Gold and Green.—First bath, 1 lb. Cyanole extra, 7-1/4 oz. Acid green, 1-1/2 oz. Orange G G, and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda; work at the boil for one hour, then lift and rinse well. Second bath, 4 lb. Diamine orange G and 15 lb. Glauber's salt; work in the cold or at a lukewarm heat. Third bath, at 120 deg. F., 4 oz. Chrysoidine and 1/4 oz. Safranine.

Black and Blue.—First bath, 3-1/2 lb. Naphthol black 3 B and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. Second bath, 2 lb. Diamine sky blue and 13 lb. Glauber's salt. Third bath, 6-1/2 oz. New Methylene blue N. Work as in the last recipe.

Green and Claret.—First bath, 3-1/2 lb. Naphthol red C and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. Second bath, 2 lb. Diamine sky blue F F, 1-1/4 lb. Thioflavine S, and 15 lb. Glauber's salt.

Gold Brown and Blue.—First bath, 2-1/2 oz. orange E N Z, 1-1/2 oz. Orange G G, 1/4 oz. Cyanole extra and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. Second bath, 14 oz. Diamine sky blue F F and 15 lb. Glauber's salt.

Dark Brown and Blue.—First bath, 1/2 lb. Orange G G, 1-1/2 oz. Orange E N Z, 1-1/2 oz. Cyanole extra and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. Second bath, 12 oz. Diamine sky blue F F and 15 lb. Glauber's salt.

Black and Green Blue.—First bath, 3 lb. Orange G G, 1 lb. Brilliant cochineal 4 R, 1 lb. Fast acid green B N and 10 lb. Glauber's salt. Second bath, 1-3/4 lb. Diamine sky blue F F, 3-1/4 lb. Thioflavine S and 15 lb. Glauber's salt.

We may here note that in all the above recipes the second bath (for dying the cotton) should be used cold or at lukewarm heat and as strong as possible. It is not completely exhausted of colour, only about one-half going on the fibre. If kept as a standing bath this feature should be borne in mind, and less dye-stuff used in the dyeing of the second and following lots of goods.

Blue and Gold Yellow.—3 lb. Diamine orange G, 13 oz. Naphthol blue G, 14-1/2 oz. Formyl violet S 4 B and 15 lb. Glauber's salt. Work at just under the boil.

Brown and Blue.—1 lb. Diamine steel blue L, 9-1/2 oz. Diamine sky blue, 1 lb. Orange E N Z, 1 lb. Indian yellow G, 1-3/4 oz. Naphthol blue black and 15 lb. Glauber s salt. Work at 170 deg. to 180 deg. F.

In these two last recipes only one bath is used, all the dyes being added at once. This is possible if care be taken that dye-stuffs of two kinds are used, one or more which will dye wool and not cotton from neutral baths, and those direct dyes which dye cotton better than wool. The temperature should also be kept below the boil and carefully regulated as the operation proceeds and the results begin to show themselves.

Grey and Orange.—First bath, 3 oz. Orange extra, 1-1/4 lb. Cyanole extra, 1 lb. Azo red A and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. Second bath, 5 oz. Diamine orange D C and 3 oz. Diamine fast yellow B.

Green and Red.—First bath, 2 lb. Croceine A Z, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt. Second bath, 1 lb. Diamine sky blue F F, 1/2 lb. Thioflavine S, and 15 lb. Glauber's salt.

Brown and Violet.—First bath, 3/4 lb. Orange extra, 3/4 lb. Cyanole extra, and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. Second bath, 5 oz. Diamine brilliant blue G, and 15 lb. Glauber's salt.

Black and Yellow.—First bath, 7 lb. Naphthol black B, 1/2 lb. Fast yellow S, and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. Second bath 3 lb. Diamine fast yellow A, and 15 lb. Glauber's salt.

Black and Pink.—Black as above. Pink with Diamine rose B D (see above).

Green and Buff.—First bath, 1/4 lb. Orange extra, 3/4 oz. Fast yellow S, and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. Second bath, 3/4 lb. Diamine sky blue F F, 1/2 lb. Thioflavine S, and 15 lb. Glauber's salt.

Orange and Violet.—First bath, 9 oz. Orange extra, and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. Second bath, 3/4 lb. Diamine violet N, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt.

Black and Blue.—First bath, Naphthol black as given above. Second bath, Diamine sky blue as given above.

Black and Yellow.—Add first 1 lb. Wool black 6 B, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt, then, when the wool has been dyed, add 2 lb. Curcumine S to dye the cotton in the same bath.

Green and Red.—Dye the wool by using 3 lb. Guinea green B, 1/4 lb. Curcumeine extra, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt, then add to the bath 3/4 lb. Erika B N, and 3/4 lb. Congo Corinth G.

Orange and Blue.—Dye the wool first with 1-1/4 lb. Mandarine G, 2 oz. Wool black 6 B, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt; then the cotton with 2 lb. Columbia blue G.

Blue and Orange.—Dye the wool first with 3/4 lb. Guinea violet B, 3/4 lb. Guinea green B, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt; then dye the cotton with 2 lb. Mikado orange 4 R O.

Green and Orange.—Dye the wool with 3 lb. Guinea green B, 1/4 lb. Curcumeine extra, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt, then dye the cotton in the same bath with 1-1/2 lb. Mikado orange 4 R O.



CHAPTER VI.

DYEING HALF SILK (COTTON-SILK, SATIN) FABRICS.

The direct dyes of the Diamine, Benzo and Congo types have been of late years increasingly used for dyeing satin (silk and cotton), and they have quite displaced the old methods of dyeing this class of fabrics, which consisted in first dyeing the silk with an acid dye and then dyeing the cotton with a basic dye. For details of the method of applying acid dyes to silk reference may be made to Mr. G.H. Hurst's book on Silk Dyeing.

Most of the direct colours are exceedingly well adapted for this purpose, some under certain conditions possess the property of dyeing the cotton a deeper shade than the silk, which is an advantage rather than otherwise.

The dyeing of goods composed of silk and cotton is generally done in winch dye-vats, in some cases also on the jigger.

METHOD OF DYEING.

The direct colours are as a rule dyed in a soap-bath with addition of phosphate of soda, Glauber's salt or common salt and a little soda.

The addition of these salts effects a better exhaustion of the baths; they are therefore principally used for dark and full shades, whilst pale shades are dyed with the addition of soap only or in combination with phosphate of soda. Dark or pale shades may thus be produced at will by selecting the proper additions, but the fact should not be overlooked that the greater exhaustion of the baths not only increases the depth of shade of the cotton but also causes the silk to absorb more dye-stuff. Too large a proportion of salt would cause the dye-stuffs to go on the fibre too quickly and thus make the dyeing liable to turn out uneven.

A large proportion of soap counteracts the effects of the salts, causing the dye-stuff to go on less quickly and tending to leave the silk lighter than the cotton, in some cases even almost white, a property which is valuable in many cases, especially as enabling the silk and cotton to be dyed in different colours to obtain shot effects.

It is thus obvious that a general method applicable in all cases cannot be given; it will vary according to the effect desired, and partly also depend on the material to be dyed.

The following particulars may serve as a guide for the first bath:—

For pale shades each 10 gallons dye-liquor should contain 3-1/4 to 6-1/2 oz. soap and 4 to 7 drs. soda or 3-1/4 to 6-1/2 oz. soap, 4 to 5-1/2 drs. soda and 3-1/4 to 6-1/2 oz. phosphate of soda.

For medium and dark shades each 10 gallons dye-liquor may contain 3-1/4 to 6-1/2 oz. soap, 4 to 7 drs. soda, 3-1/4 to 6-1/2 oz. phosphate of soda and 6-1/2 to 13 oz. cryst. Glauber's salt.

For two coloured effects or dyeings, in which the silk is intended to remain as pale as possible or even white, each 10 gallons dye-liquor may contain 4-3/4 to 8 oz. soap, 4 to 6 drs. soda, 3-1/4 to 8 oz. phosphate of soda and 4-3/4 to 9-1/2 oz. cryst. Glauber's salt.

The temperature of the dye-baths is generally 175 deg. to 195 deg. F.; in practical dyeing it is usual to boil up the fully charged dye-bath, shut off the steam, enter the goods and dye for about three-quarters of an hour.

For obtaining level dyeings in pale shades it is advisable not to enter the goods too hot, but to raise the temperature gradually. Raising the temperature, or dyeing for some time at the boil will deepen the shade of the cotton, but at the same time will have the same effect on the silk which may sometimes be an advantage when dyeing dark shades.

As a complete exhaustion of the baths does not take place, especially when dyeing dark shades, it is advantageous, nay, even imperative, to preserve the baths for further use, they are then replenished with only about three-fourths of the quantities of dye-stuffs used for the first bath, of the soap only about one fourth, of Glauber's salt, soda and phosphate of soda only about one-fifth, of the first quantities are necessary.

The first bath should be prepared with condensed water. If none is at hand ordinary water should be boiled up with soda and soap and the scum removed. Clear soap baths are absolutely necessary for the production of pure shades and clean pieces.

After dyeing, the pieces must be very well rinsed, and the colour raised or brightened with 1 pint of acetic acid in 10 gallons of water.

Many of the Diamine and Titan colours being very fast to acids, but few of them will be affected by this treatment.

In the following tables are given those Diamine, etc., colours especially adapted for the dyeing of goods composed of silk and cotton, divided into three groups according to their relation to silk and cotton:—

1. Dye-stuffs possessing a great affinity to cotton and tinting the silk not at all or only very little. To this class belong Chicago blues, Benzo blues, Diamine fast yellow A, Diamine orange G G, Diamine orange D C, Diamine blue B B, Diamine blue 3 B, Diamine sky blue F F, Diamine brilliant blue G, Diamineral blue E, Diamine black B, Mikado browns, Mikado oranges, Mikado yellows.

2. Dye-stuffs producing on cotton and silk the same or nearly the same shade but covering the cotton better than the silk. These are Thioflavine S, Diamine yellow N, Diamine gold, Diamine fast yellow B, Diamine orange B, Diamine grey G, Diamine rose B D, Diamine scarlet S, Diamine scarlet B, Diamine scarlet 3 B, Diamine red 5 B, Diamine fast red F, Diamine Bordeaux B, Diamine Bordeaux S, Diamine violet N, Oxydiamine violet B, Diamine blue R W, Diamine black H W, Diamine steel blue L, Diamine dark blue B, Union black S, Oxydiamine black D, Diaminogene extra, Diaminogene B, Diamine brown M, Diamine brown 3 G, Diamine green B, Diamine green G.

3. Dye-stuffs producing on cotton more or less different shades than on silk. This group comprises Diamine blue C B, Diamine blue B G, Diamine blue B X, Diamine azo blue 2 R, Diamine blue 3 R, Diamine blue black E, Diamine black R O, Oxydiamine black S O O O, Diamine brown V, Diamine brown B, Diamine bronze G. Cotton brown N produces on silk darker shades than on cotton.

Of course this classification cannot be taken as absolutely correct, as by raising or lowering the temperature during the dyeing process or by a larger or smaller addition of soap or Glauber's salt (common salt, phosphate of soda), the dye-stuffs are more or less influenced in one or the other direction. Diamine violet N, for instance, when dyed with an increased addition of soap would dye the cotton somewhat lighter, but at the same time leave the silk perfectly white.

Topping with Basic and Acid Dye-stuffs.—As in very few cases only the desired shade can be obtained in the first instance by bottoming with direct colours, topping generally has to be resorted to. This is best done with basic dyes, in some cases also with acid dye-stuffs in cold or tepid bath with addition of sulphuric acid, hydrochloric or acetic acid. The use of acid dye-stuffs is restricted to cases where the silk alone is to be shaded. In most cases basic dye-stuffs are made use of, which dye silk and cotton the same shade and deepen the shade of the cotton if the latter has a sufficiently good bottom, thus giving the goods a better and fuller appearance.

It is not advisable to employ basic and acid dye-stuffs in the same bath except when the quantities of either class are very small. Should it be necessary to dye with large quantities of both classes, the acid dye-stuffs are first dyed in a tepid acid bath and then the goods are topped with the basic dye-stuffs in a fresh cold bath with the addition of a little hydrochloric or acetic acid.

Of the basic dye-stuffs which are available, the following are the most suitable for topping: New methylene blue N, and other brands; New blue D and other brands; Cresyl blue, Methylindone B and R, Metaphenylene blue, Indazine; the various brands of Brilliant green, Solid green and Malachite green, Capri green, Cresyl violet, Thioflavine T, New phosphine G, Tannin orange R, and the various brands of Bismarck brown; Safranine, Magenta all brands, Tannin heliotrope, all brands of Neutral violet, Methyl violet.

Of the acid dye-stuffs, the following are good for topping or shading the silk: Cyanole extra, Indigo blue N, Indigo blue S G N, and the various brands of Water blue, Soluble blue, Solid blue, and Induline; the various brands of Acid green and Fast acid green; Indian yellow G and R, Naphthol yellow S, Tropaeoline O and O O, and the various brands of Milling yellow and Orange; Azo red A, Azo rubine A, Archil substitute N, Azo orseille B B, Brilliant orseille C, and the various brands of Eosine, Erythrosine, Rose bengale, Rhodamine, Brilliant croceine and Brilliant scarlet; the various brands of Formyl violet and Acid violet; Aniline grey B and Nigrosine, soluble in water.

Bright Yellow.—Use 2 lb. Thioflavine S.

Deep Orange Yellow.—This can be dyed by using 2 lb. Diamine yellow N.

Gold Yellow.—Dye with 2 lb. Diamine gold. Some care must be taken with this, especially not to dye too hot or the silk will be dyed deeper than the cotton.

Deep Orange.—Use 2 lb. Diamine orange B.

Bright Rose.—Use 2 lb. Diamine Rose B D. Do not work too high, especially when dyeing light rose shades, as then the silk is apt to take up too much colour.

Scarlet.—Use in the dye-bath 2 lb. Diamine scarlet H S. The heat of the dye-bath should not be allowed to exceed 160 deg. to 170 deg. F., or there is a risk of the shades becoming somewhat duller.

Crimson.—Dye with 2 lb. Diamine fast red F.

Violet.—Use 2 lb. Oxydiamine violet B.

Bright Blue.—A fine shade is dyed with 2 lb. Diamine blue R W.

Dark Green.—Use 2 lb. Diamine black H W. This gives a fine shade of bluish green.

Gold Brown.—Dye with 2 lb. Diamine brown 3 G at a low heat, from 150 deg. to 160 deg. F., otherwise the silk takes up too much colour.

Dark Green.—Dye with 2 lb. Diamine green B.

Deep Rose.—Dye with 2 lb. Diamine red 10 B.

Brilliant Yellow.—Dye with 1-1/2 lb. Mikado golden yellow 8 G; then enter into a cold bath which contains 1-1/2 per cent. Auramine II. This gives a very bright shade of yellow.

Dark Brown.—Dye a bottom with 2 lb. Mikado brown 3 G O, and then top with 3 lb. Bismarck brown and 1/2 lb. Capri blue G O N.

Crimson.—Dye with 2 lb. Mikado orange 5 R O and 2 lb. Hessian purple N.

Sage Green.—Dye a bottom with 2 lb. Mikado yellow G, 14 oz. Eboli green T and 3 oz. Mikado brown M, then top in a fresh cold bath with 1/2 lb. Auramine II and 1/2 oz. Acridine Orange N 0.

Leaf Green.—Dye a bottom with 3 lb. Mikado golden yellow 8 G and 1 lb. Eboli blue B; then top with 1-1/2 lb. Capri green 2 G in a cold bath.

Deep Brown.—Dye with 2 lb. Mikado orange 3 R O, 3 lb. Hessian grey S and 1 lb. Hessian brown 2 B N; then top with 7 oz. Azine green T 0 and 2-1/4 lb. Acridine orange N 0.

Dark Cream.—Bottom with 1 oz. Diamine orange G; then top in a fresh warm bath with 1 oz. Orange G G, 1/2 oz. Indian yellow R, 5 lb. Glauber's salt and 1 lb. acetic acid.

Brilliant Violet.—Give a bottom with 1 lb. Diamine violet N; then top in a fresh warm bath with 4 oz. Methyl violet B and 2 oz. Rhodamine.

Slate.—Bottom in a hot bath with 6 oz. Diamine dark blue B and 1-1/2 oz. Diamine brown M; then top in a fresh bath at 170 deg. F. with 4 oz. Aniline grey B, 1 oz. Cyanole extra, 5 lb. Glauber's salt and 1 lb. acetic acid.

Black Brown.—Give a bottom with 2 lb. Cotton brown A, 1 lb. Diamine gold and 3-1/2 lb. Oxydiamine black S O O O; then top in a fresh bath at 120 deg. F. with 4 oz. New methylene blue N, 1 oz. Safranine and 1/2 oz. Indian yellow G.

Bright Violet.—Use 1/2 lb. Oxydiamine violet B and 3/4 oz. Diamine dark blue B; top after dyeing with 1/2 oz. Safranine, 1/4 oz. Methylindone B and 1/4 oz. Cyanole extra.

Drab.—Dye with 6 oz. Diamine orange G, 1 lb. Diamine bronze G and 3/4 lb. Diamine brown M, topping afterwards in a bath of 1/4 oz. Aniline grey B and 1/4 oz. Bismarck brown F F.

Leaf Green.—Dye with 1/2 lb. Diamine black H W, and 1 lb. Diamine fast yellow B; top with 1/4 oz. Brilliant green, 1/4 oz. Indian yellow R, 1/2 oz. Thioflavine T and 1/2 oz. Cyanole extra.

Dark Crimson.—Use in the dye-bath 3 lb. Diamine Bordeaux S, 3/4 lb. Diamine orange D C and 1-1/2 lb. Diamine brown V, topping with 1 oz. Magenta and 1/2 oz. Formyl violet S 4 B.

Turquoise Blue.—Use to dye the ground, 6 oz. Diamine sky blue F F and 1/2 oz. Diamine fast yellow A; top with 1-1/2 oz. Cyanole extra and 1/4 oz. Brilliant green.

Dark Grey.—Dye with 1/2 oz. Diamine grey G, and 1-1/2 oz. Diamine brown M; top with 1/4 oz. Orange extra and 1 oz. Cyanole extra.

Brilliant Orange.—Dye with 1 lb. Mikado orange R O, and top with 6 oz. Acridine orange N O and 12 oz. Auramine I I.

Brown.—Dye a bottom colour with 3 lb. Mikado brown M, and top with 2 lb. Bismarck brown and 6 oz. Cresyl fast violet 2 R N.

Deep Crimson.—Dye with 1 lb. Columbia black R and top with 6 oz. Magenta.

Pale Sea Green.—Use in the dye-bath 1/2 oz. Chrysophenine G, 1-1/2 oz. Chicago blue 6 B and 1-1/2 oz. Alkali blue 6 B.

Bright Crimson.—Dye with 3 lb. Congo Corinth and top with 1 lb. Magenta.

Dark Russian Green.—Dye with 3 lb. Columbia black B; then top with 1 lb. Malachite green.

Gold Drab.—Dye with 5 oz. Columbia black, and top with 5 oz. Chrysoidine R.

Bright Olive Yellow.—Dye with 1-1/2 lb. Diamine gold, 1-1/2 lb. Diamine fast yellow A and 3/4 lb. Diamine bronze G; top with 1/2 lb. Thioflavine T and 1/4 lb. Chrysoidine.

Moss Brown.—Dye with 1 oz. Diamine brown M, 6 oz. Diamine fast yellow A, 6 oz. Diamine bronze G, topping with 1 oz. new Methylene blue N and 4 oz. Orange G G.

Dark Sea Green—Dye a bottom with 9 oz. Diamine black B and 4-1/2 oz. Diamine fast yellow B, then top with 2 oz. New methylene blue M and 2 oz. New phosphine G.

Old Gold.—Dye a ground with 1/2 lb. Diamine gold, 1-1/4 lb. Diamine fast yellow A, and 6 oz. Diamine bronze G, topping with 8 oz. Thioflavine T, 1 oz. Indian yellow R and 1 oz. Brilliant green.

Cornflower Blue.—Dye the ground with 2-1/2 lb. Diamine azo blue 2 B, 1-1/2 oz. Alkali blue 3 B, 1/2 lb. Oxydiamine black S O O O, and top with 1 oz. Metaphenylene blue B, 2 oz. New methylene blue R and 1 oz. Indigo blue N.

Slate.—Dye with 7 oz. Diamine dark blue B and 1 oz. Diamine brown M; top with 1 oz. Aniline grey B and 1 oz. Cyanole extra.

Pale Drab.—Dye the ground with 1 oz. Diamine orange G C, 3/4 oz. Diamine bronze G and 1/2 oz. Diamine brown M; top with 3/4 oz. New methylene blue N, 1 oz. Bismarck brown and 1 oz. Cyanole extra.

Deep Leaf Green.—Dye a ground colour with 1-1/4 lb. Diamine bronze G, 1-1/2 lb. Diamine fast yellow A and 1-1/2 lb. Diamine black H W; the topping bath is made with 1/2 lb. Brilliant green, 1/2 lb. Chrysoidine and 1/4 lb. New methylene blue N.

Maroon.—Dye with 3 lb. Diamine Bordeaux S, 1/2 lb. Diamine orange D C and 1/2 lb. Diamine brown V; top with 1/2 lb. Magenta and 1/4 lb. Formyl violet S 4 B.

Heliotrope.—Dye with 1 lb. Heliotrope 2 B.

Lilac Rose.—Dye with 8 lb. Columbia black R and 1 lb. Alkali blue B; after dyeing pass through a weak acetic acid bath, then wash well.

Pea Green.—Dye with 2 lb. Chrysophenine, 1 lb. Chicago blue 6 B and 1 lb. Alkali blue 6 B; pass, after dyeing, through a weak acetic acid bath, then wash well.

Dark Drab.—Dye with 1/4 lb. Diamine brown M, 1 lb. Diamine fast yellow A and 3/4 lb. Diamine bronze G; top with 1/2 lb. Orange G G and 1/2 lb. Cyanole extra.

Deep Rose.—Dye the bottom colour with 1/2 lb. Diamine rose B D and top with 1/4 lb. Rhodamine B and 1 oz. Safranine.

Walnut Brown.—Dye the bottom colour with 1 lb. Oxydiamine black D, 1 lb. Diamine brown M and 1 lb. Oxydiamine violet B; the topping is done with 4 oz. Safranine, 2 oz. New methylene blue N and 2 oz. Chrysoidine.

Dyeing of Plain Black.—Diamine blacks find a very extensive application for dyeing blacks on satin, either dyed direct in one bath, or dyed, diazotised and developed.

Union black S and Oxydiamine black D are particularly suitable for direct blacks, and are used either alone or in a combination with Diamine jet black S S, which produces a better covering of the silk, or with Oxydiamine black S O O O, which deepens the shade of the cotton. According to the shade required Diamine fast yellow A and B, Diamine green B or G, or Alkaline blue may be used for shading.

Dye for about one hour at about 175 deg. to 195 deg. F. in as concentrated a bath as possible, with about 7 to 8 lb. dye per 100 lb. of satin, 8 to 16 oz. Glauber's salt and 5 to 8 oz. soap per 10 gallons dye liquor; keep cool in the bath for some time and rinse.

The raising is either done in a tepid soap bath with the addition of some new methylene blue, or in an acid bath to which Naphthol, blue black, Acid green, etc., is added for shading the silk.

Direct dyed blacks are especially suitable for cheap goods (ribbons, light linings, etc.), for which special fastness to water is not required; also for tram and tussar silk plushes, which are afterwards topped with logwood.

If greater fastness is required, and more especially if it is a case of replacing aniline black, Diaminogene diazotised and developed is a good dye-stuff. It is extensively used for dyeing umbrella cloths and linings. Against aniline black it has the great advantage of not tendering the fibre in the least, and not turning green during storage. Diaminogene B and Diaminogene extra are mostly used for this purpose, the former for jet blacks, the latter for blue-black shades.

Proceed as follows: Enter the boiled off and acidulated goods in a boiling bath as concentrated as possible, charged with 16 oz. Glauber's salt per 10 gallons liquor, and 1 lb. acetic acid per 100 lb. dry goods. For jet black add for 100 lb. satin, 6 to 8 lb. Diaminogene, 1 to 2 lb. Naphthylamine black D, 1/2 to 1 lb. Diamine fast yellow A or Diamine green B; for very deep shades about 1/5 of the quantity of Diaminogene B may be replaced with Diamine jet black S S. For blue black, 6 to 8 lb. Diaminogene B, or 3 to 4 lb. Diaminogene B, and 3 to 4 lb. Diaminogene extra. Dye for three-quarters to one hour at the boil, allow to cool in the bath for about thirty minutes, then rinse, diazotise and develop.

Phenylene diamine (93 per cent.) serves for developing jet blacks mixed with resorcine for greenish shades. Beta-naphthol is used for blue blacks (1 lb. 5 oz. per 100 lb. of dry material, dissolved in its own weight of soda lye, 75 deg. Tw.). The three developers may also be mixed with each other in any proportions.

After developing soap hot with addition of new methylene blue, by choosing a reddish or a bluish brand of new methylene, blue and black may be shaded at will in the soap bath; finally rinse and raise with acetic acid.

If properly carried out this process will give a black almost equal to aniline black; but having, as already mentioned, the advantage of not impairing the strength of the fibre, and not turning green during storage.

As the dye-baths for blacks are charged with a proportionately high percentage of dye-stuff for the first bath, and will not exhaust completely, it is advisable to preserve them for further use.

For subsequent lots only two-thirds to three-fourths of the quantities of dye-stuffs used for the first baths are required, which fact has to be taken into consideration when calculating the cost of dyeing.

Dyeing Shot Effects on Satin.—Not all direct colours are equally well adapted for the production of shot effects; those enumerated in Group I. are most suitable for the purpose, and should be dyed with a larger quantity of soap than is usual for solid shades, in order to leave the silk as little tinted as possible. Dye-stuffs of the other groups may be used if the dyeing is conducted with proper care, i.e., keeping the baths more alkaline and lowering the temperature. The goods are dyed with the addition for the two coloured effects previously mentioned, then they are well rinsed, and afterwards the silk is dyed with the suitable acid dye-stuffs, with addition of sulphuric acid at a temperature of about 150 deg. F. Care should be taken not to use too much acid, and to keep the temperature of the bath sufficiently low, as otherwise the acid may cause some of the dye-stuff to go off the cotton and tint the silk. It is best to work at a temperature of about 150 deg. F., with addition of about 3 oz. concentrated sulphuric acid per 10 gallons dye-liquor.

For shading the silk all acid dye-stuffs can be used which have been mentioned in the foregoing tables.

If in shot effects the cotton is to be dyed bright and full shades, this is best achieved by dyeing with direct colours first, and then topping with basic colours as follows:—

Bottom the cotton first with the suitable direct colours, then dye the silk and then treat the pieces for about two hours in a cold tannin bath (about 8 oz. tannin per 10 gallons of water), then rinse once and pass through a tartar emetic bath (about 3 oz. per 10 gallons), rinse thoroughly and dye the cotton to shade with basic colours in a cold bath to which some acetic acid has been added.

Should the silk become a little dull after this process, this may be remedied by a slight soaping. After dyeing rinse well and raise with acetic acid.

Shot Effects with Black Cotton Warp.—Effects much in favour are designs composed of black cotton and light or coloured silk. The most suitable black dye for this purpose is Diamine black B H, diazotised and developed.

Dye in as concentrated a bath as possible at about 160 deg. F. with about 6 lb. Diamine black B H, 1 lb. Diamine sky blue, pat., per 100 lb. of dry goods, 1/2 lb. Diamine orange D C, pat., with an addition of 6-1/2 oz. soap, 4 to 5 dr. soda per 10 gallons liquor, 16 oz. Glauber's salt. After dyeing rinse well in a bath containing 6 dr. soda and 3 oz. soap per 10 gallons water, diazotised in a fresh bath with 4 lb. nitrite of soda and 12 lb. hydrochloric acid (per 100 lb. of dry goods), rinse thoroughly and develop with 3 to 16 oz. phenylene diamine (93 per cent.), with addition of 1 to 2 lb. soda. These two operations should follow each other as quickly as possible, also care has to be taken that the diazotised goods are not exposed to direct sunlight or heat, which causes unlevel dyeings. The silk is then cleaned as far as possible by hot soaping, and dyed at about 120 deg. to 140 deg. F., with acid dye-stuffs and the addition of sulphuric acid. After dyeing rinse as usual and brighten.

Yellow and Violet,—Dye the cotton with 2 lb. Diamine fast yellow A, the silk with 1 lb. Cyanole extra, and 1 lb. Forinyl violet S 4 B.

Black and Blue.—Dye the cotton with 5 lb. Diamine black B H, 1 lb. Diamine sky blue, and 1/4 lb. Diamine orange D C. After dyeing, diazotise and develop with phenylene diamine as described above. Then dye the silk with 1/2 lb. Pure soluble blue and 1 lb. Cyanole extra.

Black and Crimson.—Dye the black as in the previous recipe, then dye the silk with 2 lb. Brilliant croceine 3 B and 1/2 lb. Rhodamine S.

Blue and Gold.—Dye the cotton with 2 lb. Diamine sky blue and the silk with 1 lb. Fast yellow S.

Dark Blue and Green.—Dye the cotton with 1-1/2 lb. Diamine black B H, 1-1/2 lb. Diamine sky blue and 1/2 lb. Diamine azo blue 2 R; the silk with 2 lb. Naphthol yellow S and 1 lb. New methylene blue G G.

Violet and Yellow.—Dye the cotton with 2 oz. Diamine violet N and the silk with 1 lb. Fast yellow S.

Orange and Violet.—Dye the cotton with 2 lb. Diamine orange D C and the silk with 1 lb. Formyl violet S 4 B.

Dark Blue and Olive.—Dye the cotton with 1-1/2 lb. Diamineral blue R and 1/2 lb. Diamine azo blue 2 R, and the silk with 1 lb. Naphthol yellow B and 1 lb. Orange G G.

Green and Pink.—Dye the cotton with 1-1/2 lb. Diamine fast yellow A and 1/4 lb. Diamine sky blue, and the silk with 1 lb. Erythrosine B.

Brown and Blue.—Dye the cotton with 3 lb. Mikado brown 2 B, and the silk with 1/2 lb. Pure blue.

It is quite possible to produce two coloured effects containing blue in one bath by using Alkali blue as a constituent with a direct dye which works only on to the cotton, the alkali blue going on to the silk, as, for example, in the following recipes:—

Orange and Blue.—The dye-bath is made with 3 lb. Mikado orange 5 R O and 1-1/4 lb. Alkali blue 6 B. After the dyeing the goods are rinsed, then passed through a bath of 1-1/2 lb. sulphuric acid in 10 gallons water, washed well and dried.

Olive and Blue.—The dye-bath is made with 1-1/2 lb. Diamine fast yellow A, 2-1/2 lb. Diamine orange DC, 1/4 lb. Diamine sky blue, and 1 lb. Alkali blue 6 B, After dyeing rinse, then acidulate as above and wash well.



CHAPTER VII.

OPERATIONS FOLLOWING DYEING.

WASHING, SOAPING, DRYING.

After loose cotton or wool, or cotton and woollen yarns, or piece goods of every description have been dyed, before they can be sent out for sale they have to pass through various operations of a purifying character. There are some operations through which cloths pass that have as their object the imparting of a certain appearance and texture to them, generally known as finishing processes; of these it is not intended here to speak, but only of those which precede these, but follow on the dyeing operations.

These processes are usually of a very simple character, and common to most colours which are dyed, and here will be noticed the appliances and manipulation necessary in the carrying out of these operations.

Squeezing or Wringing.—It is advisable when the goods are taken out of the dye-bath to squeeze or wring them according to circumstances, in order to press out all surplus dye-liquor, which can be returned to the dye-bath if needful to be used again. This is an economical proceeding in many cases, especially in working with many of the old tannin materials like sumac, divi-divi, myrobolams, and the modern direct dyes which in the dyeing operations are not completely extracted out of the bath, or in other words, the dye-bath is not exhausted of colouring matter, and, therefore, it can be used again for another lot of goods, simply by adding fresh material to make up for that absorbed by the first lot of goods.

Loose wool and loose cotton are somewhat difficult to deal with by squeezing or wringing, but the material may be passed through a pair of squeezing rollers, such as are shown in Fig. 31, which will be more fully dealt with later on. The machine shown is made by Messrs Read Holliday & Sons.



Yarns in Hanks.—In the hank-dyeing process the hanks are wrung by placing one end of the hank on a wringing horse placed over the dye-tub, a dye stick on the other end of the hank giving two or three sharp pulls to straighten out the yarn, and then twisting the stick round, the twisting of the yarns puts some pressure on the fibres, thoroughly and uniformly squeezing out the surplus liquor from the yarn.

Hank-wringing Machines.—Several forms of hank-wringing machines have been devised. One machine consists of a pair of discs fitted on an axle; these discs carry strong hooks on which the hanks are placed. The operator places a hank on a pair of the hooks. The discs revolve and carry round the hank, during the revolution the hank is twisted and the surplus liquor wrung out, when the revolution of the discs carries the hank to the spot where it entered the machine the hooks fly back to their original position, the hank unwinds, it is then removed and a new hank put in its place, and so the machine works on, hanks being put on and off as required. The capacity of such a machine is great, and the efficiency of its working good.

Mr. S. Spencer of Whitefield makes a hank-wringing machine which consists of a pair of hooks placed over a vat. One of the hooks is fixed, the other is made to rotate. A hank hung between the hooks is naturally twisted, and all the surplus liquor wrung out. The liquor falling into the vat.

Roller Squeezing Machines for Yarn.—Hanks may be passed through a pair of indiarubber squeezing rollers, which may be so arranged that they can be fixed as required on the dye-bath. Such a pair of rollers is a familiar article, and quite common and in general use in dye houses.

Piece Goods.—These are generally passed open through a pair of squeezing rollers which are often attached to the dye-vat in which the pieces are dyed.

Read Holliday's Squeezing Machine.—In Fig. 31 is shown a squeezing machine very largely employed for squeezing all kinds of piece goods and cotton warps after dyeing or washing. It consists of a pair of heavy rollers on which, by means of the screws shown at the top, a very considerable pressure can be brought to bear. The piece is run through the eye shown on the left, by which it is made into a rope form, then over the guiding rollers and between the squeezing rollers, and into waggons for conveyance to other machines. This machine is effective.

Another plan on which roller, or rather in this case disc, squeezing machines is made, is to make the bottom roller with a square groove in the centre, into this fits a disc, the cloth passing between them. The top disc can by suitable screws be made to press upon the cloth in the groove, and thus squeeze the water out of it.

Washing.—One of the most important operations following that of dyeing is the washing with water to free the goods, whether cotton or woollen, from all traces of loose dye, acids, mordanting materials, etc., which it is not desirable should be left in, as they might interfere with the subsequent finishing operations. For this purpose a plentiful supply of good clean water is required; this should be as soft as possible, free from any suspended matter which might settle upon the dyed goods, and stain or speck them.

Washing may be done by hand, as it frequently was in olden days, by simply immersing the dyed fabrics in a tub of water, shaking, then wringing out, again placing in fresh water to finish off. Or if the dye-works were on the banks of a running stream of clean water the dyed goods were simply hung in the stream to be washed in a very effectual manner.

In these days it is best to resort to washing machines adapted to deal with the various kinds of fibrous materials and fabrics in which they can be subjected to a current of water.



Loose Wool and Cotton.—If this has been dyed by hand then the washing may also be done in the same way by hand in a plain vat. If the dyeing has been done on a machine, then the washing can be done on the same machine.

Yarns.—Yarn in the cop form is best washed in the machine in which it is dyed.

Yarns in Hanks.—A very common form of washing machine is shown in Fig. 32. As will be seen it consists of a wooden vat, over which are arranged a series of revolving reels on which the hanks are hung. The hanks are kept in motion through the water, and so every part of the yarn is thoroughly washed. Guides keep the hanks of yarn separate and prevent any entanglement one with another. A pipe delivers constantly a current of clean water, while another pipe carries away the used water. Motion is given to the reels in this case by a donkey engine attached to the machine, but it may also be driven by a belt from the main driving shaft of the works. This machine is very effective.



Piece Goods.—Piece goods are mostly washed in machines, of which two broad types may be recognised; first, those where the pieces are dealt with in the form of ropes in a twisted form, and, second, those where the pieces are washed open. There are some machines in which the cloths may be treated either in the open or rope form as may be thought most desirable.



Fig. 33 represents a fairly well-known machine, made by Messrs. Mather & Platt, in which the pieces are treated in a rope-like form. It consists of a trough in which a constant current of water is maintained. At one end of this trough is a square beating roller, at the other a wooden lattice roller. Above the square beater, and out of the trough, are a pair of rollers whose purpose is to draw the cloth through the machine and also partly to act as squeezing rollers. As will be seen the cloth is threaded in rope form spirally round the rollers, passing in at one end and out at the other, pegs in a guide rail serving to keep the various portions separate. The square beater in its revolutions has a beating action on the cloth tending to more effectual washing. The lattice roller is simply a guide roller.

Fig. 34 shows a washing machine very largely used in the wool-dyeing trade. The principal portion of this machine is of wood.

The internal parts consist of a large wooden bowl, or oftener, as in the machine under notice, of a pair of wooden bowls which are pressed together by springs with some small degree of force. Between these bowls the cloth is placed, more or less loosely twisted up in a rope form, and the machines are made to take four, six or eight pieces, or lengths of pieces, at one time, the ends of the pieces being stitched together. A pipe running along the front of the machine conveys a constant current of clean water which is caused to impinge in the form of jets on the pieces of cloth as they run through the machine, while an overflow carries away the used water. The goods are run in this machine until they are considered to be sufficiently washed, which may take half to one and a half hours.

In Fig. 35 is shown a machine designed to wash pieces in the broad or open state. The machine contains a large number of guide rollers, built more or less open, round which the pieces are guided—the ends of the pieces being stitched together. Pipes carrying water are so arranged that jets of clean water impinge on and thoroughly wash the cloth as it passes through—the construction of the guide rollers facilitating the efficient washing of the goods.



Soaping.—- Sometimes yarns or cloths have to be passed through a soap bath after being dyed in order to brighten up the colours or develop them in some way. In the case of yarns this can be done on the reel washing machine such as is shown in Fig. 32. In the case of piece goods, a continuous machine, in which the washing, soaping, etc., can be carried on simultaneously, is often employed. Such a machine is shown in Fig. 36. It consists of a number of compartments fitted with guide rollers so that the cloth passes up and down several times through the liquors in the compartments. Between one compartment and another is placed a pair of squeezing rollers. The cloth is threaded in a continuous manner, well shown in the drawing, through the machine. In one compartment it is treated with water, in another soap liquor, in another water, and so on; and these machines may be made with two, three or more compartments as may be necessary for the particular work in hand. As seen in the drawing, the cloth passes in at one end and out at the other finished. It is usually arranged that a continuous current of the various liquors used flows through the various compartments, thus ensuring the most perfect treatment of the cloths.



Steaming.—Sometimes it becomes necessary to subject dyed goods to a process of steaming, as, for instance, with steam aniline blacks, khaki shades, alizarine reds, etc., for the purpose of more fully developing and fixing the dye upon the fibre. In the case of yarns, this operation is carried out in the steaming cottage, one form of which is shown in Fig. 37. It consists of a horizontal cylindrical iron vessel like a steam boiler, one end is entirely closed, while the other is made to open and be closed tightly and hermetically. The cottage is fitted with the necessary steam inlet and outlet pipes, drain pipes for condensed water, pressure gauges. The yarn to be steamed is hung on rods placed on a skeleton frame waggon on wheels which can be run in and out of the steaming cottage as is required. The drawing shows well the various important parts of the machine. In the case of piece goods these also can be hung from rods in folds on such a waggon, but it is much more customary to employ a continuous steaming chamber, very similar to the ageing and oxidising machine shown in Fig. 38, and also used in the dyeing of aniline black.



Drying.—Following on the washing comes the final operation of the dyeing process, that of drying the dyed and washed goods. Textile fabrics of all kinds after they have passed through dye-baths, washing machines, etc., contain a large amount of water, often exceeding in weight that of the fibre itself, and to take the goods direct from the preceding operations to the drying plant means that a considerable amount of fuel must be expended to drive off this large amount of water. It is therefore very desirable that the goods be freed from as much of this water as possible before they are sent into any drying chambers, and this may be done in three ways, by wringing, squeezing and hydro-extracting. The first two methods have already been described (p. 239, etc.) and need not again be alluded to; the last needs some account.



Hydro-extractors are a most efficient means for extracting water out of textile fabrics. They are made in a variety of forms by several makers. Essentially they consist of a cylindrical vessel, or basket, as it is called, with perforated sides so constructed that it can be revolved at a high speed. This vessel is enclosed in an outer cage. The goods are placed in the basket, as it is termed, and then this is caused to revolve at high speed, when centrifugal action comes into play, and the water contained in the goods finds its way to the outside of the basket through the perforations, and so away from the goods. Hydro-extractors are made in a variety of sizes and forms—in some the driving gear is above, in others below the basket; in some the driving is done by belt-gearing, in others a steam engine is directly connected with the basket. Figs. 39 and 40 show two forms which are much in use in the textile industry. They are very efficient, and extract water from textile goods more completely than any other means, as will be obvious from a study of the table below.



The relative efficiency of the three systems of extracting the moisture out of textile fabrics has been investigated by Grothe, who gives in his Appretur der Gewebe, published in 1882, the following table showing the percentage amount of water removed in fifteen minutes:—

Yarns. Wool. Silk. Cotton. Linen.

Wringing 44.5 45.4 45.3 50.3 Squeezing 60.0 71.4 60.0 73.6 Hydro-extracting 83.5 77.0 81.2 82.8

Pieces.

Wringing 33.4 44.5 44.5 54.6 Squeezing 64.0 69.7 72.2 83.0 Hydro-extracting 77.8 75.5 82.3 86.0

In the practical working of hydro-extractors it is of the utmost importance that the goods be carefully and regularly laid in the basket—not too much in one part and too little in another. Any unevenness in this respect at the speed at which they are driven lays such a strain on the bearings as to seriously endanger the safety of the machine.

After being wrung, squeezed or hydro-extracted the goods are ready to be dried. In the case of yarns, this may be done in rooms heated by steam pipes placed on the floor, the hanks being hung on rods suspended from racks arranged for the purpose.



Where large quantities of yarn have to be dried, it is most economical to employ a yarn-drying machine, and one form of such is shown in Fig. 41. The appearance of the machine is that of one long room from the outside; internally it is divided into compartments, each of which is heated up by suitably arranged steam pipes, but the degree of heating in each compartment varies—at the entrance end it is high, at the exit end lower. The yarn is fed in at one end, being hung on rods, and by suitable gearing it is carried directly through the various chambers or sections, and in its passage the heat to which it is subjected drives off the water it contains. The yarn requires no attention from the time it passes in wet at the one end of the machine and comes out dry at the other end. The amount of labour required is slight, only that represented by filling the sticks with wet yarn and emptying them of the dried yarn. The machine works regularly and well.



The drying is accomplished by circulating heated air through the yarns, this heating being effected by steam coils, fresh air continually enters the chambers, while water-saturated air is as continually being taken out at the top of the chamber. One of the great secrets in all drying operations is to have a constant current of fresh hot air playing on the goods to be dried; this absorbs the moisture they contain, and the water-charged air thus produced must be taken away as quickly as possible.



Fig. 42 shows what is called a truck yarn-dryer, which consists of a chamber heated with steam pipes and fitted with an exhausting fan to draw out the air and water vapour which is produced. The yarns are hung on trucks which can be run in and out of the chamber for filling and emptying.

Piece Goods.—The most convenient manner of drying piece goods is to employ the steam cylinder drying machine, such as is shown in Fig. 43. This consists of a number of hollow tin or copper cylinders which can be heated by steam passing in through the axles of the cylinders, which are made hollow on purpose. The cloth to be dried passes round these cylinders, which revolve while the cloth passes. They work very effectually. The cylinders are arranged sometimes, as in the drawing, vertically; at other times horizontally.



CHAPTER VIII

TESTING OF THE COLOUR OF DYED FABRICS.

It is frequently desirable that dyers should be able to ascertain with some degree of accuracy what dyes have been used to dye any particular samples of dyed cloth that has been offered to them to match. In these days of the thousand and one different dyes that are known it is by no means an easy thing to do; and when, as is most often the case, two or three dye-stuffs have been used in the production of a shade, the difficulty is materially increased.

The only available method is to try the effect of various acid and alkaline reagents on the sample, noting whether any change of colour occurs, and judging accordingly. It would be a good thing for dyers to accustom themselves to test the dyeings they do, and so accumulate a fund of practical experience which will stand them in good stead whenever they have occasion to examine a dyed pattern of unknown origin.

The limits of this book does not permit of there being given a series of elaborate tables showing the action of various chemical reagents on fabrics dyed with various colours; and such, indeed, serve very little purpose, for it is most difficult to describe the minor differences which often serve to distinguish one colour from another. Instead of doing so, we will point out in some detail the methods of carrying out the various tests, and advise all dyers to carry these out for themselves on samples dyed with known colours, and when they have an unknown colour to test to make tests comparatively with known colours that they think are likely to have been used in the production of the dyed fabric they are testing.

One very common method is to spot the fabric, that is, to put a drop of the reagent on it, usually with the end of the stopper of the reagent bottle, and to observe the colour changes, if any, which ensue. This is a very useful test and should not be omitted, and it is often employed in the testing of indigo dyed goods with nitric acid, those of logwood with hydrochloric acid, alizarine with caustic soda, and many others. It is simple and easy to carry out, and only takes a few minutes.

To make a complete series of tests of dyed fabrics there should be provided the following reagents:—

1. Strong sulphuric acid, as bought. 2. Dilute sulphuric acid, being the strong acid diluted with twenty times its volume of water. 3. Concentrated hydrochloric acid. 4. Dilute hydrochloric acid, 1 acid to 20 water. 5. Concentrated nitric acid. 6. Dilute nitric acid, 1 acid to 20 water. 7. Acetic acid. 8. Caustic soda solution, 5 grams in 100 c.c. water. 9. Ammonia (strong). 10. Dilute ammonia, 1 strong ammonia to 10 water. 11. Carbonate of soda solution, 6 grams in 100 c.c. water. 12. Bleaching powder solution, 2 deg. Tw. 13. Bisulphite of soda, 72 deg. Tw. 14. Stannous chloride, 10 grams crystals in 100 c.c. water, with a little hydrochloric acid. 15. Methylated spirit.

Small swatches of the dyed goods are put in clean porcelain basins, and some of these solutions poured over them. Any change of colour of the cloth is noted, as well as whether any colour is imparted to the solutions. After making observations of the effects in the cold the liquids may be warmed and the results again noted. After being treated with the acids the swatches should be well washed with water, when the original colour may be wholly or partially restored.

To give tables showing the effects of these reagents on the numerous dyes now known would take up too much room and not serve a very useful purpose, as such tables, if too much relied on, leave the operator somewhat uncertain as to what he has before him. The reader will find in Hurst's Dictionary of Coal-tar Colours some useful notes as to the action of acids and alkalies on the various colours that may be of service to him.

Alizarine and the series of dye-stuffs to which it has given its name, fustic, cochineal, logwood and other dyes of a similar class require the fabric to be mordanted, and the presence of such mordant is occasionally an indirect proof of the presence of these dyes.

To detect these mordants, a piece of the swatch should be burnt in a porcelain or platinum crucible over a Bunsen burner, care being taken that all carbonaceous matter be burnt off. A white ash will indicate the presence of alumina mordants, red ash that of iron mordants, and a greenish ash chrome mordants.

To confirm these the following chemical tests may be applied: Boil the ash left in the crucible with a little strong hydrochloric acid and dilute with water. Pass a current of sulphuretted hydrogen gas through the solution; if there be any tin present a brown precipitate of tin sulphide will be obtained. This can be filtered off. The filtrate is boiled for a short time with nitric acid, and ammonia is added to the solution when alumina is thrown down as a white gelatinous precipitate; iron is thrown down as a brown red bulky precipitate; while chrome is thrown down as a greyish-looking gelatinous precipitate. The precipitate obtained with the ammonia is filtered off, and a drop of ammonium sulphide added, when any zinc present will be thrown down as white precipitate of zinc sulphide: to the filtrate from this ammonium oxalate may be added, when if lime is present a white precipitate of calcium oxalate is obtained.

A test for iron is to dissolve some of the ash in a little hydrochloric acid, and add a few drops of potassium ferrocyanide solution, when if any iron be present a blue precipitate will be obtained.

To make more certain of the presence of chrome, heat a little of the ash of the cloth with caustic soda and chlorate of soda in a porcelain crucible until well fused, then dissolve in water, acidify with acetic acid and add lead acetate; a yellow precipitate indicates the presence of chrome.

A book on qualitative chemical analysis should be referred to for further details and tests for metallic mordants.

The fastness of colours to light, air, rubbing, washing, soaping, acids and alkalies is a feature of some considerable importance. There are indeed few colours that will resist all these influences, and such are fully entitled to be called fast. The decree of fastness varies very considerably. Some colours will resist acids and alkalies well, but are not fast to light and air; some will resist washing and soaping, but are not fast to acids; Some may be fast to light, but are not so to washing. The following notes will show how to test these features:—

Fastness to Light and Air.—This is simply tested by hanging a piece of the dyed cloth in the air, keeping a piece in a drawer to refer to, so that the influence on the original colour can be noted from time to time. If the piece is left out in the open one gets not only the effect of light but also that of climate on the colour, and there is no doubt wind, rain, hail and snow have some influence on the fading of the colour.

If the piece is exposed under glass, the climatic influences do not come into play, and one gets the effect of light alone.

In making tests of fastness, the dyer will and does pay due regard to the character of the influences that the material will be subjected to in actual use, and these vary very considerably; thus the colour of underclothing need not be fast to light, for it is rarely subjected to that agent of destruction. On the other hand it must be fast to washing, for that is an operation to which underclothing is subjected week by week.

Window curtains are much exposed to light and air, and, therefore, colours in which they are dyed should be fast to light and air. On the other hand these curtains are rarely washed, and so the colour need not be quite fast to washing. And so with other kinds of fabrics, there are scarcely two kinds which are subjected to the same influences, and require the colours to have the same degree of fastness.

The fastness to rubbing is generally tested by rubbing the dyed cloth on a piece of white paper.

Fastness to Washing.—This is generally tested by boiling a swatch of the cloth in a solution of soap containing 4 grams of a good neutral curd soap per litre for ten minutes and noting the effect—whether the soap solution becomes coloured and to what degree, or whether it remains colourless, and also whether the colour of the swatch has changed at all.

One very important point in connection with the soaping test is whether a colour will run into a white fabric that may be soaped along with it. This is tested by twisting strands of the dyed yarn or cloth with white yarn or cloth and boiling them in the soap liquor for ten minutes and then noting the effect, particularly observing whether the white pieces have taken up any colour.

Fastness to acids and fastness to alkalies is observed while carrying out the various acid and alkali tests given above.



CHAPTER IX.

EXPERIMENTAL DYEING AND COMPARATIVE DYE TESTING.

Every dyer ought to be able to make experiments in the mordanting and dyeing of textile fibres for the purpose of ascertaining the best methods of applying mordants or dye-stuffs, the best methods of obtaining any desired shade, and for the purpose of making comparative tests of dyes or mordanting materials with the object of determining their strength and value. This is not by any means difficult, nor does it involve the use of any expensive apparatus, so that a dyer need not hesitate to set up a small dyeing laboratory for fear of the expense which it might entail.

In order to carry out the work indicated above there will be required several pieces of apparatus. First, a small chemical balance, one that will carry 100 grams in each pan is quite large enough; and such a one, quite accurate enough for this work, can be bought for 25s. to 30s., while if the dyer be too poor even for this, a cheap pair of apothecaries' scales might be used. It is advisable to procure a set of gram weights, and to get accustomed to them, which is not a very difficult task.

In using the balance always put the substance to be weighed on the left-hand pan, and the weights on the right-hand pan. Never put chemicals of any kind direct on the pan, but weigh them in a watch glass, small porcelain basin, or glass beaker, which has first been weighed, according to the nature of the material which is being weighed. The sets of weights are always fitted into a block or box, and every time they are used they should be put back into their proper place.

The experimenter will find it convenient to provide himself with a few small porcelain basins, glass beakers, cubic centimetre measures, two or three 200 c.c. flasks with a mark on the neck, a few pipettes of various sizes, 10 c.c., 20 c.c., 25 c.c.

The most important feature is the dyeing apparatus. Where only a single dye test is to be made, a small copper or enamelled iron saucepan, such as can be bought at any ironmonger's, may be used; this may conveniently be heated by a gas boiling burner, such as can also be bought at an ironmonger's or plumber's for 2s.



It is, however, advisable to have means whereby several dyeing experiments can be made at one time and under precisely the same conditions, and this cannot be done by using the simple means noted above.

To be able to make perfectly comparative dyeing experiments it is best to use porcelain dye-pots—these may be bought from most dealers in chemical apparatus—and to heat them in a water-bath arrangement.

The simplest arrangement is sketched in Fig. 44; it consists of a copper bath measuring 15 inches long by 10-1/2 inches broad and 6-1/2 inches deep—this is covered by a lid in which are six apertures to take the porcelain dye-baths. The bath is heated by two round gas boiling burners of the type already referred to.

The copper bath is filled with water, which, on being heated to the boil by the gas burners, heats up the dye liquids in the dye-pots. The temperature in the dye-pots under such conditions can never reach the boiling point; where it is desirable, as in some cases of wool mordanting and dyeing, that it should boil, there should be added to the water in the copper bath a quantity of calcium chloride, which forms a solution that has a much higher boiling point than that of water, and so the dye liquors in the dye-pots may be heated up to the boil.

An objection might be raised that with such an apparatus the temperature in every part of the bath may not be uniform, and so the temperature of the dye-liquors in the pots may vary also, and differences of temperature often have a considerable influence on the shade of the colour which is being dyed. This is a minor objection, which is more academic in its origin than of practical importance. To obviate this Mr. William Marshall of the Rochdale Technical School has devised a circular form of dye-bath, in which the temperature in every part can be kept quite uniform.

The dyeing laboratories of technical schools and colleges are generally provided with a more elaborate set of dyeing appliances. These, in the latest constructed, consist of a copper bath supported on a hollow pair of trunnions, that the bath can be turned over if needed. Into the bath are firmly fixed three earthenware or porcelain dye-pots; steam for heating can be sent through the trunnions. After the dyeing tests have been made the apparatus can be turned over, and the contents of the dye-pots emptied into a sink which is provided for the purpose.

Many other pieces of apparatus have been devised and made for the purpose of carrying on dyeing experiments on the small scale, but it will not be needful to describe these in detail. After all no more efficient apparatus can be desired than that described above.

Dyeing experiments can be made with either yarns or pieces of cloth—swatches, as they are commonly called—a very convenient size is a small skein of yarn or a piece of cloth having a weight of 5 grams. These test skeins or pieces ought to be well washed in hot water before use, so that they are clean and free from any size or grease. A little soda or soap will facilitate the cleansing process.

In carrying out a dyeing test the dye-pot should be filled with the water required, using as little as can be consistent with the dye swatch being handled comfortably therein, then there is added the required mordants, chemicals, dyes, etc., according to the character of the work which is being done.

Of such chemicals as soda, caustic soda, sodium sulphate (Glauber's salt), tartar, bichromate of potash, it will be found convenient to prepare stock solutions of known strength, say 50 grams per litre, and then by means of a pipette any required quantity can be conveniently added. The same plan might be followed in the case of dyes which are constantly in use, in this case, 5 grams per litre will be found strong enough.

Supposing it is desired to make a test of a sample of direct red, using the following proportions: 2 per cent. dye-stuff, 3 per cent. soda, 15 per cent. Glauber's salt, and the weight of the swatch which is being used is 5 grams. The following calculations are to be made to give the quantities of the ingredients required.

For the dye-stuff:—

5 (weight of swatch) multiplied by 2 (per cent. of dye) and divided by 100 equals—

5 x 2 ———- = 0.1 gram dye 100

For the soda we have similarly:—

5 x 3 ———- = 0.15 gram soda. 100

For the Glauber's salt:—

5 x 15 ———— = 0.75 gram Glauber's salt. 100

These quantities may be weighed out and added to the dye-bath, or if solutions are kept, a calculation can be made as to the number of cubic centimetres which contain the above quantities, and these measured out and added to the dye-bath.

When all is ready, the bath is heated up, the swatch entered, and the work of the test entered upon.

Students are recommended to make experiments on such points as:—

The shades obtained by using various proportions of dye-stuffs.

The influence of various assistants—common salt, soda, Glauber's salt, borax, phosphate of soda—in the bath.

The influence of varying proportions of mordants on the shade of dyeing.

The value of various assistants, tartar, oxalic acid, lactic acid, sulphuric acid, on the fixation of mordants.

The relative value of different tannin matters, etc.

Each dyer should make himself a pattern-book into which he should enter his tests, with full particulars as to how they have been produced at the side.

It is important that a dyer should be able to make comparative dye tests to ascertain the relative strength of any two, or more samples of dyes which may be sent to him. This is not difficult, but requires considerable care in carrying out the various operations involved.

Of each of the samples of dyes 0.5 gram should be weighed out and dissolved in 100 c.c. of water, care being taken that every portion of the dye is dissolved before any of the solution is used in making up the dye-vats. Care should also be taken that the skeins of yarn or swatches of cloth are exactly equal in weight; that the same volume of water is placed in each of the dye-pots; that the same amount of sulphate of soda or other dye assistants are added; that the quantities of dye-stuff and solutions used are equal; in fact, that in all respects the conditions of dyeing are exactly the same, such, in fact, being the vital conditions in making comparative dye tests of the actual dyeing strength of several samples of dyes.

After the swatches have been dyed they are rinsed and then dried, when the depth of shade dyed on them may be compared one with another. To prevent any mistakes, it is well to mark the swatches with one, two, three or more cuts as may be required.

It is easier to ascertain if two dyes are different in strength of colour than to ascertain the relative difference between them. There are two plans available for this purpose—one is a dyeing test, the other is a colorimetric test made with the solutions of the dyes.

Dyeing Test.—This method of ascertaining the relative value of two dyes as regards strength of colour is carried out as follows: A preliminary test will show which is stronger than the other. Then there is prepared a series of dye-vats—one contains a swatch with the deepest of the two dyes, which is taken as the standard; the others, swatches with the other dye, but containing 2, 5 and 10 per cent. more dye-stuff, and all these swatches are dyed together, and after drying a comparison can be made between them and the standard swatch and a judgment formed as to the relative strength of the two dyes. A little experience will soon enable the dyer to form a correct judgment of the difference in strength between two samples of dye-stuff.

Colorimetric Test.—This is based on the principle that the colour of a solution of dye-stuff will be proportionate to its strength. Two white glass tubes equal in diameter are taken. Solutions of the dye-stuff, 0.5 gram in 100 c.c. of water, are prepared, care being taken that the solution is complete. Of one of these solutions 5 c.c. is taken and placed in one of the glass tubes, and 5 c.c. of the other solution is placed in the other glass tube. Of water 25 c.c. is now added to each tube, and then the colour of the diluted liquids is compared by looking through them in a good light. That sample which gives the deeper solution is the stronger in colouring power. By diluting the stronger solution with water until it is of the same depth of colour as the weaker, it may be assumed that the depth of the columns of liquid in the two tubes is in proportion to the relative strength of the two samples. Thus, if in one tube there are 30 c. of liquid and in the other 25 c., then the relative strength is as 30 to 25; and if the first is taken as the standard at 100, a proportion sum gives

30 : 25 : : 100 : 83.3,

that is, the weaker sample has only 83.3 per cent, of the strength of the stronger sample.



INDEX.

COMPILED BY MISS GRACE GREENWOOD, B.A. (LOND.)

A.

Acetate liquor, 190, 193. — of alumina, 170. — of chrome, 180. — of lead, 159.

Acetic acid, 174, 180, 184, 227, 231.

Acid dyes;, 83, 159. — dye-stuffs, topping with, 228. — green, 84, 221, 229, 234. — magenta, 84. 220. — violet, 229. — —6 B, 211, 218. — yellow, 220.

Acids, action of, on cellulose, 9. Acridine orange NO, 231, 232.

Affinity of dye-stuff for fibre, 109.

Albumens, 4.

Algarobilla, 147, 148.

Alizarine, 18, 150, 157, 169, 180, 259. — blue, 173, 174. — —paste, 174. — dyed goods, test of, 258. — dyes, 84. — oil, 170. — orange, 173. 174. — pink, 172. — purple, 172. — red, 171, 248. — violet, 172. — yellow N, 180.

Alkali blue B, 233. — —3 B, 233. — —6 B, 217, 232, 233, 238. — yellow R, 209.

Alkalies, action of, on cotton, 6.

Alkaline blue, 211, 214, 215, 216. — copper solution, 196.

Alpha-naphthol, 130, 132, 133, 186, 187, 188.

Alpha-naphthylamine, 182, 185, 187, 188. — claret, 197.

Alum, 159, 164, 165. 166, 167.

Alumina, 157. — acetate, 179. — mordants, 259.

Amidazol blacks, 79, 121, 179. — black G, 124, 126. — brown, 121. — cachou, 127. — cutch, 126. — drab, 127. — green B, 127. — — Y, 127. — olive, 121.

Amidoazobenzene, 185, 187, 188.

Amido-azo bodies, 183. — compounds, 182.

Amidoazotoluol, 198. — garnet, 198.

Amido bases, diazotisation of, 182. — groups, 130.

Amido-diphenylamine, 183.

Amido-phenylamine, 133.

Amines, 181.

Ammonia, 174, 180. — soda, 173.

Ammoniacal copper, 21.

Ammonium chloride, 180, 207.

Amyloid, 12.

Aniline, 13, 182, 184, 185, 186, 188. — black, 79, 205, 234. — grey B, 229, 231, 333. — hydrochloride, 181. — oil, 206, 207. — salt, 207.

Anisidine, 183.

Anthracene brown, 174.

Anthrapurpurine, 171.

Antimony fluoride, 147.

—— oxalate, 147.

Appretur der Gewebe, 252.

Archil substitute N, 229.

Artificial silk, 15.

Atlas red R, 102.

Auramine, 18, 147, 153.

—— G. 154.

—— I I, 151, 152, 153, 230, 231, 232.

Auroline, 209.

Automatic yarn-dryer, 253.

Azine green, T O, 231.

Azo-acid dyes, 210.

—— yellow, 211.

Azo blue, 85, 211.

—— —— 2 R, 228.

—— compounds, 182.

—— dyes, 18, 129, 159, 181.

—— mauve. 100, 210.

—— —— A M, 99, 106.

—— orseille B B, 229.

—— red A, 211, 214, 215, 216, 217, 223, 229.

—— rubine A, 229.

—— scarlet, 84.

—— violet, 100.

Azophor orange M N, 195.

—— red P N, 139, 141, 193,195.

B.

Barlow kiers, 30, 32.

Barwood, 18, 156, 178.

Basic dyes, 83.

—— —— topping with, 145.

—— dye-stuffs, topping with, 228.

Bast fibre, 2.

Bayer developer, 133.

Beaumont's cop-dyeing machine, 67.

Beige, 167.

Benzo azurine, 101, 107, 112.

—— —— G, 93, 101, 146, 201.

—— —— 3 G, 211.

—— —— R, 210.

—— black blue, 164.

—— blue, 227.

—— —— 3 B, 94.

—— —— black G, 210.

—— —— R W, 115.

—— brown, 92.

—— —— G, 100, 103.

—— —— N B, 100, 103.

—— —— N B X, 101.

—— chrome black blue B, 96, 118.

—— —— brown G, 118.

—— —— —— 5 G, 113.

—— —— —— R, 118.

—— —— —— 2 R, 117.

—— dyes, 18, 85, 208, 225.

—— fast grey, 102.

—— —— scarlet 4 B S, 107.

—— green, B B, 93.

—— —— G, 92, 145.

Benzo-nitrol black B, 142.

—— brown G, 144.

—— dark brown N, 144.

—— developer, 141.

—— dyes, 139.

Benzo olive, 92.

—— orange R, 87, 92.

—— purpurine, 85, 101, 107.

—— —— B, 100, 210.

—— —— 4 B, 87, 89, 210, 217.

—— —— 6 B, 146.

—— —— 10 B, 210, 217.

Beta-naphthol, 130, 131, 132, 184, 186, 187, 188, 189, 191, 196, 235.

Beta-naphthylamine, 182, 185, 187, 188.

—— red, 196.

Bichromate of potash, 164, 165, 166, 167, 177, 179, 181.

—— of soda, 206.

Biebrich orange, 128.

—— scarlet, 128.

Birch's sewing machine, 25.

—— washing machine, 36.

Bismarck brown, 146, 147, 153, 165, 166, 167, 229, 230, 232.

—— —— F F, 231.

Bisulphate of soda, 221, 222, 223.

Black, 104, 120, 121, 122, 123, 124, 137, 138, 139, 142, 144, 166, 214, 215, 217.

—— and blue shot, 222, 223.

—— and crimson shot dyes, 237.

—— and green blue shot, 222.

—— and pink shot, 223.

—— and yellow shot, 223.

—— blue, 116.

—— brown, 102, 103, 118, 136, 138.

—— dyeing of, 234.

—— iron liquor, 165.

Bleaching of cotton, 24. — of fine fabrics, 42. — of yarn, 43.

Blue, 96, 97, 98, 115, 125, 126, 130, 136, 145, 146, 155. — and gold shot dyes, 237. — and gold yellow shot, 222. — and orange shot, 224. — black, 136, 137, 138, 139, 154, 216, 219. — developer A, 130. — — AN, 134. — green, 114. — grey, 105.

Bluestone, 164, 165, 166, 178.

Bluish claret red, 187. — rose, 153.

Borax, 86, 180, 221.

Brazil wood, 84, 156, 178, 179.

Bridson's washing machine, 36.

Bright blue, 95, 97, 98, 145, 151, 215, 217, 230. — crimson, 232. — grass green, 93. — green, 146, 151. — grey, 106. — navy, 115, 116. — olive yellow, 232. — orange, 92. — pea green, 94. — pink, 90. — red, 87, 145. — —lilac, 99. — rose, 230. — scarlet, 89, 130, 186. — sea green, 151. — straw, 90. — violet, 231. — walnut, 143. — yellow, 90, 143, 154, 213, 214, 215, 229.

Brilliant azurine B, 146. — —5 G, 97, 211. — cochineal 4 R, 222. — Congo R, 210. — croceine, 229. — — 3 B, 237. — green, 145, 146, 147, 151, 154, 229, 231, 232, 233. — milling green B, 211. — orange, 92. — — G, 103, 218, 232. — orseille C, 229. — purpurine, 87. — — R, 210. — red, 88. — rhoduline red B, 151. — scarlet, 211, 229. — — G, 211 — violet, 231. — yellow, 230.

Bronze green, 114, 217. — grey, 106.

Brown, 101, 103, 117, 120, 127, 128, 130, 144, 164, 174, 180, 218, 232. — and blue shot dyes, 222, 238. — and violet shot, 223. — drab, 100.

Brownish orange, 186.

Buff brown, 102, 118, 126, 135. — yellow, 91.

C.

Cachou de laval, 100, 121.

Camwood, 156, 178.

Capri blue, 230. — green, 229. — — 2 G, 231.

Carbonate of soda, 168, 209, — of soda lye, 168.

Carbonising of woollen goods, 12.

Catechu, 187. — brown, 112. — — F K, 117. — — G K, 117.

Caustic soda, 180. — — liquor, 189. — — lye, 196.

Cellulose, 5, 6. — di-nitrate, 14, 15. — hexa-nitrate, 14. — penta-nitrate, 14. — tetra-nitrate, 14.

Ceruleine, 180.

Chalk, 180, 181.

Chardonnet's process for making silk, 15.

Chemical reagents, action of, 257.

Chemicing of cotton, 36.

Chemistry of cotton fibre, 1.

Chestnut, 100, 104, 118, 142, 219.

Chicago blue, 112, 227. — — B, 115, 210. — — 4 B, 116, 210. — — 6 B, 95, 97, 114, 116, 146, 210, 217, 232, 233. — — R, 210.

Chicago blue G, 210.

—— —— 4 R, 99, 100.

—— —— R W, 114, 115, 119.

—— dyes, 85.

Chloramine yellow, 209.

Chloride of copper, 180.

—— of lime, 37.

—— of soda, 207.

Chlorophenine orange R, 91.

Chocolate brown, 102, 143, 155, 172.

Chromanil black R F, 120.

—— —— 4 R F, 119.

—— brown 2 G, 119.

Chrome, 157.

Chrome-logwood black, 177.

Chrome mordants, 259.

Chromic acid, 17.

Chromine G, 209.

Chromium chloride, 173.

—— fluoride, 112.

—— mordant, 173.

Chrysamine, 85, 92, 101, 210.

—— G, 91, 93, 113, 114, 146.

—— R, 92.

Chrysoidine, 147, 151, 164, 221, 232, 233.

—— R, 232.

Chrysophenine, 90, 100, 210, 217, 233.

—— G, 114, 119, 232.

Ciliary fibres, 1.

Claret, 89, 146.

—— red, 174.

Clayton yellow, 210.

Cloth-dyeing machine, 76.

Cloth scarlet, 160.

——-washing machine, illustration of, 245, 246, 247.

Cochineal, 156, 259.

Coffee brown, 165.

Collodion, 15.

Colorimetric test for relative value of dyes, 268.

Colouring matter, 3.

—— principle of dye-stuff, 156.

Colour lake, 18.

—— lakes, 156.

Columbia black B, 210, 232.

—— —— F B, 103, 104, 210, 218.

—— —— F B B, 105.

—— —— R, 232, 233.

—— blue G, 224.

—— green, 101, 146.

Columbia orange R, 91, 103, 104.

—— red S, 211.

—— yellow, 91, 115, 209.

Comparative dye testing, 262.

Condensed water, 227.

Congo blue 2 B, 95.

—— brown, 210.

—— —— G, 210, 217, 218.

—— Corinth, 232.

—— —— B, 99, 209, 211.

—— —— G. 89, 211, 217, 224.

—— dyes, 18, 85, 208, 225.

—— orange G, 210.

—— —— R, 92, 210.

—— R, 210.

—— red, 85, 107, 128.

—— rubine, 89.

Continuous dyeing machine, 79.

Cop dyeing, 64.

Cop-dyeing machine, Beaumont's, 67.

—— —— Graemiger, 65, 66.

—— —— Mommer's, 69.

—— —— Young & Crippin, 68.

Copper acetate, 177.

—— logwood black, 177.

—— nitrate, 177.

—— soda solution, 180.

—— sulphate, 112, 164, 166, 177, 181.

Copperas, 147, 164, 165, 166, 167, 172, 175, 178, 181, 200.

Cornflower blue, 218, 233.

Corron's hank-dyeing machine, 63.

Cotton bleaching, 23.

—— brown A, 231.

—— —— 91, 100, 101, 103, 106, 132, 137, 138, 144, 228.

—— dyeing, 18.

—— fibre, 2.

—— —— illustration of, 5.

—— —— impurities of, 3.

—— —— structure of, 4.

—— —— structure and chemistry of, 1.

—— fibres, composition of, 5.

—— —— production of colour direct on, 181.

—— scouring, 23.

Cotton-silk fabrics, dyeing of, 225.

Cotton wax, 3.

—— yellow, 100, 210.

Coupling process, 139.

Cream, 91.

Cresyl blue, 229. — fast violet 2 RN, 232. — violet, 229.

Crimson, 130, 135, 151, 155, 217, 219, 230. — red, 88, 130.

Croceine AZ, 223. — orange, 128, 211. — scarlet, 128, 160.

Cross-dye black, 79, 107, 121. — — B, 123. — — 2B, 120. — drab, 93, 121, 126.

Cross dyeing, 220.

Curcumeine, extra, 211, 218, 224.

Curcumine, 209, 217. — S, 103, 104, 223.

Curcuphenine, 90.

Cutch, 147, 156, 164, 165, 166, 167, 178, 181, 186.

Cuticle fibres, 1.

Cyanole extra, 221, 222, 223, 229, 231, 232, 233, 237.

D.

Damages in bleached goods, 50.

Dark blue, 95, 96, 97, 98, 115, 116, 136, 139, 142, 153, 154, 155, 215, 216, 217, 218, 219. — — and green shot dyes, 237. — — and olive shot dyes, 238. — bronze, 115. — brown, 180, 214, 216, 217, 218, 219, 230, 231. — — and blue shot, 222. — — olive, 165, 166. — chestnut, 104. — — brown, 101, 103, 117, 119. — cream, 231. — crimson, 136, 231. — drab, 102, 126, 233. — green, 93, 94, 113, 115, 127, 142, 144, 146, 151, 153, 214, 217, 219, 230. — grey, 119, 120, 154, 215, 218, 232. — lilac, 146. — maroon, 89, 135. — navy, 95, 97, 98, 115, 126, 137. — olive, 92, 127, 164. — — brown, 118. — orange, 91. — plum, 87, 99, 116, 138, 166. — red, 88, 113. — Russian green, 232. — sage, 127, 216. — scarlet, 153, 155. — sea green, 94, 214, 232. — slate, 106, 214. — stone, 214. — turquoise blue, 116. — violet, 156. — walnut, 216. — — brown, 103. — yellow, 90.

"Dead" cotton fibres, 4.

Deep black, 104. — blue, 97, 126. — brown, 104, 118, 231. — chestnut brown, 102, 136. — crimson, 89, 232. — green, 94. — leaf green, 233. — olive brown, 180. — orange, 92, 135, 214, 230. — — yellow, 230. — pink, 88. — rose, 230, 233.

Delahunty's dyeing machine, 57, 58.

Delta purpurine, 107. — — 5 B, 210.

Developing, 131. —machine for paranitroaniline red, 194.

Diamine azo blue, 2 B, 233. — — — R, 145. — — — 2 R, 237, 238. — — — RR, 136, 137. — black B, 227, 232. — — B H. 104, 106, 118, 136, 137, 138, 210, 215, 216, 237. — — B O, 92, 100, 139, 210. — — H W, 92, 93, 94, 95, 97, 102, 103, 104, 130, 132, 209, 214, 215, 228, 230, 231, 233. — — R O, 87, 92, 93, 95, 100, 101, 104, 106, 138, 139, 146, 210, 228. — blue, 112. 132. — — 2 B, 210. — — 3 B, 92, 98, 210, 227. — — B B, 227. — — B G, 96, 210, 228. — — B X, 102, 209, 210, 228. — — C B, 228. — — G, 209.

Diamine blue 3 R, 95, 100, 115, 116, 117, 119, 210, 228. — — R W, 95, 98, 113, 114, 117, 120, 209, 210, 228, 230. — — black E, 97, 210, 228. — — — R, 102. — Bordeaux, 87. — — B, 89, 210, 215, 216, 228. — — S, 210, 228, 231, 233. — brilliant blue G, 96, 99, 115, 145, 210, 215, 216, 223, 227. — bronze G, 91, 93, 100, 106, 114, 115, 118, 139, 144, 210, 214, 228, 231, 232, 233. — brown, 112, 132. — — B, 209, 228. — — G, 104, 119, 209, 210. — — 3 G, 209, 228, 230. — — M, 90, 95, 102, 104, 118, 119, 138, 216, 217, 228, 231, 232. — — N, 209, 217, 231, 233. — — S, 210. — — V, 92, 98, 138, 143, 144, 210, 228, 233. — — Y, 92. — catechine B, 101, 102, 103, 114, 117, 210, 216. — — G, 89, 94, 101, 102, 103, 113, 117, 209, 210. — colours, 227. — cutch, 130, 132, 136, 137, 138. — dark blue B, 114, 116, 118, 120, 209, 210, 216, 217, 228, 231, 233. — — green N, 93. — deep black Cr, 96. — — — RB, 104. — dyes, 18, 85, 208, 225. — fast red, F, 87, 89, 90, 113, 118, 209, 228, 230. — — yellow A, 90, 92, 114, 115, 116, 136, 137, 143, 144, 210, 213, 223, 227, 232, 233, 235, 237, 238. — — — B, 89, 91, 92, 94, 97, 98, 113, 114, 117, 118, 119, 120, 138, 209, 214, 215, 216, 223, 228, 231, 232. — gold, 100, 210, 213, 228, 230, 231, 232. — green B, 93, 97, 115, 146, 209, 214, 228, 230, 235. — — G, 94, 209, 210, 228. — grey G, 106, 143, 228, 232. — jet black, 139. — — — Cr, 105, 118, 120, 121. — — — O O, 144. — — — R B, 105, 120. — new blue R, 98, 116, 120, 210. — nitrazol black B, 143, 144. — — brown B, 143, 210. — — — G, 143, 210. — — dye, 139. — orange, 132. — — B, 89, 92, 114, 117, 118, 119, 120, 209, 215, 216, 217, 228, 230. — — D, 210. — — D C, 223, 227, 231, 233, 237, 238. — — F, 209. — — G, 91, 102, 210, 214, 215, 221, 222, 231. — — G D, 104. — — G G, 227, 233. — red, 107. — — B, 210. — — 4 B, 209. — — 5 B, 88, 89, 103, 209, 215, 228. — — 6 B, 209. — — 10 B, 88, 89, 146, 209, 230. — — N, 87. — — N O, 210. — rose, 223. — — B D, 88, 209, 215, 228, 230, 233. — — G D, 99. — scarlet, 107. — — B, 91, 106, 210, 215, 228. — — 3 B, 88, 210, 228. — — H S, 230. — — S, 228. — sky blue, 94, 97, 98, 145, 210, 215, 222, 237, 238. — — — F F, 94, 96, 98, 114, 115, 210, 222, 223, 227, 232. — steel blue L, 96, 210, 214, 222, 228. — violet N, 87, 99, 100, 145, 146, 210, 223, 228, 231, 238. — yellow, 92. — yellow N, 90, 92, 93, 100, 113, 228, 230.

Diamineral blue R, 95, 116, 227, 238.

Diaminogene, 234, 235. — B, 138, 228, 234, 235. — blue B B, 136, 138. — extra, 143, 228, 234, 235.

Dianil black C R, 97, 119, 142. — — N, 118, 120, 121. — blue B, 94, 97, 98, 116, 142. — — G, 98, 113. — — 2 K, 94. — — 4 R, 99, 116. — brown B D, 119, 142. — — G 0, 142. — — 3 G O, 103, 118, 119, 142, 143. — — R, 102, 103, 118, 119, 142. — — T, 102. — claret B, 89, 99, 145. — — G, 89. — dark blue R, 94, 95, 97, 116, 142, 143. — — — 3 R, 97, 142. — — brown, 103. — olive, 93. — orange G, 89, 92. — — 2 R, 92. — red 4 B, 89, 145. — scarlet G, 145. — yellow, 94. — — G, 91, 98. — — 3 G, 91, 94, 113. — — R, 94, 113. — — 2 R, 91.

Dianisidine blue, 197.

Diazo-benzene chloride, 181.

Diazo black. 132, 139. — blue, 132. — brown, 130, 139. — compounds, 181. — liquor, 190.

Diazotisation, 129. — of amido bases, 182.

Diazotised paranitroaniline, 140.

Dictionary of Coal-tar Colours, 259.

Dinitroso-resorcine, 179.

Diphenyl brown B N, 103.

Direct deep black E extra, 104.

Direct dyeing, 85. — dyes, 83. — — fastness of, 106. — fast brown B, 144. — indigo blue, 98. — orange R, 210. — red, test of, 265. — triamine black G X, 104. — yellow G, 90, 106, 210.

Divi-divi, 147, 148, 239.

Drab, 93, 165, 216, 218, 219, 231.

Drying cylinders, 255. — of dyed goods, 249.

Dull lilac, 99. — violet, 100.

Dye-beck, 77.

Dye-house washing machine, 244, 246.

Dyeing apparatus, 263. — of basic dyes, 149. — machinery, 53, 57. — on metallic mordants, 156. — test for relative value of dyes, 267.

Dye-jigger, 72, 73.

Dyers' bleach, 24.

Dye-tank, illustration of, 54.

Dye-tub, illustration of, 54.

Dye-vat, section of, 56.

E.

Eboli blue B, 231. — green T, 230.

Emerald tint, 154.

Eosine, 84, 229.

Eosines, dyeing with, 158, 159.

Erie blue B X, 97. — — 2 G, 210.

Erika B, 87. — B N, 99, 100, 210, 224.

Erythrosine, 229. — B, 238.

Erythrosines, 160.

Experimental dye-bath, 263. — dyeing, 262.

F.

Farmer's washing machine, 36.

Fast acid green, 229. — — — B N, 222. — blue developer A D, 133. — brown, 164. — neutral violet B, 154, — yellow S, 223, 237, 238.

Fastness of colours, 260. — of colours to light and air, 260 — of colours to rubbing, 261. — of colours to washing, 261. — of direct dyes, 106.

Fatty acids, 3.

Fawn, 165. — brown, 167. — drab, 100, 216.

Fiery yellowish red, 186.

First green liquor, 168.

Fixation, 149. — with couplers, 139. — — developers, 128. — — metallic salts, 112.

Flavo-purpurine, 171.

Formyl blue B, 211. — violet, 84, 229, 233. — — 6 B, 211. — — 10 B, 211. — — S 4 B, 211, 214, 215, 216, 222, 231, 237, 238.

Full blue, 43, 97. — yellow orange, 186.

Furnival's Square beater, 30.

Fustic, 156, 157, 166, 178, 259. — extract, 164, 165, 166, 167, 175, 176, 181.

G.

Gallipoli oil, 168.

Galls, 147, 148.

Gambier, 147.

Glauber's salt, 83, 108, 111, 209, 214, 215, 221, 222, 223, 225, 231, 234, 237.

Glycerine, 180.

Gold and green shot dyes, 221. — brown, 100, 101, 102, 103, 138, 142, 143, 153, 216, 230. — — and blue shot, 222. — drab, 232. — orange, 214. — yellow, 91, 113, 130, 142, 230.

Good yellow, 213.

Graemiger cop-dyeing machine, 65, 66.

Grass green, 93.

Green, 92, 93, 94, 114, 130, 143, 145, 151, 180, 215. — and buff shot, 223. — and claret shot, 222. — and pink shot dyes, 238. — and orange shot, 224. — and red shot, 223, 224. — blue, 98. — grey, 106, 120. — olive, 92. — yellow, 91.

Greening operation, 168.

Grey, 106, 120, 153, 219. — and orange shot, 223. — blue, 96. — lilac, 99, 153. — slate, 166. — sour operation, 32.

Grothe, 252.

Ground fustic, 166.

Guinea green B, 211, 218, 224. — violet B, 224. — — 4 B, 211, 218.

Gum tragacanth, 192.

Gun cotton, 13.

H.

Half-silk fabrics, dyeing of, 225.

Hand dyeing, 53.

Hank bleaching, 45.

Hank-dyeing machine. Corron's, 63. — — Klauder-Weldon's, 61, 62.

Hank-wringing machines, 241.

Havanna brown, 166.

Hawking machine, Holliday's, 78.

Hawthorne's washing machine, 36.

Heliotrope, 99, 233. — B B, 90, 146. — 2 B, 99, 233.

Hessian brown 2 M, 98. — — 2 B N, 100, 231. — grey S, 231. — purple N, 230. — violet, 211.

Hoffman violet, 152.

Holliday, 182.

Holliday's hawking machine, 78. — yarn-dyeing machine, 60.

Hurst's Silk Dyeing, 225.

Hydrocellulose, 12.

Hydrochloric acid, 177, 183, 184, 190. — — action of, 11.

Hydro-extractors, 251, 252.

Hydrosulphite indigo vat, 204.

I.

Immedial black, 107, 121. — blacks, 79. — blue, 121. — — C, 125.

Immedial bronze A, 128. — — B, 128. — brown, 121.

Impregnation with dye-stuff solution, 198.

Indamine blue N, 154.

Indazine, 229.

Indian yellow G, 211, 213, 214, 216, 217, 222, 229, 231. — — R, 211, 213, 214, 229, 231, 232.

Indigo, 18, 20, 198. — blue, 152, 154. — — N, 229, 233. — — S G N, 229. — carmine, 165. — dyed goods, test of, 258. — dyeing, 199. — dye-vat for cloth, 199. — extract, 84, 167. — white, 200.

Indigotin, 198.

Indophenol, 205.

Induline, 229.

Irisamine G, 152, 153.

Iron, 157. — liquor, 172, 175, 176, 180. — mordants, 259. — stains, 50. — sulphate, 112.

J.

Janus black I, 219. — — II, 219. — blue G, 155. — — R, 155, 219. — brown B, 156, 219. — — R, 219, 220. — claret red B, 156, 219. — dark blue B, 219. — dyes, 155, 218. — green B, 155, 219, 220. — grey B, 156. — — BB, 219, 220. — red B, 155, 219. — yellow G, 219. — — R, 155, 156, 219, 220.

Jet black, 121.

Jigger, 72.

Jig-wince, 74, 75.

K.

Katigen black, 121. — brown, 107, 121. — dark brown, 128. — green, 121. — olive G, 127.

Khaki, 180. — shades, 248.

Kiers, 30.

Klauder-Weldon hank-dyeing machine, 61, 62.

L.

Lanacyl blue B B, 211. — violet B, 211, 217.

Leaf green, 94, 113, 114, 231.

Lehner's process for making silk, 15.

Lemon yellow, 91.

Leuco, 198.

Light blue, 115, 138. — brown, 101, 103, 117. — chestnut brown, 137. — green, 114, 143. — grey, 106. — indigo blue, 96. — plum, 99. — sage brown, 118. — seal brown, 102. — slate, 106.

Lilac, 98, 99. — red, 87. — rose, 233.

Lima wood, 178, 179.

Lime, 169, 202. — and copperas vat for indigo dyeing, 200. — boil for cotton, 28. — sour operation, 32.

Logwood, 18, 84, 156, 157, 165, 167, 234, 259. — black, 79, 174. — — dyeing on yarn in hanks, 175. — decoction, 177. — dyed goods, test of, 258. — extract, 164, 175, 176, 181. — greys, 178.

Loose wool and cotton, washing of, 244.

Lye boil operation. 34.

M.

Machinery for dyeing, 53, 57.

Madder, 157. — bleach, 24.

Magenta, 18, 147, 153, 229, 231, 232, 233.

Malachite green, 146, 152, 153, 229, 232.

Mandarine G, 211, 217, 218, 224.

Market bleach, 24, 38, 39.

Maroon, 89, 138, 153, 215, 233.

Mather & Platt's apparatus, 207. — — bleaching kier, 30, 31. — — machine, 246. — — washing machine, 36. — — yarn-bleaching kier, 49.

Mercerisation of cotton, 8.

Mercerised cotton fibres, illustrations of, 7, 9.

Mercer, John, 8, 21.

Metallic mordants, 156.

Metanitroaniline, 185, 186, 187, 188. — orange, 195.

Metaphenylene blue, 229. — — B, 154, 233.

Methylene blue, 17. — — B B, 153. — — 2 B, 153. — — N, 232. — grey B F, 153.

Methylindone B, 229, 231. — R, 229.

Methyl violet, 18, 229. — — B, 146, 151, 231. — — 2 B, 146. — — R, 146. — — 3R, 146. — — 4R, 152.

Mikado brown, 227. — — 2 B, 238. — — 3 G O, 230. — — M, 103, 230, 232. — dyes, 18. — golden yellow 8 G, 230, 231. — orange, 227. — — G, 91. — — 4 R, 91, 102. — — R O, 232. — — 3 R O, 231. — — 4 R O, 218, 224. — — 5 R O, 230, 238. — yellow, 227. — — G, 230.

Milk of lime, 28, 175.

Milling orange, 229. — yellow, 229.

Mimosa, 209.

Mixed cotton and wool fabrics, dyeing of, 208.

Mommer's cop-dyeing machine, 69.

Mordant dyes, 84.

Mordants, 156. — detection of, 259.

Moss brown, 143, 232.

Muslin bleaching, 41.

Myrabolam, 147, 148, 239. — extract, 175, 176.

N.

Naphthol, 184.

— -azo-benzene, 181. — black, 128. — — B, 223. — — 3 B, 222. — blue black, 211, 214, 215, 216, 217, 222, 234. — — G, 211, 222. — — R, 211. — colours, 182. — D, 192. — X, 192. — yellow S, 229, 238, 278.

Naphthylamine, 13, 132, 133, 184. — black, 235. — — 4 B, 211. — — 6 B, 211, 217. — — D, 211. — ether, 130.

Naphtindone B B, 153.

Navy, 97, 98, 154. — blue, 96, 214, 216, 217.

Neutral grey, 132. — — G, 99, 106. — violet, 229.

New blue D, 229. — methylene blue, 234, 235. — — — G G, 238. — — — M, 232. — — — N, 126, 145, 154, 229, 231, 233. — — — N X, 154. — — — R, 153, 154, 233. — — — 3 R, 145, 153. — — grey B, 153. — — — G, 154. — phosphine G. 153, 154, 229, 232. — Victoria blue B, 146, 151, 152.

Nigraniline, 206.

Nigrosine, 229.

Nitrate of copper, 177. — of iron, 166, 175.

Nitrazol C, 139, 141, 193.

Nitric acid, action of, on cotton, 12.

Nitrite of soda, 183.

Nitro-aniline, 183.

Nitro-benzene, 13.

Nitro-naphthalene, 13.

Nitro-para-toluidine, 185, 187, 188.

Nitrosamine, 193. — red, 195.

Nitroso-resorcine, 18.

Nitrous acid, 184.

Nut brown, 103, 118, 119, 218, 219.

O.

Oak bark, 147.

Obermaier machine, 57, 59.

Oil stains, 50.

Old gold, 90, 232.

Olive, 92, 93, 127, 143, 164. — and blue shot dyes, 238. — brown, 143, 154. — green, 114, 142, 144, 153. — oil, 170. — yellow, 91.

Orange, 84, 91, 113, 130, 137, 151, 153, 154, 155, 215, 217. — and blue shot, 224, 238. — and violet shot, 223, 238. — brown, 102. — E N Z, 211, 214, 217, 222. — extra, 211, 223, 232. — G G, 221, 222, 231, 232, 233, 238. — T A, 218. — yellow, 143, 186.

Orthoamidoazotoluol, 186, 187, 188.

Orthonitrotoluidine, 196.

Oxidising agents, action of, on cotton, 16.

Oxycellulose, 16.

Oxydiamine black A, 97, 105, 209. — — B M, 209, 215, 216, 217. — — D, 209, 228, 233, 234. — — M, 209. — — N, 91, 97. — — N R, 105. — — S O O O, 210, 228, 231, 233. — orange G, 104, 209. — — R, 92, 104, 143, 144, 209. — red S, 209. — violet B, 99, 100, 210, 214, 228, 230, 231, 233. — — G, 99, 100. — yellow G G, 94, 146, 209.

Oxydianil yellow, 143.

Oxymuriate of tin, 166.

Oxyphenine, 91, 102, 209.

P.

Padding machine, 80, 81, 193, 221.

Pale blue, 95, 97. — brown, 102, 119, 122, 128, 164, 180. — chamois, 166. — chestnut, 143. — drab, 233. — fawn brown, 119, 130. — — red, 89. — gold yellow, 213. — green, 94, 151. — greenish grey, 120. — leaf green, 113. — lilac, 99. — nut brown, 102. — olive brown, 100. — — green, 113. — orange, 91, 92, 135. — sage, 144. — — green, 217. — salmon, 87. — sea green, 127, 232. — sky blue, 95. — walnut brown, 104.

Palm oil soap, 169.

Paramine blue B, 96. — — black S, 96. — brown C, 117. — — G, 101. — indigo blue, 96. — navy blue R, 96.

Paranitroaniline, 185, 186, 187, 188, 190. — brown, 196. — red, 186, 188, 189. — — dyed cotton, 196. — — dye-tub, 191. — — on piece goods, 192. — — on yarn, 189. — — with azophor red P N, 195. — — with nitrazol C, 195.

Paratoluidine, 186, 187, 188.

Parchment paper, 11.

Paris violet, 152.

Patent blue, 84.

Peach wood, 178.

Peacock green, 214, 216.

Pea green, 114, 233.

Pectic acid, 3.

Permanganate of potash, 17.

Persian berries, 156, 178, 179.

Phenetidine, 183.

Phenol, 130, 132, 133, 181.

Phenylene diamine, 130, 132, 134, 235, 237.

Phosphate of soda, 86, 90, 91, 168, 170, 180, 225.

Piece-dyeing machines, 71.

Piece goods, drying of, 256. — — washing of, 244. — — wringing of, 241.

Pink, 87, 88, 89, 152, 215.

Plate singeing, 27.

Plum, 99, 145, 146, 215.

Pluto black B, 108, 144.

Ponceau B, 164. — 3 R B, 211, 217.

Potash, 86.

Primrose, 91, 154.

Primuline, 130, 131, 132, 135, 136, 138, 142, 143, 144, 209.

Production of colour direct on cotton fibres, 181.

Prussiate black, 207.

Pure blue, 238. — soluble blue, 237.

Purple brown, 100.

Purpuramine, D H, 107.

Pyrolignite of iron, 172.

Pyroxyline, 13.

Q.

Quercitron, 156, 178, 179. — bark, 178. — extract, 164, 165.

Quicklime, 200.

R.

Rayer & Lincoln machine, 26.

Read Holliday's squeezing machine, 241.

Red, 136, 187. — brown, 100, 135. — chocolate, 119. — developer C, 192. — drab, 165. — lilac, 100. — liquor, 165, 166, 169, 170, 176, — orange, 91. — plum, 117, 214. — violet, 99, 116, 152, 155, 156.

Reddish brown, 102. — puce, 187.

Reseda, 93. — green, 167.

Resin boil, 35. — soap liquor, 35.

Resorcine, 130, 132, 133, 235. — green, 156.

Rhodamine, 229, 231. — B, 153, 233. — G, 152. — 6 G, 152. — S, 237.

Rhoduline violet, 151.

Rocceleine, 211.

Roller squeezing machines for yarn, 241.

Rose azurine B, 87. — G, 87, 90. — bengale, 229. — lilac, 145, 151. — pink, 87. — red, 88, 89.

Rosophenine, 5 B, 88.

Russia green, 92, 113, 143, 153.

S.

Safranine, 18, 146, 153, 221, 229, 231, 233. — G, 146. — prima, 153. — S, 155.

Sage, 214. — brown, 104, 119, 135, 144, 218. — green, 93, 180, 230.

St. Dennis black, 121.

Saline salts, quantity used, 108.

Salmon, 89.

Salt, 165.

Satin fabrics, dyeing of, 225.

Scarlet, 88, 89, 135, 145, 146, 152, 153, 155, 215, 217, 230. — R, 220.

Schaeffer's acid, 134.

Scouring cotton, 23.

Sea green, 94, 151.

Seal brown, 146.

Seed hairs, 1.

Shot effects, 220. — on satin, dyeing of, 235. — with black cotton warp, 236.

Silver grey, 106.

Singeing of cotton, 27. — wash of cotton, 28.

Sky blue, 95, 98, 151, 215.

Slate, 106, 218, 231, 233. — blue, 97, 120, 152, 216. — green, 218.

Sliver dyeing, 58.

Slubbing dyeing, 58.

Soap, 165. — effect on dye-stuffs, 226.

Soaping of dyed goods, 247.

Soda, 86, 132, 178. — ash, 34, 166. — crystals, 169. — lye, 202, 235. — zinc vat for indigo dyeing, 204.

Sodium acetate, 196. — bichromate, 164. — nitrite solution, 196, 198. — stannate, preparing with, 158.

Solid blue, 229. — green, 229. — O, 179, 180.

Solidogen A, 145.

Soluble blue, 150, 160, 229.

Spencer's hank-wringing machine, 241.

Squeezing rollers, 240.

Stains in bleached goods, 50.

Steam aniline black, 207. — — blacks, 248.

Steaming and ageing chamber, 250. — cottage, illustration of, 249. — of dyed goods, 248.

Stearic acid, 3.

Stitching of cotton, 25.

Stone, 218.

Structure of cotton fibre, 1.

Sulfaniline black, 121. — — G, 124. — brown, 121. — — 4 B, 127.

Sulphate of copper, 177. — of iron, 167.

Sulphonates, 182.

Sulphon azurine B, 210, 217, 218. — D, 93.

Sulphur colours, 121.

Sulphuric acid, 166. — action of, on cotton, 10.

Sulphyl colours, 121.

Sumac, 83, 147, 148, 165, 166, 167, 172, 173, 178, 239. — extract, 169, 175, 219, 220.

Sun yellow, 90.

T.

Tannic acid, 18, 20, 83, 147, 172. — mordant, dyeing on, 147.

Tannin, 173, 174, 236. — grounding, 173. — heliotrope, 145, 153, 229. — orange R, 154, 155, 229.

Tanning, 148.

Tartar emetic, 147, 192, 219, 220.

Tartaric acid, 180.

Temperature of dye-baths, 226.

Terra-cotta brown, 143. — red, 90, 143.

Testing of the colour of dyed fabrics, 257.

Thiazole yellow, 93, 94, 209.

Thiocarmine R, 84, 211, 214.

Thioflavine S, 94, 104, 106, 209, 213, 215, 222, 223, 228, 229. — T, 153, 154, 229, 231, 232.

Tin crystals, 147, 169, 179. — oxide, fixing, 158.

Titan blue, 210, 211. — — 3 B, 93, 102, 164. — — R, 102. — brown O, 210. — — P, 164. — — R, 102, 210. — — Y, 161, 210. — colours, 227. — como G, 95. — — S N, 98. — dyes, 18, 85. — gold, 101, 102. — ingrain blue, 135, 136, 142. — marine blue, 211. — navy R, 98. — orange, 88. — — N, 95. — pink, 210. — red, 107. — scarlet C, 88. — — D, 88. — — S, 209. — yellow, 210. — — G, 145. — — G G, 90.