But to determine the amount of sugar and acids contained in the must we need a few necessary implements. These are:

THE MUST SCALE OR SACCHAROMETER.

The most suitable one now in use is the Oechsle's must scale, constructed on the principle that the instrument sinks the deeper into any fluid, the thinner it is, or the less sugar it contains. Fig. 32 shows this instrument, "which is generally made of silver, or German silver, although they are also made of glass. A, represents a hollow cylinder—best made of glass, filled with must to the brim, into which place the must scale B. It is composed of the hollow float a, which keeps it suspended in the fluid; of the weight c, for holding in a perpendicular position; and of the scale e divided by small lines into from fifty to one hundred degrees. Before the gauge is placed in the must, draw it several times through the mouth, to moisten it—but allow no saliva to adhere to it. When the guage ceases to descend, note the degree to which it has sunk; after which press it down with the finger a few degrees further, and on its standing still again, the line to which the must reaches, indicates its so-called weight, expressed by degrees." The must should be weighed in an entirely fresh state, before it shows any sign of fermentation, and should be free from husks, and pure.

This instrument, which is indispensable to every one who intends to make wine, can be obtained in nearly every large town, from the prominent opticians. JACOB BLATTNER, at St. Louis keeps them for sale.

The saccharometer will indicate the amount of sugar in the must, and its use is so simple, that every one can soon become familiar with it. The next step in the improvement of wines was to determine the amount of acids the must contained, and this problem has also been successfully solved by the invention of the acidimeter:

THE ACIDIMETER AND ITS USE.

"The first instrument of this kind which came into general use, was one invented by DR. OTTO, and consists of a glass tube, from ten to twelve inches in length, half an inch in width, and closed at the lower end. Fig. 33 shows OTTO'S Acidimeter.

"The tube is filled to the partition line a, with tincture of litmus. The must to be examined, before it has begun to ferment is then poured into the tube, until it reaches the line 0. The blue tincture of litmus, which would still be blue, if water had been added, is turned into rose-color by the action of the acids contained in the must.

"If a solution of 1,369 per cent, of caustic ammonia is added to this red fluid, and the tube is turned around to effect the necessary mixture, keeping its mouth closed with the thumb, after the addition of more or less of the ammonical fluid, it will change into violet. This tinge indicates the saturation of the acids, and the height of the fluid in the tube now shows the quantity of acid in the must, by whole, half and fourth parts per cent. The lines marked 1, 2, 3, 4, indicate whole per cents.; the short intermediate lines, one-fourth per cents."



When DR. GALL, shortly before the vintage of 1850, first publicly recommended the dilution of the acids, he was obliged to refer to this instrument, as already known, and everywhere at hand, which was at the same time cheap, and simple in its use. "It is true, however, that if must is examined by this instrument, the quantity of acids contained in it, is really somewhat larger than indicated by the instrument; because the acids contained in the must require for their saturation a weaker solution of ammonia than acetic acid." As however, OTTO'S acidimeter shows about one eighth of the acids less than the must actually contains, and about as much acids combined with earths is removed during fermentation, DR. GALL recommends that the quantity of acids be reduced to 6-1/2, or at most 7 thousandths of OTTO'S acidimeter, and the results have shown that this was about the right proportion; as the wines in which the acids were thus diluted were in favor with all consumers.

"The acidimeter referred to was afterwards improved, by making the tube longer and more narrow, and dividing it into tenths of per cents, instead of fourths; thus dividing the whole above 0 into thousandths. But although by this improved acidimeter the quantity of acids could be ascertained with more nicety, there remained one defect, that in often turning the glass tube for mixing the fluids, some of the contents adhered to the thumb in closing its mouth. This defect was remedied in a new acidimeter, invented by Mr. GEISLER, who also invented the new vaporimeter for the determination of the quantity of alcohol contained in wine. It is based on the same principle as OTTO'S, but differs altogether in its construction. It is composed of three parts, all made of glass; the mixing bottle, Fig. 34; the Pipette, Fig. 35; and the burette, Fig 36. Besides, there should be ready three small glasses—one filled with tincture of litmus, the second with a solution of 1,369 per ammonia, and the third with the must or wine to be tested; also, a taller glass, or vessel, having its bottom covered with cotton, in which glass the burette, after it has been filled with the solution of ammonia, is to be placed in an upright position until wanted.



"To use this instrument the must and the tincture of litmus, having first received the normal temperature of 14 deg. Reaumer, are brought into the mixing bottle by means of the pipette, which is a hollow tube of glass, open on both ends. To fill it, place its lower end into the tincture or must, apply the mouth to the upper end, and by means of suction fill it with the tincture of litmus to above the line indicated at A. The opening of the top is then quickly closed with the thumb; by alternately raising the thumb, and pressing it down again, so much of the tincture is then allowed to flow back into the glass so as to lower the fluid to the line indicated at A. The remainder is then brought into the bottle, and the last drops forced out by blowing into the pipette.

"In filling it with must, raise the fluid in the same way, until it comes up to the line indicated at B, and then empty into the mixing bottle.

"The burette consists of two hollow tubes of glass. In filling it, hold the smaller tube with the right hand into the glass containing the solution of ammonia, apply the mouth to the larger one, and by drawing in the fluid the tube is filled exactly to the line indicated at 0 of the tube.

"Holding the mixing bottle by the neck between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, place the smaller tube of the burette into the mouth of the mixing bottle, which must be constantly shaken; let enough of the solution of ammonia be brought drop by drop, into the mixture in the bottle, till the red has been changed into the deep reddish blue of the purple onion. This is the sign of the proper saturation of the acids. To distinguish still better, turn the mixing bottle upside down, by closing its mouth with the thumb, and examine the color of the fluid in the tube-shaped neck of the bottle, and afterwards, should it be required, add another drop of the ammonia. Repeat this until the proper tone of color has been reached, neither red nor blue. After thus fixing the precise point of the saturation of the acids, the burette is held upright, and the quantity of the solution of ammonia consumed is accurately determined,—that is, to what line on the scale the burette has been emptied. The quantity of the solution so used corresponds with the quantity of acids contained in the must—the larger division lines opposite the numbers indicating the thousandths part, and the smaller lines or dots the ten thousandths part.

"Until the eye has learned by practice to recognize the points of saturation by the tone of color, it can be proven by means of litmus paper. When the mixture in the bottle begins to turn blue, put in the end of a slip of litmus paper about half an inch deep, and then draw this end through your fingers, moistened with water. So long as the ends of the blue litmus paper become more or less reddened, the acids have not been completely saturated. Only when it remains blue, has the point of saturation been reached.

"In examining red must, the method should be modified as follows:—Instead of first filling the pipette with tincture of litmus, fill it with water to the line A, and transfer it into the bottle. After the quantity of must has been added, drop six-thousandths of the solution of ammonia into the mixture, constantly shaking it while dropping, then test it, and so on, until, after every further addition required with litmus paper, it is no longer reddened after having been wiped off."

DR. GALL further gives the following directions, as a guide, to distinguish and determine the proportion of acids which a must should contain, to be still agreeable to the palate, and good:

"Chemists distinguish the acid contained in the grape as the vinous, malic, grape, citric, tannic, gelatinous and para-citric acids. Whether all these are contained in the must, or which of them, is of small moment for us to know. For the practical wine-maker, it is sufficient to know, with full certainty, that, as the grape ripens, while the proportion of sugar increases, the quantity of acids continually diminishes; and hence, by leaving the grapes on the vines as long as possible, we have a double means of improving their products—the must or wine.

"All wines, without exception, to be of good and of agreeable taste, must contain from 4-1/2 to 7 thousandths parts of free acids, and each must containing more than seven thousandths parts of free acids may be considered as having too little water and sugar in proportion to its quantity of acids.

"In all wine-growing countries of Germany, for a number of years past, experience has proved that a corresponding addition of sugar and water is the means of converting the sourest must, not only into a good drinkable wine, but also into as good a wine as can be produced in favorable years, except in that peculiar and delicate aroma found only in the must of well-ripened grapes, and which must and will always distinguish the wines made in the best seasons from those made in poor seasons.

"The saccharometer and acidimeter, properly used, will give us the exact knowledge of what the must contains, and what it lacks; and we have the means at hand, by adding water, to reduce the acids to their proper proportion; and by adding sugar, to increase the amount of sugar the must should contain; in other words, we can change the poor must of indifferent seasons into the normal must of the best seasons in everything, except its bouquet or aroma, thereby converting an unwholesome and disagreeable drink into an agreeable and healthy one."

THE CHANGE OF THE MUST, BY FERMENTATION, INTO WINE.

Let us glance for a few moments at this wonderful, simple, and yet so complicated process, to give a clearer insight into the functions which man has to perform to assist Nature, and have her work for him, to attain the desired end. I cannot put the matter in a better light for my readers than to quote again from DR. GALL. He says:—"To form a correct opinion of what may and can be done in the manufacture of wine, we must be thoroughly convinced that Nature, in her operations, has other objects in view than merely to serve man as his careful cook and butler. Had the highest object of the Creator, in the creation of the grape, been simply to combine in the juice of the fruit nothing but what is indispensable to the formation of that delicious beverage for the accommodation of man, it might have been still easier done for him by at once filling the berries with wine already made. But in the production of fruits, the first object of all is to provide for the propagation and preservation of the species. Each fruit contains the germ of a new plant, and a quantity of nutritious matter surrounding and developing that germ. The general belief is, that this nutritious matter, and even the peculiar combination in which it is found in the fruit, has been made directly for the immediate use of man. This, however, is a mistake. The nutritious matter of the grape, as in the apple, pear, or any similar product, is designed by Nature only to serve as the first nourishment of the future plant, the germ of which lies in it. There are thousands of fruits of no use whatever, and are even noxious to man, and there are thousands more which, before they can be used, must be divested of certain parts, necessary, indeed, to the nutrition of the future plant, but unfit, in its present state, for the use or nourishment of man. For instance, barley contains starch, mucilaginous sugar, gum, adhesive matter, vegetable albumen, phosphate of lime, oil, fibre and water. All these are necessary to the formation of roots, stalks, leaves, flowers and the new grain; but for the manufacture of beer, the brewer needs only the first three substances. The same rule applies to the grape.

"In this use of the grape, all depends upon the judgment of man to select such of its parts as he wishes, and by his skill he adapts and applies them in the best manner for his purposes. In eating the grapes, he throws away the skins and seeds; for raisins, he evaporates the water, retaining only the solid parts, from which, when he uses them, he rejects their seeds. If he manufactures must, he lets the skins remain. In making wine, he sets free the carbonic acid contained in the must, and removes the lees, gum, tartar, and, in short, everything deposited during, and immediately after fermentation, as well as when it is put into casks and bottles. He not only removes from the wine its sediments, but watches the fermentation, and checks it as soon as its vinous fermentation is over, and the formation of vinegar about to begin. He refines his wine by an addition of foreign substances if necessary; he sulphurizes it; and, by one means or another, remedies its distempers.

"The manufacture of wine is thus a many-sided art; and he who does not understand it, or knows not how to guide and direct the powers of Nature to his own purposes, may as well give up all hopes of success in it."

So far DR. GALL; and to the intelligent and unbiased mind, the truth and force of these remarks will be apparent, without further extending or explaining them. How absurd, then, the blind ravings of those who talk about "natural" wines, and would condemn every addition of sugar and water to the must by man, when Nature has not fully done her part, as adulteration and fraud. Why, there is no such thing as a "natural wine;" for wine—good wine—is the product of art, and a manufacture from beginning to end. Would we not think that parent extremely cruel, as well as foolish, who would have her child without clothing, simply because Nature had allowed it to be born without it? Would not the child suffer and die, because its mother failed to aid Nature in her work, by clothing and feeding it when it is yet unable to feed and clothe itself? And yet, would not that wine-maker act equally foolish who has it within his power to remedy the deficiencies of Nature with such means as she herself supplies in good season, and which ought and would be in the must but for unfavorable circumstances, over which we have no control? Wine thus improved is just as pure as if the sugar and water had naturally been in the grapes in right proportions; just as beneficial to health; and only the fanatical "know-nothing" can call it adulterated. But the prejudices will disappear before the light of science and truth, however much ignorance may clamor against it. GALILEO, when forced to abjure publicly his great discovery of the motion of the earth around the sun as a heresy and lie, murmured between his teeth the celebrated words, "And yet it moves." It did move; and the theory is now an acknowledged truth, with which every schoolboy is familiar. Thus will it be with improved wine-making. It will yet be followed, generally and universally, as sure as the public will learn to distinguish between good and poor wine.

Let us now observe for a moment the change which fermentation makes in converting the must into wine. The nitrogeneous compounds—vegetable albumen, gluten—which are contained in the grape, and which are dissolved in the must as completely as the sugar, under certain circumstances turn into the fermenting principle, and so change the must into wine. This change is brought about by the fermenting substance coming into contact with the air, and receiving oxygen from it, in consequence of which it coagulates, and shows itself in the turbid state of must, or young wine. The coagulation of the lees takes place but gradually, and just in the degree the exhausted lees settle. The sugar gradually turns into alcohol. The acids partly remain as tartaric acid, are partly turned into ether, or settle with the lees, chrystallize, and adhere to the bottom of the casks. The etheric oil, or aroma, remains, and develops into bouquet; also the tannin, to a certain degree. The albumen and gluten principally settle, although a small portion of them remains in the wine. The coloring matter and extractive principle remain, but change somewhat by fermentation.

Thus it is the must containing a large amount of sugar needs a longer time to become clear than that containing but a small portion of it; therefore, many southern wines retain a certain amount of sugar undecomposed, and they are called sweet, or liqueur wines; whereas, wines in which the whole of the sugar has been decomposed are called sour or dry wines.

I have thought it necessary to be thus explicit to give my readers an insight into the general principles which should govern us in wine-making. I have quoted freely from the excellent work of DR. GALL. We will now see whether and how we can reduce it to practice. I will try and illustrate this by an example.

NORMAL MUST.

"Experiments continued for a number of years have proved that, in favorable seasons, grape juice contains, on the average, in 1,000 lbs.:

Sugar, 240 lbs. Acids, 6 " Water, 754 " ——- 1,000 "

This proportion would constitute what I call a normal must. But now we have an inferior season, and the must contains, instead of the above proportions, as follows:

Sugar, 150 lbs. Acids, 9 " Water, 841 " ——- 1,000 "

What must we do to bring such must to the condition of a normal must? This is the question thus arising. To solve it, we calculate thus: If, in six pounds of acids in a normal wine, 240 pounds of sugar appear, how much sugar is wanted for nine pounds of acids? Answer, 360 pounds. Our next question is: If, in six pounds of acids in a normal must, 754 pounds of water appear, how much water is required for nine pounds of acids? Answer, 1,131 pounds. As, therefore, the must which we intend to improve by neutralizing its acids, should contain 360 pounds of sugar, nine pounds of acids, and 1,131 pounds of water, but contains already 150 pounds of sugar, 9 pounds of acids, and 841 pounds of water, there remain to be added, 210 pounds of sugar, no acids, and 290 pounds of water.

By ameliorating a quantity of 1,000 pounds must by 210 pounds sugar, and 290 pounds water, we obtain 1,500 pounds of must, consisting of the same properties as the normal must, which makes a first-class wine."

This is wine-making, according to GALL'S method, in Europe. Now, let us see what we can do with it on American soil, and with American grapes.

THE MUST OF AMERICAN GRAPES.

If we examine the must of most of our American wine grapes closely, we find that they not only contain an excess of acids in inferior seasons, but also a superabundance of flavor or aroma, and of tannin and coloring matter. Especially of flavor, there is such an abundance that, were the quantity doubled by addition of sugar and water, there would still be an abundance; and with some varieties, such as the Concord, if fermented on the husks, it is so strong as to be disagreeable. We must, therefore, not only ameliorate the acid, but also the flavor and the astringency, of which the tannin is the principal cause. Therefore it is, that to us the knowledge of how to properly gallize our wines is still more important than to the European vintner, and the results which we can realize are yet more important. By a proper management, we can change must, which would otherwise make a disagreeable wine, into one in which everything is in its proper proportion, and which will delight the consumer, to whose fastidious taste if would otherwise have been repugnant. True, we have here a more congenial climate, and the grapes will generally ripen better, so that we can in most seasons produce a drinkable wine. But if we can increase the quantity, and at the same time improve the quality, there is certainly an inducement, which the practical business sense of our people will not fail to appreciate and make use of.

There is, however, one difficulty in the way. I do not believe that the acidimeter can yet be obtained in the country, and we must import them direct from the manufacturers, DR. L. C. MARQUART, of Bonn, on the Rhine; or J. DIEHN, Frankfort-on-the-Main.

However, this difficulty will soon be overcome; and, indeed, although it is impossible to practice gallizing without a saccharometer, we may get at the surplus of acids with tolerable certainty by the results shown by the saccharometer. To illustrate this, I will give an example:

Last year was one of the most unfavorable seasons for the ripening of grapes we have ever had here, and especially the Catawba lost almost nine-tenths of its crop by mildew and rot; it also lost its leaves, and the result was, that the grapes did not ripen well. When gathering my grapes, upon weighing the must, I found that it ranged from 52 deg. to 70 deg.; whereas, in good seasons, Catawba must weighs from 80 deg. to 95 deg.. I now calculated thus: if normal must of Catawba should weigh at least 80 deg., and the must I have to deal with this season will weigh on an average only 60 deg., I must add to this must about 1/2 lb. of sugar to bring it up to 80 deg.. But now I had the surplus acid to neutralize yet. To do this, I calculated thus: If, even in a normal Catawba must, or a must of the best seasons, there is yet an excess of acid, I can safely count on there being at least one-third too much acid in a must that weighs but 60 deg.. I, therefore, added to every 100 gallons of must 40 gallons of soft water, in which I had first dissolved 80 lbs. of crushed sugar, which brought the water, when weighed after dissolving the sugar in it, up to 80 deg.. Now, I had yet to add 50 lbs., or half a pound to each gallon of the original must, to bring this up to 80 deg.. I thus pressed, instead of 100 gallons, 150 gallons, from the same quantity of grapes; and the result was a wine, which every one who has tasted it has declared to be excellent Catawba. It has a brilliant pale yellow color, was perfectly clear 1st of January, and sold by me to the first one to whom I offered it, at a price which I have seldom realized for Catawba wine made in the best seasons, without addition of sugar or water. True, it has not as strong an aroma as the Catawba of our best seasons, nor has it as much astringency; but this latter I consider an advantage, and it still has abundant aroma to give it character.

Another experiment I made with the Concord satisfied me, without question, that the must of this grape will always gain by an addition of water and sugar. I pressed several casks of the pure juice, which, as the Concord had held its leaves and ripened its fruit very well, contained sugar enough to make a fair wine, namely, 75 deg.. This I generally pressed the day after gathering, and put into separate casks. I then took some must of the same weight, but to which I had added, to every 100 gallons, 50 gallons of water, in which I had diluted sugar until the water weighed 75 deg., or not quite two pounds of sugar to the gallon of water, pressed also after the expiration of the same time, and otherwise treated in the same manner. Both were treated exactly alike, racked at the same time; and the result is, that every one who tries the two wines, without knowing how they have been treated, prefers the gallized wine to the other—the pure juice of the grape. It is more delicate in flavor, has less acidity, and a more brilliant color than the first, the ungallized must. They are both excellent, but there is a difference in favor of the gallized wine.

DR. GALL recommends grape sugar as the best to be used for the purpose. This is made from potato starch; but it is hard to obtain here, and I have found crushed loaf sugar answer every purpose. I think this sugar has the advantage over grape sugar, that it dissolves more readily, and can even be dissolved in cold water, thus simplifying the process very much. It will take about two pounds to the gallon of water to bring this up to 80 deg., which will make a wine of sufficient body. The average price of sugar was about 22 cents per pound, and the cost of thus producing an additional gallon of wine, counting in labor, interest on capital, etc., will be about 60 cents. When the wine can be sold at from $2 to $3 per gallon, the reader will easily perceive of what immense advantage this method is to the grape-grower, if he can thereby not only improve the quality, but also increase the quantity of the yield.

The efforts made by the Commissioner of Patents, and the contributors to the annual reports from the Patent Office, to diffuse a general knowledge of this process, can therefore not be commended too highly. It will help much to bring into general use, among all classes, good, pure, native wines; and as soon as ever the poorer classes can obtain cheap agreeable wines, the use of bad whiskey and brandy will be abandoned more and more, and this nation will become a more temperate people.

But this is only the first step. There is a way to still further increase the quantity. DR. GALL and others found, by analyzing the husks of the grape after the juice had been extracted by powerful presses, that they not only still contained a considerable amount of juice, but also a great amount of extracts, or wine-making principles, in many instances sufficient for three times the bulk of the juice already expressed. This fact suggested the question: As there are so many of these valuable properties left, and only sugar and water exhausted, why cannot these be substituted until the others are completely exhausted? It was found that the husks still contained sufficient of acids, tannin, aroma, coloring matter, and gluten. All that remained to be added was water and sugar. It was found that this could be easily done; and the results showed that wine made in this manner was equal, if not superior, to some of that made from the original juice, and was often, by the best judges, preferred to that made from the original must.

I have also practiced this method extensively the last season; and the result is, that I have fully doubled the amount of wine of the Norton's Virginia and Concord. I have thus made 2,500 gallons of Concord, where I had but 1,030 gallons of original must; and 2,600 gallons of Norton's Virginia, where I had but 1,300 gallons of must. The wines thus made were kept strictly separate from those made from the original juice, and the result is, that many of them are better, and none inferior, to the original must; and although I have kept a careful diary of wine-making, in which I have noted the process how each cask was made, period of fermentation on the husks, quantity of sugar used, etc., and have not hesitated to show this to every purchaser after he had tasted of the wine, they generally, and with very few exceptions, chose those which had either been gallized in part, or entirely.



My method in making such wines was very simple. I generally took the same quantity of water, the husks had given original must, or in other words, when I had pressed 100 gallons of juice, I took about 80 gallons of water. To make Concord wine, I added 1-3/4 lbs. of sugar to the gallon, as I calculated upon some sugar remaining in the husks, which were not pressed entirely dry. This increased the quantity, with the juice yet contained in the husks to 100 gallons, and brought the water to 70; calculating that from 5 deg. to 10 deg. still remained in the husks, it would give us a must of about 80 deg.. The grapes, as before remarked, had been gathered during the foregoing day, and were generally pressed in the morning. As soon as possible the husks were turned into the fermenting vat again, all pulled apart and broken, and the water added to them. As the fermentation had been very strong before, it immediately commenced again. I generally allowed them to ferment for twenty-four hours, and then pressed again, but pressed as dry as possible this time. The whole treatment of this must was precisely similar to that of the original.

In making Norton's Virginia, I would take, instead of 1-3/4 lbs., 2 lbs. of sugar to the gallon—as it is naturally a wine of greater body than the Concord—and I aimed to come as near to the natural must as possible. I generally fermented this somewhat longer, as a darker color was desired. The time of fermentation must vary, of course, with the state of the atmosphere; in cooler weather, both pressings should remain longer on the husks. The results, in both varieties were wines of excellent flavor, good body, a brilliant color, with enough of tannin or astringency, and sufficient acid—therefore, in every way satisfactory.

The experiments, however, were not confined to these alone, but extended over a number of varieties, with good results in every case. Of all varieties tried, however, I found that the Concord would bear the most of gallizing, without losing its own peculiar flavor; and I satisfied myself, that the quantity in this grape can safely be increased here, from 100 gallons of must to 250 gallons of wine, and the quality yet be better, than if the must had been left in its normal condition.

And it is here again where only experience can teach us how far we can go with a certain variety. It must be clear and apparent to any one who is ever so slightly acquainted with wine-making, how widely different the varieties are in their characteristics and ingredients. We may lay it down as a general rule, however, that our native grapes, with their strong and peculiar flavors, and their superabundance of tannin and coloring matter, will admit of much more gallizing, than the more delicately flavored European kinds.

I have thus tried only to give an outline of the necessary operations, as well as the principles lying at the foundation of them. I have also spoken only of facts as I have found them, as I am well aware that this is a field in which I have much to learn yet, and where it but poorly becomes me to act the part of teacher. Those desiring more detailed information, I would refer to the Patent Office Reports of 1859-60, where they will find valuable extracts from the works of DR. GALL; and also to the original works.

If we look at the probable effect these methods of improving wines are likely to have upon grape-culture, it is but natural that we should ask the question: Is there anything reprehensible in the practice—any reason why it should not become general? The answer to this is very simple. They contain nothing which the fermented grape juice, in its purest and most perfect state does not also contain. Therefore, they are as pure as any grape juice can be, with the consideration in their favor, that everything is in the right proportion. Therefore, if wine made from pure grape juice can be recommended for general use, surely, the gallized wines can also be recommended. DR. GALL has repeatedly offered to pay a fine for the benefit of the poor, if the most critical chemical analysis could detect anything in them, which was injurious to health, or which pure wines ought not to contain, and his opponents have always failed to show anything of the kind.

I know that some of my wine-making friends will blame me for thus "letting the cat out of the bag." They seem to think that it would be better to keep the knowledge we have gained, to ourselves, carefully even hiding the fact that any of our wines have been gallized. But it has always been a deep-seated conviction with me, that knowledge and truth, like God's sun should be the common property of all His children—and that it is the duty of every one not to "hide his light under a bushel," but seek to impart it to all, who could, perhaps, be benefitted by it. And why, in reality, should we seek to keep as a secret a practice which is perfectly right and justifiable? If there is a prejudice against it, (and we know there is), this is not the way to combat it. Only by meeting it openly, and showing the fallacy of it, can we hope to convince the public, that there is nothing wrong about it. Truth and justice need never fear the light—they can only gain additional force from it. I do not even attempt to sell a cask of gallized wine, before the purchaser is made fully acquainted with the fact, that it has been gallized.

It is a matter of course, that many, who go to work carelessly and slovenly, will fail to make good wine, in this or any other way. To make a good article, the nature of each variety and its peculiarities must be closely studied—we must have as ripe grapes as we can get, carefully gathered; and we need not think that water and sugar will accomplish everything. There is a limit to everything, and to gallizing as well as to anything else. As soon as we pass beyond that limit, an inferior product will be the result.

But let us glance a moment at the probable influence this discovery will have on American grape culture. It cannot be otherwise than in the highest degree beneficial; for when we simply look at grape-culture as it was ten years ago, with the simple product of the Catawba as its basis; a variety which would only yield an average of, say 200 gallons to the acre—often very inferior wine—and look at it to-day, with such varieties as the Concord, yielding an average of from 1,000 to 1,500 gallons to the acre, which we can yet easily double by gallizing, thus in reality yielding an average of 2,500 gallons to the acre of uniformly good wine; can we be surprised if everybody talks and thinks of raising grapes? Truly, the time is not far distant—of which we hardly dared to dream ten years ago—and which we then thought we would never live to see; when every American citizen can indulge in a daily glass of that glorious gift of God to man, pure, light wine; and the American nation shall become a really temperate people.

And there is room for all. Let every one further the cause of grape-culture. The laborer by producing the grapes and wine; the mechanic by inventions; the law-giver by making laws furthering its culture, and the consumption of it; and all by drinking wine, in wise moderation of course.

WINE MAKING MADE EASY.

Some of my readers may think I did not look much to this, which I told them was one of the objects of this little work. To vindicate it and myself I will here state, that our object should always be to attain the highest perfection in everything. But, while I am aware that I have generally given the outline of operations on a large scale, I have never for a moment lost sight of the interests of those, who, like myself, are compelled, by bitter necessity, to commence at the lowest round of the ladder. And how could I forget the bitter experience of my first years, when hindered by want of means; but also the feelings of sincere joy, of glad triumph, when I had surmounted one more obstacle, and saw the path open wider before me at every step; and I can, therefore, fully sympathize with the poor laborer, who has nothing but his industrious hands and honest will to commence with.

While, therefore, it is most advantageous to follow grape-growing and wine-making with all the conveniences of well prepared soil, substantial trellis, a commodious wine cellar and all its appurtenances; yet, it is also possible to do without most of these conveniencies in the beginning, and yet succeed. If the grape-grower has not capital to spare to buy wire, he can, if he has timber on his land, split laths and nail them to the posts instead of wire. He can layer his plants even the first summer, and thus raise a stock for further planting; or dispose of them, as already mentioned in the beginning of this work. Or he can lease a piece of land from some one who wishes to have a vineyard planted on it, and who will furnish the plants to him, besides the necessary capital for the first year or so. I have contracted with several men without means in this manner, furnished them a small house, the necessary plants, and paid them $150 the first two years, they giving me half the returns of the vineyards, in plants and grapes; and they have become wealthy by such means. One of my tenants has realized over $8,000 for his share the last season, and will very likely realize the same amount next season.

And if he cannot afford to build a large cellar in the beginning, he can also do with a small one, even the most common house cellar will do through the winter, if it is only kept free from frost. One of our most successful wine-growers here, commenced his operations with a simple hole in the ground, dug under his house, and his first wine press was merely a large beam, let into a tree, which acted as a lever upon the grapes, with a press-bed, also of his own making. A few weeks ago the same man sold his last year's crop of wine for over $9,000 in cash, and has raised some $2,000 worth more in vines, cuttings, etc. Of course, it is not advisable to keep the wine over summer in an indifferent cellar, but during fermentation and the greater part of winter, it will answer very well, and he can easily dispose of his wine, if good, as soon as clear. Or he can dispose of his grapes at a fair price, to one of his neighbors, or take them to market.

But there is another consideration, which I cannot urge too strongly upon my readers, and which will do much to make grape-growing and wine-making easy. It is the forming of grape colonies, of grape-growers' villages. The advantages of such a colony will be easily seen. If each one has a small piece of suitable land, (and he does not need a large one to follow grape-growing), the neighbors can easily assist each other in ploughing and sub-soiling; they will be able to do with fewer work animals, as they can hitch together, and first prepare the soil for one and then for the other; the ravages of birds and insects will hardly be felt; they can join together, and build a large cellar in common, where each one can deliver and store his wine, and of which one perhaps better acquainted with the management of wine than the others, and whom all are willing to trust, can have the management. If there should be no such man among them, an experienced cooper can be hired by all, who can also manufacture the necessary casks. An association of that kind has also, generally, the preference in the market over a single individual, and they are able to obtain a higher price for their products, if they are of good quality.

There are thousands upon thousands of acres of the best grape lands yet to be had in the West, especially in Missouri, at a merely nominal price, which would be well adapted for settlements of that kind; where the virgin soil yet waits only the bidding of intelligent labor—of enterprising and industrious men—to bring forth the richest fruits. There is room for all—may it soon be filled with willing hearts to undertake the task.

And how much easier for you to-day, men with the active hand and intelligent brain, to commence—with the certainty of success before you—with varieties which will yield a large and sure return every year; with the market open before you, and the experience of those who have commenced, to guide you; with the reputation of American wines established; with double the price per gallon—and ten times the yield—compared with the beginner of only ten years ago, with nothing but uncertainty; uncertainty of yield, uncertainty of quality, of price, and of effecting a sale.

It took a brave heart then, and an iron will; the determination to succeed,—succeed against all obstacles. And yet, hundreds have commenced thus, and have succeeded. Can you hesitate, when the future is all bright before you, and the thousand and one obstacles have been overcome? If you do, you are not fit to be a grape-grower. Go toil and drudge for so many cents per day, in some factory, and end life as you have begun it. God's free air, the cultivation of one of His noblest gifts, destined to "make glad the heart in this rugged world of ours," is not for you. I may pity you, but I cannot sympathize with nor assist you, except by raising a cheap glass of wine to gladden even your cheerless lot.



STATISTICS.

COST OF ESTABLISHING A VINEYARD.

In this, of course, allowances must be made for soil, locality, cost of plants, cost of timber, etc., which will vary with the locality. The estimation given here is about what it would cost here, with the leading varieties.

COST OF AN ACRE OF CONCORD.

Preparing ground by ploughing, laying off, etc., $ 50 00 700 first-class yearling plants, to be planted 6x10, $12 per hundred, 84 00 450 posts, 15 feet apart, 10 cents each, 45 00 450 intermediate stakes, 3 " 13 50 600 lbs. No. 12 wire, 16 cents per lb., 96 00 Cost of erecting trellis, 50 00 Attendance, labor, etc., during first year, 50 00 Interest on capital, 20 00 ——— $408 50

The following year the vineyard can be made to pay all expenses, by layering, etc.

COST OF AN ACRE OF HERBEMONT.

Preparing ground, 50 00 700 first class plants, 6x10, $25 per hundred, 175 00 450 posts, 10 cents each, 45 00 450 stakes, 3 " 13 50 600 lbs. wire, 16 cents per lb., 96 00 Cost of erecting trellis, 50 00 Attendance, labor, during first two years, 125 00 Interest on capital during first two years, 66 00 ——— $620 50

COST OF AN ACRE OF NORTON'S VIRGINIA.

Preparation of soil, etc., 50 00 850 plants, first class, to be planted 6x8, $25 per hundred, 212 50 450 posts, 10 cents each, 45 00 450 stakes, 3 " 13 50 600 lbs. No. 12 wire, 16 cents per lb., 96 00 Cost of erecting trellis, 50 00 Attendance, labor, etc., during first two years, 125 00 Interest on capital during first two years, at 6 per cent. per annum, 70 00 ——— $662 00

COST OF AN ACRE OF DELAWARE.

Cost of preparing ground, 50 00 1,200 first-class plants, planted 6x6, 400 00 450 posts, 10 cents each, 45 00 450 stakes, 3 " 13 50 600 lbs. No. 12 wire, 16 cents per lb. 96 00 Cost of erecting trellis, 50 00 Cost of cultivation two first years, 125 00 Interest on capital two years, 92 00 ——— $871 50

COST OF AN ACRE OF CATAWBA.

Preparing ground, 50 00 Cost of 1,200 plants, 6x6, 45 00 450 posts, 10 cents each, 45 00 450 stakes, 3 " 13 50 600 lbs. wire, 16 cents per lb., 96 00 Cost of erecting trellis, 50 00 Attendance during two years, 125 00 Interest on capital two years, 39 00 ——— $463 50

PRODUCT.

The following has been the produce of a vineyard of Catawba, now under my management, since 1849:

Bearing Vines Gallons of Yield per season. bearing. Wine. Price. acre.

1849, 1st year, 1,500 750 $1.25 $600 00 1850, 2d " 2,000 150 1.25 95 00 1851, 3d " 2,000 500 1.25 300 00 1852, 4th " 1,800 210 1.25 120 00 1853. 5th " 1,500 580 1.25 500 00 1854, 6th " 2,500 750 1.50 600 00 1855, 7th " 3,000 230 2.00 150 00 1856 8th " 4,000 150 2.00 75 00 1857 9th " 4,000 2,000 1.20 600 00 1858, 10th " 4,000 210 1.20 60 00 1859, 11th " 4,200 1,200 1.20 360 00 1860, 12th " 4,200 1,300 1.25 405 00 1861, 13th " 4,200 150 1.00 37 50 1862, 14th " 4,200 20 2.00 10 00 1863, 15th " 4,200 150 2.00 75 00 1864, 16th " 4,200 150 2.00 75 00 1865, 17th " 4,200 500 2.00 250 00

Which will show the average yield per acre, to have been somewhat over 250 00 Deduct from this cost of labor per year, per acre, 50 00 Interest on capital, 40 00-90 00 Would leave a clear profit, per acre, of 160 00

The poor returns were nearly all occasioned by mildew and rot, with the exception of 1862, when a very destructive hail-storm swept away almost the entire crop; and in 1864, when the vines were all killed down to the snow line by frost the preceding winter.

The following is the cost of a vineyard planted by me in May, 1861, containing about 3,000 vines, on 2-1/2 acres of ground. The ground could not be made ready until late in the season, consequently many of the vines failed to grow, and had to be replanted the second season:

1700 Norton's Virginia, $20.00 per hundred, 340 00 400 Concord (small), 25 " 100 00 350 Delaware, 50 " 175 00 150 Herbemont, 25 " 37 50 50 Cunningham, 50 " 25 00 Other varieties assorted, 100 00 Cost of clearing, ploughing, and planting, $50 per acre, 125 00 Putting up trellis, $150 per acre, 375 00 Interest on capital, 100 00 ———— $1,377 50

PRODUCT.

For layers and cuttings made 1st year, 339 00 " " 2d " 1200 00 " " 3d " 2500 00 Concord grapes sold, 2,000 lbs., net 16 cents, 320 00 Plants and cuttings fourth year, 4000 00 2,040 lbs. of grapes (Concord), marketed at 24 cents per lb., net 489 60 ———— $8,848 60

PRODUCE FIFTH YEAR.

1,030 gallons Concord at $2.50 $2,575 00 1,300 " Norton's Virginia 4.00 5,200 00 125 " Herbemont 3.00 375 00 30 " Cunningham 4.00 120 00 40 " Delaware 6.00 240 00 10 " Clinton 3.00 30 00 50 " Other Varieties 3.00 150 00 336 " Hartford Prolific Grapes 20 cts. per lb. 67 20 57,000 Plants from cuttings and layers, average price $100 per thousand 5,700 00 ————- $14,457 20

Leaving the product of the first five years $23,305 80

From which deduct expenses for plants, trellis, etc., 1,277 Interest on capital at 5 per cent. 500 Cost of labor 1st. year, 150 2d. " 300 3d. " 400 4th. " 500 5th. " 500 ——- Total Cost $3,627 ————- Leaves clear profit for first five years of $19,679 80

The fourth year, nearly all the fruit buds of the vines had been killed above the snow line, but I made, besides the grapes sold, about $1,500 worth of wine, which was emptied by the rebels in their raid that fall, and consequently lost. The vines were not all in bearing this last season, for reasons already given; and the whole amount of vines bearing, was not more than 2,200—hardly two acres. If my readers will contrast this with the yield of the Catawba vineyard, they will see the difference in yield between varieties suited to the climate and soil, and those unused to it.

The last season—although unfavorable to the Catawba—produced an enormous yield of Concord and Norton's Virginia, and cannot be taken as an average crop. I think about 700 gallons of Norton's Virginia, and 1,200 gallons of Concord would be a fair average estimate per year—which the vines can easily produce, and remain healthy and vigorous.

YIELD OF MR. MICHAEL POESCHEL's VINEYARD.—CATAWBA.

Year after planting. Acres in Vines. Yield. Price.

1847, 2d 5-6 24 gallons 2.00 1848, 3d 3-6 1,000 " 2.00 1849, 4th 2 600 " 1.50 1850, 5th 2 350 " 1.25 1851, 6th 2-1/2 450 " 1.75 1852, 7th 2-1/2 500 " 1.50 1853, 8th 2-1/2 350 " 2.00 1854, 9th 3-1/2 800 " 2.00 1855, 10th 3-1/2 50 " 1.50 1856, 11th 3-1/2 1,000 " 1.25 1857, 12th 6 4,500 " 1.50 1858, 13th 6 1,100 " 1.75 1859, 14th 6 1,500 " 1.50 1860, 15th 6 2,000 " 1.25 1861, 16th 6 250 " 1.00 1862, 17th 6 300 " 1.50 1863, 18th 8 2,000 " 1.15

NEW VINEYARD OF MR. MICHAEL POESCHEL, PLANTED IN 1861, 1863—FIRST PARTIAL CROP.

500 Gallons Norton's Virginia—2 acres, at $3 per gallon $1,500 00 Grapes sold from 1/2 acre of Concords 400 00 Plants from cuttings and layers sold 2,000 00 ———— $3,900 00

1864.—SECOND CROP.—VINES BADLY FROSTED IN WINTER.

2 Acres of Norton's Virginia produced 600 gallons, at $4 50 $2,700 00 2-1/2 Acres of Catawba, produced 400 gallons, at $2 15 850 00 Grapes sold from 1/2 acre of Concord 400 00 Plants sold 1,500 00 ———— $5,450 00

1865—THIRD CROP.

2-3/4 Acres of Norton's Virginia, produced 2,000 gallons at $4 8,000 00 2-1/2 Acres Catawba, produced 450 gallons at $1 75 787 50 1-1/4 Acres Concord, produced 1,000 gallons, at $250 2,500 00 1/2 acre Herbemont produced 400 gallons, at $3 per gallon, 1,200 00 1/2 acre Rulander produced 50 gallons, at $5 250 00 Plants sold, 1,500 00 ————- $14,237 50

This vineyard was trenched at an average cost of $120 dollars to the acre, and most of the vines are planted 5x5, evidently too close. They are trained to wire trellis, as described in a former part of this work, and receive close attention, and the very best cultivation.

YIELD OF VINEYARD OF MR. WILLIAM POESCHEL—1857.

1-1/2 acres of Catawba produced 1,050 gallons of wine; sold at 1,402 50

1858.

1-3/4 acres of Catawba produced 250 gallons; sold at $1.10 per gallon, 275 00

1859.

1-3/4 acres Catawba produced 300 gallons; sold at $1.25 per gallon, 375 00

1860.

2 acres of Catawba produced 8,843 lbs. of grapes; sold at 10c. per lb., 884 30 120 gallons of wine, at $1.20 per gallon, 144 00 230 " 0.95 " 218 50 Plants sold, 600 00 ———— $1,846 80

1861.

2 acres of Catawba produced 270 gallons, at $1.05 per gallon, 283 50 Plants sold, 500 00 ——— $783 50

1862.

2 acres Catawba produced 6,718 lbs. of grapes; sold at 9 cents per lb., 604 62 225 gallons of wine, sold at $1.25 per gallon, 281 25 75 " of Norton's Virginia, from about 1-10th of an acre, at $2.75 per gallon, 206 25 Plants sold, 650 00 ———— $1,742 12

1863—2-1/4 ACRES IN ALL.

720 gallons of Catawba, at $1.85 per gallon, 1,332 00 60 " Concord, at $2.00 " 120 00 70 " Herbemont, at $2 " 140 00 40 " Norton's Virginia, $3 " 120 00 Plants sold, 800 00 ———— $2,512 00

1864—2-1/4 ACRES IN BEARING; VINES BADLY FROSTED.

45 gallons Catawba, $2.00 per gallon, 90 00 42 " Concord, 2.50 " 105 00 20 " Norton's Virginia and Delaware mixed, at $5.25 per gallon, 105 00 10 " Norton's Virginia, second class, at $3 30 00 Plants sold, 300 00 ——— $630 00

1865—5 ACRES IN BEARING.

2-1/2 acre Catawba produced 900 galls., at $1.75, 1,575 00 1/2 " Concord " 700 " 2.50, 1,750 00 1 " Norton's Vir. " 600 " 4.00, 2,400 00 1/3 " Delaware " 120 " 5.00, 600 00 1/2 " Herbemont " 350 " 2.50, 875 00 Balance in other varieties, 150 00 Plants sold, 940 00 ———— $8,290 00

This vineyard has one of the best locations for Catawba and Delaware in the neighborhood, and its proprietor one of the most intelligent and industrious cultivators and wine-manufacturers in the vicinity.

The following are copied from the report of a special committee appointed by the Cincinnati Horticultural Society, to inquire into the condition of vineyards, and report whether or not grape-growing was still profitable. I regret to say that our Cincinnati friends have not, generally speaking, paid as much attention to the introduction and testing of better varieties—and there are but few vineyards in that neighborhood—where any other variety than the Catawba has been planted to any extent. It is to be hoped that the signal failure of that variety last season will do much to open their eyes to the full importance of the subject, and to abandon the Catawba, which evidently will not pay any longer.

But, as we have already said, there are other varieties of grapes being successfully grown in this vicinity, and we have extended our researches to some of those vineyards, and give the results as follows:—

Ives' Seedling is a grape of much promise, not addicted to mildew and rot. Col. WAHRING, of Indian Hill, in this county, has a small vineyard, only two acres in bearing, which made, the past season, 650 gallons of wine. The season previous, only one acre in bearing, yielded 560 gallons. The Colonel makes his account for the past season's business stand as follows:—

650 gallons of wine, sold at $4.10 per gallon, $2,665 00 Sale of cuttings, 1,500 00 ———— $4,165 00 Deduct cost of taking care of vineyard, 100 00 ———— Leaving net product of vineyard, $4,065 00 Or over $2,000 per acre.

Norton's Virginia is another promising grape that is being grown considerably hereabouts.

The Messrs. BOGEN have given us their figures for the product of this grape, as follows:

1863—From 1-1/2 acres, first year in bearing, they made 500 gallons, sold at $3 per gallon, $1,500 00 Sale of cuttings, 400 00 Sale of roots from layers, 800 00 ———— $2,700 00 Deduct from this, for cost of culture, 100 00 ———— Leaves net, $2,600 00 Or $1,733 per acre.

1864—Yield of same in wine and cuttings, 2,300 00 Or about $1,500 per acre.

Delaware is another grape of very great promise and profit, now being extensively grown throughout the country. The Messrs. BOGEN, from one-third of an acre, first bearing year, give us the following figures for the past season:

87 gallons of wine, sold at $6 per gallon, 522 00 Sold cuttings, 450 00 Sold roots from layers, 2,050 00 ———— $3,022 00 Deduct cost of culture, 22 00 ———— $3,000 00 Or $9,000 per acre.

Mr. J. E. MOTTIER gives us, as the result of his Delaware vineyard for the past two years, as follows:

1863—FROM 1-1/2 ACRES.

165 gallons of wine, sold at $5 per gallon, $825 00 Sale of cuttings, 1,630 00 ———— 2,455 00 Deduct expenses, 200 00 ———— Leaving net, $2,255 00 Or $1,504 per acre.

1864—FROM SAME VINEYARD.

200 gallons of wine, at $6 per gallon, $1,200 00 Sold roots from layers, 1,835 00 Sales of cuttings, 2,360 00 ————- 5,395 00 Deduct expenses, 200 00 ———— Leaves net, $5,195 00 Or $3,562 per acre

Mr. MOTTIER says he might have obtained a larger yield of wine, but his vineyard being young, he would not allow it to overbear.

Your committee, therefore, take pleasure in submitting the foregoing facts, in refutation, in part, of the loose and reckless statements of Mr. YEATMAN, and take this method of entering their protest against the same.

(Signed), E. A. THOMPSON. JOHN E. MOTTIER.

The foregoing contains some valuable facts, but it would seem to me that our Cincinnati friends have hardly estimated labor and expenses high enough. We cannot begin to cultivate our vineyards at as low an estimate.

The following is a rough estimate of the last season's crop around Hermann. It may be rather inaccurate, but it is about as near as I could come to the result. There are now, I suppose, something like 1,000 acres planted in grapes, of which about 400 may be in bearing. Unfortunately, nearly all the old vineyards are planted with the Catawba, which was almost an entire failure this season, the average crop being only about 75 gallons to the acre. Most of the later planting has been done with the Concord and Norton's Virginia, but these vineyards are not bearing yet. Of the Norton's Virginia, the average crop the last season may have been about 600 gallons to the acre; of the Concord, 1,000 gallons per acre. The Herbemont may have yielded about 800 gallons to the acre.

Grapes marketed, mostly Concord, 20,000 lbs. average price, 15c. per lb., $3,000 00 Catawba wine made, about 25,000 gallons; average value, $1.50 per gallon, 37,500 00 Norton's Virginia wine made, about 10,000 gallons; average value, $4 per gallon, 40,000 00 Concord wine made, about 5,000 gallons; average value, $2.50 per gallon, 12,500 00 Herbemont wine made, about 1,500 gallons; average value, $3 per gallon, 4,500 00 Other varieties made, about 1,000 gallons; average value, $3 per gallons, 3,000 00 Grape roots, cuttings, etc., grown and sold, 50,000 00 ————— $150,500 00

I think the above is rather below the real amount; and the value of the crop may come up even as high as $200,000.

Although grape culture is followed to a larger extent around Hermann than anywhere in the State, yet there are also a great many grapes grown and wine made around Boonville, in Cooper County; and Augusta, St. Charles County; also, Hannibal, on the Mississippi river; and St. Joseph, on the Missouri; and there is hardly a county in the State now but has some flourishing vineyards.

The above facts may serve to give my readers a clearer insight into the cost and profits of grape-growing, and also the comparative varieties. In every case, the figures given can be relied on as actual facts.

In our neighboring States, Illinois and Iowa, grape-growing is progressing rapidly. There are already a number of vineyards established in the neighborhood of Alton, Belleville, Mascoutah, Warsaw, and Nauvoo, in Illinois; and in the neighborhood of Burlington and Davenport, in Iowa. I am told that in the neighborhood of Makanda alone, in Jackson County, Illinois, at least 70,000 vines of the Concord will be planted the coming spring.

Our sister State, Kansas, is also progressing bravely in the good work; and I do not think that, although our propagators throughout the country have done their best, there will be half the number of vines for sale that are wanted to meet the demand.

But, while I am fully aware of the importance of grape-culture everywhere, I cannot help but believe that the southwest will take the preference in grape-growing over the eastern and northern States. We have the advantages of longer seasons and a warmer climate, generally of richer soil, of cheaper lands; we can cultivate varieties which cannot be grown by our eastern brethren, and therefore all the chances are on our side. The mountainous regions of Tennessee, Georgia, Arkansas, Texas, and Alabama may, perhaps, rival and even surpass us in the future, but their inhabitants at present are not of the clay from which grape-growers are formed. They still cling to the demon of slavery, and their hatred of northern industrious freemen seems to be stronger than their love of prosperity. Let us hope that a better spirit may prevail, that they will in time begin to see their own interest, and welcome with open arms every one who can assist them in developing the natural advantages of their lands. The grape can only flourish on free soil, and by free intelligent labor.

THE END