Saturday, December 21.

Started three men out to skin the bullock and bring in the hide. Wind south; sky overcast but hardly expect rain. Tree marked MK (conjoined), 20-12-61 on south side. The men returned with the hide at 8.10 a.m. The bullocks, after their distress of yesterday, were left unhobbled and have strayed to some distance, not having come up yet at this hour—8.10 a.m. Bullocks arrived, and we started at 10.20 a.m. Camels and horses started at 12 o'clock. Came through some splendid feed to another lake containing but very little water and that quite bitter. Start for Moolionboorrana at 3 p.m., and arrived there at 5.53 p.m. Distance about twelve and a half miles; first half distance was flooded flats and sand-ridges. On our way to Thoorabiengannie at four and a half miles made the bed of a dry lake, Tiedhenpa, with splendid feed and park-like appearance of considerable extent. The remaining part of the distance was alternate low sandy hills and flooded narrow flats. Camels and horses arrived at Lake Moolionboorrana camp on north-east side of creek at 3.30 p.m. Distance about eleven miles. Exceedingly scant of timber. The cart and sheep not having got to camp, started Bell and Wylde with three horses back to ascertain the cause of detention, and take food for the men if they were unable to bring the dray during the evening; but it became so dark that they could not retrace the tracks of their horses. At 10 p.m. returned to camp without having seen or heard anything of cart or sheep. Will start off again at daylight. A number of natives round the lake. Innumerable pelicans, and numbers of ducks, gulls, waders, cormorants, fish, and pigeons, and abundance of green grass; but no shade or protection from the extreme heat of the sun. Rain has fallen here some short time since, small quantities being still in the claypans; and from the cloudy appearance of the sky with thunder to the north I fancy it has fallen heavily in that quarter.

Sunday, December 22.

At daylight sent Mr. Hodgkinson, Bell, and a native with four horses to cart, to know cause of detention, etc. Unfortunately the thermometer got broken yesterday which will prevent in future our ascertaining the temperature of the interior, which is much to be regretted as no doubt it would interest many. Wind south. Bullock cart got to camp at 8.20 a.m. having had an upset. Nothing particularly wrong with it. Sheep all right. Will spell today to recruit bullocks and men that were with them, all having had to be on watch during the night as the natives were round and about them the whole time—for what purpose they did not know. At 8.30 wind chopped round to north-north-east and very warm. This lake is circular and almost without timber; but is a fine sheet of water and will stand the weather well. There is a great deal of soda in it. It is about two and a half to three miles long from north to south and about two miles from east to west; the creek that supplies it (filling it from north-west end) coming from north. The bullocks are so jaded with the heat of the past two days and the heavy nature of the ground that they have hardly left the water during the day without being driven; they even went so far as to go out and lie down in it for hours.

Monday, December 23.

Wind north-north-east; sky very much overcast to southward and round by west to north. Bullocks started at 7.40 a.m. I started with native at the same time and reached the Creek Gadhungoonie, with a considerable quantity of water and fully half a mile in length; but so thoroughly bitter and salty that it was quite unfit for man or beast. Must now start out to another creek some distance off (by report) although I meant to give the bullocks a short day of it. Spelled till the camels came up and started on to Abberanginnie Lake Creek, or rather I believe, Watthiegurtie Creek, which is the creek that fills the lake—the latter being now dry. Came over some seven and a half miles of country to Watthiegurtie, which is also salt and bitter, and started then for Caunboogonannie. At 2 p.m. passed in my way two salt lakes to the south with salt-water in them, respectively named Anodhampa and Thoorpalinnie; passed also to north a recently dried up lake named Gnooloomacannie, well timbered round its shores, with abundance of grass all over it. Arrived at this splendid lake (Caunboogonannie) at 3.55 p.m. Splendid water and feed. This lake also is nearly circular and about two and a half to three miles in diameter. This lake I have called Jeannie after a young lady acquaintance—Miss Pile of Gawler. The cart could not get further than the last bitter water we passed today. Immediately south of that is the dry bed of Lake Uilgobarrannie, and immediately on the north-west side of that lake is the dry bed of Lake Caunmarriegoteinnie. This little creek, flowing nearly south, fills Abberingannie Lake, now nearly dry, and Lakes Anodhampa and Thoorpalinnie—both at present with water but unfit for use; plenty of good feed round all.

Tuesday, December 24.

At daylight sent Mr. Hodgkinson to the cart with a packhorse and two canteens of water, and to point out a more firm place for the cart to cross Watthiegurtie Creek than where we crossed the camels and horses, it being very boggy. A vast number of natives here, and upon the whole about the finest race I have seen in the colonies, and at present apparently friendly. Any quantity of fish and hundreds of pelicans. This country is fit for any description of stock and, with anything like a moderate supply of rain, would be most excellent country; even as it is it is not equalled to the southward as far as Kanyaka, Mr. Phillip's station near Mount Brown. Mr. Hodgkinson found a better crossing for the cart a little north, and it arrived here in safety at 12.30 p.m.—they found a little drinkable water last night. Kirby, with the sheep, got astray today but was soon picked up again and brought to camp about sunset by Wylde and Bell.

Wednesday, December 25.

Christmas Day; wind variable, principally from the south, but warm. Natives were prowling in numbers about our camp late last night. I sent up a rocket that exploded well and had the desired effect, causing a general rush of the whole of the sable gentry towards their camp, which latter in their fear did not check their mad career until they found there was no pursuit; but today they again came up to our camp quite unconcerned as if nothing had happened—better it should be so as no doubt I shall find them of great use in pointing out the principal waters within their knowledge. Spelling to recruit everybody and everything, and hope to make a good start tomorrow morning. Had an excellent dinner of roast mutton and plum pudding and did not envy anyone in the City of Adelaide.

Thursday, December 26.

MK (conjoined), Decr. 23, 24, 25. Dig. Arrow at 7 o'clock. Documents deposited for relief party under tree marked as above. Wind strong south-south-east. All the animals right this morning; started the bullocks and sheep at 7.45, rounding the north end of lake—my course is right through it bearing 89 degrees for Lake Dhalinnie. At two and a half miles came to creek that falls into this one we are now encamped on; go up it half a mile north-east to cross it; sent the cart round by the creek to be on level ground whilst I go direct to Dhalinnie. At four and a half miles clear the lake, and at three and a half miles further arrive at the Lake Dhalinnie—a treeless lake, fully a mile from north to south and little better than half a mile from east to west. Appam Barra from this bears 4 degrees, Cannboogonanni camp 269 degrees. Started at 10.11 a.m. to meet the cart on a bearing of about 330 degrees to take them to Appam Barra; meet the camp 10.30 and go on a bearing of 6 1/2 degrees for Appam Barra at 10.40. After spelling ten minutes crossed creek at 11.53; at 12.10 got to Appam Barra Creek, well filled with water, going north-north-west from north-north-east, then round to south-south-east and south, in the distance filling a few lakes in its course on coming from the first quarter—a considerable number of natives here. Went on the north-north-east course one and a quarter miles on bearing of 8 degrees; camped immediately beyond where a branch leaves the main creek going southward—a good-sized creek about, at its junction, seventy yards wide and fifteen feet deep; main creek about one hundred yards wide and twenty to twenty-five feet deep; lots of mussels, crayfish, and fish of all sorts. No great abundance of feed here nor is the country so good as has been passed, having a very desert and sterile appearance with a jumble of sandhills, flooded land, and a considerable quantity of samphire bushes, large saltbush, polygonum, and other shrubs. The natives (a fine body of men) whether from curiosity or otherwise, were with much difficulty got away from the camp at night.

Friday, December 27.

Wind north-east; the animals went straying some considerable distance and were late in being recovered (4.30 p.m.) having gone back to last camp, therefore we did not get a start today. Half of the horses broke and lost their hobbles; and the loss of chains is serious as they cannot be replaced here.

Saturday, December 28.

Not a breath of wind at daylight. Distributed yesterday to natives (fifty-three) necklaces, etc.; there was a considerable number more men present in the morning but they had gone somewhere before the distribution. They are a splendid lot of people and in most excellent condition, much better than the appearance of the country here would warrant. They appear friendly but were about during last night. A large flight of galahs just passing. Gulls, pigeons, and ducks of all sorts abound. It was my intention to have taken the cart round to examine the lakes and creeks east and south of my present position; but as the sandhills are rather large and steep I will do it with the camels and horses, and merely today take the cart to a better place for camping during the time I am engaged at this work, and more on the course I wish to follow after this part of the work is finished. Marked tree at camp MK (conjoined), 26, 27-12-61. Horses, bullocks, camels, sheep all right, although dropped a lame ewe heavy in lamb last night which has not yet been recovered. Started at 7.30 and went round northward one mile and crossed creek at four miles; got to a pretty little lake Wattiwidulo. Abundance of good feed and water; natives round the lake; but on going about half mile to top of a small sandhill I then had opened to my view an extensive basin of water forming part of the lake continuing far off to south-west by south. A splendid sheet of water which I have named Lake Hodgkinson after my second in command. Course today 338 degrees. Immediately on arrival here was completely besieged by the natives, male and female, young and old, for beads for necklaces which I distributed as far as they went, but it has much reduced my supply and leaves but a scanty remnant for the next lot we meet, as meet them we surely will in such a country as this, affording them as it does such a supply of food. I will proceed with a couple of camels and some horses to the eastward a short distance to examine some lakes and creeks reported to be in that quarter, and will leave the remainder of the party in camp here till my return. The country travelled over today though a short distance was very good—plenty of grass on the sandhills of a good sort. Although that veteran explorer Sturt must have passed not far from this in his last attempt to gain the centre of the continent he reported to have only fallen in with, or had reason to believe, there were but few natives. How the large body of people that is scattered all over this part could have escaped him I cannot account for. Go where you will you will find them in groups of fifties and hundreds, and often many more, and generally a jolly lot of fellows and all in capital condition. As has been noticed by former explorers the females in number amongst the children are much greater than the males, but neither very numerous. Amongst the adults (both sexes) they knock out the four front teeth of the upper jaw; but there are others both male and female that are quite perfect, more here than noticed anywhere else on the journey. Killed a sheep on arrival here today to jerk for our coming journey to the east, but was so fat that the small flock had to be examined for a poorer one for that purpose. That does not speak badly of the part of the country we are now in.

Sunday, December 29.

Camp at Wattiwidulo, or Lake Hodgkinson. Just where we are encamped by it it does not appear to be deep, but to the south and west I fancy there is a good deal of water. Wind south-west and exceedingly hot and sultry. In the afternoon an old man arrived here from our old depot and reported that a party of whites had arrived at the late depot with a number of horses and were on their way this course from the settled districts. What faith to put in the report it is difficult to say. Ready to start east in the morning.

Monday, December 30.

Sky very much overcast and very sultry; wind from north-east. Started at 8.10 with two camels and five horses and a week's provisions. At four and a half miles got to Appambarra, near old camp at the dray crossing. At 8.45 arrived at about one mile west of dry lake Toondowlowannie; centre bearing of lake north and south, three miles, by a width east and west of one and a half miles; well grassed. At ten and a quarter miles passed south end of lake and travelled on flooded ground on west side of Cariderro Creek, in which there is water, to where we cut the Cariderro Creek, about sixteen miles, at a place in the creek where the large creek branches off east and fills a large lake now dry; abundance of feed. Lake called Marcourgannie and found water in creek—a short distance south, from which quarter it appears to come—it is a splendid gum creek, from eighty to one hundred yards wide and fifteen to twenty feet deep, and flows a northward course. Started after spelling a time and went one and a quarter miles on bearing of 239 degrees to Appadarannie, now a dry lake with abundance of good feed in its bed; then went south by east eight miles along the Cariderro Creek. It is a splendid one and well lined with fine gumtrees, and as far as we went I may say was one continuous sheet of water, and with not less than from 200 to 300 natives. I have named it Browne Creek after W.H. Browne, Esquire. Many of the natives have apparently quite white hair and beards; they were particularly anxious that we should encamp with them; they were the first tribe that we fell in with so fully armed, every man with a shield and a lot of boomerangs and some with spears. I thought it better not to camp there as they had a good deal of sneaking and concealing themselves from bush to bush, and might have brought about a disturbance, which I did not desire. Took some water in air bags and started out from the creek one and a quarter miles; then on a bearing of 5 degrees for Appacalradillie lake, seven miles fully. Crossed and camped on east corner of dry lake Marcourgannie, and on the margin of the dry lake Merradaboodaboo; the bulk of this last lake bearing north from this and splendidly grassed.

Tuesday, December 31.

Started at 6.30 a.m. to Appacalradillie lake, through side of Lake Merradaboodaboo; passed several flooded flats proceeding east from last-named dry lake—the first of which was an extensive one, passing on our course from left round to the right and apparently round to south as far as visible, then over alternate and indifferent flats and large sandhills—a considerable deal of flooded land to the westward. At fifteen miles arrived on top of a very prominent sandhill which I have named Mount MacDonnell, from which hill opens out to our view two beautiful lakes which, in honour of her Ladyship and His Excellency the present Governor of South Australia, I have named respectively Lake Blanche and Lake Sir Richard, separated by a small sandy rise through which passes a small channel that connects them, and which I have named New Year's Straits.

Wednesday, January 1, 1862.

Started at 6.45 round the first lake, Blanche (Lady MacDonnell) to where the creek passes through a low sandhill and connects it with the other lake, Sir Richard (His Excellency the Governor). The first-named of these lakes is, where it was tried, between five and six feet deep and seven and three-quarter miles in circumference, nearly circular, bare of timber, and tens of thousands of pelicans on it, one solitary swan, with innumerable other birds, gulls and ducks of various kinds (one new and one dark brown large-winged), cormorants, avocats, white spoonbills, crows, kites, pigeons and magpies of various kinds, and plenty of fish. The other lake immediately adjoins and its south-east end is more to the eastward than Lake Blanche, it is nearly circular and is six and three-quarter miles in circumference, but when casually tried was not quite five feet deep; pelicans, birds of kinds, fish, etc., as the other. Between forty and fifty men (natives) came to meet us as we were passing round the lakes at the creek, which they had all to swim and, from the appearance of the camp some short distance off, there could not have been less than about 150, all apparently friendly. Started from north-west end of Lake Sir Richard and went along the course of the creek that fills these lakes on a bearing of 305 degrees for —— miles; then south-south-west half a mile to a fine basin of water in the valley of the creek, three-quarters of a mile wide and more than that in length, and opening again and contracting alternately up to Lake Blanche which, in honour of the veteran explorer, I have named Sturt's Ponds; abundance of fish and fowls. From this point course 308 degrees up the creek for four miles; at two miles a creek went off to the right through a flooded flat, thence on a course varying from 224 to 239 degrees, principally through what was recently a large lake—now a splendidly-grassed plain of vast extent, and at the latter part a few small sandhills. Distance today thirty-six miles.

Thursday, January 2.

At camp and keeping the New Year instead of yesterday. It is quite a treat to sit on the banks of this fine sheet of water and look at the innumerable waterfowl on its surface chasing their prey.

Friday, January 3.

Heavy dew. Started out this morning with two camels and five horses to examine some lakes and creeks to west and south of this position; I take with me Mr. Hodgkinson, Middleton, Wylde, and native. On my return intend moving camp to north and east to where I saw the creek bearing off to the right or north-east from about two miles north-west of Sturt's Ponds; which creek I am led to believe runs off into the interior by north on the round by west and south, passing my old depot, Lake Buchanan. On second thoughts I have moved camp to a better place on this lake, north, on the opposite side, where there is better shade, and the glare of the sun less injurious to the eyes of the party than here. Marked tree MK (conjoined) from 28-12-61, to 3-1-62, and started to examine the lakes reported to be south and west. At six miles arrived on opposite side of where we camped for the last few days, and estimate its circumference at fifteen to sixteen miles, its greatest breadth two miles, its least about 600 yards—at a promontory that runs into it from the south-east side. A large creek fills it from south-east, about two and a half to three miles west-south-west from our New Year camp which I have named Hayward, after Frederick Hayward, Esquire, of Aroona, South Australia—a deep swimmable creek, well timbered, plenty of fish and fowls—then went southward to Lake Wattygaroony, a fine deep lake which is named Lake Strangways after the Honourable the Commissioner of Crown Lands. The creek that fills it from the south and east I have called the Alfred. The lake is quite nine miles in circumference; scant of timber; from the creek round south-west end and side; abundance of feed, etc., from north side of lake and one mile north-westerly of clearing it; our new camp on Lake Hodgkinson bears 71 degrees. About eight miles; returned to camp same day.

Saturday, January 4.

Camp, Lake Hodgkinson. Shoeing horses, repairing pack-bags, etc.

Sunday, January 5.

I, with Poole and a black, went out north to see what the country was like. On bearing 360 degrees over sandhills arrived at and found lake dry; four and a half miles of stones around it, same as in stony desert; went through the middle of it, it sweeps round from north-east to south-west; passed through it where it was two miles broad, it is fed from Lake Goonalcarae (now dry); the lake passed through has not had a supply of water for years apparently; lots of dead mussels and crayfish in its bed. At two and a half miles further (nine miles in all) over sandhills, changed course to 16 degrees for a large sandhill in the distance, the country to the north being rather low. At two and a half miles on this course came upon a succession of flooded basins, some of great extent, Gnatowullie, and slightly lined with stunted box, some as high up the sides of the sandhills as forty-five to fifty feet, entirely supplied by the rains but have not had a supply for some time, as there was neither water nor vegetation; which flooded basins continued till I went nine miles on this last course and from the top of the hill could distinctly see the beds of innumerable others of the same kind. From west round to north-east and east some dark-peaked sandhills, north-east of last course, as far as I could discern with the aid of a glass; turned back on course of 200 degrees to where I saw some shady box trees about two and a half miles, and turned out horses to rest and went to camp direct. On bearing of 187 degrees at five and a half miles came to the watercourse that supplies the dry lake Marroboothana from Goonalcarae, which I have named the Ellar, and the creek that fills it, in which there is at present water, Ellar's Creek.

Monday, January 6.

Marked tree MK (conjoined), from 3 to 6-62, Dig arrow at 7 o'clock, and deposited a document in tin envelope for the search parties from the north coast. Started at 6.30 with the bullock-cart, the horses and camels following, for Lakes Lady Blanche and Sir Richard, for the purpose of following the creek I observed when there the other day, and which the natives inform me goes northward, then westward and southward, through the stony desert. Arrived about 3.30 by rather a circuitous route to the northward of our proper course, but was guided that way to avoid many heavy sandhills. Distance between twenty-two and twenty-three miles.

Tuesday, January 7.

At Lake Blanche; went out north with Mr. Hodgkinson and native to examine the creek alluded to, but to my disappointment found that it only formed a large valley and, at some distance on a dry lake, Millie Millie, to the eastward of Lake Sir Richard, over some high sandhills; returned very much chagrined and have made up my mind to stay here a short time, although very poor shelter from the excessive heat of the sun (today even it blows as if from a furnace) and endeavour with the camels to ascertain the description of country first to the east, and probably also from here, if the camels will stand it, to the north; from the appearance of the country about here I do not expect any water at least for some distance; the land low, hills between the two lakes and running northward for some five or six miles have just the appearance of dirty drift snow heaps with heath bushes protruding; whereas those round to north-east, east, south, and south-east are a glaring red, with coarse grass and shrubs. Shortly after my return today a number of natives got the bullocks on the east side of the creek New Year Straits, about two and a half miles from camp and raced them round Lake Blanche from us in sight; on seeing which five of the party got mounted and armed and went after them; they had taken the bullocks two-thirds of the way round the lake and by some means they broke back from them; they did their best to overtake and turn them again for about two or three miles; when they observed the horsemen they immediately took to flight, and where shelter was so abundant, of course, were immediately out of reach and sight of the horsemen. What their intentions were was difficult to say but it looked rather suspicious; took the bullocks to camp late and hobbled most of them. The evening before leaving Lake Hodgkinson, about 8.30 p.m., they took both horses and bullocks and raced them round from us for about three miles but were pursued on foot by three of the party who succeeded in getting all the bullocks and horses after having broken three-fourths of their chains, and were in a very excited state, nor could the horses be quieted for more than two hours afterwards, but the wary savage was nowhere to be seen.

Wednesday, January 8.

Moved camp about three-quarters of a mile to a little wood and camped. Fearfully hot, wind east-north-east.

Thursday, January 9.

Camp, Lake Blanche, between the two lakes, where one would imagine the breeze from such a body of water would render the air cool, but the heat is almost intolerable. Wind from east-north-east to east-south-east blew quite a gale in the night, levelling tents, etc., to the earth, accompanied with a good deal of thunder and lightning and slight spitting of rain for a few minutes, when it ceased. The gale kept on for two and a half hours and gradually died away.

Friday, January 10.

Camp, Lake Blanche. One would suppose that after so much thunder and lightning the air would be more pure and cool, but nothing of the kind was apparent, nothing but intense heat, prostrating all the animals. Horses and sheep taking refuge from the intense rays of the sun round and under such bushes or trees they could get till the cool of the evening. Wind light easterly. I sincerely wish we had a change of the weather, warmer it cannot get, so that the change must be for the better, and enable us to be doing something. This is far from the most agreeable position for a camp for, although we have any quantity of water, we have no shade, and the glare reflected from the low light-coloured sandhills and flats is very trying to the eyes; even the natives who are a numerous body here (150 to 200) scarcely stir out, except morning and evening for fishing, fish being their chief sustenance with addo, Burke's nardoo.

Saturday, January 11.

Sun rose red as a ball of fire. We had a magnificent sunset last night; wind chopping all round the compass; intense heat; fleecy clouds.

Sunday, January 12.

Camp, Lake Blanche. Before daylight a considerable deal of thunder and lightning. Squally but passed off without any rain. Cloudy during the day. Wind from all quarters, heat intense, and sultry towards evening, threatened much for rain; wind from east to north-east, accompanied with thunder and lightning. I sincerely trust that we may have a good fall of it, if it comes at all. Rain all blew past and wind chopping in all directions.

Monday, January 13.

Wind from all quarters but rather more cool than for the last few days. If nothing particular occurs before tomorrow morning will make a start out eastward for fifty or sixty miles to see what sort of country it is, and if there is any main creek running north up through it. It is very calm towards evening with heavy clouds all round the horizon.

Tuesday, January 14.

Eastward today over undulations, sandhills, claypans, and flats for nineteen miles till we reached a very prominent high hill which I have called Mount Wylde. A considerable range is visible to east and south of east. Went on for seven miles further over sand ridges covered with spinifex, successive box-covered flooded flats, formed by heavy rains, through which were innumerable small creeks no doubt in heavy rains forming source or tributaries to Cooper's Creek. Took the horses out this morning to make the work lighter for the camels on the march. Sent the horses back again this afternoon; gave the camels from three to four gallons of water each—they appeared as if they could have drunk all that we possessed. Distance travelled today about twenty-six miles. East in the far distance I can trace the continuance of the range.

Wednesday, January 15.

Every appearance of a hot day. Followed over hard sand undulations, well-grassed with some little spinifex intermixed, with a creek on our left, and crossed it at eight miles going south-east then apparently south—gum and box on creek and a sandy bed. We then passed over some good grassed country with stony flats and latterly a stony sandhill, the ascent difficult for the camels on account of the sharp stones for ten miles; distance making in all eighteen miles. Low hills about six or seven miles ahead running north and south; nothing very marked about them. The heat fearful; camels not doing so well as I could wish so will give them all the water that is to spare and proceed towards camp this evening in the cool—they won't feed nor stay without constant watching. Started back at 8.30 p.m. Went first to the south of west to avoid a stony hill by going round a valley then went on for about fifteen miles.

Thursday, January 16.

Started at 6 a.m., then bore for Mount Wylde. The greater portion of last night's and today's journey was over spinifex country. Passed immediately after starting a couple of creeks, drainage to the north—whether they continued that course and gradually swerved to the east and joined a larger one under the main range to east and formed one and passed on to the southward to Cooper's Creek, or formed rainwater lakes (vast numbers of them here and well timbered and often visited by natives) I cannot pretend to say. From Mount Wylde came in on the lakes on our outward track and arrived at camp at 2 p.m. Found some of the party, namely Bell, Davis, and Maitland, laid up with dysentery, the former seriously. Have made up my mind to leave this after one day's spell for the camels and go back to different water, as this must contain some medicinal properties that I am ignorant of, and affects all of us more or less; no doubt the weather has a good deal to do with it—the heat is fearful.

Friday, January 17.

Wind east by north. If nothing particular occurs will start from this in the morning as I see nothing can be done here but going north for some distance, and that I can do from where I proceed tomorrow as well as from here, and with better water for the party. Excessively hot and sultry today and very cloudy. We have more or less lightning every day or night and it appears occasionally to be raining all round us but never gives us a benefit. Blew strong from south-east all night. Marked tree MK (conjoined), fm. 6 to 18-1-62.

Saturday, January 18.

Wind from south-east. Bell very little improved, the rest much better. Bullocks up and yoked before sunrise. It appears to be gathering all round for rain but as usual I suppose will pass off without our being favoured with any. The natives lately have hardly ever visited the camp; I suppose their curiosity was satiated after the first few days, and when they found they could not drive off the animals without being heard or observed, and the probable consequences, they thought proper to keep aloof. Start this morning for Goonalcarae Creek, or Ellar's Creek, where there is abundance of fine feed, water, and protection from the excessive heat of the sun. Bullocks start at 7 a.m.; passed on our right the recently-dried bed of a very nice lake, and so deceptive was it from its appearance some distance off that even the natives insisted that there was still water in it, but there was not any. The lake I have called Deception—it is a nice lake and retains water for a very long time. I pushed on through the flooded and well-grassed bed of Goonalcarae, or Ellar's Swamp. First went on a westerly course then on a southerly to the creek, but did not admire the water which was neither abundant nor sweet, although there were innumerable birds and some natives there. Went on to Lake Hodgkinson and was astonished to find it so much dried up in only twelve days, that being the time since we left it, and the water now quite bitter; then went on to Hayward's Creek that fills Lake Hodgkinson, and there found abundance of everything that we required—feed, water, wood, and shelter from the broiling sun. The dray did not get this length but camped on east end of lake, and obtaining for their use water, by digging, at four feet from the surface, good and clear; the cart will come on here in the morning and I shall remain here till there is a change in the weather as it is fearfully trying; there has been a shower on our course since we passed on our way to Lakes Blanche and Sir Richard, but nothing of any consequence. The horses were more done up today than I have yet seen them from the oppressive heat.

Sunday, January 19.

Dray came in about noon; a considerable number of natives here on creek.

Monday, January 20.

Camp, Hayward's Creek; wind very strong from north-east to south-east.

Tuesday, January 21.

Camp, Hayward's Creek; wind chopping all round; heavy rain apparently to the north and north-east, but little of it came this way; gave the native who has been with us so long an old ewe to distribute amongst his friends.

Wednesday, January 22.

At daylight a Scotch mist from south; by 7 a.m. it came on a steady rain and lasted till 8.15 a.m., when it cleared off, still appearing to rain to north-east and west of this. Clear to the south with the wind from latter quarter; during remainder of the day weather cleared up in all quarters with a south wind, although a good many clouds are flying about. Went round the lake to see what quantity of water was likely to be in the claypans where it fell the heaviest yesterday; there is not so much as I expected but still I will start out north tomorrow to ascertain the nature of the country and see if there be any watercourse in that direction that may hereafter be of use to parties wishing to pass to the north coast; but from what I saw to the east, and the country between that and this, I have very little hope of anything of the kind, but believe there is a creek to the westward of this that either comes from or goes to a latitude beyond and east of Sturt's furthest.

Thursday, January 23.

Started out at 11.30 a.m.; got to the top of a sandhill on north side of Lake Hodgkinson about six miles from camp; camp bearing about 175 degrees; passed (dry) Lake Marraboothana; then through flats and basins, a large one cutting our course. Changed course and came to a dry creek called Pantyhwurladgie; then on a bearing of 284 degrees over stony desert for a large sandhill; a little water back about two miles from whence we shall have to send for it amongst the stones. Total distance travelled about thirty-three miles; to the north-east and south all stones, but sandhills bound the two latter quarters; beyond the termination of large sandhill there is nothing visible. To the west is a succession of sandhills running north and south, and terminating in desert and stony plains. Round to 348 degrees; in the distance are to be seen some terminations of inconsiderable sandhills.

Friday, January 24.

The country being short of water I merely go out today to return tomorrow; leaving here all the rations I intended for the journey northward, which for the present I had abandoned with the intention at a more suitable time to try it. Natives are with me but they declare it to be all dry; but I cannot rely on their statements at all times. The water, our supply for today, is about two miles off in the desert; our journey being over a succession of very high sandhills and stony flooded flats; skirting, for the first three-quarters of an hour, the desert to this spot, with a large red-topped sandhill on our right which terminates close by; have not seen a drop of water during the day and camp without it. I return tomorrow early for the last water which will be nearly dried up by the time I reach it. Distance travelled today twenty-four miles. Tops of all the hills to north-east and east are very red, quite free from vegetation on tops and some with spinifex on their sides. To north, termination of sandhills with stony flats; north-west, unbroken horizon; from west-north-west round towards south-west a sandhill in the distance; altogether a dreary spot. A heavy-timbered creek comes in from south-west into the desert and appears in the distance to have a tributary from east-south-east; the timber ceases as it comes on to the open desert plain between four and five miles from this. Quite an unbroken horizon to the west of north-west for some distance. The sandhills that are in view are small and detached.

Saturday, January 25.

Started back and got to water just in time to give the horses about half as much as they could drink and a little for ourselves; rapid evaporation has taken place since we left yesterday, for then there was enough for 100 horses, now there is not half enough for our eight; so must make for one of the permanent waters south of this tomorrow; have to close-hobble our horses and tie their heads down to them to prevent them straying too far. Strong breeze from the southward.

Sunday, January 26.

Started at 7 a.m. for Coonhadie, a rainwater watering-place in desert, but found it quite dry; start for camp, Hayward's Creek, and arrived at 1 p.m.; distance about twenty-nine and a quarter miles direct from place to place, but we made it more, being obliged to go round to avoid sandhills and rounding Lake Hodgkinson. The horses stood much in need of water and seemed to enjoy it much, from quantity they drank and the time they took about it. It was fortunate for us that the weather was cool for the season of the year. Wind south and east; found all right at the camp and the men that were ailing much improved. The water in the creek is diminishing gradually, about three-quarters of an inch per day.

Monday, January 27.

Camp, Hayward's Creek. Wind easterly. Natives very much displeased at our remaining here but until the weather suits my purpose better than it does at present they must put up with it.

Tuesday, January 28.

Camp, Hayward's Creek. Wind east and south, very hot. Several of the party still complaining, the cause of which is difficult to say as the water in the creek appears good and there is plenty of it. The water in the creek is between five and six miles long. There is a lake or swamp rapidly drying up close by, from which there is a very disagreeable odour when the wind is from that quarter; the ailing may proceed from the malaria arising from that place; other waters in the immediate neighbourhood drying up fast. Natives in a great state of excitement today, wishing to inform me that the flood, or arimitha, was coming down and that we must get out of this or we should be drowned (I only wish it would come) stating that it had now reached as far as a place I know well, so tomorrow will make it my business to ride over that length to the south and east to Browne's Creek to ascertain the truth or otherwise of this information.

Wednesday, January 29.

Wind north and east. Started with Middleton to ascertain if the flood is really coming down or not; followed this creek round my way and was quite astonished at the number of natives I saw—they must have been considerably over three hundred—and I am satisfied that I did not see them all as I did not go quite up to their camp; we had no conception that there were any such numbers so close to us, a distance of only some six or seven miles. There are myriads of fish of various kinds. There was a camp close by till yesterday, within less than half a mile, but I never saw more than one hundred in it at one time—averaging from forty to sixty. They pass our camp with their nets to drag the creek between this and the lake, and come back loaded with the denizens of the creek; they are not at all liberal with them. I should be sorry to trust to their hospitality or generosity as I think they possess but little of either of those qualities. Arrived at Browne's Creek, at the place named by natives for the arrival of the flood, but found their tale false—they saw me on my way there and I suppose knew my errand—some of shallowest waters in the upper holes of the creek had dried up since I saw them last but there is abundance lower down.

Thursday, January 30.

Wind east. Camp, Hayward's Creek. Natives kept much aloof today, I suppose in consequence of my finding their piece of gratuitous information false. Self and all the party affected with griping and vomiting with the exception of Middleton and Davis. Cannot make out the cause; I wish it would rain that I could start through the desert out of this and get on to the waters to north and west of this, and be doing something, as this sort of life is worse than hard work on the constitution. There is one thing, this detention here has enabled us to have the backs of the working animals attended to better than we could otherwise have done, and they are all on splendid feed, but the flies and excessive heat of the sun is very much against the healing of any kind of sores or wounds. I had occasion to bleed several of the horses and, from the mere incision caused by the fleam, the necks of several swelled up very much although every precaution was adopted.

Friday, January 31.

Started out to pick an easy track for the cart towards Moolianbrooana Lake; found a pretty good one on to the old cart tracks which will do; went then to ascertain how the waters were standing in Caunboogonannie, or Lake Jeannie, and found that, although there was still a very considerable quantity in the lake from the vast number of waterfowl upon it, and perhaps other causes, it had acquired a disagreeable taste, and I have no doubt that it will get quite unfit for use in a month or so if it does not receive a fresh supply during that time. From a hole dug about eighteen inches from the water's edge I had a drink and a pot of tea of excellent water; lots of natives round and in the lake, although round the margin I observed innumerable small fish (parrow) dead, washed in by the wind and ripple of the lake. Our horses did not seem to admire the water but that I am not astonished at.

Saturday, February 1.

Hayward's Creek. Wind east; party still ailing.

Sunday, February 2.

Camp, Hayward's Creek. Some of party better and some worse. Wind easterly.

Monday, February 3.

Camp, Hayward's Creek. Wind easterly; digging a well, in case the origin of our sickness be caused by the water in the creek.

Tuesday, February 4.

Camp, Hayward's Creek. Wind north and gusty with hot puffs. Got the well down about fifteen feet; the lower part, for about seven or eight feet, chiefly through sand; abundance of water but salt to the taste and I think unfit for use. Had it emptied out when it soon filled; the water continues salt and lathers well with soap and can wash well; it cannot be used by us although the natives don't despise it.

Wednesday, February 5.

Camp, Hayward's Creek. Wind from east and west of north during the morning with hot gusts, very oppressive.

Thursday, February 6.

Camp, at Hayward's Creek. Wind north till late in the afternoon with some thunder and lightning and a good many clouds; appears in the distance to be raining in patches, but I have so often been deceived that I now take less notice of appearances of that kind; late in the afternoon the wind chopped round to south. Has been very hot and sultry all day. Intend in the morning to send Mr. Hodgkinson and Middleton to Lake Goonaidringinnie to ascertain for certain if that lake still contains abundance of water, and good, as I think it does—and on the way to pass and examine Lake Moolionboorana to see if it will suit as a stage to camp at on our journey to Goonaidringinne, as it was not very deep when I was there last and I have my doubts about it. The natives report a considerable quantity of rain to have fallen to the east and towards north-east in the country north of Lakes Blanche and MacDonnell or Appacalradillie. If so I wish it had fallen when I was there that I might have been able to have examined the country there thoroughly.

Friday, February 7.

Started Mr. Hodgkinson and Middleton to Lake Goonaidringinnie. Wind from all points of compass with many clouds; weather disagreeable and sultry during the day; rained steadily once or twice during the night with a good deal of thunder and lightning in the distance; much rain must have fallen to east and north of east as well as to the south.

Saturday, February 8.

Splendid rain and steady. Thundering all round with every appearance of a considerable quantity of rain which will, I trust, come in such abundance as to enable me to push to the north-west across the desert, as up to this time I have been completely shut up, as it were, here for want of a decent shower to enable me to do anything of service anywhere; and the provisions gradually getting less although the ration is now as low as I can well make it. I have reduced it first from 8 pounds of flour per man per week to 7 pounds, then to 6 pounds, then to 4 1/2 pounds; sugar reduced from 2 pounds per man per week to 1 1/2 pounds; and tea from 4 ounces to 3 ounces per man per week, with plenty of good mutton; but we find the supply of flour very scanty at the 4 1/2 pounds. There has been a good deal of loss in weight in the bags of flour, as much as 9 pounds per 100 pounds; and a great portion of it had a most disagreeable taste and flavour from some naphtha, or some such liquid, having been carelessly allowed to be spilt over it on its way, I understand, from Port Augusta to Blanchewater; and I attribute the whole of the illness of the party to the use of the flour saturated as it is by this rascally stuff. In the afternoon Mr. Hodgkinson and Middleton returned; they report having seen a considerable quantity of rainwater about thirteen miles this side of Lake Goonaidringinnie, and plenty of water in that lake and good; also plenty of natives on its banks. Lake Moolionboorana very much reduced and unfit for my purpose. Heavy rain all through the night with heavy thunder and lightnings. I have now abandoned the idea of going to Goonaidringinnie and will start towards Eyre's Creek, passing or following, at some seventy miles from this, a large creek named by the natives here Panbacra.

Sunday, February 9.

Still raining a little and the ground too soft to travel over but, if much more does not fall, will start in the morning. The rain that has fallen is quite a godsend, both to this party and to the natives who have started off to the sandhills in all directions to obtain the lizards and other animals that escape to the sandhills for protection from the floods.

Monday, February 10.

Started the cart at 7.50 a.m., and horses and camels to start afterwards for Wattiegoroonita. Passed over sandhills to top of a sandhill that rounds the lake, and over alternate sandhills and bare flats for nine and a half miles, passing at about six miles on the last course a small salt lake; travelled on the north-east side of it as it was boggy. The lake is called Warmagoladhailie. The ground very soft and heavy travelling. Travelled along the sand ranges and over spinifex and stony flooded flats, then over one small sandhill and stony desert. Camped at a few bushes to boil the teakettle, there being not a blade of grass; but a few saltbushes are near which the animals must do the best with for one night. Astonishing the small quantity of water passed for the last eight or nine miles. Distance travelled today twenty-four miles. The natives are out here looking for the snakes and other small reptiles and animals that live in the sandhills everywhere in this quarter whether hot or cold, regardless of the want of water. This is a most dismal-looking camp; there are a few isolated sandhills north and west of this. Cart and sheep not up tonight.

Tuesday, February 11.

The cart did not arrive last night as above-mentioned for the reason that one of the bullocks was taken with the staggers. They camped about two and a half miles back and arrived here this morning at 5.45 a.m.; turned the bullocks out for a time to get a drink and pick a few bushes, and started again at 7.48. Travelled for nine miles over desert stony plains and got to top of large sandhill. This hill is called Cannacannanthainya. Some distance off another sandhill called Mallapoorponannie; and another not quite so far called Cookorda. Another long leading sand range in the distance called Goontyaerie, at the northern termination of which is at present a dry creek known by the above name. There is a native well there and another a little further west. To give the ailing bullock, as he is a good one, a chance of recruiting, I have dipped down the sandhill and camped at 11.35 a.m., and for another reason, it looks like rain. During the afternoon several nice showers.

Wednesday, February 12.

Steady rain for about four hours last night and this morning breaks fine and clear with a wind north. Plenty of water lying all over the desert. Dray started at 7.40 a.m. and at six and three-quarter miles distant got to Mallapoorponannie sand range, the southern end of which is called Cookorda; about two miles off its northern end dwindles down to nothing in the desert. To the northern end of Coontarie sand range a creek and well by the same name; about twelve miles off a detached sand range in the desert, at the north-west end of which are two waters named respectively Dhooramoorco and Moongaara; also on north-east side of sand range another water in creek called Caddryyerra, also a sand range about four to five miles distant. There was a number of small detached sandhills going round to the westward, then a perfect blank round to Coontarie well. At about three to four miles struck the flooded flat from the main creek I am now going to. At eleven and a half miles further came to and crossed a deep creek crossing my course at rightangles. At two miles further came to water in Daeragolie Creek, same creek that I crossed before two miles from this; within this last two miles the whole flat is cut up into innumerable channels most difficult to travel over, I must therefore see and get a better road for the cart. Here there is not a green blade of grass to be seen; there are some green shrubs in the bed of the creek that the camels are fond of. I arrived at this camp at 2.5 p.m.; distance travelled today twenty-three and a half miles. This is an immense creek, timbered on its bank with box, bean, and other trees, the water is in detached holes but good and apparently plenty of fish and ducks. No natives seen yet although their tracks are fresh; the natives that are with me say a number of them have taken advantage of the rain lately fallen and gone out to the sandhills on both sides of this creek. By native report the creek flows just here south and east, but within two miles from this it turns quite round by south-west and west, passing Coontarie. Neither cart nor sheep arrived in camp tonight.

Thursday, February 13.

The cart on its way here this morning had an upset in one of the creeks close by but fortunately little damage done. The road it appears to me from this on our course is much better than we have come over, if so we shall make good speed. I spell the remainder of today refreshing the animals. This creek is about eighty to ninety yards wide, very precipitous banks, and from fifty to sixty feet deep, with innumerable small creeks. About 400 yards from this, above us, a large creek leaves this one, heavily timbered and well-defined. Limestone crops out in many places. It is from fifty to seventy yards wide and from fifteen to thirty feet deep. It sweeps away to the west and south, close under some sand-ridges that are close by. Wind from south and west, very sultry. There has been a good deal of rain here lately (and from the appearance of the country there has been none for some time previously). Nothing green except in the bed of the creek and the trees. The whole country looks as if it had been carefully ploughed, harrowed, and finally rolled, the farmer having omitted the seed. Two natives came into our camp at dark, apparently without any fear, and stayed with us for the night.

Friday, February 14.

Started at 8 a.m. On the west side of the creek Panbaera a large creek leaves it at about 400 yards from camp, and the ground heavy, with intense heat. I camped after a journey of fifteen and a half miles on same side of creek, close to a deep waterhole in the creek. Name of creek Toomathooganie. Immediately above the camp on opposite side of creek a large red sandhill comes right on to creek called Manganhoonie, from the top of which one gets an extensive view of such country as there is, the creek in the distance, north, it filling the valley with its timber bearing 340 degrees. On our way here today, about three miles from camp, passed the remains of Burke's horse and saddle; they were recognised as his by camel dung being about the camp. No marks on any of the trees visible. Camel dung also close to our camp. Another of our best bullocks was obliged to be left, having been struck down with the sun as the other was a few days ago. Cart late in arrival at camp in consequence. One of our natives took French leave immediately after getting to camp; the other tried hard also but was too closely watched.

Saturday, February 15.

Started some hands back to see if the bullock was still alive, if so and unable to travel, to kill him and have him jerked, and if dead to have him skinned. They brought back word that he was still alive and might get over it. Late getting ready to start owing to the uncertainty whether the bullock was to be jerked or not. Bullocks started at 10.35 a.m., and if I get feed must make a short day of it. If the road keeps as heavy as it has done since coming to this creek I shall have to abandon the cart, which for many reasons I shall regret. Wind north and disagreeable. Got to camp at five miles bearing 337 degrees. The heat so oppressive travelling completely out of the question. Will leave the cart and many sundries here. Seized with a violent attack of dysentery. Our remaining native quite broken-hearted at losing the other, shall be obliged to let him go this afternoon; it is a pity as he would have been of much service in giving me the names of the different waters and places which to someone in future might be of much use. However I may get another if I soon meet with other natives; but unfortunately at present, from the rain that has lately fallen, they have principally left the creek and gone to the sandhills. Their habitations are very numerous on the creek so they must be pretty strong in number here. Lots of fish still in the holes; appear to be multa multa principally. We got some from the two natives at our first camp on the creek, and lots of mussel shells about their old fires.

Sunday, February 16.

In camp, very ill.

Monday, February 17.

In camp, very ill; still getting the gear ready for tomorrow, if I am able to start—pain slightly gone. Had the curiosity to weigh and found I had lost fourteen pounds in three days from the violence of the attack; when I left town I weighed fifteen stone eleven pounds, now I weigh exactly twelve stone. Clear but excessively hot with occasionally a little thunder and some showers this morning, and it looked as if we were going to have it heavy but it passed off.

Tuesday, February 18.

With one thing and the other, and one of the bullocks absent, was late at starting. Pain gone today but excessively weak. Started at 11.30, course 340 degrees; flooded box-cracked land for one mile. At seven and a half miles further passing over bare mud plain destitute of any vegetation, with a couple of sandhills and the main creek beyond them to the east. On this distance half a mile off is the bed of a large creek flowing to the south and west, no water at present in it. Close to this point one of our best bullocks was struck dead with the heat of the sun walking leisurely along carrying nothing; the rest of the party were much in advance and, as it was such a fearfully hot day and not a drop of water near, nothing could be done with the flesh of him unfortunately. At five miles further came to a large deep creek flowing westward, no water in it. Up to this point was to be seen in the distance westward apparent breaks in the sandhills with box timber in each; and I have no doubt many of those places form into large creeks by the terrific overflow of this main creek. At one mile further on (340 degrees) crossing this creek on to top of sandhill, changed course to 38 degrees, the creek from the sandhill bearing considerably eastward. At two and a quarter miles over flooded flats and at some rainwater where I afterwards camped; at two miles further struck the creek but not a drop of water; searched up and down for some distance but none to be found, so returned to the rainwater two miles back from the creek, where fortunately there was sufficient for all the animals. The flood here, when it does occur, fills the whole valley between the sandhills on either side of the creek, and after such occasions must appear a splendid country; but at present no country could possibly look more desolate. This cannot possibly be Eyre's Creek as it is much larger in the first place, and seems to bear away too much to the east ever to be a continuation of Sturt's Eyre's Creek. Traces of Burke's camels and horses are still to be seen on the creek; I fancy on his return from the Gulf. I feel very ill this evening, hardly able to sit in the saddle.

Wednesday, February 19.

Sent Mr. Hodgkinson and Middleton off up the creek to search for water, and Middleton to return after travelling about eight miles if successful in finding a supply to enable us to proceed further up the creek; Hodgkinson to go further on and examine the creek and return in the afternoon to where it was arranged we should camp. Middleton returned about noon with the intelligence that about seven miles up there was abundance of water in the creek for our immediate wants; so we started late in the afternoon as the distance was short and the day fearfully hot, bearing of 350 degrees for four and a half miles, the creek appearing to bear too much east, change course to 360 degrees for two and a quarter miles further, and it getting late changed course straight on for the creek, bearing of 37 1/2 degrees for three-quarters of a mile, where I struck the creek with a little salt water in its bed; down the creek from this about half a mile is the water, and where we afterwards camped but without knowing (in the absence of Middleton, who was seized with a violent illness on the way here and did not get to the camp at all during the night). I went up the creek for two and a half miles, found it dry, and returned to water and camped.

Thursday, February 20.

Camp on east side of creek where the latter is upwards of 180 yards wide and about 80 feet deep, western banks very inaccessible, the east bank where we have camped less so with immense polygonum bushes. Very unwell still; we were not aware of the cause of Middleton's detention with the camels, on which was the food, till he and Davis made their appearance after the morning had somewhat advanced, when they arrived and explained the cause; Middleton was very ill indeed of dysentery and could scarcely crawl.

Friday, February 21.

In camp; I feel a little better, Middleton still very unwell; miserable camp but can't help it.

Saturday, February 22.

Started Mr. Hodgkinson and Bell out on the west side of the creek to examine ranges that appear stony in the distance, and ascertain if this creek receives any tributary from the westward of north-north-west likely to be Eyre's Creek, as there is no doubt this is not it, and return by this creek to ascertain how the water lies in it. I am much better today and Middleton appears to be on the change for the better; wind south with a few clouds.

Sunday, February 23.

Middleton improving; I feel much better, so much so that, as there is a cool breeze from the south, I am induced to ride out to the eastward to examine the country between this and the stony hills visible from here on the east side of the creek; went four and a half miles course 135 degrees, over flooded flats and a couple of sandhills, from top of the highest sandhill changed course to 113 degrees for two and a quarter miles to top of another larger sandhill, passing one other in my course, then on bearing of 15 degrees for six and three-quarter miles over flooded flats with a few smaller sandhills, but soon terminate on both sides of my course; the current over this tract of flat being to the south of east, then three-quarters of a mile on bearing of 15 degrees over one sandhill to top of rocky hill, from which the flooded flat I have just passed gathers together in the distance to a creek, and goes off on course of 155 degrees, and no doubt is the feeder of the waters now in the creek to south and east of our present camp namely Barrawarkanya, Marroboolyooroo, Cadityrrie, Meincounyannie, and Gnappa Muntra; then two and a quarter miles on bearing of 10 degrees to top of sandy and stony hill, with four or five mallee trees and a few other shrubs; marked one of the mallee trees. From this hill the creek passed end of table-topped stone range on bearing from six to nine miles distant north-west and round northward to east, peaks and hills of stone with intervening flats, some of earth, others of stone, are visible as far as eye can reach; from this hill our present camp bears about 227 1/2 degrees and distant about eleven and a half miles. In the evening Mr. Hodgkinson and Bell returned having examined the hilly country, but could find no tributary joining the creek; saw water up some distance that will suit our purpose so far. I will in a day or two ride over to Eyre's Creek and ascertain if either of the northern search parties have got there yet, and deposit a memorandum for them there and see if a route be practicable westward to Stuart's country now, or if I shall have to wait for more rain: although we had such nice rain coming over the desert the excessive heat has absorbed most of it, and you may travel a day without seeing a drop; intend starting up the creek in the morning. Middleton much better. Mr. Hodgkinson saw one native and his lubra up the creek but had little conversation.

Monday, February 24.

Camped; the bullocks not found till too late to start. Mr. Hodgkinson tendered his resignation as second in command which I accepted, and from this date he holds no longer any position as officer in the party under my guidance. Poole had a sun-stroke during the day whilst out after the horses, but by cold application to the head he soon recovered.

Tuesday, February 25.

Rather late getting the animals ready for a start, the feed being so scant; started on bearing of 40 degrees, on same side of creek as that on which we were encamped, over flooded flats and sandy terminations: at five and three-quarter miles passed along and crossed a large deep creek in which there was a little water and a number of native wurlies. Course of creek nearly north and south, at seven and a quarter miles further over some abrupt sandhills, the summits of which had an almost perpendicular wall of pure drift sand, varying from two and a half feet to five feet in height and very difficult for the animals to get over, and flooded flats on same bearing; then changed course to 34 degrees for four and a half miles over similar country mixed with stone hills and flats, the creek being a long way to the west but now gradually approaching our course; then changed course to 14 degrees for one and one-sixth of a mile to creek, where luckily we found sufficient water for all purposes and in the bed of the creek a better supply of green grass for the animals than they have had for some time. Cloudy, wind north-east. The bullocks have not arrived tonight.

Wednesday, February 26.

Cloudy and threatening for rain; wind north-east. At 9.30 a.m. one of the men from the bullocks arrived and informed me that one of the pack bullocks had dropped and was killed to endeavour to make some use of his flesh. This is the same that had the sunstroke first but was apparently recovering; and another of our very best and generally quietest had that day bucked so much in endeavouring to get rid of his saddle that he disabled himself, fell down, and could not be got up; the remainder of the bullocks went off to feed but there he was where he fell in the morning beside his pack. Immediately on hearing of this disaster I forwarded some hands and packhorses out to convey to camp what was thought to be of any use. It has commenced raining and what little will be got cannot, I am afraid, be cured, as there is every appearance of a continuation of rain and there will be no chance of drying the flesh as we have no salt. If it was fair weather I would kill at once the disabled also, and have his flesh dried; but it would be no use at present and he may be able to get up after a spell and come in this length when, if the weather prove favourable, I will have him killed and jerked. The remainder of the bullocks (seven) arrived during the day and the detachment of the party with what was thought of use of the dead bullock; but I question much about its keeping as now it is raining steadily, but we will use as much of it as we can and save the sheep. None of our journeys appear to give the sheep the slightest inconvenience and they are as ready to commence their journey in the morning as the man that attends to them; in fact no party ought ever to go out exploring in the summer months without them. During the day I rode out to the tops of some of the stony ranges to get a view of the upward course of the creek; it seems to go off somewhere on a bearing of 50 degrees but I fancy will soon turn more to the north. It is quite astonishing to see the patches of beautiful green grass on the slopes of the stone hills in the small watercourses that fall down their sides; in fact the only thing like feed I have seen for some time, and what little there is, is in the bed of the creeks. The creek here has an anabranch that leaves it about half a mile above and joins again about half a mile below; width of island half a mile.

Thursday, February 27.

Rained heavily and steadily all night from the east-north-east; the ground at daylight a perfect bog. From the severity of the night some of our sheep got adrift but were recovered during the day. The creek, nine-tenths of which was yesterday dry, is now running a strong stream and momentarily increasing. Got all the animals across to this side during the forenoon as the rain appeared likely to continue; and now that it has set in will most likely inundate all the low flats and completely put a stop to further progress up the creek until the ground hardens a little. At such times the only place of safety hereabouts are the sandhills or stony hills; the latter I prefer, and will shift to one in the event of the rain continuing another night as steadily as it did last night as there, and there only, is there any feed to be had for our animals. They have fallen off considerably of late from the hot weather and the scantiness of good feed. As soon as they were taken over the creek they were taken out to one of the stone-ridges and there left in tolerable feed but not very abundant. The water is lying all over the flat in sheets and the creek rising rapidly. It must have been a very long time since this part of the country has been similarly visited with rain, as the country generally, the flats principally, had not any vegetation upon them of any useful kind. As I said before the stone hills, or rather the small creeks on their slopes, are the only places where there was any feed excepting in the bed of the creek, and now that last supply was gone, as the creek by this afternoon was swimmable.

Friday, February 28.

Raining all night but not quite so heavily; still very considerably. Our camp is like a stockyard in the southern districts much used in the wet weather—over our boots in mud and water; although on some of the highest ground just about here pounds of mud and rubbish adhere to your boots every time you lift your feet. Creek considerably more swollen; and as every place is so saturated with water and mud will not move out of this till tomorrow morning. In the meantime, in hopes that it will clear up a little and make the ground firm enough to bear the weight of the animals. It is well we left the cart or we should not have been able to move it from this, and every probability of its being carried away by the flood now rapidly approaching. We are now in that position and not far from the place where Captain Sturt dreaded being overtaken by rain. It is fearful to travel over but must make the best of it. I am very glad indeed that we have been favoured with such a copious supply; although for a short time it may prevent my travelling it will be the means of enabling me to move about afterwards as I may think fit. I wish I had a couple of months' more rations of flour, tea, and sugar, as then I could thoroughly examine the country in this quarter; as it is I will do the best I can. If this creek carries me much more to the north instead of going to the east as it now does I think it will take a run through to the Albert River; and if the steam-sloop Victoria, Captain Norman, has not sailed from there I think I will be able to get flour or biscuits in sufficient quantity to carry me back, and enable me to do all, or nearly so, that was required of me by the South Australian Government; if not at the Albert I will only be obliged to live the principal part of the return journey on animal food and what vegetables we may find from time to time—it won't be a very hard case but much more pleasant and agreeable if it can be obtained. It is very boisterous. Rain and wind from east-south-east. The creek rising steadily; by the morning it will be nearly or quite on a level with the way by which I shall have to travel in the morning for the high ground. It has a current of about three miles an hour, or similar to that of the Murray, for which reason I am led to believe that its chief source is some considerable distance away, although it receives innumerable tributaries on both sides above and below where I now am. The rain as it falls upon these stone-clad hills runs off at once into the small creeks, thence into larger ones on the flat land, then into the main creek after filling the waterholes in their respective courses. Towards evening it looks very dark and again threatens much for a quantity of rain; if so by morning we shall have the creek high.

Saturday, March 1.

At first blush of dawn wind from same quarter (east-south-east). Rained heavily all night and to my astonishment, instead of the creek rising as usual (three and a half inches per hour) it was now rising five and a half inches and hourly increasing. Although the creek has in many places overflown its banks, and consequently a much broader channel, we are completely surrounded with at least five feet of water in the shallowest place that we can escape from this by. After a breakfast by daybreak the animals are immediately sent for and, as the men start for them, drive before them our sheep for more than half a mile through a strong current, and swimming three-fourths of the time; they went over splendidly and were left on a piece of dry land until our camels and horses came and removed the stores etc., which fortunately they did with not very many of the things getting wet. The camels being brought in and loaded and out to where the sheep were first, I had two of them unloaded and sent back to carry to the dry ground any of the perishable articles such as ammunition, flour, tea, and sugar, which they brought in safety; for had it been put on the horses as usual, and not being able to keep them on our track, the probability is they would have to swim and completely destroy the ammunition and injure the other stores; the camels acted famously and from their great height were as good as if we had been supplied with boats. After getting all onto dry land they were repacked and went on to a very good camp, now that there is water, on a sandhill about two and three-quarters to three miles distant in an east-south-east direction through a good deal of water and almost impassable flats—the sheep even sinking up to their bodies in the mud; however we got them all over safely by early in the afternoon. Still showery and how long we shall be weather-bound quite uncertain; however there is plenty of feed for the animals here which is a great comfort, and what is more they are in perfect safety, as well as we are ourselves, from the boisterous state of the weather. Whilst on the creek in the morning, had there been much difficulty in getting the animals, we should have had to hoist the things up into trees, and constructed a raft of dead timber, and rafted them off to dry land, which would have been a great deal of trouble. Squally still; wind continues from same quarter. Towards evening a great portion of the flat is being covered with water from the creek, beyond the creek there is nothing visible but lines of trees, marking the course of the lesser channels, and stone hills, all else is a perfect sea. We were very fortunate to be caught in it where we were; had we been caught thus in making this creek, or a day's stage up it, to a certainty we should all have been washed away, or what would have been just as bad, be perched on a small island of sand with all the animals round us and nothing but starvation staring us in the face—as on most of the sand-rises down near the creek there was no vegetation of any consequence upon them.

Sunday, March 2.

In camp; light showers occasionally. The side creeks from the hills running themselves out and the upper parts drying; the line of creek visible in the distance through the trees during all its course now in view, and the flats considerably more covered. Thunder and lightning from north to north-east.

Monday, March 3.

Wind east-south-east; as usual squally. On turning in last night it had every appearance of rain and did rain steadily for some time but gradually held up for the night, and appeared as if we were to have a dry change to have all the things that got wet perfectly dry again. I shall get all the horses shod here as, from the soft nature of the flats for some time to come, they will be unfit to travel over the approaching stony country. Intend searching for the bullock that fell down the other day and ascertaining whether he is dead or alive; if alive to get him brought on here; and if much disabled to have him killed and jerked as soon as the weather clears and the sun shines out sufficiently for that purpose. Found bullock within a quarter of a mile of where he was left, able just to stand and no more; I will send out tomorrow afternoon and have him killed where he is and his flesh brought in here the morning following for the purpose of jerking it; he appears good beef. The country boggy; in the afternoon rode down to the creek through a good deal of water to ascertain the state of the flood, and had to swim some distance to get to the main creek; when I got there I was glad to find that not only had it, for the present, arrived at its height, but had gone down nearly nine inches. The last time this country was flooded it was about seven feet higher (perpendicularly) than it was this time, and the sand and stone hills were flooded for several feet up their sides from their base. Wind still from south-east by east, with an occasional slight passing shower, but symptoms of clearing up. This country is perfectly infested with wild dogs; and fortunately for us it is that I happened to have some strychnine, it plays great havoc amongst them; so voracious are they that when one of their fellows die the others fall to and devour him; by this means many are destroyed. Middleton recovering but very slowly; he continues to have a very troublesome diarrhoea—aggravated no doubt by being obliged for the last few days to be nearly always wet; sometimes even to swim clothes and all, and remaining in that condition till the camp was brought here and fixed; I should be sorry if anything were to happen to him as he is an invaluable man in such a party as this.

Tuesday, March 4.

Wind a little more east; shod some of the horses yesterday and some this morning. Four of the party after dinner started to kill the bullock; camp there and return in the morning with the meat when cold. I with Poole rode out to some high stone hills eastward to endeavour to get a view of the creek and ascertain, if possible, from which quarter it principally flows. After getting to top of the highest, from which one gets very extensive view to the north-east, there was a slight haze that prevented me positively ascertaining its actual course; there is very heavy timber on a bearing of 35 degrees, and appears surrounded by hills. The haze was so bad that I could not be certain; however I must travel in that direction first and trust that it suddenly turns round to the north; from this last point to a point 20 degrees west of north is a perfect sea, nothing but isolated trees showing above the water; I found the ground exceedingly soft, almost impassable in many places. On the tableland, at the foot of the high stone-hills I ascended, are lines of creeks forming the drainage of the country, thickly timbered with myall, and (for the place) a considerable quantity of good grass; abundance of water lying on the top of the tableland, with seagulls, ducks, cranes, etc., about and on the basins; seven black swans passed over the camp in their flight on bearing of 335 degrees, no doubt to some lake in that direction. Some few days ago not a bird was to be seen scarcely, but a few kite, crows, and galahs; now the whole country seems to be alive with ducks of various kinds, macaws, corellas, cockatoo parrots, and innumerable small birds.

Wednesday, March 5.

Wind light from north-east and every appearance of a beautiful day; the country beginning to have quite a green appearance, and the valleys being covered with lilies in full bloom, birds singing and chirping all around as if in spring. I am quite shut out for the present from Eyre's Creek; so will not attempt it. At midday the party arrived with the meat of the bullock and shortly after, when cutting it up for jerking, the head of the axe accidentally flew off and inflicted a severe wound in the knee of Maitland our cook; I hope it won't disable him long, although it is deep and in a nasty place. Got all the meat jerked by evening and trust we may have dry weather to have it properly preserved; lots of bones and scraps, of which we shall make soup.

Thursday, March 6.

Wind more to the north and every appearance of a dry day; busy shoeing the horses although they make a slow and sorry work of it.

Friday, March 7.

Wind changing all round except from the south and clouds gathering; with lots of black macaws screeching out in all directions. I hope they are not again the forerunners of a downpour, as they were of the last. The meat appears to be drying nicely, and will have it taken up this evening. It is very sultry.

Saturday, March 8.

Wind from west round to north and sultry with a good many fleecy clouds; shall finish shoeing the horses today with the exception of one which will require a couple of days' work first, being at present rather fresh (a good fault) and if all is well will make a start on Monday morning. The stony hills and slopes (that from every appearance, a few days ago, from their thorough bronzed and desert appearance, one would suppose grass never grew) are now being clothed in many places with a nice green coating of grass, and shortly will give this part quite a lively appearance, very different indeed from what it was when I first saw it, then it was as desolate a looking spot as one could picture to himself. In a couple or three months' time from this date one could with little difficulty (I am almost certain) start with a herd of any description of stock from the northern settled parts of South Australia and go right across the continent to whatever point he might think fit by this route, but I will know more about it shortly. This bullock gave us of dried meat about 116 pounds, apparently well dried, besides what meat was used with the bones to make soup. I hope it may keep well.

Sunday, March 9.

At Escape, or Number 7, Camp—will be all ready for a start in the morning. Wind north-east.

Monday, March 10.

Wind north and east, fresh breeze. Bullocks rather refractory at being packed, consequently late before we started. The journey today was over stony hills and flats, crossing several small creeks from the more remote hills, some running tributaries of Burke Creek for twelve and a half miles, and for three and three-quarter miles further over similar country, but more flat as we are now approaching the creek, and camped on the outside of a flat with some water and a fair supply of feed. I was here before the pack animals arrived but, after waiting for them a short time, found that in some of the small watercourses the water seemed to be driving, as I thought with the strength of the wind as is not unusual, and took for the time no further notice; the horses came up first and were unpacked, the camels were some time after and did not arrive until after I had returned from a ride to the top of a hill further up the creek, and at which place I went down to the water and to my astonishment found that the whole valley was a perfect sea, rising fast; on my return to where I had fixed the camp I found that the water had approached rather too close to be comfortable, and on the arrival of the camels had them unpacked some distance out on the top of a mound of stones and had all the horse gear removed there also; the bullocks did not get to camp till a little after sunset—one of them was so much trouble that I will do without him rather than be pestered with him, and put his load on one of the horses. The camels travelled over the stones with their loads apparently quite unconcerned; they are undoubtedly the best of all animals for this kind of work, they eat anything nearly, from the gumtree down to the smallest herb, and then come and lie down beside you, whereas horses and bullocks, if there be any lack of feed, will ramble all over the country; with sheep and camels one could travel all over any practicable part of the continent and keep them in condition.

Tuesday, March 11.

Where we had the packs removed from last night and all over the flats is a perfect sea of water, and even up within less than a foot of where I slept. From the creek having fallen not far from our last camp some days since I was under the impression that I would find it considerably down the further I advanced up its course; but now I find that the cause of its fall then was purely local from the tributaries immediately about and above having ceased with the rain to throw in a supply to keep it up. It now shows me that this creek must come from some very considerable distance; and I trust it may turn out to come from the north instead of too much east. It appears from where I was last night to incline towards the north. Wind from east-south-east. Started for a gap in the range over top of a stony range to a creek. High table-top ranges in the distance, north and south of 64 degrees; then to top of red sandhill; then for three and three-quarter miles to top of sandhill over flat stony plains with plenty of water and feed. From this point a perfect sea is before me. Came to camp on Myall Creek after passing two table-topped hills on left and a peak and table-topped hill on right; beyond the camp plenty of feed and water. Today passed a native camp, the fire still burning, and their tracks quite fresh; but did not see them. One of the bullocks did not arrive in camp; he knocked up and charged the men and they were consequently obliged to leave him. He was pulled about a good deal the day before in packing him so would be no use to kill him, besides I could not carry him at present; he may come up during the night, if so he may perhaps drive loose and will kill him when wanted.

Wednesday, March 12.

The bullock did not come up during the night so will be obliged to leave him behind. Started on bearing of 55 degrees for two and one-eighth miles and crossed several myall creeks; over stony ground; the flood close by obliged to change course to bearing of 97 degrees for three-quarters of a mile, then bearing of 91 degrees for two and a quarter miles over low chopping slaty and stony hills and several creeks; then bearing of 84 1/2 degrees for eight miles over stony ground, very bad travelling; then on bearing of 77 degrees for half a mile to camp on a frizzly-barked tree creek. Passed several of the same kind of creeks today with some timber; it is very hard and some of it (from three to four feet in diameter) would make splendid furniture. Another of the bullocks dropped down when within two hundred yards of the camp, apparently affected by the sun—although it did not seem to me so very hot, although it was sultry. I hope he will be able to go on in the morning or at this rate we shall soon lose them all. Wind has chopped round from north-east to south this afternoon and looks very much like rain. From top of a hill about a mile from here looking over a sea of water, two openings to be seen in the sandhills beyond, much as if one or other was the proper course of the creek; one at 355 1/2 degrees, with heavy timber, and one at 10 degrees, without so much timber but broader and more like. Natives raising a great smoke in the distance about five or six miles west of the 355 1/2 degrees opening. Blew strong in the evening and the rain went off.

Thursday, March 13.

Camp 10. Clouds all gone; wind north-east. The bullock unable to get up so I shall be obliged very reluctantly to leave him behind; but perhaps I may be driven back this way and he will then be of use. Started for gap in range bearing 120 degrees for four and a half miles over very stony country. On table-topped hill on the left, and the mass of ranges on the left, they look like the Reaphooks (hills) in the north of Adelaide at Marrana. I have called the main mass of ranges Wills Ranges, after the unfortunate gentleman who lost his life with poor Burke; then bearing 139 degrees for one and three-quarter miles; then a bearing of 155 degrees for six and a half miles, passing along and over sandhills and rich pasture, with cane swamps full of water, to south-east termination of sandhills. Thousands of flock pigeons, some teal, and a new duck. They have here commenced laying; several pigeons' nests were found as we passed along, and a duck's with eight or ten eggs in it; plenty of quail and other small birds. Saw a bustard in the midst of the sandhills which bear 340 degrees. To the north of this camp a short distance is a very strange round stone hill, capped with larger stone, which I have called Elliott's Knob. One native was seen today on the top of one of the stony ridges, but did not get within speaking distance of him; many tracks were discernible for the last eight miles. From top of one of the stone hills to right of gap in range a perfect sea was before me from 298 degrees round north to 95 degrees, with nothing but here and there the tops of trees that line the creek only discernible, and sand and rock hills forming islands; and in the distance to north and west the hills that bound the vast expanse of water appear like islands far off in the ocean.

Friday, March 14.

Camp 11. Started on bearing of 90 degrees for five miles to top of long stony ridges. For the first two miles through swamp and water and sandhill, leaving on left hand a very nice lake, and on the right some little distance off a sand-ridge running along swamp; in the distance south is timber denoting a creek which forms this swamp and lakes—the remaining three miles of the five very stony and bad travelling. Immediately beyond me at the end of the five miles stretches a large dry bed of a lake eastward, with a considerable swamp to south round to 80 degrees, following the foot of a well-defined range, at the north-east termination of which range, visible from here, are several smaller and larger table-topped hills and gaps; then on bearing of 80 degrees, passing through an arm of dry lake; good travelling for nine and a half miles and camped on small sandhill at a claypan; the flood from three to four miles off to west of north; sandhills ahead.

Saturday, March 15.

Camp 12, or packsaddle camp, having left one of the bullock's packsaddles on a tree. Bearing 48 degrees for three and a half miles over very heavy country with spinifex and abundance of other grasses; one and a half miles further same course over stony and sandy rises. A splendid tier of table-topped hills in the distance east and north; bearing of 65 degrees for two and a half miles, then bearing of 20 degrees over a flooded splendid swamp, principally, four and a half miles to a box creek where I will kill Ranger the bullock as he cannot travel. Distance travelled today twelve miles.

Sunday, March 16.

Went to have a view from the principal range eastward, the first and greater part of the road over magnificent pasture, nearer the hills very stony; found the hills distant twenty-one miles; from top of a large table-topped one I had a splendid view; the tier of ranges I am now on bear to east of north and west of south but are very irregular, many spurs running off from main range and forming a vast number of crown-shaped tops and peaked hills, with innumerable creeks draining the country from east and south to west and north and joining the main creek. Twenty-one miles travelled today bearing 62 1/2 degrees; from this hill another tier of similar hills is seen in the distance with a very large creek draining the country between this and that, flowing northward, and then west round the north end of the tier I am now upon, the south-west end of distant range bears 125 degrees, about twenty-five to thirty miles off, and the north-east end, dimly seen in the distance, bears 65 degrees, which tier of ranges and creek I have called Browne Creek after J.H. Browne, Esquire, of Booboorowie, South Australia. The range I am on and the tier northward to where the creek (Browne's) passes round the end of them I have called Ellar's tier of table-tops; the tier south of where I now am I have called Warren's tier of table-tops after my respected friend George Warren, Esquire, of Gawler for whose kindness I am much indebted; the plains or downs east and north of those ranges I have called The Downs of Plenty as here there is everything one could wish in travelling over a new country. I would have gone over to the distant ranges but unfortunately my horse threw one of her shoes and I was obliged to camp at a creek under the hills for the night. The creek I have now camped on I have named Ranger's Creek after our bullock killed here.

Monday, March 17.

Returned to camp; on my way out to the hills yesterday saw three natives, but they would not let me approach, they were busy collecting seeds from the different grasses; the beef seemingly drying well but will have to give it another day.

Tuesday, March 18.

In camp; will pack up the beef tonight and start in the morning. Afternoon packed the beef, it gave us 162 pounds of well-dried meat and I hope it may keep good.

Wednesday, March 19.

Started about 10.30 and went about fourteen miles; passed through some magnificent country, one fine plain alone extended for several miles and well grassed; in the distance could be seen high ranges. The weather magnificent and quite tropical, the perfume from the flowers is quite refreshing. Cut a tree with 13 MK (conjoined), 15 to 19-3-62. Distance travelled today fifteen miles. Camped on a creek, fine water.

Thursday, March 20.

Left the camp about 10 a.m. and travelled till we struck a large creek and went on over fine flats and sandhills covered with most luxuriant grass and several descriptions of creepers. The blue convolvulus was also seen today for the first time, also a most beautiful small blue flower with a dark purple eye. Plenty of pigeons today, some few nests were found on the march. The mosquitoes very bad at this camp. A native was brought into camp by Mr. Hodgkinson this evening and we decorated him with necklaces and gave him a feed. Distance travelled today fifteen miles.

Friday, March 21.

Marked a small bastard sandalwood tree this morning 11 MK (conjoined), 20-3-62. Our journey today was over nothing but red sandhills course about north-north-east; had to cross a large sheet of water. Eighty duck eggs were found today by the men. The country round about now is very fine indeed, grass as high as the horses' knees. We now every day find fresh shrubs and flowers, everything reminding one of the tropics. Bullocks and sheep not in tonight, mosquitoes bad here indeed. Last night was certainly the most infernal night I ever passed, never slept. The mosquitoes were fearful although fires were lighted all round us, each man having his private bonfire, yet the mosquitoes were not to be frightened, they would buzz and bite; rolled our heads up in our blankets and oilskins but in a second or two the little brutes were under and buzzing away. The air also seemed impregnated with the little tormentors. Camped on claypan with little and bad water. Bullocks not up nor sheep. Distance travelled about sixteen miles.

Saturday, March 22.

Bullocks did not come up last night so have had to send back today, consequently spelled. Thunder and a couple of showers in the afternoon at which time the bullocks arrived, having strayed far.

Sunday, March 23.

Claypan camp. At five and a quarter miles cleared sandhills bearing 17 degrees, flooded and stony flats with sand. At six and three-quarter miles crossed a box and myall creek. At seven and three-quarter miles to top of sandhill passed sandy bed of myall creek from hills. At ten and three-quarter miles crossed a box and myall creek, running north and west; plenty of water in creeks, and on both sides of course passing stony flats and undulations, well grassed. At thirteen and a half miles a white gum flat with not many stones and trees not large. At fifteen and a half miles over stony undulations well grassed to top of a myall creek followed it down west one mile to plenty of water and feed. Camped—sixteen and a half miles. At three miles and up to four and a half after starting flood close by on left.

Monday, March 24.

Camp 17. Bearing of 355 degrees. At three and three-quarter miles crossed a myall creek or flat—broad, with several dry channels from north-north-east, draining a tier of fine ranges on the east—the only ones now visible to north or east—which I have called Scott's ranges (the tops of which, especially the northern one, are well wooded) after John Scott, Esquire, of Adelaide, a gentleman to whom I am much indebted, in not only giving the use of two of his best horses for my use during the time the expedition would be absent, but in also kindly requesting me to call at his station in the North and take from it what I might consider of service to me. Over gentle slopes, some stony. Saw fifteen emu on one of the plains so have named the plain and undulations Emu Downs, to a box creek with abundance of water and feed at seventeen and a half miles. No timber except on the ranges and creeks. This appears a small creek to many that are in sight to north and west. A range continues to north-north-east. The creek from eastward to westward and southward joining other larger creeks a few miles west of this. The whole of the country passed over today is excellent pastoral country. From this camp the north-east termination of Scott's Ranges, ending in two detached round-looking hills, bears 113 1/2 degrees, about six to ten miles off.

Tuesday, March 25.

Started on bearing of 355 degrees. At two and a half miles crossed a box creek with plenty of water from north-east to west and south, sweeping considerably towards latter quarter. At fourteen and a half miles to box creek, dry where I struck it. Went on bearing of 238 degrees for two miles to a creek with plenty of water and camped. Sixteen and a half miles over beautifully grassed, very gently sloping and undulating country; rising ground seen to the west in the distance—flood must be some distance off. New hawk seen (light-coloured) this afternoon.

Wednesday, March 26.

Camp 19. Started on bearing of 315 degrees to get closer to course of main creek which I have observed nothing of for the last two days. Beautiful weather; heavy dews at night. At ten miles struck and crossed a box creek where it empties itself into a flat; passing over splendid country, the latter part in the small watercourse rather stony and sandy. A quarter of a mile further on is another box creek, and between it and the first creek is a perfectly boggy swamp full of water, as well as the creek, so have to change course to avoid some of it; bearing of 55 1/2 degrees, over plain for two miles; then bearing 7 1/2 degrees for four and a half miles, first part of it magnificent feed, the rest a morass—will have to clear out of this to the east for some distance to round it. Any traveller caught here in rainy weather such as has been lately deluging these vast plains would to a certainty be washed away—there is not a knoll six feet high within the range of the eye. Journey today about sixteen and a half miles from point to point, but I made it considerably more in trying to get across the swamp and being obliged to return. A small hill from top of a tree at camp beyond what appears the main creek in the distance bears 309 degrees; another small one is west and south of that—no other rising ground to speak of visible, except in the direction we came from and a little east of it.