For a medium-sized haggis, then, toast a breakfastcupful oatmeal in front of the fire, or in the oven till brown and crisp, but not burnt. Have the same quantity of cooked brown or German lentils, and a half-teacupful onions, chopped up and browned in a little butter. Mix all together and add 4 ozs. chopped vegetable suet, and seasoning necessary of ketchup, black and Jamaica popper.

It should be fairly moist; if too dry add a little stock, gravy, or extract. Turn into greased basin and steam at least 3 hours. An almost too realistic imitation of "liver" is contrived by substituting chopped mushrooms for the lentils. It may also be varied by using crushed shredded wheat biscuit crumbs in place of the oatmeal. Any "remains" will be found very toothsome, if sliced when cold, and toasted or fried.

Rolled Oats Savoury.

Put a teacupful Scotch rolled oats in a basin, and pour over 2 cupfuls milk in which some onion has been boiled. Allow to soak for an hour, remove onion, add pinch salt, &c., and a beaten egg. Steam in small greased basin for an hour. May be served with a puree of tomatoes.

Irish Stew.

Pare and slice 2 lbs. potatoes, and about 1/2 lb. each carrots, turnips, and onions. Fry all, except the potatoes, a nice brown in a little butter or fat. Put in layers in saucepan with 2 ozs. fat, salt, pepper, and good stock to barely cover. Simmer very gently for about 2 hours. It may also be baked in pie-dish.

This may be varied in many ways, as by adding layers of forcemeat, pressed lentils, &c. Then there are the various nut meats—Meatose, Vejola, Savoury Nut Meat, &c.—which can be used to great advantage in such a stew.

Scotch Stew.

This is a most substantial and excellent dish. Wash well 1/4 lb. pot barley—the unpearled if it can be procured—simmer gently in 1 pint white stock for an hour, then add some carrots, scraped—and if large, sliced lengthwise—2 or 3 small turnips cut in halves or quarters, or part of a large one in slices, a Spanish onion sliced, or a few shallots, some green peas, French beans, or other vegetables that may be in season; some cauliflower in sprigs is a welcome addition. It or green peas should not be added till 1/2 hour before serving. Simmer till all the vegetables are just cooked, adding more stock if necessary. Serve with a border of boiled pasties, potato balls, or chips.

Poor Man's Pie.

Pare and slice 2 to 3 lbs. potatoes. Slice 1 lb. onions; put half the potatoes in pie-dish, then the onions, and sprinkle over 2 tablespoonfuls tapioca and a little powdered herbs or parsley. Add the rest of the potatoes, dust with pepper and salt, pour in water or stock to within 1/2 inch from top. Put 2 oz. butter or nut butter on the top, and bake in moderate oven about 2 hours.

Vegetable Roast Duck.

Take a good-sized vegetable marrow, pare thinly and remove a small wedge-shaped piece from the side. Scoop out the seeds and water, fill in with good forcemeat, replace the wedge, brush all over with beaten egg. Coat with crumbs, put some butter over, and bake till a nice brown, basting frequently. Serve with fried tomatoes.

An ordinary forcemeat of crumbs, onion, parsley, egg, &c., will do, or any of the sausage mixtures given previously.

Esau's Pottage.

The following I have had given me as the original recipe for "Esau's pottage," but I think it must be more elaborate than that set before the hungry hunter.

One pint lentils and 2 quarts water boiled 2-1/2 hours, then add 1/2 lb. onions, 2 lbs. tomatoes, a little thyme and parsley. Cook all together 3/4 hour longer and add 3 oz. butter and 1 oz. grated cheese just before serving.

Dahl.

Wash well 1/2 lb. rice and allow to swell and soften in just as much water or stock as it will absorb. Cook 1/2 lb. red lentils with stock or water, some grated onion, pinch herbs, little curry powder, and any other seasoning to taste. Make a border of the rice, pile the lentils high in the centre, and garnish with slices of hard-boiled eggs. The lentils are best steamed, as they can thus be thoroughly cooked without becoming mushy or burnt.

Mushroom and Tomato Pie.

For a fair-sized pie get 3/4 lb. medium-sized flap mushrooms, the meadow ones are best, and 1 lb. good firm tomatoes, remove the stalks from the mushrooms and wipe with a piece of clean flannel dipped in oatmeal or salt. Unless very dirty, it is best not to wash them, as that somewhat spoils the flavour. Pare and put a layer in pie-dish, along with slices of tomato, pared and free from seeds. Put a little bit of butter on each, dust with salt and pepper, and repeat till the dish is heaped up. Cover with a good, rough puff paste, and bake till the paste is ready, about an hour. No water should be put in, but the trimmings of the mushrooms and tomatoes should be stewed in a little water, and this gravy may be added with a funnel after the pie is ready.

Mushroom and Tomato Patties.

For these we require some richer puff paste. Prepare and trim a small quantity of tomatoes and mushrooms. Cut rather small and cook gently, with a little butter and seasoning, for 10 or 15 minutes. Allow most of the moisture to evaporate in cooking, as this is much better than mixing in flour to absorb it. When the pastry cases are baked, fill in with the mixture. Good either hot or cold. If baked in patty pans, the mixture should be cold before using. Line in the tins with puff paste, half fill, brush edges with egg or water, lay on another round of paste, press edges together and bake.

Vol-au-Vent.

A delicious vol-au-vent is made with exactly the same filling as above.

Mushroom Pie.

Put on stewpan with a piece of "Nutter" or other good vegetable fat. Cut up one large Spanish onion very small, add to fat and brown nicely. Cover with water and stew along with the contents of a tin or bottle of white French mushrooms (including the liquid), also pepper and salt to taste. Stew till the mushrooms are tender, then take out and chop. Dish along with other contents of saucepan, and when cool add a cup of brown bread crumbs, and one beaten egg. Cover with puff paste or short crust and bake. Serve with brown sauce.

Shepherd's Pie.

Mushrooms same as for mushroom pie, but covered with nicely mashed potatoes, adding pepper and salt to the latter. Beat well and cover, stroke with a fork, and brown in the oven.



BREAKFAST DISHES—Porridge.

"The halesome parritch, chief o' Scotia's food."

In these days of tea and white bread it is to be feared that the "halesome parritch" is now very far removed from the honoured place of chief, and it must be more than a coincidence which connects the physical degeneracy of the Scottish working people with the supplanting of the porridge-pot by the tea-pot. Even in rural districts there is a great change in the daily fare, and there too anaemia, dyspepsia, and a host of other ills, quite unknown to older generations, are only too common. Certainly many people have given up porridge because they found it did not suit them—too heavy, heating, &c.—but we must remember that all compounds of oatmeal and water are not porridge, and the fault may lie in its preparation. It is a pity that any one, especially children and growing youths, should be deprived of such valuable nutriment as that supplied by oatmeal, and before giving it up, it should be tried steamed and super-cooked. It is only by steaming that one can have the oatmeal thoroughly cooked and dextrinised, while of a good firm "chewable" consistency, and not only are sloppy foods indigestible, but they give a feeling of satiety in eating, followed later by that of emptiness and craving for food. The custom, too, of taking tea and other foods after porridge is generally harmful.

Now for the method by which many, who have long foresworn porridge, have become able again to relish it, and benefit by it. Make porridge in usual way, that is, have fast boiling water, and into that sprinkle the oatmeal smoothly, putting about twice as much oatmeal in proportion to the water as is usual. Boil up for a few minutes, add salt to taste, and turn into a pudding bowl or steamer. Cover closely and put in large pot with about one inch water or in a steam cooker and steam for five to twelve hours. Eat with stewed prunes, figs, &c., or with butter or nut butter—almond cream butter is both delicious and wholesome. A mixture of wheatmeal and oatmeal, or wheatmeal itself, may be found to suit some better than oatmeal alone. I heard recently of a hopeless dyspeptic who recovered health on a diet composed almost entirely of porridge made of three-parts whole wheatmeal to one of oatmeal. I may add that one must be careful to take a much smaller quantity of this firm, super-cooked porridge, as it contains so much more nutriment in proportion to its bulk.

Porridge made with Scotch Rolled Oats also will be found easier of digestion by some than ordinary oatmeal porridge. This also is best steamed and super-cooked.

* * * * *

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* * * * *



BREAKFAST SAVOURIES.

Most of the rissoles, toasts, &c., given in the earlier part of the book are suited for breakfast dishes, but we may add a few more.

Savoury Omelets.

Separate the whites from the yolks of 3 eggs, or one for each person; beat up the yolks, and add some grated onion, pepper and salt. Beat the whites till very stiff and mix or rather fold in very lightly. Make a small piece of butter very hot in small frying pan, pour in one-third of the mixture, shake over gentle heat till set, easing it round the edges with a knife, fold over and put on very hot napkin. Repeat till all are done and serve very hot. A little hot lemon juice may be squeezed over, or a spoonful of mushroom ketchup will give a nice relish.

Cheese Omelet

is made by mixing in grated cheese—a dessert spoonful for each egg. The onion may be omitted if preferred without. A pinch cayenne and a little made mustard go well with cheese.

Savoury Pancakes.

Take much the same ingredients as above, but beat yolks and whites together, and add one tablespoonful milk, and a level dessert spoonful flour for each egg. Mix all together some time before using. Make a bit of butter hot in very small frying pan, pour in enough batter to just cover, and cook very gently till set, and brown on the under side. Turn and brown on the other side, or hold in front of hot fire or under the gas grill. Roll up and serve very hot. Ketchup and water, or diluted extract, may be used instead of the milk, and some finely minced parsley or pinch herbs is an improvement.

These omelets and pancakes may be varied by adding tomatoes, mushrooms, &c. Cook very lightly and either stir into the mixture before frying, or spread on the top after it is cooked, and fold or roll up. A mixture of tomatoes and mushrooms is especially good.

Mushroom Cutlets.

Remove stalks and skins from 1/2 lb. flap mushrooms. Clean, chop up, and stew gently in a little butter. Melt 1 oz. butter in another saucepan, stir in 1 oz. flour, and add by degrees a teacupful milk, tomato juice, or extract. When smooth add the mushrooms and seasonings. Stir till smooth and thick, and turn out on flat dish to cool. Shape into cutlets, egg, crumb, and fry.

Asparagus, celery, artichokes, and many other vegetables may be used in the composition of omelets, fritters, cutlets, &c.

If for an omelet, only a very small quantity must be used. One tablespoonful of any of the finer cooked vegetables is enough in proportion to two eggs. When a more substantial dish is wanted, it should take the shape of cutlets or fritters.

Bread Fritters.

Put 6 ozs. fine bread crumbs in a basin and pour over 3 teacupfuls boiling milk. Allow to stand for some time, then add seasoning to taste—grated onion, parsley, ketchup, extract, &c.—and 2 beaten eggs, reserving a little of the white for brushing. Mix and pour into buttered baking tin. Cover and bake in good oven till set—about 1 hour. When cold, cut into nice shapes, brush over with egg, toss in fine crumbs and fry. This may also be served simply baked. In that case, put some bits of butter on top, and bake a nice brown without cover.

Eggs

are, of course, invaluable in many ways besides the more familiar boiled, poached, and scrambled.

Buttered Eggs.

Break number of eggs required in a bowl, melt a nut of butter to each egg in saucepan, pour in the eggs, seasoning, &c., and stir one way over gentle heat till set. About 2 minutes should do. Serve on toast or bread cutlets.

Tomato Eggs.

Have a quantity of tomato pulp made hot in frying pan, and slip in as many eggs as required, gently, so as not to scatter. Allow to poach for about 3 minutes or till the whites are just set. Serve on toast or shredded wheat biscuits. Another way is to cook the tomatoes, and put, with the eggs, on a flat dish, in the oven till set. Serve on same dish, garnished with sippets of toast or toasted triscuits.

Egg Cutlets (Mrs G. D.)

There are many different recipes for these, but the following is an especially good one, for which I am indebted to an Edinburgh friend. Chop very small two firmly boiled eggs, and 2 tablespoonfuls bread crumbs and the same of grated cheese with a pinch of curry powder, pepper, and grated nutmeg. Mix with the yolk of a raw egg. Shape into cutlets, brush over with the white of the egg beaten up a little, toss in fine crumbs, and fry a nice brown. Garnish with fried parsley.

Inverness Eggs.

Boil hard the number of eggs required, remove the shells, and rub each with a little flour. Take a quantity of any of the varieties of sausage meat, for which recipes are given, or a forcemeat, or quenelle mixture will do, add some finely minced parsley, any other seasoning required, and a beaten egg to bind. Mix thoroughly, flour the hands and coat each egg with the mixture, rather less than 1/4 inch thick, and evenly, so that the shape is retained, flour lightly and fry a nice brown. Cut in halves, and serve, round ends up, with tomato sauce.

Toasts

of various kinds come in nicely for breakfast. They can be of ordinary toast, fried bread, or shredded wheat biscuits. The latter are particularly dainty, and may be prepared thus:—Put in buttered baking tin, with plenty of butter on top of each, and place in brisk oven till crisp and brown—about 10 minutes. Pile high with following mixture:—In an enamel frying pan put a teaspoonful butter, and two tablespoonfuls diluted extract or ketchup and water for each egg. When nearly boiling, break in the eggs and stir gently round over a very moderate heat till just set. Season to taste. A little of the sauce made hot might be first poured over the toast or biscuits.

Bread Cutlets.

Have a number of neat pieces of bread about 1/2 inch thick. Dip in milk, gravy, tomato juice, &c., and drain. Do not soak. Brush over with egg or dip in batter, and fry. Serve as they are or with some savoury mince, tomatoes, &c.

Stuffed Tomatoes.

Have number of tomatoes required, equal in size but not too large. With a sharp knife take off a small slice from the stalk end. Scoop out a little of the centre part, mix this with some forcemeat, or sausage mixture, beaten egg, &c., and fill in the cavity. Put some butter on the top and bake. A few chopped mushrooms with crumbs, egg, &c., make a delicious filling.

Cheese Fritters.

Mix 2 tablespoonfuls flour with 1/2 teacupful milk, 2 ozs. grated cheese, teaspoonful made mustard, and the whites of 2 eggs stiffly beaten. Mix well, and drop by small spoonfuls into hot fat. Fry a nice brown and serve very hot.

One might go on indefinitely to detail breakfast dishes, but that is quite unnecessary. It is a good thing, however, to have some simple, easily-prepared food as a regular stand-by from day to day, just as porridge is in some households, and bacon and eggs in others. Variety is very good so far, but we are in danger of making a fetish of changes and variations. Most of you know the story of the Scotch rustic who was quizzed by an English tourist, who surprised him at his mid-day meal of brose. The tourist asked him what he had for breakfast and supper respectively, and on getting each time the laconic answer "brose," he burst out in amaze: "And do you never tire of brose!" Whereupon the still more astonished rustic rejoined "Wha wad tire o' their meat!" "Meat" to this happy youth was summed up in brose, and to go without was to go unfed.

Well, I am afraid the most Spartan hausfrau among us will scarcely attain to such an ideal of simplicity, but we might do well to have one staple dish, either in plane of, or along with porridge. For this purpose I know of nothing better than

Shredded Wheat Biscuits.

These have been referred to several times already in various savoury recipes, and, indeed, the ways in which they may be used are practically unlimited. For a

Standard Breakfast Dish,

especially in these days of "domestic" difficulty, they are exceedingly useful. For some years now we have bought them through our grocer by the case of 50 boxes—which, of course, brings them in much cheaper than buying these boxes singly—and use them week in, week out, for the family breakfast. Most people are familiar with the appearance of these, but any who have not yet sampled them should lose no time in doing so. Fortunately, they can now be had of all good grocers. When some of us began to use them first we had no end of bother sending away for them to special depots.

To prepare:—Have a flat tin or ashet large enough to hold the biscuits side by side. Spread the tin liberally with butter, lay in the biscuits, put more butter on the top of each, and toast till nicely crisp and brown in good oven, or under the gas grill. If the latter, turn to toast the under side. Be very careful not to burn. If toasted on an ashet serve on same dish. One can now have fire-proof ware which is not unsightly. There is a very artistic white fire-proof ware which is specially suitable for using in this way, so that besides the saving of trouble, one can have the food hot and crisp from the oven—a rather difficult, or at least uncertain consummation if there is much shifting from one dish to another. These

"Shredders,"

as we familiarly dub them, are most toothsome served quite simply as above, but they may be acceptably varied with sundry relishes. A very good way is to have a little gravy prepared by diluting half a teaspoonful "Marmite" or a teaspoonful "Carnos" in a half teacup boiling water. Pour a very little over each biscuit, and serve on very hot plates. Prepared thus they may serve as toast for scrambled eggs or any savoury mixture. For

Tomato "Shredders"

fry the necessary quantity of tomatoes, free from skin and seeds, in a little butter, with seasoning of grated onion, pepper, and salt. A little "Marmite" or "Carnos" is a great improvement.

<b<Mushrooms

may be used in the same way, and a mixture of mushrooms and tomatoes fried or baked and mixed together is especially good.

Green Onions

are also very good. Take 1/2 lb. green onions, trim away any tough or withered parts, and cut up the green in 1/2 inch lengths. Put these in a saucepan with boiling water to barely cover, a little salt, pinch sugar, and a little mint, sage, or parsley. Cook gently for half an hour, then add the white cut in rings, and stew till quite tender. Stir in 1/2 oz. butter, a little ketchup or extract, and serve on prepared S.W. Biscuits.

Craigie Toast

will commend itself to those who wish for a quickly made dish. Allow one egg and a small tomato to each person. Beat up the eggs and add the tomatoes minced, also seasoning—a few capers or a little gherkin finely chopped is very good—and a little milk, ketchup and water, or diluted extract—half a teacupful to 4 eggs. Melt a good piece of butter in saucepan, pour in the other ingredients, and mix over the fire till thoroughly hot. Cover, and allow to cook by the side of the fire for a few minutes, then serve piled up on crisp toasted S.W. Biscuits.

All the recipes I have given for using these biscuits are designed to have them dry and crisp. I think they are much nicer in that way, but those who like them soft or as a mush can have them so with even less trouble. Put a little milk, tomato juice, extract, sauce, &c., &c., in a soup plate. Dip in each biscuit lightly and drain, place on buttered tin or dish to warm through. For a

Bachelor's Mush

which might suitably take the place of porridge where the preparation of that is inconvenient, toast one or two Shredded Wheat Biscuits on a deep plate. Pour boiling milk over and serve with sugar or stewed fruit.

With stewed fruit, also, one might use

Triscuits

toasted or plain. These are flat filamented biscuits which can be used to advantage in many ways. They can be used in place of toast, and are very suitable to eat with porridge or any food which may be rather mushy alone.

One might go on for pages with suggestions for using these handy biscuits, but one has only to begin using them to find out innumerable ways of one's own. These are not always what I would suggest. One "unreformed" friend of mine who had begun to use them on my recommendation, told me she put them to fry every morning, after dipping in egg or batter, among the fat of the breakfast bacon!

Grain Granules.

This also is a very handy and sustaining breakfast dish, and needs little or no cooking. To make a hot mush put a few spoonfuls in a plate or saucer, and pour hot milk over. It may be eaten at once or allowed to remain in the oven for a few minutes. If to be eaten with cream or stewed fruit, crisp for a few minutes in the oven.

Nutgraino

is another excellent breakfast dish, composed of the whole wheat berry blended with nuts, and is most nourishing and digestible. It may be used as Grain Granules.

Wheatose

is a food which is recommended by eminent authorities on the food question. It is not so quickly prepared as the foregoing foods, but with a little forethought costs very little trouble. One teacupful should be soaked with rather less than twice that quantity of water for 10 hours, then it should be steamed in Queen pudding bowl, "Gourmet" boiler, &c., for 4 or 5 hours. It might thus be put on to soak in the morning, then put on to steam in the evening, or it might be put in covered jar in the oven all night. It can easily be warmed up in the morning, and when cold it will be quite firm, and may be cut in slices and fried. As a mush it should be eaten with dry toast or triscuits and stewed fruit.



COLD SAVOURIES.

"Reform" Mould.

(Mrs W., Dundee.)

Take 1 lb. yellow lentils, wash well, and boil with as little water as possible and any suitable seasoning, such as chopped onion, pinch herbs, salt, pepper, and a little butter; also about 2 tablespoonfuls of tapioca which has been soaked all night or longer. Cook very gently till the tapioca is quite clear, and turn into wetted or oiled mould. Turn out when quite firm and serve with any suitable garnish-cooked beetroot, &c.

NOTE.—This can be best cooked in double boiler, as it is very ready to catch the pan.

Vegetable Mould.

Cut finely about 6 ozs. each of turnip and carrot, and 3 ozs. shallots, and stew till just tender in stock or gravy to barely cover. Steaming is better, as the vegetables should not be broken down. Add some cooked cauliflower cut small, a cupful of cooked green peas or French beans, and 3 or 4 tomatoes sliced and cooked. Mix in 2 ozs. bread crumbs, and the same of cooked savoury rice, semolina, or tapioca, and cook a little longer. Press into a dish—an oval cake tin does very well. When cool turn out, see that it is neat, and brush all over with glaze. Garnish with slices of hard-boiled egg and

Tomato Aspic.

This jelly comes in useful in many ways. Take 1 tin tomatoes and rub through a sieve. Make up with clear stock or water to 1 pint—2 breakfastcupfuls. Have 1/6-oz. Agar-agar (Vegetable Gelatine) soaked for an hour in cold water, pour off the water, add to the tomato pulp, and put all in enamelled saucepan along with any additional flavouring required. Salt and white pepper will do nicely, but a blade of mace, some mixed herbs, and a few Jamaica peppercorns may be used. Add also the whites and shells of two eggs, unless you have a number of egg shells, in which case the whites may be dispensed with. Whisk steadily over the fire till it boils, then draw to the side and allow to simmer gently for 10 minutes. Pour twice through jelly-bag. The second time run half on to a flat ashet or some plates. Colour the rest with a little carmine and put to set also. When used as a garnish, stamp out in pretty shapes, and arrange with the red and amber alternating. For

Glaze

dissolve 2 tablespoonfuls of the clear tomato aspic in saucepan. Add 1/2 teaspoonful "Marmite," or 1 teaspoonful "Carnos" extract, mix thoroughly, and boil up. Allow to get nearly cool, but not beginning to set, and then brush over the mould with it.

Mock Calf's Foot Jelly.

Prepare according to directions given for tomato jelly, and just before straining add amount required of a good extract. One oz. "Marmite"—or 2 teaspoonfuls—or 1-1/2 ozs. "Carnos" to a pint of tomato jelly, would be a good proportion. Stir till dissolved. Strain and mould in the usual way.

It may of course be prepared without extract, by making a good strong stock. Vegetables may be used or not at discretion. The liquor strained from haricots, brown beans, or German lentils, with vegetable gelatine, in the proportion of 1/8-oz. to the pint, makes a delicious jelly. Care must be taken to see that none of the pulp gets through. Clarify and strain very carefully.

Legumes en Aspic.

Get an equal quantity of red, white, and green vegetables—say young carrots, tomatoes, turnips, cauliflower, green peas, French beans, &c. Have each cooked "to a turn" separately, and the carrots and turnips cut into neat shapes, cauliflower in tiny sprigs, &c. Arrange the vegetables as neatly as possible in a mould, and fill up with tomato jelly. When set, turn out and garnish with slices of fresh tomato and lemon.

It is not necessary to have a number of different vegetables for this dish. Any one or two of them will do quite well. The mould might be decorated with slices of beetroot or hard-boiled eggs.

Tomato and Egg Savoury.

Boil hard 4 eggs, cut in half, and remove yolks. Divide 4 good-sized, firm, ripe tomatoes in halves, and scoop out some of the pulp, leaving a nice case. Put the half whites inside the tomato shells and fill with the following mixture:—In a saucepan melt 2 ozs. butter, add tomato pulp, 1 oz. fine crumbs, the yolks rubbed through a sieve, a teaspoonful extract, salt, pepper, and a little lemon juice. Mix well and make quite hot. Fill in the little cups, piling it up cone-wise, and serve on a bed of aspic.

Raised Haricot Pie.

Prepare a raised pie case (see Pastry), put in a layer of cooked haricot or butter beans, a layer of sliced tomatoes, and one of hard-boiled eggs. Put on the lid, which should have a hole in the centre. Bake, and with a funnel fill in with dissolved savoury jelly. This is delicious to eat cold, and is very useful for pic-nics. The same ingredients may also be made into small pies or bridies.



POTTED SAVOURIES.

There is an unlimited variety of these to be had. Any of the savoury mixtures given in previous recipes for stews, sausages, &c., will do, but if to be kept for any length of time, it must be well seasoned, the different ingredients thoroughly blended or pounded together, and the mixture pressed into small jars or glasses with clarified butter or pure vegetable fat poured over. A little lemon juice and grated lemon rind will give a piquant relish to most of these potted "meats."

Haricot Paste.

This is very good, and is a handy way of using up cold haricots, butter beans, &c. Drain away any sauce, or add as much finely mashed potato or cold boiled rice as will absorb it. Add seasoning to taste—mace, made mustard, ketchup, "Extract," &c. Mix thoroughly and pass through a sieve to remove skins, stringy portions, &c. Some tomato is always an improvement, and if none has been cooked with the beans, put some in saucepan with a little butter and cook for 10 minutes. Add the haricots, &c., blend together over the fire, and pass through sieve while hot.

Lentil Paste

is made by using cooked lentils in place of the beans.

Tomato Paste.

Peel and cut small 1/2 lb. tomatoes. Put in saucepan with 1 oz. butter, a teaspoonful grated onion, and seasoning to taste—made mustard, celery salt, lemon juice, ketchup, "Extract," &c. Each or all of these are good. Stir over the fire till the tomato is nearly cooked, then add one egg, and stir round till all is smooth and thick. Add 2 tablespoonfuls bread crumbs or 1 of cold cooked rice, macaroni, &c., previously put through a sieve or masher. Remove to side of fire and stir in 2 ozs. grated cheese. Mix very thoroughly and pot.

Tomato Paste (2).

For immediate use the following is specially good. It may be used as a savoury, and makes a delicious filling for sandwiches. Take some firm, ripe tomatoes, free from skin and seeds, and cut up small. Allow 1 oz. grated cheese to every 4 ozs. tomato—some may prefer more cheese in proportion, but that is a fair average. Put in a strong basin with seasoning—made mustard or pepper, ketchup, a little "Marmite" or "Carnos," &c., and pound to a smooth paste with a wooden spoon. Pass through a sieve, and it is ready for use.

Brawn for Pic-Nic.

Take a small teacupful lentils, haricots, or butter peas, and rub through a sieve. Cook 2 ozs. flaked rice or semolina in a teacupful boiling stock for about 10 minutes, stirring all the while, and then 1/2 lb. or more of tomatoes sliced and cut small, dessertspoonful grated onion, some finely shred cooked carrot or beetroot, and seasoning. Add the lentils to this and mix thoroughly. Cook for a minute or so, remove from the fire, and mix in 2 finely chopped hard-boiled eggs. Press into a glass dish. It may be covered with glaze when turned out, or decorated with aspic jelly.

Tomatoes and Mushrooms,

gently baked or steamed together, with butter and seasoning, are also very good as a cold savoury for sandwiches; &c. If rather moist add a little cooked rice, mashed potato, or fine crumbs. Pound together, pass through a sieve if wished very smooth, and pot as above.

Sandwiches.

A good filling for sandwiches is to be found in any of the "potted meats" given in the foregoing section. Amongst others are

Egg Sandwiches.

These are usually made with finely chopped hard-boiled eggs. The latter alone may be used, or a little relish of some sort may be added—ketchup, tomato pulp, or chutney. Mix all to a smooth paste before using, and spread very evenly.

Egg Sandwiches (2).

Another very good way is to beat up the eggs a little, add seasoning, &c., put a bit of butter in saucepan, pour in the eggs, and cook gently till set. Stir all the time. Use when cold.

Water-Cress, Mustard-and-Cress,

and all salad vegetables are suitable for sandwiches. Most people will prefer them simply with bread and butter, so that the individual flavour may be appreciated. If any, such as lettuce or endive, are considered rather insipid, a little relish may be added as above. A tasty and novel flavour is obtained by spreading a very little Marmite Extract on the bread and butter before adding the filling proper.

Tomato Cheese Sandwiches

are among the best. The filling may be either the Tomato Paste given under Potted Savouries, or the mixture given for Scotch Woodcock or Mock Crab.



VEGETABLES.

It may seem rather supererogatory to speak of "Vegetables" distinctively, for the "unregenorate" will be inclined to declare that we have been discussing nothing else all the while. But for the benefit of such as are like the advertised domestic "willing to learn," I would say that vegetarians as a rule use fresh vegetables practically in the same way as meat eaters do, to supplement more substantial viands. No one—to my knowledge at least—ever dines off the proverbial cabbage or turnip—perhaps it would be better if they did now and then—but, that by the way. But there are vegetables and vegetables. No one who has gone in for the most elementary food reform will tolerate the sodden, soap-like potatoes, or the flabby, insipid, brown papery-looking stuff, called by courtesy cabbage, which so often does duty as companion to beef, mutton, or pork. Perhaps, though, the savoury cow or pig throws a halo over all the defects of its surroundings. Be that as it may, there is need for improvement in many ways, and by this I do not mean more elaboration in dressing or serving, for this is not seldom used to disguise shortcomings which otherwise could not escape notice. But disguising defects does not remove them, and we should do well to safeguard ourselves by having our food cooked as simply and naturally as possible.

The homeliest vegetables, too, if sound, ripe, and wholesome, are infinitely to be preferred to the rare expensive sorts forced out of season or gathered barely ripe and conveyed long distances to whet jaded palates. Well, to begin with that vegetable we are supposed to live on,

Cabbage.

This may either be a choice delicacy or an unmitigated abomination. It should be fresh, green, crisp and tender, and as newly pulled as possible. Those who have gardens should leave it growing till half-an-hour before cooking. When it must be kept for some time, see that it is in a shady, cool place, and an hour or two before using; remove any tough or withered leaves, split up the stalk well into the heart, if to be used whole, and lay in a large basin of cold water. Add a handful of salt and two tablespoonfuls vinegar to each gallon of water. Although freshly pulled all leafy vegetables should be soaked in this way to remove any caterpillars, slugs, &c., for even eaters of pig and ox have a curious objection to animal food on a small scale. To cook, have ready a good-sized saucepan with fast-boiling water containing a little salt, and if the cabbage is at all old or tough, a bit of washing soda the size of a hazel nut, to each quart of water. Drain very thoroughly from the water in which soaking, and plunge into the fast-boiling water. It is most important that the water should not go off the boil as then the juices would be drawn out and wasted. Boil steadily with the lid off for 10 to 20 minutes according to age, then lift into drainer on top of the boiling water and cook till tender in the steam. Serve on hot vegetable dish with some bits of butter on the top. It should be perfectly tender, yet crisp and of a vivid green. If at all brown, or dull, or flabby-looking, there is something wrong, either with the vegetable itself or the cooking. And I am not to give directions for "doctoring" anything that is either unwholesome or spoiled. A paragraph has been going the round of certain papers lately, giving directions for disguising the flavour of tainted meat, which "few cooks know how to treat so as to render perfectly nice"! It is to be wrapped in vinegar cloths, &c.—"boil up, and use it." I should say doctor it as you please, but then—throw it away! If anything, no matter what, goes bad—milk, soup, vegetables—throw it out without hesitation. It is a pity to waste things—and this ought to be prevented by good management—but surely it is much greater waste to use tainted food. Better miss a meal, if need be, than make a refuse bin of our bodies. All this may seem a digression, but I am so thoroughly convinced that a large proportion of the "ills that flesh is heir to"—and we accept the inheritance with a resignation "worthy of a better cause"—is due to unsound or improperly prepared food, that I make no apology. Many people have told me that they daren't touch certain vegetables, and when I have seen these as served by them have cordially agreed with them. The most common error, especially with green vegetables, like

Cabbage, Savoys, Brussels Sprouts, Greens, &c.,

which all require much the same treatment, is over-cooking. There seems to be a popular notion, somehow, regarding vegetables, that the more you cook them the better they are, and after all the substance and flavour has been boiled out of them, people wonder how anyone can relish such stuff! Each vegetable should get just the bare amount of cooking necessary, and no more. If they have to wait for some time before serving, stand over boiling water as directed above. Most vegetables may be cooked entirely by

Steaming.

This conserves all their own juices which contain the various valuable natural salts, alkalies, &c., so necessary to health, and which we so vainly try to make up by the addition of crude minerals.

Carrots, Turnips, Potatoes,

and all root vegetables and tubers, are best cooked by steaming. Steamers with perforated bottoms to fit the various sizes of saucepan are now to be had from any ironmonger. A very good way to cook carrots, turnips, and parsnips, is to make up a good white sauce, put in Queen pudding-bowl or some other such dish, lay in the carrots, parsnips, &c. Cover and steam till cooked. If rather old, they may first be par-boiled. This should be done before the skin is removed.

Beetroot

should always be steamed by preference, but quite as much care must be taken not to break any of the fibres, or it will "bleed" as in boiling. When tender, which will take from two to four hours, pare and cut in slices. It may either be dressed with vinegar, lemon juice, &c., to serve cold, or fried and served with white or tomato sauce as a hot vegetable.

Green Peas

may also be steamed in a jar or basin like stewed fruit. A very little water and a little lemon juice should be added. If to be boiled, have a small saucepan with fast boiling water to barely cover, a little sugar, salt, lemon juice, and sprig of mint. Boil fast till tender. Drain and serve with butter only.

French Beans

may be cooked in same way. Remove stalks and "strings" and cut across diamondwise.

Broad Beans, Kidney Beans, &c.,

usually require to have the tough white sloughs removed. To facilitate this, pour boiling water over, when they may be slipped off quite easily. Cook same as green peas.

To Re-heat Peas, &c.,

Put a little butter in saucepan, a finely minced shallot or spoonful grated onion, and some tomato free from skin and seeds. Simmer till cooked, lay in the vegetables to be warmed up. Make thoroughly hot and serve.

Cauliflower.

Trim and lay in cold salt water for some time, then boil or steam till just done. Trim off all the green leaves—it is best not to do this before cooking, as it is not so ready to break—lay in vegetable dish, and pour white sauce over.

Cauliflower au Gratin.

Prepare exactly as above. Coat with the sauce, sprinkle all over with bread crumbs or grated cheese, or a mixture of both, put some butter in little bits over it, and bake a light-brown in moderate oven.

Artichokes.

These may be cooked same as cauliflower, but require longer time. Cut the stalk off quite bare, and trim the leaves with scissors where necessary. By way of variety the centre part may be removed and the cavity filled with forcemeat or sausage filling. Serve with white sauce.

Jerusalem Artichokes.

Wash well, pare neatly, and lay in cold water and vinegar to cover. Have ready some boiling water with a little salt and some milk. Boil gently till tender—15 to 20 minutes. Drain, and serve with white sauce.

Fried Artichokes.

Parboil lightly, dry, dip in beaten egg, then toss in bread crumbs or a mixture of crumbs and grated cheese. Fry in smoking hot fat, and serve very hot on a napkin.

Fried Celery.

Prepare exactly as above. The pieces should be about 5 or 6 inches long. Pile up crosswise in serving.

Stewed Celery.

Wash and trim the celery into short lengths and allow to soak in vinegar and water for an hour or so before cooking. Drain, and parboil in water containing a little salt and lemon juice or vinegar for 10 minutes. Drain again, and stew for another 10 or 15 minutes in some good white stock. Do not throw away the water in which celery, cauliflower, peas, &c., are boiled. It can be added to the stock-pot. Meantime toast a slice of bread, dip it in this celery water, and lay on ashet cut in triangles. Lay the celery on this when cooked, make the stock in saucepan into a good sauce with flour and butter, and pour over.

Seakale

is rather scarce and expensive as a rule, but it is well to know how to cook it when occasion offers. It is a choice delicacy for an invalid or convalescent. Soak in salted cold water for a time, trim neatly and cook till tender—about half-an-hour in fast boiling water containing a little salt and lemon juice. Drain, and serve on toast with white sauce over.

Asparagus.

Wash well in cold water and scrape the stalks white. Tie in small bundles and stand in fast boiling salted water till the stalks are tender—about twenty minutes. Drain, and serve like celery.

Salsify,

or vegetable oyster, is another vegetable which would find great favour were it not so scarce and dear. Scrape the roots and throw into cold water. Cut in 2-inch pieces and simmer gently for an hour or till tender in stock with a slice of lemon, or in milk and water. Lift out the salsify and place on toast. Thicken the liquor with butter and flour and pour over.

All vegetables which are served with white sauce or melted butter can be acceptably served

Au Gratin,

and a dish of carrots, turnips, and the like served in this way is quite a delicacy. Young tender vegetables are of course always to be preferred, but even when rather old are better this way than any other. Cook till quite tender, but not in the least broken. Lay in a pie dish, cover with sauce, coat thickly with crumbs or cheese and crumbs. Dot over with butter, and bake a light brown.

Spinach.

Soak in cold water and rinse very well to remove all grit, &c. Trim away stalks and tough fibre at the back of the leaf. Shake the water well off, and put in dry saucepan with lid on, to cook for about 10 minutes. Drain, chop finely, and return to saucepan with some butter, salt and pepper, to get quite hot. Dish neatly in a flat, round, or oval shape, with poached eggs on top, and croutons of toast or fried bread round.

Cauliflower—Dutch Way.

(Mr VAN TROMP.)

Boil cauliflower in usual way, drain, and put in vegetable dish. Coat with this sauce:—Make a cream with 2 spoonfuls potato flour, add a little sugar, and stir over fire till it thickens.



SALADS.

"Cucumbers,—Peel the cucumber, slice it, pepper it, put vinegar to it, then throw it out of the window."—Dr Abernethy.

One does not need to be a vegetarian to appreciate salads, and many who find cooked vegetables difficult of digestion, will find that they can take them, with impunity, raw, but it is inadvisable to take raw and cooked fruit or vegetables at the same meal.

Raw Cabbage,

for example, digests in little over an hour, while cooked it takes 3 to 4-1/2 hours. Needless to say, only young, tender, freshly pulled cabbage can be used in this way. Shred finely, removing all stalks and stringy pieces, and cover with the usual salad dressing. This may now be had ready for use in the shape of

Florence Cream,

but if wanted to be made at home, take equal quantities of finest salad oil and either lemon juice or vinegar and mix together gradually by a few drops at a time. A little cream or yolk of egg beat up is an improvement, and ketchup, made mustard, &c., may be added to taste. The dressing may be prepared beforehand, but should be put on just before sending to table.

Cold Slaw

is a favourite American salad. Shred the cabbage as above and sprinkle liberally with salt. Allow to remain for at least 24 hours, turning occasionally. Drain and use with lemon juice or salad dressing.

Tomato Salad.

Shred down a crisp, tender lettuce. Put in salad bowl. Scald and pare some firm, ripe tomatoes. Slice and cut up—not too small. Mix with lettuce. Pour over a simple dressing. Some slices of hard-boiled egg may be used as a garnish, or the white may be chopped up and the yolk grated over at the last. Tomato aspic is also a tasteful addition. Chop up and put lightly over. This salad or plain lettuce may be varied by adding almost any tender young vegetable, shred fine. Scraped radish, young carrots, turnips, cauliflower, green peas, very finely shred shallot or white of spring onion, chives, cress, &c., are all good, and may be used according to taste and convenience. A good

Winter Salad

can be made with celery, endive, &c., and of course with cold cooked vegetables. These latter should be cooked separately, and mixed tastefully together with an eye to colour and appearance. Raw and cooked vegetables should never be mixed in the same salad, or indeed eaten at the same meal.



SAUCES.

"Hunger is the best Sauce."

"England" has been slightingly defined by a French gourmand as a country of fifty religions and only one sauce! If this be true of those who have all the resources of the animal kingdom at their disposal, what can be the plight of those from whom these are shut out. This "one sauce" was, I believe, melted butter, or as it is more generally now called

White Sauce,

and it is not every one who can make even that plain sauce as it should be. The thin, watery mixture, or grey "stodgy" mass which is sometimes served with cauliflower or parsnips, even where the other viands are fairly well cooked and served, is certainly enough to condemn "vegetables." Yet, how simple it is if done the right way. In a small saucepan—preferably earthenware or enamel, for it must be spotlessly clean and smooth—melt 1 oz. butter, and into that stir 1 oz. flour. When quite smooth add by degrees a teacupful milk. Stir till it thickens, and allow to cook for a minute or two longer. It must be done over a very gentle heat—the side of the range, or gas stove turned low. If wanted more creamy, use more butter in proportion to the flour. Salt and pepper to taste. To make

Parsley Sauce,

add a spoonful of finely chopped and scalded parsley to this just as it comes a boil; and for

Caper Sauce,

add some finely chopped capers or fresh nasturtium pods in same way.

Tarragon Sauce.

Add 20 to 30 drops Tarragon vinegar to prepared white sauce. Stir well.

Dutch Sauce.

To a creamy white sauce made with 2 ozs. butter to 1 oz. flour, add one, two, or three yolks of eggs according to richness desired. Beat up a little, add a very little cold milk to prevent curdling. Stir into sauce when off the fire. Allow to come just to boiling point again—this should be done in double saucepan or boiler—and add a little lemon juice.

Dutch Sauce (2).

Take the yolks of 2 eggs, beat lightly, and add to them a teaspoonful cold water. Whisk in a saucepan, add a tablespoonful lemon juice, same of cream, and a little pepper and salt. Stir over slow heat till it thickens.

Egg Sauce.

Prepare white sauce as above, and when ready add one or two hard-boiled eggs, very finely minced. The sauce may be made with white stock instead of milk. A pinch cayenne and other seasoning may be added.

Celery Sauce.

Make a sauce with the water or stock in which a head of celery has been boiled. Pulp part of the finest of celery through a sieve and add.

Horse Radish Sauce.

To quantity required of white sauce, add one or two tablespoonfuls finely scraped horse radish, and the juice of a lemon or a little vinegar.

Mustard Sauce.

Add teaspoonful or more made mustard to each 1/4 pint white sauce.

Onion Sauce.

Boil 1/2 lb. or 3/4 lb. Spanish onions in milk and water till tender. Drain and make sauce with the liquor. Rub the onion through sieve and add.

Brown Sauce.

With brown stock or gravy, make a sauce in same way as white sauce. If browned flour is used the colour will be better. Add also a little Carnos or Marmite.

Hasty Brown Sauce

can also be made by using water, in which a teaspoonful Carnos or 1/2 teaspoonful Marmite to the teacupful has been dissolved, instead of the brown stock. Some mushroom ketchup is a good addition.

Sauce Piquante.

Stew some shallots in butter till quite cooked. Stir in a dessert spoonful flour and allow to brown. Add juice of a lemon and seasoning of cayenne, clove, &c., or a spoonful Worcester or other sauce, also 2 teacupfuls diluted extract or ketchup and water. Boil gently for 10 to 15 minutes, then strain.

Walnut Gravy.

This excellent sauce will be new to many, and some who, like the immortal "Mrs Todgers," are at their wit's end to provide the amount of gravy demanded, "which a whole animal, not to speak of a j'int, wouldn't do," may be glad to give it a trial. Take 2 ozs. grated walnuts. These should be run through a nut mill. Make 1 oz. butter hot in saucepan, add the walnuts and stir till very brown, but be careful not to burn. Add a tomato peeled and chopped, or a little of the juice from tinned tomatoes, a teaspoonful grated onion, and a very little flour. Mix well over the fire, and add slowly a breakfastcup brown stock or prepared Extract. Simmer gently for about 20 minutes. It may be strained or not, as preferred.

Tomato Sauce.

Peel and chop up 1/2 lb. tomatoes, or take a cupful tomato pulp. In a saucepan melt 1 oz. butter and add a little grated onion and the tomatoes. Simmer till cooked. Stir in a little flour or cornflour, and when that is cooked rub through a sieve. A little ketchup or lemon juice may be added to taste.

Mayonnaise Sauce.

Put the yolk of an egg in a basin and mix in a teaspoonful mustard and 3 or 4 tablespoonfuls salad oil, by a few drops at a time, beating all the while with a fork. Add the juice of a lemon, a little Tarragon vinegar and castor sugar, pinch cayenne, and if liked, the white of egg beat stiff, or a little cream at the last.

Mint Sauce.

Melt 1 tablespoonful castor sugar in a gill boiling water. When cold add same quantity vinegar, then 3 or 4 tablespoons freshly pulled mint, chopped small.

Curry Sauce.

Add 2 teaspoonfuls curry powder or paste and a little chutney to 1/2 pint Brown Sauce or Piquant Sauce.

Bread Sauce.

Put a teacupful fine crumbs in a basin, add a tablespoonful grated onion, and pour over 2 cupfuls white stock or milk and water. Let stand for a little with plate over, then cook gently till quite smooth. Add seasoning of white pepper, ketchup, mace, &c., and if wished very smooth add a yolk of egg or a little cream, and rub through a coarse sieve.

Sweet White Sauce.

To 1/2 pint melted butter add 2 ozs. sugar and a little of any flavouring preferred. A yolk of egg beat up is an improvement.

Cocoanut Sauce.

To above sweet white sauce add when cooking, 2 ozs. cocoanut cream. Stir till dissolved. A little dessicated cocoanut will do, but the cream is much handier and nicer, as one has the rich cocoanut flavour without the tough fibre.

Almond Sauce.

1/4 lb. fresh butter or 3 ozs. almond butter, 2 ozs. sifted sugar, 1 oz. almond meal, or same of almonds blanched and chopped, 2 tablespoons water, 2 teaspoonfuls lemon juice.

Beat butter and sugar to a cream. (It should be quite light and frothy.) Add water and lemon juice by a drop or two at a time while beating. It should look like clotted cream. Sprinkle the almonds over. Excellent with pudding or stewed fruit.

Lemon Sauce.

Make a teaspoonful cornflour smooth in saucepan with a little cold water. Add a gill of boiling water, juice of a lemon, and 2 ozs. sugar. Let boil a minute or two. If flavour of rind is liked, grate that in. Add a little Carmine to colour.

Apple Sauce.

Pare, core and mince 4 to 6 apples. Stew in jar with moist sugar and a few cloves or bit of lemon rind. Remove the latter before sending to table.

* * * * *

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Is the Best Article of its kind upon the market, being an appetising wholesome extract entirely soluble and free from fat. Send 4d. in stamps for 1-oz. Sample and full particulars to

CARNOS CO., Great Grimsby, Lincs.

N.B.—No chemicals used in the manufacture.

* * * * *

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* * * * *

THE "ARTOX" FLAVOUR

HAVE YOU HEARD OF IT?

It is that delicious, sweet, nutty flavour which you long for but seldom find. It is only to be found in

"ARTOX"

Wholemeal, which is made from the very finest wheat obtainable, carefully selected and blended, and ground by millstones in the good old fashioned way.

"ARTOX"

contains the whole of the wheat, so treated that the sharp, irritating particles of the bran, so prevalent in the ordinary meal, are rendered harmless and capable of digestion by the weakest stomach.

"ARTOX"

by a patent process is ground to such a marvellous degree of fineness that it can be used for all the purposes for which white flour is used. Therefore make all your Bread, Puddings, Cakes, Pies, and Pastry with "ARTOX." They will be much nicer, besides being more nourishing and satisfying, because "ARTOX" is a perfect natural food.

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Send Post Card for Name and Address of Nearest Agent to

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* * * * *



BREAD.

One of the chief difficulties experienced by those trying to compass a complete scheme of hygienic dietary, is to get a pure, wholesome, easily digested, and, at the same time, palatable bread. We have long since exploded the idea that whiteness is a test of superiority, for we know that this is attained by excluding the most wholesome and nutritious part of the wheat and by the use of chemicals. Even when we use brown bread, we are by no means sure of having a wholemeal loaf, for it is as often as not merely the ordinary flour with some bran mixed in. And bran is only one part—by no means the most important—of that in which the meal is lacking. We want to get as much as possible of the real "germ," the essential part of the grain, but I am informed by experts, that the process of drying and preparing this germ meal is so much more troublesome, and, in consequence, expensive, that the easier and cheaper method is that generally adopted. But, if we want a really good thing we must be willing to pay for it, and by creating a demand for the superior article make it worth while to manufacture it, and it were poor economy to save on the bread bill at the expense of health. It is well to know exactly what constitutes a really wholesome bread, for bakers and purveyors everywhere are ready to meet their customers' wishes. But if people are ignorant or unreasonable enough to demand a light-coloured, puffy loaf, when a pure whole-wheat loaf is rather dark and solid looking, they must be prepared to find that they are served with what pleases their taste, and to take the risks. Some may like to try baking their bread at home, and it may interest them to know that it is possible to make very good wheaten bread without any raising ingredients whatever, simply with wheatmeal and water, aerating it by beating air into it. This is best managed by the home baker in the form of

Wheatmeal Gems.

There are sets of thick iron gem pans to be had, which are very good for this purpose, but one can manage quite well with oven-plates made of sheet-iron or black steel.

Into a large basin put 2 cupfuls of the coldest water procurable. Aerate by pouring from one vessel to another several times, or by whipping up with a spoon or spatula. Take 4 cupfuls whole meal, and pass several times through a sieve. Sprinkle the meal into the water a little at a time, whipping vigorously all the while till about three-fourths are worked in, and continue whisking from 20 to 30 minutes till the mixture is full of air bubbles. Sprinkle in the rest of the wheatmeal and mix thoroughly. Meanwhile, see that the oven is very hot, as a strong steady heat is necessary. Make the gem pans or oven-plates also very hot and grease lightly. Half fill the pans and put at once in oven, so that the moist air may be as quickly as possible converted into steam, and thus puff up the bread. If oven-plates are used, put dessertspoonfuls some distance apart on these and put in oven. If the oven is hot enough, a crust will at once form, and the steam trying to force its way out will send them up like puff balls. Moderate the heat, if possible after 10 or 15 minutes, and allow to bake for about 30 minutes longer. It is very easy to regulate the heat if a gas stove is used; if a range, put on some small coal. When baked turn out on a sieve, and when quite cold split open and toast on the inside.

Another excellent kind of bread, which can be managed quite easily with a little trouble and practice, is raised with eggs. It is generally known as

Wallace Egg Bread,

and as I have the recipe direct from Mrs C. Leigh Hunt Wallace, the inventor of this kind of bread, I am able to pass it on at first hand.

Ten ounces wheatmeal, 1 large egg (weighing 2 ozs.), 1 gill milk and 1 gill water, the whole to be made into a batter, the white of egg being beaten separately to a stiff froth and incorporated with the batter very thoroughly but very quickly; the whole to be baked in 1 lb. cake or loaf tin, the tin being very hot and thoroughly oiled or buttered before the batter is turned into it. Put for 50 minutes in a very hot part of the oven (350 degrees to 380 degrees fahr.) and keep in another 50 minutes to soak. I can vouch for the excellence of this bread, and may say that I have managed it with very little difficulty. I use a gas oven and loaf pans made of black steel, as these take and retain the heat much better than tins. If any amateur, however, is doubtful as to how this loaf should be, she cannot do better than send for a sample loaf or two to the Wallace Bakery, 465 Battersea Park Road, London, S.W. There is also a depot in Edinburgh—Messrs Richards & Co., 7 Dundas Street, where these can be got. By comparing one's own achievements with these, one will be the better able to attain the desired result. In case any may think this egg bread sounds expensive, I may say that it is exceedingly economical to use; a small loaf going much farther than a large one of the ordinary puffed-up kind.



PASTRY.

"'Meat for Repentance'—Pork pies for supper—or otherwise!"

Short Crust.

Take 1/2 lb. flour, mix with it 1/2 teaspoonful baking powder and put two or three times through a sieve. Rub in 4 ozs. butter. If vegetable butter is used, 3 ozs. will do, as it contains much less water. Beat up an egg. Add a teaspoonful lemon juice to the flour, &c., nearly the whole of the egg, and mix into a very dry paste with cold water. The mixing is best done with a knife. Turn out on floured board and form into an oblong piece, still using a broad knife as much as possible. Roll out evenly a good deal larger than the dish to be covered, and cut off a piece all round, leaving it the exact size and shape. Wet the edges of the dish, put a band of paste on. Wet that again, and lay on the cover. Make the edges neat with a knife or pastry cutter. Brush over with egg and bake in very hot oven for thirty to forty minutes. If used for covering a fruit tart, dust over with sifted sugar before serving.

Rough Puff Paste.

Take same quantities as for short crust. Divide butter into pieces on floured board and flatten with the rolling-pin—a stoneware bottle, by the way, is much better than a wooden rolling-pin. Put the butter with the flour and mix as before with egg, lemon juice and water. Turn out on floured board, make into a neat, oblong shape, beat down with rolling-pin and roll out very evenly to about 1/8-inch thickness. Dust with flour and fold in three, turn half round so as to have open end in front of one, and roll out as before. Repeat this until it has got 4 turns, taking care to keep the edges as even as possible, and for the last time roll out a good deal larger than the dish. Put a band of paste on the dish, wet this and lay on the cover. Flute the edges neatly. Brush over with egg. Cut the trimmings of paste into leaves, &c., and decorate the pie, putting a rose in the centre. Brush these also with egg. Make one or two slits to let out the steam, and bake in hot oven. The oven should be made very hot before the pastry is put in, and then the heat should be moderated. This can of course be managed best with a gas oven.

This rough puff paste is very suitable for small sausage rolls. Roll out for last time quite square. Divide into nine equal squares, put a small quantity of sausage meat on centre, wet edges and press together. Brush over with egg and bake. Remember never to brush the edges with egg, as that would stick them together and prevent rising.

Rich Puff Paste

suitable for patties, vol-au-vent, &c., is made as above, but with 6 ozs. butter to 8 ozs. flour. For patties leave the paste at last rolling out 1/2 inch thick. Stamp out into rounds with lid or biscuit-cutter, about 2-1/2" or 3" diameter, and with a smaller cutter mark about half-way through the paste. Brush with egg and put on oven-plate. See that the oven is specially hot, and yet regulated so that the pastry will not scorch before thoroughly risen, as the oven door must not be opened for fifteen to twenty minutes after putting in. They should rise to three or four times the thickness of the paste. Allow to bake some time longer, remove from oven, and with a sharp-pointed knife remove the centre lid. Fill in with the mushrooms, tomatoes, &c., replace top, and make very hot again before using.

Vol-au-Vent

is done exactly in same way, only all in one. Cut out the whole of the paste round, oval or square, and with a sharp-pointed knife mark half-way through all round about an inch from the edge. Bake as for patties, but the larger piece of pastry will require longer to bake through and through. Remove lid carefully, put in filling and replace lid.

Raised Pie Crust.

This paste is most wholesome and economical. For a good-sized pie take 3/4lb. flour and 3 ozs. butter or Nut Butter. Put the flour in a basin. Bring the butter to boiling point with a teacupful water. Pour in among the flour, stirring all the time till thoroughly mixed, then knead well. When nearly cold take off about a third and make the rest into a ball, flatten and work up by hand till the case is about 2-1/2 inches high, and slightly narrower at the top—Melton-Mowbray shape. Slip on to greased oven-plate, and when quite firm, fill rather more than half-full with haricots, tomatoes, &c. Roll out the bit of paste remaining, cut out lid, wet the edges of it and the pie-case and pinch together. Brush all over with egg. Ornament with the trimmings, brush again and bake in good steady oven for at least three-quarters of an hour. When ready, pour in some more gravy, or if to be used cold, some dissolved savoury jelly.

Should there be difficulty at first in raising this entirely by hand, it might be moulded round a jar or round tin. Another way is to use a tart ring, but a very simple and handy way, which finds favour especially with children, is to make bridies. Divide the paste into ten or twelve pieces. Roll out a nice oval, put some savoury mixture on one half, wet edges with egg or water, press together and pinch into neat flutes, brush over with egg and bake.

Suet Paste.

Allow 3 ozs. vegetable suet to 8 ozs. flour. Chop the suet or run through nut-mill. Add to flour along with salt and pepper, and if liked, a little grated onion and chopped parsley. Make into a firm paste with water, which may have a little ketchup or "Extract" diluted in it.

This is, of course, for savoury pies, &c. If for sweet dishes—roly-poly, apple dumpling, &c.—omit all seasonings and add sugar and any flavouring preferred, such as clove, ginger, or cinnamon.



CAKES, SCONES, &c.

Only a few cakes, &c., are given here, as there are a number of excellent ones among the contributed recipes in last section, under heading of Bazaar contributions, and, besides, there is nothing about them peculiar to food reformers. Those who are studying wholesomeness and digestibility, however, will avoid as far as possible the use of chemicals for raising, and fats of doubtful purity such as hog's lard. The injurious character of carbonate of soda, tartaric acid, &c., if used at all to excess, is now fully recognised, and those whose health is not quite normal should avoid them entirely. When such cannot be dispensed with, use very sparingly and in the exact quantities and proportions of acid and alkali, which will neutralise each other by converting into a gas which passes off in baking, if the oven, &c., is all right. But the latter point is rather a big and very essential "if," and many cooks try to make up for deficiencies in mixing and firing, by putting in an extra allowance of baking powder. There is considerable diversity of opinion still as to the exact nature and place of these chemicals in the economy of the body, and where "doctors differ" the amateur cook or hygienist dare hardly dogmatise, but all are agreed that the slightest excess is hurtful. Cakes, scones, pastry and the like, should depend rather for lightness upon cool, deft handling, and skilful management of the various details which contribute to successful baking.

A fine essential is to have good, reliable flour. See that it is perfectly dry, and pass several times through a fine sieve to aerate and loosen it. Try to bake in a cool, airy place, and be provided with all the necessary tools for accomplishing the work in expert and expeditious fashion, for the success of many things depends upon the celerity with which the process is performed. Have the oven at just the right heat, at the right time. A cake which would otherwise be excellent may be heavy or tough by having to wait till the oven cools down or heats up to the proper temperature. With a gas oven, one can regulate at will, and a safe general rule is to have the oven thoroughly hot before the cakes are put in, and then to moderate the heat very considerably. With a coal fire, if the oven is too hot, put on a quantity of small coal.

Artox Gingerbread.

One and a half pounds Artox wholemeal, 10 oz. golden syrup, 9 oz. butter, 4 oz. sugar, 1/2 oz. carbonate of soda, 1/2 oz. ginger, 2 eggs, little milk. Cream together the butter and sugar, add the eggs, well beaten, and the syrup, stir until dissolved. Add the Artox wholemeal with the soda and ginger previously sifted in, and a little milk if necessary, to make a stiff batter. Put into greased tins, and bake in a moderate oven.

Artox Seed Cake.

Beat 10 ozs. of fresh butter to a cream, add 6 ozs. sugar and beat into the butter. Separate yokes and whites of 4 eggs and beat each mass separately. Then mix well with the butter and sugar, adding the yokes first and the whites last. Add 1 teaspoonful carraway seeds and 10 ozs. Artox wholemeal. Mix thoroughly, put into butter papered tins and bake in a quick oven.

Artox Shortbread.

One and a quarter pounds Artox wholemeal, 10 ozs. butter, 4 ozs. sugar, 1 egg, 1/4 oz. baking powder. Rub the Artox wholemeal, sugar, and butter together, add the baking powder, and make into a stiff paste with the egg. Mould it into cakes, crimp the edges, and bake in a moderate oven.

French Layer Cake.

1/4 lb. butter or fine nut butter. Four eggs, 1/2 lb. flour, 6 ozs. fine sugar, 1/2 teaspoonful baking powder, 1/2 teaspoonful essence vanilla, 4 ozs. grated chocolate, 2 ozs. icing sugar.

Butter 3 sandwich tins. Dissolve 1 oz. chocolate in pan, with 1 tablespoonful milk, over the fire. Beat butter and sugar to a cream. Beat up eggs very light, laying aside one white for icing, and add. Sift flour and baking powder, and mix in, then flavouring. Put a third in one tin, another in pan with chocolate, and put a few drops carmine in that left in bowl. Put these into the different tins and place at once in hot oven. They should be ready in 10 minutes. Put remaining chocolate with the icing sugar in pan with a tablespoonful water. Boil a minute with constant stirring. Turn out cakes on a towel. Put half of chocolate mixture on one, put another on the top, then the rest of chocolate, and, last, the third cake. Coat with the following

Icing.

Beat up white of 1 egg till quite stiff. Mix in 6 ozs. icing sugar. Put on very smoothly with a broad knife dipped in water. Sprinkle over with grated cocoanut, or decorate with pink icing put through a forcing-bag.

Cocoanut Icing

might be used instead. Dissolve about one fourth of a square of cocoanut cream with a little boiling water. When cool mix thoroughly with half of the above icing.

Gingerbread.

1/2-lb. flour, 1 oz. good cocoanut butter, 1 oz. sugar, and same of syrup or treacle—if the latter use more sugar. Two ozs. stoned raisins or sultanas, 1 teaspoonful ground ginger, and same of mixed spice. Half teaspoonful baking powder. One egg.

Mix all the dry things. Rub in butter, then add syrup, fruit, and egg, and make into a thick batter with milk. Bake in moderate oven half-an-hour or longer. Very good, if made with half wheatmeal, or a proportion of oatmeal or rolled oats.

Jumbles.

1/2-lb. flour, 1/4 lb. butter, 2 ozs. sifted sugar, 1 egg. Pinch baking powder. Beat butter and sugar to a cream, add egg, well beaten, then flour, &c. Knead into a stiff paste, divide into 12 or more pieces, and roll out pipe-wise with the hands, about a foot long. Curl round, or form into letters, &c. Lay on floured oven plate. Brush with egg. Sprinkle with sugar, and bake 15 minutes in hot oven.

Orange Rock Cakes.

1/2-lb. flour, 2 ozs. sugar, 1 teaspoonful baking powder, 1 oz. butter or cocoanut cream butter,[Footnote: [see next footnote]] 1 egg, 1 orange.

Mix flour and sugar, rub in butter. Add yellow part of orange rind, grated, and juice, also the egg well beaten, to make stiff dough. Place a little apart on oven plate, with two forks, in rough pieces about the size of a walnut. Bake about 10 minutes in quick oven.



Dinner Rolls.

1/2 lb. flour, 1 oz. butter or nut butter, 1 egg, 1 teaspoonful baking powder, 1 gill milk, pinch salt. Rub the butter into flour, &c. Beat up egg, lay aside some for brushing, and mix in lightly with barely a gill of milk. Turn on to floured board, and roll out. Divide into a dozen or more pieces. Roll round with the hands. Shape into twists, knots, "figure eights," &c. Put on floured oven plate. Brush over with egg, and bake about seven minutes in very hot oven.

Afternoon Tea Scones.

1/2 lb. flour, 1 teaspoonful baking powder, 2 do. sugar, 1 do. butter or "Nutter." One egg. Mix dry things. Rub in butter, beat egg, and add with as much milk as make nice dough—about 1 gill. Roll out 1/4 in. thick. Stamp out with small cutter or lid. Brush over with egg. Bake 10 minutes.

Cocoanut Cream Scones

are made by adding 1 oz. cocoanut cream [Footnote: NOTE.—Cocoanut or almond cream butter may be used instead of ordinary butter in most recipes for cakes or sweets, and will give variety of flavour.], dissolved in a little of the milk, to the above. Let the "cream" be cool.

Artox Scones.

Two pounds Artox wholemeal, 1/2 lb. butter, 5 oz. sugar, 1/2 oz. cream of tartar, pinch carbonate of soda, 2 eggs, milk. Put the salt, soda, and cream of tartar, into the wholemeal, rub in the butter, stir in the eggs (well beaten), and enough milk to make a stiff paste. Divide the mixture into five, roll each piece out about the size of a cheese plate, divide twice across, place on a greased tin for 10 minutes, bake in a hot oven.

Artox Tea Biscuits.

One and a quarter pounds Artox wholemeal, 3 oz. butter, half teaspoonful baking powder, milk, pinch of salt. Put the wholemeal into a bowl, rub in the butter, add salt and baking powder, and enough milk to make a stiff paste. Roll out, cut into rounds, and bake in a hot oven.

German Biscuits.

1/2 lb. flour, 1/4 lb. butter, 1/4 lb. sugar, 1 egg, 1/2 teaspoonful ground cinnamon.

Rub in butter among flour and sugar. Add cinnamon. Make into a paste with the egg beaten up. Knead till smooth. Roll out thin and stamp into biscuits. Bake about 10 minutes on greased oven plate in moderate oven. Stick two together with a little jam, and ice with 4 ozs. icing sugar mixed with a little water. Dust with pink sugar.



PUDDINGS AND SWEETS.

As a number of favourite puddings and sweets also are given in the last section, it will not be necessary to give here more than a few supplementary ones, mostly introducing specialties which are not so well known as they deserve to be. Besides, all sweet dishes are vegetarian already for the most part, so that there is but little to "reform" about them. Of course, those who wish to have them absolutely pure will substitute vegetable suet or butter, and vegetable gelatine for beef suet and clarified (?) glue.

Almond Custard.

Two eggs, 1/2 pint milk, 2 ozs. Mapleton's almond meal, 1-1/2 ozs. sugar.

Beat eggs with sugar, add almond meal. Almonds blanched and pounded will do, but the meal is ready for use and costs less. Add the milk and a few drops of flavouring. Bake in slow oven till set, or stir till it thickens in jug or double boiler. This is specially good with stewed fruit. It may be made into

Custard Whip Sauce

by putting in saucepan and whisking over the fire till light and frothy. It must not boil.

Banana Custard.

Five or six bananas. Jam. Custard. Peel the bananas, which must be sound and ripe; split lengthways. Spread each half with jam—apricot is very good; put halves together. Lay in glass dish and pour almond custard, or cocoanut cream custard, over.

Cocoanut Cream Custard.

This is made same as almond custard, but using cocoanut cream instead of the almond meal. This cocoanut cream, which is put up in tablets, is exceedingly useful for almost every variety of pudding, icing for cakes, &c. It has only to be chopped down or melted, and serves the double purpose of giving flavour and substance.

Canary Pudding.

Four ozs. flour, 4 ozs. butter or 3 ozs. Table Nut Butter, 2 eggs, 3 ozs. sugar, 1 teaspoonful baking powder.

Melt butter in saucepan. Add the sugar and eggs beaten up, the flour and baking powder; lastly, 2 tablespoonfuls milk. Mix thoroughly. Butter well a plain mould, and put into it some jam or marmalade. Pour in pudding, cover with buttered paper, and steam for 2 hours.

Artox Queen Pudding.

2 oz. Artox bread crumbs, 2 oz. sugar, 1/2 pint milk, rind of half a lemon, 2 eggs, and a little raspberry jam. Boil the milk, pour over crumbs, and add yolks of the eggs, sugar and lemon rind. Bake in a greased pie-dish 20 minutes in a moderate oven, then spread over about 2 tablespoonfuls of hot raspberry jam. Beat up the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth and place over the jam, then put in oven for about three minutes to set.

Appel-Moes (Dutch Recipe).

Peel, core, and slice quantity of apples required. Stew or steam in covered jar with sugar and flavouring of cinnamon. Pulp through a sieve with whipped cream or as a sauce for steamed pudding.

Lemon Sponge.

Soak 1/8 oz. vegetable gelatine in a tumbler of water for an hour. Strain and put in saucepan with a tumbler fresh water and 5 ozs. loaf sugar. Stir till gelatine is dissolved. Add juice of 2 lemons, and strain through sieve. When cool add the whites of two eggs, and switch till quite light and spongy throughout—about three quarters of an hour. Put in mould, or when set pile up in rocky spoonfuls.

Lemon Cream Mould.

1 large lemon, 3 eggs, 6 ozs. sugar, 3/4 pint (3 teacupfuls) milk, 1/6 oz. vegetable gelatine.

Soak gelatine in cold water for at least an hour. Drain and put to come slowly to boil in the milk. Separate whites from yolks of eggs, and put the latter in large basin with the sugar and yellow part of lemon rind grated. Beat thoroughly and strain boiling milk over, stirring all the time. Return to saucepan, bring just to boil, and set aside to cool. Beat up whites of eggs very stiff and mix in lightly, adding the strained juice of lemon. Put in mould or glass dish, and set in cool place till quite firm.

Cobden Pudding.

Four ozs. grain granules, 2 ozs. sugar, 1 oz. cocoanut cream, 3 ozs. stoned raisins, 2 eggs, 3 gills milk.

Put grain granules, sugar, raisins, and cocoanut cream in large basin. Bring milk to boil and pour over. Cover and let stand till cool. Beat up yolks and add, and lastly the whites beaten stiff. Pour into buttered pudding-dish and bake in moderate oven for an hour.



JAMS AND JELLIES.

We have not space to go into these at any length. The following are one or two of my "very own," as the children say, which are voted a great success.

Apple Jam.

Take quantity required—say 7 lbs.—tart crisp apples. Wash well and dry. Pare and core, putting the trimmings in water to cover. Cut up the best of the apples into small pieces—not too thin—and set aside, also covered with cold water. Put on the trimmings to boil with some lemon rind and either a few sticks of cinnamon or some cloves. Simmer for an hour or longer, till all the goodness is drawn out, mashing freely with a wooden spoon. Turn into jelly-bag and allow to drain without pressure. Pour the water off the apples, measure that and the drained juice, and put into preserving pan. Measure the apple chips also, and add when the liquid boils. Allow 14 ozs. loaf sugar to each breakfast cupful, and boil till the apples are clear, but not broken down—about 20 minutes. Skim and pot as usual. If ginger flavouring is preferred, shave down about 6 ozs. preserved ginger, and add when the juice is put on to boil.

Marmalade Jelly.

Take 3 lbs. fruit—6 bitter oranges, 3 sweet ones and 3 lemons. Remove the rinds and grate them small, or put through a mincer. Cut up the oranges, removing the seeds, which put in a tumbler of water. Cover the oranges, &c., with 17 tumblers cold water, and let stand for at least 24 hours. Put all in jelly-pan, including the water drained from the seeds, and let boil gently, for about 2 hours, mashing frequently with a wooden spoon. Let drain without pressure. Measure the juice, and to each pint allow 14 ozs. sugar, which add after the liquid boils. Boil fast for a few minutes, try if it will set. Skim and pot. But the pulp must not be thrown out, for it makes an excellent, if rather homely,

Marmalade,

which comes in specially useful for steamed puddings, &c. Weigh the pulp, and allow equal weight of sugar. Boil gently, taking great care not to burn, till clear—20 to 30 minutes.

Green Gooseberry and Strawberry Jam.

This will be appreciated by those who find the ordinary strawberry jam rather sweet and heavy. Take equal quantities of gooseberries and strawberries—say 3 lbs. of each. Trim the gooseberries, which must be firm and freshly pulled, and wash well. Put on to boil with a teacupful water to each lb. of gooseberries, and boil for 10 minutes. Add the strawberries and the sugar lb. for lb., and boil for 20 minutes longer, or till it will "jell," as Meg would say.

Green Gooseberry Jam

is made with the gooseberries alone, prepared as above. A little grated lemon rind, &c., might be used for flavouring. Then if one is making

Green Gooseberry Jelly,

top and tail the fruit very carefully, removing every tough or discoloured one. Put on to boil, well covered with water. Add flavouring or not as preferred, and simmer gently for an hour or so. Drain without pressure. Allow 14 ozs. to pint of juice, and boil rapidly about 10 minutes. Allow 1 lb. sugar to each lb. of the pulp. Boil together for about 20 minutes, and this will give a very good, if rough and ready, jam.

Jelly without Boiling.

Everyone who can get good red or white currants should try making the jelly without boiling. I got the recipe from a friend many years ago, and can recommend it as a way in which the fresh flavour of the fruit is preserved to perfection. Wring the currants in usual way, and to each pint of juice allow 14 ozs. loaf sugar, which must be pure cane. I believe crystalised will do, but I have never tried it. Granulated or beet sugar will not do. Put juice and sugar in a strong basin and beat with the back of a wooden spoon till the sugar is quite dissolved, which will take about half-an-hour. Skim and pot. It should be quite firm by next day, and will keep for a year or longer—if it escapes consumption.

Bramble Jelly.

This is one of the finest preserves one can make—especially if we have gathered the fruit. The brambles should not be too ripe, but should have a good proportion of hard red ones. Wash well in cold water and put on with water to barely cover. Simmer gently for an hour or longer, bruising well with wooden spoon. Drain without pressure. Measure, and allow 14 ozs. sugar to pint, i.e., breakfast cupful. Allow the juice to boil up well. Add the sugar, boil fast for a few minutes, skim and pot.

NOTE.—Only pure cane sugar should be used for preserves. Add the sugar when the preserve is boiling—nearly ready indeed. It only requires to be thoroughly dissolved and boiled through. This method goes far to prevent burning and loss of flavour.

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BEVERAGES.

We have not space to go into the question of beverages at any length. A few good "drinks" are given under Invalid Dietary, and I would just say that the juice of a squeezed lemon, orange, or other fruit juice is much better than any effervescent or chemicalised beverage. There are, however, some excellent pure fruit-juices now on the market, among which one may mention

Pattinson's Fruit Syrups

and essences for various temperance drinks as being specially good. Many are proscribed on the score of health, &c., from the use of

Tea and Coffee,

but as these will remain first favourites for a long time to come, the first essential is to have them properly prepared, so that there is little if any ill effect. Where tea is most largely and constantly used, as in China and Japan, it is said to be quite innocuous. This may be partly owing to the more wholesome and rational way in which those people live, partly also to the finer quality of tea available, but very largely to the method of preparation. Various devices have been patented to save trouble in changing from one pot to another, but as most of these are rather complicated for daily use, we are glad to learn of a tea which can be prepared in the old comfortable handy way without any ill effects, and this boon seems to be furnished in the

Universal Digestive Tea,

prepared at the Colonial Warehouse, Kendal. By a process—which, by the way, is not kept secret—the tea is treated with oxygen in such a way that the hurtful tannin is neutralised, while none of the other properties are affected in any way. There is certainly no loss of flavour, and no difference that one can discern from the usual, but specially good tea—a fact which will appeal to ordinary tea-drinkers, of whom there are still a majority. For any further information regarding this tea, I would recommend readers to a little pamphlet compiled by Albert Broadbent, Esq., food specialist and lecturer, whose writings on the food question, &c., are well known. It is entitled "The cup that cheers." It explains the process of treatment, and gives medical and analytical testimony in its favour from various authorities of very high standing. The best proof is in the drinking, however, and one may have a sample pound or more carriage paid.