The life of the place, which chiefly is bound up in the consideration of where to eat the three simple meals allowed, is curious. In the morning, after the disagreeable necessity of drinking three or more glassfuls of the hot water, every man and every lady spends a half hour deciding where to breakfast and what kind of roll and what kind of ham they shall eat. The bakers' shops are crowded by people picking out the special rusk or special roll they prefer, and these are carried off in little pink bags. Two slices of ham are next bought from one of the shops where men in white clothes slice all day long at the lean Prague ham or the fatter Westphalian. No man is really a judge of ham until he has argued for a quarter of an hour every morning outside the shop in the Carlsbad High Street as to what breed of pig gives the most appetising slice. Bag in hand, ham in pocket, the man undergoing a cure walks to the Elephant in the Alte Wiese, or to one of the little restaurants which stud the valley and the hillsides, delightful little buildings with great glass shelters for rainy days and lawns and flower-beds and creepers, where neat waitresses in black, with their Christian names in white metal worn as a brooch, or great numbers pinned to their shoulders, receive you with laughing welcome, set a red-clothed table for you, and bring you the hot milk and boiled eggs which complete your repast. Be careful of which waitress you smile at on your first day, for she claims you as her especial property for the rest of your stay, and to ask another waitress to bring your eggs would be the deepest treason.

Dinner is a mid-day meal, and as you are not tied down to any particular hotel for your meals because you happen to be staying in it, the custom is to dine where your fancy pleases you. There is Pupp's with its verandah and its little grove of Noah's ark trees, patronised by all nations, and the Golden Shield and Anger's, and Wirchaupt's in the Alte Wiese, which since I have known Carlsbad has grown from a ham shop into a very smart little restaurant handsomely decorated. Wirchaupt's is small enough still for its patrons to have individual attention paid them, and if you are an habitue you will be told as you go in if anything especially good has been bought at market that morning, and little hints are given you as to the composition of your meal. Bohemian partridges and the trout and Zander from the Tepl and other mountain streams are the two great "stand-bys" of the man at Carlsbad who likes good food; but the big fowls which come, I fancy, from Styria, are excellent birds; the venison, the hares, the mutton, and the ever-present ham are all capital. The wines of the country are excellent. The cheapest form of the local wine is served in little caraffes, but here, as in most other places, it is wise to pay the extra shilling and drink the bottled wine. Besides the wine of the province there are obtainable the usual Austrian wines, and the Hungarian Erlauer and Offner and Carlowitz.

I have halted in the Alte Wiese to descant on the usual dinner of Carlsbad, which, ordered a la carte, never costs more than a few shillings. Up on the hill at the Bristol, from the terrace of which there is a fine view over the valley to the Keilberg, and at the Savoy Westend, where some Egyptian servants imported by Nuncovitch from the land of the Pharoahs wait upon you, and which has a great pavilion as its open-air dining-hall, you are likely to find most of the people, English and American, whose movements are recorded in the society papers, taking their mid-day meal. The American millionaire at Carlsbad, however, fares just as simply and just as cheaply as does any half-pay captain, for Dr. Krauss and Dr. London are no considerers of persons in their dieting.

In the afternoon, about five o'clock, all the world goes to one of the cafes in the valley to listen to a concert and to drink hot milk; and in the evening a meal, as simple as dinner has been, is eaten. This is the hour to see Pupp's at its best. In the little grove of trees before the house, where the big band-stand is, there is an array of tables, each with its lamp upon it. In the outside verandah of the great restaurant there are more tables, and inside the glazed verandah and in two long rooms, each rising a step above the other, are a host of people supping. The scene is like some great effect at a theatre, and I know nowhere where one can find any restaurant shining with light as Pupp's does on a summer night. The restaurant in the Stadtpark is always crowded when the band plays there, but the attendance is very hurried and casual, and contrasts badly with Pupp's and the other first-class restaurants. At the two Variety Theatres in the lower town one can, by booking a table in advance, sup fairly comfortably, and listen while one sups to a very good variety entertainment.

At Gieshuebl, where Herr Mattoni makes a fortune by bottling the spring water, and which is little more than an hour's drive from Carlsbad, there is an excellent restaurant where the fare is the same as that found in Carlsbad.

Marienbad

All that I have written of Carlsbad, concerning its food and drink, applies to Marienbad. There is the same freedom as to dining-places, and on a sunny day a man will take his meal in one of the creeper-grown bowers which are erected on the edge of the park by the hotels which face it, or at the Kursaal garden. On a dull day he will dine at Klinger's, the house which has a special celebrity, but which, with its rather stuffy rooms and its much ornamented plate-glass windows, which never seem to open quite wide enough, is pleasanter on a cool day than a hot one; or at the New York, which has its rooms ornamented after the style the Parisians call "the New Art."

There are several good restaurants in the environs of Marienbad, at the Waldmuehle and elsewhere, and the Egerlaender Cafe is well worth a visit. It is a large cafe, with the usual grove before it, built on a commanding hill. The special characteristics of the place are that the rooms and the great hall are built and furnished after the fashion of Egerland, the most picturesque style that Austria boasts of. The girls who wait are all in the handsome Egerland costume, and the effect is very pretty. There is a restaurant at Egerland, and the proprietor, when I was at Marienbad in 1901, talked of adding sleeping apartments to the establishment and of making it a hotel as well as a restaurant and cafe.

Prague

The expedition to Prague generally forms part of a stay at Carlsbad or Marienbad. My personal experience, gained from two visits, is that if one stays either at the Saxe or the Blauer Stern, it is wiser to take one's meals in the restaurants of the hotels than to go further afield and fare worse. One traverses the hop-fields of Pilsen during the journey from Carlsbad, and an amateur of beer should find Prague a paradise second only to Munich.

Bad Gastein

There are several more or less pretentious hotels in Gastein, but perhaps the most reliable for feeding purposes is the Badeschloss; it is rather old-fashioned, but good of its kind. It was formerly the palace of the Cardinal Bishops. The hot-water springs, discovered in A.D. 680, have their source close to the hotel.

Budapesth

The most distinctive feature of Hungarian cookery is the use of paprika, the national pepper. A Goulache, as it is usually written on menus, or Gulyas as the Hungarians call it, is a ragout in which the pepper plays an important part. The Paprikahuhn is a chicken stewed or baked with the pepper, which is very pleasant tasting. Pork served with a sharp-tasting puree in which cranberries play a role, and other combinations of meat and fruit, brought together very much as we Britons take red current jelly with hare and mutton, are all part of the national cookery. The entrails of animals are used to make some of the dishes; pork, from the innocent sucking pig to the great wild boar, veal, pickled or fresh, and calves lungs in vinegar are all treated as national dishes.

The wines of the country are well known to all Anglo-Saxons for some of them, the red wines, Erlauer, Ofner, and Carlovicz, are exported in great quantities. The white wines, Ruster, Schomlayer, Szegszarder, and others are equally drinkable, while Tokay is of course a king amongst wines.

Of restaurants in Budapesth there are but few to be recommended to the wanderer. Both the Ungaria and the Koningen von England have restaurants where one can order a dinner which is expensive however simple it may be, and where one may listen to one of those gipsy bands which are now to be found in most of the London restaurants and in some of the Parisian ones. The best restaurant not attached to an hotel is Palkowitch's, the National Casino, which is the "smart" restaurant of the town. A Hungarian gentleman, wishing to give a friend a good dinner, takes him to the Casino Club, and this is the style of meal and wines that he will get. I am not responsible for the spelling of the menu, which is that of the club steward:—

Somtoi. Gulzas Clair. Eteville 1868. Fogas de Balaton a la Jean Bart. Chateau Margaux Cuissot de Porc frais. 1875. Choucroute farcie. Moet 1884. Cailles roties sur Canape Salade. Tokay 1846. Artichauts frais. Sauce Bordelaise. Silvorium 1796. Turos Lepeny. Baracrkpalinka 1860.

There is a fairly good restaurant near the landing-place on the Margarethen Insel.

N.N.-D.



CHAPTER XII

ROUMANIA

The dishes of the country—The restaurants of Bucarest.

In Roumania you must never be astonished at the items set down in the bill of fare, and if "bear" happens to be one try it, for bruin does not make at all bad eating. The list of game is generally surprisingly large, and one learns in Roumania the difference there is in the venison which comes from the different breeds of deer. Caviar, being the produce of the country, is a splendid dish, and you are always asked which of the three varieties, easily distinguishable by their variety of colour, you will take. A caviar salade is a dish very frequently served. The following are some of the dishes of the country:—Ciulama, chicken with a sauce in which flour and butter are used; Scordolea, in which crawfish, garlic, minced nuts, and oil all play a part; Baclava, a cake of almonds served with sirop of roses. These three dishes, though now Roumanian, were originally introduced from Turkey. Ardei Ungelute is a dish of green pepper, meat, and rice; Sarmalute are vine leaves filled with meat and served with a preparation of milk; Militei is minced beef fried on a grill in the shape of a sausage. Cheslas and Mamaliguzza, the food of the peasant, much resemble the Italian Polenta and are eaten with cold milk. Ghiveci, a ragout with all kinds of vegetables mixed in it, is a great dish of the country.

Bucarest

When in Bucarest, as it should be spelt, go straight to Capsa's in the Calea Victorici, a first-rate restaurant. It is perhaps not quite equal to the best of the London and Paris establishments, but the cooking is really good, and certainly superior to anything you can find in Vienna. The French chef will provide you with a recherche dinner ordered a la carte. Fresh caviar is in perfection there, as also the sterlet or young sturgeon; the latter is caught in the Danube, and is a most dainty and much prized fish. The prices are fairly high,—about 2 francs 50 centimes for an ordinary plat. The wines are all rather expensive, that of the country being perhaps best left alone, although the Dragasani is a wine which tastes strangely at first, but to which one becomes used. A liqueur tasting of carraway seeds is pleasant, but that made from the wild plum is not to be rashly ventured upon.

This is the menu of a little dinner for two eaten at Capsa's:—

Caviar. Ciorba de Poulet. Turbot a la Grec. Mousaka aux Courzes. Gateaux.

And this a breakfast at the same establishment:—

Glachi de Carpe (froid). Oeufs Polenta. Pilau. Aubergines aux Tomates.

There is also a confectioner's shop kept by Capsa, who was for some considerable time at Boissier's in Paris, afterwards returning to Bucarest and opening this establishment. It is as good as that of any Parisian confiseur, with the result that all Bucarest are his customers, and his business is an extremely lucrative one.

A cheap dinner can be obtained, a la carte, at the Hotel Continental in the Calea Victorici, opposite the Theatre Nationale.

Jordachi's in the Strada Coatch, and Enesco's in the Strada Sfantu Tonica, also deserve mention; they are cheap, second-rate restaurants, but you get there the dishes of the country. In both these places a capital band of Tziganes play the music of the country. Enesco's is, perhaps, the better of the two. If you require any specialites the waiter will be sure to know what to advise; one dish, called Brochettes de Filet, may be recommended. The waiters at Enesco's and Jordachi's are intelligible in German and Roumanian; at the Continental, and especially at Capsa's, they are mostly French.

If you pay a call in Bucarest you will be offered Dolceazza, a kind of sweetmeat, and a glass of water.



CHAPTER XIII

SWEDEN. NORWAY. DENMARK

Stockholm restaurants—Malmoe—Storvik—Gothenburg—Christiana— Copenhagen—Elsinore.

Stockholm

Of all the restaurants in the capital of Sweden the Hasselbacken, in the Royal Djurgarten Park, is the most interesting to visit should it be open, which it is from the beginning of March till the end of September. During the early part of the season Tziganes play in one of the small rooms, whereas in summer a somewhat noisy orchestra plays in the garden. The price of dinner, a prix fixe, is 3 kronor 50 oere; this includes soup, fish, meat, releve (generally a Swedish guinea-fowl called hjaerpe) and ice. Wine and coffee are of course extra.

The Hasselbacken is often used for the giving of banquets of ceremony, but the dinner at 3 kr. 50 oere is more likely to interest the stranger within the gates than the more extensive feasts, so I give a typical menu of this very reasonably priced repast:—

Puree a la Reine. Saumon fume aux Epinards. Selle de Mouton aux Legumes. Gelinottes roties. Salade. Soufflee au Citron.

Quite one of the best restaurants is in the Hotel Continental opposite the Railway Station. The food here is excellent, tornedos (1 kr. 50 oere) and naesselkalsoppa, an excellent soup made from a sort of young nettle, being specialities. The prices are slightly cheaper than those of the Hasselbacken.

Operakaellaren is a very good restaurant and one of the most popular. They serve here a dejeuner at 1 kr. 50 oere consisting of an excellent dish of eggs (a speciality of the place) and meat and cheese or so-called "sweet" (generally a very unwholesome stale cake with cream). The table-d'hote dinners are excellent, one being at 3 kr. 50 oere and the other at 2 kr. 50 oere; the first consisting of soup (thick soups being a speciality of the place), fish, entree, meat, and releve (generally hjaerpe), with a compote of Swedish berries called lingon (a sort of cranberry) and an indifferent sweet or ice. Here, as in most Swedish eating-places, objection is taken to coffee being served in the restaurants, people being requested to take it in the cafe, which is generally the next room. Supper is served at the Operakaellaren, and the restaurant is crowded for this meal. It costs 2 kronor and consists of a smoergasbord or copious hors-d'oeuvre, an entree, and meat.

The Grand Hotel is fairly popular, owing to the smartness of the dining-room and the "swagger" way in which meals are served. The food is not as good as the decorations. The lunch costs 2 kr. 50 oere and the dinner 3 kr. 50 oere.

The Hotel Rydberg is also most popular, and the food is good. A great feature is made here, as everywhere, of the smoergasbord (literally "bread and butter") table, which has a room to itself and on which are a score or more of dishes, there being some wonderful combinations of smoked eels and other fish and eggs amongst them. There are from five to thirty of these dishes, all delicate and appetising. The guests eat them standing. In the same room is a huge plated spirit-stand containing a number of different spirits, white brandy called "Branvin," and other drinks resembling Vodka. The crayfish, kraftor, a little larger than the French ones, excellent in flavour and served in a terrine, the bisque soup, caviar served, as of course it should be, on a bed of ice are good at the Rydberg and the cook manages to make even a ptarmigan toothsome. It is a favourite place for people to sup at after the theatre. The table-d'hote dinner costs 3 kr. 50 oere and the lunch 2 kr. 50 oere. Caloric punch is a favourite drink here, as elsewhere in Sweden, and two men think nothing of drinking a bottle between them after dinner or supper.

The Cafe du Nord is very crowded and very popular, although more bourgeois than the others. The food is good, meals being served mostly a la carte. A good filet de boeuf costs about 90 oere. The business men who mostly patronise this cafe dine from 3 to 4 P.M. Many people sup there in the evening. There are some excellently painted pictures in black and gold, rather daring and French in subject, on the walls.

There are also the Cafe Anglais (fairly good) and the Hamburger Boers. The Berns' Salonger, the Blanch Cafe and Stroemparterren are cafes where coffee, punch, liqueurs, and sandwiches may be had. The former is the only one open in summer and winter, the two latter being opened on 1st May without regard to the temperature, and closed on 30th September.

Malmoe

At Malmoe, which is the landing place from Kiel, there is a good dinner or lunch obtainable at the big hotel with twin turrets which faces the statue to Gustavus Adolphus.

Storvik

At Storvik, a station on the Storlieu line, there is a restaurant which is celebrated throughout Sweden. You are charged 2 kronor, which is the price of a meal at all railway refreshment rooms, and help yourself at a big central table, crayfish soup, fish, meat, poultry, game, and sweets all being included in the meal, and a glass of light beer.

Gothenburg

The restaurant of the Haglund is a good one, and I give one of the menus of its dinner at 3 kronor:—

SOPPA.

Potage a la Parmentier.

FISK.

Saumon grillee a la maitre d'hotel.

KOeTTRAeTT.

Langue de Boeuf Garni. Sauce aux Olives, ou Fricandeau de veau aux pois.

STEK.

Poulet a la Printanier. Compotes.

EFTERRAeTT.

Bavaroise hollandaise ou Framboises.

National Dishes

There are very few Swedish national dishes, milk, cream, butter, and fish being, however, excellent. The Smoergasbord is the great institution of the country. Plaettar, or Swedish pancakes, are also good.

Norway

Norway is by no means a happy hunting ground for the gourmet. Salmon, halibut, and ptarmigan are the usual luxuries, and they pall on the palate after a time. The Hotel Victoria at Christiana is well spoken of in the matter of cooking, and the Brittania at Throndhjem is said to cater well considering the latitude it is situated in.

Denmark

From the gourmet's point of view there is little to write as to the Copenhagen restaurants. That of the Hotel d'Angleterre is good, and a good word can also be said for the cooking at the Hotel Phoenix.

The Tivoli Gardens are the summer resort of Copenhagen, and all classes patronise them, rich and poor both being catered for. They are a magnified Earl's Court, with the Queen's Hall and the booths from a French fair added. There are restaurants of all kinds at the Tivoli, some being very popular and surprisingly cheap. One of these restaurants, the Danish one, is of interest and gives a very good national meal for 3 kronor.

The Cafe National is an excellent place at which to sup, cold poached eggs in aspic being one of the delicacies of the house.

All the world makes expeditions to Elsinore, or as the Danes, regardless of Shakespeare, call it, Helingsoer. There in the Marienlyst you may see Hamlet's grave, which is so excellently built up that one would believe it to be really the burial place of a Viking, and you can lunch at the Kursaal, whence there is a delightful view across the Sound to Sweden. There is a second park at Elsinore where Ophelia's pool is shown.

The meals in Denmark are preceded by a feast of little delicacies, "sandwiches with the roof off" as they have been aptly described, which both men and ladies eat as they stand and chat before going into lunch or dinner, as is the custom in Sweden and Russia also.

N.N.-D.



CHAPTER XIV

RUSSIA

Food of the country—Restaurants in Moscow—The dining places of St. Petersburg—Odessa—Warsaw.

Russian Dishes

The Russians are a nation of gourmands, for the Zakouska, the potatoes and celery, spiced eels, stuffed crayfish, chillies stuffed with potato, olives, minced red cabbage, smoked goose-flesh, smoked salmon, smoked sturgeon, raw herring, pickled mushrooms, radishes, caviar, and a score of other "appetisers," and the petits pates, the Rastegai (tiny pies of the lightest paste with a complicated fish stuffing and a little fresh caviar in the openings at the top), the Tartelettes St-Hubert, any other little pasties of fish and flesh eaten with the soup, could only be consumed by vigorous eaters. Soups are the contribution of Russia to the cuisine of the world, and the moujik, when he first stirred some sour cream into his cabbage broth, little thought that from his raw idea the majestic Bortch would come into existence. The two cold soups of which salt cucumber juice forms the foundation are curious. There are other admirable soups of Russian invention, one, Selianka, a fish soup made from the sterlet and sturgeon, being much liked when a taste for it has been acquired. The sturgeon of course comes into the menu of many Russian dinners, and also the sterlet, cooked in white wine and served with shrimp sauce. There is a fish pie of successive layers of rice, eggs, and fish, which is one of the native dishes and is much like Kedgeree. Boiled Moscow sucking pig, which in its short but happy life has tasted naught but cream, boiled and served with horse-radish sauce and sour cream is a dish for good angels, and roast mutton stuffed with buckwheat is not to be despised. Srazis are little rolled strips of mutton with forced meat inside, fried in butter. Moscow is especially celebrated for its cutlets of all kinds, chicken garnished with mushrooms and cream, and veal in especial. Nesselrode Pudding is frequently found on Russian menus. Some of the peasant soups, one for instance in which all the scraps of the kitchen are boiled with any grain and fruit which may be handy, are dreadful decoctions. Russia has its native wines, those of the Caucasus being very good imitations of French wine. There is a champagne of the Don which often finds its way into bottles with French labels on them. Polynnaia, a wormwood whisky, is an excellent digestive.

I now let A.B. have his say.

Moscow

There are three principal restaurants in Moscow—the Bolskoi Moscovski, the Ermitage, and the Slaviansky Bazaar; of these the Ermitage and the Bolskoi are probably the best for dinner.

The Ermitage in Trubnaia Plastchad has a great reputation in Moscow for its cuisine, and is the favourite restaurant and resort of the upper class; it has an imposing general luncheon and dining-hall, also separate saloons for private dinner-parties. Most of the official banquets are held here.

The cost of a luncheon, with choice of any two dishes from a list of fifteen or twenty, is 1 rouble.

Dinners can be had for—

1 rouble 25 kopeks (6 courses) or 2 roubles 25 " (8 courses)

The restaurants are generally open till about 2 A.M.

The numerous waiters are dressed in white on week days, on Sundays and feast days in coloured silk Tartar dresses. A large orchestrion plays from time to time during meals.

This restaurant has three head chefs and thirty-eight chefs, besides patissiers and all the smaller fry of the kitchen. The store-rooms for game, etc., form one of the sights of Moscow, and should be seen. There is a service of Sevres china, which is very beautiful, and on which dinners are served on very special occasions. An extra charge, and a high one, is made for the use of this.

The Ermitage is unlike any other restaurant in the world in many respects. There is an admirable cellar of wines, and it is not a place for a man to give a big dinner at unless he is prepared to encounter a very big bill.

In Russia there is, as you will see by the subjoined menu of a typical Ermitage dinner, a sort of intermediate course between the soup and the fish called petits pates, which rather takes the place of an entree, and although counted as nothing when it is preceded by the Sakouska (i.e. a preliminary "stand up" snack which waylays you at a separate buffet as you walk into dinner and consists of all sorts of appetissants such as caviar, cunningly smoked fish, olives, etc., with Kuemmel and other liqueurs as an accompaniment) the smallest dinner resolves itself into a formidable repast that perhaps only a Russian would be capable of doing full justice to.

ERMITAGE RESTAURANT.

MENU.

Consomme Bariatinsky. Petits Pates. Timbale Napolitaine. Vol-au-vent Rossini. Friands a la Reine. Tartelettes St-Hubert. Esturgeon en Vin de Champagne. Selle de Mouton d'Ecosse Nesselrode. Punch Imperial. Becasses. Cailles. Salade et Concombres Sales. Chouxfleurs. Sauce Polonaise. Bombe en Surprise. Dessert.

The Bolskoi Moscovski is opposite the town hall and has a spacious and fine central dining-hall. Here also the waiters are dressed in white, and an orchestrion discourses music during meal times. Its prices are practically the same as at the Ermitage.

Testoff's is another good restaurant where purely Russian dishes are served; it is therefore interesting and worth a visit, and gives a very good insight as to the national cuisine.

These restaurants are much frequented at lunch time, especially in summer, when families are out in Datchas or villas in the environs of Moscow, and the men have to lunch in town. In winter they are full until late in the evening.

One of the best lunch-places in Moscow is the Slaviansky Bazaar in Nikolski Street, Kitaigorod, situated in the city or business centre of Moscow. It is a mid-day resort of the business men and travellers staying at the hotel, but is more or less deserted afterwards. It has a spacious and lofty restaurant hall and takes in the Times and English illustrated papers. It was formerly noted for its regular English table for members of the colony, who, however, subsequently deserted it to some extent for the three main restaurants.

Here luncheons can be had with excellent choice a la carte. Dinners cost from 1 rouble 25 kopeks.

In addition to these regular restaurants there are several summer garden resorts of a gayer character with cafes, theatres, open-air stages, and various cafe-chantant amusements. These resorts are at their gayest in the early hours of the morning, till 4 A.M., when the company becomes somewhat varied, and as the guide-books sagely remark, "Gentlemen had better leave their ladies at the hotel."

These places are prettily laid out, and in the afternoon and early part of the evening serve to pass a pleasant hour or two in the summer. Dress clothes are not generally worn when visiting them.

In the town the two best ones are the Aquarium and the Ermitage Sad (Sad is Russian for garden), not the same as the Ermitage Restaurant above mentioned. Admission to gardens, 50 kopeks.

The Yar and the Strelna are favourite restaurant late-evening resorts near the Petrovski Park, a short drive out. The Yar is open in the summer and winter, but the Strelna in the winter only.

St. Petersburg

St. Petersburg has nominally three first-class restaurants, viz., the Bear (L'Ours) on the Bolschaya Kononschaya; the Restaurant de Paris, known as Cubat's, on the Bolschaya Marskaya; and Donon's on the Moika Canal. All of them are good. Donon's has an excellent cellar and supplies a good dinner if ordered in advance. The price of the set meals is very reasonable, about 2 roubles or 4s. 4d. per head; but the profits are made on the wines, which are ridiculously expensive (owing to the enormous duties). For instance, a bottle of vin ordinaire costs 4 roubles 50 kopeks, or 9s. 8d., and no bottle of dry champagne can be had for less than 10 roubles or 21s. 8d.; a whisky and soda is charged 1 rouble 50 kopeks, and in some places 2 roubles; a half bottle of wine is always charged 50 kopeks more than the actual half bottle price.

The Hotel de France has a luncheon at 75 kopeks, or 1s. 6d., which is very popular with the business community of St. Petersburg, and it is crowded from 12.30 to 2 o'clock. The food is not high class but of a good bourgeois description, and the place is kept by a Belgian named Renault. It is one of the best hotels in St. Petersburg, and its situation is suited to the purpose; but, as a matter of fact, there is absolutely no first-class hotel either in St. Petersburg or Moscow, and sanitation is a factor that has not yet penetrated into the Russian intellect. A man who eats oysters in Russia, eats his own damnation, and at a high price in both senses; they are both costly and poisonous in a town where typhoid is easily contracted.

In the summer there are two good restaurants on the islands, a few miles from St. Petersburg, a sort of Richmond to St. Petersburg,—Felicien's, a dependence of Cubat's; and Ernest's, a branch of the Cafe de l'Ours, and managed by a brother of the proprietor. Both these have an excellent cuisine and cellar, but the charges, especially at Felicien's, are fairly extravagant. Bands of music and pretty gardens are features of these restaurants, and Felicien's has a terrace on the river opposite the Emperor's summer palace on the Island of Iliargin. They are both practically closed during the winter, excepting by arrangement or when sleighing parties make a rendezvous there.

There is also a German restaurant, Lemner's, at No. 18 Newsky Prospect, where a good, cheap German repast can be procured for 1 rouble and drink therewith, Russian pilsener or Munich beer.

Odessa

At the great port on the Black Sea the restaurant of the Hotel de Londres Yastchouk is one of the best in Russia. Yastchouk was the name of its late proprietor, who died in 1902, and was a real lover of good cookery, enjoying nothing more than to serve an exquisite meal to a real connoisseur. When any gourmet came to his restaurant, he would ask him whether he came from the north or the south. If from the north, he would suggest a real southern meal, with Rougets a la Grec and the delicious Agneau de lait, unobtainable in St. Petersburg, and a ragout of aubergines and tomatoes. If from the south, he would recommend a good Bortch with petits pates, or a slice of Koulebiaka, a great pot-pie full of all kinds of good things, or some milk-white sucking-pig covered with cream and horse-radish. Yastchouk has joined the majority, but his restaurant is carried on in the same spirit as when he was alive.

Warsaw

Bruehl's used to be the one good restaurant in the capital of Poland, but the restaurant of the Bristol, new, clean, smart, and cheap, with a French maitre-d'hotel in command, is commended and recommended. When the Bristol restaurant at night has all its electric lights in full glow it looks like the magic cave into which Aladdin penetrated.



CHAPTER XV

TURKEY

Turkish dishes—Constantinople restaurants.

Constantinople

One of the hotels in the restaurant at which very good food is obtainable is the Pera Palace; but the hundreds of dogs that are allowed to infest the city for scavenging purposes, and who disgracefully neglect their business in order to bark and howl dismally all night, would ruin the best hotel in creation. Therefore, if in the summer, I should advise any man to go to the Summer Palace Hotel at Therapia, a few miles from the city, on the Bosphorus, which is perfectly delightful, and to run into Constantinople by river steamer to visit the mosques, bazaars, etc.—but this by the way.

The best restaurant in Constantinople is Tokatlian's, in the Rue de Pera; it is very good but expensive, for all wines, spirits, etc., coming into Turkey have to pay a heavy duty. There is a strong native wine of a sauterne character made in Turkey, also Duzico, a sort of Kuemmel liqueur, not bad, and Mastic, another chasse, especially nasty. You can obtain Turkish dishes at Tokatlian's. The Turkish kahabs and pilaffs of chicken are good, but their appearance is not appetising and they are too satisfying. A little rice and beef, rather aromatic in taste, is wrapped round with a thin vine leaf, in balls the size of a walnut, and eaten either hot or cold. This is called Yalandji Dolmas. Yaourt or Lait Caille is a milk curd, rather like what is called Dicke Milch in Germany. Aubergines are eaten in every form; one method of cooking them, and that one not easily forgotten, is to smother a cold aubergine in onion, garlic, salt, and oil; this is named Ymam Bayldi. Keinfte are small meatballs tasting strongly of onions. Plaki fish, eaten cold; Picti fish in aspic; small octopi stewed in oil; Moussaka, vegetable marrows sliced, with chopped meat between the slices and baked; Yachni, meat stewed with celery and other vegetables; Kebap, "kabobs" with a bay-leaf between each little bit of meat; Kastanato, roasted chestnuts stewed in honey, and quinces treated in the same manner; vermicelli stewed in honey; and preserves of rose leaves, orange flowers, and jessamine, all are to be found in the Turkish cuisine. The Roti Kouzoum is lamb impaled whole on a spit like a sucking-pig, which it rather resembles in size, being very small. It is well over-roasted and sent up whole. I am informed on the best authority that when a host wishes to do you honour he tears pieces off it with his fingers and places them before you, and you have to devour them in the same manner.

When I was in Turkey last year I had the misfortune not to be introduced to the privacy of a Turkish family gathering, so I have to confess that I have not yet accomplished this feat myself.

There is a very good fish when in season in the summer, called espadon, or sword-fish, but the butcher's meat, unless you have good teeth, is not often eatable. The natives are mostly vegetarians; beans, small cucumbers, rice and what cheap fruits may be in season are their principal food; water, about which they are most particular, is the principal beverage of all Turks from the highest to the lowest class.

I herewith give a typical Turkish dinner:—

Duzico. Hors-d'oeuvre. Yalandji Dolmas.

POTAGE.

Creme d'Orge.

POISSON.

Espadon. Sce. Anchois.

ENTREE.

Boughou Kebabs. Carni Yanik.

ROTI.

Kouzoum.

LEGUMES.

Bahmieh a l'Orientale. Ymam Bayldi.

ENTREMETS.

Yaourt et Fruits.

The charges in Turkey on the whole are moderate, but the Turkish coinage is somewhat confusing, and even a Scotch Jew, who had been brought up in New York, would find it a matter of difficulty to hold his own with the unspeakable Turk when it came to a question of small change.

Tokatlian has a branch establishment of a bourgeois description for business people just outside the big bazaar at Stamboul, the Restaurant Grand Bazaar, where there are plenty of good dishes, besides native experiments, which are worth trying. Here the charges are very moderate.

The food at the Royal and Bellevue Hotels and Dimitri's is also good, and for supper you can go to Yani's, which is open practically all night, but perhaps not so eminently respectable as the other restaurants I have mentioned.

A.B.



CHAPTER XVI

GREECE

Grecian Dishes—Athens.

No one lives better than a well-to-do Greek outside his own country, and when he is in Greece his cook manages to do a great deal with comparatively slight material. A Greek cook can make a skewered pigeon quite palatable, and the number of ways he has of cooking quails, from the simple method of roasting them cased in bay leaves to all kinds of mysterious bakings after they have been soused in oil, are innumerable. There are pillaus without number in the Greek cuisine, chiefly of lamb, and it is safe to take for granted that anything a la Grec is likely to be something savoury, with a good deal of oil, a suspicion of onion, a flavour of parsley, and a good deal of rice with it. These, however, are some of the most distinctive dishes:—Coucouretzi, the entrails and liver of lamb, roasted on a spit; Bligouri, wheat coarsely ground, cooked in broth, and eaten with grated cheese; Argokalamara, a paste of flour and yolk of egg fried in butter with honey poured over it. All Greek cooking, as all Turkish is, should be done very slowly over a charcoal fire. A too great use of oil is the besetting sin of the indifferent Greek cook. The egg-plant is treated in half-a-dozen ways by the Greeks, stuffing them with some simple forced meat being the most common.

The food of the peasant is grain, rice, goat when he can get it, a skinny fowl as a great delicacy, milk, and strong cheese. A bunch of grapes and a piece of sour bread forms a feast for him.

The Grecian wines are not unpalatable but very light. They are mostly exported to Vienna, being fortified previous to their departure to enable them to stand the voyage, and again manipulated on their arrival, so that their original characteristics are considerably obliterated.

Athens

My trusted collaborateur A.B. went on a yachting tour in Grecian waters last spring, having a special intention of studying Greek restaurants. He wrote to me as to Athens, and his report was short and to the point: "Outside the hotels there is but one cafe, Solon's, principally used as a political rendezvous. Its attractions are of the most meagre description." A most grave litterateur to whom, as he had been lately travelling in Greece, and as I had not been there for ten years, I applied for supplementary information, applied the adjective "beastly" to all Greek restaurants, and added that the one great crying need of Greece and Athens is an American bar for the sale of cooling drinks in the Parthenon.

N.N.-D.



INDEX

Aachen, 135

Abbaye de Theleme Restaurant, 33

Acqua Litiosa di S. Marco, 171

Agnolotti, 158

Aix-la-Chapelle, 135

Aix-les-Bains, 74

Albergo Giappone, Leghorn, 170

Algeciras, 192

Allemania, Frankfurt, 128

Alster Cafe, Hamburg, 143

Ambassadeurs Restaurant, 27

Ambleteuse, 37

Amsterdam, 109

Anglais, Cafe, 5, 6, 8

Anguille di Comacchio, 166

Antwerp, 83

Ardei Ungelute, 207

Argokalamara, 230

Arles, 73

Arselle alla Marinara, 171

Artichokes, 48, 173

Asparagus, 3

Athens, 231

Aubanel, M., 29

Aubergines, 227

Bacalas, 179

Bacchio e Capretto alla Cacciatora, 174

Bachelier, 65

Baclava, 207

Bad Gastein, 204

Baden, 198

Baden-Baden, 134

Barbue Paillard, 13 Durand, 17 a la Russe, 18

Barcelona, 180

Baron d'agneau Henri IV., 12

Bars, 31

Basle, 153

Bauernschaenke, Berlin, 150

Bauer's Cafe, Berlin, 149

Bayonne Restaurant, 50, 51

Beaufils, 38

Beaulieu, 60

Beauvillier's Cafe, 4

Becasse Flambee, 18 au Fumet, 12

Beer, 103, 117, 120, 121, 128, 129, 138, 196 cellars, 114

Belgium, 79

Belvedere Restaurant, Dresden, 118

Bequet, 42

Berk, 37

Berlin, 144

Bern, 154

Bertrand's Restaurant, 84

Biarritz, 52

Bignon's Cafe, 4

Birds, 3, 82, 98

Biscuit Foyot, 25

Blanche Restaurant, 33

Bligouri, 230

Bobadilla, 190

Boeuf, Cote de, braise Empire, 12

Boeuf a la mode Restaurant, 21

Bologna, 166

Borchard's Restaurant, Berlin, 146

Bordeaux, 50 Cafe de, 50, 51

Borel, 4

Bouillabaisse, 41, 54, 55, 73, 76

Bouillon Riche Restaurant, 27

Bouillons, 34

Boulogne, 36

Bouzoum, Madame, 71

Brandade, 55

Bratwurstgloecklein, 123

Brest, 49

Breton menu, 48

Brill, 2

Bristol Restaurant, Berlin, 145

Broccoli, 174

Broche a Rotir, 42

Bruges, 88

Brun, Hotel (Bologna), 166

Brussels, restaurants at, 93, 103

Bucarest, 208

Budapesth, 204

Buerose Restaurant, Frankfurt, 128

Burdel, M., 8

Burgos, 187

Burgundy, 80, 88, 94, 100, 109

Busecca, 160

Cabois, 38

Cabourg, 43

Cadiz and Jerez, 191

Caen, 44

Caesario, 18

Cafe de Paris, 30 Americain, 30 de la Cascade, 29 de la Paix, 30

Caille a la Souvaroff, 18

Calais, 35

Caldo, 179

Canape Clarence Mackay, 23

Canard Pompeienne, 26 a la Presse, 3, 17

Cancale, 47

Caneton de Rouen au Sang, 18

Caneton Rouennaise, 42

Cannes, 56

Capeletti, 158

Carbonades Flamandes, 81

Cardons, 160

Carlsbad, 199

Carpe a la Gelee, 5

Casimir, 4

Casino, Hotel du, Cherbourg, 46 Municipal, Biarritz, 52

Castagnacci alla Pisana, 169

Caviar, 143, 207, 208, 212

Cellars, 7, 10, 25

Cepes a la Bordelaise, 51

Chabas, M. Paul, 73

Champagne, 99, 100, 116, 148

Champeaux Restaurant, 22

Chapon Fin, 50, 51

Charcutiers, 44

"Charles," 11

Chateau de Madrid, 28 Laroque, 89

Chateaubriand, 22

Cherbourg, 46

Cheslas, 208

Cheval Blanc Restaurant, 43

Chevillard's Restaurant, 28

Choesels a la Bruxelloise, 81

Choux Farcies, 43

Cider, 43, 45

Cinghiale in agro dolce, 174

Ciulama, 207

Claret, 50

Clermont-Ferrand, 78

Club restaurant, 31

Codeghino, 167

Coffee, 93, 136

Cologne, 129

Colon Restaurant, Barcelona, 181

Confit d'Oie, 69

Consomme Fortunato, 15 Baigneuse, 17

Constantinople, 226

Cost of dinners, 8, 14, 17, 29, 34, 39, 40, 48, 65, 80, 84, 88, 89, 229

Cote de Boeuf a la Russe, 107

Cotelette alla Marsigliese, 162 a la Milanese, 162

Cotelettes d'Izard marine, 69

Coucouretzi, 230

Creme de Langoustines, 65 Germiny, 13

Crepes des Gourmets, 15 Suzette, 18

Criterium Restaurant, Antwerp, 84

Croutes au Champignons, 39

D'Hortesio's Cafe, 4

Denmark, 215

Desir, Le, de Roi, 11

Dieppe, 37

Dinard, 47

Diner Francais Restaurant, 34

Dresden, 114, 121

Dressel Restaurant, Berlin, 147

Drouet, Henri, 14

Ducordet, M., 38

Duglere, 2, 8

Durand's Restaurant, 14, 16, 30

Duesseldorf, 128

Echenard, M., 54

Ecrevisses Bordelaises, 39, 76 Regina, 96

Eggs, 48

Elysee Palace Hotel, 18

Ems, 135

Ermitage Restaurant, 219

Estoril, 195

Etaples, 37

Faina, 163

Faisan a la Financiere, 3

Fegatini di pollo, 169

Fegato alla Veneziana, 166

Ferme St-Simeon, 43

Fiesoli, 169

Figs, 163, 169

Filet de Lievre Arnold White, 23 Paillard, 12 Selle Czarine, 12

Filet de Sole, 12 Cardinal, 23 Gibbs, 23 Martin, 184 Mornay, 8 Noel, 21 La Peyrouse, 25

Fishes, 2, 21, 53, 64

Florence, 168

Fonduta, 160

Fowls, 2

Foyot's Restaurant, 11, 22, 25

Francais Restaurant, Nice, 58 Restaurant, 42

France, Hotel de, Cherbourg, 47

Frankfurt-am-Main, 126

Frankfurter Hof, 126

Frascati's Restaurant, 39

"Frederic," 11, 23

Fritto Misto, 158, 171 di Calamaretti, 174 Picatto, 162

Friture du Pays, 53

Gaillon Restaurant, 11, 14

Game, 3, 116, 219

Garbure soup, 69

Garnier, Restaurant, 36

Gazpaco, 179

Geneva, 154, 155

Genoa, 163

German restaurant, 31 cooking, 110

Germiny, Creme, 13

Ghent, 80

Ghiveci, 208

Gianduiotti, 160

Gieshuebl, 202

Gigot de sept heures, 9

Glace Gismonda, 18

Gnocchi di Patele, 174

Gothenburg, 213

Goulache, 204

Graff, M. Paul, 38

Grand Hotel de l'Europe, Spa, 87

Grand Port, 76 Revard, 76

Grand Seize, 5, 7, 8

Greece, 230

Grenada, 191

Grissini, 160

Grives a la Namuroise, 82

Grouse, 83

Gudgeon, 2

Guepet, 4

Guichard, 71, 72

Guillemin, 27

Hague, 105

Hamburg, 138

Hanover, 124

Hardi, Cafe, 4

Hareng Lucas, 22

Hartmann's Restaurant, 197

Hasselbacken Restaurant, 210

Havre, 38

Helder Restaurant, 66, 92

Henrion's Grand Hotel, Aachen, 135

Henri's Restaurant, Gaillon, 14

Heyste, 89

Hochepot Gantois, 81

Hofbrauhaus, Munich, 121

Holland, 105

Homard Cardinal, 12, 197 a l'Americaine, 41, 45, 107 Foyot, 25 chaud a beurre truffe, 148

Homburg, 131

Honfleur, 43

Huitres Titania, 197

Irish stew, 96

Isnard's Restaurant, 56

Italian cookery, 157 restaurants, 31

"Joseph," 11, 23

Julia, Mlle., 49

Julien's Cafe, 30

Justin's Restaurant, Barcelona, 180

Kaiserkeller, Berlin, 150

Kastanato, 227

Kebap, 227

Keinfte, 227

Kempinsky's Restaurant, Berlin, 147

Kiel, 137

Kneist, Dresden, 120

Lafosse's Restaurant, 37

Laiterie, Brussels, 152

Lampreys, 2, 51

La Peyrouse Restaurant, 22, 25

La Rue's Restaurant, 16, 30

Laurent's Restaurant, 26

Ledoyen's Restaurant, 27

L'Etoile, Brussels, 100

Lefebvre, 38

Leghorn, 170

Leipzig, 125

Le Navigateur, 25

Lennertz's Restaurant, Aachen, 136

Liqueurs, 22

Lisbon, 180, 192

Lobsters, 45, 48

London House, Nice, 58

Lucas's Restaurant, 21, 32

Lucerne, 153

Maccheroni, 158

Madrid, 187

Madrid, Restaurant de, 44

Maire's Restaurant, 20, 26, 30

Maison Doree, Barcelona, 184

Maison Grossetete, 14 d'Or Cafe, 4, 6, 8

Malmoe, 213

Mamaliguzza, 208

Marguery's Restaurant, 21

Marienbad, 203

Marivaux Cafe, 11

Marseilles, 54

Martigues, 73

Maxim's Restaurant, 30

Medoc, 96, 97

Meizanne, 163

Mentone, 68

Menus, 7, 9, 13, 15, 17, 19, 28, 48, 53, 58, 59, 63, 64, 66, 67, 80, 87, 97, 107, 108, 132, 140, 141, 144, 146, 148, 156, 164, 181, 182, 183, 185, 188, 192, 193, 206, 208, 211, 214, 220, 228

Milan, 161

Militei, 207

Milk, 28, 37

Minestrone, 53, 158, 161, 163

Monte Carlo, 61

Mortadella, 167

Moscardini, 163

Moscow, 218

Mottez's Restaurant, 81

Moules a la mariniere, 99

Mourier, M., 30

Moussaka, 227

Mozzarelle in carozza, 176

Munich, 121

Mushrooms, 20

Mutton, 47

Naples, 174

Nassauer Hof, Wiesbaden, 133

Naesselkalsoppa, 211

National Hotel, Lucerne, 153

Neues Palais de Saxe, Dresden, 119

Nice, 58

Nimes, 74

Noailles Hotel, Marseilles, 54

Noel Peter's Restaurant, 21

Noisettes de Veau Port Mahon, 15

Normandie, Hotel de, 40

Norway, 214

Notta, 11

Nuremberg, 122 hotels, 124

Odessa, 224

Oeufs Claude Lowther, 23

Omelette Siberienne, 107 Souffles, 136

Oranges a l'Infante, 197

Ortolans en surprise, 13

Ossobuco, 162

Ostend, 89

Oysters, 32, 45, 47, 49, 52, 60, 136, 147 cellars, 142

Paillard's Restaurant, 11, 26, 30

Palast Hotel, Furstenhof, 127 Berlin, 147

Palermo, 177

Palmen Garten, Frankfurt, 127

Panettone, 162

Paprika, 204

Paprikahuhn, 204

Paris and cookery, 1 Cafe de, 4 Plage, 37 Restaurant de, 42

Park Hotel, Duesseldorf, 128

Partridges, 3, 83, 201

Paste asciutte, 158

Pasticcio di Maccheroni, 174

Pasqualina, 163

Pattona alla Pisana, 169

Pau, 71

Pavillion d'Armenonville, 28 Bleu, 34 Henri IV., 34

Peches Flambees, 18

Pepin Restaurant, 44

Pepperoni, 160

Perdreau et Caille Paillard, 13

Perdrix au choux, 3, 107

Perpadelle, 158 col Ragout, 167

Perrier's Restaurant, 41

Peyrafitte, Joseph, 72

Pforte's Restaurant, Hamburg, 138

Phillipe's Cafe, 4, 34

Pisa, 169

Pizzaiola, Steak alla, 176 Pizza alla, 176

Plattaer, 214

Poire Wannamaker, 23 Alaska, 107

Pollo en padella, 174

Polpette a la Milanese, 162

Polpi alla Luciana, 176

Pomme Otero, 12 Georgette, 12 Macaire, 12

Port Bou, 184

Potage Henri IV., 17 Foyot, 25 Germiny, 8 Reine, 18

Potatoes, 48

Poulard Aine, Mont St-Michel, 48

Poularde Maison d'Or, 5 Archiduc, 12 a la Derby, 12 a la Parisienne, 107 Reserve en Cocotte Raviolis, 55 a la Santos Dumont, 65 Wladimir, 12, 197

Poule au pot Henri IV., 107

Poulet Saute Grand Duc, 17 Maire, 21 Saute petits diables, 17

Pourville, 38

Prague, 204

Prawns, 17, 43, 48

Presciutto con fichi, 169

Prices charged at restaurants, 8, 14, 17, 29, 34, 39, 40, 43, 45, 50, 52, 57, 58, 61, 63, 66, 75, 88, 96, 97, 105, 115, 119, 128, 134, 136, 144, 147, 148, 155, 164, 166, 181, 183, 201, 209, 210, 212, 219, 221, 223

Prinz Wilhelm Cafe, Berlin, 149

Provence, 73

Prunier's restaurant, 32

Pucca baruca, 166

Puchero, 179

Puloski's Restaurant, 32

Puys, 38

Pyrenees, the, 69

Quadri, Restaurant, Venice, 164

Rat Mort Restaurant, 33

Rathskeller, 113 Hamburg, 143 Wiesbaden, 134

Ravioli, 158

Regence, restaurant, Nice, 59

Reichshof, Berlin, 149

Remoulins, 74

Reserve, cafe, Marseilles, 54 Cannes, 56 Restaurant de la (Beaulieu), 60

Restaurant, good cheap, 33

Restaurant Re, 66 des Fleurs, 31 Summer, 26

Riche, Cafe, 4

Risotto, 158, 171 Certosino, 162 Milanese, 162

Ritz, Hotel, 14, 18

Ritz, M., 153

Riz de Veau Foyot, 25

Rocher de Cancale, restaurant, 4, 84

Roches Noire, 43

Rognone Trifolato, 160

Rome, 172

Roti Kouzoum, 227

Rotterdam, 109

Rouen, 42

Rouennais Paillard, 12 a la Presse, 12

Roumania, 207

Rudesheimer restaurant, 149

Rumpelmayer, 71, 76

Russian restaurant, 31 dishes, 217

Sacher's Restaurant, Vienna, 197

Salade Gauloise, 18 Georgette, 17 Ideale, 12 de Princesses Liegeoises, 81 Russe, 39

Salamanca, 5

San Sebastian, 184

Santander, 187

Sardines, 2, 48

Sarmalute, 207

Sauerkraut, 111

Scheveningen, 109

Schiacciata, 169

Schweitzerhof, Lucerne, 153

Scordolea, 207

Selianka, 218

Seville, 189

Shrimps, 37, 43

Smoergasbord, 212, 214

Snails, 32

Sole au vin Rouge, 5 Marguery, 21 Normande, 36, 42, 107 Paillard, 12 Waleska, 65

Sole, filet de, a la Russe, 12 Egyptiennes, 65 Kotchoubey, 12

Soles, 2

Sopa de Camarao, 194

Sou Fassu, 73

Souffle Palmyre, 107

Souffle Pole Nord, 17 King Edward VII., 197

Spa, 85

Spagetti, 158, 177

Spagetti alle Vongole, 176

Spaghetti a sugo di carne, 171

Spanish restaurants, 31 cookery, 178

Spezzia, 167

Spigola, 176

Srazis, 218

St-Cloud, 34

St-Germain, 34

St-Malo, 47

St-Petersburg, 222

St-Remy, 74

Stadt Gotha Restaurant, Dresden, 119

Stephan Keller, 197

Stocafisso alla Genovese, 163

Stockholm, 210

Storvik, 213

Stracotto, 169

Supreme de Volaille Grand Duc, 12

Switzerland, 151

Sylvain's Restaurant, 22, 30

Tarascon, 73

Tavernes, 30, 32, 34

Terrine de Fois Gras a la gelee au Porto, 13

Tettachine, 158

Thurion's Restaurant, 33

Thuernagel Restaurant, Duesseldorf, 128

Tiedemann and Grahl's Restaurant, 119

Timbale de queues d'Ecrevisses, Mantua, 12

Tirlemont, 79

Tomatoes, 176

Topper's Cafe, Berlin, 149

Tortoni's Restaurant, 38 brasserie, 39

Tour d'Argent, 11, 22

Tournedos a la Rossini, 18

Treteau de Tabarin Restaurant, 32

Triglie alla Livornese, 171

Trinetti, 158

Tripes a la mode de Caen, 44

Trois Freres Provenceaux Cafe, 4

Trout, 2, 28, 77, 116, 154, 197, 201

Trouville Deauville, 43

Truffles, 160

Turin, 159

Turkey, 220

Turkeys, Norfolk, 3

Tuscan dinner, 170

Uova di Bufola, 174

Van der Pyl's Restaurant, 105

Veal, 2

Veau a la Casserole, 4

Vegetable dishes, 3

Venice, 164

Veron, Cafe, 4

Very, Cafe, 4

Vichy, 77

Vienna, 196 wines, 196

Viennese restaurants, 31

Vieux Calvados, 45

Villa Julia, La, at Pont Avin, 48

Villefranche, 61

Vitello Uccelletto, 163

Voisin's Cafe, 6, 9

Walnuts, 177

Warsaw, 225

Waterzoei de Poulet, 81

Wiesbaden, 133

Wine cellars, 198

Wines, 21, 22, 25, 27, 28, 29, 32, 34, 38, 41, 45, 50, 61, 70, 87, 88, 116, 150, 155, 159, 160, 162, 164, 174, 177, 180, 193, 196, 198, 201, 205 Amarena di Siracusa, 177 Bordeaux, 141 Chianti, 169 Diamante, 181 Dragasani, 208 Marsala, 177 Moscato di Siracusa, 177 Moselle, 128 Rhine, 129, 149 Rioja, 181 Valdepenas, 180

Wimille, 37

Woodcocks, 82, 102 feast, 82

Yachni, 227

Yalandji Dolmas, 227

Yaourt, 227

Zabajone, 158, 165

Zaragoza, 187

Zucchini Ripieni, 160

Zum Weissen Roessl, Berlin, 150

Zuppa di Vongole, 176 Inglese, 174 Datteri, 167 Peoci, 165 Pesce, 173

THE END

Printed by R. & R. Clark, Limited. Edinburgh.



Transcriber's Notes

Page 20, Is is corrected to It is

Page 150, Raeuberhotle corrected to Raeuberhohle

Page 150, Zunweissen corrected to Zum Weissen (also in Index)

Page 158, paste corrected to pasta, "another pasta dish"

In the Index, added reference to Page 13 in the entry for Perdreau et Caille Paillard.

Some spellings and accents are used inconsistently throughout the text. They have been left as in the original since they are potentially intentional.

THE END