PLANTING

Planting is a matter of supreme importance, but the rules for pears and plums are very much the same. Especial care must be taken if the soil is heavy and loaded with moisture. Put the trees on arrival in a trench (see before), and wait until the ground is fit and the soil as fine as possible so that the roots may run freely through it. Get the stakes ready and place them in position before planting. Bind the tree, if tall, at once when planted to the stake by soft willow twigs or other means, taking every care that the bark is not rubbed by the stake. Old cloth or carpet may be used for this purpose, tarred twine or cord being passed round it. Dry stakes well tarred, often last as long as they are needed.

WHAT IS YOUR OBJECT?

What is your object? Before choosing varieties, or planting, it is advisable to ask yourself, what is my object? On the answer the form of plantation and the choice of trees must depend. If for a private house only, the answer is easy. Then comes the question, Is there a wall, and if so, what is the soil and the aspect? Is there an Orchard House? If for market, for what market are you preparing? In the Midlands, the Pershore (= Gisborne's) is a great favourite; in London, the Early Orleans and the Egg Plum; in the North, the Black Diamond, the Wydale and others. In planting damsons the same question should be put. The Midland people won't have the Farleigh Prolific so popular in Kent, and they are right; the Shropshire folks think their damson the best of all and many agree with them. Are you near a jam factory? What plums do they desire or require? Local circumstances and wants should have great weight. If you are near a wood and birds are numerous, you may be wise in not growing greengages, yet otherwise they may be the best sort for a large outlay as the demand for them is universal.

PLUMS FOR A PRIVATE GARDEN

Let us suppose that the soil is fairly good; the choice of trees is not difficult. We have a selection made in 1892 by a committee of the R.H.S., consisting of forty experts, and their choice has been confirmed in a remarkable degree by a report of the trial of plums at the Chiswick Garden of the R.H.S. in 1901. At this trial on a soil that in a good year is said to suit them generally, ninety-five varieties were tested, and a good account was given of the following ten:—

Plums for Eating.

Rivers' Early Transparent Gage.—"Green or greenish yellow, flushed with red, the finest early dessert plum, a good cropper, habit bushy, compact, vigorous."—R.[9] August 21.

Dennistoun's Superb Gage.—"Green and of greengage flavour, a first-rate dessert variety, of exquisite flavour, cropping well as a bush tree in the open air, habit erect, compact, vigorous."—R. August 26.

Jefferson's.—"Fruit larger than the two former, yellow, covered with small red dots, habit erect, compact, very vigorous, the best 'all round' table kind, succeeds in every form."—R. September 6.

In the list of 1892 Belgian Purple was named as a plum for eating, but it is only fit for the table in warm seasons, "dark purple, of medium size, bears well, habit erect, compact, vigorous."—R. August 19.

Plums for Cooking.



Rivers' Early Prolific, a dark purple fruit, rather small but one which comes in early so that it is often first in the market; thus the tree has time to rest and recover before winter. "A very early and valuable cooking plum; of fair quality for dessert, a great and constant bearer." The tree does not thrive everywhere, nor is it very vigorous.—R. July 23.



Rivers' Czar.—"Dark red or purple, of medium size, very good bearer, habit erect, compact, vigorous."—R. August 2.

Victoria, "Fruit large and bright red, very heavy cropper, the most popular plum and best for general purposes."—R. August 22.

Cox's Emperor, or Denbigh, or Denbigh Seedling, "a large dark red of the Orleans type, habit erect, compact, vigorous, a very good free bearing plum that always cooks well."—R. August 22.

Gisborne's (like Pershore), "Fruit deep yellow, rather large, habit erect, compact, vigorous, a great bearer."—Early September.

Rivers' Monarch, "Fruit large, bluish-purple, the best late C. (Cooking) plum, habit rather diffuse and vigorous."—R. September 13.

These ten varieties have borne the test of time, and won approval from the R.H.S. in 1892 and 1901. The descriptions are those of the R.H.S. Mr Lewis Castle omits Cox's Emperor and adds;—

Early Orleans, "medium size, reddish purple, good bearer and good C. variety, habit diffuse and moderately vigorous."—R. August 2.

Greengage.—If this is planted, choose July greengage, "rather large for a greengage, habit erect, compact, vigorous, better bearer than old G., fine-flavoured Dessert plum."—R. August 7.

Diamond, "very large, blue-black, very heavy cropper, habit bushy, compact, vigorous, good C. plum."—R. August 23.

Pond's Seedling, "Fruit very large, deep red, habit bushy, compact, vigorous, rather late, free bearing C. plum."—R. September 7.

Prince Englebert, "Rather large, dark purple, habit erect, compact, vigorous, reliable C. plum."—R. August 13.

Coe's Golden Drop, "Fruit large, pale yellow, habit bushy, compact, vigorous, a delicious late D. plum, an indifferent bearer on bush trees, most reliable on walls."—R. September 13.

These remarks are based on the Report of trials at Chiswick in 1901.

If one plum only is wanted, choose Victoria, if three, Early Prolific, Victoria and Monarch; to these Dennistoun's Superb and Jefferson might be added for dessert if five are desired.

All these varieties may be planted as Standards, but are better as half-standards or bushes. If as cordons they must be two feet or more apart, and lifted about once in three years. There is no dwarfing plum stock like the paradise for apples or the quince for pears.

If the dessert varieties are on walls, special attention must be given to pruning and to root-pruning. The growth of coarse thick stems and branches is often fatal to the prospect of good crops.

PRUNING AND TRAINING

Plums as a rule do not need nor will they bear as much close pruning as pears and apples. But they need special attention in early life.

STANDARDS.—These must be planted, when other crops are to be grown beneath. Quincunx fashion is the best. The rows, as a rule, should be 24 feet apart, and the trees in each row about 20 feet. Plums do not shade as much as apples and pears, yet it is always wise to avoid overcrowding. Some sorts are not as spreading or as vigorous as others. Weak growers like the Early Prolific might be placed between Jefferson and Monarch. Good trees in six or seven years should bring good returns, but the intermediate space may meanwhile be utilised for strawberries, gooseberries, and so on. Standards should be 6 feet high or more. After planting, cut back the shoots to about one-third of their length, the weakest still more, to promote vigorous growth, and cut just above an outer eye. Keep the centre open. In later years stop gross or robber shoots in June, clipping some leaves of the latter, if necessary. Never allow boughs to cross, and keep all the tree fairly open. When the tree begins to bear, little pruning is necessary. But stopping luxuriant shoots about midsummer is good for the other branches, and for the production of fruit buds before winter. Complete pruning early in August. In winter cut out dead wood, and shorten boughs wherever fresh wood is required. The wood of the Victoria plum is very brittle, and requires special treatment. Shorten the strong growing luxuriant branches of this variety in July; otherwise later on they will break when loaded with fruit. Messrs Bunyard's choice of six for market standards is: Rivers' Early Prolific, Czar, Early Orleans, Victoria, Pond's Seedling, Rivers' Monarch.

HALF STANDARDS (3-1/2 feet to 4 feet high) are better, and more manageable. Planted 12 feet apart, gooseberries, etc., may be placed around them; otherwise they may be nearer, even up to 6 or 8 feet. These should be pruned in August unless strong shoots require pinching back. Stop new side shoots at the sixth leaf to produce fruit-buds. Avoid excess. Wounds made in August have a better chance of healing while the sap is still active. Pyramids are not as useful as bushes; the former require a central stem and special training.

IN BUSHES, keep the tree open, stop strong shoots at midsummer, prune new (side) shoots back to six leaves about mid-August, and take out wood that is not wanted, admitting the sun and air. In winter cut back any boughs where fresh shoots are wanted to a wood bud at an outer eye.

TREES ON WALLS.—Plums are usually put on east walls, but the best repay a south as well as a west aspect. They require and repay care and skill in training. If the wall is low, the horizontal form is best. The branches should be taken several inches below the line along which they are to be trained, and not at right angles; the sap will flow better, and the tendency of branches to die off will be lessened. The first branch should be 1 foot from the ground, the rest 9 inches apart. Coarse stems and branches must be avoided by moderate root-pruning. The wood must be kept near the wall, that wood and fruit may be better ripened. The fan system is better for a high wall. Train shoots on the tree from the nursery in regular order at equal intervals, cutting back only to ripe wood. Pick off growths on the side next the wall, and others badly placed. Lay in new wood every year, and in August or Early September cut out unsightly branches or spurs if there is other wood to replace them. Prune upper part of tree first, and encourage foliage and fruit spurs over every part. Stop strong growing branches at midsummer, and pinch back side shoots to six leaves about mid-August. Fruit buds will follow. Wire on the wall should be 1-1/2 inch out, with an interval of 1 foot between each wire.

MANURES

The absence of moisture and the consequent exhaustion have a serious effect on plums, and should never be allowed. Mulch newly-planted trees in light or poor soil; give liquid manure or irrigate in dry weather. Should the crops be heavy, and the soil at all deficient in lime, the deficiency should be made up by scattering lime some distance around the stems and working it gently in. "An annual dressing of decayed vegetable matter, old manure and lime-rubbish, laid about a yard round the stems, produces very satisfactory results" ("Plums for profit"). Supply this in November. The artificials recommended by R.H.S. for pears are also good for plums. Dr Griffiths recommends cow dung and a mixed manure, composed of 5 parts of kainit, 1 part of magnesium sulphate, 2 parts of superphosphate; 7 lbs. of the mixture to be applied to each tree in autumn, two more pounds in the spring.

Established trees in full health need no aid in an ordinary season if they carry no crop. Damsons should be fed as well as plums.

THINNING

must be carried out severely if the crop is thick. In a good plum season, only very fine and first-rate fruits fetch a good price, and these can only be obtained by thinning the fruit and feeding the trees. An annual crop (if frost does not interfere) may then be expected. Half the crop in some years should be taken off long before the fruit is ripe. The jam-makers utilise green and half-ripe plums.

GAGES

These are dessert plums, some of the highest excellence, but they usually require a wall or the best soil and situation. The demand for them is very great. Preserved with proper care, they last until plums come again, and often fetch a higher price than the red or dark plums.

The following are the five best:—

1. July Greengage (see before) early in August.

2. Dennistoun's Superb (see before) mid-August.

3. Early Transparent (see before) end of August.

4. Reine Claude Comte d'Althann, briefly Comte d'Althann, a comparatively new plum from Bohemia. First-class certificate R.H.S. "Medium to large, greyish green, deeply flushed and dotted with red, covered with a beautiful white bloom, very heavy crop, habit bushy, compact, vigorous, remarkably good dessert plum, succeeding equally well as a wall tree, bush, or standard, remarkably prolific." R.H.S., R. August 22.

5. Jefferson (see before).

6. If more are wanted M'Laughlin's Gage is "rather large, pale yellow, flushed with red, a good cropper, habit erect, compact, vigorous, one of the finest dessert plums." R. August 17.

7. Guthrie's Late Green, "very good cropper, habit bushy, compact, vigorous, a most delicious dessert plum." R. August 30.

Nos. 2, 5 and 6 are splendid specimens of American plums, No. 7 is Scotch, named after the late Mr Guthrie of Dundee.

The following are well known but not so good in some respects: Bryanston Gage, Oullin's Golden Gage, Golden Transparent. Coe's Golden Drop has been described. Angelina Burdett is sometimes classed with the gages. It is "dark red, shaded with purple, a good cropper, habit bushy and compact, a delicious dessert variety that hangs well in the trees for some time after it is ripe." R. August 22.

MARKET PLUMS

If a planter prefers to grow gages, he must protect his trees from bullfinches and other birds. The former often carry off the buds in winter, and ruin all hopes of a crop. Such a plantation near a wood would usually be a failure. If the trees are washed in early winter with No. II. mixture, the buds will have some protection. Lime should be thrown over the branches on a damp day. The gun in many cases must be at work from dawn to dusk. The gardener must learn to distinguish between friend and foe. Mr Lea's list in "Small Farms in the Midlands" is as follows: Early Prolific, Victoria, Black Diamond ("the wood is remarkably tough"), Pond's Seedling ("tolerably tough"), Pershore Egg Plum, i.e. Gisborne ("hardiest of all plums, surest cropper, comes early into bearing, the wood tough, and though the price is low, pays well"). He also mentions Prince Englebert and Jemmy Moore ("alias Cox's Emperor, alias Denbigh"), but wisely adds, these come in about the same time as Victoria, when there is a glut. Early or late varieties usually sell best. A new variety, Bittern, raised (as so many varieties have been) at Sawbridgeworth, by the late Francis Rivers, seems well worth trying: "Fruit rather large, deep purple, very heavy crop, habit bushy, compact, vigorous, excellent early free-bearing variety. R. August 2."

Curlew is another "early free-cropping purple plum, habit erect, vigorous," also raised by Francis Rivers. Monarch is a late, good, and very saleable plum. It is said that 75 per cent. or more of the plums planted in recent years have been Victorias. Planters should avoid the Victoria glut. Pond's Seedling, red and very large, coming in after Victoria, often sells well. Put up in a small basket it is inviting, and sells for an eating though properly a cooking plum. Early Prolific is also largely planted, but does not suit all soils. The white Magnum Bonum or egg plum (very large), good for cooking and preserving, sells well in London, but needs a strong soil. It is an early September fruit. Wyedale is popular in Yorkshire, valuable for its lateness, and for keeping sound on the trees when ripe; its habit is diffuse, size rather small, a good cropper. Mr Pearson names Goliath, a large reddish purple plum, "a good cropper, habit diffuse and vigorous, a very useful cooking plum. R. September 7."

At the Plum Congress held at Edinburgh in September 1889 an election of sorts was made with the following result:—

Dessert Plums Votes. Jefferson 72 Coe's Golden Drop 69 Green Gage 57 Kirke's 57 Early Transparent 25 Oullin's Golden Gage 16 Reine Claude de Bavay 14

Culinary Votes. Victoria 74 Pond's Seedling 54 White Magnum Bonum 52 Early Prolific 40 Goliath 31 Early Orleans 27

The friend who sent me this list remarks: "Newer plums supersede some of these. Czar does not crack with the wet as Orleans does. I prefer Diamond to Goliath." Kirke's is better on a wall than in the open. The same may be said of Oullin's; neither are grand croppers. Reine Claude de Bavay is a late gage, richly flavoured, but not a good cropper.

GATHERING, PACKING, MARKETING

A step ladder or a Heathman's combined ladder is best for gathering as plum wood is often brittle. Look over the trees several times and gather gradually. Fruit for home use should not be gathered until it is ripe, but for market it should not be quite ripe. Early morning when the fruit is cool is the best time. Dessert fruits generally should be handled as little as possible, otherwise the bloom on them and the appearance are spoilt. Plums are often sent away in round baskets, or oblong flat baskets. The former in the London markets are termed sieves or half-sieves. A sieve holds seven imperial gallons; the diameter is 15 inches, the depth 8 inches. Flat baskets with lids protect the fruit from injury. Stout and strong paper, above, below and around, assist in saving it. Oblong baskets with handles and without a lid are used in the Midlands and the N. They are called "pots," and local inquiry as to weight should be made. Strong brown paper is useful on the top. The cost per ream is from 10s. to 20s. But non-returnable boxes are better. The baskets are often missing or lost. The sizes of unplaned boxes with lids to be nailed on are usually as follows:—[10]

Gross. Doz. lbs. Length. Width. Depth. s. d. s. d. 14 10-3/4 in. 10-1/2 in. 6-1/4 in. 26 6 2 6 28 22 " 10-3/4 " 6-1/4 " 46 0 4 2 42 27 " 15 " 8 " 84 0 7 6

—GLOVER.

Choice dessert plums sent in light boxes (one or two layers only in a box) placed in wood-wool, and with tissue paper covering the inside of the box, and lying between each layer, often sell well. White paper-lace (such as is used for honey sections) sets off good fruit, and makes it more attractive. Pink tissue paper is often used for light fruits. The boxes should be uniform in size and quality of fruit as far as possible. Tissue paper can be bought at 2s. 6d. to 5s. or more a ream, and should not be grudged. The best wood-wool ranges from 18s. to 25s. per cwt. A few visits to Covent Garden, the best shops, and the Crystal Palace Fruit Shows, will not be time or labour lost.

Plums and damsons for market should be gathered and sent before they are quite ripe; if soft and pulpy on arrival, they are valueless. Sort in size and quality as even as possible: keep back all inferior stuff. Only good produce, well sorted and properly packed, placed on the market in good condition, is likely to sell well. Foreigners as well as neighbours compete for custom. In large establishments a packing room with every convenience close at hand is necessary.[11] The market-agent should daily advise what goods are needed.

STORING AND KEEPING

Plums, as a rule, do not remain good for any length of time after being gathered. They will however last a week or two if laid out in a cool, dark, well constructed place. Slate slabs assist to keep baskets and fruit cool. Some of the late dessert varieties gathered before they are quite ripe, wrapped in paper, will last in a dry place for a long period. Dr Hogg says that "Ickworth Imperatrice," a large late dessert variety, if allowed to remain on the tree until it shrivels, then wrapt in silk paper and placed in a dry shelf, will last for many weeks. It is a richly-flavoured plum. The remark is probably true of other late varieties; e.g., the lovely Golden Transparent, "a delicious plum grown against a wall, but not a success in the open" (R. September 12), or Reine Claude de Bavay, which is late, but a poor bearer. The Ickworth Imperatrice was not tested by the R.H.S., and is not now often grown. Guthrie's late Green, "a most delicious dessert plum and the heaviest cropper here (i.e. Chiswick R.H.S.) of all the gages," is probably one of the best sorts for keeping as described above. Angelina Burdett (see gages) "if allowed to hang till it shrivels becomes a perfect sweetmeat" (Hogg).

INSECT ENEMIES

1. APHIDES are often a great trouble. There are three sorts or more, one called the plum aphis. They attack in spring and cause the leaves to curl up, and so check growth. Steep 4 ozs. of quassia chips in a gallon of soft water for twenty-four hours. Dissolve 2 ozs. of soft soap in this mixture, and add to the infusion. Apply by a painter's brush, and carefully wash the under side of the leaves (Rivers). On a larger scale: "Boil 1 lb. of chips in a gallon of water for twenty minutes, strain off the chips and add 38 gallons of water. Put 1 lb. of soft soap in a gallon of water until dissolved, then add to the rest. Apply by a syringe or sprayer. Where the foliage is young follow the spraying by syringing half-an-hour afterwards" (Castle). Tobacco water made as follows is also a good remedy: "Pour soft boiling water at the rate 1 gallon to 2 ozs. of the strongest shag tobacco, allow it to stand till cool. Its efficacy is increased by dissolving 2 ozs. of soft soap in each gallon at the time it is poured on the tobacco" (Wright). This mixture may be applied with some force by the garden engine. The great point is to syringe or paint with one of these remedies as soon as the evil is perceived.

2. RED GRUB is often very injurious. The moth measures about 1/2 inch across, the caterpillars are pale red, with brown neck and black head. They pierce and drop with the fruit, seek shelter in the bark, where they spin a cocoon and pass the winter. If the trees have been scraped, then washed with a mixture of lime and soot, paraffin and grease (see No. III. pears), or sprayed before the buds open with Bordeaux mixture (see No. II.), and also afterwards, they probably will not suffer. Lime and soot scattered over the ground under the trees will also be useful. If the plums are attacked, collect all fallen fruits and shake the trees every morning, burn the fruits affected or give them to the pigs.

3. The PLUM SAWFLY also attacks the fruit, laying an egg in the calyx of each flower. The grub is whitish, with brown head. It enters the fruits, feeds on the stone, and causes them to drop. A spraying of the modified mixture No. II. after the fruit has set would be useful, but as the grub pupates in the soil, lime and soot will again be serviceable. Collect and destroy fallen fruit daily.

4. RED SPIDER, a spinning mite, is a great pest in dry summers. It must be checked by the free use of the syringe or water engine as soon as seen. Yellow spots on the leaves are a proof of its presence. Mix 4 gallons of soft soap solution with 1/2 lb. of flowers of sulphur; apply with syringe. Strong soap-suds, or even clear water forcibly given are better than nothing.

FUNGOID ATTACKS injure the trees. The Bordeaux mixture (No. II.) is the best preventive and remedy if there are any signs of fungus. Cut away all diseased twigs, boughs and branches, and burn them. Fungus spores are scattered by the wind and spread the disease. Drench the trunk and bark in winter with this mixture before the buds swell. Care must be taken not to apply the mixture in full strength to tender leaves and buds.

For the fungus mildew, half an ounce of sulphide of potassium mixed in a gallon of water and applied by a syringe is recommended (Wright). Finely-powdered quick-lime mixed with sulphur (double the quantity of the former), and distributed by a special bellows (see before, page 39), is also said to be a good remedy.

ORCHARD HOUSE

For dimensions see under pears. Plums are best in pots or tubs, as they can be taken out when at rest. They are very liable to attacks from aphides, but the insecticide for pears in pots is good also for plums. The house must be fumigated, and the trees syringed on the least appearance of aphis. Place the pots on bricks (v. pears). When growth is being started the temperature should be from 45 deg. at night to 50 deg. by day. Soft or tepid water should be given freely. Fumigate again just before the flowers come out. As the buds increase, raise the temperature 5 deg. to 10 deg. and syringe once or twice a day with tepid water. But a dry atmosphere is important while the trees are in flower. Admit air as well as bees in the forenoon, and pass a camel-hair or light brush over the flowers about the middle of the day. When the fruit is set, syringe at least once a day; if the weather is hot, twice or even three times a day, and give all the air possible. Thin the fruits (if the crop is large) with scissors; mulch and feed with weak liquid manure (see pears). The shoots must be pinched if the trees are of any age, at the fifth or sixth leaf. Not much heat is needed generally, but when the stoning period is passed, the ripening process may be hastened by a higher temperature. The house may be closed at an earlier hour if necessary. Avoid extremes. As the fruits ripen, cease gradually to syringe, but keep the house moist by sprinkling water over the paths, etc. Choose the choicest dessert sorts: Early Transparent, Dennistoun's Superb, July Greengage, Jefferson, Count Althann, Coe's Golden Drop, Guthrie's Late Green, Angelina Burdett, Bryanstone Gage, and Golden Transparent; and if darker colours are desired: Early Prolific, Belgian Purple and Czar. Bryanston Gage was recommended by the R.H.S. in 1892, and is a very richly-flavoured dessert variety, but is not a good cropper in the open, and needs a wall or house.

DAMSONS

are often very valuable, and also make good outside hedges. Bradley's "King of the Damsons" is the best. The fruit is large, the tree "free-cropping, bushy, vigorous, erect." R. September 20. Frogmore Prolific (earlier) is also large and free-bearing. R. September 9. Both these are late. Mirabelle and Rivers' Early Damson are August damsons, small, the former vigorous.

BULLACES

Shepherd's is the best, and hangs late on the tree. A few trees in a large garden are useful. R. September 20.

IMPORTANT POINTS

Good sorts on suitable stocks in good soil and proper aspect; lime in the soil, added or otherwise; winter washing or spraying; thinning fruit; early training; moderate pruning; root-pruning in very strong soils; lifting in shallow soils; liquid and other manures; immediate action if aphides or red spider appear.

DRYING BY EVAPORATION

This important subject cannot be treated here at length. In a hot season with abundant crops, good results may be obtained with some prospect of profit. But the apparatus has been expensive. Mr Udale's Report to the Worcestershire C.C. on dried fruits, vegetables and herbs, with the article in Journal of R.H.S., vol. xxvi., part ii., should be consulted, and "Fruit Preserving," by R.L.C., in Watson, vol. v. Thick-skinned plums, e.g., Czar, Prince Englebert, Diamond and Monarch are best for the purpose. Plums placed on trays, dried in a very slow oven, and allowed to cool several times, are often equal to French prunes.

BOTTLING

This is a simple and most useful process. Plums well bottled will last for years. Gather clean and dry fruit before it is quite ripe, that the heat may not crack the plums. Remove the stalks and pack closely in bottles not over 11 inches high, without bruising, up to shoulder of bottle. Provide a boiler a foot deep; place hay or canvas at the bottom, then put the bottles in the boiler with hay or canvas around them to prevent fracture. Now fill the boiler up to the necks of the bottles, and place it on a slow fire. Heat very gradually until the water is at boiling point. Then take each bottle out with a cloth, fill with boiling water kept close at hand, and cover while boiling with air-tight stoppers. Another method is to fill the bottles nearly full with cold water or thin syrup, and boil for fifteen minutes. Messrs De Luca have received silver and bronze medals from the R.H.S. for self-closing bottles now sold by Messrs Abbott of Southall, near London. Their method is as follows: "Pour in water or cold thin syrup (one tablespoonful of crystalised cane-sugar to the pint) sufficient to cover the fruit. Adjust the indiarubber in the groove made for it on neck of the bottle, place the disc on it, and lightly screw down the outer ring. (Steam must be allowed to escape.) Boil as before for twenty minutes; take out each bottle, and at once screw the outer ring as tightly as possible. Leave bottles until cold. Next day examine by unscrewing the outer ring, and try whether the disc is firmly fastened down. If so, replace the ring, screw down tightly and store away in a cool place, standing them upright. The bottles by having new discs and indiarubber rings may be frequently used."

The Rev. W. Wilks, secretary of the R.H.S., recommends pears, especially Pitmaston D., as suitable for bottling. "Bottled it is delicious." He thinks fifteen minutes from the time the water boils sufficient for plums. Messrs De Luca mention an hour as the time for pears.

Messrs Lee & Co. of 19 Knightrider St., Maidstone, have received medals from the R.H.S. and others for their fruit bottling apparatus and bottled fruit.

They supply a patent economic fruit bottling apparatus at 21s. A thermometer at the side records the temperature of the bottles and of their contents. The following is the method given in the Journal of the R.H.S.

"The fruit must, of course, be fresh and good and the bottles clean. The fruit is first packed into the bottles, which are then filled up to the neck with cold water, or if preferred, with thin syrup made by dissolving 1/2 lb. of loaf-sugar in hot water and leaving it to cool. The bottles are then put into the cooking pot where they must remain for certainly not less than two hours at a temperature of between a minimum of 145 degrees and a maximum of 160 degrees. This low sterilising temperature being maintained for two, three, or four hours will destroy all germs without cooking the fruit, and is the great secret of successful bottling. No actual harm is done by the heat rising above 160 degrees, but if it does the fruit will probably burst, lose its shape, and not look so nice. Vegetables may be preserved in exactly the same way, but they must be done twice over with an interval of twenty-four hours to allow of their becoming quite cold. Jams and fruit jellies can be preserved fresh and good for years in the same way."

Success in bottling and preserving fruit depends chiefly on two points: (1) The destruction of every germ of mildew, etc., by keeping the bottles at a certain temperature for a certain time; (2) the absolute prevention of any possible re-entry of air into the bottles afterwards. The bottles must be hermetically sealed while in the steam or standing in almost boiling water (see Journal R.H.S., vol. xxvi. part iii. p. 365).

BOTTLING OR CANNING IN SYRUP.—This is done by boiling together at the rate of 3 lbs. of cane-sugar to 1 quart of water and the white of 1 egg; pour the fruit whole into the syrup while boiling, and continue to boil together for only a few minutes, then pour into bottles or cans, and stopper or seal air-tight immediately whilst boiling. Pears may be preserved in the same way. Cheal, Journal of R.H.S., vol. xxi. 1.

PLUM JAM makes a rich preserve. Take equal quantities of fruit and cane-sugar; boil quickly half to three-quarters of an hour, then put into hot jars and cover well at once. Exclude the air as much as possible. The colour of the flesh is said to make a difference in the sale. Red jam is usually preferred, but greengage is also popular. Coe's Golden Drop or Autumn Compote (September, hardy, fairly productive, but the fruit often splits) are good for yellow ("Amber"—Dr Hogg) jam; Belle de Septembre (September, "a good late cooking variety," good bearer, but fruit prone to split) for crimson colour. Free-stones are better than cling-stones. The following are free-stones: Bittern, Coe's Late Red ("fruit small, good bearer, a very useful late cooking plum"), Early Orleans, Early Transparent Gage, Old Greengage, Orleans, Oullin's Golden Gage, Red Magnum Bonum, Comte d'Althann, Victoria. The following are nearly so: Early Prolific, Czar, Cox's Emperor, Jefferson.

Belle de Septembre is a cling-stone. Damsons make good jam, the colour being a dark rich red.

PLUM JELLY

Plums are rich in "vegetable jelly." 1. Boil alone for half-an-hour, then strain the juice through a fine sieve or cloth; add 2 lbs. of cane-sugar to each quart of juice, boil again for twenty minutes, pour into jars and glasses, cover at once. A firm, clear and bright jelly should result (Watson).

2. "During the preserving season I generally have a few pots of jelly made from each pan of preserves without spoiling my jams. I make currant, gooseberry, and plum jelly this way.

"For all common preserves I allow 3/4 of a pound of loaf-sugar to each pound of fruit. The sugar must be broken small. Put the fruit and sugar into your pan, let the sugar melt, then boil quickly for twenty to thirty minutes. Skim carefully, take the pan off the fire, take from it three or four cupfuls of juice, or as much as you think can be spared without making your jam dry. Strain the juice through a small gravy sieve into small jars. This will be found to jelly well. In this way a nice stock of jelly can be procured, and no fruit is wasted." (From Weldon's "Menu Cookery Book," 1s., published by Weldon, 31 Southampton Street, Strand.)

FOOTNOTES:

[9] The dates refer to the time when the fruits were "ready" (ripe, fit for gathering) at the Chiswick Garden of the R.H.S.

[10] From Watson, vol. v. p. 369.

[11] For many useful details see Watson, vol. v.



CHERRIES

It is useless to plant cherries unless the fruit can be protected from the birds. The cost of "keeping" a few trees would absorb all profit. In planting for sale, select two or three varieties only; and these should come in together, if possible, to lessen the cost of "keep." They should be intermingled, for reasons already mentioned (see pears, p. 12).

Cherries like a deep, mellow, and rather sandy soil, but they also thrive on a good loam lying on chalk. Stiff moist soils and dry gravelly soils are not suitable. The trees require much moisture, especially sorts with large leaves, such as the Bigarreau and Heart Cherries. Plant varieties to suit the soil. Inquire carefully what sorts do best in your neighbourhood. Cherries do well in open ground, not shaded nor in a valley. They prefer a south aspect, but Morellos thrive on a north wall. Kentish and Late Duke might also be tried there. Plant as you would pears or plums. Protect your trees from rabbits by wire, and from cattle by "cradles," 6 feet high at least,[12] or iron guards. Cattle fed on cake are useful in cherry orchards, and improve the produce.

CHERRIES FOR EATING, recommended by R.H.S. in 1892, are:—

a. DUKES.—(1) May Duke, dark red and early; (2) Archduke (large blackish red), mid-season, both tender-skinned, and so beloved by birds. Both are close growers.

b. YELLOW-FRUITED (i.e. White Heart or Bigarreau).—(1) Elton, very early, good on heavy soil, tree spreading; (2) Kent Bigarreau, early, large, hardy, makes a large tree, best for general crop.

c. BLACK-FRUITED.—(1) Black Eagle, very large, travels well, free grower, mid-season; (2) Early Rivers, first-rate, earliest black, a good cropper and grower.

COOKING CHERRIES.—(1) Kentish, bright red, mid-season, a compact grower, best for jam; (2) Morello, very late, only fit for wall, fence, or bush.

Other good sorts are Governor Wood (mottled red, early) and Black Tartarian, a strong grower, fruit large, late. Florence is very large and late, succeeding the Bigarreau, but requires a warm soil and aspect.

Where there is no wall, Morellos and other sorts should be planted as bushes in a garden 5 or 6 feet apart. They should be covered with nets when the fruit is colouring. Morellos last a long while on a north wall, protected by a net. These are often in great demand, and in a plantation succeed as standards. But the cost of "keeping" for a long time would be excessive.

PRUNING AND TRAINING

Allow the trees to grow a year before pruning them. Then cut back the branches to about 1 foot in length to an outer eye; the Bigarreau to 15 inches. Encourage two shoots from each branch, one at the end, the other 3 inches from the stem, and on the outside. Thus the branches will not grow into each other. Maintain the chief branches at nearly equal length for some years. Standards do not require much pruning. Cut back in summer (July) all shoots crowding the tree or threatening to cross others. In winter look over the trees again. Keep the trees open to sun and air. Cherries on wall should be on the fan system, and pinched back in July. The branches should be 9 inches apart for Duke Cherries, 12 for Bigarreau. If trained horizontally or as espaliers, shorten the shoots on the upper branches a week or two before those on the lower. Keep the shoots near the wall. When sufficient main branches are formed to cover the wall, do not cut back the leaders again. Be sparing with the knife. After two or three years fruit spurs will form, but not much surplus wood. Morellos require special treatment. The fruit is usually found on the wood of the previous year. Train young shoots in to replace the old, and cut out, when the fruit is off, all the old that can be spared. In standards, pyramids and bushes, thin out the branches.



APHIDES are the chief enemy, especially on walls. Syringe with tobacco water made by pouring 1 gallon of soft boiling water on 2 ozs. of strong shag tobacco; add 2 ozs. of soft soap to the water when poured on the tobacco. Strain off and use cold. This solution is also good against the pear slug-worm, which attacks cherries as well as pears. Follow this prescription by a good syringing of cold water the following morning. The roots of cherries are near the surface so that the ground above them must not be dug.

STANDARDS

in strong soil should be 30 feet apart, 24 feet in lighter ground. They are best on grass which is used for pasture. The trees then should be 30 feet from each other. The Kentish Red are sometimes 15 or 18 feet only. Between standards at 24 feet apart bush trees of various kinds may be planted (apples, pears, plums), the two former on dwarfing stocks; there should be two between each standard 8 feet apart.

Ordinary manure is not often given. It may cause rank growth. Dr Griffiths recommends the following artificials: 3 parts weight of kainit, 2 parts of superphosphate, 1 part of nitrate of soda. Three lbs. of this mixture should be applied to each tree shortly before active growth begins. If the land is deficient in lime or chalk some should be given to each tree.

W. C. (in Watson): "Superphosphate of lime, 5 lbs., sulphate of potash, 2 lbs., sulphate of magnesia, 1/2 lb., chloride of soda, 1/2 lb. Apply during mild weather in February at the rate of 4 ozs. to the square yard of border, or the full quantity 8 lbs. to each rod of orchard ground."

Gather fruit dry before it is quite ripe. Cherries are usually sent to market in baskets which contain 24 lbs. nett; very choice fruit in 12 lb. baskets.

The word cherry comes from the old English cheri, chiri, and that probably from the French cerise, that from the Latin cerasus, and that from the Greek kerasos. "Cheri or chiri was a corruption of cheris or chiris, the final s being mistaken for the plural inflection; the same mistake occurs in several other words, notably in pea as shortened from pease, Latin pisum" (Skeat).

FOOTNOTE:

[12] Cradles in Kent are often made of chestnut wood split, and last as long as they are needed. For form see pears, p. 7.



THE MULBERRY

The mulberry is a very handsome tree well worthy of cultivation in a large garden, if only it receives the care and culture which it deserves. Its proper name derived from the Latin through the Anglo-Saxon is Murberry. Mulberry is certainly more euphonious. It is said to be a native of Persia, but it has been known in this country for three centuries and a half at least. It is stated that there are trees still living among us several centuries old. The black mulberry is the one commonly grown in England; the white does better in a warmer clime, and has been largely planted in France and other lands, where the leaves are required for silkworms. The white, however, can be grown in this country. The mulberry will thrive in any good soil, but the ground should not be very wet. It should be placed in a sheltered southern aspect, and is likely to do well in the south rather than the north of England. It is propagated by layers, cuttings and seeds. Trees with good straight stems should be had from the nurserymen, and a few shillings spent in buying a straight, strong tree may save years. Plant in late autumn without manure with the usual care (see planting pears); the roots should not be exposed to frost or cold winds. Brick and lime-rubbish below in a heavy wet soil should be given. In a lighter soil put decayed manure round the tree after planting. In spring fork the soil up lightly, as trees thrive better when the soil is stirred. If you plant early in November under favourable circumstances leave four branches only, and cut these hard back to an outer eye. If you plant late, don't prune until the following winter. The first branches if cut back to three or four inches will probably throw out strong shoots. In August choose four of the best placed and strongest of these, cutting out the rest that those left may grow and the wood be ripened. The tree bears on short-jointed young wood, and on spurs, not on gross shoots. Keep the tree open, especially the middle, removing weak, watery spray, and train the shoots upwards. It will be a pleasure to go under the tree in time and enjoy its shade. The sun and air must have free access if the fruit is to ripen. Sometimes the berries fall prematurely. Drought or want of food may be the cause. Liquid manure in summer as the fruit comes on, and the artificial manures recommended for all fruit trees (see pears) will be helpful. In the winter-pruning, cut out all cross boughs, beginning from below, so as not to tear the bark. Check only branches that are rampant and running away from others. Keep the tree as uniformly round as you can. When the tree has (in four or five years) gained size and fruits well, grass may be grown around the tree, but it should be kept closely mown, especially when the fruit is ripening. All coarse grasses should be spudded out. If the fruit were thinned and the tree well fed, no doubt the berries would be finer. In any case feed well in July. The fruit is not very marketable, as it does not travel well, nor last long. But in cider counties it is sometimes mixed with apples, to make mulberry cider. The trees bear forcing in pots, and give good fruit in July. They will bear a high temperature. The fruit mixed with apples in a tart or pudding is described as "delicious." If it is gathered perfectly dry, it can be used to make a jelly in a similar manner to red currant jelly, and used for light puddings, etc. Mulberry syrup is said to be good for sore throat; mulberry water to be refreshing as a drink in cases of fever, mulberry vinegar to be efficacious for medicinal purposes just as raspberry vinegar, which it somewhat resembles. "Cassell's Dictionary of Cookery" explains these details, and also how to make mulberry preserve.



APPENDIX

THE PROPAGATION OF THE PEAR

It is not proposed to enter into elaborate details with reference to the propagation of the pear, for the general cultivator is far more concerned with and interested in its successful treatment when established than before, for he can now obtain prepared trees so readily and cheaply from nurserymen, who propagate them by the thousand, that it is not at all worth his while to attempt their propagation himself.

Pear trees are propagated either by budding or grafting. The first mentioned process is performed during July and August, and grafting is done in the month of March.

Budding consists in removing a bud from one tree and inserting it under the bark of the stock or branch of another tree. This work is done in the months of July and August, because the bark is during that time more easily raised, and a union more easily effected between the cambium (an inner growing layer) of both bud and stock. The buds inserted are taken from the current year's shoots, choosing shoots that are firm and short-jointed. After having removed a shoot, say nine or ten inches long, and cut the leaves to half their lengths, next proceed to cut out a bud. This is done by inserting a knife below the bud at a distance of about half an inch, and then drawing it upwards behind the bud, emerging again about half an inch above the bud. The cut must, of course, turn inwards—that is to say, towards the centre of the shoot. When removed, the bud therefore will be about an inch long, with the "eye" in the centre, and with a certain amount of wood attached to it behind. This should be removed, and the best way to do it is to insert the point of one's knife just underneath, so as slightly to raise the wood. Then, with the blade of the knife and one's thumb above, it can easily be removed with a slight jerk. Take great care that the root of the bud is not removed also. The stock to be budded should have a T-shaped incision made in the bark. With the ivory handle, which a proper budding knife will have, raise the bark on either side of the longitudinal slit, commencing at the corners just below where it joins the transverse incision. Take great care that the knife handle does not penetrate beneath the inner bark, but press it against the latter, slipping it along. When the bark is sufficiently raised, carefully insert the bud beneath, taking hold of it by the remaining portion of the leaf stalk. It must not be forced down, but introduced as gently as can be, otherwise there will be danger of injuring the vital cambium layer, where the union is effected. Afterwards tie the bud around with matting, to keep it in position and to prevent the entrance of air. Tie both above and below the "eye," leaving this of course free. An excellent indication as to whether or not the bud has taken is afforded by the petiole (leaf stalk). If this, a few weeks afterwards, falls completely away, one may be fairly certain that the bud has taken; if, on the other hand, it withers away, one may be almost equally sure that the operation has not been successful. The buds that have taken will commence to grow in the following spring, and then the stocks must be cut back to within a few inches of where the buds are inserted. Many nurserymen, if they find that the bud has not taken, graft the same stock in the following spring, instead of waiting to bud again in summer.

Grafting consists in so attaching one shoot to another that they unite and grow together. There are many different methods of grafting, but that most usually employed in the grafting of pear trees is tongue or splice grafting. This is done in the month of March, with firm growth of the preceding year. First cut the stock in a sloping direction, and so that the cut may terminate just above a bud if possible. "Great care must be taken that the scions fit the stocks," is the recommendation of one of our large nursery growers of pear trees, and one that should be closely followed. Therefore choose a graft as nearly as possible of the same size as the stock. Having cut the graft to a suitable length, say nine or ten inches, cut the lower end (that is, the thicker one) exactly as the top of the stock was cut, so that when placed together they will properly fit upon each other. The essential point is, of course, to make sure that the inner bark of the one coincides with the inner bark of the other, as then the cambium layers will also coincide. The graft should be carefully and securely tied on to the stock with raffia, and then covered over with either clay or grafting wax, so as effectually to prevent the entrance of air. It is advisable to place moss over the clay, so that in dry weather this can be watered to prevent the clay from becoming dry. Unless there were a covering of some material capable of holding moisture, it would be impossible to keep the clay in anything like a moist condition. When it is seen that the graft commences to grow freely, the clay may be partly removed so as to allow of the ligatures being loosened. It is wise to tie the graft to a stake attached to the stock when the clay is finally removed, as in rough weather it might possibly be broken off.

The above is reprinted from "The Book of the Apple" in the present series of handbooks.



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Transcriber's Note: Some inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in the original document have been preserved. Typographical errors corrected in the text: Page 22 Josephines changed to Josephine Page 24 Cornice changed to Comice Page 28 it's changed to its Page 51 Josephines changed to Josephine Page 54 Marrillat changed to Marillat Page 61 Engelbert changed to Englebert Page 63 Denniston's changed to Dennistoun's

THE END