A few modifications were made in the design of an expensive lamp to simplify the construction. The lamp should have a tall chimney. The dimensions given in the drawings, and the photograph, will explain themselves. Many of the details can be worked up by the maker.

The body of the lamp is made of 1/2-in. oak and is provided with openings as shown. The interior receptacle is very handy for holding a match box, smoking articles, etc.

A piece of copper band, 1 in. wide, is fastened to the body with large upholsterers' tacks, to give it a finished appearance. The base is 7/8 in. thick and in order to prevent tilting is provided with four square feet, 1/4 in. thick. The top piece of the body is 1/2-in. oak, which is provided with a hole large enough to receive the bowl of the lamp. If such a lamp is not at hand, one can be purchased at a very reasonable price.

The shade is made of oak frames set in with clouded art glass panels. The different sections of the frames are fastened together with brass screws and the glass is held in place by triangular cleats of oak. Be sure and fit the shade with cardboard panels before ordering the glass. The cardboard can be used as a pattern in cutting the glass, and the glass will then fit without recutting, which is quite difficult.

The glass beaded fringe should be of suitable color to harmonize with the finished lamp.

The shade is supported by four brackets cast in bronze from a wood pattern (dimensions given) and finished by filing, buffing and lacquering.



ANOTHER CHINA CLOSET

The china closet shown in the accompanying illustration is well proportioned and of pleasing appearance. It can be made of any one of the several furniture woods in common use, but quarter-sawed oak will be found to give the most pleasing effect. The stock should be ordered from the mill ready sawed to length, squared and sanded. In this way much hard labor will be saved. The following pieces will be needed:

1 top, 1 by 19 by 38 in., S-1-S. 4 posts, 3/4 by 3 by 59 in., S-2-S. 4 side rails, 3/4 by 3 by 31 in., S-1-S. 4 end uprights, 1 by 2 by 48-1/2 in., S-2-S. 4 end rails, 1 by 3 by 16 in., S-2-S. 2 lattice rails, 1 by 2 by 13 in., S-2-S. 1 top board, 3/4 by 3 by 36 in., S-1-S. 4 side door rails, 3/4 by 2 by 47 in., S-2-S. 6 cross rails, 3/4 by 2 by 12 in., S-2-S. 4 slats, 1/2 by 3/4 by 16-1/2 in., S-2-S. 4 slats, 1/2 by 3/4 by 13-1/2 in., S-2-S. 8 slats, 1/2 by 3/4 by 12-1/2 in., S-2-S. 4 shelves, 5/8 by 16 by 32 in., S-1-S., poplar. 4 cleats, 1 in. sq. by 55 in., soft wood. 4 cleats, 1 in. sq. by 28 in., soft wood. 4 cleats, 1 in. sq. by 14 in., soft wood.



Having this material on hand, start with the four posts, as they are all alike. Clamp them together, being careful to have them of the right length, and the ends square. Trim the bottom, as shown in the detail drawing, and then lay out the mortises for the front and back rails. These rails can now be laid out and the tenons cut to fit the mortises in the posts. The back rails should, in addition, be rabbeted for the back board as shown. The end rails are fastened to the posts by means of screws through 1-in. square cleats, fastened on the inside of the posts as shown in the section A-A. In all cases the screws should be run through the cleats into the framing so the heads will not show. The end rails should be rabbeted on the inside for the latticework and the glass.

The back board should have the corners rounded as shown and be fastened to the top board with screws through from the bottom side. The top board is then fastened to the top rail cleats in the same manner.

The doors are put together by means of tenons and mortises. The frames should be rabbeted on the inside for the latticework and the glass. Leaded glass can be used in place of this latticework, if it is desired. Suitable hinges and a catch should be supplied. These can be purchased at any hardware store.

The shelves should be cut out at the corners to fit around the cleats. They rest on small blocks which are fastened to the cleats, or if desired, small holes can be drilled and pins used instead.

The back is put on in the usual manner. A mirror can be put in without much trouble if it is desired.

When putting the frame together, glue should be used on the joints, as it makes them much stiffer. Be careful to get the frame together perfectly square, or it will be hard to fit the doors and the glass. When it is complete, go over the whole carefully with fine sandpaper and remove all rough spots. Scrape all the surplus glue from about the joints, as stain will not take when there is any glue. The closet can be finished in any one of the many mission stains supplied by the trade for this purpose.



AN OAK BEDSTEAD

The accompanying sketches show an artistic design for a mission bed, so simple in construction and design that most any one that has a few tools and a knowledge of their use can make it. It is best made of quarter-sawed oak, as this wood is the easiest to procure and work up and looks well with any finish. If the stock is ordered from the mill ready cut to length, squared and sanded, much of the hard labor will be saved.

The following is a list of the material needed:

2 posts, 2-1/2 by 2-1/2 by 50 in. 2 posts, 2-1/2 by 2-1/2 by 44 in. 2 end rails, 1 by 6 by 56 in. 2 side rails, 1 by 6 by 78 in. 5 end rails, 1 by 4 by 56 in. 3 end rails, 1 by 2 by 56 in. 8 vertical slats, 3/8 by 6 by 11-1/2 in. 10 vertical slats, 3/8 by 2 by 11-1/2 in. 2 cleats, 1 by 1 by 78 in. 5 slats, 3/4 by 3 by 55-1/2 in. 20 blocks, 1 by 1 by 3 in.

Square up the four posts in pairs and lay out the mortises as per drawing. To do this, lay them side by side on a flat surface with the ends square and mark them with a try-square. The tenons on the end rails are laid out in the same manner as the posts. Four of the end rails should be marked and mortises cut for the upright slats as shown in the detail drawing. The tenons on the end rails are about 1 in. long, while those on the slats can be 3/4 in. long. Fit all the parts together before gluing to see that they fit square and tight. After the glue has been applied clamp them together perfectly square and set them away to dry. They should dry at least twenty-four hours before the clamps are removed.



While the ends are drying, the side rails can be made. These have a 1-in. square cleat screwed to the inner side for the slats to rest upon. If springs are used, five slats will be sufficient. They can be placed where the springs will rest upon them. After the position of the slats has been located, nail small blocks at their sides to hold them in place. For fastening the side rails to the posts, patent devices can be purchased at a local hardware store. The posts will have to be mortised to receive these, and care should be exercised to get them in the right place.

When the bed is complete go over it carefully and scrape all the surplus glue from about the joints, as the finish will not take where there is any glue. Remove all rough spots with fine sandpaper; then apply the stain you like best, which may be any of the many mission stains supplied by the trade for this purpose. If this bed is well made and finished, it will be an ornament to any home.



AN OAK FOOTSTOOL

The footstool shown in the illustration can be made from any kind of wood, but when it is intended to be finished in mission style, quarter-sawed oak will produce the best effect. The material needed will be as follows:

1 top, 1 by 9-1/2 by 12 in., S-1-S. 2 legs, 3/4 by 8 by 12 in., S-2-S. 1 brace, 3/4 by 7 by 9 in., S-1-S.

Order these pieces cut to length, squared and sanded. A full-sized layout of the front view should be made to get the correct bevels for the legs and brace. The design of the legs can be varied to suit the fancy of the maker. For such a design as shown draw one-half of it on paper; fold on the center line and with scissors cut both sides of the outline by following the lines drawn. Trace around this pattern on the wood, and saw out with a compass or keyhole saw. The sawed edges should be smoothed and sandpapered.



The perforation in the top board is made by first boring holes, then trimming out the edges with a sharp chisel. Be sure to get the best side of the board up.



The legs are fastened to the top and to the braces with 1-3/4-in. wood screws as shown in the detail drawing. After the stool is assembled, go over it carefully with fine sandpaper and remove all rough spots before applying the finish. This finish can be any one of the many different kinds supplied by the trade for this purpose. If this stool is well made and finished, it will be a useful and attractive article.



A LIBRARY SET IN PYRO-CARVING

The multitude of indifferently executed small articles which followed the introduction of pyrography is beginning to disappear, people are considering the art more seriously and applying it to more dignified uses. Pyro-carving is one of the new methods of decorating furniture which is both beautiful and practical, two qualities which do not always go together.

The library set illustrated consists of a table, 30 by 50 in., with two benches, 14 in. wide of the same length. The supports are made of selected white pine, which must be absolutely free from pitch. The pine is soft enough to work easily with the point and stands wear much better than basswood. The tops and braces are made of curly fir, all of the material must be 2-in. lumber, which dresses to about an inch and a half. All surfaces, except the faces of the supports, are given a well-rubbed coat of oil with a little burnt umber, the stain to be applied directly to the wood without a filler.

On the outside of the supports the design is drawn in with pencil, the background is then cut out smoothly with a chisel to the depth of an eighth of an inch, leaving the decoration in relief. It is then burned deeply, the background in straight flat strokes, the outlines having the effect of a sloping, dark edge. The shadows are burned in as deeply as possible and the shading is put in with the flat of the point.

A wax or egg-shell oil varnish finish is most suitable for this set.



A GRILLE WITH PEDESTALS TO MATCH

The accompanying sketch shows something unique in a grille that adds to the appearance of a home furnished in mission style. When it is stained and finished to match the furniture, it gives a consummate tone that would be difficult to obtain by any other means.

To get the best results it should be made to blend with the furniture and the arch in which it is to fit, in both weight and style. This will depend very much upon one's preference, and for this reason full dimensions are not given. No difficulty will be experienced, however, by anyone handy with tools, in making it.

The material should be quarter-sawed oak, which can be secured planed and sanded at the mill. For the grille order 1 by 1-1/2-in. and 1/2 by 1-1/2-in. stock. The method of making the bars is shown in the detailed sketch. The two end bars should be made of solid pieces, 3/4 by 1-1/2 in., with two rectangular slots mortised in each to receive the supports. The supports should be just the right length to go in the arch. To erect, slip the end bars on the supports, hold the grille in place and fasten the bars to the sides of the arch with screws.

The size of the pedestals and the connecting pieces will depend upon the size of the arch. These connecting pieces should be well mortised into the post, and if you own your own home and intend the pedestals to become a fixture, they should also be mortised into the sides of the arch. If not, they may be fastened to the arch with blind screws. The amount of material required will depend upon the size of the arch.



A LADY'S WRITING DESK

This desk of mission style is a little more complicated than some of the other pieces of mission furniture that have been described, but anyone who has a fair knowledge of tools will not have much trouble in constructing it in the home workshop if the plans are carefully followed. Quarter-sawed oak is the best wood to use, as it is easy to work and looks best when finished. Order the stock from the mill ready cut to length, squared and sanded. Following is a list of the stock needed:

2 front posts, 2 by 2 by 30 in. 2 back posts, 2 by 2 by 50 in. 1 bottom rail, 3/4 by 3 by 31 in. 2 end rails, 3/4 by 3 by 18 in. 1 stretcher, 3/4 by 8 by 33-1/2 in. 2 end slats, 3/8 by 8 by 15 in. 1 back slat, 3/8 by 8 by 15-1/2 in. 2 back slats, 3/8 by 3 by 15-1/2 in. 1 front drawer rail, 3/4 by 1-1/4 by 31-1/4 in. 2 side drawer rails, 3/4 by 3 by 18-1/4 in. 1 drawer front, 3/4 by 6 by 30 in. 1 desk lid, 3/4 by 18 by 31-1/4 in. 1 desk board, 3/4 by 19-1/4 by 31-1/4 in. 2 end boards, 3/4 by 19 by 21-1/4 in. 1 top board, 3/4 by 10 by 34 in. 1 top back board, 3/4 by 5 by 31-1/4 in. 1 back board, 3/4 by 30 by 22 in. 2 drawer sides, 1/2 by 6 by 19-1/2 in., S.W. 1 drawer end, 1/2 by 6 by 29 in., S.W. 1 drawer bottom, 1/2 by 18 by 29 in., S.W. 2 pieces for pigeon holes, 3/8 by 7 by 23 in., S.W. 8 pieces for pigeon holes, 3/8 by 4 by 6-3/4 in., S.W.

Start with the back posts, being sure they are square and of the right length; place them side by side and lay out the mortises for the lower rails, the desk rails and the top back boards, as shown in the accompanying detail drawing. Lay out the front posts in the same manner. Cut the tenons on the ends of the rails to fit the mortises in the posts. Also cut mortises in the rails for the back and end slats. The end rails have a mortise in them for the tenons on the ends of the foot boards. Clamp the ends of the desk together, with the end rails in place; then fit the side boards. Bore holes through the posts into the side boards for dowels as shown. After the dowels are in place the holes can be plugged.



Cut and fit the top back board, the bottom rail, the back board and the stretcher. Cut the top and desk boards at the back corners to clear the posts. The top board is to be fastened to the side boards with blind screws. The back board is fastened to the posts with dowels as shown.



When all the parts fit square and tight they can be glued together. The ends of the desk should be glued up first and left to dry, then the other parts put in place and glued. When clamping the parts together see that they fit perfectly square and tight. While the glue is drying the drawer can be made. The front board is made of oak, but the other parts may be made of some soft wood. The side pieces are mortised and glued to the front board, The end and bottom boards can be nailed together.

The drop lid of the desk is made as shown. Two or more boards may have to be glued together for the lid, the desk bottom and the back board. The lid is fastened to the desk board with two hinges, and it should be so arranged that when closed it will be even with the sides. Brackets or chains are fastened to the inside to hold it in the proper position when it is open. Small blocks of wood fastened to the inner edge of the side boards will prevent it from closing too far. A lock, if desired, can be purchased at a hardware store and fitted in place. Suitable handles for the drawer should also be provided.

When the desk is complete go over it with fine sandpaper and remove all rough spots. Scrape all glue from about the joints, as the finish will not take where there is any glue.

The pigeonholes are made from 3/8-in. stock. They may be tacked in place after the desk is finished.

The finish can be any one of the many mission stains supplied by the trade for this purpose. If the desk is well made and finished, it will have a very neat and attractive appearance.



A TELEPHONE STAND AND STOOL

The stand shown in the accompanying illustration is for use with a desk telephone. The stool when not in use, slides on two runners under the stand. A shelf is provided for the telephone directory, paper, pencil, etc.



The joints may be made with dowels, or the mortise and tenon may be used, as desired. If the latter is decided upon, allowance must be made on the length of the rails for the tenons. The list given is for the dowel-made joints. The following stock list gives the amount of material needed which should be ordered planed and sanded. This work can be done by hand if the builder has the time and desires to have an entire home-made article. However, the list is given for the mill-planed material.

STAND

4 posts, 1-1/2 in. square by 29 in. 2 rails, 7/8 by 5 by 11 in. 1 rail, 7/8 by 1-1/2 by 13 in. 1 rail, 7/8 by 5 by 13 in. 2 runners, 7/8 by 1-1/2 by 14 in. 1 top, 7/8 by 18 by 20 in. 1 shelf, 7/8 by 12-7/8 by 13-3/4 in.

STOOL

4 posts, 1-1/2 in. square by 17 in. 4 rails, 7/8 by 4 by 6-1/2 in. 4 rails, 7/8 by 2 by 6-1/2 in. 1 stretcher, 7/8 by 4 by 7-1/4 in. 1 top, 7/8 by 12-1/2 in. square.

The exact lengths for the posts are given in the list. Should the builder desire to square them up, allowance must be made for this when ordering stock.

Arrange all the pieces in the position they are to occupy in the finished stand and stool and number all the joints. Locate the centers and bore holes for all the dowels. Assemble the two sides of the table first. Notch the runners and fasten them to the posts with flat-head screws. Use hot glue on the dowel joints if possible.

Cut the corners out of the shelf to fit the legs and assemble the frame of the table. Use round-head screws through the rails to hold the shelf. The top may be fastened in two ways, with screws through cleats on the inside of the rails and under the top, or with screws slanting through the upper part of the rails and into the top as shown. The stool, is assembled in the same manner as the stand.

The stand and stool should be finished to harmonize with the furniture and woodwork of the room in which they are to be used.



HOW TO MAKE A DOWEL-CUTTING TOOL

Secure a piece of steel about 1/4 in. thick, 1-3/4 in. wide and 8 in. long. Drill various sized holes through the steel as shown in Fig. 1, leaving the edge of each hole as sharp as the drill will make them. Cut off a block of wood the length necessary for the dowels and split it up into pieces about the size for the particular dowel to be used. Lay the steel on something flat, over a hole of some kind, then start one of the pieces of wood in the proper size hole for the dowel and drive it through with a hammer, as shown in Fig. 2. The sharp edges on the steel will cut the dowel as smooth and round as if it were turned in a lathe.



A MEDICINE CABINET

This cabinet is best made of quarter-sawed oak, as this wood is the most easily procured and looks well when finished. Order the stock from the mill ready cut to length, squared and sanded. The following pieces will be needed:

4 posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 28 in. 4 side rails, 3/4 by 2 by 16 in. 4 end rails, 3/4 by 2 by 7 in. 2 door rails, 3/4 by 2 by 15 in. 2 door rails, 3/4 by 2 by 22-3/4 in. 1 door panel, 1/4 by 11-1/2 by 19-1/4 in. 1 back panel, 1/4 by 15-1/2 by 23-1/4 in. 2 end panels, 1/4 by 6-1/2 by 23-1/4 in. 2 pieces for top and bottom, 1/2 by 6-3/4 by 15-3/4 in.



Square the four posts and bevel the tops as shown.



Cut grooves in them with a plow plane to receive the 1/4-in. panels. The tenons on the rails are cut 1/4 in. wide and fit into the grooves in the posts the same as the panels. The rails have grooves cut at the inside edges for the panels. The front posts do not have grooves on the inside but have two mortises, one at each end for the top and bottom rails. The back has a panel fitted in the same as the ends. See that the pieces fit together perfectly square and tight, then glue them together and give it time to dry.

The top and bottom boards are next put in place. The top is placed in the center of the top rails while the bottom is put even with the lower edge of the bottom rails, as shown in the detail drawing. The door frame is mitered at the corners and rabbeted on the inner edge to take the panel. A mirror can be used in place of the panel if desired. Suitable hinges and a catch, which can be purchased at a hardware store, should be supplied for the door.

The shelves are of soft wood and are to be arranged to suit the maker. Before applying a finish, go over the cabinet with fine sandpaper and remove all the surplus glue about the joints and the rough spots, else the finish will not take evenly. The finish can be any one of the many different kinds supplied by the trade for this purpose.



CONTENTS

Arm Chair 66

Arm Chair, Curved Back 18

Basket, Waste Paper 27

Bedstead, Oak 99

Bend Wood, How to 40

Bookcase 70

Buffet, Oak 5

Cabinet, Medicine 116

Cedar Chest, Oak-Bound 79

Chair, Arm 66

Chair, Curved Back Arm 18

Chair, Rocking 14

Chair, Side 62

Chest, Oak-Bound Cedar 79

China Closet 47

China Closet, Another 94

Clock, Arts-Crafts Mantel 52

Clock, Plain Oak Hall 10

Couch, Oak, with Cushions 33

Desk, Lady's Writing 108

Desk, Oak Writing 29

Dining Table, Extension 77

Dowel-Cutting Tool, How to Make 115

Dowel Holes, Tool for Marking 23

Dresser for Child's Playroom 85

Electric Shade for Dining Room 37

Footstool, Leather-Covered 50

Footstool, Oak 101

Grille with Pedestals to Match 107

Hall Clock, Plain Oak 10

Lamp, Arts and Crafts Oil 91

Lamp Stand 73

Library Set in Pyro-Carving 105

Magazine Table 24

Mantel Clock, Arts-Crafts 52

Medicine Cabinet 116

Mortises, Tool for Making 84

Music Stand 55

Oak Stain 9

Plate Rack 21

Pyro-Carving, Library Set in 105

Rocking Chair 14

Screws, Making Hold in End Grain of Wood 58

Shade, Electric for Dining Room 37

Side Chair 62

Smoking Stand 43

Stain, Oak 9

Stand and Stool, Telephone 112

Stand, Lamp 73

Stand, Music 55

Stand, Smoking 43

Stool, Telephone Stand and 112

Table, Extension Dining 77

Table—Library Set in Pyro-Carving 105

Table, Magazine 24

Telephone Stand and Stool 112

Tenons, Cutting with a Hand-Saw 90

Tool, Dowel-Cutting, How to Make 115

Tool for Marking Dowel Holes 23

Tool for Making Mortises 84

Wall Case with a Mirror Door 59

Waste Paper Basket 27

Wood, How to Bend 40



* * * * * *



Transcriber's Notes:

The Table of Contents was added for the reader's convenience.

Folio 118: "perfectly" was "perfecly".

Folio 4 and 81 "mill-planed" was "millplaned".

Added captions for clarity:

Folio 27: "A WASTE PAPER BASKET".

Folio 28: "DETAILS OF WASTE PAPER BASKET".

Folio 58: "MAKING SCREWS HOLD IN END GRAIN".