En-Noor sent a message this morning by the slave of Makersee, that we were not to say a single word to any one, not even to our servants, about the money, or its amount, which we have paid him for our escort to Zinder. He says, "If the people hear of this money, they will all come down upon me for a portion; and if I do not comply with their wishes they will abandon us, and not go with us to Zinder, and I want as many of them to go with me as possible."

Our wealth is still noised abroad! The people believe all our boxes to be full of gold and silver. Even En-Noor sought for secret information respecting the amount of dollars which he supposed to be concealed amongst our baggage.

I was again restless when night came on, and was still awake when the moon was near setting, about three A.M., under tent, at which time suddenly I heard the wife of Said begin to squall, with the sound of the trampling of feet around my tent. I conjectured immediately what was up, "Another attack!" I repeated mechanically to myself, and getting up, began to dress myself. At first I thought our assailants were at some distance off, but when the boxes began to be drawn from around my tent I exclaimed, "Oh, oh, they are upon me, and are carrying off the things." Still I had become so accustomed to these attacks, or attempted attacks, by night and by day, that I felt quite indifferent, and began to dress myself as if nothing was the matter, or simply as if some one had called me up suddenly to breakfast, or that we were to start off early on our way.

I found my clothes, however, with some difficulty, and tore them a little in putting them on. At last I went out. All our people were up, as well as the Germans. On inquiring the news, I learned that a band of robbers had attacked us; from six to ten had been counted. My servants had all decamped, with the exception of Said. Some of them had been struck by the robbers, and others had been threatened, and had ran away. My servant Said, as soon as he sallied out and saw what was going on, seized his matchlock, and pointed it at the assailants, especially those who were removing the saharees (large square boxes). Upon this they began to quake, and, parleying with Said, begged for mercy, and said they would go immediately if the powder was not used against them. Said took them at their word, and they ran off. They had already, however, carried away about nine pounds of tea, packed in tin boxes. It is probable they mistook these boxes of tin for silver, or considered their contents to be money, gold and silver, although their lightness should have undeceived them. As the Arabic Bibles and Testaments were packed up with the tea, they carried off a Bible with them. But this they afterwards dropped on the road, and it was picked up by a shepherdess, and brought to me. They also took away a pewter dish and two bags of grounded ghaseb, besides ripping open the bags of the blacks. This appears to be the amount of the robbery and devastation; very fortunate are we it was not worse. We had watched many nights, and had often loaded our guns; but this night, when the thieves came, we were miserably unprepared to receive them. The Germans had been cleaning their guns, and all were unloaded. Overweg had his fowling-piece charged with small shot. At length we got two or three guns in trim, and our servants followed the robbers, but nothing of them was to be seen. The cowards had fled at the first show of resistance. In the morning, on searching through the small valley up which they had come, we were surprised to find marks of no less than thirteen camels—enough to carry away all our goods. So that it is probable there were some thirteen robbers, a part of whom remained with the camels whilst the others attacked us. Amankee, on being knocked down with a shield, got up again, and ran off to the town, giving the alarm everywhere.

En-Noor, as soon as the news of this aggression reached him, sent off a posse of people, and then called in the inhabitants of a neighbouring village; so that, when all was over, our encampment was surrounded by a disorderly multitude of protectors till day-light.

To my tent came the confidential servant of En-Noor, and everybody was talking, drinking coffee, and making merry. After all, it was well to have these people, for if the thirteen robbers had shown ordinary courage, in our unprepared state we should have had a good deal of work to do, and might some of us have got bad sword-cuts or spear-thrusts.

En-Noor, they say, is exceedingly angry about this attack, and has sent eleven mounted men after the robbers to seize their camels, which if he gets hold of he intends to confiscate. On Amankee calling on him he observed, "You, Amankee, being a native of Soudan, and not a Muslim of Tripoli, are like the Kailouees. You can fire on these Kailouee robbers. Get your gun loaded, ready for any other occasion."

At daylight, after lecturing my servants for not giving the alarm (for, with the exception of Said's wife, they were all so terror-stricken—literally struck dumb with terror—that they could not speak, much-less cry out), I sent Amankee off at the heels of the robbers. In all such emergencies I have found no one like Amankee; he is a complete bloodhound, and can scent his way through all the desert, and follow the steps of the most agile and quick-witted fugitive. I knew Amankee would pick up some of the tea and bring news of the robbers. He returned, and fulfilled my expectations: he picked up about six ounces of tea scattered on the road, and brought the news that the robbers were from Tidek and Taghajeet. They had come some days' journey to plunder us. I learned, also, that the rascals, just before they attacked us, had been feasting at a wedding in Tintalous.

I grieved very much for the loss of my tea, and employed six or seven hours in picking the stones out of what Amankee recovered. I had greatly coveted this luxury, and set my heart upon it; and now my idol was ruthlessly torn from me by a band of robbers! Amankee, knowing my feelings, had offered a reward for the rest, telling the people he saw on the road that the tea could only be drank by Christians, and was poison for Muslims! This fib drew from the astonished Kailouees a woful ejaculation—"Allah! Allah!" Many funny scenes were enacted during the few minutes of the attack of the robbers. The other negress, a wife of another of the servants, was quite dumb; but Said's wife crept around the tent like a dog, on her hands and feet, giving the alarm, but fearing to rise up lest she should be felled down by the robbers. The servants of the Germans hearing the squalling thought it was Said "beating his wife"—a thing common in these countries. Dr. Barth heard all sorts of noises, but imagined they were all from the celebration of the wedding. It is always well to examine suspicious circumstances. A strange camel had been seen straying at sunset near our tent, which excited the suspicions of myself and Dr. Barth. If we had obeyed our presentiments, we might have discovered the intended attack, or, at least, have made some preparations.

A few robbers have often visited us before this. When I had an interview with En-Noor I asked for a couple of guards, but he refused them, on the plea that they were unnecessary. Although he knew well the country is now full of thieves, and told us so, he never expected this audacious attack of thirteen maharees! Soudan abounds with thieves, and we must now always keep watch. May we, however, in our further progress, have nothing more to fear than petty larceny; and we shall have reason indeed to be thankful!



CHAPTER XVIII.

We shift our Encampment—En-Noor's Circular—The Kadi's Decision—No Progress in the Sahara—Aghadez Gumruk—Scorpions—Election of Sultans in Aheer—Present of Salutation—Paying for finding lost Property—Courier from the new Sultan—No Presents sent us—Notes on Denham—A Bornouese Measure—Intended Razzia—Firing off Gunpowder—Hypotheses of Danger—Dress and Women—Enroute to Bilma—Soudan Caravan—Visit from Tintaghoda—Aheer Honey—Modes of Measurement—Power of En-Noor—Visits to him from great People—Stations on the Bilma Road—Salt-Trade—Account of our Pursuers at Tajetterat—Costume of the Kailouees—Their Weapons—Poisoned Arrows—Charms—Female Dress—Names of Articles of Costume—Character of Kailouees.

Sept. 17th.—In the morning En-Noor sent a message that we must immediately move from our present encampment on our sand-hills, a quarter of a mile from the town, where we had a pleasant view of everything in the valley and around, and come near the people. So in the course of the day we pitched tents close by the houses of the town. We found that we were not so much molested by the inhabitants (i.e. by their curiosity) as we expected.

I had heard in the previous evening that En-Noor, two or three days ago, had written, by means of one of the learned men of this place, to all the towns and villages around him, begging the Sheikhs and people not to offer us any molestation whilst we were residing here, under his immediate protection, as his guests, and as sacred persons recommended to his care. This shows good-will in the venerable Sultan. He sent to us this morning the result of the Kadi's decision, respecting the robbers. This singular question was put to the Kadi, "Whether it was lawful to rob and murder the Christians by night?" Answer, "No; on the contrary, the Christians may fire on and kill the Muslim robbers." The Sultan, it appears, attaches great importance to this decision, and counts on it to obtain the suffrages of all his people in our favour.

Such are the circumstances attending the first visit of Christians to Aheer! I believe this attack will do our servants good. They see now, that, by a little resistance, the most audacious of thieves will be put to flight. We ourselves shall also keep better watch for the future.

18th.—I finished to-day a vocabulary of the Kailouee language. I endeavour also to divert my mind from the many causes of annoyance that now exist, by studying the records of the Denham and Clapperton expedition. We shall soon be amidst the same countries that they explored, and, no doubt, shall find that little has changed in the manners of the people during these last thirty years. Neither in the Desert nor in the kingdoms of Central Africa is there any march of civilisation. All goes on according to a certain routine established for ages past.

A courier has just arrived from the new Sultan of Aghadez, demanding the gumruk, or custom-dues, from the caravan of Christians who have entered Aheer. As if we had not already paid enough! After two or three weeks of incessant solicitation, by the way, I gave Es-Sfaxee, Yusuf, and Mahommed, a small bottle of rum—the first, and it shall be the last; for they got drunk and quarrelsome upon it.

19th.—This day I took a walk over the neighbouring rocks, whence there is a wide view over the whole surrounding valley. I have omitted to observe, that at our former place of encampment were seen many scorpions; so that here these reptiles inhabit the open country equally with the ruins of old houses or mosques, and such places. Under one of my boxes was also discovered a lefa, the most dangerous species of serpent in these countries.

It appears that most of the caravans that pass through this country are obliged to pay a certain gumruk to the prince of Aghadez. The relations of the lesser Sheikhs of Aheer with the paramount sultan are of this kind. When a sultan dies, or is displaced, they assemble like the College of Cardinals, or rather like the old Polish nobility, to elect a new one. It is the law that this Sultan of Aghadez must be a stranger. When once chosen he is invested with something like absolute authority throughout all Aheer, and he alone possesses the dreaded power of "cutting off heads." En Noor has sent this morning what is called "the present, of salutation," which he determined to despatch to Abd-el-Kader, the new Sultan of Aghadez, instead of the immense gumruk demanded. The present consists of one Egyptian mattrass; two white turbans with red borders; a piece of white muslin for making light turbans; two shasheeahs, or red caps; two small gilt-framed looking-glasses; and a few beads of glass and earthen composition; one pound of jouee, or perfume for burning; a small packet of simbel, an aromatic herb used for washing the body; and two heads of white sugar. This composed what may be called the official present for the district of Tintalous. En-Noor added, from himself, two camels, a piece of silk for a gown, and various other little things.

Whilst these magnificences are going on, we are enjoying the comfortable reflection that all our losses are gains to other people, whether they be friends or enemies.

I had as much trouble to satisfy the parties who found the Arabic Bible as if I was purchasing their own property, and not rewarding them for accidentally finding some of my lost goods. Finally, however, I arranged to give them two cotton-printed handkerchiefs and a small quantity of spices. This was more than enough. These rewards for finding our lost property naturally impels our friendly people, either to rob us themselves or to wish that others may rob us, that they may have something to gain by attempting to recover our lost things. What we had to pay for the recovery of each of our camels was almost as much as some of them were worth.

The weather has been dry and hot for the last few days; at noon the thermometer rose to 100 deg. under the tent. Suddenly it became cloudy, and a few drops of rain began to patter down. There was every appearance of a storm, and our people began to collect towards the tents. At this time another courier arrived from the new Sultan, Abd-el-Kader, of Aghadez, respecting us. His highness says:—"No one shall hurt the Christians: no one shall lift up a finger against them; and if they wish to come to my city, I shall be very happy to receive them." This courier arrived so quickly after the other, that I suspect his highness may be spelling for a large present; or he may have just heard of the bad treatment we have received, and being a new man has determined to afford us some reparation. Little reliance, however, can be placed on these professions, until we know something more of the character of Abd-el-Kader. It is certainly a great disappointment for us that we do not go to Aghadez. I am afraid that this will be the case with many other important cities.

The Es-Sfaxee wished to have a feast to celebrate the arrival of this good news, but I cannot join in such a demonstration. We have little cause for rejoicing at the conduct of the people of Aheer. En-Noor has not yet sent us a sah of ghaseb; or a drop of samen or a sheep's head. Never did travellers visit a country in Africa, without receiving some mark of hospitality of this kind from the chief or sovereign of the place.

In the evening a fellow came and asked us if we could sell him a veneese (a dressing-gown) in exchange for ghaseb. After some trouble we fixed the bargain. Said was fool enough to give him the veneese before he brought the merchandise, the fellow promising to bring it the next morning. During the night he fled with his booty on the road to Aghadez. Amankee went in pursuit of the fugitive, seized him on the road, and brought back the veneese: for such matters there is no one equal to Amankee.

20th.—Denham compares the berries of the suak (suag) to cranberries. Zumeeta is called parched corn; it should be parched ground corn. Gafouley is called guinea-corn. The green herb with which bazeen is generally seasoned is called melocheea (ochra). There are, however, various herbs for this seasoning, though all of them have a similar flavour. I confess, myself, I do not much like the flavour; it is, like that of olives, an acquired taste. Bazeen may be called flour-pudding.

Gubga is a Bornouese measure, eight draas (or lengths of the lower part of the arm, from the elbow to the tips of the fingers) in length and one inch and a half broad. Denham, who spells it gubka, says it is about one English yard. The eight draas would be, however, nearly three yards. This measure is applied to white, coarse, native-woven cotton, and a piece of cotton eight draas long and one inch and half broad is a gubga. This is the money of Bornou; it must be a most inconvenient currency, but habit accustoms us to everything.

It is reported in town, that En-Noor intends shortly to make a razzia on the towns where we were plundered: he says, perhaps justly, "The tribes have 'tasted' fine burnouses, more especially their sheikhs; and emboldened by their success, and the attractiveness of the rich vestments, they will now plunder all the caravans." This is another reason why strong representations should be made to the Pasha of Mourzuk to grant us redress. En-Noor can seize camels and sequester them; he can also seize men: but he must afterwards send them to Aghadez for trial. This razzia, however, will not come off yet.

A storm of wind, with at little rain as usual, visited us in the afternoon. It then cleared up, and was fine all the evening.

The Es-Sfaxee, heading our servants, was determined to fire away a little gunpowder this evening though much against my inclination. After they had been firing near the tents, En-Noor sent for them to fire at the doors of his house. The old Sheikh is now waxing mighty civil, and swears that we are his walad (children). We shall see what we shall see. Yusuf even thinks he can be persuaded to sign the treaty. All the Kailouees are very fond of powder, and also very much alarmed at it. They say they could themselves make plenty of powder if saltpetre were found them.

21st.—It appears that some of the districts of Damerghou are included within the circle of Aheer, and that the Kailouees exercise authority there. En-Noor has a house there.

Overweg's three hypotheses of danger south of Bornou are:—

1. To be stripped of everything by robbers, and left naked in the wilderness.

2. To be devoured by wild beasts.

3. To be forced to traverse a desert where there is no subsistence for man or beast. Indeed, after the experience we have had up this road, although a Tuarick road (and Tuaricks are not supposed to have a peculiar antipathy to Christians), it will be next to suicide to proceed far south without adequate guides and protection.

The two predominant passions of men in all these Tuarick countries, especially Aheer, are for dress and women. A few only are tainted by fanaticism, and fewer still are misers; because, probably they have nothing to save. Of the character of the women I cannot speak, for want of experience; the few we have met with have begged mostly for trinkets, and looking-glasses, but we have seen little of the love of intrigue.

About Aheer, the Bornou and Soudan routes appear not to be far apart. The Tibboos make Kisbee to be only eight days from Aghadez. The Kailouees also state that Bilma (or Boulouma, in their pronunciation) is only seven or eight days of good travelling from Tintalous; but the salt-caravans always employ fourteen days, arriving at Bilma on the fifteenth.

Yesterday afternoon a portion of a large Soudan caravan arrived. A number of bullocks were amongst its beasts of burden; one of these had immense branching horns, and, according to the report of Said's wife, was of the same species as those found in her country, Kanemboo, near Bornou. These bullocks seemed to be in every respect trained like horses, and some of them carry a burden of four cantars.

22d.—I rose early, to prepare my despatches for Mourzuk and England. To-day not much wind, only a little refreshing breeze. The wind, which appears to visit us daily instead of the rain, generally begins about an hour after noon, and continues to blow in fitful gusts until three or four P.M. when it gradually sinks. The evenings are perfectly calm, though not always cloudless.

Yesterday five maharees arrived from Tintaghoda, mounted by persons who came to inquire after the health of En-Noor. They left early this morning. Somehow or other these maharees always look suspicious to me. The injuries we have received make us suspicious.

I ate some honey of Aheer to-day. It has a most treacley taste, and, in truth, is not unlike treacle, not having the delicate flavour of honey. It has purgative qualities. They boil it on the fire, and so spoil it.

I wrote to-day to Viscount Palmerston, to Mr. Gagliuffi, and my wife, sending also specimens of the Kailouee language, and the journal of Yusuf, describing the route from Ghat to Aheer—altogether a good parcel.

The Arabs and Moors try to measure everything by portions of their body. The draa, a measure from the elbow to the tips of the fingers, is in universal requisition. The fathom, signified by the arms extended on both sides the body, is not so frequently in use. The sun is often said to be so many fathoms high. If we attended a little more to these natural measures it might be well, although the human body being so various in size we could never be correct, and then we might lose sight of those artificial means of measuring objects which distinguish us from the semi-barbarian Arabs.

This evening I heard from Es-Sfaxee a more favourable account of the power of En-Noor. It would appear that En-Noor is the aged Sheikh, the Sheikh Kebeer, of the Kailouees, whom all respect, and to whom all look up in cases of difficulty and distress. With En-Noor always authority remains, whilst all the other Sheikhs are being changed—some every year. En-Noor, nevertheless, appears to be a great miser, continually amassing wealth in money, merchandise, or camels. He is also reported to have four hundred horses in Damerghou, a district of which is subjected to him.

At the present time he is constantly receiving visits from the surrounding Kubar, "great people," inquiring after his health, and bringing presents. Whilst he thus amasses treasure, he feeds a number of dependants a little above the starvation point; and this standing army suffices for his executive. Several of the princes of Aheer are expected to visit the new Sultan of Aghadez, and compliment him on his accession. The exact name of the new Sultan is now said to be Kadaree Ben El-Bagharee.

23d.—I rose early, to send off the despatches. They are sent to Asoudee, where there is a caravan just arrived from Kanou. Among the persons composing it are some Mourzuk people, who will take charge of the despatches. This caravan stays a few days in Asoudee, when it will leave direct for Mourzuk, and arrive at this latter city in the course of two months and a-half.

I have just received an account of the route of the salt-caravans from Tintalous to Bilma:—

From Tintalous to Asaughar Five days. " Fakramah One day. " Kāwār One day. " Boulouma One day.

The mediate time occupied is said to be between eight and fourteen days. The three stations mentioned between Tintalous and Bilma have wells of water. There is also an abundance of herbage all along the route for camels. The direction of the route is always east, over a flat country (probably through wadys); although, my informant adds, there are no mountains. The salt is found in small lakes. The people amass it with the water, and make of it round cakes; the water runs away, and the cakes become hard and dry. It is then packed up in camel-loads. A large camel-load pays to the Tibboos half a metagal, or about ninepence English money. It is thus evident that the Tibboos do derive a revenue from their salt, contrary to what was stated by them to Major Denham. Since his time, however, this people have found themselves in a better condition to enforce this impost on the Kailouee salt-merchants than they were formerly.

The caravan of Ghat Tuaricks brought here the news, a few days ago, that no less than four hundred people, fractions of the tribes of the Azgher, consisting of men, women, and children, followed us as far as Tajetterat to see what they could get from the Christians. When they arrived at the wells, to their great disappointment we were gone. Some of them were nearly naked, having only a piece of leather round their loins. Our sending for an escort from Mourzuk seems to have aroused the whole country; all these poor wretches expected, at least, a little hamsa from the Christians, who were reported to have a long train of camels laden with gold and silver, and all sorts of rich goods. I do not doubt the correctness of this news; it is so perfectly Targhee in its kind: but the report of sixty maharees pursuing us from the Haghar desert was always doubted by me.

There is now news of my stolen tea, and a chance of my getting some of it back again, the robbers confessing to their friends that they do not know what to do with such "herbage," as they call it: it is quite useless to them.

The Kailouees and Tuaricks generally do not like beards, and cut off the hair of the upper lip quite close. Indeed, wearing as they do the thilem, the beard and the mustachios are completely hidden. The Kailouees leave the crown of the head, which is close shaved, as in the case of the Mahommedans of the coast, quite bare, exposed to the sun and weather. Around the lower part of the head they wind a long narrow strip of black cotton stuff (called rouanee in Soudanee), which is continued round the face, upper and lower part, and forms the thilem, only about an inch breadth of the face being exposed or visible; that is, the portion including the eyes and bridge of the nose. The generality of the Kailouees wear, besides, a tobe, or long broad cotton frock (or rather shirt, for nothing is worn under it at the upper part of the body), with immensely wide sleeves. Those a little better off also wear trousers, very wide about the loins, narrow at the legs, and drawn round the waist with a belt. All use leather sandals, strong and thick; some of them are prettily made. The whole of this apparel is imported from Soudan, there being apparently no manufactures in Aheer.

The arms of the men,—for all go armed with some weapon,—are a dagger under the left arm, a sword slung on the back, and a spear in the right hand. The spear-shaft is wood, whilst those of the Ghat Tuaricks and Haghars are frequently metal, of the same substance as the point of the weapon. These iron spears are said to be manufactured by the Tibboos. They are much more formidable weapons than the spears with wooden shafts. When mounted on their maharees, all the Kailouees have shields made of the tanned skins of animals, generally of the wild ox (bugara wahoosh). To these arms the people in Aheer now begin to add matchlocks, which are sent up from the coast. The sword is not worn on the back when riding, but hangs down on the right-hand side, sheathed in a fantastic leather cage.

A few of the poorer sort of Kailouees appear with bows and arrows. The latter they carry in very close bundles, so well packed up that not one can separate from the other. They told me they were poisoned, and would not let me touch them. Amongst the accomplishments of the Gighis and magicians of Africa is that of poisoning arrows. The pagan nations are generally very expert in this

"dreadful art, To taint with deadly drugs the barbed dart."

The younger and more fashionable Kailouees wear round their necks, and hanging down over their breast, a large necklace of charms sewn in leather bags. Some also wear a sort of cloth cap, called bakin zakee, of a green colour, round which they bind the turkadee, or black turban. On this cap they also occasionally wear charms, done up in small metal boxes. Their camels are very fantastically dressed in leathern trappings.

The great men, and indeed all those that can afford it, despise the simple Kailouee costume, and indulge in all the rich dresses which are so much liked by the Moors of the coast,—burnouses, shasheeahs, turbans, veneeses, caftans, tobes of silk, &c.

The dress of the women whom we see about is a simple cotton tobe, covering them from neck to heels. The colour of these tobes is generally blue-black, dyed with indigo; some are glazed with gum. Many, however, are white, and ornamented in front about the neck with silken embroidery,—a costume which gives them a very chaste and elegant appearance. Sometimes the tobes are variegated in colour, as are the trousers; but the sombre, or pure white, are the most popular.

I have set down the Kailouee names for various articles of dress as well as weapons:—

Green cloth cap Bakin zakee. Turban, or bandage round the head and face Taghalmous. Red or other caps Takabout. Frock and shirt Teekatkat. Trousers Eskarbaee. Sandals Eghateema. Dagger Azegheez. Sword Alagh. Spear Ebzaghdeer. Shield Aghar. Arrow Amour. Bow Takanya. Leathern bag for tobacco, pipe, needles, thread, scissors, looking-glass, and other small things,—nicknacks Elbes. Charm Sheera.

I can scarcely yet venture to pronounce an opinion on the character of the Kailouees. They decidedly differ from the Haghar and Azgher Tuaricks, in being more civil and companionable. But they seem to have acquired from Soudan the habit of petty thieving, from which the Haghars are especially free.



CHAPTER XIX.

Rainstorm—Overtures from En-Noor—Another Interview—Aheer Fashions—A great Lady—Hoisting the British Flag—A devoted Slave—Sultan of Asoudee—Attack on a Caravan—Purposed Razzia—Desert News—Buying Wives—A peculiar Salutation—Oasis of Janet—New Razzias—Costume of the Sultan—The Milky Way—Noise at a Wedding—Unquiet Nights—Sickness in the Encampment—A captive Scorpion—Nuptial Festivities—An insolent Haghar—Prejudice about Christians—Movements in Aheer—Bullocks.

Sept. 24th.—We had a good deal of wind yesterday, but no appearance of rain. This morning was fine, clear, and warm; but just after noon a sudden fall of rain came, followed, within five minutes, by a tempest of thunder, lightning, rain, and hail, which broke immediately over our heads, and carried away our small tents. Even my Bornou tent, having been dried up by the recent weather, admitted the rain, and several of our things were wetted. The tempest itself did not last more than fifteen or twenty minutes; and by the time the moon rose in the evening, all clouds had cleared away, and the heavens were as pure as in the morning. I may observe that the rain is less disagreeable to me than the clouds of sand-dust, with which we are at other times persecuted. The fine particles cover and pervade everything, and getting between the skin and the flannel, produce an irritation like the pricking of needles.

This day Yusuf brought a message from En-Noor, to the effect that he had heard from various people that I had brought a sword for him from the Queen of England, and also a letter from Her Majesty. He added: "I trust I have done nothing to offend the Consul or his companions; and I pray that there may be nothing between us but good feeling and justice—no lying, nothing but truth and fair dealing."

It now seemed to me that a good opportunity had arrived for introducing the subject of the treaty; and I determined to make an effort, being convinced, from recent transactions between En-Noor and his brother chieftains, that he exerts paramount influence in Aheer; so that it may be of considerable benefit to Christian travellers that a treaty of amity and commerce should be signed by him. Yusuf therefore prepared a treaty in Arabic, and I one in English. This done, I caused En-Noor to be informed of our intentions, and, taking with me a sword, went to visit him with some anxiety.

We found the Sultan, in company with half-a-dozen people; he received us in a very friendly manner, and really seemed on this occasion to be what he professes to be, the friend and Consul of the English. I explained to him, that we certainly had this treaty ready for him, and intended to have presented it to him on our arrival; but on account of our sufferings and the robberies committed on us, and seeing the country in a state of revolution, I had no heart to present to his highness anything from the Queen of England. However, now that things were more settled, and as I saw there was authority in the country, I had much pleasure in proposing for his signature a treaty from my Government. At the same moment, as an incentive, I presented the sword (a small naval officer's sword, with a good deal of polished brass and gilding about it, of the value, at most, of five pounds). To my great satisfaction, his highness accepted both treaty and present with ardent manifestations of pleasure. He made me read the document in English, to hear the sound of our language; and he also desired me to leave with him an English copy. This we did, with some explanation of the contents in an Arabic letter on the back. We then took our copy in Arabic. The sword pleased him greatly, on account of its lightness, for he is an old man, not very strong; and because it glittered with gold. We wrote the maker's name in Arabic, and gave directions to have it well preserved. He inquired after Drs. Barth and Overweg, and seemed to take great interest in our welfare.

In the midst of our conversation a lady, one of the Sultan's female relations, came, moved no doubt by curiosity, into the room. She was evidently a fine dame, a person of fashion in this Saharan capital. Her countenance, in due obedience to the requirements of ton, was not "rouged up to the eyes," but "yellowed up to the eyes!" There cannot be a more appalling custom. Imagine a young lady, of brown-black complexion, daubed with brilliant yellow ochre! The paint covers the whole face, from the roots of the hair to the lower jaw, forming two semicircles with the upper lips. Between the eyes are three black beauty-spots, descending perpendicularly on the bridge of the nose. The eyebrows are blackened, and joined, so as to form one immense arch across the face, under the yellow brow. Is it possible to disguise the human countenance more completely?

The dark-blue cotton skirt of this lady was turned up behind over her head, so as to form a kind of hood; but underneath she wore a coloured petticoat. Generally, the women of Tintalous wear a frock, or chemise, and a piece of cotton wrapper over their head and shoulders.[18] This wrapper, which serves as a shawl, is not unlike, in effect, the black veil worn by the Maltese women. The lady we saw at En-Noor's wore a profusion of necklaces, armlets, and anklets of metal, wood, and horn. She gazed about for some time and then went her way. After asking and receiving permission to hoist the British flag over the tents, and to fire a salute, we imitated her example. This is my first success in diplomacy! On returning, we prepared for our evening's festivities, but the tempest assailing us we waited till fairer weather.

[18] Answering to the gown and head-veil of the fellahs.—Ed.

At five in the evening we hoisted the British flag, and fired no less than a hundred musket discharges. I do not recollect that this ceremony was ever before performed in the desert, in Bornou or Soudan, although the union-jack certainly now flies at Mourzuk and Ghadamez, on the roofs of the consular houses.

Now I pray God that our great troubles may be over in Aheer—little troubles we must always encounter, and bear with fortitude. Our servants and friends are much rejoiced at our success with En-Noor, and they promise me farther success in Soudan and Bornou. Alas! God alone knows what is reserved for us; but we must not despair after these, events of Aheer. At first all was black, without one solitary ray of light; now, all the Sultans of Aheer are determined they say, conjointly, to afford us protection: whilst the people are showing themselves more friendly every day.

A strange thing is a devoted slave. Zangheema is the devoted slave of En-Noor. He is his right hand, his man of business, his vizier, his shadow, his second self. Alternately Zangheema attends the marts of Mourzuk and Kanou; and, fortunately for us, he is now going to Kanou.

25th.—Whilst we were occupied in drying our clothes after the previous day's tempest, we learned that another Sultan had put himself on the list of beggars. His Excellency Astakeelee of Asoudee has written a long letter to En-Noor, of which we are the subject. The substance is that it is a sin (haram) to plunder us Christians. En-Noor says we must send him some trifle as a present. There remain yet to come Lousou and some others. I am glad we are not expected to give much in these cases, as our means would not allow us to do so. I sent to Astakeelee a red cloth caftan or long loose gown, a white turban, a fez, a small looking-glass, and a few cloves for the Sultana, the total value about twelve dollars.

Serious news has just come in from the northern frontier. It appears that the Azgher who followed us all the way from Aisou to Aheer, secretly exciting the people against us, have joined with the Kailouee borderers in an attack upon a small Tibboo caravan. Two of the merchants have been killed, and thirty-five slaves stolen and carried away over the desert, in the direction of Tuat.

This news was brought in the afternoon by a caravan of Fezzanees, who have arrived from Ghat. They declare that they buried the bodies of the two murdered men. A servant who escaped gave them the rest of the news. It is probable that the Tibboos made considerable resistance on the road, as they are brave fellows, and this resistance occasioned their being murdered. The news has produced great excitement.

The people begin to see the evil effects of countenancing the forced exactions made upon us. This will be an instructive lesson to the holy marabouts of Tintaghoda, who headed the tribes of the frontier against us unfortunate Christians.

When we met these very small caravans on the road, with only two owners, three or four servants, and some forty or fifty slaves, and all without arms, or perhaps with only a couple of swords, I used to wonder at their apparent security, and could not help observing, when we were night and day pursued by bandits, "These robbers must have an extraordinary affection for Muslims, and be very Deists themselves; for these few defenceless people pass unmolested, and we are pursued continually, although our caravan is full of arms."

En-Noor and the new Sultan of Aghadez have been talking loudly of a razzia to the north; they will now see its absolute necessity, unless the route between Aheer and Ghat is to be closed, except for very large caravans.

The Fezzanees who left Ghat nineteen days after us also say that before they started the news had arrived there that the Christians were all murdered by the people of Janet. They add, besides, that they met Waldee at Tajetterat, together with the people of Janet, amounting to seventy maharees, all encamped there. If true, probably these were the Tuaricks, with whom we were menaced at Taghajeet. The people of Janet were in pursuit of us. Waldee persuaded them to retrace their steps, declaring, which indeed was the truth, that the Christians were by that time arrived in the country of En-Noor, and were consequently beyond their pursuit. The bandits hearing this, immediately returned.

The Fezzanees praise the exertions which Waldee made on our behalf. Hereafter we shall be able, if we live, to verify this intelligence. It seems doubtful that the people of Janet should be nine days too late for us. However, our informants declare they gave the brigands victuals and a few presents.

I suppose that the grossly-exaggerated accounts which have been spread as to the vast sums that Hateetah and Wataitee got from us had much to do in getting up this fermentation in the desert of Ghat. We knew already that all the tribes and sheikhs were jealous of our escort. I must renew my application to Gagliuffi for the restitution of the property of the British Government; if not, the people who form the proposed razzia will divide it amongst themselves.

26th.—En-Noor has sent me word this morning that I may make myself quite at home in his city, and have nothing whatsoever to fear. Moreover, he begs to inform me that he has sent for our lost camels to the districts where they are supposed to be detained, with a peremptory order, that if they are not immediately given up they are to be seized by force, and if not found, other camels are to be confiscated instead of them. This may be the first effect of the slaughter of the Tibboos. It is quite clear, however, that En-Noor is bound in honour to recover for us our lost beasts of burden; their detention must otherwise disgrace his authority.

As soon as a Moor or an Arab gains a little money, he begins in the first place to buy a new wife. The merchants, especially those who traverse the Sahara, have a wife and an establishment at all the principal cities. When they have half-a-dozen of these establishments they are then great men. Es-Sfaxee has gained a little money by our misfortunes, and he now begins to talk of buying a young slave for a wife, and what not, to attend him on the road. But no sailor, who sails the waters of the world through and through, and has a lass at every port, manages matters so well as the travelling Moorish merchant. This Moor has his comfortable home in every large city of the interior of Africa, and no one inquires whether he exceeds the number fixed by the law of the Prophet or not. Indeed, no one knows how many wives he has, or where they are.

Ferajee, of the escort, had a particular salutation, by which he used always to address me. It continues to be repeated by some of our people: "Othrub Gonsul! Fire off the gun, O Consul! Othrub Gonsul!" This salute I always heard when Ferajee was in a good humour, and now it is used to signify that our affairs are looking up.

According to a Tanelkum, Janet is entirely peopled by Azgher or Ghat Tuaricks, and members of the tribe of Aheethanaran, who now live on good terms with the Azgher. This tribe is scattered about as far as Falezlez. It was the people of the same tribe who formed a razzia expedition against us. The oasis of Janet, however, is not independent. It is subject to Shafou; but has a local government of its own.

Every day brings the news of a new razzia. This morning it is reported that some brigands of Oulimid who inhabit a district beyond Aghadez, came down upon the people of Aghadamou, a place five days from Tintalous, on the route of Soudan, destroyed their houses, and carried away a great number of their camels. Aghadamou is represented to be a wady, with a number of huts scattered about. I had not heard of this place before as being on the Soudan route.

In the afternoon En-Noor walked out, and came up to me and saluted me. As I passed by his highness I had an opportunity of noticing his dress. He wore over the body a plain blue-checked Soudan robe, with trousers of a similar material; on his head was a red cap bound round with a blue-black bandage (turkadee), in the form of a turban, but also brought, according to the invariable custom of the Tuaricks, over and under the eyes. His shoes were the common Soudan sandals; and thus, with a long wand, or a white stick, he proceeded with a slow-measured pace through the streets of the town. A dependant followed the Sultan at a short distance, but the absence of an escort proclaimed how deep-rooted was his authority.

To-day, for the first time, En-Noor sent to buy something of us, viz. a loaf of white sugar. As Overweg is going to Asoudee under the protection of En-Noor, I gave him the loaf of sugar, and told him to send it, on his part, as a present to the Sheikh, and at the same time to ask him to get his escort ready.

The Fezzanees call the Milky Way, which appears at this season nearly overhead early in the evening, "the road of the dates," it being now the time in which the dates ripen.

Late in the evening a troop of twenty maharees came riding straight up to our tents. Although none of our people were gone to bed, although all were up and about talking, not a single person saw them coming but myself; and I only saw—none of us heard, so noiselessly did they steal over the sand. This troop merely came in to bait for the night. They, however, brought some person with them who is about to be married to a woman of Tintalous.

27th.—I rose early, having slept little on account of noises of various sorts, which continued all night long. First, there was a drum perpetually beating, announcing rudely enough the approaching nuptials; then there was a cricket singing shrill notes at my head; and then there was the screech-owl making the valley of Tintalous ring again with its hideous shriek. Add to all, between the roll of the big noisy drum, the cries and uproar of the people. This morning there are groups of people squatting all about. Two maharees are riding round and round one group. Before another is a man dancing as indelicately as a Moorish woman of the coast.

News of still another razzia ushers in the day. A small caravan, it is reported, was attacked a few days ago, on the route between this and Zinder. The principal merchant was killed, and all the goods and slaves carried away. The few agents now in Tintalous see clearly that this route will become, for the future, safe only for large caravans. En-Noor says of the villages which were attacked by the tribe of Oulimid, that the people must have been chickens not to have defended themselves; but the fact is, the whole country is now, to a certain extent, abandoned to the pillage of lawless banditti.

In the evening the people contrived to celebrate the preliminaries of the approaching nuptials. The bride, I now find, is no less a personage than the daughter of En-Noor,—a full-grown desert princess. The Sfaxee and several other foreign merchants fired in the evening salutes in honour of the occasion. The drum was again kept beating all night, accompanied again by the crickets and the screech-owl. Oh for a quiet sleep!

28th.—Late in the evening another troop of twenty maharees came to visit En-Noor, and assist at the nuptials. They were known at some distance by the jingling of the bells, which are always worn on their camels on such occasions. The drumming was kept up again the greater part of the night, the screech-owl and crickets joining the discord as before.

29th.—Several of our people have recently been unwell, Yusuf amongst the rest. They take little care of themselves, and attribute their illness to the ghaseb. I expect we shall have them all ill in Soudan.

Early this morning I found Ibrahim, servant of the Germans, holding in his hand and playing with a huge scorpion, which he had caught near the tents. He seemed to have fatigued it so much that it could not sting. It kept, indeed, always striking with its tail, but very feebly. Its head was not at all prominently brought forward out of its body, and it looked as if it had no head at all. It had ten legs. I told Ibrahim that he was a marabout, at which he was greatly flattered.

The twenty maharees have joined the nuptial festivities this morning. A number of women are squatting in a group on the ground, and the men mounted on their camels are riding round and round them, sometimes in single file, and at other times in two's and two's. Whilst this is going on, another mounted party gallops up one by one to the group from a short distance. All this is done to the sound of rude noisy drums. I have not heard any songs, or seen any other species of music but this drum. There are, however, several drums of different sizes, and producing various noises. They are made of wood and with bullocks' hide.

The women looloo as on the coast, and both men and women dance; not exactly as the negroes do, but still somewhat indelicately. Hamma, who commanded our escort, has returned from visiting his friends.

The Tanelkums report that Hamma is something like Achilles, for he has often been wounded, having been in many battles, but none of his wounds have ever proved fatal, or even much incommoded him.

It would seem that Tintalous, like all the Tuarick countries, is a miserably poor place; for it is said that none, or very few, of the people in the town have a fire for cooking their bazeen, except the great En-Noor himself. The time, however, approaches for the departure of the caravans for Zinder, whence they bring back a great quantity of ghaseb and samen.

A Haghar, or Ghat Tuarick, I know not which, came into my tent this morning and behaved insolently. Amongst other antics, he took up a gun. I immediately wrested it out of his hands and sent him out of the tent. Yusuf was present, but, as usual, showed little spirit.

My blacks were taken aback at my treating a Haghar in this cavalier way; but I observe that they are now more cautious in permitting strangers to enter my tent. The day before I turned a saucy Kailouee out, and my servants begin to understand that I will not be pestered more with these people, and so they keep them off. This is my only plan, for I have told them a hundred times not to allow strangers to come and molest my privacy.

30th.—The noisy drums have ceased, and most of the Targhee visitors have departed. The people, however, still bring news of razzias, Kailouees with Kailouees. A messenger has returned with his report about the boat; it is quite safe and in good hands, at Seloufeeat.

A caravan arrived yesterday from Ghat, and reports that Wataitee had returned to that place and brought reassuring news respecting us. Behind is coming another caravan, in which is some Moor from Tripoli. Probably this person will bring news or letters. From the report of Ibrahim, the Germans' servant, it would seem that the people of Tintalous believe that Christians eat human beings; and further, from what I hear, this strange prejudice possesses the minds of the lower classes in many countries of Soudan. Such are the opinions of the semi-barbarians of Africa respecting us and our boasted civilisation! There is much to be done yet in the world before mankind know one another, and acknowledge one another as brethren.

En-Noor sent word this morning that he and his friends, the Sultans of Asoudee and Aghadez, had combined a razzia against the people of Tidek and Taghajeet, who had plundered us on the road; and that fifty maharees had gone to execute their purposes. This is the expedition which has been long talked of: we shall see its results. Dr. Barth is making arrangements for going to Aghadez.

I have prepared a draft of a treaty, which Yusuf, who accompanies Barth, will take with him. I have also made a selection of presents for the Sultan of Aghadez.

There is now an immense movement throughout all the Kailouee country. It is supposed that the razzia for the west has other ulterior objects besides merely chastising the Fadeea and people of Tidek for plundering us. The power of En-Noor more and more developes itself. He seems to be determined to take every opportunity to consolidate it.

Oct. 1st.—Yesterday evening I saw the first drove of bullocks in this country; it belonged to En-Noor. Overweg made a bet with me that En-Noor would give us one of these animals to-day. I took his bet of twelve small Aheer cheeses against his six, and won; for the greedy old dog has sent us no bullock. This morning a man offers me a draught bullock for sale. The price demanded is fifteen metagals of this country, two and a-half of which are equal to a Spanish dollar. He lowered his price to eight, and the blacks offered seven, but eight were at last given. One of our people mounted the naked back of the bullock, and rode him as quietly and easily as a little pony.



NOTE ON THE TERRITORIAL DIVISION OF AHEER OR ASBEN.

In the text, a list of towns and villages has already been given. The following, obtained from another source subsequently, is far more complete, and probably more correct. In it the towns and districts are all described according to their situation from Tintalous, the point from which they are made to radiate, both with regard to their compass direction and distance. This account of the territorial division of Aheer is nearly an exact translation from an Arabic paper, drawn up by Mahommed Makhlouk, Fighi and Secretary of the Sultan En-Noor. I have not distinguished any of the emphatic letters, the present transcript being enough for my purpose.

WESTERN DIVISION.

Distance No. of Men.

Satartar, N.W. 3 hours 100 Takardaee 3 h. 30 Akeeka 4 h. 20 Asqudaee, S.S.W. 6 h. 120 Tagharet 6 h. 50 Tshagadmara 6 h. 20 Ebenturaghak 8 h. 30 Tugurut 10 h. 30 Tshemeya 8 h. 100 Edaka 2 days 150 Taleghat 2 d. 50 Agata 2 d. 50 Tegheedda 1 d. 20 Agalal 1-1/2 d. 100 Eretawa 2 d. 50 Ghargar-Dandamu 2 d. 50 Yinwajuda 3 hours 40 Tandawee 5 days 50 Baeenabu 5 d. 50 Sakalmas 6 d. 30 Egadas (Aghadez) Banfalas 6 hours 20 Tanwansa. 6 h. 15 Tingareegaree 6 h. 10 Asaduragam 6 h. 50 Areera 6 h. 30 Tshezoulah 1 day 15 Esalel 1 d. 30 Tagurat 1-1/2 d. 30 Abarakam 1-1/2 d. 30 Tshemeleen 1-1/2 d. 30 Egalak 1 d. 50 Tshummuru 1 d. 50 Tadanak 1 d. 20 Asada 2 d. 50 Bawas 1-1/2 d. 40 Taoudaras 3 d. 40 Tafaraghat 3 d. 40 Shintaburag 4 d. 30 Tasouba 4 d. 30 Emalaoulee 5 d. 50

NORTHERN DIVISION.

Tamgag 2 days 300 Takamas 1 d. 50 Zeggagheen 2 d. 100 Zalaelat 2 d. 300 Tadag 3 hours 50 Tintabourak 3 days 100 Tafadad 4 d. 50 Esnalam 4 d. 50 Safes 2 d. 100 Tagut 6 hours 20 Takurnaraghat 1 day 70 Aberkam 1 d. 40 Tanutmulat 1 d. 30 Tintaghoda, N.W. 2 d. 200 Efruwan 2 d. 100 Takreza 2 d. 60 Kalfadaeee, N.W. 4 d. 500 Fadaee, N.W. 4 d. 400 Tidek, N.N.W. (a Wady) 3-1/2 d. Wadekee 1 d. 20 Anumagaran 2 d. 150 Asarara, N.N.W. 2 hours 30 Bungutan 2 days 150 Tadoudawat 2 d. 100 Bakerzuk 1 d. 20 Azutu 4 d. 50 Edukal 2 d. 80 Agargar 6 hours 50 Foudet 6 h. 20 Maghet 1 day 40 Tshafouak 1 d. 20 Egatram 1 d. 20 Seloufeeat, N.W. 2 d. 150 Tafkun 2 d. 100 Agalal 2 d. 100 Dellan 4 d. 400 Ekroun, N. 8 hours 60

EASTERN DIVISION.

Aghoua, N.E. 8 hours 50 Amuzan {N.E. Three } 7 h. 100 Amuzeen {places } 7 h. 20 Amuzzan {adjoining. } 7 h. 10 Azanghaeedan 8 h. 40 Efarghar 8 h. 20 Tazaranet (date palms) 1 day 40 Aghaglee 1 d. 30 Tshintajaee 1 d. 100 Kalawazaee 1 d. 15 Eyangal 1 d. 20 Ajin-Yeeris 1 d. 100 Afara 1 d. 20 Tafusas 1 d. 10 Zagadaou, S.E. 1 d. 50 Tshintagheedeen 1 d. 100 Maddad? Tansumat 1 hour 10 Alerasa 2 days 30 Elakaran 1 d. 20 Tezreera 2 d. 20 Azaneeras, N.E. 1 or 2 d. 50 or 60 Tanasuma } Tanousamet } one place? 6 hours 10 Talaou, E.W.E. 6 h. no people Bukezan, N.E. 8 h. 15 Atas 1 day 100 Thaweezawa 1 d. 10 Tagaee 1 d. 20 Touweezawan 1 d. 40 Elabag 1 d. 30 Ebul? Tagumarat 1 d. 100 Gutag 1 d. 20 Tadakeet 1 d. 30 Aghazar-Nanou, S.E. 1 d. 20 Azar 1 d. 100 Aghammelaee 1 d. 30 Zanwazgar 2 hours 10 Thintaghalee 1 day 10 Talaeeshena 1 d. 10 Shafazres 2 d. 20

SOUTHERN DIVISION.

Shouwerkedan 2 days 30 Atakaee or Tatakaee 3 d. 30 Dagergadu 1 d. * Aganjam 2 d. * Baren Tafeedee 4 d. * Ajeewa 4 days * Tableel 3 d. * Asawee 3 d. * Amzagar 4 d. * Takarakum 4 d. * Tsheezan-Tarakat 2 d. * Akaram 3 d. * Tshehousat 3 d. * Emugazem 4 d. * Taraten 4 d. * Tazeezaleet 4 d. * Eface 4 d. * Tshublaghlaghah 4 d. * Mairee 2 d. 20 Baouwat 3 d. 40 Taghoura 4 d. 100 Rasma 3 d. 30 Afaraghab 3 d. 40 Gursed 3 d. 30 Shekareshoureen 2 d. 20 Bomdaee 2 hours 30 Jintalewat 1 day 20 Tshinwanou 1 d. 50 Gazawa 2 d. 10 Talazeghreen 2 d. 1000 Afasas 2 d. 1000 Efoutsham 2 d. no people Tuburneet (a well) 2 d. Tammanee 2 d. 100 Takarzarga 3 hours 15 Anakkara 2 days 100 Tshinkeewa 2 d. 20 Wallag 2 d. 100 Ekrenusoul 2 day 60 Aghargharan-Tulama 3 d. 40 Wuna 4 d. 100 Ajeeru-Taleya 3 d. 200 Barghut 4 d. 40 Asaba 4 d. 30 Takraoukaraou 4 d. 30 Tourayal 5 d. 100 Ekourak 6 d. 40 Bagazem, S.W. 4 d. 380 Taghaoujee 7 d. 600 Nagharabu 2 d. no people Enfasag 3 d. 100 Tshegayeen 3 d. 40 Tagbata 4 d. 15 Nabaraou 4 d. 100 Azangarran 3 d. no people Anfag 4 d. 200 Ekuffawan 4 d. 20 Ataghas-Tawarat 4 d. 100 Aghalgawa 4 d. no people Egloulaf, S.W. 6 hours 200

In the places marked with a star there are no inhabitants, the people having emigrated to Bornou, or been captured and carried thither.

The number of men, or adult males enumerated in the above columns, amounts to 12,731. Taking this number as the foundation-stone of Asbenouee statistics, the population may be reckoned in this way, according to the manners of the Kailouee people:—

Adult males 12,731 Adult females (wives) 12,731 Female slaves or concubines (a fifth of the adult) 5,000 Children (two for every adult male) 25,462 Town of Tintalous 450 City of Aghadez 2,500 ——— 58,874

There are still remaining to be added in the computation the statistics of numerous tribes on the frontiers, or surrounding Aheer and Aghadez.



END OF VOL. I.



LONDON: PRINTED BY G. BARCLAY, CASTLE ST. LEICESTER SQ.