EARLY DWARF CHALON.—Vilmorin catalogues this as "new" in 1889, and says: "Stem very short, head rather large, grain white and very close. Specially recommended for open air culture." See Chalon Perfection.

EARLY DWARF FORCING (Sutton).—No description.

EARLY DWARF SURPRISE.—An early variety from Vilmorin, which headed well at the New York experiment station, in 1884.

EARLY DWARF VIENNA.—Said by Wolfner and Weisz, of Vienna, to be an old superior sort, still grown for the first and second crop.

EARLY ERFURT (Erfurt, Large Erfurt, Large Early White Erfurt, Late Erfurt).—This is still a popular variety, but less hardy and less valuable as a late sort than the improved varieties from the south of Europe; and as an early sort it has been displaced by its offspring, the Extra Early Erfurt, and the newer varieties derived from that. The heads of the Early Erfurt are large and fine-grained but more inclined to be open and leafy than those of Early Paris. It is a little earlier than that variety. Vilmorin describes the Early Erfurt as follows: "Very early, distinct, and valuable, but difficult to keep pure. Below medium height; stem rather short; leaves oblong, entire, rounded, and slightly undulated; of a peculiar light grayish green, which, added to their form and their rather erect position, gives to the plant an appearance somewhat resembling that of the Sugar Loaf. Head very white, fine grained, rapidly developed, but not inclined to remain long solid."

The Bon Jardinier mentions the Erfurt, in 1859, among the novelties as the earliest variety then known, being two weeks earlier than Salomon (Early Paris) and very suitable for forcing on account of its straight, upright leaves and earliness.

EARLY ERFURT MAMMOTH (New Erfurt Dwarf Mammoth [Burr], etc).—F. Burr, in 1886, said: "A recent sort with large, clear white flowers, of superior quality. The plants are low and close, and generally form a head, even in protracted dry and warm weather. It appears to be one of the few varieties adapted to the climate of this country." This form of Early Erfurt has not been kept distinct.

EARLY FAVORITE.—A variety without description is sold under this name by A. B. Cleveland & Co. See also Haskell's Favorite.

EARLY GERMAN.—"A new variety advertised in English Catalogues:"—(Mag. of Hort., 1838, p. 50).

EARLY LA CROSSE FAVORITE.—John A. Salzer offers this as earlier than Henderson's Early Snowball, and "the earliest, finest, whitest and most compact grown." At the Ohio experiment station in 1889 it was apparently the same as the ordinary large Early Erfurt. Mr. Salzer writes me that it is a distinct type of his own originating from the Early Erfurt.

EARLY LEYDEN, see Walcheren.

EARLY LONDON (London Particular, Fitch's Early London, Early English, Large Late.)—An old sort, still quite popular in both the United States and England. Vigorous and hardy, with large, abundant, deep-green, undulated foliage; stem rather tall, but shorter than that of Early Dutch; head well formed and somewhat conical. Formerly the main variety grown as an early crop about London, but there are now varieties much earlier.

Vilmorin regards it the same as Early Dutch, which is evidently an error.

EARLY LONDON MARKET (Gregory), see Early London.

EARLY LONDON WHITE (Sutton).—An early form of Early London, cultivated some twenty years ago, but now seldom heard of.

EARLY PADILLA (Long Island Beauty).—The Early Padilla was named and sent out by Tillinghast in 1888, who says that it is a sport from Henderson's Snowball which originated on one of his seed farms on Padilla Bay, Puget Sound, in the State of Washington. Mr. H. A. March, of Fidalgo, Washington, who states that he grows all of Tillinghast's Puget Sound cauliflower seed, says that Early Padilla originated with him from the Large Erfurt, and was named by him the "American." It was published at first under this name in one of his circulars. Seed of the same was also supplied by him to Francis Brill, of Long Island, who named it and sold it as Long Island Beauty.

At the New York experiment station in 1888, the Early Padilla equaled in earliness Henderson's Snowball, and was slightly surpassed by Extra Early Dwarf Erfurt, while the variety obtained as Long Island Beauty was the earliest of the nine early varieties on trial. At the Ohio experiment station in 1889, Long Island Beauty was called a very perfect strain of Early [Extra Early] Erfurt.

Gregory said in 1890: "Of the thirteen varieties of cauliflower raised in my experimental plot in 1888, every specimen of the Long Island Beauty made fine heads, and the heads averaged larger than any other sort. It is among the very earliest.... Mr. Brill calls it, 'absolutely and unequivocally the best cauliflower in the world.'"

EARLY PARIS (Tendre de Paris, Salomon, Petit Salomon).—An excellent sort, more largely grown for a fall crop in this country in the past than any other variety. Intermediate in season between half Early Paris and the new Extra Early Paris. As grown by the writer from seed obtained for several years of James Vick, the Early Paris was later than Early Erfurt, but more certain to head, the heads more globular, a little smaller, decidedly lighter in weight than those of that variety, of better quality, and almost entirely free from intermixed leaves. Sown about May 10, and set out the last of June, most of the plants formed their heads during October. As a summer variety it produces better heads than the Early Erfurt, but is less inclined to head early in the season.

Described by Vilmorin as follows: "Plant small, rather tall; leaves comparatively narrow, nearly straight, a little deflexed at the extremity, and slightly wavy at the border; head of medium size, quickly formed, but remaining firm but a short time. This variety is particularly suitable for the summer crop; sown in April or May it heads in August or September." In this country, when used as a fall crop, no complaint is made of the heads not remaining firm. Sown in May in the latitude of New York it heads in September and October. M. May, of France, describes this variety as follows in the Revue Horticole for 1880: "An early variety grown by gardeners in the outskirts of Paris. It has nearly the appearance of the Half Early Paris, but is smaller, with a little shorter leaves, which are more narrow and upright. It is sown in September, and Wintered over under hand glasses on a bank composed of manure from an old hot-bed and exposed to the south. The crop is then gathered during May. It may also be sown in March and gathered in July."

Victor Paquet, in his work on Vegetables (Plantes Potagers), published at Paris in 1846, gives a full account of cauliflower culture and says: "We cultivate two distinct varieties, tendre and demi-dur. The sub-varieties gros and petit Salomon are sorts of the tendre."

Richard Frotzer, of New Orleans, catalogues the Extra Early and the Half Early, but not the Early Paris.

Mr. Gregory, of Massachusetts, states that most of the seed sold in the United States as Early Paris is really the Half Early. In a recent letter he says: "The Early or Half Early Paris is now about dead, the various strains of Extra Early Erfurt, such as Snowball, Sea Foam, etc., having taking its place." D. M. Ferry & Co. sell a variety called "Early Paris or Nonpareil," the latter name having been first given by J. M. Thorburn & Co. to the Half Early Paris. There is no doubt, however, of the Early and Half Early Paris being two varieties. The former, which has so long been a favorite in the Northern States may still be relied upon, though in many cases, as stated, it is being displaced by the Extra Early Paris, and particularly by the Extra Early Erfurt and varieties derived from it.

EARLY PICPUS.—Catalogued by Vilmorin in 1889 as a new early variety with large white heads, good for field culture.

EARLY PURITAN.—A little the earliest of four varieties at the New York experiment station in 1889, the others being Early Erfurt, Snowball, and Vick's Ideal. At the Ohio station the same year it was considered to be a strain of Early [Extra Early] Erfurt and one of the best of its class.

D. M. Ferry & Co., the introducers of this variety write me as follows regarding its history: "The Puritan cauliflower originated as the product of a particularly early, large-headed, and dwarf-growing plant found in a large crop of Snowball during the summer of 1886. The seed from this plant was saved, and selections made from the product until a sufficient quantity was secured. It was first noticed and selected by one of the largest cauliflower growers in this country, and great care was taken in selecting and seeding the plant. It is purely American, both in origin and growth."

It appears from the letter of H. A. March, on page 122, that this variety originated with him from Henderson's Snowball, at Fidalgo, Washington.

EARLY SNOWBALL.—Under this name Dean's Early Snowball is generally known in England, and this is probably the variety often sold as Snowball in the past in this country. Henderson's Early Snowball is, however, now sold under that name by many seedsmen, and is the one sent out as Early Snowball by the United States Department of Agriculture.

Seedsmen sometimes prefix their own name, to the variety or strain of Snowball which they sell. All varieties bearing this or similar names are, so far as known, of the Dwarf Erfurt group.

EARLY WALCHEREN, see Walcheren.

ECLIPSE.—The first notice I find of this variety is in the Gardener's Chronicle for 1877 (Vol. VIII), where it is mentioned as being sent out by Dickson Brown & Tait. It is similar to Veitch's Autumn Giant, but about three weeks earlier. It is said to be a fine variety, with large heads, well protected by the leaves, and to stand drouth well. At the Ohio experiment station in 1889, the heads were invariably loose and sprangled.

ERFURT, see Early Erfurt.—The Erfurt varieties are characterized by light pea-green color, and stiff, more or less upright leaves.

EXTRA EARLY ALLEAUME, see Alleaume.

EXTRA EARLY DWARF FORCING.—Probably the Dwarf Erfurt.

EXTRA EARLY ERFURT, see Dwarf Erfurt.

EXTRA EARLY PARIS.—This variety is not described by Vilmorin in his Plantes Potagers, but it is probably the one given in his catalogue under the name of "Extra Earliest Paris (forcing)." It is catalogued by the leading American seedsmen without description.

FAUST'S EARLIEST SNOWBALL.—H. G. Faust & Co., say in their catalogue for 1890: "Our Snowball cauliflower is undoubtedly the best in cultivation. It is the earliest grown, produces the finest snow-white heads, and its compact habit enables it to be planted closer together than any other variety."

FAVORITE, see Early La Crosse Favorite, Haskel's Favorite, and Early Favorite.

FRANKFORT GIANT, see Veitch's Autumn Giant.

FRENCH, see Large White French and Half Early French.

FRENCH IMPERIAL (Thorburn), see Imperial.

FROGMORE EARLY FORCING.—An old variety, described by F. Burr, in 1866, as follows: "Stem quite short, and plant of compact habit. The heads are large and close, and their color clear and delicate. Recommended as one of the best for forcing, as well as an excellent sort for early culture."

In 1876, a writer in the Country Gentleman's Magazine mentions it as the earliest variety grown, to be followed by Early London. It is now, however, but little used.

GERRY ISLAND.—A variety said by Gregory to be a very reliable header, closely resembling Early Paris. At the Colorado experiment station, in 1888, it failed to head.

GIANT MALTA.—Said to be a large, fine variety, with beautiful white heads of excellent flavor. Though dwarf, it is late, requiring six months in which to develop.

GIANT NAPLES.—Described as synonymous with Veitch's Autumn Giant, by Vilmorin, in 1883, but he now catalogues it as a separate variety, similar to Veitch's Autumn Giant, but later. It is doubtless the original, of which the Autumn Giant is a slightly improved form. M. May said of Giant Naples, in 1880: "Very similar to Algiers, a little taller stem, and more fully developed foliage. Highly esteemed in Italy and Algeria. Requires the same culture as Algiers."

GILT EDGE EARLY SNOWBALL (Thorburn).—This American variety was reported by the Pennsylvania experiment station in 1888, as having done well and formed good heads, free from intermixed leaves, where nearly all other sorts failed. "It is a superior selected strain of Early Snowball which originated on Long Island and is of the same type as the best strain of imported Dwarf Erfurt."—(Johnson & Stokes, 1891).

GRANGE'S AUTUMN.—A variety mentioned in the Gardener's Chronicle, in 1870, as earlier and inferior to Veitch's Autumn Giant.

HAAGE'S EARLY GERMAN.—Said by Wolfner and Weisz, of Vienna, to be an excellent short-stemmed variety for the open ground.

HAAGE'S DWARF.—Said by Wolfner and Weisz, of Vienna, to have large, compact heads, which keep long in good condition.

HAAGE'S NEW DWARF EARLY.—"The best for forcing."—(Frederick Adolph A. Haage, Jr., Erfurt, Germany, 1890).

HALF EARLY FRENCH (Landreth, 1886).—Thorburn, in 1891, catalogued Half Early Large French, and in previous years Half Early Dwarf French.

HALF EARLY GIANT ITALIAN.—A new variety catalogued without description by Vilmorin, Andrieux, & Co., in 1889.

HALF EARLY LARGE WHITE FRENCH (Vilmorin, Andrieux & Co.)—No description.

HALF EARLY PARIS (Demi-dur de Paris, Gros Salomon, Nonpareil).—Valuable for a late crop in this country, and now the most popular variety in the New Orleans market. Described by Vilmorin, of Paris, as follows: "Plant medium; leaves rather large, of a deep, slightly glaucous green, surrounding the head well, and gradually reflexed from the base to the apex; border undulate and coarsely dentate, stem rather short and stout; head very white, large, and remaining solid a long time. Formerly the most extensively cultivated for the Paris market, but now giving place to Lenormand Short-stem, and several new varieties."

In the Revue Horticole for 1880, M. May says: "This is the variety most cultivated around Paris, because it is suited to all seasons. It may be sown: (1) In September, to be gathered in May and June, being protected during winter like the Early Paris; (2) in February, in a hot-bed, or under hand-glasses or frames, to be gathered in June and July; (3) at the first of March, also in hot-bed, to be set out in April and gathered in July; (4) finally, it may be sown in June on a border of rich mold, and set out in July, without having been transplanted. This very simple method requires frequent waterings to yield good results. The crop is gathered from September to November."

The name Gros Salomon, now given by Vilmorin and others as synonymous with Half Early Paris, was applied by Ribaud, in 1852, to a separate variety (Annales de la Societe d' Horticulture de l' Allier, 1852, p. 59). For remarks on the synonym "Nonpareil," see that name.

Mr. Gregory, of Massachusetts, says of the Half-Early Paris or Demi-dur: "This is the kind usually sold in this country as Early Paris, the true variety making so small a head as to be comparatively worthless here."—(Gregory, "Cabbages and How to Grow Them," 1870, p. 69).

HALF EARLY ST. BRIEUC (Demi-dur de St. Brieuc).—"Plant large and strong; leaves quite large, elongated, undulate and of a deep green; stem long; head close, solid, and remaining a long time in good condition. This variety, which is extensively cultivated around St. Brieuc, [on the north coast of France] from which it is exported to Paris, and even to England, is quite hardy, and is well adapted to open-air culture."—(Vilmorin).

The St. Brieuc was described by M. May, in the Revue Horticole, in 1880, as "a hardy, but late variety, inferior in its head to our Paris varieties, and not very generally cultivated."

At the New York experiment station in 1886, this variety gave good results.

HASKELL'S FAVORITE.—As grown at the South Dakota experiment station, in 1888, no difference was seen between this and Henderson's Snowball. Seed was sown in hot-bed April 10, the plants set out in well-manured soil, May 24, and the first heads cut July 13—from which time the plants continued to head along through the season. The introducer, George S. Haskell, of Rockford, Ill., writes: "The Early Favorite we sell is a variety I found in Holland a number of years ago. It has proved a very sure header in this section of the country, and will yield more than other sorts. It is not of the 'Erfurt family,' but about half way between the Early Paris and Erfurt."

HENDERSON'S EARLY SNOWBALL.—A German variety, derived from the Dwarf Erfurt, introduced by Peter Henderson & Co., about 1878, and which has become very popular. Gregory, in 1890, said that it was not excelled by any other variety, unless it was Thorburn's Gilt Edge, and that it combined the best characteristics of Berlin Dwarf, Extra Early Erfurt, and Sea Foam. Henderson & Co. state that it is now grown for forcing more largely than any other variety. It is also considerably grown in field culture, not only for the early crop, for which it is especially suited, but also for the late crop, the plants being set out as late as the first of August. Its small size and reliability of heading are valuable features where suitable soil and culture are given. The high price of the seed and the lack of vigor in much of the seed of this and other Dwarf Erfurt varieties, have prevented their cultivation on as large a scale as they would otherwise be grown.

This variety was formerly sold by many seedsmen simply as Early Snowball, and it is the one now usually referred to when the name Early Snowball is used, (See Early Snowball.)

W. J. Green, of the Ohio experiment station, says of Henderson's Snowball: "This justly celebrated strain of Early [Extra Early] Erfurt is probably better known than the parent variety. The true Henderson's Early Snowball is unexcelled, but there are other strains, and other varieties even, that have been sent out under this name, which are very inferior."

The stock of this variety is now all controlled Peter Henderson & Co., and is grown in Germany. Seed descended from Henderson's stock has been grown at Puget Sound, and is claimed to be as good as the original. Several other sorts, including Puritan, Padilla and Gilt Edge, have been derived from Henderson's Snowball, which sometimes mature quite as early as this variety.

IDEAL, see Vick's Ideal.

IMPERIAL.—May says, in the Revue Horticole, for 1880: "A variety which seems to have originated from the Early Dwarf Erfurt, being a little more vigorous, and producing a little larger heads, which is without doubt a result of culture, for in head and leaf it wholly resembles the Erfurt. It is an excellent variety, employed in the same manner as the Erfurt, and deserves extended cultivation."

Vilmorin says: "This fine variety resembles the Dwarf Early Erfurt, but it is of deeper green, and every way larger. It is an early variety with beautiful white head, large and solid, and remarkable for its regularity of growth and product. When well grown it is certainly among the most desirable early varieties." Thorburn considers it one of the best for the main crop. It originated about 1870. It matured in one season eighteen days and in another thirty-two days before the Lenormand.—(The Garden, 1878, p. 2).

IMPERIAL NOVELTY (Landreth), see Imperial.

IMPROVED EARLY PARIS, see Boston Market.

ITALIAN GIANT.—There are two or more forms of this variety in the market. For example: Vick sells "Italian Giant;" Gregory, "Italian Early Giant;" the Plant Seed Company, "Italian Early Giant Autumnal;" Vilmorin, "Half-Early Italian Giant (new);" Frotzer, "Late Italian Giant;" and Vilmorin, "Late Giant Italian Self-protecting." The early form or variety seems to be the most generally sold by our seedsmen, and is perhaps the one indicated when the simple name Italian Giant is used. Gregory calls the Early Italian Giant a "fine, large white-headed early Variety." Frotzer says it is not quite so late as the Late Italian, almost as large, and in every way satisfactory. The Late Italian Giant, he says, is grown to a considerable extent in the neighborhood of New Orleans, and is the largest of all the cauliflowers and should not be sown later than June, as it requires from seven to nine months to head.

JOHNSON & STOKES' EARLY ALABASTER, see Alabaster.

KING, see Sutton's King.

KNICKERBOCKER.—An early Variety with "fine large compact snow-white heads of excellent flavor."—(E. & W. Hackett, Adelaide, Australia, 1889).

LACKAWANNA.—All American variety sent out by Tillinghast, about 1884, and said to be a little larger and later than Henderson's Snowball.

LANDRETH'S FIRST.—As grown at the New York experiment station in 1885, it was equal in earliness to the Early Dwarf Erfurt, and surpassed only by Henderson's Snowball.

LARGE ALGIERS, see Algiers.

LARGE ASIATIC, see Asiatic.

LARGE ERFURT.—A name sometimes applied to the ordinary Early Erfurt, in distinction from the Dwarf Erfurt.

LARGE EARLY DWARF ERFURT (Thorburn), see Early Erfurt.

LARGE EARLY LONDON.—Failed to head at the New York experiment station, in 1882. In 1885 a small proportion of the plants headed; it was the latest among 38 varieties.

LARGE EARLY WHITE ERFURT.—Brill calls this the lowest grade of the Erfurt type, succeeding admirably at times, but not to be depended on, and apt to grow with small fine leaves through the heads. See Early Erfurt.

LARGE LATE ALGIERS, see Algiers.

LARGE LATE ASIATIC, see Asiatic.

LARGE LATE WALCHEREN (Dreer), see Walcheren.

LARGE WHITE FRENCH.—A fine large white variety, catalogued by Gregory and others in 1890. Vilmorin calls it half-early.

LARGEST ASIATIC.—Taller and larger than the common Asiatic, but apparently no longer grown. The Gardener's Chronicle for 1848 mentions its being sold by Messrs. Schertzer, of Haarlem.

LAING'S EARLY ADVANCE.—A writer in the Gardener's Chronicle, for 1891, p. 121, states that he has grown it for the past three years and finds it a good variety, with close white heads of moderate size, protected by many well-incurved leaves, and ready for use about five months from the time of sowing the seed.

LATE DUTCH (Large Late Dutch).—Sold by several American seedmen. Probably distinct from Early Dutch.

LATE LENORMAND SHORT-STEM, see Lenormand Short-Stem.

LATE LONDON (Burpee and Ferry).—No description. See Asiatic and Large Early London.

LATE PARIS (Dur de Paris).—This, said Vilmorin in 1883, is the latest variety cultivated by the market gardeners around Paris. It differs from the Half Early Paris, especially in being a little later, and in having its head remain hard and solid a long time; but it is also distinguished by the appearance of its foliage, which is quite abundant, elongated, very much undulated, and of an intense green.

This variety is the least cultivated of the three generally grown at Paris. The gardeners use it only for the summer sowing to come at the end of the season. It is now being supplanted by other late sorts.

LATE WALCHEREN, see Walcheren.

LEFEVRE.—Said to have been one of the best four varieties for Central France in 1852, the others being Demi-dur de Paris (Half Early Paris), Early Duke, and Gros Salomon.

LE MAITRE PIED COURT.—As grown at the New York experiment station in 1885, it was rather early. Probably the same as the "Lemaitre" or Chambourcy Short-Stemmed, catalogued by Vilmorin in 1890.

LENORMAND (Ancient Lenormand, Late Lenormand, Lenormand Extra Large, Lenormand Mammoth).—Vilmorin said, in 1883: "It is now a score of years since the attention of the trade was called to this variety, principally because of its beauty and its great hardiness against cold. The Lenormand is in appearance but little different from the Half Early Paris (Demi-dur). The leaves are only a little larger. It certainly requires a little less care than other varieties, but its chief merit is having given birth to the Lenormand Short-stemmed, which is to-day one of the most generally prized."

M. May describes and figures this variety in the Revue Horticole for 1880. In the Journal of the Central Horticultural Society of France for 1857 is a report of a committee of that society upon this variety as grown on the grounds of M. Lenormand near Paris, it having been introduced by that gentleman in 1852 from Halle, in Central Germany, where it was then largely cultivated. The committee made a very flattering report, finding the Lenormand much finer than the other varieties, Half Early Paris, Erfurt, and Alma, growing in the same field.

In this country the Lenormand was formerly a popular variety, being frequently mentioned, as long ago as 1858, with the Early Paris as one of the two best varieties. Since then it has been displaced by the following:

LENORMAND SHORT-STEM.—This variety, derived from the Lenormand, is described by Vilmorin in 1883 as follows: "The aspect of this variety is very characteristic, and enables it to be distinguished easily from all others when it is well grown. The stem, extremely short, strong and stocky, is furnished down to the level of the earth with short, large, rounded leaves, slightly undulated except on the borders, very firm and stiff, and more spreading than upright; color deep green, slightly glaucous; head very large and solid, beautifully white, and keeping in condition a long time. This variety is early, productive, hardy against cold and drouth, and requires comparatively little room. Its rapid extention in cultivation within the last few years is not therefore surprising."



To this it may be added that the variety is sold by nearly all our American seedmen and is a popular variety for a fall crop, especially at the South. Its large, solid, cream-colored heads are not however as well protected by the leaves as those of most other medium early or late sorts.

LENORMAND'S SHORT-STEMMED MAMMOTH (Lenormand's Extra Large Short-Stemmed).—This appears to be a selection from the Lenormand Short-stem. It is offered under the second of the above names by Vilmorin, and under the first by Gregory and other American seedsmen.

LONG ISLAND BEAUTY (Brill), see Early Padilla. At the Colorado station, in 1888, seeds of Long Island Beauty obtained from Low appeared to be an inferior stock, and gave heads which were loose and yellowish. For the origin of this variety see Early Padilla.

MALTA GIANT (Burpee), see Giant Malta.

MARTIN'S PRESIDENT.—As grown by Mr. R. Gilbert at Burghley, England, in 1885, this variety stood the exceptionally dry season better than Best of All, Snowball, Early Erfurt, or Veitch's Autumn Giant.—(Gardening Illustrated, 1885, p. 438).

MAULE'S PRIZE EARLIEST, see Prize.

MITCHELL'S HARDY EARLY.—Said by F. Burr, in 1866, to be "a new variety, bouquet not large, but handsome and compact. It is so firm that it remains an unusual length of time without running to seed or becoming pithy."

MODEL.—The Northrup, Braslan & Goodwin Co., of Minneapolis, Minnesota, the introducers of this variety, say in 1891: "The history of our Model cauliflower we can give you in a few words: We have for several years been testing cauliflower seed from as many growers as possible, in order to secure a variety which we could identify with our name. We have never been fully satisfied until two years ago, when we received from a foreign grower a sample for trial. Upon testing this seed in our experimental grounds we found it so desirable that we arranged for the stock we are now selling, and which gives excellent satisfaction wherever grown. There are other varieties which produce as good heads and as early, but in our growths of this sort we have found a larger proportion of large, white, perfect heads than in any other strains we have tested."

MOHAWK WHITE CAP (Nellis).—"Rather larger and later than Early [Extra Early] Erfurt and seems to be identical with Snowball from the same firm."—(Ohio Exp. Station, 1889)

MT. BLANC.—Said by Buist, in 1890, to be one of the largest and finest for forcing, or the general crop. Stem medium; heads large, snow-white, well protected by the leaves, and of delicate flavor.

At the Oregon experiment station, in 1890, Carter's Mt. Blanc resembled Perfection in growth, but had somewhat larger heads.

NAPLES, GIANT, see Veitch's Autumn Giant.

NARROW-LEAVED ERFURT, see Small-Leaved Erfurt.

NE PLUS ULTRA.—A fine early variety, derived from the Giant Naples, having well-filled heads, often nine inches in diameter. Highly recommended by Wolfner and Weisz of Vienna, but little grown in this country.

NONPAREIL.—In most American catalogues this is given as synonymous with Half Early Paris. Buist and Rawson catalogue it as a separate variety, and Brill mentioned it in 1872 as a distinct variety. At the New York experiment station, in 1885, a variety called Thorburn's Nonpareil matured among the half-early sorts at the same time as Lenormand Short-stem. J. M. Thorburn & Co. write me in 1891 that Nonpareil is a name which they gave to the Half Early Paris when they first introduced that variety to the trade in this country.

NORTHRUP, BRASLAN & GOODWIN CO.'S MODEL, see Model.

PADILLA, see Early Padilla.

PALERMO VIOLET.—A variety catalogued by Wolfner and Weisz, of Vienna, in 1888.

PAQUES.—A variety with fine white heads, usually classed with the Broccolis. Catalogued by Vilmorin, in 1890.

PARIS, see Early Paris.

PEARCE'S SNOW-STORM (J. S. Pearce & Co.'s Snow-Storm).—This variety, introduced by these seedsmen, of London, Canada, 1886, appears from their description to be a selection from the Dwarf Erfurt.

PEARL (Veitch's Pearl).—A good second-early sort sent out about eight years ago; said by some to be too near King in character. It seems to be no longer grown.

PERFECTION (March's No. 9).—Received from H. A. March, of Fidalgo, Washington, and grown at the Oregon experiment station in 1890, it was found to be equally good with Snowball, and similar in growth to Mt. Blanc, but with a little smaller head. Mr. March writes me as follows, under date of April 3, 1891:

"My Early Perfection, or 'No. 9,' was a sport or, 'stray seed' found among some Erfurt Earliest Dwarf, imported seed; and being the first in the field to form a head by over a week, I naturally saved it for 'stock seed,' and as it propagated itself perfectly, and as it was perfection itself, I named it Early Perfection. I am not aware of another by the name of Perfection in the market."

PICPUS EARLY HARDY.—At the New York experiment station in 1885 this proved to be a large, rather early sort. Vilmorin includes it in his latest catalogue, but it is not in the American catalogues.

PRIZE (Maule's Prize Earliest).—An Erfurt variety sent out, by Wm. H. Maule, of Philadelphia.

PURITAN, see Early Puritan.

RAWSON'S EXTRA EARLY SEA FOAM.—Said by Rawson in 1886 to be the best forcing variety; dwarf, very compact, with large, firm, well-rounded heads, pure white, and of the best quality. At the Ohio experiment station in 1889 it appeared to be the same as Early [Extra Early] Erfurt.

RICE'S GIANT SNOWBALL.—A late sort, which failed to head well at the New York experiment station in 1883.

ST. BRIEUC, see Half Early St. Brieuc.

SMALL-LEAVED ERFURT (Earliest Dwarf Small-Leaved Erfurt, Narrow-Leaved Erfurt).—This, according to Brill, differs from "Erfurt Extra Dwarf Earliest" in having very narrow, pointed leaves which grow perfectly upright, thus adapting it for close cultivation or for forcing. It grows rapidly, which adapts it for spring cultivation; and for a fall crop it may be sown later than any other variety—on Long Island usually as late as July 1st.

SNOW'S WINTER WHITE.—A late variety usually classed with the Broccolis.

SNOWBALL, see Early Snowball.

STADTHOLDER.—Burr, in 1866, said, "A recent variety introduced from Holland.... In the vicinity of London, where it is largely cultivated for the mediate between the Early Dutch and Walcheren. The stem is a little shorter than that of other Holland cauliflowers [which have rather tall stems], and the leaves are more undulated on the border." The Stadtholder appears to be a good sort, but hardly equal to Autumn Giant and some others which protect the head better, and which have now largely displaced it in cultivation. It has never been grown to any extent in the United States.

SURPRISE, see Early Dwarf Surprise.

SUTTON'S FAVORITE.—Said by Sutton & Sons, of Reading, England, to be seven to twelve days earlier than Early London, of level and compact habit, and good to succeed Sutton's Magnum Bonum.

SUTTON'S FIRST CROP.—Said to be the earliest to head, very dwarf and compact, having snowy white heads, and so few leaves that it may be planted closer than any other kind.

SUTTON'S KING.—Said by Sutton & Sons to be "the best cauliflower for general use, coming in immediately after Sutton's Favorite. Plant dwarf and compact, with large, firm, beautifully white heads. Endures drouth well. Said to produce a greater weight on a given area than other market, it is considered equal, if not superior, to the Walcheren." Vilmorin describes it as follows: "Very near Early Dutch, being distinguished mainly by being a few days later, being thus inter-variety. Heads have been grown weighing 28 pounds."

SUTTON'S MAGNUM BONUM.—Sutton in 1888 says: "We introduced this cauliflower to our customers last year as the finest and most delicately flavored variety we have grown." Heads large, firm, snowy white; plant medium early, of strong, dwarf, habit and broad leaves, which "are serviceable for shading the heads."

SUTTON'S SNOWBALL.—A very early dwarf variety mentioned in the Garden in 1875.

TARANTO.—Offered as new by J. M. Thorburn, in 1891, and said to be very large and to resemble Autumn Giant.

THORBURN'S EARLY SNOWBALL (Thorburn, 1890).—No description.

THORBURN'S GILT EDGE.—Gregory says in 1890: "This is undoubtedly the finest strain of the Snowball variety. It is a little later and larger than the common Snowball, and can be left longer in the field without decaying. I considered it the best of all the dozen varieties raised in my experimental grounds this season."

THORBURN'S NONPAREIL, see Nonpareil.

THORBURN'S WONDERFUL.—At the New York experiment station in 1883 this variety matured with Veitch's Autumn Giant and Walcheren, and was larger than either of those. At the same station in 1885 a variety called Wonderful, probably the same, was the latest of 30 sorts, being sown March 30th, set out May 4th, and gathered Oct. 27th.

VAUGHN'S EARLIEST DWARF ERFURT.—In his catalogue for 1891, Vaughn says that this is the highest priced and finest strain of the Earliest Dwarf Erfurt, imported from Erfurt Germany. This strain has been imported by him for several years. He remarks that many strains of Dwarf Erfurt are given special names by other seedsmen.

VEITCH'S AUTUMN GIANT (Autumn Giant, Giant Naples, Frankfort Giant).—No other new variety of cauliflower has attracted so much attention as this. It was introduced into England about 1869, since when it has become very popular there for a late crop and for summer. It is rather too late for the ordinary fall crop in this country, though a favorite with some growers on both the Atlantic and Pacific coasts.

It was described by Vilmorin in 1883, as follows, under the name Giant Naples, but is now sold by him as Autumn Giant: "Plant large and vigorous, stem rather tall, leaves abundant, somewhat undulated, of a deep green. The interior leaves turn in well over the head, which is very large, solid, and white. It is a late variety of the same period as Walcheren, but less hardy. At the north it can be employed for the latest crop in open air culture by being sown in April or May."

In 1884 Vincent Berthault gave the following account of this variety in the Revue Horticole: "This variety is still rare and little known in France. I planted it last year for trial and obtained results which were the admiration of all who saw them. It was from my small crop that I took the four which I had the honor to present to the Central Horticultural Society of France at its meeting on August 25, 1883. Some of these cauliflowers were 35 to 38 centimeters [more than a foot] in diameter, and weighed, including stem and leaves, 12 to 13 kilograms [nearly 30 pounds] which is extraordinary for this time of the year, when it is difficult to obtain cauliflowers of even ordinary size. At one time I feared that their size was to the detriment of their quality, but it has proved otherwise, and in all respects they are excellent, and as good as beautiful. In fact they are perfect.

"The general characters of the Autumn Giant differ materially from those of other varieties.

"The young seedlings become at once very tall and upright, and even after being set out and planted as deep as the first leaves they quickly assume their usual stellate appearance, and for about six weeks they are simply furnished with eight or ten long narrow leaves borne on a long stem. So up to this time the plants are not very promising, and one is tempted to pull them up; but after this the plants rapidly change in appearance; a dozen new leaves are quickly developed, and the plants take on a half-upright form which recalls that of the Half Early Paris variety. As to the head, it is more conical than flat. The leaves sometimes attain a length of 90 centimeters [nearly three feet], by 40 centimeters broad. It is then that extra care should be given. The waterings ought to be copious and frequent, especially at the time of the formation of the heads, when I apply about 10 to 15 litres of water to each head every other day. This, which certainly contributed to the good result, is how I grew my plants. I chose good soil, which I prepared during the winter, placing in the bottom of the furrow a good thickness of manure, and a month before planting, or even at the time of doing so, I spread on the surface a covering of decomposed manure, which I incorporated with the soil by means of ordinary tillage. I visited the plantation every day, not only to destroy the caterpillars, but to cover the heads with leaves, which it was necessary to look after at least every other day in order to preserve the whiteness of the heads. These attentions are indispensable if one would secure a product of first quality, free from insects. As to sowing the seed, it may be begun about the 15th of September, and the plants wintered over under hand-glasses, or in frames, to be set out in March, when heads will be obtained in July. The plants of this sowing may also be set in hot-beds in January and February, but this only in default of other varieties, for they will be too tall and spreading.

"It is in February, on a bed with mild heat and under glass, that I make my sowing to obtain plants which are to head in August and September, and which give my best returns. A final sowing may be made at the end of March or beginning of April; it matures its crop in October and November.

"My opinion of the Autumn Giant is that it is destined to play an important part in the market-gardening of the country when, probably in the near future, there shall have been produced dwarf varieties analogous to those which we already possess from other sorts."

VEITCH'S EARLY FORCING.—This variety "has small compact hearts, very close and white. The habit of the plant is dwarf and sturdy, and it is well adapted for forcing."—(Gardening Illustrated, 1885, p. 427). It is favorably mentioned by several writers in the Gardener's Chronicle for 1884 and 1885. In the Garden for 1882 Veitch's Early is said to be two weeks earlier than Early London.

VEITCH'S PEARL, see Pearl.

VEITCH'S SELF-PROTECTING.—Said by the Gardener's Chronicle, in 1874, to be a new variety, just tested by Mr. Veitch, much later than Autumn Giant, hardy, and very self-protecting.

VICK'S IDEAL.—James Vick says in 1890: "We introduced the 'Ideal' to public notice in 1886, and claimed for it superiority to any other variety in the following points: Reliability of heading, size and solidity of heads, earliness, and protective habit of inner leaves." Further tests by himself and others he says substantiate these claims. The plants are said to be very dwarf, with erect outer leaves. At the New York experiment station, in 1889, it was a few days later than the three other varieties on trial. At the Ohio station the same year it was considered one of the best strains of Early [Extra Early] Erfurt.

VIENNA CHILD.—Catalogued by Wolfner and Weisz, of Vienna, in 1888, at the highest price, as a fine new market-garden sort.

VIENNA EARLY DWARF, see Early Dwarf Vienna.

WAITE'S ALMA, see Alma.

WALCHEREN.—This old German variety is intermediate in character between the true cauliflowers and the broccolis, and it has, from the first, been frequently called Walcheren Broccoli. There seems to have originally been two varieties, Early and Late. The earliest appearance of the name Walcheren that I have seen is in an advertisement of Walcheren cauliflower seed in the Gardener's Chronicle for 1844. Since that time it has remained one of the most reliable and popular varieties with English growers.

McIntosh, in his "Book of the Garden," in 1855, said that it was hard to get pure seed: "The true Walcheren is distinguished from all others by its bluntly rounded and broad leaves, and the closeness and almost snowy whiteness of its heads, even when grown to a large size." Others, before this, state that it was sold on the Continent under the name of Early Leyden.

Burr, in 1866, records it as synonymous with both Early Leyden, and Legge's Walcheren broccoli or cauliflower. He describes it as resisting both cold and drouth better than other varieties, "stem short, leaves broad, less pointed and more undulated than those of the cauliflower usually are."

Vilmorin described it in 1883 as synonymous with Walcheren Broccoli, known in Holland as Late Walcheren. He said: "The latest and most hardy of the cauliflowers, and therefore intermediate between the cauliflowers and the broccolis, with which latter it is often classed. Stem high and strong, leaves elongated, rather stiff and upright, abundant, and of a slightly grayish green. The head forms very late, and is fine, large, and very white, of fine close grain. The seed requires to be sown at Walcheren, [an island on the coast of Holland] in April, in order to be certain of heading before frost. If sown later it often passes the winter and heads early in the spring."

Sibley, in 1887, sold this variety under the name of Early Walcheren, though giving it the usual characters and season of the ordinary late sort. Buist, in 1890, mentions it as a favorite, very hardy, late variety. It is sold by most of our seedsmen, but is less popular in this country than in England. Sutton, the English seedsman, describes it in his latest catalogue as an "excellent mid-season cauliflower." It is less liable to button in dry weather than most other varieties, but sometimes forms imperfect heads.

WEBB'S EARLY MAMMOTH.—A variety advertised as follows by Webb & Sons of Wordsley, Stourbridge, England, in The Garden, Feb. 9, 1878: "An excellent compact variety; stands the drought remarkably well; heads large, firm, and beautifully white. The best of all for the main crop."

WELLINGTON.—Introduced about 1860. Henderson & Co. describe it as the finest kind in cultivation; pure white; size of head over two feet in circumference, and as large as thirteen inches diameter; very dwarf, the stem not more than two or three inches from the soil, but with ample foliage; one of the hardiest varieties known, and said to withstand well the variable climate of the United States. C. G. Anderson & Sons of England, in 1880, claimed it to be earlier, white, and closer than Early London.

A writer in the New England Farmer, in 1871, speaks of it as larger than either Early Erfurt or Early Paris.

WONDERFUL, see Thorburn's Wonderful.

ORDER OF EARLINESS.

The following varieties cover the season, and are arranged in the order of earliness, as near as can be determined. Many well known kinds are omitted, and some little known sorts inserted, the only attempt being to form a scale of maturity:

Early Dwarf Erfurt. Extra Early Paris. Early London. Asiatic. Early Erfurt. Early Paris. Lenormand Short-Stem. Late Paris. St. Brieuc. Algiers. Veitch's Autumn Giant. Giant Naples. Veitch's Self-Protecting. Late Italian Giant. Walcheren.

VARIETY TESTS.

NEW YORK EXPERIMENT STATION (Geneva).—In 1883 the following twenty-two varieties were sown April 16, and eleven plants of each variety set out May 15. One variety, however, Rice's Giant Snowball, was sown May 13, and set out June 20. Treatment was the same as for cabbage.

- - Diameter First of largest VARIETY. head in No. of No. of head in days. plants. heads. inches. - - Algiers 159 6 5 9 Algerian Late 142 9 1 6 Berlin Dwarf 124 8 2 5 Carter's Defiance 124 7 6 Carter's Dwarf Mammoth 124 6 2 9 Earliest Dwarf Erfurt 124 10 4 7 Erfurt Early Dwarf 131 6 3 5 Early Dutch 142 7 3 6 Early London 129 6 4 9 Extra Early Paris 142 3 2 9 Gerry Island 133 3 3 6 Imperial 119 8 7 10 Italian Giant White 175 6 1 10 Large Late London 128 6 5 7 Large White French 105 8 8 6 Lenormand's Short-Stemm'd 128 5 5 8 Rice's Giant Snowball 152 7 1 4 Snowball 128 5 4 6 Stadtholder 128 6 5 9 Thorburn's Wonderful 128 4 4 6 Veitch's Autumn Giant 128 6 3 6 Walcheren 128 3 3 6 - -

In 1884, the following twenty varieties were grown. The seeds were sown in a green-house March 5 and 6, and the plants set out May 2. It appears from the table that some of the varieties called "late," formed heads earlier than others called "early." The Lenormand Extra Large was the earliest, forming its first head in 149 days, the Lackawanna heading a day later. None of the heads were extra large:

+ -+ -+ - First VARIETY. head in Plants Number of days. survived. heads. + -+ -+ - Dwarf Erfurt 182 4 4 Early Dutch or Early London 180 5 4 Early Dwarf Surprise 175 6 6 Eclipse 162 7 6 Half-Early Large White French 190 9 6 Half-Early Paris 197 8 7 Imperial 160 8 8 Lackawanna 150 9 8 Large Algiers 189 6 3 Large Late Asiatic 156 4 4 Large Late Stadtholder 8 3 Late Giant Italian 154 8 8 Late Paris 170 4 3 Lenormand's Extra Large 149 7 6 Lenormand's Short-Stemmed 161 8 6 Paris Extra Early 154 6 6 Sea Foam 182 3 2 Veitch's Autumn Giant 182 6 3 Very Dwarf Alleaume 189 8 6 Walcheren 182 6 4 + -+ -+ -

In 1885 the following varieties were planted in the green-house March 30, and sixteen plants of each, with a few exceptions, transplanted to the garden May 4. The plants of Algiers and Le Maitre Pied Court were transplanted May 20, and those of the Wonderful May 21. The plants were set in rows three and one-half feet apart, and eighteen inches apart in the rows. Many were destroyed by various causes, and though the places were twice reset there were many vacancies.

As will be seen, Henderson's Early Snowball (from Henderson in 1885) was the earliest, forming the first head July 8, or ninety-seven days from sowing the seed. The heads also were rather above the average in size. Extra selected Dwarf Erfurt was the second in earliness and every plant headed.

A notable fact brought out by this table is the effect of the early planting on the late and half-early varieties. It might be supposed, as these varieties require a long season, that this early planting would give the best results, enabling them to attain their full development. But it appears that it caused many of the plants to head prematurely when small, while it greatly prolonged the season of the variety.

- - Average VARIETY. First No. of No. of diameter head. plants. heads. of head. - - Algiers Aug. 14 22 19 7-1/2 Alleaume Sept. 24 5 4 7 Autumn Giant " 24 17 17 7 D'Alger " 15 14 12 7-1/2 Demi dur de St. Brieuc " 15 11 11 7 Early Dutch (dur d' Holland) Aug. 25 12 8 5 Early Dwarf Erfurt (Thorburn) July 13 11 11 5-1/2 Early Dwarf Erfurt (Vilmorin) " 13 5 4 5-1/2 Early London Aug. 25 16 12 7-1/2 Early Paris July 25 11 6 5-1/2 Early Picpus Aug. 5 12 10 8 Early Snowball July 31 17 15 7 Extra E. Dw'f Erfurt (Hend'son) Sept. 27 18 8 6 Extra E'ly Dw'f Erfurt (Thorb'n) July 13 12 11 5-1/2 Extra Earliest Paris (Vilmorin) Aug. 10 7 6 7-1/2 Extra Early Paris July 25 13 6 6-1/2 Extra Selected E'ly Dwarf Erfurt " 21 13 13 5 Half Early Dwarf French " 25 12 7 7-1/2 Half Early Paris (Thorburn) Aug. 24 12 11 6-1/2 Half Early Paris (Vilmorin) Sept. 15 11 11 7 Henderson's Early Snowball July 8 12 9 7-1/2 Imperial Aug. 10 10 8 6-1/2 Landreth's First July 13 6 5 5-1/2 Large Early London Oct. 27 14 4 6 Large Late Asiatic Aug. 25 11 7 8 Late Giant Naples Oct. 17 5 3 4 Late Paris Aug. 12 10 7 7-1/2 Late Stadtholder Oct. 7 11 6 5-1/2 Le Maitre Pied Court Aug. 14 15 13 7 Lenormand Sept. 15 12 10 6-1/2 Len'm'd Short-stem'd (Hend'son) Aug. 14 20 11 6 Len'm'd Short-stem'd (Vilmorin) July 25 12 7 7 Purple Cape (Noir de Sicilie) Aug. 10 12 8 6-1/2 Thorburn's Nonpareil " 14 7 6 8-1/2 Veitch's Autumn Giant Sept. 24 13 11 7-1/2 Walcheren (Henderson) " 1 4 4 7-1/2 Walcheren (Vilmorin) Aug. 5 6 6 7 Wonderful Oct. 27 7 6 6 - - -

The following early varieties were tested in 1888. The seeds were all sown May 10, and the plants set out June 23, two by three and one-half feet. All the varieties headed well, except one called "Early," from the English Specialty and Novelty Seed Co., which formed no heads.

- - - Seeds No. of No. of Fit for VARIETY. from. plants. heads. table use. - - - Dreer's E'st Snowstorm Dreer. 11 8 Sept. 24 Earliest Dwarf Erfurt Vaughn. 9 5 " 6 Extra E. Dwarf Erfurt Tillinghast. 9 4 " 29 Gilt-edge Snowball Thorburn. 12 10 Aug. 25 Henderson's E. Snowb'l Henderson. 12 8 Sept. 6 Long Island Beauty Tillinghast. 11 8 " 14 Long Island Beauty Bragg. 12 11 Aug. 25 New Early Padilla Tillinghast. 11 8 " 29 - - -

At the same station, in 1889, the following varieties were tested. The seed was sown in frames April 23, and the plants set out June 22. The Early Erfurt and Early Snowball were from seed grown by H. A. March, of Fidalgo, Washington.

+ + + -+ + - Number Fit for Number Seed of table of Average VARIETY. from Plants use heads diameter + + + -+ + - Inches Early Puritan Ferry. 20 Aug. 21 13 5-1/2 Early Erfurt March. 20 " 22 19 8-1/2 Snowball. March. 20 " 24 20 7-1/2 Vick's Ideal Vick. 20 " 30 20 7 + + + -+ + -

The season of 1889 was uncommonly favorable for the cauliflower, and it will be seen from the above table that these varieties headed with greater uniformity and from two to four weeks earlier than the same or similar varieties the preceding year.

COLORADO EXPERIMENT STATION (Fort Collins).—The following report, slightly condensed, from the report of the Colorado experiment station for 1888, will be useful for comparison: "Seed of sixteen varieties of cauliflower was sown April 12 in hot-bed and transplanted to the open ground May 7. They were irrigated at planting time, and on May 14 and 28, June 11, July 5 and 20, August 3 and 15 and on September 5. The area in crop was one-third of an acre and the stand nearly perfect. The plants were hoed twice and cultivated six times. The soil, a clay loam, was lacking in fertility for the best culture of the cabbage and the cauliflower. Of the varieties grown, Henderson's Snowball was the best, with the latter's Erfurt a good second. These two types, when well selected, are the only ones that can be relied upon to give profitable results in Colorado."

It will be noticed in the table that Early Paris and Early London, two varieties which have long been popular at the East, entirely failed to head.

+ + -+ - VARIETY. Seed from Mature REMARKS. + + -+ - Early Snowball. Henderson. July 20. Heads compact, very white, leaves smaller, very uniform. Extra E. Erfurt. Henderson. Aug. 6. Heads fairly solid and white, leaves large. Extra Early Paris. Landreth. Aug. 24. Heads solid and white, leaves very large. Early Paris. Ferry. No heads formed. Early Snowball. Landreth. Aug. 6. Heads compact, very white, plant dwarf, small leaves. Gerry Island. Gregory. No heads formed. Select Dwarf Erfurt Landreth. July 24. Heads large and compact, very white and uniform. Burpee's Earliest. Burpee. July 30. Heads compact and white, leaves large. Lenormand. Landreth. Sept. 20. Heads solid and white, plant vigorous and dwarf. Long Isl'd Beauty. Low. Aug. 24. Heads loose, yellowish white, inferior stock. Algiers. Landreth. Oct. 10. Heads solid and large, plant vigorous, leaves very large. Walcheren. Landreth. No heads formed. Large L. Dutch. Landreth. Oct. 10. Heads fairly compact, plant vigorous & large. Late London. Ferry. No heads formed. Landreth's First. Landreth. Aug. 24. Heads solid, very white, of superior quality. Vick's Ideal. Low. Aug. 6. Heads solid, yellowish white, leaves large. + + -+ -

MICHIGAN EXPERIMENT STATION (Lansing).—The Michigan experiment station is connected with the Agricultural College, located at Lansing, at the geographical centre of the Lower Peninsula. It is, therefore, remote from any large body of water, and although the soil in that portion of the state is mainly a strong loam suitable for cauliflower, it is only in favorable seasons that good cauliflowers can be obtained.

In the exceptionally favorable season of 1889, some of the sorts then prominently before the public, were grown at the college, all of which gave very good results, with the exception of Autumn Giant, which failed to germinate. The American grown seeds, from H. A. March, of Fidalgo, Washington, were large and plump and gave strong vigorous plants, and as good or better results than is usually obtained from imported seed. The following varieties were sown March 13, and set out May 14. It was difficult to detect any difference between Puritan, Gilt Edge, Denmark, Prize Earliest, Best Early, Snowball, and Erfurt, as they showed less variation than appeared between the same sorts from different seedsmen.

The title "edible maturity" in the table refers to the period at which the heads might be cut for one's own use, that is when they had attained the size of one's two fists. "Marketable maturity" is when they had completed their growth and would remain solid no longer.

-+ -+ -+ + + Appearance of Per cent young plants, Edible Mark't'ble forming Varieties. Source. March 29. Maturity Maturity. heads. -+ -+ -+ + + Burpee's Best Early Burpee. Small; even. Aug. 5 Aug. 10 100 Denmark Vaughn. Good; even. July 26 Aug. 10 83 Earliest Dwarf Erfurt Maule. Good; even. Aug. 27 Sept. 14 67 Erfurt Earliest Dwarf March. Small; even. Aug. 10 Aug. 27 92 Early Snowball Henderson Very weak; Aug. 5 Aug. 10 100 uneven. Early Puritan Ferry. Small; even. Aug. 7 Aug. 13 92 Gilt Edge Thorburn. Weak; uneven. July 26 Aug. 8 93 Maule's Prize Maule. Small; somewhat July 24 Aug. 8 83 Earliest uneven. Snowball March. Good; even. July 24 Aug. 8 100 -+ -+ -+ + +

THE BEST VARIETIES.

The points to consider in selecting varieties are first, earliness or time of maturity; second, the certainty of their forming good heads. The importance of having well grown seed has already been mentioned. This being secured, the choice of varieties is largely a matter of circumstances. A variety which is good for one climate, or for one purpose, may not be good for another. For the early crop, an account of which has already been given, the earliest variety obtainable should be used, as our springs at the North are short enough at best. The Earliest Dwarf Erfurt strains include nearly all the earliest varieties now grown, and, for this country, at least, are the best. The typical variety is usually sold under the name Extra Early Dwarf Erfurt, and if properly selected seed is secured, this is nearly or quite as early as any of the strains which have received special names. Among the best of these latter are Henderson's Snowball, Thorburn's Gilt Edge, and Vick's Ideal, the latter a little the largest and latest. For growing under glass the first two of these varieties are as good as any. The earliest varieties are now often grown also for the fall crop, particularly at the North, by being sown late. Their greater certainty to head on time, and the increased number that can be grown on an acre, renders them especially valuable.

A variety which in the past has given the most general satisfaction for the fall crop is Early Paris. Of the later maturing varieties, Veitch's Autumn Giant and Lenormand Short-stem, have been, and are still, popular, especially at the South. At present probably more than three-fourths of the cauliflowers grown in this country are of the new varieties of the Dwarf Erfurt group. For the North, especially, these are now the most reliable and are increasing in popularity.



CHAPTER IX.

BROCCOLI.

The Broccolis are so similar to the cauliflowers that some account of them may be expected in a treatise on the latter vegetable. In fact, no important structural difference between the two vegetables exists, the broccolis being merely a more robust and hardy group of varieties, requiring a longer period for development, and adapted, in mild climates, to cultivation during the winter. They are, in fact, often called "winter cauliflowers." They receive but little attention in the United States, where the winters, at least at the north, in the vicinity of the leading markets, are too severe for the out-door growth of vegetables of any kind. For this reason cauliflowers, which come to maturity in a single season, are grown instead. The supply of these two vegetables, therefore, which in western Europe, by means of successive sowings of varieties of both cauliflowers and broccolis, may be maintained the year round, is here, owing to the conditions of our climate, confined chiefly to the seasons of the year in which cauliflower can be obtained.

Although no sharp distinctions can be drawn between broccolis and cauliflowers, there are certain general differences which separate them. As has been said, the broccolis are all of them hardier than the cauliflowers, and require a longer time in which to develop, so that in climates having mild winters they are usually treated as biennials. In France, the seed which is sown about the first of May gives plants which head the following spring before the early cauliflowers come in. The plants are sometimes enabled to pass the winter more safely by being taken up and planted again in a slanting position.

In the appearance of the heads no difference exists between cauliflowers and broccolis, except that the latter are usually smaller, less compact, and sometimes purple or sulphur colored. All cauliflowers (with one or two exceptions), have white compact heads. The stems of the broccolis are usually taller than those of cauliflowers, the leaves more numerous, larger, stiffer, but more undulated, more rounded at the apex, and more frequently having a distinct stem or petiole. The mid-ribs and principal veins are large and white, except in varieties having colored heads, when they have the same color as the head. The color of the leaves is always more glaucous, that is, of a darker and more bluish green, than is usual in the cauliflowers.

Broccolis, especially the colored varieties, are sometimes said to be more tender in texture and finer in flavor than the cauliflowers. This, however, is due only to the fact that they usually head in cool weather. When grown under the same conditions the cauliflowers are milder than the broccolis, and although to some tastes the more pronounced flavor of the latter may be preferred, most persons use broccoli only because in the winter season fresh cauliflowers cannot be obtained.

Nearly every one prefers cauliflower to broccoli, and the mild white varieties to the colored varieties of the latter vegetable. Broccolis sometimes acquire a bitter taste, the cause of which is not known. The methods of using the two vegetables are the same, except that the branching or sprouting broccolis are also cooked like asparagus.

The early history of the broccoli has already been treated in connection with that of the cauliflower.

The number of varieties of broccoli in cultivation is probably somewhat less than those of the cauliflower, but the differences between the varieties themselves are greater. Messrs. Sutton & Sons, of Reading, England, catalogue thirty-six varieties of broccoli and only eleven of cauliflower. Most of these varieties originated in England, where broccoli is more largely grown than anywhere else. Two groups of broccolis may be recognized, the "sprouting broccolis," which do not form compact heads, and the improved varieties with well formed heads, known as "cauliflower broccolis." The latter differ but little in any way from true cauliflowers.

The requirements of cultivation for the broccolis are practically the same as those for cauliflowers. Their value depends mainly on their greater hardiness, and on this account they are likely, at the South where the winters are mild enough, to become more extensively cultivated. They do not, however, endure hot weather as well as cauliflowers, and on this account it is doubtful if they ever become as largely grown anywhere in this country as they are in England.

The question of protecting them in winter, and the amount and kind of protection needed, depend of course on the severity of the winters. In Northern Florida, where cauliflowers are liable to be killed during winter, broccolis will stand out without any protection. In localities where but little protection is required, it may be afforded by loosening the roots and turning the plants down upon their sides. If more protection is needed they may be taken up and set in trenches and partly covered with straw and boards. Broccolis stand shipment better than cauliflowers. This is not only because they are generally handled in colder weather, but because they are somewhat coarser and firmer in texture. They do not sell for quite so good a price as cauliflowers. There are seven varieties catalogued by American seedsmen, of which the Early Purple Cape is the best adapted to our climate.



CHAPTER X.

COOKING CAULIFLOWER.

"Of all the flowers in the garden, I like the Cauliflower best." DR. SAMUEL JOHNSON.

Dr. Johnson appreciated good living, and therefore it is not surprising that he should have left on record this tribute to the most delicate and finely flavored of all the cabbage family.

Cauliflower is so rarely seen in market in the United States, except in large cities, that comparatively few of our people are accustomed to using it. On this account a variety of receipts for cooking cauliflower are here given, in order to make the methods of using this excellent vegetable more widely known. Americans, especially, need to become familiar with its use; for to the English, French, and Germans, who have known it in the Old World, it needs no introduction.

Cauliflower lends itself readily to both plain and fancy methods of cooking. It is easy of digestion, and is an especial favorite with those who, from any reason, are unable to readily digest cabbage. Besides, it is more nutritious than the cabbage, and it is not exceeded in this particular by any other garden vegetable.

The following tables show the comparative composition of fresh cabbage and cauliflower, and the composition of the ash of the latter. It will be noticed that the percentage of ash and indigestible fibre is low in the cauliflower, and the amount of nitrogenous and starchy matter high.

ANALYSIS OF CABBAGE AND CAULIFLOWER. (Koenig's Nohrungsmittel, pp. 715, 717).

- Cabbage. Cauliflower. - Water 89.97 90.87 Nitrogenous bodies 1.89 2.48 Fat 0.20 0.34 Sugar 2.29 1.21 Nitrogen free extract 2.58 3.34 (starch, dextrine, etc.) Fiber 1.84 0.91 Ash 1.23 0.83 -

ANALYSIS OF CAULIFLOWER ASH. (Whitner's Gardening in Florida).

Potassa 34.39 Soda 14.79 Lime 2.96 Magnesia 2.38 Sulphuric Acid 11.16 Silicic Acid 1.92 Phosphoric Acid 25.87 Phosphate of Iron 3.67 Chloride of Sodium 2.78

Cauliflower is not wholly free from the odor which renders the cooking of cabbage so unpleasant, but in this respect it is much less objectionable than cabbage. As with cabbage, this odor is in some cases more marked than in others, depending on the character of the soil, and the quantity and nature of the manure used. A small piece of red pepper added to the water in which cauliflower or cabbage is boiled prevents to a large extent this unpleasant odor and improves their flavor. To obviate the "strong" flavor which these vegetables acquire when large quantities of stable manure are used the heads should be parboiled in the morning of the day on which they are wanted. They are then put on a hair sieve and placed in the larder. Twenty minutes before they are wanted for the table they are to be reboiled steadily until the strong taste is gone.

When cauliflowers are preserved in a shed or cellar they often become more or less wilted and strong in flavor, and can then be rendered palatable only by cutting them off from the stalks on the previous day and throwing them into cold, salted water, frequently changing it until they are wanted; in this way the heads become plumped up, and the strong disagreeable smell and taste which they have acquired is in some degree removed; but even under the most careful treatment they lose their fine, white cauliflower color.

To remove any caterpillars or other insects which may have found lodgment in the cauliflower head it should be examined as carefully as possible, opening it a little if necessary. It should then be placed top down in cold salt water for an hour; or, better still, in cold water and vinegar. This is believed to be particularly effective in dislodging any insect life that may be present. If the heads seem badly infested, however, which they seldom are, the only safe way is to break them up before cooking.

In cooking the heads whole, which is a favorite method, care is needed not to boil too long, so as to cause the head to come to pieces. To prevent any danger of breaking the head in cooking, it should be wrapped in cheese cloth or other similar material, in which it is to be handled.

Cauliflower is in season in this country from June until December, but is most abundant during the month of October. Those found in market during the hottest summer months are apt to be dark in color, somewhat strong in flavor, and filled with small leaves. Broccoli is cooked in nearly all cases precisely as cauliflower.

Porcelain lined or similarly guarded pots should be used in which to cook these vegetables, as iron is liable to impart to them a dark color.

The use of earthenware vessels in which to cook vegetables of the cabbage tribe is recommended as follows by a writer in the American Garden:

"To have any of the Brassicae in proper flavor we must go to the German housewives and learn of them to cook cabbage, cauliflower, etc., in earthenware instead of metal. The German potters make stout boilers, like huge bean-pots, that hold six or eight cabbages, for restaurant cooking, and they are quite a different vegetable treated in this way. Try the experiment; put a cabbage in a stone jar with plenty of water, cover tight and boil till tender. I think it does not take as long to cook in this way as in ordinary kettles, the steady mild heat softening the tissues more steadily than the open boiling. And there is little or no smell to cabbage or onions cooked in a close stone pot in the oven. A cabbage baked in its own steam in such a pot and served with hot vinegar and butter is a high-flavored dish."

A writer in the Rural New Yorker sums up the prime requirements in cooking cauliflower as follows:

"Four rules never to be deviated from may be laid down: first, that the cauliflower is to be soaked in salt and water for at least a half hour before cooking, in order to drive out any insects or worms that may be lurking among the flowerets; second, (if to be boiled) when ready for cooking the vegetable is to be plunged into salted, thoroughly boiling water; third, it is not to be cooked a moment after it becomes tender; fourth, to be served as soon as done. Neglect of any of these points is sure to result in failure, while a careful following of them will give a wholesome, delicate dish, and one that will be eaten with gusto and remembered with pleasure."

A very simple method of serving cauliflower is with milk and butter, after the manner of cabbage, but a more elaborate white sauce generally accompanies it. This is the familiar drawn butter sauce, to which may be added a little vinegar or lemon juice, to give piquancy of flavor. Sometimes this sauce is varied by adding milk or cream to the flour and butter, when it is called "cream sauce."

The receipts given below are chiefly from the following four recent works on cookery:

"Good Living," by Sara Van Buren Brugiere; G. P. Putnam's Sons, New York and London, 1890.

"The Buckeye Cook-Book"; Buckeye Publishing Company, Minneapolis, 1887.

"Our Home Cyclopedia," by Edgar S. Darling; Mercantile Publishing Company, Detroit, 1889.

"Mrs. A. B. Marshall's Cookery Book"; Marshall's School of Cookery, London, 1888.

1. BOILED (Gardener's Text Book).—The head should be cut with most of the surrounding leaves attached, which are to be trimmed off when the time comes for cooking. Let it lie half an hour in salt and water, and then boil it in fresh water for fifteen or twenty minutes, until a fork will easily enter the stem. Milk and water are better than water alone [a little sweet milk tends to keep the heads white]. Serve with sauce, gravy or melted butter.

2. BOILED (American Agriculturist).—Boil in water, slightly salted—never with meat. When tender, which will usually be with twenty minutes cooking, take up and drain and cover with drawn butter (white sauce, made with butter, flour and water) and serve hot. They are usually eaten without other addition, but some dress with pepper and vinegar—the same as they do cabbage.

3. BOILED (Good Living).—Trim off the outside leaves, leaving one row around the flower. Cut an X in the stalk. Have a large pot of boiling water on the fire. Add enough milk to whiten the water; also one level teaspoonful of salt. The cauliflower should be left in vinegar and water for twenty to thirty minutes before boiling. This system is supposed to draw out any insects that may lurk within. Drain it thoroughly; tie it loosely in a piece of cheese-cloth large enough to cover it entirely. Put it into the boiling water, which must cover it well. Let it boil until quite tender, but be careful that it does not go to pieces. As cauliflowers vary very much in size, only a general idea of the time required can be given. One of ordinary size will take about forty minutes, perhaps more. When cooked lift it out by the cheese-cloth, drain very thoroughly, and set in a round dish. Make a cream sauce (No. 42), pour it over the cauliflower, cover, and let it stand for a few minutes for the sauce to penetrate. Then serve. Or, if a handsome specimen successfully boiled, serve it in a round dish with a white sauce (No. 41) served separately in a sauce-boat. Add a squeeze of lemon juice to the sauce before serving. Small cauliflowers will not require more than thirty minutes to boil.

4. BOILED (Buckeye Cook Book).—To each two quarts of water allow a heaping teaspoon of salt; choose close and white cauliflower; trim off decayed outside leaves, and cut stock off flat at bottom. Open flower a little in places to remove insects, which are generally found around the stalk, and let cauliflowers lie with head downward in salt and water for two hours previous to dressing them, which will effectually draw out all vermin. Then put in boiling water, adding salt in above proportion, and boil briskly for fifteen or twenty minutes over a good fire, keeping saucepan uncovered. Water should be well skimmed, and when cauliflowers are tender, take up, drain, and if large enough, place upright in a dish; serve with plain melted butter, a little of which may be poured over the flowers; or a white sauce may be used, made as follows: Put butter size of an egg into saucepan, and when it bubbles stir in a scant half teacup of flour; stir well with an egg-whisk until cooked; then add two teacups of thin cream, some pepper and salt. Stir it over the fire until perfectly smooth. Pour the sauce over the cauliflower and serve. Many let the cauliflower simmer in the same sauce a few moments before serving.

Cauliflower is delicious served as a garnish around spring chicken, or with fried sweet-breads, when the white sauce should be poured over both. In this case it should be made by adding the cream, flour and seasoning to the little grease (half a teaspoon) that is left after frying the chickens or sweet-breads.

5. BAKED (Buckeye Cook Book).—Prepare as for boiling, and parboil five minutes; cut into pieces and put into a pie dish; add a little milk, season with salt, pepper and butter; cover with dry, grated cheese, and bake.

6. STEAMED (Mrs. M. P. A. Crozier).—Lay the nicely prepared cauliflower head in the deep dish from which it is to be served at table, sprinkle salt over it, place it in the steamer, cover closely, and steam till tender. Remove to the table, and pour over it rich, sweet cream, slightly salted and heated.

7. STEWED (Gardener's Chronicle).—Cut up your cauliflower into sprigs of convenient size to serve with a tablespoon, and throw them into cold water an hour before cooking. To stew them, have a stout, iron stewpan, white-enamelled inside—an ordinary tin saucepan or boiler will hardly do. Put a large lump of butter into your stewpan as you set it over a gentle fire; instead of butter you may use the fat taken from the top of cold roast meat gravy—that of beef or veal is preferable to that of mutton. As the grease melts, stir into it an onion chopped very fine, and a little flour and water; continue stirring until the whole is nicely browned; then put in your sprigged cauliflower, adding only just enough water or broth to cook it; season lightly with pepper and salt, and a very light dust of grated nutmeg, if not disapproved; let it stew gently till perfectly tender; when done the gravy should be so reduced as to be no more in quantity than is wanted to serve as sauce with the vegetable; for this reason the salt must be used with great moderation, otherwise, by concentration, the gravy would be converted into brine; transfer the cauliflower from the stewpan to a hot dish, and pour the reduced gravy over it.

Note that by this method nothing is lost. The natural and nutritive juices of the vegetable, the sugar and albumen, are retained instead of being drawn out and diluted by boiling in several pints of water, and consequently wasted and thrown away. Note also that this receipt is founded (like the directions for many other good dishes) on the roux—flour browned in butter—which is one of the grand elements in French cookery.

8. STEWED (Mr. S. J. Soyer[E]).—Cauliflower butter, salt, sugar, two and one-third ounces of flour, half a pint of cream, one-eighth of the soup from the cauliflower.

The cauliflower is cut into pieces, boiled slightly in salted water, taken out of the soup and put on a colander to drain. The butter and flour are baked together and thinned with the cream, and about the quantity of the soup above stated. The cauliflower is put into this sauce and again brought to a boil, whereupon it is served warm.

9. ESCALLOPED (Rural New Yorker).—Place a layer of the parboiled flowerets in a pudding dish, and cover them with cream sauce enough to moisten, with the addition of a little grated cheese, usually Parmesian; this is to be followed by another layer of this vegetable, and the whole covered with bread crumbs dotted with bits of butter.

10. ESCALLOPED (Buckeye Cook Book).—Boil till tender, drain well, and cut in small pieces; put in layers, with fine chopped egg, and this dressing: Half pint milk, thickened over boiling water, with two tablespoons flour and seasoned with two teaspoons salt, one of white pepper and two tablespoons butter; put grated bread over the top; dot it with small bits of butter and place it in the oven to heat thoroughly and brown. Serve in same dish in which it was baked. This is a good way to use common heads.

A nicer way is to boil them, then place them whole in a buttered dish with stems down. Make sauce with a cup of bread crumbs beaten to froth with two tablespoons melted butter and three of cream or milk, one well-beaten egg, and salt and pepper to taste. Pour this over the cauliflower, cover dish tightly, and bake six minutes in a quick oven, browning them nicely. Serve as above.

11. WITH STUFFING (Home Cyclopedia).—Take a saucepan, the exact size of the dish intended to be used. Cleanse a large, firm, white cauliflower, and cut into sprigs, throw those into boiling salt water for two minutes; then take them out, drain, and pack them tightly with the heads downward, in the saucepan, the bottom of which must have been previously covered with thin slices of bacon; fill up the vacant spaces with a stuffing made of three tablespoonfuls of finely minced veal, the same of beef suet, four tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs, a little pepper and salt, a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, a teaspoonful of minced chives and a dozen small mushrooms, chopped fine. Strew these ingredients over the cauliflowers in alternate layers and pour over them three well-beaten eggs. When these are well soaked add sufficient nicely-flavored stock to cover the whole; simmer gently till the cauliflowers are tender, and the sauce very much reduced; then turn the contents of the saucepan upside down on a hot dish, and the cauliflowers will be found standing in a savory mixture.

12. WITH SAUCE (Home Cyclopedia).—Boil a large cauliflower—tied in netting—in hot salted water, from twenty-five to thirty minutes; drain, serve in a deep dish with the flower upwards, and pour over it a cup of drawn butter in which has been stirred the juice of a lemon and a half teaspoonful of French mustard, mixed up well with the sauce.

13. WITH CURRY SAUCE (Mrs. Marshall).—Blanch (see note to No. 19) and plain boil the cauliflower for fifteen to twenty minutes till tender, then cut it up into nice long pieces, each sufficient for one person; place the pieces in a saute pan and pour the curry sauce (as for curry a la simla) over them; let it boil up, and then draw the pan to the side of the stove and let it stay there for ten or twelve minutes; dish the pieces up in the form of cutlets, pour the sauce over them, and garnish round the cauliflower with little bunches of grated cocoanut which have been warmed between two plates over boiling water. This is an excellent dish for luncheon or second course, or it may be served in place of an entree.

14. WITH TOMATO SAUCE (Good Living).—Having boiled a medium-sized cauliflower, very carefully as directed (No. 3) place it on a round dish, after having thoroughly drained it. Have ready a rich tomato sauce (No. 40) pour it around (not over) the cauliflower, and serve as a separate course. This is a very pretty dish.

15. WITH TOMATO SAUCE (Good Health).—Boil or steam the cauliflower until tender. In another dish prepare a sauce by heating a pint of strained stewed tomatoes to boiling, thickening with a tablespoonful of flour, and salting to taste. When the cauliflower is tender, dish, and pour over it the hot tomato sauce.

16. WITH MUSHROOMS (Buckeye Cook Book).—Put in a frying pan, in hot fat, a few small mushrooms and part of a cauliflower, broken into sprigs. Sprinkle over them some grated cheese, and baste the whole well from time to time with the hot fat.

17. WITH BRUSSELS SPROUTS (Mr. S. J. Soyer).—Cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, dotter of egg, butter, a tablespoonful of cream, half a pint of sauce for vegetables, potato pure—that is, bouillon thickened with mashed potatoes and strained.

Both cauliflower and sprouts are to be well cleaned, boiled separately in salt water and served on the pure, the cauliflower in the centre and the sprouts around it for garnishing. The sauce, to which is added the egg dotters, butter and cream, is poured hot over the cauliflower and sprouts.

18. AU GRATIN (Good Living).—Boil the cauliflower as directed. Set it in a round baking dish which can be sent to the table. For a moderate sized cauliflower make one pint of cream sauce (No. 42). Add to the sauce two heaping tablespoons each or grated Parmesian and Gruyere cheese and a dash of cayenne. Mix the sauce and pour it over the cauliflower, letting it penetrate all the crevices. Cover the top with fine grated bread crumbs, dot with butter, and bake twenty minutes. Serve in the same dish.

19. AU GRATIN (Mrs. Marshall).—Trim the cauliflower and blanch it[F]; put it to boil in boiling water till it is tender; then take up and drain. Butter the dish on which it is to be served and put on it about two tablespoonfuls of the sauce as below (No. 39); put the cauliflower on the sauce, then cover it over thickly with sauce, and smooth it all over with a palette knife; sprinkle it with browned bread crumbs; stand the dish in an ordinary baking tin containing about a pint of boiling water; place in the oven for about fifteen or twenty minutes, and when a nice golden color take it from the oven and sprinkle over it a very little grated Parmesian cheese. Stand the dish on another with a napkin, and serve very hot as a second course or luncheon dish.

20. AU GRATIN (Mr. S. J. Soyer).—Three cauliflower heads, salt, pepper, grated bread, two eggs, one-quarter pound grated Parmesian cheese, one-quarter pound grated Swiss cheese, one pint white sauce.

The cauliflowers are boiled rare, taken out and drained off. White sauce and spices are boiled thick and the egg dotters and cheese mixed with it. The cauliflowers are cut to pieces and put in layers with sauce between, on a dish or silver saucepan, are sprinkled with grated bread and cheese, put fifteen minutes into a hot oven to be browned with a salamander. Serve as an independent dish.

In place of "white sauce" butter and flour may be baked together and thinned with sweet milk.

21. CAULIFLOWER AU NATUREL (Mr. J. S. Soyer).—The stem of the white, solid cauliflower heads is cut off an inch from the head, and with a penknife is cleaned of the hard outer membrane, taking care to preserve the head as whole as possible; the head is then well rinsed in cold water, to which is added some vinegar to drive out larvae and the like; it is then boiled in salt water until it is tender, when it is taken up to drain off on a sieve or colander. It is to be served high on a napkin, with melted butter, common sauce for vegetables, Dutch sauce, veloute or maitre d'hotel sauce.

N. B.—For cauliflowers, and vegetables generally, the sauce ought to be rather thick, as it is impossible to have the vegetables run perfectly dry when they are to be served warm.

22. A LA FRANCAISE (Home Cyclopedia).—After trimming properly, cut the cauliflower into quarters, and put into a stewpan and boil until tender; drain and arrange it neatly on a dish. Pour over it melted butter.

23. A LA LOUIS XIV (Mr. S. J. Soyer).—Cauliflower, new-made butter, grated nutmeg, bouillon.

The cauliflower is to be repeatedly washed in lukewarm water, boiled with bouillon and a little nutmeg, drained and then shaken with butter over a fire. To be served as soon as the butter is melted.

24. A LA VARENNE (Mrs. Marshall).—Trim a cauliflower, and place it in salt and water for about one hour; then put it into cold water with a pinch of salt; bring to the boil, and then rinse the cauliflower and put it again into boiling water which is seasoned with salt, to cook till tender. When cooked, cut it in pieces and dish up in a coil; pour parsley sauce over, and garnish it round with braised carrots or a macedoine of vegetables, and place the cut up stalks of cauliflower in the centre. Serve for a luncheon or second course dish.

25. EN MAYONNAISE (Mr. S. J. Soyer).—Two heads of cauliflower, salt, pepper, sweet oil, estragon, chopped parsley, vinegar, oil-sauce.