 |
[Tea should only be made as an infusion,—that is, pouring boiling hot water upon it, and letting it stand a few minutes to draw. A.]
[340-*] See Dr. Houghton on Coffee, in vol. xxi. of the Phil. Trans. page 311.
[The best of coffee is imported into this country, and can be had cheap and good. A.]
[343-*] To increase the bulk and diminish the expense of this pudding, the economical housekeeper, who has a large family to feed, may now add two pounds of potatoes that have been boiled and well mashed. To many this mixture is more agreeable than pease pudding alone. See also No. 107.
[350-*] Ground barley, or barley-meal, is sold in this city; with which barley-water gruel or a panada may be readily made, for the sick, or for soups. A.
MARKETING TABLES,
Showing the seasons when MEAT, POULTRY, and VEGETABLES, are BEST and CHEAPEST.
MEAT.
- - Weight Weight of Meat of Bone before after BEEF. it was being dressed. dressed. THE HIND QUARTER. - - lb. oz. lb. oz. per lb. 13 0 1 8 1. Sirloin 0 9 Roasted (No. 19). 20 0 4 0 2. Rump 0 9 {Steak to Broil (No. { 94), to Stew (Nos. { 500 and 501). 11 0 1 4 3. Edge-Bone 0 6 Boiled (No. 8). 13 12 1 8 4. Buttock, or 0 7 {Ditto (No. 7), or Round { Savoury Salted { Beef (No. 496). 5. Mouse ditto 0 6 {For Alamode Beef { (No. 502). 6. Veiny Piece 0 7 {Generally Baked or { Salted. 11 0 1 8 7. Thick Flank 0 6 Salted. 8. Thin ditto 0 6-1/2 Ditto. 9. Leg 0 2-1/2 {Soup of (No. 193), { Stewed (No. 493) THE FORE QUARTER. per lb. 14 4 1 12 10. Fore Ribs, 0 9 {Roasted (No. 20), 6 Ribs { Boned and Rolled { (No. 21). 11. Middle do., 0 7 Ditto. 3 do. 12. Chuck do., 0 5 For making Gravy. 3 do. 13. Shoulder, or}0 6 For Steaks or Soup. Leg of } Mutton Piece} {For Stewing (No. 14. Brisket 0 6 { 494), or Haricot { (No. 495), or { Salted. 15. Clod 0 4-1/2 {Principally used for { Beef Sausages. 8 4 0 10 16. Neck, or } 0 3-1/2 {Ditto, or making Sticking } { Soup. Piece } {Excellent Scotch 9 0 2 4 17. Shin 0 2-1/2 { Barley Broth (No. { 204), and Stewed { (No. 493). 18. The Head {Soup of (No. 239), { Stewed, (No. 507); { and The Tail {Do. (No. 240), do. { (No. 508.) The Heels {Boiled (No. 18*), { Jelly of (No. { 198), Soup (No. { 240*). MUTTON. lb. oz. lb. oz. per lb. 8 0 0 13 1. Leg } { Boiled (No. 1), or 2. Loin, best} { Roasted (No. 24). end } 0 8 { Do. (No. 1,) 3. Do., chump} { Roasted (No. 28), end } { Chops. { Do. (No. 2.) 6 0 0 8 4. Neck, best} 0 7 { Roasted (No. 29), end } { Irish Stew (No. { 488), Haricot (No. { 489), Stewed (No. { 490). 5. Do., scrag} {To make Broth (No. end } 0 5 { 194). 8 4 1 0 6. Shoulder 0 7 Roasted (No. 27). 7. Breast 0 5 {Grilled (Obs. to {No. 38). Head Broth. The Chine, or} the Saddle, } two Loins, } {Roasted (No. 31), The Haunch }0 8 { Venisonified (No. is a Leg, } { 32). and part of } the Loin } VEAL. per lb. 1. Loin, best} 0 11 Roasted (No. 35). end } 2. Do., chump} 0 11 Do. do. end } {Roasted (No. 34), to 3. Fillet 1 1 { make Veal Olives { (No. 518), Scotch { Collops (No. { 517*). 4. Knuckle, } 0 7 {To Ragout (No. Hind } { 522), to Stew (No. The whole} 0 10-1/2 { 523), Soup of Leg } { (No. 193). 9 0 1 0 5. Neck, best} 0 11 Roasted (No. 37). end } 5 0 0 10 6. Do., scrag} 0 8 Do. do. end } The whole} 0 9-1/2 Neck } 7. Blade Bone 0 10 Roasted. {Stewed (No. 515); to 8. Breast, best}0 11 { Ragout (No. 517), end } { to Curry (No. { 497). 9. Do., brisket}0 10 {Stewed (No. 515); to end } { Ragout (No. 517). 10. Knuckle,} 0 7 Same as Hind Fore } Knuckle. The head, {Boiled, plain (No. with the skin { 10), to Hash (Nos. on { 10 and 520). Do., skinned Cutlets {Fried (No. 90), { Broiled (No. 521). - -
The Nos. refer to the receipts for dressing.
In the foregoing table, we have given the proportions of bone to meat,—the former not being weighed till cooked, by which, of course, its weight was considerably diminished.
These proportions differ in almost every animal,—and from the different manner in which they are cut.
Those who pay the highest, do not always pay the dearest price. In fact, the best meat is the cheapest; and those who treat a tradesman liberally, have a much better chance of being well served, than those who are for ever bargaining for the market penny. In dividing the joints, there is always an opportunity of apportioning the bones, fat, flaps, &c., so as to make up a variation of much more than a penny per pound in most pieces; and a butcher will be happy to give the turn of his knife in favour of that customer who cheerfully pays the fair price of the article he purchases:—have those who are unwilling to do so any reason to complain?—have they not invited such conduct?
The quality of butcher's meat, varies quite as much as the price of it, according to its age, how it has been fed, and especially how it has been treated the week before it has been killed.
The following statements were sent to us by a very respectable tradesman:—
Beef is best and cheapest from Michaelmas to Midsummer. The price, per pound, now varies from 4d. to 1s.
Veal is best from March to July. The price varies according to the season and the supply; and the quality differs so much, that the same joints now sell from 5d. to 11d. per pound.
Mutton is best from Christmas to Midsummer; the difference in price between the worst and the best, is now from 5d. to 9d. per pound.
Grass lamb is best from Easter to June; house lamb from Christmas to June.
POULTRY.
+ + + + + Poultry. Come into Continue. Cheapest. Season. + + + + + {Spring chickens To be had all the} Chickens { April year } November. Poulards, with March Till June December. eggs {Dearest in April, To be had all the} Fowls { May, and June year } November. Capons {Largest at Ditto {October and Christmas {November. Green Geese March Till September do. Geese September February do. Turkey poults April June do. Turkeys September March do. Ducklings March May do. Ducks June February do. {December; Wild ducks September Till ditto {but the flights {are uncertain. Widgeons Teal Plovers Larks November Till March Ditto. Wheatears July And during August Wild pigeons March Till September August. Tame do. Tame rabbits All the year Wild do. June Till February November. Sucking pigs All the year Leverets March Till September Hares September Partridges Do. Pheasants October Grouse August Moor game Till March Woodcock snipes November + + + + +
Cocks' combs, fat livers, eggs, &c. are dearest in April and May, and cheapest in August.
Fowls' heads may be had three for a penny; a dozen will make a very good pie or soup, like No. 244.
Turkey heads, about a penny each.
Duck giblets, about three half-pence a set; four sets will make a tureen of good soup for sixpence. See No. 244.
Obs.—Poultry is in greatest perfection when in greatest plenty.
The price of it varies as much as the size and quality of it, and the supply at market, and the demand for it.
It is generally dearest from March to July, when the town is fullest; and cheapest about September, when the game season commences, and the weather being colder, allows of its being brought from more distant parts, and the town becoming thin, there is less demand for it.
The above information will, we trust, be very acceptable to economical families, who, from hearing the very high price poultry sometimes costs, are deterred from ever inquiring about it. In the cheap seasons, we have noted, it is sometimes as cheap as butcher's meat.
VEGETABLES.
The public are frequently, from want of regular information when the proper seasons arrive for vegetables, put to much inconvenience in attending the markets, taking unnecessary inquiries, &c.
The following list, it is presumed, will afford much useful information to the reader:—
+ + -+ + -+ Names of Vegetables. Earliest Earliest When time for natural cheapest. forced. growth. + + -+ + -+ Artichokes (No. 136) July on to October September. Ditto Jerusalem From Sept. to June { Nov. Dec. & (No. 117) { foll. months. Angelica stalks, } { Middle of May, and } June. for preserving } { whole of June } Asparagus (No. 123) {Begin. of Mid. of April, May,} June and { Jan. June, and July } July. Beans, French, or} {Early in End of June, or } August. Kidneys } { Feb. beginning of July} Scarlet ditto July September. Windsor beans, long } June July & Aug. pods and early kinds } Beet, red (No. 127) All the year Dec. & Jan. Ditto, white, the leaves July Borcole, or Scotch } November Dec. & Jan. Cale, or Kale. } Broccoli (No. 126) October Feb. & Mar. Cabbage (No. 118) May and June July. Ditto, red July and August August. Ditto, white October October. Cardoons { Nov. and three December. { following months Carrots (No. 129) May August. Cauliflowers (No. 125) Beginning of June July & Aug. Celery (No. 289) Ditto September November. Chervil April June. Corn salad May Chervil (No. 264) { March, and through May. { the year Cucumbers (No. 135) March Beginning of July Aug. & Sep. Endive { June, and through Sep. & Oct. { the year Eschalots, for keeping} { August, and through Sep. & two (No. 402) } { the year fol. months. Leeks { September, and six Novem. and { months after December. Lettuce, Coss April June, July, Ditto, cabbage and Aug. Onions, for keeping { Aug. Sep. and October and { following months November. Parsley (No. 261) { Feb. and through February & { the year March. Parsnips (No. 128) { October, and July. { continue until May Pease (No. 134) Beg. or } June, July, and August, and mid. of } following months fol. month. May } Potatoes (No. 102, &c.) March } May, and through June, } the year May & June. Radishes Begin. of } End of March, and June. March } following months Ditto, turnip, red and} Ditto June. white } Ditto, black, Spanish { August, and September. { following months Small salad (No. 372) All the year May & June. Salsify July, August August. Scorzonera Sea Kale (No. 124) Dec. & Jan. April and May May. Savoury cabbage { September, and November. { following months Sorrel All the year June & July. Spinage, spring { March, April, and June & July. { following months Ditto, winter { Oct. Nov. and November. { following months Turnips { May, June, and June & July. { following months Ditto, tops (No. 132) { March, April, and April and { May May. Ditto, for salad April and May June and Ditto, Welch February July. + + -+ + -+
APPENDIX;
COMPRISING
DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING
PASTRY, PRESERVES, BREAD, PUDDINGS, PICKLES, &c. &c.
Puff Paste.—(No. 1.)
To a pound and a quarter of sifted flour rub gently in with the hand half a pound of fresh butter; mix up with half a pint of spring water; knead it well, and set it by for a quarter of an hour; then roll it out thin, lay on it, in small pieces, three quarters of a pound more of butter, throw on it a little flour, double it up in folds, and roll it out thin three times, and set it by for an hour in a cold place.
Paste for Meat or Savoury Pies.—(No. 2.)
Sift two pounds of fine flour to one and a half of good salt butter, break it into small pieces, and wash it well in cold water; rub gently together the butter and flour, and mix it up with the yelk of three eggs, beat together with a spoon; and nearly a pint of spring-water; roll it out, and double it in folds three times, and it is ready.
Tart Paste for Family Pies.—(No. 3.)
Rub in with the hand half a pound of butter into one pound and a quarter of flour, mix it with half a pint of water, and knead it well.
Sweet, or short and crisped Tart Paste.—(No. 4.)
To one pound and a quarter of fine flour add ten ounces of fresh butter, the yelks of two eggs beat, and three ounces of sifted loaf sugar; mix up together with half a pint of new milk, and knead it well. See No. 30.
N.B. This crust is frequently iced.
Raised Pies.—(No. 5.)
Put two pounds and a half of flour on the pasteboard; and put on the fire, in a saucepan, three quarters of a pint of water, and half a pound of good lard; when the water boils, make a hole in the middle of the flour, pour in the water and lard by degrees, gently mixing the flour with it with a spoon; and when it is well mixed, then knead it with your hands till it becomes stiff: dredge a little flour to prevent its sticking to the board, or you cannot make it look smooth: do not roll it with the rolling-pin, but roll it with your hands, about the thickness of a quart pot; cut it into six pieces, leaving a little for the covers; put one hand in the middle, and keep the other close on the outside till you have worked it either in an oval or a round shape: have your meat ready cut, and seasoned with pepper and salt: if pork, cut in small slices; the griskin is the best for pasties: if you use mutton, cut it in very neat cutlets, and put them in the pies as you make them; roll out the covers with the rolling-pin just the size of the pie, wet it round the edge, put it on the pie, and press it together with your thumb and finger, and then cut it all round with a pair of scissors quite even, and pinch them inside and out, and bake them an hour and a half.
Paste for boiled Puddings.—(No. 6.)
Pick and chop very fine half a pound of beef suet, add to it one pound and a quarter of flour, and a little salt: mix it with half a pint of milk or water, and beat it well with the rolling-pin, to incorporate the suet with the flour.
Paste for stringing Tartlets, &c.—(No. 7.)
Mix with your hands a quarter of a pound of flour, an ounce of fresh butter, and a little cold water; rub it well between the board and your hand till it begins to string; cut it into small pieces, roll it out, and draw it into fine strings, lay them across your tartlets in any device you please, and bake them immediately.
Paste for Croquants or Cut Pastry.—(No. 8.)
To half a pound of fine flour put a quarter of a pound of sifted loaf sugar; mix it well together with yelks of eggs till of a good stiffness.
Venison Pasty.—(No. 9.)
Take a neck, shoulder, or breast of venison, that has not hung too long; bone them, trim off all the skin, and cut it into pieces two inches square, and put them into a stew-pan, with three gills of Port wine, two onions, or a few eschalots sliced; some pepper, salt, three blades of mace, about a dozen allspice, and enough veal broth to cover it; put it over a slow fire, and let it stew till three parts done; put the trimmings into another saucepan, cover it with water, and set it on a fire. Take out the pieces you intend for the pasty, and put them into a deep dish with a little of their liquor, and set it by to cool; then add the remainder of the liquor to the bones and trimmings, and boil it till the pasty is ready; then cover the pasty with paste made like No. 5; ornament the top, and bake it for two hours in a slow oven; and before it is sent to table, pour in a sauce made with the gravy the venison was stewed in, strained and skimmed free from fat; some pepper, salt, half a gill of Port, the juice of half a lemon, and a little flour and butter to thicken it.
Mutton or Veal Pie.—(No. 10.)
Cut into chops, and trim neatly, and cut away the greatest part of the fat of a loin, or best end of a neck of mutton (the former the best), season them, and lay them in a pie dish, with a little water and half a gill of mushroom catchup (chopped onion and potatoes, if approved); cover it with paste (No. 2), bake it two hours; when done, lift up the crust from the dish with a knife, pour out all the gravy, let it stand, and skim it clean; add, if wanted, some more seasoning; make it boil, and pour it into the pie.
Veal pie may be made of the brisket part of the breast; but must be parboiled first.
Hare Pie.—(No. 11.)
Take the hare skinned and washed, cut it into pieces, and parboil it for two minutes to cleanse it; wash it well, and put it in a stew-pot with six eschalots chopped, a gill of Port wine, a small quantity of thyme, savoury, sweet marjoram, and parsley, tied in a bunch, four cloves, and half a dozen allspice; cover it with veal broth, and stew it till half done; pick out the prime pieces, such as the back, legs, &c. (leaving the remainder to stew till the goodness is quite extracted); take the parts preserved, and fill them into a dish with some water, and cover it with paste as No. 2; bake it an hour; strain the gravy from the trimmings, thicken it a little, and throw in half a gill of Port, the juice of half a lemon, and pour it into the pie boiling hot; line the bottom of the dish with Hare stuffing (No. 379), or make it into forcemeat balls.
Pies of game and wild fowl are made in like manner; and as the following receipt for Pigeon pie.
Savoury Pies, Pasties, and Patties.—(No. 12.)
The piquance of pies may be regulated ad libitum, by sprinkling the articles with zest (No. 255), curry powder (No. 455, and see Nos. 457 and 459), or by covering the bottom of the dish with any of the forcemeats enumerated in Nos. 373 to 385, and making it into balls; lay one ring of these, and another of hard-boiled eggs cut in halves, round the top of the pie; and instead of putting in water, put strong gravy. After the pies are baked, pour in through a funnel any of the various gravies, sauces, &c.: truffles, mushrooms, wine, spices, pickles, &c. are also added. See also Nos. 396 to 402.
MEM. These are dishes contrived rather to excite appetite than to satisfy it. Putting meat or poultry into a pie is certainly the very worst way of cooking it; it is often baked to rags; and very rarely indeed does a savoury pie come to table that deserves to be introduced to the stomach.
Pigeon or Lark Pie.—(No. 13.)
Truss half a dozen fine large pigeons as for stewing, season them with pepper and salt; lay at the bottom of the dish a rump-steak of about a pound weight, cut into pieces and trimmed neatly, seasoned, and beat out with a chopper: on it lay the pigeons, the yelks of three eggs boiled hard, and a gill of broth or water, and over these a layer of steaks; wet the edge of the dish, and cover it over with puff paste (No. 1), or the paste as directed for seasoned pies (No. 2); wash it over with yelk of egg, and ornament it with leaves of paste and the feet of the pigeons; bake it an hour and a half in a moderate-heated oven: before it is sent to table make an aperture in the top, and pour in some good gravy quite hot.
Giblet Pie.—(No. 14.)
Clean well, and half stew two or three sets of goose giblets: cut the legs in two, the wing and neck into three, and the gizzard into four pieces; preserve the liquor, and set the giblets by till cold, otherwise the heat of the giblets will spoil the paste you cover the pie with: then season the whole with black pepper and salt, and put them into a deep dish; cover it with paste as directed in No. 2, rub it over with yelk of egg, ornament and bake it an hour and a half in a moderate oven: in the meantime take the liquor the giblets were stewed in, skim it free from fat, put it over a fire in a clean stew-pan, thicken it a little with flour and butter, or flour and water, season it with pepper and salt, and the juice of half a lemon; add a few drops of browning, strain it through a fine sieve, and when you take the pie from the oven, pour some of this into it through a funnel. Some lay in the bottom of the dish a moderately thick rump-steak: if you have any cold game or poultry, cut it in pieces, and add it to the above.
Rump-Steak Pie.—(No. 15.)
Cut three pounds of rump-steak (that has been kept till tender) into pieces half as big as your hand, trim off all the skin, sinews, and every part which has not indisputable pretensions to be eaten, and beat them with a chopper: chop very fine half a dozen eschalots, and add them to half an ounce of pepper and salt mixed; strew some of the mixture at the bottom of the dish, then a layer of steak, then some more of the mixture, and so on till the dish is full; add half a gill of mushroom catchup, and the same quantity of gravy, or red wine; cover it as in the preceding receipt, and bake it two hours.
N.B. Large oysters, parboiled, bearded, and laid alternately with the steaks, their liquor reduced and substituted instead of the catchup and wine, will be a variety.
Chicken Pie.—(No. 16.)
Parboil, and then cut up neatly two young chickens; dry them; set them over a slow fire for a few minutes; have ready some veal stuffing or forcemeat (No. 374 or No. 375), lay it at the bottom of the dish, and place in the chickens upon it, and with it some pieces of dressed ham; cover it with paste (No. 1). Bake it from an hour and a half to two hours; when sent to table, add some good gravy, well seasoned, and not too thick.
Duck pie is made in like manner, only substituting the duck stuffing (No. 378), instead of the veal.
N.B. The above may be put into a raised French crust (see No. 18) and baked; when done, take off the top, and put a ragout of sweetbread to the chickens.
Rabbit Pie.—(No. 17.)
Made in the same way; but make a forcemeat to cover the bottom of the dish, by pounding a quarter of a pound of boiled bacon with the livers of the rabbits; some pepper and salt, some pounded mace, some chopped parsley, and an eschalot, thoroughly beaten together; and you may lay some thin slices of ready-dressed ham or bacon on the top of your rabbits. "This pie will ask two hours baking," says Mrs. Mary Tillinghast, in page 29 of her 12mo. vol. of rare receipts, 1678.
Raised French Pie.—(No. 18.)
Make about two pounds of flour into a paste, as directed (No. 5); knead it well, and into the shape of a ball; press your thumb into the centre, and work it by degrees into any shape (oval or round is the most general), till about five inches high; put it on a sheet of paper, and fill it with coarse flour or bran; roll out a covering for it about the same thickness as the sides; cement its sides with the yelk of egg; cut the edges quite even, and pinch it round with the finger and thumb, yelk of egg it over with a paste-brush, and ornament it in any way fancy may direct, with the same kind of paste. Bake it of a fine brown colour, in a slow oven; and when done, cut out the top, remove the flour or bran, brush it quite clean, and fill it up with a fricassee of chicken, rabbit, or any other entree most convenient. Send it to table with a napkin under.
Raised Ham Pie.—(No. 19.)
Soak a small ham four or five hours; wash and scrape it well; cut off the knuckle, and boil it for half an hour; then take it up and trim it very neatly; take off the rind and put it into an oval stew-pan, with a pint of Madeira or sherry, and enough veal stock to cover it. Let it stew for two hours, or till three parts done; take it out and set it in a cold place; then raise a crust as in the foregoing receipt, large enough to receive it; put in the ham, and round it the veal forcemeat; cover and ornament; it will take about an hour and a half to bake in a slow oven: when done, take off the cover, glaze the top, and pour round the following sauce, viz. take the liquor the ham was stewed in; skim it free from fat; thicken with a little flour and butter mixed together; a few drops of browning, and some Cayenne pepper.
P.S. The above is, I think, a good way of dressing a small ham, and has a good effect cold for a supper.
Veal and Ham Pie.—(No. 20.)
Take two pounds of veal cutlet, cut them in middling-sized pieces, season with pepper and a very little salt; likewise one of raw or dressed ham cut in slices, lay it alternately in the dish, and put some forced or sausage meat (No. 374, or No. 375) at the top, with some stewed button mushrooms, and the yelks of three eggs boiled hard, and a gill of water; then proceed as with rump-steak pie.
N.B. The best end of a neck is the fine part for a pie, cut into chops, and the chine bone taken away.
Raised Pork Pie.—(No. 21.)
Make a raised crust, of a good size, with paste (as directed in No. 5), about four inches high; take the rind and chine bone from a loin of pork, cut it into chops, beat them with a chopper, season them with pepper and salt, and fill your pie; put on the top and close it, and pinch it round the edge; rub it over with yelk of egg, and bake it two hours with a paper over it, to prevent the crust from burning. When done, pour in some good gravy, with a little ready-mixed mustard (if approved).
N.B. As the above is generally eaten cold, it is an excellent repast for a journey, and will keep for several days.
Eel Pie.—(No. 22.)
Take eels about half a pound each; skin, wash, and trim off the fin with a pair of scissors, cut them into pieces three inches long, season them with pepper and salt, and fill your dish, leaving out the heads and tails. Add a gill of water or veal broth, cover it with paste (No. 2), rub it over with a paste-brush dipped in yelk of egg, ornament it with some of the same paste, bake it an hour; and when done, make a hole in the centre, and pour in the following sauce through a funnel: the trimmings boiled in half a pint of veal stock, seasoned with pepper and salt, a table-spoonful of lemon-juice, and thickened with flour and water, strained through a fine sieve: add it boiling hot.
Raised Lamb Pies.—(No. 23.)
Bone a loin of lamb, cut into cutlets, trim them very nicely, and lay them in the bottom of a stew or frying-pan, with an ounce of butter, a tea-spoonful of lemon-juice, and some pepper and salt: put them over a fire, and turn them and put them to cool; then raise four or five small pies with paste (as No. 6), about the size of a tea-cup; put some veal forcemeat at the bottom, and the cutlets upon it; roll out the top an eighth of an inch thick, close and pinch the edges, bake them half an hour, and when done take off the top, and pour in some good brown sauce.
Beef-Steak Pudding.—(No. 24.)
Get rump-steaks, not too thick, beat them with a chopper, cut them into pieces about half the size of your hand, and trim off all the skin, sinews, &c.; have ready an onion peeled and chopped fine, likewise some potatoes peeled and cut into slices a quarter of an inch thick; rub the inside of a basin or an oval plain mould with butter, sheet it with paste as directed for boiled puddings (No. 7); season the steaks with pepper, salt, and a little grated nutmeg; put in a layer of steak, then another of potatoes, and so on till it is full, occasionally throwing in part of the chopped onion; add to it half a gill of mushroom catchup, a table-spoonful of lemon-pickle, and half a gill of water or veal broth; roll out a top, and close it well to prevent the water getting in; rinse a clean cloth in hot water, sprinkle a little flour over it, and tie up the pudding; have ready a large pot of water boiling, put it in, and boil it two hours and a half; take it up, remove the cloth, turn it downwards in a deep dish, and when wanted take away the basin or mould.
Vol au Vent.—(No. 25.)
Roll off tart paste (No. 3) till about the eighth of an inch thick: then, with a tin cutter made for that purpose (about the size of the bottom of the dish you intend sending to table), cut out the shape, and lay it on a baking-plate, with paper; rub it over with yelk of egg; roll out good puff paste (No. 1) an inch thick, stamp it with the same cutter, and lay it on the tart paste; then take a cutter two sizes smaller, and press it in the centre nearly through the puff paste; rub the top with yelk of egg, and bake it in a quick oven about twenty minutes, of a light brown colour: when done, take out the paste inside the centre mark, preserving the top, put it on a dish in a warm place, and when wanted, fill it with a white fricassee of chicken, rabbit, ragout of sweetbread, or any other entree you wish.
Oyster Patties.—(No. 26.)
Roll out puff paste a quarter of an inch thick, cut it into squares with a knife, sheet eight or ten patty pans, put upon each a bit of bread the size of half a walnut; roll out another layer of paste of the same thickness, cut it as above, wet the edge of the bottom paste, and put on the top, pare them round to the pan, and notch them about a dozen times with the back of the knife, rub them lightly with yelk of egg, bake them in a hot oven about a quarter of an hour: when done, take a thin slice off the top, then, with a small knife or spoon, take out the bread and the inside paste, leaving the outside quite entire; then parboil two dozen of large oysters, strain them from their liquor, wash, beard, and cut them into four, put them into a stew-pan with an ounce of butter rolled in flour, half a gill of good cream, a little grated lemon-peel, the oyster liquor, free from sediment, reduced by boiling to one half, some Cayenne pepper, salt, and a tea-spoonful of lemon-juice; stir it over a fire five minutes, and fill the patties.
Lobster Patties.—(No. 27.)
Prepare the patties as in the last receipt. Take a hen lobster already boiled; pick the meat from the tail and claws, and chop it fine; put it into a stew-pan, with a little of the inside spawn pounded in a mortar till quite smooth, an ounce of fresh butter, half a gill of cream, and half a gill of veal consomme, Cayenne pepper, and salt, a tea-spoonful of essence of anchovy, the same of lemon-juice, and a table-spoonful of flour and water: stew it five minutes.
Veal and Ham Patties.—(No. 28.)
Chop about six ounces of ready-dressed lean veal, and three ounces of ham very small; put it into a stew-pan with an ounce of butter rolled into flour, half a gill of cream; half a gill of veal stock; a little grated nutmeg and lemon-peel, some Cayenne pepper and salt, a spoonful of essence of ham and lemon-juice, and stir it over the fire some time, taking care it does not burn.
Chicken and Ham Patties.—(No. 29.)
Use the white meat from the breast of chickens or fowls, and proceed as in the last receipt.
Ripe Fruit Tarts.—(No. 30.)
Gooseberries, damsons, morrello cherries, currants mixed with raspberries, plums, green gages, white plums, &c. should be quite fresh picked, and washed: lay them in the dish with the centre highest, and about a quarter of a pound of moist or loaf sugar pounded to a quart of fruit (but if quite ripe they will not require so much); add a little water; rub the edges of the dish with yelk of egg; cover it with tart paste (No. 4), about half an inch thick; press your thumb round the rim, and close it well; pare it round with a knife; make a hole in the sides below the rim; bake it in a moderate-heated oven; and ten minutes before it is done, take it out and ice it, and return it to the oven to dry.
Icing for Fruit Tarts, Puffs, or Pastry.—(No. 31.)
Beat up in a half-pint mug the white of two eggs to a solid froth; lay some on the middle of the pie with a paste-brush; sift over plenty of pounded sugar, and press it down with the hand; wash out the brush, and splash by degrees with water till the sugar is dissolved, and put it in the oven for ten minutes, and serve it up cold.
Apple Pie.—(No. 32.)
Take eight russetings, or lemon pippin apples; pare, core, and cut not smaller than quarters; place them as close as possible together into a pie-dish, with four cloves; rub together in a mortar some lemon-peel, with four ounces of good moist sugar, and, if agreeable, add some quince jam; cover it with puff paste; bake it an hour and a quarter. (Generally eaten warm.)
Apple Tart creamed.—(No. 33.)
Use green codlings, in preference to any other apple, and proceed as in the last receipt. When the pie is done, cut out the whole of the centre, leaving the edges; when cold, pour on the apple some rich boiled custard, and place round it some small leaves of puff paste of a light colour.
Tartlets, such as are made at the Pastry Cooks.—(No. 34.)
Roll out puff paste (No. 1,) of a quarter of an inch thick, cut it into pieces, and sheet pans about the size of a crown piece, pare them round with a knife, and put a small quantity of apricot, damson, raspberry, strawberry, apple, marmalade, or any other kind of jam (No. 92), in the centre; take paste (No. 7), and string them crossways; bake them from six to ten minutes in a quick oven: they should be of a very light brown colour.
French Tart of preserved Fruit.—(No. 35.)
Cover a flat dish, or tourte pan, with tart paste (No. 4), about an eighth of an inch thick; roll out puff paste (No. 1), half an inch thick, and cut it out in strips an inch wide; wet the tart paste, and lay it neatly round the pan by way of a rim; fill the centre with jam or marmalade of any kind, ornament it with small leaves of puff paste, bake it half an hour, and send it to table cold.
N.B. The above may be filled before the puff paste is laid on, neatly strung with paste, as No. 7, and the rim put over after.
Obs.—The most general way of sending tourtes to table, is with a croquante of paste (No. 86), or a caramel of spun sugar (No. 85), put over after it is baked.
Small Puffs of preserved Fruit.—(No. 36.)
Roll out, a quarter of an inch thick, good puff paste (No. 1), and cut it into pieces four inches square; lay a small quantity of any kind of jam on each, double them over, and cut them into square, triangle, or, with a tin cutter, half moons; lay them with paper on a baking-plate; ice them (as at No. 31), bake them about twenty minutes, taking care not to colour the icing.
Cranberry Tart.—(No. 37.)
Take Swedish, American, or Russian cranberries, pick and wash them in several waters, put them into a dish, with the juice of half a lemon, a quarter of a pound of moist or pounded loaf sugar, to a quart of cranberries. Cover it with puff (No. 1) or tart paste (No. 4), and bake it three quarters of an hour; if tart paste is used, draw it from the oven five minutes before it is done, and ice it as No. 31, return it to the oven, and send it to table cold.
Mince Pies.—(No. 38.)
Sheet with tart paste (No. 4), half a dozen of tin pans of any size you please; fill them with mince meat (No. 39), and cover with puff paste, a quarter of an inch thick; trim round the edges with a knife, make an aperture at the top with a fork, bake them in a moderate-heated oven, and send them to table hot, first removing the tin.
N.B. Some throw a little sifted loaf sugar over.
Mince Meat.—(No. 39.)
Two pounds of beef suet, picked and chopped fine; two pounds of apple, pared, cored, and minced; three pounds of currants, washed and picked; one pound of raisins, stoned and chopped fine; one pound of good moist sugar; half a pound of citron, cut into thin slices; one pound of candied lemon and orange-peel, cut as ditto; two pounds of ready-dressed roast beef, free from skin and gristle, and chopped fine; two nutmegs, grated; one ounce of salt, one of ground ginger, half an ounce of coriander seeds, half an ounce of allspice, half an ounce of cloves, all ground fine; the juice of six lemons, and their rinds grated; half a pint of brandy, and a pint of sweet wine. Mix the suet, apples, currants, meat-plums, and sweetmeats, well together in a large pan, and strew in the spice by degrees; mix the sugar, lemon-juice, wine, and brandy, and pour it to the other ingredients, and stir it well together; set it by in close-covered pans in a cold place: when wanted, stir it up from the bottom, and add half a glass of brandy to the quantity you require.
N.B. The same weight of tripe is frequently substituted for the meat, and sometimes the yelks of eggs boiled hard.
Obs.—The lean side of a buttock, thoroughly roasted, is generally chosen for mince meat.
Cheesecakes.—(No. 40.)
Put two quarts of new milk into a stew-pan, set it near the fire, and stir in two table-spoonfuls of rennet: let it stand till it is set (this will take about an hour); break it well with your hand, and let it remain half an hour longer; then pour off the whey, and put the curd into a colander to drain; when quite dry, put it in a mortar, and pound it quite smooth; then add four ounces of sugar, pounded and sifted, and three ounces of fresh butter; oil it first by putting it in a little potting-pot, and setting it near the fire; stir it all well together: beat the yelks of four eggs in a basin, with a little nutmeg grated, lemon-peel, and a glass of brandy; add this to the curd, with two ounces of currants, washed and picked; stir it all well together; have your tins ready lined with puff paste (No. 1), about a quarter of an inch thick, notch them all round the edge, and fill each with the curd. Bake them twenty minutes.
When you have company, and want a variety, you can make a mould of curd and cream, by putting the curd in a mould full of holes, instead of the colander: let it stand for six hours, then turn it out very carefully on a dish, and pour over it half a pint of good cream sweetened with loaf sugar, and a little nutmeg. What there is left, if set in a cool place, will make excellent cheesecakes the next day.
Lemon Cheesecakes.—(No. 41.)
Grate the rind of three, and take the juice of two lemons, and mix them with three sponge biscuits, six ounces of fresh butter, four ounces of sifted sugar, a little grated nutmeg and pounded cinnamon, half a gill of cream, and three eggs well beaten; work them with the hand, and fill the pans, which must be sheeted as in the last receipt with puff paste, and lay two or three slices of candied lemon-peel, cut thin, upon the top.
Orange Cheesecakes.—(No. 42.)
To be made in the same way, omitting the lemons, and using oranges instead.
Almond Cheesecakes.—(No. 43.)
Blanch six ounces of sweet, and half an ounce of bitter almonds; let them lie half an hour in a drying stove, or before the fire; pound them very fine in a mortar, with two table-spoonfuls of rose or orange-flower water, to prevent them from oiling; set into a stew-pan half a pound of fresh butter; set it in a warm place, and cream it very smooth with the hand, and add it to the almonds, with six ounces of sifted loaf sugar, a little grated lemon-peel, some good cream, and four eggs; rub all well together with the pestle; cover a patty-pan with puff paste; fill in the mixture; ornament it with slices of candied lemon-peel and almonds split, and bake it half an hour in a brisk oven.
Mille Feuilles, or a Pyramid of Paste.—(No. 44.)
Roll out puff paste (No. 1,) half an inch thick; cut out with a cutter made for the purpose, in the shape of an oval, octagon, square, diamond, or any other form, (and to be got of most tinmen,) observing to let the first piece be as large as the bottom of the dish you intend sending it to table on: the second piece a size smaller, and so on in proportion, till the last is about the size of a shilling; lay them with paper on a baking-plate, yelk of egg the top, and bake them of a light brown colour: take them from the paper, and when cold put the largest size in the dish, then a layer of apricot jam; then the next size, a layer of raspberry jam, and so on, varying the jam between each layer of paste to the top, on which place a bunch of dried fruit, and spin a caramel (No. 85) of sugar over it.
Brunswick Tourte.—(No. 45.)
Make a crust as for vol au vent (No. 25); pare and core with a scoop eight or ten golden pippins; put them into a stew-pan, with a gill of sweet wine, and four ounces of sifted loaf sugar, a bit of lemon-peel, a small stick of cinnamon, and a blade of mace; stew them over a slow fire till the apples are tender; set them by: when cold, place them in the paste, and pour round them some good custard (No. 53).
Blancmange.—(No. 46.)
Boil for a few minutes a pint and a half of new milk, with an ounce of picked isinglass (if in summer, one ounce and a quarter), the rind of half a lemon, peeled very thin, a little cinnamon, and a blade of mace, and two and a half ounces of lump sugar: blanch and pound eight or ten bitter, and half an ounce of sweet almonds very fine, with a spoonful of rose water, and mix them with the milk; strain it through a lawn sieve or napkin into a basin, with half a pint of good cream. Let it stand half an hour; pour it into another basin, leaving the sediment at the bottom, and when nearly cold fill it into moulds: when wanted, put your finger round the mould; pull out the blancmange; set it in the centre of a dish, and garnish with slices of orange.
N.B. About half a gill of noyeau may be substituted for the almonds.
Orange Jelly.—(No. 47.)
Boil in a pint of water one ounce and a quarter of picked isinglass, the rind of an orange cut thin, a stick of cinnamon, a few corianders, and three ounces of loaf-sugar, till the isinglass is dissolved; then squeeze two Seville oranges or lemons, and enough China oranges to make a pint of juice: mix all together, and strain it through a tamis or lawn sieve into a basin; set it in a cold place for half an hour; pour it into another basin free from sediment; and when it begins to congeal, fill your mould: when wanted, dip the mould into lukewarm water; turn it out on a dish, and garnish with orange or lemon cut in slices, and placed round.
N.B. A few grains of saffron put in the water will add much to its appearance.
Italian Cream.—(No. 48.)
Rub on a lump of sugar the rind of a lemon, and scrape it off with a knife into a deep dish or china bowl, and add half a gill of brandy, two ounces and a half of sifted sugar, the juice of a lemon, and a pint of double cream, and beat it up well with a clean whisk; in the meantime, boil an ounce of isinglass in a gill of water till quite dissolved; strain it to the other ingredients; beat it some time, and fill your mould; and when cold and set well, dish it as in the foregoing receipt.
N.B. The above may be flavoured with any kind of liqueur, raspberry, strawberry, or other fruits, coloured with prepared cochineal, and named to correspond with the flavour given.
Trifle.—(No. 49.)
Mix in a large bowl a quarter of a pound of sifted sugar, the juice of a lemon, some of the peel grated fine, half a gill of brandy, and ditto of Lisbon or sweet wine, and a pint and a half of good cream; whisk the whole well, and take off the froth as it rises with a skimmer, and put it on a sieve; continue to whisk it till you have enough of the whip; set it in a cold place to drain three or four hours; then lay in a deep dish six or eight sponge biscuits, a quarter of a pound of ratafia, two ounces of Jordan almonds blanched and split, some grated nutmeg and lemon-peel, currant jelly and raspberry jam, half a pint of sweet wine, and a little brandy; when the cakes have absorbed the liquor, pour over about a pint of custard, made rather thicker than for apple pie; and, when wanted, lay on lightly plenty of the whip, and throw over a few nonpareil comfits.
Whip Syllabub.—(No. 50.)
Make a whip as in the last receipt; mix with a pint of cream, half a pint of sweet wine, a glass of brandy, the juice of a lemon, grated nutmeg, six ounces of sifted loaf sugar: nearly fill the custard-glasses with the mixture, and lay on with a spoon some of the whip.
Chantilly Basket.—(No. 51.)
Dip into sugar boiled to a caramel (See No. 85) small ratafias, stick them on a dish in what form you please, then take ratafias one size larger, and having dipped them into the sugar, build them together till about four or five inches high; make a rim of York drops or drageas of gum paste, likewise a handful of sugar or ratafia, and set it over the basket; line the inside with wafer-paper, and a short time before it is wanted, fill it with a mixture the same as for trifle, and upon that plenty of good whip.
Baked Custard.—(No. 52.)
Boil in a pint of milk, a few coriander seeds, a little cinnamon and lemon-peel; sweeten with four ounces of loaf sugar, and mix with it a pint of cold milk; beat well eight eggs for ten minutes, and add the other ingredients; pour it from one pan into another six or eight times, strain it through a sieve, and let it stand some time; skim off the froth from the top, fill it in earthen cups, and bake them immediately in a hot oven, give them a good colour; about ten minutes will do them.
Boiled Custard.—(No. 53.)
Boil in a pint of milk, five minutes, lemon-peel, corianders, and cinnamon, a small quantity of each, half a dozen of bitter almonds, blanched and pounded, and four ounces of loaf sugar: mix it with a pint of cream, the yelks of ten eggs, and the whites of six, well beaten; pass it through a hair-sieve, stir it with a whisk over a slow fire till it begins to thicken, remove it from the fire, and continue to stir it till nearly cold; add two table-spoonfuls of brandy, fill the cups or glasses, and grate nutmeg over.
Almond Custards.—(No. 54.)
Blanch and pound fine, with half a gill of rose water, six ounces of sweet, and half an ounce of bitter almonds; boil a pint of milk as No. 52; sweeten it with two ounces and a half of sugar; rub the almonds through a fine sieve, with a pint of cream; strain the milk to the yelks of eight eggs, and the whites of three well-beaten; stir it over a fire till it is of a good thickness; take it off the fire, and stir it till nearly cold, to prevent its curdling.
N.B. The above may be baked in cups, or in a dish, with a rim of puff paste put round.
Twelfth Cake.—(No. 55.)
Two pounds of sifted flour, two pounds of sifted loaf sugar, two pounds of butter, eighteen eggs, four pounds of currants, one half pound of almonds blanched and chopped, one half pound of citron, one pound of candied orange and lemon-peel cut into thin slices, a large nutmeg grated, half an ounce of ground allspice; ground cinnamon, mace, ginger, and corianders, a quarter of an ounce of each, and a gill of brandy.
Put the butter into a stew-pan, in a warm place, and work it into a smooth cream with the hand, and mix it with the sugar and spice in a pan (or on your paste board) for some time; then break in the eggs by degrees, and beat it at least twenty minutes; stir in the brandy, and then the flour, and work it a little; add the fruit, sweetmeats, and almonds, and mix all together lightly; have ready a hoop cased with paper, on a baking-plate; put in the mixture, smooth it on the top with your hand, dipped in milk; put the plate on another, with sawdust between, to prevent the bottom from colouring too much: bake it in a slow oven[376-*] four hours or more, and when nearly cold, ice it with No. 84.
This mixture would make a handsome cake, full twelve or fourteen inches over.
Obs.—If made in cold weather, the eggs should be broken into a pan, and set into another filled with hot water; likewise the fruit, sweetmeats, and almonds, laid in a warm place, otherwise it may chill the butter, and cause the cake to be heavy.
Bride, or Wedding Cake.—(No. 56.)
The only difference usually made in these cakes is, the addition of one pound of raisins, stoned and mixed with the other fruit.
Plain Pound Cake.—(No. 57.)
Cream, as in No. 55, one pound of butter, and work it well together with one pound of sifted sugar till quite smooth; beat up nine eggs, and put them by degrees to the butter, and beat them for twenty minutes; mix in lightly one pound of flour; put the whole into a hoop, cased with paper, on a baking-plate, and bake it about one hour in a moderate oven.
An ounce of caraway-seeds added to the above, will make what is termed a rich seed cake.
Plum Pound Cake.—(No. 58.)
Make a cake as No. 57, and when you have beaten it, mix in lightly half a pound of currants, two ounces of orange, and two ounces of candied lemon-peel cut small, and half a nutmeg grated.
Common Seed Cake.—(No. 59.)
Sift two and a half pounds of flour, with half a pound of good Lisbon or loaf sugar, pounded into a pan or bowl; make a cavity in the centre, and pour in half a pint of lukewarm milk, and a table-spoonful of thick yest; mix the milk and yest with enough flour to make it as thick as cream (this is called setting a sponge); set it by in a warm place for one hour; in the meantime, melt to an oil half a pound of fresh butter, and add it to the other ingredients, with one ounce of caraway-seeds, and enough of milk to make it of a middling stiffness; line a hoop with paper, well rubbed over with butter; put in the mixture; set it some time to prove in a stove, or before the fire, and bake it on a plate about an hour, in rather a hot oven; when done, rub the top over with a paste-brush dipped in milk.
Rich Yest Cake.—(No. 60.)
Set a sponge as in the foregoing receipt, with the same proportions of flour, sugar, milk, and yest: when it has lain some time, mix it with three quarters of a pound of butter oiled, one pound and a quarter of currants, half a pound of candied lemon and orange-peel cut fine, grated nutmeg, ground allspice and cinnamon, a quarter of an ounce of each: case a hoop as stated No. 59, bake it in a good-heated oven one hour and a half.
N.B. It may be iced with No. 84, and ornamented as a twelfth cake.
Queen, or Heart Cakes.—(No. 61.)
One pound of sifted sugar, one pound of butter, eight eggs, one pound and a quarter of flour, two ounces of currants, and half a nutmeg grated.
Cream the butter as at No. 55, and mix it well with the sugar and spice, then put in half the eggs and beat it ten minutes, add the remainder of the eggs, and work it ten minutes longer, stir in the flour lightly, and the currants afterward, then take small tin pans of any shape (hearts the most usual), rub the inside of each with butter, fill and bake them a few minutes in a hot oven, on a sheet of matted wire, or on a baking-plate; when done, remove them as early as possible from the pans.
Queen's Drops.—(No. 62.)
Leave out four ounces of flour from the last receipt, and add two ounces more of currants, and two ounces of candied peel cut small; work it the same as in the last receipt, and when ready put the measure into a biscuit-funnel,[378-*] and lay them out in drops about the size of half a crown, on white paper; bake them in a hot oven, and, when nearly cold, take them from the paper.
Shrewsbury Cakes.—(No. 63.)
Rub well together one pound of pounded sugar, one pound of fresh butter, and one pound and a half of sifted flour, mix it into a paste, with half a gill of milk or cream, and one egg, let it lie half an hour, roll it out thin, cut it out into small cakes with a tin cutter, about three inches over, and bake them on a clean baking-plate in a moderate oven.
Banbury Cakes.—(No. 64.)
Set a sponge with two table-spoonfuls of thick yest, a gill of warm milk, and a pound of flour; when it has worked a little, mix with it half a pound of currants, washed and picked, half a pound of candied orange and lemon peel cut small, one ounce of spice, such as ground cinnamon, allspice, ginger, and grated nutmeg: mix the whole together with half a pound of honey; roll out puff paste (No. 1,) a quarter of an inch thick, cut it into rounds with a cutter, about four inches over, lay on each with a spoon a small quantity of the mixture; close it round with the fingers in the form of an oval; place the join underneath; press it flat with the hand; sift sugar over it, and bake them on a plate a quarter of an hour, in a moderate oven, and of a light colour.
Bath Buns.—(No. 65.)
Rub together with the hand one pound of fine flour, and half a pound of butter; beat six eggs, and add them to the flour, &c. with a table-spoonful of good yest; mix them all together, with about half a tea-cupful of milk; set it in a warm place for an hour, then mix in six ounces of sifted sugar, and a few caraway seeds; mould them into buns with a table-spoon, on a clean baking-plate; throw six or eight caraway comfits on each, and bake them in a hot oven about ten minutes. This quantity should make about eighteen.
Sponge Biscuits.—(No. 66.)
Break into a round-bottomed preserving-pan[379-*] nine good-sized eggs, with one pound of sifted loaf sugar, and some grated lemon-peel; set the pan over a very slow fire, and whisk it till quite warm (but not too hot to set the eggs); remove the pan from the fire, and whisk it till cold, which may be a quarter of an hour; then stir in the flour lightly with a spattle; previous to which, prepare the sponge frame as follows:—Wipe them well out with a clean cloth, rub the insides with a brush dipped in butter, which has been clarified, and sift loaf sugar over; fill the frames with the mixture; throw pounded sugar over; bake them five minutes in a brisk oven: when done, take them from the frames, and lay them on a sieve.
Savoy Cake, or Sponge Cake in a Mould.—(No. 67.)
Take nine eggs, their weight of sugar, and six of flour, some grated lemon, or a few drops of essence of lemon, and half a gill of orange-flower water, work them as in the last receipt; put in the orange-flower water when you take it from the fire; be very careful the mould is quite dry; rub it all over the inside with butter; put some pounded sugar round the mould upon the butter, and shake it well to get it out of the crevices: tie a slip of paper round the mould; fill it three parts full with the mixture, and bake it one hour in a slack oven; when done, let it stand for a few minutes, and take it from the mould, which may be done by shaking it a little.
Biscuit Drops.—(No. 68.)
Beat well together in a pan one pound of sifted sugar with eight eggs for twenty minutes; then add a quarter of an ounce of caraway seeds, and one pound and a quarter of flour: lay wafer-paper on a baking-plate, put the mixture into a biscuit-funnel, and drop it out on the paper about the size of half a crown; sift sugar over, and bake them in a hot oven.
Savoy Biscuits.—(No. 69.)
To be made as drop biscuits, omitting the caraways, and quarter of a pound of flour: put it into the biscuit-funnel, and lay it out about the length and size of your finger, on common shop paper; strew sugar over, and bake them in a hot oven; when cold, wet the backs of the paper with a paste-brush and water: when they have lain some time, take them carefully off, and place them back to back.
Italian Macaroons.—(No. 70.)
Take one pound of Valentia or Jordan almonds, blanched, pound them quite fine with the whites of four eggs; add two pounds and a half of sifted loaf sugar, and rub them well together with the pestle; put in by degrees about ten or eleven more whites, working them well as you put them in; but the best criterion to go by in trying their lightness is to bake one or two, and if you find them heavy, put one or two more whites; put the mixture into a biscuit-funnel, and lay them out on wafer-paper, in pieces about the size of a small walnut, having ready about two ounces of blanched and dry almonds cut into slips, put three or four pieces on each, and bake them on wires, or a baking-plate, in a slow oven.
Obs.—Almonds should be blanched and dried gradually two or three days before they are used, by which means they will work much better, and where large quantities are used, it is advised to grind them in a mill provided for that purpose.
Ratafia Cakes.—(No. 71.)
To half a pound of blanched bitter, and half a pound of sweet, almonds, put the whites of four eggs; beat them quite fine in a mortar, and stir in two pounds and a quarter of loaf sugar, pounded and sifted; rub them well together with the whites (by degrees) of nine eggs (try their lightness as in the last receipt); lay them out from the biscuit-funnel on cartridge-paper, in drops about the size of a shilling, and bake them in a middling-heated oven, of a light brown colour, and take them from the papers as soon as cold.
N.B. A smaller pipe must be used in the funnel than for other articles.
Almond Sponge Cake.—(No. 72.)
Pound in a mortar one pound of blanched almonds quite fine, with the whites of three eggs; then put in one pound of sifted loaf sugar, some grated lemon-peel, and the yelks of fifteen eggs—work them well together: beat up to a solid froth the whites of twelve eggs, and stir them into the other ingredients with a quarter of a pound of sifted dry flour: prepare a mould as at No. 67; put in the mixture, and bake it an hour in a slow oven: take it carefully from the mould, and set it on a sieve.
Ratafia Cake.—(No. 73.)
To be made as above, omitting a quarter of a pound of sweet, and substituting a quarter of a pound of bitter almonds.
Diet Bread Cake.—(No. 74.)
Boil, in half a pint of water, one pound and a half of lump sugar; have ready one pint of eggs, three parts yelks, in a pan; pour in the sugar, and whisk it quick till cold, or about a quarter of an hour; then stir in two pounds of sifted flour; case the inside of square tins with white paper; fill them three parts full; sift a little sugar over, and bake it in a warm oven, and while hot remove them from the moulds.
Orange Gingerbread.—(No. 75.)
Sift two pounds and a quarter of fine flour, and add to it a pound and three quarters of treacle, six ounces of candied orange-peel cut small, three quarters of a pound of moist sugar, one ounce of ground ginger, and one ounce of allspice: melt to an oil three quarters of a pound of butter; mix the whole well together, and lay it by for twelve hours; roll it out with as little flour as possible, about half an inch thick; cut it into pieces three inches long and two wide; mark them in the form of checkers with the back of a knife; put them on a baking-plate about a quarter of an inch apart; rub them over with a brush dipped into the yelk of an egg beat up with a tea-cupful of milk; bake it in a cool oven about a quarter of an hour: when done, wash them slightly over again, divide the pieces with a knife (as in baking they will run together).
Gingerbread Nuts.—(No. 76.)
To two pounds of sifted flour, put two pounds of treacle, three quarters of a pound of moist sugar, half a pound of candied orange-peel cut small, one ounce and a half of ground ginger, one ounce of ground caraways, and three quarters of a pound of butter oiled: mix all well together, and set it by some time; then roll it out in pieces about the size of a small walnut; lay them in rows on a baking-plate; dress them flat with the hand, and bake them in a slow oven about ten minutes.
Plain Buns.—(No. 77.)
To four pounds of sifted flour put one pound of good moist sugar; make a cavity in the centre, and stir in a gill of good yest, a pint of lukewarm milk, with enough of the flour to make it the thickness of cream; cover it over, and let it lie two hours; then melt to an oil (but not hot) one pound of butter, stir it into the other ingredients, with enough warm milk to make it a soft paste; throw a little flour over, and let them lie an hour; have ready a baking-platter rubbed over with butter; mould with the hand the dough into buns, about the size of a large egg; lay them in rows full three inches apart; set them in a warm place for half an hour, or till they have risen to double their size; bake them in a hot oven of a good colour, and wash them over with a brush dipped into milk when drawn from the oven.
Cross Buns.—(No. 78.)
To the above mixture put one ounce and a half of ground allspice, cinnamon, and mace, mixed; and when half proved, press the form of a cross with a tin mould (made for the purpose) in the centre, and proceed as above.
Seed Buns.—(No. 79.)
Take two pounds of plain bun dough (No. 77), and mix in one ounce of caraway seeds; butter the insides of small tart-pans; mould the dough into buns, and put one in each pan; set them to rise in a warm place; and when sufficiently proved, ice them with the white of an egg beat to a froth, and laid on with a paste-brush; some pounded sugar upon that, and dissolve it with water splashed from the brush: bake them in a warm oven about ten minutes.
Plum Buns.—(No. 80.)
To two pounds of No. 77 mixture, put half a pound of currants, a quarter of a pound of candied orange-peel cut into small pieces, half a nutmeg grated, half an ounce of mixed spice, such as allspice, cinnamon, &c.: mould them into buns; jag them round the edge with a knife, and proceed as with plain buns, No. 77.
Orgeat.—(No. 81.)
Pound very fine one pound of Jordan, and one ounce of bitter, almonds, in a marble mortar, with half a gill of orange-flower water to keep them from oiling; then mix with them one pint of rose and one pint of spring-water; rub it through a tamis cloth or lawn sieve, till the almonds are quite dry, which will reduce the quantity to about a quart: have ready three pints of clarified sugar or water, and boil it to a crack (which may be known by dipping your fingers into the sugar, and then into cold water; and if you find the sugar to crack in moving your finger, it has boiled enough); put in the almonds; boil it one minute, and when cold put it into small bottles close corked; a table-spoonful of which will be sufficient for a tumbler of water: shake the bottle before using.
Obs.—If the orgeat is for present use, the almonds may be pounded as above, and mixed with one quart of water, one quart of milk, a pint of capillaire or clarified sugar, rubbed through a tamis or fine sieve, and put into decanters for use.
Baked Pears.—(No. 82.)
Take twelve large baking pears; pare and cut them into halves, leaving the stem about half an inch long; take out the core with the point of a knife, and place them close together in a block-tin saucepan, the inside of which is quite bright, with the cover to fit quite close; put to them the rind of a lemon cut thin, with half its juice, a small stick of cinnamon, and twenty grains of allspice; cover them with spring-water, and allow one pound of loaf-sugar to a pint and a half of water: cover them up close, and bake them for six hours in a very slow oven: they will be quite tender, and of a bright colour.
Obs.—Prepared cochineal is generally used for colouring the pears; but if the above is strictly attended to, it will be found to answer best.
To dry Apples.—(No. 83.)
Take biffins, or orange or lemon-pippins; the former are the best; choose the clearest rinds, and without any blemishes; lay them on clean straw on a baking-wire; cover them well with more straw; set them into a slow oven; let them remain for four or five hours; draw them out and rub them in your hands, and press them very gently, otherwise you will burst the skins; return them into the oven for about an hour; press them again; when cold, if they look dry, rub them over with a little clarified sugar.
Obs.—By being put into the oven four or five times, pressing them between each time, they may be brought as flat, and eat as well, as the dried biffins from Norfolk.
Icing, for Twelfth or Bride Cake.—(No. 84.)
Take one pound of double-refined sugar, pounded and sifted through a lawn sieve; put into a pan quite free from grease; break in the whites of six eggs, and as much powder blue as will lie on a sixpence; beat it well with a spattle for ten minutes; then squeeze in the juice of a lemon, and beat it till it becomes thick and transparent. Set the cake you intend to ice in an oven or warm place five minutes; then spread over the top and sides with the mixture as smooth as possible. If for a wedding-cake only, plain ice it; if for a twelfth cake, ornament it with gum paste, or fancy articles of any description.
Obs.—A good twelfth cake, not baked too much, and kept in a cool dry place, will retain its moisture and eat well, if twelve months old.
To boil Sugar to Caramel.—(No. 85.)
Break into a small copper or brass pan one pound of refined sugar; put in a gill of spring-water; set it on a fire; when it boils skim it quite clean, and let it boil quick, till it comes to the degree called crack; which may be known by dipping a tea-spoon or skewer into the sugar, and letting it drop to the bottom of a pan of cold water; and if it remains hard, it has attained that degree: squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, and let it remain one minute longer on the fire; then set the pan into another of cold water: have ready moulds of any shape; rub them over with sweet oil; dip a spoon or fork into the sugar, and throw it over the mould in fine threads, till it is quite covered: make a small handle of caramel, or stick on two or three small gum paste rings, by way of ornament, and place it over small pastry of any description.
A Croquante of Paste.—(No. 86.)
Roll out paste, as No. 8, about the eighth of an inch thick; rub over a plain mould with a little fresh butter; lay on the paste very even, and equally thin on both sides; pare it round the rim; then with a small penknife cut out small pieces, as fancy may direct, such as diamonds, stars, circles, sprigs, &c.; or use a small tin cutter of any shape: let it lie to dry some time, and bake it a few minutes in a slack oven, of a light colour: remove it from the mould, and place it over a tart, or any other dish of small pastry.
Derby or Short Cakes.—(No. 87.)
Rub in with the hand one pound of butter into two pounds of sifted flour; put one pound of currants, one pound of good moist sugar, and one egg; mix all together with half a pint of milk: roll it out thin, and cut them into round cakes with a cutter; lay them on a clean baking-plate, and put them into a middling-heated oven for about five minutes.
Egg and Ham Patties.—(No. 88.)
Cut a slice of bread two inches thick, from the most solid part of a stale quartern loaf: have ready a tin round cutter, two inches diameter; cut out four or five pieces, then take a cutter two sizes smaller, press it nearly through the larger pieces, then remove with a small knife the bread from the inner circle: have ready a large stew-pan full of boiling lard; fry them of a light-brown colour, drain them dry with a clean cloth, and set them by till wanted; then take half a pound of lean ham, mince it small; add to it a gill of good brown sauce; stir it over the fire a few minutes, and put a small quantity of Cayenne pepper and lemon-juice: fill the shapes with the mixture, and lay a poached egg (No. 546) upon each.
Damson, or other Plum Cheese.—(No. 89.)
Take damsons that have been preserved without sugar; pass them through a sieve, to take out the skins and stones. To every pound of pulp of fruit put half a pound of loaf sugar, broke small; boil them together till it becomes quite stiff; pour it into four common-sized dinner plates, rubbed with a little sweet oil; put it into a warm place to dry, and when quite firm, take it from the plate, and cut it into any shape you choose.
N.B. Damson cheese is generally used in desserts.
Barley Sugar.—(No. 90.)
Clarify, as No. 475, three pounds of refined sugar; boil it to the degree of cracked (which may be ascertained by dipping a spoon into the sugar, and then instantly into cold water, and if it appears brittle, it is boiled enough); squeeze in a small tea-spoonful of the juice, and four drops of essence of lemon, and let it boil up once or twice, and set it by a few minutes: have ready a marble slab, or smooth stone, rubbed over with sweet oil; pour over the sugar; cut it into long stripes with a large pair of scissors; twist it a little, and when cold, keep it from the air in tin boxes or canisters.
N.B. A few drops of essence of ginger, instead of lemon, will make what is called ginger barley sugar.
Barley Sugar Drops.—(No. 91.)
To be made as the last receipt. Have ready, by the time the sugar is boiled sufficiently, a large sheet of paper, with a smooth layer of sifted loaf sugar on it; put the boiled sugar into a ladle that has a fine lip; pour it out, in drops not larger than a shilling, on to the sifted sugar; when cold, fold them up separately in white paper.
N.B. Some use an oiled marble slab instead of the sifted sugar.
Raspberry Jam.—(No. 92.)
Rub fresh-gathered raspberries, taken on a dry day, through a wicker sieve; to one pint of the pulp put one pound of loaf sugar, broke small; put it into a preserving-pan over a brisk fire; when it begins to boil, skim it well, and stir it twenty minutes; put into small pots; cut white paper to the size of the top of the pot; dip them in brandy, and put them over the jam when cold, with a double paper tied over the pot.
Strawberry jam is made the same way, and the scarlets are most proper for that purpose.
Apricot, or any Plum Jam.—(No. 93.)
After taking away the stones from the apricots, and cutting out any blemishes they may have; put them over a slow fire, in a clean stew-pan, with half a pint of water; when scalded, rub them through a hair-sieve: to every pound of pulp put one pound of sifted loaf-sugar; put it into a preserving-pan over a brisk fire, and when it boils skim it well, and throw in the kernels of the apricots, and half an ounce of bitter almonds, blanched; boil it a quarter of an hour fast, and stirring it all the time; remove it from the fire, and fill it into pots, and cover them as at No. 92.
N.B. Green gages or plums may be done in the same way, omitting the kernels or almonds.
Lemon Chips.—(No. 94.)
Take large smooth-rinded Malaga lemons; race or cut off their peel into chips with a small knife (this will require some practice to do it properly); throw them into salt and water till next day; have ready a pan of boiling water, throw them in and boil them tender. Drain them well: after having lain some time in water to cool, put them in an earthen pan, pour over enough boiling clarified sugar to cover them, and then let them lie two days; then strain the syrup, put more sugar, and reduce it by boiling till the syrup is quite thick; put in the chips, and simmer them a few minutes, and set them by for two days: repeat it once more; let them be two days longer, and they will be fit to candy, which must be done as follows: take four pints of clarified sugar, which will be sufficient for six pounds of chips, boil it to the degree of blown (which may be known by dipping the skimmer into the sugar, and blowing strongly through the holes of it; if little bladders appear, it has attained that degree); and when the chips are thoroughly drained and wiped on a clean cloth, put them into the syrup, stirring them about with the skimmer till you see the sugar become white; then take them out with two forks; shake them lightly into a wire sieve, and set them into a stove, or in a warm place to dry.
N.B. Orange chips are done in the same way.
Dried Cherries.—(No. 95.)
Take large Kentish cherries, not too ripe; pick off the stalks, and take out the stones with a quill, cut nearly as for a pen: to three pounds of which take three pounds or pints of clarified sugar—(see No. 475,) boil it to the degree of blown (for which see last receipt); put in the cherries, give them a boil, and set them by in an earthen pan till the next day; then strain the syrup, add more sugar, and boil it of a good consistence; put the cherries in, and boil them five minutes, and set them by another day: repeat the boiling two more days, and when wanted, drain them some time, and lay them on wire sieves to dry in a stove, or nearly cold oven.
Green Gages preserved in Syrup.—(No. 96.)
Take the gages when nearly ripe; cut the stalks about half an inch from the fruit; put them into cold water, with a lump of alum about the size of a walnut; and set them on a slow fire till they come to a simmer: take them from the fire, and put them into cold water; drain, and pack them close into a preserving-pan; pour over them enough clarified sugar to cover them; simmer them two or three minutes; set them by in an earthen pan till next day, when drain the gages, and boil the syrup with more sugar, till quite thick; put in the gages, and simmer them three minutes more, and repeat it for two days; then boil clarified sugar to a blow, as at No. 94, place the gages into glasses, and pour the syrup over, and, when cold, tie over a bladder, and upon that a leather; and should you want any for drying, drain and dry them on a wire sieve in a stove or slow oven.
Apricots or egg plums may be done in the same way.
To preserve Ginger.—(No. 97.)
Take green ginger, pare it neatly with a sharp knife; throw it into a pan of cold water as it is pared, to keep it white; when you have sufficient, boil it till tender, changing the water three times; each time put it into cold water to take out the heat or spirit of the ginger; when tender, throw it into cold water: for seven pounds of ginger, clarify eight pounds of refined sugar, see No. 475; when cold, drain the ginger, and put it in an earthen pan, with enough of the sugar, cold, to cover it, and let it stand two days; then pour the syrup from the ginger to the remainder of the sugar; boil it some time, and when cold, pour it on the ginger again, and set it by three days at least. Then take the syrup from the ginger; boil it, and put it hot over the ginger; proceed in this way till you find the sugar has entered the ginger, boiling the syrup, and skimming off the scum that rises each time, until the syrup becomes rich as well as the ginger.
Obs.—If you put the syrup on hot at first, or if too rich, the ginger will shrink, and not take the sugar.
N.B. When green ginger is not to be procured, take large races of Jamaica ginger boiled several times in water till tender, pare neatly, and proceed as above.
To preserve Cucumbers.—(No. 98.)
Take large and fresh-gathered cucumbers; split them down and take out all the seeds; lay them in salt and water that will bear an egg, three days; set them on a fire with cold water, and a small lump of alum, and boil them a few minutes, or till tender; drain them, and pour on them a thin syrup; let them lie two days; boil the syrup again, and put it over the cucumbers; repeat it twice more; then have ready some fresh clarified sugar, boiled to a blow (see No. 94); put in the cucumbers, and simmer it five minutes; set it by till next day; boil the syrup and cucumbers again, and set them in glasses for use.
Preserved Fruit, without Sugar.—(No. 99.)
Take damsons when not too ripe; pick off the stalks, and put them into wide-mouthed glass bottles, taking care not to put in any but what are whole, and without blemish; shake them well down (otherwise the bottles will not be half full when done); stop the bottles with new soft corks, not too tight; set them into a very slow oven (nearly cold) four or five hours; the slower they are done the better; when they begin to shrink in the bottles, it is a sure sign that the fruit is thoroughly warm: take them out, and before they are cold, drive in the corks quite tight; set them in a bottle-rack or basket, with the mouth downwards, and they will keep good several years.
Green gooseberries, morello cherries, currants, green gages, or bullace, may be done the same way.
Obs.—If the corks are good, and fit well, there will be no occasion for cementing them; but should bungs be used, it will be necessary.
Bread.—(No. 100.)
Put a quartern of flour into a large basin, with two tea-spoonfuls of salt; make a hole in the middle; then put in a basin four table-spoonfuls, of good yest; stir in a pint of milk, lukewarm; put it in the hole of the flour; stir it just to make it of a thin batter; then strew a little flour over the top; then set it on one side of the fire, and cover it over: let it stand till the next morning; then make it into dough; add half a pint more of warm milk; knead it for ten minutes, and then set it in a warm place by the fire for one hour and a half; then knead it again, and it is ready either for loaves or bricks: bake them from one hour and a half to two hours, according to the size.
French Bread and Rolls.—(No. 100*.)
Take a pint and a half of milk; make it quite warm; half a pint of small-beer yest; add sufficient flour to make it as thick as batter; put it into a pan; cover it over, and keep it warm: when it has risen as high as it will, add a quarter of a pint of warm water, and half an ounce of salt,—mix them well together;—rub into a little flour two ounces of butter; then make your dough, not quite so stiff as for your bread; let it stand for three quarters of an hour, and it will be ready to make into rolls, &c.: let them stand till they have risen, and bake them in a quick oven.
SALLY LUNN.—Tea Cakes.—(No. 101.)
Take one pint of milk quite warm, a quarter of a pint of thick small-beer yest; put them into a pan with flour sufficient to make it as thick as batter,—cover it over, and let it stand till it has risen as high as it will, i. e. about two hours: add two ounces of lump sugar, dissolved in a quarter of a pint of warm milk,[391-*] a quarter of a pound of butter rubbed into your flour very fine; then make your dough the same as for French rolls, &c.; and let it stand half an hour; then make up your cakes, and put them on tins: when they have stood to rise, bake them in a quick oven.
Care should be taken never to put your yest to water or milk too hot, or too cold, as either extreme will destroy the fermentation. In summer it should be lukewarm, in winter a little warmer, and in very cold weather, warmer still.
When it has first risen, if you are not prepared, it will not hurt to stand an hour.
Muffins.—(No. 102.)
Take one pint of milk quite warm, and a quarter of a pint of thick small-beer yest; strain them into a pan, and add sufficient flour to make it like a batter; cover it over, and let it stand in a warm place until it has risen; then add a quarter of a pint of warm milk, and one ounce of butter rubbed in some flour quite fine; mix them well together: then add sufficient flour to make it into dough, cover it over, and let it stand half an hour; then work it up again, and break it into small pieces: roll them up quite round, and cover them over for a quarter of an hour; then bake them.
Crumpets.—(No. 103.)
The same: instead of making the mixture into dough, add only sufficient flour to make a thick batter, and when it has stood a quarter of an hour it will be ready to bake.
Muffins and crumpets bake best on a stove with an iron plate fixed on the top; but they will also bake in a frying-pan, taking care the fire is not too fierce, and turning them when lightly browned.
Yorkshire Cakes.—(No. 104.)
Take a pint and a half of milk quite warm, and a quarter of a pint of thick small-beer yest; mix them well together in a pan with sufficient flour to make a thick batter; let it stand in a warm place covered over until it has risen as high as it will; rub six ounces of butter into some flour till it is quite fine; then break three eggs into your pan with the flour and butter; mix them well together; then add sufficient flour to make it into a dough, and let it stand a quarter of an hour; then work it up-again, and break it into pieces about the size of an egg, or larger, as you may fancy; roll them round and smooth with your hand, and put them on tins, and let them stand covered over with a light piece of flannel.
FOOTNOTES:
[376-*] The goodness of a cake or biscuit depends much on its being well baked; great attention should be paid to the different degrees of heat of the oven: be sure to have it of a good sound heat at first, when, after its being well cleaned out, may be baked such articles as require a hot oven, after which such as are directed to be baked in a well-heated or moderate oven; and, lastly, those in a slow soaking or cool one. With a little care the above degrees may soon be known.
In making butter cakes, such as Nos. 55, 57, or 61, too much attention cannot be paid to have the butter well creamed; for should it be made too warm, it would, cause the mixture to be the same, and when put to bake, the fruit, sweetmeats, &c. would, in that event, fall to the bottom.
Yest cakes should be well proved before put into the oven, as they will prove but little afterward.
In making biscuits and cakes where butter is not used, the different utensils should be kept free from all kinds of grease, or it is next to impossible to have good ones.
In buttering the insides of cake-moulds, the butter should be nicely clarified, and when nearly cold, laid on quite smooth, with a small brush kept for that purpose.
Sugar and flour should be quite dry, and a drum sieve is recommended for the sugar. The old way of beating the yelks and whites of eggs separate (except in very few cases), is not only useless, but a waste of time. They should be well incorporated with the other ingredients, and, in some instances, they cannot be beaten too much.
[378-*] Take fine brown Holland, and make a bag in the form of a cone, about five inches over at the top. Cut a small hole at the bottom, and tie in a small pipe of a tapering form, about two inches long; and the bore must be large or small, according to the size of the biscuits or cakes to be made. When the various mixtures are put in, lay the pipe close to the paper, and press it out in rows.
Some use a bullock's bladder for the purpose.
[379-*] A wide-mouthed earthen pan, made quite hot in the oven, or on a fire, will be a good substitute.
[391-*] If you do not mind the expense, the cake will be much lighter if, instead of the milk, you put four eggs.
OBSERVATIONS ON PUDDINGS AND PIES.
The quality of the various articles employed in the composition of puddings and pies varies so much, that two puddings, made exactly according to the same receipt, will be so different[392-*] one would hardly suppose they were made by the same person, and certainly not with precisely the same quantities of the (apparently) same ingredients. Flour fresh ground, pure new milk, fresh laid eggs, fresh butter, fresh suet, &c. will make a very different composition, than when kept till each article is half spoiled.
Plum puddings, when boiled, if hung up in a cool place in the cloth they are boiled in, will keep good some months; when wanted, take them out of the cloth, and put them into a clean cloth, and as soon as warmed through, they are ready.
MEM.—In composing these receipts, the quantities of eggs, butter, &c. are considerably less than are ordered in other cookery books; but quite sufficient for the purpose of making the puddings light and wholesome;—we have diminished the expense, without impoverishing the preparations; and the rational epicure will be as well pleased with them as the rational economist.
Milk, in its genuine state, varies considerably in the quantity of cream it will throw up, depending on the material with which the cow is fed. The cow that gives the most milk does not always produce the most cream, which varies fifteen or twenty per cent.
Eggs vary considerably in size; in the following receipts we mean the full-sized hen's egg; if you have only pullet's eggs, use two for one. Break eggs one by one into a basin, and not all into the bowl together; because then, if you meet with a bad one, that will spoil all the rest: strain them through a sieve to take out the treddles.
N.B. To preserve eggs for twelve months, see N.B. to No. 547. Snow, and small beer, have been recommended by some economists as admirable substitutes for eggs; they will no more answer this purpose than as substitutes for sugar or brandy.
Flour, according to that champion against adulteration, Mr. Accum, varies in quality as much as any thing.
Butter also varies much in quality. Salt butter may be washed from the salt, and then it will make very good pastry.
Lard varies extremely from the time it is kept, &c. When you purchase it, have the bladder cut, and ascertain that it be sweet and good.
Suet. Beef is the best, then mutton and veal; when this is used in very hot weather, while you chop it, dredge it lightly with a little flour.
Beef-marrow is excellent for most of the purposes for which suet is employed.
Drippings, especially from beef, when very clean and nice, are frequently used for kitchen crusts and pies, and for such purposes are a satisfactory substitute for butter, lard, &c. To clean and preserve drippings, see No. 83.
Currants, previous to putting them into the pudding, should be plumped: this is done by pouring some boiling water upon them: wash them well, and then lay them on a sieve or cloth before the fire, pick them clean from the stones;—this not only makes them look better, but cleanses them from all dirt.
Raisins, figs, dried cherries, candied orange and lemon-peel, citron, and preserves of all kinds, fresh fruits, gooseberries, currants, plums, damsons, &c. are added to batter and suet puddings, or enclosed in the crust ordered for apple dumplings, and make all the various puddings called by those names.
Batter puddings must be quite smooth and free from lumps; to ensure this, first mix the flour with a little milk, add the remainder by degrees, and then the other ingredients.
If it is a plain pudding, put it through a hair-sieve; this will take out all lumps effectually.
Batter puddings should be tied up tight: if boiled in a mould, butter it first; if baked, also butter the pan.
Be sure the water boils before you put in the pudding; set your stew-pan on a trivet over the fire, and keep it steadily boiling all the time;—if set upon the fire, the pudding often burns.
Be scrupulously careful that your pudding-cloth is perfectly sweet and clean; wash it without any soap, unless very greasy; then rinse it thoroughly in clean water after. Immediately before you use it, dip it in boiling water; squeeze it dry, and dredge it with flour.
If your fire is very fierce, mind and stir the puddings every now and then to keep them from sticking to the bottom of the saucepan; if in a mould, this care is not so much required, but keep plenty of water in the saucepan.
When puddings are boiled in a cloth, it should be just dipped in a basin of cold water, before you untie the pudding-cloth, as that will prevent it from sticking; but when boiled in a mould, if it is well buttered, they will turn out without. Custard or bread puddings require to stand five minutes before they are turned out. They should always be boiled in a mould or cups.
Keep your paste-board, rolling-pin, cutters, and tins very clean: the least dust on the tins and cutters, or the least hard paste on the rolling-pin, will spoil the whole of your labour.
Things used for pastry or cakes should not be used for any other purpose; be very careful that your flour is dried at the fire before you use it, for puff paste or cakes; if damp it will make them heavy.
In using butter for puff paste, you should take the greatest care to previously work it well on the paste-board or slab, to get out all the water and buttermilk, which very often remains in; when you have worked it well with a clean knife, dab it over with a soft cloth, and it is then ready to lay on your paste; do not make your paste over stiff before you put in your butter.
For those who do not understand making puff paste, it is by far the best way to work the butter in at two separate times, divide it in half, and break the half in little bits, and cover your paste all over: dredge it lightly with flour, then fold it over each side and ends, roll it out quite thin, and then put in the rest of the butter, fold it, and roll it again. Remember always to roll puff paste from you. The best made paste, if not properly baked, will not do the cook any credit. |
|
