Engine oil however should be but little lower in quality than the cylinder oil, owing to the proximity of the bearings to the boiler, they are at all times more or less heated, and require a much heavier oil than a journal subject only to the heat of its own friction. The Renown Engine Oil has the peculiarity of body or lasting qualities combined with the fact that it does not gum on the hot iron and allows the engine to be wiped clean.



INJECTORS

The next in the list of inquiries was for a reliable injector. I was not surprised at this for up to a few years ago there were a great many engines running throughout the country with only the independent or cross-head pump, and engineers wishing to adopt the injector naturally want the best, while others had injectors more or less unsatisfactory. In replying to these letters I recommend one of three or four different makes (all of which I had found satisfactory) with a request that the party asking for same should write to me if the injector proved unsatisfactory in any way. Of all the letters received, I never got one stating any objection to either the Penberthy or the Metropolitan. This fact has led me to think that probably my reputation as a judge of a good article was safer by sticking to the two named, which I shall do until I know there is something better. This does not mean that there are not other good injectors, but I am telling you what I know to be good, and not what may be good. The fact that I never received a single complaint from either of them was evidence to me that the makers of these two injectors are very careful not to allow any slighting of the work. They therefore get out no defective injectors. The Penberthy is made by The Penberthy Injector Co., of Detroit, Mich., and the Metropolitan by The Hayden & Derby Mfg. Co., New York, N. Y.



SIGHT FEED LUBRICATOR

These come next in the long list of inquiries and wishing to satisfy myself as to the relative superiority of various cylinder Lubricators, I resorted to the same method as persued in regard to injectors. This method is very satisfactory to me from the fact that it gives us the actual experience of a class of engineers who have all conditions with which to contend, and especially the unfavorable conditions. I have possibly written more letters in answer to such questions as: "Why my Lubricator does this or that; and why it don't do so and so?" than of any other one part of an engine, (as a Sight Feed Lubricator might in this day be considered a part of an engine.) Of all the queries and objections made of the many Lubricators, there are two showing the least trouble to the operator. There are the Wm. Powell Sight Feed Lubricator (class "A") especially adapted to traction and road engines owing to the sight-glass being of large diameter, which prevents the drop touching the side of glass, while the engine is making steep grades and rough uneven roads, made by The Wm. Powell Co., Cincinnati, O., and for sale by any good jobbing house, and the Detroit Lubricator made by the Detroit Lubricator Co., of Detroit, Mich. I have never received a legitimate objection to either of these two Lubricators, but I received the same query concerning both, and this objection, if it may be called such, is so clearly no fault of the construction or principle of the Lubricator that I have concluded that they are among if not actually the best sight feed Lubricator on the market to-day. The query referred to was: "Why does my glass fill with oil?" Now the answer to this is so simple and so clearly no fault of the Lubricator that I am entirely satisfied that by recommending either of these Lubricators you will get value received; and here is a good place to answer the above query. If you have run a threshing engine a season or part of a season you have learned that it is much easier to get a poor grade of oil than a good one, yet your Lubricator will do this at times even with best of oil, and the reason is due to the condition of the feed nozzle at the bottom of the feed glass. The surface around the needle point in the nozzle becomes coated or rough from sediment from the oil. This coating allows the drop to adhere to it until it becomes too large to pass up through the glass without striking the sides and the glass becomes blurred and has the appearance of being full of oil, so in a measure to obviate this Powell's Lubricators are fitted with 3/4 glasses-being of large internal diameter. The permanent remedy however is to take out the glass and clean the nozzle with waste or a rag, rubbing the points smooth and clean. The drop will then release itself at a moderate size and pass up through the glass without any danger of striking the sides. However, if the Lubricator is on crooked it may do this same thing. The remedy is very simple-straighten it up. While talking of the various appliances for oiling your engine you will pardon me if I say that I think every traction engine ought to be supplied with an oil pump as you will find it very convenient for a traction engine especially on the road. For instance, should the engine prime to any great extent your cylinder will require more oil for a few minutes than your sight feed will supply, and here is where, your little pump will help you out. Either the Detroit or Powell people make as good an article of this kind as you can find anywhere, and can furnish you either the glass or metal body.

Hard Grease and a good Cup come next. In my trips over various parts of the country I visit a great many engineers and find a great part of them using hard grease and I also find the quality varying all the way from the very best down to the cheapest grade of axle grease. The Badger Oil I think is the best that can be procured for this purpose, and while I do not know just who makes it, you will probably have but little trouble in finding it, and if you are looking for a first class automatic cup for your wrist pin or crank box get the Wm. Powell Cup from any jobbing supply house.

These people also make a very neat little attachment for their Class "A" Lubricator which is a decided convenience for the engineer, and is called a "Filler." It consists of a second reservoir or cup, of about the same capacity of the reservoir of Lubricator, thus doubling the capacity. It is attached at the filling plug, and is supplied with a fine strainer, which catches all dirt, and grit, allowing only clear oil to enter the lubricator, and by properly manipulating the little shut-off valve the strainer can be removed and cleaned and the cup refilled without disturbing the working of the Lubricator. This little attachment will soon be in general use.

BOILER FEEDERS

Injectors have a dangerous rival in the Moore Steam Pump or boiler feeder for traction engines, and the reason this little pump is not in more general use is the fact that among the oldest methods for feeding a boiler is the independent steam pump and they were always unsatisfactory from the fact that they were a steam engine within themselves, having a crank or disc, flywheel, eccentric, eccentric yoke, valve, valve stem, crosshead, slides, and all the reciprocating parts of a complete engine. Being necessarily very small, these parts of course are very frail and delicate, were easily broken or damaged by the rough usage to which they were subjected while bumping around over rough roads on a traction engine. The Moore Pump, manufactured by The Union Steam Pump Company, of Battle Creek, Mich., is a complete departure from the old steam engine pump, and if you take any interest in any of the novel ways in which steam can be utilized send to them for a circular and sectional cuts and you can spend several hours very profitably in determining just how the direct pressure from the boiler can be made to drive the piston head the full stroke of cylinder, open exhaust port, shift the valve open steam port and drive the piston back again and repeat the operation as long as the boiler pressure is allowed to reach the pump and yet have no connection whatever with any of the reciprocating parts of the pump, and at the same time lift and force water into the boiler in any quantity desired.

Another novel feature in this "little boiler feeder" is that after the steam has acted on the cylinder it can be exhausted directly into the feed water, thus utilizing all its heat to warm the water before entering the boiler. Now it required a certain number of heat units to produce this steam which after doing its work gives back all its heat again to the feed water and it would be a very interesting problem for some of the young engineers, as well as the old ones, to determine just what loss if any is sustained in this manner of supplying a boiler. If you are thinking of trying an independent pump, don't be afraid of this one. I take particular pride in recommending anything that I have tried myself, and know to be as recommended.

And a boiler feeder of this kind has all the advantage of the injector, as it will supply the boiler without running the engine, and it has the advantage over the injector, in not being so delicate, and will work water that can not be handled by the best of injectors.

We have very frequently had this question put to us: "Ought I to grease my gearing?" If I said "yes," I had an argument on my hands at once. If I said "no," some one would disagree just as quickly, and how shall I answer it to the satisfaction of most engineers of a traction engine?

I always say what I have to say and stay by it until I am convinced of the error. Now some of you will smile when I say that the only thing for gear where there is dust, is "Mica Axle Grease." And you smile because you don't know what it is made of, but think it some common grease named for some old saint, but that is not the case. If these people who make this lubricant would give it another name, and get it introduced among engineers, nothing else would be used. You have seen it advertised for years as an axle grease and think that is all it is good for; and there is where you make a mistake. It is made of a combination of solid lubricant and ground or pulverized mica, that is where it gets its name, and nothing can equal mica as a lubricant if you could apply it to your gear; and to do this it has been combined with a heavy grease. This in being applied to the gear retains the small particles of mica, which soon imbed themselves in every little abrasion or rough place in the gearing, and the surface quickly becomes hard and smooth throughout the entire face of the engaging gear, and your gear will run quiet, and if your gearing is not out of line will stop cutting if applied in time.

It will run dry and dust will not collect on the surface of your cogs, and after a coating is once formed it should never be disturbed by scraping the face of the gear, and a very little added from time to time will keep your gear in fine shape. Its name is against it and if the makers would take a tumble to themselves and call it "Mica Oil" or some catchy name and get it introduced among the users of tight gearing, they would sell just as much axle grease and all the grease for gearings.

FORCE FEED OILER

Force feed oiler come next on the list. This is something not generally understood by engineers of traction and farm engines, and accounts for it being so far down the list. But we think it will come into general use within a few years, as an oiler of this kind forces the oil instead of depending on gravity.

The Acorn Brass Works of Chicago make a very unique and successful little oiler which forces a small portion of oil in a spray into the valve and cylinder, and repeats the operation at each stroke of the engine, and is so arranged that it stops automatically as soon as the oil is out of the reservoir; and at once calls the attention of the engineer to the fact, and it can be regulated to throw any quantity of oil desired. Is made for any size or make of engine.

SPEEDER

One of the little things, that every engineer ought to have is a Motion counter or speeder. Of course, you can count the revolutions of your engine, but you frequently want to know the speed of the driven pulley, cylinder for instance: When you know the exact size of engine pulley and your cylinder pulley, and the exact speed of your engine, and there was no such thing as the slipping of drive belt, you could figure the speed of your cylinder, but by knowing this and then applying the speeder, you can determine the loss by comparing the figured speed with the actual speed shown by the speeder. If you have a good speeder you can make good use of it every day you run machinery. If you want one you want the best and there is nothing better than the one made by The Tabor Manufacturing Co., of Philadelphia, Pa. We use no other. You will see their advertisement in the American Thresherman.

SPARK ARRESTER

But one article in the entire list did I find to be sectional, and that was for a spark arrester. These inquiries were all without exception from the wooded country, that is, from a section where it is cheaper to burn wood than coal. There is nothing strange that parties running engines in these sections should ask for a spark arrester, as builders of this class of engines usually supply their engines with a "smoke stack", with little or no reference to safety from fire. This being recognized by some genius in one of our wooded states who has profited by it and has produced a "smoke stack" which is also a "spark arrester." This stack is a success in every sense of the word, and is made for any and all styles of farm and saw mill engines. It is made by the South Bend Spark Arrester Co., of South Bend, Indiana, and if you are running an engine and firing with wood or straw, don't run too much risk for the engineer usually comes in for a big share of the blame if a fire is started from the engine. And as the above company make a specialty of this particular article, you will get something reliable if you are in a section where you need it.

LIFTING JACK

Next comes enquiries for a good lifting Jack.

This would indicate that the boys had been getting their engine in a hole, but there are a great many times when a good Jack comes handy, and it will save its cost many times every season.

Too many engineers forget that when he is fooling around that he is the only one losing time. The facts are the entire crew are doing nothing, besides the outfit is making no money unless running.

You want to equip yourself with any tool that will save time.

The Barth Mfg, Co., of Milwaukee, make a Jack especially adapted to this particular work, and every engine should have a "mascot" in the shape of a lifting Jack.

Now before dropping the subject of "handy things for an engineer," I want to say to the engineer who takes pride in his work, that if you would enjoy a touch of high life in engineering, persuade your boss, if you have one, to get you a Fuller Tender made by the Parson's Band Cutter and Feeder Co., Newton, Iowa, and attach to your engine. It may look a little expensive, but a luxury usually costs something and by having one you will do away with a great deal of the rough and tumble part of an engineers life.

And if you want to keep yourself posted as to what is being done by other threshermen throughout the world, read some good "Threshermen's Home journal." The American Thresherman for instance is the "warmest baby in the bunch." And if anything new under the sun comes out you will find it in the pages of this bright and newsy journal. Keep to the front in your business. Your business is as much a business as any other profession, and while it may not be quite as remunerative as a R. R. attorney, or the president of a life insurance company it is just as honorable, and a good engineer is appreciated by his employer just as much as a good man in any other business. A good engineer can not only always have a job, but he can select his work. That is if there is any choice of engines in a neighborhood the best man gets it.

SOMETHING ABOUT PRESSURE

Now before bringing this somewhat lengthy lecture to a close, (for I consider it a mere lecture, a talk with the boys) I want to say something more about pressure. You notice that I have not advocated a very high pressure; I have not gone beyond 125 lbs. and yet you know and I know that very much higher pressure is being carried wherever the traction engine is used, and I want to say that a very high pressure is no gauge or guarantee of the intelligence of the engineer. The less a reckless individual knows about steam the higher pressure he will carry. A good engineer is never afraid of his engine without a good reason, and then he refuses to run it. He knows something of the enormous pressure in the boiler, while the reckless fellow never thinks of any pressure beyond the I00 or I40 pounds that his gauge shows. He says, "'O! That,' that aint much of a pressure, that boiler is good for 200 pounds." It has never dawned on his mind (if he has one) that that I40 pounds mean I40 pounds on every square inch in that boiler shell, and I40 on each square inch of tube sheets. Not only this but every square inch in the shell is subjected to two times this pressure as the boiler has two sides or in other words, each square inch has a corresponding opposite square inch, and the seam of shell must sustain this pressure, and as a single riveted boiler only affords 62 per cent of the strength of solid iron. It is something that every engineer ought to consider. He ought to be able to thoroughly appreciate this almost inconceivable pressure. How many engineers are today running 18 and 20 horse power engines that realizes that a boiler of this diameter is not capable of sustaining the pressure he had been accustomed to carry in his little 26 or 30 inch boiler? On page 114 You will get some idea of the difference in safe working pressure of boilers, of different diameters. On the other hand this is not intended to make you timid or afraid of your engine, as there is nothing to be afraid of if you realize what you are handling, and try to comprehend the fact that your steam gauge represents less than one 1-1000 part of the power you have under your management. You never had this put to you in this light before, did you?

If you thoroughly appreciate this fact and will try to comprehend this power confined in your boiler by noting the pressure, or power exerted by your cylinder through the small supply pipe, you will soon be an engineer who will only carry a safe and economical pressure, and if there comes a time when it is necessary to carry a higher pressure, you will be an engineer who will set the pop back again, when or as soon as this extra pressure is not necessary.

If I can get you to comprehend this power proposition no student of "Rough and Tumble Engineering" will ever blow up a boiler.

When I started out to talk engine to you I stated plainly that this book would not be filled up with scientific theories, that while they were very nice they would do no good in this work. Now I am aware that I could have made a book four times as large as this and if I had, it would not be as valuable to the beginner as it is now.

From the fact that there is not a problem or a question contained in it that any one who has a common school education can not solve or answer without referring to any textbooks The very best engineer in the country need not know any more than he will find in these pages. Yet I don't advise you to stop here, go to the top if you have the time and opportunity. Should I have taken up each step theoretically and given forms, tables, rules and demonstrations, the young engineer would have become discouraged and would never have read it through. He would have become discouraged because he could not understand it. Now to illustrate what I mean, we will go a little deeper and then still deeper, and you will begin to appreciate the simple way of putting the things which you as a plain engineer are interested in.

For example on page 114 we talked about the safe working pressure of different sized boilers. It was most likely natural for you to say "How do I find the safe working pressure?" Well, to find the safe working pressure of a boiler it is first necessary to find the total pressure necessary to burst the boiler. It requires about twice as much pressure to tear the ends out of a boiler as it does to burst the shell, and as the weakest point is the basis for determining the safe pressure, we will make use of the shell only.

We will take for example a steel boiler 32 inches in diameter and 6 ft. long, 3/8 in. thick, tensile strength 60,000 lbs. The total pressure required to burst this shell would be the area exposed times the pressure. The thickness multiplied by the length then by 2 (as there are two sides) then by the tensile strength equals the bursting pressure: 3/8 x 72 X 2 x 60,000 = 3,240,000 the total bursting pressure and the pressure per square inch required to burst the shell is found by dividing the total bursting pressure 3,240,000 pounds by the diameter times the length 3,240,000 / (32 x 72) = 1406 lbs.

It would require 1406 lbs. per square inch to burst this shell if it were solid, that is if it had no seam, a single seam affords 62 per cent of the strength of shell, 1406 x .62 = 871 lbs. to burst the seam if single riveted; add 20 per cent if double riveted.

To determine the safe working pressure divide the bursting pressure of the weakest place by the factor of safety. The United States Government use a factor of 6 for single riveted and add 20 per cent for double riveted, 871 / 6 = 145 lbs. the safe working pressure of this particular boiler, if single riveted and 145 + 20 per cent=174 double riveted.

Now suppose you take a boiler the same length and of the same material, but 80 inches in diameter. The bursting pressure would be 3,240,000 / (80 x 72) = 560 lbs., and the safe working pressure would be 560 / 6 = 93 lbs.

You will see by this that the diameter has much to do with the safe working pressure, also the diameter and different lengths makes a difference in working pressure.

Now all of this is nice for you to know, and it may start you on a higher course, it will not make you handle your engine any better, but it may convince you that there is something to learn.

Suppose we give you a little touch of rules, and formula in boiler making.

For instance you want to know the percent of strength of single riveted and double riveted as compared to solid iron. Some very simple rules, or formula, are applicable.

Find the percent of strength to the solid iron in a single-riveted seam, 1/4 inch plate, 5/8 inch rivet, pitched or spaced 2 inch centers. First reduce all to decimal form, as it simplifies the calculation; 1/4=.25 and 5/8 inch rivets will require 11/16 inch hole, this hole is supposed to be filled by the rivet, after driving, consequently this diameter is used in the calculation, 11/16 inches=.6875.

First find the percent of strength of the sheet.

P-D ——- The formula is P = percent.

P = the pitch, D = the diameter of the rivet hole, percent = percent of strength of the solid iron.

2 -.6875 ———— Substituting values, 2 = .66. Now of course you understand all about that, but it is Greek to some people.

So you see I have no apologies to make for following out my plain comprehensive talk, have not confused you, or lead you to believe that it requires a great amount of study to become an engineer. I mean a practical engineer, not a mechanical engineer. I just touch mechanical engineering to show you that that is something else. If you are made of the proper stuff you can get enough out of this little book to make you as good an engineer as ever pulled a throttle on a traction engine. But this is no novel. Go back and read it again, and ever time you read it you will find something you had not noticed before.



INDEX ——-

PART FIRST PAGE Tinkering Engineers . . . . . . . . . . . 5 PART SECOND Water Supply . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 PART THIRD What a Good Injector Ought to Do . . . 45 The Blower . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 A Good Fireman . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Wood . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Why Grates Burn Out . . . . . . . . . . 57 PART FOUR Scale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 Clean Flues . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 PART FIVE Steam Gauge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 How to Test a Steam Gauge . . . . . . . 74 Fusible Plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 Leaky Flues . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79 PART SIX Knock in Engine . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 Lead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92 Setting a Valve . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 How to Find the Dead Center . . . . . . 95 Lubricating Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . 103 A Hot Box . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109 PART SEVEN A Traction Engine on the Road . . . . . 111 Sand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122 Friction Clutch . . . . . . . . . . . . 124 Something About Sight-Feed Lubricators 132 Two Ways of Reading . . . . . . . . . . 137 Some Things to Know . . . . . . . . . . 139 Things Handy for an Engineer . . . . . 159 Something About Pressure . . . . . . . . 184

THE END