** An Optical Top [69]

One of the latest optical delusions, and one not easy to explain, is Benham's color top. Cut out the black and white disk shown in the figure, and paste on a piece of stiff cardboard. Trim the edges of the cardboard to match the shape of the disk, and make a pinhole in the center. Cut the pin in half and push it through from the under side until the head of the pin touches the cardboard. Spin slowly in a strong light and some of the lines will appear colored. The colors appear different to different people, and are changed by reversing the rotation.



** Card Trick with a Tapered Deck [70]

Another simple trick to perform but one not easily detected, is executed by using a tapered deck of cards as shown in Fig. 1. A cheap deck of cards is evened up square, fastened in a vise and planed along the edge in such a manner that all the pack will be tapered about 1/16 in. This taper is exaggerated in the illustration which shows



one card that has been turned end for end.

It is evident that any card reversed in this way can be easily separated from the other cards in the pack, which makes it possible to perform the following trick: The performer spreads the cards out, fan-like, and asks an observer to withdraw a card, which is then replaced in any part of the pack. After thoroughly shuffling the cards the performer then holds the deck in both hands behind his back and pronouncing a few magic words, produces the card selected in one hand and the rest of the pack in the other. This is accomplished by simply turning the deck end for end while the observer is looking at his card, thus bringing the wide end of the selected card at the narrow end of the pack when it is replaced. The hands are placed behind the pack for a double purpose, as the feat then seems more marvelous and the observers are not allowed to see how it is done.

In prize games, players having the same score are frequently called upon to cut for low to determine which shall be the winner, but a fairer way is to cut for high as a person familiar with the trick shown in Fig. 2 can cut the cards at the ace, deuce, or three spot, nearly every time, especially if the deck is a new one. This is done by simply pressing on the top of the deck as shown, before cutting, thus causing the increased ink surface of the high cards to adhere to the adjacent ones. A little practice will soon enable one to cut low nearly every time, but the cards must be grasped lightly and the experiment should be performed with a new deck to obtain successful results. —Contributed by D.B.L., Chicago.



** A Constant-Pressure Hydrogen Generator [70]

By fitting three bottles, A, B, C, with rubber stoppers and connecting with glass tubes as shown in the sketch, hydrogen or other gases produced in a similar manner may be generated under constant pressure. In making hydrogen, bottle B is partly filled with zinc nodules formed by slowly pouring melted zinc into water. Hydrochloric acid is then poured in the small funnel, thus partly filling bottles A and C. When the acid rising from C comes in contact with the zinc, hydrogen gas is generated and fills bottle B. The gas continues to generate until the pressure is sufficient to force the acid back down the tube into bottle C, when the action ceases. As fast as the gas is used the acid rises in the tube and generates more, thus keeping the pressure nearly constant, the pressure depending on the difference between the levels of the acid in bottle A and bottle B. As this device is easily upset, a ring-stand should be used to prevent its being broken, or if it is to be a permanent apparatus it may be mounted on a substantial wooden base. This apparatus may also be used for preparing acetylene gas or almost any gas which requires a mixture of a solid and liquid in its preparation. —Contributed by C. S. J., Detroit.



** Restoring Tone to a Cracked Bell [71]

Many a bell with a deadened tone due to a cracked rim, can be given its original clear ringing sound by sawing out the crack with a common hacksaw. Make the saw cut along the line of the crack. The opening caused by the saw will allow the free vibration of the metal. —Contributed by F. W. Bently, Jr., Huron, S. Dak.



** How to Make a Paper Phonograph Horn [71]

Secure a piece of tubing about 1-3/4 in. long that will fit the connection to the reproducer, and wrap a quantity of heavy thread around one end as shown in the enlarged sketch A, Fig. 1. Form a cone of heavy paper, 9 in. long and 3 in. in diameter, at the larger end with the smaller end to fit the diameter of the tube A, making it three-ply thick and gluing the layers together. Attach this cone on the tube A where the thread has been wrapped with glue, as shown in Fig. 2. Fig. 2 is also an enlarged sketch. Make ten pieces about 1 ft. 10 in. in length and 3 in. wide from the thin boards of a biscuit or cracker box. Cut an arc of a circle in them on a radius of 2 ft. (Fig. 3). Make a 10-sided stick, 12 in. long, that will fit loosely in the tube A, to which nail the 10 pieces as shown in Fig. 4, connecting the bottom by cross pieces, using care to keep them at equal distances apart and in a circle whose diameter is about 2 ft.



The cone is placed over the stick as shown by the dotted lines in Fig. 4 and temporarily fastened in position. Cut out paper sections (Fig. 5) that will cover each space between the 10 pieces, allowing 1 in. on one side and the top, in which to cut slits that will form pieces to overlap the next section and to attach with glue. Fasten the sections all around in like manner. The next course is put on in strips overlapping as shown at B, Fig. 6. Finish by putting on sections in the same way as the first course, making it three-ply thick. Remove the form, trim to suit and glue a piece of paper over the edge. When the glue is thoroughly hardened, put on two coats of white and one of blue paint, shading it to suit and striping it with gold bronze.



** How to Make a Hygrometer [71]

A homemade hygrometer, for determining the degree of moisture in the atmosphere, is shown in the accompanying sketch and consists of a board, A, with a nail at each end to hold the silk thread B. A second piece of silk thread, C, is tied to the center of B and connects with an indicating hand or pointer supported by the bracket D. The axle on which the pointer revolves consists of a piece of round wood, about the size of a lead-pencil, with a pin driven in each end. A piece of tin, E, is cut V-shaped at each end and bent up at the ends to form bearings for the pins. The silk thread C is fastened to the wooden axle and is wrapped one or two turns around it, so that when



the thread is pulled the pointer will move on the scale. It will be noticed that the thread B is not perfectly straight, but bends toward D. For this reason a very small shrinkage of B, such as occurs when the atmosphere is dry, will cause an increased movement of C, which will be further increased in the movement of the pointer. An instrument of this kind is very interesting and costs nothing to make. —Contributed by Reader, Denver.



** The Protection of a Spring Lock [72]

After shutting the front door and hearing the spring lock snap into its socket, most people go off with a childlike faith in the safety of their goods and chattels. But the cold fact is that there is scarcely any locking device which affords less protection than the ordinary spring lock. It is the simplest thing in the world for a sneak thief to slip a thin knife between the door-casing and the strip, push back the bolt, and walk in.

Fortunately, it is equally easy to block that trick. Take a narrow piece of tin 3 or 4 in. long, bend it at right angles throughout its length, and tack it firmly in the angle between the casing and strip, so as to make it impossible to reach the bolt without tearing off the strip.

Another way is to drive nails through the strip at intervals of half an inch, enough to protect the bolt from being meddled with.



** A Controller and Reverse for a Battery Motor [72]

Secure a cigar or starch box and use to make the base, B. Two wood-base switches, S S, are cut off a little past the center and fastened to the base with a piece of wood between them. The upper switch, S, is connected to different equal points on a coil of wire, W, while the lower switch, S, is connected each point to a battery, as shown. The reverse switch, R, is made from two brass or copper strips fastened at the top to the base with screws and joined together by a piece of hard rubber or wood with a small handle attached. Connect wires A to the armature and wires F to the field of the motor. By this arrangement one, two or three and so on up until all the battery cells are used and different points of resistance secured on the coil of wire. The reverse lever when moved from right to left, or left to right, changes the direction of the armature in the motor from one way to the other. —Contributed by J. Fremont Hilscher, Jr., West St. Paul, Minn.



** How to Build a Grape Arbor [73]

A grape arbor made of white pine, put together as shown in the sketch, will last for several years. The 2 by



4-in. posts, A, are 7 ft. long. The feet, B, are made 2 by 4 in., 4 ft. long, and rest on a brick placed under each end.



** How to Make a Toy Steam Engine [73]

A toy engine can be easily made from old implements which can be found in nearly every house.



The cylinder A, Fig. 1, is an old bicycle pump, cut in half. The steam chest D, is part of the piston tube of the same pump, the other parts being used for the bearing B, and the crank bearing C. The flywheel Q can be any small-sized iron wheel; either an old sewing-machine wheel, pulley wheel, or anything available. We used a wheel from an old high chair for our engine. If the bore in the wheel is too large for the shaft, it may be bushed with a piece of hard wood. The shaft is made of heavy steel wire, the size of the hole in the bearing B.



The base is made of wood, and has two wood blocks, H and K, 3/8 in. thick, to support bearing B, and valve crank S, which is made of tin. The hose E connects to the boiler, which will be described later. The clips FF are soldered to the cylinder and nailed to the base, and the bearing B is fastened by staples.

The valve motion is shown in Figs. 2 and 3. In Fig. 2 the steam is entering the cylinder, and in Fig. 3 the valve B has closed the steam inlet and opened the exhaust, thus allowing the steam in the cylinder to escape.

The piston is made of a stove bolt, E, Fig. 2, with two washers, FF, and a cylindrical piece of hard wood, G. This is wound with soft string, as shown in Fig. 3, and saturated with thick oil. A slot is cut in the end of the bolt E, to receive the connecting rod H. The valve B is made of an old bicycle spoke, C, with the nut cut in half and filed down as shown, the space between the two halves being filled with string and oiled.

The valve crank S, Fig. 1, is cut out of tin, or galvanized iron, and is moved by a small crank on the shaft. This crank should be at right angles to the main crank.



The boiler, Fig. 4, can be an old oil can, powder can, or a syrup can with a tube soldered to it, and is connected to the engine by a piece of rubber tubing. The heat from a small gas stove will furnish steam fast enough to run the engine at high speed. This engine was built by W. G. Schuh and A. J. Eustice, of Cuba, Wis.



** Writing with Electricity [74]

Soak a piece of white paper in a solution of potassium iodide and water for about a minute and then lay it on a piece of sheet metal. Connect the sheet metal with the negative or zinc side of a battery and then, using the positive wire as a pen, write your name or other inscription on the wet paper.



The result will be brown lines on a white background. —Contributed by Geo. W. Fry, San Jose, Cal.



** To Photograph a Man in a Bottle [74]

Neither a huge bottle nor a dwarfed man is necessary for this process, as it is merely a trick of photography, and a very amusing trick, at that.

First, photograph the person to be enclosed in the bottle against a dark plain background and mark the exact position on the ground glass. Let the exposure be just long enough to show the figure distinctly. Then place an empty bottle against a dark background and focus so as to have the outlines of the bottle enclose those of the man. Let this exposure be about twice the length of the first, and the desired result is obtained.



** A Musical Windmill [74]

Make two wheels out of tin. They may be of any size, but wheel A must be larger than wheel B. On wheel A fasten two pieces of wood, C, to cross in the center, and place a bell on the four ends, as shown. The smaller wheel, B, must be separated from the other with a round piece of wood or an old spool. Tie four buttons with split rings to the smaller wheel, B. The blades on the wheels should be bent opposite on one wheel from the others so as to make the wheels turn in different directions. When turning, the buttons will strike the bells and make them ring constantly.



** Optical Illusions [74]

By giving the page a revolving or rinsing motion the three circular figures printed on the next page appear to rotate. The best effect will be produced by laying the book down flat on the desk or table and revolving, first



in one direction and then in the opposite direction, in such a way that any given point on the page will describe a circle of about 1/2 in. diameter. Fig. 1 then appears to rotate in the same direction as the revolution; Fig. 2 appears to revolve in the opposite direction, and Fig. 3 appears to revolve sometimes in the same direction and at other times in the opposite direction.

A curious effect can be produced with Fig. 1 by covering up Figs. 2 and 3 with a piece of plain paper and laying a coin or other small object on the paper. If the vision is then concentrated on the coin or other object while same is being revolved, Fig. 1 will be seen to rotate.



** Barrel-Stave Hammock [75]

A hammock made of barrel staves is more comfortable than one would think, considering the nature of the material employed in making it. Good smooth staves should be selected for this purpose, and if one cares to go to little trouble a thorough sandpapering will make a great improvement. Cut half circles out of each stave, as shown at AA, and pass ropes around



the ends as shown at B. When finished the weight will then be supported by four ropes at each end, which allows the use of small sized ropes, such as clothes lines. A hammock of this kind may be left out in the rain without injury. —Contributed by H.G.M., St. Louis, Mo.



** A Singing Telephone [75]

Those who have not already tried the experiment may be interested to know that a telephone may be made to sing by holding the receiver about 1/16 in. from the transmitter, as shown in the illustration. The experiment will



work well on most telephones, but not on all.

When the receiver is placed in the position shown it acts like an ordinary buzzer, and the function of the transmitter will then be that of an interrupter. The slightest movement of the transmitter diaphragm will cause an increased movement of the receiver diaphragm. This in turn will act on the transmitter, thus setting up sympathetic vibrations between the two, which accounts for the sound.



** A Microscope Without a Lens [76] By E. W. DAVIS

Nearly everyone has heard of the pin-hole camera, but the fact that the same principle can be used to make a microscope, having a magnifying power of 8 diameters (64 times) will perhaps be new to some readers. To make this lensless microscope, procure a wooden spool, A (a short spool, say 1/2 or 3/4 in. long, produces a higher magnifying power), and enlarge the bore a little at one end. Then blacken the inside with india ink and allow to dry. From a piece of thin



transparent celluloid or mica, cut out a small disk, B, and fasten to the end having the enlarged bore, by means of brads. On the other end glue a piece of thin black cardboard, C, and at the center, D, make a small hole with the point of a fine needle. It is very important that the hole D should be very small, otherwise the image will be blurred.

To use this microscope, place a small object on the transparent disk, which may be moistened to make the object adhere, and look through the hole D. It is necessary to have a strong light to get good results and, as in all microscopes of any power, the object should be of a transparent nature.

The principle on which this instrument works is illustrated in Fig. 2. The apparent diameter of an object is inversely proportional to its distance from the eye, i. e., if the distance is reduced to one-half, the diameter will appear twice as large; if the distance is reduced to one-third, the diameter will appear three times as large, and so on. As the nearest distance at which the average person can see an object clearly is about 6 in., it follows that the diameter of an object 3/4 in. from the eye would appear 8 times the normal size. The object would then be magnified 8 diameters, or 64 times. (The area would appear 64 times as large.) But an object 3/4-in. from the eye appears so blurred that none of the details are discernible, and it is for this reason that the pin-hole is employed.

Viewed through this microscope, a fly's wing appears as large as a person's hand, held at arm's length, and has the general appearance shown in Fig. 3. The mother of vinegar examined in the same way is seen to be swarming with a mass of wriggling little worms, and may possibly cause the observer to abstain from all salads forever after. An innocent-looking drop of water, in which hay has been soaking for several days, reveals hundreds of little infusoria, darting across the field in every direction. These and hundreds of other interesting objects may be observed in this little instrument, which costs little or nothing to make.



** How to Make a Telegraph Key and Sounder [76]

The sounder, Fig. 1, is made from an old electric-bell magnet, D, fastened to a wooden base. The lever, A, can be made of brass and the armature, C, is made of iron. The pivot, E, is made from a wire nail and is soldered to A. It should be filed to a point at each end so as to move freely in the bearings, B, which are pieces of hard wood. The spring, H, is fastened at each end by pins, bent as shown, and should not be too strong or the magnet will be unable to move the armature.



The stop, K, is a wire nail driven deep enough in the base to leave about 1/8 in. between the armature and the magnet. The binding posts, F, may be taken from old dry batteries and are connected to the two wires from the magnet by wires run in grooves cut in the base.

The base of the key, Fig. 2, is also made of wood and has two wooden bearings, E, which are made to receive a pivot, similar to the one used in the sounder. The lever of the key is made of brass and has a hardwood knob, A, fastened near the end. A switch, D, connects with the pivot at F and can be either made from sheet brass, or taken from a small one-point switch. The binding posts are like those of the sounder, and are connected to the contacts, K, by wires run in grooves cut in the wood.



** How to Make a Music Cabinet [77]

A neat music cabinet can be made as shown in the accompanying sketch. Each side, AA, Fig. 1, is cut from a board about 36 in. in length and 16 in. wide. Both are alike and can be cut from the same pattern. As the front legs curve out a little the main body of the boards AA should be 15 in. wide. The back, B, should be about 22 in. long by 16 in. wide and set in between sides AA. Cut the top, C, 16 in. long and 14-1/2 in. wide. The bottom must be the same length as the top and 13-1/2 in. wide.

The door, D, can be made panel as shown, or a single piece, 16 in. wide and about 20 in. long. All material used is to be made from boards that will dress to 3/4 in. thick.



Shelving may be put in as shown in Fig. 2 and made from 1/4-in. material. Make 12 cleats, E, 13-1/2 in. long, from a strip of wood 1/2 by 3/4 in., with a groove 1/4 by 1/4 in. cut in them. Fasten 6 cleats evenly spaced on the inside of each of the sides, AA, with 3/4-in. brads. This will give seven spaces for music and as the shelves are removable two places can be made into one.



** Easily Made Wireless Coherer [77]

A good wireless coherer may be made with very little expense, the only materials necessary being a glass tube, two corks: a magnetized needle and a quantity of iron and silver filings. Push a piece of wire through one cork and place in the bottom of the tube, as shown in the sketch.

Pour in the filings and insert the top cork with the needle pushed through



from above. The point of the needle should barely touch the filings and by slightly agitating the tube the iron filings will separate from the silver and cling to the magnetized needle, as shown.

In operation, the device must stand on end and should be connected in the circuit as shown in the sketch. When the electrical waves strike the needle, the conductivity of the filings is established and a click is heard in the receiver. —Contributed by Carl Formhals, Garfield, Ill.



** One-Wire Telegraph Line [78]

The accompanying wiring diagram shows a telegraph system that requires no switches and may be operated with open-circuit batteries on a one-wire



line with ground connections at each end. Any telegraph set in which the key makes double contact can be connected up in this way. —Contributed by R. A. Brown, Fairport, N. Y.



** How to Make a Water Rheostat [78]

A water rheostat may be made by fitting a brass tube with a cork, through which a piece of wire is passed. The brass tube may be an old bicycle hand pump, A (see sketch), filled with water. Pushing the wire, B, down into the water increases the surface in contact, and thus decreases the resistance. An apparatus of this kind is suitable for regulating the current from an induction coil, when the coil is not provided with a regulator, and by using a piece of pipe instead of the tube, it can be used to regulate the speed of a motor.

When the pipe is used, a piece of brass or copper rod should be substituted for the wire, in order to increase the surface. Adding salt to the water will decrease the resistance, and, when used with a motor, will give a greater speed. —Contributed by John Koehler, Ridgewood, N. J.



** Electric Door-Opener [78]

A very convenient and efficient device for unlocking any door fitted with a spring lock is shown in the accompanying sketches. A fairly stiff spring, A, is connected by a flexible wire cord to the knob B. The cord is also fastened to a lever, C, which is pivoted at D and is released by a magnetic trigger, E, made from the armature and magnet of an old electric bell.

When the circuit is completed by means of a secret contact device outside the door, the magnet, F, pulls down the armature, which releases the trigger and allows the spring to open the lock. If there are metal numbers on the outside of the door they may be used for the secret contact, if desired,



but if there are no numbers on the door, a small contact-board may be constructed by driving about 12 brass headed tacks into a thin piece of wood and making connections at the back as shown in the wiring diagram.

In this particular diagram the tacks numbered 1 and 7 are used for unlocking the door, the others being connected with the electric-bell circuit as indicated, for the purpose of giving an alarm should anybody try to experiment with the secret contacts. By means of a pocket knife or other metal article the operator can let himself in at any time by connecting the tacks numbered 1 and 7, while a person not knowing the combination would be liable to sound the alarm. Of course, the builder of this device may choose a combination of his own and may thus prevent anybody else from entering the door, even those who read this description. —Contributed by Perry A. Borden, Gachville, N. B.



** How to Tighten a Curtain-Roller Spring [79]

A common table fork can be used to hold the little projection on the end of a curtain roller for tightening the spring. Hold the fork firmly with one hand while turning the roller with the other. Do not let go of the fork until the little catches are set in position to prevent the spring from turning, or else the fork may be thrown off with dangerous force.



** Alarm Clock Chicken Feeder [79]

An automatic poultry feeder, which will discharge the necessary amount of corn or other feed at any desired time, may be made by using an alarm clock as shown in the sketch. A small wire trigger rests on the winding key and supports the swinging bottom of the food hopper by means of a piece of string which connects the two. When the alarm goes off the trigger drops and allows the door to open, thus discharging the contents of the hopper.

After the device has been in operation for some time the hens will run to the feeder whenever the. bell rings. —Contributed by Dr. H. A. Dobson, Washington, D. C.



** Homemade Disk-Record Cabinet [79]

Select some boards that have a nice grain and about 1 in. thick and 12-in. wide. Cut the end pieces each 36-in. long and trim down the edges so as to make them 11-3/8 in. wide. The top board is made 28-in. long and full 12-in. wide. The three shelves are cut 25-in. long and the edges trimmed so they will be 11-3/8 in. wide. The distance between the bottom of the top board and the top of the first shelf should be 3 in. Two drawers are fitted in this space, as shown in Fig. 1. A series of grooves are cut 1/4 in. wide,



1/4 in. deep and 3/4 in. apart on one side of the top and bottom shelves, as shown in Fig. 2, and on both sides of the middle shelf. The shelves should be spaced 9-5/8 in. for 10-in. records and 5-5/8 in. for 6-in. records. A neat scroll design is cut from a board 25 in. long to fill up and finish the space below the bottom shelf. —Contributed by H. E. Mangold, Compton, Cal.



** A Battery Rheostat [80]

In a board 7 in. long and 5 in. wide bore holes about 1/4 in. apart, in a semicircle 2 in. from the bottom, and cut notches in top end to correspond with the holes. From a piece of brass a switch, C, is cut with a knob soldered on at the end. Nails for stops are placed at DD. Two binding-posts are placed in board at A and B. With about 9 ft. of fine iron wire attach one end to the bottom of post A and run through first hole and over in first notch to back of board and then through second hole and over second notch and so on until E is reached, where the other end of wire is fastened. Connect switch to post B. —Contributed by Edmund Kuhn, Jr., East Orange, N. J.



** Automatic Time Switch [80]

This device may be used to either open or close the circuit at any desired time. An alarm clock is firmly fastened to a wooden bracket and provided with a small wood or metal drum, A, to which is fastened a cord, B. The other end of the cord is tied to the switch handle so that when the alarm goes off the switch is either opened or closed, depending on whether the cord is passed over pulley C or pulley D.

When the cord is passed over pulley C, as shown in Fig. 1, the circuit will be closed when the alarm goes off, but if it is passed over D the circuit will be opened. Pulley D is fastened to a piece of spring steel, E, which in operation is bent, as shown by the dotted lines, thus causing the switch to snap open quickly and prevent forming an arc. —Contributed by Douglas Royer, Roanoke, Va.



** How to Make a Rotary Pump [81]



A simple rotary pump is constructed on the principle of creating a vacuum in a rubber tube and so causing water to rise to fill the vacuum. Figs. 3, 4 and 5 show all the parts needed, excepting the crank and tubing. The dimensions and description given are for a minimum pump, but a larger one could be built in proportion.

Through the center of a block of wood 4 in. square and 7/8 in. thick (A, Figs. 1, 2 and 3) saw a circular opening 2-7/8 in. in diameter. On each side of this block cut a larger circle 3-1/4 in. in diameter, having the same center as the first circle (Fig. 3). Cut the last circles only 1/4 in. deep, leaving the first circle in the form of a ridge or track 3/8 in. wide, against which the rubber tubing, E, is compressed by wheels. Bore two 1/4 in. holes (HH, Fig. 1) from the outside of the block to the edge of the inner circle. Put the rubber tube, E, through one of these holes, pass it around the track and out through the other hole. Notice the break (S) in the track; this is necessary in order to place in position the piece holding the wheels.

Fig. 4 shows the wheel-holder, B. Make it of hard wood 3-1/8 in. long, 1 in. wide and a little less than 7/8 in. thick, so that it will run freely between the sides (Fig. 5) when they are placed. Cut two grooves, one in each end, 1 in. deep and 1/2 in. wide. In these grooves place wheels, CC, to turn on pins of stout wire. These wheels should be 3/4 in. in diameter. When placed in the holder their centers must be exactly 2 in. apart, or so arranged that the distance between the edge of the wheels and the track (K, Fig. 1) is equal to the thickness of the tubing when pressed flat. If the wheels fit too tightly, they will bind; it too loose, they will let the air through. Bore a hole through the middle of the wheel-holder and insert the crankpin, D, which should be about 1/2 in. in diameter. The crankpin should fit tightly; if necessary drive a brad through to keep it from slipping.

In the sides (Fig. 5) bore a hole in the center of the crankpin to run in loosely. Now put all these parts together, as shown in the illustration. Do not fasten the sides too securely until you have tried the device and are sure it will run smoothly. For the crank a bent piece of stout wire or a nail will serve, though a small iron wheel is better, as it gives steadiness to the motion. In this case a handle must be attached to the rim of the wheel to serve as a crank. The drive wheel from a broken-down eggbeater will do nicely. For ease in handling the pump, a platform should be added.

To use the pump, fill the tube with water and place the lower end of the tube in a reservoir of water. Make a nozzle of the end of a clay pipe stem for the other end of the tube. Then turn the crank from left to right. The first wheel presses the air out of the tube, creating a vacuum which is immediately filled with water. Before the first wheel releases the tube at the top, the other wheel has reached the bottom, this time pressing along the water that was brought up by the first wheel. If the motion of the wheels is regular, the pump will give a steady stream. Two feet of 1/4-in. tubing, costing 10 cents, is all the expense necessary. —Contributed by Dan H. Hubbard, Idana, Kan.



** How to Make a Fire Screen [82]



A screen which will not interfere with the radiation of the heat from the fire, and will keep skirts and children safe can be made at little expense out of some strap iron. The screen which is shown in Fig. 1, stands 20 in. high from the base to the top crosspiece and is made of 3/4 by 1/4-in. and 1/2 by 1/4-in. iron. The top and bottom pieces marked AA, Fig. 1, are 3/4 by 1/4 in. and are 30 in. long, bent at an angle to fit the fireplace 7 in. from each end, as shown in Fig. 2. The three legs marked BBB, Fig. 1, are of the same size iron and each leg will take 34 in. of material. In shaping the feet of these three pieces give them a slight tendency to lean toward the fire or inside of screen, says a correspondent in the Blacksmith and Wheelwright. In the two cross bars 1 in. from each end, A in Fig. 2, mark for hole and 3 in. from that mark the next hole. Take the center of the bar, B, 15 in. from each end, and mark for a hole, and 3-1/2 in. on each side mark again and 3-1/2 in. beyond each of these two, mark again.

Mark the legs 2-3/4 in. from the bottom and 2 in. from the top and after making rivet-holes rivet them to the cross bars, AA, Fig. 1.

Cut six pieces, 17-1/2 in. long and punch holes to fit and rivet onto the remaining holes in cross bars, AA, Fig. 1. Clean it up and give it a coat of black Japan or dead black.



** Trap for Small Animals [82]

This is a box trap with glass sides and back, the panes of glass being held in place by brads placed on both sides. The animal does not fear to enter the box, because he can see through it: when he enters, however, and touches the bait the lid is released and, dropping, shuts him in. This is one of the easiest traps to build and is usually successful.



** Homemade Grenet Battery [83]

Procure an ordinary carbon-zinc, sal-ammoniac battery and remove the zinc rod. If the battery has been used before, it is better to soak the carbon cylinder for a few hours to remove any remaining crystals of sal-ammoniac from its pores.

The truncated, conical zinc required is known as a fuller's zinc and can be bought at any electrical supply dealer's, or, it may be cast in a sand mold from scrap zinc or the worn-out zinc rods from sal-ammoniac batteries. It should be cast on the end of a piece of No. 14 copper wire. Amalgamation is not necessary for the zinc one buys, but if one casts his own zinc, it is necessary to amalgamate it or coat it with mercury. This may be done as follows:

Dip a piece of rag in a diluted solution of sulphuric acid (water 16 parts, acid 1 part); rub the zinc well, at the same time allowing a few drops of mercury to fall on a spot attacked by the acid. The mercury will adhere, and if the rubbing is continued so as to spread the mercury, it will cover the entire surface of the zinc, giving it a bright, silvery appearance.

Next procure what is known as a wire connector. This is a piece of copper tube about 1-1/2 in. long having two thumb screws, one on each end on opposite sides (Fig. 2). The upper screw is to connect the battery wire, the lower one to raise and lower the zinc. The battery is now complete, and the solution (Fig. 1) must be prepared. Proceed as follows:

In 32 oz. of water dissolve 4 oz. potassium bichromate. When the bichromate has all dissolved, add slowly, stirring constantly, 4 oz. sulphuric acid. Do not add the acid too quickly or the heat generated may break the vessel containing the solution. Then pour the solution into the battery jar, until it is within 3 in. of the top. Thread the wire holding the zinc through the porcelain insulator of the carbon cylinder and also through the wire connector. Pull the zinc up as far as it will go and tighten the lower thumb screw so that it holds the wire secure. Place the carbon in the jar. If the solution touches the zinc, some of it should be poured out. To determine whether or not the zinc is touched by the solution, take out the carbon and lower the zinc. If it is wet, there is too much liquid in the jar. The battery is now ready for use.

To cause a flow of electricity, lower the zinc until it almost touches the bottom of the jar and connect an electric bell or other electrical apparatus by means of wires to the two binding posts.

This battery when first set up gives a current of about two volts. It is useful for running induction coils, or small electric motors. When through using the battery, raise the zinc and tighten the lower thumb screw. This prevents the zinc wasting away when no current is being used. —Contributed by H. C. Meyer, Philadelphia.



** Door-Opener for Furnace [83]

The accompanying diagram shows an arrangement to open the coal door of a furnace. When approaching the furnace with a shovelful of coal it is usually necessary to rest the shovel on the top of the ash door, while the coal door is being opened. With my device it is only necessary to press the foot pedal, which opens the door. After putting in the coal, pressing the pedal closes the door. The pulley in the ceiling must be placed a little in front of the door, in order to throw the door open after lifting it from the catch. A large gate hinge is used to hold the pedal to the floor. —Contributed by Edward Whitney, Madison, Wis.



** How to Make an Efficient Wireless Telegraph [84] By GEORGE W. RICHARDSON

A simple but very efficient wireless telegraph may be constructed at slight cost from the following description:

The sending apparatus consists of nothing but an induction coil with a telegraph key inserted in the primary circuit, i. e., the battery circuit. This apparatus may be purchased from any electrical-supply house. The price of the coil depends upon its size, and upon the size depends the distance signals can be transmitted. If, however, one wishes to construct his own coil he can make and use, with slight changes, the jump-spark coil described elsewhere in this book. This coil, being a 1-in. coil, will transmit nicely up to a distance of one mile; while a 12-in. coil made on the same plan will transmit 20 miles or even more under favorable conditions.

Change the coil described, as follows: Insert an ordinary telegraph key in the battery circuit, and attach two small pieces of wire with a brass ball on each, by inserting them in the binding-posts of the coil as shown at B B". Of these two terminal wires one is grounded to earth, while the other wire is sent aloft and is called the aerial line. This constitutes all there is to the sending apparatus.

Now for the receiving apparatus. In the earlier receiving instruments a coherer was used, consisting of a glass tube about 1/8-in. diameter, in which were two silver pistons separated by nickel and silver filings, in a partial vacuum. This receiver was difficult of adjustment and slow in transmission. An instrument much less complicated and inexpensive and which will work well can be made thus:

Take a 5-cp. incandescent lamp and break off the tip at the dotted line, as shown in Fig. 5. This can be done by giving the glass tip or point a quick blow with a file or other thin edged piece of metal. Then with a blow-torch heat the broken edges until red hot and turn the edges in as seen in Fig. 6. Remove the carbon filament in the lamp and bend the two small platinum wires so they will point at each other as in Fig. 6, W W. Screw the lamp into an ordinary wall socket which will serve as a base as in Fig. 7. Make a solution of 1 part sulphuric acid to 4 parts of water, and fill the lamp about two-thirds full (Fig. 7). This will make an excellent receiver. It will be necessary to adjust the platinum points, W W, to suit the distance the message is to be worked. For a mile or less the points should be about 1/16 in. apart, and closer for longer distances.

The tuning coil is simply a variable choking coil, made of No. 14 insulated copper wire wound on an iron core, as shown in Fig. 7. After winding, carefully scrape the insulation from one side of the coil, in a straight line from top to bottom, the full length of the coil, uncovering just enough to allow a



good contact for the sliding piece. The tuning is done by sliding the contact piece, which is made of light copper wire, along the convolutions of the tuning coil until you can hear the signals. The signals are heard in a telephone receiver, which is shown connected in shunt across the binding posts of the lamp holder with one or two cells of dry battery in circuit, Fig. 7.



The aerial line, No.6 stranded, is run from binding-post B through the choking or tuning coil, and for best results should extend up 50 ft. in the air. To work a 20-mile distance the line should be 100 or 150 ft. above the ground. A good way is to erect a wooden pole on a house or barn and carry the aerial wire to the top and out to the end of a gaff or arm.

To the end of the aerial wire fasten a bunch of endless loops made of about No. 14 magnet wire (bare or insulated), attaching both ends to the leading or aerial wire. The aerial wire should not come nearer than 1 ft. at any point to any metal which is grounded.

Run a wire from the other binding post, A, to the ground and be sure to make a good ground connection.

For simple experimental work on distances of 100 ft. only, an ordinary automobile spark coil can be used in place of the more elaborate coil, Figs. 1 to 4.

The above-mentioned instruments have no patents on them, and anyone is at liberty to build and use them. The writer does not claim to be the originator, but simply illustrates the above to show that, after all, wireless is very simple when it is once understood. The fundamental principles are that induction travels at right angles, 90 degrees, to the direction of the current. For an illustration, if a person standing on a bridge should drop a pebble into the water below, after contact he would note circles radiating out over the surface of the water. These circles, being at right angles, 90 degrees, to the direction of the force that caused the circles, are analogous to the flow of induction, and hence the aerial line, being vertical, transmits signals horizontally over the earth's surface.



** Beeswax for Wood Filler [85]

When filling nail holes in yellow pine use beeswax instead of putty, as it matches the color well.



** How to Make a Lathe [86]

A small speed-lathe, suitable for turning wood or small metal articles, may be easily made at very little expense. A lathe of this kind is shown in the cut (Fig. 1), where A is the headstock, B the bed and C the tailstock. I run my lathe by power, using an electric motor and countershaft, but it could be run by foot power if desired. A large cone pulley would then be required, but this may be made in the same manner as the small one, which will be described later.



The bed of the machine is made of wood as shown in Figs. 2 and 3, hardwood being preferable for this purpose. Fig. 2 shows an end view of the assembled bed, and Fig. 3 shows how the ends are cut out to receive the side pieces.

The headstock, Fig. 6, is fastened to the bed by means of carriage bolts, A, which pass through a piece of wood, B, on the under side of the bed. The shaft is made of 3/4-in. steel tubing about 1/8 in. thick, and runs in babbitt bearings, one of which is shown in Fig. 5.

To make these bearings, cut a square hole in the wood as shown, making half of the square in each half of the bearing. Separate the two halves of the bearing slightly by placing a piece of cardboard on each side, just touching the shaft. The edges which touch the shaft should be notched like the teeth of a saw, so as to allow the babbitt to run into the lower half of the bearing. The notches for this purpose may be about 1/8 in. pitch and 1/8 in. deep. Place pieces of wood against the ends of the bearing as shown at A and B, Fig. 4, and drill a hole in the top of the bearing as shown in Fig. 4.

The bearing is then ready to be poured. Heat the babbitt well, but not hot enough to burn it, and it is well to have the shaft hot, too, so that the babbitt will not be chilled when it strikes the shaft. If the shaft is thoroughly chalked or smoked the babbitt will not stick to it. After pouring, remove the shaft and split the bearing with a round, tapered wooden pin. If the bearing has been properly made, it will split along the line of the notched cardboard where the section of the metal is smallest. Then drill a hole in the top as shown at A, Fig. 5, drilling just deep enough to have the point of the drill appear at the lower side. This cavity acts as an oil cup and prevents the bearing from running dry.

The bolts B (Fig. 5) are passed through holes in the wood and screwed into nuts C, which are let into holes



D, the holes afterward being filled with melted lead.

This type of bearing will be found very satisfactory and may be used to advantage on other machines. After the bearings are completed the cone pulley can be placed on the shaft. To make this pulley cut three circular pieces of wood to the dimensions given in Fig. 6 and fasten these together with nails and glue. If not perfectly true, they may be turned up after assembling, by rigging up a temporary toolrest in front of the headstock.

The tail stock (Fig. 7) is fastened to the bed in the same manner as the headstock, except that thumb nuts are used on the carriage bolts, thus allowing the tail stock to be shifted when necessary. The mechanism of the center holder is obtained by using a 1/2-in.



pipe, A, and a 1/2-in. lock nut, B, embedded in the wood. I found that a wooden tool-rest was not satisfactory, so I had to buy one, but they are inexpensive and much handier than homemade tool rest. —Contributed by Donald Reeves, Oak Park, Ill.



** To Use Old Battery Zincs [87]

When the lower half of a battery zinc becomes eaten away the remaining part can be used again by suspending it from a wire as shown in the cut. Be sure and have a good connection at the zinc binding post and cover that with melted paraffin. This prevents corrosion, which would otherwise occur from the action of the sal ammoniac or other chemical. The wire may be held at the top by twisting it around a piece



of wood or by driving a peg through the hole in the porcelain insulator. —Contributed by Louis Lauderbach, Newark, N.J.



** Callers' Approach Alarm [87]

This alarm rings so that callers approaching the door may be seen before they ring the bell and one can exercise his pleasure about admitting them.

If one has a wooden walk, the alarm is easy to fix up. Take up about 5 ft. of the walk and nail it together so as to make a trapdoor that will work easily. Place a small spring under one end to hold it up about 1/4 in. (A, Fig. 2). Nail a strip of tin along the under side of the trap near the spring and fasten another strip on the baseboard, so that they will not touch, save when a weight is on the trap. Connect up an electric bell, putting the batteries and bell anywhere desired, and using rubber-covered



wire outside the house, and the alarm is complete.

When a person approaching the house steps on the trap, the bell will ring and those in the house can see who it is before the door bell rings. —Contributed by R. S. Jackson, Minneapolis, Minn.



** Easy Method of Electroplating [88]

Before proceeding to electroplate with copper, silver or other metal, clean the articles thoroughly, as the least spot of grease or dirt will prevent



the deposit from adhering. Then polish the articles and rub them over with a cloth and fine pumice powder, to roughen the surface slightly. Finally, to remove all traces of grease, dip the articles to be plated in a boiling potash solution made by dissolving 4 oz. American ash in 1-1/2 pt. of water. Do not touch the work with the hands again. To avoid touching it, hang the articles on the wires, by which they are to be suspended in the plating bath, before dipping them in the potash solution; then hold them by the wires under running water for ten minutes to completely remove every trace of the potash.

For plating with copper prepare the following solution: 4 oz. copper sulphate dissolved in 12 oz. water; add strong ammonia solution until no more green crystals are precipitated. Then add more ammonia and stir until the green crystals are re-dissolved giving an intense blue solution. Add slowly a strong solution of potassium cyanide until the blue color disappears, leaving a clear solution; add potassium cyanide again, about one-fourth as much in bulk as used in the decolorizing process. Then make the solution up to 2 qt. with water. With an electric pressure of 3.5 to 4 volts, this will give an even deposit of copper on the article being plated.

A solution for silver plating may be prepared as follows: Dissolve 3/4 oz. of commercial silver nitrate in 8 oz. of water, and slowly add a strong solution of potassium cyanide until no more white precipitate is thrown down. Then pour the liquid off and wash the precipitate carefully. This is best done by filling the bottle with water, shaking, allowing precipitate to settle and then pouring off the water. Repeat six times. Having finished washing the precipitate, slowly add to it a solution of potassium cyanide until all the precipitate is dissolved. Then add an excess of potassium cyanide—about as much as was used in dissolving the precipitate—and make the solution up to 1 qt. with water. This solution, with an electric pressure of 2 to 4 volts, will give a good white coat of silver in twenty minutes to half-an-hour; use 2 volts for large articles, and 4 volts for very small ones. If more solution is required, it is only necessary to double all given quantities.

Before silver plating, such metals as iron, lead, pewter, zinc, must be coated with copper in the alkaline copper bath described, and then treated as copper. On brass, copper, German silver, nickel and such metals, silver can be plated direct. The deposit of silver will be dull and must be polished. The best method is to use a revolving scratch brush; if one does not possess a buffing machine, a hand scratch brush is good. Take quick, light strokes. Polish the articles finally with ordinary plate powder.

The sketch shows how to suspend the articles in the plating-bath. If accumulators are used, which is advised, be sure to connect the positive (or red) terminal to the piece of silver hanging in the bath, and the negative (or black) terminal to the article to be plated. Where Bunsen cells are used, the carbon terminal takes the place of the positive terminal of the accumulator. —Model Engineer.



** An Ingenious Electric Lock for a Sliding Door [89]

The apparatus shown in Fig. 1 not only unlocks, but opens the door, also, by simply pressing the key in the keyhole.

In rigging it to a sliding door, the materials required are: Three flat pulleys, an old electric bell or buzzer, about 25 ft. of clothesline rope and some No. 18 wire. The wooden catch, A (Fig. 1), must be about 1 in. thick



and 8 in. long; B should be of the same wood, 10 in. long, with the pivot 2 in. from the lower end. The wooden block C, which is held by catch B, Can be made of a 2-in. piece of broomstick. Drill a hole through the center of this block for the rope to pass through, and fasten it to the rope with a little tire tape.

When all this is set up, as shown in Fig. 1, make a key and keyhole. A 1/4 in. bolt or a large nail sharpened to a point, as at F, Fig. 3, will serve for the key. To provide the keyhole, saw a piece of wood, I, 1 in. thick by 3 in. square, and bore a hole to fit the key in the center. Make a somewhat larger block (E, Fig. 3) of thin wood with a 1/8-in. hole in its center. On one side of this block tack a piece of tin (K, Fig. 3) directly over the hole. Screw the two blocks together, being careful to bring the holes opposite each other. Then, when the point of the key touches the tin, and the larger part (F, Fig. 3) strikes the bent wire L, a circuit is completed; the buzzer knocks catch A (Fig. 1), which rises at the opposite end and allows catch B to fly forward and release the piece of broom-stick C. The weight D then falls and jerks up the hook-lock M, which unlocks the door, and the heavier weight N immediately opens it.

Thus, with a switch as in Fig. 3, the door can only be opened by the person who has the key, for the circuit cannot be closed with an ordinary nail or wire. B, Fig. 2, shows catch B, Fig. 1, enlarged; 0, Fig. 2, is the cut through which the rope runs; H, Fig. 1, is an elastic that snaps the catch back into place, and at G the wires run outside to the keyhole.

This arrangement is very convenient when one is carrying something in one hand and can only use the other. Closing the door winds up the apparatus again. —Contributed by E. H. Klipstein, 116 Prospect St., East Orange, New Jersey.



** Parlor Magic for Winter Evenings [90] By C. H. CLAUDY

You are seated in a parlor at night, with the lights turned low. In front of you, between the parlor and the room back of it, is an upright square of brightly burning lights, surrounding a perfectly black space. The magician stands in front of this, in his shirt sleeves, and after a few words of introduction proceeds to show the wonders of his magic cave.

Showing you plainly that both hands are empty, he points with one finger to the box, where immediately appears a small white china bowl. Holding his empty hand over this bowl, some oranges and apples drop from his empty hand into the bowl. He removes the bowl from the black box, or cave, and hands its contents round to the audience. Receiving the bowl again, he tosses it into the cave, but it never reaches the floor—it disappears in midair.

The illusions he shows you are too many to retail at length. Objects appear and disappear. Heavy metal objects, such as forks, spoons and jackknives, which have been shown to the audience and which can have no strings attached to them, fly about in the box at the will of the operator. One thing changes to another and back again, and black art reigns supreme.

Now all this "magic" is very simple and requires no more skill to prepare or execute than any clever boy or girl of fourteen may possess. It is based on the performance of the famous Hermann, and relies on a principle of optics for its success. To prepare such a magic cave, the requisites are a large soap box, a few simple tools, some black paint, some black cloth, and plenty of candles.

The box must be altered first. One end is removed, and a slit, one-third of the length from the remaining end, cut in one side. This slit should be as long as the width of the box and about five inches wide. On either side of the box, half way from open end to closed end, should be cut a hole, just large enough to comfortably admit a hand and arm.

Next, the box should be painted black both inside and out, and finally lined inside with black cloth. This lining must be done neatly-no folds must show and no heads of tacks. The interior must be a dead black. The box is painted black first so that the cloth used need not be very heavy; but if the cloth be sufficiently thick, no painting inside is required. The whole inside is to be cloth-lined, floor, top, sides and end.



Next, the illumination in front must be arranged. If you can have a plumber make you a square frame of gas-piping, with tiny holes all along it for the gas to escape and be lit, and connect this by means of a rubber tube to the gas in the house, so much the better; but a plentiful supply of short candles will do just as well, although a little more trouble. The candles must be close together and arranged on little brackets around the whole front of the "cave" (see small cut), and should have little pieces of bright tin behind them, to throw the light toward the audience. The whole function of these candles is to dazzle the eyes of the spectators, heighten the illusion, and prevent them seeing very far into the black box.

Finally, you must have an assistant, who must be provided with either black gloves or black bags to go over his hands and arms, and several black drop curtains, attached to sticks greater in length than the width of the box, which are let down through the slit in the top.

The audience room should have only low lights; the room where the cave is should be dark, and if you can drape portieres between two rooms around the box (which, of course, is on a table) so much the better.

The whole secret of the trick lies in the fact that if light be turned away from anything black, into the eyes of him who looks, the much fainter light reflected from the black surface will not affect the observer's eye. Consequently, if, when the exhibitor puts his hand in the cave, his confederate behind inserts his hand, covered with a black glove and holding a small bag of black cloth, in which are oranges and apples, and pours them from the bag into a dish, the audience sees the oranges and apples appear, but does not see the black arm and bag against the black background.

The dish appears by having been placed in position behind a black curtain, which is snatched swiftly away at the proper moment by the assistant. Any article thrown into the cave and caught by the black hand and concealed by a black cloth seems to disappear. Any object not too large can be made to "levitate" by the same means. A picture of anyone present may be made to change into a grinning skeleton by suddenly screening it with a dropped curtain, while another curtain is swiftly removed from over a pasteboard skeleton, which can be made to dance either by strings, or by the black veiled hand holding on to it from behind, and the skeleton can change to a white cat.

But illusions suggest themselves. There is no end to the effects which can be had from this simple apparatus, and if the operators are sufficiently well drilled the result is truly remarkable to the uninitiated. The illusion, as presented by Hermann, was identical with this, only he, of course, had a big stage, and people clothed in black to creep about and do his bidding, while here the power behind the throne is but a black-veiled hand and arm. It can be made even more complicated by having two assistants, one on each side of the box, and this is the reason why it was advised that two holes be cut. This enables an absolutely instantaneous change as one uncovers the object at the moment the second assistant covers and removes the other.



It is important that the assistants remain invisible throughout, and if portieres are impossible, a screen must be used. But any boy ingenious enough to follow these simple instructions will not need to be told that the whole success of the exhibition depends upon the absolute failure of the audience to understand that there is more than one concerned in bringing about the curious effects which are seen. The exhibitor should be a boy who can talk; a good "patter"—as the magicians call it—is often of more value than a whole host of mechanical effects and helpers. It is essential that the exhibitor and his confederate be well drilled, so that the latter can produce the proper effects at the proper cue from the former. Finally, never give an exhibition with the "cave" until you have watched the illusions from the front yourself; so that you can determine whether everything connected with the draping is right, or whether some stray bit of light reveals what you wish to conceal.



** Reversing-Switch for Electrical Experiments [92]

A homemade reversing-switch, suitable for use by students of electrical and engineering courses in performing experiments, is shown in the diagram.



Referring to Fig. 1, A represents a pine board 4 in. by 4 in. and a is a circular piece of wood about 1/4 in. square, with three brass strips, b1, b2, b3, held down on it by two terminals, or binding posts, c1, c2, and a common screw, d. Post c1 is connected to d by means of an insulated wire, making them carry the same kind of current (+ in the sketch).

About the center piece H moves a disk, held down by another disk F (Fig. 2), which is fastened through the center piece to the wooden base, A, by means of two wood screws. On the disk G are two brass strips, e1 and e2, so arranged that, when handle K is turned to one side, their one end just slips under the strips b1, b2, or b2, b3, respectively, making contact with them, as shown in Fig. 2, at L, while their other ends slide in two half-circular brass plates f1, f2, held down on disk F by two other terminals, c3, c4, making contact with them as shown at y, Fig. 2.

The action of the switch is shown in Fig. 1. Connect terminal c1 to the carbon of a battery, and c2 to the zinc. Then, if you turn handle K to the right, so that the strips e1 and e2 touch b1 and b2, respectively, terminal c3 will show +, and c1 — electricity; vice versa, if you turn the handle to the left so that e1 and e2 touch b2 and b3, respectively, terminal c3 will show - , and c4 + electricity.

The switch is easy to make and of very neat appearance.



** How to Receive Wireless Telegraph Messages with a Telephone [92]

Any telephone having carbon in the transmitter (all ordinary telephones have carbon transmitters) can be used to receive wireless messages by simply making a few changes in the connections and providing a suitable antenna. Connect the transmitter and receiver in series with three dry cells and run one wire from the transmitter to the antenna. Connect the other transmitter wire to a water or gas pipe in order to ground it, and then hold the receiver to your ear. Any wireless telegraph message within a radius of one mile will cause the transmitter to act as a coherer, thus making the message audible in the receiver.

By using an ordinary telephone transmitter and receiver and a 1/2-in. jump spark coil, a complete wireless telegraph station may be made, which will send or receive messages for a radius of one mile. The accompanying wiring diagram shows how to make the connections. By putting in an extra switch three of the sending batteries may be switched in when receiving,



thus obviating the necessity of an extra set of batteries. —Contributed by A. E. Joerin.



** Connecting Up Batteries to Give Any Voltage [93]

Referring to the illustration: A is a five-point switch (may be homemade) ; B is a one-point switch, and C and C1 are binding posts. When switch B is closed and A is on No. 1,



you have the current of one battery; when A is on No. 2 you receive the current from two batteries; when on No. 3, from three batteries; when on No. 4, from four batteries, and when on No. 5, from five batteries. More batteries may be connected to each point of switch B.

I have been using the same method for my water rheostat (homemade). I have the jars of water where the batteries are and the current coming in at a and b. —Contributed by Eugene F. Tuttle, Jr., Newark, Ohio.



** A Simple Accelerometer [93]



A simple accelerometer for indicating the increase in speed of a train was described by Mr. A. P. Trotter in a paper read before the Junior Institution of Engineers of Great Britain. The device consists of an ordinary 2-ft. rule, A, with a piece of thread tied to the 22-in. mark, as shown in the sketch, and supporting the small weight, B, which may be a button or other small object.

The device thus arranged, and placed on the windowsill of the car, will indicate the acceleration and retardation as follows: Every 1/2 in. traveled by the thread, over the bent portion of the rule, indicates an increase of or decrease of velocity to the extent of 1 ft. per second for each second. Thus, it the thread moved 2-1/4 in. in a direction opposite to the movement of the train, then the train would be increasing its speed at the rate of 4-1/2 ft. per second.

If the thread is tied at the 17-in. mark, then each half inch will represent the mile per hour increase for each second. Thus if the thread moves 1 in., it shows that the train is gaining 2 miles an hour each second.



** An Egg-Shell Funnel [93]

Bottles having small necks are hard to fill without spilling the liquid. A funnel cannot be used in a small opening, and pouring with a graduate glass requires a steady hand. When you do not have a graduate at hand, a half egg-shell with a small hole pricked in the end will serve better than a funnel. Place the shell in an oven to brown the surface slightly and it will be less brittle and last much longer. —Contributed by Maurice Baudier, New Orleans, La.



** Handy Electric Alarm [94]

An electric alarm which one may turn off from the bed without arising combined with a light which may be turned on and off from a lying position, so one can see the time, is the device of H. E. Redmond, of Burlington, Wis. The alarm clock rests on a shelf, A,



which has a piece of metal, B, fastened in such a position that the metal rod C, soldered to the alarm winder, will complete the circuit and ring the bell. The two-point switch D is closed normally at E, but may be closed at F any time desired, thus turning on the small incandescent light G, which illuminates the face of the clock. When the alarm goes off, the bell will continue to ring until the switch is opened.



** To Keep Dogs and Cats Away from the Garbage-Can [94]

Last summer I was annoyed a great deal by dogs upsetting our garbage can on the lawn, but finally executed a plan that rid the yard of them in one afternoon.

I first secured a magneto out of an old telephone, then drove a spike in a damp place under the porch, attached a wire to the spike and ran the wire to one of the poles of the magneto. Then I set the garbage-can on some blocks of wood, being careful not to have it touch the ground at any point. I next ran a wire from the other pole of the



magneto to the can, wrapping the wire around the can several times. Then I sat down on the porch to wait.

It was not long before a big greyhound came along, putting his forepaws on the top of the can to upset it. At the same instant I gave the magneto a quick turn, which sent the dog away a very surprised animal. This was repeated several times during the afternoon with other dogs, and with the same result. —Contributed by Gordon T. Lane, Crafton, Pa.



** How to Cross a Stream on a Log [94]

When crossing a water course on a fence rail or small log, do not face up or down the stream and walk sideways, for a wetting is the inevitable result. Instead, fix the eye on the opposite shore and walk steadily forward. Then if a mishap comes, you will fall with one leg and arm encircling the bridge. —C. C. S.



** Relay Made from Electric Bell [94]

It is not necessary to remove the adjusting-screw when changing an electric bell into a relay. Simply twist it around as at A and bend the circuit-breaking contact back as shown. It may be necessary to remove the head of the screw, A, to prevent short-circuiting with the armature. —Contributed by A. L. Macey, New York City.



** Foundry Work at Home [95]



** I The Equipment [95]

Many amateur mechanics who require small metal castings in their work would like to make their own castings. This can easily be done at home without going to any great expense, and the variety and usefulness of the articles produced will make the equipment a good investment.

With the easily made devices about to be described, the young mechanic can make his own telegraph keys and sounders, battery zincs, binding posts, engines, cannons, bearings, small machinery parts, models and miniature objects, ornaments of various kinds, and duplicates of all these, and many other interesting and useful articles.

The first thing to make is a molding bench, as shown in Fig. 1. It is possible to make molds without a bench, but it is a mistake to try to do this, as the sand is sure to get on the floor, whence it is soon tracked into the house. The bench will also make the operation of molding much easier and will prove to be a great convenience.

The bench should be made of lumber about 1 in. thick and should be constructed in the form of a trough, as shown. Two cleats, AA, should be nailed to the front and back to support the cross-boards, BE, which in turn support the mold while it is being made. The object of using the cleats and removable cross-boards instead of a stationary shelf is to give access to the sand, C, when it is being prepared.

About one or two cubic feet of fine molding-sand will be required, which may, be purchased at the nearest foundry for a small sum. Yellow sand will be found a little better for the amateur's work than the black sand generally used in most foundries, but if no yellow sand can be obtained the black kind will do. If there is no foundry



near at hand, try using sand from other sources, giving preference to the finest sand and that which clings together in a cake when compressed between the hands. Common lake or river sand is not suitable for the purpose, as it is too coarse and will not make a good mold.

For mixing and preparing the sand a small shovel, D, and a sieve, E, will be required. If desired the sieve may be homemade. Ordinary wire netting such as is used in screen doors, is about the right mesh, and this, nailed to replace the bottom of a box, makes a very good sieve.

The rammer, F, is made of wood, and is wedge-shaped at one end and flat at the other, as shown. In foundries each molder generally uses two rammers, but for the small work which will be described one will be sufficient. An old teaspoon, G, will be found useful in the molding operations and may be hung on the wall or other convenient place when not in use.

The cloth bag, H, which can be made of a knitted stocking, is filled with coal dust; which is used for a parting medium in making the molds. Take a small lump of soft coal and reduce to powder by pounding. Screen out all the coarse pieces and put the remainder in the bag. A slight shake of the bag



over the mold will then cause a cloud of coal-dust to fall on it, thus preventing the two layers of sand from sticking, but this operation will be described more fully later on.

The flask, J, Fig. 1, is shown more clearly in Fig. 2. It is made of wood and is in two halves, the "cope," or upper half, and the "drag," or lower part. A good way to make the flask is to take a box, say 12 in. by 8 in. by 6 in. high, and saw it in half longitudinally, as shown. If the box is not very strong, the corners should be braced with triangular wooden strips, A A, which should be nailed in, previous to sawing. The wooden strips BB are used to hold the sand, which would otherwise slide out of the flask when the two halves of the mold are separated.

The dowels, CC, are a very important part of the flask as upon them depends the matching of the two halves of the mold. A wedge-shaped piece, CC, is nailed to each end of the cope, and the lower pieces, DD, are then nailed on the drag so that they just touch C when the flask is closed. The two halves of the flask will then occupy exactly the same relative position whenever they are put together.

After the flask is done make two boards as shown at K, Fig. 1, a little larger than the outside of the flask. A couple of cleats nailed to each board will make it easier to pick up the mold when it is on the floor.

A cast-iron glue-pot makes a very good crucible for melting the metal, which can be either aluminum, white metal, zinc or any other metal having a low melting-point. This completes the equipment with the exception of one or two simple devices which will now be described.



** II - How to Make a Mold [96]

Having finished making the flask and other equipment, as described, everything will be ready for the operation of molding. It would be well for those who have never had any experience in this line to visit a small brass foundry, where they can watch the molders at work, as it is much easier to learn by observation; but they must not expect to make a good mold at the first trial. The first attempt usually results in the sand dropping out of the cope when it is being lifted from the drag, either because of insufficient ramming around the edges or because the sand is too dry.

A good way to tell when the sand is moist enough is to squeeze it in the hand. If it forms into a cake and shows all the finger-marks, it has a sufficient amount of moisture, but if it crumbles or fails to cake it is too dry. An ordinary watering-pot will be found useful in moistening the sand, but care should be taken not to get it too wet, or the hot metal coming in contact with it when the mold is poured will cause such rapid evaporation that the mold will "boil" and make a poor casting. A little practice in this operation will soon enable the molder to determine the correct amount of moisture.

When molding with sand for the first time it will be necessary to screen it all before using it, in order to remove the lumps, and if water is added, the sand should be thoroughly shoveled until the moisture is evenly distributed. The sand is then ready for molding.

The operation of making a mold is as follows: The lower half of the flask, or "drag," and the pattern to be molded are both placed on the cover board as shown at A. A quantity of sand sufficient to completely cover the pattern is then sifted into the drag, which is then filled level with the top with unscreened sand. This is rammed down slightly with the rammer, and then more sand is added until



it becomes heaped up as shown at B. It is then rammed again as before.

It is impossible to describe just how hard a mold should be rammed, but by observing the results the beginner can tell when a mold is too hard or too soft, and thus judge for himself. If the sand falls out of the flask when lifting the cope, or if it opens up or spreads after it is poured, it shows that the mold has been rammed too little, and if the surface of the sand next to the pattern is cracked it shows that the mold has been rammed too hard. It will be found that the edges of the mold can stand a little more ramming than the middle. In finishing the ramming, pound evenly all over the surface with the blunt end of the rammer.

After ramming, scrape off the surplus sand with a straight-edged stick, as shown at C, and scatter about 1/16 in. of loose sand over the surface for a good bearing. Place another cover board on top, as shown at D, and by grasping with both hands, as shown, turn the drag other side up. Remove the upper cover board and place the upper half of the flask, or "cope," in position, as shown at E.

In order to prevent the two layers of sand sticking together, the surface of the sand at E should be covered with coal-dust. This is done by shaking the coal-dust bag over the flask, after which the dust on the pattern may be removed by blowing. The cope is then filled with sand and rammed in exactly the same manner as in the case of the drag.

After the ramming is done a number of vent holes are made, as shown at F, from the surface of the mold to the pattern, in order to allow the escape of air and steam when the mold is being poured. These vent holes may be made by pushing a wire about the size of a knitting-needle down through the sand until it touches the pattern. The "sprue," or pouring-hole, is next cut, by means of the sprue-cutter shown at the right, which consists of a piece of thin brass or steel tubing about 3/4 in. in diameter.

Now comes the critical part of the molding operation—that of lifting the cope from the drag. It is here that the amateur often becomes discouraged, as the sand is liable to fall out of the cope and spoil the mold; but with a little practice and patience the molder can lift the cope every time without breaking it, as shown at G.

The next operation is that of cutting the gate, which carries the molten metal from the sprue to the opening left by the pattern. This is done with a spoon, a channel being cut about 3/4 in. wide and about 1/4 in. deep. The pattern is then drawn from the mold, as shown at H, by driving a sharp pointed steel rod into the pattern and lifting it from the sand. When a metal pattern is used a thread rod is used, which is screwed into a tapped hole in the pattern. Before drawing it is well to tap the drawing-rod lightly with another and larger rod, striking it in all directions and thus loosening the sand slightly from the pattern. Some molders tap the pattern gently when withdrawing, as shown at H, in order to loosen any sand which has a tendency to stick.

After drawing the pattern, place the cope back on the drag, as shown at J. Place a brick or other flat, heavy object on top of the mold above the pattern, to prevent the pressure of the melted metal separating the two halves of the mold, and then pour.



** III- Melting and Pouring [98]

Having prepared one or more molds, the next operation is that of melting and pouring. An ordinary cast-iron glue-pot makes a good crucible and can be easily handled by a pair of tongs, made out of steel rod, as shown in the sketch. In order to hold the tongs together a small link can be slipped on over the handle, thus holding the crucible securely.

A second piece of steel rod bent in the form of a hook at the end is very useful for supporting the weight of the crucible and prevents spilling the molten metal should the tongs slip off the crucible. The hook is also useful for removing the crucible from the fire, which should be done soon after the metal is entirely melted, in order to prevent overheating. The metal should be poured into the mold in a small stream, to give the air a chance to escape, and should not be poured directly into the center of the opening, as the metal will then strike the bottom hard enough to loosen the sand, thus making a dirty casting.



If, after being poured, the mold sputters and emits large volumes of steam, it shows that the sand is too wet, and the castings in such cases will probably be imperfect and full of holes.

A mold made in the manner previously described may be poured with any desired metal, but a metal which is easily melted will give the least trouble. One of the easiest metals to melt and one which makes very attractive castings is pure tin. Tin melts at a temperature slightly above the melting point of solder, and, although somewhat expensive, the permanent brightness and silver-like appearance of the castings is very desirable. A good "white metal" may be made by mixing 75% tin, 15% lead, 5% zinc and 5% antimony. The object of adding antimony to an alloy is to prevent shrinkage when cooling.

A very economical alloy is made by melting up all the old type-metal, babbitt, battery zincs, white metal and other scrap available, and adding a little antimony if the metal shrinks too much in cooling. If a good furnace is available, aluminum can be melted without any difficulty, although this metal melts at a higher temperature than any of the metals previously mentioned.

In casting zincs for batteries a separate crucible, used only for zinc, is very desirable, as the presence of a very small amount of lead or other impurity will cause the batteries to polarize. A very good way to make the binding posts is to remove the binding posts from worn-out dry batteries and place them in the molds in such a way that the melted zinc will flow around them.

The time required for a casting to solidify varies with the size and shape of the casting, but unless the pattern is a very large one about five minutes will be ample time for it to set. The casting is then dumped out of the mold and the sand brushed off. The gate can be removed with either a cold chisel or a hacksaw, and the casting is then ready for finishing.



** Battery Switch [99]

In cases where batteries are used in series and it is desirable to change the strength and direction of the current frequently, the following device will be found most convenient. In my own case I used four batteries, but any reasonable number may be used. Referring to the figure, it will be seen that by moving the switch A toward the left the current can be reduced from four batteries to none, and then by moving the switch B toward the right the current can be turned on in the opposite



direction to the desired strength. In the various positions of these two switches the current from each individual cell, or from any adjacent pair of cells, may be used in either direction. —Contributed by Harold S. Morton, Minneapolis.



** An Optical Illusion [99]

The engraving shows a perfectly straight boxwood rule laid over a number of turned brass rings of various sizes. Although the effect in the illustration



is less pronounced than it was in reality, it will be noticed that the rule appears to be bent, but sighting along the rule from one end will show that it is perfectly straight.

The brass rings also appear distorted. The portions on one side of the rule do not appear to be a continuation of those on the other, but that they really are can be proved by sighting in the same manner as before. —Contributed by Draughtsman, Chicago.



** New Method of Lifting a Table [99]

To perform this feat effectively the little device illustrated will be required. To make it take a sheet-iron band, A, 3/4 in. wide and attach a strap to fasten on the forearm between the wrist and elbow. Put a sharp needle point, B, through the sheet-iron so that it extends 3/4 in. outward. Make one of these pieces for each arm. In lifting the table first show the hands unprepared to the audience and also a tight table, removing the cover to show that the surface of the table is not prepared in any way. Then replace the table,



rest the hands upon it and at the same time press the needle points in the arm pieces into the wood of the table, which will be sufficient to hold it, says a correspondent of the Sphinx. Then walk down among the audience.



** How to Make a Paddle Boat [100]

A rowboat has several disadvantages. The operation of the oars is both tiresome and uninteresting, and the oarsman is obliged to travel, backward.



By replacing the oars with paddles, as shown in the illustration, the operator can see where he is going and enjoy the exercise much better than with oars. He can easily steer the boat with his feet, by means of a pivoted stick in the bottom of the boat, connected by cords to the rudder.

At the blacksmith shop have a 5/8-in. shaft made, as shown at A, Fig. 2. It will be necessary to furnish a sketch giving all the dimensions of the shaft, which should be designed to suit the dimensions of the boat, taking care that sufficient clearance is allowed, so that the cranks in revolving will not strike the operator's knees. If desired, split-wood handles may be placed on the cranks, to prevent them from rubbing the hands.

The bearings, B, may be made of hardwood, but preferably of iron pipe filled with melted babbitt. If babbitt is used, either thoroughly smoke or chalk the shaft or wrap paper around it to prevent the babbitt sticking. The pieces of pipe may be then fastened to the boat by means of small pipe straps, such as may be obtained at any plumber's at a very small cost.

The hubs, C, should be made of wood, drilled to fit the shaft and mortised out to hold the paddles, D. The covers, E, may be constructed of thin wood or galvanized iron and should be braced by triangular boards, as shown in Fig. 1. If galvanized iron is used, it should be exposed to the weather two or three months before painting, or the paint will come off, spoiling its appearance.



** Peculiar Properties of Ice [100]

Of all the boys who make snowballs probably few know what occurs during the process. Under ordinary conditions water turns to ice when the temperature falls to 32 degrees, but when in motion, or under pressure, much lower temperatures are required to make it a solid. In the same way, ice which is somewhat below the freezing point can be made liquid by applying pressure, and will remain liquid until the pressure is removed, when it will again return to its original state. Snow, being simply finely divided ice, becomes liquid in places when compressed by the hands, and when the pressure is removed the liquid portions solidify and unite all the particles in one mass. In extremely cold weather it is almost impossible to make a snowball, because a greater amount of pressure is then required to make the snow liquid.

This process of melting and freezing under different pressures and a constant temperature is well illustrated by the experiment shown in Figs. 1, 2 and 3. A block of ice, A, Fig. 1, is



supported at each end by boxes BB, and a weight, W, is hung on a wire loop which passes around the ice as shown. The pressure of the wire will then melt the ice and allow the wire to sink down through the ice as shown in Fig. 2. The wire will continue to cut its way through the ice until it passes all the way through the piece, as shown in Fig. 3. This experiment not only illustrates how ice melts under pressure, but also how it solidifies when the pressure is removed, for the block will still be left in one piece after the wire has passed through.

Another peculiar property of ice is its tendency to flow. It may seem strange that ice should flow like water, but the glaciers of Switzerland and other countries are literally rivers of ice. The snow which accumulates on the mountains in vast quantities is turned to ice as a result of the enormous pressure caused by its own weight, and flows through the natural channels it has made in the rock until it reaches the valley below. In flowing through these channels it frequently passes around bends, and when two branches come together the bodies of ice unite the same as water would under the same conditions. The rate of flow is often very slow; sometimes only one or two feet a day, but, no matter how slow the motion may be, the large body of ice has to bend in moving.

This property of ice is hard to illustrate with the substance itself, but may be clearly shown by sealing-wax, which resembles ice in this respect. Any attempt to bend a piece of cold sealing-wax with the hands results in breaking it, but by placing it between books, as shown on page 65, or supporting it in some similar way, it will gradually change from the original shape A, and assume the shape shown at B.



** Return-Call Bell With One Wire [101]



To use only one wire for a return call bell connect up as shown in the diagram, using a closed circuit or gravity battery, B. The current is flowing through both bells all the time, the same as the coils of a telegraph sounder, but is not strong enough to ring both connected in series. Pressing either push button, P, makes a short circuit of that bell and rings the one at the other end of the line. —Contributed by Gordon T. Lane, Crafton, Pa.



** Circuit Breaker for Induction Coils [101]

Amateurs building induction coils are generally bothered by the vibrator contacts blackening, thus giving a high resistance contact, whenever there is any connection made at all. This trouble may be done away with by departing from the old single-contact vibrator and using one with self-cleaning contacts as shown. An old bell magnet is rewound full of No. 26 double cotton-covered wire and is mounted



upon one end of a piece of thin sheet iron 1 in. by 5 in. as per sketch. To the other end of the strip of iron is soldered a piece of brass 1/64 in. by 1/4, in. by 2 in., on each end of which has been soldered a patch of platinum foil 1/4 in. square.

The whole is connected up and mounted on a baseboard as per sketch, the contact posts being of 1/4 in. by 1/2 in. brass, bent into shape and provided with platinum tipped thumb screws. The advantage of this style of an interrupter is that at each stroke there is a wiping effect at the heavy current contact which automatically cleans off any carbon deposit.

In the wiring diagram, A is the circuit breaker; B, the induction coil, and C, the battery. —Contributed by A. G. Ward, Wilkinsburg, Pa.



** Spit Turned by Water Power [102]

Many of the Bulgarian peasants do their cooking in the open air over bonfires. The illustration shows a laborsaving machine in use which enables the cook to go away and leave meat roasting for an hour at a time. The



illustration shows how the spit to which the meat is fastened is constantly turned by means of a slowly moving water wheel. Some of our readers may wish to try the scheme when camping out. The success depends upon a slow current, for a fast-turning wheel will burn the meat.



** A Short-Distance Wireless Telegraph [102]

The accompanying diagrams show a wireless-telegraph system that I have used successfully for signaling a distance of 3,000 ft. The transmitter consists of an induction coil, about the size used for automobiles, a key or push-button for completing the circuit, and five dry batteries. The small single-point switch is left open as shown when sending a message, but when receiving it should be closed in order that the electric waves from the antenna may pass through the coherer. The coherer in this case is simply two electric-light carbons sharpened to a wedge at one end with a needle



connecting the two, as shown. An ordinary telephone receiver is connected in series with the coherer, as shown. To receive messages hold the receiver to the ear and close the switch, and answer by opening the switch and operating the key. —Contributed by Coulson Glick, Indianapolis.



** Automatic Draft-Opener [102]

A simple apparatus that will open the draft of the furnace at any hour desired is illustrated. The parts are: A, furnace; B, draft; C, draft chain; D, pulleys; E, wooden supports; F, vertical lever; G, horizontal lever; H, cord; I, alarm clock; J, weight. K shows where and how the draft is regulated during the day, the automatic



device being used to open it early in the morning. The spool on the alarm clock is fastened to the alarm key by sawing a slit across the top of the spool and gluing it on. When the alarm goes off a cord is wound up on the spool and pulls the horizontal lever up, which releases the vertical lever and allows the weight to pull the draft open. —Contributed by Gordon Davis, Kalamazoo, Mich.



** A Window Conservatory [103]

During the winter months, where house plants are kept in the home, it is always a question how to arrange them so they can get the necessary light without occupying too much room.

The sketch shows how a neat window conservatory may be made at small cost that can be fastened on the house just covering a window, which will provide a fine place for the plants. The frame (Fig. 2) is made of about 2 by 2-in. material framed together as shown in Fig. 3. This frame should be made with the three openings of such a size that a four-paned sash, such as used for a storm window, will fit nicely in them. If the four vertical pieces that are shown in Fig. 2 are dressed to the right angle, then it will be easy to put on the finishing corner boards that hold the sash.



The top, as well as the bottom, is constructed with two small pieces like the rafters, on which is nailed the sheathing boards and then the shingles on top and the finishing boards on the bottom.



** How to Make an Electroscope [103]

An electroscope for detecting electrified bodies may be made out of a piece of note paper, a cork and a needle. Push the needle into the cork, and cut the paper in the shape of a small arrow. Balance the arrow on the needle



as shown in the sketch, and the instrument will then be complete. If a piece of paper is then heated over a lamp or stove and rubbed with a piece of cloth or a small broom, the arrow will turn when the paper is brought near it. —Contributed by Wm. W. Grant, Halifax, N. S., Canada.



** Miniature Electric Lighting [104]

Producing electric light by means of small bulbs that give from one-half to six candle power, and a suitable source of power, is something that will interest the average American boy.

These circular bulbs range from 1/4 to 2 in. in diameter, and cost 27 cents



each complete with base. They are commonly known as miniature battery bulbs, since a battery is the most popular source of power. The 1/2-cp. bulbs are usually 2-1/2 volts and take 1/4 ampere of current. It requires about three medium dry cells to operate it. However, there is now upon the market a battery consisting of 3 small dry cells connected in series, put up in a neat case with 2 binding posts, which sells for 25 cents. This is more economical than dry cells, as it gives about 4 volts and 3 amperes. It will run as large a lamp a 3-1/2 volts, 1 cp., for some time very satisfactorily. More than one lamp can be run by connecting the bulbs in parallel, as indicated by Fig. 1, which shows the special battery with 3 dry cells in the case, and the 2 binding posts for connection with the bulbs. In this case it is also advisable to connect several batteries in parallel also, so as to increase the current, but maintain the voltage constant. Thus the individual cells are in multiple series, i. e., multiples of series of three. By keeping in mind the ampere output of the battery and rating of the lamp, one can regulate the batteries as required. It must be remembered, in this connection, that any battery which is drawn upon for half of its output will last approximately three times as long, as if drawn upon for its total output. Thus, in any system of lamps, it is economical to provide twice as many batteries as necessary. This also supplies a means of still maintaining the candle power when the batteries are partially exhausted, by connecting them in series. However, this must be done with very great caution, as the lights will be burnt out if the voltage is too high.

Persons living in the city will find an economical means of lighting lamps by securing exhausted batteries from any garage, where they are glad to have them taken away. A certain number of these, after a rest, can be connected up in series, and will give the proper voltage.

In conclusion, for battery power: Connecting batteries in series increases the voltage, and slightly cuts down the current or amperage, which is the same as that of one battery; while connecting batteries in parallel increases the amperage, but holds the voltage the same as that of one cell. Thus, if the voltage and amperage of any cell be known, by the proper combination of these, we can secure the required voltage and amperage to light any miniature lamp. And it might be said that dry cells are the best for this purpose, especially those of low internal resistance.



For those having a good water supply there is a more economical means of maintenance, although the first cost is greater. Fig. 2 shows the scheme. A small dynamo driven by a water motor attached to a faucet, generates the power for the lights. The cost of the smallest outfit of the kind is about $3 for the water motor and $4 for the dynamo. This dynamo has an output of 12 watts, and will produce from 18 to 25 cp., according to the water pressure obtainable. It is advisable to install the outfit in the basement, where the water pressure is the greatest, and then lead No. 18 B & S. double insulated wire wherever needed. The dynamo can also be used as a motor,



and is wound for any voltage up to ten. The winding should correspond to the voltage of the lamps which you desire to run. However, if wound for 6 volts, one could run parallel series of two 3-volt, 1-cp. lamps; making, as in Fig. 3, 11 series, or 22 lights. If wound for 10 volts, it would give 1-1/4 amperes and run four 6-cp. lamps. Thus, it will be seen that any candle power lamp can be operated by putting the proper number of lights in each series, and running the series in parallel. So, to secure light by this method, we simply turn on the water, and the water consumption is not so great as might be imagined.

For the party who has electric light in his house there is still an easier solution for the problem of power. If the lighting circuit gives 110 volts he can connect eleven 10-volt lamps in series. These will give 3 cp. each, and the whole set of 11 will take one ampere of current, and cost about the same as a 32-cp. lamp, or 1-1/4 cents per hour. Simply connect the miniature circuit to an Edison plug, and insert in the nearest lamp socket. Any number of different candle power lamps can be used providing each lamp takes the same amount of current, and the sum of their voltages equals the voltage of the circuit used. This arrangement of small lights is used to produce a widely distributed, and diffused light in a room, for display of show cases, and for Christmas trees. Of all these sources of power the two last are the most economical, and the latter of these two has in its favor the small initial cost. These lamps are by no means playthings or experiments, but are as serviceable and practical as the larger lamps. —Contributed by Lindsay Eldridge, Chicago.