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on his return at Smoe place near the Sieoux river &c. those men had nether powder nor lead we gave them a horn of powder and Some balls and after a delay of an hour we parted from the 2 men Reevey & Grienway and proceeded on. the wind rose and bley from the N. W. at half past 11 a.m. we arived in view of the upper Ricara villages, a Great number of womin Collecting wood on the banks, we Saluted the village with four guns and they returned the Salute by fireing Several guns in the village, I observed Several very white Lodges on the hill above the Town which the ricaras from the Shore informed me were Chyennes who had just arived-. we landed opposit to the 2d Villages and were met by the most of the men women and children of each village as also the Chyennes they all appeared anxious to take us by the hand and much rejoiced to See us return. I Steped on Shore and was Saluted by the two great Chiefs, whome we had made or given Medals to as we assend this river in 1804, and also Saluted by a great number both of Ricaras & Chyennes, as they appeared anxious to here what we had done &c. as well as to here Something about the Mandans & Minetarras. I Set my self down on the Side of the Bank and the Chiefs & brave men of the Ricaras & Chyennes formed a Cercle around me. after takeing a Smoke of Mandan tobacco which the Big white Chief who was Seated on my left hand furnished, I informed them as I had before informed the Mandans & Menitarras, where we had been what we had done and Said to the different nations in there favour and envited Some of their Chiefs to accompany us down and See their great father and receve from his own mouth his good Councils and from his own hands his bountifull gifts &c. telling pretty much the Same which I had told the mandans and menitarras. told them not to be afraid of any nation below that none would hurt them &c. a man of about 32 years of age was intreduced to me as 1st Chief of the nation this man they Call the grey eyes or _ he was absent from the Nation at the time we passed up, the man whome we had acknowledged as the principal chief informed me that the Grey eyes was a greater Chief than himself and that he had given up all his pretentions with the Flag and Medal to the Grey eyes- The principal chief of the Chyenne's was then introduced he is a Stout jolley fellow of about 35 years of age whome the Ricaras Call the Grey Eyes I also told the ricaras that I was very Sorrey to here that they were not on friendly terms with their neighbours the Mandans & Menetarras, and had not listened to what we had Said to them but had Suffered their young men to join the Sieoux who had killed 8 Mandans &c. that their young men had Stolen the horses of the Minetarras, in retaliation for those enjories the Mandans & Menetarras had Sent out a war party and killed 2 ricaras. how could they expect other nations would be at peace with them when they themselves would not listen to what their great father had told them. I further informed them that the Mandans & Menetaras had opened their ears to what we had Said to them but had Staid at home untill they were Struk that they were Still disposed to be friendly and on good terms with the ricaras, they then Saw the great Chief of the Mandans by my Side who was on his way to see his great father, and was derected by his nation & the Menetaras & Maharhas, to Smoke in the pipe of peace with you and to tell you not to be afraid to go to their towns, or take the Birds in the plains that their ears were open to our Councils and no harm Should be done to a Ricara. The Chief will Speak presently The Grey eyes Chief of the ricaras made a very animated Speach in which he mentioned his williness of following the councels which we had given them that they had Some bad young men who would not listen to the Councels but would join the Seioux, those men they had discarded and drove out of their villages, that the Seioux were the Cause of their Missunderstanding &c. that they were a bad peoples. that they had killed Several of the Ricaras Since I Saw them. That Several of the chiefs wished to accompany us down to See their great father, but wished to see the Chief who went down last Sumer return first, he expressed Some apprehention as to the Safty of that Chiefs in passing the Sieoux. that the Ricaras had every wish to be friendly with the Mandans &c. that every mandan &c. who chose to visit the ricares should be Safe that he Should Continue with his nation and See that they followed the Council which we had given them &c.- The Sun being very hot the Chyenne Chief envited us to his Lodge which was pitched in the plain at no great distance from the River. I accepted the invitation and accompanied him to his lodge which was new and much larger than any which I have Seen it was made of 20 dressed Buffalow Skins in the Same form of the Sceoux and lodges of other nations of this quarter. about this lodges was 20 others Several of them of nearly the Same Size. I enquired for the ballance of the nation and was informed that they were near at hand and would arive on tomorrow and when all together amounted to 120 Lodges after Smokeing I gave a medal of the Small size to the Chyenne Chief &c. which appeared to alarm him, he had a robe and a fleece of fat Buffalow meat brought and gave me with the meadel back and informed me that he knew that the white people were all medecine and that he was afraid of the midal or any thing that white people gave to them. I had previously explained the cause of my gveing him the medal & flag, and again told him the use of the medal and the caus of my giveing it to him, and again put it about his neck delivering him up his preasent of a roab & meat, informing him that this was the medecene which his Great father directed me to deliver to all the great Chiefs who listened to his word and followed his councils, that he had done So and I should leave the medal with him as a token of his cincerity &c. he doubled the quantity of meat, and received the medal
The Big White chief of the Mandans Spoke at some length explainin the Cause of the misunderstanding between his nation and the ricaras, informing them of his wish to be on the most freindly termes &c. the Chyennes accused both nations of being in folt. I told to them all that if they eve wished to be hapy that they must Shake off all intimecy with the Seioux and unite themselves in a Strong allience and attend to what we had told them &c. which they promesed all to do and we Smoked and parted on the best terms, the Mandan Chief was Saluted by Several Chiefs and brave men on his way with me to the river- I had requested the ricaras & Chyennes to inform me as Soon as possible of their intentions of going down with us to See their great father or not. in the evening the Great Chief requested that I would walk to his house which I did, he gave me about 2 quarts of Tobacco, 2 beaver Skins and a trencher of boiled Corn & beans to eat (as it is the Custom of all the Nations on the Missouri to give Something to every white man who enters their lodge Something to eat) this Chief informed me that none of his Chiefs wished to go down with us they all wished to See the cheif who went down return first, that the Chyennes were a wild people and were afraid to go. that they Should all listen to what I had Said. I gave him Some ribon to Suspend his Medal to and a Shell which the Snake indians gave me for which he was very much pleased.
The interpreter informed me that the Cheifs of those villages had no intention of going down. one the Cheifs of the Village on the island talkd. of going down. I returned to the boat where I found the principal Chief of the lower vilege who had Cut part of his hair and disfigured himself in Such a manner that I did not know him, he informed me the Sieux had killed his nephew and that Was in tears for him &c. we deturmind to proceed down to the Island and accordingly took the chief on board and proceeded on down to the isd village at which place we arived a little before dark and were met as before by nearly every individual of the Village, we Saluted them and landed imediately opposit the town. The one arm 2d Cheif of this village whome we had expected to accompany us down Spoke to the mandan Cheif in a loud and thretening tone which Caused me to be Some what alarmed for the Safty of that Cheif, I inform the Ricaras of this village that the Mandans had opened their ears to and fold. our Councils, that this Cheif was on his way to see their Great Father the P. of U S. and was under our protection that if any enjorey was done to him by any nation that we Should all die to a man. I told the Ricaras that they had told us lies, they promised to be at peace with the mandans & Menetarras. that our back was Scrcely turned before they went to war & Killd. them and Stole their horses &c- The Cheif then envited me & the Mandan Chief to his house to talk there. I accompanied him, after takeing a very Serimonious Smoke the 2d Cheif informd. me that he had opened his ears to what we had Said to him at the time we gave him the medal that he had not been to war against any Natn. Since, that once been to See the mandans and they were going to kill him, they had not killed the Mandans, it was the Seeoux who killed them and not the ricaras, he Said that the Mandan Cheif was as Safe as if he was in his own Vilg that he had opened his ears and Could here as well as the mandans. I then informd them what I had told the upper villages and we all become perfectly reconsiled all to each other and Smoked in the most perfect harmony we had invatations to go into their lodges and eate. I at length went to the grand Chiefs Lodge by his particelar invitation, the Mandan Chief Stuck close to me the Chief had prepd. a Supper of boiled young Corn, beens & quashes of which he gave me in Wooden bowls. he also gave me near 2 quarts of the Tobacco Seed, & informed me he had always had his ears open to what we had Said, that he was well convinced that the Seeoux was the caus of all the trouble between the Mandans & them the Ricars had Stolen horses from the Mandan which had been returned all except one which could not be got, this mischief was done by Some young men who was bad. a long Conversation of explanations took place between the Ricara & mandan Chiefs which appeared to be Satisfactory on both Sides. the Chief gave a pipe with great form and every thing appeared to be made up. I returned to the river & went to bead. the Indians contd on board. made 22 miles today only.
[Clark, August 22, 1806] Friday 22nd August 1806. rained all the last night every person and all our bedding wet, the Morning cloudy, at 8 A M. I was requested to go to the Chiefs, I walkd up and he informed me that he Should not go down but would Stay and take Care of the village and prevent the young men from doing rong and Spoke much to the Same porpt of the Grey Eyes, the 2d Chief Spoke to the Same and all they Said was only a repitition of what they had Said before. the Chief gave me some Soft Corn and the 2d Chief Some Tobacco Seed- the Interpreter Garrow informed me that he had been Speeking to the Chiefs & warriers this morning and assured me that they had no intention of going down untill the return of the Cheif who went down last Spring was a year. I told the Cheifs to attend to what we had Said to them, that in a Short time they would find our words tru and Councils good. they promised to attend Strictly to what had been Said to them, and observed that they must trade with the Sieoux one more time to get guns and powder; that they had no guns or powder and had more horses than they had use for, after they got guns and powder that they would never again have any thing to do with them &c. &c. I returned the Canoes & derected the men to prepare to Set out. Some Chyennes from two Lodges on the Main S E. Shore Came and Smoked with me and at 11 A. M we Set out haveing parted with those people who appeared to be Sorry to part with us. at this nation we found a french man by the name of Rokey who was one of our Engagees as high as the Mandans this man had Spend all his wages, and requested to return with uswe agreed to give him a passage down. I directed 2 guns to be fired. we proceeded on passed the Marapa and the We ter hoo Rivers, and landed to dry our bedding and robes &c which were all wet. here we delayed untill 6 P M. and dryed our things which were much Spoiled.
I derected 5 of the hunters to proceed on to Grouse Island a fiew miles below and hunt on that island untill we arived, we proceded on to the main N E Shore below the Island and encamped, the hunters joined us without any thing. they Saw no game on the island. we made only 17 Miles to day. below the ricaras the river widens and the Sand bars are emencely noumerous much less timber in the bottoms than above
The Chyenne's are portly Indians much the complections of the Mandans & ricaras high Cheeks, Streight limbed & high noses the men are large, their dress in Sumner is Simpelly a roab of a light buffalow Skin with or without the hair and a Breach clout & mockerson Some ware leagins and mockersons, their ornaments are but fiew and those are composed principally of Such articles as they precure from other indians Such as blue beeds, Shell, red paint rings of brass broaches &c. they also ware Bears Claws about their necks, Strips of otter Skin (which they as well as the ricaras are excessively fond of) around their neck falling back behind. their ears are cut at the lower part, but fiew of them were ornements in them, their hair is generally Cut in the forehead above their eyes and Small ornimented plats in front of each Sholder the remainder of the hair is either twisted in with horse or buffalow hair divided into two plats over the Sholder or what is most common flow's back, Their women are homely, corse feetured wide mouthes they ware Simpially a leathe habit made in a plain form of two pieces of equal length and equal weadth, which is sewen together with Sinues from the tail to about half way from the hip to the arm, a String fastens the 2 pieces together over the Sholders leaveng a flap or lapells which fall over near half way ther body both before and behind. those dresses usially fall as low as mid leg, they are frequently ornemented with beeds and Shells & Elk tuskes of which all Indians are very fond of. those dresses are als frequently Printed in various regular figures with hot sticks which are rubed on the leather with Such velosity as to nearly burn it this is very handsom. they were their hair flowing and are excessively fond of ornamenting their ears with blue beeds- this nation peacbly disposed they may be estimated at from 350 to 400 men inhabetig from 130 to 150 Lodges, they are rich in horses & Dogs, the dogs Carry a great preportion of their light baggage. they Confess to be at war with no nation except the Sieoux with whome they have ever since their remembranc been on a difencive war, with the Bands of Sieoux. as I was about to leave the Cheifs of the Chyennes lodge he requested me to Send Some traders to them, that their country was full of beaver and they would then be encouraged to Kill beaver, but now they had no use for them as they could get nothing for their skins and did not know well, how to catch beaver. if the white people would come amongst them they would become acquainted and the white people would learn them how to take the beaver-. I promised the Nation that I would inform their Great father the President of the U States, and he would have them Supplied with goods, and mentioned in what manner they would be Supplied &c. &c.
I am happy to have it in my power to Say that my worthy friend Capt Lewis is recovering fast, he walked a little to day for the first time. I have discontinud the tent in the hole the ball came out
I have before mentioned that the Mandans Maharhas Menetarras & Ricarras, keep their horses in the Lodge with themselves at night.
[Clark, August 23, 1806] Saturday 23rd August 1806 We Set out very early, the wind rose & became very hard, we passed the Sar-war-kar-na-har river at 10 A. M and at half past eleven the wind became So high and the water So rough that we were obliged to put to Shore and Continue untill 3 p. M. when we had a Small Shower of rain after which the wind lay, and we proceeded on. Soon after we landed I Sent Shields & Jo. & Reubin Fields down to the next bottom of timber to hunt untill our arival. we proceeded on Slowly and landed in the bottom. the hunters had killed three Elk and 3 Deer the deer were pore and Elk not fat had them fleece & brought in. the Musqueters large and very troublesom. at 4 P. M a Cloud from the N W with a violent rain for about half an hour after the rain we again proceeded on. I observe great quantities of Grapes and Choke Cheries, also a Speces of Currunt which I had never before observed the leas is larger than those above, the Currt. black and very inferior to either the yellow, red, or perple- at dark we landed on a Small Sand bar under a Bluff on the S W. Side and encamped, this Situation was one which I had Chosen to avoid the Musquetors, they were not very troublesom after we landed. we Came only 40 Miles to daye
My Frend Capt Lewis is recoverig fast the hole in his thy where the Ball passed out is Closed and appears to be nearly well. the one where the ball entered discharges very well-.
[Clark, August 24, 1806] Sunday 24th August 1806 a fair morning we Set out as usial about Sunrise and proceeded on untill 2 P M when the wind blew So hard from the N. W. that we could not proceed came too on the S W. Side where we continued untill 5 P.M. when the wind lay a little and we again proceeded on. at 8 a M. we passed La-hoo-catts Island, opposit the lower point of this Island on the S. W. Side near the top of the Bluff I observed a Stratea of White stone I landed and examined it found it to be a Soft White Stone containing very fine grit, when expd. to the Sun and become Dry this Stone will Crumble the Clay of this bluff to the above and below is remarkably Black. at half past 9 a.m. passed Good hope Island and at 11 a. m passed Caution Island a Short distance below this Island we came too. Sent out a hunter he Saw Several deer they were very wild and he returned without haveing killed any, the deer on this pt. of the Missouri is mostly the Mule or black tail Species. we Saw only 6 buffalow to day the Sieoux have been laterly encamped on the river and have Secured the most of the game opp. a large trail has passed on a derection to the enterance of the Chyenne this probably is the trail of a war party. at 5 P.M. we proceeded on a fiew miles and Encampd. on the gouge of the lookout bend of 20 miles around and 3/4 through, a little above an old tradeing house and 4 miles above of our outward bound encampment of the 1st of October 1804, haveing made 43 miles to day.
[Clark, August 25, 1806] Monday 25th August 1806 a cool clear morning a Stiff breeze ahead we Set out at the usial hour and proceeded on very well. I derected Shields Collins Shannon and the two fieldses to proceed on in the two small Canoes to the Ponia Island and hunt on that Island untill we came on, they Set out before day light The Skirt of timber in the bend above the Chyenne is not very Considerable the timber is Scattered from 4 to 16 miles on the S W Side of the river, and the thickest part is at the distance of 6 & 10 miles from the Chyenne, a narrow bottom of Small Cotton trees is also on the N E pt. at the distance of from 4 to 41/2 miles above the Chyenne imediately at the enterance of that river I observe but fiew large trees Some Small Growth and willows on the lower Side bottom on the Missouri about 1/2 a mile and extends up the Chyen 1 mile about a quarter of a mile above is a 2d bottom of Cotton timber, in the point above the Chyenne there is a considerable bottom of about 2 miles on that river and a large timbered bottom a Short distance above. at 8 A.M. we Came to at the mouth of the Chyenne to delay untill 12 to make a meridian observation and derected 3 hunters to proced up this river and hunt its bottoms untill twelve at which hou we Shall proceed on. the hunters returned with 2 deer the Chyenne discharges but little water which is much the colour of the missouri tho not So muddy I observe a very eligable Situation on the bank of the Chyenne on it's lower Side about 100 paces from it's enterance. this Situation is above the high floods and has a perfect Command of each river we obtained a Meridian altitude with the Sextt. and artificial Horizon 112 50' 00"- after which we proceeded on passed the pania Island and came up with Shields and Collins they had killed two deer only at 3 P M we passed the place where we Saw the last encampement of Troubleson Tetons below the old ponia village on the S W Side. a very large timbered bottom on the N. E. Side imedialely below the Pania Island. Latd. of Chyenne is _ North. at Sunset we landed about the Center of a large bottom on the N E Side a little below the enterance of No timber Creek and below our Encampment of 29th of Septr. 1804. dreyer killed a deer after we encamped. a little above our encampmt. the ricaras had formerly a large village on each Side which was destroyed by the Seioux. there is the remains of 5 other villages on the S W. Side below the Chyenne river and one on Le ho catts Isld. all those villages have been broken up by the Seioux. This day proved a fine Still day and the men played their oars and we made 48 miles to day. The 2 fields and Shannon did not join this evening which caused me to encamp earlier than usial for them. we Saw no game on the plains today. the Tetons have been on the river not long Since
[Clark, August 26, 1806] Tuesday 26th of August 1806 a heavy dew this morning the hunters or Shannon & the 2 fields came up at Sunrise and we Set out, they had killed only 2 Small deer one of which they had eat at 8 passed the place the Tetons were encamped at the time they attempted to Stop us in Septr. 1804, and at 9 A.M. passed the enterance of Teton River. Saw Several black tail or Mule deer and Sent out to kill them but they were wild and the hunters Could not get a Shot at either of them. a fiew miles below the Teton river I observed a buffalow Skin Canoe lying on the S Shore and a Short distance lower a raft which induces me to Suspect that the Tetons are not on the Missouri at the big bend as we were informed by the Ricaras, but up the Teton river. at Meridn. we halted on the N E. Side opposit a handsom leavel plain in which there is great quantities of plumbs which are not yet ripe. we passed the enteranc of Smoke Creek and landed and Continued two hours to Stop a leak in the perogue and fix the Stearing oare, Saw great quantities of Grapes, they are black tho not thurerly ripe. at 5 P M. we landed a Louisells fort on Ceder Island, this fort is entire and every part appears to be in the Same state it was when we passed it in Septr. 1804. I observed the appearance of 3 fires in the houses which appeared to have been made 10 or 12 days past. we proceeded on about 10 miles lower and encamped on the S. W. Side opposit our outward bound encampment of the 21st of Septr. 1804, a fiew miles above Tylors River. we had a Stiff breeze from the S. E. which continued to blow the greater part of the night dry and pleasent. as we were now in the Country where we were informed the Sceoux were assembled we were much on our guard deturmined to put up with no insults from those bands of Seioux, all the arms &. in perfect order. Capt. L. is Still on the mending hand he walks a little. I have discontinued the tent in the hole where the ball entered, agreeable to his request. he tells me that he is fully Convinced that the wound is sufficiently heeled for the tents to be discontinued. we made 60 miles to day with the wind ahead greater part of the day-
[Clark, August 27, 1806] Wednesday 27th Augt. 1806 Set out before Sunrise a Stiff breeze a head from the East proceeded to the enterance of Tylors river on the S W Side and landed on a Sand bar and Sent out the hunters to kill Some meat, our Stock of meat being now exousted and this the most favourable place to precure a fresh Supply, the hunters returned in 3 hours without haveing killed any thing. they informed me that the bottoms were entirely beaten up and the grass laid flat by the emence number of Buffalow which had been here a Short time past. the deer had left the bottom. they Saw several Buffalow Bulls which they did not think proper to kill as they were unfit for use. here we discover the first Signs of the wild turkey. at 1 P M we halted in the big bend and killed a fat buck elk near the river, which was very timely as our meat was entirely exhosted. at 2 P. M we again proceeded on down saw Several Buffalow Bulls on each Side of the river also Some deer of the Common kind at 6 P.M. we herd the bellowing of the Buffalow Bulls in the lower Isld. of the Big bend below the Gouge which induced a belief that there was Some fat Cows, 5 men went out from the 2 Small Canoes which was a little a head, and killed two Cows one Bull and a Calf nether of them wer fat we droped the Perogue & Canoes to the lower part of the Island near to where the buffalow was killed and incamped haveing Come 45 Miles only to day. had the buffalow butched and brought in and divided. My friend Capt Lewis hurt himself very much by takeing a longer walk on the Sand bar in my absence at the buffalow than he had Strength to undergo, which Caused him to remain very unwell all night.
[Clark, August 28, 1806] Thursday 28th of August 1806 Capt Lewis had a bad nights rest and is not very well this morning. we Set out early and proceded on very well, Saw a number of Buffalow bulls on the banks in different places. passd the 3 rivers of the Seioux pass at 9 A.M. a Short distance below on the S W Side Sent out Reubin & Joseph Feild to hunt for the Mule deer or the antilope neither of which we have either the Skins or Scellitens of, we detected those two men to proceed on down to the places we encamped the 16th & 17th of Septr. 1804 and which place the party had called pleasant Camp from the great abundance of Game Such as Buffalow Elk, antilopes, Blacktail or mule deer, fallow deer, common deer wolves barking Squirels, Turkies and a variety of other animals, aded to which there was a great abundance of the most delicious plumbs and grapes. this Situation which is a Short distance above the enterance of Corvus Creek we are deturmined to delay one day for the purpose of prcureing the sceletins of the Mule deer & antilope, and Some barking Squirels. a fiew miles below the place the 2 Fields were Set on Shore we Set Drewyer and Labeech on Shore with the Same directions which had been given to the 2 field's at 12 oClock we Landed on the S W. Side at the Same Spot which we had encamped on the 16th and 17th of September 1804, and formed a Camp, Sent out Serjt. Pryor, Shields, Go. Gibson, Willard and Collins to hunt in the plains up Corvus Creek for the Antilope and Mule deer Sent out Bratten and Frazier to kill the barking Squirel, and Gave directions to all of them to kill the Magpye if they Should See any of them Several of the men and the Squaws of the enterpreter Jessomme and the Mandan Chief went to Some plumb bushes in the bottom and geathered more plumbs than the party Could eate in 2 days, those blumbs are of 3 Speces, the most of them large and well flavored. our Situation is pleasent a high bottom thinly timbered and covered with low grass without misquitors. at 3 P. M Drewyer and Labeech arived, the latter haveing killd. a Deer of the Common Speceis only. in the evening late all the hunters returned without any Speces of animal we were in want of, they killed 4 Common deer and two buffalow a part of the best of the meat of those animals they brought in. we precured two of the barking Squirels only. as we Could not precere any Mule deer or antelope we concluded to Send the hunters on a head early in the morning and delay untill 10 A. M to give them time to hunt. I derected Shannon & Collins to go on the opposit Side, and Labeech and Willard to proceed down on this Side at Some distance from the river and join the party at the round Island &c. and R. Field to proceed on Slowly in the Small Canoe to that place and take in any thing which the hunters might kill. Made 32 miles to day
The hunters informed me that they Saw great numbers of Buffalow in the plains. I Saw Several herds of those animals on either Side to day at a distance.
[Clark, August 29, 1806] Friday 29th August 1806 a cloudy morning the hunters proceeded on agreeable to their orders of last night. I Sent out two men to the village of barking Squirels with direcitions to kill Some of them. they after 2 hours returned and informed me that not one of those Squirels were to be Seen out of their holes. the Skins of the party which they had been dressing Since yesterday being now completely dressed I derected all loose baggage to be put on board the Canoes and at 10 A.M. Set out and proceeded on passed the white river at 12 oClock and halted below the enterance of Shannons Creek where we were joined by Labeech Shannon and Willard, they had killed 2 common der but no Mule deer or antilopes. Willard informed me that he Saw 2 antilopes but Could not get near to them. Willard and Labiech waded white river a fiew miles above its enterance and inform me that they found it 2 feet water and 200 yards wide. the water of this river at this time nearly as white as milk. put Drewyer out to hunt on the S W. Side and proceeded on below the round Island and landed on the N. E. Side I with Several of the men went out in pursute of Buffalow. the men killed 2 Bulls near me they were very por I assended to the high Country and from an eminance, I had a view of the plains for a great distance. from this eminance I had a view of a greater number of buffalow than I had ever Seen before at one time. I must have Seen near 20,000 of those animals feeding on this plain. I have observed that in the country between the nations which are at war with each other the greatest numbers of wild animals are to be found- on my return to the river I killed 2 young deer. after Dinner we proceeded down the river about 3 mile to the Camp of Jo. & Rubin fields and Collins, and encamped on the S W. Side a little below our encampment of 13th Septr. 1804, haveing made 20 Miles only. neither of the hunters killed either a Black tail deer or an antilope. Jo. Fields & Shields each killed a porcupin and two others of the hunters Killed Deer, Drewyer did not join us untill 10 P.M. he informed that he Saw some antilopes and Mule deer but Could kill none of them. Jo. Field informed that he wounded female of the Mule deer a little below our Camp late in the evening and could not prosue her I directed him to Set out with 3 others and follow the Deer and get her if possible early in the morning.
[Clark, August 30, 1806] Saturday 30th of August 1806 Capt. Lewis is mending Slowly. we set out at the usial hour and proceeded on very well a fiew miles Jo Field who was on the Shore being behind I derected one of the Small Canoes with R. Fields & Shannon to continue on the point of a Sand bar untill he corns up. I took 3 hunters and walked on the N E Shore with a view to kill Some fat meet. we had not proceeded far before Saw a large plumb orchd of the most deelicious plumbs, out of this orchard 2 large Buck Elks ran the hunters killed them. I Stoped the Canoes and brought in the flesh which was fat and fine. here the party Collected as many plumbs as they could eate and Several pecks of which they put by &c. after a delay of nearly 2 hours we again proceeded on downwards passed 3 Small Islands and as we were about to land at the place appointed to wait for the 2 fields and Shannon, I saw Several men on horseback which with the help of a Spie glass I found to be Indians on the high hills to the N E we landed on the S. W. Side and I sent out two men to a village of Barking Squirels to kill Some of those animals imedeatily after landing about 20 indians was discovered on an eminanc a little above us on the opposite Side. one of those men I took to be a freinch man from his a blanket Capoe & a handkerchief around his head. imediately after 80 or 90 Indian men all armed with fusees & Bows & arrows Came out of a wood on the opposite bank about 1/4 of a mile below us. they fired of their guns as a Salute we returned the Salute with 2 rounds. we were at a loss to deturmin of what nation those indians were. from their hostile appearance we were apprehensive they were Tetons. but from the Country through which they roved we were willing to believe them eithe the Yanktons, Ponars or Mahars either of which nations are well disposed towards the white people. I deturmined to find out who they were without running any resque of the party and indians, and therefore took three french men who could Speak the Mahar Pania and some Seioux and in a Small canoe I went over to a Sand bar which extended Sufficently near the opposite Shore to Converse. imedeately after I Set out 3 young men Set out from the opposite Side and Swam next me on the Sand bar. I derected the men to Speak to them in the Pania and mahar Languages first neither of which they could understand I then derected the man who could Speak a fiew words of Seioux to inquire what nation or tribe they belong to they informed me that they were Tetons and their Chief was Tar-tack-kah-sabbar or the black buffalow This Chief I knew very well to be the one we had seen with his band at Teton river which band had attempted to detain us in the fall of 1804 as we assended this river and with whome we wer near comeing to blows. I told those Indians that they had been deef to our councils and ill treated us as we assended this river two years past, that they had abused all the whites who had visited them since. I believed them to be bad people & Should not Suffer them to cross to the Side on which the party lay, and directed them to return with their band to their Camp, that if any of them come near our camp we Should kill them certainly. I lef them on the bear and returned to th party and examined the arms &c. those indians seeing Some Corn in the Canoe requested Some of it which I refused being deturmined to have nothing to do with those people. Several others Swam across one of which understood pania, and as our pania interpreter was a very good one we had it in our power to inform what we wished. I told this man to inform his nation that we had not forgot their treatment to us as we passed up this river &c. that they had treated all the white people who had visited them very badly; robed them of their goods, and had wounded one man whome I had Seen. we viewed them as bad people and no more traders would be Suffered to come to them, and whenever the white people wished to visit the nations above they would Come Sufficiently Strong to whip any vilenous party who dare to oppose them and words to the Same purpote. I also told them that I was informed that a part of all their bands were gorn to war against the Mandans &c, and that they would be well whiped as the Mandans & Menetarres & had a plenty of Guns Powder and ball, and we had given them a Cannon to defend themselves. and derected them to return from the Sand bar and inform their Chiefs what we had Said to them, and to keep away from the river or we Should kill every one of them &c. &c. those fellows requested to be allowed to Come across and make Cumerads which we positively refused and I directed them to return imediately which they did and after they had informed the Chiefs &c. as I Suppose what we had Said to them, they all Set out on their return to their Camps back of a high hill. 7 of them halted on the top of the hill and blackguarded us, told us to come across and they would kill us all &c. of which we took no notice. we all this time were extreamly anxious for the arival of the 2 fields & Shannon whome we had left behind, and were Some what consd. as to their Safty. to our great joy those men hove in Sight at 6 P.M. Jo. Fields had killed 3 black tail or mule deer. we then Set out, as I wished to See what those Indians on the hill would act. we Steared across near the opposit Shore, this notion put them Some agitation as to our intentions, some Set out on the direction towards their Camps others walked about on the top of the hill and one man walked down the hill to meet us and invited us to land to which invitation I paid no kind of attention. this man I knew to be the one who had in the fall 1804 accompaned us 2 days and is Said to be the friend to the white people. after we passd. him he returned on the top of the hill and gave 3 Strokes with the gun he had in his hand this I am informed is a great oath among the indians. we proceeded on down about 6 miles and encamped on a large Sand bar in the middle of the river about 2 miles above our encampment on Mud Island on the 10th Septr. 1804 haveing made 22 miles only to Day. Saw Several Indians on the hills at a distance this evening viewing us. our encampment of this evening was a very disagreable one, bleak exposed to the winds, and the Sand wet. I pitched on this Situation to prevent being disturbed by those Scioux in the Course of the night as well as to avoid the Musquetors-. Killed 9 whistleing squirels.
[Clark, August 31, 1806] Saturday 31st August 1806 all wet and disagreeable this morning. at half past 11 last night the wind Shifted about to the N. W. and it began to rain with hard Claps of thunder and lightning the Clouds passd over and the wind Shifted about to the S W. & blew with great violence So much So that all hands were obliged to hold the Canoes & Perogue to prevent their being blown off from the Sand bar, however a Suden Squal of wind broke the cables of the two Small Canoes and with Some dificuelty they were got to Shore Soon after the 2 Canoes in which Sergt. Pryor and the indians go in broke loose with wiser and Willard in them and were blown quite across the river to the N E. Shore where fortunately they arived Safe, I Sent Sergt. Jo Ordway with a Small perogue and 6 men to prosue the 2 Canoes and assist them in effecting a landing, those 2 Canoes being tied together 2 men could not manage them, the wind Slackened a little and by 2 A.M. Sergt Ordway with willard wiser and the 2 Canoes returned all Safe, the wind continud to blow and it rained untill day light all wet and disagreeable. all the party examind their arms and put them in order and we Set out and proceeded on down. Saw Several Indians on the hills untill we passed the Island of Cedar 9 A. M the morning Cloudy and wind down the the river at 4 P.M. passed the doome and lowest village of Barking Squirels. this is also the highest up the river where I observed the fox Squirel in the bottom above the doome on N. E Side I killed 2 fox Squirels. we Saw no game of any kind to day as the banks as usial. the Sun Shone with a number of flying Clouds. we encamped on the N. E. Side a little below our Encampment of the 5th of Septr. on no preserve Island haveing Come 70 Miles.
[Clark, September 1, 1806] Monday 1st of September 1806 Musquitors very troublesom last night, we set out at the usial hour and had not proceeded on far before the fog became So thick that we were oblige to come too and delay half an hour for the fog to pass off which it did in Some measure and we again proceded on R. Jo. Fields and Shannon landed on an Ponceras Island to try to kill Some deer which was Seen on the beech and the Canoes all passed them at 9 A. M we passed the enterance of River Quiequur which had the Same appearance it had when we passed up water rapid and of a milky white Colour about two miles below the Quicurre, 9 Indians ran down the bank and beckened to us to land, they appeared to be a war party, and I took them to be Tetons and paid no kind of attention to them further than an enquirey to what tribe they belonged, they did not give me any answer, I prosume they did not understand the man who Spoke to them as he Spoke but little of their language. as one Canoe was yet behind we landed in an open Commanding Situation out of Sight of the indians deturmined to delay untill they Came up. about 15 minits after we had landed Several guns were fired by the indians, which we expected was at the three men behind. I calld out 15 men and ran up with a fill deturmination to Cover them if possible let the number of the indians be what they might. Capt Lewis hobled up on the bank and formed the remainder of the party in a Situation well calculated to defend themselves and the Canoes &c. when I had proceeded to the point about 250 yards I discovered the Canoe about 1 mile above & the indians where we had left them. I then walked on the Sand beech and the indians came down to meet me I gave them my hand and enquired of them what they were Shooting at, they informed me that they were Shooting off their guns at an old Keg which we had thrown out of one of the Canoes and was floating down. those Indians informed me they were Yanktons, one of the men with me knew one of the Indians to be the brother of young Durion's wife. finding those indians to be Yanktons I invited them down to the boats to Smoke. when we arived at the Canoes they all eagerly Saluted the Mandan Chief, and we all Set and Smoked Several pipes. I told them that we took them to be a party of Tetons and the fireing I expected was at the three men in the rear Canoe and I had went up with a full intention to kill them all if they had been tetons & fired on the Canoe as we first expected, but finding them Yanktons and good men we were glad to See them and take them by the hand as faithfull Children who had opened their ears to our Councils. one of them Spoke and Said that their nation had opened their years, & done as we had directed them ever Since we gave the Meadel to their great Chief, and Should Continue to do as we had told them we enquired if any of their Chiefs had gone down with Mr. Durion, the answered that their great Chief and many of their brave men had gone down, that the white people had built a house near the Mahar village where they traded. we tied a piec of ribon to each mans hair and gave them Some Corn of which they appeared much pleased. The Mandan Cheif gave a par of elegant Legins to the principal man of the indian party, which is an indian fashion. the Canoe & 3 men haveing joined us we took our leave of this party telling them to return to their band and listen to our councils which we had before given to them. Their band of 80 Lodges were on plum Creek a fiew miles to north. those nine men had five fusees and 4 bows & quivers of arrows. at 2 P.M. we came too on the upper point of bon homme opposit the antient fortification and Sent out men to hunt on each Side and on the island. and the canoes on each Side of the island to receive any meat might be killed I walked on the N. E. main Shore found the bottom rich and thickly covered with Peavine rich weed grass interwoven in Such a manner with grape vines that I could not get through and was obliged to assend a high plains the passing through which I also found tiresom. the grass was nearly as high as my head and the musquitors excessively bad. at the lower point of the Island all the Canoes & hunters Came together. Labeech killed an Elk only the flesh of which was brought on in the perogue. at this island we brought 2 years together or on the 1st of Septr. 1804 we Encamped at the lower point of this Island. after we all Came together we again proceeded on down to a large Sand bar imediately opposit to the place were we met the Yanktons in Council at the Calumet Bluffs and which place we left on the it of Septr. 1804. I observed our old flag Staff or pole Standing as we left it. the musquitors excessively troublesom untill about 10 P.M. when the S W wind became Strong and blew the most of them off. we came 52 miles to day only with a head wind. the Country on either Side are butifull and the plains much richer below the Queiquer river than above that river.
[Clark, September 2, 1806] Tuesday 2nd of September 1806 Set out at the usial hour passed the River Jacque at 8 A.M. in the first bottom below on the N E. Side I observed the remains of a house which had been built since we passed up, this most probably was McClellins tradeing house with the Yanktons in the Winter of 1804 & 5 the wind was hard a head & continued to increas which obliged us to lay by nearly all day. as our Store of meat, I took with me 8 men and prosued a Small Gang of Cows in the plains 3 miles and killed two which was in very good order, had them butchered and each man took a load as much as he Could Carry and returned to the Canoes, the wind Still high and water rough we did not Set out untill near Sun Set we proceded to a Sand bar a Short distance below the place we had Come too on account of the wind and Encamped on a Sand bar, the woods being the harbor of the Musquetors and the party without the means of Screaning themselves from those tormenting insects. on the Sand bars the wind which generaly blows moderately at night blows off those pests and we Sleep Soundly. The wind Continued to blow hard from the Same point S. E untill 3 P. M I saw in my walk to day Lynn and Slipery Elm. the plains are tolerably leavel on each Side and very fertile. I saw 4 prarie fowls Common to the Illinois, those are the highest up which have been Seen, white Oak is very Common also white ash on the riveens and high bottoms. two turkys killed to day of which the Indians very much admired being the first which they ever Saw. Capt L. is mending fast- we made only 22 Miles to day.
[Clark, September 3, 1806] Wednesday 3rd of September 1806 Wind Continued to blow very hard this morning. it Shifted last night to the S. W. and blew the Sand over us in Such a manner as to render the after part of the night very disagreeable. the wind luled a little and we Set out and proceeded on with the wind a head passed the enterance of redstone River on the N E. Side at 11 A M. and at half past 4 P. M we Spied two boats & Several men, our party peyed their Ores and we Soon landed on the Side of the Boats the men of these boats Saluted us with their Small arms I landed & was met by a Mr. James Airs from Mackanaw by way of Prarie Dechien and St. Louis. this Gentleman is of the house of Dickson & Co. of Prarie de Chian who has a Licence to trade for one year with the Sieoux he has 2 Batteaux loaded with Merchendize for that purpose. This Gentleman receved both Capt. Lewis and my Self with every mark of friendship he was himself at the time with a chill of the agu on him which he has had for Several days. our first enquirey was after the President of our country and then our friends and the State of the politicks of our country &c. and the State Indian affairs to all of which enquireys Mr. Aires gave us as Satisfactory information as he had it in his power to have Collected in the Illinois which was not a great deel. soon after we Landed a violent Storm of Thunder Lightning and rain from the N W. which was violent with hard Claps of thunder and Sharp Lightning which continued untill 10 P M after which the wind blew hard. I set up late and partook of the tent of Mr. Aires which was dry. Mr. Aires unfortunately had his boat Sunk on the 25 of July last by a violent Storm of Wind and hail by which accident he lost the most of his usefull articles as he informd. us. this Gentleman informed us of maney Changes & misfortunes which had taken place in the Illinois amongst others the loss of Mr. Cady Choteaus house and furniture by fire. for this misfortune of our friend Choteaus I feel my Self very much Concernd &c. he also informed us that Genl. Wilkinson was the governor of the Louisiana and at St. Louis. 300 of the american Troops had been Contuned on the Missouri a fiew miles above it's mouth, Some disturbance with the Spaniards in the Nackatosh Country is the Cause of their being Called down to that Country, the Spaniards had taken one of the U, States frigates in the Mediteranean, Two British Ships of the line had fired on an American Ship in the port of New York, and killed the Capts. brother. 2 Indians had been hung in St. Louis for murder and several others in jale. and that Mr. Burr & Genl. Hambleton fought a Duel, the latter was killed &c. &c. I am happy to find that my worthy friend Capt L's is so well as to walk about with ease to himself &c., we made 60 Miles to day the river much crowded with Sand bars, which are very differently Situated from what they were when we went up.
[Clark, September 4, 1806] Thursday 4th September 1806 The Musquitors became troublesom early this morning I rose at the usial hour found all the party as wet as rain could make them. as we were in want of Some tobacco I purposed to Mr. Airs to furnish us with 4 Carrots for which we would Pay the amount to any Merchant of St. Louis he very readily agreed to furnish us with tobacco and gave to each man as much as it is necessary for them to use between this and St. Louis, an instance of Generossity for which every man of the party appears to acknowledge. Mr. Airs also insisted on our accepting a barrel of flourwe gave to this gentleman what Corn we Could Spear amounting to about 6 bushels, this Corn was well Calculated for his purpose as he was about to make his establishment and would have it in his power to hull the Corn & The flower was very acceptable to us. we have yet a little flour part of what we carried up from the Illinois as high as Maria's river and buried it there untill our return &c. at 8 A. M we took our leave and Set out, and proceeded on very well, at 11 A.M. passed the Enterance of the big Sieoux River which is low, and at meridian we came too at Floyds Bluff below the Enterance of Floyds river and assended the hill, with Capt Lewis and Several men, found the grave had been opened by the nativs and left half Covered. we had this grave Completely filled up, and returned to the Canoes and proceeded on to the Sand bar on which we encamped from the 12th to the 20th of August 1804 near the Mahar Village, here we came to and derected every wet article put out to dry, all the bedding of the party and Skins being wet. as it was late in the evening we deturmined to continue all night. had issued to each man of the party a cup of flour. we See no Species of Game on the river as usial except wild geese and pelicans. I observed near Sergt Floyds Grave a number of flurishing black walnut trees, these are the first which I have seen decending the river. a little before night Several Guns were heard below and in a direction towards the Mahar village which induced us to suspect that Mr. McClellin who we was informed was on his way up to trade with the Mahars had arived at the Creek below and that those reports of Guns was Some of his party out hunting. every thing being dry we derected the Perogue & Canoes to be loaded and in readiness to Set out in the morning early. at dark the Musquetors became troublesom and continued So all night the party obtained but little Sleep- we made 36 miles only to daye.
[Clark, September 5, 1806] Friday 5th September 1806 The Musquetors being So excessively tormenting that the party was all on board and we Set out at day light and proceeded on very well. here the river is bordered on both sides with timber &c becoms much narrower more Crooked and the Current more rapid and Crouded with Snags or Sawyers than it is above, and continus So all day. We did not meet with McClellen as we expected at the Creek. the report of the guns which was heard must have been the Mahars who most probably have just arrived at their village from hunting the buffalow. this is a Season they usialy return to their village to Secure their Crops of Corn Beens punkins &c &c. proceeded on very well passd. the blue Stone bluff at 3 P. M here the river leaves the high lands and meanders through a low rich bottom. Encamped on the S W Side on a Sand bar at a cut off a little below our Encampment of the 9th of August 1804. haveing made 73 Miles to day- Capt. Lewis still in a Convelesent State. We Saw no game on the Shores to day worth killig only Such as pelicans Geese ducks, Eagles and Hawks &c.-
[Clark, September 6, 1806] Saturday 6th of September 1806 The Musquetors excessively troublesom we Set out early at the great Cut off Saw a herd of Elk, we landed and Sent out Several hunters to kill Some of the Elk, they returnd. without killing any as the Elk was wild and ran off much fritened. I Sent the two Small Canoes on a head with derections to hunt in two bottoms below, and after a delay of half an hour proceeded on wind-hard a head at the lower point 7 of Pelecan Island a little above the Petite River de Seeoux we met a tradeing boat of Mr. Ag. Choteaux of St Louis bound to the River Jacque to trade with the Yanktons, this boat was in Care of a Mr. Henry Delorn, he had exposed all his loading and Sent out five of his hands to hunt they Soon arived with an Elk. we purchased a gallon of whiskey of this man and gave to each man of the party a dram which is the first Spiritious licquor which had been tasted by any of them Since the 4 of July 1805. Several of the party exchanged leather for linen Shirts and beaver for Corse hats. Those men Could inform us nothing more than that all the troops had movd. from the Illinois and that Genl. Wilkinson was prepareing to leave St. Louis. We advised this trader to treat the Tetons with as much Contempt as possible and Stated to him where he would be benefited by such treatment &c &c. and at 1 P. M Set out those men gave us 2 Shots from a Swivell they had on the bow of their boat which we returned in our turn. proceeded on about 3 miles and Came up with two of the hunters, they had not killd. any thing. at 5 miles we over took the Canoe of the other hunters with Shannon in it floating down, the two fields being in the woods behind we Came too on a Sand bar on the N. E. Side and delayed all the after part of the day for the two Fields, Sent out 3 men to hunt in the bottom up the river and observe if they Saw any Sign of the hunters. the evening proved Cloudy and the wind blew hard two pelicans were killed to day. we came 30 Miles only to day the 2 fieldses did not join us I think they are below. The Chief & the Squaws & children are awarey of their journey. Children cry &c.
[Clark, September 7, 1806] Sunday 7th September 1806 as we were doubtfull that the two fieldses were behind I derected Sergt. Ordway with 4 men to Continue untill Meridian and if those men did not arive by that hour to proceed on. if we met with them at any Short distance a gun Should be fired which would be a Signal for him to proceed on. we had proceeded on about 8 miles by water and the distance through not more than 1 mile when we Saw the fire of those 2 men, I derected a gun fired as a Signal for Sergt. ordway to proceed on, and took the boys on board. they had killed nothing & informed me they had been Somewhat almd. at our delay, that the distance across from the little Sieoux river was about 1 1/2 miles only, the bottoms thick and Grass very high. we proceded on with a Stiff Breeze ahead (note the evaperation on this portion of the Missouri has been noticed as we assended this river, and it now appears to be greater than it was at that time. I am obliged to replenish my ink Stand every day with fresh ink at least 9/10 of which must evaperate.) we proceded on to a bottom on the S W Side a little above the Soldiers river and Came too and Sent out all the hunters. they killed 3 Elk which was at no great distance we Sent out the men and had the flesh brought in Cooked and Dined. Sergt. Ordway Came up & after takeing a Sumptious Dinner we all Set out at 4 P M wind ahead as usial. at Dusk we came too on the lower part of a Sand bar on the S W side found the Musquetors excessively tormenting not withstanding a Stiff breeze from the S. E. a little after dark the wind increased the Musquetors dispersed our Camp of this night is about 2 miles below our Encampment of the 4th of august 1804 ascending we came 44 miles to day only
[Clark, September 8, 1806] Munday 8th September 1806 Set out very early this morning, passed an old tradeing house on the S W Side a few miles above the Council bluffs, at 11 A M we Came too at the bluffs and Capt Lewis and myself walked up on the bluffs and around to examine the Country and Situation more particularly, the Situation appeared to us eaqually as eligable as when we passed up for an establishment, the hill high and Commanding with a high rich bottom of great extent below. we proceeded on very well all being anxious to get to the River Platt to day they ply'd their orers very well, and we arived at our old encampment at White Catfish Camp 12 miles above the river platt at which place we lay from the 22th to the 26th of July 1804 here we encamped haveing made 78 Miles to day. The Missouri at this place does not appear to Contain more water than it did 1000 Miles above this, the evaperation must be emence; in the last 1000 miles this river receives the water 20 rivers and maney Creeks Several of the Rivers large and the Size of this river or the quantity of water does not appear to increas any-
[Clark, September 9, 1806] Tuesday 9th September 1806 Set out early at 8 A. M passed the enterance of the great river Platt which is at this time low the water nearly clear the Current turbelant as usial; the Sand bars which Choked up the Missouri and Confined the river to a narrow Snagey Chanel are wastd a way and nothing remains but a fiew Small remains of the bear which is covered with drift wood, below the R. Platt the Current of the Missouri becomes evidently more rapid than above and the Snags much more noumerous and bad to pass late in the evening we arived at the Bald pated prarie and encamped imediately opposit our encampment of the 16th and 17th of July 1804. haveing made 73 miles only to day. The river bottoms are extencive rich and Covered with tall large timber, and the hollows of the reveins may be Said to be covered with timber Such as Oake ash Elm and Some walnut & hickory. our party appears extreamly anxious to get on, and every day appears produce new anxieties in them to get to their Country and friends. My worthy friend Cap Lewis has entirely recovered his wounds are heeled up and he Can walk and even run nearly as well as ever he Could. the parts are yet tender &c. &.
The Musquetors are yet troublesom, tho not So much So as they were above the River platt. the Climate is every day preceptably wormer and air more Sultery than I have experienced for a long time. the nights are now So worm that I sleep Comfortable under a thin blanket, a fiew days past 2 was not more than Sufficient
[Clark, September 10, 1806] Wednesday 10th of September 1806 we Set out very early this morning and proceeded on very well with wind moderately a head at _ P M we met a Mr. Alexander La fass and three french men from St. Louis in a Small perogue on his way to the River Platt to trade with the Pania Luup or Wolf Indians. this man was extreemly friendly to us he offered us any thing he had, we axcepted of a bottle of whisky only which we gave to our party, Mr. la frost informed us that Genl. Wilkinson and all the troops had decended the Mississippi and Mr. Pike and young Mr. Wilkinson had Set out on an expedition up the Arkansaw river or in that direction after a delay of half an hour we proceedd on about 3 miles and met a large perogue and 7 Men from St. Louis bound to the Mahars for the purpose of trade, this perogue was in Charge of a Mt. La Craw, we made Some fiew enquiries of this man and again proceeded on through a very bad part of the river Crouded with Snags & Sawyers and incamped on a Sand bar about 4 miles above the Grand Nemahar. we find the river in this timbered Country narrow and more moveing Sands and a much greater quantity of Sawyers or Snags than above. Great caution and much attention is required to Stear Clear of all those dificuelties in this low State of the water. we made 65 Miles to day. we Saw Deer rackoons and turkies on the Shores to day one of the men killed a racoon which the indians very much admired.
[Clark, September 11, 1806] Thursday 11th Septr. 1806 a heavy Cloud and wind from the N W. detained us untill after Sunrise at which time we Set out and proceeded on very well, passed the nemahar which was low and did not appear as wide as when we passed up. Wolf river Scercely runs at all, at 3 P. M we halted a little above the Nadawa river on the S. Side of the Missouri to kill Some meat that which we killed a fiew days past being all Spoiled. Sent out 6 hunters they killed and brought in two Deer only, we proceeded on a fiew miles below the Nadawa Island and encamped on a Small Isld. near the N. E. Side, haveing Came 40 Miles only to day, river rapid and in maney places Crouded with Snag's. I observe on the Shores much deer Sign- the mosquitoes are no longer troublesome on the river, from what cause they are noumerous above and not So on this part of the river I cannot account. Wolves were howling in different directions this evening after we had encamped, and the barking of the little prarie wolves resembled those of our Common Small Dogs that 3/4 of the party believed them to be the dogs of Some boat assending which was yet below us. the barking of those little wolves I have frequently taken notice of on this as also the other Side of the Rocky mountains, and their Bark so much resembles or Sounds to me like our Common Small Cur dogs that I have frequently mistaken them for that Speces of dog- The papaws nearly ripe
[Clark, September 12, 1806] Friday 12th of September 1806 a thick fog a litile before day which blew off at day light. a heavy Dew this morning. we Set out at Sunrise the usial hour and proceeded on very well about 7 miles met 2 perogues from St. Louis one contained the property of Mr. Choteau bound to the panias on River Platt, the other going up trapping as high as the Mahars. here we met one of the french men who had accompanied us as high as the Mandans he informed us that Mr. McClellen was a fiew miles below the wind blew a head Soon after we pased those perogues, we Saw a man on Shore who informed us that he was one of Mr. McClellens party and that he was a Short distance below, we took this man on board and proceeded on and Met Mr. McClellin at the St. Michl. Prarie we came too here we found Mr. Jo. Gravelin the Ricaras enterpreter whome we had Sent down with a Ricaras Chief in the Spring of 1805 and old Mr. Durion the Sieux enterpreter, we examined the instructions of those interpreters and found that Gravelin was ordered to the Ricaras with a Speach from the president of the U. States to that nation and some presents which had been given the Ricara Cheif who had visited the U. States and unfortunately died at the City of Washington, he was instructed to teach the Ricaras agriculture & make every enquirey after Capt Lewis my self and the party Mr. Durion was enstructed to accompany Gravelin and through his influence pass him with his presents & by the tetons bands of Sieux, and to provale on Some of the Principal chiefs of those bands not exceeding six to Visit the Seat of the Government next Spring he was also enstructed to make every enquirey after us. we made Some Small addition to his instructions by extending the number of Chiefs to 10 or 12 or 3 from each band including the Yanktons &c. Mr. McClellin receved us very politely, and gave us all the news and occurrences which had taken place in the Illinois within his knowledge the evening proveing to be wet and Cloudy we Concluded to continue all night, we despatched the two Canoes a head to hunt with 5 hunters in them
[Clark, September 13, 1806] Saturday 13th September 1806 rose early Mr. McClellen gave each man a Dram and a little after Sunrise we Set out the wind hard a head from the S E at 8 A M we landed at the Camp of the 5 hunters whome we had Sent a head, they had killed nothing, the wind being too high for us to proceed in Safty through the emecity of Snags which was imediately below we concluded to lye by and Sent on the Small Canoes a Short distance to hunt and kill Some meat, we Sent out 2 men in the bottom they Soon returned with one turky and informed that the rushes was so high and thick that it was impossible to kill any deer. I felt my Self very unwell and derected a little Chocolate which Mr. McClellen gave us, prepared of which I drank about a pint and found great relief at 11 A.M. we proceeded on about 1 mile and come up with the hunters who had killed 4 deer, here we delayed untill 5 P. M when the hunters all joined us and we again proceded on down a fiew miles and encamped on the N E Side of the Missouri haveing decended 18 Miles only to day. the day disagreeably worm. one man George Shannon left his horn and pouch with his powder ball and knife and did not think of it untill night. I walked in the bottom in the thick rushes and the Growth of timber Common to the Illinois Such as cotton wood, Sycamore, ash mulberry, Elm of different Species, walnut, hickory, horn beem, pappaw arrow wood willow, prickly ash, &c and Grape vines, pees of 3 species &c &c. Birds most Common the buzzard Crow the hooting owl and hawks, &c. &c.-
[Clark, September 14, 1806] Sunday 14th Sept. 1806 Set out early and proceeded on very well. this being the part of the Missouri the Kanzas nation resort to at this Season of the year for the purpose of robbing the perogues passing up to other nations above, we have every reason to expect to meet with them, and agreeably to their Common Custom of examining every thing in the perogues and takeing what they want out of them, it is probable they may wish to take those liberties with us, which we are deturmined not to allow of and for the Smallest insult we Shall fire on them. at 2 P.M. a little below the lower of the old Kanzas Village we met three large boats bound to the Yanktons and Mahars the property of Mr. Lacroy, Mr. Aiten & Mr. Coutau all from St. Louis, those young men received us with great friendship and pressed on us Some whisky for our men, Bisquet, Pork and Onions, & part of their Stores, we continued near 2 hours with those boats, makeing every enquirey into the state of our friends and Country &c. those men were much affraid of meeting with the Kanzas. we Saw 37 Deer on the banks and in the river to Day 5 of which we killed those deer were Meager. we proceeded on to an Island near the middle of the river below our encampment of the 1st of July 1804 and encamped haveing decended only 53 miles to day. our party received a dram and Sung Songs untill 11 oClock at night in the greatest harmoney.
[Clark, September 15, 1806] Monday 15th of September 1806 we set out early with a Stiff Breeze a head saw Several deer Swiming the river soon after we Set out. at 11 A.M. passed the enterance of the Kanzas river which was very low, about a mile below we landed and Capt Lewis and my Self assended a hill which appeared to have a Commanding Situation for a fort, the Shore is bold and rocky imediately at the foot of the hill, from the top of the hill you have a perfect Command of the river, this hill fronts the Kanzas and has a view of the Missouri a Short distance above that river. we landed one time only to let the men geather Pappaws or the Custard apple of which this Country abounds, and the men are very fond of. we discovered a Buck Elk on a Small Island, and sent the 2 fields and Shannon in pursute of it they Soon Came up with and killed the Elk, he was large and in fine order we had his flesh Secured and divided. as the winds were unfabourable the greater part of the day we only decended 49 Miles and encamped a Short distance Above Hay Cabin Creek we are not tormented by the Musquetors in this lower portion of the river, as we were above the river plat and as high up as the Rochejhone and for a fiew miles up that river, and above its enterance into the Missouri. we passd Some of the most Charming bottom lands to day and the uplands by no means bad, all well timberd. the weather disagreeably worm and if it was not for the constant winds which blow from the S. and S E. we Should be almost Suficated Comeing out of a northern Country open and Cool between the Latd. Of 46 and 49 North in which we had been for nearly two years, rapidly decending into a woody Country in a wormer Climate between the Latds. 38& 39 North is probably the Cause of our experiencing the heat much more Senceable than those who have Continued within the parralel of Latitude.
[Clark, September 16, 1806] Tuesday 16th September 1806 we Set out early this morning and proceded on tolerably well the Day proved excessively worm and disagreeable, So much So that the men rowed but little, at 10 A M we met a large tradeing perogue bound for the Panias we continued but a Short time with them. at 11 A. M we met young Mr. Bobidoux with a large boat of six ores and 2 Canoes, the licenes of this young man was to trade with the Panias Mahars and ottoes reather an extroadanary a license for young a man and without the Seal of the teritory anexed, as Genl. Wilkensons Signeture was not to this instrement we were Somewhat doubtfull of it. Mr. Browns Signeture we were not acquainted with without the Teritorial Seal. we made Some enquireys of this young man and Cautioned him against prosueing the Steps of his brother in attempting to degrade the American Charector in the eyes of the Indians. we proceeded on to an Island a little above our encampment of the 16th & 17th of June 1804 haveing Came 52 miles only to day.
[Clark, September 17, 1806] Wednesday 17th September 1806 We Set out as usial early pass the Island of the little Osage Village which is considered by the navigater of this river to be the worst place in it. at this place water of the Missouri is confined between an Island and the S E main Shore and passes through a narrow chanel for more than 2 miles which is crouded with Snags in maney places quite across obligeing the navigater to pica, his passage between those Snags as he can, in maney places the current passing with great velocity against the banks which cause them to fall &c. at 11 A.M. we met a Captain McClellin late a Capt. of Artily of the U States Army assending in a large boat. this gentleman an acquaintance of my friend Capt. Lewis was Somewhat astonished to See us return and appeared rejoiced to meet us. we found him a man of information and from whome we received a partial account of the political State of our Country, we were makeing enquires and exchangeing answers &c. untill near mid night. this Gentleman informed us that we had been long Since given out by the people of the U S Generaly and almost forgotton, the President of the U. States had yet hopes of us; we received some civilities of Capt. McClellin, he gave us Some Buisquit, Chocolate Sugar & whiskey, for which our party were in want and for which we made a return of a barrel of corn & much obliges to him. Capt. McClellin informed us that he was on reather a speculative expedition to the confines of New Spain, with the view to entroduce a trade with those people. his plan is to proceede up this river to the Entcrance of the river platt there to form an establishment from which to trade partially with the Panas & Ottoes, to form an acquaintance with the Panias and provail Some of their principal Chiefs to accompany him to Santa Fee where he will appear in a stile calculated to atract the Spanish government in that quarter and through the influence of a handsome present he expects to be promited to exchange his merchindize for Silver & gold of which those people abound. he has a kind of introductory Speach from Govr. Wilkinson to the Panias and Ottoes and a quantity of presents of his own which he purposes distributing to the Panias and ELeatans with a view to gain their protection in the execution of his plans, if the Spanish Governmt. favour his plans, he purposes takeing his merchendize on mules & horses which Can easily be procured of the panias, to Some point convenient to the Spanish Settlements within the Louisiana Teritory to which place the inhabitants of New mexico may meet him for the purpose of trade &c. Capt McClellins plan I think a very good one if strictly prosued &c.
we Sent 5 hunters a head with directions to halt below Grand river and hunt untill we arived which would be in the morning. This day proved worme. we decended only 30 miles to day and encamped 4 miles above Grand river on S E. Side.
[Clark, September 18, 1806] Thursday 18th of September 1806 we rose early Capt McClellin wrote a letter and we took our leave, and proceeded on passed the Grand river at 7 A M. a Short distance below we came up with our hunters, they had killed nothing. at 10 oClock we Came too and gathered pottows to eate we have nothing but a fiew Buisquit to eate and are partly compelled to eate poppows which we find in great quantities on the Shores, the weather we found excessively hot as usial. the lands fine particularly the bottoms. a charming Oake bottom on the S E Side of the Missouri above the 2 Charletons rivers we find the Current of this part of the Missouri much more jentle than it was as we assended, the water is now low and where it is much confin'd it is rapid. we saw very little appearance of deer, Saw one bear at a distance and 3 turkeys only to day. our party entirely out of provisions Subsisting on poppaws. we divide the buiskit which amounted to nearly one buisket per man, this in addition to the poppaws is to last is down to the Settlement's which is 150 miles the party appear perfectly contented and tell us that they can live very well on the pappaws. we made 52 miles to day only. one of our party J. Potts complains very much of one of his eyes which is burnt by the Sun from exposeing his face without a cover from the Sun. Shannon also complains of his face & eyes &c. Encamped on an Island nearly opposit to the enterance of Mine river.
[Clark, September 19, 1806] Friday 19th of Sept. 1806 Set out this morning a little after day & proceeded on very well the men ply their oares & we decended with great velocity, only Came too once for the purpose of gathering pappows, our anxiety as also the wish of the party to proceed on as expeditiously as possible to the Illinois enduce us to continue on without halting to hunt. we Calculate on ariveing at the first Settlements on tomorrow evening which is 140 miles, and objecet of our party is to divide the distance into two days, this day to the Osarge River, and tomorrow to the Charriton a Small french Village- we arived at the Enterance of Osage River at dark and encamped on the Spot we had encamped on the 1st & 2d of June 1804 haveing Came 72 miles. a very singular disorder is takeing place amongst our party that of the Sore eyes. three of the party have their eyes inflamed and Sweled in Such a manner as to render them extreamly painfull, particularly when exposed to the light, the eye ball is much inflaimed and the lid appears burnt with the Sun, the cause of this complaint of the eye I can't account for. from it's Sudden appearance I am willing to believe it may be owing to the reflection of the Sun on the water
[Clark, September 20, 1806] Saturday 20th Septr. 1806 as three of the party was unabled to row from the State of their eyes we found it necessary to leave one of our Crafts and divide the men into the other Canoes, we left the two Canoes lashed together which I had made high up the River Rochejhone, those Canoes we Set a drift and a little after day light we Set out and proceeded on very well. The Osage river very low and discharges but a Small quantity of water at this time for so large a river. at meridian we passed the enterance of the Gasconnade river below which we met a perogue with 5 french men bound to the Osarge Gd. village. the party being extreemly anxious to get down ply their ores very well, we Saw Some cows on the bank which was a joyfull Sight to the party and Caused a Shout to be raised for joy at _ P M we Came in Sight of the little french Village called Charriton the men raised a Shout and Sprung upon their ores and we soon landed opposit to the Village. our party requested to be permited to fire off their Guns which was alowed & they discharged 3 rounds with a harty Cheer, which was returned from five tradeing boats which lay opposit the village. we landed and were very politely received by two young Scotch men from Canada one in the employ of Mr. Aird a Mr. _ and the other Mr. Reed, two other boats the property of Mr. Lacomb & Mr. _ all of those boats were bound to the Osage and Ottoes. those two young Scotch gentlemen furnished us with Beef flower and Some pork for our men, and gave us a very agreeable supper. as it was like to rain we accepted of a bed in one of their tents. we purchased of a Citizen two gallons of Whiskey for our party for which we were obliged to give Eight dollars in Cash, an imposition on the part of the Citizen. every person, both French and americans Seem to express great pleasure at our return, and acknowledged them selves much astonished in Seeing us return. they informed us that we were Supposed to have been lost long Since, and were entirely given out by every person &c.
Those boats are from Canada in the batteaux form and wide in perpotion to their length. their length about 30 feet and the width 8 feet & pointed bow & Stern, flat bottom and rowing Six ores only the Skeneckeity form. those Bottoms are prepared for the navigation of this river, I beleive them to be the best Calculated for the navigation of this river of any which I have Seen. they are wide and flat not Subject to the dangers of the roleing Sands, which larger boats are on this river. the American inhabitants express great disgust for the govermt of this Teritory. from what I can lern it arises from a disapmt. of getting all the Spanish Grants Confirmed-. Came 68 ms. to day.
[Clark, September 21, 1806] Sunday 21st Septr. 1806 rose early this morning Colected our men Several of them had axcepted of the invitation of the Citizens and visited their families. at half after 7 A. M we Set out. passed 12 canoes of Kickapoos assending on a hunting expedition. Saw Several persons also Stock of different kind on the bank which reviv'd the party very much. at 3 P M we met two large boats assending. at 4 P M we arived in Sight of St. Charles, the party rejoiced at the Sight of this hospital village plyed thear ores with great dexterity and we Soon arived opposit the Town, this day being Sunday we observed a number of Gentlemen and ladies walking on the bank, we Saluted the Village by three rounds from our blunderbuts and the Small arms of the party, and landed near the lower part of the town. we were met by great numbers of the inhabitants, we found them excessively polite. we received invitations from Several of those Gentlemen a Mr. Proulx, Taboe, Decett, Tice Dejonah & Quarie and several who were pressing on us to go to their houses, we could only visit Mr. Proulx and Mr. Deucett in the course of the evening. Mr. Querie under took to Supply our party with provisions &c. the inhabitants of this village appear much delighted at our return and seem to vie with each other in their politeness to us all. we Came only 48 miles today. the banks of the river thinly Settled &c.
[Clark, September 22, 1806] Monday 22nd of Sept. 1806 This morning being very wet and the rain Still Continueing hard, and our party being all Sheltered in the houses of those hospitable people, we did not think proper to proceed on untill after the rain was over, and continued at the house of Mr. Proulx. I took this oppertunity of writeing to my friends in Kentucky &c. at 10 A M. it seased raining and we Colected our party and Set out and proceeded on down to the Contonemt. at Coldwater Creek about 3 miles up the Missouri on it's Southern banks, at this place we found Colo. Hunt & a Lieut Peters & one Company of Artillerists we were kindly received by the Gentlemen of this place. Mrs. Wilkinson the Lady of the Govr. & Genl. we wer Sorry to find in delicate health.
we were honored with a Salute of _ Guns and a harty welcom at this place there is a publick Store kept in which I am informed the U. S have 60000$ worth of indian Goods
[Clark, September 23, 1806] Thursday 23rd of Septr. 1806 we rose early took the Chief to the publick store & furnished him with Some clothes &c. took an early breckfast with Colo. Hunt and Set out decended to the Mississippi and down that river to St. Louis at which place we arived about 12 oClock. we Suffered the party to fire off their pieces as a Salute to the Town. we were met by all the village and received a harty welcom from it's inhabitants &. here I found my old acquaintance Majr. W. Christy who had Settled in this town in a public line as a Tavern Keeper. he furnished us with Store rooms for our baggage and we accepted of the invitation of Mr. Peter Choteau and took a room in his house we payed a friendly visit to Mr August Chotau and Some of our old friends this evening. as the post had departed from St. Louis Capt Lewis wrote a note to Mr. Hay in Kahoka to detain the post at that place untill 12 tomorrow which was reather later than his usial time of leaveing it
[Clark, September 24, 1806] Wednesday 24th of September 1806 I sleped but little last night however we rose early and Commencd wrighting our letters Capt. Lewis wrote one to the presidend and I wrote Govr. Harrison & my friends in Kentucky and Sent of George Drewyer with those letters to Kohoka & delivered them to Mr. Hays &. we dined with Mr. Chotoux to day, and after dinner went to a Store and purchased Some Clothes, which we gave to a Tayler and derected to be made. Capt Lewis in opening his trunk found all his papers wet, and Some Seeds spoiled
[Clark, September 25, 1806] Thursday 25th of Septr. 1806 had all of our Skins &c. Suned and Stored away in a Storeroom of Mr. Caddy Choteau. payed Some visits of form, to the gentlemen of St. Louis. in the evening a dinner & Ball
[Clark, September 26, 1806] Friday 26th of September 1806 a fine morning we commenced wrighting &c.
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