Mary, Queen of Scots, 387.

Mary's, St., Hall, Coventry, 250, 379.

Melito, Bishop of Sardis, book on Symbolism by, 333.

Middle Ages, 12, 23, 42, 73, 125, 137, 145, 168, 183, 202, 239, 242, 249, 273, 307, 315.

Mitre at Milan, 211; of St. Thomas a Becket, 321, 369.

Monks of St. Florent, Saumur, 242; of Cluny, 242; of Fleury, 242; in England, 249; of St. Alban's, 251.

Monuments, 373.

Morris, William, 290.

Mosaics, 40, 300, 314; Empress Theodora's dress figured in, 41, 93; of Sta. Pudenziana, 306, 317; early Christian, 314; in Sta. Maria Maggiore, 117, 322.

Mummy-wrappings, 21.

Museum, Cluny, 247, 275, 277; at Boulac, 56.

Muslin, 139.

Mycenae, tomb of Agamemnon at, 19; lion's gate of, 304.

Needle, the first, 14, 357; bronze, steel, 195, 213; bone, 358.

Nimroud, 24.

Nineteenth century, style of, 49, 339.

Normans, 366.

Northumberland House, tapestries at, 257.

Nunneries, 10.

Opus Alexandrinum, 117.

Opus Anglicanum, 325, 376.

Orange, 187.

Order, 59.

Oriental work, 392.

Orphrey, 368-9.

Oudenarde "hallings" or "salles," 252.

Painting, 4.

Palermo, silk-weaving at, 165, 307.

Pall of Alexander, 142; at Dunstable, 251, 378; of London Companies, 329, 379.

Pamphile silk-weaver, 152.

Panels, 69, 79.

Patchwork, 117; applique, 214, 325, 392.

Patterns, 82-117; wave, 62, 114; key, 63, 97; Oriental, 84, 99; lotus, 89, 102; animal, 93; lily, 95; rose, 95; palm leaf on shawl, 96; sacred hom, 99; pine-apple, 100; honeysuckle, 101; egg and tongue, 102; cross, 103; crenelated, 104; Renaissance, 108; cloud, 109, 338; fundata or netted, 109; wheel, 110; Moorish, 110; Sicilian, 111; shell, 112; Indian balcony, 112; chrysoclavus or palmated, 113; wicker and lattice-work, 113; bead, 114; daisy, 114; geometrical, 115; German and Venetian books of, 206; feather, 208; Persian, 241; check, 270; metal-work, 325; Roes, or wheel and plate, 336-7; Indian dimity, 394.

Peacocks, 163, 211; feathers, 376.

Pearls, 332, 362, 383, 389.

Pectineum, 235.

Penates, 291.

Penelope, bridal couch of, 281.

Peplos of Athene, 32.

Pere Labbe, 242.

Persian carpets, 23, 73, 98, 132, 241, 266, 271; rugs, 94; silks, 153.

Perspective, 70.

Peter's, St., Rome, 346.

Pheidias, 59.

Phoenicians, 7, 21, 125, 176, 357; bowls from Cyprus, 109.

Phrygium, 202.

Pictorial art, 79, 331.

Plateresque, 45.

Plumarii, 207, 212.

Plush, 221.

Pluvial of St. Silvester, 319; at Bologna, 320; at Aix, 351; Daroca, 376.

Polymita, 87.

Pompeii, 269.

Portraits of Charles V., 295; of Richard II. at Wilton House, 372; of fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, 379; in needlework in reign of James I., 388.

Portuguese silks, 394.

Progression, 64.

Proportion, 64, 291.

Pulvinarium, 204.

Purl, 387.

Purple, 187.

Queen Anne, style in reign of, 46, 49, 88, 391, 394.

Queen Elizabeth, embroidery of, 385-6; style in reign of, 389.

Queen Mary of Hungary, 330.

Queen Matilda, 367.

Radiation, 67.

Raphael, 44, 245; cartoons of, 255.

Renaissance, 26, 43, 45, 75, 108, 308, 329, 380, 383.

Repetition, 62.

Reredos at St. Alban's, 249, 347; of Vintners' Company, 251.

Richard Coeur de Lion, 374.

Robes of Julius Caesar, 153; of Childeric, 144; of Bishop Adhelme, 361; of St. Thomas a Becket, 369.

Roger, King of Sicily, transports silk-weavers from Greece, 161.

Roman silks, 160; fashions, 299.

Romanesque, 36, 306, 323, 362, 364.

Roses, Wars of, 371, 372-3, 378.

Rugs, 285.

Runic art, 29, 306.

Samit, 145.

Sampler of Henry VII.'s reign, 379-80.

Saracenicum, 240.

Satin, 161, 170; of Bruges, 171.

Scarlet, 182, 187, 189.

School of Art Needlework, South Kensington, 219, 288, 392; rise of, 396-7; list of work executed at, 398; designs for, 398.

Schools, branch of Art Needlework, 397.

Screens, 261, 287.

Sculptures, 4, 353.

Seam, 198.

Seres, 154, 160.

Seventh century work, 361-2.

Sewing, plain, 197.

Shells, 88, 124, 190.

Sicilian patterns, 111; embroideries, 124; textile designs, 162, 341; silk manufactures, 168; fabrics, 315; ecclesiastical designs, 331.

Sicily, textile art in, 41, 307.

Si-ling-chi, Empress, inventor of unwinding the cocoon, 156.

Silk, origin of, 151; first woven by Pamphile at Cos, 300 B.C., 152; Roman and Chinese, 153, 160; trade in, 153; in cocoon, 153, 156; wild silk in China, 154-5; attire mentioned in Latin poets, 157; silken robes sold by Marcus Aurelius, 158; garments given by Emperor Carinus, 158; edict of Diocletian, with prices of articles, 159; silk mentioned by poets and historians from first to sixth century, 159; silkworm, 159; monopoly of silk manufactures in Constantinople, 159; first allusion to use of silk in Christian Church, 160; palls of silk brought from Rome, A.D. 685, 160; Bede's remains wrapped in silk, 160; specimens of silk in Auberville's "Tissus," silk tissues called "Imperial," 161.

Silk-weavers, Jewish, at Thebes in 1161, 161; transported by Roger, King of Sicily, from Greece to Palermo, 161, 165; description of Royal manufactory at Palermo, by Hugh Falcandus, twelfth century, 161; three periods in Sicily, 162-3; Saracenic, in India, 166-7; Italian, in Lyons, 1450, 167, 169; Spanish at Malaga and Almeria, 168; in Hungary under Queen Gisela, 169; in the Flemish towns, 170; Asiatic, 170.

Smock of Mary Tudor, 385.

Society of Arts, Birmingham, 292.

Sofas, 285.

Spangles, 146.

Spanish Armada, hangings, 253.

Sphinx, 265.

Spinning, 357.

Stamford, Arras woven at, 256, 257.

Stitches, 194-259; lists of, 196; gold, 203; mosaic, 204; cushion, 204; plumage, 207; satin, 214; sampler, 234; ecclesiastical, 345; stem, 214.

Stole, 308; at Durham, 364; of Aelfled, Queen of Edward II., 364.

Style, 14-53.

Sun-cross, Egyptian, 337.

Sunflower, 91; radiated pattern of, 111.

Surcoat of Black Prince, 373.

Swastika, 103.

Symbolism, 59, 95, 98, 307, 333, 334-5, 352.

Symmetry, 63-4.

Table covers, 287.

Tanaquil, robes worked by, 129.

Tapestry, 235-259; in British Museum, 236; woven, 237; of Charles, Duke of Burgundy, 243; Gobelins, 237; Arras, 238; Saracenic, 240; at Brussels, 245; French, 245; Italian, 245; English, 248, 277; revival of, at Windsor, 257; in Cluny Museum, 277.

Taste, 52; Oriental, 388.

Tau, 335.

Tent, funeral, of an Egyptian queen, 25, 215; of Antar, 263; of Nadir Shah, 263; of Alexander, 264; of Ptolemy Philadelphus, 264-5; Persian, 265.

Textile art, 45, 59, 74, 77, 93, 104, 107, 174, 176, 187, 205, 307, 310.

Thebes, silk-weavers of, 161.

"Tissus" of Auberville, 160.

Titian, 178.

Toga, 338.

Tomb of Agamemnon, 19; of Rameses, 20; of warrior at Kuban, 129; in Crimea, 130, 217; Anglo-Saxon, 144; of St. Cuthbert at Durham, 163.

Trabea, 309, 337.

Tree of Life, 336.

Triptych in Cluny Museum, 211; at Zurich, 328.

Tyrian purple, 180, 289.

Ulysses, 281.

Vatican, Etruscan gold ornament, 21, 295, 300.

Veil of Temple, 22; classical, 261, 265, 311, 312; for pyx, 350; of Hebrew sanctuary, 311, 351.

Velvet, 76, 345, 347; stoles, 161, 172, 221; pall, 378.

Venetian red, 289; style, 306.

Vestments, 313, 326; Italian, 329; Spanish, 331; modern, 343; set presented to Romsey and Croyland by Canute, 366, 370; set bequeathed to Westminster Abbey by Henry VII., 379.

Watteau, school of, 248.

Welby, Lady, founder of School of Art Needlework, South Kensington, 396.

Wiglaf, King, 362.

William and Mary, 393.

Wilton carpet works, 190.

Windsor, 257, 398.

Wool, 125, 127, 130; Berlin, 395.

Worcester, dress in tomb of Walter de Cantilupe, 320; cope of William of Blois, 322; tomb of King John, 373.

Workhouse sheeting, 140.

Wroxton House, Arras at, 256.

York, Archbishop of, Arras with design of the Four Seasons, 255.

Zoroaster, 101.



ERRATA.

Page xv, line 27, for Albert Castet read Albert Castel. " 10, " 24, read as that of an important factor. " 17, " 22, for slow read swift. " 26, " 16, for art read artistic. " 42, " 16, for are read were. " 56, " 5, read advance of them, in the earliest. " 66, " 21, for we read I. " 75, " 20, for These read Those. " 101, " 18, for from Cervetri, in Southern Italy, read from a tomb at Chiusi, in Etruria. " 156, " 8, for Chin read Chan. " 195, " 20, for 6, 7. Bone needles from Neolithic cave-man's grave, read 6. Cave-man's needle from the Pinhole, Churchfield, Ereswell Crag. 7. Bone needle from La Madeleine, Dordogne. " 198, " 5, footnote, for act read art. " 208, " 3, footnote, for "Arte Plumarii" read "Arte Plumaria." " 237, " 8, for which prove read proving. " 239, " 17, delete " after of art." " " " 18, insert " after backwards. " 242, " 9, for in the Crimea read at Chiusi.



Transcriber's Note

Page 202—the marker for footnote 2 was missing in the original. The transcriber has estimated where it should have been, based on the text and reference material therein.

Page 303 includes an excerpt from Psalm 45, with quoted verse numbers of 10, 14 and 15. These should be verses 9, 13 and 14.

Archaic spelling is preserved as printed. Variable spelling, hyphenation and use of accents has been made consistent where there was a clear prevalence of one form over the other, or with reference to reliable sources; otherwise, these are preserved as printed. Typographic errors, e.g. omitted, superfluous or transposed letters, and punctuation errors have been repaired. Other amendments are as follows:

Plate 71—precipit amended to precepit and omitted word 'pio' added—"... Aelfled fieri precepit pio Episcopo Fridestano."

Page xx—3 amended to 9—"From Layard's "Monuments," Series i. pl. 9."

Page xxi—Edward amended to Richard—"6. Badge of Richard II."

Page xxii—John amended to Mark—"ST. MARK. Anglo-Saxon Book of the Gospels."

Page 115—5. removed from beginning of section title, for consistency with others in that chapter, "GEOMETRICAL."

Page 197—Encyclopedia amended to Cyclopaedia—"The second list is from Rees' "Cyclopaedia" (Stitches), 1819 ..."

Page 311—des Antiquites amended to Royale des Antiquaires—""... par la Societe Royale des Antiquaires du Nord" ..."

Page 316—Lwewelig amended to Wledig—"... and in the Welsh ballad of "The Dream of Maxen Wledig" ..."

Page 316, footnote 502—Pallison's amended to Palliser's—"See Mrs. Palliser's "Lace," p. 4."

Page 320—T. amended to I.—"... (see Hon. and Rev. I. Clifford's list of embroideries in Appendix 5)."

Page 331—Riario amended to Riano—"Don Juan F. Riano[533] says that Toledo is a perfect museum ..."

Page 331, footnote 533—Riario amended to Riano—"See "The Industrial Arts of Spain," pp. 250-264, by Don Juan F. Riano, ..."

Page 417—350 amended to 348—"Design, ... floral, 71, 345, 348; ..."

Page 417—210 amended to 109—"Embroideries, ... Egyptian, 93, 114, 130, 134, 209, 236, 271; ..."

Page 419—47 amended to 46 and 308 amended to 276—"Louis XIV., 46, 247, 276, 332, 393."

Page 419—167 amended to 93—"Mosaics, ... Empress Theodora's dress figured in, 41, 93; ..."

Page 419—306 amended to 117—"Mosaics, ... in Sta. Maria Maggiore, 117, 322."

Page 420—index entries for 'Pall' and 'Pamphile,' which originally followed the entry for 'Pattern,' have been moved to their correct places.

Page 421—399 amended to 345—"Stitches, ... ecclesiastical, 345; ..."

There are a number of discrepancies between the information in the list of illustrations (LOI) and the information on the plates themselves. Some of these are simple omission, others involve conflicting information. The transcriber has resolved and repaired some of these differences with reference to alternative sources. In general, it seems that the information on the plate is correct. Those that could not be resolved are as follows:

Pl. 5—LOI has "Journal Asiatique, Syro-Egyptien-Phoenicien." Plate has "Journal Asiatique, Coupe de Palestrina."

Pl. 9—LOI has "sixteenth century." Plate has "seventeenth century."

Pl. 10—LOI has "5, 6, 7. Egyptian smooth and rippling wave pattern." Plate has "5, 6, 7. Egyptian Smooth and Rippling Water Patterns."

Pl. 10—LOI has "10, 11, 14. Babylonian and Chaldean." Plate has "10, 11, 14. Assyrian."

Pl. 11—LOI omits Assyrian references.

Pl. 12—LOI has "2, 3. Egyptian. 4, 5. Greek." Plate has "2, 3. Indian Lotus Patterns. 4, 5. Egyptian Lotus Patterns."

Pl. 15—LOI has "Book of Kells." Plate has "Lindisfarne Gospels."

Pl. 20—LOI has "1, 2, 3. Assyrian. 4. Sicilian Silk. 5. Mediaeval." Plate has "1, 2, 3, 5. Assyrian. 4. Sicilian Silk."

Pl. 28—LOI has "1. Dress patterns from old MS. 2, 3. Old English tiles." Plate has "1, 2. Gothic tiles. 3. Gothic Border of a Dress. 4. Gothic Vine."

Pl. 31—LOI omits mention of a third Egyptian fundata pattern.

Pl. 32—LOI references "Bock's Lit. Gew. ii. p. 246." Plate references "Vol i. taf. xi."

Pl. 35—LOI omits mention of a peacock pattern. Plate omits mention of Persian type.

Pl. 41—The source of the examples are either omitted or different on the LOI to those given on the plate.

Pl. 68—LOI has "sixteenth century." Plate has "fifteenth century."

Pl. 70—LOI has "A.D. 434." Plate has "sixth century."

Pl. 72—LOI "ST. GREGORY AND ST. JOHN (PROPHET)." Plate has "St. John" and "St. Roger."

Pl. 74—LOI gives different title for Strutt's book to that given on the plate. From research, it seems that the short title is actually "The Regal and Ecclesiastical Antiqities of England."

Pl. 76—LOI has "twelfth century." Plate has "XIII. century."

Illustrations have been moved where necessary so that they are not in the middle of a paragraph. Some of the plates do not have numbers on the plate themselves.

THE END