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MR. JONES: I would like to ask Dr. Morris how he protects grafts the first year. Grafts growing the first year are very tender, put in late, and they will often winter kill in the tree that is perfectly hardy otherwise.
DR. MORRIS: Mr. Jones is quite right about that, and that is a matter requiring more experience than I have at the present time. What I have done in the way of protection fairly well is this: For instance, if I graft Persian walnut on black walnut and it makes a late start and then in September has a very sappy growth, or in October has a sappy growth of three or four or five feet (they grow tremendously fast, like weeds) if the bark at the base of the graft is brown or has two or three buds that are brown or partially ripened, I cut off four or five of the first leaves and let them harden. Then in the fall I cut off all but those four or five buds and put wax over the end. That is the way I avoid the winter killing of the sappy growth. As soon as the part nearest the grafted place begins to turn brown, looks like hardening up and two or three buds are pretty hard, I cut off four or five of those leaves right there and let the buds ripen, and those buds will ripen very well. I will sacrifice five or six buds for the sake of saving three or four buds. The next year they grow all right. That is not a nice way, but when you see you are going to lose a thing on account of sappiness, that will sometimes work.
MR. JONES: I generally wrap the base of the limb in burlap.
DR. MORRIS: If the sappy tip dies, it poisons the rest. There are poisonous enzymes that poison the rest of it.
MR. BIXBY: I was going to ask Prof. Chittenden if he could give any experience with the named varieties of black walnuts.
PROF. CHITTENDEN: I don't think I could distinguish between the varieties of black walnut that have been planted in this state. That is not a thing that I feel able to discuss. I know that a number of different varieties of black walnut have been planted. At the College we have done a good deal of grafting on the black walnuts, and we have not had very good success.
MR. BIXBY: I had in mind improved varieties of black walnut grafted on the black walnut stock.
PROF. CHITTENDEN: I don't think we have had any experience of that. We always get a good deal of wood from Pennsylvania in the spring and do the grafting in class. We can not expect a very high grade of work when the students do it as a part of their work of instruction. There are some black walnuts in the state that have very good nuts, and some that have not. I have tried to get for our nursery good nuts from trees that had a good native nut. We have had so much difficulty getting black walnuts at all the last few years that we have taken just what we could get. We get nuts from all over the central part of the state and plant in the nursery to get our seedling trees.
MR. BIXBY: I have found some of the named varieties of black walnuts bearing in quite a number of sections of this state and other states. They seem to bear quite young.
PRESIDENT REED: Mr. Jones has partly prepared a paper on "Pecans other than those of the well known sections," but as it has been impossible to complete it, it will be handed to the secretary later, and inserted in the proceedings.
PECANS OTHER THAN THOSE OF THE WELL KNOWN SECTIONS
J. F. JONES, LANCASTER, PENNSYLVANIA
Pecans have been grown in the South for a good many years, and, with the advent of budded and grafted trees of superior varieties in more recent years, the industry made great strides and now that the product of some of these grafted orchards is coming on the market and selling readily at high prices, the economic value and importance of the pecan is becoming to be more fully appreciated.
The success of the pecan in the South, led some planters in the northern states to make experimental plantings of these southern varieties but they have proven disappointing, as might be expected, since our seasons are too short for the nuts to mature, even where the trees are hardy. I have seen the Stuart, one of the largest southern pecans, when grown in Lancaster and Adams Counties, Pa., not half as large as the Indiana sorts and with little or no kernel. The Schley, one of the finest southern pecans, when grown in Adams Co., Pa., is so small that no one would recognize it and it has no kernel at all.
In very recent years, largely through the efforts of a few progressive men in Indiana, fine varieties of the pecan have been discovered in Indiana and Kentucky, and these varieties are being propagated and planted over the northern states generally. While the discovery of these varieties and their propagation marked a big step forward in extending the cultural range of the pecan and making it possible to grow this nut several hundred miles north of the southern pecan belt, not unlike the southern varieties, the Indiana and Kentucky varieties are necessarily limited in their range of adaptability, and it is perhaps not safe to recommend them for planting, except possibly in the more favored localities, north of the 40th parallel and south thereof and possibly in the elevated or mountain sections they should not be recommended for planting north of latitude 38 degrees. The advantages of securing varieties for propagation therefore from as far north as possible is obvious.
I have examined a good many sample pecans from Missouri and Kansas, some of which are excellent, but, aside from possibly being a little hardier in tree, they have no advantage over the fine Indiana and Kentucky varieties that we already have, unless of course, they should be better adapted to planting in the western states.
In its natural range, the pecan is found growing farther north along the Mississippi River, in Iowa and Illinois, than anywhere else in the country, and naturally we turned to these pecan forests hoping to find a variety bearing nuts of a size and quality to merit propagation and dissemination north of the belt where it is safe to recommend the planting of the Indiana varieties. As a result of correspondence with an Iowa nurseryman in the fall of 1914, I engaged the services of a competent man to gather pecans for me at Muscatine, Iowa. Following my instructions, this man searched the woods in that locality to find what I wanted for propagation and as a result, nuts were sent me from several trees which were carefully marked so that in case scions were wanted from any of the trees, they would be readily identified. This man seemed to be very enthusiastic about the nuts he sent me, and, as he had made a business of gathering pecans, and he knew the pecans in that section well, I felt that he had sent me the best that he had there. None of the pecans sent had sufficient size and merit to propagate however, and I gave the matter up. Fortunately, Mr. G. H. Corsan, Toronto, Canada, was endeavoring the same fall or winter to get pecans to grow trees that would succeed in Canada and he bought pecans from a dealer in Burlington, Iowa. Upon receiving this lot of nuts, Mr. Corsan was astonished at their large size, as he expected that pecans from the northern limit of the pecan to be of small size. Thinking that this party had sent him southern pecans, Mr. Corsan wrote him at once that he did not want southern pecans, explaining that he wanted them for planting. This party replied that the nuts sent him were genuine Iowa pecans. Knowing my interest in the matter, Mr. Corsan wrote me during the spring of 1915, giving me the facts in the case and urged that I go to Burlington the next fall and look up a variety for propagation. Fall came on, but with it, so much to do and with short help, due to war conditions, that I had to give up the trip, but, at Mr. Corsan's suggestion, I took the matter up with Mr. Ed. G. Marquardt, Burlington, Iowa, with the result that the matter was placed in his hands, with the assurance from Mr. Marquardt that he would do the very best he could for us. Mr. Marquardt employed a man who had made a business of gathering pecans there and who knew the trees bearing the largest nuts, and with the help of this man, finally located a tree 20 miles north of Burlington bearing very large pecans of thin shell and splendid quality. Although most of the nuts had been gathered, the husks on the ground indicated it had been bearing good crops. This tree was marked and some of the nuts sent to me. These pecans I considered remarkably fine for so far north. They were fully as large as the Indiana, with even a thinner shell and a full kernel of excellent quality. With the help of Mr. Marquardt, scions were secured from this tree the following spring, and grafting proved very successful, which we consider very fortunate, as this land was cleared during the war and this tree met the fate of others, being turned into lumber and it is no more.
This variety has been given Mr. Marquardt's name. Coming from 20 miles north of Burlington, Iowa, in north latitude 41 degrees, I shall expect the Marquardt to succeed any where south of the Great Lakes. The Indiana and Busseron pecans originated farther north than any others of the Indiana group, the original trees of which are growing in the Wabash River bottom, west of Oaktown, Ind., about 10 miles south of latitude 39. Most of the Indiana and Kentucky varieties are from latitude 38 degrees, or approximately 200 miles south of where the Marquardt originated. The climate of Iowa is also considerably colder than is the same latitude farther east, due to the more open character of the country west and to the influence of the Great Lakes farther east. The pecans there are not only necessarily hardier, but have to mature their fruit in a shorter season, which is all important in a variety for northern planting, as it has been shown that the pecan is hardy in tree considerably north of where it will mature its fruit properly. Realizing the importance of the Iowa pecans for northern planting and realizing the building of the big power dam on the Mississippi River at Keokuk, Iowa, and the consequent raising of the water level for considerable distance up the river together with building of levees and clearing of the forests, threatened the destruction of many of the pecan trees and pecan forests, Mr. Bixby spent nearly a week during the past fall in the pecan forests and groves along the Mississippi River around Clinton, Ia., and Burlington, Ia. The facts of the following paragraphs (except the last two) I have taken from his notes:
These pecan trees at Clinton, Iowa, are the most northerly growing of the native pecans so far discovered. They are on the islands in the river and on the bottom lands, where the land at low water is only a few feet above the water level, and at high water, several feet under water. The trees certainly are not suffering from lack of moisture. The soil is alluvial, seemingly of unknown depths and must be very fertile, enriched as it is by the deposits left by the high waters each year, or sometimes, several times a year. No pecan trees under six inches in diameter were seen here, and they ranged from that size up to 24 inches in trunk diameter 85 feet tall. No trees bearing large pecan nuts were seen, although the flavor of the kernels of practically all of the trees was good. Crops of nuts were irregular and seemingly not so good as they were some years. None of the trees near Clinton were deemed worthy of propagation.
The pecans at Burlington are growing under similar conditions to those at Clinton, but they are much more numerous, there being thousands of them, some being larger than any seen at Clinton. Four trees, including the Marquardt, have been discovered and brought to the attention of the association by Mr. Ed. G. Marquardt and Mr. John H. Witte of Burlington. Cuts of these nuts, natural size, are shown opposite page 48. The Marquardt is being propagated by me and the other three varieties by Snyder Bros., Center Point, Iowa.
From the appearance of the leaves, buds and habit of growth of the Marquardt pecan, it seemed to me that the tree had hickory blood in it, although the nut did not suggest it; and I intended to look into this matter fully, on a trip to Iowa the past fall, but finding I could not go, I gave Mr. Bixby samples of the nuts, leaves and twigs and told him what I expected, and he had this in mind during his trip. He never found young pecan trees growing in the woods but did find them growing in large numbers on the levees and on the edges of cultivated fields. A careful examination showed a very considerable variation in leaf, bud and habit of growth and there seemed little question but that there were among them many hybrids between the pecan and the big bottom shellbark, Carya laciniosa, which is found growing on the bottom lands and the islands along with the pecan. As a matter of fact, two of the four Iowa pecans selected for propagation, the Burlington and the Greenbay, show unmistakable evidence of hybrid parentage in the nut, in the leaves and buds. The Marquardt gives no hint of such parentage in the nut, but the leaves and buds do suggest that it has hickory blood in its make up, and it is believed that this is so. The Witte is seemingly a pure pecan.
There has recently been much done near Burlington in reclaiming valuable, cultivatable lands from the river which formerly overflowed them each year so that people were afraid to plant crops and they were therefore abandoned to the forests. Levees have recently been built to keep the water off these lands in time of high water. Drainage ditches have been made behind them and pumping plants put in to pump the water out of them. The cost of these improvements, which has given to cultivation much very fertile land, has been assessed on the owners of the lands benefited, as is also the upkeep expense. Many owners had not the money to pay the assessments and have sold the land to those who are clearing off the timber. This means the clearing of thousands of acres of bottom land and the pecan is one of the principle trees on these bottom lands. This condition makes it necessary to locate and propagate at once, the best and most promising of these Iowa pecans and hybrids and observe their behavior afterwards in the young trees, instead of depending on the watching of the behavior of the original trees as has been the case in Indiana.
I feel reluctant to close this address without mentioning the good work done by Secretaries Deming and Bixby and other members of this Association in searching for varieties of nuts that may be superior to what we already have. Those of us who are propagating these trees, while we may feel the inspiration that comes from doing a work that benefits mankind, nevertheless, we hope and expect to make dollars and cents out of growing these trees, while this is not the case with some of the members of this Association who are not nurserymen and who do not expect to enter this field.
Dr. Deming, former Secretary of this Association, did much good work and secured some fine nuts worthy of propagation, through advertising and the offering of premiums, and Mr. Bixby, who very kindly took up this work when Dr. Deming was called to the colors, has been active and is doing a great work for northern nut culture.
PRESIDENT REED: We will now have a grafting demonstration by Mr. Jones.
Mr. Jones had brought with him specimens of stock, scions and all the materials and tools needed for the demonstration, and performed the various operations of grafting and budding before the audience.
MR. JONES: We often use scions half or three-fourths of an inch in diameter, for grafting, but they are rather hard to get. In top working, we generally take limbs two to four inches in diameter, cut them off, and split the bark. The nut grafting must all be done late when the sap is up in the trees. Cut the scions all on one side. Split the bark, slip in the scion, tie up and wax the whole scion over with grafting wax, put it on hot and seal it up tight. Sometimes for winter protection of the English walnut as far north as Michigan your tip might kill back because it grows so very fast and is sappy. I have never
had trees kill in that way, but I do have many people write me that they have trees killed in that way. In nursery grafting, we usually use just the cleft method. You should cut the cleft on one side and don't split it, but keep it smooth all the way through.
PRESIDENT REED: You get better results, Mr. Jones, from waxing the entire scion?
MR. JONES: Yes, we get better results that way. In the South we have no success at all that way; we have to cover them with sacks.
VOICE: About what degree of heat is best for the wax?
MR. JONES: Don't have it too hot and it can't burn. You can tell that by the wax smoking.
PRESIDENT REED: As long as the wax does not smoke, it is pretty safe.
MR. JONES: This illustrates what we call a side graft. Put the scion in the side and leave the top on. You can also do it in bark grafting. Cut your bark, split it, and stick your scion straight down as it is here.
VOICE: How do you apply the hot wax?
MR. JONES: With a swab or brush. We use a carbon heater and that makes it about the right temperature.
VOICE: How large black walnut trees could be top worked to English walnuts?
MR. JONES: You can work almost any sized tree, but it is quite a job in the large tree. Take a tree larger than six inches in diameter, or eight, and it would not be very satisfactory. In cutting the scions be careful to make a straight surface on the cut bevel. To do that the knife should be held at an angle lengthwise to the scion. In our grafting in the South we leave the scion dry and cover it with a bag. That was in Florida.
DR. MORRIS: That is a very interesting question about the limits of our using the method of covering the scion and all with the wax. I shall speak of that in my own grafting demonstration which is short. I got the point from Mr. Jones, and Mr. Jones tells me he got it from Mr. Riehl. They use black wax and hard, strong wax.
MR. JONES: Mr. Riehl uses a liquid wax, resin and beeswax without the coloring matter. We use the coloring matter to toughen the wax.
DR. MORRIS: Still, that is amber. Amber will cut out light, and it seems to me that it is a matter of a good deal of consequence, the black or amber wax covering the graft completely, buds and all, wound, scion, stock. It succeeds in the North, succeeds better than any other method in grafting, and yet in the South it does not succeed. It is possible that as you get further south the longer sun, the hotter sun scalds the cambium layer of bark beneath when it would not do so in the North. That is at least worth thinking about. In my own work during the past year I have used transparent paraffin alone, nothing else. I have tried different kinds of paraffin, the Parowax, the common one that the women put up preserves with is the one that will stay on best, will not crack and is perfectly transparent, allowing the light of the sun to act upon the chlorophyl, in the bark and the bud and intensify the activity of that part of the plant that depends upon light transformation by means of chlorophyl. I am very much interested to know if this will not succeed in the South. Paraffin would not attract the heat of the sun, and it is possible that this will allow us to carry the method of Mr. Jones, the best method to date, still farther south.
MR. JONES: I think, Doctor, it is a matter of heat, because in the shade you can graft them almost any way. Do you cover the scion with paraffin or only the union?
DR. MORRIS: I cover the entire thing with paraffin, scions, buds and all including the wrapping. I don't leave anything exposed to the air. There are several principles involved there. In the first place you have the effect of light upon chlorophyl which is important; in the second place, the melted paraffin fills all interstices in which sap would collect and ferment. If those interstices are filled with melted paraffin, sap will not collect there and ferment. The microbes of bacterial and fungus origin, that prevent union and break down the products of repair that are thrown out for the purpose of repair, can not do it if they can not collect in quantity, and the paraffin fills the space in which they would collect in quantity; so that does away with another one of the dangers. In the third place, you have the same sap tension maintained in the scion as in the stock. The difference between the negative and positive pressures, day and night, is very great in spring time, and as the sap responds between day and night in the stock, it puts a strain upon the scion. The scion can not follow the stock with its sap movement ordinarily. But if scion and stock are covered completely with paraffin, the tension remains the same, so that you do away with the shock of varying negative and positive pressures. That is an important point, it seems to me, in principle in the matter of using the paraffin. Another point is this. You prevent evaporation from scion that goes on ordinarily through the little breathing lenticels, the little apertures between the cells of the bark which allow moisture to escape as well as to enter. One would naturally believe the paraffin would fill these and smother the scion, and I presume it is that fear which has prevented the world from trying this for the past ten thousand years, because they were skilful grafters in Egypt, both in the tree world and the financial world, in the days of Hammurabi there were skilful grafters in both worlds two or three thousand years before Christ. I suppose that fear of closing the breathing apertures in the stock has prevented people from adopting this method; but it is not justified, because those bold, brave nurserymen who are not afraid to smother a scion find that all the scions live. It is a venture into the unknown, that dramatic book, in the way of dramatically constructive progress. Another point: When you protect your graft in the ordinary way with ordinary wrapping, ordinary wax, the scion becomes timid, the stock becomes timid. It is not quite sure of itself in many cases, and when it is not sure of itself, when it has a fear, what does it do? It resorts to the protection method. What is the first? Suberization, cork layer formation. So the frightened stock throws cork cells over its cut surface between that and the graft, and the suberization goes on as a result of fear on the part of the timid stock. When you have taken away the fear by covering the whole area with melted paraffin and it feels safe, then suberization does not go on in this way, your stock is not frightened, you have not a scared tree at all, and it will go on kindly and gently as a Jersey heifer to do its work.
PRESIDENT REED: I would like to ask Dr. Morris about that myself. I am very much interested in the line of grafting, as we graft 50,000 to 100,000 every spring, using this same method. I feel as Mr. Jones does, that the losses from grafting are largely due to heat and the fermentation of sap. We find perhaps, that the first week of grafting in cherry, we can almost invariably secure a fairly good stand. Following that it tapers as the warmth and air increase, although the scions are kept in cold storage, perfectly dormant, the sap is coming up, and the increased rays of the sun—we get a very small percentage, and it seems to become less every day, and we have always used the dark wax. While I have been using paraffin wax a good deal of the time, I put lampblack in it for coloring.
DR. MORRIS: I have until this year. In order to get Mr. Jones' points, I tried to work out the philosophy of the subject and see what values there are, what meanings in the methods which led to his success. Then following that line of investigation, I stopped into another line of observation, and arrived at the transparent paraffin method, so that this is the first year in which I have tried it, but the results are perfectly remarkable. I have only done it for a year, but you will see 100% of catches on almost everything, hickories, walnuts, hazels. I must tell you of one very remarkable incident. Mrs. Morris had some dwarf trees set out on the slope of the lawn, dwarf pear trees. One of my men cut one of them off with a lawn mower the latter part of August. The top kicked around under foot for three or four days, wilted in the sun. We were walking past it along in August. I think Mr. Bixby said, "Why don't you try grafting on that kind of material?" I said, "I will, blessed if I don't." So I cut three pear scions from this wilted top that had been cut by the lawnmower in August, and I put them on a scrub pear tree under the fence near the house. And I tried this paraffin method, and in about six days one of them started out a shoot, and I said to one of my men, "We will transplant this. This is no place for it." I meant in the spring, or in a year or so. He transplanted it the next day. And it grew I think about half an inch after that, made good wood to last through the winter. So I don't know what the limitations of this paraffin method are. But that is a thing I would hardly dare tell about unless there were men here in this room who had seen it. That little pear top, cut off by mistake, kicked about under foot a few days in August, no sort of scion that any one would ever think of using as a graft, put it in as a joke, and with the further abuse of being transplanted; but it started growth, and now it is going to be a good pear tree.
MR. JONES: The kicking around only made it good for grafting.
PRESIDENT REED: Perhaps it ripened up to a certain extent by that drying out, like it would in the fall.
DR. MORRIS: Maybe, but I have never heard of horticulturists propagating trees in that way and transplanting them in the same year, and having the new wood from the graft harden for the winter.
MR. JONES: Mr. Reed spoke of grafting a cherry. You cut the top off didn't you?
PRESIDENT REED: Yes.
MR. JONES: We graft filberts by leaving the top on and cut the graft in on the side and wax it over. We leave it there two weeks, maybe, and cut it off, and we get perfect stands that way, and you would on the cherry.
PRESIDENT REED: We use the side grafting, but we cut the top off.
MR. VOLLERTSEN: I would like to ask Dr. Morris with regard to the stock. Don't you think the fact that that tree was moved at the time it was, so soon after grafting, had something to do with the retarding of the sap and causing the tree to mature the wood it did in place of making more growth?
DR. MORRIS: That might be. All of the expert horticultural opinions brought to bear on this are valuable. Every suggestion that has been made has had a meaning. It requires explanation.
PRESIDENT REED: If there is nothing further along that line, we have with us Mr. Conrad Vollertsen, of Rochester, who has been asked to prepare a paper; and we would like to hear from him. He is an expert in the filbert, and I believe can give us some valuable information. (Applause).
HAZEL NUTS AND FILBERTS
CONRAD VOLLERTSEN, ROCHESTER, N. Y.
Mr. President, Ladies and Gentlemen of this Convention: I have been approached by a member of the Northern Nut Growers' Association to prepare a paper to be read at this convention on the growing, cultivating, and propagating of the European hazel, together with such other topics on the subject, as would be of interest to the members of this association, particularly my experience and observations during the last three or four seasons in my hazel orchard and nursery.
Now, Ladies and Gentlemen, I am not a public speaker nor a public writer; my business is nursery and garden work; I can use spade and pick more freely than pen and ink, and, therefore, fear that I am not the right party called upon, knowing as I do, that we have members in this association far more capable and experienced, and who possess more knowledge about the European hazel than ever I had. Nevertheless as the growing and planting of the European hazel in the eastern and middle states of our country so far, both for ornamental or commercial purposes, has been more or less experimental, I think all practical information on the subject should be welcomed, and therefore I have consented to prepare this paper and hope it will be accepted for what it stands.
A number of years ago, after leaving school, I entered a large nursery and garden establishment in Germany, as an apprentice boy, to learn the garden business, to become a gardener and horticulturist, to learn how to raise trees and other plants, to learn how to graft, to prune and cultivate, and, in general, to take care of all kinds of growing plants. One of the first duties bestowed upon me in my new place was the charge of a large plot of young hazel or filbert plants. To prune or graft them? Not at all. At that time I did not know anything about such skilled labor. I was merely told to weed and hoe them and to keep them clean. It was not just very elegant work, but, ladies and gentlemen, I enjoyed very much indeed, every minute so employed among those young filbert bushes. I became really attached to them and knew practically every plant in the plot, and almost believe they knew me, too.
Now what was the reason for this immense pleasure I found in working among those plants? Was it perhaps from the commercial or financial point of view, the future income from them for fruit or when the plants reached a saleable age? Not at all. I was then too much of a boy and did not comprehend such a thing as that. It was merely the fond and pleasant recollection of my childhood, of my boyhood, when, together with other children, in the proper season, we went hunting for the common hazel nuts, the Corylus avellana, as the gathering of these nuts is one of the greatest pleasures of the German country child, and to roam through fields and woods in late summer in those beautiful September days, when the foliage of trees and bushes begin to color, when the birds of the garden, field and forest begin to assemble for future migration, when goldenrod, asters and other field flowers are reaching their greatest beauty, then, ladies and gentlemen, the hazelnut has reached maturity. The nut itself is a very beautiful brown color, the outer bark a golden yellow, the leaves of the plants slightly colored with bronze, pink or yellow, a most beautiful combination, a pleasure to look upon, and a sight never to be forgotten. Whoever has had an opportunity to see and admire a well fruited hazel plant, at the time of maturity, will agree with me that it is a thing of beauty, not only during the fruit bearing season, but in fact throughout the whole winter, with the handsome staminate flowers or catkins appearing very abundantly in early fall, and remaining throughout the winter, until late spring. Of all these pleasures, these beautiful sights, etc., of which a vivid and fond recollection caused all the pleasures in cultivating the above mentioned hazel lot, we need not be deprived in our otherwise so richly blest country. It is true that, at the present time, we have no American native hazel, that can fully compete with the better European varieties, but we hope that in time not far off, through scientific hybridization, such will be produced. For the time being, we have some very fine European varieties as a substitute, which for years have stood the test very well, and should be planted wherever a place can be spared for a few of them, and great pleasure and enjoyment will be the result. So much for the pleasure of raising hazel nuts. I have related the foregoing merely to show the lasting pleasure and enjoyments derived from the planting, cultivating and gathering of a few European hazel nuts.
But to raise hazel nuts for the pleasure of it only, would be a very poor business proposition, and certainly not a paying one. What we should do is to raise them in large quantities, for commercial purposes, but here it seems to me the question should be asked: Have we had experience enough as to recommend the planting of them in the middle and eastern states for commercial purposes? In other words, is it worth while to plant them with that point in view? Now, gentlemen, I do not suppose that any one of us, at the present time, would be fully capable or prepared to answer this question intelligently or positively, as the planting of the hazel, for commercial purposes, has not been tried long enough, at least not in the eastern or middle states, to warrant a positive opinion on the subject. A great deal depends upon the variety planted, also the location where the planting is done. Much observation and experimenting is still required.
I have growing on my ground in western New York, near Rochester, several hundred trees or bushes, 6 to 8 years old, about 20 varieties, most of them German varieties, a few from France, and a few from England. They have been bearing nuts the last four seasons, and all have reached maturity perfectly. The smaller and medium sized nuts appeared to bear a little better than the larger varieties. The varieties received from France have, so far, not done well with me, as the German varieties. They are poor bearers. In the fall of 1917, I gathered from each 5 to 6 year old tree, of the German variety, about a pound and a quarter of the medium sized nuts, while hardly a pound from the larger fruited varieties (same sized plants) ripened well. I was then under the impression that the hazel not only could but should be planted in large numbers for commercial purpose. In the fall of 1918 my crop of nuts was very much less, and I had expected even a better harvest than in 1917, which certainly was discouraging to me. The plants themselves were growing beautifully, but most of the staminate blossoms or catkins were frozen, and, consequently, very little pollenizing was accomplished, and very little fruit the result. Such and possibly other occurrences, from time to time we may expect and look for, and should be ready to investigate thoroughly, before we can advocate or recommend the planting of the hazel extensively.
It really seems strange that while the hazel generally is at home in the northern latitudes, it should partly freeze when the thermometer reaches say about 12 to 18 degrees below zero, and, as I had never noticed that before, it then occurred to me that possibly another reason could be found, why so many of the catkins were frozen.
Through my investigation in the spring of 1918, I have come to the conclusion that the unusually wet season in our vicinity of western New York throughout 1917 caused the hazel plants to grow until the real cold weather was upon them, which gave the wood a very poor chance to ripen, particularly the terminal buds, where a great many of the catkins had formed, and caused not only them to freeze but also a certain part of the wood. Only the lower and more protected catkins came through the winter alright and caused what little pollenizing was done, hence the very light harvest in the fall of 1918.
Should the results of my investigation prove true, and the continuance of the wet weather prove the main cause of freezing so many catkins, then it seems to me there is nothing to be alarmed about, and the planting of the European hazel, at least in this vicinity, for commercial purposes could be conscientiously recommended, and should be done, the sooner the better. We do not expect our apple or pear orchards to bear an abundant crop every year, and we should not expect it of our hazel orchards. Something will occasionally happen to them as well as to other crops, otherwise we run no risk whatever.
My trees or bushes, several hundred in number, planted in 1912 and later, have stood all kinds of weather, extreme cold, very hot, continuous wet, and still are growing most beautifully at the present time. They gave a very satisfactory crop of nuts this last fall, 1919, in spite of severe freezing weather on April 25th and 26th when the mercury dropped to 12 to 15 degrees, and all hazel bushes in full bloom. At the present time the prospect for a good crop of nuts next season is certainly very bright.
Neither fungus, blight, or other diseases of any kind, or troublesome insects have so far been detected. In planting the hazel for commercial purposes, I should recommend 12 feet distance between the plants each way, as they require abundant sun and air. At the same time, there is an opportunity to use the land between the rows for several years to come, as low growing crops like potatoes, strawberries, beans, beets, carrots, etc., could be grown there to great advantage, and the cultivation of these crops would be amply sufficient for the hazel plants.
Now the selection of varieties to be planted for the commercial hazel orchard is a very important part of the undertaking, and should be well considered. To plant several varieties is absolutely necessary on account of pollenizing, as staminate and pistillate flowers, though on the same plant, do not always appear together in proper condition on all plants; in fact it has been proven in my orchard that sometimes plants bring forth a great many pistillate blossoms and not a single staminate one on them, and still a good crop of nuts were grown on them. Here the pollination must have taken place with the pollen from other nearby plants conveyed to them by wind or insects. One particular plant of the zellernut type grown in one of my city lots during the last season was very well filled with pistillate blossoms and not one catkin on it, and still it ripened a fairly good crop of perfect nuts, where the nearest plants filled with staminate blossoms was at least 30 feet from it. Here it is shown and proven that a number of varieties is a necessity.
But what varieties we shall choose, will undoubtedly be an open question for some time to come, and, no doubt, a great deal of experimental work will have to be done to finally select the right varieties for the different localities, the variation of temperature and location has very much to do with the proper selection of varieties. I have among my varieties some I could recommend and again others that are not at all satisfactory, at least not so far, and it requires more close observation before the very best of them can be picked out or selected.
Our next operation in the hazel will be the pruning. Here I should say above all things: "Keep the suckers away." Hazel bushes are naturally inclined to produce a great many suckers, which should be thoroughly removed as soon as they appear; it will stop when the plants grow older. Besides the suckers, all weak and unnecessary wood should be removed entirely, not cut back. Our aim should be to try and get as near as possible low standard trees, with trunk say 10 to 15 inches high and the tree itself not to exceed 15 to 18 feet in height with the center kept open all the time. To accomplish this, I should suggest the removing of all crowding limbs from the center, regardless of their being fruit-bearing limbs, which to determine is mostly guess-work at the best. In order to keep the plants within 15 to 18 feet in height, the terminal shoots also should be removed or reduced as the case may be, beginning at the time of planting until the desired height is reached. After that, one or more of the old limbs may from time to time be removed, as there always will be enough young branches to take their places. Such pruning in my orchard, so far, has proved sufficient, as blight has never made its appearance in my nursery.
I will not be able to say much about blight. I have known trees in our city, 4 or 5 varieties, for more than 30 years, bearing more or less fruit year after year, and have never noticed any blight or anything wrong with them. Should blight appear, I should remove all affected limbs to the sound and healthy wood, as we would do to our pear and quince trees when blight appears among them. I do not believe that properly treated hazel bushes will ever suffer much from blight, at least not in our vicinity. Neither do I believe that any more pruning than I have outlined is required or necessary to our hazel plants.
The next subject about which I wish to say a few words is the propagation of hazel plants. There seems to be quite a difference of opinion as to the mode of propagating them; some advocate grafting, others layering, again others from suckers only. Grafting I believe myself, will produce a finer plant and the operation of doing so seems quite successful, but a great many varieties produce so many suckers that the graft is liable to be choked or crowded out if not constantly watched, and it should not be expected of the average person to know the difference between the graft and the wild shoot, and consequently, in a comparative short time, he would have a wild or common hazel. For that reason grafted plants should not be used for the trade until our people get better acquainted with hazel plants. I, therefore, should recommend layering, thereby having the plants on their own roots, which would prove more satisfactory everywhere. That grafted plants bear fruit sooner than layers, does not always hold good; it may be so with some varieties, but not with all of them. I have some three year old grafted plants and no fruit as yet, where I had plenty of layers in the nursery rows two years old well fruited.
It is true that plants grafted on seedlings of the Corylus avellana will not produce as many suckers, as plants grafted on layers of the avellana type, but they will produce enough to confuse the average person, as the foliage of some varieties are so nearly alike, that it actually requires an expert to tell the difference. I, therefore, under the existing circumstances, should advise the propagating of hazel plants by layers only, until our people get better acquainted with the hazel proposition in general. Why propagation by suckers only should be preferred by some people, I fail to see, as they are practically the same as layers, plants on their own roots from a parent plant, only that layers are produced a little more scientifically and suckers more naturally; otherwise they are identically the same thing.
When I referred to propagating, I should perhaps have mentioned the growing of hazel plants from seeds, that is from the nut, but I did not think it necessary. I will, however, say that plants raised from seed should never be planted for fruit bearing unless they are grafted or budded, as it has been fully and positively proven that plants raised from seed, even if the very finest nuts of our European hybrids are planted, will not produce nuts as good as those planted, but will almost invariably go back to the original type, the Corylus avellana. It is alright to raise plants from seeds for the sake of getting stock to graft or bud on, but, as to variety, the seedlings are unreliable.
Before coming to a close, I would like to say a few words about the fertilizing of the ground for hazel orchards and what experience I have had in this matter, as I believe this would be of interest to all. It is a well-known fact that hazel plants grow well and will thrive in almost any kind of soil, as long as it is not too wet or too heavy, but from time to time a little manure worked in is very beneficial both to old and young plants, but care and judgment should be exercised, so as not to overdo it. I have growing in one of my city lots with very fertile soil, several bearing hazel plants, 7 to 8 years old, different varieties. These plants grow so immensely that it plainly shows, they are growing at the expense of the fruit, not only that the quantity of nuts gathered from a plant there is considerably less than of same sized plants grown on ordinary farmland, but the quality also is very much below. My best nuts are all grown on ordinary farmland and the greatest quantity has always been obtained from the farm where only very little fertilizing or manuring had been done. For the growing of young plants for commercial purposes, for the trade, I should recommend liberal manuring at all times. (Applause.)
QUESTION: Is the hazel a long lived tree?
MR. VOLLERTSEN: I have known trees for almost forty years that are bearing good fruit year after year, although not always a good crop. They don't seem to grow so rapidly at that age as when younger.
DR. MORRIS: Hazels seem to graft pretty well on each other. I think the tree hazel is going to be our most successful stock for grafting. However, I have grafted on the Corylus avellana. The tree hazel does not put out any suckers.
QUESTION: Does the hazel find its way into the market commercially?
MR. VOLLERTSEN: I would almost think so. I have had lots of inquiries for them from storekeepers. It seems to me there are a great many imported around here. Our American hazels are not so very good. There may be here and there a fairly good one, but I have not found any really good ones worth propagating. I think if we would do more scientific work we could get very good nuts. There is no question that they are perfectly hardy and will stand almost any climate.
MR. JONES: Some of your varieties are hybrids aren't they?
MR. VOLLERTSEN: They are all hybrids. I have a few of the real, original avellana type I think got there by accident.
PRESIDENT REED: I believe the next paper is one the secretary has from Mr. A. H. Graves.
DISEASE RESISTANCE IN THE AMERICAN CHESTNUT[1]
ARTHUR H. GRAVES
(Read by the Secretary)
Your secretary, Mr. Bixby, has asked me to tell you about the native chestnut trees in the vicinity of New York City which I have found to be resistant to the destructive bark disease. I commenced the search for such trees in the summer of 1918, at the suggestion of Dr. Haven Metcalf, of the laboratory of Forest Pathology, Bureau of Plant Industry. During the campaign in Pennsylvania against the bark disease, scouts had been on the lookout for immune or resistant trees, but without result. As far as I am aware, no systematic organized search had been made for such individuals.
It was our plan to commence the search in the region of New York City, because this area is probably the oldest center of infection in the United States. Apparently this is the port of entry where the undesirable immigrants (Japanese or Chinese chestnuts) passed through quarantine and were allowed to disembark carrying their terrible scourge with them unnoticed. According to Metcalf and Collins,[2] this was probably as early as 1893. This was why we selected this area to begin on, for here the disease has had a longer opportunity to run its course than anywhere else, and, consequently, has had ample time (more than a quarter of a century) to call out the non-resistant trees. Those remaining, if any could be found, might be suspected, a priori, of being resistant.
As the work progressed, I soon realized that it would be most difficult, or perhaps impossible, to locate resistant or immune trees in a region not so long exposed to infection; for, in such a region, one would have to inoculate all individuals suspected of possessing resistant qualities, in order to ascertain whether their healthy condition was actually due to resistant qualities or simply the result of a chance escape of infection. We therefore decided to restrict the work, for the present at least, entirely to a definite area about New York City. This area includes all of the territory within a radius of about 16 miles from New York City Hall, and therefore comprised in a general way, Greater New York and the adjacent parts of New Jersey.
RESULTS OF THE SURVEY
First I made a thorough canvas of Staten Island, doing the work on foot, aided by the trolley and the Staten Island R. R., and often guided by that genial naturalist and lover of Staten Island, Dr. Arthur Hollick of the Staten Island Institute of Arts and Sciences, I made a careful survey of the whole 64 square miles of which the island is composed. After two weeks of this kind of work, I began to get fairly well discouraged, not so much because of lack of results which, it is true, were entirely negative, but more on account of the appearance of the dead chestnuts. For where it was not entirely cut out, the bare, weathered poles showed that they had been dead for many years. The only encouraging feature was the finding of large quantities of healthy seedlings, from 7 years of age upward, to which I will refer later.
The Palisade region along the Hudson has been notable in the past for its chestnut forests. I next attacked this, making as thorough a search as possible from Hoboken to a little north of Alpine, N. J., which is a small place on the Hudson opposite Yonkers. Here also the vast forests of dead poles weathered gray with time, bore silent witness to the completeness of the destruction.
About the middle of July while ferrying across the Hudson, I noticed north of the landing at Dyckman St., what appeared to be chestnut trees in bloom. On investigation, I found these to be living native chestnuts, of the peculiar strip type I shall describe later, and proceeding further north from this, where the Harlem enters the Hudson. I was led into a forest where I found at least 40 living chestnuts, some of which were in good condition, and one particularly was leafy nearly to the top. (Fig. 1) Naturally, one would immediately suspect that somehow these trees had escaped infection, but this could not possibly be the case, for mixed in with them on all sides were bare, weathered trunks showing signs of old worn cankers, proving incontestibly that the fungus had been present here also for a long period. Shortly afterward, Dr. Olive, of the Brooklyn Botanic Garden, informed me that he had seen living chestnuts near Hollis, L. I., and at Valley Stream, L. I., and at each of these places I found a group similar to that near the Harlem.
These, in brief, are the high spots of the survey from the point of view of the scientist. In addition, I covered adjacent region of New Jersey to the west, including the Watchung Mt. range about Plainfield and the Oranges; the Bronx and Van Cortland Park and the country to Yonkers and the north, and to the northeast of New Rochelle. Long Island, as far as Hempstead, was also included. Altogether I travelled about 1200 miles on foot, not counting the distance traversed on trolleys and railroads. Always armed with opera glasses, I was careful not to use them when anyone was looking, for on the second day of the survey I had been arrested on the charge of being a German spy! I was also arrested on board a train in New Jersey for looking earnestly at a topographic map, then sharply out of the car window and noting what I had seen (dead chestnut trees) on said map. The carrying of a botanist's tin can (containing fungi, not bombs) was also an additional implicating circumstance on the latter occasion.
What then were the results of the survey? They may be stated briefly as follows:
1. No immune trees were found.
2. For the most part the older trees (from 20 years upward) were entirely dead, and had been so for a long period, as attested by the bare trunks, weathered a characteristic gray color which only time can produce.
3. However, large numbers of seedlings and young saplings were located, both healthy and diseased.
4. The most important result was the finding of three well defined colonies of living mature trees; all of which, by virtue of characters to be presently described, are offering more or less resistance to the disease.
SEEDLING TREES
It is well known that seedlings and young saplings are naturally immune for a certain period, which varies in extent from 8 to 15 years beyond germination of the seed beginning, of course with the first formation of the seedling. Such immunity depends, however, not on any inherent characteristic, but on the fact that at this period the bark is usually smooth, sound, and free from wounds of any sort where Endothia spores and mycelium might enter. Of course, when wounded from any cause whatever during this period of youth, this immunity ends, so that the condition might perhaps be termed physical, in contrast to physiological immunity.
As I have already said, large numbers of seedlings, for the most part still unattacked, were found in many places in the area surveyed. There are of course no grounds for believing that such seedlings, descended as they are from non-resistant trees, are physiologically immune. Where they are free from disease, this exemption is due merely to the physical immunity I have just mentioned. Since they therefore represent non-resistant stock, they were used for comparative inoculation work, which will be referred to later.
I may as well say here as anywhere, that by resistance, I do not mean total resistance, for that would be immunity. There are, of course, degrees of resistance, in the plant world just as in the animal world. One person may resist a cold germ or the influenza bacillus better than another, that is, it will cause him only a little discomfort. Another person may not be affected at all, that is, he is totally resistant or immune. I say this because I have misunderstood when I have used the term resistance. The trees in the New York region show all grades of resistance, from individuals where the fungus makes very little headway in the bark, to cases where it grows almost as fast as in the average non-resistant tree.
CHARACTERISTICS OF THE RESISTANT TREES
What now are the characteristics of these resistant trees? How are we going to know one when we see it? I have outlined the leading features as follows:
1. BARK. In the case of this particular disease, it is obvious that the character of the bark is the most important feature since this fungus is primarily parasitic in the living cortex. In other words, the character of resistance must necessarily depend on the living cells of the cortex. Now, careful observation of the resistant trees reveals a most striking feature of the bark, namely its tendency to heal, by means of a callus growth around the margins of the lesions, whether large or small; and it is very apparent that this callus growth wards off the advance of the fungus for a time at least. When the callus growth is once formed, the fungus of the original canker encroaches on it very slowly, or often not at all. Inoculations in the callused margins of cankers showed usually only slight growth of the fungus after two months' time in the summer, or in some cases no growth at all. Several layers of wood could be counted underneath these callused margins—often 6 or 7—before reaching the annual ring exposed at the surface of the canker. This of course, shows unquestionably that the callus had remained healthy at that location for that period of time.
2. EXTENSION OF THE CALLUS TISSUE.—In many cases the callus tissue is of considerably greater extent than the normal area one would expect around a wound. It may even occur that the whole inner bark around the trunk is of a callused nature, without any open cankers showing at all. For example in a tree of which I have a photograph here (Figs. 2 and 4), the outer bark is sloughing off, revealing callused bark underneath of entirely different appearance, which no one would recognize as chestnut bark. This particular tree photographed represents an extreme in this respect. It seemed as if the whole tree was getting a new kind of bark, and yet this same character appears in all of the highly resistant trees. On cutting into this new callused inner bark it was found plentifully dotted with tiny Endothia lesions, which however, never penetrated deeply. (Fig 4). Close to the cambium the white inner bark is quite healthy, generally for a thickness of 5-7 mm. That the mycelium in the small lesions was unquestionably the Endothia mycelium, was shown by the appearance of the mycelium, and the presence of the Endothia pustules in many of the spots. That these were not late infections, but only slowly growing small lesions, was shown by inoculations in such bark, which revealed scarcely any growth after two months.
3. THE WHITE SECRETION.—The most striking peculiarity of the callus tissue, is its abundant content of a thickish, milky, white substance. This came to light immediately when I cut into the callus, and it showed up very clearly when I shaved off the outer layers of dead cork tissue. The white material is not evenly distributed through the irregular grain of the wound tissue, but is particularly abundant in small spots or pockets which are especially conspicuous in the callused margin of the lesion. Soon after exposure to the air the cut bark, and particularly the white substance, redden rapidly, indicating oxidation. This peculiarity is of course true of all chestnut bark, yet here the reddening seems to be deeper and more rapid than the normal. No chemical analysis has yet been made of this substance, but there is sufficient other evidence at hand to warrant a tentative statement that it is very rich in tannin or tannin compounds, and that possibly the quality of resistance is bound up with the nature of this material.
4. THE STRIP CONDITION.—Some of the trees showed the living bark restricted to a narrow, flattened, rope-like strip running up the trunk to one or a very few branches (Plate 1, Fig. 3). In these cases all of the bark was of the callus nature, rich in the resistant substance, and plentifully besprinkled with small Endothia lesions, while underneath were a number of layers of functioning wood. The rest of the trunk was bare, weathered gray, with traces on its surface of old cankers, and evidently dead for a long period. This type of tree was so commonly found that I have called it the strip tree.
INOCULATIONS
The very fact that these trees are now alive in this New York region is pretty good proof of their resistance. But of course the most conclusive test is by inoculation with the fungus in question. If the fungus grows slowly in these trees as compared with its growth on non-resistant stock, then no one can deny that they are resistant. I will not bore you with figures of tables, I will only give you the results. The average growth of the fungus in 289 inoculations on the resistant trees was about 1/3 as fast as on non-resistant stock, and taking the rate of growth on those trees which are especially resistant it is about 1/4 as fast as on the non-resistant stock. For non-resistant stock the seedlings on Staten Island were inoculated, and the growth on these tallied very closely with growth in non-resistant trees inoculated by Anderson and Rankin.[3]
Another very striking result brought out by the inoculation work was that of the 158 inoculations on branches and basal shoots of the resistant trees, only nine had been girdled after one month's growth, while in the same time 16 out of the 32 non-resistant Staten Island trees were girdled. At the end of the second month, the results were still more striking. Then, in the Staten Island trees, 22 out of 32 were girdled, while in the inoculations on the basal shoots and branches of resistant stock only 22 out of the 153 resulted in girdling. This striking difference was not due to smaller diameters of the Staten Island trees, for particular pains were taken to have them approximately equal to the branches and shoots inoculated in the resistant trees.
SUMMARY OF EVIDENCES OF RESISTANCE
We may summarize the evidences of resistance as follows:
1. The results of the inoculation tests show that the fungus grows in these trees on the average from 1/4 to 1/3 as fast as in ordinary chestnut.
2. The occurrence of the trees in a neighborhood long subjected to the disease, and their presence among the trees of individuals long since dead.
3. Indications of the long period the disease has been present in the trees themselves; such as bare weathered tops, and healed cankers.
4. Peculiarities of the bark; such as extensive development of the callus tissue, and the presence of a peculiar substance or white secretion which is particularly conspicuous in cases of marked resistance.
IS THE DISEASE RESISTANCE HERE AN HEREDITARY CHARACTER?
As to whether this disease resistance is an inherent character and will be transmitted from generation to generation, or is only the result of particularly favorable environmental conditions such as soil, light or moisture, is a point of great practical importance. I believe that further work will prove that the resistance is heritable, for the following reasons:
1. The resistance is not due to a particularly favorable environment of the trees, for the three groups grow in very different soils and under varying conditions of light and moisture.
2. The finding of the trees in colonies points to a genetic variation. At first I was unable to account for the grouping of the trees, for I had expected to find immune or resistant trees singly, here and there. But if we adopt the hypothesis of a heritable protoplasmic variation—something in their "blood," so to speak, the explanation is easy. We know that chestnut fruits or nuts do not travel far, like the seeds of willow, poplar, maple or ash, and therefore, in any given stand of chestnut, if we could go back from generation to generation into earlier time, most probably the majority of the trees would be found to have arisen from a common ancestor, although of course a few outsiders would have found their way into the group, carried by squirrels or other animals.
3. In a considerable number of cases all the members of the same group of coppice trunks from an old stump show a similar degree of resistance. To attribute such a condition as due merely to chance, occurring as often as it does, would be placing a pretty large burden on chance; and since the coppice trunks are all off-shoots of the same plant, the condition is what one would expect were the resistant quality in inherent character. A correspondence of degree of resistance was also noted, in the inoculations made on branches, trunk, and basal shoots of the same individual tree.
Experimental work is being carried on at Washington to test out the truth of this hypothesis, i. e. to see whether or not the disease resistance is really heritable. The work is being carried on in connection with the propagation of other resistant stock, Chinese, Japanese, etc.; and, as soon as the department is sure of the product, the results will be distributed to nut growers and others who are interested.
In the meantime we can all help by being on the lookout for resistant native trees. I believe they will be found in many places besides the New York region.
FOOTNOTES:
[1] Illustration for this paper will be found opposite page 64.
[2] Metcalf, Haven & Collins, J. Franklin. The Control of the Chestnut Bark Disease. Farmer's Bulletin—467, 1911, P. 5.
[3] Anderson, P. J. & Rankin, W. H., Endothia canker of chestnut. Cornell Univ. Agri. Expt. Sta. Bulletin 347, 1914.
EVENING SESSION
SANITARIUM GYMNASIUM, at 8:00 P.M.
President Reed in Chair
DR. J. H. KELLOGG: Ladies and Gentlemen: Battle Creek has the honor today and tomorrow to entertain the Northern Nut Growers' Association. This association with other associations having similar purposes, is undertaking to do, it seems to me, one of the most important things that can be done for the American people—to show us how we can get our nitrogen, our protein, and our fats without the livestock industry which is wasting at least nine-tenths of the grain, or in fact at least nineteen-twentieths of all our foodstuffs. The great cause of the high cost of living at the present time is that the pigs and the cattle are eating up our corn and other good things that we ought to eat ourselves. If we had a sufficient area of land, perhaps even the sides of our roadways and railways planted out to black walnuts and other good nut trees, we would have all the protein and fat we needed, perhaps as much as we are getting now, and more, and the cattle industry might be entirely dismissed from consideration, and a great deal of labor would be saved. I am sure that there is no place in the whole United States where this Association could have a heartier welcome than here in Battle Creek, or where people could be found who would appreciate its labors any more. You are going to have a very interesting program tonight. We are favored with visits from very distinguished gentlemen from all over the United States, among others Dr. Robert T. Morris, the nestor of American surgeons has come all the way from New York to tell us about some wonderful discoveries he has made, and a fatherless walnut tree he is cultivating, and other things that will be of great interest to us all I am sure. I take pleasure in introducing to you the president of this Association, Mr. W. C. Reed, of Vincennes, Indiana. Mr. Reed.
PRESIDENT REED: We are simply continuing our program. This afternoon we were in session at the Annex and moved over here this evening so as to be able to present what we have here so we could entertain more of you than we could over there to advantage. You know that most all men have a hobby along some line or other, and those who constitute our leaders, whom we have to look to, and along the line of nut trees of different species and so on, we have learned to look to Dr. Morris as one of the leaders. I have great pleasure in introducing to you Dr. Robert T. Morris, of New York, who will address you on the hickory.
NOTES ON THE HICKORIES
ROBERT T. MORRIS, M. D., NEW YORK CITY, N. Y.
When people speak of the "hickory" without qualification, they are apt to have in mind some one kind of hickory which belonged to their boyhood environment. All other kinds which they happened to know, were qualified in some way, very much as the word "fish" in Boston stands for the codfish only, other kinds of fish in the world being described by qualifying names. In the northeast the hickory means the shagbark. In Missouri it means the shellbark. Elsewhere the pignut and the mockernut are called "hickory." Interest in the subject has increased so rapidly of late years that we must all of us be more particular in our descriptions and add qualifying names, speaking always of the shagbark hickory, pecan hickory, or bitternut hickory as the case may be. Sargent describes fifteen species of hickory and in addition a large number of varieties by environment and by hybridization. There is a Mexican hickory, making sixteen species for the North American continent, and the late Mr. F. N. Meyer, Agricultural Explorer from Washington, has found a hickory in China. Previous to this discovery, it was believed that the hickories belonged to the North American continent only.
Botanists divide the hickories into two groups, Apocarya and Eucarya. For convenience in every day conversation, it might be well for us to speak of the "open-bud" group and the "closed bud" group. Apocarya or the "open bud" group, includes the pecan hickory, Carya pecan, the bitternut hickory, Carya cordiformis, the bitter pecan, Carya texana, the water hickory, Carya aquatica, the nutmeg hickory, Carya myristicaeformis, and the Chinese hickory, Carya cathayensis. The winter buds of this group will be seen on examination to show the minute, snugly curled-up leaves which are ready to burst forth when the springtime sun opens the fronds of the ferns which have forced their way through the hard ground with clenched fists. The scale buds in the open-bud group do not cover the tiny leaf forms completely.
In Eucarya, or the "closed-bud" group, stout scales close the bud completely against the snow and ice of wintry days, so that we see scales only when looking at the bud. The closed-bud hickories include the shagbark, Carya ovata, the Carolina hickory, Carya Carolinae-septentrionalis, the shellbark, Carya laciniosa, the mockernut, Carya alba, the smooth-bark hickory, Carya leiodermis, the pallid hickory, Carya pallida, the close-bark pignut, Carya glabra, the loose-bark pignut, Carya ovalis, the Florida hickory, Carya Floridana, the Buckley hickory, Carya Buckleyi, and the Mexican hickory, Carya Mexicana.
Hickories which have nuts with a bitter pellicle, all belong to the open-bud group. These are the bitternut, Texas hickory, and water hickory. Hickories with scaly bark are found in both groups. In the open-bud group, the trunk of the water hickory carries long loose bark strips attached by one end, and in the closed-bud group, we find this characteristic belonging to the shagbark, shellbark, Carolina hickory, and to one of the pignuts, Carya ovalis. That takes us to another occasion for a note. What do we mean by "pignut?" In the North, this term is applied to Carya glabra and Carya ovalis. In the South, it is applied to Carya cordiformis. A name so well established, will have to be retained, but in our Association it will perhaps be best to have an understanding about which one of the hickories the common name pignut should belong. So long as it already covers two species in the North as opposed to one in the South, there are already two votes to one in favor of retaining the name pignut for Carya glabra and Carya ovalis. We may describe these in plain language as the smooth-bark pignut and the loose-bark pignut. The reason for choosing the name "loose" instead of "scaly" is because we are pretty well agreed upon applying the name "scalybark" to the Carolina hickory, the name "shagbark" to Carya ovata, and the name shellbark to Carya laciniosa. The name bitternut may safely be allowed to remain with Carya cordiformis because the other two nuts with bitter pellicle already have distinctive names, Carya aquatica being called water hickory and Carya texana being called bitter pecan. By making fixed points in nomenclature in this way we may head off the confusion which will become worse confounded as the interest in hickories becomes rapidly enlarged, if our committee on nomenclature does not take some decisive step.
Concerning Latin nomenclature, we have further troubles for settlement. Hicoria is the oldest generic name and naturally should have priority but the Vienna Congress of Botanists adopted Carya. So far so good (or bad). Now comes our trouble in giving specific and varietal names. The binomial is clearly applicable enough for species, Carya pecan, for example, but when we come to varieties of the pecan there are two kinds of varieties to be considered, those by environment and those by hybridization. In cases of natural variation we are still within accepted resources in nomenclature by saying for example, Carya pecan, var, Stuartii. When naming hybrid varieties, however, I would suggest that in advance of the abbreviation "var", we place the abbreviation "hyb." thus reading for Brown's pecan, "Carya pecan, hyb. var. Brownii," instead of "Carya Brownii," which latter binomial would throw it among the species. In view of the fact that we are to have in the future hundreds of named hybrids, it seems to me that we must adopt some such definite method for convenience promptly. This method of naming, relates to convenience and is applied to the most evident parent. As a matter of fact, in horticultural circles we are doing precisely that sort of thing, speaking, for example, of "Brown's pecan" meaning a nut which we recognize as being a hybrid, brought to attention by Brown but with the pecan as parent most strongly in evidence.
When I was a boy, the only hickory nuts of any sort available, were those collected from wild trees. The popular boy was one who knew of some trees which furnished the best nuts and who did not keep the news to himself. The squirrels knew the best nuts as well as the boys did and they would go past many hickory trees along fences and groves in order to congregate in the ones which had the nuts with the thinnest shells and plumpest meats of best quality. In the early morning hours I have seen several squirrels in one particularly good hickory nut tree and not a single squirrel in a tree completely filled with nuts, though its branches touches those of the first one. Men are quite as intelligent as squirrels in some respects. Here and there attempts were made at propagating fine hickory trees of various species by planting nuts. It was not generally known at that time that the hickories were so thoroughly crossed like the apples, that they would not reproduce true to type from seed. Attempts were then made at grafting which were mostly failures for many years. We are now on the verge of a great development in hybridization or crossing of choice kinds of hickories and in determining upon which stocks the different kinds of selected hickories may be grown to best advantage. Hybrids between varieties of hickories occur frequently in nature and hybrids between species of hickories occur occasionally. A number of these accidental hybrids have been discovered and some of them are now being propagated. For the most part they do not represent the best quality of the best parent but it is a notable fact that the bitterness of kinds with the bitter pellicle appears to be a recessive character and disappears usually from hybrids between species in which one parent has a bitter nut. Unfortunately, the finer extractive which give character to the nut of the better parent are prone to disappear also. This is in line with our experience in mixing of characters along Mendelian lines. Given a sufficient number of hybrids and we shall have here and there one with spectacular characteristics of special value.
Now that horticulturists at the present moment are turning so freely toward the idea of producing quantities of hybrids artificially, the next generation will see hickory nuts which were not dreamed of in the days when I was a boy. The crossing of hickories is not difficult work. We simply remove the male flowers from branches carrying female flowers before the male flowers have begun to shed their pollen. The female flowers are then covered with oiled paper bags tied over them for protection and when the danger from self pollination has passed, we take off the bags and add a little pollen which we have kept for the purpose—pollen from some trees bearing remarkably valuable nuts.
Nuts resulting from this cross pollination when planted, give us new varieties of trees which never have been seen before by anybody and that is so interesting that very many people will probably take up hybridization as an incident in recreation. Some of the hybrids will bear very early in their history and others very late. If one is impatient to determine at once which ones are to be valuable, he can hurry the process by grafting a number of cuttings from young seedling trees into the tops of larger trees which are already bearing—labeling each graft, so that he may keep track of the seedling stock from which it came. It is possible to put one hundred or more seedlings in the top of some stock tree at one time.
One reason for delay in propagation by grafting is because the hickories like many other trees are slow in making repair of wounds. Grafts usually perished before being accepted by the stock under grafting methods that were in common use. The best step forward in grafting method for hickories is one that I obtained from Mr. J. F. Jones, Lancaster, Pennsylvania. He tells me that he obtained the method from its originator, Mr. E. A. Riehl, Godfrey, Illinois. This consisted in covering the entire graft, buds and all, with melted grafting wax and including also all of the wound and wrapping of the stock. The buds make their way through this grafting wax without any difficulty, but the grafting wax used by Mr. Jones contained lamp black and that used by Mr. Riehl consisted of a beeswax and rosin mixture. It was found that these seemed to be applicable in the North but not farther south in the hotter sun. Examining into the reasons for this, it seemed to me that in all probability the black grafting wax used by Mr. Jones and the brown or amber grafting wax used by Mr. Riehl, would naturally allow the heat rays of the sun to pass through to the graft while halting the actinic ray of light. The latter is extremely valuable for promoting the activity of chlorophyl, which acts only in the presence of light and in the best way in the best light. The heat rays might have certain destructive qualities. With this theoretical idea of the situation in mind, I employed melted paraffin in place of the grafting wax, covering the scions completely as well as the wound in the stock and the wrappings. This immediately proved to be a success. In fact, it appears to have changed the entire subject of grafting nut trees in such a way that any intelligent boy employing this method can now do better hickory nut grafting than would have been possible at the hands of an expert two years ago. The melted paraffin fills the interstices in which sap might collect and ferment, but at the same time, hardening so quickly that it does not introduce the danger of extension between points of contact with scion and stock. The second point of value consists in allowing the actinic ray in the sunlight to act upon the chlorophyl in bud and bark of the scion and it does not attract the destructive heat ray. This is perhaps the most important single point of value and due to the transparency of the paraffin. Third, the paraffin coating, impervious to air, maintains the sap tension equally in the course of fluctuation between negative and positive pressures occurring between night and day, and under varying conditions of light and temperature. This maintenance of equalised sap tension, I believe to be important. The paraffin is waterproof and prevents evaporation from the scion, which otherwise is prone to dry out before granulation of the wound has taken place in the hickories, as in other species which callus slowly. Fifth, under the paraffin coating of stock and scion, the plant apparently does not have that anxiety which would otherwise lead it to introduce the protective feature of superization, the spreading of a corky layer over the wound surface between stock and scion, thus introducing a mechanical obstacle to union.
This method of grafting has extended the grafting season for nearly two months, apparently. Formerly, I hurried to get all of the grafts in while buds were bursting, in early May. During the season of 1919 I grafted hickories up to August sixth experimentally. The last grafts which caught well in a practical way were put in on July twenty-first. After that the proportion of catches was small and the growth feeble. Incidentally, it may be remarked that filberts grafted as late as August sixth, did perfectly well. The scions employed were cut in late winter and kept in the sawdust of my icehouse. I formerly supposed that ice beneath the sawdust was important, but this year I could not get ice and the scions kept just as well. In July, experiments were tried with grafting directly from one tree to another, using wood of the season's growth. This worked well with hazels, but not with hickories or walnuts, only one out of many hickory grafts catching. That one, however, is significant and I hope to work out principles which will allow of direct grafting of hickories as readily as may be done with the hazels.
When a hickory graft is to be inserted into a small stock or branch, the ordinary cleft graft does well. In stock recipients much larger than the graft a side cleft of the width of the scion only is desirable, or better yet the "split bark" method devised by Mr. E. A. Riehl. A straight split is made in the bark of the end of the stock, and the graft crowded down into this split so that it remains between bark and wood finally. My own method for large stocks, is what I have called "the slot bark method." This consists in turning down a width of stock bark measuring the same as the scion in width. When the scion has been inserted into this slot so made, the bark is turned up over it again and fastened there. By this method I have put scions in the trunks of trees nearly a foot in diameter and at any chosen point, sometimes several feet below the ends of cut branches. One may cut off the top of a large hickory tree and then peg the trunk full of scions by means of bark slots.
Another important point in hickory propagation work consists in the employment of the Spanish windlass for fastening graft and stock together. The old time wrapping of twine or of raffia had to be released in order to allow growth at the point of union of scion and stock. When cord is used it cuts deeply into the new growth, and raffia, which is placed on flat, will be burst open. In either case new wrapping is required at a precarious time, according to old methods. The Spanish windlass, which is used in surgery for controlling haemorrage, seemed to me to be applicable for fastening scions in place. It consists in a paraffined cord with ends tied in a firm knot but hanging loosely about the graft and wound. A wooden skewer or any small lever, is then inserted into the loose loop of cord and twisted about until the part of the cord about the graft wound is so snug that it holds the scion in place more firmly than it can be held by any other sort of wrapping. In order to prevent the cord from cutting into the bark, two shields of wood or metal an inch in length, are interposed between cord and bark. The lever of the Spanish windlass is fastened with a cord or with a galvanized nail in order to prevent the windlass from unwinding and the whole covered with melted paraffin. This may remain in place for two seasons without change, holding the scion firmly in place all of that time and requiring no attention. The growing stock separates the two shields very much as it might separate two stones in the field and automatically unwinds the Spanish windlass by sheer force, just enough to allow growth without any unloosening of its holding apparatus.
In hickory grafting, much experimental work remains to be done in the choice of stocks for grafts of different species. Almost all of the hickories that have been grafted upon the pecan hickory stock, seem to do pretty well upon that stock, but the converse is not true. The pecan apparently does not do well as a rule when grafted upon other hickory stocks, even upon those of its cousins in the open-bud group. The shagbark hickory, in my experience, has done best upon stocks of the shagbark or mockernut or pignut. A number of years, however, are required in some cases for determining that point. Shagbarks which I have grafted upon bitternuts have sometimes made a remarkably good start. Then at the end of three or four years they begin to slow up, while shagbarks on shagbark stock, starting slowly at first, surpassed the ones on bitternut stock finally.
In the spring of 1919, I topworked two trees standing near together and of about the same size (thirty feet) with Beaver hybrid (a cross between the bitternut and the shagbark). One of the trees was a bitternut and the other a pignut. Almost everyone of the grafts of the Beaver grew thriftily on the bitternut. Those on the pignut stock practically all caught and made short growth and then began to wilt back. Finally, only one shoot remained alive. This very striking object lesson will have bearing in varying degrees in all of our hickory grafting. According to my experience to date, hybrid hickories are grafted more readily than are straight species or varieties. They seem to have lost family pride and seem to take up with any friend offering economic support. In the case just quoted, however, caprice was shown by the Beaver hybrid which took eagerly to a host of the species of one of its parents. It refused to thrive on the pignut which did not represent either one of its parents although that same pignut stock would have been accepted by shagbark scions—the shagbark representing the other parent of the Beaver. This sort of experience throws open the entire subject in such a large way as to show what possibilities of success and failure lie before us in experimental work. The same method of grafting, the paraffin windlass method, was employed for these two trees which were neighbors.
Interesting experimental work is to be done in finding the extent to which different species and varieties of hickories may be grown out of their indigenous range. At Stamford, the bitter pecan from Texas, appears to be perfectly hardy but it makes very slow growth—sometimes less than an inch in a year. The Buckley hickory also from Texas, grows thriftly at Stamford and so does the Carolina hickory Pecans from the northern belt thrive at Merribrooke, but those from the southern belt have such a long growing season, that their new wood is not yet sufficiently well lignified to stand the winter well. Some of them pull through a mild winter in fairly good order, but on the whole they do not thrive.
The commercial side of hickory raising, is being worked out for the pecan only at the present time. We may assume that several of the other species of hickory adapted to growing in the north, will equal pecans in importance, eventually. The reason for that is because some of the other hickories stand quite as high as the pecan in food value and general excellence. At the time of writing, low grade seedling shellbark nuts from the West are selling in the retail market in New York for forty cents a pound. I have seen better nuts of this species being loaded on the cars in Ohio at fifty cents a bushel. The present New York price, to be sure, represents a profiteering war price. Fine grades of shagbark hickories and some of the hybrids will command prices equally high with prices for best pecans in the market of to-morrow.
VOICE: Will it be practical to plant nuts, get young plants, and then bud or graft them?
DR. MORRIS: Yes, that is what we do. It is practical to plant nuts for the purpose of getting a stock, but not for the purpose of getting nuts. But we plant them in the nursery rows, and then when they are two years old, preferably (some like three-year-old trees), we graft them over to good kinds in the nursery row; then they remain there for a year or two, and are transferred or sold. We now have members of this association who are experts in grafting nut trees who make that a business. It is not generally known that we have in this country three journals devoted wholly to the subject of nut culture. We have nurserymen who make a specialty of grafted nut trees of the very best sorts, so that one may perhaps take up this mode of farming more profitably today than almost any other sort of farming. One gentleman in Pennsylvania told me he made thirty thousand dollars on one crop of chestnuts two years ago, cultivated chestnuts. He had thirty acres, and no tree was yet fourteen years of age. His net profit beyond all expenses was thirty thousand dollars that year. There are probably very few professional men who make more than that a year. Many men are making good, comfortable incomes out of their nut orchards. It is the best insurance against the needs of old age, the best sort of life insurance.
VOICE: Do you use anything besides the hickory as stock for grafting on?
DR. MORRIS: Yes, we have some experimenting to do in order to learn which stock will best serve for a certain variety. We find that one species or variety of hickory will accept other varieties of that species well, but perhaps it will not accept another species. We do know that certain kinds do remarkably well on certain stocks; but the entire range of that subject has not as yet been worked out.
QUESTION: Does the stock you graft on have any effect on the quality of the fruit?
DR. MORRIS: The stock on which you graft is supposed to have no effect at all on the quality of the fruit. But there are some exceptions. We learned that in orange grafting. A naval orange grafted on the wild orange stock might be raggy, not full of juice; while when grafted on the trifoliate orange stock might be heavy and full of juice. So in that case the stock did have some influence upon the graft; and there are other instances. But as a rule we assume that the stock has no influence upon the graft in regard to the validity of character.
QUESTION: Are pecans a variety of hickory?
DR. MORRIS: Yes, pecans are hickories. The Indians gave it the name of pekan. The French spelled it pecanne, so that has been spelled as the pecan, without the necessary other part of its name, hickory. We should always say pecan hickory—always.
DR. KELLOGG: Dr. Morris, how old hickories may be used for grafting?
DR. MORRIS: I have experimented with trees up to fifty years of age; but the most satisfactory work, perhaps, is done with trees that are not more than fifteen or twenty years of age and three or four or five inches in diameter. Those are the best trees to work with. If we cut off the limbs of a very old tree and try to top work it, it means an enormous amount of work on the part of the orchardist, more work than my employees like to give it. But one may topwork a tree of almost any age, preferably a tree less than twenty-five years of age; and by choice I should say trees not more than ten years of age. We have experts in the audience better qualified to speak on that subject than I am.
QUESTION: Do you prefer the melted paraffin to the old-fashioned way of using bees wax?
DR. MORRIS: The old-fashioned beeswax had a certain color, and the black wax with charcoal, with lampblack, both turned the light ray and allowed the heat ray to enter so that the amber of the old resin wax, and the black of the black wax both allowed damage to occur to the tree, in the South particularly, in a hot climate early in the summer, prevented our grafting in the summer because of the turning away of the light ray that was wanted and the absorption of the heat ray that was not wanted. The melted paraffin being perfectly transparent, allows the light ray to set the chlorophyl into activity. All the life processes of the tree are carried on under the influence of the green chlorophyl grains, and these work only in the presence of light.
QUESTION: Can you successfully graft a pecan on the pignut?
QUESTION: What is the best stock to graft pecan on?
DR.MORRIS: Pecan stock, I think. I do not think we have anything better. Mr. Reed and Mr. Jones are both experts in that field. They have grafted hundreds of thousands of trees.
PRESIDENT REED: I think the pecan is the best. The hickory will grow on the pecan very well, the shagbark hickory, but it will not do to change it with any degree of success.
DR. MORRIS: The shagbarks will grow fairly well on pecans, but the pecan not well on the shagbark. It is best I think to put shagbarks on shagbark or shellbark. But they do well on pignut. I have got some very good shagbarks on mockernut. On bitternut they grow fast, but at the end of eight or ten years are inclined to slow up. Shagbark can be put on, I suppose, ten other kinds of hickory, but the pecan can not.
QUESTION: How many grafts would be necessary on a nut tree twelve inches in diameter?
DR. MORRIS: I should say you would probably have to put in fifty. I would cut off the branches down to about two inches or an inch and a half in diameter, and that might leave fifty stubs to graft. Graft all of them, is one way to do it. Having done one that way, you will then become familiar with the entire subject.
QUESTION: What is the best time of year?
DR. MORRIS: I don't know. Some time ago the American Agriculturist said to its readers that there is disagreement about the best time for pruning peach trees. Let us hear from all our readers. So all of the readers wrote expressing their opinions, and the editor said, "Summing up all of the opinions, the entire testimony in the case, we have decided that the time to prune your peach tree is when your knife is sharp." I had always supposed that the best time for grafting was when the buds were first bursting in the spring, always held rigidly to that, and at that time of the year was in a great hurry. I dropped professional work and lost hundreds and even thousands of dollars in order to see this work go ahead; it is more interesting than professional work. And now this year, with this new method, I have grafted right straight on up to the first of August, and everything growing—deliberately, all through the summer. So that now, at the present moment I do not know. A year ago I could have told you. When I first graduated in medicine, I could answer any question in medicine. After forty years of surgery, I am puzzled over a great many questions. It is the same way regarding grafting.
QUESTION: In summer grafting do you remove the leaves from scions?
DR. MORRIS: In summer grafting I have used for the most part scions I have kept in the icebox in sawdust. I have formerly put in twenty or thirty tons in my icehouse for my family to use during the summer. Last winter we could not get any ice, and my scions were just as good kept in the sawdust as if we had had ice; and I grafted those scions in August and the grafts are living. I have also cut off the leaves in grafting, but that is new and you can not depend on it,—stop at one tree, cut off a piece of it, and put it on another tree and have it grow. I have never done that until this year, and it does not succeed in a very large percentage. It is not practical. It can be done—I have proven that; but it is not practical. The best way is to use your scions from last year that have been kept in cold storage in sawdust or leaves.
DR. KELLOGG: When should the scions be cut?
DR. MORRIS: There is some disagreement about that. Almost all scions may suffer a little winter injury. Some men prefer to cut in the early part of December before we have had any hard winter, then keep them in cold storage during the entire year, moderately moist, or protected in sand, leaves, or stratification. But I have always preferred February myself, cutting them the last of February before the buds begin to start, then put them in sawdust in the icehouse or cold storage, or bury them under a thick layer of leaves. For budding you transfer immediately. In fact, budding technically comes under the same physiologic principles as grafting. In budding I do that work in my place at Stamford, Conn., about the latter part of July or early August.
DR. KELLOGG: Do you use the same method in transferring buds?
DR. MORRIS: Yes, I fix them the same way as I do the graft and cover everything with paraffin. I have even had a little short side graft grow using this paraffin method, a graft two or three inches long.
DR. KELLOGG: Tell us about those fatherless walnuts.
DR. MORRIS: In the course of crossing the nut trees, we supposed, as a matter of course, that we must always have the pollen from one tree, or from a tree which bore the staminate or fertilizing flowers, in order to develop nuts or fruit of any sort; but on one occasion I covered a lot of Chinkapin female flowers with paper bags; I didn't have pollen enough to go around and left the bags on because I happened to be too lazy or too busy to pull them off. About a month later when I did take them off I found a full set of chinkapin nuts under those bags. They had received no pollen. That was an observation of a good deal of interest. It may have been that they had gone on by what we call parthenogenesis, and we had the children without the father, had the female parent only, the fatherless chinkapin. It sounds sad. I followed up the experiment with other nut trees, and found that not infrequently we may develop fatherless nuts. The effect will be, according to natural law, to intensify the characteristics of one parent. The female which bears this fruit, this child, without a father, will give to that child an intensification of her own characteristics. That will be the effect of parthenogenesis. That may be continued through several generations perhaps; we do not know. It is new, quite new. (Applause).
PRESIDENT REED: The next topic is the Digestibility of Nuts, by Mr. Cajorie, of Yale University.
THE NUTRITIVE VALUE OF NUTS
F. A. CAJORIE, YALE UNIVERSITY, NEW HAVEN, CONN.
Mr. President and members of the Northern Nut Growers' Association: It was with great pleasure that I accepted the invitation of your Association to be present at this convention and give a discussion of nuts and nut production, from the point of view of their nutritive or food value. During the last few years our knowledge of nutrition and the parts that individual foods may play in the diet has been greatly increased and in the light of the new discoveries, it is interesting and valuable to view the place that nuts hold. |
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