COFFEE JELLY.

Soak an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine in half-a-pint of water for an hour or more, dissolve it in a pint-and-a-half of boiling water with half-a-pound of sugar. Clear it with white of egg, and run through a jelly-bag as directed for making "a quart of brilliant jelly." This done, stir in a tablespoonful, or rather more if liked, of Allen and Hanbury's Cafe Vierge, which is a very fine essence of coffee. Or, instead of dissolving the Gelatine in water, use strong coffee.

COCOA JELLY.

Make half-a-pint of cocoa from the nibs, taking care to have it clear. Soak half-an-ounce of Nelson's Gelatine in half-a-pint of water; add a quarter of a pound of sugar, dissolve, and clear the jelly with the whites and shells of two eggs in the usual way. Flavour with Nelson's Essence of Vanilla after the jelly has been through the bag.

When a clear jelly is not required, the cocoa can be made of Schweitzer's Cocoatina, double the quantity required for a beverage being used. Mix this with half-an-ounce of Nelson's Gelatine and flavour with vanilla.

ORANGES FILLED WITH JELLY.

Cut a small round from the stalk end of each orange, and scoop out the inside. Throw the skins into cold water for an hour to harden them, drain, and when quite dry inside, half fill with pink jelly. Put in a cool place, and when the jelly is firm, fill up with pale jelly or blanc-mange; set aside again, and cut into quarters before serving. Arrange with a sprig of myrtle between each quarter. Use lemons instead of oranges if preferred.

ORANGE FRUIT JELLY.

Boil half-a-pound of lump sugar in a gill of water until melted. Stir in half-an-ounce of Nelson's Gelatine previously soaked in a gill of cold water; when it is dissolved beat a little, and let it stand until cold. Rub four lumps of sugar on the peel of two fine oranges, so as to get the full and delicate flavour; add this sugar with the juice of a lemon and sufficient orange juice strained to make half-a-pint to the above. Beat well together, and when on the point of setting, add the fruit of two oranges prepared as follows: Peel the oranges, cut away all the white you can without drawing the juice, divide the orange in quarters, take out seeds and all pith, and cut the quarters into three or four pieces. Mix these with the jelly, which at once put into a mould, allowing it to stand a few hours before turning out.

APPLE JELLY.

Take one pound of apples, peel them with a sharp knife, cut them in two, take out the core, and cut the fruit into small pieces. Place the apples in a stewpan, with three ounces of lump sugar, half-a-pint of water, a small teaspoonful of Nelson's Citric Acid, and six drops of Nelson's Essence of Lemon. Put the stewpan on the fire, and boil the apples till they are quite tender, stirring occasionally to prevent the fruit sticking to the bottom of the pan; or the apples can be steamed in a potato-steamer, afterwards adding lemon-juice and sugar. Soak an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine in a gill of cold water, dissolve it, and when the apples are cooked to a pulp, place a hair sieve over a basin and rub the apples through with a wooden spoon; stir the melted Gelatine into the apples, taking care that it is quite smoothly dissolved. If liked, colour part of the apples by stirring in half a spoonful of cochineal colouring.

Rinse a pint-and-a-half mould in boiling water, and then in cold water; ornament the bottom of the mould with pistachio nuts cut in small pieces, or preserved cherries, according to taste. When on the point of setting put the apples into the mould, and if any part of the apples are coloured, fill the mould alternately with layers of coloured and plain apples. Stand the mould aside in a cool place to set the apples, then turn out the jelly carefully on a dish, and send to table with cream whipped to a stiff froth.

LEMON SPONGE.

To an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine add one pint of cold water, let it stand for twenty minutes, then dissolve it over the fire, add the rind of two lemons thinly pared, three-quarters of a pound of lump sugar, and the juice of three lemons; boil all together two minutes, strain it and let it remain till nearly cold, then add the whites of two eggs well beaten, and whisk ten minutes, when it will become the consistence of sponge. Put it lightly into a glass dish immediately, leaving it in appearance as rocky as possible.

This favourite sweetmeat is also most easily and successfully made with Nelson's Lemon Sponge. Dissolve the contents of a tin in half-a-pint of boiling water, let it stand until it is on the point of setting, then whip it until very white and thick.

If any difficulty is experienced in getting the Lemon Sponge out of the tin, set it in a saucepan of boiling water for fifteen minutes. In cold weather also, should the sponge be slow in dissolving, put it in a stewpan with the boiling water and stir until dissolved; but do not boil it. It is waste of time to begin whipping until the sponge is on the point of setting. A gill of sherry may be added if liked, when the whipping of the sponge is nearly completed. Put the sponge into a mould rinsed with cold water. It will be ready for use in two or three hours. A very pretty effect is produced by ornamenting this snow-white sponge with preserved barberries, or cherries, and a little angelica cut into pieces to represent leaves.

STRENGTHENING JELLY.

Put one ounce each of sago, ground rice, pearl barley, and Nelson's Gelatine—previously soaked in cold water—into a saucepan, with two quarts of water; boil gently till the liquid is reduced one-half. Strain and set aside till wanted. A few spoonfuls of this jelly may be dissolved in broth, tea, or milk. It is nourishing and easily digested.

DUTCH FLUMMERY.

To an ounce and a half of Nelson's Patent Gelatine add a pint of cold water; let it steep, then pour it into a saucepan, with the rinds of three lemons or oranges; stir till the Gelatine is dissolved; beat the yolk of three eggs with a pint of good raisin or white wine, add the juice of the fruit, and three-quarters of a pound of lump sugar. Mix the whole well together, boil one minute, strain through muslin, stir occasionally till cold; then pour into moulds.

ASPIC JELLY.

Were it not for the trouble of making Aspic Jelly, it would be more generally used than it is, for it gives not only elegance but value to a number of cold dishes. We have now the means of making this with the greatest ease, rapidity, and cheapness. Soak an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine in a pint of cold water, dissolve it in a pint of boiling water, add a large teaspoonful of salt, a tablespoonful of French vinegar, and the contents of a tin of Nelson's Extract of Meat dissolved in a gill of boiling water. Wash the shell of an egg before breaking it, beat up white and shell to a strong froth, and stir into the aspic. Let it come slowly to the boil, and when it has boiled two minutes, let it stand for another two minutes, then strain through a flannel bag kept for the purpose. If a stiff aspic is required, use rather less water.

HOW TO MAKE A JELLY-BAG.

The very stout flannel called double-mill, used for ironing blankets, is a good material for a jelly-bag. Take care that the seam of the bag be stitched twice, to secure the jelly against unequal filtration. The bag may, of course, be made any size, but one of twelve or fourteen inches deep, and seven or eight across the mouth, will be sufficient for ordinary use. The most convenient way of using the bag is to tie it upon a hoop the exact size of the outside of its mouth, and to do this tape should be sewn round it at equal distances.

If there is no jelly-bag in a house, a good substitute may be made thus: Take a clean cloth folded over corner-ways, and sew it up one side, making it in the shape of a jelly-bag. Place two chairs back to back, then take the sewn-up cloth and hang it between the two chairs by pinning it open to the top bar of each chair. Place a basin underneath the bag. Here is another substitute: Turn a kitchen stool upside down, and tie a fine diaper broth napkin, previously rinsed in hot water, to the four legs, place a basin underneath and strain through the napkin.



CREAMS.

***

The careful housekeeper of modern times has been accustomed to class creams among the luxuries which can only be given on special occasions, both because they take so much time and trouble to make, and because the materials are expensive. It is, nevertheless, possible to have excellent creams made on a simple plan and at a moderate cost. Cream of a superior kind is now everywhere to be had in jars, condensed milk answers well, and by the use of Nelson's Gelatine, and any flavouring or syrup, excellent creams can be made. Our readers will find that the method of the following recipes is simple, the cost moderate, and the result satisfactory. A hint which, if acted on, will save time and trouble, may be given to inexperienced persons intending to make creams similar to Lemon Cream, which is light and frothy. Do not add the lemon-juice until the mixture of cream and lemon-juice is nearly cold, and do not commence whipping until it is on the point of setting.

Delicious and inexpensive creams can be made by dissolving any of Nelson's Tablet Jellies in half the quantity of water given in the directions for making the jelly, and adding cream, either plain or whipped, in the same way as directed for Orange Cream and Cherry Cream.

LEMON CREAM.

Soak an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine in half-a-pint of milk, dissolve it in a pint of boiling milk with a quarter of a pound of lump sugar. When nearly cold, add a gill of lemon-juice and whisk the cream until it is light and sponge-like. Then stir in a gill of whipped cream, put into a mould, and let it stand for two or three hours.

Or, dissolve a pint tablet of Nelson's Lemon Tablet Jelly in half-a-pint of hot water. When cool, add to it half-a-pint of cream, and whisk together until on the point of setting, when mould it.

STRAWBERRY CREAM.

Dissolve an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine, previously soaked in a gill of cold water, in a pint of hot milk. When it is so nearly cold as to be on the point of setting, add half-a-pint of strawberry syrup, and sufficient rose colouring to make it a delicate pink; whisk the cream until it is light and frothy, stir in lightly a gill of whipped cream, then mould it.

A good syrup can be made for this cream by putting half-a-pound of strawberry and half-a-pound of raspberry jam into half-a-pint of boiling water, and, after having well stirred it, rubbing it through a fine sieve. The syrup should not be too sweet, and the addition of the juice of one or two lemons, or a little citric acid, will be an advantage.

Creams, which have cochineal colouring in them, should not be put into tin moulds, as this metal turns them of a mauve shade. Breton's Rose Colouring is recommended, because it is prepared from vegetables, and is free from acid.

ORANGE CREAM.

Dissolve a pint tablet of Nelson's Orange Tablet Jelly in half-a-pint of hot water. When cool, mix with it half-a-pint of cream or milk, and whip together until the cream is on the point of setting.

IMITATION LEMON CREAM.

This will be found useful when cream is not to be had. Put the thin peel of two lemons into half-a-pint of boiling water, and when it has stood a little, dissolve half-a-pound of loaf sugar in it. When nearly cold, add three eggs, the yolks and whites well beaten together, and the juice of the lemons. Strain this into a stewpan, and stir until it is well thickened. After taking from the fire, stir occasionally until cold, then mix into it a quarter of an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine soaked and dissolved in half a gill of water, also nearly cold.

APRICOT CREAM.

Drain the juice from a tin of preserved apricots, add to it an equal quantity of water; make a syrup by boiling with this half-a-pound of lump sugar until it begins to thicken; then put in the apricots and simmer them gently for ten minutes. Drain away the syrup, and put both it and the fruit aside separately for use as directed.

Dissolve an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine, previously soaked, in a quart of boiling milk lightly sweetened, and, when at the point of setting, put a teacupful of it gently into a mould, then a layer of the apricots; wait a minute or two before putting in another cup of cream, then fill up the mould with alternate layers of fruit and cream. Let the cream stand some hours before turning out, and when it is on its dish pour round it the syrup of apricots.

PINEAPPLE CREAM.

Drain the syrup from a tin of pineapple, boil it down to half. Cut the best part of the pineapple into neat little squares, pound the remainder, which press through a strainer. Make a custard with half-a-pint of milk and three yolks of eggs. Measure the quantity of syrup and fruit juice, and dissolve Nelson's Gelatine in the proportion of half-an-ounce to a pint of it and custard together. Mix the gelatine with the custard, then put in the pieces of pineapple, and when it is cold the syrup, the juice, and two tablespoonfuls of whipped cream. Have ready a little of Nelson's Bottled Cherry or Port Wine Jelly melted in a fancy mould, which turn round so that it adheres to the sides, and when the first quantity is set, put in a little more. As the cream is on the point of setting, put it into the mould and allow it to stand until firm. When turned out, ornament the cream with the remainder of the bottled jelly lightly chopped.

PALACE CREAM.

Make a custard of three eggs and a pint-and-a-half of milk sweetened, when it is ready dissolve in it an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine, previously soaked in half-a-pint of milk. When made, the quantity of custard should be fully a pint-and-a-half, otherwise the cream may be too stiff. When the cream is cool, put a little into a mould, previously ornamented with glace cherries and little pieces of angelica to represent leaves. The fruit is all the better if soaked in a little brandy, as are the cakes, but milk can be used for these last. Put a portion of two ounces of sponge-cakes and one ounce of ratafias on the first layer of cream, keeping it well in the centre, and then fill up the mould with alternate layers of cakes and cream. When turned out, a little liqueur or any kind of syrup can be poured round the cream.

FRUIT CREAM.

Strain the juice from a bottle of raspberries and currants on to three-quarters of a pound of loaf sugar, boil up, then simmer for half-an-hour. Mix the fruit and a large tablespoonful of raspberry jam with the syrup, and rub it through a hair sieve. Dissolve Nelson's Gelatine, in the proportion of half-an-ounce to a pint of the fruit, in a little water, stir well together. When cold put it into a border mould, and as soon as it is firm turn out and fill the centre with a cream, which make with half-an-ounce of Nelson's Gelatine and three gills of milk, sweetened and flavoured with Nelson's Essence of Vanilla. Whisk until cool, when stir in a gill of whipped cream.

MANDARIN CREAM.

Dissolve half-an-ounce of Nelson's Gelatine, previously soaked in half-a-pint of cold milk, in half-a-pint of sweetened boiling milk or cream. Dissolve a pint bottle of Cherry Jelly as directed. When the last is on the point of setting put a layer into a mould, then a layer of the cream, each of these about an inch deep, and fill up the mould in this way. This quantity of material will make two handsome moulds, suitable for a supper party.

BLANC-MANGE.

To an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine add half-a-pint of new milk, let it soak for twenty minutes, boil two or three laurel leaves in a pint of cream and half-a-pint of milk; when boiling pour over the soaked gelatine, stir it till it dissolves, add four or five ounces of lump sugar and a little brandy if approved; strain it through muslin, stir occasionally till it thickens, and then put it into moulds.

SOLID SYLLABUB.

Soak an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine twenty minutes in three-quarters of a pint of water, add the juice and peel of two large lemons, a quarter of a pint of sherry, five or six ounces of lump sugar; boil the above two minutes, then pour upon it a pint of warm cream, stir it quickly till it boils, then strain and stir till it thickens, and pour it into moulds.

CHARLOTTE RUSSE.

Line a plain mould at the bottom and sides with sponge finger-biscuits, fill it with strawberry cream, or cream made as directed in the several recipes. If the weather is warm it will be necessary to place the Charlotte on ice for an hour or two, but in the winter it will turn out without this. The biscuits for a Charlotte Russe should be made quite straight, and in arranging them in the mould they should lap slightly one over the other.

BADEN-BADEN PUDDING.

Dissolve an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine, previously soaked in half-a-pint of cold milk, in a pint-and-a-half of boiling milk; when it is nearly cold stir into it an ounce of rice, well boiled or baked; flavour the pudding to taste, and when on the point of setting put it into a mould and let it stand for two or three hours; serve plain or with stewed fruit.

CHERRY CREAM.

Dissolve a pint tablet of Nelson's Cherry Tablet Jelly in half-a-pint of hot water. When cool, mix with it half-a-pint of cream or milk, and whip together until the cream is on the point of setting.

VELVET CREAM.

Soak three-quarters of an ounce of Nelson's Patent Gelatine in half-a-pint of sherry or raisin wine, then dissolve it over the fire, stirring all the time; rub the rinds of two lemons with six ounces of lump sugar, add this, with the juice, to the hot solution, which is then to be poured gently into a pint of cream; stir the whole until quite cold, and then put into moulds.

This can be made with a pint of boiling milk, in which an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine, previously soaked in half-a-pint of cold milk, has been dissolved, and flavoured and sweetened.

ITALIAN CREAM.

Take three-quarters of an ounce of Nelson's Patent Gelatine and steep it in half-a-pint of cold water; boil the rind of a lemon, pared thinly, in a pint of cream; add the juice of the lemon and three tablespoonfuls of raspberry or strawberry syrup to the soaked Gelatine; then pour the hot cream upon the above ingredients, gently stirring the while. Sweeten to taste, and add a drop or two of prepared cochineal. Whisk till the mixture is thick, then pour into moulds.

CHEESE AND MACARONI CREAM.

Boil two ounces of macaroni, in water slightly salted, until tender, when drain; cut it into tiny rings, and put it into a stewpan with half-a-pint of milk or cream, keeping it hot on the stove without boiling for half-an-hour. Soak and dissolve half-an-ounce of Nelson's Gelatine in half-a-pint of milk, and when this and the macaroni are cold, stir together, add two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, with salt and cayenne pepper to taste. Stir occasionally until the cream is on the point of setting, when mould it. Should the cream be absorbed by the macaroni, more must be added to bring the whole quantity of liquid to one pint. If preferred, rice well boiled or baked in milk, or vermicelli paste, can be substituted for the macaroni.

COFFEE CREAM.

Dissolve an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine, previously soaked in half-a-pint of cold milk, in a pint-and-a-half of boiling milk with two ounces of sugar; stir in sufficient strong Essence of Coffee to flavour it, and when on the point of setting put it into a mould.

CHOCOLATE CREAM.

Boil a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar in a pint of milk. Dissolve in it an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine, previously soaked in half-a-pint of cold milk, and stir into it three teaspoonfuls of Schweitzer's Cocoatina, dissolved in half-a-pint of boiling milk. Beat until on the point of setting, and put the cream into a mould. A few drops of Nelson's Essence of Vanilla can be added with advantage.

CHARTREUSE OF ORANGES.

Peel four or five oranges, carefully take out the divisions which put on a hair sieve in a cool place to drain all night. Melt a little Nelson's Bottled Orange Jelly, pour it into a saucer and dip in each piece of orange, which arrange in a close circle round the bottom of a small pudding-basin. Keep the thick part of the orange downwards in the first row, in the next put them the reverse way. Continue thus until the basin is covered. Pour in a little of the melted jelly, then of cream, made by mixing a quarter of an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine soaked and dissolved in a gill of milk, into a gill of rich cream, sweetened. Fill up the basin with alternate layers of jelly and cream, allowing each of these to set before the other is put in, making the jelly layers last. The Chartreuse will turn out easily if the jelly is gently pressed from the basin all round. Garnish with two colours of Nelson's Bottled Jelly lightly chopped.

FIG CREAM.

Preserved green figs are used for this cream—those of Fernando Rodrigues are excellent. Place the figs in a plain mould, and pour in gently, when on the point of setting, a cream made with a pint of cream and half-an-ounce of Nelson's Gelatine, and lightly sweetened. When the cream is turned out of the mould, pour round it the syrup in which the figs were preserved.

CHAMPAGNE CREAM.

Although this is properly a jelly, when well made it eats so rich that it is usually called cream. It is chiefly used in cases of illness, when it is desirable to administer champagne in the form of jelly. Soak half-an-ounce of Nelson's Gelatine in a gill of cold water, dissolve it in a stewpan with one or two ounces of sugar, according as the jelly is required sweet or otherwise. When cool, add three gills of champagne and two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice, whip until it is beginning to set and is light and frothy; put into a mould, and it will be ready for use in two hours, if put in a cold place.

ORANGE MOUSSE.

Rub the zest of the peel of two oranges on to a quarter of a pound of lump sugar, which boil with half-a-gill of water to a thick syrup. Beat the juice of three large oranges with two whole eggs, and having whisked them slightly, add the syrup and Nelson's Gelatine, dissolved, in the proportion of half-an-ounce to a pint of liquid. Whisk the mixture over a saucepan of hot water until it is warm, then place the basin in another with cold water and continue whisking until it is beginning to set, when put it into a fancy mould.

STRAWBERRY TRIFLE.

Put a layer of strawberry jam at the bottom of a trifle dish. Dissolve a half-pint tablet of Nelson's Raspberry Jelly, and when it is set break it up and strew it over the jam. Upon this lay sponge finger biscuits and ratafia cakes, and pour over just enough new milk to make them soft. Make a thick custard, flavoured with Nelson's Essence of Vanilla, and spread it over the cakes. Finally place on the top a handsome quantity of cream, whisked with a little powdered sugar and flavoured with vanilla.

WHIPPED CREAM.

To half-a-pint of cream put a tablespoonful of fine sifted sugar, add sufficient of any of Nelson's Essences to give it a delicate flavour. With a whisk or wire spoon, raise a froth on the cream, remove this as soon as it rises, put it on a fine hair, or, still better, lawn sieve; repeat this process until the cream is used up. Should the cream get thick in the whisking, add a very little cold water. Put the sieve containing the whisked cream in a basin and let it stand for some hours, which will allow it to become more solid and fit for such purposes as filling meringues.



CAKES.

***

The proper beating of the whites of the eggs is an important matter in cake-making. There are a number of machines for this purpose, which are in turn eagerly adopted by inexperienced persons; but for private use not one of them is comparable to hand-beating. When once the knack of beating eggs is acquired but little labour is needed to bring them to the right consistency; indeed, the most successful result is that which is the most rapidly attained. The whites of eggs for beating should be fresh, and should be carefully separated from the yolks by passing and repassing them in the two halves of the shell. It is best to beat the whites immediately they are broken, but if this is not possible, they must be kept in a cool place until wanted. If ice is at hand, it will be found advantageous to keep the eggs in it. In well-furnished kitchens a copper beating-bowl is provided; it should not be tinned, as contact with this metal will blacken the eggs; for this reason, the whisk, if of iron wire, should not be new. An earthenware bowl with circular bottom, and sufficiently large to admit of a good stroke in beating, answers the purpose perfectly well. A pinch of salt may be added to the whites, and if an inexperienced beater finds them assume a granulated appearance, a little lemon-juice will remedy it.

Begin by beating gently, increasing the pace as the egg thickens. As it is the air mixing with the albumen of the eggs which causes them to froth, it is necessary to beat them in a well-ventilated and cool place, so that they may absorb as much air as possible.

If these simple and important conditions are observed, the whites of a dozen eggs may be beaten to the strongest point, without fatigue to the operator, in five minutes. When the whites are properly beaten they should turn out of the bowl in one mass, and, after standing a little while, will not show signs of returning to their original state.

In order more easily to make cakes and biscuits into the composition of which almonds and cocoa-nut enter largely, manufacturers supply both of these pounded or desiccated. It is, however, preferable to prepare the former fresh, and much time and trouble may be saved in passing almonds through Kent's Combination Mincer, 199, High Holborn, instead of laboriously pounding them in a mortar. The result is, besides, more satisfactory, the paste being smoother than it can otherwise be made in domestic practice.

Cakes of the description for which we now give recipes cannot be made well unless the materials are properly prepared and thoroughly beaten. It is clear that if eggs are not beaten to such a consistency that they will bear the weight of the other ingredients, the result must be a heavy cake.

Currants for cakes, after they have been washed and picked, should be scalded, in order to swell them and make them more tender.

Put the currants into a basin, pour boiling water over them, cover the basin with a plate; after they have stood a minute, drain away the water and throw the fruit on a cloth to absorb the moisture. Put the currants on a dish or plate in a very cool oven, turning occasionally until thoroughly dry; dust a little flour over them, and they will be ready for use.

Castor sugar for cakes works more easily when it is fine. For superior cakes raw sugar will not answer.

POUND CAKE.

One pound fresh butter, one pound Vienna flour, six eggs (or seven, if small), one pound castor sugar, quarter of a pound almonds cut small, half-a-pound of currants or sultanas, three ounces of candied peel, a few drops of essence of ratafia.

The butter to be beaten to a cream. If it is hard warm the pan. Add the sugar gradually; next the eggs, which must previously be well beaten up; then sift in the flour; and, last of all, put in fruit, almonds, and flavouring.

This cake takes about half-an-hour to mix, as all the ingredients must be well beaten together with an iron spoon from left to right. Bake in small tins, for about forty minutes, in a moderate oven.

PLAIN POUND CAKE.

Half-a-pound of fresh butter, three eggs, one pound of Vienna flour, one pound of castor sugar, a quarter of a pound of almonds cut small, half-a-pound of currants, three ounces of candied peel, a few drops of essence of ratafia.

Beat the butter to a cream, from left to right, and mix in the sugar gradually. Beat the eggs up, and mix them with half-a-pint of new milk; stir into the butter; then add the flour; and, last of all, the fruit.

SAVOY SPONGE CAKE.

Beat half-a-pound of finely sifted sugar with the yolks of four eggs until you have a thick batter, stir in lightly six ounces of fine dry sifted flour, then the whites of the eggs beaten to a very strong froth. Have ready a tin which has been lightly buttered, and then covered with as much sifted sugar as will adhere to it. Pour in the cake mixture, taking care the tin is not more than half full, and bake for half-an-hour.

LEMON SAVOY SPONGE.

Half-a-pound of loaf sugar, rub some of the lumps on the peel of two lemons, so as to get all the flavour from them; dissolve the sugar in half a gill of boiling water; add the juice of the lemons, or one of them if a large size, and beat with the yolks of four eggs until very white and thick; stir in a quarter of a pound of fine flour, beat the whites of the eggs to a strong froth, and mix as thoroughly but as lightly as possible; butter and sift sugar over a mould, nearly fill it with cake mixture, and bake at dark yellow paper heat for thirty minutes.

MACAROONS.

Beat up a packet of Nelson's Albumen with three teaspoonfuls of cold water to a strong froth, mix in half-a-pound of finely-sifted sugar and two ounces each of pounded sweet and bitter almonds. Flour a baking-sheet, and lay on it sheets of wafer-paper, which can be bought at the confectioner's, and drop on to them at equal distances, a small piece of the paste. Bake in a moderate oven for ten minutes, or until the macaroons are crisp and of a golden colour. When done cut round the wafer-paper with a knife, and put the cakes on a sieve to dry.

In following recipes for this class of cake some judgment is required in the choice of the sugar, and the result will vary greatly according as this is of the right sort, or otherwise. A little more or less sugar may be required, and only practice can make perfect in this matter. As a general direction, it may be given that the sugar must be of the finest quality, and be very finely sifted, but not flour-like.

COCOA-NUT CAKES.

Beat up a packet of Nelson's Albumen with three teaspoonfuls of cold water to a strong froth, mix with it a quarter of a pound of finely sifted sugar, and two ounces of Edwards' Desiccated Cokernut. Put sheets of wafer-paper on a baking-tin, drop small pieces of the cake mixture on to it, keeping them in a rocky shape. Bake in a moderate oven for ten minutes, or until crisp.

CHOCOLATE CAKES.

Whisk a packet of Nelson's Albumen with three teaspoonfuls of cold water to the strongest possible froth, mix in half-a-pound of finely sifted sugar, two teaspoonfuls of Schweitzer's Cocoatina, and six drops of Nelson's Essence of Vanilla; sift paper thickly with sugar, and drop small teaspoonfuls of the mixture at equal distances on it, allowing space for the cakes to spread a little. Bake for ten minutes in a moderate oven.

COCOA-NUT ROCK.

Boil half-a-pound of loaf sugar in a gill of water until it is beginning to return again to sugar, when cool add a packet of Nelson's Albumen whisked to a strong froth with three teaspoonfuls of water, and stir in a quarter of a pound of Edwards' Desiccated Cokernut. Spread the mixture, not more than an inch thick, in a greased pudding-tin, and place in a cool oven to dry. When done cut in neat squares, and keep in tins in a cool, dry place.

SUGAR ICING.

No icing can be successfully done unless the sugar is of the finest kind, perfectly white, and so finely sifted as hardly to be distinguished by the eye from potato-flour. Such sugar can now generally be procured of the best grocers at a moderate price. The process of sifting the sugar at home is somewhat slow and troublesome, but by so doing a perfectly pure article is secured. After being crushed the sugar should be passed through sieves of varying fineness, and, finally, through one made for the purpose, or failing this, very fine muslin will answer. When the sugar has been sifted at home, and it is certain there is no admixture of any kind with it, a small quantity of "fecule de pommes de terre" (potato-flour) may be added; it reduces sweetness, and does not interfere with the result of the process. If the sugar is not sifted very fine a much longer time will be required to make the icing, and in the end it will not look so smooth as it ought to do. Confectioners use pyroligneous acid instead of lemon-juice, and there is no objection to it in small quantities. To make the icing, beat up a packet of Nelson's Albumen dissolved with three teaspoonfuls of cold water, work in by degrees one pound of fine icing sugar, adding a teaspoonful of lemon-juice or a few drops of pyroligneous acid, which will assist in keeping the icing white, or a slight tinge of stone-blue will have the same effect. If potato-flour is used, mix it thoroughly with the sugar before adding it to the white of egg. A little more or less sugar may be required, as the result is in great measure determined by the method of the operator; and when the paste is perfectly smooth, and will spread without running, it is fit for use. For icing large cakes confectioners use a stand which has a revolving board, so that cakes can conveniently be turned about; failing this, an ordinary board or inverted plate can be made to answer. As soon as the icing is spread on the cake it must be dried in an oven with the door open. It is sometimes found sufficient to keep the cake in a hot room for some hours. If too great heat is used the icing will crack.

ALMOND PASTE.

Blanch one pound of sweet and two ounces of bitter almonds, pound them in a mortar, adding a little rose-water as you go on, to prevent oiling; and when all the almonds are reduced to a perfectly smooth paste, mix them with an equal weight of icing sugar. Moisten the paste with a packet of Nelson's Albumen dissolved in three teaspoonfuls of cold water, and spread it evenly on the cake, allowing it to become dry and firm before spreading the icing over it. This paste can be used for making several kinds of cakes and sweetmeats, and without the Albumen can be kept in bottles for some time. Almond paste can be made from bitter almonds which have been infused in spirit to make an extract for flavouring, and in this case no sweet almonds will be required.



BEVERAGES.

***

Among the most useful preparations which have ever been introduced to the public for the immediate production of delicious beverages, are NELSON'S BOTTLED JELLIES. These beverages are highly approved for ordinary use at luncheon and dinner, as well as for afternoon and evening entertainments, and have a special value for invalids, as they contain nourishment and are at the same time very refreshing. When required for use, dissolve a bottle of the jelly, and mix with it five times its bulk of water, the beverage can then be used either hot or cold; if in standing it should be slightly thickened it will only be necessary briskly to stir it with a spoon. Lemon, orange, and cherry jelly, with the addition of water as directed, will be found superior to any other beverage of the kind, and specially excellent for children's parties.

The following "cups" are delicious made with the jelly as directed.

CLARET CUP, made merely with seltzer water, claret, and PORT WINE JELLY, will be found superior to the ordinary preparation. A little sugar may be added if desired. To a bottle of claret and a pint of seltzer-water use a half-pint bottle of PORT WINE JELLY, stir briskly until well mixed, put in a sprig of balm and borage, three thick slices of cucumber; place the vessel containing the claret cup covered over on ice for an hour; strain out the herbs before serving.

BADMINTON CUP is made with Burgundy, in the same way as the above, with the addition of a bottle of ORANGE JELLY.

CHAMPAGNE CUP requires equal quantities of the wine and seltzer-water, with a bottle of ORANGE JELLY.

CIDER CUP is made with a pint and a half of cider, a bottle of soda-water, and a bottle of either ORANGE, LEMON, or SHERRY JELLY.

CHERRY CUP.—Half-a-pint of claret, a quart of soda-water, and a half-pint bottle of CHERRY JELLY.

MULLED PORT WINE.

Dissolve a bottle of Port Wine Jelly and add to it four times its bulk of boiling water with a little nutmeg, and, if liked, a crushed clove.

LEMONADE.

Half-a-teaspoonful of Nelson's Citric Acid dissolved in a quart of water, with a sliced lemon and sweetened with sugar, forms a good lemonade, and is a cooling and refreshing drink. A small pinch of the Citric Acid dissolved in a tumbler of water with a little sugar and a pinch of bicarbonate of potash, makes an effervescing draught. These acidulated drinks are exceedingly useful for allaying thirst; and as refrigerants in feverish and inflammatory complaints they are invaluable.

LEMONADE (A NEW RECIPE).

Dissolve three-quarters of a pound of loaf sugar and the contents of a threepenny packet of Nelson's Citric Acid in a quart of boiling water; then add two quarts of fresh cold water and one-twelfth part of a bottle of Nelson's Essence of Lemon. The above quantity of sugar may be increased or decreased according to taste.

GINGERADE.

Crush an ounce of whole ginger, pour over it a quart of boiling water, cover the vessel, and let the infusion stand until cold. (The Extract of Ginger may be used in place of this infusion). Strain through flannel; add a teaspoonful of Nelson's Citric Acid, six drops of Nelson's Lemon Flavouring, and a quarter of a pound of lump sugar; stir until dissolved, and the Gingerade will be ready.

AN EXTRACT OF GINGER FOR FAMILY USE.

An Extract of Ginger made as follows is most useful for family purposes, and can be substituted for the infusion in Gingerade. Crush half-a-pound of fine whole ginger in the mortar, or cut into small pieces. Put into a bottle with half-a-pint of unsweetened gin, let it stand for a month, shaking it occasionally, then drain it off into another bottle, allowing it to stand until it has become clear, when it will be fit for use.

LEMON SYRUP.

Boil a pound of fine loaf sugar in a pint-and-a-half of water. Remove all scum as it rises, and continue boiling gently until the syrup begins to thicken and assumes a golden tinge, then add a pint of strained lemon-juice or a packet of Nelson's Citric Acid dissolved in water, and allow both to boil together for half-an-hour. Pour the syrup into a jug, to each pint add one-twelfth part of a bottle of Nelson's Essence of Lemon, and when cold bottle and cork well.

The juice of Seville oranges may be made into a syrup in the same way as that of lemons, or lemon and orange juice may be used in equal quantities. These syrups are useful for making summer drinks, and for invalids as lemonade or orangeade.

MILK BEVERAGE.

A very agreeable and useful beverage is made by dissolving a quarter of an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine in a pint of milk. A spoonful of cream can, if preferred, be used with a bottle of soda-water. For invalids, this beverage can be used instead of tea or coffee, and may be preferable in many cases on account of the nourishment it contains; it will also be found an excellent substitute, taken hot, for wine-whey, or posset, as a remedy for a cold. For summer use, Milk Beverage is delicious, and may be flavoured with raspberry or strawberry syrup. If on standing it should thicken, it will only be necessary briskly to beat it up with a spoon.

CITRIC ACID.

This acid exists in the juice of many fruits, such as the orange, currant, and quince, but especially in that of the lemon. It is chiefly made from the concentrated juice of lemons, imported from Sicily and Southern Italy, and which, after undergoing certain methods of preparation, yields the crystals termed Citric Acid. These crystals may be used for all the purposes for which lemon-juice is employed. In the manufacture of the Citric Acid now offered to the public by Messrs. G. Nelson, Dale, and Co., only the pure juice of the lemon is used.

ESSENCE OF LEMON.

This well-known essence is extracted from the little cells visible in the rind of lemons, by submitting raspings of the fruit to pressure. The greater portion of the oil of lemons sold in England is imported from Portugal, Italy, and France. It is very frequently adulterated with oil of turpentine. In order to present the public with a perfectly pure commodity, G. Nelson, Dale, and Co. import their Essence of Lemon direct from Sicily, and from a manufacturer in whom they have the fullest confidence.

Nelson's Essence of Lemon is sold in graduated bottles, eightpence each, each bottle containing sufficient for twelve quarts of jelly.



MACARONI, ETC.

***

We now give recipes for a few useful little dishes, chiefly of macaroni, which can be had at such a price as to bring it within the reach of all classes. English-made macaroni can be bought at fourpence, and even less, the pound, and the finest Italian at sixpence. The Naples, or pipe-macaroni, is the most useful for families, and the Genoa, or twisted, for high-class dishes. The English taste is in favour of macaroni boiled soft, and in order to make it so, many cooks soak it. But this is not correct, and it is not at all necessary to soak macaroni. If kept boiling in sufficient water, the macaroni requires no attention—ebullition prevents it sticking to the saucepan.

Although we give several ways of finishing macaroni, it is excellent when merely boiled in water with salt, as in the first recipe, eaten as an accompaniment to meat, or with stewed fruit.

MACARONI WITH CHEESE.

Throw a quarter of a pound of macaroni broken into pieces an inch long, into three pints of boiling water, with a large pinch of salt. The saucepan should be large, or the water will rise over when the macaroni boils fast, which it should do for twenty or twenty-five minutes. When done, strain the macaroni through a colander, put it back into the saucepan with an ounce of fresh butter, a small pinch of white pepper and of salt, if necessary, and shake it over the fire for a minute or two. Take the saucepan off the fire, and stir into the macaroni two ounces or more, if liked, of grated Parmesan cheese. Serve immediately with crisp dry toast, cut in neat pieces. If not convenient to use Parmesan, a mild dry English or American cheese will answer very well. Some cooks prefer, when the macaroni is boiled, to put a fourth part of it on to a hot dish, then to strew over it a fourth part of the grated cheese, and so on till all of both are used, cheese, of course, covering the top.

MACARONI CHEESE.

Boil and drain the macaroni, mix with a quarter of a pound an ounce of butter, and two ounces of grated cheese; pepper or cayenne pepper and salt to taste. Put the macaroni in a dish and strew over it sufficient grated cheese to cover it up, run a little dissolved butter over the top, and put it in the oven till it is a bright-yellow colour; serve quickly.

MACARONI WITH BACON.

Boil two ounces of streaky bacon, cut it into dice or mince it, stir it into a quarter of a pound of macaroni boiled as for macaroni cheese: if liked, add a few drops of vinegar, pepper, and salt, and serve very hot.

MACARONI WITH ONIONS.

Boil the macaroni as above, mix with it two or three onions sliced and fried a delicate brown, add a few spoonfuls of gravy, stir over the fire for a few minutes and serve.

STEWED MACARONI.

Throw a quarter of a pound of macaroni into three pints of boiling water with a teaspoonful of salt, and let it boil for twenty minutes. Drain in a colander, then put it into a stewpan with half a tin of Nelson's Extract of Meat dissolved in half-a-pint of water, and stir over the fire for five minutes. Take it off the fire and stir in one ounce of grated cheese, pepper and salt to taste.

MACARONI WITH TOMATOES.

Prepare the macaroni as in the above recipe, put it into a stewpan with a small piece of butter and a teacupful of tomato sauce, or a small bottle of conserve of tomatoes, and stir briskly over the fire for five minutes.

SWEET MACARONI.

Boil the macaroni as for the other dishes, but with only a pinch of salt, until tender, when drained put into a stewpan with a gill of milk to each two ounces, and two ounces of sifted lump sugar. Any flavouring may be used, but perhaps there is nothing better than grated lemon-peel, and for those who like it, powdered cinnamon or grated nutmeg. Stir over the fire until all the milk is absorbed; a little cream is, of course, an improvement. For those who do not like milk, the juice of a lemon, or a little sherry, may be substituted, and for a superior dish vanilla can be used for flavouring.

BOILED CHEESE.

Put four tablespoonfuls of beer into a small saucepan, shred into it a quarter of a pound of good new cheese, and stir briskly over the fire until all is dissolved and is on the point of boiling, then take it off instantly, for, if the cheese is allowed to boil, it will become tough. Have ready slices of toasted bread, spread the cheese on it, and serve as quickly as possible.

LES CANAPES AU PARMESAN.

Take the crumb of a French roll, cut it into rounds a quarter of an inch thick, put them into a wire frying-basket, immerse in hot fat, and crisp the bread instantly. Throw it on to paper, dry, and sprinkle over each piece a thick layer of grated Parmesan cheese, pepper, and salt. Put the canapes in a Dutch oven before a clear fire, just to melt the cheese, and serve immediately they are done.

RICE WITH PARMESAN CHEESE.

Boil a quarter of a pound of Patna rice in water with salt; drain it, toss it up in a stewpan with two ounces of fresh butter, and a pinch of cayenne pepper. Put a quarter of the rice on a hot dish, strew over it equally an ounce of grated Parmesan cheese, then put another portion of rice and cheese until all is used. Serve immediately.

SCALLOPED EGGS.

Take a cupful of finely-sifted bread-crumbs, moisten them with a little cold milk, cream, or gravy, and season nicely with pepper and salt. Put a thin layer of the moistened crumbs on a lightly-buttered dish, cut two hard eggs into slices, and dip each piece in very thick well-seasoned white sauce, or Nelson's Extract of Meat dissolved in a little water, so as to glaze the eggs. Having arranged the slices of egg neatly on the layer of moistened bread-crumbs, cover them with another layer of it, and on the top strew thickly some pale gold-coloured raspings. Bake in a moderate oven for ten minutes. If potatoes are liked, they make a nice substitute for bread-crumbs. Take some mashed potatoes, add to them a spoonful of cream or gravy, and proceed as with bread-crumbs. Serve gravy made of Nelson's Extract of Meat with this dish.

SCOTCH WOODCOCK.

Melt a small piece of butter the size of a nut in a stewpan, break into it two eggs, with a spoonful of milk or gravy, and pepper and salt, stir round quickly until the eggs begin to thicken, keep the yolks whole as long as you can. When finished, pour on to a buttered toast, to which has been added a little essence of anchovy or anchovy paste, and serve.

MUSHROOMS WITH CREAM SAUCE.

Dissolve two ounces of butter in a stewpan, mix in the yolks of two eggs lightly beaten, the juice of a lemon, and a pinch of pepper and salt, stir this over the fire until thickened. Have ready half-a-pint of plain butter sauce, and mix all gradually together, with a small tin of champignons, or about the same quantity of fresh mushrooms chopped and stewed gently for ten minutes in a little broth or milk. Stir them with the liquor in which they have stewed into the sauce, and let them stand for a few minutes, then spread the mixture on to neat slices of toasted bread. The sauce must be a good thickness, so that it will not run off the toast, and care must be taken in the first process not to oil the butter or make the sauce lumpy.

TO BOIL RICE (A BLACK MAN'S RECIPE).

As rice is so often badly cooked, we make no apology for giving the black man's celebrated recipe. Although he does not recommend a little salt in the water, we think that a small quantity should always be used, even when the rice has to be served as a sweet dish. "Wash him well, much wash in cold water, rice flour, make him stick. Water boil all ready, very fast. Shove him in; rice can't burn, water shake him too much. Boil quarter of an hour or little more. Rub one rice in thumb and finger; if all rub away him quite done. Put rice in colander, hot water run away. Pour cup of cold water on him, put back in saucepan, keep him covered near the fire, then rice all ready. Eat him up."

TO MINCE VEGETABLES.

Peel the onion or turnip, put it on the board, cut it first one way in slices, not quite through, lest it should fall to pieces, then cut it in slices the other way, which will produce long cubes. Finally turn the onion on its side and cut through, when it will fall into dice-like pieces. The inconvenience and sometimes positive pain caused to the eyes by mincing or chopping the onions on a board is thus obviated, and a large quantity can be quickly prepared in the above way.



HINTS ON HOUSEKEEPING.

***

How many people are crying, "How can we save? Where can we retrench? Shall the lot fall on the house-furnishing, or the garden, or the toilet, or the breakfast or the dinner table? Shall we do with one servant less, move into a cheaper neighbourhood, or into a smaller house? No, we cannot make any such great changes in our way of life. There are the boys and girls growing up; we must keep up appearances for their sakes. We remember the old proverb that, 'however bad it may be to be poor, it is much worse to look poor.'" Yet, although, for many reasons, it is often most difficult to retrench on a large scale, there are people who find it easier, for instance, to put down the carriage than to see that the small outgoings of housekeeping are more duly regulated. It is seldom, indeed, that a wife can assist her husband save by lightening his expenses by her prudence and economy. Too many husbands, nowadays, can vouch for the truth of the old saying, "A woman can throw out with a spoon faster than a man can throw in with a shovel." The prosperity of a middle-class home depends very much on what is saved, and the reason that this branch of a woman's business is so neglected is that it is very difficult and very troublesome.

"Take care of your pence and the pounds will take care of themselves," is a maxim that was much in use when we were young. Nowadays it is more fashionable to speak of this kind of thing as "penny wise and pound foolish." Looking to the outgoings of pence is voted slow work, and it is thought fine to show a languid indifference to small savings. "Such a fuss over a pennyworth of this or that, it's not worth while." Yes, but it is not that particular pennyworth which is alone in question, there is the principle involved—the great principle of thrift—which must underlie all good government. The heads of households little think of what evils they perpetuate when they shut their eyes to wasteful practices, because it is easier to bear the cost than to prevent waste.

The young servant trained under one careless how she uses, or rather misuses, that which is entrusted to her, carries in her turn the wasteful habits she has learned into another household, and trains others in a contempt for thrifty ways, until the knowledge of how to do things at once well and economically is entirely lost.

We often hear it urged that it is bad for the mind of a lady to be harassed by the petty details of small savings, and that if she can afford to let things go easily she should not be so harassed. But under no circumstances must any mistress of a household permit habitual waste in such matters. When the establishment is so large as to be to a great extent removed from the immediate supervision of the mistress, all she can do is to keep a careful watch over every item of expenditure, and by every means in her power to let her servants feel that it is to their interest as well as to her own to keep within due bounds. A good cook is always a good manager. She makes many a meal of what an inferior cook would waste. The housekeeper should therefore insist on having good cooking at a reasonable cost, and never keep a cook who does not make the most of everything. In a large household a mistress cannot look after the sifting of cinders, but she can check her coal bills, and by observation find out in what department the waste is going on. It may not be possible to pay periodical visits to the gas-meter to see if the tap is turned on to the full when such force is not necessary, but she can from quarter to quarter compare notes, or have fixed, where it is easy for her to get at it, one of the gas-regulators now in use. And thus, by the exercise of judicious control and supervision, the guiding mind of the mistress will make itself felt in every department of the household without any undue worry to herself. The mistress of a small household who has things more under her immediate control, and whose income, no less than her sense of moral obligation, obliges her to look carefully after the outgoings, need not be told what a trial it is to be constantly on the watch to prevent waste. Probably she is compelled to leave a certain quantity of stores for general use; indeed, we doubt very much if there is anything saved by the daily giving out of ounces and spoonfuls of groceries, for if a servant is disposed to be wasteful, she will be equally so with the small as the larger quantity.

What perpetual worry is caused by seeing how soap is left in the water until it is so soft as to have lost half its value! How many pence go in most households in that way every week, we wonder!

The scrubbing-brush also is left in water with the soap. A fairly good brush costs at least two shillings, and as one so treated only lasts half the proper time you may safely calculate that a shilling is soon wasted in that way. Brushes of all sorts are, as a rule, most carelessly used, and left about anyhow instead of being hung up. How much loss there is in a year in the careless use of knives and plate! Whenever possible both of these get into the hands of the cook. Her own tools from neglect or misuse have become blunt or worse, and she takes the best blade and the plated or silver spoon whenever she has a chance.

The plate gets thrown in a heap into an earthenware bowl to be bruised and scratched. The knives are either put insufficiently wiped through the cleaner, which is thus spoiled and made fit rather to dirty than clean knives, or they are left lying in hot water to have the handles loosened and discoloured.

Probably jars, tin boxes, and canisters are provided in sufficient quantity to put away and keep stores properly. But for all that, as it would seem in a most ingenious manner, loss and waste are contrived. Raw sugar is kept in the paper until it rots through it. Macaroni, rice, and such things are left a prey to mice or insects. The vinegar and sauce bottles stand without the corks. Delicate things, which soon lose their fine aroma, as tea, coffee, and spices, are kept in uncovered canisters: the lid is first left off, then mislaid. The treacle jar stands open for stray fingers and flies to disport themselves therein. Capers are put away uncovered with vinegar, and when next wanted are found to be mouldy. Perhaps the juice of a lemon has been used; the peel, instead of being preserved, is thrown away, or left lying about till valueless. Herbs, which should have been at once dried and sifted, are hid away in some corner to become flavourless and dirty, and so on with every kind of store and provision.

It is impossible to calculate how many pennies are lost daily, in a large number of houses, by the absolute waste of pieces of bread left to mould or thrown out because trouble to utilise them cannot be taken. Whoever thinks anything of the small quantities of good beer left in the jug; it is so much easier to throw it away than put it in a bottle? Or who will be at the trouble of boiling up that "drop" of milk, which, nevertheless, cost a penny, and would make, or help to make, a small pudding for the next day? Then, again, how many bits of fat and suet are lost because it is too much trouble to melt down the first, and preserve the other by very simple and effectual means?

Butter in summer is allowed to remain melting in the paper in which it is sent in, or perhaps it is put on a plate, to which some pennyworths of the costly stuff will stick and be lost. One would think it would be as easy at once to put it into cold salted water, if better means of cooling could not be used.

If we pause here, it is not because we have exhausted the list of things most woefully wasted, mainly from want of thought, but because we have not space to enumerate more of them. We can only add that the importance of small household savings cannot well be overrated, both because of the principle involved and because of the substantial sum they represent together. There is no need in any household for even a penny a day to be wasted; and yet if we look closely into things, how much money value is lost daily in some one or other of the ways we have mentioned. In the course of the year, the daily pennies mount up to many pounds, and we are sure that it is much safer once in a way lavishly to spend the shillings than to be habitually careless of the outgoings of the pence.

Although it is not necessary that the mistress of a household who can afford to keep servants should herself do the cooking, or spend much time in her kitchen, it is absolutely necessary that she should understand the best methods, and know how everything should be done.

Many people will say that it is unbecoming for women to be gourmands; we agree with them, and that it is equally unbecoming for men to be so. But to be a gourmet is another thing; and we ought not to lose sight of the fact that food eaten with real enjoyment and the satisfaction which accompanies a well-prepared meal, is greatly enhanced in value. Professor C. Voit has clearly pointed out, in his experiments and researches into diet, the great value of palatable food as nourishment, and how indispensable is a certain variety in our meals. "We think," he says, "we are only tickling the palate, and that it is nothing to the stomach and digestive organs whether food is agreeable to the palate or not, since they will digest it, if it is digestible at all. But it is not so indifferent after all, for the nerves of the tongue are connected with other nerves and with nerve-centres, so that the pleasure of the palate, or some pleasure, at any rate, even if it is only imagination, which can only originate in the central organ—the brain—often has an active effect on other organs. This is a matter of daily experience. Without the secretion of gastric juice the assimilation of nourishment would be impossible. If, therefore, some provocatives induce and increase certain sensations and useful processes, they are of essential value to health, and it is no bad economy to spend something on them."

It is surely somewhat singular that Englishwomen, who have excelled in almost every other craft, should be remarkable for their want of skill in cookery. They have not been dismayed by any difficulties in literature, art, or science, and yet how few are there among us who can make a dish of porridge like a Scotchwoman, or an omelette like a Frenchwoman! The fact would seem to be, that educated women having disdained to occupy themselves either theoretically or practically with cookery, those whose legitimate business it has been have become indifferent also. The whole aim of the modern British cook seems to be to save herself trouble, and she will give as much time and thought to finding out ways of doing things in a slovenly manner as would go to doing them properly.

No doubt cooks have often so much work of other kinds to do that they cannot give the necessary time to cooking. In a case of this kind, the mistress should herself give such help as she can, and bring up her daughters to help in the kitchen. People in middle-class life often expect the cook to do all the kitchen work, and frequently some of the house work. Of course, in small families, this is quite possible to be done, and it is always best for servants, as for other people, to be fully employed. But in large families it is impossible the cooking can be properly done, when the cook is harassed by so many other occupations. Thus, because it takes less time and attention than cooking smaller dishes, huge pieces of meat are roasted or boiled daily, and the leg-of-mutton style of dietary is perpetuated—declared to be the most economical, and, in short, the best for all the world.

Probably it is because bread and butter can be bought ready made, and involve no trouble, that they are held to be the chief necessaries of life in every English household. Some children almost live, if they do not thrive, on bread and butter. Thoughtless housekeepers think they have done their duty when they have seen that a sufficient supply of these articles has been sent in from the shops. When we insist that everyone should have home-baked bread, at once we shall be met with the "penny-wise" suggestion that home-baked bread costs more than baker's, because, being so nice, people eat more of it. Good bread, we need not say, is far more nourishing than that which is made from inferior materials or adulterated even with non-injurious substances for wheaten flour. Then all the other difficulties come to the fore: cook spoils the bakings, the oven is not suitable, and so on. To all these we answer: A good housekeeper, one who looks beyond the sum total of her weekly bills, who thinks no trouble too great to provide such food as will maintain the health of her family, will have home-baked bread.

There are other points in domestic management which do not receive the attention they deserve. Of these we may cite the use of labour-saving machines and of gas for cooking.

How often do we hear it said: "I always have such and such a thing done in that way, because it was my mother's way!"

This may be very nice and very natural, but it is nevertheless a sentimental reason. What should we think of a person who insisted on riding pillion, because her mother rode pillion? Yet, this really is pretty much the same thing as we see every day, when ladies are so wedded to old ways that they persist in employing the rough-and-ready implements of domestic use, the pattern whereof has been handed down from the Ark, instead of modern and scientific inventions which save both time and trouble. In no other department of the national life have the people been so slow to adopt simple machinery as in that of the household.

It is alleged, in the first place, that labour-saving machines are expensive; in the next place, that servants do not understand them, and that they are always getting out of order.

As to the first objection, we would say that as these machines—we speak only, of course, of really good machines—are made, not only with the object of saving labour, but material, the original cost of them is in a short time repaid. As regards the second objection, it seems incomprehensible that servants should not use with care and thoughtfulness machines, which not only save time and trouble, but greatly help in making their work perfect.

There is no doubt that by the more general adoption of machinery household work would be much lightened, and that if there were a demand for it, enterprise would be much stimulated, and many more useful helps would be produced. As it is, manufacturers hesitate to bring out new inventions at a great expense, when there is a doubt of securing the appreciation of the public.

Only the other day we were inquiring for a little machine we had seen years ago, and were told by the maker that, "like many other useful things, it had been shelved by the public, and ultimately lost."

Let us take the case of making bread at home. By the use of a little simple dough-mixing machine, supplied by Kent, 199, High Holborn, the operation is easy, quick, cleanly, and certain. We have had one of these in use for more than ten years, and during that time have never had a bad batch of bread. Not only in this machine do we make ten to eleven pounds of dough in five minutes, but the kneading is most perfectly done, and there is the great advantage of securing perfect cleanliness, the hands not being used at all in the process. Yet we do not suppose that any number of the people who have admired the bread have set up the machine. It cannot be the cost of the machine, as it is inconsiderable, which prevents its more general use, since in households where expense is not an object the primitive process is still in vogue.

Many people imagine that washing machines are only needed in large families where all the washing is got up at home. But, if ever so small or only an occasional wash is done, there is no exaggerating the comfort and advantage of a machine which washes, wrings, and mangles. So far from injuring linen, machines of the best kind wear it far less than rough hand labour, and with reasonable care it will be found that delicate fabrics are not split in the wringing by a good machine, as they so frequently are by the hand.

Then there is the case of the knife-cleaning machine. There are families who, instead of using one, employ a boy to ruin their knives by rubbing them on a board with Bath brick. They do so, they will tell you, "because machines wear out the knives." The slightest acquaintance with the mechanism of a good knife-cleaning machine should suffice to show that the brushes cannot wear out the knives, whereas the action of the board and brick is the most destructive that can be imagined. The objection of undue wear being disposed of, we are told that the machines soon get out of order, and are a constant expense. Of course, with careless usage anything will come to grief, but the fact remains that Kent, the leading manufacturer of knife-cleaners, has published a certificate from a lady who has had in constant use, for thirty years, one of his machines, which during that time has required no repairs. As to knives, we know of some which have been cleaned daily for twenty-five years in a machine, and are very little the worse for wear.

Dressmakers tell us that, but for the sewing machine, an elaborate style of trimming ladies' dresses would be impossible. We know that many inexpensive delicacies, which it is not practicable to have now because of the time and trouble they require, could easily be managed by the use of little articles of domestic machinery. For instance, take potted meat. There is the excellent Combination Mincer, also Kent's, by which this is rapidly and perfectly done, and which enables cooks to use up many scraps of material in a most acceptable way, and without the labour of the pestle and mortar. This machine, however, is but little known. It costs but a sovereign, is useful for all mincing purposes, and makes the best sausages in the world.

To make sausages properly, a machine must have an adjustment of the cutters by which the sinews of the meat and bits of skin are retained on them, as nothing is so unpleasant as to find these when eating the sausages. Thus it will be seen how necessary it is, in setting up machinery which should last a lifetime, to have the best inventions in the market. Not very long ago, a friend asked our opinion on the merits of the different makers of knife-cleaning machines. We explained to her the mechanism of the best of them, pointed out the superior workmanship, and that she should not grudge the money to have one which would do its work properly and be durable. Probably under the impression that "in the multitude of counsellors there is wisdom," our friend made further inquiries, and ended by buying a much-advertised machine which, she was assured, was better and cheaper than that of Kent, the original patentee. When she had the machine home, and calculated, together with the cost of carriage, her own expenses in going to London to choose it, she found that she had saved exactly eighteenpence, and then that her bargain would not clean the knives!

The prejudices which for a long time existed against cooking by gas have gradually cleared away now that improved stoves have been introduced, and the public have experience of its many advantages. There are yet some difficulties to be met in bringing gas into more general use, one of which, the high price charged for it, is beyond the control of the housekeeper, and another, that of teaching servants to be economical and careful in its use. When this last can be overcome, even with the first named drawback, gas will not be found more expensive than coal. The cost of wood, of sweeping the chimney, and the extra wear and tear occasioned by the soot, smoke, and dust of a coal fire, must be calculated in addition to the fuel itself.

It will be seen, when we say that the entire cooking for a small family having late dinners, bread baked, and much water heated, is done for something under 2 pounds a quarter, that gas as a fuel is not so great an extravagance after all. The stove used has the oven lined with a non-conducting substance, which has the advantage of keeping the heat within instead of sending it into the kitchen, as stoves made only of iron plates are apt to do. We have but space to add that the benefit to health, the cleanliness, the saving of time, labour, and temper, to say nothing of the superiority of cooking done by gas in such a stove as has been described, can only be fully appreciated by those who, like the writer, have had twenty years' experience of all these advantages.



NEW ZEALAND FROZEN MUTTON.

***

The high price at which meat has stood for some years has made it necessary for the working classes to restrict themselves to a scanty allowance of animal food, and this often of poor quality. The difficulty of providing joints of meat for their families has, indeed, also been felt severely by people who are comparatively well-to-do. Under these circumstances capitalists have thought it worth a considerable investment of money to discover some means of bringing the cheap and magnificent supplies of New Zealand into the English market. After many failures, success has at length crowned the enterprise, and nothing can exceed the perfection in which New Zealand mutton is now placed on the English market. It is universally admitted that the meat, both as respects its nutritive value and its flavour, is unsurpassed, while the price is very moderate. The same remarks apply to New Zealand lamb. It commences to arrive in January, and is in the height of its season when our English lamb is a luxury which can only be enjoyed by the few.

Nelson Brothers, Limited, stand foremost among the importers of this invaluable food supply. The mutton and lamb selected by them is of the highest quality, and their system of refrigeration is perfect. In summer these New Zealand meats have a great advantage over the home supply, as although in keeping they may lose colour, they remain good and sweet much longer than English-killed meat.

The Company have large refrigerating stores under Cannon Street Station capable of holding some 70,000 sheep, and have recently erected stores of treble that capacity at Nelson's Wharf, Commercial Road, Lambeth, wherein the latest improvements both as regards construction and refrigerating machinery have been adopted, in order to facilitate the development of the frozen meat trade.

NELSON BROTHERS have also Branch Offices at—

15a, RICHMOND STREET, LIVERPOOL. LEASE LANE, BIRMINGHAM. LAWNS LANE, LEEDS. THE ABATTOIRS, MANCHESTER. BALTIC CHAMBERS, NEWCASTLE-ON-TYNE. TRESILLIAN TERRACE, CARDIFF.

If any of our readers are anxious to try the meat, and are unable to procure it, a postcard to the Head Office, 15, Dowgate Hill, London, E.C., or to any of the Branch Offices, will at once put them in the way of carrying out their desire.

As it occasionally happens that from want of some little precaution New Zealand meat does not come to table in its best condition, we offer the following hints for the treatment of it:

Frozen mutton, like that which is freshly killed, requires to be hung a certain time—this is most essential to remember, otherwise the meat eats hard and tough—and it is important to observe, both when hanging and roasting, that it is so placed that the juice shall not run out of the cut end. Hind-quarters, haunches, and legs should be hung with the knuckle end downwards; loins and saddles by the flaps, thus giving them a horizontal position. The meat in winter should be kept in the kitchen some time before cooking, and after being exposed for a few minutes to a rapid heat in order to seal up and keep the gravy in the joint, it should be cooked rather slowly, thus taking a little more time than is usually given to English meat.



INDEX.

***

PAGE

ALBUMEN, 10

BEEF TEA, 12 " " as a solid, 15

BEVERAGES, 93 Badminton Cup, 94 Champagne Cup, 94 Cherry Cup, 94 Cider Cup, 94 Citric Acid, 97 Claret Cup, 93 Ginger, an Extract of, for family use, 95 Gingerade, 95 Lemon, Essence of, 97 " Syrup, 96 Lemonade, 94 " (a new recipe), 95 Milk, 96 Port Wine, Mulled, 94

BLANC-MANGE, 79

CAKES, 85 Almond Paste, 92 Chocolate, 90 Cocoa-nut, 89 " Rock, 90 Macaroons, 89 Pound, 87 " Plain, 87 Savoy Sponge, 88 " " Lemon, 88 Sugar Icing, 90

CITRIC ACID, 9

CREAMS, 74 Apricot, 76 Champagne, 83 Charlotte Russe, 79 Cheese and Macaroni, 81 Cherry, 80 Chocolate, 82 Coffee, 81 Fig, 83 Fruit, 78 Italian, 81 Lemon, 75 " Imitation, 76 Mandarin, 78 Orange, 76 " Mousse, 83 Oranges, Chartreuse of, 82 Palace, 77 Pineapple, 77 Strawberry, 75 " Trifle, 84 Syllabub, Solid, 79 Velvet, 80 Whipped, 84

ESSENCES— Almonds, 9 Lemon, 9 Vanilla, 9

EXTRACT OF MEAT, 10

FISH, LITTLE DISHES OF, 22 Cod Cutlets, 26 Eels, Collared, 30 Fish, Galantine of, 28 Herrings, Fried, 27 " Rolled, 27 Sole, Filleted, 24 " Fillets of, en Aspic, 29 " " Fried, 25 " " Sautes, 25 " " with Lobster, 25 " Fried, 23 Whiting, Baked, 26

FLUMMERY, DUTCH, 72

GELATINE, 13 " How to use, 64

HOUSEKEEPING, HINTS ON, 105

JELLIES, NELSON'S BOTTLED— Calf's Foot, 8 Cherry, 8 Lemon, 8 Orange, 8 Port, 8 Sherry, 8

JELLIES, TABLET, 8

JELLY-MAKING, ON, 61 Jelly, Apple, 69 " Aspic, 72 " Brilliant, 65 " Claret, 67 " Cocoa, 68 " Coffee, 68 " Economical, 65 " Orange Fruit, 69 " Oranges filled with, 69 " Ribbon, 66 " Strengthening, 71 " with Fruit, 66 Jelly-bag, how to make a, 73

JELLY-JUBES, 10

LEMON SPONGE, 9, 70

LOZENGES— Gelatine, 9 Licorice, 10

MACARONI, ETC., 98 Canapes au Parmesan, 101 Cheese, Boiled, 101 Eggs, Scalloped, 102 Macaroni Cheese, 99 " Stewed, 100 " Sweet, 100 " with Bacon, 99 " " Cheese, 98 " " Onions, 100 " " Tomatoes, 100 Mushrooms with Cream Sauce, 103 Rice, to Boil (a black man's recipe), 103 Rice with Parmesan Cheese, 101 Scotch Woodcock, 102 Vegetables, to Mince, 104

MEAT, LITTLE DISHES OF, 31 Brain Fritters, 35 Chicken, Brown Fricassee of, 42 Chicken Saute, 43 " in Aspic Jelly, 36 Croquettes, 44 Curry, Dry, 44 Kidneys, Broiled, 39 " Sautes, 37 " with Mushrooms, 38 " with Piccalilli, 39 Lamb's Fry, 40 " Sweetbreads, 41 Marrow Toast, 35 Meat Cakes a l'Italienne, 45 Mutton, Cold, Potted, 33 " Collops, 33 " Cutlets, 31 " Pies, 34 " Roulades of, 32 " Saute, 33 Ox Brain, 34 Pork Pie, Raised, 46 Potato Hash, 43 Sausages, Pork, 47 Veal a la Casserole, 41 Veal and Ham Pie, 47 Veal Cutlets in White Sauce, 37

MUTTON, NEW ZEALAND FROZEN, 119

PUDDINGS, 50 Apple Fool, 59 " Meringue, 60 Baden-Baden, 80 Brandy Sauce, 53 Cabinet, 53 Capital, The, 57 Cheesecake, Welsh, 58 Chocolate, 56 Cocoa-nut, 56 Compote of Apples with Fried Bread, 59 Compote of Prunes, 60 Custard, 50 Duchess of Fife's, 58 Fritters, Italian, 58 Jubilee, 55 Natal, 55 Omelet, Friar's, 58 " Souffle, 52 Pears, Stewed, with Rice, 60 Queen's, 56 Raspberry and Currant, 57 Souffle, 51 Sponge Souffle, 53 Vanilla Rusk, 54 Warwickshire, 54

SOUPS, 11, 14 Artichoke, Brown, 19 Beef and Onion, 14 Beef, Lentil, and Vegetable, 15 Beef, Pea, and Vegetable, 15 Glaze, 21 Gravy, 21 Hare, 17 Julienne, 16 Mulligatawny, 18 " Nelson's, 14 " Thin, 18 Rabbit, Brown; Clear, 17 Turtle, 19 " Mock, 21 Vermicelli, Clear, 16

TINNED MEATS, 12



***

CHARLES DICKENS AND EVANS, CRYSTAL PALACE PRESS.



For First Class Jellies

***

NELSON'S

OPAQUE GELATINE

SHOULD ALWAYS BE USED.

See Recipe, Page 65.

***

NELSON'S

TABLET JELLIES.

Orange, Lemon, Calf's Foot, Cherry, Raspberry, Vanilla, Apricot, Pear, Apple, Black Currant, Pine Apple, Noyeau, etc.

Quarts, 9d.; Pints, 6d.; Half-Pints, 3d.

***

WINE TABLET JELLIES.

Port, Sherry, Orange.

Pints only, 9d.

These new Jellies are perfectly pure and wholesome, and the flavours excellent, while their exceeding cheapness brings them within the reach of all classes.

***

G. NELSON, DALE, & CO., Ltd., 14, Dowgate Hill, London.



***

NELSON'S SOUPS.

These Soups are already thoroughly cooked and seasoned, and can be prepared for the table in a few minutes.

***

BEEF AND CARROTS.

BEEF AND CELERY.

BEEF AND ONIONS.

MULLIGATAWNY.

In Pint Packets, 6d. each.

***

BEEF, PEAS, AND VEGETABLES.

BEEF, LENTILS, AND VEGETABLES.

In Quart Packets, 6d. each.

***

Penny Packets of Soup for charitable purposes.

***

NELSON'S

EXTRACT OF MEAT,

FOR MAKING AND IMPROVING

SOUPS, GRAVIES, BEEF-TEA, etc., etc.

***

In Ounce Packets, 4d. each, and 1 lb. Tins, 5s. each.

NOTE.

One packet is sufficient for a Pint of Strong Soup.

***

G. NELSON, DALE, & CO., Ltd., 14, Dowgate Hill, London.



NOTICE.

***

On RECEIPT of POSTAL ORDER for 2/6

A BOX CONTAINING SAMPLES OF

NELSON'S SPECIALITIES

AND A COPY OF

"NELSON'S HOME COMFORTS,"

Will be sent, CARRIAGE PAID, to any address in the United Kingdom, by

G. NELSON, DALE, & CO., LIMITED,

14, Dowgate Hill, London, E.C.

***

May also be obtained through any Grocer at the same price.

***

N.B.—A Copy of "Home Comforts" will be sent, gratis, on receipt of Penny Postage Stamp.

***

G. NELSON, DALE, & CO, Ltd., 14, Dowgate Hill, London.

[Transcriber's Note:

Minor punctuation errors have been corrected without note.

The title page, originally following three pages of advertisements, has been moved to the beginning of the book.

The following corrections and changes were also made:

*p. 12: fibrine to fibrin (the fibrin of the meat)

*p. 17: entree italicized to match other instances

*p. 33: liitle to little (Season with a little pepper)

*p. 122, Index: em-dash added to end of JELLIES, NELSON'S BOTTLED to match similar entries

Inconsistencies in hyphenation (e.g. sugar-syrup vs. sugar syrup, overnight vs. over-night) and variant spellings (e.g. omelette vs. omelet) have not been corrected.

For the ASCII version, the degree symbol was changed to "deg." and the pound sign (preceding the digit) has been changed to the word "pounds" (succeeding the digit). Also, acute accents were removed from the following words: entree(s), Souffle, SOUFFLE, fricassee, Fricassee, FRICASSEE, puree, saute(s), Saute(s), SAUTE(S), Cafe, canapes, Canapes, CANAPES, fecule, glace, rechauffe, and grave accents removed from the words a and A (e.g. a l'Italienne, A LA CASSEROLE). Circumflexes in the word Compote were also removed.]

THE END