Those who use iron ovens do not always succeed in baking puff paste, fruit pies, &c. Puff paste is often spoiled by baking it after fruit pies, in an iron oven. This may be easily avoided, by putting two or three bricks that are quite even into the oven before it is first set to get hot. This will not only prevent the syrup from boiling put of the pies, but also prevent a very disagreeable smell in the kitchen and house, and almost answers the same purpose as a brick oven.

College Puddings.—(No. 105.)

Beat four eggs, yelks and whites together, in a quart basin, with two ounces of flour, half a nutmeg, a little ginger, and three ounces of sugar; pounded loaf sugar is best. Beat it into a smooth batter; then add six ounces of suet, chopped fine, six of currants, well washed and picked; mix it all well together; a glass of brandy or white wine will improve it. These puddings are generally fried in butter or lard; but they are much nicer baked in an oven in patty-pans; twenty minutes will bake them: if fried, fry them till they are of a nice light brown, and when fried, roll them in a little flour. You may add one ounce of orange or citron, minced very fine; when you bake them, add one more egg, or two spoonfuls of milk. Serve them up with white wine sauce.

Rice Puddings baked, or boiled.—(No. 106.)

Wash in cold water and pick very clean six ounces of rice, put it in a quart stew-pan three parts filled with cold water, set it on the fire, and let it boil five minutes; pour away the water, and put in one quart of milk, a roll of lemon peel, and a bit of cinnamon; let it boil gently till the rice is quite tender; it will take at least one hour and a quarter; be careful to stir it every five minutes; take it off the fire, and stir in an ounce and a half of fresh butter, and beat up three eggs on a plate, a salt-spoonful of nutmeg, two ounces of sugar; put it into the pudding, and stir it till it is quite smooth; line a pie-dish big enough to hold it with puff paste, notch it round the edge, put in your pudding, and bake it three quarters of an hour: this will be a nice firm pudding.

If you like it to eat more like custard, add one more egg, and half a pint more milk; it will be better a little thinner when boiled; one hour will boil it. If you like it in little puddings, butter small tea-cups, and either bake or boil them, half an hour will do either: you may vary the pudding by putting in candied lemon or orange-peel, minced very fine, or dried cherries, or three ounces of currants, or raisins, or apples minced fine.

If the puddings are baked or boiled, serve them with white-wine sauce, or butter and sugar.

Ground Rice Pudding.—(No. 107.)

Put four ounces of ground rice into a stew-pan, and by degrees stir in a pint and a half of milk; set it on the fire, with a roll of lemon and a bit of cinnamon; keep stirring it till it boils; beat it to a smooth batter; then set it on the trivet, where it will simmer gently for a quarter of an hour; then beat three eggs on a plate, stir them into the pudding with two ounces of sugar and two drachms of nutmeg, take out the lemon-peel and cinnamon, stir it all well together, line a pie-dish with thin puff paste (No. 1 of receipts for pastry), big enough to hold it, or butter the dish well, and bake it half an hour; if boiled, it will take one hour in a mould well buttered; three ounces of currants may be added.

Rice Snow Balls.—(No. 108.)

Wash and pick half a pound of rice very clean, put it on in a saucepan with plenty of water; when it boils let it boil ten minutes, drain it on a sieve till it is quite dry, and then pare six apples, weighing two ounces and a half each. Divide the rice into six parcels, in separate cloths, put one apple in each, tie it loose, and boil it one hour; serve it with sugar and butter, or wine sauce.

Rice Blancmange.—(No. 109.)

Put a tea-cupful of whole rice into the least water possible, till it almost bursts; then add half a pint of good milk or thin cream, and boil it till it is quite a mash, stirring it the whole time it is on the fire, that it may not burn; dip a shape in cold water, and do not dry it; put in the rice, and let it stand until quite cold, when it will come easily out of the shape. This dish is much approved of; it is eaten with cream or custard, and preserved fruits; raspberries are best. It should be made the day before it is wanted, that it may get firm.

This blancmange will eat much nicer, flavoured with spices, lemon-peel, &c., and sweetened with a little loaf sugar, add it with the milk, and take out the lemon-peel before you put in the mould.

Save-all Pudding.—(No. 110.)

Put any scraps of bread into a clean saucepan; to about a pound, put a pint of milk; set it on the trivet till it boils; beat it up quite smooth; then break in three eggs, three ounces of sugar, with a little nutmeg, ginger, or allspice, and stir it all well together. Butter a dish big enough to hold it, put in the pudding, and have ready two ounces of suet chopped very fine, strew it over the top of the pudding, and bake it three quarters of an hour; four ounces of currants will make it much better.

Batter Pudding, baked or boiled.—(No. 111.)

Break three eggs in a basin with as much salt as will lie on a sixpence; beat them well together, and then add four ounces of flour; beat it into a smooth batter, and by degrees add half a pint of milk: have your saucepan ready boiling, and butter an earthen mould well, put the pudding in, and tie it tight over with a pudding-cloth, and boil it one hour and a quarter. Or, put it in a dish that you have well buttered, and bake it three quarters of an hour.

Currants washed and picked clean, or raisins stoned, are good in this pudding, and it is then called a black cap: or, add loaf sugar, and a little nutmeg and ginger without the fruit,—it is very good that way; serve it with wine sauce.

Apple Pudding boiled.—(No. 112.)

Chop four ounces of beef suet very fine, or two ounces of butter, lard, or dripping; but the suet makes the best and lightest crust; put it on the paste-board, with eight ounces of flour, and a salt-spoonful of salt, mix it well together with your hands, and then put it all of a heap, and make a hole in the middle; break one egg in it, stir it well together with your finger, and by degrees infuse as much water as will make it of a stiff paste: roll it out two or three times, with the rolling-pin, and then roll it large enough to receive thirteen ounces of apples. It will look neater if boiled in a basin, well buttered, than when boiled in a pudding-cloth, well floured; boil it an hour and three quarters: but the surest way is to stew the apples first in a stew-pan, with a wine-glassful of water, and then one hour will boil it. Some people like it flavoured with cloves and lemon-peel, and sweeten it with two ounces of sugar.

Gooseberries, currants, raspberries, and cherries, damsons, and various plums and fruits, are made into puddings with the same crust directed for apple puddings.

Apple Dumplings.—(No. 113.)

Make paste the same as for apple pudding, divide it into as many pieces as you want dumplings, peel the apples and core them, then roll out your paste large enough, and put in the apples; close it all round, and tie them in pudding-cloths very tight; one hour will boil them: and when you take them up, just dip them in cold water, and put them in a cup the size of the dumpling while you untie them, and they will turn out without breaking.

Suet Pudding or Dumplings.—(No. 114.)

Chop six ounces of suet very fine: put it in a basin with six ounces of flour, two ounces of bread-crumbs, and a tea-spoonful of salt; stir it all well together: beat two eggs on a plate, add to them six table-spoonfuls of milk, put it by degrees into the basin, and stir it all well together; divide it into six dumplings, and tie them separate, previously dredging the cloth lightly with flour. Boil them one hour.

This is very good the next day fried in a little butter. The above will make a good pudding, boiled in an earthenware mould, with the addition of one more egg, a little more milk, and two ounces of suet. Boil it two hours.

N.B. The most economical way of making suet dumplings, is to boil them without a cloth in a pot with beef or mutton; no eggs are then wanted, and the dumplings are quite as light without: roll them in flour before you put them into the pot; add six ounces of currants, washed and picked, and you have currant pudding: or divided into six parts, currant dumplings; a little sugar will improve them.

Cottage Potato Pudding or Cake.—(No. 115.)

Peel, boil, and mash, a couple of pounds of potatoes: beat them up into a smooth batter, with about three quarters of a pint of milk, two ounces of moist sugar, and two or three beaten eggs. Bake it about three quarters of an hour. Three ounces of currants or raisins may be added. Leave out the milk, and add three ounces of butter,—it will make a very nice cake.

FOOTNOTES:

[392-*] An old gentlewoman, who lived almost entirely on puddings, told us, it was a long time before she could get them made uniformly good, till she made the following rule:—"If the pudding was good, she let the cook have the remainder of it; if it was not, she gave it to her lapdog;" but as soon as this resolution was known, poor little Bow-wow seldom got the sweet treat after.



OBSERVATIONS ON PICKLES.

We are not fond of pickles: these sponges of vinegar are often very indigestible, especially in the crisp state in which they are most admired. The Indian fashion of pounding pickles is an excellent one: we recommend those who have any regard for their stomach, yet still wish to indulge their tongue, instead of eating pickles, which are really merely vehicles for taking a certain portion of vinegar and spice, &c. to use the flavoured vinegars; such as burnet (No. 399), horseradish (No. 399*), tarragon (No. 396), mint (No. 397), cress (Nos. 397*, 401, 403, 405*, 453, 457), &c.; by combinations of these, a relish may easily be composed, exactly in harmony with the palate of the eater.

The pickle made to preserve cucumbers, &c. is generally so strongly impregnated with garlic, mustard, and spice, &c. that the original flavour of the vegetables is quite overpowered; and if the eater shuts his eyes, his lingual nerves will be puzzled to inform him whether he is munching an onion or a cucumber, &c., and nothing can be more absurd, than to pickle plums, peaches, apricots, currants, grapes, &c.

The strongest vinegar must be used for pickling: it must not be boiled or the strength of the vinegar and spices will be evaporated. By parboiling the pickles in brine, they will be ready in much less time than they are when done in the usual manner, of soaking them in cold salt and water for six or eight days. When taken out of the hot brine, let them get cold and quite dry before you put them into the pickle.

To assist the preservation of pickles, a portion of salt is added; and for the same purpose, and to give flavour, long pepper, black pepper, allspice, ginger, cloves, mace, garlic, eschalots, mustard, horseradish, and capsicum.

The following is the best method of preparing the pickle, as cheap as any, and requires less care than any other way.

Bruise in a mortar four ounces of the above spices; put them into a stone jar with a quart of the strongest vinegar, stop the jar closely with a bung, cover that with a bladder soaked with pickle, set it on a trivet by the side of the fire for three days, well shaking it up at least three times in the day; the pickle should be at least three inches above the pickles. The jar being well closed, and the infusion being made with a mild heat, there is no loss by evaporation.

To enable the articles pickled more easily and speedily to imbibe the flavour of the pickle they are immersed in, previously to pouring it on them, run a larding-pin through them in several places.

The spices, &c. commonly used, are those mentioned in the receipt for pickling walnuts; which is also an excellent savoury sauce for cold meats.

The flavour may be varied ad infinitum by adding celery, cress-seed, or curry powder (No. 455), or by taking for the liquor any of the flavoured vinegars, &c. we have enumerated above, and see the receipts between Nos. 395 and 421.

Pickles should be kept in a dry place, in unglazed earthenware, or glass jars, which are preferable, as you can, without opening them, observe whether they want filling up: they must be very carefully stopped with well-fitted bungs, and tied over as closely as possible with a bladder wetted with the pickle; and if to be preserved a long time, after that is dry, it must be dipped in bottle-cement; see page 127.

When the pickles are all used, boil up the liquor with a little fresh spice.

To walnut liquor may be added a few anchovies and eschalots: let it stand till it is quite clear, and bottle it: thus you may furnish your table with an excellent savoury keeping sauce for hashes, made dishes, fish, &c. at very small cost; see No. 439.

Jars should not be more than three parts filled with the articles pickled, which should be covered with pickle at least two inches above their surface; the liquor wastes, and all of the articles pickled, that are not covered, are soon spoiled.

When they have been done about a week, open the jars, and fill them up with pickle.

Tie a wooden spoon, full of holes, round each jar to take them out with.

If you wish to have gherkins, &c. very green, this may be easily accomplished by keeping them in vinegar, sufficiently hot, till they become so.

If you wish cauliflowers, onions, &c. to be white, use distilled vinegar for them.

To entirely prevent the mischief arising from the action of the acid upon the metallic utensils usually employed to prepare pickles, the whole of the process is directed to be performed in unglazed stone jars.

N.B. The maxim of "open your mouth, and shut your eyes," cannot be better applied than to pickles; and the only direction we have to record for the improvement of their complexion, is the joke of Dr. Goldsmith, "If their colour does not please you, send 'em to Hammersmith, that's the way to Turnham Green."

Commencing the list with walnuts, I must take this opportunity of impressing the necessity of being strictly particular in watching the due season; for of all the variety of articles in this department to furnish the well-regulated store-room, nothing is so precarious, for frequently after the first week that walnuts come in season, they become hard and shelled, particularly if the season is a very hot one; therefore let the prudent housekeeper consider it indispensably necessary they should be purchased as soon as they first appear at market; should they cost a trifle more, that is nothing compared to the disappointment of finding, six months hence, when you go to your pickle-jar, expecting a fine relish for your chops, &c. to find the nuts incased in a shell, which defies both teeth and steel.

Nasturtiums are to be had by the middle of July.

Garlic, from Midsummer to Michaelmas.

Eschalots, ditto.

Onions, the various kinds for pickling, are to be had, by the middle of July, and for a month after.

Gherkins are to be had by the middle of July, and for a month after.

Cucumbers are to be had by the middle of July, and for a month after.

Melons and mangoes are to be had by the middle of July, and for a month after.

Capsicums, green, red, and yellow, the end of July, and following month.

Chilies, the end of July, and following month. See Nos. 404 and 405*, and No. 406.

Love apples, or tomatas, end of July, and throughout August. See No. 443.

Cauliflower, for pickling, July and August.

Artichokes, for pickling, July and August.

Jerusalem artichokes, for pickling, July and August, and for three months after.

Radish pods, for pickling, July.

French beans, for pickling, July.

Mushrooms, for pickling and catchup, September. See No. 439.

Red cabbage, August.

White cabbage, September and October.

Samphire, August.

Horseradish, November and December.

Walnuts.—(No. 116.)

Make a brine of salt and water, in the proportion of a quarter of a pound of salt to a quart of water; put the walnuts into this to soak for a week; or if you wish to soften them so that they may be soon ready for eating, run a larding-pin through them in half a dozen places—this will allow the pickle to penetrate, and they will be much softer, and of better flavour, and ready much sooner than if not perforated: put them into a stew-pan with such brine, and give them a gentle simmer; put them on a sieve to drain; then lay them on a fish plate, and let them stand in the air till they turn black—this may take a couple of days; put them into glass, or unglazed stone jars; fill these about three parts with the walnuts, and fill them up with the following pickle.

To each quart of the strongest vinegar put two ounces of black pepper, one of ginger, same of eschalots, same of salt, half an ounce of allspice, and half a drachm of Cayenne. Put these into a stone jar; cover it with a bladder, wetted with pickle, tie over that some leather, and set the jar on a trivet by the side of the fire for three days, shaking it up three times a day, and then pour it while hot to the walnuts, and cover them down with bladder wetted with the pickle, leather, &c.

Gherkins.—(No. 117.)

Get those of about four inches long, and an inch in diameter, the crude half-grown little gherkins usually pickled are good for nothing. Put them into (unglazed) stone pans; cover them with a brine of salt and water, made with a quarter of a pound of salt to a quart of water; cover them down; set them on the earth before the fire for two or three days till they begin to turn yellow; then put away the water, and cover them with hot vinegar; set them again before the fire; keep them hot till they become green (this will take eight or ten days); then pour off the vinegar, having ready to cover them a pickle of fresh vinegar, &c., the same as directed in the preceding receipt for walnuts (leaving out the eschalots); cover them with a bung, bladder, and leather. Read the observations on pickles, p. 487.

Obs.—The vinegar the gherkins were greened in will make excellent salad sauce, or for cold meats. It is, in fact, superlative cucumber vinegar.

French Beans—Nasturtiums, &c.—(No. 118.)

When young, and most other small green vegetables, may be pickled the same way as gherkins.

Beet Roots.—(No. 119.)

Boil gently till they are full three parts done (this will take from an hour and a half to two and a half); then take them out, and when a little cooled, peel them, and cut them in slices about half an inch thick. Have ready a pickle for it, made by adding to each a quart of vinegar an ounce of ground black pepper, half an ounce of ginger pounded, same of salt, and of horseradish cut in thin slices; and you may warm it, if you like, with a few capsicums, or a little Cayenne; put these ingredients into a jar; stop it close, and let them steep three days on a trivet by the side of the fire; then, when cold, pour the clear liquor on the beet-root, which have previously arranged in a jar.

Red Cabbage.—(No. 120.)

Get a fine purple cabbage, take off the outside leaves, quarter it, take out the stalk, shred the leaves into a colander, sprinkle them with salt, let them remain till the morrow, drain them dry, put them into a jar, and cover them with the pickle for beet roots.

Onions.—(No. 121.)

The small round silver button onions, about as big as a nutmeg, make a very nice pickle. Take off their top coats, have ready a stew-pan, three parts filled with boiling water, into which put as many onions as will cover the top: as soon as they look clear, immediately take them up with a spoon full of holes, and lay them on a cloth three times folded, and cover them with another till you have ready as many as you wish: when they are quite dry, put them into jars, and cover them with hot pickle, made by infusing an ounce of horseradish, same of allspice, and same of black pepper, and same of salt, in a quart of best white-wine vinegar, in a stone jar, on a trivet by the side of the fire for three days, keeping it well closed; when cold, bung them down tight, and cover them with bladder wetted with the pickle and leather.

Cauliflowers or Broccoli.—(No. 122.)

Choose those that are hard, yet sufficiently ripe, cut away the leaves and stalks.

Set on a stew-pan half full of water, salted in proportion of a quarter of a pound of salt to a quart of water; throw in the cauliflower, and let it heat gradually; when it boils take it up with a spoon full of holes, and spread them on a cloth to dry before the fire, for twenty-four hours at least; when quite dry, put them, piece by piece, into jars or glass tie-overs, and cover them with the pickle we have directed for beet roots, or make a pickle by infusing three ounces of the curry powder (No. 455) for three days in a quart of vinegar by the side of the fire.

Nasturtiums are excellent prepared as above.

Indian or mixed Pickles—Mango or Piccalilli.—(No. 123.)

The flavouring ingredients of Indian pickles are a compound of curry powder, with a large proportion of mustard and garlic.

The following will be found something like the real mango pickle, especially if the garlic be used plentifully. To each gallon of the strongest vinegar put four ounces of curry powder (No. 455), same of flour of mustard (some rub these together, with half a pint of salad oil), three of ginger bruised, and two of turmeric, half a pound (when skinned) of eschalots slightly baked in a Dutch oven, two ounces of garlic prepared in like manner, a quarter of a pound of salt, and two drachms of Cayenne pepper.

Put these ingredients into a stone jar; cover it with a bladder wetted with the pickle, and set it on a trivet by the side of the fire during three days, shaking it up three times a day; it will then be ready to receive gherkins, sliced cucumbers, sliced onions, button onions, cauliflowers, celery, broccoli, French beans, nasturtiums, capsicums, and small green melons. The latter must be slit in the middle sufficiently to admit a marrow-spoon, with which take out all the seeds; then parboil the melons in a brine that will bear an egg; dry them, and fill them with mustard-seed, and two cloves of garlic, and bind the melon round with packthread.

Large cucumbers may be prepared in like manner.

Green peaches make the best imitation of the Indian mango.

The other articles are to be separately parboiled (excepting the capsicums) in a brine of salt and water strong enough to bear an egg; taken out and drained, and spread out, and thoroughly dried in the sun, on a stove, or before a fire, for a couple of days, and then put into the pickle.

Any thing may be put into this pickle, except red cabbage and walnuts.

It will keep several years.

Obs.—To the Indian mango pickle is added a considerable quantity of mustard-seed oil, which would also be an excellent warm ingredient in our salad sauces.



HOUSEKEEPERS' MANUAL.

VARIOUS USEFUL FAMILY RECEIPTS.

To prevent Beer becoming Flat after it is drawn.

Put a piece of toasted bread into it, and it will preserve the spirit for twelve hours after, in a very considerable degree.

To clean Plate.

First.—Take care that your plate is quite free from grease.

Second.—Take some whitening mixed with water, and a sponge, rub it well on the plate, which will take the tarnish off; if it is very bad, repeat the whitening and water several times, making use of a brush, not too hard, to clean the intricate parts.

Third.—Take some rouge-powder, mix it with water to about the thickness of cream, and with a small piece of leather (which should be kept for that purpose only) apply the rouge, which, with the addition of a little "Elbow Grease," will, in a short time, produce a most beautiful polish.

N.B.—The rouge-powder may be had at all the silversmiths and jewellers.

Obs.—The above is the actual manner in which silversmiths clean their plate, and was given to me by a respectable tradesman.

The common Method of cleaning Plate.

First wash it well with soap and warm water; when perfectly dry, mix together a little whitening and sweet oil, so as to make a soft paste; then take a piece of flannel, rub it on the plate; then with a leather, and plenty of dry whitening, rub it clean off again; then, with a clean leather and a brush, finish it.

Varnish for Oil Paintings.

According to the number of your pictures, take the whites of the same number of eggs, and an equal number of pieces of sugar candy, the size of a hazel nut, dissolved, and mix it with a tea-spoonful of brandy; beat the whites of your eggs to a froth, and let it settle; take the clear, put it to your brandy and sugar, mix them well together, and varnish over your pictures with it.

This is much better than any other varnish, as it is easily washed off when your pictures want cleaning again.

Method of cleaning Paper-Hangings.

Cut into eight half quarters a quartern loaf, two days old; it must neither be newer nor staler. With one of these pieces, after having blown off all the dust from the paper to be cleaned, by the means of a good pair of bellows, begin at the top of the room, holding the crust in the hand, and wiping lightly downward with the crumb, about half a yard at each stroke, till the upper part of the hangings is completely cleaned all round. Then go round again, with the like sweeping stroke downwards, always commencing each successive course a little higher than the upper stroke had extended, till the bottom be finished. This operation, if carefully performed, will frequently make very old paper look almost equal to new.

Great caution must be used not by any means to rub the paper hard, nor to attempt cleaning it the cross, or horizontal way. The dirty part of the bread, too, must be each time cut away, and the pieces renewed as soon as it may become necessary.

To make WOODEN Stairs have the appearance of STONE.

Paint the stairs, step by step, with white paint, mixed with strong drying oil. Strew it thick with silver sand.

It ought to be thoroughly dry next morning, when the loose sand is to be swept off. The painting and sanding is to be repeated, and when dry, the surface is to be done over with pipe-clay, whiting, and water; which may be boiled in an old saucepan, and laid on with a bit of flannel, not too thick, otherwise it will be apt to scale off.

A penny cake of pipe-clay, which must be scraped, is the common proportion to half a lump of whiting.

The pipe-clay and whiting is generally; applied once a week, but that might be done only as occasion requires.

French Polish.

Take a quarter of an ounce of gum sandarac and a quarter of an ounce of gum mastic; pick the dirt and black lumps out very carefully, and pound them in a mortar quite fine; put them into a bottle, and add to them a quartern (old measure) of strong spirit of wine; cork it down and put it in a warm place; shake it frequently till the gum is entirely dissolved, which will be in about twenty-four hours.

Before using it, be careful to ascertain that no grease is on the furniture, as grease would prevent its receiving the polish. If the furniture has been previously cleaned with bees'-wax or oil, it must be got off by scraping, which is the best way, but difficult to those who do not perfectly understand it, because if you are not very careful, you may scratch the surface, and create more expense than a workman would charge to do it properly at first. Or it may be done by scouring well with sand and water, and afterward rubbed quite smooth with fine glass paper, being careful to do it with the grain of the wood. To apply the polish, you must have a piece of list or cloth twisted, and tied round quite tight, and left even at one end, which should be covered with a piece of fine linen cloth; then pour a little of the polish on the furniture, and rub it well all over till it is worked into the grain of the wood, and begins to look quite smooth; then take a soft fine cloth, or what is better, an old silk handkerchief, and keep rubbing lightly until the polish is complete, which will take two or three hours. It will greatly help the polish if it is done near a fire.

If it does not look so smooth and clear as it should, a little sweet oil rubbed lightly over, and cleaned off directly, will greatly heighten it. If any part of the furniture has carving about it, where it will be impossible to polish, it must be done with mastic varnish, and a camel's hair brush, after the rest is finished.

When the polish begins to look dull, it may be recovered with a little spirit of wine.

Polish for Dining Tables,

Is to rub them with cold-drawn linseed oil, thus:—put a little in the middle of a table, and then with a piece of linen (never use woollen) cloth rub it well all over the table; then take another piece of linen, and rub it for ten minutes, then rub it till quite dry with another cloth. This must be done every day for several months, when you will find your mahogany acquire a permanent and beautiful lustre, unattainable by any other means, and equal to the finest French polish; and if the table is covered with the tablecloth only, the hottest dishes will make no impression upon it: and when once this polish is produced, it will only require dry rubbing with a linen cloth for about ten minutes twice in a week, to preserve it in the highest perfection; which never fails to please your employers; and remember, that to please others is always the surest way to profit yourself.

If the appearance must be more immediately produced, take some FURNITURE PASTE.

To prevent disagreeable Smells from Sinks, &c.

The disgustful effluvia arising from cabbage-water, and the various ungrateful odours which arise from the sink of kitchens, drains, &c., are not only an unnecessary nuisance to the good folks of the second table, but we believe such miasm is not an uncommon cause of putrid fevers, &c. &c.

It cannot be too generally known, that a cheap and simple apparatus has been contrived for carrying off the waste water, &c. from sinks, which at the same time effectually prevents any air returning back from thence, or from any drain connected therewith. This is known by the name of Stink Trap, and costs about five shillings.

No kitchen sink should be without it.

To prevent Moths.

In the month of April beat your fur garments well with a small cane or elastic stick, then lap them up in linen without pressing the fur too hard, and put between the folds some camphor in small lumps; then put your furs in this state in boxes well closed.

When the furs are wanted for use, beat them well as before, and expose them for twenty-four hours to the air, which will take away the smell of the camphor.

If the fur has long hair, as bear or fox, add to the camphor an equal quantity of black pepper in powder.

Paste.

To make common paste, mix one table-spoonful of flour with one of cold water, stir it well together, and add two more table-spoonfuls of water; set it over the fire and give it a boil, stirring it all the time, or it will burn at the bottom of the saucepan.



OBSERVATIONS ON CARVING.

"'Have you learned to carve?' for it is ridiculous not to carve well.

"A man who tells you gravely that he cannot carve, may as well tell you that he cannot feed himself; it is both as necessary and as easy."—Lord CHESTERFIELD'S 211th Letter.

Next to giving a good dinner, is treating our friends with hospitality and attention, and this attention is what young people have to learn. Experience will teach them in time, but till they acquire it, they will appear ungraceful and awkward.

Although the art of carving is one of the most necessary accomplishments of a gentleman, it is little known but to those who have long been accustomed to it; a more useful or acceptable present cannot be offered to the public than to lay before them a book calculated to teach the rising generation how to acquit themselves amiably in this material part of the duties of the table.

Young people seldom study this branch of the philosophy of the banquet, beyond the suggestion of their own whims and caprices; and cut up things not only carelessly, but wastefully, until they learn the pleasure of paying butchers' and poulterers' bills on their own account.

Young housekeepers, unaccustomed to carving, will, with the help of the following instructions, soon be enabled to carve with ease and elegance; taking care also to observe, as occasion may offer, the manner in which a skilful operator sets about his task, when a joint or fowl is placed before him.

It has been said, that you may judge of a person's character by his handwriting; you may judge of his conscience by his carving.

Fair carving is much more estimable evidence of good nature than fair writing: let me see how a gentleman carves at another person's table, especially how he helps himself, and I will presently tell you how far he is of Pope's opinion, that

"True self-love and social are the same."

The selfish appetites never exhibit themselves in a more unmasked and more disgusting manner than in the use they excite a man to make of his knife and fork in carving for himself, especially when not at his own cost.

Some keen observer of human nature has said, "Would you know a man's real disposition, ask him to dinner, and give him plenty to drink."

"The Oracle" says, "invite the gentleman to dinner, certainly, and set him to carving." The gentleman who wishes to ensure a hearty welcome, and frequent invitations to the board of hospitality, may calculate with Cockerial correctness, that "the easier he appears to be pleased, the oftener he will be invited." Instead of unblushingly demanding of the fair hostess, that the prime "tit-bit of every dish be put on his plate, he must receive, (if not with pleasure or even content,) with the liveliest expressions of thankfulness, whatever is presented to him; and let him not forget to praise the cook (no matter whether he be pleased with her performance or not), and the same shall be reckoned unto him even as praise to the mistress."

"If he does not like his fare, he may console himself with the reflection, that he need not expose his mouth to the like mortification again. Mercy to the feelings of the mistress of the mansion, will forbid his then appearing otherwise than absolutely delighted with it, notwithstanding it may be his extreme antipathy. If he like it ever so little, he will find occasion to congratulate himself on the advantage his digestive organs will derive from his making a moderate dinner; and consolation from contemplating the double relish he is creating for the following meal, and anticipating the rare and delicious zest of (that best sauce) good appetite, and an unrestrained indulgence of his gourmandizing fancies at the chop-house he frequents."

The following extract from that rare book, GILES ROSE'S School for the Officers of the Mouth, 16mo. 1684, shows that the art of carving was a much more elaborate affair formerly than it is at present.

LE GRAND ESCUVER TRANCHANT, or the Great Master Carver. "The exercise of a master carver is more noble and commendable, it may be, than every one will imagine; for suppose that life to be the foundation of all that is done in the world, this life is not to be sustained without maintaining our natural heat by eating and drinking."

Never trust a cook teaser with the important office of carver, or place him within reach of any principal dish. I shall never forget the following exhibition of a selfish spoiled child: the first dish that Master Johnny mangled, was three mackerel; he cut off the upper side of each fish: next came a couple of fowls; in taking off the wings of which the young gentleman so hideously hacked and miserably mangled every other part, that when they were brought for luncheon the following day, they appeared as if just removed from a conclave of dainty cats, rather than having been carved by a rational creature. When the master of the family, who was extremely near-sighted, sat down to his nooning, in expectation of enjoying the agreeable amusement of having a

"Nice bit of chicken For his own private picking,"

no sooner had he put on his specs, and begun to focus his fowl, than he suddenly started up, rang for the cook, and after having vociferated at her carelessness, and lectured her for being so extremely perfunctory and disorderly in not keeping the cat out of the cupboard, till his appetite for scolding was pretty well satisfied, he paused for her apology: the guardian genius of the pantry, to his extreme astonishment, informed him, that his suspicions concerning the hideous appearance which had so shocked him, was erroneous: such unsightly havoc was not occasioned by the epicurism of a four-legged brute, and that the fowls were exactly in the same state they came from the table, and that young Master Johnny had cut them up himself.

Those in the parlour should recollect the importance of setting a good example to their friends at the second table. If they cut bread, meat, cheese, &c. fairly, it will go twice as far as if hacked and mangled by some sensualists, who appear to have less consideration for their domestics than a good sportsman for his dogs.

A prudent carver will distribute the dainties he is serving out in equal division, and regulate his helps by the proportion his dish bears to the number it is to be divided among, and considering the quantum of appetite the several guests are presumed to possess.

If you have a bird, or other delicacy at table, which cannot be apportioned out to all as you wish, when cut up, let it be handed round by a servant; modesty will then prompt the guests to take but a small portion, and such as perhaps could not be offered to them without disrespect.

Those chop-house cormorants who

"Critique your wine, and analyze your meat, Yet on plain pudding deign at home to eat,"

are generally tremendously officious in serving out the loaves and fishes of other people; for, under the notion of appearing exquisitely amiable, and killingly agreeable to the guests, they are ever on the watch to distribute themselves the dainties[412-*] which it is the peculiar part of the master and mistress to serve out, and is to them the most pleasant part of the business of the banquet; the pleasure of helping their friends is the gratification which is their reward for the trouble they have had in preparing the feast: such gentry are the terror of all good housewives; to obtain their favourite cut they will so unmercifully mangle your joints, that a lady's dainty lapdog would hardly get a meal from them afterward; but which, if managed by the considerative hands of an old housekeeper, would furnish a decent dinner for a large family.

The man of manners picks not the best, but rather takes the worst out of the dish, and gets of every thing (unless it be forced upon him) always the most indifferent fare by this civility, the best remains for others; which being a compliment to all that are present, every body will be pleased with it; the more they love themselves, the more they are forced to approve of his behaviour, and gratitude stepping in, they are obliged, almost whether they will or not, to think favourably of him.

After this manner it is that the well-bred man insinuates himself in the esteem of all the companies he comes in; and if he gets nothing else by it, the pleasure he receives in reflecting on the applause which he knows is secretly given him, is to a proud man more than equivalent for his former self-denial, and overpays self-love, with interest, the loss it sustained in his complaisance to others.

If there are seven or eight apples, or peaches, among people of ceremony, that are pretty nearly equal, he who is prevailed on to choose first, will take that which, if there be any considerable difference, a child would know to be the worst.

This he does to insinuate, that he looks upon those he is with to be of superior merit; and that there is not one whom he does not love better than himself. Custom and general practice make this modish deceit familiar to us, without being shocked at the absurdity of it.

"If people had been used to speak from the sincerity of their hearts, and act according to the natural sentiments they felt within, till they were three or four and forty, it would be impossible for them to assist at this comedy of manners without either loud laughter or indigestion; and yet it is certain, that such a behaviour makes us more tolerable to one another, than we could be otherwise."

The master or mistress of the table should appear to continue eating as long as any of the company; and should, accordingly, help themselves in a way that will enable them to give this specimen of good manners without being particularly observed.

"It belongs to the master and mistress, and to no one else, to desire their guests to eat, and, indeed, carving belongs to nobody but the master and mistress, and those whom they think fit to desire, who are to deliver what they cut to the master or mistress, to be by them distributed at their pleasure."

A seat should be placed for the carver sufficiently elevated to give him a command of the table, as the act of rising to perform this duty is considered ungraceful.

The carving-knife should be light and sharp; and it should be firmly grasped; although in using it, strength is not as essential as skill, particularly if the butcher has properly divided the bones of such joints as the neck, loin, and breast of veal or of mutton.

The dish should not be far from the carver; for when it is too distant, by occasioning the arms to be too much extended, it gives an awkward appearance to the person, and renders the task more difficult.

In carving fish, care should be taken not to break the flakes, and this is best avoided by the use of a fish trowel, which not being sharp, divides it better than a steel knife. Examine this little drawing, and you will see how a cod's head and shoulders should be carved. The head and shoulders of a cod contain the richest and best part of this excellent fish.



The first piece may be taken off in the direction of a b, by putting in the trowel at the back or thick part of the fish, and the rest in successive order. A small part of the sound should be given with each slice, and will be found close to the back-bone, by raising the thin flap d. It is known by being darker coloured and more transparent than the other parts of the fish. Almost every part of a cod's head is considered good; the palate, the tongue, the jelly, and firm parts, e e, upon and immediately around the jaw and bones of the head, are considered as delicate eating by many persons.



A boiled fowl has the legs bent inward (see fig. 2), and fastened to the sides by a skewer, which is removed before the fowl is sent to table. A roasted fowl should not have any part of the legs cut off, as in the boiled fowl; but after they have been properly scraped and washed, they are drawn together at the very extremity of the breast. A boiled and a roasted fowl are each carved in the same manner. The wings are taken off in the direction of a to b (fig. 2). Your knife must divide the joint, but afterward you have only to take firm hold of the pinion with your fork, draw the wings towards the legs, and you will find that the muscles separate better than if you cut them with your knife. Slip your knife between the leg and the body, and cut to the bone, then with the fork turn the leg back, and, if the fowl be not a very old one, the joints will give way.



After the four quarters are thus removed, enter the knife at the breast, in the direction c d (fig. 3), and you will separate the merrythought from the breast-bone; and by placing your knife under it, lift it up, pressing it backward on the dish, and you will easily remove that bone. The collar-bones, e e, lie on each side the merrythought, and are to be lifted up at the broad end, by the knife, and forced towards the breast-bone, till the part which is fastened to it breaks off. The breast is next to be separated from the carcass, by cutting through the ribs on each side, from one end of the fowl to the other. The back is then laid upward, and the knife passed firmly across it, near the middle, while the fork lifts up the other end. The side bone are lastly to be separated; to do which turn the back from you, and on each side the back-bone, in the direction of g g (fig. 4), you will find a joint, which you must separate, and the cutting up of the fowl will be complete.



Ducks and partridges are to be cut up in the same manner; in the latter, however, the merrythought is seldom separated from the breast, unless the birds are very large.

Turkeys and geese have slices cut on each side of the breast-bone, and by beginning to cut from the wing upwards to the breast-bone, many more slices may be obtained than if you cut from the breast-bone to the wings, although I do not think the slices are quite as handsome as if cut in the latter method.



Pigeons (see fig. 6) are either cut from the neck to a, which is the fairest way, or from b to c, which is now the most fashionable mode; and the lower part is esteemed the best.



There are two ways of carving a hare. When it is young, the knife may be entered near the shoulder at a (see fig. 7), and cut down to b, on each side of the backbone; and thus the hare will be divided into three parts. The back is to be again divided into four parts, where the dotted lines are in the cut: these and the legs are considered the best parts, though the shoulders are preferred by some, and are to be taken off in the direction of c d e. The pieces should be laid neatly on the plates, as they are separated, and each plate served with stuffing and gravy. When the hare is old, it is better not to attempt the division down the back, which would require much strength; but the legs should be separated from the body at f, and then the meat cut off from each side, and divided into moderate sized pieces. If the brains and ears are required, cut off the head, and put your knife between the upper and lower jaw, and divide them, which will enable you to lay the upper jaw flat on the dish: then force the point of your knife into the centre, and having cut the head into two parts, distribute the brains with the ears to those who like them.

Rabbits are carved in the same manner as a hare, except that the back is divided only into two pieces, which, with the legs, are considered the most delicate parts.



A ham is generally cut in the direction of a to b, (fig. 8) down to the bone, and through the prime part of the ham. Another way is to cut a small hole at c, and to enlarge it by cutting circular pieces out of it; this method brings you to the best part of the ham directly, and has an advantage over the other in keeping in the gravy.



A leg of mutton is more easily carved than any other joint, but nevertheless there is a mode of doing it neatly, which should be observed. The first slice should be taken out at a (fig. 9), between the knuckle b and the thick end; and the second and subsequent slices should be cut in this direction, until you are stopped by the cramp-bone at c; then turn it up, and take the remaining slices from the back, in a longitudinal direction. When the leg is rather lean, help some fat from the broad end with each slice. The best and most juicy slices are toward the broad end: but some persons prefer the knuckle: and where economy is an object, the knuckle should always be eaten when the joint is hot, as it becomes very dry when cold. If the joint is to be brought again to table, it has a much neater and more respectable appearance if it be helped, altogether, from the knuckle end, when it is hot. This direction may appear trifling; but a good economist knows the importance of carving, when the circumstances of a family require that a joint be brought a second time to table.



A haunch of venison (fig. 10) should be cut down to the bone in the direction of the line a b c, by which means the gravy is allowed to flow out: then the carver, turning the broad end of the haunch toward him, should cut in deep from b to d. He then cuts thin slices in the same direction, taking care to give to each person whom he helps a due proportion of fat, which is, by lovers of venison, highly prized: there is generally more of this delicacy on the left side of b d than on the other side.

A haunch of mutton is carved in the same manner as venison.



A saddle of mutton (fig. 11) is cut from the tail to the end on each side the back-bone, in the direction of the lines a b, continuing downward to the edge c, until it become too fat. The slices should be cut thin, and if the joint be a large one, they may be divided into two parts. The fat will be found on the sides.

A sucking pig is cut up before it is sent to table. The ribs may be divided into two parts as well as the joints. The ribs are considered the finest part, and the neck end under the shoulder. Part of the kidneys should be added to each helping.

A shoulder of mutton, if properly roasted, is supposed to yield many choice pieces, but this depends very much upon the carver. The first cut should be in the direction c b (fig. 12); and, after taking a few slices on each side of the gap which follows the first cut, some good slices may be obtained on each side of the ridge of the shoulder blade, in the direction c d. When the party is numerous, slices may be taken from the under side; and it is on this side, under the edge e, that the fat is found.[419-*]



Buttock of Beef

Is always boiled, and requires no print to point out how it should be carved. A thick slice should be cut off all round the buttock, that your friends may be helped to the juicy and prime part of it. The outside thus cut off, thin slices may then be cut from the top; but as it is a dish that is frequently brought to table cold a second day, it should always be cut handsome and even. When a slice all round would be considered too much, the half, or a third, may be given with a thin slice of fat. On one side there is a part whiter than ordinary, by some called the white muscle. In some places, a buttock is generally divided, and this white part sold separate, as a delicacy; but it is by no means so, the meat being coarse and dry; whereas the darker-coloured parts, though apparently of a coarser grain, are of a looser texture, more tender, fuller of gravy, and better flavoured; and men of distinguishing palates ever prefer them.

FOOTNOTES:

[412-*] He who greedily grapples for the prime parts, exhibits indubitable evidence that he came for that purpose.

[419-*] Another way of carving a shoulder of mutton, and one which many persons prefer, is in slices from the knuckle to the broad end of the shoulder beginning on the outside. See the lines f and g.



INDEX.

The Figures in the body of the Index refer to the Number of the Receipts; those in the column, under the word Page, to where the Receipts are to be found; and those preceded by Ap., to the Receipts in the Appendix.

Page

ACID of lemon, artificial, 407* 274

Accum on Adulterations, quoted, note to 433 280

An alderman in chains, 57 135

A-la-mode beef, or veal, or English turtle, 502 312

Allspice, essence of, 412 275 —— tincture of, 413 ib. —— Sir H. Sloane on, note 92

Almond custards (Ap. 54.) 375

Anchovy sauce, 270 232 —— essence, 433 279 —— toast, 573 354 —— butter,} 434 282 —— paste, } —— powder, 435 ib. —— to keep them well, Obs. to 270 233

Apicius, his sauce for boiled chicken 35

Appetite, good, why the best sauce 52 —— to refresh 38

Appert, his art of preserving vegetables, note 164

Apple pie (Ap. 32.) 369 —— pudding, boiled (Ap. 112.) 397 —— dumplings, ditto (Ap. 113.) ib. —— tart, creamed (Ap. 33.) 369 —— sauce, 304 242

Apples, to dry (Ap. 83.) 384

Apricot jam (Ap. 93.) 387

Artichokes, 136 166 —— Jerusalem, 117 160

Asparagus, 123 161 —— soup, 222 206

Arrack, to imitate, 480 299

Arbuthnot, Dr., quoted, Preface viii.

Abernethy, Mr., quoted, note 20

Bacon, 13 117 —— slices of, 526 324 —— relishing rashers of, 527 ib. —— sparerib, to roast 132

Bain-Marie, note to 485 and 529* 304. 326

Baking 72

Baked custard (Ap. 52.) 375 —— pears (Ap. 82.) 384

Barley water, 565 350 —— broth, 204 199 —— ——, to make a gallon for a groat 210 —— sugar (Ap. 90.) 386 —— drops (Ap. 91.) ib.

Basil, when to dry 291 —— vinegar, or wine, 397 269 —— sauce, 264 231

Batter pudding (Ap. 111.) 397

Beans, French, 133 164

Beauty 51

Bechamel, 364 257

Beef bouilli, 5. 238. 493 109. 212. 308 —— how nutritive and economical, 5 109 —— to salt, 6 111 —— savoury, 496 310 —— a round of, salted, to boil, 7 113 —— what the outside slices are good for, N. B. to 7 ib. —— H-Bone, 8 ib. —— ribs, and rolled, 9 114 —— baron of 34 —— sirloin, roasted, 19 122 —— proper way to carve, in note to 19 123 —— as mock hare, 66* 141 —— ribs, roasted, 20 123 —— ditto, boned and rolled, 21 124 —— steaks, to fry, 85 148 —— steak pudding (Ap. 24.) 367 —— season for, see note to 94 151 —— with onions, 86 148 —— to broil, 94 151 —— the superlative steak ib. —— Macbeth's receipt, and le veritable bif-teck de Beauvilliers, N. B. to 94 152 —— to stew, 500 311 —— with onion gravy, 501 312 —— broth, 185 193 —— broth for glaze, or portable soup or sauce, 252 223 —— gravy, 186 194 —— strong gravy, 188 ib. —— cullis, 189 195 —— for poultry, &c. 329 249 —— shin of, soup, 193 196 —— tea, 563 349 —— to hash, 486 304 —— shin, stewed, 493 308 —— brisket, stewed, 494 310 —— haricot, 495 ib. —— Hunter's savoury, baked or stewed, 496 ib. —— a-la-mode, or English turtle, 502 312 —— to pot, 503 314 —— bubble and squeak, 505 316 —— hashed, and bones broiled, 506 317 —— cold, broiled, &c. 487 304

Beer, to recover when hard, 468 295 —— to bottle, 468 ib. —— cup, 464 294

Beet roots, 127 162 —— —— to pickle (Ap. 119.) 402

Biscuit drops (Ap. 68.) 380

Bishop, essence of, 412 275

Birch, his excellent mock turtle, note under 247 219

Black cock, 71 144

Blancmange (Ap. 46.) 373

BOILING 66

Boiled custard (Ap. 53.) 375

Bouillon de sante, 196 197

Bonne bouche for geese, pork, &c. 341 251

Brandy, how to obtain genuine Cognac 296

BREAD, to make (Ap. 100.) 390 —— sauce, 321 246 —— sippets, fried, 319 ib. —— crumbs, do. 320 ib. —— pudding, 556 344

Broccoli, 126 162 —— pickled, (Ap. 122.) 403

Bride, or wedding cake (Ap. 56.) 376

Brill, 143 169

Brains are sadly dependent on the bowels 20 —— Dr. Cadogan's obs. thereon, note 21

Brain balls 266

BROILING, see the 4th chapter of Rudiments of Cookery 82

Brose, Scotch, 205* 201

Brunswick tourte (Ap. 45.) 373

BROTH, see the 7th chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery 89 —— black 35 —— of fragments 54 —— beef, 185 193 —— to clarify, 252* 227 —— mutton, 194 196 —— mock ditto, 195 197 —— with cutlets, 490 307 —— Scotch barley, 204 199 —— for sick, 564 350

Browning, to colour soup and sauce, &c. 322 246

Bill of fare for a week 56

Buns, plain (Ap. 77.) 382 —— cross (Ap. 78.) 383 —— seed (Ap. 79.) ib. —— plum (Ap. 80.) ib. —— Bath (Ap. 65.) 379

Burnet vinegar has the same taste as cucumber, 399 270 —— —— sauce, 264 231

Burgoo, Scotch, 572* 353

Butler's directions for drying herbs, 461 290 —— —— to market for vegetables 359

Butler, Obs. on the business of a note 39

BUTTER, best manner of melting 228 —— to recover when oiled 229 —— clarified, 259 230 —— burnt, 260 ib. —— oiled, 260* ib.

CATHOLIC FAMILIES, cookery for, 158. 224 178. 207

Cabbage, 118 160 —— boiled and fried, or bubble and squeak, 119. 505 160. 316

Cakes, common seed (Ap. 59.) 377 —— rich, yest (Ap. 60.) 378 —— queen, or heart (Ap. 61.) ib. —— Shrewsbury (Ap. 63.) ib. —— Banbury (Ap. 64.) 379 —— Savoy, or sponge (Ap. 67.) 380 —— Ratafia (Ap. 71.) 381 —— almond sponge (Ap. 72.) ib. —— diet bread (Ap. 74.) ib. —— Derby, or short (Ap. 87.) 385 —— Yorkshire (Ap. 104.) 391

Calf, a fatted, preferred to a starved turtle, 247 221 ——'s head to boil, 10 114 —— —— to hash, 10 115 —— —— ragout, 520 321 —— —— mock turtle, 247 219 —— feet jelly, 481 299

Camp vinegar, 403 271

Carp, stewed, 158 177

Carrots, 129 163 —— soup, 212 201

Carving, best rule for 43 —— ancient terms of, note ib.

Catsup of mushrooms, 439 283 —— double ditto, or dog-sup 284 —— of walnuts, 438 282 —— of oysters, 441 285 —— of cockles, 442 ib. —— of cucumbers, 399 270 —— pudding, 446 285

Caper sauce, 274 233 —— —— mock, 275 ib.

Capon, to roast, 58 136

Capillaire, 476 297

Caramel, to boil sugar to, (Ap. 85.) 385

Cauliflower, 125 162 —— pickled (App. 122.) 403

Caudle, 572 353

Cautions to carvers 44

Cayenne, how to make, 404 272 —— essence of, 405 273

Celery soup, 214 202 —— sauce, 289, 290 238 —— seed, substitute for celery, note 92 —— essence, 409 275

Chantilly basket (Ap. 51.) 375

Cheap soup, 229 208

Cheese and toast, 538*, 539 330 —— toasted, 540 331 —— buttered ditto, 541 ib. —— pounded or potted, 542 ib.

Cheesecakes (Ap. 40.) 371 —— lemon, ditto (Ap. 41.) 372 —— orange, ditto (Ap. 42.) ib. —— almond, ditto (Ap. 43.) ib.

Cherries, dried (Ap. 95.) 387

Chervil sauce, 264 231

Chili vinegar, 405* 273 —— wine, 406 ib.

Chicken. See Fowl. —— pie (Ap. 16.) 364 —— and ham patties (Ap. 29.) 368

Chops, mutton, pork, beef, to broil, 94 151 —— to fry, 85 148 —— to stew, 490 307 —— relish for, 423 278 —— sauce for, 356 255

Cinnamon, essence of, 416 276 —— tincture of, 416* ib.

Claret, best wine for sauces, &c. 95

Clarified syrup, 475 297

Clarify broth, to, 252* 227

Clove and mace, essence of, 414 276 —— —— —— tincture of, 415 ib.

Cockle catchup, 442 285

Cod, boiled, 149 172 —— the tail filleted, note under 149 ib. —— slices boiled, 151 174 —— skull stewed, 158 177 —— shaved, and sold for whitings, Obs. to 153 175

Cold meat, to broil with poached eggs, 487 304 —— ditto, to warm, the best way 54 —— fish 53 —— —— sauce for, 453, 359, and 307 287, 255, 243 —— veal, an excellent dish of, 512 319 —— fowl, ditto, 533 328

Colouring for soup and sauce, 322 246 —— a frequent cause of adulteration, 322 247

Committee of taste 17

Consomme, 252 223

Coffee, to make 340

Cooks, friendly advice to 46 —— hints to 53 —— ditto, when they have a very large dinner 62

Cooks, cause of the scarcity of good ones 310 —— deserve good wages 23 —— a manor given to one by William the Conqueror 22 —— Obs. concerning their health, note 26

Cook-teaser, where not to put him 44

Cooking animals, dine only once a month, note 17

Cookery, Descartes's observations on 19 —— Dr. Johnson's ditto 20 —— theory of, note ib. —— importance of 21 —— Dr. Stark vii. —— the analeptic part of physic 19 —— Dr. Mandeville viii. —— Arbuthnot ib. —— Parmentier x. —— Sylvester's Obs. on, note 20 —— best books on, note ib. —— theory of the processes of, from the Encyclopaedia Brit. note ib. —— opinion of a cook on books of 32

Coquus Magnus, or Master Kitchener 22

Coullis, or thickened gravy, 189 195

Coup d'apres 94

Crab, to boil, 177 188

Crawfish soup, 235 211 —— ditto, pounded alive, recommended by Mons. Clermont, 235 ib.

Cream, clouted, 388 267

Cranberry tart (Ap. 37.) 370

Croquante of paste (Ap. 86.) 385

Cottage potato pudding (Ap. 115.) 398

Crisp parsley, 318 245

Currant jelly, 479* 298

Curry powder, 455 287 —— soup, 249 222 —— sauce, 348 254 —— balls, 382 266 —— to dress, 497 311

Curacoa, how to make, 474 296

Custard pudding 347

Cider cup, 465 294

Culinary curiosities 32

Crane 34

Curlews ib.

Cat in gely ib.

Corks 106

Cement for sealing bottles ib.

Caw-caw bones, N.B. 1 108

Cow heel, to dress, 18* 122

Cress sauce, 264 231 —— vinegar, 397* 269

Cucumber, stewed, 135 165 —— vinegar, 399 270 —— to preserve (Ap. 98.) 389

Carp, to stew, 158 177

Charity, the greatest 24

Crumpets (Ap. 103.) 391

Devil, 538 329 —— his venison 33 —— sauce for 255 —— biscuit, 574 354

Damson cheese (Ap. 89.) 386

Digestion, how important 19

Dripping pan 76

Dripping, to clarify, 83 146 —— Mrs. Melroe and Dr. Stark's Obs. on, 83 147 —— soup 210

Duck, to roast, 61 139 —— bonne bouche for, 341 251 —— to hash, 530 326 —— cold, to warm, 535 329 —— wild, to roast, 74 144

Dutch salad, Obs. to 372 260

Dinner, seven chances against its being properly dressed, note 22 —— hints for preparing a large, p. 62, 63; a good one for 5d., 204 199 —— invitation to 36 —— importance of punctuality, the only act which cannot be postponed 37 —— arrangements of guests at 40 —— rules for behaviour at, from the Accomplished Lady's Delight, note 29 —— hints for providing 38 —— Obs. on second courses, &c. ib. —— punishment for not being punctual at 42 —— Boileau's Obs. on ib. —— Hints to those who dine out 44

Edge bone of beef, see H-bone, 8 113 —— —— ways of spelling 114

Education of a cook's tongue 52

Eels, stewed, Wiggy's way, 164 181 —— pickled, 161 180 —— fried, 165 182 —— pie (Ap. 22.) 366 —— spitchocked, 166 182 —— soup, 225 207

Eggs, to preserve for twelve months, see N.B. to 547 338 —— sauce, 267 232 —— fried with bacon, 545 336 —— ragout, 545* 337 —— with minced bacon, 549 339 —— poached, 546 337 —— ditto, with minced ham, 548 338 —— boiled in the shell, 547 ib. —— ditto, for a salad, 372 260 —— various ways of dressing egg and ham patties (Ap. 88.) 386

Epictetus, a relish for, 27 125

Eschalot sauce, 294 239 —— vinegar, 401 271 —— wine, 402 ib.

Essence of turtle, 343 252

Essence of ham, 351 254 —— where to buy it, 351 ib. —— of mushrooms, 440 285 —— of oysters, 441 ib. —— of anchovy, 433 280 —— of Cayenne, 405 273 —— lemon peel, 407 ib. —— ditto, 408 274 —— of celery, 409 275 —— ginger, 411 ib. —— allspice, 412 ib. —— clove, 414 276 —— mace, 414 ib. —— cinnamon, 416 ib. —— marjoram, 417 277 —— sweet herbs, 417* ib. —— soup herbs, 420 ib. —— eschalot, 402 271 —— soup herbs and savoury spice, 422 277

Epicure, the editor's definition of note 17 —— the temperate man the greatest 19

Economy, the first rule of comfortable, note 61

Fawn, 65 140

Fennel and butter for mackerel, 265 231

Fish, see the 6th chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery 86 —— cold, to redress 53 —— fecundity of, note 86 —— how to market for 358 —— to stew, 158 177 —— soups, 225 207 —— forcemeat, 383 266 —— sauce, 425 278 —— to pickle, 161 180

Forcemeat, to make, 373 262 —— materials used for 263 —— for veal, 375 264 —— for turkey, 377 265 —— for goose, 378 ib. —— for hare, 379 ib. —— balls, for mock turtle and made dishes, 380 ib. —— egg ditto, 381 266 —— curry ditto, 382 ib. —— zest, &c. 386 ib. —— of fish for maigre dishes, 383 ib. —— to mix orange and lemon peel, 387 ib.

Flip, 466 294

Flounders, 155 175

Fowls, to boil one half and roast the other at the same time 33 —— to boil, 16 119 —— to roast, 58 136 —— to broil, 97 154 —— hashed, 533 328 —— pulled, 534 ib. —— to dress cold, 535 329 —— Apicius's sauce for 35

French beans, 133 164 —— —— pickled (Ap. 118.) 402 —— tart of preserved fruit (Ap. 35.) 370 —— bread and rolls (Ap. 100*) 390

Froth roast meat, to 78

Frogges, fried 34

Fare, bill of, for a week 56

Frying 80

Flavour, agents employed to soups and sauces, note under 104

Flounders, fried or boiled, 155 175

Fritters, 558 344

Fruit, to preserve, without sugar (Ap. 99.) 390

Game, to render immediately ripe for roasting 58 —— soup, 242 216

Garlic vinegar, 400 270 —— sauce, 272 233 —— gravy, 311 244

Giblets, stewed, 531 328 —— soup, 244 216 —— pie (Ap. 14.) 363

Gherkins (Ap. 117.) 402

Gigot de Sept Heures, N.B. to 1 108

Ginger, essence of, 411 275 —— preserved (Ap. 97.) 389

Gingerbread nuts (Ap. 76.) 382

Goose, Dr. Stark says is the most nutritive food 138 —— to roast, 59 137 —— ditto, alive 33 —— to persuade one to roast himself! 1 ib. —— how the liver is fattened for the Strasburg pies. In note to 59 137 —— to hash, 530 326 —— green, 60 138 —— mock, 51 131 —— bonne bouche for, 341 251 —— relish for, 341 ib.

Gourds, various ways of dressing 348

GOURMAND defined, note 17

Gourmandize, to guard against, note 24

Gooseberry sauce, 263 231

GRAVY, read the 8th chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery 100 —— for poultry, ragouts, &c., 329 249 —— onion, 299 241 —— garlic, 311 244 —— game, 337 251 —— for wild duck, 338 ib. —— roasted meat, 326 248 —— boiled, 327 249 —— wow wow for salted or stewed beef, 328 249 —— for grills and broils, &c., 355 254 —— for chops and steaks, 356 255 —— relish for chops and steaks, 423 278 —— for cold meat or poultry, &c., 359 255 —— hashes of mutton, &c., 360 256 —— ditto, veal, 361 257 —— for venison, of wine, 344 253 —— of vinegar, 345 ib. —— for venison, of currant jelly, 346 ib. —— of mutton, 347 ib. —— brown colouring for, 322 246 —— portable, 252 223 —— soup, 200 198 —— vegetable, ditto, 224 207

Green pease, 134 164 —— soup, 216 203 —— maigre, ditto, 217 ib.

Green gages, preserved in syrup (Ap. 96.) 388

Grill sauce, 355 254

Grouse, 73 144

Gruel, water, various ways of making and flavouring, 572 352

Guinea fowl, 69* 143

Glasse, Mrs., her Cookery 20

Gridiron 82

Haddock, 157 176 —— Findhorn, ditto, 157* ib.

Haggis, a good Scotch, 488* 305

Ham, to boil, 14 118 —— to pot, 509 318 —— slices of broiled, 526 324 —— essence of, 351 354 —— where to buy, ditto, 351 ib.

Hare, roast, 66 140 —— jugged, 529* 325 —— soup, 241 215 —— mock, 66* 141 —— hashed, 529 325 —— pie (Ap. 11.) 362

Haricot of mutton, lamb, veal, or beef, 489 306 —— of beef, 495 310

Hashes, mutton, 484 303 —— to warm up, 485 304 —— beef, 486 ib. —— veal, 511 318 —— venison, 528 325 —— cold calf's head, 519 321 —— ditto, 10 114 —— calf's head or ragout, 520 321 —— hare, 529 325 —— duck or goose, 530 326 —— poultry, game, or rabbit, 533 328 —— sauce for, 360 256

Haunch (see H.) bone of beef, 8 113

Herbs, when, and how to dry, 461 290

Herrings, pickled, 171 185 —— broiled, 171* ib. —— red ditto, 172 186

Horseradish powder, 458* 289 —— vinegar, 399* 270

Housekeeping, plan of 27 —— book ib.

Horse powdered 34

Hill, Dr., author of Mrs. Glasse's Cookery 20

Hanger, Col., quoted, his hints for guarding against "la Gourmandize," note 23

Hudson, the dwarf, served up in a pie 34

Icing for fruit tarts, &c. (Ap. 31.) 369 —— for twelfth cake (Ap. 84.) 384

Indigestion 38 —— lozenges for, note ib. —— remedy for 39

Invitations, how to send 41 —— to answer ib.

Indian or mixed pickle (Ap. 123.) 404

Independence, the road to 64

Italian salad, see Obs. to 372 260 —— cream (Ap. 48.) 374 —— macaroons (Ap. 70.) 380

Irish stew, Mrs. Phillips's, 488 305 —— ditto, Mr. Morrison's, 488 ib.

Jack, to dress, 158 177

Jacks, Obs. on 74

Jelly, ox heel, 198 197 —— calf's feet, 481 299 —— of currants and other fruits, 479* 298

Jerusalem artichokes, 117 160

Jockey, how to waste 190

JOHNSON'S brandy and liqueurs, 471 296

JOHNSON, Dr., quoted 20

KAY, Mr., of Albion House, wines, &c., Obs. to 94 243

KELLY'S sauce for calf head or cow heel, 311 244 —— ditto, for sauce piquante, 311* ib.

Kid, to roast, 65* 140

Kidneys, to broil, 95 153

Kitchen maid, business of a 25

Kitchen fire place, best ornaments for 64 —— chimney should be swept often 54 —— utensils 89

Kitchiner, Dr., quoted, note, 572 30

LIFE, THE ART OF INVIGORATING AND PROLONGING vii.

Lacedaemon, black broth of 35 —— ditto sauce ib.

Lamb, to broil, 3 109 —— to roast, 40 129 —— sham lamb, ditto, 40 ib. —— hind quarter, 41 ib. —— fore quarter, 42 130 —— leg, 43 ib. —— shoulder, 44 ib. —— to goosify, ditto, note to 51 131 —— ribs, 45 130 —— loin, 46 130 —— neck, 47 ib. —— breast, 48 ib. —— chops, 93 150 —— shoulder, grilled, 491 307 —— lamb's fry, 492 308

Larders, proper, note 57

Larks, 80 146

Lemon chips (Ap. 94.) 387 —— syrup, 391 267 —— sauce, 273 233 —— juice, artificial, 407* 274

Lemon and liver sauce, 287 237 —— peel essence, 407 273 —— quintessence ditto, 408 274 —— tincture ditto, 408* ib.

Lemonade in a minute, 477 297

Liquamen of the Romans 35

Liqueurs, 471 296

Lister, Mrs., leg of beef soup. See shin of beef soup.

Liver of a goose. See note under 59 137 —— and parsley sauce, 287 237 —— ditto for fish, 288 238

Lobster, to roast, 82 146 —— to boil, 176 187 —— sauce, 284 236 —— sauce for lobster, 285 237 —— soup, 237 211 —— potted, 178 183 —— patties (Ap. 27.) 368 —— salad, 372 260 —— spawn, to preserve, N.B. to 284 236

Lozenges 38

Macaroni, 543 332 —— soup, see Obs. to 200 198

Mackerel, boiled, 167 183 —— broiled, 169 184 —— baked, 170 ib. —— pickled, 171 185 —— roe sauce, 266 231

Made dishes, Obs. on. See 9th chapter of Rudiments of Cookery 106 —— —— economical ditto, 483 300

Magazine of Taste 292

Maigre forcemeat, 383 266 —— plum pudding, 554 342

Mandeville, Dr., quoted, Preface viii.

Manners, the importance of good 42

Marjoram, essence of, 417 277

Marrow bones, 544 336

Meat, soup from any, boiled 69

Melroe, Mrs., her Econom. Cookery, quoted, note to 83 147

Melted butter 228

Minced collops 306

Mince pies (Ap. 38.) 371 —— meat (Ap. 39.) 372

Mint sauce, 303 242 —— vinegar, 398 270

Mock turtle soup, 247 219 —— ditto, do. by E. Lister, 245 218

Mille feuilles (Ap. 44.) 372

Moor game, 72 144

Morels, Obs. on 89

Mulled wine, aromatic, essence for, 412 275

Mustard, to make, 370 259 —— to make in a minute, 369 ib. —— ditto, to keep, 427 278 —— seed oil 404

Manners, barbarous, of the sixteenth century 29 —— good effects of good 42 —— bad effects of bad 43

Measures, glass ones 31

Meat, how long it must hang to be tender 57 —— if frozen ib. —— killing it by electricity makes it tender immediately 58

Marketing 61 —— best rule for ib. —— ditto 56

MARKETING TABLES, for meat 355 —— —— poultry 357 —— —— vegetables 359

Meat skreen 77

Meat cakes, 504* 316

Mutton, to boil a leg, 1 108 —— neck, 2 109

Mutton, 23 124 —— roast, a leg, 24 125 —— ditto, saddle, 26 ib. —— shoulder, 27 ib. —— loin, 28 ib. —— neck, 29 126 —— breast, 30 ib. —— haunch, 31 ib. —— ditto, venison fashion, 32 ib. —— or veal pie (Ap. 10.) 362 —— chops, 92 150 —— ditto, stewed, 490 307 —— broth, 194. 564 196. 350 —— —— mock, 195 197 —— to hash, 484 303 —— haricot, 489 306 —— mullaga-tawny soup, 249 222

Mushroom sauce, 305 242 —— ditto, brown, 306 243 —— extempore, 307 ib. —— catchup, 439 283 —— quintessence of, 440 285

Marrow bones, 544 336 —— vegetable 348

Muffins (Ap. 102.) 391

Nutmeg, tincture of, 413* 276 —— grater, the best 65

Omelettes, 543* 333

Onion, Obs. on, note 92 —— pickled (Ap. 121.) 403 —— stewed, 137 166 —— young, sauce, 296 240 —— sauce, 297 ib. —— —— white, 298 240 —— —— brown, 299 241 —— sage and, 300 ib.

Orange jelly (Ap. 47.) 373 —— gingerbread (Ap. 75.) 382

Orgeat (Ap. 81.) 383

Ox cheek, stewed, 507 317 —— —— portable soup of, 252 224

Ox tails, stewed, 508 318

Ox head soup, 239 213

Ox tail soup, 240 214

Ox heel jelly, 198 197 —— —— soup, 240* 214

Oysters, how to feed and preserve their lives, and how to tickle them to death, 181 189 —— certainly not so nutritive as supposed, N.B. to 181 190 —— native, those that are born and bred in the Burnham rivers, note to 181 189 —— essence of, 441 285 —— scalloped, 182 191 —— stewed, 182* 192 —— fried, 183 ib. —— sauce, 278 234 —— preserved in powder, 280 234 —— patties (Ap. 26.) 368

Osborne, H. Cook to Sir J. Banks xi. 52 —— ditto, his receipts for puddings, &c., 560 345

Oatmeal, a substitute for bread crumbs, note 82

Pancakes, 558 344

Paregoric elixir, 570 352

Pharmacopoeia, Appendix to x.

Parmentier, quoted, Preface ib.

Parsley and butter, 261 230 —— to preserve, N.B. to 261 231 —— fried, 317 245 —— crisp, 318 246

Partridges, 70 143 —— soup, 241 215

Paste for croquants, or cut pastry (Ap. 8.) 361 —— for meat or savoury pies (Ap. 2.) 360 —— for boiled puddings (Ap. 6.) 361 —— for stringing tartlets, &c. (Ap. 7.) ib.

Pease, to boil, 134 164 —— pudding, 555 343 —— —— how to make for half the usual expense, note to 555 ib. —— soups, 218. 220 203. 205 —— ditto, in five minutes, Obs. to 555 343 —— curry pease soup, note to 218 205 —— celery ditto, ditto, 218 204 —— plain pease soup, 221 206

Parsnips, 128 163

Peristaltic persuaders 39

Peptic Precepts, quoted ib.

Pease powder, 458 289

Perch, fried, 159 179 —— boiled, 160 179 —— stewed, 158 177

Pheasant, 68 142 —— mock ditto, 69 143 —— criterion of its being "assez mortifiee," Obs. on 68 142

PICKLES, Obs. on 398 —— pounded ib. —— wholesome substitute for, 398, 399

Pigeons, roast, 78 145 —— to broil, 98 154 —— or lark pie (Ap. 13.) 363

Pig, sucking, 56 133

Pettitoes or sucking pig's feet, 12 171

Piquante vinegar, 453 287

Plaice, fried, 155 175

Plain pound cake (Ap. 57.) 377

Plum pudding, 553 341

Plum pudding sauce, 269 232

Plum pound cake (Ap. 58.) 377

Poached eggs, 546 337

Poor man's sauce, 310 243

Poor, soup for, 229 208

Papin, Dr., his Digester, note 223

Pork, the season for it, and the accompaniments, &c., 49 130 —— to roast a leg, 50 131 —— to boil ditto, 11 116 —— to roast without the skin on, 51 131 —— mock goose, 51 ib. —— to lambify the leg of a porkling, see note to 51 ib. —— griskin, 52 132 —— sparerib, 53 ib. —— loin, 54 ib. —— chine, 55 133 —— to salt, 6 112 —— to boil, pickled, 11 116 —— how to score after you have boiled it, 11 ib. —— chops, to fry, 93 150 —— sausages, 87 148

Poivrade sauce, 365 259

Portable soup, 252 223

Pot top, best fat for frying, Obs. to 83 147 —— —— liquor 54 —— —— to convert into pease soup in five minutes, N.B. to 555 343

Potatoes, 16 ways of dressing, 102 155 —— to redress cold, 102* 156 —— boiled and broiled, 103 ib. —— fried in slices, 104 ib. —— fried whole, 105 157 —— mashed, 106 ib. —— ditto, with onion, 107 ib. —— escalloped, 108 ib. —— roasted, 109 158 —— under meat, 110 ib. —— balls, 111 ib. —— savoury, 112 ib. —— snow, 114 ib. —— gipsy pie, 115 159 —— new, 116 ib. —— mucilage or starch, 448 286 —— flour ib. —— colcannon, 108* 157

Potted beef, veal, game, &c., 503 314 —— —— veal, game, &c., why in season at the same time as mock turtle, note under 247 219

Potted ham, &c., 509 318

Prawns, 175 187

Poultry, to render immediately ripe for roasting 58 —— marketing tables for 357

Pudding, my, 554 341 —— plum, 553 ib. —— ditto, do. sauce for, 269 232 —— suet, 551 340 —— Yorkshire, 552 341 —— pease, 555 343 —— macaroni, 543 332 —— batter 346 —— bread and butter, boiled and baked, 557 344 —— Boston apple 345 —— spring fruit ib. —— Nottingham ib. —— Newmarket 346 —— Newcastle or cabinet ib. —— Vermicelli ib. —— bread ib. —— custard 347 —— boiled ditto ib. —— college (Ap. 105.) 395 —— rice, baked or boiled ib. —— ground ib. —— save-all (Ap. 110.) 396

Puddings and pies, Obs. on 392

Pudding catchup, 446 285

Puff paste (Ap. 1.) 360

Pulled turkey, chicken, &c., 534 328

Punch, directly, 478 298 —— essence of, to make, 479 ib.

Purger souvent les Cuisiniers (de la necessite) 26

Pig's pettitoes, 12 117

Politeness, ancient rules for, note 29

Porpus 33

Pie, Jeffery Hudson served up in one 34

Provisions, how to procure the best, 61. 357

Pepper, Obs. on 93 —— double headed boxes 65

Queen's drops (Ap. 62.) 378

Quin's sauce, 425 278 —— ditto, Obs. on Ann Chovy's marriage, in note to 433 281

Rabbit, roast, 67 142 —— boiled, 17 121 —— broiled, 97 154 —— soup, 241 215 —— pie (Ap. 17.) 365 —— a Welch, 539 330

Ragout beef, see Obs. to 493 309 —— sauce, 329 249 —— savoury powder, 457 288 —— quintessence of ditto, 460 290 —— of poultry, to dress, 530* 327 —— breast of veal, 517 319 —— raised pies (Ap. 5.) 361 —— French pies (Ap. 18.) 365 —— ham pie (Ap. 19.) ib. —— pork pie (Ap. 21.) 366 —— lamb pie (Ap. 23.) ib.

Raspberry vinegar, 390 266 —— wine or brandy, 469 295 —— jam (Ap. 92.) 387

Red cabbage, pickled (Ap. 120.) 403

Rhubarb, various ways of dressing 347

Rice blancmange (Ap. 109.) 396 —— pudding (Ap. 106.) 395 —— ground pudding (Ap. 107.) ib. —— sauce, 321* 246 —— snowballs (Ap. 108.) 396

Ripe fruit tarts (Ap. 30.) 369

ROASTING, see the 2d chapter of Rudiments of Cookery 74

Robert sauce for pork and geese, 342 252

Roe boat ditto, see Obs. to 342 ib.

Rouge, see note to 433 281

Roux, see Obs. to 257 229

Rump steak, broiled, 94 151 —— —— stewed, 500 311 —— —— do. with onion gravy, 501 312 —— —— pie (Ap. 15.) 364

Romans ate five meals a day 34 —— their favourite dishes 35 —— liquamen and garum ib.

Sack posset, Sir F. Shepherd's, 467* 295

Sage and onion sauce, 300 241

Sally Lunn tea cakes (Ap. 101.) 390

Salt, to prepare for table, 371 260

Salt fish, 150 173

Salting meat, 6 111 —— to make it red, 6 ib. —— to make it savoury, 6 112 —— to pickle meat ib.

Sandwiches, 504 316

Save-all pudding (Ap. 110.) 396

SCOTCH haggis, 488* 305 —— collops, 517 321 —— ditto, minced 306 —— gravy, see Obs. to 326 248 —— brose, 205* 201 —— barley broth, 204 199 —— beef, note 123 —— soups, 205 200 —— winter hotch potch, 205 ib. —— leek soup, or cocky leeky, 205 201 —— lamb stew, 205 ib.

Salads, Evelyn's directions about, 138 and 372 166. 260 —— Dutch, French, Italian, &c., Obs. to 372 261

Salad sauce, 372 and 453 260. 287

Salmon, pickled, 161 180 —— boiled, 162 ib. —— broiled, 163 181

SAUCE, before you make, read the 8th chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery 100 —— anchovy, 270 232 —— apple, 304 242 —— basil vinegar or wine, 397 269 —— balls for mock turtle, 380 265 —— bechamel, 364 257 —— bottled oyster, 278 234 —— beef gravy, for poultry, 329 249 —— bonne bouche for a goose, 341 251 —— bread, 321 246 —— browning, 322 ib. —— butter, melted, 256 228 —— burnt, ditto, 260 230 —— clarified, ditto, 259 ib. —— oiled, ditto, 260* ib. —— to recover, N.B. to 256 229 —— catchup of mushrooms, 439 283 —— of walnuts, 438 282 —— of cockles, &c., 442 285 —— for puddings, 446 ib. —— camp vinegar, 403 271 —— caper, 274 233 —— celery, 289 238 —— ditto, brown, 290 ib. —— chervil, 264 231 —— Chili vinegar, 405 273 —— crisp parsley, 318 245 —— cucumber, 135 165 —— curry, 348 254 —— egg, 267 232 —— essence of turtle, 343* 252 —— —— of ham, 351 254 —— —— of mushrooms, 440 285 —— —— of oysters, 441 ib. —— —— of Cayenne, 405 273 —— —— of anchovy, 433 280 —— —— of lemon peel, 407 274 —— quintessence of ditto, 408 ib. —— —— essence of celery, 409 275 —— —— of ginger, 411 ib. —— —— of allspice, 412 ib. —— —— of clove,} 414 276 —— —— of mace, } —— —— of cinnamon, 416 ib. —— —— of soup herbs, 420 277 —— —— of soup herb and savoury spice, 422 ib. —— —— of eschalot, 402 271 —— —— of punch, 479 298 —— eschalot, 294 239 —— ditto, vinegar, 401 271 —— fennel and butter for mackerel, &c., 265 232 —— fish, 425 278 —— forcemeat, to make, 373 262 —— forcemeat balls for mock turtle, 380 265 —— egg balls, 381 266 —— curry ditto, 382 ib. —— fish forcemeat, 383 ib. —— zest ditto, 386 ib. —— for veal, 375 264 —— to mix orange or lemon peel, 387 266 —— gravy for poultry, ragouts, &c., 329 249 —— ditto for game, 337 251 —— ditto for wild duck, 338 ib. —— ditto of onion, 299 241 —— ditto of garlic, 311 244 —— ditto for roasted meat, 326 248 —— ditto for boiled ditto, 327 249 —— wow wow, for boiled beef, 328 ib. —— wine, see venison, 344 253 —— vinegar for venison, 345 ib. —— mutton ib. —— for grills, 355 254 —— for chops and steaks, 356 255 —— for cold meat or poultry, 359 ib. —— for hashes of mutton, &c., 360 256 —— for ditto of veal, 361 257 —— relish for chops, 423 278 —— gooseberry, 263 231 —— garlic, 272 233 —— ditto gravy, 311 244 —— ditto vinegar, 400 270 —— M. Kelly's, for calf's head or cow heel, 311* 244 —— ditto, ditto, piquante, 311* ib. —— lemon, syrup of, 391 267 —— lemonade in a minute, 477 297 —— lemon, 273 233 —— ditto, and liver, or parsley and liver sauce, 287 237 —— liver, for fish, 288 238 —— lobster, 284 236 —— for lobster, 285 237 —— mackerel roe, 266 231 —— green mint, 303 242 —— vinegar, 398 270 —— mushroom, 305 242 —— ditto, brown, 306 243 —— ditto, in five minutes, 307 ib. —— mustard, to make, 370 259 —— ditto, in a minute, 369 ib. —— ditto, to keep, 427 278 —— oyster, 278 234 —— bottled, ditto, 280 ib. —— onion, 297 240 —— ditto, white, for rabbits, &c. 298 ib. —— young onion, 296 ib. —— fried, or brown onion, 299 241 —— sage and onion, 300 ib. —— ox heel jelly, 198 197 —— parsley and butter, 261 230 —— ditto, fried, 317 244 —— ditto, crisp, 318 245 —— pease powder, 458 289 —— pickles, 462 292 —— piquante vinegar, 453 287 —— plum pudding, 269 232 —— poivrade, 365 259 —— poor man's, 310 243 —— potato mucilage, 448 286 —— ragout sauce, 329 249 —— ragout powder, 457 288 —— quintessence of ragout powder, 460 290 —— rice, 321* 246 —— salad mixture, 372 260 —— salad, 453 287 —— superlative, 429 278 —— box, 462 59. 292

Savoy biscuits (Ap. 69.) 380

Savoys, 120 160

Savoury salt beef, 496 310

Savoury pies, pasties, &c. (Ap. 12.) 363

Soup herb powder, or vegetable relish, 459 289

Shrimps, potted, 175 187

Shrimp sauce, 283 235

Shrub, 479 298

Small puffs of preserved fruit, (Ap. 36.) 370

Snipes, 77 144

Soda water, Obs. on, note 38

Sorrel sauce, 291 238

Sponge biscuits, (Ap. 66.) 379

Sprouts, 121 160

Sparerib of bacon, to roast, 53 132

Spices, Obs. on, 429 279

Soup herb and savoury powder, 460 290 —— spirit, 420, 421, 422 277

Spinage, 122 160

Stock, first, note to 185 193 —— second, note to 185 194

Stuffing, 373 262 —— for hare, 379 265 —— for goose, 378 ib. —— for turkey, 377 ib. —— for veal, 374 264

Suet pudding, 551 340

Syrup, clarified, 475 297 —— of lemon peel, 393 268 —— of lemon, 391 267 —— of orange, 392 268

Stomach, an Englishman's cooking kettle, Dr. Hunter's Obs. on; Waterhouse's ditto, note 15 —— the machinery of life 19 —— Dr. Cheyne's Obs. on; Abernethy's ditto 20

Stomachic tincture, 569 352

Spectacles for Gourmands, note 23

Spring fruit, various ways of dressing 347

Sprats, to broil, 170* 185 —— to pickle, 171 185 —— to stew, 170** ib. —— to fry, 173 187

Servants, Rev. Wm. Watkins' excellent institution for the encouragement of 25 —— friendly advice to 46 —— maxims for 49

Swan 33

Seals 34

Skate, 148 172

Soups, under the name of the article they are made of.

Soup, Obs. on 89 —— cheap 91 —— and bouilli, 238 212

Steaks, 85, 94 148. 151

Stew pan 89

Suet, to clarify for frying, &c. 84 147 —— puddings 393

Sausages, to fry, 87 148

Sweetbread, to fry, 88 149 —— do. plain, 89 ib.

Sweet, or short and crisp tart paste (Ap. 4.) 360

Sea kale, 124 162

Soles, to boil, 144 169 —— to fry, 145 ib. —— to stew, 146, 158, 164 171. 177. 181 —— filleted, 147 171

Skate, fried, 154 175

Sturgeon, 152 174

Tart paste (Ap. 3.) 360

Tartlets (Ap. 34.) 370

Taste, the Committee of, Preface xi. —— the Magazine of, 462 63. 292 —— varieties of 51

Tastes, six simple, note 53

Tamis, note to, 189 195

Tankard, cool, 464 294

Tarragon sauce, 264 232 —— vinegar, 396 268

Tea, to make, 550 339

Tender, to make meat 58

Tewahdiddle, 467 294

Thickening, or roux, 257 229 —— ditto 98

Toast and water, 463 293 —— and cheese, 539 330

Toasted cheese, 540 331

Tomato sauce, 292 239 —— mock ditto, 293 ib.

Tongue to boil, 15 119 —— what the roots are good for, Obs. to 15 ib.

Toothache, cure for, 567 351

Tripe, 18 121

Trifle (Ap. 49.) 374

Truffles, Obs. on 95

Turbot, to boil, 140 167

Turkey, to boil, 16 119 —— to fatten and whiten, 16 ib. —— roast, 57 134 —— hash, &c. 533 328 —— pulled, 534 ib.

Turnips, 130 163 —— to mash, 131 164

Turnip-tops, 132 164 —— soup, 213 202

Turtle, to dress, 250 223 —— mock ditto, 247, &c. 219 —— Birch's ditto, excellent note to 247 ib. —— mock mock, ditto, 245 218 —— English, 248 222 —— sauce, 343 252 —— essence, 343* ib. —— hints to turtle eaters, Obs. to 493 309 —— 2500 pounds of, eaten at one dinner, note to 250 223

Twelfth cake (Ap. 55.) 376

Vauxhall nectar, to imitate, 480 299

Veal, to boil, 4 109 —— to roast, 33 127 —— fillet, 34 ib. —— loin, 35 128 —— shoulder, 36 ib. —— neck, best end, 37 ib. —— breast, 38 ib. —— sweetbread, 39 ib. —— cutlet, 90 149 —— ditto, sauce for, 90 ib. —— ditto, full dressed, 521 322 —— broth, 191 195 —— gravy, 192 ib. —— knuckle soup, 193 196 —— stuffing, Roger Fowler's, 374 264 —— forcemeat, 375 ib. —— breast, stewed, 515 319 —— minced, 511* 318 —— hashed, 511 ib. —— sauce for, 361 257 —— excellent hot ragout of cold veal, 512 319 —— potted, 503 314 —— breast ragout, 517 319 —— ditto, with pease, note to 517 320 —— olives, 518 321 —— cutlets, broiled, 521 322 —— knuckle, to ragout, 522 323 —— with rice, 523 ib. —— Gay's receipt, ditto, 524 ib. —— and ham patties (Ap. 28.) 368 —— —— —— pie (Ap. 20.) 366

Vegetables, Obs. on. See the 5th chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery 83

Vegetable essences, to extract, 417.* 277 —— marrow 348 —— marketing tables for 359

Venison, to roast a haunch, 63 139 —— neck or shoulder, 64 140 —— to hash, 528 325 —— to vensonify mutton, 32 126 —— the Devil's 33 —— wine sauce for, 344 253 —— sharp ditto for, 345 ib. —— sweet ditto, 346 ib. —— mutton gravy, 347 ib. —— pasty (Ap. 9.) 362

Vinegar sauce for venison, 345 253 —— burnet or cucumber, 399 270 —— basil, 397 269 —— cress, 397* ib. —— garlic, 400 270 —— horseradish, 399* ib. —— eschalot, 401 271 —— camp, 403 ib. —— piquante, 453 287 —— for salads, 395 268 —— tarragon, 396 ib. —— raspberry, 390 267 —— sweet and savoury herbs, spices, &c., Obs. to 396 269 —— green mint, 398 270 —— pyroligneous, Obs. on 397* 269

Vol au vent (Ap. 25.) 367

Walnuts, to pickle (Ap. 116.) 401

Walnut catchup, 438 282

Water gruel, immediately, 572 352 —— various relishes for, 572 ib.

Water souchy, 156 175

Watkins, the Rev. G., his hints to heads of families 25

Welsh rabbit, 539 330

Wheatears, 81 146

White sauce, 364, 365 258 —— wine whey, 566 351

Whitings, fried, 153 174

Whip syllabub (Ap. 50.) 375

Widgeons and teal, 75 144

Wild ducks, 74 ib.

Wine sauce for venison, &c., 344 253 —— eschalot, 402 271

Woodcock, 76 144 —— has the same honours paid to it as the Grand Lama, note to 76 ib.

Wow wow sauce for boiled beef, 328 249

Weights and measures for cookery, table of 64

Weight, the diminution that takes place in cooking 70

Yorkshire pudding, 552 341

THE END



Transcriber's Note

The following typographical errors were corrected.

Page Error viii DR. MANDEVILLE changed to Dr. MANDEVILLE x avail nothing. changed to avail nothing, xiii Confectionary, changed to Confectionery 17 PALATEABLENESS changed to PALATABLENESS 18 appetite."—MILTON changed to appetite."—MILTON. 18 noxious, [text missing] every changed to noxious, and that every based on comparison with a different edition of the book 31 "For instance: changed to For instance: 32 shoulder of mutton," changed to "shoulder of mutton," 33 BOILED; changed to BOILED;" Fn. 15-* WATERHOUSE' changed to WATERHOUSE'S Fn. 17-* A. C., Jun. changed to A. C., Jun. Fn. 20-* DR. CHEYNE changed to Dr. CHEYNE FN. 30-* l'esprit du corps changed to l'esprit de corps 43 (No. 530.[+]) changed to (No. 530.*) 48 your enemies.' changed to your enemies." 56 head.(No. changed to head (No. 62 DIAL (all caps) changed to DIAL (small caps) Fn. 55-* tools. changed to tools." Fn. 66-* pp. 3. 6. changed to pp. 3, 6. 77 made wtih changed to made with 82 And as now changed to "And as now 85 vigilant attention changed to vigilant attention. 94 eshallot changed to eschalot 96 is delightful changed to is delightful. 98 made (No. 185* changed to made (No. 185 Fn. 91-* No 440 changed to No. 440 Fn. 91-[+] No. 299. changed to No. 299, Fn. 92-# acid milder changed to acid milder. Fn. 93-Sec. Monsieur's remarks changed to Monsieur's remarks, 104 eshalots, changed to eschalots, 109 eshalot changed to eschalot 114 table-spoonsful changed to table-spoonfuls 118 Ham,(No. 14.) changed to Ham,—(No. 14.) 118 Grimmed for table changed to Trimmed for table 120 No. 2 of No. 361 changed to No. 2 of No. 364 123 No. 67* changed to No. 66* 126 quarter changed to quarter. Fn. 123-* Ibid changed to Ibid. Fn. 123-* No. 67* changed to No. 66* 154 No. 521 and No. 91 changed to No. 521 and No. 90 157 escaloped. changed to escalloped. 173 (NO. 145) changed to (No. 145) 179 beshamell changed to bechamel 183 No. 67. changed to No. 167. 191 note under No. 185* changed to note under No. 185 Fn. 168-* same uality changed to same quality 195 beef broth (No. 185*) changed to beef broth (No. 185) 195 see No. 364* changed to see No. 364 201 put in at changed to put in it 204 into this soup. changed to into this soup, 212 No. 5. changed to No. 5.) 213 (No. 329.) changed to (No. 239.) Fn. 193-[+] "The Art of changed to The Art of Fn. 219-* The footnote marker was missing from the footnote and was added. Fn. 223-[+] note under No. 185* changed to note under No. 185 240 with the onions changed to with the onions, 249 beef,(as changed to beef, (as 257 NB. To hash changed to N.B. To hash 257 minced Veal changed to minced Veal. 258 White Sauce. changed to White Sauce.— 262 to the rest" changed to to the rest." 263 (No 397) changed to (No. 397) 275 p. 200 changed to p. 200. 281 red, &c; changed to red, &c.; 292 tea and changed to tea- and 293 into a mug. changed to into a mug, 295 bottled ale changed to bottled ale. 298 Jelly.[298-*] changed to Jelly.[298-*]— 299 2-1/2d. changed to 2-1/2d. Fn. 278-* which is changed to (which is 304 beef, &c; changed to beef, &c.; 307 Mutton Broth, changed to Mutton Broth,— 309 foot of page 266 changed to foot of page 220 315 see Nos. 185* changed to see Nos. 185 316 the cabbage.' changed to the cabbage." 317 No. 67* changed to No. 66* 320 wide, i e. changed to wide, i. e. 321 (No. 518. changed to (No. 518.) 325 beans, &c changed to beans, &c. 334 accompanied by it. changed to accompanied by it, 341 Gipsies' way. changed to Gipsies' way.— 347 for bakingare changed to for baking are 353 Obs. on Health changed to Obs. on Health Fn. 304-* note to No. 529 changed to note to No. 529* Fn. 314-* mellow changed to mellow. Fn. 338-[+] The night before changed to "The night before 356 Do do. changed to Do. do. (line below Roasted (No. 35).) 356 Broiled. (No. 521). changed to Broiled (No. 521). 358 Wooodcock changed to Woodcock 359 Feb. & Mar changed to Feb. & Mar. (Broccoli line) 361 Cut Pastry changed to Cut Pastry. 363 No. 455 changed to (No. 455 373 No. 47 changed to No. 47.) 380 (No. 69. changed to (No. 69.) 411 private picking, changed to private picking," 414 fig 3 changed to fig. 3 415 cutting up of of changed to cutting up of 418 The rips may changed to The ribs may 421 Under Barley, the second and third lines had missing text. It was filled in based on the recipe numbers and confirmed with another edition of the book. —— broth, —— ——, 422 (Ap. 119) changed to (Ap. 119.) 423 538,* 539 changed to 538*, 539 423 tail filletted changed to tail filleted 424 Obs. to 372 260 changed to Obs. to 372 261 424 Eschalot sauce changed to Eschalot sauce, 424 386 ib changed to 386 ib. 425 Sept Heur s changed to Sept Heures 425 note 24 changed to note 23 426 Obs. to 372 260 changed to Obs. to 372 261 427 note 92 changed to note 91 427 (Ap. 121) changed to (Ap. 121.) 427 &c.(Ap. 7.) changed to &c. (Ap. 7.) 430 Spinnage, changed to Spinage, 430 378 ib changed to 378 ib. 430 377 ib changed to 377 ib. 431 Birch s changed to Birch's

THE END