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** How to Make a New Language [105]
Anyone possessing a phonograph can try a very interesting and amusing experiment without going to any expense. Remove the belt and replace with a longer one, which can be made of narrow braid or a number of strands of yarn. The new belt should be long enough to allow crossing it, thus reversing the machine. This reverses every sound on the record and changes it to such an extent that very few words can be recognized.
** How to Make a Cup-and-Saucer Rack [105]
The rack is made of any suitable kind of wood, and the sides, A, are cut just alike, or from one pattern. The shelves are made in various widths to fit the sides at the places where they are wanted. The number of shelves can be varied and to suit the size of the dishes. Cup hooks are placed on top and bottom shelves. It is hung on the wall the same as a picture from the molding. —Contributed by F. B. Emig, Santa Clara, Cal.
Reversing a Small Motor [105]
All that is necessary for reversing the motor is a pole-changing switch. Connect the two middle posts of the switch with each other and the two outside posts with each other. Then connect one of the outside posts of the switch to one brush of the motor and one middle post to the other brush.
Connect one bar of the switch to one end of the field coil and the other bar to one pole of the battery, and connect the other pole of the battery to the other field coil. To reverse the motor, simply change the switch.
Referring to the illustration, the letters indicate as follows: FF, field of motor; BB, brushes of motor; AA, bars of pole-changing switch; DD, center points of switch; CC, outside points of switch. —Contributed by Leonard E. Parker, Plymouth, Ind.
** To Drive Away Dogs [106]
The dogs in my neighborhood used to come around picking up scraps. After I connected up my induction coil, as shown in the sketch, we were not bothered with them. A indicates the ground; B, switch; and C, a bait of meat, or a tempting bone.
—Contributed by Geo. W. Fry, 903 Vine St., San Jose, Cal.
** An Automatic Lock [106]
The illustration shows an automatic lock operated by electricity, one cell being sufficient. When the circuit is broken a weight, A, attached to the end of the armature B, tends to push the other end of the armature into the screw eye or hook C, which is in the door, thus locking the door.
To unlock the door, merely push the button E, The magnet then draws the armature out of the screw eye and the door is unlocked. The dotted line at D shows the position of the armature when the circuit is complete and the door unlocked. The weight must be in proportion to the strength of the magnet. If it is not, the door will not
lock, or would remain locked. The button can be hidden, as it is the key to the lock. —Contributed by Claude B. Melchior, Hutchinson, Minn.
** Experiment with Two-Foot Rule and Hammer [106]
An example of unstable equilibrium is shown in the accompanying sketch. All that is needed is a 2-foot rule, a hammer, a piece of string, and a table or bench. The experiment works best
with a hammer having a light handle and a very heavy head.
Tie the ends of the string together, forming a loop, and pass this around the hammer handle and rule. Then place the apparatus on the edge of the table, where it will remain suspended as shown. —Contributed by Geo. P. Schmidt, Culebra, Porto Rico, W. I.
** Simple Current Reverser [107]
On a block of hardwood draw a square (Fig. 1) and drill a hole in each corner of the square. Fill these holes with mercury and connect them to four binding posts (Fig. 1).
On another block of wood fasten two wires, as shown in Fig. 2, so that their ends can be placed in the holes in the first block. Then connect up with the
motor and battery as in Fig. 3. When the block is placed on with the big arrow A pointing in the direction indicated in Fig. 3, the current flows with the small arrows. To reverse turn through an angle of 90 degrees (Fig. 4). — Contributed by F. Crawford Curry, Brockville, Ontario, Canada.
** Alarm Clock to Pull up Furnace Draft [107]
A stout cord, A, is attached to the draft B of the furnace, run through a pulley, C, in the ceiling and has a window weight, D, attached at the other end. A small stick is put through a loop in the cord at about the level of the table top on which the alarm clock F stands. The other end of stick E is placed under the key G of the alarm clock. When the alarm rings in the early morning, the key turns, the stick
falls away, releasing the weight, which pulls the draft open. —Contributed by Edward Whitney, 18 Gorham St., Madison, Wis.
** How to Transmit Phonograph Music to a Distance [107]
An interesting experiment, and one calculated to mystify anyone not in the secret, is to transmit the music or speech from a phonograph to another part of the house or even a greater distance. For an outdoor summer party the music can be made to come from a bush, or tree, or from a bed of flowers. The apparatus is not difficult to construct.
The cut shows the arrangement. Procure a long-distance telephone transmitter, D, including the mouthpiece, and fasten it to the reproducer of the phonograph. Also a watch case
receiver, R, which fasten to the horn. These parts may be purchased from any electrical-supply house. Connect two wires to the transmitter, running one direct to the receiver, and the other to the battery, thence to a switch, S, and then to the receiver. The more batteries used the louder will be the sound produced by the horn, but avoid using too much battery or the receiver is apt to heat. —Contributed by Wm. J. Farley, Jr., Camden, N. J.
** How to Make a Telescope [108]
With a telescope like the one here described, made with his own hands, a farmer boy not many years ago discovered a comet which had escaped the watchful eyes of many astronomers.
First, get two pieces of plate glass, 6 in. square and 1 in. thick, and break the corners off to make them round, grinding the rough edges on a grindstone. Use a barrel to work on, and
fasten one glass on the top of it in the center by driving three small nails at the sides to hold it in place. Fasten, with pitch, a round 4-in. block of wood in the center on one side of the other glass to serve as a handle.
Use wet grain emery for coarse grinding. Take a pinch and spread it evenly on the glass which is on the barrel, then take the glass with the handle and move it back and forth across the lower glass, while walking around the barrel; also rotate the glass, which is necessary to make it grind evenly. The upper glass or speculum always becomes concave, and the under glass or tool convex.
Work with straight strokes 5 or 6 in. in length; after working 5 hours hold the speculum in the sunshine and throw the rays of the sun onto a paper; where the rays come to a point gives the focal length. If the glass is not ground enough to bring the rays to a point within 5 ft., the coarse grinding must be continued, unless a longer focal length is wanted.
Have ready six large dishes, then take 2 lb. flour emery and mix in 12 qt. of water; immediately turn the water into a clean dish and let settle 30 seconds; then turn it into another dish and let settle 2 minutes, then 8 minutes, 30 minutes and 90 minutes, being careful not to turn off the coarser emery which has settled. When dry, turn the emery from the 5 jars into 5 separate bottles, and label. Then take a little of the coarsest powder, wetting it to the consistency of cream, and spread on the glass, work as before (using short straight strokes 1-1/2 or 2 in.) until the holes in the glass left by the grain emery are ground out; next use the finer grades until the pits left by each coarser grade are ground out. When the two last grades are used shorten the strokes to less than 2 in. When done the glass should be semi-transparent, and is ready for polishing.
When polishing the speculum, paste a strip of paper 1-1/3 in. wide around the convex glass or tool, melt 1 lb. of pitch and turn on to it and press with the wet speculum. Mold the pitch while hot into squares of 1 in., with 1/4-in. spaces, as in Fig. 1. Then warm and press again with the speculum, being careful to have all the squares touch the speculum, or it will not polish evenly. Trim the paper from the edge with a sharp knife, and paint the squares separately with jeweler's rouge, wet till soft like paint. Use a binger to spread it on with. Work the speculum over the tool the same as when grinding, using straight strokes 2 in. or less.
When the glass is polished enough to reflect some light, it should be tested with the knife-edge test. In a dark room, set the speculum against the wall, and a large lamp, L, Fig. 2, twice the focal length away. Place a large sheet of pasteboard, A, Fig. 2, with a small needle hole opposite the blaze, by the side of the lamp, so the light
from the blaze will shine onto the glass. Place the speculum S, Fig. 2, so the rays from the needle hole will be thrown to the left side of the lamp (facing the speculum), with the knife mounted in a block of wood and edgeways to the lamp, as in K, Fig. 2. The knife should not be more than 6 in. from the lamp. Now move the knife across the rays from left to right, and look at the speculum with the eye on the right side of the blade. When the focus is found, if the speculum is ground and polished evenly it will darken evenly over the surface as the knife shuts off the light from the needle hole. If not, the speculum will show some dark rings, or hills. If the glass seems to have a deep hollow in the center, shorter strokes should be used in polishing; if a hill in the center, longer strokes. The polishing and testing done, the speculum is ready to be silvered. Two glass or earthenware dishes, large enough to hold the speculum and 2 in. deep, must be procured. With pitch, cement a strip of board 8 in. long to the back of the speculum, and lay the speculum face down in one of the dishes; fill the dish with distilled water, and clean the face of the speculum with nitric acid, until the water will stick to it in an unbroken film.
The recipe for silvering the speculum is:
Solution A: Distilled water.............................4 oz. Silver nitrate............................100 gr.
Solution B: Distilled water.............................4 oz. Caustic stick potash (pure by alcohol)....100 gr.
Solution C: Aqua Ammonia.
Solution D: Sugar loaf................................840 gr. Nitric acid................................39 gr. Alcohol (Pure).............................25 gr.
Mix solution D and make up to 25 fluid oz. with distilled water, pour into a bottle and carefully put away in a safe place for future use, as it works better when old:
Now take solution A and set aside in a small bottle one-tenth of it, and pour the rest into the empty dish; add the ammonia solution drop by drop; a dark brown precipitate will form and subside; stop adding ammonia solution as soon as the bath clears. Then add solution B, then ammonia until bath is clear. Now add enough of the solution A, that was set aside, to bring the bath to a warm saffron color without destroying its transparency. Then add 1 oz. of solution D and stir until bath grows dark. Place the speculum, face down, in the bath and leave until the silver rises, then raise the speculum and rinse with distilled water. The small flat mirror may be silvered the same way. When dry, the silver film may be polished with a piece of chamois skin, touched with rouge, the polishing being accomplished by means of a light spiral stroke.
Fig. 3 shows the position of the glasses in the tube, also how the rays R from a star are thrown to the eyepiece E in the side of the tube. Make the tube I of sheet iron, cover with paper and cloth, then paint to make a non-conductor of heat or cold. Make the mounting of good seasoned lumber.
Thus an excellent 6-in. telescope can be made at home, with an outlay of only a few dollars. My telescope is 64 in. long and cost me just $15, but I used all my spare time in one winter in making it. I first began studying the heavens through a spyglass, but an instrument such as I desired would cost $200—more than I could afford. Then I made the one described, with which I discovered a new comet not before observed by astronomers.- John E. Mellish.
** How to Make "Freak" Photographs [110]
The "freak" pictures of well-known people which were used by some daily newspapers recently made everybody wonder how the distorted photographs were made. A writer in Camera Craft gives the secret, which proves to be easy of execution. The distortion is accomplished by the use of prisms, as follows: Secure from an optician or leaded-glass establishment, two glass prisms, slightly wider than the lens mount. The flatter they are the less they will distort. About 20. deg. is a satisfactory angle. Secure them as shown by the sectional sketch, using strawboard and black paper. Then make a ring to fit over the lens mount and connect it with the prisms in such a way as to exclude all light from the camera except that which passes through the face of the prisms. The inner surface of this hood must be
dull black. The paper which comes around plates answers nicely. If the ring which slips over the lens mount is lined with black velvet, it will exclude all light and hold firmly to the mount, Place over lens, stop down well after focusing, and proceed as for any picture.
** Another Electric Lock [110]
The details of the construction of an electrically operated lock are shown in the illustration. When the door is closed and the bolt A pushed into position,
it automatically locks. To unlock, push the button D, which act will cause the electromagnet to raise the latch C, when the bolt may be drawn and the door opened. —Contributed by A. D. Zimmerman, Boody, Ill.
** How to Mix Plaster of Paris [110]
For the mixing of plaster of Paris for any purpose, add the plaster gradually to the water, instead of the contrary, says the Master Painter. Do not stir it, just sprinkle it in until you have a creamy mass without lumps. Equal parts of plaster and water is approximately the correct proportion. The addition of a little vinegar or glue water will retard the setting of the plaster, but will not preserve its hardening. Marshmallow powder also retards the setting. In this way the plaster may be handled a long time without getting hard. If you wish the plaster to set extra hard, then add a little sulphate of potash, or powdered alum.
** Enlarging with a Hand Camera [111]
Everyone who owns a hand camera has some pictures he would like enlarged. It is not necessary to have a large camera to do this, as the process is exceedingly simple to make large pictures from small negatives with the same hand camera.
A room from which all light may be excluded and a window through which the light can enter without obstruction from trees or nearby buildings, with a shelf to hold the camera and a table with an upright drawing-board attached, complete the arrangement. The back is taken out of the camera and fitted close against the back of the shelf, which must be provided with a hole the same size and shape as the opening in the back of the camera. The negative used to make the enlarged print is placed in the shelf at A, Fig. 1. The rays of the clear, unobstructed light strike the mirror, B, and reflect through the negative, A, through the lens of the camera and on the board, as shown in Fig. 2. The window must be darkened all around the shelf.
After placing the negative and focusing the lens for a clear image on the board, the shutter is set and a bromide paper is placed on the board. The paper is exposed, developed and fixed by the directions that are enclosed in the package of bromide papers.
** Positioning A Hanging Lamp [111]
Don't pull a lamp hung by flexible cord to one side with a wire and then fasten to a gas pipe. I have seen a wire become red hot in this manner. If the lamp hung by a cord must be pulled over, use a string.
A Curious Compressed Air Phenomenon [111]
Push a pin through an ordinary business card and place the card against one end of a spool with the pin inside the bore, as shown in the sketch. Then blow through the spool, and it will be found that the card will not be blown away, but will remain suspended without any visible support. This phenomenon is explained by the fact that the air radiates from the center at a velocity which is nearly constant, thereby producing a partial vacuum between the spool and the card. Can the reader devise a practical application of this contrivance?
** Simple Switch for Reversing a Current [111]
Take two strips of copper or brass and fasten them together by means of gutta-percha (Fig. 1); also provide them with a handle. Saw out a rectangular block about one and one-half times as long as the brass strips and fasten to it at each end two forked pieces of copper or brass, as in Fig. 2. Fasten on the switch lever, as at A and B, Fig. 2, so that it can rotate about these points. Connect the wires as shown in Fig. 3. To reverse, throw
the lever from one end of the block to the other. —Contributed by R. L. Thomas, San Marcos, Tex.
** Novel Mousetrap [112]
A piece of an old bicycle tire and a glass fruit jar are the only materials required for making this trap. Push one end of the tire into the hole, making sure that there is a space left at the end so that the mice can get in. Then
bend the other end down into a fruit jar or other glass jar. Bait may be placed in the jar if desired, although this is not necessary. —Contributed by Geo. Go McVicker, North Bend, Neb.
** Polishing Nickel [112]
A brilliant polish may be given to tarnished nickel by immersing in alcohol and 2 per cent of sulphuric acid from 5 to 15 seconds. Take out, wash in running water, rinse in alcohol, and rub dry with linen cloth.
** Homemade Arc Light [112]
By rewinding an electric-bell magnet with No. 16 wire and connecting it in series with two electric-light carbons, as shown in the sketch, a small arc will be formed between the carbon points when the current is applied. In the sketch, A is the electric-bell magnet; B, the armature; C C, carbon sockets; D, carbons, and E E, binding posts. When connected with 10 or 12 dry batteries this lamp gives a fairly good light. —Contributed by Morris L. Levy, San Antonio, Tex.
** Lighting an Incandescent Lamp with an Induction Coil [112]
An incandescent lamp of low candlepower may be illuminated by connecting to an induction coil in the manner shown in the sketch. One wire is connected to the metal cap of the lamp and the other wire is fastened to the glass tip. If the apparatus is then placed in the dark and the current turned on, a peculiar phosphorescent glow will fill the whole interior of the lamp. The induction coil used for this purpose should give a spark about 1/2 in. long or more. —Contributed by Joseph B. Bell, Brooklyn.
How to Make a Jump-Spark Coil [113]
The induction coil is probably the most popular piece of apparatus in the electrical laboratory, and particularly is it popular because of its use in experimental wireless telegraphy. Ten years ago wireless telegraphy was a dream of scientists; today it is the plaything of school-boys and thousands of grown-up boys as well.
Divested of nearly all technical phrases, an induction coil may be briefly described as a step-up transformer of small capacity. It comprises a core consisting of a cylindrical bundle of soft-iron wires cut to proper length. By means of two or more layers of No. 14 or No. 16 magnet wire, wound evenly about this core, the bundle becomes magnetized when the wire terminals are connected to a source of electricity.
Should we now slip over this electromagnet a paper tube upon which has been wound with regularity a great and continuous length of No. 36 magnet wire, it will be found that the lines of force emanating from the energized core penetrate the new coil-winding almost as though it were but a part of the surrounding air itself, and when the battery current is broken rapidly a second electrical current is said to be induced into the second coil or secondary.
All or any of the parts of an induction coil may be purchased ready-made, and the first thing to do is to decide which of the parts the amateur mechanic can make and which would be better to buy ready-made. If the builder has had no experience in coilwinding it would probably pay to purchase the secondary coil ready-wound, as the operation of winding a mile or more of fine wire is very difficult and tedious, and the results are often unsatisfactory. In ordering the secondary it is always necessary to specify the length of spark desired.
The following method of completing a 1-in. coil illustrates the general details of the work. The same methods and circuits apply to small and larger coils. The ready-made secondary is in solid cylindrical form, about 6 in. long and 2-5/8 in. diameter, with a hole
through the winding 1-1/4 in. in diameter, as shown in Fig. 1. The secondary will stand considerable handling without fear of injury, and need not be set into a case until the primary is completed. The primary is made of fine annealed No. 24 iron wire cut 7 in. or 8 in. in length, as the maker prefers, and bundled to a diameter of 7/8 in. The wires may be straightened by rolling two or three at a time between two pieces of hard wood. If the amateur has difficulty in procuring this wire, the entire core may be purchased ready-made.
After the core wires are bundled, the core is wrapped with one or two layers of manila paper. The straighter the wire the more iron will enter into the construction of the core, which is desirable. Beginning half an inch from one end, No. 16 cotton-covered magnet wire is wound from one end to the other evenly and then returned, making two layers, and the terminals tied down to the core with twine. Core and primary are then immersed in boiling paraffine wax to which a small quantity of resin and beeswax has been added. This same wax may be used later in sealing the completed coil into a box. Over this primary is now wrapped one layer of okonite tape, or same thickness of heavily shellacked muslin. This completed primary will now allow of slipping into the hole in the secondary.
Should the secondary have been purchased without a case, a wooden box of mahogany or oak is made, large enough to contain the secondary and with an inch to spare all around, with room also for a small condenser; but if it is not convenient to do this work, a box like that shown in Fig. 2 may be purchased at a small cost. A 7/8-in. hole is bored in the center of one end, through which the primary core projects 1/8 in. This core is to be used to attract magnetically the iron head of a vibrating interrupter, which is an important factor of the coil. This interrupter is shaped as in Fig. 4, and is fastened to the box in such a way that the vibrator hammer plays in front of the core and also that soldered connections may be made inside the box with the screws used in affixing the vibrator parts to the box. The condenser is made of four strips of thin paper, 2 yd. long and 5 in. wide, and a sufficient quantity of tinfoil. When cut and laid in one continuous length, each piece of tin-foil must overlap the adjoining piece a half inch, so as to form a continuous electrical circuit. In shaping the condenser, one piece of the paper is laid down, then the strip of tin-foil, then two strips of paper and another layer of foil, and finally the fourth strip of paper. This makes a condenser which may be folded, beginning at one end and bending about 6 in. at a time. The condenser is next wrapped securely with bands of paper or tape, and boiled in pure paraffine wax for one hour, after which it is pressed under considerable weight until firm and hard. One of the sheets of tin-foil is to form one pole of the condenser, and the other sheet, which is insulated from the first, forms the other pole or terminal. (This condenser material is purchasable in long strips, ready for assembling.)
The wiring diagram, Fig. 3, shows how the connections are made. This method of connecting is suitable for all coils up to 1-1/2 in. spark, but for larger coil better results will be obtained by using an independent type of interrupter, in which a separate magnet is used to interrupt the circuit. Besides the magnetic vibrators there are several other types, such as the mercury dash-pot and rotary-commutator types, but these will become better known to the amateur as he proceeds in his work and becomes more experienced in coil operation.
** Combined Door Bell and Electric Alarm [114]
This device consists of a battery and bell connection to an alarm clock which also acts as a door bell, the whole being mounted on a board 18 in. long and 12 in. wide. Referring to the sketch accompanying this article, the letters indicate as follows: A, bell; B, battery ; C, switch; D, V-shaped copper strip; E, copper lever with 1-in. flange turned on one side, whole length, 4 in.; F, spring to throw lever E down in V-shaped piece to make connection; G, lever to hold out E when device is used as a door bell; lines H, go, one from bell, A, and one from battery, B, to the door; I, shelf for clock.
See that the ring in the alarm key of the clock works easily, so that when it is square across the clock it will drop down. Fasten a piece of copper about
1 in. long to key, then wind the alarm just enough so that the key stands straight up and down. Place the clock on the shelf and the key under the flange of lever E. Pull lever G down out of the way and close the lever on the switch. The alarm key will turn and drop down, letting lever E drop into the V-shaped piece D and make connection.
For the door-bell connection close lever on switch C, and put G up so that D and E do not come in contact. If anyone is ill and you do not want the bell to ring, open switch C.
The wiring for this device may all be on the back of the board. The switch and levers are fastened with small screw bolts, which allows wiring at the back. Saw two spools in half and fasten the halves to the four corners of the board at the back, and the apparatus may be put up where one likes.
**v To Build a Small Brass Furnace [115]
Bend a piece of stout sheet iron 23 in. by 12 in. round so that the inside
diameter is 7 in., and then rivet the seam. Fit in a round piece of sheet iron for the bottom. Make a hole about the size of a shilling in the side, 2 in. from the bottom. This is for blowing.
Line the furnace, bottom and sides with fire-clay to a depth of 1/2 in. Use charcoal to burn and an ordinary bellows for blowing, says the Model Engineer, London. The best blast is obtained by holding the nozzle of the bellows about an inch from the hole, instead of close to it.
** Avoid Paper Lamp Shades [115]
Don't wrap paper around a lamp for a shade. You might go away and forget it and a fire might be started from the heat. Use a glass or metal shade. That is what they are for.
** Why Gravity Batteries Fail to Work [115]
Many amateur electricians and some professionals have had considerable trouble with gravity batteries. They
follow directions carefully and then fail to get good results. The usual trouble is not with the battery itself, but with the circuit. A gravity battery is suitable only for a circuit which is normally closed. It is therefore undesirable for electric bells, induction coils and all other open-circuit apparatus. The circuit should also have a high resistance. This makes it impractical for running fan motors, as the motor would have to be wound with fine wire and it would then require a large number of batteries to give a sufficiently high voltage.
To set up a gravity battery: Use about 3-1/2 lb. of blue stone, or enough to cover the copper element 1 in. Pour in water sufficient to cover the zinc 1/2 in. Short-circuit for three hours, and the battery is ready for use. If desired for use immediately, do not short-circuit, but add 5 or 6 oz. of zinc sulphate.
Keep the dividing line between the blue and white liquids about 1/2 in. below the bottom of the zinc. If too low, siphon off some of the white liquid and add the same amount of water, but do not agitate or mix the two solutions. This type of battery will give about 0.9 of a volt, and should be used on a circuit of about 100 milli-amperes.
** A Skidoo-Skidee Trick [116]
In a recent issue or Popular Mechanics an article on "The Turning Card Puzzle" was described and illustrated. Outside of the scientific side involved, herein I describe a much better trick. About the time when the expression "skidoo" first began to be used I Invented the following trick and
called it "Skidoo" and "Skidee," which created much merriment. Unless the trick is thoroughly understood, for some it will turn one way, for others the opposite way, while for others it will not revolve at all. One person whom I now recall became red in the face by shouting skidoo and skidee at it, but the thing would not move at all, and he finally from vexation threw the trick into the fire and a new one had to be made. Very few can make it turn both ways at will, and therein is the trick.
Take a piece of hardwood 3/8 in. square and about 9 in. long. On one of the edges cut a series of notches as indicated in Fig. 1. Then slightly taper the end marked B until it is nicely rounded as shown in Fig. 2. Next make an arm of a two-arm windmill such as boys make. Make a hole through the center or this one arm. Enlarge the hole slightly, enough to allow a common pin to hold the arm to the end B and not interfere with the revolving arm. Two or three of these arms may have to be made before one is secured that is of the exact proportions to catch the vibrations right.
To operate the trick, grip the stick firmly in one hand, and with the forward and backward motion of the other allow the first finger to slide along the top edge, the second finger along the side, and the thumb nail will then vibrate along the notches, thus making the arm revolve in one direction. To make the arm revolve in the opposite direction—keep the hand moving all the time, so the observer will not detect the change which the hand makes —allow the first finger to slide along the top, as in the other movement, the thumb and second finger changing places: e. g., In the first movement you scratch the notches with the thumb nail while the hand is going from the body, and in the second movement you scratch the notches with the nail of the second finger when the hand is coming toward the body, thus producing two different vibrations. In order to make it work perfectly (?) you must or course say "skidoo" when you begin the first movement, and then, no matter how fast the little arm is revolving when changed to the second movement you must say "skidee" and the arm will immediately stop and begin revolving in the opposite direction. By using the magic words the little arm will obey your commands instantly and your audience will be mystified. If any or your audience presume to dispute, or think they can do the same let them try it. You will no doubt be accused of blowing or drawing in your breath, and many other things in order to make the arm operate. At least it is amusing. Try it and see. —Contributed by Charles Clement Bradley Toledo, Ohio.
** Effects of Radium [116]
Radium acts upon the chemical constituents of glass, porcelain and paper, imparting to them a violet tinge; changes white phosphorus to yellow, oxygen to ozone, affects photograph plates and produces many other curious chemical changes.
** Naval Speed Record [116]
On its official trial trip the British torpedo boat destroyer "Mohawk" attained the record speed of a little over 39 miles an hour.
** How to Enlarge from Life in the Camera [117]
Usually the amateur photographer gets to a point in his work where the miscellaneous taking of everything in sight is somewhat unsatisfying: There are many special fields he may enter, and one of them is photomicrography. It is usually understood that this branch of photography means an expensive apparatus. If the worker is not after too high a magnification, however, there is a very simple and effective means of making photomicrographs which requires no additional apparatus that cannot be easily and quickly constructed at home.
Reproduced with this article is a photograph of dandelion seeds — a magnification of nine diameters or eighty-one times. The apparatus which produced this photograph consisted of a camera of fairly long draw, a means for holding it vertical, a short-focus lens, and, if possible, but not essential, a means for focusing that lens in a minute manner. On top of the tripod is the folding arrangement, which is easily constructed at home with two hinged boards, an old tripod screw, an old bed plate from a camera for the screw to fit in, and two sliding brass pieces with sets crews that may be purchased from any hardware store under the name of desk sliding braces. To the front board is attached a box, carrying the lens and the bed of the sliding object carrier, which can be moved forward and back by the rack and pinion, that also can be obtained from hardware stores. If the bed for the object carrier be attached to the bed of the camera instead of to the front board, the object carrier need have no independent movement of its own, focusing being done by the front and
back focus of the camera; but this is less satisfactory, particularly when accurate dimensions are to be determined, says the Photographic Times. This outfit need not be confined to seeds alone, but small flowers, earth, chemicals, insects, and the thousand and one little things of daily life—all make beautiful subjects for enlarged photographs. These cannot be made by taking an ordinary photograph and enlarging through a lantern. When a gelatine dry plate is magnified nine diameters, the grains of silver in the negative will be magnified also and produce a result that will not stand
close examination. Photographs made by photomicrography can be examined like any other photographs and show no more texture than will any print.
** Steel Pen Used in Draftsman's Ink Bottle Cork [117]
A steel pen makes an ideal substitute for a quill in the stopper of the draftsman's ink bottle. The advantage of this substitute is that there is always one handy to replace a broken or lost pen, while it is not so with the quill. —Contributed by George C. Madison, Boston, Mass.
** How to Make a Pilot Balloon [118] By E. Goddard Jorgensen
Unusual interest is being displayed in ballooning, and as it is fast becoming the favorite sport many persons would like to know how to construct a miniature balloon for making experiments. The following table will give the size, as well as the capacity and lifting power of pilot balloons:
Diameter. Cap. in Cu. Ft Lifting Power. 5 ft. 65 4 lb. 6 ft. 113 7 lb. 7 ft. 179 11 lb. 8 ft. 268 17 1b. 9 ft. 381 24 lb. 10 ft. 523 33 lb. 11 ft. 697 44 lb. 12 ft. 905 57 lb.
The material must be cut in suitable shaped gores or segments. In this article we shall confine ourselves to a 10-ft. balloon. If the balloon is 10 ft. in diameter, then the circumference will be approximately 3-1/7 times the diameter, or 31 ft. 5 in. We now take one-half this length to make the length of the gore, which is 15 ft. 7-1/2 in. Get a piece of paper 15 ft. 7-1/2 in. long and 3 ft. wide from which to cut a pattern, Fig. 1. A line, AB, is drawn lengthwise and exactly in the middle of the paper, and a line, CD, is drawn at right angles to AB and in the middle of the paper lengthways. The intersecting point of AB and CD is used for a center to ascribe a circle whose diameter is the same as the width of the paper, or 3 ft. Divide one-quarter of the circle
into 10 equal parts and also divide one-half of the line AB in 10 equal parts. Perpendicular lines are drawn parallel with the line CD intersecting the division points made on the one-half line AB. Horizontal and parallel lines with AB are drawn intersecting the division points made on the one-quarter circle and intersecting the perpendicular line drawn parallel with CD. A line is now drawn from B to E and from E to F, and so on, until all the intersecting lines are touched and the point C is reached. This will form the proper curve to cut the pattern. The paper is now folded on the line AB and then on the line CD, keeping the marked part on the outside. The pattern is now cut, cutting all four quarters at the same time, on the curved line from B to C. When the paper is unfolded you will have a pattern as shown in Fig. 2. This pattern is used to mark the cloth, and after marked is cut the same shape and size.
The cloth segments are sewed together, using a fine needle and No. 70 thread, making a double seam as shown in Fig. 3. When all seams are completed you will have a bag the shape shown in Fig. 4. A small portion of one end or a seam must be left open for inflating. A small tube made from the cloth and sewed into one end will make a better place for inflating and to tie up tightly.
It is now necessary to varnish the bag in order to make it retain the gas. Procure 1 gal. of the very best heavy body, boiled linseed oil and immerse the bag in it. The surplus oil is squeezed out by running the bag through an ordinary clothes wringer several times. The bag is now placed in the sun for a thorough drying. Put the remaining oil in a kettle with 1/8 lb. of beeswax and boil well together. This solution is afterward diluted with turpentine so it will work well. When the bag is dry apply this mixture by rubbing it on the bag with a piece of flannel. Repeat this operation four times,
being sure of a thorough drying in the sun each time. For indoor coating and drying use a small amount of plumbic oxide. This will dry rapidly in the shade and will not make the oil hard.
Fill the bag with air by using a pair of bellows and leave it over night. This test will show if the bag is airtight. If it is not tight then the bag needs another rubbing. The next operation is to fill the bag with gas.
Hydrogen gas is made from iron and sulphuric acid. The amounts necessary for a 10-ft. balloon are 125 lb. of iron borings and 125 lb. of sulphuric acid. 1 lb. of iron, 1 lb. of sulphuric acid and 4 lb. of water will make 4 cu. ft. of gas in one hour. Secure two empty barrels of about 52 gal. capacity and connect them, as shown in Fig. 5, with 3/4-in. pipe. In the barrel, A, place the iron borings and fill one-half full of clear water. Fill the other barrel, B, with water 2 in. above the level of the water in barrel A. This is to give a water pressure head against foaming when the generator is in action. About 15 lb. of lime should be well mixed with the water in the barrel B. All
joints must be sealed with plaster of Paris. Pour in one-half of the acid into the barrel, A, with the iron borings. The barrels are kept tight while the generation is going on with the exception of the outlet, C, to the bag. When the action is stopped in the generator barrel, A, let the solution run out and fill again as before with water and acid on the iron borings. The outlet, C, should be always connected with the bag while the generator is in action. The 3/4-in. pipe extending down into the cooling tank, B, should not enter into the water over 8 in. When filled with gas the balloon is ready for a flight at the will of the operator.
** How to Clean a Clock [119]
It is very simple to clean a clock, which may sound rather absurd. For an amateur it is not always necessary to take the clock to pieces. With a little care and patience and using some benzine, a clean white rag, a sable brush and some oil a clock can be cleaned and put into first-class running order. The benzine should be clean and free from oil. You can test benzine by putting a little on the back of the hand; if it is good it will dry off, leaving the hand quite clean, but if any grease remains on the hand, it is not fit to use.
The oil should be of the very best that can be procured. Vegetable oils should never be used. Clock oil can be procured from your druggist or jeweler.
All loose dirt should be removed from the works by blowing with bellows, or a fan, or dusting with a dry brush; in the latter case great care should be exercised not to injure any of the parts. Dip the brush in the benzine and clean the spindles and spindle holes, and the teeth of the escapement wheel. After washing a part, wipe the brush on the rag and rinse in the benzine; this should be repeated frequently, until no more dirt is seen.
When the clock has dried, oil the spindle holes carefully; this may be done with a toothpick or a sliver of woodcut to a fine point. Oil the tooth of the escapement wheel slightly, using a fine brush.
** How to Make Blueprint Lantern Slides [120]
Lantern slides of a blue tone that is a pleasing variety from the usual black may be made from spoiled or old plates which have not been developed, by fixing, washing well and then dipping five minutes in the following solution:
A. Green Iron ammonium citrate 150 gr. Water 1 oz.
B. Potassium ferrocyanide 50 gr. Water 1 oz.
Prepare the solutions separately and mix equal parts for use, at the time of employment. Dry the plates in the dark, and keep in the dark until used. Printing is done in the sun, and a vigorous negative must be used, says the Moving Picture World. Exposure, 20 to 30 minutes. Wash 10 minutes in running water and dry. Brown or purple tones may be had by sensitizing with the following solution instead of the above:
Distilled water 1 oz. Sliver nitrate 50 gr. Tartaric or citric acid 1/2 oz.
Bathe the plates 5 minutes, keeping the fingers out of the solution, to avoid blackened skin. Dry in the dark. Print to bronzing under a strong negative; fix in hypo, toning first if desired.
** A Substitute for a Ray Filter [120]
Not many amateur photographers possess a ray filter. A good substitute is to use the orange glass from the ruby lamp. This can be held in position in front of the lens with a rubber band. A longer exposure will be necessary, but good cloud effects can be procured in this manner.
** Electric Lamp Experiments [120]
Incandescent electric lamps can be made to glow so that they may be seen in a dark room by rubbing the globe on clothing or with a paper, leather or tinfoil and immediately holding near a 1/2-in. Ruhmkorff coil which is in action but not sparking. The miniature 16 cp., 20 and 22-volt lamps will show quite brilliantly, but the 110-volt globes will not glow. When experimenting with these globes everything should be dry. A cold, dry atmosphere will give best results.
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** How to Make a Simple Wireless Telegraph [121] By ARTHUR E. JOERIN
An efficient wireless-telegraph receiving apparatus for distances up to 1,000 ft. may be constructed in the following manner: Attach a watchcase telephone receiver to a dry cell, or battery, of any make. The negative pole, or zinc, of the cell is connected to a ground wire. This is done by attaching to a gas or water pipe. The positive pole, or carbon, of the cell is connected to the aerial line. This aerial collector can be made in various ways, either by using a screen wire or numerous wires
made in an open coil and hung in the air. File a V-shaped groove in the upper end of the carbon of the cell. Attach a small bent copper wire in the binding post that is attached to the zinc of the cell. In the bend of this wire and the V-shaped groove filed into the carbon, lay a needle. This will complete the receiving station. Use a spark coil in connection with a telegraph key for the sending station, making a ground with one wire, and have the other connected with another aerial line.
By connecting the telephone receiver to the cell and at the same time having a short circuit a receiving station is made. As the telephone offers a high resistance, part of the current will try to take the shorter high resistance through the needle. If the waves strike across the needle, the resistance is less, and thus less current travels through the telephone receiver. If the wave ceases, the resistance between the needle and the carbon is increased, and as less current will flow the short way, it is compelled to take the longer metallic way through the windings of the receiver, which will cause the clickings that can be heard.
** To Preserve Putty [121]
Putty, when left exposed to the air, will soon become dry and useless. I have kept putty in good condition for more than a year by placing it in a glass jar and keeping it entirely covered with water.
** How to Make a Small Storage Battery [121]
The cell of a storage battery consists of two plates, a positive and a negative, made of lead and placed in a dilute solution of sulphuric acid. Large batteries made of large cells have a great number of plates, both positive and negative, of which all positive plates are connected to one terminal and the negative plates to the other terminal. The storage cell, as described below, is the right size to be charged by a few gravity cells and is easily made.
Secure a piece of 1-3/4-in. lead pipe, 5 in. long, and cut both ends smooth and square with the pipe. Solder a circular disk of lead to one end, forming a cup of the pipe. As this cup must hold the sulphuric acid it must be perfectly liquid-tight. It is also necessary to get another lead pipe of the same length but only 3/4-in. in diameter. In this pipe should be bored as many 1/8-in. holes
as possible, except for about 1 in. on each end. One end of this tube is hammered together as shown at A in the sketch to make a pocket to hold the paste. This, of course, does not need to be watertight.
A box of wood is made to hold the larger tube or cup. This box can be square, and the corners left open around the cup can be filled with sawdust. A support is now made from a block of wood to hold the tube, B, in place and to keep it from touching the cup C. This support or block, D, is cut circular with the same diameter as the lead cup C. The lower portion of the block is cut away so it will just fit inside of the cup to form a stopper. The center of this block is now bored to make a hole the same size as the smaller lead pipe. Place the lead pipe in the hole and immerse it in smoking hot paraffine wax, and leave it until the wood has become thoroughly saturated with the hot wax. Use care to keep the wax from running on the lead at any place other than the end within the wood block. Two binding-posts should be attached, one to the positive, or tube B, and the other to the negative, or tube C, by soldering the joint.
A paste for the positive plate is made from 1 part sulphuric acid and 1 part water with a sufficient amount of red lead added to make of thick dry consistency. When mixing the acid and water, be sure to add the acid to the water and not the water to the acid. Also remember that sulphuric acid will destroy anything that it comes in contact with and will make a painful burn if it touches the hands. Stir the mixture with a stick and when a good dry paste is formed, put it into the smaller tube and ram it down until the tube is almost filled. The paste that may have come through the holes is scraped off and the tube set aside to dry. The large tube or cup is filled with a diluted solution of sulphuric acid. This solution should be about one-twelfth acid. The cell is now complete and ready for storing the current.
The cell may be charged with three gravity cells. These are connected in series and the positive terminal binding-post on the storage cell is connected to the wire leading from the copper plate in the gravity cell. The other plate is connected to the zinc. The first charge should be run into the cell for about one week and all subsequent charges should only take from 10 to 12 hours.
** Fitting a Plug in Different Shaped Holes [122]
A certain king offered to give the prince his liberty if he could whittle a plug that would fit four different shaped holes, namely: a square hole, a round one, an oblong one and a triangular one, says the Pathfinder. A broomstick was used to make the plug and it was whittled in the shape shown
in Fig. 1. The holes in the different places as shown in Fig. 2, were fitted by this one plug.
** How to Make a Lightning Arrester [122]
Secure a piece of wood about 3-1/2 in. square that will furnish a nice finish and round the corners and make a small rounding edge as shown in the sketch. From a piece of brass 1/16 in. thick cut two pieces alike, A and B, and match them together, leaving about 1/16 in. between their upper edges and fasten them to the wood with binding-posts. The third piece of brass, C, is fitted
between the pieces A and B allowing a space of 1/16-in. all around the edge. One binding-post and a small screw will hold the piece of brass, C, in place on the wood. The connections are made from the line wires to the two upper binding-posts and parallel from the lower binding-posts to the instrument. The third binding-post on C is connected to the ground wire. Any heavy charge from lightning will jump the saw teeth part of the brass and is grounded without doing harm to the instruments used. —Contributed by Edwin Walker, Chicago, Ill.
** A Home-Made Punt [123]
A flat bottom boat is easy to make and is one of the safest boats, as it is not readily overturned. It has the advantage of being rowed from either end, and has plenty of good seating capacity.
This punt, as shown in Fig. 1, is built 15 ft. long, about 20 in. deep and 4 ft. wide. The ends are cut sloping for about 20 in. back and under. The sides are each made up from boards held together with battens on the inside of the boat near the ends and in the middle. One wide board should be used for the bottom piece. Two pins are driven in the top board of each side to serve as oarlocks.
The bottom is covered with matched boards not over 5 in. wide. These pieces are placed together as closely as possible, using white lead between the joints and nailing them to the edges of the side boards and to a keel strip that runs the length of the punt, as shown in Fig. 2. Before nailing the boards place lamp wicking between them and the edges of the side boards. Only galvanized nails should be used. In order to make the punt perfectly watertight it is best to use the driest lumber obtainable. At one end of the punt a skag and a rudder can be attached as shown in Fig. 3.
** Photographers' Printing Frame Stand [123]
When using developing papers it is always bothersome to build up books or
small boxes to make a place to set the printing frame in front of the light. Details for making a small stand that is adjustable to any desired height are shown in the sketch. In Fig. 1 is shown the construction of the sliding holder. A piece of 1/4-in. gas pipe, A, is cut 1 in. long and fitted with a thumbscrew, B. The piece of pipe is soldered to the middle on the back side of a piece of metal that is about 4 by 4-1/2 in. with its lower edge turned up to form a small shelf as shown at C. The main part of the stand is made by inserting a 5/16-in. rod tightly into a block of hard maple wood that is 1 in. thick and 3-1/2 in. square (Fig 2). The pipe that is soldered to the metal support will slide up and down the rod and the thumbscrew can be set to hold it at the desired point.
** Heat and Expansion [124]
Take an electric light bulb from which the air has not been exhausted and immerse it in water and then break off the point. As there is a vacuum in the bulb it will quickly fill with water. Shake the bulb gently until a part of the water is out and then screw the bulb into a socket with the point always downward. Apply the current and the heated air inside will soon expand and force the water out with great rapidity. Sometimes this experiment can be done several times by using the same bulb. —Contributed by Curtiss Hill, Tacoma, Wash.
** Photographing a Streak of Lightning [124]
The accompanying illustration is a remarkable photograph of a streak of lightning. Many interesting pictures of this kind can be made during a storm at night. The camera is set in a place where it will not get wet and left standing with the shutter open and the plate ready for the exposure. Should a lightning streak appear within the range of the lens it will be made on the plate, which can be developed in the usual manner. It will require some attention to that part of the sky within the range of the lens so as to not make a double exposure by letting a second flash enter the open lens. —Contributed by Charles H. Wagner.
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Borax may be used as a solvent for shellac gum.
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** How to Make a Small Single-Phase Induction Motor [124] By C. H. Bell
The following notes on a small single-phase induction motor, without auxiliary phase, which the writer has made, may be of interest to some of our readers, says the Model Engineer. The problem to be solved was the construction of a motor large enough to drive a sewing machine or very light lathe, to be supplied with 110-volt alternating current from a lighting circuit, and to consume, if possible, no more current than a 16-cp. lamp. In designing, it had to be borne in mind that, with the exception of insulated wire, no special materials could be obtained.
The principle of an induction motor is quite different from that of the commutator motor. The winding of the armature, or "rotor," has no connection with the outside circuit, but the current is induced in it by the action of the alternating current supplied to the winding of the field-magnet, or "stator." Neither commutator nor slip rings are required, and all sparking is avoided. Unfortunately, this little machine is not self-starting, but a slight pull on the belt just as the current is turned on is all that is needed, and the motor rapidly gathers speed provided no load is put on until it is in step with the alternations of the supply. It then runs at constant speed whether given much or little current, but stops if overloaded for more than a few seconds.
The stator has four poles and is built up of pieces of sheet iron used for stove pipes, which runs about 35 sheets to the inch. All the pieces are alike and cut on the lines with the dimensions as shown in Fig. 1, with the dotted line, C, to be filed out after they are placed together. Each layer of four is placed with the pointed ends of the pieces alternately to the right and left so as to break joints as shown in Fig. 2. The laminations were carefully built up on a board into which heavy wires had been driven to keep them in place until all were in position and the whole could be clamped down. In the middle of the pieces 1/4-in. holes, B, were then drilled and 1/4-in. bolts put in and tightened up, large holes being cut through the wood to enable this to be done. The armature tunnel was then carefully filed out and all taken apart again so that the rough edges could be scraped off and the laminations given a thin coat of shellac varnish on one side. After assembling a second time, the bolts were coated with shellac and put into place for good. Holes 5-32 in. in diameter were drilled in the corners, A, and filled with rivets, also varnished before they were put in. When put together they should make a piece 2 in. thick.
This peculiar construction was adopted because proper stampings were not available, and as every bit of sheet iron had to be cut with a small pair of tinners' snips, it was important to have a very simple outline for the pieces. They are not particularly accurate as it is, and when some of them got out of their proper order while being varnished, an awkward job occurred in the magnet which was never entirely corrected. No doubt some energy is lost through the large number of joints, all representing breaks in the magnetic circuit, but as the laminations are tightly held together and the circuit is about as compact as it could possibly be, probably the loss is not as great as it would appear at first sight.
The rotor is made of laminations cut from sheet iron, as shown in Fig. 3, which were varnished lightly on one side and clamped on the shaft between two nuts in the usual way. A very slight cut was taken in the lathe afterwards to true the circumference. The shaft was turned from 1/2-in. wrought iron, no steel being obtainable, and is shown with dimensions in Fig. 4. The bearings were cast of babbitt metal, as shown in Fig. 5, in a wooden mold and bored to size with a twist drill in the lathe. They are fitted with ordinary wick lubricators. Figures 6 and 7 are sections showing the general arrangement of the machine.
The stator is wound full with No. 22 double cotton-covered copper wire,
about 2-1/2 lb. being used, and the connections are such as to produce alternate poles—that is, the end of the first coil is joined to the end of the second the beginning of the second to the beginning of the third, and the end of the third to the end of the fourth, while the beginnings of the first and fourth coils connect to the supply.
The rotor is wound with No. 24 double cotton-covered copper wire, each limb being filled with about 200 turns, and all wound in the same direction. The four commencing ends are connected together on one side of the rotor and the four finishing ends are soldered together on the other. All winding spaces are carefully covered with two layers of cambric soaked in shellac, and as each layer of wire was wound, it was well saturated with varnish before the next was put on.
This type of motor has drawbacks, as before stated, but if regular stampings are used for the laminations, it would be very simple to build, having no commutator or brushes, and would not easily get out of order. No starting resistance is needed, and as the motor runs at constant speed, depending upon the number of alternations of the supply, a regulating resistance is not needed.
** Carbolic Acid Burns [126]
The pain of carbolic acid burns can be relieved promptly by washing with alcohol, if applied immediately. If too late for alcohol to be of use, brush with water containing saturated solution of picric acid.
** How to Make a Paper Book Cover [126]
Book covers become soiled in handling and especially school books. Various methods are applied for making a temporary cover that will protect the book cover. A paper cover can be quickly made by using a piece of paper larger than both covers on the book when they are open. Fold the paper on the long dotted line, as shown in Fig. 1. When the folds are made the paper should then be just as wide as the book cover is high. The ends are then folded on the short dotted lines, which will make it appear as shown in Fig. 2. The paper thus folded is placed on the book cover as shown in Fig. 3. —Contributed by C. E. McKinney, Jr., Newark, N. J.
** How to Make Lantern Slides [127]
The popularity of lantern slides, and especially of colored ones, as a means of illustrating songs, has caused so large a demand for this class of work that almost any amateur may take up slide making at a good profit. The lantern slide is a glass plate, coated with slow and extremely fine-grained emulsion. The size is 3-1/4 by 4 in. A lantern slide is merely a print on a glass plate instead of on paper. Lantern slides can be made in two different ways. One is by contact, exactly the same as a print is made on paper, and the other by reduction in the camera. In making slides by contact, select the negative and place it in the printing frame and put the lantern plate upon it, film to film. Clamp down the back and expose just as in making a print. A good method of exposing is to hold a lighted match about 3 in. from the frame for three or more seconds according to the density.
Development is carried on in the same manner as with a negative. The image should appear in. about a minute, and development should be over in three or four minutes. If the exposure has been correct, the high lights will stay white throughout the development and will come out as clear glass after fixing. It is best to use the developers recommended by the manufacturer of the plates used, the formulas being found in each package of plates. It is best, also, to use a plain fixing bath, which must be fresh and kept as cool as possible in hot weather.
The lantern-slide film that is new on the market can be handled in the same manner as the glass-plate slide, except that the binding is different. The results are the same and the slides are not so bulky to handle. Being unbreakable, they are much used by travelers. The manner of binding them for use in a lantern is described on the circular enclosed with the film.
When the negative is larger than the lantern-slide plate, and it is desirable to reduce the entire view upon the slide, a little extra work will be necessary. Select a room with one window, if possible, and fit a light-proof frame into it to keep out all light with the exception of a hole in which to place the negative, as shown in Fig. 1. Unless this hole is on a line with the sky it will be necessary to place a sheet of white cardboard at an angle of 45 deg. on the outside of the frame to reflect the light through the negative as shown in Fig. 2. Make or secure an inside kit to place in the plate holder of your camera to hold the lantern slide plate as shown in Fig. 3. Draw lines with a pencil, outlining on the ground glass of the camera the size of the lantern slide plate, and in the place where the plate will be in the plate holder when placed in position in the camera. This will enable you to focus to the proper size. Place the camera in front of the hole in the frame, place the negative in the hole and focus the camera for the lantern slide size. Expose with a medium stop for about 20 seconds and treat the plate the same as with the contact exposure.
When dry the lantern slide plate may be tinted any color by means of liquid colors. These can be purchased from any photo material store. In coloring the slide plate it is only necessary to moisten the gelatine film from time to time with a piece of cloth dampened in water. The colors may then be spread evenly with a soft brush, which should be kept in motion to prevent spots.
The slide is put together by placing a mat made of black paper, as shown in Fig. 4, on the gelatine side of the lantern slide, A, Fig. 5, and then a plain glass, B, over the mat, C, and the three bound together with passepartout tape, D. Contrasty negatives make the best slides, but the lantern slide plate should be made without any attempt to gain density.
** HOW TO MAKE A PORCH SWING CHAIR [128]
The material needed for making this porch swing chair are two pieces of round wood 2-1/2 in. in diameter and 20 in. long, and two pieces 1-1/4 in. in diameter and 40 in. long. These longer pieces can be made square, but for appearance it is best to have them round or square with the corners rounded. A piece of canvas, or other stout cloth, 16 in. wide and 50 in. long, is to be used for the seat. The two short pieces of wood are used for the ends of the chair and two 1-in. holes are bored in each end of them 1-1/2 in. from the ends, and between the holes and the ends grooves are cut around them to make a place to fasten ropes, as shown at B, Fig. 1. The two longer pieces are used for the sides and a tenon is cut on each end of them to fit in the 1-in. holes bored in the end pieces, as shown at A, Fig. 1. The canvas is now tacked on the end pieces and the pieces given one turn before placing the mortising together.
The chair is now hung up to the porch ceiling with ropes attached to a large screw eye or hook. The end of the chair to be used for the lower part is held about 16 in. from the floor with ropes direct from the grooves in the end pieces to the hook. The upper end is supported by using a rope in the form of a loop or bail, as shown in Fig. 2. The middle of the loop or bail should be about 15 in. from the end piece of the chair. Another rope is attached to the loop and through the hook and to a slide as shown. This will allow for adjustment to make the device into a chair or a hammock. —Contributed by Earl R. Hastings, Corinth, Vt.
** How to Find the Blind Spot in the Eye [129]
Make a small black circular dot 1/2 in. in diameter on a piece of cardboard and about 3 in. from the center of this dot draw a star. Hold the cardboard so that the star will be directly in front of one eye, while the dot will be in front of the other. If the star is in front of the left eye, close the right eye and look steadily at the star while you move the cardboard until the point is reached where the dot disappears. This will prove the presence of a blind spot in a person's eye. The other eye can be given the same experiment by turning the cardboard end for end. The blind spot does not indicate diseased eyes, but it simply marks the point where the optic nerve enters the eyeball, which point is not provided with the necessary visual end organs of the sight, known as rods and cones.
** Beeswax Substitute [129]
A wax from the rafie palm of Madagascar is being used as a substitute for beeswax.
** Home-Made Water Wheel Does Family Washing [129]
The accompanying sketch illustrates a very ingenious device which does the family washing, as well as to operate other household machines. A disk 1 in. in thickness and 10 in. in diameter was cut from a piece of rough board, and on its circumference were nailed a number of cup-shaped pieces cut from old tin cans. A hole was then bored through the center of the disk and an old piece of iron rod was driven through to form a shaft. Two holes were then bored opposite each other through the sides of a wooden box in which the disk was placed, allowing the shaft to project through the holes. A small grooved wooden pulley was driven tightly on one of the projecting ends of the shaft. The top of the box was then tightly closed and a hole, large enough to admit the nozzle of a garden hose, was bored so that the jet of water would flow upon the tin buckets that were nailed to the circumference of the wheel or disk. Another hole was bored in the bottom of the box large enough to allow the waste water to run away freely. A belt, made from an ordinary sash cord, was run from the small pulley on the waterwheel to a large pulley, as shown in Fig. 1. A pitman was attached to the large pulley, which operates the washing machine by its reciprocating motion, and the length of the stroke is adjusted by moving the position of the hinge joint on the arm of the washing machine, as shown in Fig. 2. The pressure at the nozzle is about 20 lb. per square inch, and is sufficient to drive the waterwheel under all ordinary circumstances. —Contributed by P. J. O'Gara, Auburn, Cal,
** An Optical Illusion [130]
When looking at the accompanying sketch you will say that the letters are alternately inclined to the right and left. They are not so and can be proved by measuring the distance of the top and bottom of any vertical strokes from the edge of the entire block. They will be found to be exactly the same distance. Or take any of the horizontal strokes of the four letters and see how far their extremities are from the top and bottom of the entire block. It will be found that a line joining the extremities of the strokes are strictly parallel to the top or bottom and that they are not on a slant at all. It is the slant of the numerous short lines that go to make up the letter as a whole that deceives the eye.
** Home-Made Micrometer [130]
It often becomes necessary to find the thickness of material so thin, or inconvenient to measure, that a rule or other measuring device will not serve the purpose. A simple, fairly accurate, and easily made apparatus of the micrometer form may be constructed as shown by the accompanying sketch. Secure a common iron or brass bolt about 1/4-in. in diameter and about 2-1/2 in. long, with as fine a thread as possible, and the thread cut to within a short distance of the head of the bolt. The head of the bolts should have a slot cut for the use of a screwdriver. Clamp together two blocks of wood with square corners which are about 1 in. wide, 3/4 in. thick and 2-1/2 in. long and fasten them together with small pieces nailed across the ends. The width of the blocks will then be about 2 in. Bore a 1/4-in. hole through the center of the blocks in the 2 in. direction. Remove the clamp and set the nut into one of the blocks, so that the hole will be continuous with the hole in the wood. Cut out a piece from the block combination, leaving it shaped like a bench, and glue the bottoms of the legs to a piece of thin board about 2-1/2 in. square for a support.
Solder one end of a stiff wire that is about 2 in. long to the head of the bolt at right angles to the shaft, and fix a disc of heavy pasteboard with a radius equal to the length of the wire, and with its circumference graduated into equal spaces, to serve in measuring revolutions of the end of the wire, to the top of the bench. Put the bolt in the hole, screwing it through the nut,
and the construction is complete. The base is improved for the measuring work by fastening a small piece of wood on the board between the legs of the bench. A small piece of metal is glued on this piece of wood at the point where the bolt meets it.
Find the number of threads of the screw to the inch by placing the bolt on a measuring rule, and counting the threads in an inch of its length. The bolt in making one revolution will descend a distance equal to the distance between the threads.
The device is used by placing the object whose thickness is to be measured on the base under the bolt, and screwing the bolt down until its end just touches the object, then removing the object, and screwing the bolt down until its end just touches the base, carefully noting while doing so the distance that the end of the wire moves over the scale. The part of a rotation of the bolt, or the number of rotations with any additional parts of a rotation added, divided by the number of threads to the inch, will be the thickness of the object. Quite accurate measurements may be made with this instrument, says the Scientific American, and in the absence of the expensive micrometer, it serves a very useful purpose.
** Another Electric Lamp Experiment [131]
Break a portion of the end off from a 16-cp. globe that has been thrown away as useless. Shake the globe until all the filament is broken away, leaving only the ends of the platinum wire exposed. Screw the globe into a socket that sets upright and fill it with salt water. Make one connection to the socket from the positive wire of a 110 volt circuit and the other to a ground. When the current is turned on small stars will be seen in the globe, which show up fine at night. —Contributed by Lindsay McMillan, Santa Maria, Oal.
** Removing Ink Stains [131]
Two or three applications of milk which are wiped up with a dry cloth will remove india ink spots on carpets.
** Feat of Balancing on Chairs [131]
Among the numerous physical exercises is the feat of balancing on the two rear legs of a chair while one foot rests on the front part of the seat and the other on the back of the chair. This may appear to be a hard thing to do, yet with a little practice it may be accomplished. This exercise is one of many practiced by the boys of a boys' home for an annual display given by them. A dozen of the boys will mount chairs at the same time and keep them in balance at the word of a commanding officer.
** How to Make a Merry-Go-Round Swing [131]
A 6 by 6-in. piece of wood 12 ft. long is used for the center pole. Bore a 3/4-in. hole in each end to a depth of 6 in. Place a 3/4-in. bolt in each hole, the bolt being long enough to protrude 2 in. beyond the end of the wood. Short pieces of wood are nailed on the center pole about 2 ft. from the end that is to be used for the bottom. This should form a hub on which to place the inner ends of the extending spokes that hold the platform. The spokes are made from twelve pieces of 2 by 4-in. material 12 ft. long.
Usually a wheel can be found in a scrap pile suitable to place on the pin that is in the top end of the center pole. The wheel should be open
or have spokes. This wheel is used to attach wires for guying. The bottom pin in the center pole is placed in a hole that is bored into a block of wood about 12-in. square and 3 or 4 in. thick. A piece of sheet metal should be drilled and placed on the pin between the block and end of the pole to make a smooth bearing. The center pole is now placed in position and guyed with six wires that are about 35 ft. long. Stakes are driven into the ground and the wires fastened to them and to the wheel at the top end of the pole. Care should be taken when attaching the wires to get the center pole to stand perpendicular. Twelve hooks should be placed at equal distances around the center pole about 1 ft. from the top end. Wires are fastened to these hooks and to the twelve 2 by 4-in. pieces used for the spokes. The wires should be tied around each spoke about 2 ft. from the ends. Space the spokes with equal divisions and cover the outer 2 ft. of the ends with boards, as shown in the plan sketch on the right hand end of the drawing. The boards may be nailed or bolted. If bolted and the wires made in a loop at the hooks, the swing can easily be taken apart and changed from one place to another. —Contributed by A. O. Graham, Fort Worth, Tex.
** Home-Made Arc Lamp [132]
The frame of the lamp is made from bar metal 3/4 in. wide and 1/8 in. thick, bent and welded to make a continuous loop in the shape as shown at G in the sketch. This frame should be about 10-1/2 in. long with the upper or wider part 4 in. long, and the lower part 6-1/2 in. long. The width should be about 5-1/4 in. at
the top and 4 in. at the bottom. A cross bar, L, made of the same material, is fitted into the off-set in the frame and riveted. Holes are drilled through the frame and brass bushings, H and J, are fitted for bearings to receive the adjusting brass rod, B, which should be 1/4 in. in diameter. A brass curtain rod can be used for the rod B, and on its lower end a socket, P, is soldered.
A piece of brass 2 in. long, 1/2 in. wide and 1/8 in. thick is used for the armature, A, to be operated by the magnet coil, C. The coil, C, is made in the usual manner by wrapping No. 14 cotton-covered magnet wire on a wooden spool that has a soft iron core. The spool is about 2-1/2 in. long. The armature, A, is drilled, making a hole just a little larger than the rod, B, and is adjusted in place by two set screws, D and E. A soft piece of iron, F, is fastened to the opposite end of the armature with a screw, which should be placed directly under the end of the coil's core. This end of the armature may be kept from swinging around by placing it between a U-shaped piece of brass fastened to the cross piece L. At the bottom end of the frame, and directly centering the holes H and J, a hole is drilled to receive a hard rubber bushing, R, for insulating the brass ferrule, S, that holds the lower carbon.
One connection is made from the main to the upper binding-post, which is in turn connected to one terminal of the coil, C, the other coil terminal being attached to the frame. The other main connection is made to the lower binding-post, which is also connected to the brass ferrule, S, by soldering. The two binding-posts are insulated from the frame the same as the ferrule S. When using on a 110-volt circuit there must be some resistance in connection, which may be had by using German silver wire, or a water rheostat heretofore described. —Contributed by Arthur D. Bradlev. Randolph, Mass.
** Irrigation [132]
The Mexican government has appropriated $25,000,000 for irrigation work.
** How to Hang Your Hat on a Lead Pencil [133]
Take a smooth hexagon lead pencil, one without either rubber or metal end, and place it against a door or window casing; then with a firm, heavy pressure slide the pencil some 3 or 4 in. and it will stay as if glued to the casing. You may now hang your hat on the end of the pencil.
When you slide the pencil along the casing, do it without any apparent effort, and it will appear to your audience as though you had hypnotized it. This is a very neat trick if performed right. Figure 1 shows the pencil on the casing and Fig. 2 the hat hanging on it.
** Tying a Knot for Footballs [133]
One of the most prominent English football clubs kept the tying of this knot on the rubber hose of their football a secret and never allowed all of its members to know how it was tied. This tie can be used on grain sacks, and in numerous other like instances. Make one loop in the cord and then another exactly the same way, as
shown in Fig. 1, placing the end of the cord under the first loop, then pulling at each end of the cord as in Fig. 2.—A.E.J.
** Stove polish [133]
Stove polish consists of 2 parts graphite, 4 parts copperas and 2 parts bone black, mixed with water to form a paste.
** How to Give an Electric Shock While Shaking Hands [133]
There is nothing quite so startling as to receive an electric shock unexpectedly and such a shock may be given to a friend while shaking hands upon meeting. The shock produced is not harmful and the apparatus can be carried in the pocket. It consists of a small induction coil that can be constructed at home.
The core of the coil, A, Fig. 1, is constructed in the usual manner, of small soft-iron wire to make a bundle about 3/16 in. in diameter and 2 in. long. The coil ends are made from cardboard, about 1 in. in diameter, with a 3/16-in. hole in the center. The hole
should be cut as shown in Fig. 2, so as to have four small pieces that can be bent out, leaving the projections as shown. After wrapping three or four turns of paper around the bundle of wires the cardboard ends are put on with the projections inside, so the coils of wire will hold them in place. About 70 turns of No. 24 gauge double covered magnet wire is first placed on the core, for the primary, and then 1,500 turns of No. 32 or 34 gauge double-covered wire is wrapped on top of the primary, for the secondary. Sufficient length of wire must be left outside at each end of both windings to make connections. The vibrator B, Fig. 1, and the support C are made from thin spring steel, about 1/8 in. wide, bent as shown and securely fastened to the cardboard end of the coil. The armature is made from a soft piece of iron, about 3/16 in. in diameter and 1/16 in. thick, which is soldered to the end of the vibrator directly opposite the end of the core. A small screw is fitted in the end of the support, C, for adjustment, which should be tipped with platinum and also a small piece of platinum placed where the screw will touch the vibrator, B.
One of the primary wires is connected to the screw support. The vibrator, is connected to a flash lamp battery, D. The other primary wire is connected to a switch, S, which in turn is connected to the other terminal of the battery. The switch, S, may be made from a 3/8-in. cork with the wires put through about 3/16 in. apart and allow them to project about 1/2 in. The plate E is cut about 1/2 in. square from a piece of copper and is fastened to the heel of one shoe and connected with a wire from the secondary coil which must be concealed inside of the trouser leg. The other secondary wire is connected through the coat sleeve to a finger ring, F. The vibrator screw must be properly adjusted. When the vibrator is not working the armature should be about 1/16 in. from the core and directly opposite.
The coil when complete will be about 2-1/2 in. long and 1 in. in diameter. The coil can be placed in an old box that has been used for talcum powder or shaving stick. The space around the coil in the box can be filled with paper to keep it tight.
The coil and battery are carried in the pockets and the cork button put in the outside coat pocket, where it can be pressed without attracting attention.
** Experiment with Heat [134]
Place a small piece of paper, lighted, in an ordinary water glass. While the paper is burning turn the glass over and set into a saucer previously filled with water. The water will rapidly rise in the glass, as shown in the sketch.
** How to Attach a Combination Trunk Lock [134]
A small combination lock for chests can be purchased for a small sum of money and attached to a trunk cover after first removing the old lock as shown in Fig. 1. It is necessary to add 1/2-in. to the thickness of the trunk lid or cover. This may be done by placing a brass plate 1/8-in. thick on the outside and a board 3/8-in. thick on the inside. The lock, brass plate, board and trunk cover are all securely riveted together. The support for the dial is soldered to the brass plate.
The hasp, if that be the name for the double toothed arrangement that catches into the lock, was to be secured by only three brass screws, which seemed to be insufficient, says a correspondent of the Metal Worker; therefore a piece of heavy tin was formed over the front of the trunk, which is only 3/8-in. board, the hasp tinned and soldered to the back of the now U-shaped tin, and the tin placed over the board and all fastened in position. The tin is 4 in. wide, 16 in. long and when placed over the board, it laps down about 8 in. between the boards, and the same distance inside of the new board, as shown by the heavy line in the cross section, Fig. 1. Wrought nails are used which pass twice through the tin and both boards, and then well clinched. The three screws were then put in the hasp.
The knob on the dial extends out too far, which may be filed off and two holes substituted, as shown, with which to operate the dial. An old key is filed down in the shape shown in Fig. 2 to fit the two holes.
As the dial is convex it will need protection to prevent injury by rough handling. A leather shield may be used for this purpose, which is cut with two holes, one for the key and the other to permit the operator to observe the numbers on the dial. The shield answers a further purpose of preventing any bystander from noting the numbers on the dial.
** AN ELECTRIC ILLUSION BOX [135]
The accompanying engravings show a most interesting form of electrically operated illusion consisting of a box divided diagonally and each division alternately lighted with an electric lamp. By means of an automatic thermostat arranged in the lamp circuit causing the lamps to light successively, an aquarium apparently without fish one moment is in the next instant swarming with live gold fish; an empty vase viewed through the opening in the box suddenly is filled with flowers, or an empty cigar box is seen and immediately is filled with cigars.
These electric magic boxes as shown are made of metal and oxidized copper finished, but for ordinary use they can be made of wood in the same shape and size. The upper magic boxes as are shown in the engraving are about 12 in. square and 8-1/2 in. high for parlor use and the lower boxes are 18 in. square and 10-1/2 in. high for use in window displays. There is a partition arranged diagonally in the box as shown in the plan view, which completely divides the box into two parts. One-half the partition is fitted with a plain, clear glass as shown. The partition and interior of the box are rendered non-reflecting by painting with a dull, not shiny, black color. When making of wood, a door must be provided on the side or rear to make changes of exhibits. If the box is made large enough, or in the larger size mentioned, openings may be made in the bottom for this purpose, and also used in case of performing the magic trick of allowing two persons to place their
heads in the box and change from one to the other.
The electric globes are inserted as shown at LL through the top of the box, one in each division. When the rear part is illuminated, any article arranged within that part will be visible to the spectator looking into the box through the front opening, but when the front part is illuminated, and the back left dark, any article placed therein will be reflected in. the glass, which takes the same position to the observer as the one in the rear. Thus a plain aquarium is set in the rear part and one with swimming fish placed in
the front, and with the proper illumination one is changed, as it appears, into the other. When using as a window display, place the goods in one part and the price in the other. Many other changes can be made at the will of the operator.
Electric lamps may be controlled by various means to produce different effects. Lamps may be connected in parallel and each turned on or off by means of a hand-operated switch or the button on the lamp socket, or if desired a hand-operated adjustable resistance may be included in the circuit of each lamp for gradually causing the object to fade away or reappear slowly.
Instead of changing the current operated by hand, this may be done automatically by connecting the lamps in parallel on the lighting circuit and each connected in series with a thermostatic switch plug provided with a heating coil which operates to automatically open and close the circuit through the respective lamp.
When there is no electric current available, matches or candles may be used and inserted through the holes H, as shown in the sketch, alternately.
** Replace Dry Putty [136]
Painting over putty that has not become dry will cause scaling or cracking around the edges of the putty.
** Photo Print Washing Tank [136]
The accompanying sketch shows a simple form of a print washing tank that tips from side to side by the weight of the water. For prints 4 by 5 and 5 by 7-in. a tank 2 ft. long and 1 ft. wide will be about the right size. This tank is then divided with a partition placed exactly in the center. This partition should extend 3 or 4 in. above the top of the tank. The partition may also extend below the tank about 1-1/2 in., or a piece of this width put on the bottom, as shown at A in the sketch.
A row of holes about 1/2 in. in diameter is bored through each end of the tank, as shown at B. These holes will allow the water to spill out while the opposite side is filling. The tank may be made from 1/2-in. material and when completed as shown, lined with oil cloth to make it watertight. The tank is placed with the partition directly under a water tap and the flow of water will cause it to tip from time to time, keeping the prints constantly moving about in the water.
** Home-Made Soldering Clamps [137]
Take a cotter pin and bend it over a small rod to bring the points together, as shown in the sketch. This will make a spring clamp that is opened to slip over the articles to be clamped together by inserting a scratch awl or scriber between the legs at the bowed portion. To make a more positive clamp before bending the legs to a bow, slip a short coil of wire over the pin, passing it down to the ring end. Wire 1/32 in. in diameter wound over a wire slightly larger in diameter than that of the cotter will do. In soldering, smoke the legs well to avoid solder adhering to them. The clamp is tightened by pushing up the coil ring toward the bow of the legs and then twisting it like a nut, the coil being wound right-handed, so that it will have a screw effect.
** A Telephone Experiment [137]
If the small apparatus, as shown in the accompanying sketch, is attached to the under side of an ordinary dining table, it will, if connected to a telephone circuit, set the table in vibration, so that any number of people who put their ears flat upon the table will hear the voice of a person speaking from a distance, apparently coming out of the table, says the Model Engineer. A small piece of wood, A, Fig. 1, is cut about 5 in. square, to the center of which is attached a small piece of soft iron wire, such as used for cores
of induction coils, about 4 in. long and bent in the form of a hook at the lower end, as shown at B. This wire is attached to the block of wood, A, as shown in Fig. 2. The end of the wire is soldered to a small brass plate which is set in the block so it will be level or flush with the top of the block and then fastened with two screws. The block A is fastened to the under side of the table with two screws. A small coil, C, is made by winding No. 24 silk or cotton covered wire around a small tube, either a piece of glass, a short straw or a quill. The coil is made tapering as shown without using wood ends. This coil is slipped over the wire B previous to soldering it to the small brass plate. The ends of the coil are connected to two binding-posts which are fastened to the block A. A small lead weight weighing 2 or 3 oz. is hung on the hook made in the lower end of the wire B. |
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