This patriarchal repast being finished, we again went forth, and visited the convent of Plija, distant from the wigwams about ten minutes' walk. Many of our new friends accompanied us, the judge with great solidity of manner leading the way. We passed a beautiful fountain at the head of the glen, and entered the monastic edifice, which is built of stone. The abbot, a fine old man, met us at the door with a pleasant countenance. He invited us into his cell; we had to stoop very low to save our heads, and the door-case was rubbed bright on all sides by the friction of this solitary inmate passing in and out. The hermitage consists of one room with a bed in the corner, screened by a slight partition; a lattice-window admitted a peep into the rich and lovely vale below, and the pure air of the mountain was not obstructed by glass. I had often heard of the Eastern custom of sitting cross-legged, but never till now experienced it in reality. We were desired to sit on cushions spread on the floor for our reception, and were served with the finest walnuts and honey I ever tasted; and while we partook of this hermit-like repast, there was a precious feeling of good, and I believe we had the secret prayers of the good abbot, as he had ours. When we presented him with the New Testament, Genesis, and the Psalms, he kissed the books and pressed them to his bosom, expressing his gratitude for the treasure.

Our next visit was to the habitation of the judge, which is of the same description as the rest, where we were served again with coffee. What pleased us was the sweet feeling of quiet which prevailed, of which I think some of them were sensible; one woman, our first hostess, put her hand to her heart and said very sweetly, "I love you."

They would not let us depart without showing us their ancient custom of taking hold of hands and dancing round, singing meanwhile a sort of chant. Many of them came with us to the water's edge, and prayers were raised in our hearts for their good, and thanksgiving to our Divine Master for the comfort and satisfaction of the day.

3 mo 8.—Under the hospitable roof of Captain McPhail we have felt much at home. His wife said our coming had been a blessing to her; she is near to us in gospel love. The captain accompanied us in his boat to the steamer.

From Santa Maura they proceeded to Argostoli, the chief town of Cephalonia.

We arrived about five o'clock in the morning. The entrance to the town for a considerable distance is like a perfect lake: the white houses along the side of the harbor, and the craggy hill with the olives growing out of the rocks, had a pretty appearance at the break of day. Our young Greek interpreter, Giovanni Basilik, was with us. We had to call up the inhabitants of the only inn in the place before we could get shelter. At first the host refused to receive our little company, but after some explanation he consented to arrange the desolate-looking rooms into habitable order.

They visited the schools and the prison, and they received from the Resident, H.G. Tennyson, and the schoolmaster and mistress, a friendly reception; but the islanders are generally careless of instruction, and progress of all kinds is slow.

From Cephalonia they traversed the sea to the beautiful island of Zante. Though they had ten men to row, the passage occupied thirteen hours.

Contrary wind, writes John Yeardley, compelled us to approach the island slowly, which gave us an opportunity of viewing the villages and scattered houses at the foot of the mountain. The town of Zante is very long; the main street has piazzas on each side for a considerable distance. In many of the windows (I suppose a Turkish custom) there are something like cages, through which the women peep without being seen, under the pretence of modesty; but it is horrid to hear of the wickedness committed in-doors. However, I am glad to find the custom is dying away, and that the young women are now permitted to walk in public more than they were a few years ago. This island is by far the finest we have visited; it is very fertile and well cultivated, and supplies England with currants; but, like their neighbors, the people have the character of being immoral, treacherous, and revengeful. It is sorrowful to think that, under the system of picture-worship, there is scarcely a sin of which the poor Greek is not guilty to an enormous extent. With God all things are possible—he can change the hard heart of man by the power of his Divine Spirit; but, morally speaking, it must be some great convulsion that can work a real change in the nation. W.O. Croggon has labored here more than seven years, and knows not of one conversion among the rich Greeks—not one attends the service for worship. He is the Methodist missionary here, and is called the friend of every man: he has been a real friend to us.

The Governor and his wife have paid us marked attention. The former took us to see the prison, which is well conducted, and the prisoners are classed. We suggested the benefit likely to result from the prisoners being employed, and Major Longley [the Governor] intends to introduce basket-making. We have, in addition to the public schools, visited several private ones, and are pleased to find so many children receiving education: this is really the chief source of hope for improving the morals of the Greeks, and dispersing the gross darkness which surrounds this people, whose long servitude and sufferings under very hard masters have almost driven them back to barbarism.

17th.—There was a shock of earthquake, more violent than has been felt for some years in this place. Our room shook almost like a ship at sea; the walls, beds, tables, and glasses were all in motion, and the sensation, while it lasted, was that of sea-sickness. The noise may be compared to the rolling of a carriage with many horses coming at full speed, and suddenly stopping at the dwelling. (See Eastern Customs, p. 78.)

Having thus explored the four principal islands of the Ionian Archipeligo. John and Martha Yeardley turned their course towards the Morea.

30th.—At 6 o'clock in the morning we put ourselves once more at the mercy of the waves of the Mediterranean, and had a quick passage of fourteen hours. The landing at Patras was frightful; a sudden squall threw us off the shore, and caused us to lose part of the rudder, so that we were obliged to get into a very small boat, which threatened to upset every moment. We were, however, favored to land in safety on a projecting rock: it was nearly dark, and the whole had a terrific appearance.

The plains near Patras, once beautifully planted with currants, olives and vines, are now perfectly desolate. The castle was in possession, of the Turks eight years, who made continual sallies from it for provision and firewood; while, in order to disappoint them, the Greeks themselves assisted in the destruction of all vegetation; so that there is scarcely any green thing to be seen. The old town is a scene of ruins; the site of the new town is near the sea, where temporary shops and houses have been erected.

It was difficult to find a shelter for the night; but a kind fellow-traveller assisted us, and at length we were pressed into a miserable dirty room, with only a board for a bedstead.

At Patras we had abundance of consultation, whether to undertake the journey to Corinth and Athens by land, or to encounter the gulf. We concluded to venture on the latter, and contracted with the captain of a little boat to depart at five the next morning. He deceived us by not sailing at the time proposed; but we made an agreement with other sailors to go off in the evening, hoping to get to Corinth the next morning: but, after tossing all night, we found in the morning the ship had only made twenty miles; and about mid-day the captain declared he could not get to Corinth, and must put into a small port on the opposite side of the gulf, called Galaxidi, and wait for better weather. We were so exhausted as to feel thankful in the prospect of being once more on land. Nothing can be more comfortless than these small Greek vessels; in the cabin you can neither stand nor lie at full length.

After some difficulty in getting on shore, we were led to the khan, a very large room with a fire in one corner for boiling water, and a wine store; and round the side were benches which served for sitting by day, and on which the traveller spreads his mattress for the night, if he has one; if not, he must go without. We were desired to mount a ladder to a loft like a corn-floor, badly tiled in, and divided into four parts by boards about five feet high. The one division of this place assigned to us had no door, and when the windows were shut, which were of wood, there was no light what shone through the tiling or was admitted between the boards. The place was soon furnished, for the boy brought us a mat and spread it on the floor, which was all we had a right to expect; but as we seemed to be visitors who could pay pretty well, they brought also a rough wooden table and three wooden stools.

2nd.—Galaxidi is in ruins, presenting only mud cottages and temporary wooden houses; ships also are in building.

4th.—This morning we walked among the huts of the town, and found an old man keeping school near the ruins of his own school-room, which had been destroyed by the Turks. It happened to be his dinner-time, and he was seated cross-legged on a stone, with a footstool before him, enjoying a few olives and a morsel of bread. Around him stood his ragged pupils, reading from leaves torn out of old books, some of which were so worn and dirty that the poor boys could scarcely discover what they had once contained. The weather was by no means warm, yet we could not wonder at his choosing the open air for the place of instruction, when we saw his dwelling, which was a mud hut not quite nine feet square, with no opening for light but through the doorway. In this hovel he taught his forty scholars when the inclemency of the weather did not permit their being out of doors. The grey-headed father was surprised that his humble company had attracted the notice of strangers; but, seeing the interest we manifested in his calling, he inquired for a New Testament, which we gladly furnished, with the addition of some tracts to such of the children as could read them. This sight was gratifying to us as showing a disposition to teach and to learn, even under the most disadvantageous circumstances.

Our quarters at the khan became more uncomfortable; the people were so uncivil they would hardly give us cold water without grumbling. The second night we witnessed one of the most dreadful storms we ever remember to have seen. Violent gusts of wind shook our desolate abode, while the rain poured down in torrents and found entrance in various parts of our apartment.

They intended, as we have seen, to go to Athens by way of Corinth, and when they were disappointed of sailing to that city, and thrown upon the opposite shore of the gulf, they still seem to have supposed it impossible to reach the capital by any other route.

5th.—Being, says John Yeardley, on the contrary side of the gulf, and thus deprived of helping ourselves by means of horses, we gave up all hope of reaching Athens, and thought we must of necessity return to Patras. We therefore inquired for a vessel to take us thither; but never shall I forget my feelings of horror while trying to contract with a man for a boat. I said in my heart, O that I might be permitted to try the fleece once more in turning our faces towards Athens. The man was exorbitant in his demands, and it was too late to reach Patras without risking the night on the sea. To stay where we were was next to impossible without serious injury, especially to my dear Martha. Strong indeed was our united prayer for direction and help in this time of distress, and ever-blessed be the name of our adorable Lord who heard and answered our prayer. Out of the depths of distress a little light sprung up, and we thought if we could take a boat and cross over to Scala, a little port on the opposite side of the creek, we might then take mules to [Castri the ancient] Delphi, and if not able to proceed further on our way, the change we hoped would be use to M.Y. We did make the effort, and were favored to get to Scala, where we found only a few scattered mud houses; but on landing, there was a change of feeling immediately experienced. We were rescued from ship-builders and sailors, the vilest of the vile, and placed among a simple country people.

The master of the custom-house, to whom we had a few lines of recommendation, invited us to his house and gave us coffee. He provided us with four mules; three for the interpreter and ourselves, and the fourth for the baggage. It was about eight miles, or two and a half hours' ride, to Delphi; and no sooner had we begun to feel the mountain air than my dear M. began to revive. We had to climb precipices where nothing but mules could have carried us. At the foot of the mountain we came in company with two camels, which was a new sight to us.

The situation of Delphi is the most beautiful that eyes can behold: mountains of rock, such as we never before saw, and in the back ground the far-famed Parnassus, covered with snow. The village consists of about one hundred cottages, some of them built in the rock. We were conducted to one of the best of these rustic dwellings, and met with a very friendly reception from the inmates. The house consisted of two rooms, and we were offered the use of one of them; they furnished us with mattresses laid upon a sort of dresser, where we slept much better than for many previous nights; even the hen and her thirteen chickens under our bed did not disturb us. The novelty of the visiters soon brought in several of the neighbors, who did not leave us, even while we took our tea. As there was a good feeling, we thought it well to improve the opportunity, and inquired who could read. The master of the house, a sensible man, said there were only about twenty in the village who know anything of letters, but that he could both read and write, for his father was a priest.

After tea we produced a New Testament and the book of Genesis, and our interpreter read aloud the first two chapters of Genesis. Our host had never seen the Scriptures in his own language, and we think we never beheld a countenance more full of delight and intelligence than his was during the reading. After a short explanation of what had been read, and a word of exhortation, we thought to close; but the company were so pleased with hearing the account of the creation and fall of man [from the sacred record itself], that they requested us to read more. I desired them to ask any questions on the subject they might wish; and the first which our host put was, What kind of tree it was, the fruit of which Adam was forbidden to eat? We answered that it was translated in our language apple. He said they thought it was a fig. We told them it might be a fig, or it might be an apple; but that the object of the Almighty was to try Adam's obedience. They at once agreed to this; and the master of the house wisely observed, Jesus Christ came to restore to us what was lost by Adam's transgression. He then said, It would have been better if Adam, after his transgression, instead of hiding himself, had confessed his sin to God, and begged his forgiveness. We all agreed that it was a natural act for man, in his fallen state, to wish to seek excuse, rather than to confess his sin and repent. We then made some remarks on the prophecy of the Saviour in the third chapter of Genesis, and ability was given us to preach the Gospel of life and salvation. All hearts seemed touched, and our own overflowed with gratitude. We may in truth say, Our Heavenly Father has plucked our feet out of a horrible pit and out of the miry clay, and set them upon a rock, and put a new song into our mouth, even praise to his glorious name. On considering afterwards our situation, we could not but behold the hand of a gracious Providence which had led us to this spot; had we attempted to go by Corinth to Athens, we should [as they afterwards learned] have been stopped by the waters, and have missed seeing this interesting people; but from hence the way was passable, and only four days' journey by land.

After dinner we walked through the village up to the rock. We came to a fountain where several women were washing; one of them, a young-looking person, suddenly left her companions, and with hasty step and entreating air advanced towards us, as we supposed to ask something; but she bowed her head almost to the ground, and then kissed our hands; after which she withdrew in a cheerful and diffident manner. The reason of this salutation was, that the young woman had lately been married, and it was customary for the last bride of the village to kiss the hands of strangers.

The temple of Apollo once occupied nearly half an acre of ground: a great many of its marble pillars are still to be seen, half buried by the plough, and corn growing over them. About a hundred yards from this temple is the cave in the rock from whence the priestess pronounced the oracle. Among the curiosities of this wonderful place, the tombs in the rocks are not the least remarkable. They are built of the most beautiful white marble; the entrance is by a large archway, and round the circle are several recesses in the stone, one above another, where the dead had evidently been deposited. They illustrate the history of the maniac dwelling among the tombs (Mark v. 3.), for these caves formed a perfect sort of house in which persons might dwell.

8th.—We were not able to leave Delphi on account of the high wind with some rain. In the evening we again enjoyed our Scripture reading on the hearth. We continued the book of Genesis, and our host inquired whether those who died before the birth of the Saviour were lost. He was informed they were saved through faith in the promise. He had supposed they went into hell, and that when Christ came he released them. We asked him if Enoch, who walked with God and was translated, could have been sent to hell. Of this he knew nothing, never having read the Scriptures.

9th.—This morning we procured four mules and four men, and proceeded on our pilgrimage towards Livadia, thirty-three miles from Delphi. Our kind host recommended us to the special care of one of the muleteers, who put his hand to his heart, and feelingly accepted the trust. We were most of the day winding round Parnassus, whose height above us was tremendous. The road was frightful; over rocks, waters, and swampy ground; we could hardly have believed it possible to pass through the places where our mules penetrated. The muleteer performed his trust faithfully, rendering us all the assistance in his power. On parting we presented him with some tracts; he could read, and was much gratified with the gift.

At Livadia we were badly lodged, in a smoky room, and suffered much from extreme fatigue; but we found ourselves with an interesting family, to whom we read the Scriptures, seated with them on the floor; and we could not but feel grateful to our Divine Master, for leading us among those who were thirsting to receive the Holy Scriptures in a language they could understand.

10th.—We travelled on horses through a comparatively flat country, despoiled of all its verdure by the ruthless hand of war. The evening was wet; we reached the once celebrated Thebes in the dark, and were glad to take shelter in a smoky room, in the first house that could receive us. The situation is fine, but the present town occupies only the part which was the fortress of ancient Thebes.

11th.—This day we had much mountain country to pass through. Every tree we could see was either partly burnt or partly cut away. Towards the end of our day's travel we went through an immense wood, difficult of passage, on leaving which the Gulf of Aegina appeared in view. We rested for the night at a little settlement of Albanians near the coast. We obtained shelter in the cottage of an old woman, who seemed a little startled at the appearance of strangers, whose language she could not understand. Concluding, however, that we had the common wants of nature, and having no bread to offer us, she quickly prepared a little meal, made a cake, and baked it on the hearth under the ashes. We made signs to be furnished with a vessel in which we might prepare a little chocolate, our frequent repast under such circumstances; and, at length, a very rough homely-looking pitcher was produced; but the greater difficulty was to find something in which to boil the milk and water. After waiting till their own soup had been prepared, we obtained the use of the saucepan. These difficulties overcome, we enjoyed our meal; and offered some to a Greek woman who had walked beside our mules for the sake of company, on her dreary journey to Athens; but she refused, with thanks, saying, I am not sick; for the Greeks seldom take beverage of this sort, except when they are indisposed. As the inmates of this homely cottage, as well as the neighbors, who usually come in to see travellers of our uncommon appearance, did not understand Greek, we were deprived of the opportunity of reading the Holy Scriptures to them, or of conversing with them on the subject of religion. All that we could do was to prepare for rest, of which we stood in great need, having had a very fatiguing ride through the woods to this place. The room in which we had taken shelter was also to be our sleeping-place, in common with the old woman and her family and the Greek traveller; in another part of the room were also a sheep and several other animals. We swept as clean as we could a space in the neighborhood of the quiet sheep, and spread what bedding we had upon the mud floor, surrounding it with our baggage, except our carpet-bags, which served us for pillows; and after commending ourselves and the household to the protecting care of the great Shepherd of Israel, we obtained some refreshing repose. (See Eastern Customs, pp. 17-19.)

12th.—We started with tired bones. After a pleasant ride of four hours the Acropolis of Athens burst upon our view. The city is beautifully situated in a plain bounded by mountains, and near to a rich grove of olive-trees, which has been spared amid the ravages of war. I felt, says John Yeardley, low and contemplative; many and various thoughts crowded into my heart. Every foot we set in Greece, we Bee desolation. I can scarcely believe that I am in the place where the great Apostle of the Gentiles desired to know nothing but Christ crucified; and in sight of Mars Hill, from which the same apostle preached to the Athenians the true God.

We reached the only inn in the town, much worn by fatigue and bad accommodation, yet very grateful for having been preserved from any serious accident during our perilous journey, and under a precious sense that it was in right ordering we persevered in coming to this place.

We introduced ourselves to the American missionaries, Hill and King, and met with a hearty reception. The schools under their care are the most gratifying sight we have seen. J. Hill and his wife have nearly 500 children on their list. We were much pleased with the arrangements of the schools: the classification is the best I have ever seen, and the children exhibit intelligence and thirst for instruction. The effect of Scriptural instruction on the minds of the Greek children is very gratifying. A young girl whom the directors had taken into the school as an assistant teacher, entered the family with a mind fortified in the superstitions taught in her own church, observing scrupulously the feast and fast-days, the making the sign of the cross before eating, and the kissing of pictures. The mistress wisely avoided interfering with what the girl considered to be her religious duties; but after she had attended the Scriptural reading and the family worship for a short time, the light of divine truth broke in upon her heart; and as she embraced the substance of the religion of Jesus Christ, her attachment to the superstitious forms became gradually weakened, until at length she left them altogether. The mistress one day said to her, I observe you do not keep the fast-days, nor cross yourself before eating, nor kiss the pictures. No, replied the child, I am convinced that making the outward sign of the cross cannot purify the heart from sin; and as to meat and drink, I read in the Scriptures, that it is not that which goeth into the mouth that defiles the man.

15th.—Visited the schools under the direction of Jonas King, of the Boston mission. He has an academy for young men, and a school for mutual instruction, containing together 150. I think the mode of Scripture lessons particularly efficient. The instruction given in the schools at Athens seems more complete than in any we have visited during the journey. J.K. has service in modern Greek three times on First-days, at which some of the young men attend, along with other Greeks, but not many.

During our stay in this city we visited many Greek families, and distributed among them religious tracts and portions of the Holy Scriptures, and exhorted them to the observance of their religious duties, often calling their attention to those points in which their own practices are at variance with the doctrine of Holy Scripture.

The ancient ruins are exceedingly grand, and raise mingled feelings in the heart not easily described, but tending to humble the pride of human greatness. We saw the Temple of Theseus, the prison of Socrates, the famous Temple of Minerva; but the spot that most nearly interested us was Mars Hill, whose rocky mount was in view from lodgings, where we sat and conversed together of the Apostle Paul preaching the true God; and in the sweet stillness which covered our spirits, earnestly desired that the pure Gospel might again be freely preached and received throughout this interesting but desolated country.

There are not more than sixty really good houses built in the town; but, including great and small, there may be 1500 dwellings. It is settled that Athens shall be the seat of the Greek government; and the young king, Otho, laid the foundation-stone of the new palace in his last visit to this place.

18th.—Being anxious to get to Patras in time to sail by an English packet to Corfu, we set off for the port. J. Hill met us, to see us embark in a boat for Kalimichi. The Greek sailors have a superstition against sailing at any time but in the night; but after being deceived by one captain, we prevailed, on another to set sail [in the daytime], in the full hope of reaching Kalimichi the same evening. A favorable gale wafted us on for some time, but a slight storm coming on, the cowardly captain ran us into a creek, and kept us tossing all the night in his open boat. About eight o'clock the next morning we were favored to reach Kalimichi in safety, where we procured mules and reached Corinth to dinner.

Here there are only a few houses standing in the midst of ruins. We took up our abode at the only inn, from the windows of which we looked upon the busy scene of a fair. Our hearts were not enlarged, as the great Apostle's was; for our spirits were clothed with mourning in contemplating the darkness of the place. Many persons to whom we spoke could not read; and on offering a Testament to the man of the inn he refused to receive it.

We pursued our travels, and at mid-day met with a trying detention from the muleteer having neglected to obtain a permission. We were at length suffered to proceed, but arrived late at a miserable khan, where we passed the night in a loft. This poor place could only furnish two mules and a donkey, with a man to attend them; but we were encouraged to hope we should find four horses about two hours further on; but here we were disappointed, and could get no horses to proceed. We felt truly destitute, and took refuge in a loft from the scorching rays of the sun. We had very little food with us, and saw no probability of quitting our desolate abode till the next day at any rate. Thus situated we were endeavoring to be reconciled to our allotment, when most unexpectedly, about two o'clock, we espied a small fishing-boat sailing towards Patras, and immediately ran down to the shore, a considerable distance, to make signals to the boat-man, and inquire whether he would convey us to Vostizza, a place within a day's journey of Patras. We directly procured a mule to convey our baggage to the shore, and descended by a very rough path to a creek where the boat lay to. Here we were again detained by the guard making great difficulty in allowing the boatman to take passengers without a permit, which could only be obtained in the town, so strict and perplexing are the regulations for travellers under the new government. However, after detaining us an hour and causing us to lose most of the fair wind, he suffered the man to take us. We sailed along pretty well for a time, when the wind suddenly changed, and the boatman told us we could not get to Vostizza that night, but added they would put us on shore where we should be within an hour's walk of it, and that we could readily find a mule to carry our baggage. This we gladly accepted, and were soon landed and on our way.

Although sick and weary on board, we seemed to receive new strength for our walk, and arrived at Vostizza at about eight o'clock. Here our accommodation for the night was much like our former lodging; for this large town has also been, burned by the enemy, and presents a scene of ruins. We engaged horses for the next day to convey us to Patras, and were a little cheered with the prospect of being near that place of attraction. The man of the house where we lodged could not read, but informed us there was a school in the town of fifty boys. We saw a person in the next shop writing, and offered him a Testament, which he very gratefully received, and sent for the schoolmaster, who seemed much pleased with our offer to send him books and lessons. We also gave books to several we met with, who began eagerly to read them aloud, and soon obtained hearers, so that it became a highly interesting scene: boys who received tracts from us showed them to others, and numbers crowded about us, even to the lust moment of our stay. If we had had a thousand books we could have disposed of them. What a difference between this place and poor Corinth!

Our trying journey through Greece has given us an opportunity of judging of the state of things, and I hope will enable us to relieve some of their wants. It is cause of humble thankfulness to the Father of mercies that he has preserved us in the midst of many dangers, and brought us in safety so far back on our way with hearts filled with love and praise.

They arrived at Patras on the 22nd, but found that the English steamer had sailed two days before. They employed the interval before the sailing of another packet in establishing a girls' school, which was commenced soon after their departure. At Corfu they received information of the opening of the school, conveyed in a letter from the sister of the English consul in the following encouraging terms:—

I am sure you will be gratified to hear that the school which was established by your benevolent exertions has been opened under the most favorable auspices. The first day we had twenty-two girls; we have now forty-eight. Nothing can exceed the eagerness shown by the children to be admitted, and their parents seem equally anxious to send them; with very few exceptions they come clean, and on the whole are attentive and well behaved. Of the forty-eight there are only nine who can read. The little Corfuot you recommended is first monitor, and of great use.

They reached Corfu on the 12th of the Fifth Month, and were kindly accommodated at the office of the Commissary Ramsay.

Immediately on our arrival at Corfu, our young friend the Count Sardina renewed his visits. We saw him almost daily; our conversations were often truly spiritual; he opened his heart to us, and we rejoiced to believe that he had attained to a degree of living faith in his Redeemer.

It will be recollected that their inability to collect the inhabitants in a meeting for worship was a source of discouragement to John and Martha Yeardley in their former visit to Corfu. Now, on revisiting this island, they had the satisfaction of holding two meetings for worship with Isaac Lowndes' congregation.

6 mo. 1.—Isaac Lowndes had now obtained leave to hold his meeting for worship in the large school-room, and I felt at liberty to propose having an opportunity to address the congregation. This he gladly accepted, and gave notice of our intention. It was pretty well attended, but not full; a good feeling prevailed.

15th.—We had another meeting with the little company who meet in the school-room. The room was better filled than on the former occasion: it was a precious season of divine favor; utterance was given to preach the word, and I trust there were some into whose hearts it found entrance.

A few days before we left the island, I.L. took us to visit the Jewish Rabbi, who, though full of argument, appears extremely dark and bewildered, dwelling on mysterious words whose interpretation is confined to the rabbinical office. He said they looked for a temporal king, who should give a temporal kingdom to Israel. It was a truly painful visit, and we left him with the desire that he might be instructed even out of his own law, which, if properly understood, would prove as a schoolmaster to bring him to Christ.

After spending about five weeks at Corfu on this second visit, they again crossed the Adriatic to Ancona.



CHAPTER XIII.

THE THIRD CONTINENTAL JOURNEY.

1833-4.

PART III.—THE RETURN FROM GREECE.

Of the numerous letters which John and Martha Yeardley received from England during this long journey, very few have been preserved. We shall extract short passages from two which came to their hands not long before they left the Islands. The first is from John Rowntree, and is dated the 13th of the First Month, 1834.

On my own account, and on behalf of the Friends of our Monthly Meeting, I feel grateful for the information respecting your proceedings. There is some difficulty in satisfying the eager anxiety of my friends to know all that is to be known about your engagements, and I may truly say that the kind interest which you feel about us is reciprocal. Often do I picture you to myself, laboring in your Master's cause, receiving as fellow-partakers of the same grace all whose hearts have been touched with a sense of his love, who are hoping to experience salvation through Him alone.

Our reading meetings are pretty well attended this winter. We have been reading James Backhouse's journal: he was still engaged, when he sent the last account of his proceedings, in Van Diemen's Land. Like you, he and his companion rejoice at meeting with those to whom, although not exactly agreeing with us in some respects, they can give the right hand of fellowship as laborers under the same Master. Like you, too, they devote considerable attention to the improvement of schools, and the improvement of the temporal condition of the poorer classes among whom they labor.

In a letter from William Allen, written the 31st of the Third Month, occur the following words of encouragement:—

I have heard, through letters to your relations and others, that you have been much discouraged at not finding a more ready entrance for your gospel message; but really, considering the darkness; the sensuality, and the superstition of the people in those parts, we must not calculate upon much in the beginning. If here and there one or two are awakened and enlightened, they may be like seed sown, and in the Divine Hand become instruments for the gathering of others. Should you be made the means of accomplishing this, in only a very few instances, it will be worth all your trials and sufferings. And again, you must consider that, in the performance of your duty, seed may be sown even unknown by you, which may take root, and grow, and bring forth fruit to the praise of the Great Husbandman, though you may never hear of it. Be encouraged therefore, dear friends, to go on from day to day in simple reliance on your Divine Master, without undue anxiety for consequences; for depend upon it, when he has no more work for you to do, he will make you sensible of a release.

The passage to Ancona was tedious.

We embarked at noon, and had a long passage to Ancona of twelve days. We landed on the 29th, and soon found ourselves occupying an empty room in the Lazaretto, without even the accommodation of a shelf or closet. The term of quarantine is fourteen days, but four days are remitted by the Pope. The heat is oppressive, and the mosquitoes annoy us much, but we are preserved in a tolerable degree of health; and in taking a review of our visit to Greece and the Ionian Islands, we are still sensible of a very peaceful feeling, under a belief that we have followed the pointings of the Great Master, and a hope that the day is not far distant when the way will be more fully opened in those countries to receive the gospel. The preaching of John in the wilderness has often appeared to us to be applicable to this people,—Repent, for the kingdom of heaven is at hand.

7 mo. 6.—We left Ancona, and took the route through Foligno and Arezzo to Florence. That part of the Pope's dominions through which we have passed is highly picturesque; hill and dale continually, and the whole country cultivated absolutely like a garden. Most of the towns are on the hills, and nothing can exceed the beauty of their situation. But as to vital religion, the spirit of those who desire the promotion of the Redeemer's kingdom, on the broad and sound basis of common Christianity, must be clothed with mourning in passing through this superstitious and illiberal country. What we have seen of Tuscany is not so fine, but the appearance of the peasants is much superior. The inns are much more agreeable than we found them on the road from Geneva to Ancona.

We arrived at Florence on the 10th. The persons to whom we had recommendations were absent, on account of the heat of the season, except the Abbot Valiani, a spiritually-minded man, who showed us great kindness. He has refused many advantageous offers of promotion, choosing to be content with a little, rather than to be hampered with fetters which I believe he thinks unscriptural, and not for the good of the Church; he is of the opinion that it would be better for the common people to have the Bible, and to be more acquainted with its contents. He conducted us to see the School for Mutual Instruction, founded under the patronage of the Grand Duke, about twelve years ago. The school-room is very large, airy, and well lighted; it was formerly a convent. The system of education differs a little from that practiced in England; but the children, about 240 in number, are apparently under an efficient course of instruction and discipline. The younger boys have a string put round the neck, which confines them to the place during the lesson, but I observed it did not confine their attention. We were much pleased with the countenance and manners of the director, the Abbot Luigi Brocciolini; his heart appears to be in his work, which is by no means easy.

We left Florence early on the 13th, and had four days' hard travelling to Genoa. From Sestri to Genoa, a day's journey, is by the sea, and under the mountains, some of them of a tremendous height, and beautifully covered with olives, vines, and figs: the houses hang quite on the sides of the mountains amidst the olives; I do not remember to have passed through any country equally picturesque.

We had packed as many books and tracts as we well could in our wardrobe trunks, which were not once opened at the different custom-houses, but the surplus tracts, &c., we were obliged to put into a spare box by themselves, and this box was not suffered to pass the frontier of Sardinia. The first officer was embarrassed, not knowing how to act, and sent a gendarme with us to the bureau of Sarzana, the next town. The officer there was remarkably civil, but told us the law is such that books cannot enter except on conditions to which we could not in our conscience submit. We therefore left them in the bureau, desiring that they might be made useful: a person in the office said, in a half-whisper, These are the books to turn the people's heads. We were glad this loss did not prevent us from distributing others out of our remaining store, at the inns, and pretty freely on the road.

Their object in returning by Genoa was to visit the valleys of Piedmont. They reached Turin on the 19th, and proceeded on the 22nd to Pignerol. From this place they visited most of the valleys, went into all the families where Stephen Grellet had been, and had frequent religious conversation with the pastors and some of the people.

We spent, says J.Y., five days amongst them. The old pastor Best died soon after the time that Stephen Grellet was there. We met his son, lately appointed chaplain to the Protestant congregation at Turin. He is a young man of talent, lively and intelligent, and desirous of being useful in his new sphere of action. He came to us often at our little inn, and made many inquiries as to the nature of our religious principles; our conversation mostly turned on the necessity of the assistance of the Holy Spirit in the exercise of Christian ministry. This he fully admitted, but was not prepared to dispense with the necessity of an academical preparation. I fear that sending the young men to Geneva for this purpose has not always had a salutary effect.

We thought it right to attend their worship on First-day morning at La Tour. The congregation consisted of about 900 clean and well-dressed peasants, many of whose countenances looked serious. The short discourse of Pastor Peyron was orthodox, and the application impressive and edifying. He afterwards dined and spent the afternoon with us at the widow Best's, with several branches of her interesting and pious family. I humbly trust this day was spent to mutual comfort.

They were disappointed to find that strangers were forbidden by law to hold public meetings, or preach in the assemblies of the Protestants; and although they met with many pious individuals, they thought the life of religion on the whole at a low ebb, and deplored the prevalence of the forms and ceremonies used by the Church, of England. The schools, too, they found to be in a very poor state; the masters deficient in education and badly paid, and the schools conducted without system. The ministers showed them great kindness, and on their quitting La Tour, Pastor Best encouraged them by the expression of satisfaction with their visit. They returned to Turin on the 28th.

Passing over Mont Cenis, they directed their course to Geneva, where they arrived on the 3rd of the Eighth Month, rejoiced to be once more on the English side of the Alps. On their outward journey their sojourn in this city had been short, but now they found it needful to make a longer visit, and were thankful in being permitted to mingle again in intimate communion with those who understood the language of the Spirit. They paid and received many visits, and held two religious meetings at their hotel, at the latter of which about fifty persons were present.

One of the most interesting occasions of which they speak was a Missionary Meeting, in which the minister Olivier unfolded his experience of a divine call to leave his country, and go abroad on the service of the gospel. The voice which he described as having been sounded in his spiritual ear, and the manner in which he received it, must have struck John Yeardley as singularly in accordance with the call to a similar service which he himself had heard so distinctly in his younger days, and which, like Olivier, he had for a long time hidden in his heart.

8 mo. 4.—In the evening I attended the Missionary Meeting in the Chapel de l'Oratoire. Pastor Merle [d'Aubigne] opened the meeting by a short prayer, and singing, and then gave a narrative of the liberation of the slaves in the English colonies, according to the account received from England. Pastor Olivier, from Lausanne, was present. He is about to depart for Lower Canada, and he spoke in a very touching manner of the way in which the mission had first opened on his own mind. When the concern was made known in his heart, he kept it there in secret prayer to the Lord for direction, and whenever he heard what he believed to be the same voice, it was always—Go, and the Lord will go with thee. A real unction attended while he gave us this account; the way in which he spoke of it resembled the manner of one of our Friends laying a concern before a meeting: many hearts present felt the force of his words. His exhortation to the young persons was excellent. Pastor Gaussen concluded the meeting with an address and lively prayer.

Among the friends with whom they had religious intercourse were Pastors L'Huillier, Gallon, and Molinier. The last was a "father in the church" to them. After some conversation on the state of religion in Geneva, he proposed their sitting awhile in silence, well knowing the practice of the Society of Friends in this respect. John and Martha Yeardley had each a gospel message to deliver to him, after which he took them both by the hand, and offered up prayer for their preservation and the prosperity of the Society to which they belonged. "It was," says J.Y., "the effusion of the Holy Spirit, accompanied with power, and refreshed our spirits."

With Pastor Gallon John Yeardley had a long conversation on the principles and operations of the Societe Evangelique.

I find them, he says, more liberal in their views than had been represented, and their extent of usefulness is already considerable. In their Academy they instruct young men with a view to their becoming ministers, missionaries, school-masters, &c., as the prospect for their future usefulness may open under the direction of Divine Providence. In a place like Geneva, such an institution may be well: while we regard it with some caution lest it should run too high on points of doctrine, we cannot but hail with peculiar satisfaction such a favorable opportunity of educating young men in the sound principles of Christianity, that they may happily prove instruments in the Divine Hand to check the spread of infidelity.

From Geneva they went to Lausanne. Their old friend, Professor Gaudin, took them to see several pastors, and other pious persons, and on First-day, the 17th, he and his family, with some other serious-minded individuals, joined them in their hour of worship at the inn.

It was, says J.Y., a time of a little encouragement to our tried minds, for we had been brought into doubt as to the utility of resting here, although we had seen, as we believed, in the true light, that we ought to seek out a few who could unite with us in our simple way.

On the 18th they went on to Neufchatel, where they were received as before with much affection, and where they proposed to settle down for the winter, after making a tour in some neighboring parts of Switzerland.

On the 20th they went to Berne, and hired a lodging, for the purpose of devoting themselves to religious intercourse with persons of the interior class. As soon as it was known they had arrived, their acquaintance rapidly increased, and they found it difficult to receive all who came. One of their first acts was to renew their intercourse with the Combe family at Wabern, where their visit in 1828 had left a sweet remembrance.

They spent a fortnight in Berne and the neighborhood, and some passages from John Yeardley's account of this interesting visit may properly find a place here. The continual flow of Christian sympathy which it was now their happiness to experience, formed a strong contrast to the dreary spiritual wastes they had traversed in Italy and Greece. It was at this time that they contracted or renewed a friendship with Sophie Wuerstemberger, since well known to many other English Friends.

8 mo. 24.—How greatly I feel humbled under the prospect before us in this place; many thirsting souls are looking to us for help, and we feel poor and weak; we can only direct them to Him from whom all strength comes. O my Saviour, forsake us not in this trying hour; give us the consolation of thy Holy Spirit, and a portion of strength to do thy will! Our meeting is appointed for this evening; enlighten our understanding, O Lord, that we may be enabled to instruct the people in the right way.

25th.—More came to the meeting last evening than we expected. They were still, and a good feeling prevailed; there were those present who knew something of inward retirement with their Saviour.

Madame Combe called yesterday to ask some questions on the Supper and Baptism. I believe it would be an advantage to these pious people, if they were to read and compare one part of the Scripture with another more diligently. She left us well satisfied with the explanation given to her questions. We never touch on these points, unless we are asked questions upon them.

The various visits received this day have closed with one of no common interest from Dr. Karl Bouterwek, a young man from Prussia. He told as he had received much benefit in the church of the Dissidents, but was on the point of separating from them, because he could not agree in acknowledging they were the only true visible church. After some observations on the Supper, &c., we observed that there were individuals in this place whom the Most High was calling into more spirituality and purity of worship. He asked why we thought so. Our reasons were given, and he made no reply; but a most solemn and precious silence came over us, which it was beyond our power to break by uttering words. Our hearts were filled with love, and the dear young man went away to avoid showing the feelings of his heart by the shedding of tears.

28th.—Took tea at the Pavilion, a pleasant country walk of twenty minutes from town, with Mad'e de Watteville and her daughter. She had invited a number of friends to meet us. We passed a couple of hours, pleasantly conversing, mostly on religious subjects. It is a little extraordinary, with what openness some of these dear people speak to us of the state of their minds. When the circle was seated, we formed a pretty large company. The daughter of Mad'e de W. whispered to my M.Y., Are we too dissipated to have something good? We told her it was always good to endeavor to retire before the Lord in humility of soul. I trust a parting blessing was felt amongst us.

30th.—From 9 o'clock till half-past 12, we received visits in succession, I think not fewer than fifteen. At half-past 2, Mad'e de Tavel accompanied us to the Penitentiary prison. For cleanliness and order, I think, it exceeds all I ever saw of the kind. I fear the religious instruction is very superficial; none but formal prayers and written sermons are used.

31st.—Attended Mad'lle Berthom's Scripture class, at the Institution for the Destitute. There are eighteen girls in the house to bed and hoard; it has been established about six years. M.B.'s method of examining the children is the most simple and spiritual of any that I have seen; she has an extraordinary gift for the purpose.

9 mo. 2.—Attended the Monthly Meeting in the missionary room. Many of the company were peasants from some distance. The singing excepted, it resembled a Monthly Meeting for worship in our Society; for all had liberty to speak one after the other, five or six speaking by way of testimony: the doctrine was sound, and the way in which they coupled this with their Christian experience was really excellent. I had much unity with the concluding prayer by Pastor Merley.

2nd.—The evening was spent at Mad'e W.'s, with a pretty large company. —— proposed for a few verses to be sung; afterwards he read a chapter, and gave a long exposition, somewhat dry. When this and a prayer were gone through, it was late; neither my M.Y., nor myself, were able to express what was on our minds. Some uneasiness and disappointment were expressed by several; and two of these dear friends came to our lodgings the next day, with whom we had a precious time. My M.Y. had to speak a few words to the particular state of M.B., and at the close she acknowledged, in brokenness of spirit, that it was the truth.

There is a remarkable awakening in the town and canton of Berne, both among those of the higher walks of life and the peasants; but there is not strength enough to come out of the forms. There are thirty females to one man among those who are lately become serious.

From Berne, J. and M.Y. proceeded to Zurich, arriving there on the 5th of the Ninth Month. They spent three days in the city, chiefly in the company of the Gessner-Lavater family, and renewed with the various members of it the intimate friendship of former years. A short passage descriptive of this sojourn is hero appended.

9 mo. 7.—We attended the worship of the National Church, and heard the pious Gessner. What he said was excellent, but I never enter these places without feeling regret that good Christians can be so bound by book-worship; it certainly damps the life of religion in the assemblies. How much we ought to rejoice in being delivered from the forms.

I was instructed yesterday evening by hearing a reply of one of the first missionaries of the Moravians [?]. He had labored diligently for twenty-five years, and when asked how many souls had been turned to the Lord by his means, he modestly answered, Seven. The person expressing surprise at the smallness of the number in so many years, he replied, How happy shall I be to stand in the Lord's presence at the last day, and to say, Lord, here am I and the seven children whom thou hast given me. We ought to labor in faith, and not expect to see fruit.

The next town where they halted was Schaffhausen, like Zurich, dear to them in the recollections of past visits. Here they examined the school for poor children in the town, and that of Buch in the neighborhood. They were delighted with both these institutions. The mistress of the former possessed an extraordinary natural talent for her office; she was originally a servant, when, instead of seeking her own pleasure on the First-days of the week, as other servants did, she would take a few children to teach them to read and instruct them in the Bible. Their visit to the school at Buch is described by John Yeardley in No. 10 of his Series of Tracts, The Six Secrets.

On the 13th they went to Basle, where they conversed with most of the pastors, and several other individuals of religious character.

Serious, retired persons, says John Yeardley (9 mo. 21), frequently come to us and open the state of their minds with great freedom and confidence. If we are of any use to their thirsty souls, it is the Saviour's love that draws us into sympathy with them, and his good Spirit that enables us to speak a word in season to their condition.

As usual, they visited the Mission House. Inspector Blumhardt informed them that the translation which had been made of J.J. Gurney's "Essays on Christianity," and of which 2000 copies were printed, had been productive of great good; they had been distributed chiefly among those who were connected with the German universities.

They remained at Basle until the 1st of the Tenth Month, and then returned by way of Berne to Neufchatel. At Berne a sudden diversion was given to the current of their thoughts by the intelligence of the death of Thomas Yeardley. J.Y. has left a memorandum of the occurrence, and of the singular foreshadowing of it upon his own mind which took place at Zurich.

10 mo. 2. Berne.—We found many letters from England waiting for us here, one of which, from my nephew John Yeardley, brought the sorrowful intelligence of the sudden and unexpected removal of my dearly-beloved brother Thomas, of Ecclesfield Mill. This took place on the 6th of the Ninth Month, about 20 minutes past 2, without sigh or groan, even as a lamb. These are the expressions of J.Y.; he adds several sweet expressions of my precious brother's, which show that the solemn change to him was a joyful one: and I do believe his tribulated spirit is now at rest. On recurring to the 6th ultimo to see where we were, and what were the contemplations of my mind, I find we were at Zurich. That morning the following lines which I heard when a child, and had not repeated for the last twenty years, came forcibly into my mind:—

It's almost done, it's almost o'er, We're joining them that are gone before; We soon shall meet upon that shore Where we shall meet to part no more.

I not only repeated them to myself the whole of the day, but even sung them aloud so often that my dear M.Y. said to me, "Whatever can be the meaning that thou so often repeats these lines?" I replied, "I do not know that I have repeated them for the last twenty years, but to-day they are continually with me." This can have been nothing but the spirit of sympathy with the soul of my dear departing brother, for the awful impression of sorrow and solemnity in my mind on that day will never be forgotten; I mourned with the bereaved family without knowing it. My M.Y. had opened her portfolio to begin a letter to our sister Rachel, and I wrote the verse on a piece of loose paper, and she slipped it into her papers, and said to herself, Surely these lines are not prophetic of something that is going to happen? Last evening she banded me out of her portfolio the piece of paper containing the lines.

At Berne they received also the tidings that "the excellent" M.A. Calame was no more; the Christian mother of 250 orphan children was taken from the scene of her labors and the conflicts of time to the heavenly rest in her Saviour. The following appear to be among the last words which she wrote; they were no doubt addressed to her faithful companion Zimmerlin:—

In my numerous shortcomings I have enough constantly to humble me, and without being surprised at it, since evil is my heritage; but my help is in the Lord, who delights in mercy. I have hope also for all my brethren whom I love, whatever name they hear. There are twelve gates by which to enter into the Holy City, and if they have passed through the great gate, which is Christ, I am sure that those who enter from the east, as well as those who have been brought in by the west, will be there; but those who enter with me are better known to me than the rest whom I shall meet in that celestial Jerusalem, whither my sighs daily carry me, yet in submission to the heavenly decrees, desiring only that the will of God our Saviour be done.

You think my task is light? Ah, no! the love which the Lord has given me spends itself on so many hearts closed to their true interests; I see the hand of the enemy in their souls; I am so often deceived in my hopes, that my work is watered by my tears. From time to time, however, the Lord gives me hope; a soul awakes from sleep, and is kindled into light by the torch of the gospel.

And now, dear sister, have no longer any esteem or consideration for me; only let the love of Christ live in thy heart for me: the desires of my heart carry you with it to the feet of Him who is Love.

When they returned home, John and Martha Yeardley printed a short memoir of this extraordinary woman, whose name, though comparatively little known upon earth, is doubtless enshrined in the hearts of many who still survive, and shall one day shine with a lustre which the most brilliant of her sex, whose ambition it is to adorn the court, the concert or the drawing-room, will desire in vain to wear.

At Berne J. and M.Y. commenced a Bible class, similar in kind to the Scarborough reunion, which was continued until their departure, and was the source of much pleasure and profit to those who attended. Before quitting Berne, thinking it might perhaps be the last opportunity they should have of meeting with their numerous and beloved friends in that city, they invited them to join them in worship in their apartment.

Many, says John Yeardley, gave us their company; much tenderness of spirit was felt, and through the mercy of Divine Love many present were, I trust, comforted and refreshed.

We quitted Berne on the 30th. We had become so affectionately attached to many Christian friends, that parting from them was severely felt. But what happiness Christians enjoy even in this world I those who love the Saviour remain united in Him when outwardly separated.

Neufchatel, for the sake of those who resided there, was equally attractive to them as Berne.

We arrived at Neufchfatel, writes John Yeardley, on Fifth-day, and on Seventh-day (11 mo. 1) settled into a comfortable lodging on the border of the lake. It feels to us the most like home of any residence we have had during our pilgrimage in foreign lands. Our suite of cottage-rooms runs alongside the water, with a gallery in front, and the little boats on the lake, and the mountains in the distance, covered with snow, are objects pleasing to the eye. What gives us the most satisfaction is the feeling of being in our right place, and to meet with such a warm reception from our dear friends.

This feeling was succeeded by some religious service of an interesting character, in reviewing which John Yeardley says:—

23rd.—Among those who meet with us, a little few know how to appreciate true silence, others are not come to this. But for what purpose are we here? If it may please our Heavenly Father to make use of us as feeble instruments of drawing a single individual into nearer communion with the Beloved of souls, we ought to be content; and, blessed be his Holy Name, his presence is often felt in our hearts.

As has been already said, they looked forward to spending the winter at Neufchatel. This intention, and their ulterior project of visiting Germany in the spring, were frustrated by the alarming illness of Adey Bellamy Savory, Martha Yeardley's only brother, the news of which reached them on the 29th of the Eleventh Month.

This day's post, writes John Yeardley, brought us the sorrowful news of the severe illness of our dear brother A.B. Savory. The family at Stamford-hill have expressed a strong desire for us to return, if we could feel easy so to do, and seeing that we have pretty much got through what we had in prospect in Switzerland, we are, on the whole, most comfortable to go direct for London, and leave Germany for the present. Our great Master is very gracious to us, giving us to feel sweet peace in the termination of our labors, and to look forward with hope to seeing our native land once more.

The next day was First-day; the parting with their Neufchatel friends was very affecting.

11 mo. 30.—A precious meeting this morning. The presence of Him who died for us was near, to help and comfort us; our hearts were much tendered by his divine love. The taking leave of our dear friends here was almost heartrending. There is a precious seed in this place, which I trust, is a little deeper rooted since our last visit, and it is the prayer of my heart, that the Saviour may water and watch over it, and that it may produce abundance of fruit to his praise.

They took their departure on the 2nd of the Twelfth Month, and arrived in London on the 13th, travelling through the north of France twelve days and six nights.

Through divine mercy we arrived safe in London, on Seventh-day evening, and lodged with our beloved relations at Highbury, who received us with all possible affection. Our spirits on meeting, mingled in silent sorrow, while we were enabled to rejoice in God our Saviour. On First-day morning we went over to Stamford-hill, and soon were introduced to our beloved brother, who was perfectly sensible, but extremely weak. The peace and serenity which we were favored to feel by him was an inexpressible comfort to our sorrowful hearts.

A.B. Savory died the next Third-day evening, and his remains were interred on the First-day following.

21st.—This was the day fixed for the solemn occasion of accompanying the remains to the tomb. The body was taken into the meeting-house at Newington, and the company of mourners and all present were, I believe, comforted and edified through the tender mercies of our Heavenly Father. J.J. Gurney's communication was particularly precious; he also paid a consoling visit to the family after dinner.

We shall conclude this chapter with some reflections made by John Yeardley, on reviewing the changes which death had produced in the circle of his relations:—

1835. 1 mo. 31.—Waking this morning, I took a view of the great ravages death had made in our families; when this exhortation pressed suddenly and with peculiar force on my heart,—Be thou also ready. My soul responded, Thou Lord, alone, canst make me ready. O gracious Saviour, who died for me, be pleased to redeem me from the bond of corruption, and purify my heart from earthly things.



CHAPTER XIV.

FROM THE END OF THE THIRD CONTINENTAL JOURNEY, IN 1834, TO THE COMMENCEMENT OF THE FOURTH, IN 1842.

During the seven years comprised in this chapter, the materials which exist for delineating John and Martha Yeardley's history are meagre. Of the numerous journeys which they made in the course of this period, the record kept by the former frequently consists of a mere itinerary.

After attending the Leeds Quarterly Meeting in the Third Month, they returned to their home at Scarborough, but soon left it again to be present at the Yearly Meeting in London. The Society of Friends began about this time to be agitated by differences of opinion, chiefly on points of doctrine. John Yeardley not only kept himself sedulously free from the spirit of party, but, whether from a natural aversion to public life, or from the fear of exceeding the limit of his own calling and abilities, he abstained from taking a prominent position, and left it very much to others to sway the affairs of the Church. But he was not unmindful of the dangers by which the Society was assailed, and he bent the force of his mental vigor and Christian experience towards the promotion of individual growth in grace and faithfulness to the divine call, and the diffusion of clear and comprehensive views of Scriptural truth; and when the hour came for sympathising with those who were harassed by doubts, or such as were subjected to trial by the effect of religious dissension, he was ready, with his beloved partner, to share the burden of the afflicted, to probe the wounds of those who had been bruised, and to pour in the oil of heavenly consolation.

His note regarding the Yearly Meeting is short:—

The business was of a most important nature, and sometimes very trying. We had strong proof that many spirits professing to have made long progress in the Christian life were not enough subdued by the humbling power of divine grace; but through all, I trust, our heavenly Father dealt with us in mercy, and sent help and wisdom to direct and strengthen his poor tribulated children.

On returning to Scarborough, he writes:—

I humbly trust our hearts are truly grateful to the Author of all our mercies, who has granted us once more a little rest of body and sweet peace of mind; but, as it regards myself, I must say that inward poverty has prevailed more since my return home than it has done for the last two years of absence. It is well to know how to suffer want, as well as to abound.

Want of occupation was not one of John Yeardley's trials, even when "standing," as he expressed it, "free from any prospect of immediate service, and feeling much as a vessel not likely to be brought into use again." Scriptural inquiry, the study of languages, and of the history of the Church, watching the progress of religious light and liberty on the Continent of Europe, his garden, the binding of his books—these were the employments of his industrious leisure. To these must be added the time bestowed on several small publications from his own and his wife's pen (the latter chiefly poetical), of which the "Eastern Customs," a volume which was the product of their united labor, and the materials for which were supplied by their journey to Greece, is the best known.

But there was another object which drew largely on John Yeardley's time during his residence at Scarborough. This was the unsectarian schools established in the town for the education of the industrial classes. Of these the Lancasterian School for girls was his favorite, and the deep and steady interest which he manifested for the improvement of the children, as well as the peculiar talent which he evinced for attracting and developing the youthful mind, are shown in an affectionate tribute to his memory by the late mistress of the school:—

For many years he was a visitor at our Lancasterian School, where it was his delight to impart knowledge to a numerous class of girls. He had a happy method of communicating information. The children used to listen with the greatest attention and delight; they never wearied of his lessons. Scriptural instruction was his first object; the children were questioned on what they had read, and it was delightful to watch their countenances whilst he explained portions of Scripture, which he frequently illustrated by the manners and customs of Eastern nations; and this he did in a way that rendered his teaching valuable, as he did not fail to make an impression and gain the affections of his hearers.

One little girl we had whom he used to call the oracle; and indeed she was not inappropriately so-called; for whenever any of the girls were at a loss for an answer, they invariably turned to her, and seldom failed to receive a response to their silent appeal. This gifted child died between the ages of sixteen and eighteen; he was a frequent visitor at her bedside during a lingering illness, and it was his privilege to see that his labors had not been in vain.

I shall never forget him, not only for the important instruction I derived from him, but also for his valuable assistance. During my labors of more than twenty-five years, I had none to help me as he did. When at home he never failed to visit as every afternoon: no matter what the state of the weather was—snow, wind or rain—he was to be seen at half-past two, with his large cape folded round him, bending before the blast, toiling up the hill near the school. So accustomed were we to him that his coming was deemed a matter of course.

After our Scripture lesson a portion of time was devoted to geography, particularly Bible geography; then he would talk to them of places where he had travelled: his descriptions of the Ionian Islands, the people and the schools he had visited there, used to be a favorite theme, and very interesting. In this way our afternoons were passed, and truly they were times of profitable instruction.

He seemed to care less for the boys' school; he did occasionally visit them, but the girls were his pets. I have sometimes thought his knowledge of the ignorant and degraded state of the females in Greece was the cause of his taking so much interest in the education of the females in his own land.

In addition to J. Yeardley's labors at the Lancasterian School, some of the older girls and a few others who belonged to the school assembled at his house one evening in the week, whom he instructed in reading and Scriptural knowledge. Some of these still speak with gratitude of the benefit they then received.

In the Ninth Month of 1835, John and Martha Yeardley visited Settle Monthly Meeting, and Knaresborough, under appointment of the Quarterly Meeting. On their way thither they took up at York their aged and valued friend Elizabeth Rowntree of Scarborough, who was on the appointment.

Her company, says J.Y., was a strength and comfort to us; she exercised her gift as an elder in a very acceptable manner, in many of the families we visited, as well as in the meetings for discipline.

This notice is succeeded almost immediately by the record of Elizabeth Rowntree's sudden decease:—

On the 25th of the Eleventh Month, we were introduced into deep affliction by the sudden removal of our precious elder, E. Rowntree. Her dependence for salvation was fixed on her Saviour, the Lord Jesus Christ, through the help of whose Spirit she had been enabled to lead a life of godliness and of usefulness to her fellow-mortals, and was always concerned to give the praise to Him to whom it was due,—the Lord of Lords.

This event, with the removal of another pilgrim to become an inhabitant of the world of beatified spirits, and the pressing subject of the divisions in the Society, form the topics of the following letter from Martha Yeardley to Elizabeth Dudley:—

Scarborough, 12 mo. 5, 1835.

During our long sojourn last spring, in and about my native city, my spirit was deeply oppressed, nor did the conflicts endured appear to produce much benefit either to myself or others. Here the way is more open, and, although we also deeply feel the effects of the storm which has been permitted to assail our little Society, we are more able to endure it; and desire to abide in our tents, except when called upon to defend that immediate teaching of the blessed Saviour, upon which we depend for our little portion of daily bread. I can truly sympathise with thee, my beloved Betsy, an having to bear more of the burden and heat of the day, and I do fervently believe with thee, that the more, as individuals, we commit and confide the cause to the Great Master, in humble prayer, the sooner it will be extricated from the perplexities which now harass and distress those who are truly devoted to it.

We have deeply to mourn for our endeared and highly valued E. Rowntree, suddenly taken from us about ten days since. She and her sister R.S., from Whitby, had spent the preceding evening with us; she was in usual health, and sweetly cheerful, rejoicing that she had been enabled to assist dear Sarah Squire in a family visit to Friends of this meeting, though she did not sit with her in the families. I heard of her illness and hastened to her; she appeared sensible but for a very few moments after having been got to bed; yet was heard begging for patience under extreme agony; then added, We had need live the life of the righteous, for it is an awful thing to die. Then she suddenly sank into a slumber, and lay till a little after nine at night, when her purified spirit was peacefully liberated.

We have got through Pontefract and some meetings in the neighborhood to our comfort, and on the journey had an opportunity of sitting beside the dying bed of dear Sarah Dent, which was indeed a peaceful scene. She was perfectly sensible, and so animated that I could hardly give up hope of her restoration. But she had not herself the least prospect of life, and said that, although she had found it a hard struggle to give up her husband and children, she had, through the mercy of her gracious Redeemer, attained to perfect resignation. This was about a week before her death, and we have heard since, that a little before the close, she said, The Lord Jesus is near, I want you all to know that He is near indeed!

Dear Ann Priestman has united with us in visiting this Monthly Meeting: it seems now best for us to remain at home for a short time, under the bereavement which our own meeting has suffered.

In 1836 they again attended the Yearly Meeting; of which John Yeardley thus speaks:—

The Yearly Meeting was, I think, on the whole, satisfactory, much more so than many Friends could look for, considering the discouraging circumstances under which we came together. The main bent in all the important deliberations on subjects of great moment to the well-being of our small section of the universal church, was to adhere to the long-known principles of the Society, and to turn aside the sentiments of opposing individuals in the spirit of gentleness, forbearance and love.

They visited many meetings in going from and returning to Scarborough. The most interesting of these visits was at Thame, in Oxfordshire, which John Yeardley thus describes:—

6 mo. 14.—Went in the evening to Thame, and had a meeting with a few who have met in the way of Friends for about five years at Grove End. There are only seven or eight who meet regularly, but they are often joined by a few others. No notice had been given to their neighbors of our coming, but on seeing us go to the meeting many followed; the room was quite filled, and a precious meeting it was. Their hearts are like ground prepared for the good seed of the kingdom. The nature of spiritual worship was pointed out, and testimony borne to the teaching of the Holy Spirit.

This little company reminded us of many such which we met with in foreign countries, particularly in Switzerland and Germany. We had a good deal of conversation with William Wheeler, who was one of the first to meet in silence. He was a leader in the Wesleyan congregation, and became uneasy with giving out hymns to be sung with those whose states he knew did not correspond with the words. He would then sometimes select a hymn most suited by its general character to the company; at other times he would leave out a few verses, and select others which he thought might be sung with truth by the whole congregation; but the thing became so burdensome that he was obliged, for conscience' sake, to leave it altogether, and sit down with a few others in silence. At first they met with opposition, and even persecution, from persons who came to their meeting to disperse them. On one of these occasions a few rude young men had banded together to beset them the next meeting-day, and disperse them. W.W. was strongly impressed that it was right for him to proclaim an awful warning to some—that the judgments of the Almighty awaited them, that eternity was nearer than they were aware and he wished them to consider and prepare for it. One of the disturbers was taken suddenly ill, and died before the next meeting-day; which produced such an effect on the others that they never more molested the little company in their worship.

In reviewing this journey, J.Y. says, under date of the 25th of the Sixth Month:—

I trust my faith is afresh confirmed in the gift of the Holy Spirit to lead in the way of religious duty, and to give strength to do His will. Lord, grant that the remainder of my days, whether few or many, be entirely devoted to the holy cause of endeavoring to promote the Saviour's kingdom on earth.

In 1837, John and Martha Yeardley were occupied with making circuits in the service of the gospel through several counties of England. They were attracted to Lancashire, which they visited in the autumn, by the peculiar state of some meetings in that county, an extensive secession having taken place not long before. The difficulties which they had to encounter on this journey are represented in a letter from Martha Yeardley to her sisters, written at Manchester the 4th of the Ninth Month, 1837.

I do not recollect that, in my little experience, I ever had more preparatory exercise of mind to pass through; and I believe it has been the same with my dear J.Y. We have, however, in many of our visits, been much comforted under the belief that those who remain firm in the testimonies given us to bear are in a more lively state, and more banded together, than has been the case heretofore, and that, through the mercy of our holy Head and High Priest, there is a renewed visitation to many. In the public meetings, of which we have had many, there has been a rather remarkable openness to receive the truths of the gospel, united with our view of the spirituality of this blessed dispensation.

We approached this place in deep prostration of spirit; and truly we feel that all the previous baptism has been needful, in order to enable us in any degree to perform our duty here. There has been a sore rending of the tenderest ties, and the wounds are not yet healed. There are a few who entertain ultra views, and their over-activity tends to keep up excitement in those who are wavering and have not yet left the Society: this makes it very difficult for moderate people to stand between them, and calls for very deep indwelling with the blessed source of love. On the other hand there are, I fear, very many who rejoice in the delusive suggestions of our unwearied enemy—that the cross of Christ is not necessary—that they may speak their own words and wear their own apparel, and still be called by the name of Him who died for them. I think we never have had more to suffer than in some of the meetings we have attended, from a disposition, perhaps in some degree on both sides, to criticise ministry: still there are, I believe, many precious individuals among the young and middle-aged who are under the forming hand for usefulness. There is indeed a loud call for laborers in this large and mixed meeting; and we are ready to weep over the vacant seats of those who have deserted their post, and, I greatly fear, are seeking to warm themselves and others with sparks of their own kindling.

Another letter from M.Y., written at the conclusion of this journey, supplies a few more traits of the Christian service into which they were led in the course of it.

Scarborough, 10 mo. 7.

We remained nearly a month in our lodgings at Manchester, receiving and paying visits, some of which were very interesting. Dear H. Stephenson and family were extremely attentive, and her daughter Hannah was our constant guide in that large place. We spent First-day at Rochdale, and in the evening a large number of young Friends took tea with us, between thirty and forty. This has mostly been the case on First-days, both at Manchester and elsewhere, and these opportunities have tended to our relief.

After this we bade farewell to Lancashire, under feelings of thankfulness which I cannot describe, for having been mercifully helped and preserved through such a warfare.

In the autumn of 1839 they again travelled southwards, directing their steps through the eastern counties of England, and London, Surrey, and Hampshire, to the Isle of Wight, where they spent five weeks exploring its coasts and corners, in search, not of the naturally picturesque, but of the beautiful and hopeful in the moral and religious world. They returned home by Bristol and Birmingham.

So attractive to their spirits was the Isle of Wight, that the next year they repeated the visit, going thither after the Yearly Meeting. In the Seventh Month they attended the Quarterly Meeting at Alton, and on their return to Newport were accompanied by Elizabeth and Mary Dudley and Margaret Pope. They remained in Newport and the vicinity several weeks, during which time, amongst other engagements, they conducted a Scripture class with some young persons three evenings a week. In a letter dated the 27th of the Sixth Month, J.Y. says:—

My dear Martha feels deeply for the Unitarians in this place; we sometimes think the way may open for us to help them a little. Their great stumbling-stones are, the want of clearness in the mystery of the oneness in the Godhead, and of faith in the practical influences of the Holy Spirit, as operating on the heart of man. Our morning reading opens a suitable door of communication for those whose curiosity prompts them to seek our company.

In company with Elizabeth Dudley they hold several public meetings at various places on the island. They have left no record of this service, but we have a notice of the meeting at Porchfield, in a letter from E.D.

The meeting was very satisfactory, sweet and refreshing to our spirits. The road was rough and hilly. We were behind time, and our friends being punctual, the house looked full when we got there, though more followed, until not only within but outside the walls there was a crowd of orderly, attentive people. Many of them were happily acquainted with the power of religion in their hearts, and prepared for spiritual worship. The assembly was composed of various denominations from a straggling village and more remote habitations. The chapel was built many years ago, by a pious man, now above eighty years old, who was with us, and who enjoys to have the place used by any who from love to Christ and the souls of men are attracted to visit them. The simplicity and openness to be observed and felt that evening was a comforting indication of freedom from party spirit, and those vain disputations which in so many instances keep Christians at a distance, and mar their individual peace as well as usefulness.

Before they left Newport, they provided, with the help of several friends, suitable accommodation for the little meeting of Friends in that town. On taking leave of the island, which they did in the Eighth Month, John Yeardley remarks:—

We have had much comfort and satisfaction in our sojourn in this place: a strong evidence is felt in our hearts that it has been ordered by the Lord. We have cause to acknowledge that our labors have been owned by the Divine Presence in our various exercise for the promotion of the Saviour's kingdom.