(*Footnote. Hawkesworth Coll. Volume 3 page 277 et seq.)

The beach was lined with the areca, or fan-palm tree, from which the well-known liquor called toddy is procured. During our conference with these people they were all busily employed in eating the fruit spike of the piper betle,* which they first thickly covered with shell-lime; after chewing it for some time, they spit it out into the hand of the attendant slave who completes the exhaustion of this luxurious morceau by conveying it to his own mouth.

(*Footnote. Persoon, in his description of areca catechu, makes the following observation: E fructu ab extima pellicula libero, simul cum foliis piperis betle, addito pauxillo calcis ex ostreis, fit masticatorium, quod Indiani continue volvunt in ore, ut malus anhelitus corrigatur, et dentes ac stomachus roborentur. Persoon, Syn. Plant. pars. 2 577.)

They have a small-sized breed of horses at Savu, similar to that of Rottee; and pigs, sheep, and poultry appeared to be very plentiful. No observations were taken during our stay in Zeba Bay. The tides were scarcely perceptible and their rise and fall uncertain from the steep bank on which we had anchored.

After quitting the bay we made every possible progress towards Timor; and as long as we kept between the Islands of Savu and Rottee we found no perceptible current against us, although the wind was constantly from the South-East.

October 26.

On the 26th the contents of one of our remaining casks of water was found to be so bad that it could not be used for any purpose; upon examination it turned out that the cask had been constructed at Port Jackson of the staves of old salt-provision barrels. This loss, amounting to two days' water, we could but ill spare: two or three gallons were collected from the rain which fell during the evening; and this trifling supply, although it had a tarry taste, was acceptable in our present circumstances.

The next morning was calm. A small coasting proa was seen to the northward but soon afterwards lost sight of, steering towards Timor.

October 28.

At daylight (28th) land was seen bearing East 1/2 North; at noon our latitude was nine degrees 45 minutes 32 seconds; and by the morning and evening sights for the chronometers a current had set us to the North 81 degrees West at nearly one mile and a quarter per hour. The wind, hanging between South-East and South-South-East, prevented our tacking to the southward to get out of the current, which, on our first experiencing it, was thought to have been occasioned by a set through the strait of Rottee; it was however afterwards found that we were on the southern edge of the current that sets to the westward, down the north coast of Timor, and that between Rottee and Savu the current is of trifling consequence.

October 29.

The next morning land was again indistinctly seen bearing East 12 degrees South. At ten a.m. it was clearly visible, as well as a peaked hill which bore East 1/2 North. We were now in a current setting rapidly to the westward and soon lost a great portion of the ground that we had been so long toiling to gain. In the evening the wind veering to East-South-East enabled us to steer to the southward and to get out of the influence of the current.

October 30 to 31.

From this to the 31st we had made little progress to the eastward; but in the afternoon a breeze set in from West-South-West and brightened our prospects: our water being now nearly expended, no time was to be lost, and we steered for the Strait of Rottee in order to pass through that of Samow; but the wind was so light that, not being sufficiently advanced before dark, we bore up, and passed round the west side of Pulo Samow with a breeze from South-East which continued during the night...

1819. November 1.

And by daylight had carried us near the north-west end of the island; at nine a.m. the sea breeze set in from South-West and West, and gradually increasing, we happily succeeded in arriving off the town of Coepang where we moored at one-fifth of a mile from the flagstaff of Fort Concordia, bearing South 14 1/2 degrees East.

Mr. Roe went on shore soon after anchoring to wait upon the Resident, and to inform him of the purport of our visit: he found that our former friend Mr. Hazaart was at Batavia, and that his place was temporarily supplied by Mr. Halewyn; from whom we experienced such assistance and attention as enabled us to complete our wood and water and to obtain refreshments for the crew by the eighth day.

November 1 to 9.

The refreshments consisted of sheep, coconuts, limes, bananas, mangoes, and the Jaca fruit. The sheep weighed from twelve to sixteen pounds and were charged at about seven shillings and seven pence each. Limes were very scarce, and oranges, pompions, and other vegetables which were most wanted, were not to be procured at this season. Honey was very plentiful and good and was preferred by our people to the gulah, of which we got large quantities last year.

The weather during the first three or four days of our stay was fine but afterwards damp and showery with a succession of land winds, which affected us all with colds; so that we lost no time in leaving the bay the moment that our wants were supplied, which was at sunset on the ninth.

From the secretary to the government we obtained information that Captain de Freycinet of the French Corvette L'Uranie had visited Coepang in October last, and remained there fifteen days. L'Uranie was fitting out at Toulon when we left England in 1817 for a voyage round the world, and was expected on her way to touch upon the western coasts of New Holland; but it appeared that the only place which Captain De Freycinet visited was Shark's Bay on the western coast; he remained there a short time for the purpose of swinging his pendulum, and of completing the astronomical observations that had been previously made during Commodore Baudin's voyage. We also heard that the master and four of the crew of the ship Frederick, the wreck of which we had seen at Cape Flinders, had arrived at Coepang in a ship that was in company with her at the time of the accident; but what became of the Frederick's longboat, which left the wreck with twenty-three of the crew, in company with the master's boat, in which were ONLY FOUR OR FIVE people, never afterwards transpired.

November 10.

After leaving Coepang the wind, which freshened up from the East by North, continued steady until the following day, when we were at noon in 10 degrees 36 minutes 47 seconds South, the summit of Savu bearing North 83 degrees West. The wind then fell and veered to South-South-East, but towards evening freshened from South-East and South-East by South.

November 11.

By eight o'clock we steered a South-West course, and passed the islands of Savu and Benjoar; the breeze then freshening veered round to the eastward and brought on heavy rain with much thunder and lightning.

November 12 to 14.

After passing the meridian of Sandelwood Island, the wind varied between north and south by way of east, often suddenly changing eight or ten, and sometimes thirteen points of the compass at once.

November 15.

On the 15th we were at noon in latitude 15 degrees 14 minutes 7 seconds and longitude 115 degrees 2 minutes when the wind changed to West-North-West and cleared up the weather: it then gradually veered round by South-West and South-South-West to the south-east trade.

November 21.

At noon on the 21st we had reached the latitude assigned to the Tryal Rocks by the Dutch sloop, namely, 19 degrees 32 minutes 30 seconds; our longitude was 108 degrees 8 minutes 36 seconds. Other accounts place these rocks in 20 degrees 50 minutes; we therefore stood on with caution, for the wind and the currents to the North-West were too strong for us to lie to with safety for the night.

November 22.

At two a.m. being in latitude 20 degrees 41 minutes 14 seconds and longitude 107 degrees 11 minutes 36 seconds we sounded without success with ninety fathoms of line, and at four o'clock, having ran seven miles on a South-West by South course, had no bottom with ninety-five fathoms: at noon our latitude was 21 degrees 23 minutes 24 seconds, and longitude 106 degrees 41 minutes, when no bottom was reached with eighty fathoms.

The wind continued with little variation between South-East by South and South-East by East until we reached the latitude of 27 1/2 degrees and 102 degrees 20 minutes East; here we had light southerly winds for two days after which the South-East winds carried us as far as 32 degrees South and 99 degrees 45 minutes East; between this and 34 degrees South we had variable light airs from East-South-East to South-South-West. Afterwards alternate northerly and southerly winds, with fine weather and top-gallant breezes, carried us as far as latitude 38 degrees and longitude 117 1/2 degrees. From this we ran along the south coast of New Holland, with strong gales between South-South-West and West; but on approaching Bass Strait the winds hung to the southward, and veering afterwards to South-East we were driven to the northward.

1819. December 24.

On the 24th December at eight p.m. we made the land between Cape Northumberland and Cape Buffon.

December 27.

But from light baffling winds had advanced no farther by noon (27th) than four or five miles South-South-West of Lady Julia Percy's Isle. This island is incorrectly laid down in Captain Flinders' chart, owing to the very unfavourable weather which he experienced in passing this part of the coast; we found it to lie East 3 degrees South (true) seventeen miles and a half from Lawrence Island: a second island has a place in Captain Flinders' chart, but we saw nothing of it. The coast also lies farther back in proportion to the error of the island's position.

1820. January 2.

At four o'clock p.m. 2nd January we entered Bass Strait by the channel on the north side of King's Island.

January 12.

After passing through the strait we experienced so much bad weather and contrary gales of wind that we did not arrive at Port Jackson until the morning of the 12th, having been absent thirty-five weeks and four days.

The result of our proceedings during this voyage has been the survey of 540 miles of the northern coast, in addition to the 500 that were previously examined. Besides which we had made a running survey of that portion of the intertropical part of the east coast that is situated between the Percy Isles and Torres Strait; a distance of 900 miles; the detailed survey of which had never before been made, for Captain Cook merely examined it in a cursory manner as he passed up the coast. The opportunity, therefore, was not lost of making such observations on our voyage as enabled me to present to the public a route towards Torres Strait infinitely preferable on every account to the dangerous navigation without the reefs, which has hitherto been chiefly used.

As it was not intended that I should make the survey of this extensive tract of coast I did not feel myself authorized to examine in any very detailed way the bottom of every bay or opening that presented itself; but merely confined myself to laying down the vessel's track and the positions of various reefs that were strewed on either side of it; and also to fixing the situations of the head-lands. In doing this enough has been effected to serve as the precursor of a more particular examination of the coast, the appearance of which, from its general fertile and mountainous character, made me regret the necessity of passing so hastily over it.



CHAPTER 9. Equipment for the third voyage. Leave Port Jackson. Loss of bowsprit, and return. Observations upon the present state of the colony, as regarding the effect of floods upon the River Hawkesbury. Re-equipment and final departure. Visit Port Bowen. Cutter thrown upon a sandbank. Interview with the natives, and description of the country about Cape Clinton. Leave Port Bowen. Pass through the Northumberland, and round the Cumberland Islands. Anchor at Endeavour River. Summary of observations taken there. Visit from the natives. Vocabulary of their language. Observations thereon in comparing it with Captain Cook's account. Mr. Cunningham visits Mount Cook. Leave Endeavour River, and visit Lizard Island. Cape Flinders and Pelican Island. Entangled in the reefs. Haggerston's Island, Sunday Island, and Cairncross Island. Cutter springs a leak. Pass round Cape York. Endeavour Strait. Anchor under Booby Island. Remarks upon the Inner and Outer routes through Torres Strait.

1820. June 21.

In preparing our little vessel for a third voyage, it became requisite to give her a considerable repair; and among many other things there was an absolute necessity for her being fresh coppered; but from the pretended scarcity of copper sheathing in the colony and other circumstances that opposed the measure, we found more than a common difficulty in effecting it. The cutter was careened at a place appointed for the purpose on the east side of Sydney Cove; and whilst undergoing her repair the crew lived on board a hulk hired for the occasion. This offered so favourable an opportunity for destroying the rats and cockroaches with which she was completely overrun, a measure that, from the experience of our last voyage, was considered absolutely necessary for our comfort as well as for our personal safety, that, as soon as the operation of coppering and caulking was finished, she was secured alongside of the hulk, and there immersed in the water for several days, by which process we hoped effectually to destroy them.

Upon the vessel being raised and the water pumped out, I was rejoiced to find that the measure appeared to have had the desired effect; but, before we left Port Jackson, she was again infested by rats, and we had not been long at sea before the cockroaches also made their appearance in great numbers. In sinking the cutter it seemed, in respect to the insects, that we had only succeeded in destroying the living stock, and that the eggs, which were plentifully deposited in the recesses and cracks of the timbers and sides, proved so impervious to the sea-water, that no sooner had we reached the warmer climate, than they were hatched, and the vessel was quickly repossessed by them; but it was many months before we were so annoyed by their numbers as had been the case during the last voyage.

Our crew, after they had returned the stores and fitted the standing rigging, were paid their wages; when, with only two exceptions, they were at their own wish discharged, and it was some time before a new crew was collected. Whilst we were repairing the defects, H.M. store-ship Dromedary arrived from England and brought us a selection of stores, for the want of which we should otherwise have been detained many months.

By this ship orders were received from the Admiralty to rig the cutter with rope manufactured from the New Zealand hemp (Phormium tenax) but there was a considerable difficulty in procuring enough even for a boom-sheet. This specimen was prepared by a rope-maker of the colony, and the result of the trial has fully justified the good opinion previously formed of its valuable qualities.

In my communication to the Admiralty in June, 1818 from Timor, I had mentioned the necessity of a medical man being attached to the vessel; and upon my last return I found one had arrived with an appointment to the Mermaid; but, to my great mortification, he was unable to join, from being afflicted with mental derangement which continued so long and so severely that I was under the necessity of sending him back to England. We had now every prospect of encountering a third voyage without the assistance of a surgeon. Hitherto we had been fortunate in not having materially suffered from the want of so valuable an officer; but it was scarcely probable we could expect to continue upon such a service much longer without severe sickness. As any assistance therefore was preferable to none, I accepted the proffered services of a young man who was strongly recommended by his Excellency the Governor, and he was on the point of joining me, when a surgeon of the navy, Mr. James Hunter, who had just arrived in charge of a convict ship, volunteered his services which were gladly accepted, and he was immediately attached to the Mermaid's establishment.

The accession of a surgeon to our small party relieved me of a greater weight of anxiety than I can describe; and when it is considered that Mr. Hunter left an employment of a much more lucrative nature to join an arduous service in a vessel whose only cabin was scarcely large enough to contain our mess-table, and which afforded neither comfort nor convenience of any description, I may be allowed here to acknowledge my thanks for the sacrifice he made.

After all our defects were repaired, and we were otherwise quite ready for sea, we were detained nearly a month before our crew was completed.

June 14.

And it was not until the 14th of June that we left Port Jackson.

For a day or two previous to our departure the weather had been very unsettled; and when we sailed, there was every appearance of an approaching gale of wind: we had however been detained so long in collecting a crew that I was glad to sail the moment we were ready: besides I hoped to get to the northward before the threatening storm commenced. Unfortunately however we had no sooner put to sea than it set in; and by the time we were abreast of Smoky Cape the wind, after flying about, fixed itself in the eastern board, and blew extremely hard with thick weather and heavy rain.

June 20 to 22.

The gale lasted with little intermission during the 20th and 21st; and at four o'clock the next morning we had the misfortune to lose our bowsprit by the vessel's plunging into a head sea. We had however made a sufficient offing to enable us to keep away two points, so that, by rigging the wreck of the bowsprit, which was barely long enough to spread the storm jib, we contrived to steer a course we had every reason to think would carry her clear of Port Stevens. We continued to run to the southward until the afternoon, when, supposing we had passed that port, we bore away to the South-West. At midnight the gale fell, and the wind changed to the westward.

June 23.

At daylight land was seen to windward, which, from the distance we had ran, was supposed to be about Port Stevens; but we found ourselves at noon by a meridional observation, off Jervis Bay; so that the current during the gale had set us one hundred and fifty miles to the southward, and for the last twenty-four hours at the rate of nearly three knots per hour.

June 24.

Owing to this we did not arrive at Port Jackson until the following day at noon; and it was sunset before the cutter anchored in the cove.

It appeared on our arrival that the weather had been even worse on the land than we had experienced it at sea. The Nepean and Hawkesbury Rivers had been flooded, by which the growing crops had been considerably injured, but happily the colony has long ceased to suffer from these once much-dreaded inundations: a great portion of upland country out of the reach of the waters is now cultivated, from which the government stores are principally supplied with grain. Individuals who, from obstinacy, persist in the cultivation of the low banks of the Hawkesbury, alone suffer from these destructive floods, which have been known to rise in a few hours to the height of eighty feet above the usual level of the river's bed. The evil, however, deposits its own atonement; and the succeeding crop, if it escapes a flood, repays the settlers for their previous loss: this it is that emboldens them to persist in their ill-advised temerity. At no very distant period a time will arrive when these very lands, the cultivation of which has caused so much distress to the colony and ruin to individuals, will, by being laid down in grass for the purposes of depasturing cattle, become a considerable source of wealth to their possessors.

There has been no general want of grain in the colony since the year 1817, although there have been several floods upon the Hawkesbury and the other rivers that fall into it, which have greatly distressed the farmers of that district. One of the arguments, therefore, with which the enemies of colonizing in New South Wales have hitherto armed themselves, in order to induce emigrants to give the preference to Van Diemen's Land, falls to the ground.

We were fortunate in finding in the naval yard, a spar of the New Zealand cowrie pine (dammara) large enough for our bowsprit.

1820. July 13.

And on the 13th of July, having had our damages repaired, we resumed our voyage under more favourable omens, for we sailed with a fair wind and fine weather.

July 17.

On the 17th July we were off Moreton Bay, and in the afternoon communicated with a whaler which heaved in sight off the Cape (Moreton). My object was to learn whether she had heard any tidings of a boat belonging to the Echo whaler, which ship had been lately wrecked on the Cato's bank: one of her boats, with part of her crew, arrived at Sydney a few days before we sailed; but another boat, in which the master and the remainder of her people embarked, had not been heard of; and I entertained hopes that this vessel had picked them up, but, on the master's coming on board, I found that he was quite ignorant of her loss.

It so happened that both ships belonged to the same owner, Messrs. Bennetts of London; and we had the satisfaction of afterwards hearing that the information we had thus afforded proved useful; for the vessel subsequently succeeded in finding the boat, and preserving the lives of the crew. After giving our visitor some information respecting the coast and the reef off Cape Moreton, which he claimed as his discovery, but which, much to his surprise, we showed him already laid down on Captain Flinders' chart of 1801, he returned to his ship, and we resumed our course to the northward.

July 18.

At nine o'clock the next evening, having passed Indian Head in the morning, we rounded Breaksea Spit, and at midnight brought to the wind in order to make Lady Elliot's Island.

July 19.

But, finding at daylight that a current had drifted us past it, we steered on, and at ten o'clock discovered a group of low woody islets. They were named Bunker's Isles. It has been since ascertained that they abound with turtle and beche de mer, the latter of which, if not both, will at some future time become of considerable importance to the coasting trade of New South Wales.

July 20.

On the 20th we anchored on the south side of Port Bowen, in the entrance of the inlet that extends to the southward within the projection of Cape Clinton; but in doing this we were unfortunate enough to get aground, and receive very serious damage. After passing the Cape and hauling round its inner trend towards the sandy bay, we had to beat to windward to reach the anchorage, and, in the act of tacking on the western side of the inlet, the tide swept us upon a sandbank, over which, as the wind was blowing obliquely upon it, the cutter continued to drive until the sails were taken in and an anchor laid out astern to check her; but before we could extricate her from the dangerous situation in which she was placed, it was found necessary to lay out another bower-anchor, for there was a rolling swell upon the bank, and every time it left her she struck very hard upon the ground. Happily the tide was flowing, and as soon as the vessel floated she was warped into a secure birth within the heads of the inlet.

During the time that the cutter had been on the bank, which was two hours and a half, she was continually striking; and at one time we heard a loud crash which gave us reason to fear that some serious damage had happened. At first it was thought either that the pintles of the rudder were broken or that the stern-post was rent; but upon examination both appeared to have escaped; and as no leak was observed during the night I indulged the hope that the noise was not occasioned by any accident that would inconvenience us, or oblige our premature return to Port Jackson. That this hope proved to be fallacious will soon appear; and, had the extent of the damage received been discovered before we left this anchorage, I should not have ventured further up the coast, but have immediately returned to Port Jackson. Had the tide been falling when the vessel struck, instead of the reverse, our situation must have been attended with more serious damage, if not our total loss; and therefore, comforted by an ideal security, we consoled ourselves under our comparatively good fortune.

July 21.

The next day was spent in watering, getting provisions to hand in the hold, and refitting some temporary damage to the rigging. Mr. Hunter and Mr. Cunningham ranged about the vicinity of the shore whilst Mr. Roe, with a boat's crew, was employed in filling our empty water-casks from a gully at the back of the beach.

Soon after the watering-party commenced their work some shrill voices were heard near them among the trees: in a short time two natives made their appearance and were easily persuaded to approach. They were unarmed, and communicated with confidence, and apparently were disposed to be friendly; one of them gave Mr. Roe a fishing-line spun and twisted of strips of bark, to the end of which was attached a hook made from a turtle-shell.

Our gentlemen revisited the shore in the afternoon but without seeing the natives. In wandering about they discovered some stumps of trees close to the beach that bore marks of having been felled with a sharp instrument; and near some huts they found several strips of canvas lying on the ground, from which it would appear that the place had recently been visited by Europeans.

July 22.

I landed the next morning with a theodolite in order to obtain some bearings from the summit of the hill over the beach, but my intention was frustrated by a visit from the natives, five of whom made their appearance upon the hills as the boat arrived at the shore. The party consisted of three men and two boys: one of the men carried a spear, another had a boomerang* of a smaller size but otherwise similar to that which the Port Jackson natives use; and the boys each carried a short branch of a tree in their hands: they met us halfway and allowed us to approach with our muskets, a circumstance which dispelled all suspicion of any unfriendly feeling towards us; nor do I think any did exist when we first met.

(*Footnote. The boomerang is a very formidable weapon; it is a short, curved piece of heavy wood, and is propelled through the air by the hand in so skilful a manner that the thrower alone knows where it will fall. It is generally thrown against the wind and takes a rapid rotary motion. It is used by the natives with success in killing the kangaroo, and is, I believe, more a hunting than a warlike weapon. The size varies from eighteen to thirty inches in length, and from two to three inches broad. The shape is that of an obtuse angle rather than a crescent: one in my possession is twenty-six inches long, its greatest breadth two inches and a half, thickness half an inch, and the angle formed from the centre is 140 degrees. Boomerang is the Port Jackson term for this weapon, and may be retained for want of a more descriptive name. There is a drawing of it by M. Lesueur in Plate 22 Figure 6 of Peron's Atlas; it is there described by the name of sabre a ricochet. This plate may, by the way, be referred to for drawings of the greater number of the weapons used by the Port Jackson natives, all of which, excepting the identical boomerang, are very well delineated. M. Lesueur has however failed in his sabre a ricochet.)

In order to divert them and obtain as much information as we could whilst the boat's crew were filling the water-casks, we seated ourselves on the grass and commenced a conversation that was perfectly unintelligible to each other, accompanied with the most ridiculous gestures, a species of buffoonery that is always acceptable to the natives of this part of the world, and on more than one occasion has been particularly useful to us. An attempt was made to procure a vocabulary of their language, but without success, for we were soon obliged from their impatience to give it up. Not so easily, however, were they diverted from their object, for every article of our dress, and everything we carried, they asked for with the greatest importunity; our refusal disappointed them so much that they could not avoid showing the hostile feelings they had evidently begun to entertain towards us. Seeing this, I took an opportunity of convincing them of our power, and after some difficulty persuaded the native that carried the spear to throw it at a paper-mark placed against a bush at the distance of twelve yards. He launched it twice, but, much to his mortification, without striking the object. Mr. Hunter then fired and perforated the paper with shot, which increased the shame that the native and his companions evidently felt upon the occasion: Mr. Hunter then killed a small bird that was skipping about the branches of an overhanging tree; upon the bird being given to them, they impatiently and angrily examined it all over, and particularly scrutinized the wound that caused its death.

We now found that the proved superiority of our weapons, instead of quieting them, only served to inflame their anger the more; and we were evidently on the point of an open rupture. One of them seized the theodolite-stand, which I carried in my hand, and I was obliged to use force to retain it. They then made signs to Mr. Hunter to send his gun to the boat; this was of course refused, upon which one of them seized it, and it was only by wrenching it from his grasp that Mr. Hunter repossessed himself of it.

Many little toys were now given to them, on receiving which their countenances relaxed into a smile; and peace would perhaps have been restored, had we not unfortunately presented them with a looking-glass, in which they were, for the first time, witnesses of their hideous countenances, which were rendered still more savage from the ill-humour they were in. They now became openly angry; and in very unequivocal terms ordered us away. Fortunately the Indian that carried the spear was the least ill-tempered of the party, or we should not perhaps have retreated without being under the necessity of firing in self-defence.

We retired however without any farther rupture and left them seated on the bank, whence they continued to watch our movements until the boat was loaded and we left the shore. They then came down to the beach and searched about for whatever things we might accidentally have left behind; and after examining with great attention some marks that, for amusement, some of our party had scratched upon the sand, they separated. The old man and the two boys embarked in a canoe and paddled round the point towards the Cape, in which direction also the other two natives bent their steps.

The tall, slender form of the Port Jackson natives and their other peculiarities of long curly hair, large heads, and spare limbs are equally developed in the inhabitants of this part. The bodies of these people are however considerably more scarified than their countrymen to the southward, and their teeth are perfect. One of our visitors had a fillet of plaited grass, whitened by pigment, bound round his head, and this was the only ornament worn by them.

The spear was of very rude form and seemed to be a branch of the mangrove-tree, made straight by the effect of fire: it did not appear that they used the throwing-stick.

The soil of the hills of Cape Clinton is of good quality but the country at the back of the port appears to be chiefly marshy land. Mr. Hunter sowed orange and lemon seeds in various places in the neighbourhood of the cape; the climate of this part is so well adapted for those trees that, if it were possible to protect them from the fires of the natives, they would soon grow up, and prove a valuable refreshment to voyagers.

Captain Flinders describes the soil at the northern part of the port to be "either sandy or stony, and unfit for cultivation."* The country around Mount Westall is also formed of a shallow soil, but the low lands are covered with grass and trees, and the ravines and sides of the hills are covered with stunted pine-trees which were thought to be the Araucaria excelsa.

(*Footnote. Flinders volume 2 page 38.)

The country between Port Bowen and Shoalwater Bay is low and overrun with mangroves; but Captain Flinders* speaks more favourably of the land about the latter bay, particularly in the vicinity of his Pine Mount, where he describes the soil as being fit for cultivation. At Upper Head in Broad Sound the country appears to be still better;** in addition to which the great rise of tides might be of considerable importance to that place, should a settlement there ever be contemplated.

(*Footnote. Flinders volume 2 page 51.)

(**Footnote. Idem volume 2 page 71.)

Having obtained sights on the beach at Cape Clinton for the time-keepers we sailed out of this port by the same track that we entered; and held our course to the northward towards the Northumberland Islands.

At midnight we were abreast of the Percy Islands.

July 23.

At noon the next day we passed to the westward of the islet, marked kl, and thence steered between the Three Rocks and k2, and, before sunset, were near l2, the island on which Captain Flinders landed.

July 24.

The night was passed under sail and at daylight, when we resumed our course towards the Cumberland Islands, Linne Peak and Shaw's Peak, and the land about Capes Hillsborough and Conway were seen. At noon we were off Pentecost Island.

Hence we steered to the northward within a string of rocky islets. On passing this part, some natives came down to a point, and kindled a fire to attract our attention. At four o'clock in the evening we rounded the north extreme of the Cumberland Islands; and by sunset obtained a set of bearings to connect the present survey with that of last year. A lofty peak on the main, distinctly visible from all parts, particularly from Repulse Bay, was named after the late Jonas Dryander, Esquire; it was ascertained to be 4566 feet high.

The Cumberland Islands are all high and rocky and are covered on their windward or south-east sides with stunted timber and pine-trees; but the leeward sides, being sheltered from the wind, are generally well clothed with grass and timber. The pine-trees on these islands do not appear to be of large dimensions but several vessels have cut spars upon the islands near the south end of Whitsunday Passage, large enough for topmasts and bowsprits for vessels of 400 tons burthen. It is not probable that larger spars can be obtained: they are very tough, but full of knots; and, when carried away by the wind, break short without splintering.

July 25.

We passed Capes Gloucester and Upstart during the night and early part of the next morning. Between the latter cape and the low projection of Cape Bowling-green, we experienced an in-draught of three-quarters of a knot per hour. This also occurred last year; and it should be guarded against by ships passing by: for the land about the latter cape is so low that it cannot be seen at night.

From the period of our entering among the Northumberland Islands, the weather, although fine, had been more than usually hazy; the wind during the day blew moderately from South by East and South, and veered towards night to South-East by East and East-South-East; but when we passed Cape Cleveland it blew a fresh breeze, and was so very hazy that we could not take advantage of our vicinity to the coast by verifying or improving any part of our former survey, except the outer or seaward side of the Palm Island Group, near which we passed in the evening.

July 26.

The next morning we were off the southernmost Barnard's Island, and as the coast between Double Point and Fitzroy Island had not been satisfactorily laid down on the previous examination of this part, we steered near the shore in order to improve it; but the land was much overcast and the summits of Bellenden Ker's Range were so enveloped in clouds that very little improvement was effected.

A breeze, however, in the evening from South-East dispersed the vapours that had collected during the day on the sea horizon. In passing outside of Fitzroy Island, a sandbank situated nine miles East 1/2 South from the island was noticed, and other banks were reported from the masthead; but on my going up I saw nothing more than a bright appearance on the horizon, which is however an indication of their existence that seldom failed in being correct, whenever an opportunity offered of proving it.

Bearing up between Cape Grafton and Green Island we steered North-West 1/2 North, by compass to make the Low Isles in Trinity Bay. The weather was thick and misty with showers of rain; but, as a sight of these islands was of consequence in crossing this bay, we continued to steer for them, and at midnight they were seen. This enabled us to direct the course with more confidence towards Cape Tribulation over Captain Cook's track.

July 27.

At daylight we were off the cape and soon passed to the eastward of the Hope Islands; between which and Endeavour River we had an opportunity of laying down the reefs in the offing, particularly that on which the Endeavour struck, and which so nearly proved fatal to her enterprising commander and his companions.

As it was our intention to visit Endeavour River to complete our former observations for the determination of its longitude, we hauled in for the land and upon reaching the entrance, with which I was sufficiently acquainted, steered over the bar on which the least water was ten feet, and secured the cutter to the beach on the same spot occupied at our last visit.

Being anxious to see what change had taken place during an absence of twelve months, our steps were naturally first directed to the spot where our boat had been built; the remains of our encampment were still visible, and the carpenter's bench was exactly in the same state as it had been left: the Mermaid's name, which had been carved on a tree, was also legible; but in a short time would have been defaced by the young bark which had already nearly covered it. Upon visiting our former watering place we were mortified to find that it was quite dried up; and this may probably account for the absence of natives, for there was not a single vestige of their presence on this side of the port; but as large fires were burning at the back of the north shore it was presumed they were in that direction. On setting fire to the grass to clear a space for our tent, it was quickly burnt to the ground, and the flames continued to ravage and extend over the hills until midnight.

July 28.

The following day we erected tents and commenced some repairs to the jolly-boat, which was hauled up in the usual place; the other two boats were sent to the north end of the long sandy beach on the opposite side to examine the state of the rivulet which we had noticed there last year. On their return they reported it to be still running with a plentiful stream; and although it was rather inconvenient, from the beach being exposed to the swell and surf, yet our boats made daily trips to it without any ill consequences, notwithstanding one of them was once swamped in loading; it did not however sustain any injury.

Another stream of water was subsequently found on the south side, a little without the entrance of the harbour, but too brackish for the purposes of drinking; it was therefore merely used during our stay for the common purposes of washing and cooking.

Whilst our people were thus employed I was assisted by Mr. Roe at the observatory. As the particulars of our observations for this and the preceding years are inserted in the Appendix it will be sufficient here merely to record the position of the observatory; it was situated on the south shore opposite the low sandy north point; and was found to be in:

Latitude: 15 degrees 27 minutes 4 seconds. Longitude: 145 degrees 10 minutes 49 seconds. Variation of the compass: 5 degrees 13 3/4 minutes East. Dip of the south end of the Needle: 38 degrees. High water at full and change: at eight o'clock.

July 29.

On the 29th Mr. Bedwell went to Captain Cook's Turtle Reef but he was unsuccessful in his search for that animal; neither did he find any shells different from what we had previously seen; only a few clams (Chama gigas) were brought away, besides a small fish of the shark tribe (Squalus ocellatus, Linn.). At high water the reef was overflowed excepting at its north-west end where a patch of sand not larger than the boat was left dry. At low tide the key, or the ridge of rocks heaped up round the edge of the reef, was left dry and formed a barricade for the interior, which is occupied by a shallow lake of circular shape in which many small fish and some sharks were seen swimming about. It was from this reef that Captain Cook, during the repair of his ship, procured turtle for her crew; and, this being the same season, we were disappointed in not obtaining any. On the return of the boat she was placed in some danger from the number of whales, of the fin-back species, that were sporting about the surface of the water and occasionally leaping out of it and lashing the sea with their enormous fins.

July 30.

On the 30th, having hitherto carried on our occupation without seeing or hearing anything of the natives, whilst I was busily employed with Mr. Roe in observing the sun's meridional altitude, I happened on looking round to espy five natives standing about forty or fifty yards off among the high grass watching our movements. As soon as they perceived we had discovered them they began to repeat the word itchew (friend) and to pat their breasts, thereby intimating that their visit had no hostile motive. As the sun was rapidly approaching its meridian I called Mr. Bedwell from on board to amuse them until our observations were completed. The only weapons they appeared to carry were throwing-sticks, which we easily obtained in exchange for some grains of Indian corn.

A few words were obtained by Mr. Cunningham which served to confirm many we had possessed ourselves of last year; and which, being afterwards compared with the vocabulary of the New South Wales language given by Captain Cook, proves that he obtained it at Endeavour River. And here it is not a little curious to remark that, of the only two words which materially differ in the two accounts, one of them is the name of the kangaroo. This word was repeatedly used to them last year, as well as this, accompanied by an imitation of the leap of the animal, which they readily understood; but on repeating the word kangaroo they always corrected us by saying "men-u-ah." This animal has therefore been distinguished by a name which chance alone gave it; and not, as has always been supposed, from the term applied to it by the natives of the part where Captain Cook first saw it.

The resemblance of the words in the following vocabulary proves that the language of these people has not changed since Captain Cook's visit; and that in the term for kangaroo he has been mistaken.

COLUMN 1: ENGLISH WORD. COLUMN 2: WORD ACCORDING TO OUR VOCABULARY. COLUMN 3: WORD ACCORDING TO CAPTAIN COOK.

Kangaroo : Men-u-ah : Kangaroo. Canoe : Mar-a-gan : Maragan. Eye : Ca-ree, or Me-ell : Meul. Nose : E-mer-da, or Po-te-er : Bon-joo. Ear : Mil-kah : Melea. Teeth : Mol-ear. Knee : Bon-go : Pongo. Toes : Eb-e-rah. Navel : Tool-po-ra : Tool poor. A quail : Kah-kee or Mool-lar. Friend : It-chew. Pigment : Wo-parr. Feathers : Te-err. Hair of the head : Mor-re-ah : Morye. Beard : Wol-lah : Wallar. Nipples : Coy-o-ber-rah : Cayo. Fingers : Mun-gal-bah. Elbow : Ye-er-we. Huts : Ye-er-kah. Go along, go away, or go on : Tattee or Tah-tee.

Among the presents made to them were some beads which they appeared to consider of little value; but what pleased them most was a bird that Mr. Hunter shot previous to their appearance.

Their visit did not last longer than a quarter of an hour during which they were very pressing for us to accompany them; finding us however unwilling to trust ourselves in their power, for from our experience of their mischievous behaviour last year we had good reason to be suspicious of their intentions, they went away, but after walking a short distance, one of them returned, and stooping, picked up something with which he immediately slunk off, evidently with the hope of having escaped our notice: but in this he was disappointed; for Mr. Hunter and Mr. Cunningham followed him and ascertained that he had returned to carry away his spear which had been concealed close at hand during their communication with our party; and by the limping gait of the rest it was probable that they all carried spears between their toes; a practice that has been frequently observed among the natives in many parts of New South Wales, when they wish to conceal their being armed; and which generally indicates a mischievous intention.

Shortly after their departure the country towards the back of the harbour was perceived to have been set on fire by them; as the wind was fresh the flames spread about in all directions; and in the evening our people being allowed to range about for amusement, increased the conflagration by setting fire to the surrounding grass; so that the whole surface was in a blaze.

July 31.

The next day, whilst busily employed at the tent in calculating some lunar distances, we were suddenly alarmed by the rapid approach of the flames; but having previously taken the precaution of burning the grass off round the tent, their advance was received with unconcern: the rapidity and fierceness however with which they approached made me fear that the sparks might set fire to the tent, upon which the instruments were moved to the water's edge and the tent pulled down; but, had not the grass been previously cleared away, we could not have saved any article, from the rapidity with which the flames spread through that which had been left standing and which was not more than ten yards from the tent.

1820. August 2.

Three days after the visit from the natives, Mr. Bedwell and Mr. Hunter proceeded to examine among the mangroves at the back of the harbour for a communication with some fresh water ponds which we had discovered the day before; but they returned in the afternoon without success. They had penetrated up two or three openings in the mangroves; in one of which was found a canoe, similar to that described by Woodcut 3: it was hollowed out of the trunk of the erythrina and was furnished with an outrigger. A turtle-peg was found in it, which Mr. Hunter brought away; it measured seventeen inches in length and was in other respects similar to that used by the natives of Rockingham Bay. (See Woodcut 4.) On the mud and close to the canoe the gentlemen noticed the impression of a human foot, that must have been made since the previous high tide. They also saw an alligator but it was not more than eight feet in length.

Mr. Cunningham returned in the evening from a walk to the summit of Mount Cook, much fatigued from the difficulty he experienced in the ascent: he brought with him however a collection of specimens and seeds, which fully repaid him for the toil of his excursion. He also rendered his expedition useful to me by taking the bearings of some reefs in the offing and by furnishing a sketch of the bay on the south side of the mountain, and of the rivulet which falls into it. This did not appear to him to be deep enough for a vessel larger than a boat. It was this bay that Captain Cook first examined for a place to repair his ship after his escape from the reef; but he found it much too inconvenient and exposed for his purpose; and it was after this that Endeavour River was discovered.

On one of Mr. Cunningham's explorations he found several cabbage palms (Seaforthia elegans, Brown); but they were too distant from the tents to induce me to send for any for the ship's company. Besides this he also found a species of yam (Caladium macrorhizum, Cunn. manuscripts) the roots of which would have furnished an excellent substitute for vegetables for us, had the plants been found in abundance and convenient for gathering.

During our stay at this harbour our gentlemen visited every part of the country within five or six miles from the tents. The soil, although covered with grass, was generally remarked to be shallow and of inferior quality; as was sufficiently indicated by the small size of the trees. The distance to which we had penetrated was by no means sufficient to give a fair idea of the nature of the country in the interior; which from its hilly appearance might be expected to possess both a rich soil and a better pasturage than the parts we had seen; but for the latter, the neighbourhood of the entrance of Endeavour River was by no means insignificant.

The small number of our crew prevented my sending away a party to examine the interior with any certainty of protection either to the travellers or to those left in charge of the vessel; and this circumstance, on several occasions, precluded us from forming any correct idea of the productions of the places we visited, which we probably might have been partially enabled to do by a walk of two or three miles from the sea.

Some kangaroos were seen by us during our visit; and Mr. Hunter shot a few birds: among the latter was a specimen of the Psittacus haematodus, or Blue-mountain parrot of Port Jackson; and a crane-like bird, similar to the Ardea antigone, was seen at a distance. Some of our gentlemen observed the impression of a bird's foot, resembling that of an emu; it was nine inches broad: very few insects were found here. We saw no more of the natives after their visit on the 30th but the smokes of their fires were frequently observed in the interior. Mr. Cunningham found some traces of their having eaten the fruit of the pandanus, of which he says, "Pandanus pedunculatus, Brown, forms ornamental clumps on these arid downs, and, being now heavily laden with its compound fruit, afforded me an ample supply of seeds in a well-ripened state. These tempting orange-coloured fruits had induced the natives to gather a quantity for the sake of the little pulp about their base, and I observed that, in order to enjoy themselves without trouble, they had lately kindled their fires immediately beneath some of the trees laden with fruit, which with some shellfish had afforded them a good repast." Cunningham manuscripts.

The weather during our visit has been oftener clouded and hazy than clear: the wind veered between South-South-East and East-South-East, and was generally fresh and accompanied with squalls. The thermometer ranged on board in the shade between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit, and the heat was by no means oppressive.

Having sufficiently attained our object in visiting this place, and having also taken the opportunity of completing our wood and water and repairing our boat, we prepared to sail.

August 5.

And on the 5th at seven o'clock in the morning weighed anchor and made for the bar; but the wind was so baffling and unsteady that we had great difficulty in passing over it.

Our course was then directed round Cape Bedford towards Lizard Island. On our way we noticed several shoals. Off the south-west end of the island we saw a great many whales: soon after three o'clock we anchored in a sandy bay on its south-west side.

August 6.

The wind during the night and the following day blew so fresh as to prevent our proceeding; the delay was therefore taken advantage of by our gentlemen to land and examine the island. It may be recollected that it was from the summit of Lizard Island that Captain Cook discovered the openings in the reefs through which he passed and got to sea; little thinking that, by so doing, he was incurring a greater risk than by remaining within the reefs and steering along the coast. Some of our people walked round the island where they found a whaler's ton butt cast upon the beach: it had probably belonged to the Echo. Near the cask were lying several coconuts, one of which was quite sound and perfect. The beach was strewed with pumice-stone heaped up above the high-water mark.

The basis of the island is a coarse-grained granite. A shallow soil on the sides of the hills, the surface of which was thickly strewed with stones and large masses of rock, nourished a slight clothing of grass and other herbage. The summit of the island forms a peak, and is perhaps about a thousand feet high; the island is thinly wooded with small trees which scarcely deserve the appellation of timber.

No natives were seen but it was evident they had lately been upon the island from the recent appearances of their fireplaces and the perfect state of a hut, which was a more comfortable habitation than we have usually found: it was arched over in the usual way, by twigs bent in the form of a dome; and was neatly thatched with dry grass. No turtle marks were noticed on the beach so that I should think this was not the season for laying their eggs.

August 8.

We were detained at this anchorage from the unfavourable state of the weather until the 8th, on which day we sailed and steered for Howick Group on a direct and unimpeded course. The channel appeared equally free on either side of the group; but as it was a material object, on account of the unfavourable state of the weather, to make sure of reaching the anchorage under Cape Flinders, we did not attempt to pass round the northern side but steered through the strait between 2 and 3, and then over our former track round Cape Melville. At six o'clock we anchored under Cape Flinders. Between Point Barrow and Cape Melville I had an opportunity of improving my chart with respect to the reefs in the offing, and of observing the outer limit of the barrier reefs which were distinguished by the heavy breakers that lined the horizon. On rounding Cape Melville, the remarkable feature of which has been previously described above, a pine-like tree was noticed growing on the summit of the ridge: Mr. Cunningham thought it was the Araucaria excelsa; if his conjecture was right this tree occupies a space of 900 miles of coast, between 14 degrees 10 minutes and 29 degrees 30 minutes. It might however have been a callitris.

On passing round Cape Flinders the remains of the Frederick's wreck were still seen scattered over the rocks but appeared much reduced in quantity.

August 9.

Upon visiting it the next morning we observed evident proofs that some ship had lately been there and taken away several of her principal spars; and that a great portion of the smaller planks had been destroyed by the natives' fires. We took the opportunity of collecting some iron-work and teak planks, which afterwards proved more serviceable than we at the time anticipated.

Mr. Cunningham and Mr. Hunter walked about the island but did not meet the natives. The traces both of men and dogs were so recent as to make us conjecture they were at no great distance; but from our subsequent knowledge of the inhabitants of these islands there is no doubt but that they would have shown themselves had they known of our visit. Mr. Cunningham also ascended a remarkably rugged-looking hill at the south point of the bay on the east side of the island, which, from its appearance, received several appropriate names from our people, such as Mount Dreary and Mount Horrid. Mr. Cunningham calls it Rugged Mount, and says, "it is thinly covered with a small variety of plants similar to those of Cape Cleveland. This mount is a pile of rugged rocks, towered up to a considerable elevation above the sea which washes its base: the stones of the summit being of angular or conical forms (apparently basaltic) whilst the general mass on the slopes or declivities are deeply excavated, furnishing spacious retreats to the natives. I entered one of the caverns (the walls of which were of a decomposing sandstone) having a window formed in it by the falling down of a portion of the side rock. The cave was a large natural chamber, capacious enough to hold conveniently a large tribe of natives; who, from the numerous fireplaces, broken turtle staffs, and other relics, had not very long since dwelt there. I also found numerous fragments of quartzose rocks lying about and pieces of a kind of marble, of a brown colour, were abundant in the cavities, as well as upon the face of the mount." (Cunningham manuscripts.)

August 10.

Upon leaving Cape Flinders we crossed Princess Charlotte's Bay and steered at half to three-quarters of a mile within the reefs: soon after noon it fell calm and we anchored under the lee of Pelican Island, and landed upon it to examine an appearance of turtle marks on the sand; they were however found to be of an old date.

This island, which does not measure more than two-thirds of a mile in circumference, is surrounded by a considerable reef and is remarkable for two clumps of trees upon it, that, standing separately, give the appearance at a distance of its being two distinct islets. It is, like all the islets near it, little better than a sandy key.

While I was employed in levelling the theodolite the gentlemen directed their steps to a flight of pelicans that was seen collected upon the beach; at their approach the old birds took wing and left their unfledged young, to the number of eighteen or twenty, waddling about the sand, all of which were killed and skinned before we embarked for the sake of their white down. On the islet three very neatly-constructed natives' huts were observed, that, from their appearance and the very recent state of the fish-bones and turtle-shells scattered about, had been lately occupied. The reef is of circular shape; the surface is formed principally of a rotten, crumbling coral rock and was destitute of shells or any animal production except the beche de mer: of which the black sort (batoo) appeared the most abundant.

Among the bearings obtained from this station was that of the highest summit of Flinders' Group, which bore South 61 degrees 26 minutes East (magnetic) and, as a connecting bearing, was of considerable importance to the survey.

August 11.

The day was too far advanced to make further progress with any advantage; we, therefore, remained until the following morning when we steered North-North-West, but were soon impeded by a very extensive reef, m, that crossed our course, trending to the North-East. Wishing to ascertain its extent to seaward, as well as to pass round its windward side, we steered along its south-eastern edge; and after proceeding for some time, first in a North-East, then a North, and afterwards in a North-North-West direction, found ourselves running through a narrow channel formed by another considerable reef, l, to the eastward, and lying in a parallel direction with m: the breadth of this pass, or channel, varied between one and two miles. At nine o'clock, having run about ten miles, a break appeared in the innermost reef, m, through which we made an attempt to pass. As we approached it our soundings quickly decreased, yet still we hoped to effect our object; but suddenly shoaling the water to five fathoms, and at the next heave to ten feet and a half, with the coral rocks almost grazing the vessel's bottom, the helm was put down; fortunately she stayed and we escaped the danger. There was every appearance of a termination of the reef a few miles further to the north-east, but the glare of the sun was so deceptious that I preferred returning by the way we came; and having a leading fresh wind, we were by noon steering between the south-west end of the reef m and the woody islands 2 and 3 of Claremont Isles.

Between this and Cape Sidmouth several reefs were seen to seaward that we had not noticed last year. In passing the cape we kept nearer to the sandy islet 7 than before, and had not less water than seven fathoms.

August 12.

The next morning, having passed the night under Night Island, we resumed our course and steered round Cape Direction, with the intention of passing to windward of the long reef, f; but being prevented by its extending too much to the eastward to allow of our weathering it we bore up, and, passing to the eastward of Piper's Islands and of reef l, anchored under Haggerston's Island.

August 13.

As I did not intend running farther than Sunday Island for my next anchorage we did not weigh the following day until we had visited the island and obtained a meridional altitude for its latitude and sights for the time-keeper. It is about a mile and a half in circumference and forms a high rock of steep ascent; its windward side is clothed with a stunted brush, but the lee or north-west side is tolerably well wooded, and is fronted by a sandy beach, on which the traces of natives' fireplaces, scattered with fish-bones and turtle shells, were found in all directions. A considerable coral-reef extends to the northward, having some dry sandy keys at its north extremity. An extensive view of the neighbouring reefs and islands was obtained from the summit, particularly of the reefs n and o, and of the deep-water channel between them.

August 14.

Our next anchorage was under Sunday Island, and on the 14th we proceeded outside the Bird Isles and between two coral reefs, v and w, that appeared last year to be connected. Several reefs were also noticed to seaward that had escaped our observation last year, but they are all of small extent, and on the greater number there is a dry bank of sand which on some is bare, whilst others are covered with bushes and small trees.

As the day was too far advanced to permit us to pass round Cape York before night we anchored in the afternoon under Cairncross Island and spent the evening on shore. This island is low and wooded like the other and is not more than a mile in circumference. It is thickly covered with bushes and trees, among which Mr. Cunningham found a great many plants that interested him, particularly the bulbous roots of a species of pancratium, and some large specimens of Mimusops kauki in fruit, besides which he observed a remarkable tree which he has described in his journal by the name of Gueltarda octandra. "It is a strong luxuriant tree, having a stem six feet diameter, whose base is much like the spurred bulb of a tropical fig." (Cunningham manuscripts.)

The island is situated at the north-west end of the reef which is two miles and a half long and one mile broad, and composed like that of Pelican Island, of dead coral hardened by the weather and cemented by its own calcareous deposit into masses of compact rocks which, being heaped up by the surf, form a key that probably the high-tide scarcely ever covers. The interior is occupied by a shoal lagoon in which, although not more than two feet deep, our people saw a great variety of fish, and among them a shark five feet long, which, notwithstanding there was scarcely sufficient water for it to float in, contrived to escape. A few shells of the Voluta ethiopica and some clams (Chama gigas) were found, but neither sort was plentiful. The natives, as appeared from their traces, occasionally visit the island: our people found some deserted turtles' nests, and Mr. Cunningham saw a pigeon that appeared to be new; it was of large size and of black and white plumage: besides this no other bird was seen.

We now began for the first time to feel the effects of our accident at Port Bowen, for the tide, setting against the wind, caused a short swell, in which the cutter strained so much that she made two inches and a half of water per hour.

August 15.

At noon the next day we rounded Cape York; and, as we had last year taken the route to the northward of Wednesday Island, we now steered round the south side of Prince of Wales Islands through Endeavour Strait.

August 16.

And passing the night under one of the Possession Islands, Number 2, the next day reached Booby Island off which we anchored. On our course to the westward of Cape Cornwall and across the line of shoals that extend from it to Wallis Isles we had not less water than four fathoms.

In the afternoon we landed on Booby Island and at night procured turtles, and about a thousand eggs.

On the summit of the island, or rather the rock, several piles of stones were observed that had been heaped up by the crews of the various ships passing by, as relics of their visit: among other notices of a similar nature we found a board indicating the safe passage through the strait of the ship Sea-Flower, which our logbook informed us left Port Jackson on the 21st of last May; and from the memorandum on the board we found that she took the outer passage, entered Torres Strait at Murray's Island, and arrived off Booby Island, after a voyage of twenty-two days.

A good opportunity was here offered, by comparing our voyage with that of the Sea-Flower, of proving the superiority of the inshore route: the Mermaid left Port Jackson on the 12th July, and passed Booby Island on the 16th August, which is an interval of thirty-five days; from this fifteen must be deducted for the delays occasioned by the survey; namely, at Port Bowen two days, at Endeavour River nine days, at Lizard Island, Cape Flinders, Haggerston's Island, and the Possession Islands, one day each; this leaves twenty days for our passage, being two days shorter than the Sea-Flower's. This comparison therefore is in favour of the inshore route. But it is not only superior to the passage without the reefs, from its being shorter, there are also other advantages: the principal of which are that the weather is more generally fine; the sea is always perfectly smooth; and wood or water may be procured upon various parts of the coast: with only common attention there is no risk; and however laboriously the day may be spent the night is passed without disturbing the crew; for safe and good anchorage may be taken up every night under the lee of an islet or a reef, which in the event of bad weather may be retained as long as is requisite or convenient. No time is lost by the delay, for the anchor may be dropped in the ship's immediate track; and if the cargo consists of live animals such as horses, cattle, or sheep, grass may be obtained for them from the islands near the anchorage.

In the outer passage the sea is strewed with numerous reefs, many yet unknown,* which render the navigation at night extremely dangerous; and if, on approaching the part where it is intended to enter the reefs, the weather should be thick, and the sun too clouded at noon to procure an observation for the latitude, the navigator is placed in a very anxious and a very unenviable situation; for the currents are so strong that the position of the ship is by no means sufficiently known to risk running to leeward to make the reefs. The ensuing night must therefore in all probability be passed in the greatest uncertainty and in the vicinity of extensive coral reefs.

(*Footnote. When this sheet was in the press an account was published in one of the daily newspapers (Morning Herald 3rd of March 1825) recording the discovery of some low coral islands and reefs by the ship Avon, September 18, 1823, in latitude 19 degrees 40 minutes South, longitude 158 degrees 6 minutes East.)



CHAPTER 10. Cross the Gulf of Carpentaria, and anchor at Goulburn's South Island. Affair with the natives. Resume the survey of the coast at Cassini Island. Survey of Montagu Sound, York Sound, and Prince Frederic's Harbour. Hunter's and Roe's Rivers, Port Nelson, Coronation Islands. Transactions at Careening Bay. Repair the cutter's bottom. General geognostical and botanical observations. Natives' huts. Brunswick Bay. Prince Regent's River. Leave the coast in a leaky state. Tryal Rocks, Cloates Island. Pass round the west and south coasts. Bass Strait. Escape from shipwreck. Botany Bay. Arrival at Port Jackson.

1820. August 17.

We did not leave our anchorage off Booby Island until the next morning, in order that we might obtain sights for the watches, and have the advantage of daylight for passing over the position assigned to a shoal, said to have been seen by the ship Aurora. After weighing we steered West-South-West for sixty miles without seeing any signs of it; and on this course our soundings very gradually increased to thirty fathoms.

August 18 to 19.

On our passage across the Gulf of Carpentaria we had very fine weather but the horizon was enveloped in haze. The South-East monsoon was steady but very light; and the wind during the day veered occasionally to North-East, which might here be called a sea-breeze.

August 19.

On the 19th we passed Cape Wessel. Hence we steered for Goulburn Islands.

August 21.

And on the afternoon of the 21st anchored in South West Bay, off the watering-place, which was running very slowly; a hole was dug to receive the drainings.

August 22.

And the next morning we commenced operations, but, from the small supply of water, our progress was very slow.

The natives had not made their appearance, but knowing whom we had to deal with, every precaution was taken to prevent surprise: an armed party was stationed to protect the remainder of our people who were cutting down the trees which grew immediately over the watering-place on the brink of the cliff; and the officers and men were severally cautioned against straying away from the shore party without taking the precaution of carrying arms.

Mr. Hunter and Mr. Cunningham ranged about the island near our wooding party; the former gentleman shot for us several birds, among which was a white cockatoo that differed from the species that is common at Port Jackson in being smaller and having a very small white crest or top-knot without any yellow feathers in it: its mandibles and feet were white but the feathers on the under part of the wings had the usual yellow tinge.

Mr. Cunningham was successfully employed in adding to his collections, but the dry season was so far advanced and the country so parched up that everything bespoke the last season as having been unusually dry.

August 23.

On the following day, when our people resumed their occupation, they were again cautioned not to trust to the apparent absence of the natives. In the afternoon Mr. Roe walked along the beach with his gun in quest of birds: on his way he met Mr. Hunter returning from a walk in which he had encountered no recent signs of the Indians. This information emboldened Mr. Roe to wander farther than was prudent, and in the mean time Mr. Hunter returned to our party in order to go on board; he had however scarcely reached our station when the report of a musket and Mr. Roe's distant shouting were heard. The people immediately seized their arms and hastened to his relief and by this prompt conduct probably saved his life.

It appeared that, after parting from Mr. Hunter, he left the beach and pursued his walk among the trees; he had not proceeded more than fifty yards when he fired at a bird: he was cautious enough to reload before he moved from the spot in search of his game, but this was scarcely done before a boomerang* whizzed past his head, and struck a tree close by with great force. Upon looking round towards the verge of the cliff, which was about twenty yards off, he saw several natives; who upon finding they were discovered set up a loud and savage yell, and threw another boomerang and several spears at him, all of which providentially missed. Emboldened by their numbers and by his apparent defenceless situation, they were following up the attack by a nearer approach, when he fired amongst them, and for a moment stopped their advance. Mr. Roe's next care was to reload, but to his extreme mortification and dismay he found his cartouch box had turned round in the belt and every cartridge had dropped out: being thus deprived of his ammunition, and having no other resource left but to make his escape, he turned round and ran towards the beach; at the same time shouting loudly to apprize our people of his danger. He was now pursued by three of the natives, whilst the rest ran along the cliff to cut off his retreat.

(*Footnote. See Note above.)

On his reaching the edge of the water, he found the sand so soft that at every step his feet sunk three or four inches, which so distressed him and impeded his progress that he must soon have fallen overpowered with fatigue had not the sudden appearance of our people, at the same time that it inspired him with fresh hopes of escape, arrested the progress of the natives, who, after throwing two or three spears without effect, stopped and gave him time to join our party, quite spent with the extraordinary effort he had made to save his life.

Whilst this event occurred I was employed on board in constructing my rough chart, but upon Mr. Roe's being seen from the deck in the act of running along the beach pursued by the Indians, I hastened on shore, determined if possible to punish them for such unprovoked hostility. Upon landing, Mr. Hunter, Mr. Roe, and one of the men joined me in pursuit of the natives; but from our comparatively slow movements and our ignorance of the country, we returned after an hour without having seen any signs of them; in the evening before our people left off work we made another circuitous walk, but with the same bad success. The natives had taken the alarm and nothing more was seen of them during the remainder of our stay, excepting the smokes of their fires which appeared over the trees at the back of the island.

Previous to this attack upon Mr. Roe the natives had probably been following Mr. Hunter; and were doubtless deterred from attacking him by witnessing the destructive effects of his gun among a flight of cockatoos, five or six of which he brought away, and left as many more hopping about the grass wounded and making the woods re-echo with their screams. When Mr. Hunter parted from Mr. Roe the natives remained to watch the latter gentleman; and no sooner had he discharged his gun, which they found was of no use until it was reloaded, than they commenced their attack; and from the known dexterity of the natives of this country in throwing the spear it was not a little surprising that they missed him so repeatedly.

Before we embarked for the night I walked with Mr. Roe to the place where he was attacked, in order to look for the spears that had been thrown at him and for the cartridges he had lost; but as neither were found, we were revengeful enough to hope that the natives would burn their fingers with the powder, an event not at all unlikely to occur, from their ignorance of the dangerous effect of placing the cartridges near the fire, which they would be sure to do.

During our visit we were fortunate in having very fine weather; and although it was very hazy we did not experience that excessive heat which, from the advanced state of the season, had been expected. The thermometer ranged between 73 and 83 degrees; but the regularity and strength of the sea-breezes tended materially to keep the air cool and pleasant.

August 25.

On the 25th the gentlemen visited Sims' Island, where they found a considerable quantity of fresh water in holes that had apparently been dug for the purpose by the Malays. Among the insects which they brought back with them was a very fine species of cimex; it was found in great numbers upon the foliage of Hibiscus tiliaceus.

In the evening we left the bay.

August 26.

And the next morning passed to the northward of New Year's Island in order to avoid the calm weather which was experienced at the same season last year.

Off the entrance of Van Diemen's Gulf (Dundas Strait) we passed through large quantities of sea sawdust, some of which was put into a bottle; and when the process of putrefaction had taken place the substance sunk to the bottom and coloured the water with a crimson tinge.

1820. September 3.

After passing the meridian of Cape Van Diemen our course was directed towards Captain Baudin's Banc des Holothuries near Cape Bougainville; but being impeded by calms and light winds did not reach it until the 3rd of September, when we passed between its south-east extremity and Troughton Island. Before dark we passed over the north extremity of the long reef to the westward of Cape Bougainville.

September 5.

The following day at noon we were near Condillac Island, after which a sea-breeze from the westward enabled us to pass Cape Voltaire, at which point our last year's survey terminated. When we were within the Cape we found an ebb-tide setting out of a bight, which trended deeply in to the southward and appeared to be studded with rocky islands. This adverse tide continued to run all the evening and prevented our reaching the bottom; so that at sunset we dropped the anchor a few miles to the south of Cape Voltaire.

To the westward of this position we counted twenty-three islands, the northernmost of which were supposed to be the Montalivet Isles of Baudin. The whole have an uninteresting and rocky appearance but are not altogether destitute of vegetation: a greenish tinge upon the nearest islet saved them from being condemned as absolutely sterile.

September 6.

The next morning a boat visited the outer north-easternmost islet, named in the chart Water Island, which was found to be as rocky in reality as it was in appearance. It is formed of a hard granular quartzose sandstone, of a bluish-gray colour; the basis is disposed in horizontal strata but the surface is covered with large amorphous rocks of the same character that have evidently been detached and heaped together by some convulsion of nature: over these a shallow soil is sprinkled, which nourishes our old acquaintance spinifex, and a variety of plants of which Mr. Cunningham collected more than twenty distinct known genera. The exposed surfaces of the rocks are coloured by the oxide of iron, which is so generally the case upon the northern and north-western coasts that the name of Red Coast might with some degree of propriety be applied to a great portion of this continent.

Mr. Hunter found a large quantity of bulbous-rooted plants; they proved to be a liliaceous plant of the same species as those which we had before found upon Sims' Island, the islands of Flinders' Group on the eastern coast, and at Percy Island.

A meridional altitude of the sun was obtained on the north side of the island; and before we embarked the boat's crew found fresh water enough to fill our barica: this was so unusual a discovery that the island was complimented with a name which will serve rather to record the fact than to distinguish it as a place where so important an article of refreshment may be procured with certainty. In the rainy season a large quantity may always be obtained from cisterns, or holes, which were observed naturally formed upon the surface of the rocks.

The marks of a turtle were noticed upon the beach; and near them was the impression of a native's foot as well as the broken shells of some turtles' eggs which had very recently been eaten. This discovery set the boat's crew on the search for other nests but they were unsuccessful.

An extensive view of the surrounding islands was obtained from its summit, as well as a set of bearings for the survey of this Sound, which was named at Mr. Hunter's request after Robert Montagu, Esquire, Admiral of the White.

A sea-breeze set in before we left the island: upon arriving on board we got underweigh and at four o'clock anchored near the bottom of the bay (Swift's Bay) in the entrance of a strait separating Kater's Island from the main.

In the evening we landed upon the south-east end of Kater's Island and found it to be in character, both geologically and botanically, very similar to Water Island; excepting that there was more vegetation upon it in the shape of shrubs and trees. The surface of the ground was covered by spinifex, which rendered our walking both difficult and painful; this plant diffuses a strong aromatic odour, which quality it possesses, as it were, to counterbalance the annoying effects of its prickly foliage.

September 7.

The next day Mr. Bedwell examined a small inlet at the bottom of the bay. It proved to be merely a salt-water creek bounded by rocks and mangroves. Traces of natives were observed; and he brought on board with him the remains of a fish-pot, nine feet long, made of strips of Flagellaria indica, but so imperfect and disfigured that we could not readily convince ourselves either of its particular construction or use. In the evening we found a few gallons of water in a hollow near the beach upon the south shore of the strait. During Mr. Bedwell's absence a hot land-wind from South-East sprung up and raised the temperature to 90 degrees.

The peculiar verdure of the vegetation in all parts hereabout was a proof that this part of the country had suffered less from drought than the coast to the eastward. The traces of a small species of kangaroo were found in every part but our appearance had frightened them away. The food of this animal appeared to be principally the seeds and leaves of an acacia which they reach easily from the rocks.

Mr. Cunningham, who was as usual most indefatigable in adding to his collection, observed one of the large nests that have been so frequently before described. It was six feet in diameter, formed principally of sticks, among which was found a piece of bamboo about five feet long, that had evidently been cut at its extremities by a sharp-edged tool, probably by the Malays. Whatever the inhabitant of this nest might have been it was doubtless a bird of considerable size and power to have transported a stick of such a length.

September 8.

The next morning after Mr. Roe had sounded the strait that separates Kater's Island from the main we got underweigh and passed through it; and then rounding a high island named after Dr. W.H. Wollaston, we steered to the westward through a group of islets which were too numerous to be correctly placed in a running survey. To the westward of Wollaston Island is a deep bay which, from the broken appearance of the coast at the back, there is some reason to think may prove the embouchure of a small rivulet; but as it was not of sufficient importance to cause delay it was passed with the appellation of Mudge Bay. In the evening we anchored off an island named on account of the peculiar shape of a rock near the beach Capstan Island; and as it wanted yet an hour to sunset we landed and ascended the summit which, from its very rugged ascent, was no easy task. A view however from this elevated station, and an amplitude of the setting sun, repaid me for my trouble; and Mr. Cunningham increased his collection by the addition of some interesting plants and a few papers of seeds.

The distance that the French expedition kept from this part of the coast, of which M. De Freycinet so often and so justly complains, prevented it from ascertaining the detail of its shores: in fact very few parts of it were seen at all. Commodore Baudin's Cape Chateaurenaud must be some low island which we did not see, unless it was the outermost of our Prudhoe Islands.

Montagu Sound is bounded on the west by an island of considerable size which was named in compliment to John Thomas Bigge, Esquire, his Majesty's late Commissioner of Inquiry into the state of the colony of New South Wales. Bigge Island is separated from the main by a strait named after the Reverend Thomas Hobbes Scott, now Archdeacon of New South Wales, formerly Secretary to the above commission.

September 9.

The next morning we steered through Scott's Strait but not without running much risk on account of the muddy state of the water, and from the rocky nature of its channel. It was however passed without accident; but as the tide prevented our doubling Cape Pond the anchor was dropped, and the evening spent on shore upon a rocky island that fronts the Cape, from the summit of which an extensive set of bearings was taken. The land was observed to trend in very deeply to the southward of Cape Pond and the western horizon was bounded by a range of islands on which were two hills of sugarloaf form. This island, like Capstan Island, is a heap of sandstone rocks, clothed with the usual quantity of spinifex and small shrubs. A path of the natives was observed winding among the grass and on the beach were the marks of feet. The tide fell whilst we were on shore twenty-two feet.

September 10.

The next morning we steered round Cape Pond and entered the opening; but, the wind being contrary, we did not reach farther than Anderdon's Islands, where the night was passed.

September 11.

The next day we took advantage of the flood-tide and before high water anchored where the depth at low water was three fathoms. The tide subsequently rose twenty-eight feet.

We were now at the bottom of a very extensive harbour bounded by bold and irregular ranges of precipitous rocky hills, particularly on its eastern side, where three or four peaks were noticed, among which were Manning Peak and Mount Anderdon. Under these hills was the mouth of a large opening; and to the eastward of the anchorage we observed another of greater size but not so interesting in its appearance as the former.

The country hereabout, although equally rocky and rugged, is more wooded than that to the north-east; and from the number of fires that were burning there is reason to suppose it is more populous. We therefore prepared to examine the two openings in view, with sanguine expectations of finding something to repay us for the numerous disappointments we had already encountered.

September 12.

And the next morning Mr. Hunter accompanied me to explore the opening under Manning Peak whilst Mr. Roe and Mr. Cunningham embarked in another boat to examine the river that falls into the bottom of the bay.

After landing at the entrance of the opening we proceeded up a considerable reach, bounded on either side by precipitous rocks, in some parts from two to three hundred feet in height. This reach extends four miles; and being from five to seven fathoms deep, and more than half a mile wide, forms an excellent port: half way up on the north side is a wide inlet; probably the embouchure of a mountain stream, for it appeared to wind under the base of Manning Peak. We landed in many parts on search of fresh water but were on all occasions unsuccessful. At the end of this reach the river, for such it now appeared to be, gradually narrowed and wound with a more serpentine course under the base of the hills which still continued to be rugged and steep; but the banks were now thickly lined by mangroves, whereas in the first or sea reach they are formed principally of large rounded masses of rock that had been detached from the summits of the overhanging hills by the effect of the cascades, some of which must have fallen from a height of 200 feet without interruption in their descent. During the rainy season it would be dangerous to expose a vessel to the strength of the freshes in this river.

At the distance of six miles from the end of the first reach we arrived at the termination of the river where its width was not more than twenty-five yards. Here its bed was blocked up by large water-worn masses of sandstone and, as the boat could not proceed farther, we landed to await the turn of the tide.

About a mile below this part we had unexpectedly found a spring of fresh water bubbling up among the mangroves and yielding a very considerable quantity: whilst we were examining it the tide was nearly up so that we had only time to fill our barica and kettle before the salt water flowed over and mixed with it.

During our detention here we ascended the hills over the landing-place to examine the country; but on reaching the top after a rugged and difficult walk, higher hills obstructed our view in every direction. The bed of the river appeared to continue for some distance through a deep gully formed by precipitous hills. In the wet season this is doubtless a very considerable stream; and then perhaps the water is fresh as low as the upper part of the first reach. At this time the holes in the rocks were filled with fresh water but the tide flowed up as far as it was navigable for our boat. The trees on the tops and sides of the hills had lately been burned: in the shady parts however near the water, the shore was lined with several plants which had escaped destruction; among them was a species of nutmeg (Myristica insipida, Brown), a tree of twenty-five feet high (Maba laurina, Brown), and on the top of the hills and shelving places halfway down were observed several coniferous trees that resembled the Callitris ventenat, or Australian cypress, which grows in the interior of the colony at Port Jackson: they were at this season in fruit.

A steep peaked hill near our landing-place was named Donkin's Hill after the inventor of the preserved meats; upon a canister of which our party dined. This invention is now so generally known that its merits do not require to be recorded here; we had lately used a case that was preserved in 1814 which was equally good with some that had been packed up in 1818. This was the first time it had been employed upon our boat excursions and the result fully answered every expectation, as it prevented that excessive and distressing thirst from which, in all other previous expeditions, we had suffered very much.

On our return we landed at the spring. The tide had covered it; but upon searching another was found farther back among the mangroves, supplying at the rate of two to three gallons a minute; a discovery so valuable that the river was thought worthy of a name and it was called after my companion Mr. Hunter, who shared my pleasure in the gratification of finding what we had hitherto thought, at this season, totally wanting near the coast.

No signs of natives were observed, unless the country, having been lately fired, might indicate their having been in these parts; but, from the very rugged nature of the hills, it is not probable they frequent the neighbourhood of the river.

Kangaroos' tracks were seen and a small opossum observed skipping about the rocks. On our return down the river we landed on several parts where the depth of the gullies and the verdure of the trees indicated a probability of our finding fresh water, but in vain; not a drop was obtained.

On returning we were left by the ebbing tide upon a bank of mud; being however near low water, we had only to exercise our patience for two hours. We reached the vessel by eleven o'clock at night.

Mr. Roe did not return until sunset of the following day from his examination of the river which falls into the bottom of the port. When he left the cutter he pulled to a hill at the entrance of the river, which had been pointed out to him as probably affording an easy ascent and from which he would obtain a commanding view of the country to guide his proceedings. From this elevation the country around appeared to be very stony and barren, although he fancied there was some approach towards improvement; the banks of the river were low and lined with mangroves and intersected by many small saltwater inlets extending through the low country to the foot of the back hills; at low water the shore is fronted by a bank of mud, ten or twelve yards wide, and so soft as to prevent landing. Whilst he was employed at the summit of the hill in taking bearings, twelve natives with two dogs made their appearance on the opposite shore which was separated from the hill on which Mr. Roe landed by a soft mud flat. The natives attempted to cross to him, shouting loudly as they advanced, but when halfway over they desisted and slowly returned. When Mr. Roe descended he perceived several fresh prints of the human foot on the mud, from which he supposed that there were already some natives upon the island. There were several large fires burning in various directions and one was kindled by the natives on the opposite bank.*

(*Footnote. The natives of this part were seen by Tasman, according to the following note of Burgomaster Witsen, as published in Mr. Dalrymple's Papua. "In 14 degrees 58 minutes South, longitude 138 degrees 59 minutes (about 125 degrees East) the people are savage, and go naked: none can understand them.")

A snake about seven feet long was the only animal our party saw, but the dung of the kangaroo was as usual plentifully spread in all directions.

From this station, which was seven miles from the mouth, they followed the course of the river, first on an easterly direction for ten miles, and then it took a sudden turn to the southward and trended alternately South by East and South by West for fifteen miles; at this part the river was upwards of seventy yards wide; the banks were lined with mangroves but the rocks rose precipitously behind them to the height of three hundred feet. Here our party landed to pass the night, and before dark Mr. Roe and his companion Mr. Cunningham with one of the boat's crew climbed the ridge over their heads but encountered much difficulty before they reached the summit, from which they could discover nothing but ridges beyond ridges of rocky wooded hills, precisely similar to what they were upon. One higher than the rest was discerned about ten miles off to the eastward. No signs of human beings were noticed.

The top of the hill was strewed about with ant-hills constructed of dry dusty sand, and this was the only substance that could be called soil; but notwithstanding all this sterility there were trees of the eucalyptus family growing from twenty to forty feet high; and one was measured whose diameter was as much as eighteen inches.

The rocks are of sandstone, in nearly horizontal strata, coated with a crust of crystallized quartz and coloured by a ferruginous oxide.

On their return to the tent they made preparations to pass the night; and as it was prudent, if possible, to keep the boat afloat, one of the men was stationed in her for that purpose; but, overpowered by fatigue, he fell asleep and the boat in a short time was left dry upon the mud; the party on shore were continually disturbed during the night by what was thought to be the rushing of alligators into the water beneath them, but the noise was probably occasioned by stones and lumps of mud falling into it as the tide ebbed; a splash, however, that they heard on the opposite side was very likely an alligator, for they had seen one swimming as they pulled up the river. On hearing this Mr. Roe became very much alarmed on account of the boat-keeper, but no pains to apprize him of his danger had any effect: the only reply that could be got from him was, "Damn the alligators," and the next moment he was asleep again; fortunately for him no alligator came near enough to make him repent his foolhardy insensibility.

The width of the stream at low water, which was quite salt, was not more than twenty-five feet. When the flood commenced it came in so rapidly that the water rose five feet in ten minutes: altogether it rose twenty-four feet; but driftwood and dead branches of trees were noticed among the rocks at least fourteen feet above the ordinary high-water mark, indicating, at other seasons, the frequency of strong freshes or floods. One of the pieces of driftwood had been cut by a sharp instrument.

Mr. Roe further says, "From the appearance of the country and the steep hills, generally about three hundred feet high, among which this river winds, there can be little doubt of its being, during the rainy season, a considerable fresh-water stream; and as I consider the length of its various windings to be twenty-six or twenty-seven miles, there is every prospect of its being navigable for our boat for at least half that distance farther. Fish were plentiful, but principally of that sort which the sailors call cat fish; of these several were caught. Small birds were numerous, together with white cockatoos, cuckoos, some birds with very hoarse discordant notes, and one whose note resembled the beating of a blacksmith's hammer upon an anvil. At daybreak they all exerted themselves in full chorus, and I should then have proceeded farther, but the tide was half out, and a soft mud-bank forty feet broad fronting the shore cut off our communication with the boat."