"Wednesday, 6th January. Kept running for Cape Albany and by 7 P.M. having nearly run into its latitude stood off and on during night. In the morning it was very hazy otherwise would have seen the land. At half-past 9 A.M. saw Cape Albany, bearing west-north-west 10 or 12 miles distance and Cape Danger north-west 16 or 17 miles; both these capes marked with white sandy front and middling high, all the land between is sandy hills and long sandy beach, as also what part of the land we saw stretching into Portland Bay. Ground invariably mixed with shells and brown specks, sometimes a little gravel, till the last time when we had 24 fathoms fine sand. At the time Cape Albany bore 26 or 27 miles. At noon hauled our wind for Harmingar Rock* (* Harbinger.) but owing to heavy sea and wind did not make better than south-east course—the vessel labouring and pitching a great deal.

"Thursday, 7th January. From noon till 5 P.M. strong winds at north-north-east and a confused heavy sea...This weather settled into hard gale at south-west by 7 a tumultuous sea up and we laboured much and lurched very heavy. At 6 A.M. it cleared—set sails, out all reefs intending to make Governor King's Island while this clear weather continued; as it will be seen, unfavourable winds and weather has prevented me either tracing coast from Cape Shanks to Cape Albany, as after making Cape Albany from being able to run a straight course to Harminger Rock; both of these points will be attempted.

"Friday, 8th January. Altitude 145 degrees 07 minutes 15 seconds—this confirmed me that we must have been driven eastward.

"Saturday, 9th January. Saw the loom of the land from the masthead which I take to be Governor King's Island—its southernmost point bore S.W.S. distant 16 miles. We could only see it now and then as the squalls passed over. Kept working to this land which I rather think is part of the same that on the 6th I saw and supposed it to be the northernmost cape, Cape Danger, and another Cape Albany. I...will in making circuit easily know them, both being sandy bluffs.

"Sunday, 10th January. Kept all night working up to land and by 7 A.M. got within 6 miles of the body of the island; kept edging down along it a 4 or 5 miles distance; the land in general high and covered with brush and now and then spots of large trees very tall. At 8 A.M. we saw two rocks we had passed at 7 A.M.—make out exactly like 2 boats under sail, they are both very near the land...As we kept running down along the land I saw a low point of rock make out with a good deal of surf and the land lay so far back that I concluded at least a deep bight must be there—this proved true, as we rounded it the swell of the sea which before was high greatly took off and although the wind blew hard yet as it was off shore...lowered the boat and sent Mr. Bowen and two good hands in her on shore...At half-past 11 the weather looking worse instead of better made a signal for our boat which they noticed and came off—by noon they got on board, and Mr. Bowen reported that wood and excellent water was in abundance, that safe anchorage and good ground was close into the beach—the soil is middling good, in short, it is an excellent place to take shelter in from all worst winds that blow in this country...Latitude of this bight is 40 degrees 00 minutes 09 seconds south and Longitude 143 degrees 57 minutes 45 seconds east.

"Monday, 11th January. Running along shore at a distance of 4 miles at 1 P.M. Saw a rock bearing west distant 10 miles and a low point north-north-west 9 or 10 miles—as we run down, this point still making out made us begin to think that we should here find a bay or harbour. By 2 P.M. we completely opened it and saw it was a bay of large extent and fine shelter...where we came to anchor. Found the tide of flood running to the Westward nearly done (4 P.M.)—the different parts of the bay bore as follows: Elephant Rock* (* (Note in log.) So named from resemblance to that animal.) north by east distant at 5 miles north part of the bay north 1/2 west distant 6 miles—the bottom of bay west-north-west 2 1/2 miles distant and the south point of ditto south-south-east, or 4 miles. I now went on shore, found a good deal of surf on the beach till we got on the southern side...here we landed and the first thing we saw was a number of sea elephants* (* The Phoca proboscidea of Peron.) of an immense size lying asleep on the beach, each of them, Barnes the boatswain's mate told me, would make 8 or 9 barrels of oil; as we rowed down the shore we took them to be bluish rocks. We found along this beach two freshwater lagoons full of those animals which made it taste brackish...We could not get near the upper part of them on account of the number of elephants playing in them both. I named the bay Elephant Bay from this circumstance.

"Tuesday, 12th January. Boat returned on board, they caught 4 badgers and saw several kangaroos, but were not able to get any from the thickness of the brush—they also found feathers of emus and a dead one. Snakes are here, as the skin of one was found. We got several gallons of elephant oil out to-day as a specimen to Government and for our own use...some wood growing here reported different to any seen before...

"Wednesday, 13th January. Received some specimens of wood and some water. At half-past 10 up and run out of bay, hoisted in gig, running down shore; surveyed as well as weather would permit.

"Thursday, 14th January. Fair wind and cloudy. Running along shore 3 or 4 miles off and surveying it. At 4 P.M. having run as far as North-West Point, and seeing a number of breakers ahead, hove to. We could have done nothing by standing on in such weather. At 5 P.M. dropped kedge with the warp to see if that would ride her and found she would ride by it very well, furled sail and pointed yards. The land from Elephant Bay to here is rather low of sandy soil and a very long white sandy beach all this distance. The two sandy capes or rather bluffs are about 20 miles from Elephant Bay and are so remarkable that I think no person could be well mistaken in them. The course to Elephant Bay is nearly south-east by compass; no person need mistake the bay as Elephant Rock lies in the mouth of it about 3 miles from its north part. The bottom is sand gravel mixed with broken shells...At 7 A.M. got nearly as far as the second rocks and breakers, found a very high sea up. At this time saw an island bearing south-west by south. The island presents a bold rocky front to the sea and foul ground—breakers and rocks lie off from it a long way. Not less than 10 miles from here, on looking to the southward, a low island is seen and due south the furthest point of land—it appears altogether rather a dangerous place unless a vessel has a good breeze that can be depended on. A calm with such a current as we found here might chance to run her upon one rock or another...

"Friday, 15th January. Moderate fair weather. At 3 P.M. tacked in shore and at 4 P.M. shortened sail and stood off and on within 2 or 3 miles of the sand bluffs; lowered gig and sent the First Mate in her on shore to examine this part of the island, found the variation to be 8 degrees 54 minutes east. At half-past 6 P.M. the boat got on board. Mr. Bowen told me that there was a very high surf on the beach, that those bluffs were entirely sand, no shells were on the beach—inland he said the soil was good—he found no water here, some kangaroo were seen but could not be got at, the officer shot one but it got away; he said that on going up one of the trees he perceived inland a large sheet of water which he thinks must have some entrance into it from the other side of the island. I rather think it a lagoon or swamp, nevertheless we will give the other side of the island a strict search when wind and weather will permit us to go round.

"Saturday, 16th January. At quarter past 4 A.M. breeze from north-east, hazy weather and rain, stood in for Elephant Rock. At half-past 5 A.M. made sail down the coast of island to the southward, surveying it and sounding every half-hour...From 10 to 11 A.M. standing in for land. The weather at this time cleared a little and from the masthead a low point seemed to form a kind of entrance...into a deep bight or bay, a reef of rocks was also seen to the westward of it. Stood in pretty close along the edge of the reef and sent Mr. Bowen in the gig to overhaul the place. Observed the rocks of this reef to be full of seals, sea horses and elephants. The appearance of this place being favourable...stood further in and perceived it was a deep bay.

"Sunday, 17th January. At 1 P.M. came to anchor—the bottom coarse sand—from where we lay East point of land bore east-north-east distant 10 miles, the Seal Reef south by east 3 or 4 miles...we sounded every part of this place where a vessel would most likely anchor and found it 14 to 7 fathoms. At 2 P.M. Mr. Bowen came off, he brought on board 3 seals with hair of prime fur and told me there was a vast quantity on shore. Elephants are also in abundance and the woods full of kangaroo, emus, badgers, etc., some few shells were found, no water seen as yet. After dinner I went on shore: the brush is very thick which rendered it impossible to get any way in, there is little doubt of plenty of water being here as we in our search started 15 or 20 kangaroo from 30 to 40 pounds weight. An emu was caught by the dog about 50 pounds weight and surprising fat. At one place on this beach an acre of ground at least was covered with elephants of a most amazing size and several were all along the beach and playing in the water. At 7 P.M. I came on board. A sea watch with the proper officer had been set as has been usual ever since we made this island...At midnight the wind increasing made sail out of the bay as I preferred riding out the gale in Elephant Bay. At 11 A.M. came to anchor in Elephant Bay. We have now overhauled and surveyed this island from its north-west and west points to its south-west points being in length about 55 or 60 miles, and although westerly winds that have blown for such a length of time have retarded our voyage yet they have enabled me to strictly search every part of the island between aforementioned points, and should a north-east wind come and remain steady for a few days we will be able to overhaul the remaining part of the island with equal accuracy. Of the advantages to be derived from this fine island I shall say but little, the plain truth is to be seen in this journal. It contains plenty of wood and water, the woods are full of animals and excellent of their kind, the shores are lined with fine oil (if I may be allowed the expression) and this part of the island has two good bays in it well sheltered from all the dangerous winds. A vessel may anchor as I did unless the wind blows from the east, south-east or north-east or north points of the compass. I named this last discovery the Bay of Seals from the number of these animals on the shores of it, and the rocks outside the bay Seal Rocks.

"Monday, 18th January. First and middle parts it blew a gale but with long lulls at times, latter a harder gale with much heavier squalls than I have yet seen in this country (the Western Port gale excepted) and it is with great satisfaction that I am able to say that our little vessel has rode it out as yet with one anchor and half a cable—a proof of the goodness of the holding ground...At 8 the boat brought on board a turn of water and 2 kangaroo were caught—the increase of the gale hindered the boat from returning on shore.

"Tuesday, 19th January. From noon till 4 P.M. the gale continued. By sundown it was moderate weather; the boat returned on board...a wambuck was caught, served it, a swan and a kangaroo to ship's company.

"Thursday, 21st January. A.M. Sent Mr. Bowen in the gig to Elephant Rock with directions to sound all the parts of this bay we did not run over in the vessel.

"Friday, 22nd January. P.M. The boat returned on board. Mr. Bowen found the soundings all the distance from the vessel from 9 to 10 and 11 fathoms and good ground. Close to the Elephant Rock there are 10 fathoms. This rock is about 1 1/2 miles in circumference and it is entirely covered with seals of prime fur some of which the officer brought, there might be 6 or 7,000 seals of different sizes on shore. A.M. Sent boat to Elephant Rock for skins and another for wood and water.

"Saturday, January 23rd. P.M. The launch returned with some sealskins of prime fur and I was told that the Rock was full of mutton-birds, in consequence of this I had the boat on shore and procured 80 or 90 of them, served ditto to the people.

"Sunday, January 24th. Throughout this 24 hours the weather has been remarkably thick and hazy...stood off and on till 4 P.M...then we made some sail to get sight of land if possible before dark and by 8 P.M. saw the north-west point of the Bay of Seals being north by west distant 5 miles, 2 Seal Rocks distant 6 miles north by east...at 2 A.M. found the vessel close to the breakers and a strong ripple of a current with a very confused jump of a sea. Tacked and stood off till daylight. By 6 A.M. we saw the distant looming of the land, bearing north-west, and perceived that all round us...lay rocks and dangerous breakers, one bore south-west (a large rock 3 miles) another south-south-west 3 1/2 another south 4 miles and one west 5 miles, that one which bore south-south-west, John Johnson told me he thought it Harbinger Rock, having seen it when with Mr. Black, commander of the Harbinger. At 8 A.M. made sail to the north-east...At noon strong winds at south hauled her off East.

"Before I close this log it may be proper to observe that from the very long run of bad weather we have had and being so often baffled in our attempts to get round the end of the island which is full of danger and moreover have seen all the land that lies between its north-west and west points to its south-west points from which these dangerous rocks and breakers lie about 7 or 8 miles I now determined to stand off to Albatross Island in a straight line for this reef for we could not venture too close unto land it having every appearance of a gale from south or south-east either of which blow in on the shore. This reef I named Lady Nelson Reef from our so narrowly escaping being on shore on it, this however is only to distinguish it from others for I have not the least doubt but it is what Mr. Bass gave me a sketch of, the latitude and longitude so well correspond with his. I fancy also it is what was seen in the Martha schooner in 1799 along with the land, all of which is one island...Thus we took leave of this large and fine island where the benevolent hand of Providence has fixed the chief necessaries of life and the means to procure some of its luxuries. We kept on East expecting it would soon blow a gale and a heavy sea up. I much lament not having as yet had it in my power from the series of unfavourable weather we have had so exactly to comply with the Commander-in-Chief's orders as I could have wished.

"Monday, January 25th. From noon till half-past 1 P.M. we run due east 8 miles, we then saw from masthead Hunter's Islands bearing (the middle of them) south-south-east distant 5 or 6 leagues...Under the lee of Three Hummock Island in smooth water we laid under easy sail off and on all night—found the tides here to run very strong. In the morning I sent boat on shore with the First Mate and 2 hands, by noon they returned having shot 2 ducks and found a spring of water, some small kangaroo were seen but not worth shooting even could they have been got at. The footsteps of a man were seen on shore, perhaps one of the Harrington's Lascars as the foot was measured and found very small. The shores of this island are bold rock and some dangerous reefs lie off it, one of which (a sunken one) we did not escape by 10 yards...Lady Nelson's Reef is east-south-east and west-north-west distance about 30 miles in Latitude 40 degrees 20 minutes 30 seconds south and Longitude by Time-keeper 145 degrees 40 minutes 53 seconds, it has many sandy bights in it where I would not scruple to anchor in south-south-west, south-east and east winds.

"Tuesday, January 26th. At half-past 12 bore away for Elephant Rock. At 5 P.M. the south extreme of Three Hummock Island bore south by east distance 19 or 20 miles...At sundown extremes of Governor King's Island bore south-west to west by north distance 11 or 12 miles. At 8 P.M. shortened sail and threw her head off shore intending to have lain off and on all night, this was done. At 4 A.M. made sail for land and we exactly made Elephant Rock right ahead therefore the distance between Three Hummock Island and Elephant Rock is north 65 west distance 44 miles true by compass north-west by west. We then stood on for the sandy capes or bluffs and by half-past 9 A.M. the largest and perpendicular one bore south by west distant 8 or 9 miles, this I named Cape Farewell. I took a departure from it intending to run to Cape Albany (Otway); the wind from 4 A.M. has blown at east-north-east and from that to north-east with its usual hazy dirty weather, in consequence of which we kept our wind till noon to be certain of clearing the shoals and breakers lying off this end of the island. At noon saw the looming of the western end of the island bearing distant perhaps 12 miles, the direct distance from Mid Hummock of that island to Cape Farewell is north 51 degrees west distance 56 miles true but by compass north-west a little westerly."

CHAPTER 6.

THE DISCOVERY OF PORT PHILLIP.

On leaving King Island, Murray, on January 30th (civil time),* (* In this chapter civil time is given in the author's observations. The time in the logs throughout is according to nautical reckoning, i.e. the day beginning at noon before the civil reckoning.) returned again to Western Port and next day, at 4 A.M. he sent Mr. Bowen with 5 men in the launch to examine the harbour to the westward which is now known as Port Phillip and at the head of which stands the city of Melbourne. On Wednesday the launch returned and the first mate reported that he had found a good channel into the harbour which was "a most noble sheet of water." He also reported that he saw no natives but only their huts. Shortly afterwards Murray himself entered the newly discovered Port in the Lady Nelson.

Murray arrived there on February 14th and anchored at 3.30 P.M. in a sandy cove off a point of the shore which lay distant a quarter of a mile to the south-west. He named a high mountain Arthur's Seat; a cluster of islands where black swans were plentiful Swan Isles; a bold rocky point to the east-south-east Point Paterson and a long sandy point Point Palmer.

The chart of Port Phillip (Illustration 11) is possibly a reproduction of the track of the Lady Nelson's boat when the bay was explored for the first time. Arthur's Seat and Watering Place apparently are the only names placed on it by Murray* (* It is preserved at the Admiralty.) as Swan Pond and "Point Repear" are in a different handwriting. At "Point Repear" the long boat of the Lady Nelson may have been repaired or the name may have been written in mistake for Point Nepean, also named by Murray.

The following entries describe his coming to Port Phillip.

"Wednesday, January 27th. From noon till 8 P.M. variable winds, hot sultry weather, dull fiery sky and so thick that we could not see above a mile ahead; kept making for Cape Albany (Otway). At 8 short sail and hove to...at 4 A.M. the wind settled into a westerly gale attended with heavy squalls and rain. By 9 A.M. it turned into a clear gale and a very high sea up which makes us labour a good deal. Had altitude longitude by then 143 degrees 13 minutes 40 seconds, these agree with the dead reckoning within 3 or 4 miles. Latitude 39 degrees 12 minutes 33 seconds. This weather has again rendered abortive my plan of getting the direct line of bearing and distance between Cape Farewell and Cape Albany Otway. I shall only observe that I never experienced such length of bad weather at any time of year or in any country since I sailed the seas.

"Saturday, January 30th. At half-past 9 A.M. the north point of land bore north distant 12 miles—made sail for it. At 10 A.M. perceived with surprise that it was Cape Shanks and Grant's Point instead of Cape Albany. I now judged it prudent to send our boat down to overhaul for a channel into the harbour mentioned in the Log of the 5th of this month, accordingly stood in for it and by noon Cape Shanks bore north-west distant 6 or 7 miles and Grant's Point north-east by east 10 or 11 miles. We had a very heavy swell and perceived the surf about Seal Islands breaking in a fearful manner; sounded every hour.

"Sunday, January 31st. At 2 P.M. passed Seal Island. Observed the long range of breakers on the western side of the Port: several of them had shifted their berths nearer to mid channel...the whole of them for several miles broke incessantly and remarkable lofty—we passed within 2 miles of them. The reefs on the eastern side also broke much further out. In short the mid channel up this port has (by the immense run of bad weather) been made narrower. By 5 P.M. got to anchor in Elizabeth's Cove...out boats. Got the launch ready for sailing in the morning to explore the channel of the western harbour before mentioned. I went on shore in the gig. Found the well as we left it full of fine clear water and our board of directions hanging at the entrance of the pathway. At 4 A.M.* (* It will be seen that Bowen left to explore Port Phillip at 4 A.M. of January 31st and not on February 1st.) I sent the launch with Mr. Bowen and 5 men armed with 14 days' provisions and water down to the westward giving him particular instructions how to act both with respect to the harbour and natives should he fall in with any, the substance of which was that in finding a channel into the Port he would take marks proper for coming in with the vessel and immediately return to me and at all times to deal friendly with the natives. It may now be proper to observe that my intentions are that if a passage into that harbour is found I will take the vessel down into it and survey it as speedily as circumstances will allow, from that trace the coast to Cape Albany, from Cape Albany run strait to Cape Farewell and Harbinger Rocks, and if time, after that follow up the remainder of my orders.

"Monday, February 1st...A.M. I walked along the beach for 8 miles up to Lady Nelson's Point and observed that a great variety of birds were in the brush and their notes very different; flights of white cockatoos of perhaps 100 were often seen. At Lady Nelson's Point we saw 20 or 30 swans in the salt-water lagoon...one and all of the birds we have seen were so shy that...we did not shoot one (a single pigeon excepted). The trees also were all in bloom. I am apt to think that summer does not begin in this part till January. On penetrating further into this island the soil was found to be good.

"Tuesday, February 2nd. P.M. I sent a hand on shore to the well in order to see if any birds were to be got by his sitting there a few hours steady as numbers towards sundown came in to drink. The plan had the desired effect, 4 pigeons were shot, a dozen of parrots; these latter were common, I dined on them, the pigeons were preserved. On opening them all were found to feed on seeds of various kinds.

"Wednesday, February 3rd. P.M. As I was walking along the pathway to the well I nearly trod on a snake about 6 feet long, the first we have seen on the island. It made its way into the brush.

"Thursday, February 4th. Throughout these 24 hours we have had calms with hot sickly weather and thick fiery haze. At half-past 9 P.M. the launch returned on board, all well. Mr. Bowen reported that a good channel was found into this new harbour, water from 10 fathoms to 6 and about a mile and a half broad, and according to his accounts it is A MOST NOBLE SHEET OF WATER larger even than Western Port, with many fine coves and entrances in it and the appearance and probability of rivers, a number of shells were found on its beaches—swans, pelicans and birds of various sorts were seen in great numbers. The boat's crew lived on swans all the time they were away.

"No water was as yet found—the officer having no time to spare, nor no natives seen but numbers of their huts, in short from such a report as I have received and of the truth of which I have no doubt (as the attention and care of this officer has always been conspicuous) it would be unpardonable in me not to give this new harbour a strict overhaul, in the meantime as it was calm and no appearance of getting out, at 8 A.M. hove up and towed the vessel up to Lady Nelson's Point in order to send the boat up the river for birds such plenty of various kinds being on this island. At noon dropped our anchor in 6 fathoms, Lady Nelson's Point bearing west by south half a mile and Crown Head 9 miles north-east by east and Margaret Island north-east 1/2 north 7 or 8 miles—moored with kedge.

"Friday, February 5th. Variable flaws of wind all round the compass this last 24 hours and hot sultry weather. Employed overhauling our bread which we found in good order. A.M. Sent the launch with the First Mate and 4 hands armed up the river to try and shoot some birds, it ought to be observed that the past two or three days we were here numbers of native fires were seen on the coast and up both arms, since then they have disappeared.

"Monday, February 8th. At 3 P.M. the launch returned, all well, having got a live swan, some dead ones and 4 crowned parrots, a single duck was shot. No fresh water was to be got even at dead low water and up as far as the boat could be pushed between the boughs of the fallen trees. At A.M. took up our kedge, weighed our anchor, made sail for Elizabeth's Cove and at half-past 6 A.M. came to anchor...sent empty cask on shore to complete our water—also a party to cut wood, we filled our casks from this excellent spring. Longitude by chronometer 145 degrees 13 minutes 53 seconds.

"Tuesday, February 9th. Calm weather, constant thick fiery haze, very close and sultry. By 3 P.M. secured everything for sea intending to sail in the morning, took a haul of our seine, caught one whiting only and two remarkable curious fish.

"Wednesday, February 10th. P.M. Sighted our Bower anchor suspecting it to be foul, found it so. Having found a quantity of oysters, mussels and shellfish at low water to-day gave the shore a strict search at low water and plainly perceived that a company of 6 or 8 men would not run any hazard of being starved here for several months from the vast quantity of shellfish to be found. We also have these some days past found feeding on seaweed many hundreds of a very handsome shell very scarce where we were in April last.

"Thursday, February 11th. This evening a snake 6 feet long was killed in the road to the well.

"Friday, February 12th. A.M. Hoisted in launch, took up kedge intending to sail if wind came to anything, it however kept constantly falling calm and then a light air would spring up for a few minutes; this kind of weather obliged me to keep fast. At noon heard distant thunder around us.

"Saturday, February 13th. From 7 P.M. till 10 P.M. constant loud thunder, vivid lightning and very hard rain later part, till 9 A.M. Was calm then. A breeze sprung up at east. Hove up our B.* (* Bower, that is anchor.) and hung by the kedge, by this time it fell calm and our hopes of getting to sea vanished, needless to observe this kind of weather is as destructive to the intent of this cruise as gales at sea. I took a walk along the beach far enough to see all the entrances to this port and by ascending an eminence was confirmed in my opinion that several of those dangerous sand rollers had shifted their berths and by so doing had rendered the channel narrower than hithertofore.

"Sunday, February 14th...At 5 A.M. weighed and made all sail down the port, by 8 A.M. Grant's Point bore east by north distant 10 miles and Cape Shanks north-west distant 7 miles; kept running down the land. A.M. At half-past 10 South Head of the new Harbour or Port north by east 8 miles distant; by noon the island at entrance of harbour bore north half a mile distant. At this time we had a view of this part of the spacious harbour, its entrance is wide enough to work any vessel in, but, in 10 fathoms. Bar stretches itself a good way across, and, with a strong tide out and wind in, the ripple is such as to cause a stranger to suspect rock or shoals ahead. We carried in with us water from 14 to 16 fathoms. Kept standing up the port with all sail set.

"Monday, February 15th. P.M. Working up, the port with a very strong ebb against us, we however gained ground. The southern shore of this noble harbour is bold high land in general and not clothed as all the land at Western Point is with thick brush but with stout trees of various kinds and in some places falls nothing short, in beauty and appearance, of Greenwich Park. Away to the eastward at the distance of 20 miles the land is mountainous, in particular there is one very high mountain which in the meantime I named Arthur's Seat from its resemblance to a mountain of that name a few miles from Edinburgh...to the north-east by north, about 5 miles from the south shore lies a cluster of small rocky islands and all round them a shoal of sand; plenty of swans and pelicans were found on them when the boat was down, from which I named them Swan Isles. To the north-east by east there is an opening, and from our masthead no land could be seen in it. The northern shores are low with a sandy beach all along. At half-past 3 P.M. we got to anchor in a sandy cove in 7 fathoms water, bottom fine sand—Swan Isles bearing north-east by north distance 5 miles, a bold rocky point which I named Point Paterson east-south-east 1 1/2 miles, a long sandy point named Point Palmer west, 1 1/2 miles, and the nearest point of the shore south-west 1/2 of a mile distant.

"I went on shore and walked through the woods a couple of miles. The ground was hard and pleasant to walk on. The trees are at a good distance from each other and no brush intercepts you. The soil is good as far as we may be judges. I saw several native huts and very likely they have burnt off several hundred acres of ground. Young grass we found springing up over all the ground we walked; the only birds we saw were a few parrots. We found some shells on the beach and returned on board. I have named this harbour Port King* (* Governor King afterwards renamed the harbour Port Phillip in honour of the first Governor of New South Wales.) in honour of Governor P.G. King under whose orders I act. Set a third watch of the people with an officer. In the morning sent the gig to Swan isles for swans and on board we caught a few rock fish. At noon the gig returned with 3 live and 4 dead swans.

"Tuesday, February 16th. After dinner I took a walk through the woods of this part of the country, attended by one soldier and our carpenter to examine the wood. To describe this part I walked through is simply to say that it nearly resembles a walk on Blackheath and the Park if we set out of question the houses and gardens of the latter. The hills and valleys rise and fall with inexpressible elegance. We discovered no water nor any new wood of consequence, but it is impossible that a great want of water can be here from the number of native huts and fires we fell in with in our march. From the top of a high hill I ascended and casting my eyes to the north-east a large sheet of water was seen which I am inclined to think is either a harbour or large river; we also perceived that this port trained away under Cape Shanks.

"On our return to the boat Andrew Luck found a perfect nautilus shell; he made me a present of it, indeed it is but common justice to observe that the invariable good, attentive and decent behaviour of this old man ever since he joined this vessel renders him a fit object of mercy. This day a few snappers were caught and some rock fish. At sundown a native fire was seen about a mile inland, in the morning early I sent Mr. Bowen and Bond armed to speak them, neither fell in with them. At 9 A.M. hove up our Bower with a light air at north-east and dropped a few miles further up the Port. We now saw the same fire just lighted by the natives and presently perceived several of them come out of the Bush, but the moment they saw the vessel they sprang into the wood out of sight. At 11 A.M. we came to an anchor in 5 fathoms water, handed sails, etc., as there was a native fire burning a little way inland.

"I sent the launch with Mr. Bowen and 4 hands armed to see if any natives were here, and before the boat was half-way on shore we had the satisfaction of seeing 18 or 20 men and boys come out of the wood and seat themselves down on a green bank waiting the approach of our boat with which I had sent some shirts and other trifles to give them; the boat accordingly landed in the midst of them and a friendly intercourse took place with dancing on both sides—in an hour the boat returned. Mr. Bowen had dressed them in our white shirts and invited them on board, this however they declined, but exchanged for all this. Got a basket of straw neatly enough made. They were all clothed in the skins of opossums and each had a bundle of spears, a stone mogo and one basket. They wished much to know what our arms were and their use and did not seem entirely to believe Mr. Bowen that they were only walking sticks—no women were amongst them. I sent the boat again with some bread, looking-glasses, tomahawk and a picture as presents to induce them to part with their weapons and dresses as also to inform us where there was water. This day all hands put upon two-thirds allowance of bread.

"Wednesday, February 17th. Fresh light airs inclinable to calm throughout this 24 hours. The boat (as mentioned in latter part of yesterday's log) proceeded to the shore and was as before received in a friendly manner by the natives, all of whom were seated in a circle on a beautiful spot of grass near a high point of land. Mr. Bowen and all the crew consisting of 5 men and the boy, Mr. Brabyn, went up with their dinners in their hands and sat down in the midst of them (18 in number) and began to eat showing the natives how to eat bread, etc., and gave them anything they chose to ask for. Mr. Bowen gave them all the things I had sent as well as several of his own things—stripping himself almost naked to comply with their wishes, and his example was followed by the whole of the boat's crew. As there was two fine-looking boys amongst them I sent Mr. Brabyn on shore purposely to see and gain their confidence by his attention to their youngsters, both of whom he dressed in his shirts, handkerchiefs, trowsers, etc.

"All matters continued in this state while our people had anything to give and all we got was 2 spears, a basket and a mogo and even these they again took from the seamen that had them in keeping, this however the officer took no offence at being determined if at all possible to keep on friendly terms with them. It was in vain that the officer and crew tryed by signs too significant not to be understood to gain intelligence where water was to be found or on what beaches shells were most plentiful, to all such enquiries they turned a deaf ear and only seemed intent on getting what our people had even to the last shirt; by this time our people had nearly finished their dinners and Isaac Moss having the boat in charge got up and was walking slowly down to her. At this time the Boy Brabyn happened to turn his head towards the wood and saw a man in the very act of throwing a spear at Moss as well as a large body (not before seen) behind a large fallen tree with their spears all in readiness for throwing. The boy immediately cried out to Mr. Bowen who was at that very time in the act of serving out bread to all the party he was sitting among that he would be speared, but before the words were out of his mouth, a spear of a most dangerous kind, was thrown at and did not escape Moss by a yard and in an instant the whole of the treacherous body that Mr. Bowen and 4 of our people were sitting in the midst of opened out to the right and left and at once left them all open to the party in ambush who immediately were on their feet and began to throw spears; still such was the forbearance of the officer that only one piece was fired over their heads but this was found only to create a small panic, and our party were obliged to teach them by fatal experience the effect of our walking sticks.

"The first fire made them run and one received two balls between his shoulders, still some of them made a stop to heave; the second fire they all set off with astonishing speed and most likely one received a mortal wound. Before another piece was fired Mr. Bowen laid hold of one of their number and held on till three of our people came up and also grappled him, strange to tell he made such violent struggles as to get away from them all nor did the contents of the officer's piece bring him up although one ball passed through his arm and the other in the side—he was traced a good distance by his blood—the remaining pieces were by this time fired and our party gave chase to them all.

"On board I kept a strict look-out with the glass and we lay only a little more than a quarter of a mile off the point where they were seated on. I plainly saw the natives running through the wood which was by no means thick—one fellow in particular had been dressed in one of my white shirts and the officer had tyed the wrists of it with string, which hindered his getting it off—him we plainly saw from the vessel pass the roots of black trees with such speed as more to resemble a large white bird flying than a man. To increase their panic as they passed along I gave them a discharge of our guns loaded with round and grape but am almost certain that they did them no damage; by this time our people returned from the chase, having found on the way back a number of spears, dresses and baskets, etc. Made the boat signal and they came off.

"Thus did this treachery and unprovoked attack meet with its just punishment and at the same time taught us a useful lesson to be more cautious in future. With respect to the size of these natives they are much the same as at Sydney, their understanding better though, for they easily made out our signs when it answered their purposes or inclination. When it did not they could be dull enough. They were all clothed in opossum skins and in each basket a certain quantity of gum was found. Not the least sign of a canoe has been seen. I conclude they live entirely inland, and if we may judge from the number of their fires and other marks this part of the country is not thin of inhabitants. Their spears are of various kinds and all of them more dangerous than any I have yet seen. The workmanship of their dresses, their lines and baskets are far from despicable, their mogo or stone axes are such as common at Sydney.

"In the afternoon the boat went to Swan Isles and caught three live swans of a large size, and in the morning the launch went with Mr. Power and a party well armed to sound for a channel round which the vessel might sail in order to survey the port. Usefully employed on board. Latitude 38 degrees 20 minutes south.

"Thursday, February 18th. Pleasant weather throughout. The launch returned having been fortunate enough to discover...fresh water and a channel all round this part of the Port from 10 to 14 fathoms. I took a long range through the woods attended with an armed party. We discovered nothing new but found several of the things we gave the natives which in their fright they had dropped. The ground we walked over was open and the same as before described, with good soil. The tide where we lie flows full and changes at 3 hours in the afternoon, and its perpendicular rise is about 6 feet up and down.

"Friday, February 19th. Another overhaul of the woods took place but nothing (not before mentioned) was found. Numbers of native tracks, fires and huts were seen. One native fire in sight on Arthur's Seat distant about 10 miles.

"Saturday, February 20th. Sent an armed party and our carpenter a long range through the woods to try the different kinds of wood, none however was found of use, the trees being almost invariably oak and other wood quite common at Sydney. A red waistcoat of Mr. Brabyn's was found with some bread in each pocket, in this he had dressed one of the native boys, who in his fear left it I fancy, as soon as he had found how to get it off, for it was buttoned on him.

"Sunday, February 21st. Finding we could not move higher up the port with the vessel I sent the launch over the western side to examine the passage into a harbour or river I saw from the hill on 16th inst.

"Monday, February 22nd. At noon the launch returned, having found an entrance into the sheet of water they were sent to overhaul, but only at high water, 7 or 8 feet of it, consequently no harbour for shipping. The boat proceeded a mile and a half, and, in running that, caught 20 swans of a large size without wasting one charge of shot, which by-the-bye is now become a scarce article, not above 3 or 4 pounds being in the vessel; however from the report made of this place it may lead to something of more consequence. I shall after the survey of the Port is completed give it a good overhaul. I must mention here that both our boats are now in such a state of decay from age and constant mending and patching that they both keep a hand constantly bailing when pulling or sailing, this circumstance it is needless to mention in a certain degree retards our proceedings.

"Tuesday, February 23rd. I went in the launch and sounded a few miles of the Port up towards the watering place. The soundings were 9 feet to 6 fathoms, bottom fine sand, further out perhaps a deeper channel may exist (this will be ascertained in the survey). Afterwards we walked through the country some distance, found the soil invariably good, the ground almost clear and the ranges of trees as regular as they are in general in the Park, with fine strong short grass underfoot.

"Wednesday, February 24th. First part of these 24 hours had a great deal of thunder and lightning and rain, middle and latter parts it blew a hard gale at south-west with squalls at intervals. We held on although all ataunto with the small bower and one-third of a cable out, a proof of the goodness of the holding ground.

"Thursday, February 25th. First part the gale continued, latter fair winds. Observed several very large native fires at the foot of Arthur's Seat and on the western side of the port, hauled our seine several times along the shore nearest us but caught no fish owing probably to there being flats of sand lying off them to the distance of 200 yards.

"Friday, February 26th. Examined the beach and land for about 8 miles. A.M. Sent our long boat on shore, turned her up and set our carpenter to work on her, she leaking so much as to keep a hand constantly bailing, and our small boat is so bad as to render it hazardous to go any distance from the vessel in her.

"Saturday, February 27th. Fine weather and moderate winds. Both boats sounding and on survey of harbour. A number of very large native fires on the hills round the eastern and western shores of the Port have been seen these two days past. Sent Mr. Bowen and Mr. Brabyn in the gig to get the Latitude of the north end of Swan Isles and at noon I got the Latitude of a point about 7 miles North and South of them from which a base line was got for the survey of the harbour.

"Sunday, February 28th. Gave some of the people liberty on shore.

"Monday, March 1st. At 5 A.M. took up our kedge, hove short, loosed sails and sheeted home the top-sails, weighed and made sail up the port, intending to run as high as the watering place. The wind in a little time flied away and the tide ran so rapid as to sweep the vessel on a shoal of sand with only 5 feet of water on it, as it was perfectly smooth we immediately hove her off without her sustaining the least damage and dropped back into our old berth between Point Paterson and Bowen's Point so named from Mr. Bowen's skirmish with the natives in it. The flies are now so troublesome as to almost hinder a person from sitting a moment in one place.

"Tuesday, March 2nd. Employed getting on board stones for ballast and stowing them away. At 4 A.M. sent the longboat for a turn of water and to sound that part of the harbour between the vessel and it; by noon she returned on board with a turn of water, it was found that a bank of sand lay from shore to the distance of a mile or a mile and a quarter with only, 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8 feet on it at low water and it extends nearly 4 miles along shore. When you have passed this there is from 5 to 9 fathoms water abreast of the watering place, there is however little doubt of a deep channel being outside of this shoal, and this point will be ascertained in the course of to-morrow.

"Thursday, March 4th. P.M. The launch returned on board with a turn of water but had not been able to find a channel for vessel of any draught of water though she stood well out from the shore to at best 3 miles. This bank has only from 4 to 8 feet water on it and in many places is not above a hundred yards broad.

"Friday, March 5th. I went in the launch in search of a channel by which vessels of a larger draught than ours might be got up abreast of the watering place and was fortunate enough to find one a mile at least in breadth lying off the southern shores of this Port about 3 miles and having from 16 to 6 fathoms water in at low water and neap tides; and in this water a vessel of any draught may be secure from all winds at about a mile and a half from the spring at which to-day I loaded the boat with water and examined it. As far as we are judges it is most excellent water as clear as crystal—lies from the beach about 10 or a dozen yards and plenty of it to water the Grand Fleet of England; it is nearer the entrance than the foot of Arthur's Seat by about 2 miles, and can easily be found out by the land which for a few miles before you come to it is low whereas all the other land on both sides is high with bold points; if a boat then East or east by south from Point Paterson 9 miles puts into the shore they will not be far off it, there is plenty of duck about it, but so shy that only two have been shot, a circumstance we did not a little regret as they exceed in flavour any I ever eat. We are now complete in water and will soon be wooded.

"Saturday, March 5th. Employed on board fitting new waist-cloths, the others being decayed and her sides and bends being very bare I gave them a coat of red (the only colour we had on board) and blacked the bends and upper works. A.M. I went in the launch over to the sheet of water* (* Mentioned on 22nd.) (as I intended) with an armed boat's crew and by noon got to its entrance. This day has been so clear that we are able to see the land all round the Port and in many places very high headlands. In those low places, where we could not be certain of the land by the eye there were numerous native fires and some of them very large.

"Sunday, March 7th. By one P.M. I got into the sheet of water and by pulling all round it found it to be very extensive but, in no place more than 6 feet water and the greatest part of it so shoal as to ground the boat. In the entrance at one place there is a small channel of about 50 or 60 feet in breadth with 9 feet to 2 1/2 fathoms water in, but of no use as it shoals to a couple of feet before you get in. The soil of the land all round the extensive place is good and its appearance exceeds in beauty even the southern shores. The number of large swans seen almost exceeds belief, but by this time most of them could fly, we caught 11—10 of which were large. All of us slept this night on a pleasant little island with a few handsome trees on it, soil good and so clear as to be fit for the hoe at once, I named it Maria Isle after a sister I lost some years past.

"Monday, March 8th. As we now intended sailing in a few days I judged it consistent with His Majesty's instructions (a copy of which I was furnished with from the Governor and Commander-in-Chief of New South Wales) to take possession of this port in the form and manner laid down by the said instructions, and accordingly at 8 o'clock in the morning the United Colours of the Kingdoms of Great Britain and Ireland were hoisted on board and on Point Paterson, and at one o'clock under a discharge of 3 volleys of small arms and artillery the Port was taken possession of in the name of his Sacred Majesty George the Third of Great Britain and Ireland, King, etc., etc. Served double allowance of grog. In the afternoon I went on shore attended with an armed party and passed the remainder of the day about and under the colours flying on shore, at sundown hauled down the colours on board and ashore.

"Tuesday, March 9th. Employed getting ready for sea. Overhauled our keels fore and aft, cleaned them. We have now expended 19 weeks and one day's provisions out of 24 weeks. We were victualled for commencing on 27th October 1801 and owing to the quantity of bread decayed, along with what the swans and other birds have eaten, we are rather short, even what we have left is very bad, therefore it will not be in my power at this time to prosecute the object of our cruise much further. It is in vain I regret so little being done in such a length of time, the weather and other circumstances have been rather against us the whole cruise, however the little that is performed of the original instructions is pretty accurate and I trust will give the Commander-in-Chief some satisfaction.

"Wednesday, March 10th. For these last two or three days great numbers of native fires have been seen all round the Port except between Arthur's Seat and Point Palmer.

"Thursday, March 11th. At 7 weighed and made sail down the port by 8 A.M. with a strong tide of ebb running out we got into the entrance carrying all the way from 9 to 16 fathoms water, we then fell into such a ripple that we expected every minute it would break on board—got clear and by half-past the point of entrance bore north-east by east 4 miles and a remarkably high nob of land (if not an island) west-north-west 4 or 5 miles, by noon the entrance north-east by west 9 or 10 miles.

...

Wednesday, March 24th. Fine weather though inclined to calm. At half-past 3 P.M. South Head bore south-south-west the North distant 4 or 5 miles. At 4 P.M. passed Bradley's Head, at 6 passed Garden Island and by half-past 6 P.M. came to an anchor in Sydney Cove with the best bower, moored with the kedge. The Commander waited on His Excellency the Governor and Commander-in-Chief."

Murray's voyage ended on March 24th, and on the same day he waited on Governor King at Sydney, with the news that his orders had been carried out. The Governor must have been greatly pleased, and the more so because only a month later the French ship Naturaliste put into Port Jackson.* (* The French ships Geographe and Naturaliste had left France in October 1800 on a voyage of discovery.) Hamelin, who commanded her, was, however, in sore straits. He had parted from Commodore Baudin in a gale off Van Dieman's Land and had traversed the whole of Bass Strait without meeting the Geographe, his boats having visited Western Port* only a month after Murray had left there. (* French Island preserves the memory of their visit, but Murray's Chart shows that the English (contrary to Peron's assertions) knew that this island was separated from the mainland before the coming of the French.) Finding his provisions exhausted, in his extremity the French Commander, although he knew that France and England were at war, steered to Sydney. The English, we are told, received him with noble and large-minded (grande et Loyale) liberality, and the sick French sailors were received at the Government Hospital. Hamelin was busily engaged in replenishing his ship when Captain Matthew Flinders arrived in H.M.S. Investigator on May 9th and was able to give him news of his consort which he had met in Encounter Bay. Flinders also informed Captain Hamelin that Baudin had said that it was his intention to proceed to the Isle of France. The Naturaliste therefore, hastened her preparations and sailed from Sydney on May 18th.

In the meantime the Lady Nelson had been to the Hawkesbury and back again, arriving on April 21st and bringing a cargo of wheat and some cedar logs. The remarks in the log may prove of value to those who study the early history of the Colony, for Murray gives the names of the different reaches in the river, and it would be interesting to know whether these old place-names are still used. Murray does not tell us of the arrival of the Naturaliste, though he must have been in Sydney then, but various entries show that the brig conveyed the Governor and his party to the Naturaliste's anchorage in Neutral Bay to visit Captain Hamelin and brought them to Sydney again.

Another voyage to the Hawkesbury River was carried out, and then the ship was put into preparation for a voyage of exploration, in company with the Investigator, to the North coast.

MURRAY'S LOG.

Sydney Cove to the Hawkesbury.

"Thursday, April 1st. Fine weather. Getting ready for sea. At half-past 5 A.M. up kedge and weighed and turned out of ye cove. The Cumberland got under way and proceeded down the harbour. At 8 A.M. (We having the Cumberland in company) cleared the heads of Port Jackson, and at half-past 8 parted with Cumberland, leaving her with a fine moderate breeze at south-south-east, and by half-past 9 she bore Sydney 4 or 5 miles. By 11 A.M. got abreast of Barren Jowie* (* Barrenjoey.) and by noon passed Pittwater, here we found at anchor Mr. Commissary Palmer's vessel the George.

"Friday, April 2nd. Proceeding up Harbour and by 2 P.M. came to anchor under Mullet Island, in the evening Raby's boat passed us, and in a little time after we hailed and brought alongside a fishing boat with three soldiers in her, at 8 P.M. she left us. A.M. Got under way and at the end of tide came to in the westernmost end of Spectacle Reach.

"Saturday, April 3rd. At 3 P.M. got under weigh and proceeded up the river—came to in Mangrove Reach, set as usual an armed watch with an officer and proceeded up the river and at noon came to in Milkmaid Reach.

"Sunday, April 4th. At 6 A.M. got under weigh and proceeded up the river as far as the first branch and there from the darkness of the night came to. At 5 A.M. up anchor and by 11 got as far as Shot Snake Reach.

"Monday, April 5th. Fine weather. At 8 A.M. got under weigh and...proceeded up the River, by 11 A.M. passed the upper branch and by noon gained two following Reaches. Latitude observed 33 degrees 28 minutes 26 seconds south.

"Tuesday, April 6th. Fine weather throughout. At 4 P.M. came to in Belloe's Reach and at half-past 9 P.M. got under weigh and gained Portland Reach. At 10 A.M. got under weigh and by noon got one reach above Portland Reach—as yet we have not seen one log of cedar.

"Wednesday, April 7th. Proceeding up the river—by 4 P.M. came to in the Reach above the first settlers—fired a gun.

"Sunday, April 11th. At half-past 12 hauled the vessel in close to Government House and began to take in wheat and by sundown got in 311 bushels. At daylight again began to receive grain and by noon received on board to the amount of wheat 774 bushels.

The Hawkesbury to Sydney Cove.

"Monday, April 12th. Preparing to drop down the river. At 6 A.M. made the signal for sailing with a gun.

Hawkesbury River to Sydney Cove.

"Tuesday, April 13th. At 9 A.M. hauled up to get down the river but the wind blew so strong in our teeth that we were obliged to come to a few hundred yards below Government House.

"Wednesday, April 14th. At half-past 12 P.M. the tide having made down hove up and began to tow down the river and by 5 P.M. got down to the lowest settlers. At 8 P.M. fired a gun and set an armed watch; at 9 P.M. having a fair breeze of wind, got under weigh and by noon cleared Lover's Leap Reach.

"Thursday, April 15th. At 5 P.M. from the strength of the wind were obliged to come to in the upper end of Sackville Reach.

"Friday, April 16th. At one P.M. a short lull taking place, hove up and tried to tow down but immediately obliged to bring up from wind blowing so strong as to render our getting down the river an entire impossibility.

"Saturday, April 17th. At one P.M. it lulled and we got under weigh, by 6 P.M. we came to, at midnight on the turn of tide again hove up and towed down, at 3 A.M. passed the Francis schooner at anchor, at 4 A.M. came to.

"Sunday, April 18th. Fine weather throughout. Proceeding down the river. At 4 P.M. came to in Barbin Reach—towed down till half-past 4 A.M., at half-past 9 A.M. again got under weigh and by noon got within the reaches of Mangrove Point; one of the Hawkesbury boats passed us.

"Monday, April 19th. Working down the river. By 2 P.M. we gained one reach below Sentry Box and there came to. Sent on shore and cut down a few cabbage trees for the people. At half-past 7 two boats passed us going to the Hawkesbury. Half-past one A.M. got down as low as the Barr Reach where we brought up, at 9 A.M. again got under weigh and by noon we gained Spectacle Reach.

"Tuesday, April 20th. Proceeding down the river as far as Mullet Island and at half-past 1 P.M. came to. Hove up and made sail down as far as Flint and Steel Cove and then came to; at 9 A.M., in boats, and hove up, made sail out of Broken Bay wind at north-west, at 11 A.M. passed Barren Jowie, by noon the north head of Port Jackson bore south by west 1/2 west.

"Wednesday, April 21st. Hauled our wind close tacked occasionally till 6 P.M. when we entered the Heads, kept working up the Port and by 7 P.M. got as high as Garden Island, and at 8 P.M. came to an anchor in Sydney Cove.

...

"Thursday, April 29th. First and middle parts calm, latter part small breezes, proceeded down the river as far as the French ship on board of which the Commander-in-Chief went and other gentlemen. At 2 P.M. they returned on board and we tacked and stood up for Sydney again, at half-past 2 P.M. the breeze dying away His Excellency and the other gentlemen left us and went up in their boats. At 4 P.M., a small breeze springing up, we were enabled to proceed up, and by 5 P.M. came to an anchor in Sydney Cove.

Sydney Cove to the Hawkesbury.

"Friday, April 30th. At 11 A.M. again received orders to get under weigh, loosed sails, hove up and made sail down the Port. At noon the Commander-in-Chief with a company of ladies and gentlemen came on board and we proceeded down the Harbour all sails set.

"Saturday, May 1st. Kept standing down the Harbour and at one P.M. came to an anchor in Lookout Bay where the Commander-in-Chief and party went on shore. At 4 P.M. weighed and stood up the Harbour and at 6 came to off the Pinch Gut Island in 12 fathoms of water.

...

Sydney Cove to Hawkesbury River.

"Saturday, June 12th. First part strong gales at South, middle and latter more moderate. At 6 A.M. began to work out of the bay, at 7 weighed and made sail and by 8 cleared the heads, at 9 the head of Port Jackson bore south-west by west distant 3 1/2 miles, half-past 9 passed the Long Reef and by about 11 was abreast of the South Head of Broken Bay. At noon nearly reached Barren Jowie.

"Sunday, June 13th. Kept standing off the Bay and by 3 P.M. entered Mullet Island Reach, at 5 P.M. came to in Lay Island Reach, perceived a fresh to be in the river. At 2 A.M. weighed and got a small distance in but the wind freshening ahead obliged us to come to.

"Monday, June 14th. At 3 P.M. weighed and began to tow up the River and by 7 P.M. came to in Bow Reach. At 5 A.M. weighed and proceeded up the river, by 9 A.M. came to in Sentry Box Reach.

"Tuesday, June 15th. At 3 P.M. weighed and made sail proceeding up the river—at half-past 7 A.M. passed the first branch, and at 11 came to.

"Wednesday, June 16th. At 4 P.M., hove up and at 8 P.M. passed the second branch, at 10 came to, at 1 A.M. hove up, and by noon passed Portland Head.

"Thursday, June 17th. At 2 P.M. came to one reach above Portland Head. At 7 P.M. hove up and by one A.M. came to among the lower settlers. At 9 A.M. hove up and got a couple of reaches higher when we anchored, owing to the strength of the wind against us, one hour. People in the launch pulling.

"Friday, June 18th. At 2 A.M. dropped the settlement and at daylight began to deliver the provisions.

"Saturday, June 19th. Finished the delivery of the provisions and began to take in corn from His Majesty's store.

"Tuesday, June 22nd. Employed taking corn. Made the signal for sailing with a gun, by noon we finished loading having got on board 520 bushels corn; hauled off to the stream.

Hawkesbury River to Sydney Cove.

"Wednesday, June 23rd. Employed getting ready to drop down and at 9 A.M. hove up and began to tow down the river; by noon got as low as Simpson's farm.

"Thursday, June 24th. By 2 P.M. got down as low as the lowest settlers and then came to, the tides being done. At 3 P.M. hove up and got down a couple of reaches when we grounded on a mudbank, hove her off and at 8 A.M. hove up and at 10 got past Lover's Leap, at noon got down another reach.

"Friday, June 25th. At one P.M. came to in Portland Reach. At 8 A.M. hove up and by noon got two reaches below Sackville Reach.

"Saturday, June 26th. Proceeding down the river, at 3 P.M. came to and at 9 A.M. hove up and by noon got below the first branch.

"Sunday, June 27th. At 9 A.M. hove up and proceeding down the river and by noon passed the lower reach.

"Monday, June 28th. At 10 A.M. hove up and attempted to work down; by noon gained two reaches.

"Tuesday, June 29th. Gained one reach more in working, when from the sudden gusts of wind and lulls we were obliged to bring up. At 10 A.M. the Cumberland passed us bound up. At 10 A.M. hove up and gained by noon only one more reach and there was forced to let go our anchor.

"Wednesday, June 30th. At 11 P.M. hove up and towed down a couple of reaches when we were obliged to bring to. At 11 A.M. hove up and by noon nearly reached Mangrove Point; wind favouring us, set main-sail and stay sails.

"Thursday, July 1st. At 3 P.M. came to below Mangrove Reach, 6 A.M. hove our small bower to the bows and found its stock gone.

"Friday, July 2nd. Tacking down the river—by 3 P.M. came to at Long Island; at 10 A.M. weighed and made sail down the river. At noon passed the Francis schooner lying at Mullet Island.

"Saturday, July 3rd. At 9 A.M. the Francis weighed and stood up the river; at noon weighed and towed down towards Broken Bay.

"Sunday, July 4th. At 6 P.M. after having attempted to get out were obliged to come to in 4 fathoms water. At 6 A.M. hove up and made sail down the bay, at 7 A.M. passed Pittwater, at 8 got abreast of the South Head, at 10 the North Head of Port Jackson bore west-south-west 4 miles.

"Monday, July 5th. Fresh winds and a high sea. By 4 P.M. entered the heads and at half-past 7 P.M. came to at Garden Island. Commander waited on the Governor and Commander-in-Chief.

CHAPTER 7.

THE LADY NELSON AND THE INVESTIGATOR EXAMINE THE NORTH-EASTERN SHORES OF AUSTRALIA.

In the previous chapter it has been told how Captain Flinders arrived at Port Jackson on May 9th, 1802, ten days before the departure of the Naturaliste and how he had brought news to Hamelin of his meeting with the Geographe in Encounter Bay. On his way to Sydney, Flinders had charted nearly the whole of the South Coast of Australia from Cape Lewin to Wilson's Promontory—a small portion only escaping his notice—and had entered and surveyed Port Phillip.

Immediately on his arrival he consulted with Governor King as to the future explorations of the Investigator. They came to the conclusion that it would be injurious both for the ship and for her crew to attempt another survey of the South Coast at that season of the year, and decided that the Investigator, in company with the Lady Nelson, should proceed to the northward along the Australian coast and then to the westward, if it were possible, to examine the Gulf of Carpentaria before the November following when the north-west monsoon might be expected.

There was at this time a very great need of a proper survey of these shores, particularly of the portion which now forms the Queensland coast and of the reefs that skirt it. Since the days when Cook in the Endeavour had discovered these reefs, except when Flinders sailed to Hervey Bay in 1799, little had been done to make this part of Australia better known, although in the vicinity of the Great Barrier Reef both land and sea were alike dangerous to seamen and disasters were of frequent occurrence. Cook himself had met with a mishap in these waters, and Flinders afterwards was totally wrecked on the inner edge of the Great Barrier Reef. Consequently, in agreeing to Flinders' proposal, King was conferring a real benefit upon the whole of the shipping community. It was also decided that in the event of Flinders' progress being retarded, or if he were unable to examine the Gulf of Carpentaria, he should either explore Torres Strait or return and survey Fiji. Eventually, however, it was found possible for him to carry out the exploration of the Gulf.

Mr. Westall, landscape painter, with Mr. Robert Brown, botanist, and other scientists, sailed in the Investigator. Bungaree, the Rose Bay native who had accompanied Flinders on his voyage in the Norfolk to Hervey Bay also went with him as well as a Sydney black fellow named Nanbury. Murray was given a code of signals for the Lady Nelson and was directed by Flinders, in case of the ships being separated, to repair to Hervey Bay, which he was to enter by a passage between Sandy Cape and Breaksea Spit said to have been found by South Sea whalers.

The two ships left Sydney together on July 22nd, 1802, but the Lady Nelson was soon in difficulties, and was left astern at Port Stephens. Shortly afterwards the Investigator lay to, to await her coming. On Saturday 24th—writes Flinders, "our little consort being out of sight we stood an hour to the southward, and not seeing her in that direction bore away along the coast." Meanwhile on the afternoon of July 26th, Moreton Island at the entrance of Moreton Bay was passed, and on Wednesday the 28th, Flinders reached Sandy Cape where he immediately began to seek for a passage into Hervey Bay. One was found but proved too shallow for the Investigator to pass through, so the ship was brought to two miles from the Spit.

On the 30th the Lady Nelson came up with the Investigator anchoring near her at sunset. After leaving Sandy Cape, Captain Flinders found that the trend of the land differed noticeably from that laid down by Cook in his chart. On August 7th Port Curtis was discovered and on the 21st Port Bowen, but by October 17th, when off the Cumberland Isles (a group off the east coast of Queensland in 20 degrees south), the Lady Nelson had become so unfit for service that she had to be sent back to Sydney.

The vessels at the time were within the Great Barrier Reef, and Flinders states that he kept the brig with him until a passage out to sea clear of the reefs could be found. "It is a matter of much concern to me," he writes to Banks,* (* See letters of Flinders to Banks. Add. manuscripts, British Museum.) "that this navigation could not be surmounted without such a loss of anchors to both vessels and of damage...to the Lady Nelson in the loss of her main keel and the damage done to the trunk." It was also found that her capacity of beating to windward, never great, was much reduced. And again in his journal he says, "the Lady Nelson sailed so ill and had become so leewardly since the loss of the main and part of the after keel that she not only caused us delay but ran great risk of being lost." Therefore, much as he desired the aid of the small vessel, Flinders decided to proceed on his voyage alone.

Soon after he had separated from Flinders, Murray, in order to spare the Lady Nelson's sole remaining anchor, gave orders for two swivel guns crossed, to be lashed together, and when winds were light and waters smooth, he anchored with the swivels until the carpenter was able to make an ironbark anchor to take their place. In the following pages Murray relates the full story of the Lady Nelson's voyage both when she was with the Investigator and also after the two ships had parted company.

WITH THE INVESTIGATOR.

THE LADY NELSON ON DISCOVERY IN COMPANY WITH H.M.S. INVESTIGATOR.

"Thursday, July 22nd, 1802. Preparing for sea. At 2 P.M. the Investigator made the signal for all persons to return on board. At 3 P.M. weighed and made sail down the harbour: by 1/2 past 7, cleared the Heads; 1/2 past 9 North Head of Port Jackson, south-south-west distant 18 miles.

"Friday, July 23rd. At 4 P.M. the Coal Island bore north by east 15 or 16 miles and the South Head of Port Stephens north-north-east 20 or 22 miles...Received orders to keep ahead during the night and show a light now and then, steering north-east by east. At 8 spoke the Commander who told us to keep in his wake.

"Saturday, July 24th. At half-past 5 P.M. the Commander made the signal to come within hail, spoke him and was ordered to keep near him during night.

"Sunday, July 25th. From noon until 11 P.M. gale continued with a high sea which continually broke on board. At daylight we perceived from the land that a southern current ran so strong that we were nearly in the same place as at noon...

"Monday, July 26th. Standing down along shore. By 4 P.M. saw what we supposed was a ship and supposed it to be the Investigator, accordingly stood in for her, but a squall of rain coming on hindered our seeing her; fired a gun but no answer was received, at 8 fired a second gun with a light at the masthead but got no answer...Bore north-north-east and to our surprise by midnight found ourselves close to a very high head of land which owing to being covered with clouds we did not before see.* (* Point Danger.) Turned up the hands and made all sail and by 1 A.M. with much difficulty we cleared it...

"Monday, July 27th. At 2 P.M. Solitary Islands bore west by north distant 7 miles.

"Wednesday, July 28th. At 1 P.M. Mount Warning bore west by north distant 15 or 16 miles...At daylight saw the land from west-south-west to N.W.S., noon the northern end of Moreton Island bore west by north distant 5 or 6 leagues.* (* Flinders examined Moreton Bay and Pumicestone River in 1799 but Oxley made the discovery that Point Lookout was situated on Stradbroke Island and that Moreton Bay extended as far south as 28 degrees where it communicated with the sea.)

"Thursday, July 29th. At 8 A.M. Double Island Point bore north-west by west about 5 or 6 miles. Stood into Wide Bay in hopes of finding the Investigator there, as we stood round the northern end of Double Island saw a number of natives who waved their hands to us; all round the bay were numbers of fires. In the mouth and on the south side of Wide Bay* (* Coast of Queensland.) lie two rocks with bold water round them, not laid down in the chart, and those rocks bare from the north end of Double Island north-east by north distance 1 1/2 miles.

"Friday, July 30th. At 5 P.M. the north extremes of the land bore north 1/2 east distant 15 or 16 miles. Observed numerous natives all along the coast. At sunrise Indian Head bore north-north-west distant 3 miles, as we neared it, counted 25 natives on it. Made all sail for Sandy Cape and by 11 A.M. entered a passage between two reefs, at the same time from the masthead saw the Investigator bearing north-west distant about 10 or 11 miles.* (* The Investigator had anchored under Breaksea Spit about 9 miles north-north-east from Sandy Cape.)

"Saturday, July 31st. Fine weather. At 2 P.M. on the turn of tide sent the boat ahead to tow, hove up, and made all sail; cleared the shoals that surrounded this reef. The Investigator standing down to us sent a boat with the Master on board to give assistance if wanted, at half-past 4 P.M. ye Commander came to; at 5 P.M. we also came to in 4 fathoms of water—bottom fine sand and waited on ye Commander. At half-past 6 A.M. hove up and made sail in shore and at half-past 8 A.M. came to near enough to cover the landing of the boats of both vessels. Captain Flinders and a number of the officers and gentlemen landed and I went on shore with an armed party in order to get wood. In a little time Captain Flinders and his party were joined by about 30 of the natives all of whom laid down their arms and we continued on friendly terms with them all the time the parties were on shore. Captain Flinders made them presents of red caps, tomahawks, etc. with which they were much pleased and gave back some baskets and nets. With respect to the persons of these natives, I perceived little or no difference from the Sydney blacks; their language is much different, as Bungaree could not understand a word they said.* (* "These people were entirely naked but were more 'fleshy' than those at Port Jackson perhaps from being able to obtain a better supply of fish with "scoop nets" which are not known on the southern coast. A species of pandanus grew here in abundance and the valleys contained trees of the Casuarina and Eucalyptus." Flinders.)

"Sunday, August 1st. Fine weather. At 2 P.M. the gentlemen with their parties returned to the beach. We all embarked in the Investigator's boat, got on board the Lady Nelson; at 3 P.M. came to in 5 fathoms, Captain Flinders then left us. At 7 P.M. the Commodore weighed; hove up and followed him with all sail. At noon saw the looming of Sandy Cape east by south 7 or 8 leagues.

"Monday, August 2nd. Fine weather. At 1 P.M. Commodore on our lee beam 2 miles; quarter past 5 P.M. the Commodore came to, at half-past we came to under the stern of the Commodore. At 6 A.M. got under weigh. At 10 A.M. answered signal to come within hail, the Commodore desired we would keep in shore of him.

"Tuesday, August 3rd. Fine weather. At 4 P.M. Bustard Bay bore west-north-west distant 3 or 4 miles. On this point a very large fire was burning and numbers of natives were there. Hauled in for the Bay and shoaled our water; came to in 5 fathoms water. At sundown lowered down small boats and waited on the Commander. At 6 A.M. made sail with the Investigator, passed the first rock lying off the western point of Bustard Bay.

Wednesday, August 4th. At half-past 3 perceived one of the Investigator's boats to be adrift, bore away to pick her up. At sundown the western extremes of the land bore west-south-west distant 15 miles. At 8 P.M. passed the stern of the Commodore who hailed us and told us he would tack every two hours during the night. At daylight saw the land bearing south-south-east. At noon the northern point of Bustard Bay bore south-south-east distant 4 or 5 leagues.

"Thursday, August 5th. Kept slipping along the land. At half-past 6 P.M. having run under the stern of the Commodore came to.* (* "This anchorage was 5 or 6 miles from Gatcombe Head and the chain of hills which rises near Bustard Bay was seen to stretch westward behind the shore at the back of Mount Larcom. These hills had a barren appearance, the coast being more rocky than sandy." Flinders.) At quarter past 10 A.M. the Commodore made signal I see an opening, answered ditto. Immediately after answered signal "steer in shore and look out for anchorage." Observing numbers of natives and canoes on the beach, kept running in. At quarter past 10 A.M. beheld from our masthead a large sheet of water with a rocky island in the entrance and seemingly got shelter.* (* Port Number 1 in the chart is Port Curtis so named by Captain Flinders after Sir Roger Curtis.) At 11 A.M. came to in 3 fathoms water and made the signal to the Commodore "come no nearer in," and he came to—lowered down our boat, I went and sounded in shore and found the water to deepen to 8 fathoms. Waited on the Commodore, received orders to follow his boat into the harbour—sent our people to heave up. At noon one of the Investigator's boats went on shore to the beach where the natives and their canoes were.* (* "There were seven bark canoes lying on the shore and upon a tree near hung parts of a turtle and scoop nets similar to those at Hervey Bay." Flinders.)

"Friday, August 6th. At 1 P.M. hove up and run further into the opening. I then went on shore to a small rocky island on which Captain Flinders was taking angles and we got some firewood. I went in Captain Flinders' boat across to a middling high hill* (* Called in the chart Hill View.) on the opposite side of this stream, got to the top and saw that the sheet of water ran into several serpentine branches and that apparently the deepest water was to the south-east of us; and that this south-east entrance and the one in which we lay formed a pretty large island lying in a north-west and south-east line. We joined the boat and sounded in a traverse to ascertain whether it was possible for the Lady Nelson to move higher up. We found however only from 3 to 5 feet of water and foul ground throughout a narrow space through which the vessel must pass. In consequence of which Captain Flinders desired me to get under weigh and work round the island to the south-east entrance and to find a channel into the harbour. Accordingly weighed, by 7 P.M. passed the Investigator. At daylight made all sail to gain the entrance and by 9 A.M. nearly fetched it, from the masthead at the time I saw a long range of breakers from the entrance stretching away south-east to east-south-east which made me to be in some doubts as to an entrance existing, however I sent Mr. Hacking in the boat to sound and almost immediately we struck on a sandbank. Immediately hove up our keels and she luckily veered round in 6 feet of water and went off although we still had no more water for some time, it then gradually deepened into 6 fathoms. Fired a gun for the boat who got on board by noon and informed me that a good channel did exist, and from where we were it lay about south-south-east and may be 3/4 of a mile broad—out sweep and sent the boat ahead to tow.

"Saturday, August 7th. Fine weather. Standing into the entrance south-south-west. On putting our helm to starboard we immediately had from 1 1/2 3, steering west-north-west, the Investigator on our beam bearing about north-north-east distant 8 miles, and finding our water suddenly to shoal came to in 2 fathoms and observed that a little way ahead lay a long sand sheet almost dry. Tripped our anchor and run into 5 fathoms water and there came to.* (* Off South-trees Point.) Fired a gun as a signal to the Commodore; observed a boat under sail a considerable distance from us in a westerly direction which I fancied was Captain Flinders in his whaleboat examining the harbour. At sunrise had out our launch and sent the First Mate in her with an armed party in search of water.

"Sunday, August 8th. After dinner I went in the small boat to examine an opening on the South shore of the harbour and to look for water of which I found some, on proceeding about a mile and a half up the opening perceived it branched into several different directions. I imagine it runs some considerable distance up into the country. On returning to the vessel I found Captain Flinders with a midshipman and boat's crew on board.* (* "The country round Port Curtis is over-spread with grass and produces the Eucalyptus. Much of the shores and low islands are overspread with Mangroves—the most common being the Rhizophora Mangle of Linn." Flinders.) At daylight Captain Flinders left us desiring me to get under weigh as soon as possible and get round to the Investigator. In working down we sounded constantly and found from 10 to 4 fathoms on each side, a safe channel for any ship and sufficiently broad to work in.

"Monday, August 9th. At 3 P.M. got under weigh and made sail out of the harbour tacking occasionally. At 4 P.M. our boat came on board from Faceing Island having found water in small quantities. By 6 P.M. we weathered the south-east point of Faceing Island and stood down towards the Investigator. At 15 past 7 P.M. struck on some sunken reef of rocks about 2 miles from the shore but immediately heaving up all our keels she went over them into deeper water without any damage.* (* See August 22nd. Half of the main keel was afterwards found gone.) At half-past 8 P.M. fired a gun and hoisted a light at the masthead which was answered by the Investigator. By midnight came to with the small bower about 2 cables lengths from the Commodore. At daylight hoisted in our boat, on the Commodore getting under weigh, we did the same. At half-past 9 A.M. passed in between the Rocky Island and Cape Capricorn. At half-past 10 Captain Flinders hailed us and told us to try for a passage in between some rocks and the main of Keppel's Bay. At 50 minutes past 11 A.M. perceived all foul ground ahead in this passage, hauled out and informed the Commodore. At noon bore up for the western part of the Bay, Cape Capricorn bearing east by south distance 10 or 11 miles.

"Tuesday, August 10th. At half-past 3 P.M. came to one cable length from the Investigator, lowered our boat and I waited on Captain Flinders. At half-past 4 P.M. Captain Flinders, some of his officers and I went on shore. On ascending one of the highest hills,* (* Named by Flinders Sea Hill.) we perceived the bay to be very extensive with several openings. Here we found a fresh water swamp and saw some ducks and redbills. At sundown Captain Flinders and party returned on board, and Captain Flinders came on board. Weighed and made all sail up the bay. Come to in 3 fathoms a large island in the mouth of the bay North distance 7 or 8 miles.

"Wednesday, August 11th. Saw Captain Flinders come out of the entrance he yesterday went into and stand along the south shore of the bay.

"Thursday, August 12th. At 3 P.M. Commodore made the signal "I want to speak to you." Immediately got the vessel under weigh and by half-past 4 P.M. passed his stern when he hailed us to come to an anchor a little distance from him. I waited on Captain Flinders who told me that at daylight I was to get under weigh and proceed to a large island* (* Hummocky Island.) (one of Keppels) and overhaul it for turtle for the use of both vessels and to get the bearings of all the islands in sight from the top of the said island as also to find whether there were wood and water upon the island. When we anchored Outermost Rock east-south-east 2 miles.

"Friday, August 13th. At 1 P.M. I went on shore to the island, on examining the beaches and rocks no water was found. I ascended all the hills and walked from one to the other nearly the whole length of the island but found no water or wood. The hills are covered with thick shrubbery and grass and full of stones, from the top of the highest part of it and looking towards the sea no more islands are to be seen than those we saw coming in. On going down to the rocks that lead to the beach we fell in with some slight drains of fresh water and further discovered two chasms in the rock, in each there might be 150 or 200 gallons of water but the difficulty of getting it to a boat hinders it being of use to vessels. On the west side is a small bight with a sandy beach in its centre but the bottom is loose and always a swell tumbling into it, indeed anchorage all round it is indifferent.

"Saturday, August 14th. By 4 P.M. having run nearly into our anchorage by the Investigator came to in 5 fathoms water. Lieutenant Fowler came on board and informed me that Captain Flinders was not yet returned from examining the harbour.

"Sunday, August 15th. Fine weather throughout. Received orders to be ready to get under weigh at daylight to-morrow morning.

"Monday, August 16th. At sundown observed all the seamen on liberty from the Investigator and Lady Nelson coming along the beach accompanied by a number of natives. Immediately Lieutenant Fowler and some of the gentlemen of the Investigator along with myself went on shore but on seeing us they began to run; however on all the seamen being sent away they suffered Mr. Brown to go near enough to reach them a few red night-caps and a tomahawk.* (* "I offered a boat to the botanists to visit South Hill. A part of the Ship's Company was allowed on shore for no Indians had been seen, but towards evening about 20 were seen with the sailors. They had been met near Cape Keppel and at first menaced our people, but finding them friendly laid aside their arms." Flinders.) They then made signs to us to be gone. They began running and were soon out of sight. These natives are a much stouter class of people than any I have yet seen (those of Jarvis Bay excepted). On returning to the beach Mr. Evans, mate, and one of the seamen belonging to the Investigator were missing. Lieutenant Fowler and the rest of the gentlemen waited until dark in hopes of their appearing and then went on board and a boat with a midshipman was immediately sent to wait at the beach but as neither appeared the boat returned. In the morning two guns were fired from the Investigator as signals and we saw two boats go to shore we supposed to search for those missing.

"Tuesday, August 17th. Seventeen of the natives came down to the beach. On seeing them a number of the officers of the Investigator went on shore. I also went.* (* Captain Flinders took a boat to Cape Keppel in order to obtain bearings.) We continued on friendly terms with them all day, and it is worth remarking that they having met Mr. Evans and the one seamen led them down to the beach and even gave them a duck each to eat on their making signs of their hunger. We had a drum, fife and fiddle on shore with us but on playing and beating they signified their displeasure and some of them ran off but on our ceasing returned. We made them presents of caps, tomahawks, etc., but they would give nothing in return. Their spears and waddas are much the same as at Sydney, they don't use the throwing stick. At daylight weighed. Came to again.* (* It took the whole day to get into the offing. A sketch of the island and of Cape Keppel was made by Mr. Westall while beating out of the bay. "After the mangrove the most common trees round Keppel Bay are the eucalyptus and a species of Cycas bearing poisonous nuts. There are Kangaroos in the woods and several bustards were seen near Cape Keppel. About the native fireplaces were the shells of crabs, the bones of turtle and remains of fern root." Flinders.)

"Wednesday, August 18th. At 1 P.M. hove up in the company with the Investigator tacked occasionally. By 4 P.M. cleared the bay and at 5 P.M. fell calm. Came to with kedge Cape Capricorn bearing south-east by east 13 or 14 miles, Cape Keppel south-south-east distant 5 or 6 miles and a large inhabited island, one of Keppel's, north-north-west distant 6 or 7 miles. At daylight again in company with Commodore made all sail. By noon passed abreast the northernmost Keppel's Island. Observed two natives on the highest part of it bellowing to us, no canoes in sight. Latitude 23 degrees 4 minutes 37 seconds south.

"Thursday, August 19th. Fine weather. Answered signal "Steer in shore and look out for anchorage" a bluff head making with the low land of the main like an entrance. As we stood in shoaled our water to 7 fathoms, made the signal to that purport. Saw a sand shoal ahead; the Investigator immediately hauled off and we did the same, saw plainly no anchorage was there, stood in and by 5 P.M. we dropped our kedge, at half-past 5 P.M. the Commodore also came to near us. At sundown the easternmost of Keppel's Islands bore south-east by east distant 10 or 12 miles the shore point south distant 2 miles. At 7 A.M. weighed in company with the Investigator.