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When the lesson is finished, the boxes should be put away in systematic order, and all scraps should be carefully picked up from the desks and the floor.
LESSON II: HEMMING TOWELS
Turning and basting hems. Hemming towels of crash, sacking, or other material, for use in washing and drying dishes at home or in school.
SUBJECT-MATTER
Basting is used to hold two pieces of material together until a permanent stitch can be put in. It is done by taking long stitches (one-fourth inch) from right to left and parallel to the edges that are to be basted together. In starting, the thread is fastened with a knot; when completed, it is fastened by taking two or three stitches one over the other.
PRELIMINARY PLAN
The teacher should have the necessary materials on hand or should see that they are supplied by the pupils. The articles needed will include material for the towels, white thread for basting and hemming, and gauges for measuring.
The teacher should also have a large square of unbleached cotton or canvas, 18 by 18 inches, and a large darning-needle and coloured worsted thread, to use for demonstration purposes. The canvas should be fastened to the black-board, where the class can see it easily.
METHOD OF WORK
As soon as the class is called, the supplies are at hand, and the hands are in a proper condition, the teacher should demonstrate the basting-stitch, with a large needle and thread, on the square of canvas that has been fastened on the wall. Materials for work should be passed. Each pupil should straighten the ends of her towel by drawing a thread. Then she should turn and baste a hem three eighths of an inch in depth.
At the close of the lesson, the pupils should fold their work carefully and put it neatly in their boxes.
LESSON III: HEMMING TOWELS—Continued
The overhanding stitch and the hemming stitch.
SUBJECT-MATTER
Overhanding (also called overseaming or top sewing).—The edges to be overhanded are held between the first finger and the thumb of the left hand, with the edge parallel to the first finger. The needle is inserted just below and perpendicular to the edge. The needle is pointed straight toward the worker. The stitches proceed from right to left, each stitch being taken a little to the left of the preceding stitch. The stitches should all be straight on the right side, but they will slant a little on the wrong side. They should not be deep. It may be desirable to use this overhanding stitch at the ends of hems, to hold the edges of the material together. The overhanding stitch is also used for seams, for patching, and for sewing on lace.
The overhanding of narrow hems is not always necessary, but the ends may be made stronger thereby, and the stitch is a valuable one for the pupils to know.
Hemming.—The hemming-stitch is placed on the inside of the hem. The end of the basted hem is laid over the first and under the second finger of the left hand, with the folded edge outside and the material toward the worker. It is held in place with the thumb. The stitch is begun at the end of the hem. The fastening of the thread is concealed by slipping it underneath the hem in the inside fold of the material. The needle is pointed over the left shoulder, a small stitch is taken by inserting the needle through the material just below the hem, then through the folded edge. This is repeated, making the next stitch nearer the worker and moving the goods away from the worker as necessary. Uniformity of slant, size, and spacing of the stitches is important.
PRELIMINARY PLAN
Before this lesson is given, all the pupils should report to the teacher, having both ends of their towels basted, so that they will all be ready to proceed at once with the new stitches.
METHOD OF WORK
The teacher should begin by demonstrating on the large square of canvas with the large needle and heavy thread the stitches to be used. After overhanding the end of the hem, the hemming-stitch should follow with the same thread. The pupils will probably not be able to finish the hemming in this first lesson, so provision should be made for additional time. This can be required as an outside assignment, if the pupils have mastered the method during the class period. The teacher may also be able to give them some supervision while she is looking after other classes.
LESSON IV: BAGS
A school bag. Bag (made of material obtainable) to hold sewing materials. Measuring and straightening the material for the bag. Basting the seams.
SUBJECT-MATTER
The basting-stitch will be used as a review of work in the second lesson.
PRELIMINARY PLAN
Some time before the lesson, the teacher should discuss with the pupils the kind of material they will be able to provide for their bags and, if the material has to be purchased, she should suggest something that is suitable, washable, and inexpensive. The bag should cost only a few cents. The dimensions of the finished bag should be about 12 by 18 inches.
METHOD OF WORK
The pupils should get out the materials they have brought and determine upon the size and shape of their bags. It will not be necessary to make them uniform. The teacher should help the pupils to use their material to the best advantage. It should be straightened, pulled in place, and measured carefully. When the bags have been cut out, the sides should be basted.
LESSON V: BAGS—Continued
Sewing up the seams with a running-stitch and a back-stitch.
SUBJECT-MATTER
Running is done by passing the needle in and out of the material at regular intervals. Small, even stitches and spaces should follow consecutively on both sides of the material. The stitches should be much shorter than those used for basting, the length being determined largely by the kind of cloth used.
When running is combined with a back-stitch, two or more running-stitches and one back-stitch are taken alternately. The back-stitch is a stitch taken backward on the upper side of the cloth, the needle being put back each time into the end of the last stitch and brought out the same distance beyond the last stitch.
PRELIMINARY PLAN
The teacher should be sure that all the pupils are ready to report, having the sides of their bags basted ready for stitching.
METHOD OF WORK
The teacher should first demonstrate the running-stitch with the back-stitch, and the pupils should begin to sew the sides of the bag, using this stitch. They should commence sewing three quarters of an inch from the top of the bag, so that there will be a space left for slits in the hem through which to run the cord.[A] The seams will doubtless have to be finished outside of the class hour, and may be assigned for completion before the next lesson.
[A] The draw-string, or cord, is to be run through the hem from the inside of the bag, and it will be necessary to leave three quarters of an inch of space at the ends of the seams, to provide slits as outlets for the cord.
LESSON VI: BAGS—Continued
Overcasting the seams and turning the hem at the top of the bag.
SUBJECT-MATTER
Overcasting is done by taking loose stitches over the raw edge of the cloth, to keep it from ravelling or fraying.
PRELIMINARY PLAN
The teacher should be sure that all the pupils are ready to report, having the sides of their bags neatly sewed with the running-stitch.
METHOD OF WORK
The teacher should demonstrate the method of overcasting and explain its use. She should have the pupils trim the edges of their seams neatly and overcast them carefully. After the seams have been overcast, she should discuss the depth of the hem that the pupils expect to use and the method of turning and basting it. They should then measure, turn, pin, and baste the hems, using the gauge for determining the depth of the hem. If the bags are deep enough to admit of a heading at the top, a deep hem (about 2-1/2 inches) can be made, and a running-stitch put in one-half inch (or more) above the edge of the hem, to provide a casing, or space, for the cord. If it is necessary to take a narrow hem, the hem itself can be made to answer as space for the cord; in this case the hem should be made about one-half inch deep.
LESSON VII: BAGS—Continued
Hemming the top of the bag and putting in a running-stitch to provide a space for the cord.
SUBJECT-MATTER
Review of the hemming-stitch and the running-stitch.
PRELIMINARY PLAN
The pupils, having the hems basted, should report to the teacher.
METHOD OF WORK
The teacher should review briefly the method of making the hemming-stitch and the running-stitch, asking the pupils to describe these stitches and to demonstrate them on the large square of canvas before the class. The basted hems should then be sewed with the hemming-stitch.
After the hem is finished, the pupils should run a basting thread around the bag, to mark the location of the running-stitch, which is to be half an inch above the hem. They should measure for this carefully. If there is not time to do all the hemming in the class period, the hemming-stitch and the running-stitch (which is to provide space for the draw-string) should be assigned for outside work, and each pupil should bring in her finished hem at a designated time before the next class period.
LESSON VIII: BAGS—Continued
Preparing a cord or other draw-string for the bag. Putting a double draw-string in the bag, so that it can easily be drawn up. Use of the bodkin.
SUBJECT-MATTER
To make a cord, it is necessary to take more than four times as much cotton as the final length of the cord will require, for some of the length will be taken up in the twisting of the cord. It will be easier for two to work together in making a cord. The cord should be doubled, the two lengths twisted together firmly, and the ends brought together again and held in one hand, while the middle is taken in the other hand, and the lengths are allowed to twist firmly together. The ends should be tied, and the cord run into the bag with a bodkin or tape-needle. If one cord is run in from one side and another is run in from the other side, each cord running all the way around, the bag can be drawn up easily.
In place of the cord, narrow tape may be used. Take two pieces of tape, each piece being twice as long as the width of the bag plus two inches. Run one tape in from one side and a second from the other side, each tape running all the way around. Join the tape ends in the following manner:
1. Turn a narrow fold on one end of the tape to the wrong side, and on the other end of the tape to the right side.
2. Slip one fold under the other and hem down the folded edges.
PRELIMINARY PLAN
If the pupils are not able to supply cords for their own bags, the teacher should have a sufficient supply of cord on hand. She should be sure the bags are in readiness for the cord before the class period.
METHOD OF WORK
The teacher should begin the lesson by describing the method of making the cord, estimating the amount necessary, and demonstrating the process with the assistance of one of the pupils. The pupils should be numbered, so that they may work in groups of two. After they have completed the cord and run it into the bag, methods of finishing the ends neatly should be suggested to them.
LESSON IX: DARNING STOCKINGS
Use of a darning-ball or gourd as a substitute for a ball. Talk on the care of the feet and the care of the stockings.
SUBJECT-MATTER
This lesson will involve running and weaving. Darning is used to fill in a hole with thread, so as to supply the part that has been destroyed or to strengthen a place which shows signs of weakness. A darning-ball, a gourd, or a firm piece of cardboard should be placed under the hole. The darn should extend one quarter of an inch beyond the edge of the material, beginning with fine stitches in the material, making rows running close together in one direction, then crossing these threads with rows that run at a right angle to them. Care should be taken alternately to pick up and drop the edge of the material around the hole, so that no raw edges will be visible, and to weave evenly in and out of the material and the cross threads.
PRELIMINARY PLAN
Each pupil should provide a pair of stockings with a few small holes and a gourd or ball of some sort that she can use as a darning ball.
METHOD OF WORK
When the class meets, the teacher should discuss briefly the care of the feet and of the stockings, and demonstrate the method of darning, on a large piece of coarse material, with heavy yarn and a needle. If the pupils finish one darn during the lesson period, more darning should be assigned for practice out of class.
LESSON X: PATCHING[A]
Hemmed patches on cotton garments. Talk on the care of the clothes.
SUBJECT-MATTER
This lesson will involve measuring, trimming, basting, and hemming. A patch is a piece of cloth sewed on to a garment to restore the worn part. The material used for the patch should be as nearly like the original fabric in colour and quality as possible. In placing the patch, the condition of the material about the hole must be taken into consideration, as well as the size of the hole. The worn parts around the hole should be removed, and the hole cut square or oblong. The patch should be, on all four sides, an inch larger than the trimmed hole. The corners of the hole should be cut back diagonally, so that the edges may be turned under. The patch should be matched and pinned to the wrong side of the garment, leaving the edges to project evenly on all four sides. The edges of the material around the hole should be turned in and basted to the patch. The edges of the patch should be turned in so that they extend, when finished, one-half inch from the edge of the hole. The patch and the cloth should be basted together and hemmed.
[A] Used when special problem comes up.
PRELIMINARY PLAN
The lesson on patching should be given at any time in the course when it can be applied to an immediate need. If a pupil tears her dress while playing at school, or if she wears a torn apron, the teacher can announce a patching lesson for the next sewing class, and request each pupil to bring a torn garment and the material for the patch from home. It may be desirable to use two or three periods for this lesson.
METHOD OF WORK
The teacher should demonstrate the process of patching on a large piece of cotton. The pupils should practise placing a patch on a piece of paper with a hole in it. Each step should be assigned in succession—examination of the article to determine its condition, calculation of the size and preparation of the patch, placing the patch, trimming the article around the hole, basting the patch and material together, and hemming the patch.
LESSON XI: CUTTING OUT APRONS OR UNDERGARMENTS
SUBJECT-MATTER
When cutting out an apron, the length of the skirt should first be measured, and to this measure 6 inches should be added for the hem and the seams. One length of the material corresponding to this length should be cut. This should be folded lengthwise through the middle. Three quarters of an inch should be measured on this fold, and the material cut from the end of the selvage to this point, in order to slope the front of the apron. When the waist measure is taken, 3 inches should be added to it (1 for the lap and 1 at each end, for finishing). This makes a strong piece at each end for the button and button-hole. Two pieces of this length and 2-1/2 inches wide should be cut lengthwise of the material for the belt. A measure should be made from the middle of the back of the waist line, over the shoulder, to a point 5 inches to the right to the centre front and on the waist line. Two pieces of the length of this measure and 4-1/2 inches wide should be cut lengthwise of the material for the shoulder straps. A piece 9 by 12 inches should be cut for the bib, the longer distance lengthwise of the material. These measurements allow one quarter of an inch for seams.
PRELIMINARY PLAN
Before the lesson the teacher should see if arrangements can be made to secure the use of one or two sewing-machines, so that the pupils may sew all the long seams by machine.
At a previous lesson she should discuss the kinds of material suitable for the aprons. The pupils should consider whether their aprons shall be white or coloured, and whether they shall be of muslin, cambric, or gingham. Each pupil will need from 1-1/2 to 2 yards of material, according to her size. The taller ones will need 2 yards.
There should be on hand a sufficient number of tape-measures, pins, and scissors, so that the pupils may proceed with the cutting of their aprons without unnecessary delay.
The apron to be made is to have a skirt, with a bib and shoulder straps, in order to be a protection to the dress, the skirt, and the waist.[A]
[A] If the pupils are very inexperienced and find the sewing difficult, it may be advisable to omit the bib and straps and to make the simple full-skirted apron. If a machine is not at hand to use for the long seams, the limited time may make the simpler apron necessary. This will give more time for the various steps. Lessons XIV and XV may then be omitted, Lesson XVI made more simple, and less outside work may be required.
METHOD OF WORK
As soon as the class meets, the pupils should take the measurements for their aprons. One measurement should be assigned at a time, and the reason for each measurement should be given. The pupils should have explicit directions as to the measurements, as they are apt to become confused if the directions are not clear. They should work carefully, so that the material does not become crumpled or soiled and, at the conclusion of the lesson, they should fold it carefully and put it away neatly. All threads and scraps of material should be carefully picked off the floor and the desks, and the room left in order.
LESSON XII: APRONS OR UNDERGARMENTS—Continued
Basting the hem for hemming on the machine or by hand. Uneven basting.
SUBJECT-MATTER
An uneven basting forms the better guide for stitching. In uneven basting, the spaces are made about three times as long as the stitches. The stitch should be about one eighth of an inch and the space three eighths of an inch.
PRELIMINARY PLAN
In addition to the apron material which has been cut out in the previous lesson, each pupil should provide her own spool of thread (number sixty white thread will probably answer for all the work), a piece of cardboard 5 inches wide for a gauge, and pins to use in fastening the hem.
METHOD OF WORK
As soon as the class meets, the pupils should prepare a 5-inch gauge, to guide them in turning the hems of the skirts of their aprons. They should make a half-inch notch in the measure for the first turn in the material. A half-inch edge should be turned up from the bottom of the skirt, then a 5-inch hem should be turned, pinned, and basted carefully with uneven basting. The gauge should be used for both measurements.
LESSON XIII: APRONS OR UNDERGARMENTS—Continued
Gathering the skirt and stitching to the belt.
SUBJECT-MATTER
In gathering, a stitch much like running is employed. Small stitches are taken up on the needle, with spaces twice as great between them. The top of the skirt should be divided into halves, and each half gathered with a long thread, fine stitches one quarter of an inch from the edge being used. The middle of the belt and the middle of the top of the skirt of the apron should be determined upon. The belt should be pinned to the wrong side of the apron at these points, and the fulness drawn up to fit (approximately one half of the waist measure). The skirt and the belt should be pinned, basted, and sewn together.
PRELIMINARY PLAN
If the hems have been completed in the skirts, the pupils are ready to gather the skirts and attach them to the belt. It will be well to have a supply of pins on hand, to use in fastening the skirt and belt together.
METHOD OF WORK
The teacher should first demonstrate the method of gathering and assign that portion of the lesson. When the skirts have all been gathered, she should show the pupils how to measure, pin, and baste the skirt to the belt.
LESSON XIV: APRONS OR UNDERGARMENTS—Continued
Making the bib.
SUBJECT-MATTER
A 2-inch hem should be turned across one short end of the bib. This should be basted and hemmed. The bottom of the bib should be gathered, the method employed for the top of the skirt being used, and sufficient thread being left to adjust the gathers easily.
PRELIMINARY PLAN
If the pupils have completed the skirts and attached them to the belts, they are ready to make the bibs. They should be provided with a 2-inch marker, for use in making the hems in the top of the bibs.
METHOD OF WORK
The teacher should guide the pupils carefully in the making of the bibs, reviewing their knowledge of basting, hemming, and gathering.
LESSON XV: APRONS OR UNDERGARMENTS—Continued
Making the straps.
SUBJECT-MATTER
One end of one of the straps should be placed at the bottom of the bib. The edge of the strap should be pinned, basted, and sewed to the right side of the bib with a running-stitch. The other long edge of the strap should then be turned in one quarter of an inch and the side turned in one inch. The strap should then be folded through the middle for its entire length and the free side basted to the wrong side of the bib and hemmed. The remaining edges of the strap should be overhanded together. The other strap should be sewn to the other side of the bib in the same way.
PRELIMINARY PLAN
The bibs should have been completed before the pupils report for this lesson.
METHOD OF WORK
As soon as the pupils report for the lesson, the teacher should explain the method of attaching the straps to the bib and tell them how to finish the former. As they proceed with their work, she should supervise them carefully and assign the unfinished portion to be done out of class.
LESSON XVI: APRONS OR UNDERGARMENTS—Continued
Putting the bib and the skirt on the belt.
SUBJECT-MATTER
The middle of the bottom of the bib should be determined, and pinned to the middle of the upper edge of the belt, to which the skirt has already been attached. The belt should be fastened to the wrong side of the bib. The gathering string of the bib should be drawn up, leaving 2 inches of fulness on each side of the middle. The bib should be pinned, basted, and sewn to the belt. The remaining long edges of the belt should be turned in one quarter of an inch, and the ends one inch. The edges of the other belt piece should be turned in in the same way, and should be pinned over the belt to which the skirt and the bib have been attached (with all the edges turned in), and basted carefully, to keep the edges even. The skirt and the bib should be hemmed to this upper belt, and all the remaining edges should be overhanded.
PRELIMINARY PLAN
The bib and the straps of the apron should be completed before the pupils report for this lesson.
METHOD OF WORK
The teacher should guide the pupils carefully in the various steps necessary in fastening the bib to the belt and in completing the belt. If the hemming and overhanding is not completed during the class hour, they may be assigned as home work.
LESSON XVII: METHODS OF FASTENING GARMENTS
Sewing buttons on the aprons, corset-cover, or other garment.
SUBJECT-MATTER
This lesson should teach neatness in dress, through a consideration of the best methods of fastening garments. The position of the button is measured by drawing the right end of the band one inch over the left end. The place for the button should be marked with a pin on the left end of the band. A double thread is fastened on the right side of the band, drawn through one hole of the button, and back through the other, and then taken through the band close to the first stitch. A pin should be inserted on top of the button under the first stitch, left there until the button is firmly fastened in place, and then removed. Before the thread is fastened, it should be wrapped two or three times around the threads holding the button, between the button and the cloth, then fastened neatly on the wrong side with a few small stitches one on top of another.
PRELIMINARY PLAN
Each pupil should come to the class with her apron as nearly completed as possible, and with three buttons to sew on it, for fastening the belt and straps.
METHOD OF WORK
The teacher should discuss the best methods of fastening garments and should demonstrate the method of sewing on buttons. The pupils should sew one button on the left end of the apron band in the middle of the width about 1 inch from the end, and another button 4 inches from each end of the band, to hold the shoulder straps.
LESSON XVIII: METHODS OF FASTENING GARMENTS—Continued
Button-holes on practice piece and on apron.
SUBJECT-MATTER
Directions for making the button-hole.—Measure carefully the position for the button-hole, lengthwise of the band, so that the end will come one quarter of an inch from the edge of the garment. Mark the length of the button-hole on the material by putting in two lines of running-stitches at the ends. To cut the button-hole, insert the point of the scissors at the point marked by the running-stitches nearest the edge of the garment, and cut carefully along the thread of the material to the row of stitches marking the length at the other end.
To make the button-hole, use a thread of sufficient length to do both the overcasting and the button-holing. Beginning at the lower right corner, overcast the raw edges with stitches one sixteenth of an inch deep. Do not overcast around the ends of the hole. As soon as the overcasting is done, proceed with the button-holing without breaking the thread. Hold the button-hole horizontally over the first finger of the left hand and work from right to left. Insert the point of the needle through the button-hole (at the back end), bringing the point through, toward you, four or five threads below the edge of the button-hole. Bring the doubled thread from the eye of the needle from right to left under and around the point of the needle, draw the needle through, and pull the thread firmly, so that the purl is on the edge. At the end of the button-hole, near the end of the band, make a fan, by placing from five to seven stitches. The other end of the button-hole should be finished with a bar made by taking three stitches across the end of the button-hole, then button-hole over the bar, taking in the cloth underneath and pulling the purl toward the slit. The thread should be fastened carefully on the under side of the button-hole.
PRELIMINARY PLAN
For this lesson it is desirable to have small pieces of cotton on hand, to use as practice pieces for the button-holes.
METHOD OF WORK
The teacher should demonstrate the making of a button-hole, illustrating each step of the process on a large piece of canvas. The pupils should sew two small strips of cotton together and cut a button-hole one quarter of an inch from the edge, and lengthwise of the material, to work for practice. When the button-hole has been sufficiently perfected on the practice piece, the pupils should make three in the apron—one in the right end of the band and one in the end of each shoulder strap.
LESSON XIX: A PADDED HOLDER FOR HANDLING HOT DISHES—BINDING
SUBJECT-MATTER
A holder 6 inches square will be satisfactory for handling hot dishes. It can be made of quilted padding bound with tape, or of two thicknesses of outing flannel covered with percale or denim and bound with tape or braid. If made of the outing flannel and covered, it should be quilted, by stitching from the middle of one side to the middle of the opposite side in both directions, in order to hold the outing flannel and the outside covering together. The tape that is to be used for the binding should be folded through the middle lengthwise; then, a beginning being made at one corner of the padding, the edge should be basted, half on one side and half on the other. Right-angled corners should be formed. When basted all around, the tape should be sewn on each side with a hemming-stitch.
If the holder is to be suspended from the apron band, a tape of from 27 inches to 36 inches in length should be attached to one corner. The raw edge at one end of the tape should be turned in. The end should be so placed that it overlaps the corner of the holder about half an inch and it should be basted to the holder. The tape should then be secured firmly to the holder, hemmed down on one edge, across the bottom, and up the other edge. The other end of the tape should be finished with a 2-inch loop. The raw edge should be folded over, the tape turned 2 inches down for the loop, and basted in place. This should be hemmed across the end. One quarter of an inch up from the end, the double thickness of tape should be back-stitched together, and the edges of the tape should be overhanded from there to the hemmed end.
PRELIMINARY PLAN
Each pupil should provide sufficient denim, percale, huckaback, or other washable material to cover the two sides of a holder 7 inches square, and enough outing or canton flannel for a double lining. About 1-1/2 yards of straight tape one-half inch wide will be needed for the binding and for suspending the holder from the apron.
METHOD OF WORK
The pupils should first carefully measure and turn the material for the covering of the holder and then prepare the lining, basting it all together. They should then put in the running-stitch and finish with the binding. If it is not possible to complete the holder in one period, a second lesson period should be provided, or arrangements may be made to have supervised work done outside of the lesson hours.
LESSON XX: A CAP TO WEAR WITH THE COOKING APRON
SUBJECT-MATTER
The simplest cap to make will be the circular one. A pattern should be made by drawing with a pencil and string on a piece of wrapping-paper a circle 21 inches in diameter. The material for the cap should be cut carefully around the circle and finished with a narrow hem. A tape to hold the draw-string should be placed 1-1/4 inches inside the edge of the hem. A small piece of cardboard cut about one-half inch wide should be used for measuring the position of the tape. Bias strips three quarters of an inch wide should be prepared for the tape, or a commercial tape three eighths of an inch wide may be purchased. The outer edge of the tape should be basted first and the edges joined; then the inner edges should be basted, the edge being kept smooth. Both edges should be neatly sewn with the hemming-stitch by hand or on the machine. An elastic should be inserted in the band, carefully fitted to the head, and the ends fastened neatly.
PRELIMINARY PLAN
This lesson will give a good opportunity to make a cap that will answer for a dust cap or serve as a part of the cooking uniform. If such a cap does not seem desirable and the former lesson has not been completed, the cap may be omitted and the work on the holder continued.
METHOD OF WORK
The pupils should first make the pattern for the cap and then cut out their material. The hem should be basted and stitched with the hemming-stitch. The bias strip should be basted on and sewn with a running-stitch. It will probably not be possible for the pupils to complete the cap in one class period; but, if the material has been cut out and the work started, they may be able to complete it at some other time. The stitches are not new, and the work will serve as an excellent test of the skill they have acquired in the course.
HOUSEHOLD SCIENCE EQUIPMENT
The introduction of Household Science into rural schools has been hindered by the prevalent impression that the subject requires equipment similar to that in the Household Science centres of towns and cities, where provision is made for the instruction of twenty-four pupils at one time and for from ten to fifteen different classes each week. Owing to the expense and the lack of accommodation, it is not possible to install such equipment in rural schools. For this and other reasons it has been concluded that the subject is beyond the possibilities of the rural school. That this is not the case is shown by the fact that many rural schools in the United States, and some in Saskatchewan, as well as a number in our own Province, are teaching the subject successfully, with equipment specially designed to meet existing conditions.
The accommodations and equipment required may be classified as follows:
1. Working tables 2. Cupboards and cabinets for storing the utensils 3. Stoves 4. Cooking and serving utensils
1. The provision for working tables is conditioned by the space available, and every effort must be made to economize this space. The equipment may be placed in the basement or in a small ante-room. In one school in the Province very successful work is being done in a large corridor. When a new school-house is being erected, provision should be made by building a small work-room off the class-room. The possibilities of a small, portable building, in close proximity to the school, should not be overlooked.
Where the school is provided with a large table, this may be made of service. When used as a working table it should be covered with a sheet of white oil-cloth. When used as a dining-table a white table-cloth may be substituted for the oil-cloth. If the school does not possess a table, two or three boards may be placed on trestles, if the space at the front or the back of the room permits, and these may be stored away when not required. A table with folding legs, such as is shown in Figures 22 and 23, may also be used. The top of the cabinet containing the utensils or an ordinary kitchen table closed in as a cupboard underneath, may be made to serve. Long boards, about eighteen inches wide, placed across the tops of six or eight desks, provide good accommodation. These should be blocked up level and should be provided with cleats at each end, in order to prevent movement. When not in use they may stand flat against the wall and occupy very little space. Separate boards, resting on a desk at each end, may also be placed across the aisles. Each of these will provide working space for one pupil. Tables which drop down flat when not in use may be fixed to the walls of the school-room. As schools vary in many respects, it is not possible to outline a plan which will suit all; but that plan should be chosen which will best meet the requirements of the particular school.
2. The cupboards and cabinets to contain the utensils may take various forms. A kitchen cabinet costing from twenty-five to thirty-five dollars may be obtained from a furniture store, or one may be made by a local carpenter. A large packing-case painted brown outside and white inside (for cleanliness) is satisfactorily used in some schools. If covered with oil-cloth, the top of this may be used as an additional table. A few shelves placed across a corner of the room and covered with a door or curtain may be used, or it may be possible to devote one shelf of the school cupboard to the storing of the utensils. It is desirable to have a combination cupboard and table, which will contain most of the equipment, including the stove. Figure 24 is a working drawing of such a cabinet, which may be made by a local carpenter or by the older boys of the school.
The directions for making this cabinet are as follows:
Obtain two boxes and cut or re-make them so that each is 30 inches high when standing on end, 12-1/4 inches across the front inside, and 18 inches from front to back. These will form the two end Sections, A and B. Inside the sides of these boxes nail 1 inch x 7/8 inch strips, to form the slides for the drawer. The slides come within 7/8 of an inch of the front edge. Rails may be nailed across the front. Guide pieces should be nailed to the slides, in order to keep the drawers straight. Divide Section A for one drawer and cupboard. The drawers may be made out of raisin boxes cut down to the required size. To the front of each drawer, nail a piece of beaver board or pine a little larger than the drawer front. Use any handles that may be conveniently obtained. Cut two pieces 4' 9-1/2" x 1-1/2" x 7/8". Space the Sections as shown, and nail these pieces firmly to the fronts of the larger boxes, A and B, top and bottom. Four end pieces 18" x 1-1/2" will be required. Fill in Section C, in this case, 2' 7-1/2", with the pieces from the box lids or with ordinary flooring. Make a door for the cupboard from similar material. The top is best made from good, clear, white pine. Screw battens across, and screw the whole firmly to the box top from the inside. If more table space is required, make a similar bench top, which can rest on top of the cabinet when not in use. When required, it may be placed over the desks. Steel or glass shoes or wooden skids or battens should be fixed under the cabinet, so that it can be pulled away from the stove and replaced easily. The dimensions given are for a two-flame-burner oil-stove which is 30 inches high, 31 inches across the front, and 16 inches from front to back. The middle Section, C, and the total height of the cabinet may be enlarged or reduced to fit other sizes of stoves.
The material required for, and the approximate cost of, such a cabinet, labour not included, are as follows:
2 boxes @ 25 $0.50 5 raisin boxes @ 5 .25 5 handles at 45c per doz. .20 1 cupboard latch .15 or 1 turn button .02 About 9 sq. ft. flooring .25 About 8 sq. ft. pine for top .50 Pieces for battens, etc. .25 Steel shoes .10
Figure 27 shows another type of equipment and the space it occupies in the class-room when not in use. The cupboard and the back of the cabinet contain the equipment necessary for teaching twelve pupils at one time and also for serving one hot dish at the noon lunch to twenty-four pupils. One drawer contains linen, etc., and the other, knives, forks, and spoons. The dimensions of the cupboard and the cabinet are shown in Figures 28 and 29, and the construction of each is such that it can be made easily by any carpenter.
Figure 30 shows the cupboard and drawers open and the method of storing the equipment. The shelves may be covered with white oil-cloth or brown paper, in order to obviate the necessity for frequent scrubbing. The cupboard may be fixed to the wall with mirror plates or small iron brackets, or it may be screwed through the back.
Figure 31 shows the back of the cabinet, with the three-flame-burner stove-oven, the one-flame-burner stove, and other utensils in place. The folding table, previously described, rests on the top of the cabinet. Figure 32 shows the back of the cabinet with the stove and oven removed. The method of storing utensils and the construction of the cabinet are clearly shown.
Figure 33 shows the three-flame-burner oil-stove with the shelf underneath containing three kettles and the one-flame-burner oil-stove.
Another type of equipment is shown in Figure 34. Each end of the top of this cabinet drops down when the cupboard doors are closed, space being thus economized. The top of the table may be covered with oil-cloth or zinc carefully tacked down on the edges.
The directions for making this cabinet are as follows:
MATERIALS REQUIRED
Lumber:
7 pieces 3/4" x 4" x 14' yellow pine ceiling 6 pieces 1" x 4" x 12' yellow pine flooring 1 piece 1" x 12" x 12' } 1 piece 1" x 8" x 12' } No. 1 common white pine 1 piece 1/2" x 6" x 14' } 4 white pine laths
Hardware:
7 pairs 1-1/2" x 3" butt hinges 3 cupboard catches 1 piece zinc (27" x 39") 2 pieces zinc (21" x 27") 1 drawer pull 1 lb. 8d finishing nails 1 lb. 6d finishing nails 1/4 lb. box 1" brads 1/4 lb. box 1-1/4" brads 1 box tacks 2 ft. stopper chain
STOCK BILL
+ + -+ -+ -+ Lumber Cut into Finished Dimensions Use the following pieces: + + -+ -+ -+ 1" x 8" x 12' 2 13-16" x 2" x 32-1/2" Top side rails 2 13-16" x 2" x 18-1/2" Top end rail 4 13-16" x 2" x 29-3/4" Frame posts 1 13-16" x 2" x 30-7/8" Bottom side rail 2 13-16" x 2" x 18-1/2" Bottom end rails 1 13-16" x 5" x 14-3/8" Drop door + - -+ -+ -+ -+ 2 pieces, 1" x 4" x Flooring 12' flooring 7 3/4" x 3-1/4" x 32-1/2" (bottom) + + -+ -+ -+ 5 pieces, 1" x 4" x Ceiling (ends 14' yellow pine and side) ceiling 24 1/4" x 3-1/4" x 31-1/4" + + -+ -+ -+ 1" x 12" x 12' 3 13-16" x 10-1/4" x 32-1/2" Shelf 1 13-16" x 8" x 32-1/2" Shelf 3 13-16" x 1-3/4" x 31-1/4 Casing 2 13-16" x 1-3/4" x 14-3/8" Casing 1 13-16" x 5" x 14-3/8" Drawer front + + -+ -+ -+ 2 pieces, 1" x 4" x Top 12' flooring 8 3/4" x 3-1/4" x 36" + + -+ -+ -+ 2 pieces, 1" x 4" x Doors 14' yellow pine ceiling 10 3/4" x 3-1/4" x 22-7/8" + + -+ -+ -+ 2 pieces, 1" x 4" x Swing tops 12' flooring 12 3/4" x 3-1/4" x 24" + + -+ -+ -+ 1/2" x 6" x 12' 2 7-16" x 5" x 19-5/8" Drawer slides 1 7-16" x 5" x 13-1/2" Drawer back 4 7-16" x 4-3/4" x 13-1/2" Drawer bottom + + -+ -+ -+ 1/2" x 6" x 12' 1 7-16" x 4-1/2" x 13-1/2" Partitions 3 7-16" x 4-1/2" x 10" Partitions + + -+ -+ -+
TOOLS
Rule Lead-pencil Saw Hammer Steel square Plane 1/2" Chisel and Screw-driver
DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING
I Cutting and Squaring Stock—
Cut the stock only as needed, in the following order, and square up according to the directions previously given.
1. Frame; rip the 1" x 8" x 12' piece for the frame material 2. Bottom 3. Ends and sides 4. Shelves 5. Top 6. Casing 7. Doors 8. Swing tops 9. Miscellaneous pieces
II Assembling—
Frame:
1. Check up the dimensions of the pieces squared up for the frame.
2. Lay out and cut the lap joints in the top side rails and frame posts, as shown in the drawing.
3. Nail the frame together.
4. Test the corners of the frame with a steel try-square and brace it by nailing, temporarily, several strips diagonally across the corners.
Bottom:
1. Cut seven pieces of flooring 32-1/2" long for the bottom and plane off the groove of one piece.
2. Turn the frame upside down and nail this piece with the smooth edge projecting 7/8" over the front side of the frame. Nail the rest of the flooring so that each piece matches tightly.
Ends:
1. For the back, cut eleven pieces of ceiling 31-1/4" long.
2. Plane off the groove edge of one piece of ceiling and nail it on the back of the frame even with the end. 3. Nail the rest of the ceiling on the back. Be sure that each joint matches tightly.
Shelves:
1. Make four strips (3/4" x 3/4" x 16-1/2") and nail two of them inside, across each end, 15" and 24" from the bottom. These strips hold the shelves.
2. From a 1" x 12" piece cut two pieces 32-1/2" long; fit and nail them in for the upper shelf.
3. Make the bottom shelf of two pieces, one 10-1/4" wide and the other 8" wide. When these boards are nailed in place, the shelf is narrow enough to allow the doors, with pockets on, to close.
4. Make two strips; one 13-16" x 1" x 16-1/2" and the other 13-16" x 1-3/4" x 20-1/2", and nail them to the top shelf for drawer guides.
Top:
1. Cut eight pieces of flooring 36" long for the top.
2. Plane off the groove of one piece and nail it on the top of the frame, so that the smooth edge and the ends project 1" over the front side and ends of the cabinet.
3. Nail the rest of the flooring on for the top, being sure that each joint matches tightly. The last piece must also project 1" over the back side.
Casing:
1. Nail the casing, which is 1-3/4" wide, on the front of the cabinet.
Doors:
1. Make each door 3/4" x 14-3/8" x 22-7/8" from five pieces of ceiling 22-7/8" long, held together by cleats at the top and bottom.
2. Fit each door carefully, then hang them with butt hinges. Fasten a cupboard catch on each door.
Drop Door:
1. Make the drop door 13-16" x 14-3/8" and hinge it with a pair of butt hinges. Put on the stopper chain and catch. Swing Tops:
The swing tops are each made from six pieces of flooring 24" long cleated together.
1. Plane off the groove edge of one piece and match them all together.
2. Make the cleats 3/4" x 2" x 15" and nail the top to them. (See the drawing for the position of the cleats.)
3. Rip off the tongue edge and plane it so that the top is exactly 18" wide.
4. Turn the cabinet upside down on the floor and fit the swing tops. Hang them with a pair of butt hinges opposite the ends of the cleats.
5. Make a T-brace with a nailed cross lap joint from two pieces, one being 13-16" x 2" x 14", the other 13-16" x 2" x 16-1/2". The long edge of the T and the leg must be bevelled 13-16" on one side. Fit and hang a T-brace with a pair of butt hinges on each side of the swing tops.
6. Make two brace cleats and fasten them to the ends of the cabinet, so that the swing tops are held level and even with the top of the cabinet.
Putting Zinc on the Top:
1. Unscrew the swing tops from the cabinet to put the zinc on.
2. Place the piece of zinc, 27" x 39", on top, extending 1-1/2" over the edges all around.
3. Hold the zinc firmly in place and make a square bend along the front edge with a hammer or mallet, bending the edge of the zinc up under the top.
4. Punch a straight row of holes 1" apart through the zinc and tack it on.
5. Bend the back edge, punch and tack in the same manner as the front edge, but be sure the zinc fits snugly on the top.
6. Bend the ends of the zinc the same as before, but be very careful to fold the corners neatly.
7. Put the zinc on the swing tops in the same manner.
8. Fasten the swing tops again to the top of the cabinet.
Drawer:
The drawer front, 13-16" x 5" x 14-3/8", with lap 3/8" x 1/2" cut out on the ends.
1. Nail the sides, 1/2" x 5" x 19-5/8", to the lap of the front and to the ends of the back.
2. Nail the bottom in between the sides 1/8" from the lower edge. This allows the drawer to slide on the edges of the sides.
3. Put the partitions in the drawer as called for by this plan.
The racks for covers and pie tins shown in the drawings are made from two pieces, 13-16" x 2" x 4", one piece 13-16" x 2" x 10-1/2" for the bottom, and two pieces of lath 12" long for the sides. These racks may be placed on the doors as shown, or may be changed to suit the equipment.
III Finishing—
1. Set all the nails and putty the holes.
2. Sandpaper the cabinet carefully.
3. Paint or stain and wax the outside of the cabinet, to harmonize with the surroundings where it is to be used.
4. Paint the inside with two coats of white enamel.
Before putting on the enamel, apply a coat of ordinary white-lead paint and allow it to dry thoroughly. If desired, the outside of the cabinet may be finished in white enamel, though this is somewhat more expensive than the paint or stain recommended above.
All the Household Science Cabinets shown have a two-fold purpose. In the first place, they furnish storage space for the utensils and working space for the pupils. In the second place, they offer a most interesting manual training project for a boys' club. The members can make any one of them, thus correlating their practical woodwork and the domestic science of the girls and, in this way, exhibiting the co-operative spirit of the home and the school.
3. In some cases it may be possible to use the school stove for cooking purposes. Some schools use natural gas for heating and, where this is the case, provision for cooking may readily be made. Other schools situated on a hydro-electric line, may, as has been done in one case, use electricity as a source of heat. At present, however, the majority of schools may find it best to use one of the many oil-stoves now on the market. One-, two-, or three-flame-burner stoves may be obtained for general use. The two-, or three-flame-burner stoves are recommended, as they are less likely to be overturned. The one-flame-burner stove, however, is often useful as an additional provision. A good grade of oil should be used, and the stove should be kept scrupulously clean, constant attention being paid to the condition of the wick. Any oil spilt on the stove when it is being filled should be carefully wiped off before lighting. If attention is paid to these details, the stove will burn without any perceptible odour.
4. The number of the utensils and the amount of equipment depend upon the community and the number of pupils to be considered. By careful planning few utensils are needed. They should be as good as the people of the neighbourhood can afford and, in general, should be of the same character as those used in the homes of the district. All the table-cloths, towels, dish-cloths, etc., required should be hemmed by the pupils. Articles for storing supplies may be bought or donated. Glass canisters with close lids are best, but as substitutes, fruit jars, jelly glasses, or tin cans will serve the purpose. It is an easy matter to secure an empty lard-bucket or a syrup-can for flour or meal, empty coffee-cans for sugar or starch, etc., and baking-powder or cocoa-tins for spices. Each should be plainly labelled.
Several typical lists of equipment in Household Science are given here. These may be modified to suit particular circumstances. Considerable expense may be saved if the pupils bring their own individual equipment—soup-bowl, cup and saucer, plate, spoon, knife, fork, and paper napkins. This plan is not advised unless it is absolutely necessary, but, if followed, an effort should be made to have the articles as uniform as possible.
The following equipment is that contained in the cabinet illustrated on page 152 and is sufficient for giving organized instruction to six pupils. If a noon lunch is provided, additional individual equipment will be required.
EQUIPMENT FOR RURAL SCHOOL HOUSEHOLD SCIENCE CABINET—NO. 1
1 Perfection blue-flame stove (two-flame) $15.00 1 Two-burner oven 4.50 1 Coal-oil can .50 1 Dish-pan 1.15 1 Tea-kettle 1.50 1 Large sauce-pan and cover .75 2 Medium sauce-pans and covers, 30c each .60 2 Small sauce-pans and covers, 25c each .50 2 Frying-pans, 20c ea. .40 2 Pudding bake-dishes, 50c ea. 1.00 2 Muffin pans (12 rings, each 30c) .60 1 Soap-dish .25 4 Small mixing bowls, 16c ea. .64 2 Pitchers, 55c ea. 1.10 3 Casseroles, 20c, 25c, 30c .75 6 Measuring cups, 90c ea. .60 6 Custard cups, 90c doz. .45 6 White plates, $1.45 doz. .73 6 Supply jars, 90c doz. .45 2 Vegetable brushes, 5c ea. .10 1 Grater .20 2 Egg-beaters, 10c ea. .20 12 Forks 2.25 12 Teaspoons 1.20 6 Tablespoons, $2.85 doz. 1.43 6 Vegetable knives, 25c ea. 1.50 6 Case knives, $3.00 doz. 1.50 2 Strainers, 20c ea. .40 1 Spatula .40 1 Bread knife .50 1 Can-opener .10 1 French knife .45 2 Water pails, $1.15 ea. 2.30 6 Dish-towels, 25c ea. 1.50 3 Dish-cloths, 10c ea. .30 3 Rinsing cloths, 10c ea. .30 1 yd. oil-cloth .45 5 yards cheesecloth .35
EQUIPMENT FOR RURAL SCHOOL HOUSEHOLD SCIENCE CABINET—NO. II
The equipment included in the Cabinet and Cupboard shown in Figure 27, page 154, is as follows:
For Six Pupils
1 Cupboard $15.00 1 Cabinet table 10.00 1 Three-burner oil-stove 21.00 1 Portable oven 2.20 1 Storage tin 1.35 2 Dish-pans 1.30 2 Draining pans .90 2 Scrub basins .80 2 Soap-dishes .40 1 Pail .55 2 Pails 1.80 2 Dippers .70 2 Tea-kettles 2.00 3 Kneading boards .90 3 Rolling-pins .45 1 Oil-can 1.10 1 Stove mitt .20 1 Dust-pan .10 1 Whisk .15 2 Scrub-brushes .30 3 Vegetable brushes .15 3 Stew pans 1.05 2 Sauce-pans .50 3 Frying-pans .75 3 Strainers .39 3 Pie plates .15 3 Measuring cups (tin) .30 1 Measuring cup (glass) .15 1 Double boiler .85 3 Baking-dishes .38 2 Cake tins .30 3 Toasters .30 1 Tea-pot .25 1 Coffee-pot .35 1 Pitcher (2 quarts) .18 1 " (1 pint) .10 5 Bowls .60 6 Custard cups .60 1 Butter crock .30 1 Covered pail (1 pint) .15 2 Trays .20 1 Grater .10 1 Potato masher .10 1 Can-opener .10 1 French knife .35 1 Bread " .35 3 Egg-beaters .15 1 Dover egg-beater .10 3 Wooden spoons .15 6 Paring knives .90
For Eight Pupils
1 Cupboard $15.00 1 Cabinet table 10.00 1 Collapsible table 5.00 1 Three-burner oil-stove 21.00 1 One-burner oil-stove 6.50 1 Portable oven 2.20 1 Storage tin 1.35 2 Dish-pans 1.30 2 Draining pans .90 4 Scrub basins 1.60 2 Soap-dishes .40 1 Pail .55 2 Pails 1.80 2 Dippers .70 3 Tea-kettles 3.00 4 Kneading boards 1.20 4 Rolling-pins .60 1 Oil-can 1.10 1 Stove mitt .20 1 Dust-pan .10 1 Whisk .15 4 Scrub brushes .60 4 Vegetable brushes .20 4 Stew-pans 1.40 2 Sauce-pans .50 4 Frying-pans 1.00 4 Strainers .52 4 Pie plates .20 4 Measuring cups (tin) .40 1 Measuring cup (glass) .15 1 Double boiler .85 4 Baking-dishes .50 2 Cake tins .30 4 Toasters .40 1 Tea-pot .25 1 Coffee-pot .35 2 Pitchers (2 quarts) .35 1 Pitcher (1 quart) .10 6 Bowls .72 6 Custard cups .60 1 Butter crock .30 1 Covered pail (1 pint) .15 2 Trays .20 1 Grater .10 1 Potato masher .10 1 Can-opener .10 1 French knife .35 1 Bread " .35 4 Egg-beaters .20 1 Dover egg-beater .10 4 Wooden spoons .20 6 Paring knives .90
For Twelve Pupils
1 Cupboard $15.00 1 Cabinet table 10.00 1 Collapsible table 5.00 2 Three-burner oil-stoves 42.00 1 Portable oven 2.20 1 storage tin 1.35 3 Dish-pans 1.95 3 Draining-pans 1.35 6 Scrub basins 2.40 3 Soap-dishes .60 1 Pail .55 2 Pails 1.80 2 Dippers .70 3 Tea-kettles 3.00 6 Kneading boards 1.80 6 Rolling-pins .90 1 Oil-can 1.10 2 Stove mitts .40 1 Dust-pan .10 1 Whisk .15 6 Scrub brushes .90 6 Vegetable brushes .30 6 Stew pans 2.10 3 Sauce-pans .75 6 Frying-pans 1.50 6 Strainers .78 6 Pie plates .30 6 Measuring cups (tin) .60 1 Measuring cup (glass) .15 1 Double boiler .85 6 Baking-dishes .75 3 Cake tins .45 6 Toasters .60 1 Tea-pot .25 1 Coffee-pot .35 2 Pitchers (2 qt.) .35 2 " (1 qt.) .20 8 Bowls .96 6 Custard cups .60 1 Butter crock .30 1 Covered pail (1 pt.) .15 2 Trays .20 1 Grater .10 1 Potato masher .10 1 Can-opener .10 1 French knife .35 1 Bread " .35 6 Egg-beaters .30 3 Dover egg-beaters .30 6 Wooden spoons .30 12 Paring knives 1.80
In the equipment for twelve pupils, three one-burner oil-stoves at $6.50 each might be used in place of the second large stove. In this case extra provision must be made for storing the stoves when not in use, as the cabinet shown does not provide space for more than one large stove. Care should be taken in using the one-burner stove to avoid upsetting it while it is in use. The equipment given above is generous, and reductions may be made if necessary. In any case it is not advisable that the whole equipment should be purchased at once; only sufficient to make a beginning should be secured, and further utensils may be added as the necessity for their use arises.
If a hot dish is served at the noon lunch, as is most desirable, the following will be needed in addition, in order to serve twenty-four pupils:
24 Knives $2.40 24 Forks 1.20 24 Teaspoons .40 12 Tablespoons .60 6 Salt and pepper shakers 1.50 24 Glasses 1.50 24 Plates 2.20 4 Plates (large) .50 24 Cups and saucers 4.20 24 Fruit and vegetable dishes 1.50
HECTOGRAPH
The hectograph is a device for making copies of written work. Teachers whose schools have limited black-board space will find it of great service. Recipes and other rules for work may be copied and distributed to the pupils, and thus kept in a permanent form. Many other uses in connection with the general work of the school will suggest themselves.
The following are the directions for making:
Soak 1-1/2 ounces of white glue in three ounces of water until it is well softened. Cook in a double boiler until the whole mass is smooth. Remove from the fire and add six ounces of glycerine. Mix well, re-heat, skim, and pour into a shallow pan or on a slate. Prick the bubbles as soon as they show. Allow the mixture to stand for twenty-four hours, and it is then ready for use.
Write the material to be copied, in hectograph ink, on a sheet of the same size as that on which the copy is to be made. Write clearly and space carefully. Wipe the hectograph with a damp cloth. Lay a sheet of unglazed paper on the hectograph, rub it carefully, and take off at once. This removes any drops of water, but leaves the surface moist. Lay the written side of the sheet on the hectograph and rub it carefully over its whole surface with a soft cloth, so that every particle of the writing comes in contact with the surface of the hectograph. Leave it there for four or five minutes. Lift one corner and peel off carefully. Lay a plain sheet on the hectograph and rub as before. Take off as before. If the copy is not clear, leave the next sheet on a little longer. When sufficient copies have been made, wash the hectograph with a wet cloth before putting it away. Keep in a cool, dry place.
THE RURAL SCHOOL LUNCH
The best method of approach to Household Science in the rural school is through the medium of the hot noon-day lunch or the preparation of one or two hot dishes to supplement the lunch brought from home. Owing to the fact that many pupils live far from the school, it is impossible for them to go home for the mid-day meal, and they are thus dependent upon lunches which they bring with them. Very frequently the pupils are allowed to eat their lunches where and how they please, and the method chosen is conducive neither to comfort nor to health. In fine weather they do not wish to lose any time from their games, and so they eat their food while playing, or they bolt it, in order that they may get to their play more quickly. In severe weather they crowd round the steps or the stove and do not hesitate to scatter crumbs and crusts. In one case even a teacher has been seen holding a sandwich in one hand and writing on the black-board with the other.
In many cases the lunch does not attract the pupil. It is often carried, without proper wrapping, in a tin pail, and it then absorbs the taste of the tin; again, it is often wrapped in a newspaper and is flavoured with printer's ink; occasionally, it is wrapped in cloth not too clean. Conditions such as these are not fair to the pupils. They come a long way to school, often over poor roads; and it is necessary, for both their physical and their mental development, that they should receive adequate nourishment served as attractively as possible. Many of the defects found among school children can be traced, to a greater or less extent, to lack of nutrition. The United States military draft shows that the number of those physically defective is from seven to twenty per cent. higher in rural districts than in towns and cities, and this difference is not peculiar to that country. May we not reasonably suppose that many of these defects are caused by mal-nutrition, and that this mal-nutrition is in part due to the poor noon-day lunch? As these defects hinder mental as well as physical development, the question of proper nutrition through the medium of the school lunch becomes an educational one.
THE BOX LUNCH
With proper care in the selection of food, the packing of the lunch box, and rational methods of consumption, there is no reason why the box lunch should not be nourishing, attractive, and possess an educational value.
It may be laid down as an axiom that every school lunch should be supervised by the teacher and hap-hazard methods of eating the lunch should be prohibited. Those schools that are fortunate enough to possess a large table can approximate somewhat to the best home conditions, and have the table set in the proper manner, as shown in Lesson VI, page 18. The pupils should sit round the table, at the head of which is the teacher, and the lunch may be made to partake of the nature of a family party. If rightly managed, the meal, even under the unusual difficulties presented in the rural school, may offer the most favourable opportunities to inculcate habits of cleanliness and neatness and to cultivate good manners. The pupils will learn something about the proper selection of food and the importance of thorough mastication. Clean hands and faces and tidy hair should be insisted upon, and individual drinking cups should be encouraged. As a manual training exercise, each pupil may be taught to make his own drinking cup from heavy waxed paper. Grace may be said by the older pupils in turn.
The table should be made to look as attractive as possible. The pupils, in turn, might undertake to have the table-cloth washed at home or, in place of a linen cloth, a covering of white oil-cloth may be used. In some cases the school garden will be able to supply flowers or a growing plant for a centrepiece. Three or four of the larger pupils, either boys or girls, may set the table in ten minutes, while the others are washing their hands and faces and tidying their hair. Some such plan as this will add palatability and cheer to the monotony of the everyday cold and often unattractive lunch and will create a spirit of true and healthy sociability among the pupils.
In schools that do not possess tables large enough to be used as suggested above, each pupil should be required to set one place at his own desk, as shown in the illustration on page 20. A paper napkin may be used for a table-cloth, if a small piece of white oil-cloth is not procurable. Each pupil retains his place until all have finished; he should then dispose of the crumbs and leave his desk tidy. From twenty minutes to half an hour is generally found sufficient for the meal. There should be cheerful conversation and restrained laughter throughout the meal, and acts of courtesy and generosity should be encouraged. At seasons when there are no flies, and on days when the weather is favourable, it is a pleasant change to serve lunch out-of-doors.
The lunch is provided by the home, but the teacher may give some useful lessons in Household Science by talks on the contents of the lunch box and the proper methods of packing the same, so that the food will keep in good condition until the time for its consumption arrives. It is the duty of the school authorities to provide a suitable storage place for the lunch boxes. These boxes should be kept free from dust or flies and in a place where the food will not freeze in winter. Open shelves, so often seen, are not suitable and a properly ventilated cupboard in the school-room should be provided.
CONTENTS OF THE LUNCH BOX
The whole question of the box lunch presents a serious problem, when we consider the large number of children who must depend upon it for their noon-day meal. This meal should be so constituted as to make it a real meal and not a makeshift. The same principles which govern the preparation of the meal should govern the preparation of the lunch box. It is said that the school lunch should consist of "something starchy and something meaty, something fat and something fibrous, something sweet and something savoury".
With so many varieties of breads, meats, cheese, jams, etc., innumerable kinds of sandwiches may be made. For example, there are brown, graham, rye, raisin, nut, and date breads, and equally many kinds of meat. Such variety makes it quite unnecessary to have an egg sandwich or hard-boiled eggs in the lunch box each day. While eggs are very valuable in the diet, a lunch with hard-boiled eggs five times each week becomes monotonous, and the appetite of the consumer flags. With skill and thought one can make little scraps of meat or other "left-overs" into attractive sandwiches. Ends of meat, ground and mixed with salad dressing or cream, make delicious sandwich fillings.
SANDWICH MAKING
The bread should be cut evenly.
The thickness of the slice should vary with the appetite of the consumer.
The crust should not be removed.
The butter should be creamed for spreading.
Both slices should be buttered, in order to prevent the absorption of the filling.
The filling should be carefully placed between the slices.
The sandwiches should be wrapped in waxed paper, to prevent drying.
SUGGESTIONS FOR SANDWICH FILLING
1. Egg and ham:
Three eggs hard boiled and chopped fine or ground An equal amount of chopped or boiled ham Salad dressing Mix and spread.
2. Raisin filling:
One cup of raisins ground or chopped One half-cup of water One half-cup of sugar One tablespoonful of flour into the same quantity of vinegar Juice and grated rind of one lemon Cook in a double boiler until thick.
3. Fig filling:
Remove the stems and chop the figs fine. Add a small quantity of water. Cook in a double boiler until a paste is formed. Add a few drops of lemon juice. Chopped peanuts may be added.
4. Egg:
Chop a hard-cooked egg. Mix with salad dressing or melted butter, to a spreading consistency.
5. Equal parts of finely-cut nuts and grated cheese, with salad dressing
6. Equal parts of grated cheese and chopped olives
7. Sardines with lemon juice or a little dressing
8. Chopped dates with a little cream. Nuts may be added.
9. Thinly sliced tomatoes (seasonal)
10. Sliced cucumbers
11. Marmalade. Chopped nuts may be added.
SUGGESTIONS FOR PLANNING
In selecting the food the following suggestions may prove helpful:
Protein—Sandwiches of fish, meat, egg, cheese, nuts, dish of cottage cheese
For the older pupils, baked beans
Carbohydrates—Bread, cake, cookies, jam, honey, dates, figs, raisins, prunes, candy
Fats—Butter, cream, peanut-butter
Mineral matter—Celery, lettuce, radish, tomatoes; fresh fruits
Note.—When possible, a bottle of clean sweet milk should form part of every lunch.
SUGGESTIONS FOR DESSERTS
Cup custards of various flavours
Cookies with nuts and fruits
Cakes—not too rich
Pies well made and with good filling
Candy—plain home-made
Preserves
Canned fruits
Fresh fruits
As often as possible, a surprise should be included, generally in the form of a dessert of which the pupil is fond. A surprise adds to the pupil's pleasure in eating and, indirectly, aids digestion.
PACKING THE LUNCH BOX
Much of the attractiveness of a lunch depends upon the manner of packing. We must consider the fact that the foods must be packed together closely and must remain so packed for several hours. This makes careful packing a necessity.
RULES FOR PACKING
1. Be sure that the box is absolutely clean. 2. Line it with fresh paper every time it is used. 3. Wrap each article of food in wax paper. 4. Place in the box neatly, the food that is to be used last in the bottom of the box, unless it is easily crushed. 5. Lay a neatly folded napkin on the top.
EQUIPMENT FOR PACKING
Lunch box Waxed paper Paper napkin Cup or container with screw top Drinking cup Knife, fork, and spoon Thermos bottle or jar for milk or other liquid
The box itself should be of odourless material, permanent, and light in weight, admitting of safe means of ventilation. Paper bags should never be used for food containers, as it is impossible to pack the lunch in them firmly and well and there is danger of their being torn or of insects or flies creeping into them. Boxes of fibre, tin, basket weave, or other material, may be used. The box will require scrubbing, and should be frequently dried and aired well. Many types of lunch boxes have compartments provided for the various kinds of food.
Waxed paper and paper napkins, or the somewhat heavier paper towels of much the same size, are very useful for packing lunches, and may be obtained at a low price, particularly if bought in large quantities. An extra napkin, either of paper or cloth, should be put in the basket, to be spread over the school desk when the lunch is eaten. Napkins can be made out of cotton crepe at a cost of a very few cents each. The crepe may be bought by the yard and should be cut into squares and fringed. Such napkins have the advantage of not needing to be ironed.
Paper cups, jelly tumblers with covers which can now be bought in several sizes, and bottles with screw tops, such as those in which candy and other foods are sold, may all be used for packing jellies, jams, honey, etc. The thermos bottle may be used for carrying milk, or, if this is too expensive, a glass jar with a tight cover may be substituted. If the thermos bottle is used, hot drinks may also be carried.
SERVING A HOT DISH
The serving of a hot lunch or of one hot dish need be neither an elaborate nor an expensive matter. Many rural schools in the United States, some of them working under conditions worse than any of ours, are serving at least one hot dish to supplement the lunch brought from home. The advantages of this plan are:
1. It enables the pupils to do better work in the afternoon.
2. It adds interest to the school work and makes the pupils more ready to go to school in bad weather.
3. It gives some practical training and paves the way toward definite instruction in Household Science.
4. It gives a better balance to meals, and as compared with a cold lunch it aids digestion.
5. It teaches neatness.
6. It gives opportunity to teach table manners.
7. It strengthens the relationship between the home and the school.
THE METHOD
The teacher should have a meeting of the school trustees and of the mothers of the pupils and outline the method of procedure. It is only in this way that the co-operation of all can be secured, and without this co-operation there can be no success. This meeting should be addressed by the Public School Inspector; and after the consent of the parents and the trustees has been secured, the scheme may be put into operation. Some thought will have to be given to the organization, in order that the plan may work smoothly. If properly organized, there need be little or no interruption to the ordinary routine of the school.
The pupils, both boys and girls, should be arranged in groups, each group taking the work in turn. Even the smallest pupils should be allowed to take part, as there are many duties which they can perform successfully. If each group is composed of five or six pupils, the work may be arranged as follows: two will prepare the dish, two will get the table or the desks ready (or each pupil may prepare his own desk), and the others will wash the dishes.
The furnishing of supplies is a problem which each teacher will have to solve for herself, according to the conditions which exist in the community. Supplies which can be stored are best purchased by the school trustees; while the mothers of the pupils should furnish the perishable articles, such as milk and butter. As often as possible, the pupils may be asked to bring various articles, such as a potato, an apple, a carrot, an egg, etc. These may be combined and prepared in quantities. The school garden should be relied upon to supply many vegetables in season, thus adding interest and life to both the garden work and the lunch. In some districts the neighbourhood is canvassed for subscriptions in order to provide funds to purchase supplies for the term lunches. Some schools give a concert or entertainment in order to raise funds for this purpose, and in others all the supplies have been purchased by the school trustees.
The pupils who are to prepare the hot dish may make the necessary preparations before school or at recess, and they must so time the cooking that the dish will be ready when required. They should be allowed to leave their desks during school hours to give it attention if necessary. In schools where this method is adopted, it has been found that the privilege has never been abused, nor have the other pupils been less attentive on account of it. However, most of the recipes suggested later require little or no attention while cooking.
At twelve o'clock the assigned pupils get the dish ready for serving and set the table. The others wash their hands, tidy their hair, and get their lunch boxes. All pass to their places. The pupils who have prepared the dish may serve it, using trays to carry each pupil's supply, or the pupils may pass in line before the serving table and to their places, time being thus saved. When the meal is finished, the pupils rise and bring their dishes to the serving table and stack them with the other dishes. Two remain behind to clear up and wash the dishes, while the others go to play. If the desks are used, each pupil is responsible for leaving his own desk clean.
The pupils may be required to keep an account of the cost of the food and to calculate the cost per head per day or per week. A schedule of the market prices of food should be posted in a conspicuous place, and the pupils may take turns in keeping these prices up to date. A separate black-board may be used for this purpose.
The dish chosen should be as simple as possible—a vegetable or cream soup, cocoa, baked potatoes, baked apples, white sauce with potatoes or other vegetables, apple sauce, rice pudding, etc. It may be well, in some cases, to have plans made on Friday for the following week. As a rule, each day a little before or after four o'clock, the recipe for the following day should be discussed, the quantities worked out to suit the number of pupils, and the supplies arranged for. The element of surprise should be made use of occasionally, the pupils not being allowed to know the dish until they take their places.
SUGGESTED MENUS
The following are some suggested menus in which the food brought from home is supplemented by one hot dish. (The name of the hot dish is printed in italics.)
1. Potato soup, meat sandwiches, orange, sponge cake
2. Cream of tomato soup, bread and butter sandwiches, stuffed egg, pear, oatmeal cookies
3. Apple cooked with bacon, bread and butter sandwiches, gingerbread, milk
4. Cocoa, date sandwiches, celery, graham crackers, apple
5. Stewed apples, egg sandwiches, plain cake, prunes stuffed with cottage cheese
6. Custard, brown bread sandwiches, apple, raisins, sauce, molasses cookies
7. Baked beans, bread and butter sandwiches, fruit, sauce, molasses cookies
SUGGESTIONS FOR HOT DISHES FOR FOUR WEEKS
First week Second week
Monday Potato soup Rice and milk Tuesday Cocoa Tomato soup Wednesday Coddled eggs Egg broth Thursday Creamed potatoes Chocolate custard Friday Soft custard Rice and tomato
Third week Fourth week
Monday Macaroni and cheese Rice soup Tuesday Creamed eggs Cocoa Wednesday Cheese soup Boiled rice and milk Thursday Apple sauce Soft-cooked eggs Friday Cheese Wheat pudding
First week Second week
Monday Rice soup Macaroni and cheese Tuesday Cocoa Apple sauce Wednesday Baked apples Shirred eggs Thursday Custard Cheese soup Friday Baked eggs Apple custard
Third week Fourth week
Monday Potato soup Rice and tomato Tuesday Tapioca cream Apple custard Wednesday Cocoa Tomato soup Thursday Creamed potatoes Cracker pudding Friday Soft custard Cocoa
RECIPES SUITABLE FOR THE RURAL SCHOOL LUNCH
All the recipes given have been used with success in preparing rural school lunches. The number that the recipe will serve is generally stated and, where this number does not coincide with the number of pupils in any particular school, the quantities required may be obtained by division or multiplication. The recipes given in the lessons on cooking may also be used in preparing the school lunch, as each recipe states the number it will serve.
White Sauce
1 c. milk 2 tbsp. flour 1/2 tbsp. butter 1/4 tsp. salt 1/8 tsp. white pepper
Reserve one quarter of the milk and scald the remainder in a double boiler. Mix the flour to a smooth paste with an equal quantity of the cold milk and thin it with the remainder. Stir this gradually into the hot milk and keep stirring until it thickens. Add the butter, salt, and pepper, and cover closely until required, stirring occasionally. This recipe makes a sauce of medium consistency. To make a thick white sauce, use 3 or 4 tablespoonfuls of flour to one cup of milk.
Cocoa
6 tbsp. (18 tsp.) cocoa 6 tbsp. (18 tsp.) sugar 6 c. milk 6 c. boiling water 1/2 tsp. salt
Scald the milk in a double boiler. Mix the cocoa, sugar, and salt, then stir in the boiling water and boil for 3 minutes. Add this mixture to the scalded milk. If a scum forms, beat with a Dover egg-beater for one minute. The preparation should begin at half-past eleven, to have the cocoa ready at twelve o'clock. (Will serve eighteen.)
Potato Soup
1 qt. peeled potatoes cut in thin slices 3 qt. milk 2 tsp. salt 4 tsp. butter 4 tbsp. flour 1/8 tsp. black pepper 1 small onion 1/2 tsp. celery seed or a stock of celery
Before the opening of school, the potatoes should be pared and put into cold water; and the butter, flour, salt, and pepper should be thoroughly mixed. At eleven o'clock, the potatoes, onion, and celery should be put on to boil gently and the milk put into a double boiler to heat. When the vegetables are tender, they should be strained with the cooking liquid into the hot milk and the mixture bound with the flour. The soup should be closely covered until required. (Will serve ten.)
Cream of Pea Soup
1 can peas or 1 qt. fresh peas 1 pt. milk 2 tbsp. butter 2 tbsp. flour 1 tsp. salt 1/4 tsp. pepper
Heat the peas in their own water, or cook them in boiling salted water until tender. Put the milk to heat in a double boiler. When the peas are tender, rub them, with the cooking liquid, through a strainer into the scalded milk. Add the butter and flour rubbed to a smooth paste and stir until thickened. Season and cover until required. (Will serve six pupils generously.)
Cream of Tomato Soup
1 pt. or 1 can tomatoes 2 tbsp. butter 3 tbsp. flour 1 tsp. sugar 1 qt. milk Sprig of parsley 1/4 tsp. white pepper 1/2 tsp. soda 1 tsp. salt
Cook the tomatoes slowly with the seasonings for ten minutes and rub through a strainer. Scald the milk, thicken with the flour and butter rubbed to a paste, re-heat the tomatoes, and add the soda, mix with the milk, and serve at once. (Will serve six pupils generously.)
Cream of Corn Soup
2 pt. cans corn 1 pt. cold water 2 slices onion 2 qt. of thin white sauce Seasonings
The process is that used in making Cream of Pea Soup. When making the thin white sauce, place the onion in the milk and leave it until the milk is scalded. Then remove the onion to the other mixture and make the sauce. This gives sufficient onion flavour. (Will serve eighteen.)
Lima-bean Soup
1 c. Lima beans 2 qt. water 2 whole cloves 1 bay leaf 1 tsp. salt 3 tbsp. butter 2 tbsp. flour 3 tbsp. minced onion 1 tbsp. " carrot 1 tbsp. " celery 1/4 tsp. pepper
Soak the beans overnight in soft water or in hard water which has been boiled and cooled. If cold, hard water is used, add 1/4 tsp. baking-soda to 1 qt. of water. In the morning, drain and put on to cook in 2 qt. of water. Simmer until tender. It takes 2 hours. Cook the minced vegetables in the butter for 20 minutes, being careful not to brown them. Drain out the vegetables and put them into the soup. Put the flour and butter into a pan and stir until smooth. Add this mixture to the soup. Add the cloves, bay leaf, and seasonings, and simmer for 1 hour. Rub through a sieve. One cup of milk may be added. Bring to the simmering point and serve. (Will serve eighteen.)
Note.—If desired, the vegetables may be used without browning and the cloves and bay leaf omitted.
Milk and Cheese Soup
4 c. milk 2 tbsp. flour 1-1/3 c. grated cheese Salt and pepper to taste
Thicken the milk with flour, cooking thoroughly. This is best done in a double boiler, stirring occasionally. When ready to serve, add cheese and seasoning. (Will serve six.)
Cream of Rice Soup
4 tbsp. rice 4 c. milk 3 tbsp. butter 1/2 small onion 4 stalks celery 1/2 bay leaf Salt and pepper to taste
Scald the milk, add the well-washed rice, and cook for 30 minutes in a closely covered double boiler. Melt the butter and cook the sliced onion and celery in it until tender, but not brown. Add these, with the bay leaf, to the contents of the double boiler, cover, and let it stand on the back of the stove for 15 minutes. Strain, season with salt and pepper, re-heat, and serve. Note that the bay leaf is added and allowed to stand, to increase the flavour, and may be omitted if desired. (Will serve six.)
Rice Pudding
3 c. rice 6 c. water 6 c. milk 2 c. sugar 4 eggs 2 tsp. salt 3 c. fruit (chopped raisins) if desired
Wash the rice in a strainer placed over a bowl of cold water, by rubbing the rice between the fingers. Lift the strainer from the bowl and change the water. Repeat until the water is clear. Put the water in the upper part of a double boiler directly over the fire, and when it boils rapidly, gradually add the rice to it. Boil rapidly for 5 minutes, then add the milk, to which has been added the sugar, salt, and eggs slightly beaten. Cover, place in the lower part of the double boiler, and cook until kernels are tender—from 45 minutes to 1 hour. If raisins are used, add them before putting the rice in the double boiler. Serve with milk and sugar as desired. (Will serve eighteen.)
Rice Pudding
2 c. rice 1 c. raisins 1 tsp. salt 4 qt. milk 1 c. sugar 1 tsp. cinnamon
Prepare the rice and raisins and put them, with the other ingredients, in a buttered pan. Bake all forenoon, stirring occasionally during the first hour. Serve with milk or cream. (Will serve ten.)
Cream of Wheat
1-1/2 c. cream of wheat 10 c. boiling water 1-1/2 tsp. salt 1-1/2 c. dates (chopped)
Put the boiling water and salt in the upper part of the double boiler directly over the heat. When boiling, add the cereal slowly. Stir constantly until the mixture thickens. Add the dates and cook for 5 minutes. Place in the lower part of the double boiler and cook at least 1 hour. Serve with milk and sugar. (Will serve eighteen.)
Scrambled Eggs
9 eggs 1 c. milk 2 tbsp. butter 1 tsp. salt Pepper
Beat the eggs until the yolks and whites are well mixed. Add the seasonings and milk. Heat the frying-pan, melt the butter in it, and turn in the egg mixture. Cook slowly, scraping the mixture from the bottom of the pan as it cooks. As soon as a jelly-like consistency is formed, remove at once to a hot dish or serve on toast. (Will serve nine.)
Creamed Eggs
6 hard-cooked eggs 4 tbsp. butter 2 c. milk 4 tbsp. flour Salt and pepper
Melt the butter, add the flour, and stir in the milk gradually. Cook well and season with salt and pepper. Cut hard-cooked eggs in small pieces and add them to the white sauce. It may be served on toast. (Will serve six.)
Egg Broth
6 eggs 6 tbsp. sugar 1 c. hot milk Few grains salt Vanilla or nutmeg
Beat the eggs and add the sugar and salt. Stir in the hot milk gradually, so that the eggs will cook smoothly. Flavour as desired. (Will serve six.)
Soft-cooked Eggs
Wash the eggs and put in a sauce-pan, cover with boiling water, remove to the back of the stove or where the water will keep hot, but not boil. Let them stand, covered, from 7 to 10 minutes, according to the consistency desired.
Baked Shirred Eggs
Butter small earthen cups. Break an egg in each and sprinkle with a few grains of salt and pepper and bits of butter. Bake in a moderate oven until the white is set. For Shirred Eggs proceed as above, but to cook, place in a pan of hot water on the back of the stove, until the white is set.
Creamed Potatoes
White sauce (medium consistency) 3 tbsp. flour 3 tbsp. butter 1-1/2 c. milk Salt and pepper
Make a white sauce of the butter, flour, milk, and seasonings. Cut cold potatoes (about eight) into cubes or slices and heat in the sauce. Serve hot. (Will serve nine.)
Mashed Potatoes
Boil the potatoes, drain, and mash in the kettle in which they were boiled. When free from lumps, add to each cup of mashed potatoes:
1 tsp. butter 1 or more tbsp. hot milk 1/4 tsp. salt
Beat all together until light and creamy. Re-heat, and pile lightly, without smoothing, in a hot dish.
Baked Potatoes
Use potatoes of medium size.
Scrub thoroughly in water with a brush. Place in a pan in a hot oven. Bake from 45 to 60 minutes. When done, roll in a clean napkin and twist until the skin is broken. Serve immediately. (If no oven is available, place a wire rack on the top of the stove. Put the potatoes on this rack and cover them with a large pan. When half cooked, turn.)
Macaroni and Cheese
3 c. macaroni (2 pieces) 3 tsp. salt 3 qt. boiling water 6 c. white sauce (medium)
Cook the macaroni in boiling salted water until tender. Drain, pour cold water over it, and drain it once more. Put the macaroni into a baking dish, sprinkling a layer of grated cheese upon each layer of macaroni. Pour in the sauce and sprinkle the top with cheese. Cook until the sauce bubbles up through the cheese and the top is brown. To give variety, finely-minced ham, boiled codfish, or any cold meat may be used instead of the cheese. (Will serve ten.)
Cornstarch Pudding
1 qt. milk 3/4 c. cornstarch 1/2 tsp. salt 3/4 c. sugar Vanilla
Scald the milk in a double boiler. Mix the sugar, cornstarch, and salt together. Gradually add to the hot milk and stir constantly until it thickens. Cover, cook for 30 minutes, add vanilla, and pour into cold, wet moulds. When set, turn out, and serve with milk and sugar. (Will serve nine.)
Apple Sauce
9 tart apples 3/4 c. water 6 whole cloves (if desired) 3/4 c. sugar Piece of lemon rind (if desired)
Wipe, pare, quarter, and core the apples. Put the water, apples, lemon rind, and cloves into a sauce-pan. Cook covered until the apples are tender, but not broken. Remove the lemon peel and cloves. Add the sugar a few minutes before taking from the fire. The apples may be mashed or put through a strainer. (Will serve nine.)
Note.—The lemon and the cloves may be used when the apples have lost their flavour.
Stewed Prunes or Other Dried Fruit—Apricots, Apples, Pears
3/4 lb. fruit (about) 1-1/2 pt. of water 1/3 c. sugar 1 or 2 slices lemon or a few cloves and a piece of cinnamon stick
Wash the fruit thoroughly and soak overnight. Cook in the water in which it was soaked. Cover, and simmer until tender. When nearly cooked, add sugar and lemon juice. The cloves and cinnamon should cook with the fruit. All flavourings may be omitted, if desired. (Will serve nine.)
Soft Custard
2 c. milk 6 tbsp. sugar 2 eggs 1/2 tsp. vanilla A few grains of salt
Scald the milk in a double boiler. Add the sugar and salt to the eggs and beat until well mixed. Stir the hot milk slowly into the egg mixture and return to the double boiler. Cook, stirring constantly, until the spoon, when lifted from the mixture, is coated. Remove immediately from the heat, add vanilla, and pour into a cold bowl. To avoid too rapid cooking, lift the upper from the lower portion of the boiler occasionally. (Will serve six.)
Tapioca Custard Pudding
3 c. scalded milk 2 eggs slightly beaten 2 tbsp. butter 4 tbsp. pearl, or minute, tapioca 6 tbsp. sugar A few grains of salt
Minute tapioca requires no soaking. Soak the pearl tapioca one hour in enough cold water to cover it. Drain, add to the milk, and cook in a double boiler for 30 minutes. Add to remaining ingredients, pour into buttered baking-dish, and bake for about 25 minutes in a slow oven. (Will serve eight.)
Rice and Tomato
2 c. cooked rice 2 tbsp. butter 2 tbsp. flour 2 c. unstrained or 1 c. strained tomato 1 slice of onion minced Salt and pepper
Cook the onion with the tomato until soft. Melt the butter, and add the flour, salt, and pepper. Strain the tomato, stir the liquid into the butter and flour mixture, and cook until thick and smooth. Add the rice, heat, and serve. (Will serve six.)
Cracker Pudding
6 soda crackers 3 c. milk 3 eggs 6 tbsp. sugar 1/2 tsp. salt
Roll the crackers and soak them in milk. Beat the yolks and sugar well together and add to the first mixture, with some salt. Make a meringue with white of eggs, pile lightly on top, and put in the oven till it is a golden brown. Serve hot. (Will serve six.)
Note.—Dried bread crumbs may be used in place of the crackers.
Candied Fruit Peel
The candied peel of oranges, lemons, grapefruit, and other fruits makes a good sweet which is economical, because it utilizes materials which might otherwise be thrown away. Its preparation makes an interesting school exercise. The skins can be kept in good condition for a long time in salt water, which makes it possible to wait until a large supply is on hand before candying them. They should be washed in clear water, after removing from the salt water, boiled until tender, cut into small pieces, and then boiled in a thick sugar syrup until they are transparent. They should then be lifted from the syrup and allowed to cool in such a way that the superfluous syrup will run off. Finally, they should be rolled in pulverized or granulated sugar.
A large number of recipes have been given, in order that a selection may be made according to season, community conditions, and market prices, and so that sufficient variety may be secured from day to day.
Attention given to this matter will be well repaid by the improved health of the pupils, the greater interest taken in the school by the parents, and the better afternoon work accomplished. It has been well said: "The school lunch is not a departure from the principle of the obligation assumed by educational authorities toward the child, but an intensive application of the measures adopted for the physical nurture of the child, to the end of securing in adult years the highest efficiency of the citizen". |
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