Clothing was an important factor. The heavy woollen material of the Australian uniforms was unsuitable in a climate where rain was almost unknown and where the daily temperature averaged over 90 deg. in the shade during the whole time of the Battalion's stay. Furthermore, a number of hats had been lost overboard during the voyage from Fremantle. There were no present means of replacing these; meanwhile, men were in daily danger of heat stroke. It was decided, therefore, to clothe all the troops in khaki cotton shorts (trousers reaching only to the knees), linen shirts, and pith helmets. These they wore with the ordinary underclothing and with boots and puttees. This issue was completed within ten days of arrival. It added considerably to the comfort of the individual and the dress in itself was not unattractive. One individual of French extraction refused for some unknown reason to wear the shorts. He was proof against persuasion and eventually had to be removed from the Battalion and given an opportunity for fuller reflection.

Perhaps it was inevitable that the drastic change from the Australian to the Egyptian climate, soil, and conditions of life, should adversely affect the health of the individual. At any rate such turned out to be the case, and for the first ten days after arrival at Abbasia there were some 130 to 150 men out of action each day. The principal causes were an acute form of diarrhoea and tonsilitis. Amongst others were severe colds, septic hands, knees, and feet, ophthalmia, and two or three slight cases of heat stroke. Measles did not re-appear after the landing at Suez, although the camp was placed in quarantine for 14 days and visits to the neighbouring towns were forbidden. After the tenth day the number of cases reporting to the medical officer began to decrease and by the 20th July had dropped to 50, about which figure it remained during the following few weeks. One death occurred—that of Lance-Corporal J. K. Quick, of "B" Company, who succumbed to pneumonia on the 14th August whilst a patient in No. 1 Australian General Hospital.

To assist in the preservation of health everyone was encouraged to lie down during the heat of the day, to keep the hair of the head cut short, make frequent use of the shower baths, and consume no liquor, except such as could be obtained within the camp. Undoubtedly the root cause of many of the ailments was the pollution of the desert soil. One had only to observe the habits of the natives to become aware that the earth of Cairo and its environs was saturated with the filth of ages. This was stirred up by the feet of the infantrymen in training and by the horses going to exercise or water. Horses were numerous about this time. The brigades of Light Horse on Gallipoli had left their mounts behind. These, augmented in August by the 2nd Mounted Division, totalled nearly 10,000, and were cared for in a large Remount Depot established not far from Abbasia Camp. The dust caused by them was at times almost intolerable and the subject of frequent protests by those who soldiered on foot.



The method of dealing with the sick was as follows: A "sick parade" was held daily at the medical officer's tent at 5.30 a.m. and again at 2.30 p.m. All men feeling unwell attended this parade, were examined, and were prescribed for according to their condition. If their symptoms were those of a complaint likely to lay them up, or render them unfit for duty for several days, they would be "evacuated" to a neighbouring hospital and detained there for treatment. Once a man was evacuated he ceased, for all practical purposes, to be a member of the Battalion and came under the control of the medical administration. If he was quickly cured of his complaint he was sent back to his unit. If, on the other hand, his recovery was retarded, he remained for some time in hospital, or in a convalescent depot, and, perhaps, finally returned to Australia either for a change or discharge.

Through sickness, transfers, and one or two other causes, the wastage in the Battalion was considerable. This was partly replaced on the 17th August by a first draft from the reinforcements camped at Zeitun. Lieut. J. Quilty brought over 84 and 54, respectively, from the 1st and 2nd Reinforcements. These were also first class men and were quickly absorbed into the companies.

Factors which affect the conduct and character of a soldier on active service are numerous and all weighty. Amongst them may be mentioned his treatment as regards work, food, pay, recreation and amusement, and mails from home. The first two of these have already been referred to and, after reflection, it cannot reasonably be said that whilst in Egypt he received too much of either. Pay very early became a vexed question. Letters from relatives indicated that the distribution of allotment money and separation allowance was being very imperfectly carried out—resulting in much hardship and consequent anxiety. Although this was eventually straightened out, it unsettled many men and bred a spirit of discontent very difficult to allay and eradicate. The pay of the troops themselves was drastically affected by the issue, in mid-August, of an order limiting the drawing to two-fifths of the daily rate. The exact reasons for this restriction were not given, but it is believed that those responsible desired, firstly, to remove the distinction which existed between the British and Australian rates and, secondly, to encourage thrift and retain for the soldier on his discharge a sum, beyond his deferred pay, which could be spent more wisely in Australia and not go to fill the pockets of the Egyptians. To many this restriction was a genuine hardship, whilst others circumvented it by drawing on their private funds by means of the cable service. This was extensively done, and those who had the wherewithal established a system for regularly receiving remittances from the home land. Payments were made in the local currency—the Egyptian pound of 100 piastres being equal to L1 0s. 6-1/4d. The piastre (sometimes termed "disaster") was worth about 2-1/2d. There was a smaller coin—a millieme—equal to one-tenth of a piastre. English and Australian sovereigns were at first plentiful, but an attempt was made to restrict their circulation, as it was believed that the natives were hoarding them.

Mails arrived from Australia every week or ten days, and were heartily welcomed. Those who received newspapers handed them round for others to read. The Australian proved himself an inveterate letter writer and found much to describe to his relatives and friends. The signallers were rather noted for the amount of work they gave the officer who had to sight their correspondence. They seemed to devote much time to writing and to have a large circle of lady friends. As a rule, the soldier observed the censor's injunctions, and, in doing so, made the work of his officer light. Occasionally a transgression came under notice. In such cases, the letter was either returned to the writer or the offending part struck out. In one instance, the soldier had drawn attention to the harrowing conditions under which he said he was living—working from dawn to dark, with little or no food, and without pay. Questioned as to his reason for this action, he confessed that he was short of money and had intended to so play on the feelings of his friends as to prompt them to send him financial aid.

Censoring letters was a valuable education for an officer. It gave him a deep personal knowledge of the men he commanded and was to lead. It also enabled him to realise that in most situations there were points of view other than his own. He was the better for the knowledge. There were many letters to read. Most had a grave earnest tone running through them. Some were pathetic. Others were humorous and, again, others cleverly descriptive of the passing life and scenes. The trend of thought of some soldiers will be illustrated by the following:—In 1916, whilst assisting to hold the trenches in front of Messines, a member of the Battalion wrote a lengthy and comprehensive criticism of a recent book dealing with the Darwinian theory. About the same time, and from the same place, another member—a brave and sincere man, but a little pharisaical—violated the censorship requirements by criticising the army system generally and his own comrades in particular. His company commander adopted the unusual but effective punishment of reading the letter aloud in the presence of the writer and the fellow members of his platoon. A story is told of a padre of the 5th Brigade who, whilst censoring, discovered that one man had declared his undying devotion to two different girls, and to each had repudiated any allegiance to the other. The censor was so indignant over this act of treachery that he transposed the envelopes of the two letters, before sealing them down.

Of amusements there was no lack. These will be referred to later on. On the whole, therefore, the soldier had little to complain of in the treatment he received, nor did he give the Commanding Officer any cause for anxiety as regards his conduct. Breaches of minor regulations were common enough, but in most cases the offences were venial and such as were likely to be committed by any recruit. Only two cases were remanded for trial by court-martial. Nor were the evils resulting from excessive drinking conspicuously present. Precautions, however, had to be taken to prevent any lowering of the standard which the Battalion was working towards, and in this respect examples had to be made in a few cases where the individual held rank, and in other cases where sickness appeared to be simulated.

One little incident seems to be worth mentioning. A soldier, who had been freely sampling a Reading brew of beer, encountered a certain warrant officer. An exchange of compliments took place, during which the private referred disparagingly to his superior's figure and parentage. On the next day he appeared at "orderly room" and was awarded a brief period of enforced retirement. Declining to walk to the place of detention he was placed on a stretcher, but the stretcher bearers were so inexperienced then that after a journey of about 200 yards he elected to march. On his release, the offender, very contrite and desiring to make the amende honourable, approached the warrant officer and explained that the statement previously made in regard to his figure was entirely without foundation.

Some rioting had occurred a few months previously in Cairo, and overseas soldiers were said to have been concerned in it. A further outbreak was reported during the last week of July, followed on the next evening by a disturbance in Heliopolis. Whatever were the causes of the first two outbreaks, the third was directly traceable to the fact that Cairo was suddenly placed out of bounds when leave men were waiting for trams at the Heliopolis terminus with a view to securing passage to the city. The military police, in attempting to deal with the situation, behaved rather tactlessly, and incurred the resentment of the men, who indulged in some stone-throwing and roughly handled a few individuals. Charges of wholesale looting were laid against the troops, but a court of inquiry, of which the commanding officer was a member, found on close investigation that L50 would cover the whole of the damage done. The claims submitted by the native shopkeepers totalled up to some L3,000. During the early months of the A.I.F's. stay in Egypt, the Military Police, a newly constituted force, incurred the dislike of the bulk of the troops. This dislike engendered an antipathy which endured until the end of the war. In the first instance there appears to have been some reason for it. The police were not selected with sufficient care, and included a number of men whose actions, to say the least, were shady. On several occasions decent and well-behaved members of the Battalion were received from the police cells, bereft of their money, much bruised and battered, and accompanied by a charge sheet accusing them of crimes which one moment's consideration would show they could not have committed. Strong representations on these matters had no immediate effect, but ultimately the Provost Corps was purged of the bad element and became a body of experienced men of great value in the prevention or detection of crime and the regulation of military traffic.

So far as could be learned, the men of the 28th had no part in either of the disturbances. In fact, so uniformly high had been their standard of behaviour that it had come under the notice of Sir John Maxwell, who sent and asked the Battalion to supply picquets for duty in the disturbed area. This action rather raised the resentment of some units and created a certain amount of ill-feeling. So acute did this become that on one occasion the Battalion of its own volition was on the point of "standing to" with entrenching tool handles to repel a threatened raid. However, common sense prevailed and good feeling with the men of the Eastern States was soon re-established, but not before the title "J——'s Own" had been conferred upon the Western Australians.

With the complete mobilisation of the Brigade the number of chaplains in the camp was brought up to four. Services were held in the huts every Sunday morning, attendance at which was compulsory. Dean Brennan identified himself with his flock. The Rev. J. H. Neild, so long as his health endured, was assiduous in his desire to help all who sought his aid. The Presbyterian chaplain, the Rev. W. J. Stevens, had served in the ranks in the South African War. He was very earnest and direct in his addresses. He inclined towards mysticism, and spoke much of the "Angel of Mons." Otherwise he knew men well and was later noted for his activities during the Brigade's stay on Gallipoli. The Anglican chaplain was inclined to dogma. Very early he gave an address, "Why I believe in the Church of England." As no one was interested in the subject he rated his audience for its inattention, and thereafter ceased to exercise any influence amongst its members. In France he recovered some ground and did good work, amongst other things, in the organisation of institutes and coffee stalls behind the lines.

FOOTNOTES:

[E] These troops were commanded by Major-General Sir Alexander Wilson, K.C.B., who was Military Commandant in W.A., 1895-98.

[F] Composition of 7th Australian Infantry Brigade—

Headquarters. 25th Battalion. 26th Battalion. 27th Battalion. 28th Battalion. 2nd Signal Company (No. 3 Section). Brigade Train (No. 17 Coy., A.A.S.C.). 7th Field Ambulance.

Strength:—149 officers, 4,403 other ranks, 529 horses, 8 machine guns, 52 bicycles, 7 carts, and 94 wagons.



CHAPTER IV.

FIRST STAY IN EGYPT.

(continued.)

As has already been stated, the Battalion was quarantined for 14 days after its arrival at Abbasia. To find amusement during that period was a problem. At first the immediate environment produced some distraction. The hawkers and their cries, the arguments between contractors and labourers, the labour gangs at work, the habits of the crowds of scavenging kites, the Yeomanry exercising in the desert, the Egyptian Army recruits drilling in front of their barracks in time to drums beating at 140 a minute, and the circus-like performance of the Arab grooms taking remounts to and from water, all helped to pass an idle hour or two. Occasionally there was a visit from a little party of juvenile acrobats, who gave exhibitions of their prowess in return for "bakshish." One visitor was a youth of about 12—an extraordinary caricature, suffering from ophthalmia and dressed in various ragged and dirty portions of uniform. He laid claim to the name of "Saghen Mechenzi" and had an uncanny knowledge of the rifle, which he handled like a guardsman, and defied all attempts to confound him. Another and more welcome visitor was a youth of French extraction, who sold very fine picture postcards at a reasonable rate and would also undertake commissions for purchases in the city. Victor displayed unexpected traits of honesty and on being questioned thereon replied—"My father is French, he is honest, therefore I am honest." Nothing more could be said.

To relieve the monotony of the period during which no leave could be granted, it was decided to arrange a route march through the city as far as the Citadel walls, halt there for rest and return in the cool of the evening. During the afternoon of Sunday, the 11th July, the Battalion in drill order, and without rifles, set out led by a guide and preceded by Victor mounted importantly on a white donkey. According to the map the total distance to be covered was about ten miles, but owing to detours necessary in order to avoid the narrow streets the Battalion actually traversed some 14 or 15 miles. The heat was considerable, and a number of men fell out on account of the sickness which was very prevalent at this time. However, there was much to be seen. Palaces and hovels, magnificent hotels and humble coffee houses. Strange people and stranger costumes. Weird sights, sounds, and smells. Some streets no wider than our back lanes, teeming with people, filth, and squalor, and every window, doorway, or hole in the wall with something in it for sale. Veiled women and shuttered upper windows in the better class residential quarter hinted romance to those who had read the adventures of the Khalif. A wedding procession, and, again, a funeral procession were passed. The effect of the first was unusual, and the music that accompanied it had a mournful touch not noticeable in the second. The native police along the route were most attentive and cleared the way on every occasion. The traffic was considerable—mostly pedestrian, but with electric tramcars, donkeys, and horse gharris in large numbers. After one or two rests on the way, the Battalion at length came to a halt on an open space under the massive west wall of the Citadel. This place was to become better known later on, but on this occasion curiosity and interest were subordinated to the desire for cool drinks and rest. About an hour later the return march was commenced and camp reached some time after dark.

On the 17th July the quarantine restrictions were removed. A system was instituted whereby 25 per cent. were able to leave camp after evening parade on week days, 12 noon on Saturdays, and 8 a.m. on Sundays. Leave was usually commenced by tours within the city and visits to the Mouski for the purpose of purchasing gifts for the people at home. Here western methods were copied by some of the shopkeepers, and a sign which read—

SUCCOUR SALE, DRAPERIE HIGH LIFE

suggested that bargains might be hoped for. Gharri drives were popular but some men, with humane feeling, were averse to being hauled by a beast almost too poor and degraded to be longer termed a horse and one which, in our own land, would have received the attention of the S.P.C.A. The drivers of these vehicles cleared their way through the pedestrian traffic by cries such as "Ya meenuk" (To the right), "She maluk" (To the left), or "Owar riglak" (Mind your legs), repeated incessantly.

Donkey rides seemed to provide a certain amount of amusement. The beasts were hardy, and it was no uncommon sight to see two or three Australians trying the speed of their mounts down one of the main streets—enthusiastically encouraged by the donkeys' owners. Occasionally donkey and rider were facing in opposite directions. When tired, the soldier could go for rest to the Club established in the open air of the Esbekieh Gardens by the Australian Red Cross Society and Y.M.C.A. Here, comfortable seats, meals, and music could be obtained. Other places were picture theatres, and the "Kursaal" and "Casino" where variety entertainments were given nightly—mostly by French artists. Some very good turns were to be seen at the Kursaal, the popular favourite being a soprano, Mimi Pinson, who could bring the house down by her rendering of "Two Eyes of Grey." At the Casino the audience sat about at tables and consumed cool drinks whilst listening to or watching the performers on the stage. The feminine element predominated here, and there was an air of friendliness about their open glances and conversation at first somewhat bewildering to the unsophisticated. The officers, in their peregrinations, made free use of the large hotels—such as "Shepheard's" or the "Continental," and the various clubs such as the Italian and Ghezirah Sporting Clubs. Shepheard's Hotel had been placed out of bounds to all but officers. Various reasons for this step were suggested. What, however, is believed to have had a good deal to do with it is the fact that during dinner on one occasion a rather stout and pompous senior general, sitting at table with his wife and daughters, was very affectionately greeted, embraced, and kissed by an hilarious youth from the southern seas.



At the commencement of all tours guides were offering freely, and were often required. They were of two kinds. The genuine type was usually a graduate of one of the educational institutions, and would arrange and conduct, more or less satisfactorily, any expedition—were it to visit the Cairo Museum, the Pyramids and other monuments, or to go duck shooting near Alexandria or gazelle hunting in the Fayum. The other type of guide hailed from somewhere at the back of the bazaars; he was loudly importunate, proclaimed himself as named Macpherson, Abdullah, or Johnson, and stated that he was "dinkum." The possibilities with him seemed extensive. Anyone who employed this kind of person, and expected to have a kind of Arabian Nights entertainment, returned richer by his experience but, usually, unless he was very very careful, with the sensations of having just emerged from a garbage pit.

The Australian's interest in Egypt was immense. He had no marked admiration for the existing inhabitants, but his reading had given him an insatiable longing to know more of the ancients and their great works. He let no opportunity, therefore, escape him of viewing and studying the monuments which had withstood the ravages of time for so many centuries. Various expeditions were arranged by bands of friends who, after engaging a dragoman, would often pool their resources in order that the day might be as pleasant as it was instructive. As a rule the first expedition was to the great Pyramids at Gizeh—distant glimpses of which can be obtained from points not far from Abbasia. Situated about eight miles from Cairo, the route to this objective lies through the city, across the Nile bridge, and along the delightful causeway said to have been built by the Khedive Ismail for use by the Empress Eugenie during her visit on the occasion of the opening of the Suez Canal. On arrival at the village, camels and donkeys are used to traverse the stretch of heavy sand which intervenes between the road and the plateau upon which the Pyramids stand.

The Pyramids are three in number, but vary in size. The largest is that of Cheops, the second that of Chephren, and the smallest that of Menkaura. The tomb of Cheops attracts all visitors and, once having been "done," any curiosity in regard to the remainder is, as a rule, entirely lacking. There are two ways of "doing" it. One is to climb up the exterior to the summit, and the other to go inside and visit the King's and Queen's chambers. No ordinary individual has the strength to achieve both in the one day. The visit to the top gives the better result in a magnificent view of Cairo, the Nile, and the surrounding desert, but gaining this involves a climb to a height of 451 feet by means of the several courses of stone, each course being about three feet high; nor is the descent very much easier. To inspect the interior it is necessary to first ascend about 30 feet to the entrance. Here, on the occasion of the Western Australians' visit, were met the guides or caretakers attached to the place. Bedlam instantly broke out. All wanted a job or "bakshish." Some grabbed the soldiers' sticks, others their boots and leggings. After much remonstrance, and an occasional hard knock or kick to some too enthusiastic native, the party, in its stockinged feet, eventually passed within the entrance. The passage was narrow, low, steep, and extremely slippery. With an Arab to each hand—as a precaution against a nasty fall—the soldier, breathing a muggy atmosphere, sweating at every pore, and filled with repulsion at the close proximity of his yelling conductors, made a crab-like and painful progress through darkness over the 220 feet of distance to the King's Chamber. This apartment, viewed by candlelight or a flare now and then from a piece of magnesium wire, does not present, beyond some carvings on the walls, anything of great interest.

After a brief rest the party retraced some of its steps and visited the Queen's Chamber, situated lower down. Here it was necessary to have another breather, and at this stage some Arab evinced a desire to foretell the fortune of anyone who would listen to him and, of course, produce the necessary monetary encouragement. Finally, the open air was regained, perspiration ceased to pour, and with luck it was possible to recover those portions of clothing left behind when entering. Now thoughts were directed to the Pyramids Hotel at Mena—noticed earlier in the day—where, under the shade of trees, tables were set and lunch could be obtained, together with much good and cool English ale. Sometimes the parties had enough energy left to first pay a call on the Sphinx, which is situated about 300 yards distant from the great tomb. Very few thoroughly explored this relic of the ancients, but its great antiquity, alleged by some authorities to date long prior to the creation as fixed by the Christian calendar, and the riddle associated with it, demanded that everyone should at least go and gaze on its face for a little while. Here it was customary to submit to the camera man. Many photographs were thus secured which, when posted, were of great interest to the friends at home.

The next place of interest was the site of the City of Memphis—the ancient capital of Egypt—and its necropolis at Sakkara. Memphis was reached either by train or donkey ride from Cairo, or by a ride of about two hours across from the Pyramids at Gizeh. Of the city itself nothing is left to mark its ancient magnificence except the two giant statues of Rameses II. However, the country between there and Gizeh is one vast cemetery containing the tombs of the notables. The most conspicuous of these is the Step Pyramid—the oldest of such and the resting-place of the body of King Teheser. Less conspicuous, but more interesting to the newcomers, were the Apis Tombs, which contain the sarcophagi of 24 of the Sacred Bulls. These sarcophagi, complete with lids, are of an immense size—each weighing some 65 tons. Near by are the tombs of Ptah-hetep and Ti, in which the rich and well-preserved mural decorations give a very full representation of the life and habits of the inhabitants of the city in their time. Other interesting remains, some Greek and some Roman, were also to be seen, but by this time the average Australian had had enough for one day, and turned to the means of getting back to the more congenial surroundings of the modern city or camp.



Having seen so many of the tombs, parties took an especial interest in the Cairo Museum, wherein they inspected wonderful statuary; mummies of men, women, cats, dogs, monkeys, and crocodiles; also coffins and other relics going back in origin, some of them, to a period nearly 4,000 B.C. The jewellery, said at one time to have been worn by Queen Cleopatra, attracted much attention, as did also specimens of boomerangs—a weapon which almost every Australian had thought was peculiar to his own country.

Time did not permit of visits up the Nile to the ruins at Luxor, Thebes, Philae, and Karnak, so the programme of viewing ancient remains had to be somewhat restricted. Consequently little was now left to do except to visit Mataria (about four miles north of the camp), view the Tree and Well associated with the Flight out of Egypt, and then proceed to the obelisk near by, which marks the site of the old Heliopolis—the City of the Sun.

Other and more modern buildings and structures, connected with the early Christians and the Saracens, are plentiful in Cairo, and to these the visitors now turned. Chief amongst them is the Citadel, the erection of which Saladin began in A.D. 1166. From its walls a fine view of the city and its environs can be obtained. To the south the Aqueduct built by the Saracens comes under observation; and near by, on the east side, the Moqattam Hills—scarred by quarries and surmounted by a fort from which Napoleon silenced the guns of the Citadel. Within Saladin's walls are to be seen Joseph's Well—some 300 feet deep; the costly mosque of Mehemet Ali with its dome and twin minarets; two or three smaller and older mosques; and, on the wall, the hoof print of the escaping Mameluke's horse.

Opposite to the main entrance to the Citadel, and without the walls, are two mosques of unusual size. One, the mosque of the Sultan Hassan—noted amongst other things for its wonderful arches, doors inlaid with gold, and a cannon ball still sticking in the wall facing the hills which bear Napoleon's fort; the other containing the tombs of the Khedivial family and distinguished by the richness of the decorations and inlay of sandalwood, ebony, silver, and ivory.

Mosques and shrines in Cairo number nearly 500. There is plenty to see in this respect, but after a few of the principal ones, including the Blue Mosque of Ibrahim Agha, had been inspected, and similar calls paid on some of the old Coptic churches, interest waned and the soldier, looking for a change, sometimes turned to the Roman and Arab remains in Old Cairo and Fustat, or else visited the Tombs of the Khalifs and Mamelukes on the edge of the desert. Here he was, perhaps, successful in obtaining genuine souvenirs of the "Dead City."



Apart from short trips on the Nile, per steam dahabiyehs, two other excursions must be mentioned. One was to the Island of Roda to view the spot where the infant Moses is alleged to have been found by the Pharoah's daughter; and the other by tram or gharri along the Mena Road to the Zoological Gardens. This institution is said to have been one of the many extravagances of the Khedive Ismail. The visitors greatly admired the grounds and also the fine collection of the larger African animals.

Driving back in the evening from the Gardens, the soldier was able to see Cairo taking the air under the shade of the lebbok trees and observe the wealthy and official classes in their carriages and motors. He was not slow to notice the arrogant air of the Egyptian male aristocracy, accompanied as they often were by rather fleshy ladies of foreign origin. Nor did he fail to feel impressed by the neat and wholesome appearance of the few British ladies who took exercise on this highway.

With the exception of two days at the beginning of August, when Cairo was placed out of bounds owing to the rioting, and the 12th to 14th August, when the Festival of Bairam was being observed, sight-seeing went on at leave periods during the whole of the Battalion's stay in Egypt.

On the 16th August the Battalion, when carrying out a night operation in the desert, was recalled to camp and ordered to proceed the following morning to garrison the Citadel. At 7.30 a.m. on the 17th August the 28th, leaving the transport behind under a small guard, commenced the march to its new home which, after a trying time in the heat, was reached in due course and quarters found in the various blocks of barracks. These quarters, it was discovered, were alive with vermin, necessitating the whole Battalion being set to work for several hours in an attempt to clean the place. Iron bedsteads and palliasses were available for the use of the troops, but as the palliasses also showed signs of life very few were used. After Gallipoli was reached an account for 40 of these iron bedsteads, which the unit, it was inferred, had taken with it or disposed of in some other unlawful manner, was received from the British authorities. Needless to say it has not yet been paid.

The C.O. was, for the time being, the Commandant of the fortress which was the home of the ordnance stores and reserve of ammunition of the Army of Occupation. Besides the British and Egyptian staffs to work these, there were other troops within the walls. These included details of the 2nd Mounted Division, recently embarked for the Peninsula; British and Indian General Hospitals (both full); a hospital for convalescents; a detention barracks; and about 40 Turkish Officers under guard as prisoners of war. Amongst these prisoners was a major, a nephew of the Senussi, who had been visiting Constantinople at the outbreak of war and found himself immediately requisitioned for a tour through Arabia for the purpose of promoting a holy war against the English. Himself an Arab, who had always looked upon Great Britain with friendly eyes, he undertook the mission rather unwillingly. In course of time he joined Djemal Pasha's army approaching the Canal and was finally captured by its defenders.

Owing to the large numbers of men required for special duties, all training, except that for the section, platoon, and company, had to cease. What little was done was carried out in the barrack yards or else, in the early morning, on the top of the adjacent Moqattam Hills, which was reached by a kind of causeway running up through the quarries. The duties consisted of providing guards and sentries for the various gates of the Citadel; guards on some of the hospitals and detention barracks; and patrols which had the unpleasant duty of traversing the highways of the city for the purpose of preserving order and looking after the interests of the army and the men on leave.

Existing orders did not permit any civilian to enter the gates of the Citadel unless provided with an official pass. The enforcement of this order caused some dismay amongst the women from the neighbouring houses who had been in the habit of visiting the Citadel stables for the purpose of obtaining material for the manufacture of fuel, which was a scarce commodity with them. The ladies' method of explaining their mission was clear, if not delicate, and brought a blush to the faces of the sentries on the Moqattam Gate.

The Warrant and Non-commissioned Officers had a good mess, which was presided over by the Regimental Sergeant-Major. The Officers joined and took over control of the Garrison Officers' Mess—very well and cheaply run. Here many pleasant acquaintances were made and a good deal learned in regard to the organisation and working of the British units.

Short leave was still granted liberally to those desiring it, but numbers found sufficient attraction in or near the Citadel to pass away many hours. The views from the walls, or from the tops of the old towers, the mosques, the well and its echo, the remains of Saladin's palace, the Church of England chapel (established in the bathroom of a former Sultan's harem), where service was frequently held, all received much attention. Occasional trips by souvenir hunters were made to the adjacent "Dead City." These were sometimes fruitful, for in one barrack room an ancient skull was observed reposing on a shelf above an inmate's bed.

Now and then concerts were given for the benefit of the hospital patients, and an invitation for members of the Battalion to attend was received.



On Sunday, 29th August, a visit was received from a party of Western Australians who were friends and relatives of some members of the 28th, and were making a short stay in Egypt. The party included the Rev. E. M. Collick, Archdeacon of Kalgoorlie; Mrs. Campbell Wilson; Mrs. and Miss Montgomery; and Mrs. Makeham.

About the middle of August news of the heavy fighting, which had been going on at the Dardanelles, began to dribble through. It was gathered that the results had not been entirely such as could have been hoped for, and that the casualties—particularly of the 10th Light Horse, the 11th and 16th Battalions—had been heavy. Information was also received of a disaster to the Yeomanry on the 21st August.

Hospital trains began to arrive and discharge large numbers of wounded into the hospitals. From the less seriously injured some idea of the last advance was obtained, and it seemed evident that the 2nd Australian Division would soon be called upon to play its part. In the third week of the month the 5th Brigade marched off en route to the front, and was followed a few days later by the 6th Brigade.

These indications caused some stir in the Battalion and, although definite orders had not been received, preparations for another move were commenced.

On the 24th August were issued the colour patches which were to be worn sewn on to the upper part of each sleeve of the jacket. In the case of the 2nd Division the patch was diamond in shape. The 7th Brigade colour was a light blue and the Battalion colour white. The "28th" therefore wore a blue and white diamond, and by this badge was ever afterwards distinguished.

About this time a slight change was made in the Battalion Staff. W.O. J. Gettingby was promoted to be Quartermaster and Hon. Lieutenant. His position as R.S.M. was filled by C.S.M. P. T. C. Bell.

On the 28th August orders were received that the Battalion would be relieved on the following Monday and march out to camp. On the 30th August the 5th Australian Training Battalion, commanded by Major J. S. Lazarus, took over the garrison duties and the 28th, after being photographed in mass formation, moved by way of the desert road, through the Tombs of the Khalifs and Abbasia, to Aerodrome Camp, recently vacated by the 5th Brigade. Only tents were available here, and the camp was very dusty. As the tenancy was likely to be of a few days duration only, these inconveniences were submitted to with a good grace.

Wheeled transport and riding horses could not, at that stage, be either safely or profitably used on Gallipoli, so to the bitter disappointment of Lieut. Graham and his section, the Divisional Commander ordered that they be left behind—later on to be grouped with the rest of the Divisional Train, exercised, and held in readiness against being required.

On the 1st September a message from Brigade Headquarters directed that the Battalion would proceed "overseas" on the 3rd September. All surplus stores were at once got rid of, and spare baggage collected to be handed over to the care of the Australian Base. The Regimental Orderly-room Clerk, Staff Sergeant S. S. Thompson, was detailed and departed for duty at the Australian Headquarters in Egypt, where he would be responsible for the proper keeping of Battalion records.

The 2nd September witnessed the departure for Alexandria of a small advance party, under Lieut. H. E. C. Ruddock, charged with the duty of making all necessary arrangements for the reception of the troops when arriving at the wharf. Tents were struck that afternoon and a bivouac formed for the night.

After the evening meal on the following day the Battalion fell in, and a check of the personnel was made. Previously a number of sick, and the few men in detention, had been struck off the strength and shown as transferred to the Training Depot. It was now found that three or four men were missing. As time did not permit of a search being made, a report was sent to the A.P.M., and the additional names were also removed from the roll.

Late that night the move commenced to Qubba station, where the train was boarded. Each man was bearing a heavy burden. All ranks were fitted with web equipment, carrying in their packs great coats and a few necessaries and personal belongings, and bearing a blanket, waterproof sheet, three days' rations of biscuits and preserved meat, together with an emergency ration in a sealed tin, and (for those with rifles) 200 rounds of ammunition. Officers carried revolvers, field glasses, prismatic compass, and various other extras. They were also allowed to place their valises on the train but, according to rumour, it was doubtful if they would ever reach them on Gallipoli.

The entrainment was expeditiously carried out and, with the usual amount of discomfort, the journey to the quay at Alexandria was completed by daylight on the 4th September. Here Lieut. Ruddock was waiting and, after some delay, the Battalion embarked on the transport in a similar manner, minus the sympathetic crowd, to that witnessed at Fremantle.



CHAPTER V.

GALLIPOLI.

At this stage it is necessary, in order that the future environment may be fully understood, to give some account of the Gallipoli Peninsula and of the events of the 25th April, 1915, and later.

The Peninsula forms the European side to the Straits of the Dardanelles and is about 53 miles in length. On the north-western side it is washed by the waters of the Gulf of Xeros and on the western side by the Aegean Sea. Near its northern end, at Bulair, it is only two and a half miles across. At Suvla Burnu[G] it broadens out to about 12 miles, but narrows again between Gaba Tepe[H] and Maidos to a bare four miles. Gaba Tepe is about eight miles south of Suvla Burnu and Helles Burnu—the southern end of the Peninsula—13 miles further. Cliffs of marl or sand, rising very abruptly and varying in height from 100 to 300 feet, mark the greater length of the shore. These are broken here and there by the gullies which bring away from the interior the waters of the heavy autumn and winter rains. From Gaba Tepe northwards to Suvla Bay there is an almost uninterrupted stretch of beach from which, opposite the latter feature, a somewhat marshy plain runs back to the foothills of Tekke Tepe.

Groups of hills are marked features of the interior, the most prominent being known as Sari Bair[I] which rises to a height of 971 feet at Koja Chemin Tepe and is the one most familiar to the Australians. These hills possess very steep—even precipitous—slopes which are much excoriated by wind, rain, and frost, and broken into an amazing tangle of gullies and hollows. Firs and stunted oaks, brushwood, oleanders or rhododendrons, and other shrubs are thick wherever they can hold, and form no inconsiderable obstacle—two to four feet high—to anyone's passage.

Before the war a very small part of the land was under cultivation. A few miniature olive and currant orchards, attempts at vineyards, and trifling patches of beans and grain, represented the sole efforts at tillage. There were no railways, and the few roads in existence were in poor condition. In or near what afterwards became the British zone, the only communities were those grouped around the fortifications near Helles and the villages of Krithia, Kurija Dere, Biyuk Anafarta, and Anafarta Sagir. On the side nearer Asia, Maidos, Galata, and Gallipoli boasted the status of towns. Between these last-named points and into the Sea of Marmara the communication and trade were mostly carried on by means of boats.



The Gallipoli Peninsula formed part of Thrace of the ancients. Through it Xerxes, the Persian king, after crossing the Dardanelles, attacked the Greeks with an army and followers estimated at over 2,000,000. This was about 480 B.C. It also lay in the route of Alexander the Great in his march on Egypt and India commenced in 334 B.C. Later on it was overrun by the Gauls, recovered by the Greeks, occupied by the Romans in the 2nd century A.D., passed into the possession of the Venetians 1,000 years later, and was finally held by the Turks as a result of their invasion of Europe in 1356. In 1807 a British naval squadron forced the passage of the Straits but suffered considerable damage, when returning, from large stone shot fired from the guns of the forts. Again, in 1853, the British and French fleets sailed into the Sea of Marmara in support of the Turks who were on the verge of war with Russia. At Bulair, in March and April, 1854, the British troops on the way to the Crimea landed, and, in conjunction with their allies, constructed across the neck of the Peninsula the fortifications known as the Bulair Lines.

Following the outbreak of the great European War, Turkey, on the 31st October, 1914, definitely threw in her lot with Germany. In order to deal with the Ottoman, and at the same time restore communication with Russia through the Black Sea route, the French and British Governments decided to force the Straits. A bombardment was opened on the 3rd November, 1914, but lasted for a few minutes only. On the 19th February following, and succeeding days, a heavy bombardment was carried out and small craft were engaged in mine-sweeping up towards the Narrows. Again, on the 18th March, the attack was renewed—some ships penetrating the Strait eight or ten miles—but the Turks loosed some large mines which floated down and sunk three of the battleships. Now it became obvious that the aid of land forces must be sought in order to deal with the enemy defences. That task was committed to an army already assembling in Egypt and on Lemnos Island. This army was under the command of General Sir Ian Hamilton and was composed of a French Division, the 29th British Division, the Royal Naval Division, and the Australian and New Zealand Army Corps; the last-named formation being commanded by Major-General Sir William Birdwood.

Very early in the morning of the 25th April, 1915, the attack was commenced. The French troops landed at Kum Kale—on the Asiatic side of the Strait; the 29th Division, and part of the R.N. Division, at five places at the southern end of the Peninsula; the Anzac Corps at a cove about 3,000 yards north of Gaba Tepe; whilst the major portion of the R.N. Division was sent under convoy to make a feint in the Gulf of Xeros near to the Bulair Lines.

The Australian attack was led by the 3rd Brigade (including the 11th Battalion). After a week's heroic fighting (in which the 16th Battalion took a prominent part) under conditions never before experienced in warfare, and the loss of 9,000 killed, wounded, and missing, a position was made good which extended in an arc from the foot of Walker's Ridge, on the north, up to Russell's Top, across the head of Monash Gully, to MacLaurin's Hill, continuing to Bolton's Ridge and resecting the beach about 2,000 yards north of Gaba Tepe. The base of this arc measured about 2,700 yards and the enclosed area did not exceed three-quarters of a square mile.

During the next three months the Corps was reinforced by various drafts, and four brigades of Light Horse dismounted. Attempts were made from time to time to improve and extend the Australian position, but little progress was made. At the same time the Turks were by no means idle for, apart from fortifying their positions, they frequently attacked in endeavours to drive us off their soil. The heaviest assault was on the 18th May when 30,000 fresh troops were flung at the 1st Division and the New Zealanders. So effectually were they repulsed that the Turks begged for an armistice for the purpose of collecting and burying the dead.

Sir Ian Hamilton, who had been strengthened by several new divisions, planned a fresh attack for early in August. On the 6th of that month the 1st (N.S.W.) Brigade stormed Lone Pine. On the following morning attacks were made from Steel's Post, Quinn's Post, Pope's Hill, and Russell's Top, but all of these were unfruitful and caused heavy losses. The main attack in the Anzac sector was, however, delivered from the left. This commenced on the night of the 6th August and swept up the Sazli Beit and Chailak Deres,[J] over Big Table Top, Bauchop Hill, and Rhododendron Spur, to a position—afterwards called "The Apex"—within 400 yards of the summit of Chunuk Bair.[K] A portion of the force detailed for this advance moved up the Aghyl Dere and endeavoured to take Koja Chemin Tepe from the west side but, after many casualties, had to entrench on some of the under-features (Cheshire Ridge-Warwick Castle).

During the progress of this fighting the IX. Corps made a fresh landing at Suvla Bay (6th-7th August). The combat was heavy and eventually a junction was effected with the Australian left, but not one of the real objectives was gained.

The operations were continued until the 29th August, on which date the 10th Light Horse, sent north to reinforce there, stormed Hill 60. This was the last Australian attack on the Peninsula. Henceforth attention was given solely to holding and strengthening the positions gained. The 2nd Australian Division took no part in any of these operations, but one of its battalions—the 18th—arrived in time to join in the fighting for the hill feature just mentioned.

The net result of the August fighting gave to the Anzac and IX. Corps a continuous line of about 12 miles. This ran from the Brighton Beach to the Gulf of Xeros. Behind this the depth did not average more than 1-1/4 miles but the Anzac area was enlarged from 300 acres to 8 square miles. This gain cost the Australasians 18,000 casualties. The exhausted troops remaining were gradually relieved by the 2nd Division pending the further development of the British plans.

* * * * *

To return to the record of the events with which the 28th Battalion was concerned after leaving Alexandria.

The knowledge gained during the voyage of the "Ascanius" enabled the troops to settle quickly in their new quarters. In addition to the W.A. Battalion there were on board two companies and the headquarters of the 27th Battalion. The transport, the "Ivernia,"[L] was a comfortable ship of 14,000 tons register belonging to the Cunard Line. The captain and officers at first displayed a rather cool and curt manner towards their new passengers but in the course of a day or two visibly thawed. The captain afterwards, in explanation, stated that from information he had received in regard to the Australians he had expected to find in them an absence of discipline and a tendency to "smash things." He was now agreeably surprised to discover them so tractable and well-behaved—comparing them in a most favourable manner with other contingents he had carried.



Routine was quickly instituted. Special precautions had to be taken in regard to enemy submarines which at this time had become very active and had lately torpedoed the "Southland" conveying the Brigadier and portion of the 6th Brigade as well as the G.O.C. and Staff of the 2nd Australian Division. News of this occurrence had reached the Battalion just prior to embarkation and naturally excited great interest. However, the voyage proved uneventful, the weather good, and the colours of the sea and evening skies a never failing attraction.

Heading towards Crete, the transport skirted its western coast and thence wended its way through the Grecian Archipelago. Arriving off Mudros Bay, Lemnos Island, on the evening of the 8th September, it was found that a boom was across the entrance and the harbour closed for the night. Nothing remained to be done but to stand on and off during the hours of darkness. To cast anchor would have rendered the ship an easy prey to the underwater craft. The sight of the "Southland" on a neighbouring beach lent point to this possibility.

Shortly after sunrise the appearance of a British destroyer coming from the direction of the Bay indicated that the entrance was now open. Threading its way between numbers of British and French men-of-war and other vessels the transport came to rest something less than a mile from the shore.

Anchored in the vicinity was the R.M.S. "Aragon," now used as quarters for the Inspector-General of the Line of Communications and his staff. From this source orders were received to disembark the Battalion on the following day. The arrangements necessary were few, consequently there was little to do and most of the afternoon was spent in bathing at the ship's side or in writing letters. Word had gone forth that the last mail before reaching Gallipoli would close that night. So numerous were the missives that it was found necessary to make every available officer a censor for the time being in order that delay might be avoided. The writings, as usual, were apropos of the occasion but it was found that one man, anticipating events, had informed his mother that he was writing his few words "by the light of the bursting shells."

Disembarkation was to commence at 2 p.m. on the 10th September but the movement proved to be merely a transhipment to the Weymouth-Channel Islands packet boat "Sarnia" which arrived, after a delay of one and a-half hours, and tied up alongside the transport. Coincident with this there appeared several staff officers delegated to "assist." The Senior Naval Transport Officer, a captain in the Royal Navy, endeavoured to make up the 90 minutes lost by urging speed in the move from one ship to the other. When the futility of expecting fully equipped men to move quickly over the solitary 15-inch plank laid down as a gangway was pointed out to him, he showed signs of irritability and threatened an adverse report on the handling of the troops. On being informed that it was his privilege to make such a report he left the ship. However, he was later observed in altercation with the skipper of the smaller vessel and eventually a second gangway was rigged. When this move was commenced there was room on the main deck for two companies only. The other two were kept clear and their officers took refuge on the boat deck. There they were found, reclining in chairs, by another staff officer duly be-tabbed, trousered, brogued, and carrying a cane. He seemed to be amazed at the indifference of the Australians to their impending move and burst out "I say, you fellows, do you know that you've got to be off this —— ship in half an hour?" Being greeted with roars of laughter he disappeared down the companionway calling plaintively, "Where's the Colonel? Where's the Colonel?"

Within ten minutes of the time originally allowed, the Battalion had passed over to the "Sarnia." As she sheered off loud cheers were given for the captain of the "Ivernia" and groans for one of his officers whom the men considered had been, on the voyage, over niggardly with the rations. The packet boat, her decks rather tightly packed with troops, moved down the Bay between the lines of the warships, whose crews cheered and cheered again those now leaving for the front. Darkness was falling as the transport entered the open sea and steamed at 17 knots in the direction of Anzac—60 miles away to the north-east.

Some two hours elapsed and then star shells, bursting over Achi Baba, near the Southern end of the Peninsula, gave the newcomers a first glimpse of the "real war." Later on the guns could be heard and shell explosions witnessed on the plain of Helles where the VIII. Corps and the French had been for the previous five months. Keen were the watchers on the deck of the "Sarnia" and keener still they became as the rugged mass of Sari Bair loomed out of the sea. It was then known that the end of the journey was at hand.

Nearing the Peninsula at this point—opposite Williams' Pier—resembled somewhat an approach to Mt. Eliza on a dark night by boat from Perth Water. Lights shone out from dugouts constructed in the steep slopes, moving lights were discerned on the beach beneath, and the crest line was in darkness except when now and then illuminated by the flash of a bomb, shell, or gun. The simile could be pursued no further, for to those who had not yet been in action the noise going on seemed to indicate that some fierce fighting must be in progress. The dull but powerful thud of exploding hand bombs, the sharper crashing explosion of shell, the report of a discharging gun and the roar of its projectile, echoed and re-echoed, in its flight along one of the numerous ravines, induced belief that very little time must elapse before the 28th would be "in it." It turned out otherwise, however, and subsequent experience showed that these signs and sounds were the mere accompaniment of a "quiet night."



The "Sarnia" stopped her engines when about a mile from the shore. Almost at once one or two flat craft, black in colour and without funnel or rigging, were observed approaching. As they drew alongside a staff officer came up the transport's gangway and delivered the orders for landing the troops. The disembarkation commenced at once—the officers and men filing down the gangway on to the waiting barges. These barges had been given the name of "beetles." They were constructed of bullet-proof iron plates, were propelled by motor engines set astern, could attain a racing speed of five knots, and were designed to carry 50 horses or 500 men with stores, ammunition and water. Built for the Suvla landing, the "beetles" had fully proved their usefulness, but certainly they lacked every element of comfort.

During the disembarkation it was noted that a destroyer had moved in on the right and was directing her searchlight on Gaba Tepe and vicinity. This prevented any observation of the landing process from the direction of the Turkish lines in that quarter. Occasionally she fired her guns and generally gave the impression of intense watchfulness.

By midnight everybody was free of the ship, and the Battalion, leaving Williams' Pier and guided by a staff officer, stumbled along the beach in a northerly direction for a little over a mile to the shelter of Waterfall Gully—a small hollow in the western side of Bauchop's Hill. Two platoons of "A" Company, under Captain Montgomery, had been left on the beach for fatigue duty there. They did not rejoin the unit until the 25th September.

Fatigued with the long day, and overburdened with the load of equipment, rest was the first essential. An attempt was made to form a bivouac, but so small was the space available, and so rough the ground, that the idea had to be abandoned. The men were told to lie down where they were—amongst disused trenches, numerous latrine pits, and close to the remains of the 5th Connaught Rangers (88th) who had been decimated in the fighting of the previous month.

During the night two companies of the 27th Battalion, under Major Jeffrey, were landed. Within 24 hours the Brigadier and staff and the remaining units of the brigade were also disembarked and sheltered in various features near the beach. For the time being the brigade formed part of the New Zealand and Australian Division which normally consisted of the N.Z. Mounted Rifle Brigade and the N.Z. and 4th Australian Infantry Brigades, together with certain artillery, engineers, and other troops. The division was commanded by Major-General Sir A. J. Godley, K.C.M.G.

At dawn of the 11th September, those of the 28th who were still sleeping were rudely awakened by guns firing close at hand. A destroyer had moved in to within a few cable lengths of the shore and was viciously shooting over the heads of the infantry at some target which the enemy on Sari Bair afforded.

During the next few hours contact was gained with the 16th Battalion in reserve in Hay Valley near by. The new arrivals were heartily welcomed by the exhausted remains of that famous unit whose adjutant was, on this morning, shot through the chest whilst on his way to visit the 28th. Nor did the inhabitants of Waterfall Gully escape the hostile bullet, for before noon two members (Private F. T. Mitchell was the first) were hit when they left the shelter of the valley to proceed to a well (kuyu) on the adjacent beach. These were the earliest casualties as a result of the enemy's fire.

Orders having been received to relieve the 4th Australian Infantry Brigade, astride the Aghyl Dere, a party moved up and, after the C.O. had conferred with Colonel Monash, reconnoitred the advanced positions. Later in the day these orders were cancelled, and the 28th was directed to take over the "Apex" salient from the Otago Battalion, N.Z. Infantry. At 7 o'clock that evening Waterfall Gully was evacuated and the Battalion moved up the Chailak Dere to the ravines between Bauchop's Hill, Little Table Top, and Rose Hill. There the night was spent and next evening, the "Apex" position having been reconnoitred, "C" and "D" Companies moved to the front line and relieved the New Zealanders. "A" and "B" Companies took up a position in reserve some 300 yards in rear, near the head of the Chailak Dere. One platoon of "A" Company and the Machine Gun Section were posted on Canterbury Slope—a position in support of the 3rd Light Horse Brigade and on the left flank of Rhododendron Spur.

The position the Battalion was now responsible for was the neck or junction of the Rhododendron Spur with the Sari Bair feature. On the right was the Sazli Beit Dere, and on the left the southern arm of the Aghyl Dere. Behind was the ravine of the Chailak. The trenches ran along in a pothook shape from Rhododendron Spur down to the Cheshire Ridge, on the north side. Opposite to the centre was the actual summit, which was called the "Pinnacle," and was held by the Turks. Here they had erected a block house, which stood about 50 yards from our own trench. The enemy earthworks lined the opposite sides of the gullies at a range varying from 100 to 250 yards from our position—the right of which could be enfiladed from the blockhouse.

To hold this salient was of vital importance. Its loss would have severed the Australian line, turned the flank of the Cheshire Ridge, and exposed to enfilade fire most of the ground gained to the northward during the August fighting. A strong garrison and special vigilance were both necessary. To this post of honour the Western Australian portion of the 7th Infantry Brigade was allotted by reason of the high standard of efficiency it had attained during the training period.

The remainder of the 7th Brigade was disposed as follows:—25th and 27th Battalions on Cheshire Ridge, the left of the former resting on the Aghyl Dere, and the right of the 27th joining up with the 28th, near Apex. The 26th Battalion was held in Divisional Reserve, at Taylor's Hollow, and supplied working parties for engineering and beach duties. One company of the 27th was available as a reserve in the hands of the Brigadier, who was located about half-a-mile from the front line, at the Western foot of Table Top.



For tactical purposes, the "Apex" position was divided into four posts—numbered from the right. "C" Company took Nos. 1 and 2 and was afterwards relieved by "B" Company. "D" Company took Nos. 3 and 4 and later handed over to "A" Company. Nos. 3 and 4 Posts were the closer to the enemy and, consequently, of greater importance. Each post was further divided into a certain number of Groups—each under a Non-commissioned Officer. Three machine guns were mounted in the parapet. After the first week, Lieut. Shaw took these over and also mounted additional guns in secret emplacements, which were constructed by digging through the escarp and tunnelling forward and upward.

The trenches were at least six feet deep and excavated in a kind of conglomerate, which needed very little revetting and was a good bullet or splinter stopper. A ledge or firestep ran along the inside of the trench. Upon this the garrison stood if an attack was to be repelled. The instructions for the posts required that men in them were to be always in a state of readiness, i.e., rifle loaded, bayonet fixed, and equipment worn. One man in each group acted as sentry. He usually sat on a bag full of earth, placed on the firestep, and by means of a periscope, watched for any movement of the enemy. In the wall of the trench little excavations held boxes of reserve ammunition and hand-bombs of various sorts.

The trenches having been commenced only a few weeks earlier, were in a very incomplete state and required much labour and development. Especially was this so in connection with the main communication trenches. Support trenches had also to be constructed and excavations made to establish a direct covered way to the Light Horse, on the southern face of the Rhododendron Spur. These works were undertaken by men from the supports and Battalion reserve. Many hard, long, weary hours were put in with the pick and shovel and the sandbag—which last was the only means of carrying away the spoil.

The defence at first was without any properly arranged plan for support from the artillery or flanking units. Before the brigade left the sector, however, the New Zealand Field Artillery Brigade, a British 6-inch Howitzer Battery, and a 4.7-inch Battery, all had their lines laid down for fire to cover the front. An Indian Mountain Battery also lay in a nook in the Chailak Dere—ready for any emergency. In addition, no less than 31 machine guns—in front and on the flanks—could be brought to bear on the threatened point. To assist in the machine gun work, and advise on local conditions, the Battalion was fortunate in having attached to it for a time Captain Rose, a British Service officer of the Division, and that gallant soldier, Lieut Percy Black, D.C.M.,[M] 16th Battalion.



As part of the defence arrangements, telephone communication was maintained with brigade headquarters. The aerial wires were, however, much exposed to hostile artillery fire and frequently cut. To repair them Lieut. Scouler and his linemen, under Corporal Curran, made many journeys across the exposed portion of the slopes of the ravines. Flag signalling was unnecessary, but a lamp was mounted and sighted so that in case of a sudden attack after dark support could be immediately summoned.

Beyond the actual trenches there was little cover for the garrison. A few excavations in the earth—designated "dugouts"—roofed with waterproof sheets, afforded moderate protection against the weather, but none against shrapnel, splinter, or bomb. The C.O. was the possessor of quarters boasting a covering of two sheets of corrugated iron which had a thin layer of earth on top. This, however, demonstrated its degree of usefulness by falling in upon its occupant. Later on excavations were made in the walls of the communication trenches—each to afford a "comfortable" sleeping place for two or more men.

To assist the newcomers it had been arranged to leave in the trenches a few officers and men of the New Zealanders. Major W. W. Alderman was attached as Staff Officer to the Commanding Officer. A N.Z. Field Company of Engineers had charge of the works in the area, and for the first week the N.Z. Infantry manned the machine guns. The help thus rendered was invaluable to the inexperienced, and a strong feeling of mutual regard sprang up between the members of the two Dominions. The majority of the New Zealanders thus remaining were Maoris—a body of men of fine physique, who had demonstrated their capacity to endure and also proved their worth as keen and sterling fighters. The Maoris had their own chaplain and medical officer. The latter (Dr. M. P. Buck) later commanded the N.Z. Pioneer Battalion.

The attitude of the opposing armies at this time was not altogether passive. A war of attrition was carried on continuously. This took the form of daily bombardments by the artillery of positions and areas behind the trenches; also the raking of parapets of opposing trenches, and No Man's Land, by machine gun fire at night. Sniping with the rifle had become a fine art, and authenticated cases, wherein a Turk had been knocked over, were mentioned in Orders. One Light Horseman, it was recorded in Corps Orders, had over 200 of the enemy to his credit. This sniping was done from carefully concealed positions (possies), from steel loopholes built into the parapet, or by means of the periscope rifle which latter enabled the user to fire over the sandbags without any exposure of his own body.

Sniping with field guns was also indulged in. In this the enemy had the advantage by reason of being on higher ground and able to overlook most of the Australian sector. Working parties, parties in movement, and individuals who came under observation, were usually treated to a dose of shrapnel fired with excellent aim and timing from 77 millimeter guns of high velocity. The projectile from this gun was usually designated a "whizz-bang" on account of the short space of time which elapsed between the first sound of its approach and that of the explosion of the shell. By some grim humourist it was said that if one could hear the shell coming there was no danger to be feared, but if, on the other hand, the sound was not audible, then there was no need to worry. The burial parties would do all that was necessary.

In fighting between trench and trench, considerable use was made, besides the rifle, of bombs or grenades. These were of varied types, with either concussion or missile effect, and some were thrown by hand whilst others were propelled from mortars or catapults. The Mills grenade had just made its appearance, and was regarded as a special reserve of power in case of an enemy attack. The numbers of these available were small but other types were more plentiful and included the jam tin, cricket ball, time and friction, match head, and hair brush. Some were ignited by mechanical action and others by match or portfire. Portfires were made by wrapping a piece of khaki drill tightly around a thin strip of pine wood. One of these when once lit would burn for hours.

Of Trench Mortars the Apex position possessed two—one a 3.7 inch and the other, smaller, a Garland Howitzer. These threw light bombs a short distance. Their effect was quite local and, except in case of a direct hit on a person, hardly more than moral. One of these mortars was located on either flank of the position. Private F. Congdon was placed in charge of that on the right and Private J. B. Deering that on the left. These soldiers soon learned to use their weapons so effectively that the Turk was discovered, early one morning, to have placed a protective wire-netting screen in front of and over the Blockhouse.

Later on the Battalion made the acquaintance of the Catapult. This machine resembled a large "shanghai" fixed to timber, one end of which rested on the parapet whilst the other—in the trench—was packed in a manner to give the required elevation. A cricket ball or jam tin bomb was placed in the pouch and the rubbers were then strained by means of a crank handle winding up a wire attached to the pouch with a trip hook. When the required tension was obtained one man lit the fuse and retired to cover. The other, the expert, allowing the fuse to burn for a certain time—to suit the range, pulled the string which released the trip. If all went well the bomb sailed over towards the Turk. Sometimes, however, the trip would fail, or the rubbers foul. Then the bomb would make a very short flight and might not even clear the home trench. In consequence of these possibilities, the local area was never overcrowded with inquisitive people and the experts became expert also at taking cover.



In some parts of the line bombing was carried on from "bombing bays." These bays were small earthworks constructed, usually, in advance but connected with the main trench. Two men were placed in occupation of each. One man was an experienced thrower and the other, as the Turk had the unpleasant habit of retaliating, held a half-filled sandbag which he dropped upon any enemy bomb which happened to land within the bay. With low power grenades this method was effective but failed when applied to such as were invented by Mills.

Two other types of weapons may be mentioned here. One used by us and the other by the enemy. The first was a Japanese mortar which fired a 50 lb. bomb having a good range and a large bursting charge. This had been used by our ally during the Russo-Japanese War. The Battalion made its acquaintance when the move to Russell's Top took place, in December, but unfortunately the ammunition was too scarce to permit of any lasting benefit being derived, although the few rounds that were fired proved their destructive effect on the opposing trenches. The Turkish weapon was known as the "broomstick bomb" and was also propelled from a mortar. It consisted of a 4-inch cartridge case filled with a high explosive and also containing metal such as boiler punchings, nails, etc. (in one case gramophone needles were discovered), and provided with a percussion cap. It was fitted to a stick about two inches thick and five feet long. Its descent into our lines or support area was almost vertical—hence no cover then available was proof against it. Its effect was very destructive and its toll of life heavy. A sentry usually watched for and gave warning of the approach of one of these missiles, and the scene which followed his stentorian "Look out!" was somewhat animated. Hairbreadth escapes from destruction were numerous. Two of these will bear relation.

A batman, preparing an evening meal, was interrupted by the arrival of a bomb which had glanced off some obstacle and now came to a halt across the cooking fire. The batman hurriedly evacuated his position but, fortunately, the uninvited guest did not explode and was carefully removed out of harm's way by the adjutant. The very next morning a second missile came to rest on the waterproof sheet furnishing cover for this same man. This was more than he could bear—"it was over the odds"—and he complained. Some difficulty was experienced in restoring to him the correct viewpoint in regard to such occurrences.

The second incident was an experience of Lieut. G. A. F. Smith, who, whilst sitting in a newly constructed "safe" dugout, and enjoying a meal, was startled by a sudden clatter and almost blinded by an upheaval of earth and dust. Clearing his eyes he discovered the ruined remains of his repast, and, lying between his legs, an unexploded broomstick bomb that had glanced off the opposite wall of the communication trench and slid into the excavation. Somebody in the Battalion tacked a story on to this occurrence. It was said that this officer's batman, having observed the arrival of the bomb, approached the dugout and, peering cautiously into it, was greeted with "Hallo! What shall I do with this?" His reply was: "If you will wait until I get around the corner, you can do as you —— well like with it."

FOOTNOTES:

[G] Burnu = cape.

[H] Tepe = hill.

[I] Bair = spur.

[J] Dere.—Valley with stream.

[K] Portion of Sari Bair group of hills.

[L] The "Ivernia" on the 1st January, 1917, when in the Mediterranean, was torpedoed and sunk by an enemy submarine; 153 lives were lost. Dr. Riley, Archbishop of Perth, was a passenger.

[M] Afterwards Major P. Black, D.S.O., D.C.M., C. de G. Killed at Bullecourt, 11th April, 1917.



CHAPTER VI.

GALLIPOLI

(continued).

The first night (12th-13th Sept.) in the trenches was not without serious mishap. Lieut. F. E. Jensen, who had seen service in the South African War, and was one of the most promising of the junior officers, was shot through the face when standing on the firestep instructing one of his platoon. He died a few hours later.

The hours of darkness were punctuated by short bursts of machine gun fire and occasional rifle shots at movement, or suspected movement, on the other side. Now and then one of our guns would send a shell over towards the Turks. Subsequent experience showed that at night time the enemy rarely replied to these, as he feared that the flashes from his artillery would disclose his positions and thus afford an opportunity to the watching Navy with its heavier weapons.

Every soldier in the front trenches was alert. Post commanders moved about supervising, and the attached New Zealanders imparted useful information in regard to trench warfare methods, such as how to outwit the wily Turk; the essential discipline; and precautions to ensure safety to the individual. Opportunity of gaining an acquaintance with No-Man's Land was afforded through the necessity of examining and repairing the protective wire entanglements, which were thrown out in front and consisted of a few strands of barbed wire and French wire very imperfectly secured. Now and then senior officers passed down the forward trench intent on seeing that the general plan of defence was being adhered to.

Dawn brought increased activity. At that hour—the then accepted hour for an attack—every man in the Battalion was awake and stood at his post fully armed and equipped. This state of readiness was referred to in "orders" as the "Stand To," and was observed morning and evening. Thus the soldier remained until some 30 minutes later, when the order "Stand Down" was passed along. On such occasions the absence of fuss and noise in movement, it is generally agreed, is an indication that a unit is well disciplined. One of our battalions momentarily went astray in this respect, and its men in the front trenches, early one morning, were treated to an unexpected touch of humour on the part of the enemy, from whose locality a voice, in more or less perfect English, was heard calling "Stand to, —th Battalion!"



To the 28th the "Stand Down" brought some relaxation, both mental and physical, as the rising of the sun restored sight to the sentries and imparted increased confidence to the whole. Light revealed rather a marked change in the appearance of individuals. The chill of the night air had impelled many to put on their greatcoats. Some had even donned their Balaclava caps, which, showing only the eyes, nose, and mouth of the wearer, and surmounted by a hat or cap, gave a grotesque effect. Clothing smeared with earth, eyes bloodshot for want of sleep, and scrubby chins disclosed the need and benefit of, amongst other things, a wash. Water for this was, however, not available except in small quantities, and the man was lucky who secured one that day. The next best thing was a meal, and this consisted of army biscuit and tinned meat (bully beef) washed down by a small quantity of tea, which the Quartermaster had sent up hot but which reached those who needed it in a lukewarm condition.



Following that was the cleaning up of the trenches. This consisted of collecting all scraps of food, empty tins, bits of paper, etc., and removing from the floor the debris that had fallen from the walls, or parapet and parados, during the previous 24 hours. Then came attention to rifle and bayonet, which were to be kept free of obstruction and rust. The reserve ammunition and bombs, some of which were open to the air, had also to be wiped free of verdigris and dust so that they would not jam or clog when required for use. This daily cleaning up had become almost a fetish in the army, but it undoubtedly engendered habits of orderliness—thereby promoting efficiency, and also had a material effect on the health of the individual by keeping down the flies, which would swarm around any tins or other receptacles which had contained food, or any of the food itself.

This day brought the Battalion for the first time under direct artillery fire. It was the enemy's custom to indulge in a "hate" morning and afternoon. This would take the form of a bombardment of from 20 to 80 rounds of 77 millimeter shrapnel and high explosive shells. Large calibre guns were not directed on the Apex whilst the Battalion was stationed there. With the high explosive projectiles was used a percussion fuse, and these were intended more for the demolition of works than man killing. Actually they did little damage and, except on one occasion when a direct hit was secured in a machine gun emplacement, no one was injured. Shrapnel was used in a different manner, and was far more dangerous. The fuse was for time, and the range and fuse were so harmonised that the shell burst in the air, short of and above the target, thus allowing the bullets it contained to sweep forward and downward, spreading out fan-like as they progressed. Many of the small missiles thus entered the trenches, but by keeping close to the forward wall of the excavations immunity from damage was generally secured to the individual. Occasionally the Turk threw in a few rounds from a mountain gun which he had secreted somewhere on the slope of Sari Bair. These simply whizzed through the air and buried themselves in the earth without doing any damage to either man or trench.

The 28th stood its baptism of fire well, and was more curious than alarmed at the noise, smoke, and earth upheavals caused by the enemy's action. Some of the men early disclosed the possession of the "souvenir" habit by collecting specimens of the shrapnel pellets. Unfortunately that portion of the Battalion in reserve, not being under any cover except a slight fold in the ground, sustained a few casualties by wounds.

Early in the morning the Brigadier paid a visit to the lines and was indefatigable in his zeal for the safety of the position and the welfare of his command. Throughout the short period of his stay on the Peninsula his characteristics in this respect were most marked and, for a man of his advanced years, the wonders he achieved in hill climbing, and the risks he ran from enemy snipers, were a subject of frequent comment.

About noon the Battalion made the acquaintance of Sir William Birdwood, who went through the trenches accompanied by Sir Alexander Godley and a staff officer. His attractive personality, unassuming manner, and his kindly and tactful inquiries, instantly earned the regard of the newcomers. A particular incident which occurred that morning may serve to illustrate his general attitude. He came to a Western Australian and a New Zealander standing together. To the W.A. man he said, "Are you 28th?" Receiving an affirmative answer the General placed a hand on the man's shoulder and remarked, "We are very glad you've come. You know what your comrades of the 1st Division have done, and we know that, when the time arrives, you will do the same." Then placing the other hand on the Maori's shoulder, he concluded, "And you can show him how to do it, can't you?"

Of a different disposition, the Divisional Commander contented himself, during his first visit, with merely observing and asking a question here and there. His subsequent visits were frequent and seldom welcomed by the rank and file, who found him awe-inspiring and hypercritical. He was, however, known to unbend and show generous appreciation of honest effort and good work. On rare occasions he unexpectedly revealed the possession of a sense of humour.

Other visitors came on this first day. From the 10th Light Horse, which was located near the Sazli Beit Dere; from the 11th and 12th Battalions, holding the line far down on the right; from the 16th Battalion, awaiting embarkation for Lemnos Island, where they were to have a well-earned rest; and from the 8th Battery, also with the 1st Division. These came to see relatives and friends in order to exchange news of home and of pals who had gone under or been wounded. With the advent of the 2nd Division began a system of transfer of individuals of one unit to another whereby an elder brother, say, in the 11th Battalion, could apply for permission for a younger brother who had arrived in the, say, 28th Battalion, to join him. If the younger brother was agreeable to the change, approval for the transfer was seldom withheld.

When the line was "quiet" the men were enabled to examine the enemy's positions with the aid of periscopes. No signs of movement could be discerned, but the long lines of trenches rising tier above tier on the opposite hillsides indicated how difficult would be the task should a further advance be ordered. The observers on Nos. 2 and 3 Posts mostly concentrated their attention on the ground in the vicinity of the Pinnacle. From there a sniper was taking shots at any object which appeared above our parapets or at a loophole. Very rapid and accurate as he was, it was soon found that a certain amount of skill was required to camouflage and look through a periscope without having one's eyes destroyed with broken glass. A small Union Jack, mounted on a stick less than half an inch in diameter, was cut down at the sniper's first attempt.

In No-man's Land, in front of the two posts mentioned, could be seen the remains of a trench dug by the New Zealanders in their August advance. This they had been compelled to abandon together with their dead comrades who lay about, still unburied, rapidly decomposing in the sun which yet retained the strength of summer. Picks, shovels, rifles and equipment also littered the landscape. Within our own area there were likewise grim reminders of the fight. Here and there a limb protruded through the wall of a newly cut trench, whilst in other places a piece of biscuit box, or a rifle stuck into the earth muzzle down, both bearing a name written in indelible pencil, indicated the last resting place of some fallen comrade.

From No. 4 Post the observer could look down on "The Farm." This was a spot on the side of Chunuk Bair at the head of the Aghyl Dere, and had formerly been cultivated. Now the Turk had commenced to entrench across it, and was apparently working on it under cover of darkness. Beyond, to the north, running up over the ridge (Kiretch Tepe Sirt) which bordered the Gulf of Xeros, could be seen the whole of the line held by the 54th Division and IX. Corps. The principal features were Hill 60 (Kaijak Aghala), W Hills (Ismail Oglu Tepe), the village of Anafarta Sagir, Chocolate Hill, the salt lake near Suvla Bay, and the bay itself with the hill Lala Baba on its southern side.

The support of the Royal Navy was further manifested by the presence in the Bay, behind the IX. Corps, of a cruiser and some smaller craft. From one of these a sausage-shaped balloon occasionally ascended some few hundred feet and afforded observation of the enemy's rear lines. A glance down the ravine of the Chailak, between Bauchop's Hill and Table Top, revealed H.M.S. "Grafton," a second class cruiser, anchored about two miles from the shore, whose 9.2 and 6-inch guns supplied a powerful backing to the weak artillery of the Anzac Corps.

September 14th did not pass without loss. That morning witnessed the deaths of Sergt. F. W. Ball and two other members as the result of shrapnel fire. Later in the day another member succumbed to wounds. Snipers also levied their toll of those moving about where the reserve was situated. In consequence of this a move was made to a more sheltered quarter and the unsafe dugouts were evacuated. On the 16th there were two further fatal casualties.

During the next two days the men became more accustomed to their life and surroundings. Those in the front trench had by far the easier time. Those in support had to handle the pick and shovel in the works for the improvement of the position. Digging was hard. The conglomerate-like composition of the soil resisted the shovels and turned the points of the picks. Recourse was had to the Navy, who supplied a small forge for the sharpening of the latter. Thus to other noises was added that of the hammer on anvil. The reserves were utilised by the Brigade and Division for works in rear of the position. The demands of the Engineers seemed never ending and were often in excess of the number of men available. This caused considerable confusion and irritation followed by requests from the Division for explanations as to labour not being forthcoming. These requests had usually to be met by lengthy and involved "returns" which very few people understood and which served no useful purpose except to temporarily alleviate the strain. As a rule the exasperating situation was restored next day. Nor was the necessity for the work at first apparent to the men. They thought they came to fight with the bullet and bayonet only. But enlightenment came and one experienced miner voiced it, after a solid week on excavating, when he said "I have just discovered I have been a blanky soldier all my life."



Long hours of hard work usually induce sound sleep at night, but with the platoons in support this happy condition was difficult to achieve. A few had "bivies" excavated in the walls of the trenches, but most men had only the floor of the trench upon which to lie. Here, clothed in their overcoats and wrapped in their single blankets, they slumbered—only to be rudely awakened now and then by the pressure on some part of their anatomy of the feet of a passenger to or from the front line. On dark nights careless senior officers when going their rounds were treated to loud and homely descriptions of themselves which in daylight and cold blood would scarcely even have been whispered to a comrade. In the front trench, where the garrison was relieved by the supports every 24 hours, sleep was, theoretically, not to be thought of. However, the normal man felt that at some time during the 24 hours it was good to close his tired eyes—if only for a few minutes. After all, a seat on a sandbag, and a good solid wall against which to rest one's back, did give a little comfort. The officer in making his tour of inspection would ask a question here and there and occasionally mount the firestep and talk with the sentry. Usually the noise of his approach was sufficient to ensure alertness on his entering a bay that was manned, but, now and then, stertorous breathing and the attitude of the sentry, as revealed by his silhouette against the light of the moon or stars, would indicate that the flesh had momentarily vanquished the spirit. The touch of a hand was sufficient to restore wakefulness. Apropos of this, a senior officer, rather irritable at the moment, once touched an apparently sleeping sentry on the knee, at the same time asking the question "Look here! Are you asleep?" He was rather confounded at receiving the undoubtedly truthful answer "No, Sir."