Measurements.

Accurate measurement is necessary to insure success in cooking. As there is such a diversity of opinion as to what constitutes a heaping spoonful, all the measurements given in this book will be by level spoonfuls. A cupful is all the cup will hold without running over, and the cup is one holding 1/2 pint.

The following table may be used where scales are not convenient:—

4 cups of flour = 1 pound or 1 quart. 2 cups of solid butter = 1 " 1/2 cup butter = 1/4 " 2 cups granulated sugar = 1 " 2-1/2 cups powdered sugar = 1 " 3 cups meal = 1 " 1 pint of milk or water = 1 " 1 pint chopped meat, packed solidly = 1 " 9 large eggs, 10 medium eggs = 1 " 2 level tablespoonfuls butter = 1 ounce. 4 " " " = 2 ounces or 1/4 cup. Butter the size of an egg = 2 " " " 2 level tablespoonfuls sugar = 1 " 4 " " flour = 1 " 4 " " coffee = 1 " 4 " " powdered sugar = 1 "

Table of Abbreviations.

Saltspoon ssp. Tablespoon tbsp. Pint pt. Gallon gal. Teaspoon tsp. Cupful cf. Quart qt. Peck pk.

A speck (spk.) is what you can put on a quarter inch square surface.

Time-table for Cooking.

BAKING BREAD, CAKES AND PUDDINGS.

Loaf bread 40 to 60 m. Graham gems 25 to 30 m. Sponge cake 45 to 60 m. Cookies 10 to 15 m. Rice and tapioca 1 hr. Custards 15 to 20 m. Pastry (thin puff) 10 to 15 m. Pie crust 25 to 30 m. Baked beans 6 to 8 hrs. Scalloped dishes 15 to 20 m. Rolls, biscuit 10 to 20 m. Gingerbread 25 to 30 m. Fruit cake 2 to 3 hrs. Bread pudding 1 hr. Indian pudding 2 to 3 hrs. Steamed pudding 1 to 3 hrs. Pastry (thick) 30 to 50 m. Potatoes 30 to 45 m. Braised meat 3 to 4 hrs.

BAKING MEATS.

Beef, sirloin, rare, per lb. 8 to 10 m. Beef, well done, per lb. 12 to 15 m. Beef, rolled rib or rump, per lb. 12 to 15 m. Beef, fillet, per lb. 20 to 30 m. Mutton, rare, per lb. 10 m. Mutton, well done, per lb. 15 m. Lamb, well done, per lb. 15 m. Veal, well done, per lb. 20 m. Pork, well done, per lb. 30 m. Turkey, 10 lbs. weight 2-1/2 hrs. Chicken, 3 to 4 lbs. weight 1 to 1-1/2 hr. Goose, 8 lbs. 2 hrs. Tame duck 1 to 1-1/2 hr. Game 40 to 60 m. Grouse 30 to 40 m. Small birds 20 to 25 m. Venison, per lb. 15 m. Fish, 6 to 8 lbs. 1 hr. Fish, small 30 to 40 m.

VEGETABLES (BOILING).

Rice, green corn, peas, tomatoes, asparagus (hard boiled eggs) 20 to 25 m. Potatoes, macaroni, squash, celery, spinach 25 to 30 m. Young beets, carrots, turnips, onions, parsnips, cauliflower 30 to 45 m. Young cabbage, string beans, shell beans, oyster plant 45 to 60 m. Winter vegetables, oatmeal, hominy and wheat 1 to 2 hrs.

FRYING (DEEP).

Smelts, croquettes, fish balls 1 to 2 m. Muffins, fritters, doughnuts 4 to 6 m. Fish, breaded chops 5 to 7 m.

BROILING.

Steak, 1 inch thick 6 to 8 m. Steak, 1-1/2 inch thick 8 to 10 m. Fish, small 6 to 8 m. Fish, thick 12 to 15 m. Chops 8 to 10 m. Chicken 20 m.

Table of Proportions.

1 qt. of liquid to 3 qts. of flour for bread. 1 qt. of liquid to 2 qts. of flour for muffins. 1 qt. of liquid to 1 qt. of flour for batters. 1 cup of yeast (1 yeast cake) to 1 qt. of liquid. 1 tsp. of soda (level), 3 of cream tartar to 1 qt. of flour. 1 tsp. of soda to 1 pt. of sour milk. 1 tsp. of soda to 1 cup of molasses. 4 tsps. of baking powder to 1 qt. of flour. 1 tsp. of salt to 1 qt. of soup stock. 1 ssp. of salt to 1 loaf of cake. 1 tbsp. of each vegetable, chopped, to 1 qt. of stock. 1-1/2 tbsp. of flour to 1 qt. of stock for thickening soup. 1 tbsp. of flour to 1 pt. of stock for sauces. 1 tsp. of salt to 1 pt. of stock for sauces. 4 tbsps. (level) cornstarch to 1 pt. of milk (to mould). 1 tsp. of salt to 2 qts. of flour for biscuits, etc.

Methods for Flour Mixtures.

STIRRING.

Stirring is simply blending two or more materials by moving the spoon round and round until smooth and of the proper consistency.

BEATING.

Beating is bringing the spoon up through the mixture with a quick movement so as to entangle as much air as possible.

CUTTING OR FOLDING.

Cutting or folding is adding the beaten white of egg to a mixture without breaking the air bubbles, by lifting and turning the mixture over and over as in folding. Do not stir or beat.

* * * * *

RECIPES.

* * * * *

BATTERS, BISCUITS AND BREAD.

POPOVERS.

2 cups of flour. 3 eggs. 2 cups of milk. 1/2 tsp. salt.

Beat the eggs (without separating) until very light, then add the milk and salt; pour this mixture on the flour (slowly), beating all the while. Beat until smooth and light, about five minutes. Grease gem pans or small cups, and bake in a moderately hot oven about thirty-five minutes. They should increase to four times their original size. (This recipe may be divided for class work.)

PANCAKES.

1 pint of flour. 1 tbsp. of melted butter. 1 pint of milk. 2 eggs. 2 tsps. baking powder. 1/2 tsp. salt.

Beat the whites and yolks of the eggs separately; add the yolks to the milk, then the melted butter; salt. Sift the baking powder and flour together, add slowly to the liquid, stir until smooth. Lastly, add the whites of the eggs. These may be cooked in waffle irons or on a griddle.

PANCAKES WITH BUTTERMILK.

1 pint of buttermilk. Flour to make a medium batter. 1/2 tsp. salt. 1/2 tsp. soda.

Crush the soda, add it and the salt to the buttermilk, add the flour gradually, beat until the batter is smooth, and bake on a hot griddle. An egg may be added.

CORNMEAL GRIDDLE CAKES.

1 pint of Indian meal. 1 cup of flour. 1 tsp. salt. 3 eggs. 4 (l.) tsps. baking powder. 1 pint of milk.

Put the meal into a bowl, and pour over it just enough boiling water to scald it; do not make it soft; let stand until cool. Then add the milk; beat the eggs until very light, add them to the batter, add the flour and salt in which the baking powder has been sifted. Mix well, beat vigorously for a minute or two, and bake on a hot griddle.

BREAD GRIDDLE CAKES.

1 pt. of milk. 1/2 tsp. of salt. 1/2 tsp. of soda and 1 tsp. cream tartar. 3 (l.) tsps. baking powder. 1/2 pt. stale bread crumbs. 2 eggs. Flour to make a thin batter.

Soak the bread in the milk for one hour, then beat it smooth. Beat the eggs separately till very light, add first the yolks, then the flour and salt and baking powder. Beat again, add the whites, and bake quickly on a hot griddle.

BUCKWHEAT CAKES.

1 pt. boiling water. 1/2 tsp. salt. 1/2 cup white flour. 1 ssp. soda. 1/2 cup corn or Graham meal. 1/4 yeast cake. 1 cup buckwheat flour.

Pour the boiling water on the corn or Graham meal, add the salt, and when lukewarm add the flour, beat until smooth, then add the yeast. Let it rise over night. In the morning add the soda just before baking (milk may be used instead of water). A tablespoonful of molasses is sometimes added in order to make the cakes a darker brown.

FRITTERS.

Beat two eggs together until light, add to them 1 cup of milk, 1/2 tsp. salt and sufficient flour to make a batter that will drop from the spoon. Beat until smooth. Have ready a deep pan of hot fat; add 3 (l.) tsps. of baking powder to the batter, mix thoroughly and drop by spoonfuls into the hot fat. When brown on one side turn and brown on the other; take out with a skimmer and serve very hot. Do not pierce with a fork as it allows the steam to escape and makes the fritter heavy.

GEMS—WHOLE WHEAT OR GRAHAM GEMS.

2 cups of whole wheat flour. 1/2 tsp. salt. 1 tbsp. sugar. 2 eggs, beaten separately. 1 cup milk. 1 cup water.

Mix flour, salt and sugar. Beat the eggs until light, add the milk and water, stir this into the dry mixture. Bake in hot gem pans for 30 minutes.

CORN MUFFINS.

1 cup cornmeal. 1 cup flour. 1-1/4 cups milk. 2 tbsps. butter. 2 tbsps. sugar. 1/2 tsp. salt. 2-1/2 tsps. baking powder. 1 egg.

Mix all the dry ingredients together. Melt the butter in a hot cup. Beat the egg till light. Add the milk to it and turn this mixture into the bowl containing the dry ingredients. Add the melted butter and beat vigorously and quickly. Pour into buttered muffin or gem pans, and bake for one-half hour in a moderate oven.

QUICK MUFFINS OR GEMS.

1 pt. of milk. 1 oz. butter. 3 cups of flour. 4 tsps. baking powder. 1 tsp. salt. 3 eggs.

Beat the eggs separately till light, add the yolks to the milk, then the flour, which must be more or less, according to the quality. The batter must be thin and pour from the spoon. Now add the melted butter and salt; give the whole a vigorous beating. Now add the baking powder and the well beaten whites, stir till thoroughly mixed. Bake in muffin rings in a quick oven or on the griddle.

TEA BISCUIT.

1 pt. of flour. 1 cup milk. 2-1/2 tsps. baking powder. 1/2 tsp. salt. 1 tbsp. lard or butter. 1/2 tsp. sugar.

Mix thoroughly in a sieve the flour, sugar, salt and baking powder, and rub through the sieve. Rub the butter or lard into this mixture. Now add the milk, stirring quickly with a strong spoon. Sprinkle the board with flour, turn out the dough upon it. Roll to the thickness of about 1/2 inch, cut with a small cutter. Bake in a quick oven. Do not crowd the biscuit in the pan. They should bake from 10 to 15 minutes. (All biscuit doughs should be mixed as soft as it is possible to handle. Sour milk may be used in this recipe by substituting soda for the baking powder.)

HOT CORN BREAD.

1 qt. of cornmeal. 1 tsp. of salt. 1 pt. sour milk or buttermilk. 1 oz. of butter. 2 eggs. 1 tsp. of soda.

Put the cornmeal in a large bowl and pour over it just enough boiling water to scald it through. Let it stand until cold, then add the eggs well beaten, the milk or buttermilk, salt, and butter (melted); beat thoroughly. Dissolve the soda in two tbsps. of boiling water, stir into the mixture, turn quickly into a greased square, shallow pan, put into a hot oven and bake 40 minutes.

SHORTCAKES.

(Suitable for strawberries or any sweetened fruit.)

1 pint flour. 1 cup sweet or sour milk. 1/4 cup butter. 2-1/2 tsps. baking powder, or 1/2 tsp. soda and 1 tsp. cream tartar. 1/2 tsp. salt.

Mix the salt, soda, cream tartar or baking powder with the flour, sift; rub in the butter until fine like meal. Add the liquid gradually, mixing with a knife, and use just enough to make it of a light spongy consistency. Turn the dough out on a well floured board, pat lightly into a flat cake and roll gently till half inch thick. Bake either in a spider or pie plate in the oven; split, butter, and spread with the fruit.

DOUGHNUTS.

1 egg 1 tbsp. melted butter. 1/2 tsp. salt. 1 tsp. cream tartar. Flour enough to make into a soft dough. 1/2 cup sugar. 1 cup milk. 1/2 tsp. soda. 1 ssp. cinnamon.

Mix all the dry ingredients, beat the egg until light, add to this the milk, sugar and melted butter. Pour into the flour, mixing carefully into a soft dough. Have the board well floured. Roll only a large spoonful at a time. Cut into the desired shape and drop into hot fat. The fat should be hot enough for the dough to rise to the top instantly.

* * * * *

BREAD.

As bread is one of the most important articles of the daily diet, it naturally follows that special attention should be given to a subject upon which the health of the family, to a great extent, depends. A knowledge of the chemical changes and their effect (see Chap. VII) must be understood before proficiency in bread-making can be attained. The first element to consider is the yeast, and the generating of carbonic acid gas, so as to have the bread light, tender, and porous.

Yeast is a plant or vegetable growth produced from grain which has commenced to bud or sprout, and which forms the substance called diastase. This substance has the power to convert starch into sugar. (See Chap. VII for effect of yeast upon flour.)

The temperature at which fermentation takes place, and when to check it, are important features of bread-making.

The liquid (milk or water) should be tepid when mixed, as too great heat destroys the growth of the yeast. The dough should rise in a temperature of 75 deg.. After fermentation has become active the temperature may be gradually lowered—as in setting bread over night—without injury.

Avoid a cold draft or sudden change of temperature, as it checks fermentation and affects the flavor.

Never allow bread to rise until it "settles," or runs over the side of the bowl. The usual rule is to let it rise until it is double in bulk, both in the bowl and after it is put into the pans. If it is not convenient to bake the bread when ready, it may be kneaded again and kept in a cool place, to prevent souring. Bread should be mixed in a stone or granite bowl.

The only necessary ingredients for bread are water, flour, salt, and yeast. Sugar may be added to restore the natural sweetness of the flour which has been lost during fermentation, but it is not necessary. If milk is used, and the bread well kneaded, no other shortening is required; but with water, the addition of a little butter or dripping makes the bread more tender, therefore it is more easily penetrated by the digestive fluids. Tough, leathery bread is not easily digested, no matter how light it may be. As already stated, by the action of heat the ferment is killed, the starch-grains ruptured, the gas carried off, and the crust formed. In order that bread may be thoroughly cooked, and plenty of crust formed, each loaf should be baked in a pan about 4 inches deep, 4 to 6 inches wide, and from 8 to 12 inches long. Smaller loaves are even more desirable. It is very difficult to bake a large loaf so as to insure the escape of all the carbonic acid gas, and to cook the starch sufficiently without injuring the crust, besides entailing an unnecessary waste of fuel. The custom of baking several loaves together in one large pan is contrary to all scientific rules of bread-making. The oven should be hot enough to brown a spoonful of flour in five minutes, for bread. The dough should rise during the first fifteen minutes, then begin to brown; keep the heat steady for the next fifteen or twenty minutes, then decrease it. If the oven is too hot a hard crust will form and prevent the dough from rising, which will not only cause the bread to be heavy, but will prevent the gas from escaping. If, on the other hand, the oven is not hot enough, the bread will go on rising until it becomes sour. A loaf, the size already mentioned, should take from fifty-five to sixty minutes to bake, and should give a hollow sound, if tapped, when removed from the oven. Better take too long than not long enough, as doughy bread is most objectionable and unwholesome. If the crust is beginning to burn, cover the loaf with brown paper, and reduce the heat, but have a brown crust, not a whity-brown, which is usually hard and without flavor. Upon removing the loaves from the pans, place them on a rack, where the air may circulate freely. Never leave warm bread on a pine table, or where it will absorb odors.

BREAD MADE WITH WATER.

2 quarts flour. 1 tbsp. sugar. 1 pint lukewarm water. 1 tsp. salt. 1 tbsp. butter, dripping or lard. 1/2 cake compressed yeast, dissolved in 1/2 cup water.

(This recipe is for Manitoba flour. A little more fine flour would be necessary.)

Sift the flour. Put the salt, sugar and butter into a large bowl, pour on the warm water, stir until they are dissolved. Add the flour gradually until it forms a thin batter, then add the yeast; beat vigorously for at least five minutes. Add more flour until the dough is stiff enough to knead. Turn out on the board and knead for half hour. Cover and let rise until double its bulk. Form into separate loaves, put into the pans, cover, and let rise again till double its bulk. Bake in a hot oven about an hour. (Milk or half milk may be substituted in this recipe.)

BREAD (WITH A SPONGE).

1 tbsp. butter. 1 tbsp. sugar. 1/2 cup yeast or 1/2 yeast cake. 1 tsp. salt. 1 pt. water. About 2 qts. flour.

Put the butter, sugar and salt in the mixing bowl, add 1/4 cup boiling water to dissolve them; then add enough lukewarm water to make a pint, 3 cups of flour, then the yeast (if the cake is used dissolve in 1/4 cup tepid water). Give it a vigorous beating, cover, and let it rise over night. In the morning add flour to make it stiff enough to knead. Knead for 1/2 hour. Cover closely, let it rise till it doubles its bulk; shape into loaves; let it rise again in the pans; bake as directed in previous recipe.

WHOLE WHEAT OR GRAHAM BREAD.

1 pt. milk, scalded and cooled. 1 tsp. salt. 2 cups white flour. 2 tbsps. sugar. 5 or 6 cups whole wheat flour. 1/2 yeast cake or 1/2 cup yeast.

Mix in the same order as given in previous recipes. Whole wheat flour makes a softer dough, consequently does not require so much kneading, otherwise it should be treated the same as other bread, allowing it a little longer time for baking; if too moist, a cupful of white flour may be added.

YEAST.

Steep 1/2 cup of loose hops in 1 quart of boiling water, in a granite kettle, 5 minutes. Mix 1 cup of flour, 1/4 of a cup sugar and 1 tbsp. salt. Strain the hop liquor and pour it boiling into the flour mixture. Boil 1 minute, or till thick. When cooled add 1 cup of yeast. Cover and set in a warm place until foamy, which will be in 4 or 5 hours. Pour into stone jars, which should be not more than half full, and keep in a cool place. (Three boiled potatoes may be mashed smoothly and added to this yeast if desired.)

* * * * *

SAUCES AND MILK SOUPS.

WHITE SAUCE.

(For Vegetables, Eggs, etc.)

1 pt. milk. 4 (l.) tbsps. flour. 1/2 ssp. white pepper. 2 tbsps. butter. 1/2 tsp. salt.

Heat the milk over hot water. Put the butter in a granite saucepan and stir till it melts, being careful not to brown. Add the dry flour, and stir quickly till well mixed. Add the milk gradually, stirring carefully (especially from the sides) until perfectly smooth. Let it boil until it thickens, then add salt and pepper.

In using this sauce for creamed oysters, add 1/2 tsp. of celery salt, a few grains of cayenne pepper, and a tsp. of lemon juice.

DRAWN BUTTER SAUCE.

1 pt. hot water or stock. 1/2 cup butter. 1/2 ssp. pepper. 4 (l.) tbsps. flour. 1/2 tsp. salt.

Put the butter in the saucepan; when melted add the dry flour, and mix well. Add the hot water or stock a little at a time, and stir rapidly till it thickens; when smooth add the salt and pepper. Be careful to have all sauces free from lumps. (Hard boiled eggs may be added to this sauce for baked or boiled fish. Two tbsps. of chopped parsley may be added if parsley sauce is desired.)

BROWN SAUCE.

1 pt. hot stock. 2 tbsps. butter. 1/2 tsp. salt. 1 tbsp. lemon juice. 2 tbsps. minced onions. 4 tbsps. flour. 1/2 ssp. pepper. Caramel enough to color.

Mince the onion and fry it in the butter 5 minutes. Be careful not to burn it. When the butter is browned add the dry flour, and stir well. Add the hot stock a little at a time; stir rapidly until it thickens and is perfectly smooth. Add the salt and pepper. Simmer 5 minutes, and strain to remove the onion.

CARAMEL FOR COLORING SOUPS AND SAUCES.

Melt 1 cup of sugar with 1 tbsp. of water in a frying-pan. Stir until it becomes of a dark brown color. Add 1 cup of boiling water, simmer 10 minutes, and bottle when cool. This coloring is useful for many purposes, and is more wholesome than browned butter.

MOCK BISQUE SOUP.

1 pt. stewed tomatoes. 2 tbsps. flour. 1/2 tsp. soda. 1 tsp. salt. 1 pt. milk. 2 tbsps. butter. 1/4 tsp. pepper.

Reserve 1/2 cup of the milk, put the remainder on to cook in a stew-pan. Mix the flour with the cold milk, and stir into the boiling milk. Cook for 10 minutes, then add the salt, pepper and butter. Stir the soda into the hot tomatoes and stir 1/2 minute, then rub through a strainer. Add the strained tomatoes to the thickened milk, and serve at once.

POTATO SOUP.

4 potatoes, medium size. 2 tbsps. minced celery. 2 tbsps. of flour. 1/4 tsp. of pepper. 1/2 tsp. minced parsley. 1-1/2 pints of milk. 4 tbsps. minced onions. 1 tsp. of salt. 1 tbsp. of butter.

Pare the potatoes, place on the fire in enough boiling water to cover, and cook for 30 minutes. Reserve 1/2 cup milk, put the remainder in the double boiler with the onion and celery and place on the fire. Mix the cold milk with the flour and stir into the boiling milk. When the potatoes are cooked pour off the water, mash them until fine and light. Gradually beat into them the milk; now add salt, pepper and butter, and rub the soup through a sieve. Return to the fire and add the minced parsley; simmer for 5 minutes and serve immediately. (The parsley may be omitted and celery salt substituted for the minced celery.)

CELERY SOUP.

1 head celery. 1 pint milk. 1 tbsp. butter. 1/2 tsp. salt. 1 pint water. 1 tbsp. chopped onion. 2 tbsps. flour. 1/2 ssp. pepper.

Wash and scrape the celery, cut into 1/2 inch pieces, put it into the pint of boiling salted water and cook until very soft. Mash in the water in which it was boiled. Cook the onion with the milk in a double boiler 10 minutes and add it to the celery. Rub all through a strainer and put on to boil again. Melt the butter in a saucepan, stir in the flour and cook until smooth, but not brown, then stir it into the boiling soup. Add the salt and pepper; simmer 5 minutes and strain into the tureen. Serve very hot.

* * * * *

EGGS.

While eggs are nutritious and valuable as food they should not be used too freely, as they are a highly concentrated form of food. The albumen (white) of egg is one of the most valuable tissue builders. Much depends upon the manner in which they are cooked. Eggs fried in fat or hard boiled are very indigestible. Do not use an egg until it has been laid some hours, as the white does not become thick till then and cannot be beaten stiff. Eggs should be kept in a cool dark place, and handled carefully in order to avoid mixing the white and yolk, which causes the egg to spoil quickly.

BOILED EGGS.

Have the water boiling in a saucepan. Put in the eggs and move to the back of the stove where the water will keep hot, about 175 or 180 F., for from 8 to 10 minutes. If the back of the stove is too hot, move to the hearth. The white should be of a soft, jelly-like consistency, the yolks soft but not liquid. An egg to be cooked soft should never be cooked in boiling water.

HARD BOILED EGGS.

Cook eggs for 20 minutes in water just below the boiling point. The yolk of an egg cooked 10 minutes is tough and indigestible; 20 minutes will make it dry and mealy, when it is more easily penetrated by the gastric fluid.

POACHED EGGS.

Have a clean, shallow pan nearly full of salted and boiling water. Remove the scum and let the water just simmer. Break each egg carefully into a saucer and slip it gently into the water. Dip the water over it with the end of the spoon, and when a film has formed over the yolk and the white is like a soft jelly, take up with a skimmer and place on a piece of neatly trimmed toast. This is the most wholesome way of cooking eggs for serving with ham or bacon.

OMELET.

Beat the yolks of two eggs, add two tbsps. of milk, 1 ssp. of salt and 1/4 of a ssp. of pepper. Beat the whites till stiff and dry. Cut and fold them into the yolks till just covered. Have a clean, smooth omelet pan (or spider). When hot, rub well with a teaspoonful of butter; see that the butter is all over the pan, turn in the omelet and spread evenly on the pan. Cook until slightly browned underneath, being careful not to let it burn; set in a hot oven until dry on top. When dry throughout, run a knife round the edge, tip the pan to one side, fold the omelet and turn out on a hot platter. This may be made by beating the whites and yolks together for a plain omelet. A little chopped parsley, a little fine grated onion, a tbsp. or two of chopped ham, veal or chicken may be spread on the omelet before folding.

CUP CUSTARDS.

1 pt. of milk. 1/4 cup of sugar. 2 eggs. 1/2 ssp. grated nutmeg.

Beat the eggs until light, then add the sugar; beat again, add the milk and nutmeg, stir until the sugar is dissolved. Pour into custard cups, stand the cups in a pan of boiling water and then put the pan in the oven. Bake until the custards are set, or until a knife may be slipped into the centre without anything adhering to it. When done, take them out of the water and stand away to cool. (This custard may be poured into a baking dish and baked in a quick oven until firm in the centre.)

BOILED CUSTARD.

1 pt. of milk. 2 tbsps. sugar. 2 eggs. 1/2 tsp. vanilla.

Put the milk on in the double boiler, beat the sugar and yolks of eggs together until light, then stir them into the boiling milk; stir until it begins to thicken, then take it from the fire; add the vanilla and stand aside to cool. When cool, pour into a glass dish. Beat the whites until stiff, add three tbsps. of powdered sugar gradually. Heap them on a dinner plate and stand in the oven a moment until slightly brown, then loosen from the plate, slip off gently on top of the custard; serve very cold.

* * * * *

FRUIT.

If people would only realize the value of fruit in its natural state, much of the time devoted to the preparation of pies, puddings, etc., would be saved. All uncooked fruit should be thoroughly ripe and served fresh and cold. Sometimes fruit is more easily digested when the woody fibre has been softened by cooking than when in its natural state, therefore a few simple recipes for cooking fruit are given.

APPLESAUCE.

Pare, core and quarter 6 or 8 tart apples. Make a syrup with 1/2 cup of sugar, 1/2 cup of water, and a little grated lemon peel. When boiling, add the apples and cook carefully till they are just tender, but not broken. Remove them carefully, boil the syrup down a little and pour it over the apples. (For serving with roast goose, etc., cook the apples in a little water, mash until smooth, add sugar to taste.)

CODDLED APPLES.

Pare tart apples of uniform size; remove the cores without breaking the apples. Stand them in the bottom of a granite kettle, sprinkle thickly with sugar, cover the bottom of the kettle with boiling water, cover closely and allow the apples to steam on the back part of the stove till tender. Lift carefully without breaking, pour the syrup over them and stand away to cool (delicious served with whipped cream).

STEWED PRUNES.

Wash carefully and soak in water an hour before cooking, put them into a porcelain or granite kettle, cover with boiling water and let them simmer until tender. Add a tbsp. of sugar for each pint of prunes, and boil a few moments longer.

CRANBERRIES.

Put 1 pint of cranberries in a granite saucepan, 1 cup of sugar, 1 cup of water. After they begin to boil cook 10 minutes, closely covered. (This may be pressed through a sieve while hot, removing the skins, if desired for a mould.)

STEWED RHUBARB.

Wash the rhubarb (if young and tender it will not be necessary to remove the skin), cut into pieces about 1 inch long. To every lb. of rhubarb allow 1 lb. of sugar. Put the rhubarb into a porcelain or granite kettle, cover with the sugar, and stand on the back part of the fire until the sugar melts. Move forward, let simmer for a few minutes without stirring, turn it out carefully to cool.

BAKED PEARS.

Take large, sweet pears, wipe them but do not remove the stems. Stand them in an earthen baking dish, pour around them a cup of boiling water, add 2 tbsps. sugar, cover with another dish and bake slowly until the pears are tender, basting occasionally with the liquor. When done, stand away to cool in the dish in which they were baked. When cold put them into a glass dish, pour the liquor over them and serve.

BAKED APPLES.

Pare and core, without breaking, tart apples. Put them into a shallow earthen dish, fill the cavities with sugar, add water to cover the bottom of the dish. Bake in a quick oven till soft, basting often with the syrup. (Quinces may be baked in the same way.)

* * * * *

VEGETABLES.

Vegetables should be used very freely, as they contain saline substances which counteract the effect of too much meat, and are the chief source of mineral supply for the body. In cooking vegetables, a common rule is to add salt, while cooking, to all classes growing above ground (including onions), and to omit salt in the cooking of vegetables growing underground. In cooking vegetables care must be taken to preserve the flavor, and to prevent the waste of mineral matter.

CABBAGE.

Cut a small head of cabbage in quarters, soak in cold water 1 hour, drain and shake dry. Remove the stalk, or hard part, and chop the remainder rather fine. Put it into a stew-pan with enough boiling water to cover, and boil 20 minutes. Drain in a colander. Turn into a hot dish, and pour over it cream sauce or a little melted butter, pepper and salt.

CAULIFLOWER.

Pick off the outside leaves, soak in cold salted water, top downwards, for 1 hour. Tie it round with a piece of twine to prevent breaking. Cook in boiling salted water until tender, remove the string, turn into a hot dish with the top up, cover with cream sauce or drawn butter sauce. (When cold, it may be picked to pieces and served in a salad.)

CELERY.

Scrape clean and cut the stalks into 2-inch pieces: cook in salted water until tender, drain and cover with a white sauce. The sauce should be made with the water in which the celery has been stewed.

BOILED BEETS.

Wash, but do not cut them, as that injures the color. Cook in boiling water until tender. When cooked put them into a pan of cold water and rub off the skins. They may be cut in slices and served hot with pepper, butter and salt, or sliced, covered with vinegar, and served cold. They may be cut into dice and served as a salad, either alone or mixed with potatoes and other vegetables.

BEANS (DRIED).

Lima beans should be soaked in warm water over night. In the morning drain off this water and cover with fresh warm water. Two hours before needed drain, cover with boiling water and boil 30 minutes; drain again, cover with fresh boiling water, and boil until tender. Add a teaspoonful of salt while they are boiling. When cooked drain them, add a little butter, pepper and salt, or a cream sauce.

ASPARAGUS.

Wash the asparagus well in cold water, reject the tough parts, tie in a bunch or cut into pieces 1 inch long. Put it in a kettle, cover with boiling water, and boil until tender. Put it in a colander to drain. Serve with melted butter, pepper and salt, or with a cream or drawn butter sauce.

ONIONS.

Scald in boiling water, then remove the skins. Put them in boiling salted water; when they have boiled 10 minutes, change the water. Boil until tender but not until broken. Drain and serve with either cream sauce or butter, pepper and salt.

POTATOES.

Wash and scrub with a brush. If old, soak in cold water after paring. Put them in boiling water, when about half cooked add a tbsp. of salt. Cook until soft but not broken. Drain carefully. Expose the potatoes for a minute to a current of air, then cover and place on the back of the stove to keep hot, allowing the steam to escape.

RICE POTATOES.

Press the cooked potatoes through a coarse strainer into the dish in which they are to be served.

MASHED POTATOES.

To 1 pint of hot boiled potatoes, add 1 tbsp. butter, 1/2 tsp. of salt, 1/2 ssp. of white pepper and hot milk or cream to moisten. Mash in the kettle in which they were boiled, beat with a fork until they are light and creamy. Turn lightly into a dish.

POTATO PUFFS.

Prepare as for mashed potatoes, adding a little chopped parsley or celery salt if the flavor is liked. Beat 2 eggs, yolks and whites separately. Stir the beaten whites in carefully, shape into smooth balls or cones, brush lightly with the beaten yolks, and bake in a moderately hot oven until brown.

CREAMED POTATOES.

Cut cold boiled potatoes into thin slices. Put them in a shallow pan, cover with milk and cook until the potatoes have absorbed nearly all the milk. To 1 pint of potatoes, add 1 tbsp. of butter, 1/2 tsp. of salt, 1/2 ssp. of pepper and a little chopped parsley or onion.

BAKED POTATOES.

Select smooth potatoes of uniform size, wash and scrub well. Bake in a hot oven about 45 minutes or until soft. Break the skin or puncture with a fork to let the steam escape and serve at once. This is the most wholesome method of cooking potatoes, as the mineral matter is retained.

FRIED POTATOES.

Pare, wash and cut into slices or quarters. Soak in cold salted water, drain and dry between towels. Have sufficient fat in a kettle to more than cover the potatoes. When it is very hot drop the potatoes in, a few at a time, so as not to reduce the heat of the fat too quickly. When brown, which should be in about 4 or 5 minutes for quarters and about 2 minutes if sliced, drain and sprinkle with salt.

TOMATOES (RAW).

Scald and peel sometime before using, place on ice, and serve with salt, sugar and vinegar, or with a salad dressing.

SCALLOPED TOMATOES.

Scald and peel as many tomatoes as required. Butter a deep dish and sprinkle with fine bread or cracker crumbs, then a layer of sliced tomato, over this sprinkle a little salt, pepper and sugar; then add a layer of bread crumbs, another of tomatoes, sprinkle again with salt, pepper and sugar: put bread crumbs on the top, moisten with a little melted butter, and bake until brown.

STEWED TOMATOES.

Pour boiling water over the tomatoes, remove the skins and the hard green stem, cut into quarters or slices and stew in a granite kettle until the pulp is soft, add salt, pepper, butter and a little sugar if desired. If too thin the tomato may be thickened with crumbs or cornstarch wet in a little cold water.

SPINACH.

Pick over carefully, discarding all decayed leaves. Wash thoroughly, then place in a pan of cold water, let stand for a few minutes. Drain and put in a large kettle with just enough water to keep it from burning. Cook very slowly until tender. Drain and chop fine, add 1 tbsp. of butter, a tsp. of salt, a ssp. of pepper. It may be served on toast (hot) or garnished with hard boiled eggs.

CARROTS AND TURNIPS.

Carrots as a vegetable for the table are more palatable when young and tender. They should be washed and scraped, boiled until tender, and served with butter, pepper and salt or a white sauce. Turnips contain little nutriment; having no starch, they are very suitable for eating with potatoes. They require more salt than any other vegetable, and should be served with fat meat, corned beef, roast pork or mutton. Turnips should be washed, pared, cut into slices or strips, boiled until tender. Drain, mash and season with pepper and salt.

PEAS (GREEN).

Wash the pods, which should be green, crisp and plump, before shelling, then the peas will not require washing. Put the peas into a strainer or colander and shake out all the fine particles. Boil until tender. When nearly done add the salt. Use little water in cooking, when they may be served without draining; season with a little butter, pepper and salt. If drained, serve either dry with butter, pepper and salt, or with a white sauce.

GREEN SWEET CORN.

Remove the husk and silky fibre, cover with boiling water (the flavor is improved by adding a few of the clean inner husks) and cook, if young and tender, from 10 to 15 minutes. Try a kernel and take up the corn as soon as the milk has thickened and the raw taste is destroyed.

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SALADS.

FRENCH DRESSING.

3 tbsps. of olive oil. 1/4 tsp. of salt. 1 tbsp. vinegar. 1/2 ssp. of pepper or speck of cayenne.

Mix these ingredients together and serve. This makes a particularly good dressing for lettuce or vegetable salads.

SALAD DRESSING.

1/2 cup vinegar. 1 tbsp. sugar. 1/2 tsp. salt. 1/2 cup cream. 2 eggs. 1/2 tsp. mustard. A speck of cayenne pepper.

Beat the eggs well, mix the sugar, salt, mustard and pepper together, add to the beaten eggs, then add the vinegar. Place the saucepan on the range in a pan of boiling water. Stir constantly until the dressing becomes thick and light. Take from the fire and turn into a cold bowl at once to prevent curdling. Beat the cream to a thick froth and stir it into the cold dressing. (When cream is not available use the same quantity of milk, previously thickened to the consistency of cream with a little cornstarch, add a tsp. of butter; when cold, add to the dressing.)

MAYONNAISE DRESSING.

1/2 pt. of olive oil. 1 tsp. mustard. 1/2 tsp. salt. Yolks of 2 uncooked eggs. 1 tbsp. lemon juice. 1 tbsp. vinegar. 1/2 tsp. sugar. A speck of cayenne.

Put the yolks of the eggs into a cold bowl, stir in the dry ingredients, beat well, using a silver or small wooden spoon. Then add the oil, drop by drop. When the mixture gets so thick that it is difficult to stir, add a few drops of the vinegar to thin it. Continue stirring in the oil and vinegar alternately until all are used, when it should be very thick; add the lemon juice last and beat for a few minutes longer; a cupful of whipped cream may be stirred into this dressing before using. (The following rules must be observed in order to insure success: (1) to beat the yolks and dry ingredients until thick; (2) to add the oil only in drops at first; (3) always beat or stir in one direction, reversing the motion is apt to curdle the dressing.)

LETTUCE SALAD.

Choose crisp, fresh lettuce, wash clean, let it remain for a little time in cold or ice water, drain thoroughly, break or tear the leaves into convenient pieces, dress with a French or cooked dressing; serve at once, cold.

POTATO SALAD.

1 pt. cold boiled potatoes. 1/2 tsp. salt. 1/2 cup cooked dressing. Or the French dressing, as given. 1 tsp. finely chopped onion. 1 sp. pepper.

Cut the potatoes into pieces about the size of dice, mix the seasonings with the potatoes, turn into a dish in alternate layers of potatoes and dressing, having a little dressing on top. Garnish with parsley, and allow to stand at least an hour in a cold place before serving, so that the potatoes may absorb the seasoning. (Cold boiled beets cut into cubes may be added in alternate layers with the potatoes in this recipe, using a little more dressing.)

TOMATO SALAD.

Peel the tomatoes (without scalding) and put them on ice until very cold, have crisp leaves of lettuce which have been washed and dried. When ready to serve, cut the tomatoes in halves, place one-half on a leaf of lettuce (the curly leaves being the best), on this put a tbsp. of mayonnaise or cooked dressing, and serve immediately.

CABBAGE SALAD.

Cabbage or celery may be used as a salad by cutting rather fine, allowing it to get cold and crisp, and serving with a cooked or French dressing. Indeed almost any vegetable may be used for a salad. String beans, asparagus, cauliflower, which have been cooked, are suitable for salad, either alone or in combination with nasturtium, cress, hard boiled eggs, etc.

CHICKEN SALAD.

One pint each of cold boiled or roasted chicken and celery. Cut the chicken into 1/4-inch dice, scrape, wash and cut the celery into dice, put the celery in a napkin and lay on the ice for 10 or 12 minutes; season the chicken with vinegar, salt, pepper and oil (or the French dressing-oil may be omitted if the flavor is not agreeable, substituting cream or melted butter). Add the celery to the seasoned chicken, add half the dressing (using either a cooked or mayonnaise), heap in a dish, add the remainder of the dressing, garnish with the tiny bleached celery leaves or small curly lettuce leaves. (A few capers and a hard boiled egg may be used as a garnish if desired.)

In summer the chicken may be served on a tender lettuce leaf, adding a spoonful of dressing, and serving very cold.

FRUIT SALAD.

4 oranges. 1 cup water. 1/4 package gelatine. 4 bananas. Juice of 2 lemons. 1-1/2 cup sugar.

Dissolve the gelatine in the water, add the sugar and lemon juice, strain and pour over the oranges and bananas, which have been peeled and sliced and placed in alternate layers in a mould. Set away to cool. When needed, turn out and serve. Garnish with Malaga grapes, cherries, currants, or any suitable fruit.

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CEREALS.

All cereals require thorough cooking, because of the starch in them, also to soften the woody fibre. No matter what the cereal product may be, it should be cooked not less than three-quarters of an hour, and better if cooked longer.

OATMEAL PORRIDGE.

1 pt. of boiling water. 1/2 cup of oatmeal. 1/2 tsp. salt.

Be sure to have the water boiling. Sprinkle in the oatmeal slowly, stirring all the time. Add the salt, and move back or set in a vessel of boiling water where it will cook gently for 1 hour. Do not stir the porridge after the first 5 minutes.

All porridge (or mush) is made on the same principle.

CRACKED WHEAT

Should be cooked at least 4 or 5 hours.

CORNMEAL

Should be cooked an hour or more.

RICE.

Wash 1 cup of rice. Have 2 quarts of water, with 1 tbsp. salt, boiling rapidly. Sprinkle in the rice gradually, when you have it all in cover the kettle and boil 20 minutes. If too thick add a little boiling water. Test the grains, and the moment they are soft, and before the starch begins to cloud the water, pour into a colander to drain. Stand it in the oven a few minutes to dry, leaving the door open. Turn carefully into a heated dish and serve without a cover. (Do not stir the rice while cooking.)

RICE CROQUETTES.

1 pint of milk. 4 (l.) tbsps. of sugar. 1/2 cup raisins. 1/2 cup of rice. 1/2 tsp. vanilla. Yolks of two eggs.

Wash the rice and put it into the boiling milk in a double boiler. Cook until very thick; add the yolks of the eggs and the sugar, beat thoroughly. Take from the fire, add the vanilla and the fruit, which has been well floured. Turn out on a dish to cool, when cold form in pyramids or cylinders; dip first in beaten egg, then in fine bread crumbs and fry in deep, boiling fat. Put a little jelly on the top of each croquette, dust the whole with powdered sugar, and serve with vanilla sauce or cream and sugar.

BAKED RICE.

Wash 1/2 cup of rice, turn into a buttered pudding dish, add 2 tbsps. sugar, grate 1/4 of a small nutmeg, add 1 qt. of milk, bake slowly for at least 1-1/2 hour.

FARINA.

1 pint of milk. 3 level tbsps. of farina.

Put the milk in the double boiler, when the milk boils add the salt, then sprinkle in the farina, stirring all the while; beat the mixture well and cook for 30 minutes. Serve with cream and sugar. (This may be made into a pudding by adding an egg, 2 tbsps. sugar, 1/2 tsp. vanilla, baking in the oven until brown.)

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MACARONI.

Macaroni is quite as valuable as bread for food, and should be used very freely.

BOILED MACARONI.

Break the macaroni in pieces about 2 inches long. Have boiling water, add a tsp. of salt; throw in the macaroni and boil rapidly 30 minutes, put it into a colander to drain, return to the kettle, rub a tbsp. of butter and flour together until smooth, add either milk or water until the sauce is as thick as rich cream. Cook it a few minutes before pouring over the macaroni, and serve (add salt to taste).

MACARONI WITH TOMATO SAUCE.

1/4 lb. macaroni. 1 tbsp. butter. Salt and pepper to taste. 1 tbsp. flour. 1 cup stewed tomatoes.

Hold the long sticks of macaroni in the hand; put the end into boiling salted water, as it softens bend and coil in the water without breaking. Boil rapidly 20 minutes. When done put it in a colander to drain. Put the butter in a saucepan to melt, add to it the flour, mix until smooth, then add the tomatoes (which have been strained), stir carefully until it boils. Pour over the hot macaroni and serve at once.

MACARONI AND CHEESE.

1/4 lb. of macaroni. 1/4 lb. grated cheese. Salt and white pepper to taste. 1/2 pt. milk. 1 tsp. butter.

Break the macaroni in pieces about 3 inches long. Put it into plenty of boiling water. Add 1 tsp. salt and boil rapidly 25 minutes; drain, throw into cold water to blanch for 10 minutes. Put the milk into the double boiler, add to it the butter, then the macaroni which has been drained, and cheese; stir until heated, add the salt and pepper, and serve. (The macaroni may be placed in a baking dish in alternate layers with the cheese, sprinkling each layer with pepper and salt, pouring the milk over the top, cutting the butter in small bits distributed over the top, and bake until brown in a moderately quick oven.)

* * * * *

CHEESE.

CHEESE SOUFFLE.

1/4 lb. of cheese. 1 ssp. of soda. A speck of cayenne. 2 tbsps. flour. 1/2 cup of milk. 1 tsp. mustard. 2 eggs. 2 tbsps. butter.

Put the butter in a saucepan, when melted stir in the flour, add the milk slowly, then the salt, mustard and cayenne, which have been mixed together. Add the yolks of the eggs which have been well beaten, then the grated cheese; stir all together, lift from the fire and set away to cool. When cold, add the stiff beaten whites, turn into a buttered dish and bake 25 or 30 minutes. Serve immediately.

WELSH RAREBIT.

1/4 lb. cheese. 1 tsp. mustard. A speck of cayenne. 1 tsp. butter. 1/4 cup cream or milk. 1/2 tsp. salt. 1 egg.

Grate the cheese, put it with the milk in the double boiler. While this is heating, make some toast. Mix the mustard, salt and pepper, add the egg and beat well. When the cheese has melted, stir in the egg and butter, and cook about two minutes, or until it thickens a little, but do not let it curdle. Pour it over the hot toast and serve at once.

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BEVERAGES.

TEA.

In making tea, the following rules should be observed. The water should be freshly boiled. The teapot, which should be of earthen or china (never of tin), should be scalded and heated before putting in the tea. Pour on the boiling water and cover closely, and let stand for 3 or 4 minutes before using. Never, under any circumstances, allow tea to boil. The usual proportion is a small teaspoonful of tea to 1 cup of boiling water, but this is too strong for general use.

COFFEE.

Coffee may be made in various ways; by filtering, clarifying with an egg, or made with cold water. A common rule for making coffee is as follows: 1 heaping tbsp. ground coffee to 2 cups of freshly boiling water, 1 egg shell. Scald the coffee-pot, put in the coffee and the egg shell, add the boiling water, cover and boil just 3 minutes. Before serving, add a tbsp. of cold water; let stand for a few minutes before using.

COFFEE MADE WITH AN EGG.

1 egg is sufficient to clear 1 cup of ground coffee; if a smaller quantity be desired, half the egg may be used. Add 1/2 cup cold water to the portion of egg to be used, and 1/2 cup of ground coffee. Beat well, put it in the coffee-pot, add 1 qt. of boiling water, and boil 3 minutes. Move back where it will keep hot, but not boil, for 10 minutes. Pour out a little and pour it back again to clear the spout before serving.

COCOA.

1 pt. of milk. 3 tbsps. of water. 2 (l.) tsps. of cocoa.

Put the milk in the double boiler and set on the fire, mix the cocoa to a smooth paste with the cold water. When the milk boils, add the cocoa and boil for 1 minute. Serve very hot. If more water and less milk be used, allow a little more cocoa.

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SOUPS.

Soups may be divided into two classes, soup made with stock, and with milk. As soup should form part of the regular daily diet, and may be made from the cheaper materials, it is absolutely necessary that every housekeeper should understand the art of making it properly.

In the first place it is well to know what may be used in the process of soup making. The first and most important step is to prepare the stock. For this purpose have a large earthen bowl or "catch all," as some teachers call it. Into this put all the bones, trimmings, bits of steak or chop and gravy which has been left over. Keep in a cold place. When needed, cover with cold water and simmer 4 or 5 hours; strain and set away to cool. When cold, remove the fat which will have formed a solid coating on the top. The stock is now ready for use. By saving the remains of vegetables cooked for the table, the outer stocks of celery, a hard boiled egg, etc., a very palatable and nutritious soup may be made at a trifling cost. In families where large quantities of meat are used, there should be sufficient material without buying meat for soup. It is not necessary to have all the ingredients mentioned in some recipes in order to secure satisfactory results. It will, however, be necessary to understand soup flavorings, so as to know which ones may be left out. Stock made from the shin of beef, or from the cheaper pieces which contain the coarser fibre and gristle, require long, slow cooking (see Methods).

Never soak meat in water before cooking in any form. Wipe carefully with a damp cloth before cutting or preparing for use. For soup break or saw the bones into small pieces, and for each pound of meat and bone allow 1 qt. of cold water. Cover the kettle closely and let it heat slowly until it reaches the simmering point, when it should be moved back and kept at that degree for several hours. Soup should never be allowed to boil hard. The scum which rises to the surface is the albumen and juices of the meat, and should not be skimmed off. If the kettle is clean, and all impurities removed from the meat, there will not be anything objectionable in the scum. Stock must always be allowed to remain until cold, so that the fat may be removed before using. A strong, greasy soup is rarely relished, and is one of the principal reasons why so many people dislike this valuable article of diet. Do not add salt to the meat which is being prepared for stock until a few minutes before removing from the fire. Salt hardens the water if added at first and makes the tissues more difficult to dissolve. Stock may be kept for several days by occasionally bringing it to the boiling point. This is not necessary in winter if it is kept in a cold place.

VEGETABLE SOUP.

1 qt. stock. 1/2 cup each chopped turnip and cabbage. 1 tsp. sugar. 1 ssp. pepper. 1/2 cup each of onion, carrot, celery (chopped). 1-1/2 tsp. salt.

If all these vegetables are not available, a little macaroni, rice or barley may be added. Chop all the vegetables very fine, cabbage or onions should be parboiled 5 minutes, drain carefully. Put all the vegetables together, cover with 1 qt. of water and simmer until tender, then add the stock, the seasoning, and allow it to simmer about 10 minutes. Serve without straining.

TOMATO SOUP.

1 pt. of canned or stewed tomatoes. 1/2 tsp. salt. 1 tsp. sugar. 1 tbsp. butter. 2 whole cloves or 1/2 bay leaf. 1 pt. of stock. 1/2 ssp. pepper. 1 tbsp. minced onion. 1 tbsp. flour or cornstarch. A speck of cayenne may be added if desired.

Put the tomato and stock in a saucepan and set on the fire. Cook the vegetables in the butter for 15 minutes; then press out the butter and put the vegetables in the soup. Into the butter remaining in the pan put the flour and stir until smooth, then add to the soup. Allow all to simmer for 20 minutes; strain and serve.

SPLIT PEA SOUP.

1 pt. of split peas. 1-1/2 qt. of boiling water. 1 qt. of stock. Salt and pepper to taste.

Wash the peas in cold water (rejecting those which float) and soak them over night. In the morning drain the water off and cover them again with 1 qt. of the boiling water. Boil until tender, about 1-1/2 hour. Now add the stock and 1 pt. of the boiling water. Press the whole through a sieve; wash the soup kettle, return the soup, boil up once, add salt and pepper and serve with croutons. Dried pea soup may be made in exactly the same manner, using 1 pt. of dried peas instead of the split ones.

ONION SOUP.

1 large Spanish onion. 1 qt. stock. 1 tbsp. flour. 2 tbsps. butter. Salt and pepper to taste.

Peel and chop the onion. Put the butter in a frying-pan, add the onion, and stir until a nice brown. Put the stock on to boil. Skim the onions out of the butter and add them to the stock. Stir 1 tbsp. of flour into the remaining butter, thin with a little of the stock, put all together, and simmer for 20 minutes. Add salt and pepper, and it is ready to serve.

MACARONI SOUP.

1 qt. clear soup. 1 tsp. salt. 5 sticks macaroni.

Break the macaroni into small pieces and throw it into 1 quart of boiling water containing the tsp. of salt. Let it boil uncovered 25 minutes. Drain off the water and add the macaroni to the hot stock, cover and cook slowly for 10 or 15 minutes. A little more seasoning may be added if desired.

OYSTER SOUP.

1 pt. oysters. 1/2 pt. cold water. 1/4 tsp. pepper. Salt to taste. 1 pt. milk. 2 (l.) tbsps. flour. 2 tbsps. butter.

Put a strainer over a bowl and turn the oysters into it. Pour the water over the oysters and stir with a spoon until all the liquid has passed through the strainer. Reserve 1/2 cup of the milk, pouring the remainder into the double boiler, set it on the fire. Put the oyster liquor in a stew-pan, and heat slowly. Mix the cold milk with the flour, and stirring into the boiling milk; cook for 10 minutes. When the oyster liquor boils, skim it. When the flour and milk have cooked for 10 minutes, add the oysters, butter, salt, pepper and oyster liquor. Cook until the oysters curl on the edge and are plump. Serve at once.

BEAN SOUP (WITHOUT STOCK).

1 qt. dried white beans. 1 large tbsp. butter. 2 qts. water. Salt and pepper to taste.

Wash the beans, cover them with water, and soak over night. Next morning drain, put them on to boil with 2 quarts of fresh cold water. As soon as they come to a boil drain this water off and throw it away. Cover again with 2 quarts of fresh boiling water, add 1 ssp. of soda, and boil until soft. Press the beans through a sieve, return to the kettle, and if too thick add enough boiling water to make the soup about the consistency of cream. Add the salt, pepper and butter, and serve. (Minced onion, carrot, or celery fried in a little butter or dripping, and added to this soup before straining, improves the flavor.)

BOUILLON.

2 lbs. lean beef. 1 small onion. A sprig of parsley. 1 qt. cold water. 1 stalk celery, or 1/2 tsp. celery seed. 1 bay leaf.

Remove all the fat and chop the meat very fine. Put it into the soup kettle with the water, bay leaf, parsley, onion and celery. Cover the kettle closely and place it in the back part of the range for 2 hours. Then move it over and let it come to a boil; skim at the first boil. Move back and simmer gently for 4 hours. Strain, return to the kettle, add salt and pepper. Beat the white of one egg with 1/2 cup of cold water until thoroughly mixed. Wash the egg shell, mash it and add to the white. Now add the white, shell and water to the boiling bouillon; let it boil hard for 10 minutes, then throw in 1/2 cup of cold water and boil 5 minutes longer. Take the kettle off the fire, strain through a flannel bag, add salt to taste, and color with caramel. (See recipe for caramel.) This is an excellent preparation for invalids.

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FISH.

Fish is an invaluable article of food. It provides variety in diet, and while less stimulating than meat, is usually more easily digested. Fish should be perfectly fresh and thoroughly cooked. The most wholesome as well as the most palatable methods for cooking fish are broiling and baking. The flesh of fresh fish is firm and will not retain the impress of the finger if pressed into it. The eyes should be bright and glassy, the gills red and full of blood. Fish should be cleaned as soon as possible and thoroughly wiped with a cloth wet in salt water, and should be kept in a cool place. Do not put it near other food such as milk, butter, etc., as they will absorb the odor.

BROILED FISH.

Rub a double broiler well with a piece of suet before putting in the fish. Lay the fish flat so that the flesh side will be exposed on one side of the broiler and the skin on the other. Broil carefully, as the skin side burns very quickly. A fish weighing 3 lbs. will take about 25 or 30 minutes to broil. When cooked sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve very hot.

BAKED FISH.

1 cup cracker or bread crumbs. 1 ssp. salt. 1 tsp. chopped onion. 1 tsp. chopped parsley. 1 ssp. pepper. 1/4 cup melted butter or dripping.

Clean, wipe and dry the fish, rub with salt; fill with stuffing and sew or tie carefully. Rub all over with butter (or dripping), salt and pepper, dredge with flour, put it into a hot oven; baste when the flour is brown, and often afterwards. Remove carefully from the pan and place upon a hot platter.

SCALLOPED FISH.

Pick over carefully any remnants of cold boiled or baked fish, put into a shallow dish in alternate layers with bread crumbs and cream sauce. Cover with crumbs and bake till brown.

SALT FISH BALLS.

1 cup salt fish. 1 tsp. butter. 1/4 ssp. pepper. 1 pint potatoes. 1 egg, well beaten. More salt if needed.

Wash the fish, pick in pieces and free from bones. Pare the potatoes and cut in quarters. Put the potatoes and fish in a stew-pan and cover with boiling water. Boil until the potatoes are tender. Drain off all the water; mash and beat the fish and potatoes till very light. Add the butter and pepper, and when slightly cooled add the egg. Lift in a tbsp. and drop into smoking hot fat 1 minute, drain on brown paper; they may be formed into balls and browned in a very hot oven.

* * * * *

MEAT.

(See Analysis, Chap. V.)

As meat is composed of several substances, fibrine, albumen, gelatin, fat and the juices, it is necessary to understand the various methods of cooking in order to secure the best results. Meat has its season as well as many other foods. Pork is better in autumn and winter; veal in the spring and summer; fowl in autumn and winter; lamb in the summer and autumn; mutton and beef may be used any time. Meat should not be allowed to remain in the paper in which it comes from market, as it absorbs the juices and injures the flavor. Wipe all over with a clean wet cloth. Examine carefully, remove any tainted or unclean portions and keep in a clean, cool place until required. Good beef should be a bright red color, well mixed with fat, and a layer of fat on the outside; the suet should be dry and crumble easily. (See meat diagrams for different cuts.) Mutton should have an abundance of clear, white fat, the flesh fine grained and a bright red color. The fat of veal should be clear and white, the lean pink, and should always be thoroughly cooked. Pork is more indigestible when fresh than when cured, as in bacon and ham. Fresh pork should be firm, the fat white, the lean a pale red.

ROAST OF BEEF.

Wipe, trim, and tie or skewer into shape the cut for roasting. If there be a large piece of the flank, cut it off and use for soups or stews. If you wish to roast it, turn it underneath and fasten with a skewer. Lay the meat on a rack in a pan, and dredge all over with flour. Put on the top of a roast 2 or 3 tbsps. of dripping or pieces of the fat; put it in a very hot oven at first. After the outside has become seared, check off the heat and allow to cook slowly, basting frequently. (See time table for baking.)

BROILED STEAK.

Trim the steak free from all suet (save all trimmings for stews or the stock pot). Put the meat plate to warm, grease the broiler with a little of the fat. See that the fire is clear. Put the steak on the hot broiler and place it over the fire, turning every 10 seconds. It will take about 8 minutes if the steak is 1 inch thick. When done, place it on the hot plate, dredge it with salt and pepper; turn over and season the other side. Serve immediately.

PAN-BROILED STEAK.

When the fire is not suitable for broiling, heat the frying pan until smoking hot; trim the steak as for broiling, place firmly on the hot pan, turn frequently as in broiling, with a broad knife or pancake turner; never insert a fork, as it allows the juice to escape. It will cook in 10 minutes. Season, and serve the same as broiled steak. If a gravy is desired, fry a little of the suet and trimmings in the pan—after the steak has been removed—until brown, lift out the meat or suet, add 1 tbsp. of flour, stir until brown, add pepper and salt to taste, then add 1 teacup of boiling water. Cook for 2 or 3 minutes and strain over the steak.

HAMBURG STEAK.

1 lb. of steak from the upper side of the round, or any piece of lean beef free from gristle; chop very fine, add 1 tbsp. of onion juice (or finely minced onion), 1/2 tsp. salt, 1/2 ssp. black pepper, mix well together; dip the hands in cold water, take 2 tbsps. of the mixture and form with the hands into small round cakes. Have the frying pan very hot, put in 2 tbsps. of dripping; when hot, put in the steaks, brown on both sides—or they may be pan-broiled. Place them on a hot dish, add a tbsp. of flour to the fat remaining in the pan, mix until smooth and brown; add a cupful of boiling water, stir until it boils, add pepper and salt to taste, and pour over the steak.

BEEF STEW WITH DUMPLINGS.

2 lbs. of lean beef (cheaper cuts). Cut into pieces about 1 inch square, dredge with flour. Put 2 tbsps. of dripping into a frying pan; as soon as it is very hot put in the meat and shake or stir until nicely browned. Skim out the meat and put it in a saucepan. Add 1 tbsp. of flour to the dripping remaining in the pan, mix and add 1 quart of boiling water; stir over the fire until it boils, then strain it over the meat; add one small onion, pepper and salt to taste. Cover the saucepan closely and let it simmer for 2 hours. Make the dumplings by sifting 1 pint of flour, to which has been added 2 tsps. baking powder. Add 1/4 tsp. salt and enough milk to make a soft dough. Lift the dough in spoonfuls, placing them over the meat, cover quickly and let boil 10 minutes. Do not uncover the saucepan while the dumplings are cooking or they will fall immediately. Be careful not to allow the stew to burn while the dumplings are cooking.

POT ROAST.

Trim off the rough parts of a brisket of beef or any of the cheaper cuts. Place it in a kettle over a good fire; brown on one side, then turn and brown on the other; add 1 pint of boiling water, cover closely and simmer, allowing 20 minutes to every pound. Add pepper and salt when the meat is nearly done.

BRAISED BEEF.

From 4 to 6 lbs. of beef from the lower part of the round or rump. Trim and rub well with salt, pepper and flour. Chop 2 small onions and fry until light brown in pork fat or dripping; skim them out and put them into the pan in which the meat is to be braised, then brown the meat all over, adding more fat if needed (this may be done in a very hot oven). Put the meat into the pan, on skewers to keep it from sticking, with the onions around it. Add 1 qt. of boiling water, cover closely, putting a brick or heavy weight on the cover to keep it down, and cook in a moderate oven 4 hours, basting occasionally. Turn once and add more water as it evaporates, so as to have 1 pt. left for gravy. When tender take up the meat, remove the fat, add more salt and pepper, and if liked, a little lemon juice or tomato may be added. Thicken with 2 tbsps. of flour wet in a little cold water. Cook 10 minutes and pour the gravy over the meat. Any tough meat may be cooked in this way.

HASH.

Take any pieces left of a cold roast, steaks or stews, chop very fine; take 1 tbsp. butter or dripping, 1 tbsp. of flour, stir together in a hot frying pan, when brown add 1 cup boiling water; add 1 tbsp. chopped onion, pepper and salt to taste, let simmer for 10 minutes, then add the meat, stir until heated thoroughly and serve on toast.

CORNED BEEF OR SAUSAGE HASH.

1 pt. hashed corn beef or sausage. 1 tsp. salt. 1 tbsp. butter or dripping. 1 pt. of hashed potatoes. 1/4 tsp. pepper. 1/2 cup of milk. (Omit the milk if sausage is used).

Mix the potato and meat, season with the pepper and salt, add the milk and stir lightly. Put the butter or dripping into a hot frying pan, when melted put in the hash, spread it lightly and evenly, but do not stir it. Cover the pan and set where the hash will cook slowly for 10 or 15 minutes. Move over to a hotter part of the stove and let it remain until a rich, brown crust has formed on the bottom. Fold over and serve on a hot dish.

MUTTON—BOILED LEG OF MUTTON.

Wipe the leg with a damp towel. Dust a cloth with flour and wrap the leg up with it. Put it into a kettle of boiling water and simmer gently 20 minutes to every pound; add salt when the leg is nearly done. When cooked remove the cloth carefully, garnish with parsley and serve with caper sauce. Save the liquor in which it was boiled for broth, stews, etc.

IRISH STEW.

3 lbs. of the neck of mutton. 4 good sized onions. 4 potatoes cut into dice. 2 qts. of water. Salt and pepper to taste.

Cut the meat into small pieces, cover with the water, which should be boiling, add the onions sliced, and simmer gently for 3 hours. About 1/2 hour before the meat is done add the potatoes, season with pepper and salt, and serve.

TO BAKE OR ROAST A QUARTER OF LAMB.

Wipe the meat with a damp cloth, place in a baking pan, dredge with pepper, put 1 tsp. of salt in the pan, add just enough water to keep the pan from burning until enough of its own fat has fried out to use for basting. Baste at least every 10 minutes; allow 15 minutes to every pound in a very hot oven. Serve with mint sauce.

LAMB CHOPS

Are broiled or pan-broiled the same as beefsteak.

VEAL—VEAL CUTLETS.

Have the cutlets about 1/4 of an inch thick, dredge with salt, pepper and flour. Put a tbsp. of dripping in a frying pan, and when very hot put in the cutlets; when brown on one side turn and brown on the other, take out and place on a hot dish. Add a tbsp. of flour to the fat remaining in the pan, mix and stir until brown; add a cupful of boiling water, pepper and salt to taste, stir until it boils, pour over the cutlets, and serve.

STEWED KNUCKLE OF VEAL.

Wipe the knuckle well with a damp cloth. Cut it into pieces. Put into a kettle with 2 quarts of boiling water, add 1 onion chopped, 1/4 lb. of chopped ham, and 1 bay leaf, pepper and salt to taste. Cover and stew slowly for 2-1/2 hours (a half cup of rice may be added to this stew).

JELLIED VEAL.

1 knuckle of veal. 1 blade of mace. 12 whole cloves. 1/2 cup of vinegar. 1 onion. 1 bay leaf. 6 pepper corns. Salt and pepper to taste.

Wipe the knuckle and cut it into pieces. Put into a kettle with 2 quarts of cold water; bring slowly to simmering point; skim and simmer gently for 2 hours; then add the onion, mace, bay leaf, cloves, pepper corns, and simmer 1 hour longer. Take out the knuckle, carefully remove the bones and put the meat into a mould or square pan. Boil the liquor until reduced to 1 quart, add the vinegar, pepper and salt to taste, strain and pour over the meat. Stand away until cold, when it may be turned out and garnished with parsley and lemon.

FILLET OF VEAL (STUFFED).

1 cup of bread crumbs. 1 tsp. of summer savory. 1 ssp. of pepper. 1/2 cup of chopped salt pork or ham. 1 tsp. of salt.

Have the bone removed from the shoulder, fill the space from which the bone was taken with the stuffing, fasten the meat together with a skewer to prevent the stuffing from coming out, put into the pan with 3 or 4 tbsps. of dripping, allowing 20 minutes to each pound, basting frequently in a moderately hot oven.

PORK AND BEANS.

Soak the beans over night in cold water. In the morning wash them well in a colander, put them on to boil in cold water, at the first boil drain this water off and cover with fresh boiling water. Score the rind of the pork and put it in with the beans. Simmer gently until you can blow off the skin of the beans. To do this, take 3 or 4 beans in your hand, blow hard on them, and if the skin cracks they are done. Take out the pork and drain. Put the beans into an earthen pot or granite kettle with a cover; almost bury the pork in the centre of the beans. Add 1 tsp. of salt to 1 pint of the water in which the beans were boiled, pour this into the pot, sprinkle with pepper, pour over the beans 1 large spoonful of molasses, put on the lid, bake in a moderate oven for 6 or 8 hours. If baked in an ordinary iron baking pan they must be covered with another on which has been placed a weight, carefully watched, and baked only 3 hours.

ROAST SPARE RIBS.

Put the spare ribs in a baking pan, sprinkle lightly with pepper, add 1/2 tsp. of salt to 1/2 cup of boiling water, and pour in the bottom of the pan. Roast 20 minutes to every lb., basting often. When done, make a gravy and serve as for any other roast. (Spare ribs may be stuffed, the ribs cracked crosswise, the stuffing placed in the centre, the two ends folded over, roast as above.)

BROILED HAM.

Have the ham cut into slices about 1/4 inch thick, trim off the rind and rusty edge. Broil the same as steak or chops. (This is a very nice way to serve ham with poached eggs.)

Ham may be pan-broiled as directed in former recipes.

FRIED BACON.

Cut into very thin slices, put into a very hot frying pan, and cook until clear and crisp.

SAUSAGE.

Prick the skins with a sharp fork so as to prevent bursting; place them in a frying pan over a moderate fire and fry in their own fat until a nice brown. After taking the sausage from the pan, add 1 tbsp. of flour to the fat in the pan, add 1 cup of boiling water, stir until it boils, pour over the sausage and serve.

LIVER AND BACON.

Have the bacon cut in thin slices and keep it cold until the time to cook it. Have the liver cut into slices about 1/3 of an inch thick. If it be calf or sheep's liver, wash it in cold water and let it drain; but if it be beef liver, after washing it, cover with boiling water and let it stand for 5 minutes, then drain it. Cook the bacon as directed, then take it up. Lay the slices of liver in the hot fat, cook them for 8 or 10 minutes, turning often; season with pepper and salt. Arrange the liver on a warm platter, make a gravy as directed in other recipes, pour over the liver, placing the bacon round the outside. (Always cook bacon quickly and liver slowly.)

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POULTRY.

The best chickens have soft yellow feet, short thick legs, smooth, moist skin and plump breast; the cartilage on the end of the breast bone is soft and pliable. Pin feathers always indicate a young bird and long hairs an older one. All poultry should be dressed as soon as killed. Cut off the head, and if the fowl is to be roasted, slip the skin back from the neck and cut the neck off close to the body, leaving skin enough to fold over on the back. Remove the windpipe, pull the crop away from the skin on the neck and breast, and cut off close to the opening in the body. Cut through the skin about 2 inches below the leg joint, bend the leg at the cut by pressing it on the edge of the table and break off the bone. Then pull out the tendon. If care be taken to cut only through the skin, these cords may be pulled out easily, one at a time, with the fingers; or by putting the foot of the fowl against the casing of a door, then shut the door tightly and pull on the leg. The drum stick of a roast chicken or turkey is greatly improved by removing the tendons. Cut out the oil bag in the tail, make an incision near the vent, insert two fingers, keeping the fingers up close to the breast bone until you can reach in beyond the liver and heart, and loosen on either side down toward the back. Draw everything out carefully. See that the kidneys and lungs are not left in, and be very careful not to break any of the intestines. When the fowl has been cleaned carefully it will not require much washing. Rinse out the inside quickly and wipe dry. In stuffing and trussing a fowl, place the fowl in a bowl and put the stuffing in at the neck, fill out the breast until plump. Then draw the neck skin together at the ends and sew it over on the back. Put the remainder of the stuffing into the body at the other opening and sew with coarse thread or fine twine. Draw the thighs up close to the body and tie the legs over the tail firmly with twine. Put a long skewer through the thigh into the body and out through the opposite thigh, turn the tips of the wings under the back of the fowl, put a long skewer through from one wing to the other. Wind a string from the tail to the skewer in the thigh, then up to the one in the wing across the back to the other wing, then down to the opposite side and tie firmly round the tail. If you have no skewers, the fowl may be kept in shape by tying carefully with twine. Clean all the giblets, cut away all that looks green near the gall bladder, open the gizzard and remove the inner lining without breaking. Put the gizzard, heart, liver, and the piece of neck which has been cut off, into cold water, wash carefully, put in a saucepan, cover with cold water, place on the back of the stove and simmer till tender. Use the liquid for making the gravy; the meat may be chopped and used for giblet soup.

ROAST CHICKEN (OR TURKEY).

Singe carefully, remove the pin feathers, draw as directed above. Wipe, stuff, sew and tie or skewer into shape, dredge with flour, cover with plenty of dripping; roast in a hot oven. When the flour is brown check the heat, baste frequently with the fat, and when nearly cooked dredge with pepper and salt and again with flour. Bake a 4 lb. chicken 1-1/2 hour, or until the joints separate easily. If browning too fast, cover with paper. (Roast chicken is considered to be more wholesome and to have a better flavor when cooked without stuffing.)

FRICASSEE OF CHICKEN.

The first attempt of an inexperienced cook in the preparation of a chicken should be a fricassee, as it will provide an opportunity for her to study the anatomy of a chicken while cutting it in pieces, and also show her the position of the intestines, so that when she attempts to draw a fowl she will know just where to place her hand so as to remove them without breaking.

To prepare a chicken for a fricassee, clean and singe. Cut the chicken at the joints in pieces for serving. Place in a kettle, cover with boiling water, add 2 level tsps. of salt, a ssp. of pepper (some like a small piece of salt pork). Simmer until tender, reducing the water to a pint or less, lift the chicken, melt 1 tbsp. of butter in a saucepan, add 2 tbsps. of flour, and when well mixed pour on slowly the chicken liquor. Add more salt if needed, pepper, 1/2 tsp. of celery salt, 1 tsp. of lemon juice (an egg may be used by beating and pouring the sauce slowly on the egg, stirring well before adding it to the chicken). Pour this gravy over the chicken and serve; dumplings may be added if desired, or it may be placed in a deep dish, covered with pastry and baked for chicken pie.

(The chicken may be browned in a little hot fat as in braising meat, and cooked in the same way.)

BROILED CHICKEN.

Singe and split a young chicken down the back. Break the joints, clean and wipe with a wet cloth, sprinkle with pepper and salt, rub well with butter or dripping, place in a double grid-iron and broil 20 minutes over a clear fire. The chicken may be covered with fine bread crumbs or dredged with flour, allowing a plentiful supply of butter or dripping, and baked in a hot oven 1/2 hour.

MEAT SOUFFLE.

Make 1 cup of white sauce and season with chopped parsley and onion juice. Stir 1 cup of chopped meat (chicken, tongue, veal or lamb) into the sauce. When hot, add the beaten yolks of two eggs; cook 1 minute and set away to cool. When cool, stir in the whites, beat very stiff. Bake in a buttered dish about twenty minutes and serve immediately.

CROQUETTES.

These may be made with any kind of cooked meat, fish, rice, potatoes, etc., or from a mixture of several ingredients, when mixed with a thick white sauce, as follows: 1 pint hot milk, 2 tbsps. butter or beef dripping, 6 (l.) tbsps. flour, or 4 (l.) tbsps. cornstarch, 1/2 tsp. salt, 1/2 ssp. white pepper, 1/2 tsp. celery salt, a speck of cayenne. Melt the butter or dripping in a saucepan, when hot add the dry cornstarch or flour. Stir till well mixed. Add 1/3 of the hot milk and stir as it boils and thickens, add the remainder of the hot milk gradually. The sauce should be very thick. Add the seasoning, and mix it while hot with the meat or fish. It is improved by adding a beaten egg just before the sauce is taken from the fire. When cold, shape into rolls or like a pear, roll lightly in beaten egg, then in bread crumbs, and fry in deep hot fat. Drain on coarse brown paper. If the mixture be too soft to handle easily stir in enough fine cracker or soft bread crumbs to stiffen it, but never flour.

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HOT PUDDINGS.

APPLE PUDDING (BAKED).

1 pint flour. 1/4 cup butter or dripping. 1 cup milk. 1 tsp. cream of tartar. 3 tbsps. sugar. 1/2 tsp. salt. 1 egg. 1/2 tsp. soda sifted into the flour. 6 tart apples.

Mix the dry ingredients, beat the egg and mix it with the milk, stir this into the dry mixture. Core, pare and cut the apples into quarters (if large into eighths). Place in the bottom of a pudding dish, sprinkle over them the sugar, a little nutmeg or cinnamon may be added if desired. Put the mixture over this, lifting the apples with a fork or spoon so as to let the mixture penetrate to the bottom of the pan. Bake in a moderately hot oven about 30 minutes. Serve with lemon sauce or thin custard.

COTTAGE PUDDING.

1/2 pint sifted flour. 1/2 cup sugar. 1/4 tsp. salt. 1 egg. 1/2 cup milk. 1 tbsp. butter. 2 tsps. baking powder (level).

Beat the butter and sugar to a cream, add the unbeaten egg, beat vigorously for 3 or 4 minutes, add the salt, then the flour, with which the baking powder should be mixed. Beat for a few seconds, then turn the batter into a small, buttered pudding dish, bake about 25 minutes in a moderate oven; serve with lemon sauce.

LEMON PUDDING.

4 level tbsps. granulated sugar. 1 ssp. of salt. 2 tbsps. milk. The juice and grated rind of a small lemon. 6 (l.) tsps. cornstarch. 1 tbsp. butter. 1/2 cup water. 1 egg.

Mix the cornstarch with 3 tbsps. cold water; put the remainder of the water in the saucepan and set on to boil. Stir into this the mixed cornstarch and cook until clear. Take from the fire, add the salt and lemon, reserving 1/2 tsp. of the lemon. Beat the butter to a cream, gradually beat into it the sugar, the yolk of the egg, lastly the milk. Stir this mixture into the cooked ingredients, and bake in a moderate oven for 20 minutes. Beat the white of the egg to a stiff froth, beat into it 1 tbsp. of powdered sugar and the 1/2 tsp. of lemon juice. Spread this over the hot pudding and leave in the oven until slightly browned. (This pudding is better served very cold.)

BREAD PUDDING.

1 pint stale bread crumbs. 1 quart of sugar. 1 ssp. of nutmeg or cinnamon. 2 eggs. 1/2 tsp. salt.

Soak the bread crumbs for 1 hour in 1 quart of milk. Beat the eggs, add the sugar and seasoning, stir all into the bread crumbs, bake 1 hour in a buttered pudding dish. (Raisins or currants may be added if desired.)

Another method for making bread pudding is to butter thin slices of stale bread, spread with a little jam or sprinkle a few currants (well washed) over each layer, lay them in a pudding dish, pour over a quart of milk, to which has been added 3 well beaten eggs, 1/2 cup sugar. Bake until the custard thickens. This pudding may be served either hot or cold.

STEAMED APPLE PUDDING.

3 pints pared and quartered apples. 1/2 pint flour. 1/2 cup sugar. 1 tbsp. butter. 1/4 of a grated nutmeg. 1/2 cup milk. 1/2 pint water. 1/4 tsp. salt. 2 (l.) tsps. baking powder.

Put the apples, water, sugar, and nutmeg into a porcelain or granite saucepan and set on the fire. When the apples begin to boil, set back where they will cook gently. Mix the flour, salt and baking powder together. Rub the butter into this dry mixture, wet with the milk, stir quickly into a soft dough. Press or roll the dough lightly into a round piece about the size of the top of the saucepan. Lay this on the apples; put on a close cover and continue cooking gently for 30 minutes. The crust may be lifted to a plate for a moment, the apples turned into a pudding dish, then placing the crust over the top. To be served with lemon or nutmeg sauce.

BOILED RICE PUDDING.

1/2 cup rice. 1/2 tsp. salt. 1 pint milk. 1/2 cup raisins.

Wash the rice well. Put it on the fire in 1 pint of cold water and let it cook for 10 minutes. Drain off the water, add the salt and milk; then cook in the double boiler for 2 hours, add the raisins when about half cooked. Do not stir the rice while it is cooking.

BROWN BETTY.

Pare, core and slice 6 or 7 tart apples. Put a layer of stale bread crumbs in the bottom of the baking dish, then a layer of the apples, another layer of bread crumbs and apples, and so on until all are used, having the last layer crumbs. Add 1/2 cup of water to 1/2 cup molasses, stir in 2 tbsps. of brown sugar; pour it over the crumbs and bake in a moderate oven for 1 hour.

APPLE SNOW.

6 apples. Juice of 1 lemon. 1 cup white sugar. Whites of 6 eggs.

Pare, core and steam the apples until tender, then press them through a sieve and put aside to cool; when cold add the sugar and lemon juice. Beat the whites of the eggs to a very stiff froth, add the apples to them by spoonfuls, beating all the while. Heap in a glass dish and serve immediately. (This is a very delicate and wholesome pudding for an invalid.)

SCALLOPED APPLES.

Made the same as Brown Betty, omitting the molasses, adding water and a little lemon juice instead.

SUET PUDDING.

1 cup suet. 1 cup molasses. 3 cups flour. 1/2 tsp. salt. 1 cup raisins. 1 cup milk. 1 tsp. cinnamon. 2 tsps. baking powder.

Chop the suet very fine. Stone the raisins. Add the molasses to the suet, then the milk: mix well and add the salt, flour and cinnamon. Beat vigorously for 2 or 3 minutes, then add the raisins. Rub in the flour, to which has been added the baking powder; mix thoroughly, turn into a buttered mould, steam for 3 hours.

TAPIOCA PUDDING.

1 cup tapioca. 4 eggs. 1/2 cup sugar. 1 quart milk. 1/4 tsp. salt. 1 tsp. vanilla.

Wash the tapioca carefully, then add it to the milk and soak 2 hours. Beat the eggs and sugar together, add the salt, stir into the tapioca and milk, and bake in a moderate oven at least 3/4 of an hour. Serve hot or cold.

CHOCOLATE PUDDING.

1 egg. 2 tbsps. cornstarch. 3 tbsps. sugar. 1/2 tsp. vanilla. 1 pint milk. 1 tbsp. boiling water. 1/2 tsp. salt. 1 oz. shaved chocolate.

Reserve 1/2 cup milk, put the remainder on the fire in a double boiler. Mix the cold milk with the cornstarch and salt. Beat the egg well and add to the cornstarch mixture. Stir this into the boiling milk and stir well. Put the chocolate, sugar and boiling water into a small frying pan or saucepan, and set over a hot fire. Stir until the mixture is smooth and glossy; beat this into the pudding and cook for 2 minutes longer. Take from the fire and add the vanilla. Dip a mould into cold water and turn the pudding into it. Set away to cool. When cold and stiff, turn out on a flat dish and surround with whipped cream; or serve with cream and sugar or a soft custard.

SNOW PUDDING.

1/4 box gelatine. 1 cup boiling water. 1 cup sugar. 2 tbsps. cold water. Juice of one lemon. Whites of 2 eggs.

Soak the gelatine in cold water for 2 hours. Pour upon this the boiling water and stir until the gelatine is dissolved; then add the sugar and lemon juice, stirring until the sugar is dissolved. Set the bowl in a pan of cold water, or broken ice. Stir frequently; when it begins to thicken, stir in the beaten whites of the eggs, pour into a mould and set away until firm. Serve with boiled custard.

CREAM PIE.

Make a plain cup cake, and bake it in a shallow cake pan. When cooked and cold, split it carefully. Put 1 pint of milk on to boil in a farina boiler. Beat the yolks of 3 eggs and 1/2 cup of sugar together until light, then add the well-beaten whites, and stir them into the boiling milk; stir over the fire for about 1 minute, then take from the fire, add 1 tsp. of vanilla, and stand away to cool. When cold, and ready to serve, put a thick layer of this sauce between the layers of cake, pour the remaining sauce around the pie, and serve immediately.

BLANC MANGE.

1 pint milk. 2 tbsps. sugar. 4 (l.) tbsps. cornstarch. 1/2 ssp. salt.

Put the milk on to boil. Moisten the cornstarch with a little cold milk, then add it to the boiling milk, and stir until it thickens; let it cook slowly for 5 minutes; add the sugar and salt, take from the fire, pour into a mould and set away to harden.

STRAWBERRY SHORTCAKE.

1 pint flour. 1/2 tsp. salt. 3 (l.) tsps. baking powder. 1 oz. butter. 1 cup milk.

Mix the salt, flour and butter together. Sift, then add the baking powder and sift again. Add the liquid gradually, mixing and cutting with a knife until the dough is light and spongy; turn it out on a well floured board, pat into a flat cake and roll gently till 1/2 an inch thick. Bake in a spider or pie plate in a rather hot oven. Split and spread with sweetened berries and serve either hot or cold.

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PUDDING SAUCES.

PLAIN SAUCE.

1 cup water. 1 tsp. butter. 1/2 ssp. grated nutmeg. 3 tbsps. sugar. 2 tsps. flour or cornstarch.

Melt the butter and flour together, stir in the hot water, add the sugar and flavoring, cook until smooth and clear.

MOLASSES SAUCE.

1/2 cup molasses. 1/2 cup water or 1/2 tbsp. vinegar. 2 (l.) tsps. flour. 1/2 cup sugar. 1 tbsp. lemon juice. 1 tbsp. butter. 1/2 ssp. salt.

Mix the flour and sugar together. Pour the boiling water upon it. Add the molasses and place on the range. Simmer for 10 minutes. Add the other ingredients; boil up once and serve. (Omit lemon if vinegar is used.)

CREAM SAUCE.

1 egg. 1 tsp. butter. 1 tsp. cornstarch. 1/2 cup powdered sugar. 1 tsp. vanilla. 1 cup boiling milk.

Beat the white of the egg to a stiff froth; then gradually beat into it the powdered sugar and cornstarch. Next add the yolk of the egg and beat well. Pour upon this the cupful of boiling milk and place on the fire. Stir until it boils, then add the butter and vanilla.

LEMON SAUCE.

1 tbsp. cornstarch. 1/2 cup sugar. 1 pint boiling water. 1 tbsp. butter. 1 egg. 1 lemon.

Beat the egg, add the cornstarch and sugar, stir them well together; add the boiling water gradually and stir over the fire until thick; add the butter, juice and grated rind of one lemon. Serve hot.

VANILLA SAUCE.

1 cup milk. 2 (l.) tbsps. sugar. 2 eggs. 1/2 tsp. vanilla.

Put the milk on to boil, beat the yolks and sugar till very light; add them to the boiling milk; stir over the fire until creamy. Have the whites beaten, pour over them the boiling mixture; beat thoroughly and serve at once.

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CAKE.

There are practically two kinds of cake, that made with butter, and cake made without butter. When these two methods are understood, cake making becomes easy. A few simple rules must govern all cake making.

1st. Regulate the heat. Cakes without butter require a quick oven; with butter, a moderate oven. 2nd. Beat whites and yolks separately. 3rd. Beat butter and sugar to a cream. 4th. Add the whites last. 5th. Currants should be cleaned, washed and dried and floured (to which flour some of the baking powder should be added). 6th. Add the milk or water gradually. 7th. Sift the flour before measuring. 8th. 2 level tsps. of baking powder are equal to 1/2 tsp. soda and 1 tsp. cream of tartar. 9th. When looking at a cake while baking, do it quickly and without jarring the stove. 10th. To find out if it is baked, run a broom straw through the centre, if no dough adheres the cake is done. 11th. If browning too quickly, cover with brown paper and reduce the heat gradually. This is usually necessary in baking fruit cake. 12th. Mix cake in an earthen bowl, never in tin. 13th. Soda, cream of tartar, and baking powder should be crushed and sifted with the flour. Always attend to the fire before beginning to make cake. Coarse granulated sugar makes a coarse, heavy cake. If cake browns before rising the oven is too hot. When it rises in the centre and cracks open it is too stiff with flour. It should rise first round the edge, then in the middle and remain level.

GINGERBREAD.

1 cup molasses. 2 tbsps. butter. 1 tsp. ginger. 1 pint flour. 1/2 cup sour milk. 1 tsp. soda. 1 egg.

Put the molasses and butter in a pan and set on the stove. When the mixture boils up add the soda and ginger, and take from the fire immediately. Add the milk, the well-beaten egg and the flour, beat well. Bake in a shallow cake pan in a rather quick oven for 20 minutes.

SPICE CAKE.

1/4 cup butter. 1/2 cup molasses. 1/2 cup sour milk. 1/2 ssp. salt. 1/2 tsp. soda. The juice and rind of 1/2 lemon. 1/2 cup sugar. 2-1/2 cups flour. 1/2 tsp. ginger. 1 tsp. cinnamon. 1/4 nutmeg, grated. 1 egg.

Beat the butter to a cream. Gradually beat into it the sugar, then the spice and lemon, next the molasses. Now dissolve the soda in one tbsp. cold water and stir it into the sour milk; add this, and the egg well beaten, to the other ingredients. Lastly add the flour, and beat briskly for 1/2 minute. Pour into a well buttered pan and bake in a moderate oven for about 50 minutes.

SPONGE CAKE.

3 eggs. 2/3 cup flour. 2/3 cup pulverized sugar. The grated rind and juice of 1/2 lemon.

Beat the yolks of the eggs and sugar until very light, now add the juice and rind of the lemon and half the flour; beat the whites to a very stiff froth, add the remainder of the flour and the whites alternately, stirring lightly, pour into a greased cake pan. Bake in a quick oven from 25 to 30 minutes.

ROLL JELLY CAKE.

2 eggs. 1 cup sugar. 1-1/2 cup flour. 1/2 tsp. salt. 1 cup sweet milk. 3 (l.) tsps. baking powder.

Beat the eggs separately till very light, then beat them together, add the sugar, then the milk gradually, then the flour in which the salt and baking powder have been mixed. Spread very thin on long shallow pans. Spread with jelly while warm and roll up.

SEED CAKE.

1 cup butter. 1 cup milk. 2 tsps. caraway seeds. 3 tsps. baking powder. 1-1/2 cup sugar. 3 eggs. 3 cups flour.

Cream the butter, add the sugar gradually, then the yolks of the eggs, then the seeds; sift the baking powder with the flour; add the flour and milk alternately a little at a time, lastly the whites which have been beaten stiff and dry; bake from 40 to 50 minutes.

COOKIES (PLAIN).

1/2 cup butter. 1/4 cup milk. 2 even tsps. baking powder. 1 cup sugar. 1 egg. Flour to roll out thin.

Cream the butter, add the sugar, milk, egg beaten lightly, and the baking powder mixed with two cups of flour, then enough more flour to roll out. Roll a little at a time. Cut out. Bake about 10 minutes.

LAYER CAKE.

1/2 cup butter. 1 cup sugar. 2-1/2 cups flour. 3 eggs. 2/3 cup milk. 4 (l.) tsps. baking powder.

Beat the butter and sugar to a cream, then add the yolks of the eggs gradually; then the flour and milk alternately (sifting the baking powder with the flour), add the well-beaten whites last. Bake in 3 tins in a moderate oven about 15 minutes. (Flavoring has been omitted in this recipe as the cake is more delicate by allowing the filling to provide the flavor.)

PLAIN FRUIT CAKE.

3 eggs. 1 cup milk. 1 oz. candied lemon. 4 (l.) tsps. baking powder. 2/3 cup butter. 3 (l.) cups flour. 1 cup raisins.

Mix as directed in preceding recipe, only mixing the fruit with the flour and baking powder.

ICING.

Whites of 2 eggs. 1/2 lb. powdered sugar. 1 tsp. of lemon juice.

Have the material very cold. Break the eggs carefully, beat the whites until frothy (not stiff); sift the sugar in gradually, beating all the while; add the lemon juice and continue beating until fine and white, and stiff enough to stand alone. Keep in a cool place, when using, spread with a knife dipped in cold water. If used for ornamenting press through a tube. It may be divided and different colorings added.

BOILED ICING.

1 cup granulated sugar. 1/3 cup boiling water. 1/4 tsp. cream of tartar. White of 1 egg.

Boil the sugar and water together until it hangs from the spoon. Beat the egg to a stiff froth, add the cream of tartar, then pour on the syrup, beating all the while. Beat until cold and thick.

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PASTRY.

Pastry, unless light and tender, should never be eaten; even then it should be avoided by people with poor digestion. There are so many food preparations superior to pastry in both nutritive value and cost of time and material, that it will be wise to give it a very secondary place in the training of a culinary artist. However, as it is still a popular fancy with many, we may as well make the best of it. Butter is more wholesome in pastry than lard, although the latter makes a light crust. In order to secure satisfactory results in pastry making—especially puff pastry—three things should be observed: (1) have all the materials cold; (2) use as little liquid as possible; (3) handle lightly and quickly. Pastry should be very cold when it is put into the oven. Have the oven very hot.

PUFF PASTE.

1 lb. flour. 1 lb. butter. Enough ice water to make into a very stiff dough.

If the butter is salty, wash it as follows: Scald a large bowl, then fill with cold water; wash the hands in hot soapy water, then rinse them in cold water, as this will prevent the butter from sticking to the hands. Turn the cold water out of the bowl; fill it with ice water, put the butter into it and work with the hands until soft and elastic. Drain the water from the butter and place on ice until hard. Sift the flour, put 1/4 of the butter into the flour, cut with a knife or chopping knife until thoroughly mixed; then gradually add ice water until it is moist enough to hold together, turn out on the board or marble slab. Press into shape, roll lightly until about 1/4 inch thick; cut the remainder of the butter into small pieces, and lay over this layer of dough. Fold carefully over and over, roll three times. If the dough should get soft and sticky, place it in a tin or cold plate on the ice to harden between the rollings. Always fold pastry so as to keep it in layers—even when cutting off the roll keep the layers one above the other, not turning them on their sides. For patties, or especially flaky pastry, roll five or six times, provided it is not allowed to get soft. Pastry should be rolled about as thin as the edge of a plate for tarts, etc., and about 1/3 inch thick for a cover for chicken pie.

PLAIN PASTRY.

2 cups flour. 1 cup butter or lard.

Add the butter to the flour, chop with a knife, add enough ice water to make a firm dough. Roll out, fold, set on ice or in a cold place for at least 1/2 hour before baking.

PASTE FOR MEAT PIES, ETC.

1 pint flour. 1/2 tsp. soda. 1 tsp. cream tartar Or 2 level tsps. baking powder. 1 egg. 1/2 tsp. salt. 1 tsp. cream tartar. 1/4 cup butter or dripping. 1 cup milk.

Mix as for biscuit or shortcake.

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MISCELLANEOUS.

SHEPHERD'S PIE.

Three cups of any kind of cold meat, 6 or 7 potatoes, 1 small onion, 1 cupful of boiling milk, salt, pepper, 1-1/2 cup gravy or stock thickened with 1 tbsp. of flour. Cut the meat in small pieces and put in a deep earthen dish. Grate the onion into the gravy and pour over the meat. Pare, boil, and mash the potatoes. Add the salt, pepper and milk, and 1 tbsp. of butter or dripping. Cover the meat with this and bake in a moderate oven until nicely brown.

BEEF STEW.

Take the bones and hard tough parts left from a roast of beef. Remove all the meat from the bones and cut it into small pieces. Cut about 1/4 of a lb. of the fat into pieces; put it in the stew-pan to fry. When it begins to brown put in 1/2 carrot, a piece of turnip and 2 small onions cut fine. Stir over the fire for 10 minutes. Take out the fat and vegetables and put the bones in the bottom of the kettle. Add the meat and cooked vegetables, but not the fat. Dredge with salt and pepper, and flour, using at least 1/2 cup flour. Add 3 pints of water and simmer gently 1 hour; pare and cut in slices 6 potatoes, simmer until the potatoes are well cooked. Draw forward where it will boil more rapidly, have dough ready for dumplings (see recipe for dumplings). Put the dumplings on the top of the stew; cover closely and cook just 10 minutes.

STUFFED TOMATOES.

Take 6 large smooth tomatoes, 1/2 tsp. salt, 1/2 ssp. pepper, 1/2 tbsp. butter, 1/2 tbsp. sugar, 1/2 tsp. onion juice, 1/2 cupful bread crumbs. Arrange the tomatoes in a baking pan. Cut a thin slice from the smooth end of each. With a small spoon scoop out as much of the pulp and juice as possible without injuring the shape. Mix the pulp and juice with the other ingredients and fill the tomatoes with this mixture. Put on the tops and bake slowly 3/4 of an hour. Lift the tomatoes carefully and place on a hot flat dish, garnish with parsley, and serve.