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The abbots had several special privileges; they were exempted from assisting at the yearly synods; they had the custody of the Brecbennach, or consecrated banner of St. Columba; they acquired from Pope Benedict, by Bull, dated at Avignon, the right to wear a mitre, and were in some instances the foremost churchmen of the Kingdom. The abbey was toll-free, i.e. protected against the local impositions which of old beset all merchandise.
"But," says Dr. Cosmo Innes, "the privilege the abbot most valued (and intrinsically the most valuable) was the tenure of all his lands, 'in free regality,' i.e. with sovereign power over his people, and the unlimited emoluments of criminal jurisdiction.... Even after the Reformation had passed over abbot and monk, the lord of regality had still the same power, and the Commendator of Arbroath was able to rescue from the King's Justiciar and to 'repledge' into his own court four men accused of the slaughter of William Sibbald of Cair—as dwelling within his bounds (quasi infra bondas ejusdem commorantes). The officer who administered this formidable jurisdiction was the Bailie of the Regality, or 'Justiciar Chamberlain and Bailie'—the Bailiary had become virtually hereditary in the family of Airlie.[433] ... The mair and the coroner of the abbey were the executors of the law within the bounds of the regality, and the best thought it no degradation to hold their lands as vassals of the great abbey."[434]
The monks made a harbour and fixed a bell on the Inchcape Rock as a warning to sailors; the abbey was burnt in 1272 and 1380.
Referring to its chartulary as a record of the names of the old Scottish families Dr. Cosmo Innes says:—
"Many of our ancient families went down in the War of Independence, and few of our present aristocracy trace back beyond the revolution of families and property which took place under Bruce. The Earls of Angus, Fife, and Strathearn are little more than mythological personages to the modern genealogist.... It is the common case all over Scotland."[435]
In connection with the monks he has the following interesting note:—
"It is to be remarked that in Scotland, as in other countries, while the secular or parochial clergy were often the younger sons of good families, the convents of monk and friars were recruited wholly from the lower classes; and yet—not to speak of the daily bread, the freedom from daily care, all the vulgar temptations of such a life in hard times—the career of a monk opened no mean path to the ambitious spirit. The offices of the monastery alone might well seem prizes to be contended for by the son of the peasant or burgess, and the highest of these placed its holder on a level with the greatest of the nobility."[436]
The last abbot was Cardinal Beaton, at the same time Archbishop of St. Andrews. The abbey suffered after the Reformation from the revenues having become the property of the Hamiltons, and as they were appropriated to the private use of that family, there were no funds to keep up the buildings, which fell gradually into decay, and were freely used by the magistrates and townspeople as a quarry. The property was converted into a temporal lordship in favour of Lord Claude Hamilton, third son of the Duke of Chatelherault.
In sketching the history of this famous abbey, the "Aberbrothock Manifesto" of 1320 must be recalled, in which it becomes manifest that the Scottish Church was never a complaisant vassal of Rome.[437] There breathes in it a spirit of freedom and natural independence, and a refusal to accept the interference of Rome in the affairs of the State. The Scottish nobles protest against the papal countenance given to the English aggressions, and distinctly tell Pope John XXII. that "not for glory, riches, or honour we fight, but for liberty alone, which no good man loses but with his life."[438]
The abbey church consisted of a choir of three bays, with side aisles and an aisleless presbytery; a nave of nine bays, with aisles and north and south transepts with eastern aisles; two western towers and one large central tower. Considerable portions of these divisions still remain, but the greater part of the north side of the choir, the north transept and nave, and almost all the piers and pillars have been swept away. Beginning at the east end, the eastern wall is entire for nearly half its height, having an arcade below and three lancet windows above, with the lower portions of an upper row of similar windows. Somewhat less of the return wall of the south side of the presbytery, comprising two bays, remains, and adjoining it is the sacristy, a late building fairly well preserved. The end wall of the south transept is almost complete, along with a considerable portion of the west wall of the transept, which gives a good idea of the grandeur of the church. The whole of the nave south wall remains, showing a row of windows and indications of the groining of the aisle. The central aisle was not vaulted, but covered with a wooden roof. Most of the bases of the nave pillars are in position, as are also the foundations of the north transept. The west end fragment and the two towers left standing, are striking and impressive in their vigorous work.[439] Bold, vigorous work, with refinement of detail, is seen in the western doorway. It is round arched, and its outer order, if it may be so called, extends inwards for about five feet, unadorned as a bold and plain tunnel arch, having a pointed arch in each ingoing. It then becomes shafted and richly moulded, after the transition manner. This arrangement, while it gives a fine shadow under the arch, has a feeling of rudeness, which, to a considerable extent, characterises the whole west front. "There is a remarkable resemblance in the decoration of this doorway to that of the doorway in the porch of Lerida Cathedral, Spain, supposing the tunnel arch of Arbroath away, and the moulded part brought forward to the face of the wall, as is the case at Lerida.... A similar ring ornament, on a large scale, is also to be seen in a doorway at Lamington, Lanarkshire, where it is likewise used along with the zig-zag, but there the ringed order is the outer enrichment."[440]
The removal of the outer part of a gallery, which existed over this doorway, has increased the rude appearance of the west front, but the inner part of this gallery still remains. Within the great thickness of the wall a chamber of considerable size was obtained, and it opens into the nave by six pointed arches, and to the outside over the doorway by three arches. It is regarded as obvious that three gablets projected outwards from the wall for a distance of about four feet, supported on two intermediate shafts, and that the gallery was closed in at each end with walls or haffits, both of which still remain in part. We now see the west front robbed of its most unique features; the gallery was reached by a long passage at each end from stairs in the angle-buttresses. It probably was a gallery for an orchestra, and may have also been used as a pulpit to address an open-air audience.[441]
Above this gallery was an immense circular window, a portion of which still survives. "It is probable that this part of the building was erected at two different times, the west doorway and some of the pillars of the gallery being in the early transition style, while the triple windows to the front and the six-light arcade towards the interior are in the first pointed style. When the gallery was completed in the first pointed period, the floor space was enlarged by extending it to the front, hence the necessity for the deep tunnel arch over the west doorway. The pointed arches in the ingoing also indicate this first pointed period."[442]
The western towers opened with arches into the north, south, and central aisles, but only the north tower retains its massive pier and arches, while of the south tower nothing but the foundation of the pier exists. The south wall of the transept is externally plain, the upper part being visible above the dormitory roof. The facade has two plain lancet windows, one shorter than the other, and above them is a large wheel window. The interior of the transept is a very grand design in the early pointed style.[443] Beneath the splayed lancets there is a round arched open arcade, with a passage behind it, and beneath this, two tiers of wall arcades with pointed arches, the central arcade being very acutely pointed, the lower one not so decidedly, and with trefoil cusps in the arches. A staircase in the S.E. angle of the transept gave access to the dormitory by the door, seen built up on the outside.[444] This staircase also leads to the various passages in the thickness of the walls, and the church doorway leading to this stair is round arched and ranges with the lower pointed arcade. The lower arcade of the south end is continued along the west wall, and above this rise two widely-splayed windows. All the lofty south transept windows have passages on two floors, and the transepts had chapels on the east side. "The respond of the great arcade against the south wall is beautiful in detail. Above this there exist fragments of the responds of the triforium story and the clerestory. All the above features of this part of the abbey point plainly to its having some lingering remains of transition style, retaining, as it does, some round arches along with the general features of the design."[445]
The vestry or sacristy was built by Abbot Walter Painter between 1411 and 1433, and is a two-storied building, the ground floor having a groined ceiling, still entire, and the upper room being roofless. Its features are of fifteenth-century work, and the building is in good preservation.
Only fragments of the conventual buildings remain. "An octagonal turret marks the south-east corner of the chapter-house with the south and east return walls, and adjoining the south transept is the slype, the walls of which determine the other walls of the chapter-house. On the wall of the south transept is clearly seen the mark of the dormitory roof, with the door between the church and dormitory now built up."[446] The north wall and a portion of the west wall proceeding southward from it are all that remain of the extensive enclosure of the abbey. The enclosure was said to have been of great height and to have extended 1150 feet on the east and west, 760 feet on the north, and 480 feet on the south. There were great towers at the angles and entrance gateways on the north and at the south-east angle. In the centre of the north wall is the portcullis entrance gatehouse. The front wall is almost entire, and the upper floor window is crossed by the corbels which carried the movable wooden hoarding that was erected over the gateway when required for its defence.[447] At the western extremity of the north enclosing wall there is a large square tower, three stories in height in the inside, and four stories on the outside, owing to the fall of the ground. The two lower floors are round-vaulted, and the cape-house on top is said to have been removed during this century.[448] The building adjoining the tower to the east was called the Regality Court-house, and had a groined ceiling. The abbot's house is on the south side of the cloister, and is the best preserved abbot's house in Scotland. It is three stories high, and the two upper floors have been converted into a modern private dwelling-house. It has been altered externally and spoiled of its ancient internal fittings, with the exception of two fine carved panels, one representing the Virgin, and the other a large Scotch thistle. The kitchen has central pillars supporting a groined roof,[449] and the other offices connected with the kitchen are all vaulted. The abbey suffered from fire in 1272 and in 1380, while in 1350 it was injured "from the frequent assaults of the English ships."[450] Service was up to 1590 conducted in the lady chapel "stripped of its altars and images."
Melrose Abbey (Roxburghshire).—The editor of the Liber de Melros has said in reference to this abbey:—
"The incidental mention of the condition of the abbey itself at different times strongly illustrates the history of the district and the age. At one time powerful and prosperous, accumulating property, procuring privileges, commanding the support of the most powerful, and proudly contending against the slightest encroachment; at another, impoverished and ruined by continual wars, obliged to seek protection from the foreign invader: in either situation it reflects back faithfully the political condition of the country.
But the political events of a country of so narrow bounds and small resources as Scotland are insignificant unless they are associated with the development of principles and feelings that know no limits of place or power. How rich Scotland has been in such associations is testified by the general sympathy which attends her history and her literature, and gives a pride to her children that forms not the weakest safeguard of their virtue. It is in recalling freshly the memory of times in which the proud and virtuous character of her people was formed, and which it is their delight and their duty to look back upon, that such studies as the present are most useful. Every local association, every faint illustration of antiquity, each indication of the bygone manners of a simple age, are in this view to be treasured, not only as filling a page of a meagre history, but as so many moral ties to bind us closer in affection to the country of our fathers."[451]
This abbey has a charming site in the hill-girt hollow known as the vale of Melrose, occupying one of those peaceful situations near a river which the Cistercians delighted to choose and colonise. An ancient monastery of Melrose had existed since the seventh century, on a broad meadow nearly surrounded by a "loop" of the Tweed, about 2-1/2 miles lower down the river. It was established about 650 by St. Aidan, the missionary from Iona, who preached in Northumbria, and founded the abbey of Lindisfarne. Eata was the first abbot we hear of, and he was a disciple of St. Aidan. St. Cuthbert spent much of his early life at this monastery of old Melrose, and afterwards chose as the scene of his labours Hexham and Lindisfarne. The monks of Lindisfarne, when expelled by the Danes, took refuge at Melrose, and brought with them St. Cuthbert's body, which afterwards found its resting-place at Durham. In the eleventh century this old monastery of Melrose had become a ruined and desolate place. It afterwards became the retreat of a few monks, amongst whom was the celebrated Turgot, the confessor of Queen Margaret. A chapel was erected and dedicated to St. Cuthbert, which at first belonged to Coldingham, but was gifted finally by David I. to the new abbey of Melrose.
This abbey was founded in 1136 at a place then called Fordell, and was endowed by David I. and his nobles with extensive lands. The monks were of the Cistercian order, and were brought from Rievalle in Yorkshire. The original buildings were not finished till 1146, and on the 28th of July in that year the church was solemnly consecrated and dedicated to the Virgin Mary. It is thought that such buildings with an oratory were probably the residence of the monks, and their period would suggest the Norman style, like that of the abbeys of Kelso, Jedburgh, and Dryburgh. Every trace of these early buildings has disappeared, and, situated as it was on the border-country, Melrose Abbey was exposed to danger, and frequently suffered in the wars between the two countries. It was in the chapter-house at Melrose that the Yorkshire barons united against King John and swore fealty to Alexander II. in 1215. In 1295 Edward I. gave formal protection to its monks, and in 1296 he issued a writ ordering a restitution to them of all the property they had lost in the preceding struggle. In 1321 or 1322 the original structure was destroyed by the English under Edward II., and the abbot, with a number of the monks, was killed. In 1326 Robert I. gave a grant of L2000 to be applied to the rebuilding of the church, and in 1329, a few months before his death, he wrote a letter to his son David, requesting that his heart should be buried at Melrose and commending the monastery and the church to his successor's favour. His wish was granted, and so late as 1369 we hear of King David II. renewing his father's gift, and it is to this grant we owe a considerable part of the present building. In 1328 Edward III. ordered the restoration to the abbey of pensions and lands which it had held in England, and which had been seized by Edward II. In 1334 the same king granted a protection to Melrose in common with the other Border abbeys, and in 1341 he came to Melrose to spend Christmas. In 1385 Richard II., exasperated by his fruitless expedition into Scotland, spent a night in the abbey and caused it to be burned. Notwithstanding these disasters, the abbey increased in wealth and architectural splendour, and it was not till more severe damage and dilapidations befell it during the reigns of Henry VIII., Edward VI. and Elizabeth, that ruin began finally to impend. The approach of the Reformation influenced its downfall, and though donations for rebuilding were given by various individuals, the abbey never recovered the damage then suffered. In 1541 James V. obtained from the Pope the abbeys of Melrose and Kelso, to be held in commendam by his illegitimate son James, who died in 1558. In 1560 all the "abbacie" was annexed to the Crown, and in 1566 Mary granted the lands to James, Earl of Bothwell, with the title of Commendator. After passing through the hands of Douglas of Lochleven and Sir John Ramsay, the estates were ultimately acquired by the Scotts of Buccleuch. The abbey gradually fell into decay through neglect. The materials were used for the erection of other structures, and Douglas built from the ruins a house which still stands to the north of the cloisters and bears the date 1590. The masonry also formed a quarry for the neighbourhood, and in 1618 the remaining portion of the structure was fitted up as the parish church, "and in order to render it secure, a plain pointed barrel vault was thrown across the nave, and was supported by plain square piers built against the old piers on the north side. The original vaulting seems to have been previously demolished."[452] A great number of the stone images of saints which filled the numerous wall niches were left untouched till 1649, when they were almost all cast down and destroyed, but by whose order is unknown. Of the abbey there now only remain the ruins of the church, and of it the most competent authorities say:—
"No building in Scotland affords such an extensive and almost inexhaustible field for minute investigation and enjoyment of detail such as this. Whether we consider the great variety of the beautifully sculptured figures of monks and angels playing on musical instruments, or displaying 'the scrolls which teach us to live and die,' or turn to the elaborate canopies and beautiful pinnacles of the buttresses, or examine the rich variety of foliage and other sculptures on the capitals of the nave and the doorway and arches of the cloisters; or if, again, we take a more general view of the different parts of the edifice from the numerous fine standpoints from which it can be so advantageously contemplated, we know of no Scottish building which surpasses Melrose either in the picturesqueness of its general aspect or in the profusion or value of its details. It occupies an important position also historically, and it in part supplies an admirable example of that decorated architecture, the existence of which in this country has been so often denied, but of which, we trust, a sufficient number of examples are now provided to render that reproach to Scottish architecture no longer justifiable. We have to thank the fine red sandstone of the district, of which the church is built, for the perfect preservation of all the details of the structure. These remain, even in the minutest carving, as perfect and complete as the day they were executed."[453]
The cloister and domestic buildings, including the hall of Abbot Matthew, were situated on the north side of the church. They have now entirely disappeared, leaving only a portion of the cloister which indicates their position. The church is cruciform, and the choir is unusually short and the nave unusually long. The aisled choir extends only two bays eastwards from the crossing, beyond which point the presbytery is carried one bay farther, without aisles, and is lighted by large north and south windows as well as by the great eastern window.
The shortness of the choir rendered it necessary that part of the nave should be appropriated for the monks, and the enclosing screen wall of this portion of the "choir" extended to the fourth pier west from the crossing, where it was carried across the nave and formed the rood screen. The screen was wide and contained a gallery, on the top of which stood the rood.[454] The nave extends to eight bays, but it has been intended to be longer—the west end being incomplete. Extending southwards, beyond the south aisle, is a series of eight chapels, which produced externally, along with the south aisle, the appearance of a double aisle.[455] The north aisle is narrower than the south aisle, and the position of the cloister may have hampered the design.
This difference may have arisen from the plan of the original abbey of the twelfth century being adhered to in the later construction.[456]
The transepts contain the usual eastern aisle only, in which are situated four chapels.
The superstructure of the church has severely suffered and the western part is greatly demolished. The portion eastwards from the rood screen is in better preservation. The vaulting of the aisles is well-preserved, but that of the centre aisle is demolished—a pointed tunnel vault having been constructed in 1618. The eight chapels are well preserved, but some parts of the three furthest west ones are damaged and have lost their vaulting. The tracery in the chapel windows is lovely; the vaulting of the nave, south aisle and chapels, is supported by a series of flying buttresses, "which form one of the most prominent and beautiful elements of the building. No church in Scotland retains such a striking example of that important feature of Gothic architecture."[457]
The eastern piers of the crossing were demolished probably in Henry VIII.'s time, and their destruction entailed that of the central tower, of which the western wall only remains. The transepts have suffered by the fall of the tower, but fortunately the south wall of the transept with its finely decorated window is still preserved. From the south transept access is obtained to the roof of the nave aisle and to the uppermost parts of the structure by a turnpike stair, which also forms the only mode of approach to the tower.[458] "The choir, so far as the east is concerned, is well preserved, the buttresses and gable, the celebrated eastern window, and the remarkable vaulting of the presbytery being all in good order. The remainder of the choir, however, has been greatly wrecked by the fall of the central tower; but many of the windows of the choir and transept with their perpendicular tracery have escaped destruction, and afford the best example in Scotland of that form of design."[459]
The building, as it now stands, is, generally speaking,[460] of a date subsequent to Bruce's time, and much of it is later than the destruction which occurred under Richard II. in 1385.[461] "The nave, from the crossing to the rood loft, and part of the transepts are, undoubtedly, the oldest portions of the existing edifice. The work in these is, for the most part, of the Scottish decorated period. The nave piers, with their beautifully carved caps, and the mouldings of the arches are distinctly decorated work; and the flying buttresses and pinnacles on the south side of the nave are, without doubt, of the same period. So also is the south wall of the transept, with its magnificent window and tracery and its buttresses, enriched with fine canopies and quaint figures carved as corbels.
"All these features bear a close affinity to the decorated work of the nave of York Minster, erected about 1400. The flying buttresses, with pinnacles enriched with crockets and foliaged finials; the niches, with their elaborate canopies and corbels composed of figures of monks and angels; the statues which formerly filled the niches, of which very few now remain; the decorated tracery of the south transept window, and the whole character of the work, both in its general scope and in its details, is of fine decorated design, and vividly recalls that of York, Beverley, and other English examples. It is not improbable that some parts of the nave and transept were erected during the period between the death of King Robert Bruce and the invasion of Richard II. It should be mentioned that Bruce's bequest was not all received till 1399, and the operations also probably proceeded slowly. The doorway in the south wall of the south transept is apparently an insertion in older work."[462] The south chapels of the nave have apparently been added during the repairs in the earlier part of the fifteenth century; the buttresses were probably executed towards the middle of that century, and the east one contains the arms of Abbot Hunter.[463] There is a distinct change in the transept's design from that of the nave, as if the former had been added to the latter at a later period.[464] The east wall and the other eastern parts of the choir are more recent than the nave, and probably this portion of the church had been more damaged by Richard II. than the nave, and required to be almost wholly rebuilt. The style here corresponds closely with the "perpendicular" of England which prevailed in the fifteenth century.[465] The great eastern window is exceptional and unique, and has more of the character of perpendicular than any other style. Scott, referring to it, has described the moon as shining
Through slender shafts of shapely stone, By foliaged tracery combined; Thou would'st have thought some fairy's hand, Twixt poplars straight, the osier wand, In many a freakish knot, had twined; Then framed a spell, when the work was done, And changed the willow-wreaths to stone.
The design of the west wall of the north transept is different from that of the other parts of the building, but the clerestory windows are of the same design as the rest of the older church. "The wall ribs of the vaulting include two windows in each; and the space between the windows is occupied by two niches, each carried up from a shaft—with late canopies, containing statues of St. Peter and St. Paul, the former having the keys and the latter holding his sword. These are the best preserved statues in the church, but they are not of very remarkable workmanship."[466] The building or restoration of the eastern part of the edifice is regarded as indicating, from its style, work of the middle of the fifteenth century, and the vaulting of the south transept appears to have been erected by Abbot Hunter about the same time,[467] probably from 1450 to 1460. More of the vaulting in the eastern part of the nave may have been carried out at that epoch. The vaults all contain, besides the main and ridge ribs, subsidiary ribs, or tiercerons, indicating a similarity to English examples.[468]
The vaulting of the presbytery is peculiar, and points to a somewhat later time; examples of vaulting similar to that of the presbytery of Melrose may be seen at Winchester Cathedral, and other English examples of the fifteenth century.[469]
The south chapels to the west of the fifth buttress west from the transept, on which buttress another specimen of Abbot Hunter's arms is engraved, are of comparatively late date.[470] "This buttress belongs to the earlier part of the nave, and the chapel seems to have been repaired when the additional chapels to the west were erected. Besides the three hunting horns in the shield of Abbot Hunter in the examples above mentioned, the arms engraved on the fifth buttress contain two crosiers, saltierwise, and the initials A. H. on the right and left; also, in chief a rose, and in base a mason's mell for Melrose. The work in the chapels to the west is inferior to that of those to the eastward, although copied from them. The chapels each contain an enriched piscina, and these are so inferior in style of workmanship as to lead to the belief that they were inserted after the chapels were built. One of them contains the initials of Abbot William Turnbull, whose date is the beginning of the sixteenth century. A late piscina has also been inserted in the south transept.
"Work in the nave and in the south chapels was apparently in progress during the reign of James IV., as the royal arms, with the letters I. Q. (Jacobus Quartus) and the date 1505 on the westmost buttress testify."[471] On the south side of the cloister is a very lovely doorway that leads into the church. To the right of this and along the east wall of the cloister, are arched recesses of a late style, and in the south wall is an arcade of trefoil form, with nail-head enrichments. The latter is an example of the late revival of early forms which prevailed towards the close of the Gothic epoch.[472]
It has been stated that the arcade of the cloister formerly extended 150 feet each way. The cloister wall is now reduced to the portions which abut against the nave and transept—50 feet on the east side and 80 feet on the south side. "The former side contains a wall arcade of seven arches. These are of the form called drop arches, with crocketed ogee hood moulding, and have plain spandrils above, over which there runs a straight cornice, enriched with flowers and shells of all descriptions very beautifully carved."[473] Of these Sir Walter Scott said:—
Nor herb nor floweret glistened there But was carved in the cloister arches as fair.
The tower was doubtless erected about the same time as the transept.[474] In the south transept are two inscriptions that have given rise to much speculation and continue to exercise Border antiquaries. One of these is carved over the doorway in the west wall which gives access to the wheel stair, and part of the inscription is carried down one side for want of room. It is the following:—
Sa gays the cumpas evyn about, Sa trouth and laute. do but duite. Behald to ye hende q. Johne Morvo.[475]
The other inscription is carved on a tablet in the wall on the south side of the same door:—
John Morow sum tym callit was I And born in Parysse certanly And had in kepyng al masoun werk Of Santandroys ye hye kyrk Of Glasgw Melros and Paslay Of Nyddysdayll and of Galway I pray to God and Mari bath And sweet S. John kep this haly kirk frae skaith.
In the centre of the former inscription is a sunk panel containing a shield with two masons' compasses, arranged somewhat like a saltier, and beneath a figure resembling a fleur-de-lys.
The late Dr. John Smith, in the Proceedings of the Antiquarian Society of Scotland, considers these inscriptions as applying to one man, who may have been the master mason of the building. But Mr. Pinches, in his account of the abbey, mentions that John Murdo, or Morow, was engaged in building a church in Galloway in 1508. It thus seems likely that these inscriptions are not earlier than that date, and have been added to the building after its completion.[476]
An interesting view regarding John Morow will be found in A Mediaeval Architect, by Mr. P. MacGregor Chalmers. He believes that the south chapel of the transept was that of St. John, and as John Morrow's tablet is opposite this chapel, his prayer to "sweet St. John" is most appropriate. Mr. Chalmers also points out that the chapels at the east end of Glasgow Cathedral are dedicated to the same saints and in the same order as those in the east aisle of the transept at Melrose.[477]
Immediately beneath the site of the high altar at Melrose is the resting-place of the heart of Robert Bruce, and to the south of it is a dark-coloured polished slab of encrinital limestone said to mark the grave of Alexander II., who was buried near the high altar in 1249. Others maintain, however, that it marks the burial-place of St. Waltheof or Waldeve, who was the second abbot of the monastery founded by King David, and that it is the slab placed here by Ingram, Bishop of Glasgow (1164-1174).
The chancel was also the burial-place of the Douglases. The Douglas tombs were all defaced by Sir Ralph Evers in 1544. At the northern end of the north transept a small doorway leads into the sacristy, in which is the tombstone of Johanna, Queen of Alexander II., with the inscription "Hic jacet Johanna d. Ross." Melrose is the Kennaquhair of the Abbot and the Monastery.
CHAPTER VII
GENERAL SURVEY OF SCOTTISH MEDIAEVAL ARCHITECTURE
Mediaeval architecture of Scotland arranged according to the periods stated in Chapter II.:[478]—
Transition from Celtic to Norman Architecture:—Abernethy Round Tower, Perthshire (p. 7). Restennet Priory, Forfarshire (p. 7). St. Regulus, St. Andrews, Fifeshire (p. 18).
Norman Architecture:—Markinch Tower (Fifeshire). Present church modern, early church consecrated 1243; the tower is an ancient Norman building. Muthill Church (Perthshire), has Norman tower at the west end, with nave having north and south aisles and an aisleless choir. The church is now in ruins, and was built by Michael Ochiltree, who was Dean of Dunblane (1425) and Bishop (1430). St. Serf's, Dunning (Perthshire), has Norman tower, with elaborately carved and pointed archway opening from the tower into the church, which has been greatly altered. The W. gable wall of the church and part of the N. and E. wall are original. There appears to have been a chancel; the ancient corbels at N. parapet survive, and the raggle of the original roof is seen against the E. side of the tower. Church mentioned here in 1219 (ecclesia sancti servani de Dunnyne). Cruggleton Church (Wigtownshire), in ruins; has early Norman chancel arch and north doorway recently restored; the plan shows a simple oblong with chancel arch. Monymusk Church (Aberdeenshire), founded by Malcolm Canmore; remains of ancient Norman church in lower part of the tower and chancel arch, incorporated in modern church on old site. Ancient Celtic centre. St. Brandon's, Birnie (Morayshire), has nave and chancel without aisles; chancel has no window in E. wall, but round-headed windows in N. and S. walls; chancel arch has semicircular attached shaft with moulded base and heavy Norman cap, with numerous sub-divisions. Advanced date. Stone font of Norman design, and Celtic bell. St. Oran's Chapel, Iona (p. 65). St. Margaret's Chapel, Edinburgh Castle, comprises a nave with chancel arch and chancel, which has a round apse, formed within the square E. end of the exterior. The genuine surviving Norman masonry begins below the line of the S. windows; rest later work. Chancel has locker and piscina, chancel arch decorated with chevron design, nave arched roof is later than the walls. Chapel is a fairly advanced example of Norman work in plan and decoration. Dunfermline Abbey (p. 139). Kirkwall Cathedral (p. 69). St. Blane's Church (Bute) has oblong nave and chancel separated by lofty wall with chancel arch. Norman masonry in nave and chancel arch. Dalmeny Church (p. 102). Leuchars Church (p. 104). Bunkle Church (Berwickshire) has Norman work in ruined semicircular apse, with arch leading into it, and may be earlier than 12th century. Edrom Church (Berwickshire) has still surviving a Norman doorway of beautiful design, now an entrance to a burial vault. An aisle is attached to the church, and was founded by Archbishop Blackadder in 1499; two angle buttresses are of interest. Legerwood (Berwickshire) has attached to the parish church (old, but frequently repaired), and cut off by a wall, the roofless ruins of the original Norman chancel. A Celtic interlaced stone is built into the S. wall near the W. end. Chirnside (Berwickshire) has Norman work in the doorway of the ruined church, and at the sides there are remains of a projection, probably a porch. A western tower, vaulted in stone, was removed in 1750. St. Helen's Church (Berwickshire), near Cockburnspath, now in ruins, was a Norman structure, with the exception of the W. gable wall (14th or 15th century). It was barrel-vaulted throughout, and the N. chancel wall is entire. There is a narrow E. window. Tyninghame Church (Haddingtonshire) was one of the churches dedicated to St. Baldred; the structural remains exhibit elaborate ornamental work of the Norman style. Stobo Church (Peeblesshire) is a Norman structure, to which alterations and additions have been made in the 16th and 17th centuries. It was the church of a plebania, with subordinate churches. Duddingston (Mid-Lothian) is a Norman edifice, used since 12th century as the parish church. It has been much altered, originally consisting of nave, chancel, and perhaps tower, and the chancel arch is the only Norman feature now remaining in the interior. St. Andrew's Church, Gullane (Haddingtonshire), is now a roofless ruin, and was made collegiate in 1446. The semicircular chancel arch is almost the only part of the 12th century work now surviving. Uphall Church and St. Nicholas Church (Linlithgowshire). Uphall Church, consisting of nave, chancel, western tower, is a Norman structure throughout, much altered. When this became the parish church in the 16th century, St. Nicholas (one mile east) was abandoned. Two relics of it remain—the font, of which the basin is old, and the bell, now used in Uphall Church, and dated 1441. Abercorn (Linlithgowshire). A church was founded here in 675 under St. Wilfrid, and became the see of the earliest bishopric in Scotland from 681 to 685. The monks were forced to retire to Whitby, but the site was occupied by a church, and part of the existing structure (the round-headed doorway in S. wall) is of Norman date. The tympanum is filled with stones arranged in zig-zag patterns. The church has been altered in modern times; there are good specimens in the churchyard of hog-backed tombstones, with figures of fish scale pattern arranged in rows, and scales of a squarer shape. Kelso Abbey (p. 169).
St. Martin's Church (Haddington) is a very ancient chapel; a simple oblong; portion of barrel vault still exists; choir formerly existed; the arch is late Norman in design. Kirkliston Church, Linlithgowshire, has ancient tower and Norman doorways (S. and N.E.), and belonged originally to the Knights Hospitallers of St. John. St. Mary's, Ratho, Mid-Lothian, has Norman work preserved in doorway in S.W. wall. St. Peter's, Peterhead, Aberdeenshire, has chancel of Norman period. St. Mary's, Rutherglen, Lanarkshire, had a nave with side aisles and a chancel, but of the ancient church only a fragment now remains in the E. wall with eastern tower attached to it. The E. wall masonry indicates the Norman period, and the eastern tower, although built against, had no connection with the church, while it is of later erection by two or three centuries. Lamington Church (Lanarkshire) has the old N. doorway still preserved. St. Boswell's Church, Roxburghshire, has been entirely rebuilt, but has some relics of carved corbels and other fragments of Norman date. Smailholm Church, Roxburghshire, is distinctly a Norman structure throughout its entire length, although greatly altered in the 17th century. Linton Church, Roxburghshire, is old, but has been restored and renewed. There is a Norman font, and a sculpture in the tympanum of the ancient church doorway may possibly represent St. George and the Dragon, or Faith overcoming Evil. It was placed in 1858 over the entrance to a new porch then erected. Duns Church, Berwickshire, had the chancel of the ancient structure existing until 1874, when it was removed, and not a stone now remains. Its masonry, judged from a photograph, looks very like Norman work. St. Lawrence Church, Lundie, Forfarshire, was a Norman structure, of which little remains except the ashlar walls, a narrow window, and outside check for a shutter. The chancel arch was built up in 1786, when the apse appears to have been taken down; the top of a sacrament house of late date survives. Kirkmaiden Church, Wigtownshire, has a nave that appears to be of Norman date, and there is an apparent chancel at the east end, but its dimensions and origin are not distinct. Herdmanston Font, Haddingtonshire, is a relic of the Norman period, and stands in the burial vault of the Sinclairs of Herdmanston.
The Transition Style.—Dundrennan Abbey (Cistercian), Kirkcudbrightshire, was founded by David I. about 1142. Portions of N. and S. transepts, choir, chapter-house, some cellar walls and other walls, with a few carved caps now remain. Queen Mary was welcomed at the abbey after her flight from Langside, and embarked for England from Port Mary, at the mouth of the Abbey Burn. Jedburgh Abbey (p. 129). Kinloss Abbey (Cistercian), Morayshire, was founded by David I. in 1150, and colonised from Melrose. The enlightened Robert Reid, founder of the College of Edinburgh, was its abbot in 1528. Till 1650 the buildings were tolerably entire, and were then used to construct Cromwell's citadel at Inverness. The remains are now mere fragments. The Nunnery, Iona (p. 68). St. Nicholas Church, Aberdeen (p. 78). Coldingham Priory (Benedictine), Berwickshire, was founded or refounded in 1098 by Edgar, son of Queen Margaret, and dedicated to St. Cuthbert, S.S. Mary and Ebba. The canons of Durham controlled it until 1504, and in 1509 it was placed under the rule of Dunfermline. It suffered both from fire and its nearness to the Border; it was also damaged by Cromwell, and was afterwards used as a quarry. Little of the monastery now remains, and of the church only the N. and E. walls of the choir and fragments of the S. transept. In 1662 the W. and S. walls of the choir were rebuilt to make that part of the edifice suitable for worship, and in 1854-55 the choir was restored, its W. and S. walls being again partly rebuilt, S. porch added, and the corner turrets carried up to their present height. Stones are preserved of an earlier church than the existing one. Dryburgh Abbey (p. 134). Airth Church (Stirlingshire) dates from the period about the beginning of the 13th century, but only a small part of the early structure remains—a bay of what has been a nave arcade, opening into a north aisle. Lasswade Church, Mid-Lothian, had an old church, consisting of oblong chamber and tower. The S. wall doorway and tower reveal Transition work about first half of 13th century. Bathgate Church, Linlithgowshire, is now a ruin, being abandoned in 1739 for a new church. The doorway is almost the only feature of its architecture left, and its details are of transitional period. In the church is a recumbent statue.
First Pointed Period.—St. Andrews Cathedral and Priory (pp. 13, 123); St. Mary's, Kirkheugh, St. Andrews (p. 102); Arbroath Abbey (p. 177); Holyrood Abbey (p. 124). Kilwinning Abbey (Tironensian), Ayrshire, was erected on a site occupied in the 8th century by an Irish monk called St. Winnan, who is believed to be the same as St. Finnan of Moville. On the spot sanctified by his cell the monastery was erected in the 12th century by Richard or Hugh Moville, who came from England, was created by the Scottish king Great Constable of the Kingdom and presented with the lordships of Cuninghame, Largs, and Lauderdale. The church was erected early in 13th century. The buildings were destroyed shortly after the Reformation, and the parish church was erected on the site of the choir about 1775. The ruins consist of S. wall and gable of S. transept, one pier with respond and arch between S. transept and E. aisle; handsome door which led from nave to cloisters; entrance to the chapter-house from cloisters; long ancient wall which formed the wall of S. aisle of nave; some portions of W. end of nave and S.W. tower. The N. tower remained complete till this century, and a new tower has in recent times been erected on its site. Dunblane Cathedral (p. 47). Inchmahome Priory (Augustinian), Stirlingshire, was founded and endowed by Walter Comyn, fourth Earl of Menteith, and the church, which has striking resemblances in detail to the neighbouring cathedral of Dunblane, evidently dates about 1250. Inchmahome means Isle of Rest, and the church is fairly well preserved. In 1543 Queen Mary, as a child, found refuge here along with her mother after the battle of Pinkie, and stayed for some months. Dr. John Brown has charmingly written about the young queen's miniature or child's garden—a small flower plot, the boxwood edging of which has grown up into a thick shrubbery. Elgin Cathedral (p. 40). Pluscarden Priory (Valliscaulian), Morayshire, was, along with Beauly and Ardchattan, founded by Alexander II. for the Order of Vallis Caulium. Pluscarden is situated in a long, well-sheltered valley. About 1460, when the monks had become corrupt, they were superseded by the Black Benedictine monks from Dunfermline, and the priory became dependent on that house. The last prior was Alexander Dunbar, and the first lay prior Lord Seton. The existing buildings consist chiefly of the remains of the church—an aisleless choir N. and S. transepts with eastern aisles, and square tower. There is no nave. The monastic buildings consist of the sacristy, or St. Mary's aisle, the chapter-house, the slype, and monks' hall—the whole forming the E. side of the cloisters. To the S.E. of cloister garth is probably the prior's house. The oldest parts are transepts with eastern aisles, built doubtless soon after the foundation. Glasgow Cathedral (p. 22). Brechin Cathedral (p. 44). Lindores Abbey (Tironensian), Fifeshire, was founded in 1178 by David, Earl of Huntingdon, grandson of David I., and brother of King William the Lion. The church of Dundee belonged to the monks of Lindores, and the name Lindores is believed to mean "church by the water." Alexander III., Wallace, Edward I., David II. visited the abbey, and the Duke of Rothesay was buried in the church. James, Earl of Douglas, passed the last years of his life here. Two small coffins, found buried in the choir, are believed to have contained the remains of two children of Earl David, the founder. The buildings, entering from the E. side of the cloister, are the best preserved, and of the church little but the foundations and some portions of the wall survive. Adjoining S. transept is the vaulted slype, and the room over it may have been the scriptorium or library. The night passage of the monks led through that apartment, as the stair was in S.W. angle of transept, and could only be thus reached. Cambuskenneth Abbey (Augustinian), Stirlingshire, was founded by David I. about 1147. James III. and his queen, Margaret of Denmark, were interred before the high altar, and a stone altar monument has been erected over their remains by Queen Victoria. The detached tower at the W. is almost the only part remaining in a completed state; the W. doorway is nearly entire, as is also portion of gable wall and side walls at S.E. corner of the buildings. Culross Abbey (Cistercian) and Parish Church, Perthshire. The abbey was founded in 1217 by Malcolm, Earl of Fife, and considerable remains of that period, and some walls of what might be of earlier date, still survive, but principal parts of existing church are of later date. A few fragments of the monastic structure survive. The tower divides the E. from the W. church. The aisleless choir serves as parish church. The old parish church is a ruinous structure, about one mile N.W. from the abbey; plain oblong; in 1633 the abbey became the parish church. Beauly Priory (Valliscaulian), Inverness-shire, was founded in 1230 and endowed by Sir John Bisset of Lovat. The ruined church survives, but has been sadly abused. Monastic buildings have nearly disappeared. First Pointed was later here than elsewhere. Newbattle or Newbotle Abbey (Cistercian), Mid-Lothian, was founded by David I. in 1140 for monks brought from Melrose. It was a great house, and about 1350 its annual income could maintain eighty monks and seventy lay brethren, with the corresponding establishment. The last abbot was Mark Ker, and the lordship of Newbotle was conferred on his son. The abbey appears to have been almost abolished shortly after the Reformation, the only parts of the monastic buildings allowed to remain being the fratery and portions of the chapter-house, which were incorporated with the mansion-house. The nave of the church contained 10 bays; the choir and presbytery comprised 1-1/2 bay. The piers supported a tower over the crossing, and the architecture of the transepts was massive. Lismore Cathedral (p. 59). St. Kentigern's, Lanark, was ancient parish church; abandoned for new one about 1777. It consisted of two six-bayed aisles, each with a chancel, but without a nave; there remain the lofty pointed arches dividing the two aisles, the wall of the S. one, and a fragment of the chancels. In the S. wall is a beautiful doorway. Burntisland Church, Fifeshire, Prestonkirk, Haddingtonshire, Cowie, Aberdeenshire, also illustrate in whole or part this period. Deer Abbey (Cistercian), Aberdeenshire, was founded in 1218, and succeeded a church founded in 580 by St. Columba and his nephew Drostan. The conventual buildings now existing are subsequent in date to the founding of the abbey church (completed first), and this may account for the abbot demitting office in 1267, "choosing rather to live in the sweet converse of his brethren at Melrose than to govern an unworthy flock under the lowly roofs of Deir." Luffness Monastery, Redfriars, Haddingtonshire, was founded by Patrick, Earl of Dunbar, in 1286. The church consisted of nave and choir, without aisles; the choir has arched recess and much-worn effigy. The remains consist mostly of foundations. Tungland Abbey (Premonstratensian), Kirkcudbrightshire, was founded by Fergus, first lord of Galloway, in 12th century, and is now represented by only one doorway. Inchcolm Abbey (Augustinian), Fifeshire, was founded in 1123 by Alexander I., who had been driven ashore on the island by a storm, and was maintained with his followers for three days by a hermit who made Inchcolm his retreat. There is still a small cell covered with a pointed barrel vault, which may have been his abode. The island was the cradle of religion in E. Scotland, and may have been visited by St. Columba himself. Like Inchkeith, the Bass, Isle of May, and Fidra, it possesses early ecclesiastical remains. The island, like Iona, was celebrated as a place of burial. The monastic buildings date from 1216 chiefly; Walter Bower continued the Scotichronicon in the abbey. The ruins consist of the cloister court with church on N. side, and chapter-house beyond E. range. To the N. of the church was possibly the infirmary. The S.E. has cellars, stores, and offices. First Pointed work is also found at the churches of Deer; Auchindoir; St. Cuthbert's, Monkton; St. Nicholas, Prestwick; Altyre; St. Mary's, Rattray; Abdie; St. Ninian's on the Isle; St. Colmanel's, Buittle; Cockpen; Pencaitland; Gogar Font.
Middle Pointed or Decorated Architecture.—New Abbey or Sweetheart Abbey (Cistercian), Kirkcudbrightshire, was dedicated to the Virgin. It was called New Abbey because it was founded a considerable time after Dundrennan, which was regarded as the old abbey. The founder was Devorgilla, daughter of Allan, Lord of Galloway, wife of John Baliol of Castle Barnard in Yorkshire, and mother of King John Baliol. When her husband died in 1269, Devorgilla had his heart embalmed and placed in an ivory coffin, which she carried about with her; at her death it was buried with her in a grave in front of the abbey high altar, hence the touching name of Sweetheart Abbey. She endowed the abbey, founded Balliol College, Oxford, and built the bridge over the Nith at Dumfries, portions of which still survive. The abbey suffered much last century, but it has since been well cared for, and is in good preservation. Few of our ancient churches are so well preserved, and the ruins represent a period of Scottish Gothic of which not many examples survive. The conventual buildings have been almost entirely demolished, but the church is complete, although the roof is gone, and the walls are much damaged. It comprises a nave with two side aisles, a choir without aisles, N. and S. transepts (with eastern chapels opening off them), and a square tower over the crossing. The precinct—a level field of about 20 acres—surrounds the abbey, and is still partly enclosed with a strong wall, built with large blocks of granite. Melrose Abbey (p. 184). Lincluden College, Kirkcudbrightshire, was founded anew about the end of the 14th century by Archibald, the Grim, who expelled the nuns. It was a frequent residence of the Earls of Douglas, and consisted of choir separated from nave and transept by stone screen with wide doorway. The choir is aisleless, consisting of three bays; the nave had three bays with a window in each, and aisle on S. side. The architecture is of great beauty. Fortrose Cathedral (p. 52). Crossraguel Abbey (Cluniac), Ayrshire, was founded by the Earl of Carrick and dedicated to St. Mary. The last abbot, Quentin Kennedy, in 1562 held a famous dispute with John Knox at Maybole. The abbey was much associated with the Bruces. In 1570 occurred the cruel "roasting of the abbot." George Buchanan received a pension out of the abbey revenues, and King James intended to restore it as a residence for his son Henry. The abbey ruins comprise, with the remains of the church, cloisters, and usual buildings, an outer court to the S.W. with picturesque gate-house, pigeon-house, and domestic buildings. The church is a simple oblong with choir and nave, without aisles and transepts. St. Giles', Edinburgh (p. 89). St. Michael's, Linlithgow (p. 105). St. Monans, Fifeshire, derives its name from St. Monanus, a missionary of the 8th century, who suffered martyrdom by the Danes on the Isle of May. The original chapel was replaced about 1362 by the present edifice, which suffered much at the hands of the English, and has been altered. It consists of chancel, N. and S. transepts, with tower and spire over the crossing, and is still used as the parish church. It is picturesque and interesting. Whithorn Priory (p. 56). St. Mary's, Haddington (p. 107). Fearn Abbey (Premonstratensian), Ross-shire, was founded during the reign of Alexander II. Of it there now only remain a part of the church, and the ruins of some structures attached to it. The church is a simple oblong, and part of it is still used as the parish church. Balmerino Abbey (Cistercian), Fifeshire, was founded in 1229 by Ermengard, widow of William the Lion, and her son Alexander II. Ermengard was buried in the church before the high altar; she was a liberal benefactress, and her son was a frequent visitor at Balmerino. Bishop Leslie ascribes the demolition of the abbey in 1559 to "certain most worthless men of the common people," for the damage of 1547, when Admiral Wyndham "bornt the abbey with all thyngs that were in it," seems to have been much repaired. The abbey buildings are now in a ruinous state, only the chapter-house, with the erections adjoining it, being at all well preserved. To the E. of the chapter-house are the ruins of the abbot's house. The church is situated, as the mother church at Melrose, on the S. of the cloister, and consisted of nave with S. aisle, transepts with the usual eastern aisle, and short presbytery without aisles. St. Bride's College, Bothwell (p. 77). Temple Church, Mid-Lothian; the Chapel in Rothesay Castle; St. Bride's, Douglas, Lanarkshire; St. Duthus', Tain, Ross-shire; St. Peter's, Inverkeithing, Fife; St. Devenic's, Creich, Fife; Faslane Church, Argyleshire; the Monument of Sir W. Olifurd, Aberdalgie, Perthshire, also embody architecture of this period.
Third or Late Pointed Period.—Paisley Abbey (p. 148). Dunkeld Cathedral (p. 35). Iona Cathedral (p. 60). St. Machar's Cathedral (p. 37). Trinity College Church, Edinburgh, was situated on the W. side of Leith Wynd, and founded by Mary of Gueldres, Queen of James II., in 1462. It was a very fine specimen of Scottish Gothic architecture of the 15th century, and consisted of a choir with N. and S. aisles, a five-sided apse, N. and S. transepts, with the commencement of a tower over the crossing and N. sacristy. The nave was never erected—the arch having a circular window inserted in it. It was the church of Trinity College Parish till 1848, when it was removed to make way for the railway station. The new church is in many details an exact reproduction of the corresponding features of the original building. St. John's, Perth (p. 108). Dundee Church (p. 113). Glenluce Abbey (Cistercian), Wigtownshire, was founded in 1190 by Roland, Lord of Galloway; the chapter-house is the only portion of the abbey in good preservation. Torphichen Church, Linlithgowshire, represents the hospital or preceptory of Torphichen, from 1153 the principal Scottish residence of the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem. Of the cruciform church, the chancel and nave are entirely gone, and there is only left a portion of the transept or "quier." The modern church is on the site of the nave. St. Anthony's Chapel, Edinburgh—"Sanct Antonis in the crag"—stands conspicuous from the Firth of Forth, and was perhaps chosen with the intention of attracting the notice of seamen coming up the Firth, who, in cases of danger, might be induced to make vows to its tutelary saint. There is a fine spring of clear water close to the site, which may have led to the establishment of the hermitage there. Wall remains survive. Rosslyn Church (p. 85). Dunglass Collegiate Church, Haddingtonshire, is cruciform, and a deserted but complete edifice. The choir and tower may have been built in 1403, the nave after 1450. It was founded by Sir Alexander Home of Home. Foulis-Easter Church, Perthshire, is a simple, oblong structure without buttresses or projections of any kind; is well preserved and most interesting. It was built by Andrew, second Lord Gray. St. Salvador's, St. Andrews (p. 102). Dalkeith Church (Mid-Lothian) was constituted collegiate in the 15th century, and consists of a nave of three bays with aisles, N. and S. transepts, a W. tower, and aisleless choir of three bays with E. apse. Part is used as the parish church. St. Mungo's, Borthwick (Mid-Lothian) has been rebuilt, with the exception of the S. aisle or chapel, and the structure has originally been a Norman one, with aisleless nave, choir, and round E. apse. Ladykirk, Berwickshire, is very complete and almost unaltered. It is situated on the high N. bank of the Tweed, and is said to have been built in 1500, and dedicated to St. Mary by James IV. in gratitude for his delivery from drowning by a sudden flood of the Tweed. It is a triapsidal cross church, without aisles, with an apsidal termination at the E. end of the chancel and at the N. and S. ends of the transept. The body of the church and transepts are covered with pointed barrel vaults, with ribs at intervals springing from small corbels, and the whole is roofed with overlapping stone flags. The upper part of the tower has been rebuilt, the lower part being of the same date as the church, which is still the parish church. Seton Collegiate Church, Haddingtonshire, probably rebuilt about the close of the 15th century, was added to by the second Lord Seton when he made the church collegiate in 1493, and was completed by the third Lord Seton. The transepts, tower, and spire would appear to have been erected by the Dowager Lady Seton in the 16th century, after her husband's death at Flodden. Arbuthnott Church, Kincardineshire, is an interesting and picturesque structure, containing work of three distinct periods. The chancel was dedicated in 1242, and the nave may be in part of the same period. The S. wing or aisle was built by Sir Robert Arbuthnott in the end of the 15th century. The quaint W. end represents a combination of the ecclesiastical and domestic architecture of Scotland. The church has been well restored; the Arbuthnott Missal with the Psalter and office were written for the use of this church by the vicar, James Sybbald, about 1491. King's College, Aberdeen (p. 80). Church of the Holy Rood, Stirling (p. 114). St. Mary's Parish Church, Whitekirk, Haddingtonshire, was a great place of pilgrimage, and was visited among others by Pope Pius II. (AEneas Sylvius), who came to render thanks to the Virgin for his safe landing in Scotland. The church is on the plan of a cross without aisles; the choir is vaulted with a pointed barrel vault, and the roof is slated. Over the crossing is a square tower, finished with a plain parapet; the E. end is square, and there is a fine porch at the S.W. angle. The S.W. porch is one of the most striking features of the structure, and its interior is roofed with pointed barrel vaulting, having ribs springing from carved corbels. Third or late Pointed architecture is also found at Crichton Collegiate Church, Mid-Lothian; Corstorphine Collegiate Church, Mid-Lothian; Crail Collegiate Church, Fife; Mid-Calder Church, Mid-Lothian; St. Mary's Church of the Carmelite Friars, South Queensferry, Linlithgowshire; Yester Collegiate Church, Haddingtonshire; Tullibardine Collegiate Church, Perthshire; Maybole Collegiate Church, Ayrshire; Biggar Collegiate Church (p. 77); Carnwath Collegiate Church, Lanarkshire; St. Mary's Collegiate Church, Castle Semple, Renfrewshire; Church of the Franciscans or Greyfriars, Elgin, Morayshire, and at Aberdeen; Rowdil Priory (Augustinian), Harri, Inverness-shire; Oronsay Priory (Augustinian), Argyleshire.
Examples of Scottish mediaeval architecture are also to be found in the following churches, arranged alphabetically by counties. Aberdeenshire:—Kinkell, Kintore, Leask. Argyleshire:—Ardchattan and St. Mund's Collegiate Church, Kilmun. Ayrshire:—Alloway, Old Dailly, and Straiton. Banffshire:—Cullen Collegiate Church, Deskford, and Mortlach. Berwickshire:—Church of Abbey St. Bathans (Cistercian Nuns), Bassendean, Cockburnspath (an ancient structure), Preston. Buteshire:—Church of St. Mary's Abbey, Rothesay. Dumbartonshire:—Dumbarton Collegiate Church and Chapel at Kirkton of Kilmahew. Dumfriesshire:—Canonby Priory (Augustinian), Kirkbryde, St. Cuthbert's, Moffat; Sanquhar. Fifeshire:—Carnock, Dysart, Kilconquhar, Kilrenny, Rosyth, Dominican Church, St. Leonard's (p. 116), Holy Trinity (p. 117), St. Andrews. Forfarshire:—Airlie, Invergowrie, Mains, Maryton, Pert, St. Vigean's. Haddingtonshire:—Church of Trinity Friars, Dunbar, and Keith. Kincardineshire:—St. Palladius' Church, Fordoun. Kirkcudbrightshire:—Old Girthon. Lanarkshire:—Blantyre Priory (Augustinian), and Covington. Linlithgowshire:—Auldcathie. Mid-Lothian:—St. Triduan's Collegiate Church, Restalrig. Peeblesshire:—Newlands, Churches of Holy Cross and St. Andrew, Peebles. Perthshire:—Aberuthven; St. Moloc, Alyth; St. Mechessoc, Auchterarder; Cambusmichael; Abbey of Coupar (Cistercian); Dron Church, Longforgan; Ecclesiamagirdle or Exmagirdle, Glenearn; Forgandenny; Abbey of Inchaffray (Augustinian); Innerpeffray (Collegiate); Kinfauns; Methven (Collegiate); Moncrieff Chapel; Wast-town (near Errol). Renfrewshire:—Houston, St. Fillan's, and Kilmalcolm. Selkirkshire:—Selkirk. Wigtownshire:—St. Machutus' Church, Wigtown.
Mediaeval architecture terminated with the Reformation in 1560. In closing this necessarily brief record of our ancient Scottish churches, a word must be added on the Scottish Reformation. It was the aim of Knox to cleanse, not to destroy the temple, and the iconoclasm that followed was the work of the "rascal multitude," while many of the churches and abbeys were ruined by the attacks of the English before the Reformation, as the previous pages indicate. The old builders, too, did a great deal of what is now known as "scamped work," although it was partly counteracted by the excellence of their lime and the thickness of their walls. The real cause of the subsequent destruction was neglect, not violence, while the secularising of the old endowments alienated into other channels the means that were necessary to undo the effects of wind and weather. As Carlyle said, "Knox wanted no pulling down of stone edifices; he wanted leprosy and darkness to be thrown out of the lives of men," and it is known that he exerted himself to save the Abbey of Scone from destruction. In the case of Dunkeld Cathedral, the order makes it quite clear that neither desks, windows, nor doors, glass work nor iron work, was to be destroyed (pp. 36, 37). The aim of the reformers was at heart an endeavour to make the old temples fit symbols of the reformed faith, and the iconoclasm of the multitude is not to be attributed to them, but to the ignorance and savagery of the time, for which the Church of Rome was primarily to blame. It was this that lessened church feeling and separated the power of truth from the beauty of holiness. It is our privilege to-day to seek the unity of truth and goodness with beauty, to maintain the faith of the Reformation along with that beauty of church architecture which, in its brighter days, the old church witnessed to. It is a one-sided view which sees in Gothic nothing but the development of utility or the endeavour to attain greater height; it is the true view which beholds in it the ideality, piety, and faith that possessed the hearts of our forefathers. The architect's design could never have been realised apart from their offerings of devotion to the Christian religion. When Emerson visited Carlyle at Craigenputtock, the latter, pointing to the parish church, said to his American friend, "Christ's death built Dunscore Church yonder." It is a deep, true utterance, for Christ's death has built every church in Christendom, and these embodiments of beauty not least of all. In this light we see what is at the heart of these ancient Scottish churches, and what has created the affection that treasures them. The ruined walls of so many of them ought to have been the home of the reformed faith, life, and work, linking the present to the past by natural piety, and visibly reminding the worshippers of the church that endureth throughout all generations. The present revival of interest in them is like a new-discovered sense, and is undoing the spoliation and neglect of an age subsequent to the Reformation, and for which the Scottish Reformers are not to blame. Theirs was no easy work, and history has vindicated its results in the progressive genius of the Scottish people. The Reformation saved religion, but the alienation of the religious endowments to secular purposes, often by unworthy hands, is the chief cause of the ruins which tell of a beauty that has left the earth, and it has deprived the Church of so many of its venerable heirlooms. Otherwise there might have been said of the Scottish as was said of the English Reformation that but for it there would have been little Norman or Early English left in the cathedrals, for it just came at a time when the early styles were being pulled fast down to make room for the later.[479] It was the Scottish Reformers' aim to make all the churches parish churches, and each church the centre of the life and work of each parish. Their grievance against monasticism arose from the corrupt lives of the monks and from its intrusion on the parochial system with the alienation of the parish teinds to the use of the monastery. But the idea of a church in the centre of a residence, is one not without suggestiveness to the life of to-day, with its many activities, as a training home for workers; as a temporary retreat for rest, meditation, and prayer to the hard-wrought ministers in the city parishes; as a place for conference on the religious problems; as a theological hall and settlement for divinity students, like that at Loccum near Hanover, where a reformed mediaeval monastery, free from vows, and in the full vigour of its life, is used as a college and residence for the students of the Reformed Church, and where the old monastic church is used as the parish church for the people around. To visit Loccum and see it presided over by the venerable Protestant theologian, Dr. Ullhorn, with its garden, grounds, and farm, its church and cloisters, its great library and residence for professors and students, is to be persuaded of the rich possibilities that lie within the reach of the Scottish Church in the restoration of some of its ruined abbeys. The saintly Leighton felt the need of this, and thought "the great and fatal error of the Reformation was, that more of these houses and of that course of life, free from the entanglements of vows and other mixtures, was not preserved; so that the Protestant churches had neither places of education nor retreat for men of mortified tempers."[480] The Reformed Church would thereby purify a great idea, and if it be true, as the late Master of Balliol asserted, that it is the great misfortune of Protestantism never to have had an art or architecture,[481] it can restore and adopt the old architecture that was the creation of the Christian spirit, amid the leisure of the cloister and in times more restful than our own.
APPENDIX
DEFINITION OF LEADING ARCHITECTURAL TERMS[482]
Abacus—the flat member at the top of a capital. Apse—the semicircular space at the end of a building. Arcade—a series of arches; is usually applied to the small ornamental arches only. Barrel vault—resembling the inside of a barrel. Bead—a small round moulding. Boss—a projecting ornament in a vault at the intersection of the ribs. Canopy—the head of a niche over an image; also the ornamental moulding over a door or window or tomb. Capital, cap—the head of a column, pilaster, etc. Chamfer—a sloping surface forming the bevelled edge of a square pier, moulding, or buttress, when the angle is said to be chamfered off. Chevron—an inflected moulding, also called zigzag, characteristic of Norman architecture. Clere-story or clear-story—the upper story of a church, as distinguished from the triforium or blind story below it, in which the openings, though resembling windows, are usually blank or blind, not glazed. Corbel—a projecting stone to carry a weight, usually carved. Crocket—an ornament usually resembling a leaf half opened, and projecting from the upper edge of a canopy or pyramidal covering. The term is supposed to be derived from the resemblance to a shepherd's crook. Crypt—a vault beneath a church, generally beneath the chancel only, and sometimes used for the exhibition of relics. Cusp—an ornament used in the tracery of windows, screens, etc., to form foliation. Dormer—an upright window placed on a sloping roof, giving light to the chambers next the roof. Fillet—a small square band used on the face of mouldings. Finial—the ornament which finishes the top of a pinnacle, a canopy, or a spire, usually carved into a bunch of foliage. Flying buttress—an arch carried over the roof of an aisle from the external buttress to the wall of the clerestory, to support the vault. Gargoyle—a projected water-spout, often ornamented with grotesque figures. Jambs—the sides of a window opening or doorway. Mullion—the vertical bar dividing the lights of a window. Ogee—a moulding formed by the combination of a round and hollow. Pier arches—the main arches of the nave or choir resting on piers. Pinnacle—a sort of small spire usually terminating a buttress. Piscina—a water-drain in a church placed on the right-hand side of an altar for the use of the priest. Plinth—the projecting member forming the lower part of a base or of a wall. Shaft—a small, slender pillar usually attached to a larger one, or in the sides of a doorway or window. Slype—a passage leading from the transept to the chapter-house. String-course—a horizontal moulding or course of masonry, usually applied to the one carried under the windows of the chancel, both externally and internally. Tooth ornament—an ornament resembling a row of teeth, sometimes called dog's tooth and shark's tooth. Transept—the portion of a building crossing the nave and producing a cruciform plan. Transition—the period of a change of style, during which there is frequently an overlapping of the styles. Transom—the transverse horizontal piece across the mullions of a window. Triforium or blind story—the middle story of a large church, over the pier arches and under the clerestory windows; it is usually ornamented by an arcade, and fills the space formed by the necessary slope of the aisle roofs. Tympanum—the space between the flat lintel of a doorway and the arch over it, usually filled with sculpture.
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FOOTNOTES:
[1] Skene's Celtic Scotland, vol. ii. pp. 365, 366.
[2] Mediaeval Architecture, vol. i. p. 8.
[3] Ibid. pp. 8, 9, 26.
[4] Ibid. p. 145.
[5] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. i. pp. 1, 2.
[6] Ibid.
[7] Eccles. Arch. of Scot. vol. i. pp. 1, 2.
[8] Ibid. pp. 175-190.
[9] Ibid. p. 28.
[10] Ibid. p. 28.
[11] Ibid. p. 178.
[12] Eccles. Arch. of Scot. vol. i. p. 191.
[13] Ibid. p. 192.
[14] Ibid.
[15] Eccles. Arch, of Scot. vol. i. pp. 387, 388.
[16] Ibid. pp. 46, 47.
[17] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. ii. p. 1.
[18] Ibid. p. 3.
[19] Ibid. vol. i. p. 50.
[20] Scottish Abbeys and Cathedrals, pp. 68, 69.
[21] Ibid. p. 70.
[22] Eccles. Arch. of Scot. vol. ii. p. 332.
[23] Ibid. vol. i. p. 57.
[24] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. iii. pp. 1-7.
[25] Ancient Church and Parish of Abernethy, p. 95.
[26] Pictish Chronicle, p. 201.
[27] Amra Columcille, pp. 29, 63.
[28] Celtic Scotland, vol. ii. pp. 136, 137.
[29] Scott's Marmion.
[30] Celtic Scotland, vol. ii. p. 274.
[31] Celtic Scotland, vol. ii. pp. 309, 310.
[32] Scotichronicon, bk. iv. c. 12.
[33] Reg. Pri. S. And. App. p. xxxi.
[34] Reeves's British Culdees, p. 41.
[35] Church of Scotland: Past and Present, vol. ii. pp. 309, 310.
[36] Scottish Abbeys and Cathedrals, p. 34.
[37] Chronicle of the Picts and Scots, p. 191.
[38] Lecture II. p. 24.
[39] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. i. p. 190.
[40] Ibid. p. 186.
[41] Petrie's Round Towers and Ecclesiastical Architecture of Ireland.
[42] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. ii. pp. 6-8.
[43] Ibid. p. 6
[44] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. ii. p. 16.
[45] Ibid. p. 19.
[46] Ibid. p. 26.
[47] Celtic Scotland, vol. ii. pp. 184, 185.
[48] Celtic Scotland, ii. p. 186.
[49] Historians of Scotland, v. p. lxxxix.
[50] Vol. i. pp. 3-5.
[51] Sir James Marwick's Charters and Documents relating to the City of Glasgow, part i. p. dxxiii.
[52] Preface to Register, p. xxiv.
[53] Messrs. MacGibbon and Ross and Honeyman, architects.
[54] The Book of Glasgow Cathedral, p. 229.
[55] Ibid.
[56] The Book of Glasgow Cathedral, p. 231.
[57] Ibid. p. 274.
[58] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, ii. p. 160.
[59] Book of Glasgow Cathedral, p. 232.
[60] Registrum Epis. Glas. p. xxiv.
[61] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, ii. p. 161.
[62] Ibid.
[63] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, ii. p. 161.
[64] Book of Glasgow Cathedral, p. 267.
[65] Eccles. Arch. of Scotland, ii. p. 161.
[66] Ibid. pp. 161, 162.
[67] The Book of Glasgow Cathedral, p. 324.
[68] See Professor Laurie's Lectures, pp. 136, 137.
[69] Book of Glasgow Cathedral, pp. 292-302.
[70] Theiner, p. 505; Reg. Epis. Glasg. ii. 470-473, 543, 544.
[71] Book of Glasgow Cathedral, p. 265.
[72] MacGibbon and Ross, vol. ii. p. 162.
[73] Ibid.
[74] See p. 23.
[75] Book of Glasgow Cathedral, p. 108.
[76] Ibid. p. 277.
[77] Book of Glasgow Cathedral, p. 291.
[78] Ibid. p. 305.
[79] Ibid. p. 317.
[80] Ibid. p. 304.
[81] Sir James Marwick's Charters and Documents of Glasgow, part i. p. xli.
[82] Dr. Rankin, vol. ii. p. 315.
[83] Registrum Episcopatus Glasguensis.
[84] Complete list in Book of Glasgow Cathedral, pp. 190-197.
[85] Sir James Marwick's Charters, part. i. p. dxxiv.
[86] Ibid. p. v.
[87] Book of Glasgow Cathedral, pp. 375, 376.
[88] Ibid. p. 244.
[89] Mediaeval Architecture, vol. ii. p. 200.
[90] Book of Glasgow Cathedral, p. 252.
[91] MacGibbon and Ross, vol. ii. p. 172.
[92] Book of Glasgow Cathedral, pp. 239, 240.
[93] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. ii. p. 165.
[94] Celtic Scotland, vol. ii. p. 405.
[95] Ibid. p. 408.
[96] Myln's Lives of the Bishops of Dunkeld, p. 38.
[97] Ibid. p. 44.
[98] Myln's Lives of the Bishops of Dunkeld, p. 46.
[99] Ibid. p. 56.
[100] Ibid. p. 66.
[101] Scoti-Monasticon, pp. 216, 217.
[102] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. iii. p. 31.
[103] Ibid. p. 47.
[104] Registrum Episcopatus Aberdonensis, p. x.
[105] Ibid.
[106] Celtic Scotland, vol. ii. p. 379.
[107] Reg. p. xi.
[108] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. iii. p. 75.
[109] View of the Diocese of Aberdeen, p. 148.
[110] Ibid. p. 163.
[111] Ecclesiastical Architecture, vol. iii. p. 75.
[112] Scottish Abbeys and Cathedrals, p. 75.
[113] Ibid.
[114] Preface to Register, pp. xlii., xliii.
[115] Scottish Abbeys and Cathedrals, p. 75.
[116] Collections of the Shires of Aberdeen and Banff, p. 150.
[117] P. 104.
[118] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, p. 77.
[119] Scottish Abbeys and Cathedrals, p. 76.
[120] View of the Diocese of Aberdeen, p. 151.
[121] Ibid. p. 152.
[122] Registrum Episcopatus Moraviensis, p. xii.
[123] Celtic Scotland, vol. ii. p. 369.
[124] Registrum, pp. xiii and 40.
[125] Ibid. p. xiii.
[126] Ibid.
[127] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. ii. p. 121.
[128] P. xiii., No. 26.
[129] Register, No. 173, p. 204.
[130] Scottish Abbeys and Cathedrals, p. 52.
[131] Ecclesiastical Architecture, vol. ii. pp. 122, 123.
[132] Ibid. p. 125.
[133] Scottish Abbeys and Cathedrals, p. 50.
[134] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. ii. p. 145.
[135] Life, vol. ii. p. 437.
[136] Celtic Scotland, vol. ii. p. 397.
[137] Ibid.
[138] Ibid.
[139] Preface to the Brechin Register, p. vi.
[140] Celtic Scotland, vol. ii. p. 400.
[141] Ibid. pp. 400, 401.
[142] Dr. Rankin's History, vol. ii. p. 328.
[143] Celtic Scotland, vol. ii. p. 309.
[144] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. ii. p. 209.
[145] Miss Stokes, Early Christian Architecture, p. 73.
[146] Scotland in Early Christian Times, p. 45.
[147] Ordnance Gazetteer, vol. i. p. 187.
[148] Early Christian Architecture in Ireland, p. 5.
[149] Scotland in Early Christian Times, p. 41.
[150] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. ii. p. 213.
[151] Ibid. p. 212.
[152] Ibid.
[153] Black's Brechin, pp. 253, 254.
[154] Preface to Register, p. xvii.
[155] Celtic Scotland, vol. ii. p. 402.
[156] Catalogue of the Scottish Bishops, p. 174.
[157] Reeves' British Culdees, p. 141.
[158] MacGibbon and Ross, vol. ii. p. 86.
[159] Ibid. vol. i. p. 174.
[160] Ibid. vol. ii. p. 89.
[161] Lib. Ins. Missarum, preface, p. xxix.
[162] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. ii. p. 92.
[163] Ibid.
[164] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. ii. p. 102.
[165] Edinburgh Lectures.
[166] Keith's Scottish Bishops, pp. 177-180.
[167] MacGibbon and Ross, vol. ii. p. 107.
[168] Keith's Scottish Bishops, p. 175.
[169] History of His Own Times, vol. ii. p. 243.
[170] The Bishop's Walk, p. 7.
[171] Regist. de Dunf., p. 3.
[172] Reeves' Culdees, p. 46.
[173] The Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. ii. p. 395.
[174] Ibid. p. 399.
[175] Mr. Neale.
[176] His diary for 1571 is published in the Bannatyne Miscellany, vol. iii. pp. 113-156.
[177] Keith's Scottish Bishops, p. 198.
[178] Cosmo Innes's "Records of the Bishopric of Caithness," Bannatyne Miscellany, vol. iii. p. 3.
[179] Celtic Scotland, vol. ii. p. 383.
[180] Orig. Par. vol. ii. part ii. p. 601.
[181] Transactions of the Aberdeen Ecclesiological Society (1892), p. 36.
[182] Transactions of the Aberdeen Ecclesiological Society (1892), p. 40.
[183] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. ii. p. 482.
[184] Ibid. p. 485.
[185] Ibid. p. 486.
[186] Celtic Scotland, vol. i. p. 69.
[187] Ibid. vol. ii. p. 408.
[188] Dr. Rankin, vol. ii. p. 350.
[189] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. ii. p. 265.
[190] Celtic Scotland, vol. ii. pp. 83, 84.
[191] Ibid. p. 85.
[192] Celtic Scotland, vol. ii. pp. 85-102.
[193] They were thence taken to Ireland.
[194] Iona, pp. 84, 85.
[195] Celtic Scotland, vol. ii. p. 414.
[196] Register of the Great Seal (1634-1651), p. 708, No. 1903; Origines Parochiales, vol. ii. part i. p. 294.
[197] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. iii. p. 49.
[198] Ibid. pp. 57-59.
[199] Ibid. p. 74.
[200] Transactions.
[201] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. i. p. 421.
[202] Ibid. p. 426.
[203] Cf. Drummond's West Highland Monuments.
[204] Celtic Scotland, vol. ii. p. 92.
[205] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. i. p. 266.
[206] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. i. pp. 266-273.
[207] Ibid. p. 273.
[208] Dr. Joseph Robertson's Scottish Abbeys and Cathedrals, p. 39.
[209] Dr. Joseph Robertson's Scottish Abbeys and Cathedrals, p. 40.
[210] MacGibbon and Ross's Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. i. pp. 259-262.
[211] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. i. p. 273.
[212] Ibid. pp. 273-275.
[213] Ibid. p. 276.
[214] Ibid. p. 277.
[215] Ibid.
[216] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. i. p. 278.
[217] Ibid. p. 279.
[218] Ibid. p. 280.
[219] Ibid.
[220] Ibid.
[221] Ibid. p. 282.
[222] Ibid.
[223] Ibid. p. 284.
[224] Ibid.
[225] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. i. p. 288.
[226] Ibid. p. 289.
[227] Ibid. p. 290.
[228] Tennyson: A Memoir, vol. ii. p. 280.
[229] Vol. iii. pp. 181-196.
[230] Dr. Cooper's Introduction to Chartulary, pp. xxv.-xxvi.
[231] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. i. p. 426.
[232] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. i. pp. 427, 428.
[233] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. i. p. 431.
[234] Records of the University and King's College, Aberdeen, p. xv.
[235] Collections of the Shires of Aberdeen and Banff, p. 210.
[236] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. iii. pp. 287-289.
[237] Ibid. p. 295.
[238] Transactions of the Aberdeen Ecclesiological Society, sixth year (1891), p. 63 et seq. to p. 76.
[239] Sermons and Addresses, p. 29.
[240] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. iii. p. 151, also to p. 179.
[241] St. Giles, Edinburgh, Church, College, and Cathedral, p. 1.
[242] Of the early church, which stood on the site of the present St. Cuthbert's, Edinburgh, Dr. Skene has declared that "there is no doubt the church was founded by S. Cuthbert himself," and so there has been Christian worship there for over 1200 years (Rev. Dr. A. Wallace Williamson's paper in Aberdeen Ecclesiological Transactions, ninth year, p. 114).
[243] Charters of the Collegiate Church of St. Giles, p. iv.
[244] Ibid.
[245] Dr. Lees' St. Giles, Edinburgh, p. 3.
[246] Introduction to Charters, p. v.
[247] Ibid. p. vi.
[248] St. Giles, p. 4.
[249] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. ii. p. 419.
[250] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. ii. p. 420.
[251] Ibid.
[252] Ibid. p. 422.
[253] Ibid.
[254] Ibid.
[255] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. ii. p. 425.
[256] Dr Lees' St. Giles, p. 23.
[257] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. ii. p. 426.
[258] Ibid.
[259] Introduction to Charters, p. xiv.
[260] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. ii. p. 430.
[261] Introduction to Charters, p. xv.
[262] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. ii. p. 434.
[263] Ibid. p. 436.
[264] No. 77, p. 106.
[265] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. ii. p. 441.
[266] Dr. Laing's Introduction to Charters, p. xxx.
[267] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. ii. p. 445.
[268] Ib. p. 446
[269] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, pp. 445-449.
[270] Intro. to Charters, p. xix.
[271] Dr. Lees' St. Giles, p. 273.
[272] Dr. Lees' St. Giles, p. 117.
[273] Ibid. pp. 124, 125.
[274] Calderwood's History, vol. iii. pp. 73, 257.
[275] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. ii. p. 454.
[276] St. Giles, p. 262.
[277] Very Rev. Dr. Cameron Lees.
[278] St. Giles, p. 270.
[279] Ibid. p. 214.
[280] Rankin, vol. ii. p. 361.
[281] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. iii. p. 199.
[282] Scottish Abbeys and Cathedrals, p. 36.
[283] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. i. pp. 298-309.
[284] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. i. pp. 313, 314.
[285] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. ii. p. 455.
[286] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, pp. 455-470.
[287] Fergusson's History of Architecture, vol. ii. p. 222.
[288] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. ii. p. 493.
[289] Hay's Sacra Scotia, p. 323.
[290] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. iii. p. 109.
[291] Rev. John Fergusson of Aberdalgie in Scottish Antiquary, January 1897, p. 137.
[292] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. iii. p. 116.
[293] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. iii. p. 116.
[294] Ibid. p. 121, and Lord High Treasurer's Accounts.
[295] Ibid. p. 122.
[296] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. iii. p. 125.
[297] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. iii. p. 132.
[298] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. iii. p. 330.
[299] Ibid. p. 138.
[300] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. iii. p. 450.
[301] Ibid. p. 450
[302] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. iii. p. 451.
[303] Ibid.
[304] Ibid.
[305] Professor Mitchell's Scottish Reformation, p. 96.
[306] The Works of John Knox, vol. i. p. 228.
[307] Sketches of Early Scotch History, p. 10.
[308] Ibid. p. 11.
[309] Ibid. p. 18.
[310] Scottish Abbeys and Cathedrals, p. 27.
[311] Modern Painters, vol. i. p. 23.
[312] Ibid. vol. iii. p. 44.
[313] Ibid. vol. v. p. 206.
[314] Oxford Lectures, p. 27.
[315] Montalembert's Monks of the West, vol. ii. pp. 40, 41.
[316] The Augustinian order had also monasteries at Scone, Inchcolm, Lochleven, Isle of May, and Pittenweem, Blantyre, Cambuskenneth, Restennet, Canonby, and Inchaffray, as well as smaller houses at Loch Tay, Portmoak, Monymusk, St. Mary's Isle Priory at Trail, Rowadil, Oronsay, Colonsay, Inchmahome, Rosneath, Strathfillan, Scarinche, Abernethy (Perthshire); the Premonstratensian order had also abbeys at Saulseat, Holywood, Whithorn, Tongland, Fearn; the Benedictine order had also abbeys at Coldingham and Urquhart; the Cluniacensian order had also abbeys at Crossraguel, Fail, and Dalmulin; the Tyronensian order had also abbeys at Lesmahagow, Kilwinning, Lindores, Iona, and smaller houses at Dull, Fyvie, Inchkenneth, Rothesay (St. Mary's); the Cistercian order had also abbeys at Newbattle, Dundrennan, Kinloss, Deir, Cupar, Glenluce, Culross, Balmerino, Sweetheart, and smaller houses at Saddel, Friars Carse (near Dumfries), Hassendean, Mauchline, Cadvan (in Dunbog), and Holm Cultram; the order of Vallis Caulium had priories at Pluscardine, Beauly, and Ardchattan; the Carthusians had houses at Perth and Makerstone (Roxburghshire). There were 14 religious houses belonging to the Trinity Friars, 12 to the Carmelites, 18 to the Dominicans, 7 to the Franciscans, 13 to the Observantines, 6 to the Knights of Malta, 16 to the Knights Templars.
[317] Scottish Ordnance Gazetteer, vol. vi. p. 300.
[318] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. ii. p. 54 et seq. to p. 72.
[319] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. ii. p. 68.
[320] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. ii. p. 71.
[321] Ibid. pp. 71, 72.
[322] Gordon's Monasticon, p. 156.
[323] Gordon's Monasticon, p. 158.
[324] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. i. p. 401 et seq. to p. 414.
[325] Ibid. p. 403.
[326] Gordon's Monasticon, p. 254.
[327] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. i. p. 448.
[328] Monasticon, p. 324.
[329] Ibid. p. 340.
[330] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. i. p. 451 et seq. to p. 464.
[331] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. i. p. 462.
[332] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. i. p. 464.
[333] Introduction to Registrum de Dunfermlyn, p. 25.
[334] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. i. p. 231.
[335] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. i. p. 231.
[336] Introduction to Registrum, p. 25.
[337] Monasticon, p. 404.
[338] Registrum, p. 25.
[339] Monasticon, pp. 411, 412.
[340] The Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. i. p. 234.
[341] Ibid. pp. 234, 238.
[342] Ibid. p. 238.
[343] Ibid.
[344] Ibid.
[345] Scottish Abbeys and Cathedrals, pp. 33, 34.
[346] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. i. p. 238.
[347] Ibid. p. 241.
[348] Ibid.
[349] Ibid.
[350] Ibid. p. 242.
[351] Lindsay's Chronicle of Scotland, vol. ii. p. 555.
[352] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. i. p. 245.
[353] Ibid.
[354] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. i. pp. 246-249.
[355] Ibid. pp. 251, 252.
[356] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. i. pp. 252-254.
[357] History, vol. i., year 1303-1304.
[358] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. i. p. 254.
[359] See p. 144.
[360] Ecc. Arch. of Scot. vol. i. pp. 254-256.
[361] The Abbey of Paisley, pp. 1, 2.
[362] Scotland in the Middle Ages, p. 114.
[363] Historical Sketches, p. 109.
[364] The Abbey of Paisley, pp. 26, 27.
[365] Kingsley's Roman and Teuton, pp. 204-206.
[366] The Abbey of Paisley, pp. 58, 59.
[367] Ibid. p. 63.
[368] Ibid. p. 65.
[369] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. iii. p. 8.
[370] The Abbey of Paisley, p. 91.
[371] Ibid. p. 91.
[372] The Abbey of Paisley, p. 96.
[373] Ibid. p. 109.
[374] The Abbey of Paisley, p. 117.
[375] Ibid. p. 120.
[376] Page 19.
[377] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. iii. p. 8.
[378] The Abbey of Paisley, p. 142.
[379] A Scots Mediaeval Architect, by P. MacGregor Chalmers, pp. 14, 15 (Scots Lore).
[380] The Abbey of Paisley, pp. 144, 145.
[381] The Abbey of Paisley, pp. 159, 160.
[382] Ibid. p. 165.
[383] The Abbey of Paisley, p. 205.
[384] See Laing's Knox.
[385] The Abbey of Paisley, pp. 228, 229.
[386] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. iii. pp. 10-26.
[387] Ibid. p. 13.
[388] Ibid.
[389] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. iii. p. 16.
[390] Ibid.
[391] Ibid.
[392] Ibid.
[393] Ibid. p. 21.
[394] Ibid.
[395] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. iii. p. 21.
[396] The Abbey of Paisley, p. 166.
[397] Ibid. p. 209.
[398] Ibid.
[399] The Abbey of Paisley, pp. 211, 212.
[400] Ibid. p. 212.
[401] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. iii. pp. 25, 26.
[402] Ibid. p. 168.
[403] The Abbey of Paisley, p. 214.
[404] The Abbey of Paisley, p. 215.
[405] Ibid. p. 206.
[406] Ibid. p. 337.
[407] Ibid. p. 338.
[408] Ibid.
[409] The Abbey of Paisley, p. 339.
[410] Ibid. p. 340.
[411] Introduction to Reg. Cart. de Kelso, i. p. viii.
[412] Ibid.
[413] Ibid. p. xli.
[414] Ibid. pp. viii-xvi.
[415] Ibid. p. xliv.
[416] Introduction to Reg. Cart. de Kelso, pp. xliii, xliv.
[417] Roxburgh, Selkirk, and Peebles, by Sir George Douglas, Bart., pp. 284, 285.
[418] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. i. pp. 350-352.
[419] Ibid. p. 352.
[420] Introduction to Chartulary, p. xlix.
[421] Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, vol. i. pp. 353-361.
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