinks the game is lying, and the unsuspicious doe, who imagines that her offspring is in distress, rushes with headlong impetuosity toward the sound, and often goes within a few yards of the hunter to receive her death-wound.

This is cruel sport, and can only be justified when meat is scarce, which is very frequently the case in the Indian's larder.

It does not always comport with a man's feelings of security, especially if he happens to be a little nervous, to sound the deer-bleat in a wild region of country. I once undertook to experiment with the instrument myself, and made my first essay in attempting to call up an antelope which I discovered in the distance. I succeeded admirably in luring the wary victim within shooting range, had raised upon my knees, and was just in the act of pulling trigger, when a rustling in the grass on my left drew my attention in that direction, where, much to my surprise, I beheld a huge panther within about twenty yards, bounding with gigantic strides directly toward me. I turned my rifle, and in an instant, much to my relief and gratification, its contents were lodged in the heart of the beast.

Many men, when they suddenly encounter a deer, are seized with nervous excitement, called in sporting parlance the "buck fever," which causes them to fire at random. Notwithstanding I have had much experience in hunting, I must confess that I am never entirely free from some of the symptoms of this malady when firing at large game, and I believe that in four out of five cases where I have missed the game my balls have passed too high. I have endeavored to obviate this by sighting my rifle low, and it has been attended with more successful results. The same remarks apply to most other men I have met with. They fire too high when excited.

THE ANTELOPE.

This animal frequents the most elevated bleak and naked prairies in all latitudes from Mexico to Oregon, and constitutes an important item of subsistence with many of the Prairie Indians. It is the most wary, timid, and fleet animal that inhabits the Plains. It is about the size of a small deer, with a heavy coating of coarse, wiry hair, and its flesh is more tender and juicy than that of the deer. It seldom enters a timbered country, but seems to delight in cropping the grass from the elevated swells of the prairies. When disturbed by the traveler, it will circle around him with the speed of the wind, but does not stop until it reaches some prominent position whence it can survey the country on all sides, and nothing seems to escape its keen vision. They will sometimes stand for a long time and look at a man, provided he does not move or go out of sight; but if he goes behind a hill with the intention of passing around and getting nearer to them, he will never find them again in the same place. I have often tried the experiment, and invariably found that, as soon as I went where the antelope could not see me, he moved off. Their sense of hearing, as well as vision, is very acute, which renders it difficult to stalk them. By taking advantage of the cover afforded in broken ground, the hunter may, by moving slowly and cautiously over the crests of the irregularities in the surface, sometimes approach within rifle range.

The antelope possesses a greater degree of curiosity than any other animal I know of, and will often approach very near a strange object. The experienced hunter, taking advantage of this peculiarity, lies down and secretes himself in the grass, after which he raises his handkerchief, hand, or foot, so as to attract the attention of the animal, and thus often succeeds in beguiling him within shooting distance.

In some valleys near the Rocky Mountains, where the pasturage is good during the winter season, they collect in immense herds. The Indians are in the habit of surrounding them in such localities and running them with their horses until they tire them out, when they slay large numbers.



The antelope makes a track much shorter than the deer, very broad and round at the heel, and quite sharp at the toe; a little experience renders it easy to distinguish them.

THE BEAR.

Besides the common black bear of the Eastern States, several others are found in the mountains of California, Oregon, Utah, and New Mexico, viz., the grizzly, brown, and cinnamon varieties; all have nearly the same habits, and are hunted in the same manner.

From all I had heard of the grizzly bear, I was induced to believe him one of the most formidable and savage animals in the universe, and that the man who would deliberately encounter and kill one of these beasts had performed a signal feat of courage which entitled him to a lofty position among the votaries of Nimrod. So firmly had I become impressed with this conviction, that I should have been very reluctant to fire upon one had I met him when alone and on foot. The grizzly bear is assuredly the monarch of the American forests, and, so far as physical strength is concerned, he is perhaps without a rival in the world; but, after some experience in hunting, my opinions regarding his courage and his willingness to attack men have very materially changed.

In passing over the elevated table-lands lying between the two forks of the Platte River in 1858, I encountered a full-grown female grizzly bear, with two cubs, very quietly reposing upon the open prairie, several miles distant from any timber. This being the first opportunity that had ever occurred to me for an encounter with the ursine monster, and being imbued with the most exalted notions of the beast's proclivities for offensive warfare, especially when in the presence of her offspring, it may very justly be imagined that I was rather more excited than usual. I, however, determined to make the assault. I felt the utmost confidence in my horse, as she was afraid of nothing; and, after arranging every thing about my saddle and arms in good order, I advanced to within about eighty yards before I was discovered by the bear, when she raised upon her haunches and gave me a scrutinizing examination. I seized this opportune moment to fire, but missed my aim, and she started off, followed by her cubs at their utmost speed. After reloading my rifle, I pursued, and, on coming again within range, delivered another shot, which struck the large bear in the fleshy part of the thigh, whereupon she set up a most distressing howl and accelerated her pace, leaving her cubs behind. After loading again I gave the spurs to my horse and resumed the chase, soon passing the cubs, who were making the most plaintive cries of distress. They were heard by the dam, but she gave no other heed to them than occasionally to halt for an instant, turn around, sit up on her posteriors, and give a hasty look back; but, as soon as she saw me following her, she invariably turned again and redoubled her speed. I pursued about four miles and fired four balls into her before I succeeded in bringing her to the ground, and from the time I first saw her until her death-wound, notwithstanding I was often very close upon her heels, she never came to bay or made the slightest demonstration of resistance. Her sole purpose seemed to be to make her escape, leaving her cubs in the most cowardly manner.

Upon three other different occasions I met the mountain bears, and once the cinnamon species, which is called the most formidable of all, and in none of these instances did they exhibit the slightest indication of anger or resistance, but invariably ran from me.

Such is my experience with this formidable monarch of the mountains. It is possible that if a man came suddenly upon the beast in a thicket, where it could have no previous warning, he might be attacked; but it is my opinion that if the bear gets the wind or sight of a man at any considerable distance, it will endeavor to get away as soon as possible. I am so fully impressed with this idea that I shall hereafter hunt bear with a feeling of as much security as I would have in hunting the buffalo.

The grizzly, like the black bear, hybernates in winter, and makes his appearance in the spring with his claws grown out long and very soft and tender; he is then poor, and unfit for food.

I have heard a very curious fact stated by several old mountaineers regarding the mountain bears, which, of course, I can not vouch for, but it is given by them with great apparent sincerity and candor. They assert that no instance has ever been known of a female bear having been killed in a state of pregnancy. This singular fact in the history of the animal seems most inexplicable to me, unless she remain concealed in her brumal slumber until after she has been delivered of her cubs.

I was told by an old Delaware Indian that when the bear has been traveling against the wind and wishes to lie down, he always turns in an opposite direction, and goes some distance away from his first track before making his bed. If an enemy then comes upon his trail, his keen sense of smell will apprise him of the danger. The same Indian mentioned that when a bear had been pursued and sought shelter in a cave, he had often endeavored to eject him with smoke, but that the bear would advance to the mouth of the cave, where the fire was burning, and put it out with his paws, then retreat into the cave again. This would indicate that Bruin is endowed with some glimpses of reason beyond the ordinary instincts of the brute creation in general, and, indeed, is capable of discerning the connection between cause and effect. Notwithstanding the extraordinary intelligence which this quadruped exhibits upon some occasions, upon others he shows himself to be one of the most stupid brutes imaginable. For example, when he has taken possession of a cavern, and the courageous hunter enters with a torch and rifle, it is said he will, instead of forcibly ejecting the intruder, raise himself upon his haunches and cover his eyes with his paws, so as to exclude the light, apparently thinking that in this situation he can not be seen. The hunter can then approach as close as he pleases and shoot him down.

THE BIG-HORN.

The big-horn or mountain sheep, which has a body like the deer, with the head of a sheep, surmounted by an enormous pair of short, heavy horns, is found throughout the Rocky Mountains, and resorts to the most inaccessible peaks and to the wildest and least-frequented glens. It clambers over almost perpendicular cliffs with the greatest ease and celerity, and skips from rock to rock, cropping the tender herbage that grows upon them.

It has been supposed by some that this animal leaps down from crag to crag, lighting upon his horns, as an evidence of which it has been advanced that the front part of the horns is often much battered. This I believe to be erroneous, as it is very common to see horns that have no bruises upon them.

The old mountaineers say they have often seen the bucks engaged in desperate encounters with their huge horns, which, in striking together, made loud reports. This will account for the marks sometimes seen upon them.

The flesh of the big-horn, when fat, is more tender, juicy, and delicious than that of any other animal I know of, but it is a bon bouche which will not grace the tables of our city epicures until a railroad to the Rocky Mountains affords the means of transporting it to a market a thousand miles distant from its haunts.

In its habits the mountain sheep greatly resembles the chamois of Switzerland, and it is hunted in the same manner. The hunter traverses the most inaccessible and broken localities, moving along with great caution, as the least unusual noise causes them to flit away like a phantom, and they will be seen no more. The animal is gregarious, but it is seldom that more than eight or ten are found in a flock. When not grazing they seek the sheltered sides of the mountains, and repose among the rocks.



ITINERARIES.



LIST OF ITINERARIES:

SHOWING THE DISTANCES BETWEEN CAMPING-PLACES, THE CHARACTER OF THE ROADS, AND THE FACILITIES FOR OBTAINING WOOD, WATER, AND GRASS ON THE PRINCIPAL ROUTES BETWEEN THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER AND THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

No. Page

I. From Fort Smith, Arkansas, to Santa Fe and Albuquerque, New Mexico. By Captain R. B. Marcy, U.S.A. 257

II. From Fort Leavenworth to Santa Fe, by the way of the upper ferry of the Kansas River and the Cimarron 260

III. Camping-places upon a road discovered and marked out from Fort Smith, Arkansas, to Dona Ana and El Paso, New Mexico, in 1849. By Captain R. B. Marcy, U.S.A. 263

IV. From Leavenworth City to Great Salt Lake City 266

V. From Salt Lake City to Sacramento and Benicia, California 273

VI. From Great Salt Lake City to Los Angeles and San Francisco, California 277

VII. From Fort Bridger to the "City of Rocks." From Captain Handcock's Journal 279

VIII. From Soda Springs to the City of Rocks, known as Hudspeth's Cut-off 282

IX. Sublet's Cut-off, from the junction of the Salt Lake and Fort Hall Roads 282

X. From Lawson's Meadows, on the Humboldt River, to Fort Reading, via Rogue River Valley, Fort Lane, Oregon Territory, Yreka, and Fort Jones 283

XI. From Soda Springs to Fort Wallah Wallah and Oregon City, Oregon, via Fort Hall 285

XII. Route for pack trains from John Day's River to Oregon City 288

XIII. From Indianola and Powder-horn to San Antonio, Texas 288

XIV. Wagon-road from San Antonio, Texas, to El Paso, N.M., and Fort Yuma, California 289

XV. From Fort Yuma to San Diego, California 292

XVI. From El Paso, New Mexico, to Fort Yuma, California, via Santa Cruz 294

XVII. From Westport, Missouri, to the gold diggings at Pike's Peak and "Cherry Creek," N.T., via the Arkansas River 295

XVIII. From St. Paul's, Min., to Fort Wallah Wallah, Oregon 302

XIX. Lieutenant E. F. Beale's route from Albuquerque to the Colorado River 307

XX. Captain Whipple's route from Albuquerque, New Mexico, to San Pedro, California 308

XXI. From Fort Yuma to Benicia, California. From Lieutenant R. S. Williamson's Report 315

XXII. A new route from Fort Bridger to Camp Floyd, opened by Captain J. H. Simpson, U.S.A., in 1858 317

XXIII. From Fort Thorne, New Mexico, to Fort Yuma, California 318

XXIV. Lieutenant Bryan's Route from the Laramie Crossing of the South Platte to Fort Bridger, via Bridger's Pass 320

XXV. Wagon-route from Denver City, at the Mouth of Cherry Creek, to Fort Bridger, Utah 323

XXVI. From Nebraska City, on the Missouri, to Fort Kearney 326

XXVII. From Camp Floyd, Utah, to Fort Union, New Mexico. By Colonel W. W. Loring, U.S.A. 327

XXVIII. Wagon-route from Guaymas, Mexico, to Tubac, Arizona. From Captain Stone's Journal 333

I.—From Fort Smith, Arkansas, to Santa Fe and Albuquerque, New Mexico. By Captain R. B. MARCY, U.S.A.

Miles.

Fort Smith to

15. Strickland's Farm.—The road crosses the Poteau River at Fort Smith, where there is a ferry; it then follows the Poteau bottom for ten miles. This part of the road is very muddy after heavy rains. At 14 miles it passes the Choctaw Agency, where there are several stores. There is the greatest abundance of wood, water, and grass at all camps for the first 200 miles. Where any of these are wanting it will be specially mentioned. The road passes through the Choctaw settlements for about 150 miles, and corn and supplies can be purchased from these Indians at reasonable rates.

11. Camp Creek.—Road crosses a prairie of three miles in length, then enters a heavy forest. The camp is on a small branch, with grass plenty in a small prairie about 400 yards to the left of the road.

12. Coon Creek.—Road passes through the timber, and is muddy in a rainy season.

12. Sans Bois Creek.—Prairie near; some Choctaw houses at the crossing.

14. Bend of Sans Bois Creek.—Indian farm.

15. South Fork of Canadian, or "Gain's Creek."—Road traverses a very rough and hilly region. There is a ford and a ferry upon the creek. Indian farm on the west bank.

12. First ford of Coal Creek.—Road crosses over a rolling prairie, and at four miles the Fort Washita road turns to the left.

Second ford of Coal Creek.—Indian farm.

4. Little Cedar Mountain.—Very rough, mountainous road.

6. Stony Point.—Very rough, mountainous road.

5. Shawnee Village.—Several Indian houses.

14. Shawnee Town.—Road passes several small prairies. Indian settlement; store on opposite bank of Canadian River, near the camp.

21. Delaware Mountain.—Road passes over a very beautiful country, with small streams of good water frequent, and good camps. It crosses small prairies and groves of timber.

5. Boggy River.—Road passes a country similar to that mentioned above.

3. Clear Creek.—Road turns to the right near a prominent round mound. Beautiful country, diversified with prairies and timbered lands.

7. Branch of Topofki Creek.—Beautiful country and fine roads.

9-1/2. Cane Creek.—Excellent camp.

5. Small Branch.—Road passes about two miles from the old "Camp Arbuckle," built by Captain Marcy in 1853, since occupied by Black Beaver and several Delaware families.

11-1/2. Mustang Creek.—Road runs on the dividing ridge between the waters of the Washita and Canadian, on a high prairie.

17-1/2. Choteau's Creek.—Road passes on the high prairie opposite Choteau's old trading-house, and leaves the outer limits of the Indian settlements. Excellent road, and good camps at short distances.

11-3/4. Choteau's Creek.—Road runs up the creek; is smooth and good.

12-3/4. Head of Choteau's Creek.—Road runs up the creek, and is good.

17-1/4. Branch of Washita River.—Road runs over an elevated prairie country, and passes a small branch at six miles from last camp.

5-3/4. Branch of "Spring Creek."—Good camp.

16. Head of "Spring Creek."—Road traverses a high prairie country, is smooth and firm.

13. Red Mounds.—Road runs over a high rolling prairie country, and is excellent.

5. Branch of Washita River.—Good road.

15-3/4. Branch of Canadian.—Road continues on the ridge dividing the Washita and Canadian rivers; is smooth and firm.

17-3/4. Branch of Washita River.—Road continues on the "divide."

18. Branch of Canadian.—Road continues on the divide from one to four miles from the Canadian.

19. On Canadian River.—Good road.

16. Little Washita River.—Good road; timber becoming scarce.

13. Branch of Canadian.—Good road.

17-1/2. Antelope Buttes.—Road runs along the Canadian bottom, and in places is sandy.

14. Rush Lake.—Small pond on the prairie. No wood within half a mile; some buffalo chips; poor water.

16. Branch of Washita River.—Good road on the divide.

10-1/4. Dry River.—Road descends a very long hill, and crosses the dry river near the Canadian. Water can be found by digging about a foot in the sand of the creek. Good grass on the west bank.

17. Branch of Canadian.—Road winds up a very long and abrupt hill, but is smooth and firm.

22-1/2. Timbered Creek.—Road passes over a very elevated prairie country, and descends by a long hill into the beautiful valley of Timbered Creek.

11-1/2. Spring Branch.—Good camp.

14. Spring Branch.—Good camp.

17-3/4. Branch of Canadian.—Road passes a small branch 3-1/2 miles from the last camp.

18-3/8. Branch of Canadian.—Road passes a small branch of the Canadian at 8 miles from the last camp.

17-7/8. Spring Branch.—Good road.

9-1/2. Branch of Canadian.—Good road and camp.

18-1/2. Branch of the Canadian.—Good road and camp.

10-1/4. Pools of Water.—Good camp.

10. Large Pond.—Good camp.

25. Pools of Water.—No wood; water brackish. The road passes over a very elevated and dry country, without wood or water.

18-1/2. Head of Branch.—At 13-1/2 miles the road crosses a branch of the Canadian.

19-3/4. Laguna Colorado.—Road here falls into an old Mexican cart-road. Good springs on the left up the creek, with wood and grass abundant.

7. Pools of Water.—Road runs through cedars.

10-3/8. Pajarito Creek.—Grass begins to be rather short in places, but is abundant on the creek.

13-1/2. Gallenas Creek.—Good camp.

15. 2d Gallenas Creek.—Good road.

16-1/2. Pecos River at Anton Chico.—This is the first settlement after leaving Camp Arbuckle. Corn and vegetables can be purchased here. Grass is generally short here.

15. Pecos River opposite Questa.—Road runs through the cedar, and is firm and good. Camp is in sight of the town of Questa, upon a very elevated bluff.

21-3/4. Laguna Colorado.—Road passes through a wooded country for a portion of the distance, but leaves it before reaching camp, where there is no wood, but water generally sufficient for trains. In very dry seasons it has been known to fail. The road forks here, the right leading to Santa Fe via Galistio (45-1/2 miles), and the left to Albuquerque.

22-1/2. San Antonio.—Good road.

18-3/4. Albuquerque.—Good road.

Total distance from Fort Smith to Albuquerque, 814-3/4 miles.

Total distance from Fort Smith to Santa Fe, 819 miles.

* * * * *

II.—From Fort Leavenworth to Santa Fe, by the way of the upper ferry of the Kansas River and the Cimarron.

[In this table the distances, taken by an odometer, are given in miles and hundredths of a mile. The measured distances between the crossing of the Arkansas and Santa Fe are from Major Kendrick's published table. Wood, water, and grass are found at all points where the absence of them is not stated.]

Miles.

From Fort Leavenworth to

2.88. Salt Creek.

9.59. Stranger's Creek.

13.54. Stranger's Creek.

9.60. Grasshopper Creek.

6.50. Grasshopper Creek.

2.86. Grasshopper Creek.

2.60. Grasshopper Creek.

4.54. Soldier's Creek.

2.45. Upper Ferry, Kansas River.

7.41. Pottawatomie Settlement.

5.75. Pottawatomie Creek.

3.89. White Wakarussi Creek.

7.78. White Wakarussi Creek.

6.27. White Wakarussi Creek.

0.73. Road from Independence.—No place to encamp.

5.72. White Wakarussi Creek.

2.51. White Wakarussi Creek.

2.82. 142-mile Creek.

7.80. Bluff Creek.

5.77. Rock Creek.

5.08. Big John Spring.

2.29. Council Grove.

7.97. Elm Creek.—Water generally.

8.06. Diamond Spring.

1.42. Diamond Creek.

15.46. Lost Spring.—No wood.

9.25. Mud Creek.—Water uncertain; no wood.

7.76. Cottonwood Creek.

6.16. Water Holes.—Water generally; no wood.

12.44. Big Turkey Creek.—No water.

7.83. Little Turkey Creek.—Water uncertain; no wood.

18.19. Little Arkansas River.

10.60. Owl Creek.—Water generally in holes above and below crossing.

6.39. Little Cow Creek.—Water only occasionally.

2.93. Big Cow Creek.—Water holes, 10 miles (estimated). Water uncertain; no wood.

18.24. Bend of the Arkansas.

6.66. Walnut Creek.

16.35. Pawnee Rock.—Teams sometimes camp near here, and drive stock to the Arkansas to water. No wood.

5.28. Ash Creek.—Water above and below crossing, uncertain.

6.65. Pawnee Fork.—Best grass some distance above crossing.

From Pawnee Fork to the lower crossing of the Arkansas, a distance of 98-1/2 miles, convenient camping-places can be found along the Arkansas; the most prominent localities are therefore only mentioned. A supply of fuel should be laid in at Pawnee Fork to last till you pass Fort Mann, though it may be obtained, but inconveniently, from the opposite side of the Arkansas. Dry Route branches off at 3-1/2 miles (estimated). This route joins the main one again 10 miles this side of Fort Mann. It is said to be a good one, but deficient in water and without wood.

11.43. Coon Creek.

46.58. Jackson's Island.

5.01. Dry Route comes in.

10.05. Fort Mann.

25.34. Lower Crossing of the Arkansas.—The Bent's Fort Route branches off at this point. For the distances upon this route, see next table. A supply of wood should be got from this vicinity to last till you reach Cedar Creek.

15.68. Water-hole.—Water uncertain; no wood.

30.02. Two Water-holes.—Water uncertain; no wood.

14.14. Lower Cimarron Springs.—No wood.

20.00. Pools of Water.—Water uncertain; no wood.

19.02. Middle Springs of the Cimarron.—No wood.

12.93. Little Crossing of the Cimarron.—No wood.

14.10. Upper Cimarron Springs.—No wood. Pools of water, 7 miles (estimated). No wood.

19.05. Cold Spring.—A tree here and there in the vicinity. Pools of water, 11 miles (estimated). Water uncertain; no wood.

16.13. Cedar Creek.—M'Nees' Creek, 10 miles (estimated). Water indifferent and uncertain; scant pasture; no wood. Arroyo del la Sena, 2-1/2 miles (estimated). No water.

21.99. Cottonwood Creek.—No water. Arroyo del Burro, 5 miles (estimated).

15.17. Rabbit-ear Creek.—10 miles (estimated), springs. Round Mound, 8 miles (estimated). No water; no wood; no camping-place. Rock Creek, 10 miles (estimated). Grazing scant; no wood.

26.40. Whetstone Creek.—Spring; no wood. Arroyo Don Carlos, 10-1/2 miles (estimated). Water, etc., to the left of the road.

14.13. Point of Rocks.—Water and grass up the canon, just after crossing the point; scattering shrub cedars on the neighboring heights.

16.62. Sandy Arroyo.—Water uncertain; no wood. Crossing of Canadian River, 4-3/4 miles (estimated). Grazing above the crossing; willows.

10.05. Rio Ocate.—Wood 1/3 of a mile to right of road; grass in the canon. Pond of water, 13-1/2 miles (estimated). No wood.

19.65. Wagon Mound.—Santa Clara Springs. Wood brought from the Rio Ocate. Rio del Perro (Rock Creek), 17-1/2 miles (estimated).

21.62. Canon del Lobo.—Rio Moro, 3-1/2 miles (estimated). Rio Sapillo, 1 mile (estimated). The Bent's Fort Route comes in here.

18.00. Las Vegas.—Forage purchasable.

13.05. Tacolote.—Forage purchasable. Ojo Vernal, 5 miles (estimated). No grass to speak of.

14.00. San Miguel.—Forage purchasable; no grass.

21.81. Ruins of Pecos.—Grazing very scant. Cottonwood Creek, 4-1/2 miles (estimated). Water uncertain; no grass.

13.41. Stone Corral.—No grass.

10.80. Santa Fe.—Forage purchasable; no grazing.

* * * * *

III.—Camping-places upon a road discovered and marked out from Fort Smith, Arkansas, to Dona Ana and El Paso, New Mexico, in 1849. By Captain R. B. MARCY, U.S.A.

Miles.

Fort Smith to

65. South Fork of the Canadian.—The road from Fort Smith to the South Fork of the Canadian follows the same track as the road to Albuquerque and Santa Fe, and by reference to the tables of distances for that road the intermediate camps will be found.

15. Prior's Store.—Grass, wood, and water near.

17-1/2. Little Boggy.—Good camp. Wherever there are not the requisites of wood, water, and grass for encamping, it will be specially noted; when they are not mentioned they will always be found.

13. Little Boggy.—Good camp.

15-1/2. Boggy Depot.—Store and blacksmith's shop.

12-3/5. Blue River.—The road passes over a flat section, which is muddy after rains.

8-1/2. Fort Washita.—Good camp half a mile before reaching the fort. The road forks at the Indian village on the Boggy, the left being the most direct. There are settlers along the road, who will give all necessary information to strangers. Corn plenty.

22. Preston Texas, on Red River.—The road from Fort Washita runs through the Indian settlements, passing many places where good camps may be found, and crosses the Red River at Preston. There is a ferry here; also stores and a blacksmith's shop.

20. M'Carty's.—Road runs through a heavy-timbered country, crossing several streams where there are good camps.

14-2/5. Elm Fork of the Trinity, at Gainesville.—Road passes over a section diversified by prairies and groves of timber.

12. Elm Fork of Trinity.—Good camp.

11. Elm Fork of Trinity.—Excellent camps. Road passes over a beautiful country rapidly settling up with farmers, who cultivate and sell grain at low rates.

9. Turkey Creek.—Tributary of Red River. Road emerges from the upper "Cross Timbers" two miles from camp.

26-3/4. Buffalo Springs.—Springs of good water, but of limited amount, in a ravine.

12. On a Ravine.—Pools of good water and a small running stream, not reliable.

13-1/2. On a Ravine.—Pools of water.

17-1/4. On a Ravine.—Pools of water.

17-1/4. Running branch of Cottonwood Spring.—Branch about two feet wide, good water; wood about half a mile distant.

14. Fort Belknap.—Good road through post-oak timber. County seat and town at Fort Belknap. Good camp on the west side of the Brazos, which is always fordable except in very high water.

14. Small Branch.—Water in holes.

18. Water-holes.—Pools of water. Road passes over prairie and timbered lands, is very smooth and level.

7-1/2. Stem's Farm, on Clear Fork of the Brazos River.—Good road; excellent camp, with abundance of wood, water, and grass. Indian reservation here.

13. Elm Creek, or Qua-qua-ho-no.—Good road over rolling prairie and mesquite lands.

17. Ravine.—Pools of standing water. Good road.

18. Ravine.—Pools of standing water. Good road.

27. Small Creek.—Tributary of the Brazos. Good road.

6. Pools of Water.—Good camp.

8-1/2. Small Branch.—Good water.

20-1/2. Tributary of the Colorado.—Brackish water.

3-1/4. Rio Colorado.—Brackish water. Road very excellent.

12-1/10. Spring on the Road.—Good water.

22-9/10. Big spring to the left of the road, affording a great amount of water, which runs off in a small stream.

23. Laguna Colorado.—Water somewhat sulphurous; fuel mesquite roots; grass abundant.

35. Mustang Pond.—This pond is north of the road about two miles, and was found in 1849, but emigrants and others have not been able to find it since. For this reason I would advise travelers to fill their water-kegs at the Laguna Colorado, as in a very dry season they might not be able to get any water until they reach the Sand Hills. The road is excellent over the "Llano Estacado," or Staked Plain.

34-1/2. Sand Hills.—Water in holes. The water is good here, and can always be relied on as permanent. The road through the Sand Hills is very heavy, and I would advise travelers with loaded wagons to make half loads.

31-1/2. Laguna near the Pecos River.—Road passes through the hills, and descends the high prairie to the valley of the Pecos. Laguna on the left.

15-5/8. Crossing of Pecos.—Water deep and not fordable; river 42 yards wide. A road leads up the eastern bank of the Pecos to a ford with rock bottom. Good camps can be had at almost any point on the Pecos. The water is brackish, but can be used without harm.

54-1/2. Pecos River.—Point of the river where the road turns off toward Delaware Creek.

9-1/8. Delaware Creek.—Good road after leaving the Pecos River. The road on the Pecos is good in the bottom in very dry weather, but after heavy rains it is submerged and very muddy. Travelers should then turn off to the bluffs. The water in Delaware Creek is brackish.

11-7/8. Ojo de San Martin.—Fine spring of fresh water, also mineral spring. Good road up Delaware Creek.

15-3/10. Independence Spring.—Large spring of excellent water. Look out for Indians.

5-1/10. Ojo del Camins.—Good spring in the pine timber at the base of the mountain.

4-1/2. Peak of the Guadalupe.—Spring at the foot of the mountain. Road descends the mountain, and is very steep.

23-7/8. Ojo del Cuerbo.—Road descends through a very rough and sinuous ravine, and crosses a long prairie to camp at a pond of standing water. No wood.

26. Cornudas (Wells).—Well in the rocks; plenty of water for small parties. Road good.

8-3/4. Sierra del Alamo.—Road good; water limited in quantity. There is a small spring upon the side of the mountain. No wood except a few mesquite roots.

22-1/4. Waco Tanks.—Good water in a large reservoir in the rocks. The road here branches, the left leading to El Paso and the right to Dona Ana.

28. El Paso, on the Rio del Norte.—Road good, with some sand; no water upon it.

The distance from the "Waco Tanks" to Dona Ana is 63 miles, but 40 miles of the road is over heavy sand, and no water until reaching the mountain, 25 miles from Dona Ana. I would recommend travelers to take the El Paso road in preference.

Total distance from Fort Smith to El Paso, 860 miles.

* * * * *

IV.—From Leavenworth City to Great Salt Lake City.

Miles.

Leavenworth City to

3. Salt Creek.—Good camp; wood, water, and grass.

12. Cold Spring.—To the right of the road, in a deep ravine, plenty of wood, water, and grass.

12. Small Branch.—To the north of the road, in an arroya, good wood, water, and grass. Here enters the road from Atcheson, 6 miles distant.

16-2/3. Grasshopper Creek.—Good wood, water, and grass.

9-1/2. Walnut Creek.—Road passes a town called Whitehead, 4 miles from last camp. Water in pools, but 3/4 of a mile below is a fine spring; plenty of wood, water, and grass.

17. Grasshopper Creek.—Good camp, with wood, water, and grass.

12-1/2. Big Nemehaw, two miles above Richland.—Good wood, water, and grass near the creek.

11. Water-holes.—On the ridge, at the head of a ravine, are wood, water, and grass, but in a dry time there would be but little water.

10-3/4. Vermilion Creek.—Water in the creek not good, but there is a good well of cold water near the road. Wood and grass good.

21-1/2. Big Blue River.—Upper crossing, good ford; plenty of wood, water, and grass. Fine clear stream, 60 yards wide.

17-1/2. Branch of the Big Blue.—Camp half a mile north of the road; good wood, water, and grass.

15. Turkey, or Rock Creek.—Good spring 400 yards to the north of the road. Store at the crossing. Good wood, water, and grass.

19. Big Sandy.—Wood, water, and grass good.

19. Little Blue River.—Road runs across the hills without water until reaching camp. Good wood, water, and grass.

18-3/4. Little Blue River.—Camp is at the point where the road turns off from the creek. Good camps may be found any where on the Little Blue, with excellent wood, water, and grass. Fine running stream.

15. Little Blue River.—Road strikes the creek again, and keeps it to the camp. Good wood, water, and grass.

19. Elm Creek.—Road leaves the Little Blue, and runs along a divide to the head of Elm Creek, where we found water in holes, with some few trees; grass good.

20. Platte River.—Road crosses one small branch, where there is water except in a dry season. Good camp on the Platte, with wood, water, and grass.

15. Fort Kearney.—Good camp about two miles from the fort, upon the Platte, either above or below; grass, wood, and water abundant.

17. Platte River—Road runs along the river, where there is plenty of grass, and occasionally a few cottonwood-trees. Here the buffalo generally begin to be seen, and the traveler can always get a plenty of buffalo-chips along in this section.

16-3/4. On Plum Creek.—Road runs along the Platte to Plum Creek, where there is a little wood, with good grass and water. Mail station at the crossing of Plum Creek.

22-1/3. On Platte River.—Road runs along the Platte bottom after crossing Plum Creek, and is good except in wet weather. The road occasionally comes near the Platte, and, although the timber becomes thin, yet places are found where fuel can be obtained. Grass is plenty at all points.

23. On Platte River.—Road continues along the river valley over a flat country where the water stands in ponds, and is boggy in wet weather. Camps occasionally on the river, but little fuel. Grass and water good.

14. On Platte River.—Road continues along the valley, with the same character as before, but more timber. Camp opposite Brady's Island. Plenty of wood, water, and grass.

17-1/4. Slough.—On the Prairie. Road runs from one to three miles from the river. No wood all day; plenty of grass, and buffalo-chips for cooking.

15-1/4. Platte River.—Road crosses O'Fallon's Bluffs, where there is a good camping-place on the right of the road. Plenty of wood, water, and grass on a small stream, which is part of the Platte. Mail station here.

16-1/2. South Platte River.—Road runs along the Platte, with no timber. Good grass and water at any point, with buffalo-chips for fuel.

17. South Platte River.—No timber all day. Good water and grass at all points, with buffalo-chips.

8. South Platte Crossing.—No wood all day. Good water and grass, with buffalo-chips. The river is about 600 yards wide, rapid, with quicksand bottom, but can be forded when not above a medium stage. It is best to send a footman ahead to ascertain the depth of water before crossing the wagons and animals.

19. Ash Hollow, at North Platte River.—Road leaves the South Fork of the Platte, and strikes over the high prairie for 16 miles, when it descends the high bluffs bordering the valley of the North Platte, and enters Ash Hollow, where there is a plenty of wood and a small spring of water. Half a mile beyond this the road reaches the river. Mail station and a small grocery here.

16-3/4. North Platte.—Very sandy road; no wood; grass and water plenty at all points; buffalo-chips sufficient for cooking.

17. North Platte.—Road sandy in places; no wood; good grass and water; some buffalo-chips.

16-1/2. North Platte.—Road good; no wood; good grass and water; cattle-chips in places.

18-3/4. North Platte.—No wood. Camp opposite "Chimney Rock," which is a very peculiar formation on the south of the road, and resembles a chimney. Grass good. Road muddy after rains.



17-1/2. North Platte.—No wood; grass and water good.

16. "Horse Creek," branch of the North Platte.—In seven miles the road passes through Scott's Bluffs, where there is generally water in the first ravine about 200 yards below the road. The road then descends the mountain, at the foot of which is the Platte and a mail station. A little wood can be obtained at Scott's Bluffs; there is none on Horse Creek.

14-1/4. North Platte.—Road follows the river bottom all day. Wood, water, and grass on the river.

12. Fort Laramie.—Road rough and rocky in places. There are wood and water plenty, and before many trains have passed the grass is good above the fort. Mail station and post-office here, with a sutler's store well stocked with such articles as the traveler wants.

10. North Platte.—Road good, but hilly in places. Camp is in the river bottom, with plenty of wood, water, and grass. Hot spring two miles above here.

14. Bitter Creek.—There are two roads, both of which lead to Salt Lake. The upper or south road is best in the spring or in wet weather. I traveled the lower road. Wood, water, and grass are good.

17-3/4. Horse-shoe Creek.—Fine camp, with excellent wood, water, and grass. The road here forks, one passing to the left over the hills, and the other running nearer the Platte.

20-1/2. North Platte River.—Good road along near the river. Good wood, water, and grass. Road crosses the river at 12-1/2 miles.

20-1/4. North Platte River.—Road crosses the river again, and the camp is two miles above the mouth of La Prell Creek. Good wood, water, and grass.

19. North Platte River.—Road runs along the river, and is smooth and good. The camp is two miles above the crossing of Deer Creek, where there is a blacksmith's shop and store. Good grass, wood, and water.

16. North Platte River.—Good road, with wood, water, and grass at camp.

13. North Platte River.—Good road passing the bridge, where there is a blacksmith's shop and store, also a military station and a mail station. At two miles from camp the road crosses the river on a good ford with rocky bottom. The wood, water, and grass are abundant.

23. Red Buttes, on the North Platte.—Road is very hilly, and in some places sandy; passes Willow Spring, where there is grass and a little wood. Good wood, water, and grass at camp. Mail station here.

11. Sweet Water Creek.—Road leaves the river at the Red Buttes, and strikes over the high rolling prairie. Good grass and water, but little wood at camp.

15. On Sweet Water Creek.—Road passes a blacksmith's shop and store at the bridge six miles from camp, and at 2-1/2 miles from the camp it passes the "Devil's Gate" and a mail station. The Sweet Water here runs between two perpendicular cliffs, presenting a most singular and striking appearance. Take wood at the Gate for camp. Good grass and water at all places on Sweet Water Creek.



20. Sweet Water Creek.—Road muddy after rains, and some bad ravines to cross. Wood, water, and grass of the best quality at camp.

12. Sweet Water Creek.—Road runs along the valley of the Sweet Water, where there is plenty of wood and grass in places, but little wood at the camp noted.

8. On Sweet Water.—Road good; no wood; grass abundant.

20. On Sweet Water.—Road good; no wood.

17. Strawberry Creek.—Little wood; grass and water abundant. Road leaves "Sweet Water," and ascends a very long hill which is very rocky.

20-1/4. South Pass.—Road crosses the dividing ridge, and strikes the Pacific Spring, where there is excellent water and good grass if many cattle have not passed, in which event the traveler had better continue on down the creek which issues from the spring. Sage for fuel; no wood.

15-3/4. Dry Sandy Creek.—Grass scarce; no wood; some sage and greasewood; water brackish, but drinkable; road good. Here the traveler should send ahead and have the best spots of grass found, as it is very scarce throughout this section. Sublett's Cut-off turns off here for Soda Springs and Fort Hall. Take the left for Fort Bridger and Salt Lake City.

15. Little Sandy Creek.—Grass in spots along the creek bottom, and some fuel.

18. Big Sandy Creek.—Grass in detached spots on the creek, and little fuel.

21-1/2. Green River, Upper Ford.—Grass and fuel on the river.

7. Green River, at the Lower Ford.—Good grass and fuel below the ford. Ferry in time of high water. Mail station and grocery.

16. Black's Fork.—Good grass and fuel.

7. Ham's Fork.—United States bridge, no toll. Good grass and fuel.

12. Black's Fork.—Road forks at the crossing of Black's Fork, both roads leading to Fort Bridger. This itinerary is upon the left-hand road, which crosses Black's Fork two miles from Ham's Fork.

13. Smith's Fork.—Good camps along Black's Fork at any place, but the road leaves the stream for several miles. Wood, water, and grass at the confluence of Black's and Smith's Forks.

18-1/4. Fort Bridger.—Good camps above and below the fort. Military post, mail station, and store.

Muddy Creek.—Good grass, wood, and water. Grass short after many trains have passed. It is then necessary to go up the creek to find good grass. Road passes a fine spring 3 miles back.

19. Bear River.—Good camps, with wood, water, and grass.

Good ford, except in very high water. Sulphur Creek two miles back.

19. Red Fork.—In "Echo Canon," two miles below Cashe Cave, good grass and fuel; water plenty.

19-1/4. Weber River.—Good grass, wood, and water. Mail station. United States bridge for high water; no toll.

5-1/4. Spring Branch.—Good camp. Road leaves the river, and takes the left into a valley.

9. Bauchmin's Creek.—Road crosses over a mountain, and descends to the creek, where there is a good camp.

14. Big Canon Creek.—Road crosses Bauchmin's Creek 13 times in 8 miles, then ascends the mountain along a small creek, which is well wooded and good grass.

6. Emigration Creek.—Road leaves Canon Creek, and crosses the two mountains, which are very steep and long. Grass and wood before crossing the "Little Mountain."

10-1/4. Great Salt Lake City.—Forage can be purchased here, as well as most of the articles the traveler may require, at high prices. There is no camping-place within two miles of the city. It is best for those who encamp with animals to cross the Jordan River, or to stop near the mouth of the canon before entering the city.

Total distance from Fort Leavenworth to Salt Lake City, 1168 miles.

* * * * *

V.—From Salt Lake City to Sacramento and Benicia, California.

Miles.

From Salt Lake City to

18. Hait's Ranch.—Good road, and grass abundant until Bear River is crossed.

17-1/4. Ford on Weber River.—Good road, and grass abundant.

15. Point of Mountain.—Spring water warm but pure.

12-3/4. Box Elder Creek.—Excellent water; grass and fuel abundant in the canons.

23. Ferry on Bear River.—Four miles above the usual crossing. Excellent grass.

3/4. West Bank.—Grass not good on the west bank.

6. Small Spring.—Cross Bear River below the mouth of the Mallade.

17-1/2. Blue Springs.—Water and grass scarce, and of poor quality.

21-1/4. Deep Creek.—Heavy sage, but good grass on the right of the road, near sink.

20-1/2. Cedar Springs.—Good grass on the hills, with fine water and wood; rolling country.

10. Rock Creek.—Plenty of grass to the left of the road; good camping-place.

14-1/2. Raft River.—Good camp.

22-1/2. Goose Creek Mountains.—Grass, wood, and water abundant; rough and mountainous country. Road from Fort Bridger comes in here via Soda Springs.

17-3/4. On Goose Creek.—Rough, broken country, with a good road, which runs along the creek for several miles.

28-1/2. Head of 1000 Spring Valley.—Road runs over a rolling, barren section, with but little water except on the river far to the right.

25-3/4. 1000 Spring Valley.—Meadow grass; good fuel scarce. Camps can be found at short intervals along the road.

14. Head of Humboldt River.—Fine camping-places, and road generally good, running over a rolling country.

23. Slough of the Humboldt.—Extensive bottoms of good grass.

20. Humboldt River.—Along the entire course of the Humboldt good grass is found in the bottoms. The road, which follows the bottom, is hard and smooth, but can not be traveled in seasons of very high water, as the bottom overflows. It is then necessary to take the road on the bluffs, where the grass is scarce. The river, when not above a fording stage, can be forded at almost any point, and good camps can be found at short intervals. There are spots along the river bottom where alkaline ponds are frequent. These are poisonous to cattle, and should be avoided by travelers. It is well along this river not to allow animals to drink any water except from the river where it is running.

20. Humboldt River.—The foregoing remarks apply for every camp on the Humboldt River.

22. Humboldt River.—Good camps along the Humboldt Valley.

23. Humboldt River.

13-1/2. Humboldt River.

16-1/2. Humboldt River.

25. Humboldt River.

13-3/4. Humboldt River.

24. Humboldt River.

24-1/2. Humboldt River.

20-1/4. Humboldt River.

18-3/4. Humboldt River.

13-1/2. Humboldt River.

18-1/4. Lawson's Meadows.—The road here forks, the left going by the Carson Valley and Sacramento route, and the right via Goose, Clear, and Rhett lakes, Applegate's Pass of the Cascade Mountains, into Rogue River Valley, Fort Law, Oregon Territory, Yreka, Fort Jones, Fort Reading, and Sacramento River.

33-1/2. On Humboldt River.—Grass and water poor all the distance to the Sink of the Humboldt.

19-1/2. Sink of Humboldt River.—The water at the Sink is strongly impregnated with alkali; the road generally is good. Travelers should not allow their stock to drink too freely of this water.

26. Head Sink of Humboldt.—Road good.

45. Carson River.—Road crosses the desert, where there is no water for stock, but there is a well where travelers can purchase water for drinking. This part of the road should be traveled in the cool of the day and at night. Grass good, also the water.

2. Carson River.—Good bunch-grass near the road.

30. Carson River.—26 miles of desert; poor grass.

14. Eagle Ranch.—Good grass and water.

13. Reese's Ranch.—Good grass and water.

12. Williams' Ranch.—Very good water and grass.

15. Hope Valley.—Road rough and rocky.

3. Near Sierra.—Good camp, with water and grass.

7. First Summit.—Road rough and rocky; good water; grass scarce.

2. Second Summit.—Road mountainous and very steep; snow nearly all the year.

10. Lakes.—Good camp.

12. Leek Springs.—Good grass near the road.

10. Trader's Creek.—Grass and fuel scarce.

12. Sly Park.—Grass and fuel near the road.

Forty Mile House.—Water plenty; grass scarce.

Sacramento Valley.—Water plenty; purchase forage.

Sacramento City.—Water plenty; purchase forage.

Total distance from Salt Lake City to Benicia, 973 miles.

* * * * *

At the Big Meadows, 23 miles from the Sink of the Humboldt, travelers should make a halt of a day or two to rest and recruit their animals and to cut grass for crossing the desert, as this is the last good camping-place until reaching Carson River. The ground near this place is boggy, and animals should be watered with buckets. The camping-ground here is on the right bank of the river, and about half a mile to the left of the main road. The water is in a slough, near its head, where will be found some springs which run off a short distance, but soon sink.

The road across the desert is very sandy, especially toward the western extremity. Twenty miles from the Sink of the Humboldt there are four wells. About half a mile east of the mail station the road leading to the wells turns to the right, where water can be purchased for from one to two shillings for each man and beast.

At 9-1/2 miles beyond the mail station, on the desert, a road turns off from the main trace toward a very high sandy ridge, and directly upon the top of this ridge is the crater of an extinct volcano, at the bottom of which is a salt lake. Upon the extreme north end of this lake will be found a large spring of fresh water, sufficient for 1000 animals. From thence to "Ragtown," on Carson River, is three miles.

I would advise travelers, when their animals become exhausted before reaching this water, to take them out of harness and drive them to this place to recruit. There is some grass around the lake.

This desert has always been the most difficult part of the journey to California, and more animals have probably been lost here than at any other place. The parts of wagons that are continually met with here shows this most incontestably.

* * * * *

VI.—From Great Salt Lake City to Los Angeles and San Francisco, California.

Miles.

Salt Lake City to

20-5/8. Willow Creek.—Good grass.

14. American Creek.—Good grass.

11-1/2. Provo City.—Town.

7-1/4. Hobble Creek.—Good camp.

6. Spanish Fork.—Good camp.

5. Peteetneet.—Good camp.

25. Salt Creek.—Several small streams between. Good camp.

18-5/8. Toola Creek.—Ford. No wood; grass good.

6-1/4. Sevier River.—Road is sandy, passing over a high ridge. Good camp.

25-1/2. Cedar Creek.—Road rather mountainous and sandy. Good grass and wood.

17-1/2. Creek.—This is the fourth stream south of Sevier River. Road crosses two streams. Good camp.

3-5/8. Willow Flats.—The water sinks a little east of the road.

25. Spring.—Good grass and water.

22-1/4. Sage Creek.—Grass poor; wood and water.

5-1/8. Beaver Creek.—Good wood, water, and grass.

27-1/4. North Canon Creek.—In Little Salt Lake Valley. Good grass; no wood. The road is rough and steep for six miles.

5-3/8. Creek.—Good wood, water, and grass.

6-3/4. Creek.—Good wood, water, and grass.

12-7/8. Cottonwood Creek.—Good grass and water.

9. Cedar Springs.—Good camp.

23. Pynte Creek.—Good grass one mile up the canon.

9. Road Springs.—Road is rough; good camp.

16. Santa Clara.—Road descending and rough; poor grass. From this point to Cahoon Pass look out for Indians.

17-1/8. Camp Springs.—Two miles before reaching the springs the road leaves the Santa Clara. Good grass.

22-7/8. Rio Virgin.—Road crosses over the summit of a mountain. Good road; grass poor.

39-5/8. Rio Virgin.—Road runs down the Rio Virgin, crossing it ten times. Grass good down the river.

19-5/8. Muddy Creek.—Road for half a mile is very steep and sandy. Good camp.

52-5/8. Las Vegas.—Water is sometimes found 2-1/2 miles west of the road in holes 23 miles from the Muddy, and some grass about a mile from the road. Good camp.

5. On Vegas.—Road runs up the river. Good grass.

17. Cottonwood Spring.—Poor grass.

29-3/4. Cottonwood Grove.—No grass. Water and grass can be found four miles west by following the old Spanish trail to a ravine, and thence to the left in the ravine one mile.

21-3/4. Resting Springs.—Good grass and water. Animals should be rested here before entering the desert.

7. Spring.—The spring is on the left of the road, and flows into Saleratus Creek. Animals must not be allowed to drink the Saleratus water.

14-1/8. Salt Springs.—Poor grass and no fresh water.

38-3/4. Bitter Springs.—Good road; poor grass.

30-3/4. Mohave River.—Good road and good grass.

51-1/2. On the Mohave.—Last ford. Good grass all the way up the Mohave.

17. Cahoon Pass.—At the summit.

10. Camp.—Road bad down the canon.

11-1/2. Coco Mongo Ranch.

10. Del Chino Ranch.—Williams.

19-3/8. San Gabriel River.

6. San Gabriel Mission.

8-1/4. Pueblo de los Angeles.

65-3/4. Santa Clara River.—On the Coast Route. Good camps to San Jose.

7-1/2. Buena Ventura Mission and River.—Road here strikes the Pacific shore.

26. Santa Barbara.—Town.

45-3/4. San Yenness River.—At the Mission.

78-7/8. Santa Margareta.—Old Mission.

28-3/8. San Miguel.—Old Mission.

24-3/4. San Antonio River.

26-3/4. Rio del Monterey.

15-5/8. Solida Mission.—At the ford of Rio del Monterey.

37-1/2. San Juan Mission.

33. San Jose Pueblo.

75. San Francisco.

* * * * *

VII.—From Fort Bridger to the "City of Rocks." From Captain Handcock's Journal.

Miles.

Fort Bridger to

9. Little Muddy Creek.—Water brackish in pools along the creek; tall bunch-grass; sage for fuel. Road runs over a barren section, is rough, and passes one steep hill.

12-1/3. Big Muddy Creek.—The road, with the exception of two or three bad gullies, is good for ten miles; it then follows the Big Muddy bottom, which is flat and boggy. The camp is three miles above the crossing. Some grass; sage for fuel.

14-1/5. Small Branch of the Muddy Creek.—Cross the river in three miles at a bad ford. A mile above camp the grass is good. Road generally good.

19-1/2. On Small Creek.—Road continues up the Muddy 9-1/2 miles to its head. It then ascends to the divide between Bear and Green Rivers, probably 800 feet, in 1-3/5 miles. The descent on the other side is about the same. The road passes many fine springs. At one and two miles back it passes points of hills, where it is very rough. Good grass and sage at camp.

8-9/10. Bear River.—Bad creek to cross near the camp; thence to Bear River Valley the road is good. It then follows down the river, crossing Willow Creek. Good camp, with a large, fine spring.

17. Bear River.—Good road along the river; plenty of wood, water, and grass at all points.

Foot of Grant's Mountain.—Road runs along Bear River; at 2-1/2 miles strikes Smith's Fork, a rapid trout stream. The road crosses the lower ford. A few miles farther on is a bad slough, which can be avoided by taking a round on the hills. Cross Thomas's Fork on a bridge, also a slough near it; toll $2.00 for each team and wagon. The road then leaves Bear River Valley, and turns over a very steep hill. Good grass, wood, and water.

12. Bear River.—Road ascends Grant's Mountain 1200 feet in 1-1/2 miles—double teams—then descends again into Bear River Valley at 4-4/5 miles. Good wood, water, and grass.

17-2/5. Indian Creek.—Road crosses eight fine spring branches; camp is on a beautiful trout stream. Good wood, water, and grass.

11. Spring near Bear River.—Road is hilly, crossing two spring branches. Good wood, water, and grass. The camp is on the left and near the road.

11. Bear River.—At 6-7/10 miles the road strikes a large group of springs called "Soda Springs," and here crosses Pine Creek, on the left bank of which is a saleratus lake. Soon after it strikes the main springs, and after crossing another creek the "Steam-boat Spring" may be seen in the bed of the river.

15. "Port Neuf," or Rock Creek.—At 2-3/10 miles the road leaves Bear River near where it runs through a canon with high bluffs on each side. At this point the California and Fort Hall roads separate. The California road (called Hudspeth's Cut-off) then crosses a valley between the Bear River and Port Neuf River Mountains, 9 miles. No water from camp to camp. Good camp.

15. Marsh Creek.—About two miles above the main road the creek can be forded; a road leads to it from the descent into the valley. Road good; water and grass plenty; no wood.

16-1/5. Paunack Creek.—First part of the road is hilly; the remainder good. Good camp.

7-1/5. Mallade River.—At 7-1/5 miles the road crosses the Mallade River. Good camp 140 miles from Salt Lake City. Good road.

22-3/10. Small Creek.—The road ascends a ridge through a canon, and descends to a valley on the other side. From the camp to the summit of the ridge is 6-1/5 miles. The descent is 3-7/10 miles. It then crosses a valley 8 miles wide, and strikes a canon which leads to the top of a hill over a rough road. Plenty of wood, water, and grass at camp, but no water between this and the last camp.

9-3/5. Small Creek.—Road after five miles strikes a canon with a long but gentle ascent. Two miles from the entrance of this canon is a spring branch. There is wood and some grass and water at this place.

11-1/5. Spring Branch.—The road passes through a canon, and at 5 miles strikes the head of a spring branch, which it follows down 2-1/2 miles to the junction with a larger branch, which is bridged. At nine tenths of a mile another fork enters. Grass very fine here. Road follows down this across the main branch, and the camp is 2 miles below. Good camp.

18-1/2. Decassure Creek, or Raft River.—Road continues down the creek 2-3/10 miles, and crosses, then ascends by a steep hill to an elevated sage plain, leaving the creek at 11-4/5 miles, and passes a slough with water. Good camp.

17-9/10. Spring Branch.—The road crosses the creek near the last camp, and follows up a valley, crossing in five miles several spring branches. At 2-9/10 miles it crosses the creek again, and follows up the valley two miles farther, then crosses a high sage plain 8-9/10 miles long, when it strikes a spring 150 yards to the left of the road, where there is an excellent camp in a beautiful valley.

10. Junction of Salt Lake City Road.—Road passes several small branches in 3 miles, then commences ascending through a canon which, in 2-1/5 miles, leads to the entrance to the "City of Rocks," and passes through these for three miles. It then crosses a ridge, leaving the City of Rocks, and at ten miles from last camp intersects the road from "Salt Lake City." At 1-2/5 miles beyond this a road leads off to the right to a spring branch, 3 miles, where there is a good camp near the foot of Goose Creek Mountain. From this point California travelers can refer to the itinerary of the route from Salt Lake City to Sacramento.

* * * * *

VIII.—From Soda Springs to the City of Rocks, known as Hudspeth's Cut-off.

Miles.

Soda Springs to

20. Bear River.—The road runs down Bear River, crossing some small streams. Good camp.

10. Portner Creek.—Camp at the head of the creek. Good wood, water, and grass.

12. Fork of Portner Creek.—Good camp.

15. Pauack Creek.—Road crosses a summit. Good road and camp.

12. Snake Spring.—Good camp.

12. Utha Spring.—Good camp.

15. Decassure Creek.—Road crosses a small stream; rather bad crossing. Good camp.

18. City of Rocks.—Junction of Salt Lake road. Good camp.

* * * * *

IX.—Sublets Cut-off, from the junction of the Salt Lake and Fort Hall Roads.

Miles.

Junction to

7. Big Sandy.

44. Green River.—From the Big Sandy to Green River (upper road) there is an abundance of grass in places along the road, but no water.

6. Small Creek.—The road runs up the creek. Good grass.

4. On the Creek.—Good grass and water.

12. Small Spring.—The spring is on the left of the road. Good grass.

9. Ham's Fork.—Good wood, water, and grass.

6. Spring.—On the summit of a mountain. Good grass.

6. Muddy Creek.—Wood, water, and grass.

10. Spring.—In Bear River Valley. Good wood, water, and grass.

6. Smith's Fork.—In Bear, River Valley. Good wood, water; and grass.

10. Tomaus' Fork.—Road runs down Bear River. Good wood, water, and grass.

7. Spring Creek.—Wood, water, and grass.

7. Smith's Ford.—Road crosses over a spur of the mountain; long and gradual ascent; descent rather abrupt. Good wood, water, and grass.

8. Telleck's Fork.—Road runs down Bear River. Good camp.

4. Small Creek.—Good camp.

4. Small Creek.—Good camp.

7. Small Creek.—Good camp.

12. Soda Springs.—Left side of the road, among some cedars, is a good camp.

Here take the left-hand road to California, called Hudspeth's Cut-off.

* * * * *

X.—From Lawson's Meadows, on the Humboldt River, to Fort Reading, via Rogue River Valley, Fort Lane, Oregon Territory, Yreka, and Fort Jones.

Miles.

Lawson's Meadows to

18-1/2. Mountain Spring.—Road leaves the Humboldt, and takes a northwesterly course 12 miles to a spring of good water. Good bunch-grass to the left of the road, and a small spring at the camp. The road is plain on leaving the river, but after a few days it becomes faint. Road from this point passes over a desert country for about 60 miles, without good water or much grass.

38-1/2. Black Rock Spring.—Road level and hard, with little vegetation. In 14 miles pass springs, but the water is not good. In 16 miles the road passes a slough which is difficult to cross; water not good, but can be given to cattle in small quantities. In five miles from this the road passes Black Rock, mentioned by Colonel Fremont in his trip from Columbia River in 1843-4. Three miles farther pass boiling springs, very hot, but good cooled. Grass pretty good.

20-1/4. Mountain Rill.—Water good; bunch-grass in the vicinity. In eight miles' travel the road passes a beautiful creek of pure water, with good grass.

5-3/4. Lake (Marshy).

10-1/2. High Rock Canon.—This canon is 25 miles long, with wild and curious scenery. Road crosses the creek frequently, and the mud is bad. In the autumn the road is good.

14-3/4. High Rock Canon.

Small Creek.—Beautiful country, with the greatest abundance of water and grass; also fuel.

25-1/4. Pine Grove Creek.—Road passes over an interesting country, well supplied with wood, water, and grass, and passes around the south end of a salt lake.

18-1/2. West Slope of Sierra.—Road passes over the mountain, which is steep but not rocky, then descends to a small creek of good water which runs into Goose Lake. Good grass and fuel. Look out for the Indians, as they are warlike and treacherous here.

7-3/4. East shore of Goose Lake.—Excellent camp.

16-1/4. West shore of Goose Lake.—This is a beautiful sheet of fresh water; great quantities of water-fowl resort to this lake.

16-1/4. Slough Springs.—The road passes over a very rocky divide, covered with loose volcanic debris, very hard for animals, and wearing to their feet. They should be well shod before attempting the passage.

18-1/2. Marshy Lake.—Road difficult for wagons.

15. Clear Lake.—Beautiful lake of pure water, with good grass around its shore.

25-1/4. East shore of Rhett's Lake.—Road tolerable over a rolling, rocky country, between lakes. The road crosses Lost River over a natural bridge, on a solid, smooth ledge of rock.

19. West shore of Rhett's Lake.—Plenty of wood, water, and grass along this road.

21. Klamath River.—Road leaves Rhett's Lake, and enters the forest and mountains; tolerably good. Good camp.

15-1/4. Cascade Mountains.—The road passes over high mountains, through lofty pine-trees. Camp is at Summit Meadows. Good water and grass, also fuel.

14-1/4. Western slope of Cascade Mountains.—Rough roads.

19-1/4. Rogue River Valley.—Road descends into the settlements in six miles, where there is a lovely fertile valley, well settled with farmers.

23-3/4. Fort Lane.—Near "Table Rock," on Rogue River, eight miles from Jacksonville. Dragoon post.

22-3/4. Rogue River Valley.—Good camp.

18. Siskiyou Mountains.—Road crosses the Siskiyou Mountains, and is difficult for wagons.

18. Yreka.—Flourishing mining city.

18. Fort Jones.—Infantry post, in Scott's Valley.

20. Scott's Mountain.—Good camp at the foot of the mountain. Road passes over the mountains, but is impassable for wagons.

90. Shasta City.—Good grass, wood, and water.

180. Sacramento City.

* * * * *

XI.—From Soda Springs to Fort Wallah Wallah and Oregon City, Oregon, via Fort Hall.

Miles.

Soda Springs to

25. Portner Creek.—Good camp. Take the right-hand road.

10. Ross's Creek.—Good camp.

10. Fort Hall Valley.—Good camp. Road runs down the creek.

8. Snake River.—Good camp. Road crosses the river bottom.

5. Fort Hall.

15. Small Branch.—Camp is three miles below the crossing of Port Neuf River, which is fordable. Good wood, water, and grass.

10. American Falls.—Good camp.

13. Raft River.—Road rough and rocky. Sage for fuel; grass scarce.

17. Bend of Swamp Creek.—Grass scarce.

20. On Snake River.—Road crosses Swamp and Goose Creeks. Wood on the hills; grass short.

25. Rock Creek.—Road crosses one small creek, and is very rough and rocky for several miles, when it enters a sandy region, where the grass is scarce; sage plenty, and willows on the creek.

24. Snake River.—Road crosses several small branches. There is but little grass except in narrow patches along the river bottom.

26. Fishing Falls.—Road very crooked and rough, crossing two small streams.

29. Snake River.—Road crosses several small creeks, but leaves the main river to the north, and runs upon an elevated plateau. Good grass at camp.

16. Snake River (ford).—Road tortuous; ford good in low water.

19. Small Branch.—Road crosses Snake River, and follows up a small branch, leaving the river to the left. Good grass. Road ascends to a high plateau, which it keeps during the whole distance.

26. River "Aux Rochers."—Road passes Hot Springs, and is rough. Wood, water, and grass plenty.

22. Small Creek.—Road crosses two small branches, and is very rocky, but at camp grass, wood, and water are abundant.

23. Rio Boise.—Road crosses one small creek, and follows along the Boise River. Good wood, water, and grass.

26. Fort Boise.—Road follows the south bank of Boise River to the fort.

2. Fort Boise.—Road crosses Boise River. Good ford at ordinary stages. Grass good in the river bottom.

20. River "Aux Matthews."—Good road. Grass abundant, but coarse; wood and water plenty.

27. Snake River.—Road passes over a rough country. Grass scarce and of a poor quality.

20. Burnt River.—Road leaves Snake River, and takes across Burnt River, following up the north side of this to the camp. It is mountainous and rough, but the grass is good, and there is wood along the river.

22. Burnt River.—Road continues up the river, and is still rough and mountainous. Grass and wood plenty.

26. Small Branch.—Road passes over a divide to "Powder River." It is still rough, but getting better. The grass is good.

13. Powder River.—Good road; grass plenty.

21. Creek.—Road passes a divide, crossing several small streams, and is smooth, with plenty of grass and fuel.

20. Creek.—Road crosses one small branch, and is rather rough. The grass and fuel are good and abundant.

21. Creek.—Road follows down the creek for ten miles, then turns up a small branch, and is good. There is plenty of grass and fuel.

12. Branch.—Road crosses a divide and strikes another branch.

5. Small branch of the Umatilah River.—Good road, with plenty of wood and grass.

16. Branch of Wallah Wallah River.—Wood, water, and grass.

18. Wallah Wallah River.—Wood, water, and grass. Columbia River at Fort Wallah Wallah.—Wood, water, and grass.

10. Butler Creek.—Good camp.

18. Wells's Spring.—Good camp.

12. Willow Creek.—Good camp.

13. Cedar Spring.—Good camp.

6. John Day's River.—Good camp.

5. Forks of Road.—No camping. Left-hand road for wagons, and right-hand for pack trains. This itinerary takes the left.

10. Ouley's Camp.—Good camp.

19. Soot's River.—Good camp.

6. Fall River.—Good camp.

10. Utah's River.—Good camp.

18. Soot's River.—Good camp.

6. Soot's River.—Good camp. Road follows up the river, crossing it several times.

16. Sand River Fork.—Good grass a mile and a half to the left of the road.

8. Good Camp.

15. Royal Hill Camp.—Good camp.

7. Sandy River.—But little grass.

45. Down the River.—Good camps all the distance.

25. Oregon City.—Good camps all the distance.

75. Salem.—Good camps all the distance.

* * * * *

XII.—Route for pack trains from John Day's River to Oregon City.

Miles.

John Day's River to

17. Columbia River.—From John Day's River to the forks of the road, and thence by the right-hand fork to the Columbia. Good camp.

2-1/2. Soot's River Ferry.—Good camp.

15. Dalles.—Good camp.

25. Dog River.—Good camp.

15. Cascade Mountains.—One bad place.

9. Ouley's Rock.—Good camp.

20. Image Plain Ferry.—Good camp.

15. Portland.—Good camp.

12. Oregon City.—Good camp.

* * * * *

XIII.—From Indianola and Powder-horn to San Antonio, Texas.

Miles.

Powder-horn to

4. Indianola, Texas.—Steamers run from New Orleans five times a week to Powder-horn.

14. Chocolate Creek.—Good grass and water; fuel scarce. Road passes over a low, flat country, which in wet weather is heavy and muddy.

12. Grove.—Grove of oak; good water and grass. The road passes over a hog-wallow prairie, which is very muddy, and almost impassable for loaded teams after rains. The grass is abundant every where in this section.

12-1/2. Victoria.—The road is good, passing along near the east bank of the Guadalupe River. The country is thickly settled with farmers, who sell grain at reasonable rates. Grass abundant, also fuel.

34. Yorktown.—Road crosses the Guadalupe River on a bridge; toll one dollar for a six-mule team. It then crosses a low bottom for three miles; from thence the road is good, over a rolling country, with plenty of wood, water, and grass.

33. Cibello River.—Good road; wood, water, and grass plenty.

35. San Antonio.—Good road, with plenty of wood, water, and grass along the road. The Cibello is fordable at ordinary stages. The traveler can procure any thing he may need at Victoria and at San Antonio.

* * * * *

XIV.—Wagon-road from San Antonio, Texas, to El Paso, N.M., and Fort Yuma, Cal.

[Distances in miles and hundredths of a mile.]

Miles.

San Antonio to

6.41. Leona.

18.12. Castroville.

11.00. Hondo.

14.28. Rio Seco.

12.50. Sabinal.

13.46. Rio Frio.

15.12. Nueces.

10.27. Turkey Creek.

15.33. Elm Creek.—All good camps, with abundance of wood, water, and grass. Country mostly settled, and the road very good, except in wet weather, from San Antonio to Elm Creek.

7.00. Fort Clarke.—Good grass, wood, and water. Road level and good.

7.00. Piedra Pinta,—Good grass, wood, and water.

8.86. Maverick's Creek.—Good grass, wood, and water.

12.61. San Felipe.—Good grass, wood, and water.

10.22. Devil's River.—First crossing. Good wood, water, and grass.

18.27. California Springs.—Grass and water poor.

18.39. Devil's River.—Second crossing. Grass poor.

19.50. Devil's River.—Good camp. The only water between Devil's River and Live Oak Creek is at Howard's Springs. The road is very rough in places.

44.00. Howard's Springs.—Grass scarce; water plenty in winter; wood plenty.

30.44. Live Oak Creek.—Good water and grass. The road passes within 1-1/2 miles of Fort Lancaster.

7.29. Crossing of Pecos River.—Bad water and bad camp. The water of the Pecos can be used.

5.47. Las Moras.—Good water, grass, and wood. The road is rough on the Pecos.

32.85. Camp on the Pecos River.—Wood and grass scarce.

16.26. Escondido Creek.—At the crossing. Water good; little grass or wood.

8.76. Escondido Spring.—Grass and water good; little grass.

19.40. Comanche Creek.—Grass and water good; little grass.

8.88. Leon Springs.—Grass and water good; no wood.

33.86. Barela Spring.—Grass and water good; wood plenty.

28.00. Fort Davis.—Good camp. From Fort Davis to Eagle Springs there is an ascent, and one of the very best of roads.

18.42. Barrel Springs.—Water good; grass and wood fair.

13.58. Dead Man's Hole.—Good wood and water; grass scarce.

32.83. Van Horne's Wells.—No grass or wood, but they will be found two miles back.

19.74. Eagle Springs.—Grass and wood poor; water about half a mile from camp, in a narrow canon.

32.03. Mouth of Canon "de los Camenos."—The road is rather rough. From here to Fort Bliss, opposite El Paso, the road runs near the river, and camps may be made any where. The wood, water, and grass are good at all points.

61.13. San Eluzario.—Mexican town.

9.25. Socorro.—Mexican town.

15.00. Fort Bliss, at El Paso.—United States military post and Mexican town.

Total distance from San Antonio to El Paso, 654.27 miles.

* * * * *

Miles.

El Paso to

22. Cottonwood.—From El Paso to Messilla Valley, in the Gadsden Purchase, the road runs up the east bank of the Rio Grande to Fort Fillmore (N.M.), where it crosses the river into the Messilla Valley.

22. Fort Fillmore.

6. La Messilla.

65. Cook's Spring.—From Messilla Valley to Tucson the road is remarkably good, with good grass and water. The streams on this section are the Mimbres and San Pedro, both fordable, and crossed with little trouble. The Apache Indians are generally met with in this country. There is a flouring-mill two miles below El Paso, where flour can be purchased at very reasonable prices.

18. Rio Mimbres.

17. Ojo la Vaca.

10. Ojo de Ynez.

34. Peloncilla.

18. San Domingo.

23. Apache Springs.

9. Cabesas Springs.

26. Dragon Springs.

18. Quercos Canon.—Bunch-grass will be found sufficient for traveling purposes along this section of the road between El Paso and Tucson.

6. San Pedro Crossing.

20. Cienega.

13. Cienega Creek.

20. Mission of San Navier.

8. Tucson.—Total distance from El Paso to Tucson, 305 miles.

5. Pico Chico Mountain.

35. First Camp on Gila River.

29. Maricopa Wells.—The Maricopa Wells are at the western extremity of a fertile valley occupied by Pincos Indians, who cultivate corn and other grain.

40. Tezotal.—Across Jornada. There is but little grass here, but in the season the mesquite leaves are a good substitute.

10. Ten Mile Camp.

15. Oatman's Flat.—First crossing of the Gila River.

25. Second Crossing of the Gila.—The traveler can generally find sufficient grass in the hills along the valley of the Gila.

32. Peterman's Station.

20. Antelope Peak.

24. Little Corral.

16. Fort Yuma.

The distance from El Paso to Fort Yuma is 644 miles.



* * * * *

XV.—From Fort Yuma to San Diego, California.

[Distances in miles and hundredths of a mile.]

Miles.

Fort Yuma to

10.00. Los Algodones.—Along the Colorado.

10.00. Cook's Wells.—Here commences the great desert; water nowhere good or reliable until arriving at Carizo Creek. The points named are where deep wells have been dug. "New River," though usually set down, is a dry arroyo. The surface of the desert for seven miles on the eastern side is drifting sand and heavy for wagons. Then comes a section in the centre of the desert that is hard and level. On the west side there is about three miles of a mud flat.

21.90. Alamo Rancho.

16.40. Little Laguna.

4.50. New River.

5.80. Big Laguna.

26.40. Carizo Creek.—Water good; cane and brush for fuel, and they afford some forage for the animals; no grass.

16.60. Vallecito.—Grass poor; wood and water sufficient.

17.80. San Felipe.—Grass poor; wood scarce; water good.

15.80. Warner's Ranch.—The road passes through a beautiful oak grove, where there is an abundance of grass and water. This is the summit of the mountain. At the Ranch the grass is poor, and no wood. The water is good. The oak grove terminates six miles from Warner's.

10.30. Santa Isabel.—Good grass, wood, and water. This was an old Spanish mission, but is now occupied by some Americans and Indians.

11.40. Laguna.—Two miles from last camp is a good camping-place. The road passes over some steep hills, not high. This is the best camp on the road.

12.00. San Pasquel.—For the first nine miles the road is level and good to the top of the mountain, where there is a good camping-place, with wood, water, and grass; thence the road descends a very steep hill. The camp is on the east side of the brook, near Soto's house.

18.80. Parrasquitas.—The road passes a good camp three miles from San Pasqual. Wood, Water, and grass at Parrasquitas.

8.00. Fisher's House.—The road passes over several hills, and at four miles is a good camping-place. Wood, water, and grass at camp.

San Diego, California.—When animals are to be kept a considerable time at San Diego, they should be taken four or five miles up the river, as the grass is poor near the town.

Total distance from Fort Yuma to San Diego, 217 miles.

* * * * *

XVI.—From El Paso, New Mexico, to Fort Yuma, California, via Santa Cruz.

[Distances in miles and hundredths of a mile.]

Miles.

From El Paso to

26.10. Samalayuca.—Spring, with grass and wood.

38.00. Salado.—Bad water, with little grass and wood.

24.75. Santa Maria.—Good grass, wood, and water.

27.50. Mines of San Pedro.—Bad water; little grass or water.

19.20. Correlitos.—Good water, grass, and wood.

20.00. Janos.—Good water, grass, and wood.

12.00. Pelatudo.—Good water, grass, and wood.

30.00. San Francisco.—Water half a mile south of the road.

18.00. San Louis.—Good water, grass, and wood.

35.00. San Bernardino.—Good water, grass, and wood.

30.00. Ash Creek.—Grass, wood, and water.

37.00. Head of San Pedro.—Grass and water.

24.00. Santa Cruz.—Good grass, wood, and water.

31.00. Cocospe.—Much grass; 10 or 12 miles without water. Leave Santa Cruz River at old Rancho San Lazaro. No water till reaching the head of San Ignacio, except at nine miles, a spring one mile west of the road.

26.00. Hemores.—From Cocospe to Santa Anna follow down the San Ignacio, and in many places there is wood and grass. Grass is much better at three miles from the river. At the foot of the hills there is an abundance of grama-grass.

5.00. Terrenati.

4.00. San Ignacio.

5.20. Madina.

5.20. San Lorenzo.

2.60. Santa Marta.

5.20. Santa Anna.

26.00. Alamita.—Plenty of grass. Leave the river 10 or 12 miles from Santa Anna, and no water thence to Alamita, which is a small rancho.

31.20. Altar.—No water; grass abundant.

13.00. Laguna.—Small water-hole; grass scanty and poor.

52.00. Sonia.—Sometimes water is found 25 miles from the Laguna, south of the road. There is a well at Sonia in the town, and sometimes water in a hole 300 yards south of the town, 100 yards west of the road.

10.40. El Paso.—Well at El Paso supplying 100 animals; water muddy and brackish; grass poor.

52.00. Sonorita.—No water on the road; at Sonorita are several brackish springs. Grass poor; bad camping-place; saltpetre at the springs.

Quita Oaquita.—No water on the road. Saline spring at camp, better than at Sonorita, but the grass is not so good.

10.40. Agua Salado.—Water uncertain; grass poor.

23.40. Los Pleyes.—Water only in the rainy season, one mile west of the road, hidden by bushes and difficult to find. Grass pretty good.

28.60. Cabeza Prieta.—Natural tenajas in a ravine two miles from the road; follow a wagon-track up this ravine between a black and a red mountain. The water is good and abundant; grass tolerable.

31.00. Poso.—No water on the road until reaching Poso. Here it is abundant on the east side of the road; grass good one mile west.

13.00. Rio Gila.—But little good grass.

26.00. Fort Yuma, at the crossing of the Colorado River.—But little good grass for several miles.

Total distance from El Paso to Fort Yuma, 756 miles.

* * * * *

XVII.—From Westport, Missouri, to the gold diggings at Pike's Peak and "Cherry Creek" N.T., via the Arkansas River.

Miles.

Westport to

4-3/4. Indian Creek.—The road runs over a beautiful country. Indian Creek is a small wooded stream, with abundance of grass and water.

8-3/4. Cedar Creek.—The road passes over a fine country, and there is a good camping-place at Cedar Creek.

8-1/2. Bull Creek.—The road is smooth and level, with less wood than before. Camping good.



9-1/2. Willow Springs.—At nine miles the road passes "Black Jack Creek," where there is a good camping-place. The road has but little wood upon it at first, but it increases toward the end of the march. The road is level for some distance, but becomes more rolling, and the country is covered with the finest grass. Good camp at one mile from the main road.

20-1/4. 110-Mile Creek.—The road traverses the same character of country as yesterday, but with less woodland, is very smooth, and at 9 and 12 miles passes "Rock Creeks," which have no running water in a dry season. Good camp.

22-1/2. Prairie Chicken Creek.—At eight miles the road crosses Dwissler Creek, which is a fine little stream; four miles farther First Dragoon Creek, and at one mile farther the Second Dragoon Creek, both fine streams, well wooded, and good camping-places. Good camp.

20. "Big Rock Creek."—At one mile the road crosses a small wooded branch. Three miles beyond it crosses "Elm Creek," where a good camping-place may be found. At 7 miles it crosses 142-Mile Creek, and at 13 miles it crosses Bluff Creek, where there is a good camping-place. Good camp.

20. "Council Grove," on Elm Creek.—Road passes "Big John Spring" at 13 miles, and is smooth and good. A fine camp is found three fourths of a mile beyond the "Grove," on Elm Creek, with abundance of wood, water, and grass.

16. Diamond Spring.—At-eight miles the road crosses Elm Creek, and passes over a section similar to that east of Council Grove. It is fine in dry weather, but muddy after heavy rains. Good camp at Diamond Spring.

16. Lost Spring.—One mile from camp the road passes a wooded creek. From thence there is no more wood or permanent water until arriving at camp. Take wood here for cooking, as there is not a tree or bush in sight from Lost Spring. The country becomes more level, with grass every where. The road is muddy in wet weather.

15-3/4. Cottonwood Creek.—Road continues over a prairie country, sensibly rising and improving. Wood, water, and grass at camp.

22. Turkey Creek.—The road is good, and at 18 miles passes Little Turkey Creek. No wood, and the water poor at camp; grass good.

23. Little Arkansas River.—The road runs over a level prairie, and at 3-1/2 miles passes "Big Turkey Creek," with the Arkansas River Valley in sight all day. After rains there are frequent pools of water along the road. Good camp.

20. "Big Cow" Creek.—The road passes for ten miles over a level prairie, to Charez Creek, which is a bushy gully; thence six miles to Little Cow Creek, which is a brushy stream, with here and there a tree. Good camp here to the left of the road, near a clump of trees. "Prairie-dog towns" commence to be seen. Road very level. Buffalo-grass here.

20. Big Bend of the Arkansas.—The road at 12 miles strikes the sand-hills of the Arkansas River. They are soon passed, however, and the level river bottom is reached. The river has a rapid current flowing over a quicksand bed. The road is generally good from the last camp. Wood, water, and grass at camp.

7. Walnut Creek.—The road is good. Cool springs at this camp; good grass and wood.

21. Head of Coon Creek.—At five miles the road forks, one following the river, the other a "short cut" "dry route" to Fort Atkinson, where they unite on the river. The country rises for ten miles on the dry route, then descends to the river, and is covered with the short buffalo-grass. No wood at camp.

18. Arkansas River.—The road passes over an undulating and uninteresting prairie, with but little vegetation. The water in dry weather is in pools.

19. Arkansas River, at Fort Atkinson.—The road runs over a similar country to that of yesterday, with no wood near; plenty of buffalo-chips for cooking, and good grass.

18-3/4. Arkansas River.—At 4-1/2 miles the road ascends a bluff covered with thick buffalo-grass. On the river is heavy bottom-grass. At 17 miles pass a ford. Grass good at camp.

19-1/4. Arkansas River.—The road is sandy for 14 miles, but not deep except in places; thence to camp it is good. Good camp.