Some familiar examples of hardy annuals are sweet alyssum, ageratum, calendula, calliopsis, candytuft, Centaurea Cyanus, clarkia, larkspur, gilia, California poppy, morning-glory, marigold, mignonette, nemophila, pansy, phlox, pinks, poppies, portulaca, zinnia, sweet pea, scabiosa.

Examples of half-hardy annuals are: China aster, alonsoa, balsam, petunia, ricinus, stocks, balloon-vine, martynia, salpiglossis, thunbergia, nasturtium, verbena.

Examples of tender annuals: Amarantus, celosia or coxcomb, cosmos, cotton, Lobelia Erinus, cobea, gourds, ice-plant, sensitive-plant, solanums, torenia, and such things as dahlias, caladiums, and acalypha used for bedding and subtropical effects.

Some annuals do not bear transplanting well; as poppies, bartonia, Venus' looking-glass, the dwarf convolvulus, lupinus, and malope. It is best, therefore, to sow them where they are to grow.

Some kinds (as poppies) do not bloom all summer, more especially not if allowed to produce seed. Of such kinds a second or third sowing at intervals will provide a succession. Preventing the formation of seeds prolongs their life and flowering period.

A few of the annuals thrive in partial shade or where they receive sunshine for half the day; but most of them prefer a sunny situation.

Any good garden soil is suitable for annuals. If not naturally fertile and friable, it should be made so by the application of well-rotted stable-manure or humus. The spading should be at least one foot deep. The upper six inches is then to be given a second turning to pulverize and mix it. After making the surface fine and smooth the soil should be pressed down with a board. The seed may now be sprinkled on the soil in lines or concentric circles, according to the method desired. After covering the seed, the soil should be again pressed down with a board. This promotes capillarity, by which the surface of the soil is better supplied with moisture from below. Always mark with a label the kind and position of all seed sown.

If the flowers are to be grown about the edges of the lawn, make sure that the grass roots do not run underneath them and rob them of food and moisture. It is well to run a sharp spade deep into the ground about the edges of the bed every two or three weeks for the purpose of cutting off any grass roots that may have run into the bed. If beds are made in the turf, see that they are 3 ft. or more wide, so that the grass roots will not undermine them. Against the shrub borders, this precaution may not be necessary. In fact, it is desirable that the flowers fill all the space between the overhanging branches and the sod.

It is surprising how few of the uncommon or little known annuals really have great merit for general purposes. There is nothing yet to take the place of the old-time groups, such as amaranths, zinnias, calendulas, daturas, balsams, annual pinks, candytufts, bachelor's buttons, wallflowers, larkspurs, petunias, gaillardias, snapdragons, coxcombs, lobelias, coreopsis or calliopsis, California poppies, four-o'clocks, sweet sultans, phloxes, mignonettes, scabiosas, nasturtiums, marigolds, China asters, salpiglossis, nicotianas, pansies, portulacas, castor beans, poppies, sunflowers, verbenas, stocks, alyssums, and such good old running plants as scarlet runners, sweet peas, convolvuluses, ipomeas, tall nasturtiums, balloon vines, cobeas. Of the annual vines of recent introduction, the Japanese hop has at once taken a prominent place for the covering of fences and arbors, although it has no floral beauty to recommend it.

For bold mass-displays of color in the rear parts of the grounds or along the borders, some of the coarser species are desirable. Good plants for such use are: sunflower and castor bean for the back rows; zinnias for bright effects in the scarlets and lilacs; African marigolds for brilliant yellows; nicotianas for whites. Unfortunately, we have no robust-growing annuals with good blues. Some of the larkspurs and the browallias are perhaps the nearest approach to them.

For lower-growing and less gross mass-displays, the following are good: California poppies for oranges and yellows; sweet sultans for purples, whites, and pale yellows; petunias for purples, violets, and whites; larkspurs for blues and violets; bachelor's buttons (or cornflowers) for blues; calliopsis and coreopsis and calendulas for yellows; gaillardias for red-yellows and orange-reds; China asters for many colors.

For still less robustness, good mass-displays can be made with the following: alyssums and candytufts for whites; phloxes for whites and various pinks and reds; lobelias and browallias for blues; pinks for whites and various shades of pink; stocks for whites and reds; wallflowers for brown-yellows; verbenas for many colors.

A garden of pleasant annual flowers is not complete that does not contain some of the "everlastings" or immortelles. These "paper flowers" are always interesting to children. They are not so desirable for the making of "dry bouquets" as for their value as a part of a garden. The colors are bright, the blooms hold long on the plant, and most of the kinds are very easy to grow. My favorite groups are the different kinds of xeranthemums and helichrysums. The globe amaranths, with clover-like heads (sometimes known as bachelor's buttons), are good old favorites. Rhodanthes and acrocliniums are also good and reliable.

The ornamental grasses should not be overlooked. They add a note to the flower-garden and to bouquets that is distinct and can be secured by no other plants. They are easily grown. Some of the good annual grasses are Agrostis nebulosa, the brizas, Bromus brizaeformis, the species of eragrostis and pennisetums, and Coix Lachryma as a curiosity. Such good lawn grasses as arundo, pampas-grass, eulalias, and erianthus are perennials and are therefore not included in this discussion.

Some of the most reliable and easily grown annuals are given in the following lists (under the common trade names).

List of annuals by color of flowers.

White Flowers

Ageratum Mexicanum album. Alyssum, common sweet; compacta. Centranthus macrosiphon albus. China asters. Convolvulus major. Dianthus, Double White Margaret. Iberis amara; coronaria, White Rocket. Ipomoea hederacea. Lavatera alba. Malope grandiflora alba. Matthiola (Stocks), Cut and Come Again; Dresden Perpetual; Giant Perfection; White Pearl. Mirabilis longiflora alba. Nigella. Phlox, Dwarf Snowball; Leopoldii. Poppies, Flag of Truce; Shirley; The Mikado. Zinnia.

Yellow and Orange Flowers

Cacalia lutea. Calendula officinalis, common; Meteor; sulphurea; suffruticosa. Calliopsis bicolor marmorata; cardaminefolia; elegans picta. Cosmidium Burridgeanum. Erysimum Perofskianum. Eschscholtzia Californica. Hibiscus Africanus; Golden Bowl. Ipomoea coccinea lutea. Loasa tricolor. Tagetes, various kinds. Thunbergia alata Fryeri; aurantiaca. Tropaeolum, Dwarf, Lady Bird; Tall, Schulzi. Zinnia.

Blue and Purple Flowers

Ageratum Mexicanum; Mexicanum, Dwarf. Asperula setosa azurea. Brachycome iberidifolia. Browallia Czerniakowski; elata. Centaurea Cyanus, Victoria Dwarf Compact; Cyanus minor. China asters of several varieties. Convolvulus minor; minor unicaulis. Gilia achilleaefolia; capitata. Iberis umbellata; umbellata lilacina. Kaulfussia amelloides; atroviolacea. Lobelia Erinus; Erinus, Elegant. Nigella. Phlox variabilis atropurpurea. Salvia farinacea. Specularia. Verbena, Black-blue; caerulea; Golden-leaved. Whitlavia gloxinioides.

Red and Rose-red Flowers

Abromia umbellata. Alonsoa grandiflora. Cacalia, Scarlet. Clarkia elegans rosea. Convolvulus tricolor roseus. Dianthus, Half Dwarf Early Margaret; Dwarf Perpetual; Chinensis. Gaillardia picta. Ipomoea coccinea; volubilis. Matthiola annuus; Blood-red Ten Weeks; grandiflora, Dwarf. Papaver (Poppy) cardinale; Mephisto. Phaseolus multiflorus. Phlox, Large-flowering Dwarf; Dwarf Fireball; Black Warrior. Salvia coccinea. Saponaria. Tropaeolum, Dwarf, Tom Thumb. Verbena hybrida, Scarlet Defiance. Zinnia.

Useful annuals for edgings of beds and, walks, and for ribbon-beds.

Ageraturn, blue and white. Alyssum, sweet. Brachycome. Calandrinia. Clarkia. Collinsias. Dianthuses or pinks. Gilia. Gypsophila muralis. Iberis or candytufts. Leptosiphons. Lobelia Erinus. Nemophilas. Nigellas. Portulaca or rose moss (Fig. 243). Saponaria Calabrica. Specularia. Torenia. Whitlavia.

Annuals that continue to bloom after frost.

This list is compiled from Bulletin 161, Cornell Experiment Station. Several hundred kinds of annuals were grown at this station (Ithaca, N.Y.) in 1897 and 1898. The notes are given in the original trade names under which the seedsmen supplied the stock.

Abronia umbellata. Adonis aestivalis; autumnale. Argemone grandiflora. Calendulas. Callirrhoe. Carduus benedictus. Centaurea Cyanus. Centauridium. Centranthus macro- Cerinthe retorta. {siphon. Cheiranthus Cheiri. Chrysanthemums. Convolvulus minor; tricolor. Dianthus of various kinds. Elsholtzia cristata. Erysimum Perofskianum; Arkansanum. Eschscholtzias, in several varieties (Fig. 249). Gaillardia picta. Gilia achilleaefolia; capitata; laciniata; tricolor. Iberis affinis. Lavatera alba. Matthiolas or stocks. oenothera rosea; Lamarckiana; Phlox Drummondii. {Drummondii. Podolepis affinis; chrysantha. Salvia coccinea; farinacea; Horminum. Verbenas. Vicia Gerardi. Virginian stocks. Viscaria elegans; oculata; Coeli-rosa.



List of annuals suitable for bedding (that is, for "mass effects" of color).

A list of this kind is necessarily both incomplete and imperfect, because good new varieties are frequently appearing, and the taste of the gardener must be consulted. Any plants may be used, broadly speaking, for bedding; but the following list (given in terms of trade names) suggests some of the best subjects to use when beds of solid, strong color are desired.

Adonis aestivalis; autumnalis. Ageratum Mexicanum; Mexicanum, Dwarf. Bartonia aurea. Cacalia. Calendula officinalis, in several forms; pluvialis; Pongei; sulphurea, fl. pl.; suffruticosa. Calliopsis bicolor marmorata; cardaminefolia; elegans picta. Callirrhoe involucrata; pedata; pedata nana. Centaurea Americana; Cyanus, Victoria Dwarf Compact; Cyanus minor; suaveolens. China asters. Chrysanthemum Burridgeanum; carinatum; coronarium; tricolor. Convolvulus minor; tricolor. Cosmidium Burridgeanum. Delphinium, single; double. Dianthus, Double White Half Dwarf Margaret; Dwarf Perpetual; Caryophyllus semperflorens; Chinensis, double; dentosus hybridus; Heddewigii; imperialis; laciniatus, Salmon Queen; plumarius; superbus, dwarf fl. pl.; picotee. Elsholtzia cristata. Eschscholtzia Californica; crocea; Mandarin; tenuifolia (Fig. 249). Gaillardia picta; picta Lorenziana. Gilia achilleaefolia; capitata; laciniata; linifolia; nivalis; tricolor. Godetia Whitneyi; grandiflora maculata; rubicunda splendens. Hibiscus Africanus; Golden Bowl. Iberis affinis; amara; coronaria; umbellata. Impatiens or balsam. Lavatera alba; trimestris. Linum grandiflorum. Madia elegans. Malope grandiflora. Matricaria eximia plena. Matthiola or stock, in many forms; Wallflower-leaved; bicornis. Nigella, or Love-in-a-mist. oenothera Drummondii; Lamarckiana; rosea tetraptera. Papaver or poppy, of many kinds; cardinale; glaucum; umbrosum. Petunia, bedding kinds. Phlox Drummondii, in many varieties. Portulaca (Fig. 243). Salvia farinacea; Horminum; splendens. Schizanthus papilionaceus; pinnatus. Silene Armeria; pendula. Tagetes, or marigold, in many forms; erecta; patula; signata. Tropaeolum, Dwarf. Verbena auriculaeflora; Italica striata; hybrida; caerulea; Golden-leaved. Viscaria Coeli-rosa; elegans picta; oculata. Zinnia, Dwarf; elegans alba; Tom Thumb; Haageana; coccinea plena (Fig. 247).



List of annuals by height.

It is obviously impossible to make any accurate or definite list of plants in terms of their height, but the beginner may be aided by approximate measurements. The following lists are made from Bulletin 161 of the Cornell Experiment Station, which gives tabular data on many annuals grown at Ithaca, N.Y. Seeds of most of the kinds were sown in the open, rather late. "The soil varied somewhat, but it was light and well tilled, and only moderately rich." Ordinary good care was given the plants. The average height of the plants of each kind at full growth, as they stood on the ground, is given in these lists. Of course, these heights might be less or more with different soils, different treatments, and different climates; but the figures are fairly comparable among themselves.

The measurements are based on the stock supplied by leading seedsmen under the trade names here given. It is not unlikely that some of the discrepancies were due to mixture of seed or to stock being untrue to type; some of it may have been due to soil conditions. The same name may be found in two divisions in some instances, the plants having been grown from different lots of seeds. The lists will indicate to the grower what variations he may expect in any large lot of seeds.

Seedsmen's catalogues should be consulted for what the trade considers to be the proper and normal heights for the different plants.

Plants 6-8 in. high

Abronia umbellata grandiflora. Alyssum compactum. Callirrhoe involucrata. Godetia, Bijou, Lady Albemarle, and Lady Satin Rose. Gypsophila muralis. Kaulfussia amelloides. Leptosiphon hybridus. Linaria Maroccana. Lobelia Erinus and Erinus Elegant. Nemophila atomaria, discoidalis, insignis, and maculata. Nolana lanceolata, paradoxa, prostrata, and atriplicifolia. Podolepis chrysantha and affinis. Portulaca. Rhodanthe Manglesii. Sedum caeruleum. Silene pendula ruberrima. Verbena.

Plants 9-12 in. high

Alyssum. Asperula setosa azurea. Brachycome iberidifolia. Calandrinia umbellata elegans. Callirrhoe pedata nana. Centaurea Cyanus Victoria Dwarf Compact. Centranthus macrosiphon nanus. Collinsia bicolor, candidissima and multicolor marmorata. Convolvulus minor and tricolor. Eschscholtzia crocea. Gamolepis Tagetes. Gilia laciniata and linifolia. Godetia Duchess of Albany, Prince of Wales, Fairy Queen, Brilliant, grandiflora maculata, Whitneyi, Duke of Fife, rubicunda splendens. Helipterum corymbiflorum. Iberis affinis. Kaulfussia amelloides atroviolacea, and a. kermesina. Leptosiphon androsaceus and densiflorus. Linaria bipartita splendida. Matthiola dwarf Forcing Snowflake, Wallflower-leaved. Mesembryanthemum crystallinum. Mimulus cupreus. Nemophila atomaria oculata and marginata. Nigella. Nolana atriplicifolia. Omphalodes linifolia. oenothera rosea and tetraptera. Phlox, Large-flowering Dwarf and Dwarf Snowball. Rhodanthe maculata. Saponaria Calabrica. Schizanthus pinnatus. Silene Armeria and pendula. Specularia. Viscaria oculata cserulea.

Plants 13-17 in. high

Abronia umbellata. Acroclinium album and roseum. Brachycome iberidifolia alba. Browallia Czerniakowski and elata. Cacalia. Calandrinia grandiflora. Calendula sulphurea flore pleno. Chrysanthemum carinatum. Collomia coccinea. Convolvulus minor and minor unicaulis. Dianthus, the Margaret varieties, Dwarf Perpetual, Caryophyllus semperflorens, Chinensis, dentosus hybridus, Heddewigii, imperialis, laciniatus, plumarius, superbus dwarf, picotee, Comtesse de Paris. Elsholtzia cristata. Eschscholtzia Californica, Mandarin, maritima and tenuifolia. Gaillardia picta. Gilia achillesefolia alba and nivalis. Helipterum Sanfordii. Hieracium, Bearded. Iberis amara, coronaria Empress, coronaria White Rocket, Sweet-scented, umbellata, umbellata carnea, and umbellata lilacina. Leptosiphon carmineus. Lupinus nanus, sulphureus. Malope grandiflora. Matthiola, Wallflower-leaved and Virginian stock. Mirabilis alba. Nigella. oenothera Lamarckiana. Palafoxia Hookeriana. Papaver, Shirley and glaucum. Petunia. Phlox of many kinds. Salvia Horminum. Schizanthus papilionaceus. Statice Thouini and superba. Tagetes, Pride of the Garden and Dwarf. Tropaeolum, many kinds of dwarf. Venidium calendulaceum. Verbena of several kinds. Viscaria Coeli-rosa, elegans picta, oculata, and oculata alba. Whitlavia gloxinioides.

Plants 18-23 in. high

Adonis aestivalis and autumnalis. Amarantus atropurpureus. Calendula officinalis, Meteor, suffruticosa, and pluvialis. Calliopsis bicolor marmorata. Callirrhoe pedata. Centaurea Cyanus minor Blue and suaveolens. Centranthus macrosiphon. Chrysanthemum Burridgeanum, carinatum, tricolor Dunnettii. Cosmidium Burridgeanum. Delphinium (annual). Eutoca Wrangeliana. Gaillardia picta (Fig. 245), Lorenziana. Gilia achilleaefolia, a. rosea and tricolor. Helichrysum atrosanguineum. Ipomoea coccinea. Linum grandiflorum. Loasa tricolor. Lupinus albus, hirsutus and pubescens. Malope grandiflora alba. Matricaria eximia plena. Matthiola, several kinds. oenothera Drummondii. Papaver Mephisto, cardinale, c. hybridum, c. Danebrog, umbrosum. Tagetes patula and signata. Vicia Gerardii. Whitlavia grandiflora and g. alba. Xeranthemum album and multiflorum album. Zinnias of many kinds (all not mentioned in other lists).

Plants 24-30 in. high

Bartonia aurea. Calendula officinalis fl. pl., Prince of Orange and Pongei. Calliopsis elegans picta. Cardiospermum Halicacabum. Carduus benedictus. Centaurea Cyanus minor Emperor William. Cheiranthus Cheiri. Chrysanthemum tricolor, t. hybridum and coronarium sulphureum fl. pl. Clarkia elegans rosea. Datura cornucopia. Erysimum Arkansanum and Perofskianum. Eutoca viscida. Gilia capitata alba. Helichrysum bracteatum and macranthum. Hibiscus Africanus. Impatiens, all varieties. Lupinus hirsutus pilosus. Matthiola Blood-red Ten Weeks, Cut and Come Again, grandiflora, annuus, and others. Mirabilis Jalapa folio variegata and longiflora alba. Papaver, American Flag, Mikado and Double. Perilla laciniata and Nankinensis. Salvia farinacea. Tagetes Eldorado, Nugget of Gold, erecta fl. pl. Xeranthemum annuum and superbissimum fl. pl. Zinnia elegans alba fl. pl.



Plants 31-40 in. high

Acroclinium, double rose and white. Adonis aestivalis. Ageratum Mexicanum album and blue. Amarantus bicolor ruber. Argemone grandiflora. Centaurea Americana. Centauridium Drummondii. Cerinthe retorta. {c. double yellow. Chrysanthemum coronarium album and Clarkia elegans alba fl. pl. Cleome spinosa. Cyclanthera pedata. Datura fastuosa and New Golden Euphorbia marginata. {Queen. Gilia capitata alba. Helianthus Dwarf double and cucu- Hibiscus Golden Bowl. {merifolius. Lavatera trimestris. Madia elegans. Martynia craniolaria. Salvia coccinea.

Plants 41 in. and above.

Adonis autumnalis. Helianthus of several garden kinds (not mentioned elsewhere). Ricinus, all varieties. And many climbing vines.

* * * * *

Distances for planting annuals (or plants treated as annuals).

Only an approximate idea can be given of the distances apart at which annuals should be planted, for not only does the distance depend on the fertility of the land (the stronger the soil the greater the distance), but also on the object the person has in growing the plants, whether to produce a solid mass effect or to secure strong specimen plants with large individual bloom. If specimen plants are to be raised, the distances should be liberal.

The distances here given for some of the commoner annuals may be considered to represent average or usual spaces that single plants may occupy under ordinary conditions in flowerbeds, although it would probably be impossible to find any two gardeners or seedsmen who would agree on the details. These are suggestions rather than recommendations. It is always well to set or sow more plants than are wanted, for there is danger of loss from cut-worms and other causes. The general tendency is to let the plants stand too close together at maturity. In case of doubt, place plants described in books and catalogues as very dwarf at six inches, those as medium-sized at twelve inches, very large growers at two feet, and thin them out if they seem to demand it as they grow.

The plants in these lists are thrown into four groups (rather than all placed together with the numbers after them) in order to classify the subject in the beginner's mind.



6 to 9 inches apart

Ageratum, very dwarf kinds. Alyssum. Asperula setosa. Cacalia. Candytuft. Clarkia, dwarf. Collinsia. Gysophila muralis. Kaulfussia. Larkspur, dwarf kinds. Linaria. Linum grandiflorum Lobelia Erinus. Mignonette, dwarf kinds. Pansy. Phlox, very dwarf kinds. Pinks, very dwarf kinds. Rhodanthe. Schizopetalon. Silene Armeria. Snapdragon, dwarf. Sweet pea. Torenia.



* * * * *

10 to 15 inches apart

Those marked (ft.) are examples of plants that may usually stand at twelve inches.



Abronia (ft.). Acroclinium. Adlumia. Adonis autumnalis. Ageratum, tall kinds. Alonsoa. Aster, China, smaller kinds (ft.). Balsam. Bartonia. Browallia. Calendula. California poppy (Eschscholtzia). Calliopsis. Cardiospermum. Carnation, flower-garden kinds (ft.). Celosia, small kinds. Centaurea Cyanus. Centauridium (ft.). Centranthus (ft.). Clarkia, tall (ft.). Convolvulus tricolor (ft.). Gaillardia, except on strong land. Gilias. Glaucium. Godetia (ft.). Gomphrena. Gypsophila elegans. Helichrysum (ft.). Hunnemannia. Jacobaea. {kinds. Larkspur, tall annual Malope. {varieties. Marigold, intermediate Mignonette, tall kinds. Mesembryanthemum (ice-plant) (ft.). Morning-glory. Nasturtium, dwarf. Nemophila. Nigella. Petunia. Phlox Drummondii. Pinks. Poppies (6 to 18 in., according to variety). Portulaca (ft.). Salpiglossis (ft.). Scabiosa (ft.). Schizanthus. Snapdragon, tall kinds. Statice (ft.). Stock (ft.). Tagetes, dwarf French. Thunbergia (ft.). Verbena. Whitlavia (ft.), {(ft.). Zinnia, very dwarf kinds



18 to 24 inches

Amarantus. Ammobium. Argemone. Aster, China, the big kinds (or rows 2 ft. apart and plants 1 ft. in row). Callirrhoe. Canterbury bell (up to 3 ft.). Celosia, large kinds (up to 30 in.). Chrysanthemum, annual. Cosmos, smaller kinds. Euphorbia marginata. Four o'clock (up to 30 in.) Hop, Japanese. (to 30 in.) Kochia, or summer cypress Marigold, tall kinds. Nasturtium, tall, if allowed to spread on the ground. Nicotiana (up to 30 in.). oenothera, tall kinds. Salvia coccinea (splendens grandiflora), about 2 ft. Zinnia, tall kinds (up to 3 ft).



About 3 feet or more

Caladium. Cosmos, tall kinds (2 to 3 ft.). Dahlia. Datura. Martynia. Ricinus or castor bean. Solanums. Sunflower, tall kinds. Wigandia.

3. HARDY HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS

There is a rapidly growing appreciation of perennial herbs, not only as flower-garden and lawn subjects, but as parts of native landscapes. Every locality yields its wild asters, golden-rods, columbines, iris, trilliums, lilies, anemones, pentstemons, mints, sunflowers, or other plants; and many of these also make good subjects for the home grounds.

It is important to remember that some perennial herbs begin to fail after one to three seasons of full bloom. It is a good plan to have new plants coming on to take their place; or the old roots may be taken up in the fall and divided, only the fresh and strong parts being planted again.

Perennial herbs are propagated in various ways,—by seeds, and by cuttings of the stems and roots, but mostly by the easy method of division. On the raising of these plants from seeds, William Falconer writes as follows in Dreer's "Garden Book" for 1909:—

"Hardy perennials are easily grown from seed. In many cases they are a little slower than annuals, but with intelligent care they are successfully raised, and from seed is an excellent way to get up a big stock of perennials. Many sorts, if sown in spring, bloom the first year from seeds as early as annuals; for instance: gaillardia, Iceland poppies, Chinese larkspur, platycodon, etc. Others do not bloom until the second year.

"The amateur may have more success and less bother growing perennials from seed sown in the open ground than from any other way. Prepare a bed in a nice, warm, sheltered spot in the garden, preferably not very sunny. Let the surface of the bed be raised four or five inches above the general level, and the soil be a mellow fine earth on the surface. Draw shallow rows across the surface of the bed three or four inches apart, and here sow the seeds, keeping the varieties of one kind or nature as much together as practicable, covering the seeds thinly; press the whole surface gently, water moderately, then dust a little fine loose soil over all. If the weather is sunny or windy, shade with papers or a few branches, but remove these in the evening. When the seedlings come up, thin them out to stiffen those that are left, and when they are two or three inches high, they are fit for transplanting into permanent quarters. All this should be done in early spring, say March, April, or May. Again, in July or August perennials are very easily raised out of doors, and much in the same way as above. Or they may be sown in early spring indoors, in the window, the hotbed, the coldframe, or the greenhouse, preferably in boxes or pans, as for growing annuals. Some gardeners sow seed right in the coldframe. I have tried both ways, and find the boxes best, as the different varieties of seeds do not come up at the same time, and you can remove them from the close frame to more airy quarters as soon as the seed comes up, whereas, if sown in a frame, you would have to give them all the same treatment. When the seedlings are large enough, I transplant them into other boxes, and put them into a shady part of the garden, but not under the shade of trees, as there they will 'draw' too much. About the fifteenth of September plant them in the garden where they are to bloom, or if the garden is full of summer-flowering plants, put them in beds in the vegetable garden, to be planted out in the early spring, and give them a light covering of straw or manure to keep sudden changes of the weather away from them."

Hardy perennial herbs may be planted in September and October with excellent results; also in spring. See that they are protected with mulch in winter.

Perennial herbs suitable for lawn and "planting" effects.

Some of the striking plants that are valuable for lawn planting in the North, chosen chiefly on account of their size, foliage, and habit, are mentioned in the following brief list. They may or may not be suitable for flower-gardens. It is impossible to give to this list any degree of completeness; but the names here printed will be suggestive of the kinds of things that may be used. The asterisk (A) denotes native plants.

Yucca, Yucca filamentosa.(A)

Funkia, Funkia, of several species.

Peltate saxifrage, Saxifraga peltata.(A)

Rose mallow, Hibiscus Moscheutos.(A)

Elecampane, Inula Helenium (Fig. 251).

Wild sunflowers, Helianthus(A) of different species, especially H. orygalis, H. giganteus, H. grosse-serratus, H. strumosus.



Compass-plants, Silphium(A) of several species, especially S. terebinthinaceum, S. laciniatum, S. perfoliatum.

Sacaline, Polygonum Sachalinense.

Japanese knotweed, Polygonum cuspidatum.

Bocconia, Bocconia cordata.

Wild wormwood, Artemisia Stelleriana(A) and others.

Butterfly-weed, Asclepias tuberosa.(A)

Wild asters, Aster(A) of many species, especially A. Novae-Anglae (best), A. laevis, A. multiflorus, A. spectabilis.

Golden-rods, Solidago(A) of various species, especially S. speciosa, S. nemoralis, S. juncea, S. gigantea.

Loose-strife, Lythrum Salicaria.

Flags, Iris of many species, some native.

Japanese wind-flower, Anemone Japonica.

Goat's beard, Aruncus sylvester (Spiraea Aruncus).(A)

Baptisia, Baptisia tinctoria.(A)

Thermopsis, Thermopsis mollis.(A)

Wild senna, Cassia Marilandica.(A)

Wild trefoil, Desmodium Canadense(A) and others.

Ribbon grass, Phalaris arundinacea(A) var. picta.

Zebra grass, Eulalia (or Miscanthus) species, and varieties.

Wild panic grass, Panicum virgatum.(A)

Bambusas (and related things) of several sorts.

Ravenna grass, Erianthus Ravennae.

Arundo, Arundo Donax, and var. variegata.

Reed, Phragmites communis.(A)

This and the remaining plants of the list should be planted in the edges of water or in bogs (the list might be greatly extended).

Wild rice, Zizania aquatica.(A)

Cat-tail, Typha angustifolia(A) and T. latifolia.(A)

Lizard's-tail, Saururus cernuus.(A)

Peltandra, Peltandra undulata.(A)

Orontium, Orontium aquaticum.(A)

Native calla, Calla palustris.(A)

A brief seasonal flower-garden or border list of herbaceous perennials.

To facilitate making a selection of perennial herbs for bloom, the plants in the following list are arranged according to their flowering season, beginning with the earliest. The name of the month indicates when they usually begin to bloom. It should be understood that the blooming season of plants is not a fixed period, but varies more or less with localities and seasons. These dates are applicable to most of the middle and northern states. Natives to North America are marked with an asterisk (A). This list is by Ernest Walker.

MARCH

Blue Wind-flower, Anemone blanda. 6 in. March-May. Sky-blue, star-like flowers. Foliage deeply cut. For border and rockwork.

Bloodroot, Sanguinaria Canadensis.(A) 6 in. March-April. Pure white. Glaucous foliage. Partial shade. Border or rock-work.

APRIL

Mountain Rock-cress, Arabis albida. 6 in. April-June. Flowers pure white; close heads in profusion. Fragrant. For dry places and rock-work.

Purple Rock-cress, Aubrietia deltoidea. 6 in. April-June. Small purple flowers in great profusion.

Daisy, Bellis perennis, 4-6 in. April-July. Flowers white, pink, or red; single or double. The double varieties are the more desirable. Cover the plants in winter with leaves. May be raised from seed, like pansies.

Spring Beauty, Claytonia Virginica.(A) 6 in. April-May. Clusters of light pink flowers. Partial shade. From six to a dozen should be set together.

Shooting Star, Dodecatheon Meadia.(A) 1 ft. April-May. Reddish purple flowers, orange-yellow eye, in clusters. Cool, shady location. Plant several in a place.

Dog's-bane, Doronicum plantagineum var. excelsum. 20 in. April-June. Large, showy flowers; orange-yellow. Bushy plants.

Liver-leaf, Hepatica acutiloba(A) and triloba.(A) 6 in. April-May. Flowers small but numerous, varying white and pink. Partial shade.

Hardy Candytuft, Iberis sempervirens. 10 in. April-May. Small white flowers in clusters; profuse. Large, spreading, evergreen tufts.

Alpine Lamp-flower, Lychnis alpina.(A) 6 in. April-May. Flowers star-like, in showy heads; pink. For border and rockery.

Early Forget-me-not, Myosotis dissitiflora. 6 in. April-June. Small clusters of deep sky-blue flowers. Tufted habit.



Everblooming F., M. palustris var. semperflorens. 10 in. Light blue; spreading habit.

Blue-bells, Mertensia Virginica.(A) 1 ft. April-May. Flowers blue, changing to pink; pendent; tubular; not showy, but beautiful. Rich soil. Partial shade.

Tree Peony, Paeonia Moutan. (See May, Paeonia.)

Moss Pink, Phlox subulata.(A) 6 in. April-June. Numerous deep pink, small flowers; creeping habit; evergreen. Suitable for dry places as a covering plant.

Trilliums.(A) Of several species; always attractive and useful in the border (Fig. 252). They are common in rich woods and copses. Dig the tubers in late summer and plant them directly in the border. The large ones will bloom the following spring. The same may be said of the erythronium, or dog's-tooth violet or adder's tongue, and of very many other early wild flowers.

MAY

Ajuga reptans. 6 in. May-June. Spikes of purple flowers. Grows well in shady places; spreading. A good cover plant.

Madwort, Alyssum saxatile var. compactum. 1 ft. May-June. Flowers fragrant, in clusters, clear golden-yellow. Foliage silvery. Well-drained soil. One of the best yellow flowers.

Columbine, Aquilegia glandulosa and others (Fig. 253). 1 ft. May-June. Deep blue sepals; white petals. Aquilegias are old favorites. (See June.) The wild A. Canadensis(A) is desirable.

Lily-of-the-Valley, Convallaria majalis.(A) 8 in. May-June. Racemes of small white bells; fragrant. Well known. Partial shade. (See Chap. VIII.)

Fumitory, Corydalis nobilis. 1 ft. May-June. Large clusters of fine yellow flowers. Bushy, upright habit. Does well in partial shade.

Bleeding-Heart, Dicentra spectabilis. 2-1/2 ft. May-June. Well known. Racemes of heart-shaped, deep pink and white flowers. Will bear partial shade.

Crested Iris, Iris cristata.(A) 6 in. May-June. Flowers blue, fringed with yellow. Leaves sword-shaped.

German Iris, I. Germanica. 12-15 in. May-June. Numerous varieties and colors. Large flowers, 3-4 on a stem. Broad, glaucous, sword-shaped leaves.

Peony, Paeonia officinalis. 2 ft. May-June. This is the well-known herbaceous peony. There are numerous varieties and hybrids.



Large flowers, 4-6 in. across. Crimson, white, pink, yellowish, etc. Suitable for lawn or the border. Fig. 250.

Tree Peony, P. Moutan. 4ft. April-May. Numerous named varieties. Flowers as above, excepting yellow. Branched, dense, shrubby habit.

Meadow Sage, Salvia pratensis. 2-1/2 ft. May-June, August. Spikes of deep blue flowers. Branching from the ground.

JUNE

Achillea Ptarmica, fl. pl., var. "The Pearl." 1/2 ft. June-August. Small double white flowers, in few-flowered clusters. Rich soil.

Wind-flower, Anemone Pennsylvanica.(A) 18 in. June-September. White flowers on long stems. Erect habit. Does well in the shade.

St. Bruno's Lily, Paradisea Liliastrum. 18 in. June-July. Bell-like, white flowers in handsome spikes.

Golden-spurred Columbine, Aquilegia chrysantha.(A) 3 ft. June-August. Golden flowers with slender spurs; fragrant.

Rocky Mountain Columbine, A. coerulea.(A) 1 ft. June-August. Flowers with white petals and deep blue sepals, 2-3 in. in diameter. (See May.)

Woodruff, Asperula odorata. 6 in. June-July. Small white flowers. Herbage fragrant when wilted. Does well in shade; spreading habit. Used for flavoring drinks, scenting and protecting garments.

Astilbe Japonica (incorrectly called Spiraea). 2 ft. June-July. Small white flowers in a feathery inflorescence. Compact habit.

Poppy Mallow, Callirrhoe involucrata.(A) 10 in. June-October. Large crimson flowers, with white centers. Trailing habit. For border and rockery.

Carpathian Harebell, Campanula Carpatica (Fig. 254). 8 in. June-September. Flowers deep blue. Tufted habit. For border or rockery. Good for cutting.

C. glomerata var. Dahurica. 2 ft. June-August. Deep purple flowers in terminal clusters. Branching from the ground. Erect habit.

Canterbury Bell, C. Medium. An old favorite. It is biennial, but blooms the first season if sown early.

Corydalis lutea. 1 ft. June-September. Flowers yellow, in terminal clusters. Loose branching habit. Glaucous foliage.

Scotch Pink, Dianthus plumarius. 10 in. June-July. White and pink-ringed flowers on slender stems. Densely tufted habit.

Fringed Pink, D. superbus. 18 in. July-August. Fringed flowers. Lilac tint.

Gas Plant, Dictamnus Fraxinella. 3 ft. June. Flowers purple, showy, fragrant; in long spikes. Regular habit. Var. alba. White.

Gaillardia aristata.(A) 2 ft. June-October. Showy orange and maroon flowers on long stems. Good for cutting. Hybrid gaillardias offer quite a variety of brilliant colors.

Heuchera sanguinea.(A) 18 in. June-September. Flowers in open panicles, scarlet, on clustered stems from a tufted mass of pretty foliage.

Japan Iris, Iris laevigata (I. Kaempferi). 2-3 ft. June-July. Large flowers of various colors, in variety. Green, sword-like leaves. Dense tufted habit. Prefers a moist situation.



Blazing Star, Liatris spicata.(A) 2 ft. June-August. Spikes of fine, small purple flowers. Slender foliage. Unbranched, erect stems. Will grow in the poorest soil.

Iceland Poppy, Papaver nudicaule.(A) 1 ft. June-October. Bright yellow flowers. A close, dense habit. Erect, naked stems. The varieties Album, white, and Miniatum, deep orange, are also desirable.

Oriental Poppy, P. orientale. 2-4 ft. June. Flowers 6-8 in. across; deep scarlet, with a purple spot at the base of each petal. There are other varieties of pink, orange, and crimson shades.

Pentstemon barbatus var. Torreyi.(A) 3-4 ft. June-September. Crimson flowers in long spikes. Branching from the base. Erect habit.



Perennial Phlox, Phlox paniculata(A) and hybrids with P. maculata.(A) 2-3 ft. June. A great variety of colors in selfs and variegated forms. Flowers borne in large, flat panicles. (Figs. 246, 248.)

Rudbeckia maxima(A) 5-6 ft. August. Large flowers; cone-like center and long, drooping, yellow petals.

Dropwort, Ulmaria Filipendula. 3 ft. June-July. White flowers in compact clusters. Tufted foliage, dark green and handsomely cut. Erect stems. (Often referred to Spiraea.)

Adam's Needle, Yucca filamentosa.(A) 4-5 ft. June-July. Waxen white, pendulous, liliaceous flowers in a great thyrsus. Leaves long, narrow, dark green, with marginal filaments. For the lawn, and for massing in large grounds.

JULY

Hollyhock, Althaea rosea. 5-8 ft. Summer and fall. Flowers white, crimson, and yellow, lavender and purple. Stately plants of spire-like habit; useful for the back of the border, or beds and groups. The newer double varieties have flowers as fine as a camellia. The plant is nearly biennial, but in rich, well-drained soil and with winter protection it becomes perennial. Easily grown from seed, blooming the second year. Seeds may be sown in August in frames and carried over winter in the same place. The first year's bloom is usually the best.

Yellow Chamomile, Anthemis tinctoria. 12-38 in. July-November. Flowers bright yellow, 1-2 in. in diameter. Useful for cutting. Dense, bushy habit.

Delphinium Chinense. 3 ft. July-September. Variable colors; from deep blue to lavender and white. Fine for the border.

D. formosum. 4 ft. July-September. Fine spikes of rich blue flowers. One of the finest blue flowers cultivated.

Funkia lancifolia. (See under August.)

Helianthus multiflorus(A) var. fl. pl. 4 ft. July-September. Large double flowers, of a fine golden color. Erect habit. An excellent flower.

Lychnis Viscaria var. flore pleno. 12-15 in. July-August. Double, deep rose-red flowers in spikes. For groups and masses.

Monarda didyma.(A) 2 ft. July-October. Showy scarlet flowers in terminal heads.

Pentstemon grandiflorus.(A) 2 ft. July-August. Leafy spikes of showy purple flowers.

P. loevigalus var. Digitalis.(A) 3 ft. July-August. Pure white flowers in spikes, with purple throats.

Platycodon grandiflorum (Campanula grandiflora). 3 ft. July-September. Deep blue, bell-shaped flowers. Dense, fine, erect habit.

P. Mariesi. 1 ft. July-September. Flowers larger; deep violet-blue. Heavier foliage.

AUGUST

Day Lily, Funkia subcordata. 18 in. August-October. Trumpet, lily-like, pure-white flowers in clusters, borne upon a stalk from the midst of a group of heart-shaped green leaves.

F. lancifolia var. albo-marginata. July-August. Lavender flowers. Lance-like leaves margined with white.

Flame Flower, Kniphofia aloides (Tritoma Uvaria). 3 ft. August-September. Bright orange-scarlet flowers, in close, dense spikes, at the summit of several scape-like stems. Leaves slender, forming a large tuft. For lawn and borders. Hardy only when covered with litter or straw in winter.

Cardinal Flower, Lobelia cardinalis.(A) 2-1/4-4 ft. August-September. Flowers intense cardinal-red, of unrivaled brilliancy. Tall spikes. Stems clustered; erect.

Giant Daisy, Chrysanthemum (or Pyrethrum) uliginosum. 3-5 ft. July-October. Flowers white, with golden centers. About 2 in. across. A stout, upright, bushy plant. Useful for cutting.

Golden Glow, Rudbeckia laciniata.(A) 6-7 ft. August-September. Large double golden-yellow flowers in great profusion. Bushy habit. Cut off when done flowering. Leaves appear at the base and a new crop of flowers, on stems about 1 ft. high, appear in October.

Goldenrod, Solidago rigida.(A) 3-5 ft. August-October. Flowers large for this genus, in close, short racemes in a corymbose-paniculate cluster. Fine, deep yellow. Erect habit. One of the best of the goldenrods.

SEPTEMBER

Japanese Wind-flower, Anemone Japonica. 2 ft. August-October. Flowers large, bright red. One of the best autumn flowers.

A. Japonica var. alba. Flowers pure white, with yellow centers. Fine for cutting.

OCTOBER

Hardy Chrysanthemums. The Chinese and Japanese Chrysanthemums, so well known, are hardy in light, well-drained soils, if well protected with litter or leaves during the winter, and in such situations will stand without protection south of Indianapolis. Chrysanthemums are gross feeders, and should have a rich soil.

But there is a race of hardier or border chrysanthemums that is again coming into favor, and it is sure to give much satisfaction to those who desire flowers in latest fall. These chrysanthemums are much like the "artemisias" of our mother's gardens, although improved in size, form, and in range of color.

One hundred extra-hardy perennial herbs.

The following list of 100 "best hardy perennials" is adapted from a report of the Central Experimental Farm, Ottawa, Ontario. These plants are chosen from over 1000 species and varieties that have been on trial at that place. Those considered to be the best twenty-five for Canada are marked by a dagger (D); and those native to North America by an asterisk (A).

Achillea Ptarmica flore pleno.—Height, 1 foot; in bloom fourth week of June; flowers, small, pure white, double, and borne in clusters; blooming freely throughout the summer. (D)

Aconitum autumnale.—Height, 3 to 4 feet; September; flowers, bluish purple, borne in loose panicles.

Aconitum Napellus.—Height, 3 to 4 feet; July; flowers, deep blue, borne on a large terminal spike; desirable for the rear of the border.

Adonis vernalis.—Height, 6 to 9 inches; first week of May; flowers, large, lemon-yellow, borne singly from the ends of the stems.

Agrostemma (Lychnis) Coronaria var. atropurpurea.—Height, 1 to 2 feet; fourth week of June; flowers, medium size, bright crimson, borne singly from the sides and ends of the stems; a very showy plant with silvery foliage, and continues to bloom throughout the summer.

Anemone patens.(A)—Height 6 to 9 inches; fourth week of April; flowers, large, and deep purple.

Anthemis tinctoria var. Kelwayi.—Height, 1 to 2 feet; fourth week of June; flowers, large, deep yellow, borne singly on long stems; it continues to bloom profusely throughout the summer; is very showy and valuable for cutting. (D)

Aquilegia Canadensis.(A)—Height, 1 to 1-1/2 feet; third week of May; flowers, medium size, red and yellow.

Aquilegia chrysantha.(A)—Height, 3 to 4 feet; fourth week of June; flowers, large, bright lemon-yellow, with long slender spurs; much later than other columbines. (D)

Aquilegia coerulea.(A)—Height, 1 to 1-1/2 feet; fourth week of May; flowers, large, deep blue with white center and long spurs. (D)

Aquilegia glandulosa.—Height, 1 foot; third week of May; flowers, large, deep blue with white center and short spurs.

Aquilegia oxysepala.—Height, 1 foot; second week in May; flowers, large, deep purplish blue with blue and yellow centers; a very desirable early species.

Aquilegia Stuarti.—Height 9 to 12 inches; third week of May; flowers, large, deep blue with white center; one of the best.

Arabis alpina.—Height, 6 inches; first week in May; flowers, small, pure white, in clusters.

Arnebia echioides.—Height, 9 inches; third week of May; flowers, yellow, borne in clusters with petals spotted with purple. One of the most charming of early flowering plants.

Asclepias tuberosa.(A)—Height, 1-1/2 to 2 feet; third week of July. Flowers, bright orange, borne in clusters. Very showy.

Aster alpinus.(A)—Height, 9 inches; first week of June; flowers, large, bright purple, borne on long stems from the base of the plant; the earliest flowering of all the asters.

Aster Amellus var. Bessarabicus.—Height, 1 to 1-1/2 feet; July to September; flowers, large, deep purple, singly on long stems; very fine. (D)

Aster Novae-Anglae var. roseus.(A)—Height, 5 to 7 feet; fourth week of August; flowers, bright pink, borne profusely in large terminal clusters; very showy.

Boltonia asteroides(A)—Height, 4 to 5 feet; September; flowers, smaller than the next, pale pink, borne very profusely in large panicles; much later than the next species.

Boltonia latisquama(A)—Height, 4 feet; first week of August; flowers, large, white, somewhat resembling asters, and borne very profusely in large panicles.

Campanula Carpatica.—Height, 6 to 9 inches; first week of July; flowers, medium size, deep blue, borne profusely in loose panicles; continues in bloom throughout the summer. A white variety of this is also good.

Campanula Grossekii.—Height, 3 feet; first week of July; flowers, large, deep blue, borne on a long spike.

Campanula persicifolia.—Height, 3 feet; flowers, large, blue, borne in a raceme with long flower stems. There are also white and double varieties which are good.

Clematis recta.—Height, 4 feet; fourth week of June; flowers, small, pure white, borne profusely in dense clusters. This is a very compact bushy species and desirable for the rear of the border. Clematis Jackmani with large deep purple flowers and Clematis Vitalba with small white flowers, are excellent climbing sorts.

Convallaria majalis(A) (Lily-of-the-valley).—Height, 6 to 9 inches; latter part of May.

Coreopsis delphiniflora.(A)—Height, 2 to 3 feet; first week of July; flowers, large, yellow, with dark centers and borne singly with long stems.

Coreopsis grandiflora.(A)—Height, 2 to 3 feet; fourth week of June; flowers, large, deep yellow, borne singly on long stems, blooming profusely throughout the summer.

Coreopsis lanceolata.(A)—Height, 2 feet; fourth week of June; flowers large though slightly smaller than the last, and borne on long stems, blooming throughout the season.(D)

Delphinium Cashmerianum.—Height, 1-1/2 feet; first week of July; flowers, pale to bright blue, in large open heads.(D)

Dianthus plumarius flore pleno.—Height, 9 inches; second week of June; flowers, large, white or pink, very sweet scented; and two or three borne on a stem. A variety called Mrs. Simkins is especially desirable, being very double, white and deliciously perfumed, almost equaling a carnation. It blooms the fourth week of June.

Dicentra spectabilis (Bleeding Heart).—Height, 3 feet; second week of May; flowers, heart-shaped, red and white in pendulous racemes.

Dictamnus albus.—Height, 1-1/2 to 2 feet; second week of June; flowers, white with an aromatic fragrance, and borne in large terminal racemes. A well-known variety has purple flowers with darker markings.

Doronicum Caucasicum.—Height, 1 foot; second week of May; flowers, large, yellow, and borne singly.

Doronicum plantagineum var. excelsum.—Height, 2 feet; third week of May; flowers, large and deep yellow.(D)

Epimedium rubrum.—Height, 1 foot; second week of May; flowers, small, bright crimson and white, borne in a loose panicle. A very dainty and beautiful little plant.

Erigeron speciosus.(A)—Height, 1-1/2 feet; second week of July; flowers, large, violet-blue, with yellow centers, and borne in large clusters on long stems.

Funkia subcordata (grandiflora).—Height, 1-1/2 feet; August; flowers, large and white, borne in racemes. The best funkia grown at Ottawa; both leaves and flowers are handsome.

Gaillardia aristata var. grandiflora.(A)—Height, 1 1/2 feet; third week of June; flowers, large, yellow, with deep orange centers, and borne singly on long stems. The named varieties, Superba and Perfection, are more highly colored and are of great merit. These all continue blooming profusely until late in the autumn.(D)

Gypsophila paniculata (Infant's breath).—Height, 2 feet; second week of July; flowers, small, white, borne profusely in large open panicles.

Helenium autumnale(A)—Height, 6 to 7 feet; second week of July; flowers, large, deep yellow, borne in large heads; very ornamental in late summer.

Helianthus doronicoides.(A)—Height, 6 to 7 feet; second week of August; flowers, large, bright yellow, and borne singly; continues blooming for several weeks.

Helianthus multiflorus.(A)—Height, 4 feet; flowers, large, double, bright yellow, and borne singly; a very striking late-flowering perennial.

Heuchera sanguinea(A)—Height, 1 to 1-1/2 feet; first week of June; flowers, small, bright, scarlet, borne in open panicles; continues blooming throughout the summer.

Hemerocallis Dumortierii.—Height, 1-1/2 feet; second week of June; flowers, large, orange-yellow, with a brownish tinge on the outside, and three or four on a stem.(D)

Hemerocallis flava.—Height, 2 to 3 feet; latter part of June; flowers, bright orange-yellow and fragrant.(D)

Hemerocallis minor.—Height, 1 to 1-1/2 feet; second week of July; flowers, medium size and yellow; blooms later than the two preceding species and has a smaller flower and narrower foliage.

Hibiscus Moscheutos.(A)—Height, 5 feet; third week of August; flowers, very large, varying in color from white to deep pink. A variety called "Crimson Eye" is very good. This plant makes a fine show in late summer.

Hypericum Ascyron (or pyramidatum).(A)—Height, 3 feet; fourth week of July; flowers, large, yellow, and borne singly.

Iberis sempervirens.—Height, 6 to 12 inches; third week of May; flowers, pure white, fragrant, and borne in dense flat clusters.(D)

Iris Chamoeiris.—Height, 6 inches; fourth week of May; flowers, bright yellow with brown markings.

Iris flavescens.—Height, 1-1/2 to 2 feet; first week of June; flowers, lemon-yellow with brown markings.

Iris Florentina.—Height, 2 feet; first week of June; flowers, very large, pale blue or lavender, sweet scented.(D)

Iris Germanica.—Height, 2 to 3 feet; first week of June; flowers, very large, of elegant form; color, deep lilac and bright purple, sweet scented. There is a large number of choice varieties of this iris.(D)

Iris loevigata (Koempferi).—Height, 1-1/2 to 2 feet; first week of July; flowers, purple and modified colors, very large and distinct in color and shape.(D)

Iris pumila.—Height, 4 to 6 inches; third week of May; flowers, deep purple. There are several varieties.

Iris Sibirica.—Height, 3 to 4 feet; fourth week of May; flowers, deep blue, borne on long stems in clusters of two or three. This species has many varieties.

Iris variegata.—Height, 1 to 1 1/2 feet; first week of June; flowers, yellow and brown, veined with various shades of brown.

Lilium auratum.—Height, 3 to 5 feet; July; flowers, very large, white, with a yellow central band on each petal, and thickly spotted with purple and red. The most showy of all lilies and a splendid flower. This has proved hardy at the Central Experimental Farm, although it has been reported tender in some localities.(D)

Lilium Canadense.(A)—Height, 2 to 3 feet; latter part of May; flowers, yellow to pale red with reddish spots, pendulous.

Lilium elegans.—Height, 6 inches; first week of July; flowers, pale red; several varieties are better than the type.

Lilium speciosum.—Height, 2 to 3 feet; July; flowers, large, white, tinged and spotted with deep pink and red. Hardier than Lilium auratum and almost as fine. There are several fine varieties.(D)

Lilium superbum.(A)—Height, 4 to 6 feet; first week of July; flowers, very numerous, orange red, thickly spotted with dark brown. An admirable lily for the rear of the border. (D)

Lilium tenuifolium.—Height, 1 1/2 to 2 feet; third week of June; flowers, pendulous and bright scarlet. One of the most graceful of all lilies.

Lilium tigrinum.—Height, 2 to 4 feet; flowers, large, deep orange, spotted thickly with purplish black.

Linum perenne.—Height, 1 1/2 feet; first week of June; flowers, large deep blue, borne in loose panicles, continuing throughout the summer.

Lobelia cardinalis.(A)—Height, 2 to 3 feet; August; flowers, bright scarlet, borne in terminal racemes; very showy.

Lychnis Chalcedonica flore pleno.—Height, 2 to 3 feet; first week of July; flowers, bright crimson, double, and borne in terminal racemes.

Lysimachia clethroides.—Height, 3 feet; fourth week of July; flowers, white, borne in long spikes. A very striking late-flowering perennial.

Myosotis alpestris.—Height, 6 inches; third week of May; flowers, small, bright blue with a yellowish eye. A very profuse bloomer.

OEnothera Missouriensis.(A)—Height, 1 foot; fourth week of June; flowers, very large, rich yellow, and borne singly, throughout the summer.

Poeonia officinalis.—Height, 2 to 4 feet; early part of July. The double-flowered varieties are the best, and can be obtained in several colors and shades, (D)

Papaver nudicaule(A)—Height, 1 foot; second week of May; flowers, medium size, orange, white, or yellow, almost continuously until late autumn. (D)

Papaver orientale.—Height, 2 to 3 feet; first week of June; flowers, very large, scarlet, and variously marked, according to variety, there being many forms.

Pentstemon barbatus var. Torreyi.(A)—Height, 2 to 3 feet; first week of July; flowers, deep red, borne in long spikes, very ornamental.

Phlox amoena.(A)—Height, 6 inches; second week of May; flowers, medium size, bright pink, in compact clusters.

Phlox decussata(A) (the garden perennial hybrids).—Height, 1 to 3 feet; third week of July; flowers, of many beautiful shades and colors, are found in the large number of named varieties of this phlox, which continues to bloom until late in the autumn. (D)

Phlox reptans.(A)—Height, 4 inches; fourth week of May; flowers, medium size, purple, and borne in small clusters.

Phlox subulata(A) (setacea).—Height, 6 inches; third week of May; flowers, medium size, deep pink, and borne in small clusters.

Platycodon grandiflorum.—Height, 1-1/2 to 2 feet; second week of July; flowers, very large, deep blue, borne singly or in twos.(D)

Platycodon grandiflorum var. album.—A white-flowered variety of the above and makes a fine contrast to it when they are grown together. It blooms a few days earlier than the species.

Platycodon Mariesii.—Height, 1 foot; second week of July; flowers, large and deep blue.

Polemonium coeruleum.(A)—Height, 2 feet; second week of June; flowers, deep blue, borne in terminal spikes.

Polemonium reptans.(A)—Height, 6 inches; third week of May; flowers, medium in size, blue, and borne profusely in loose clusters.

Polemonium Richardsoni.(A)—Height, 6 inches; third week of May; flowers, medium in size, blue, borne profusely in pendulous panicles.

Potentilla hybrida var. versicolor.—Height, 1 foot; fourth week of June; flowers, large, deep orange and yellow, semi-double.

Primula cortusoides.—Height, 9 inches; third week of May; flowers, small, deep rose, in compact heads.

Pyrethrum (or Chrysanthemum) uliginosum.—Height, 4 feet; September; flowers, large, white with yellow centers, and borne singly on long stems.

Rudbeckia laciniata(A) (Golden Glow).—Height, 5 to 6 feet; August; flowers, large, lemon-yellow, double, and borne on long stems. One of the best of lately introduced perennials. (D)

Rudbeckia maxima.(A)—Height, 5 to 6 feet; July and August; flowers, large, with a long cone-shaped center and bright yellow rays, and borne singly. The whole plant is very striking.

Scabiosa Caucascia.—Height, 1-1/2 feet; first week of July; flowers, large, light blue, and borne singly on long stems, very freely throughout remainder of the summer.

Solidago Canadensis(A) (Golden-rod).—Height, 3 to 5 feet; first week of August; flowers, small, golden yellow, and borne in dense panicles.

Spiraea (properly Aruncus) astilboides.—Height, 2 feet; fourth week of June; flowers, small, white, very numerous, and borne in many branched panicles. Both foliage and flowers are ornamental.

Spiraea (or Ulmaria) Filipendula.—Height, 2 to 3 feet; third week of June; flowers, pure white, borne profusely in loose panicles. The foliage of this species is also very good. There is a double flowered variety which is very effective. (D)

Spiraea (Ulmaria) purpurea var. elegans.—Height, 2 to 3 feet; first week of July; flowers, whitish with crimson anthers, borne very profusely in panicles.

Spiraea Ulmaria (Ulmaria pentapetala).—Height, 3 to 4 feet; second week of July; flowers, very numerous, dull white, borne in large compound heads, having a soft, feathery appearance.

Spiraea venusta (Ulmaria rubra var. venusta).—Height, 4 feet; second week of July; flowers, small, bright pink, borne profusely in large panicles. (D)

Statice latifolia.—Height, 1-1/2 feet; first week of July; flowers, small, blue, borne very profusely in loose panicles. Very effective in the border.

Thalictrum aquilegifolium.—Height, 4 to 5 feet; fourth week of June; flowers, small, white to purplish, very numerous and borne in large panicles.

Trollius Europoeus.—Height, 1-1/2 to 2 feet; fourth week of May; flowers, large, bright yellow, continuing a long time.

4. BULBS AND TUBERS

(See the particular culture of the different kinds in Chapter VIII; and instructions for forcing on p. 345.)

It is customary to write of bulbs and tubers together, because the tops and flowers of all the bulbous and tuberous plants spring from large reservoirs of stored food, giving rise to similar methods of culture and of storage.

Structurally, the bulb is very different from the tuber, however. A bulb is practically a large dormant bud, the scales representing the leaves, and the embryo stem lying in the center. Bulbs are condensed plants in storage. The tuber, on the other hand, is a solid body, with buds arising from it. Some tubers represent thickened stems, as the Irish potato, and some thickened roots, as probably the sweet-potato, and some both stem and root, as the turnip, parsnip, and beet. Some tubers are very bulb-like in appearance, as the corms of crocus and gladiolus.

Using the word "bulb" in the gardener's sense to include all these plants as a cultural group, we may throw them into two classes: the hardy kinds, to be planted in fall; and the tender kinds, to be planted in spring.

Fall-planted bulbs.

The fall-planted bulbs are of two groups: the "Holland bulbs" or early spring bloomers, as crocus, tulip (Fig. 255), hyacinth (Fig. 262), narcissus (Fig. 260), squill (Fig. 256), snowdrop; the summer bloomers, as lilies (Figs. 258, 259). The treatments of the two groups are so similar that they may be discussed together.



All these bulbs may be planted as soon as they are mature; but in practice they are kept till late September or October before they are put into the ground, as nothing is gained by earlier planting, and, moreover, the ground is usually not ready to receive them until some other crop is removed.



These bulbs are planted in the fall (1) because they keep better in the ground than when stored; (2) because they will take root in fall and winter and be ready for the first warmth of spring; (3) and because it is usually impossible to get on the ground early enough in spring to plant them with much hope of success for that season.

The bulbs lie dormant until spring, so far as outward appearances go; they are mulched to insure that they will not start in warm weather of fall or winter, and to protect the ground from heaving.



To secure good bulbs and of the desired varieties, the order should be placed in spring or early summer. For flower-garden effects, the large and mature bulbs should be secured; for colonizing in shrubbery or on the lawn, the smaller sizes may be sufficient. Insist that your bulbs shall be first class, for there is wide difference in the quality; even with the best of treatment, good results cannot be secured from poor bulbs.



It is not generally known that there are autumn-flowering bulbs. Several species of crocus bloom in the fall, C. sativus (the saffron crocus) and C. speciosus being the ones generally recommended. The colchicums are excellent autumn-blooming bulbs and should be more generally planted. C. autumnale, rosy purple, is the usual species. These autumn-blooming bulbs are planted in August or early September and treated in general the same as other similar bulbs. The colchicums usually remain in the ground several years in good condition.

All kinds of bulbs are partial to a deep, rich, water-free soil. This is no small part of their successful culture. The spot should be well drained, either naturally or artificially. In flattish and rather moist lands the beds may be made above the surface, some 18 inches high, and bordered with grass. A layer of rough stones a foot deep is sometimes used in the bottom of ordinary beds for drainage, and with good results, when other methods are not convenient, and when there is fear that the bed may become too wet. If the place is likely to be rather wet, place a large handful of sand where the bulb is to go and set the bulb on it. This will keep the water from standing around the bulb. Very good results may be had in heavy soil by this method.



The soil for bulbs should be well enriched with old manure. Fresh manure should never be allowed close about the bulb. The addition of leafmold and a little sand also improves the texture of heavy soils. For lilies the leafmold may be omitted. Let the spading be at least a foot deep. Eighteen inches will be none too deep for lilies. To make a bulb bed, throw out the top earth to the depth of 6 inches. Put into the bottom of the bed about 2 inches of well-rotted manure and spade it into the soil. Throw back half of the top soil, level it off nicely, set the bulbs firmly on this bed, and then cover them with the remainder of the earth; in this way one will have the bulbs from 3 to 4 inches below the surface, and they will all be of uniform depth and will give uniform results if the bulbs themselves are well graded. The "design" bed may be worked out easily in this way, for all the bulbs are fully exposed after they are placed, and they are all covered at once.

Of course, it is not necessary that the home gardener go to the trouble of removing the earth and replacing it if he merely wants good blooms; but if he wants a good bed as a whole, or a mass effect, he should take this pains. In the shrubberies and on the lawn he may "stick them in" here and there, seeing that the top of the bulb is 3 to 6 inches beneath the surface, the depth depending on the size of the bulb (the bigger and stronger the bulb, the deeper it may go) and on the nature of the soil (they may go deeper in sand than in hard clay).



As the time of severe winter freezing approaches, the bed should receive a mulch of leaves, manure or litter, to the depth of 4 inches or more, according to the latitude and the kind of material. If leaves are used, 3 inches will be enough, because the leaves lie close together and may smother out the frost that is in the ground and let the bulbs start. It will be well to let the mulch extend 1 foot or more beyond the margins of the bed. When cold weather is past, half of the mulch should be removed. The remainder may be left on till there is no longer danger of frost. On removing the last of the mulch, lightly work over the surface among the bulbs with a thrust-hoe.

If the weather happens to be very bright during the blooming season, the duration of the flowers may be prolonged by light shading—as with muslin, or slats placed above the beds. If planted where they have partial shade from surrounding trees or shrubbery, the beds will not need attention of this kind.

Lilies may remain undisturbed for years. Crocuses and tulips may stand two years, but hyacinths should be taken up each year and replanted; tulips also will be better for the same treatment. Narcissus may remain for some years, or until they show signs of running out.



Bulbs that are to be taken up should be left in the ground till the foliage turns yellow, or dies down naturally. This gives the bulbs a chance to ripen. Cutting off the foliage and digging too early is a not uncommon and serious mistake. Bulbs that have been planted in places that are wanted for summer bedding plants may be dug with the foliage on and heeled-in under a tree, or along a fence, to stand till ripened. The plant should be injured as little as possible, as the foliage of this year makes the flowers of the next. When the foliage has turned yellow or died down, the bulbs—after cleaning, and curing them for a few hours in the sun—may be stored in the cellar or other cool, dry place, to await fall planting. Bulbs that are lifted prematurely in this way should be planted permanently in the borders, for they will not make good flower-garden subjects the following year. In fact, it is usually best to buy fresh, strong bulbs each year of tulips, hyacinths, and crocuses if the best results are desired, using the old bulbs for shrubberies and mixed borders.

Crocuses and squills are often planted in the lawn. It is not to be expected that they will last more than two to three years, however, even if care is taken not to cut the tops closely when the lawn is cut. The narcissus (including daffodils and jonquils) will remain in good condition for years in grassy parts of the place, if the tops are allowed to mature.



List of outdoor fall-planted bulbs for the North.

Crocus. Hyacinth. Tulip. Narcissus (including daffodil and jonquil). Scilla, or squill. Snowdrop (Galanthus). Snowflake (Leucoium). Chionodoxa. Hardy alliums. Bulbocodium. Camassia. Lily-of-the-valley. Winter aconite (Eranthis hycmalis). Dog-tooth violets (Erythronium). Crown imperial (Fritillaria Imperialis). Fritillary (Fritillaria Mekagris). Trilliums. Lilies.

Peonies, tuberous anemones, tuberous buttercups, iris, bleeding heart, and the like, may be planted in autumn and are often classed with fall-planted bulbs.

Winter bulbs (p. 345).

Some of these bulbs may be made to bloom in the greenhouse, window-garden, or living room in winter. Hyacinths are particularly useful for this purpose, because the bloom is less affected by cloudy weather than that of tulips and crocuses. Some kinds of narcissus also "force" well, particularly the daffodil; and the Paper-white and "Chinese sacred lily" are practically the only common bulbs from which the home gardener may expect good bloom before Christmas. The method of handling bulbs for winter bloom is described under Window-gardening (on p. 345).

Summer bulbs.

There is nothing special to be said of the culture of the so-called summer-blooming and spring-planted bulbs, as a class. They are tender, and are therefore planted after cold weather is past. For early bloom, they may be started indoors. Of course, any list of spring-planted bulbs is relative to the climate, for what may be planted in spring in New York perhaps may be planted in the fall in Georgia.

The common "summer bulbs" are:—

Gladiolus Tuberose Dahlia Canna Arum Calla Calochortus Alstremeria Amaryllis Colocasia

5. THE SHRUBBERY

(Exclusive of coniferous evergreens and climbing plants.)

The common hardy shrubs or bushes may be planted in fall or spring. In the northernmost parts of the country and in Canada spring planting is usually safer, although on well-drained ground and when thoroughly mulched the plants may even there do well if planted as soon as the leaves drop in fall. If the shrubs are purchased in spring, they are likely to have come from "cellared stock"; that is, the nurserymen dig much of their stock in fall and store it in cellars built for the purpose. While stock that is properly cellared is perfectly reliable, that which has been allowed to get too dry or which has been otherwise improperly handled comes on very slowly in the spring, makes a poor growth the first year, and much of it may die.

In the planting of any kind of trees or shrubs, it is well to remember that nursery-grown specimens generally transplant more readily and thrive better than trees taken from the wild; and this is particularly true if the stock was transplanted in the nursery. Trees that transplant with difficulty, as the papaw or asimina, and some nut trees, may be prepared for removal by cutting some of their roots—and especially the tap-root, if they have such—a year or two in advance.



It is ordinarily best to plow or spade the entire area in which the shrubs are to be set. For a year or two the ground should be tilled between the shrubs, either by horse tools or by hoes and rakes. If the place looks bare, seeds of quick-growing flowers may be scattered about the edges of the mass, or herbaceous perennials may be used.

The larger shrubs, as lilacs and syringas, may be set about 4 feet apart; but the smaller ones should be set about 2 feet apart if it is desired to secure an immediate effect. If after a few years the mass becomes too crowded, some of the specimens may be removed (p. 76).

Throw the shrubs into an irregular plantation, not in rows, and make the inner edge of the mass more or less undulating and broken.

It is a good practice to mulch the plantation each fall with light manure, leaf mold, or other material. Even though the shrubs are perfectly hardy, this mulch greatly improves the land and promotes growth. After the shrub borders have become two or three years old, the drifting leaves of fall will be caught therein and will be held as a mulch (p. 82).

When the shrubs are first planted, they are headed back one half or more (Fig. 45); but after they are established they are not to be sheared, but allowed to take their own way, and after a few years the outermost ones will droop and meet the green-sward (pp. 25, 26).

Many rapid-growing trees may be utilized as shrubs by cutting them off near the ground every year, or every other year, and allowing young shoots to grow. Basswood, black ash, some of the maples, tulip tree, mulberry, ailanthus, paulownia, magnolias, Acer campestre, and others may be treated in this way (Fig. 50).

Nearly all shrubs bloom in spring or early summer. If kinds blooming late in summer or in fall are desired, they maybe looked for in baccharis, caryopteris, cephalanthus, clethra, hamamelis, hibiscus, hydrangea, hypericum, lespedeza, rhus (R. Cotinus), Sambucus Canadensis in midsummer, tamarisk.

Plants that bloom in very early spring (not mentioning such as birches, alders, and hazels) may be found in amelanchier, cydonia, daphne, dirca, forsythia, cercis (in tree list), benzoin, lonicera (L. fragrantissima), salix (S. discolor and other pussy willows), shepherdia.

Shrubs bearing conspicuous berries, pods, and the like, that persist in fall or winter may be found in the genera berberis (particularly B. Thunbergii), colutea, corylus, crataegus, euonymus, ilex, physocarpus, ostrya, ptelea, pyracantha (Plate XIX) pyrus, rhodotypos, rosa (R. rugosa), staphylea, symphoricarpus, viburnum, xanthoceras.

List of shrubbery plants for the North.

The following list of shrubs (of course not complete) comprises a selection with particular reference to southern Michigan and central New York, where the mercury sometimes falls to fifteen degrees below zero. Application is also made to Canada by designating species that have been found to be hardy at Ottawa.

The list is arranged alphabetically by the names of the genera.

The asterisk (A) denotes that the plant is native to North America.

The double dagger (DD) indicates species that are recommended by the Central Experimental Farms, Ottawa, Ontario.

It is often difficult to determine whether a group should be listed among shrubs or trees. Sometimes the plant is not quite a tree and is yet something more than a shrub or bush; sometimes the plant may be distinctly a tree in its southern range and a shrub in its northern range; sometimes the same genus or group contains both shrubs and trees. In the following genera there are doubtful cases: aesculus, alnus, amelanchier, betula, caragana, castanea, cornus (C. florida), crataegus, elaeagnus, prunus, robinia.

Dwarf buckeye, AEsculus parviflora (Pavia macrostachya).(A) Attractive in habit, foliage, and flower; produces a large foliage mass.

Alder. Several bushy species of alder are good lawn or border subjects, particularly in wet places or along streams, as A. viridis,(A) A. rugosa,(A) A. incana,(A) and others.

June-berry, Amelanchier Canadensis(A) and others. Flowers profusely in spring before the leaves appear; some of them become small trees.

Azalea, Azalea viscosa(A) and A. nudiflora.(A) Require partial shade, and a woodsy soil.

Japanese azalea, A. mollis (or A. Sinensis). Showy red and yellow or orange flowers; hardy north.

Groundsel tree, "white myrtle," Baccharis halimifolia.(A) Native on the Atlantic seashore, but grows well when planted inland; valuable for its white fluffy "bloom" (pappus) in latest fall; 4-10 ft.

Spice-bush, Benzoin odoriferum (Lindera Benzoin(A)). Very early-blooming bush of wet places, the yellow, clustered, small flowers preceding the leaves; 6—10 ft.

Barberry, Berberis vulgaris. Common barberry; 4-6 ft. The purple-leaved form (var. purpurea(DD)) is popular.

Thunberg's barberry, B. Thunbergii.(DD) One of the best of lawn and border shrubs, with compact and attractive habit, deep red autumn foliage and bright scarlet berries in profusion in fall and winter; excellent for low hedges; 2-4 ft.

Mahonia, Berberis Aquifolium.(A)(DD) Evergreen; needs some protection in exposed places; 1-3 ft.

Dwarf birch, Betula pumila.(A) Desirable for low places; 3-10 ft.

Box, Buxus sempervirens. An evergreen shrub, useful for hedges and edgings in cities; several varieties, some of them very dwarf. See page 220.

Carolina allspice, sweet-scented shrub, Calycanthus floridus.(A) Dull purple, very fragrant flowers; 3-8 ft.

Siberian pea-tree, Caragana arborescens.(DD) Flowers pea-like, yellow, in May; very hardy; 10-15 feet.

Small pea-tree, C. pygmoea. Very small, 1-3 ft, but sometimes grafted on C. arborescens.

Shrubby pea-tree, C. frutescens.(DD) Flowers larger than those of C. arborescens; 3—10 ft.

Large-flowered pea-tree, C. grandiflora.(DD) Larger-flowered than the last, which it resembles; 4 ft.

Blue spirea, Caryopteris Mastacanthus. Flowers bright blue, in late summer and fall; 2-4 ft., but is likely to die to ground in winter.

Chinquapin or dwarf chestnut, Castanea pumila.(A) Becomes a small tree, but usually bushy.

Ceanothus, Ceanothus Americanus.(A) A very small native shrub, desirable for dry places under trees; 2-3 ft. There are many good European garden forms of ceanothus, but not hardy in the northern states.

Button-bush, Cephalanthus occidentalis.(A) Blossoms in July and August; desirable for water-courses and other low places; 4-10 ft.

Fringe tree, Chionanthus Virginica.(A) Shrub as large as lilac, or becoming tree-like, with fringe-like white flowers in spring.

White alder, Clethra alnifolia.(A) A very fine, hardy shrub, producing very fragrant flowers in July and August; should be better known; 4-10 ft.

Bladder senna, Colutea arborescens. Pea-like yellowish flowers in June, and big inflated pods; 8-12 ft.

European osier, Cornus alba (known also as C. Sibirica and C. Tatarica). Branches deep red; 4-8 ft.; the variegated form (DD) has leaves edged white.

Bailey's osier, Cornus Baileyi.(A) Probably the finest of the native osiers for color of twigs and foliage; 5-8 ft.

Red-twigged osier, Cornus stolonifera.(A) The red twigs are very showy in winter; 5 to 8 ft.; some bushes are brighter in color than others.

Flowering dogwood, C. florida.(A) Very showy tree or big shrub, desirable for borders of groups and belts. A red-flowered variety is on the market.

Cornelian Cherry, Cornus Mas. Becoming a small tree, 15-20 ft.; flowers numerous in bunches, yellow, before the leaves; fruit, cherry-like, edible, red.

Hazel or filbert, Corylus maxima var. purpurea. A well-known purple-leaved shrub, usually catalogued as C. Avellana purpurea. The eastern American species (C. Americana(A) and C. rostrata(A)) are also interesting.

Cotoneaster. Several species of cotoneaster are suitable for cultivation in the middle and southern latitudes. They are allied to crataegus. Some are evergreen. Some kinds bear handsome persistent fruits.

Wild thorns, Cratoegus punctata,(A) C. coccinea,(A)(DD) C. Crus-galli,(A)(DD) and others. The native thorn apples or hawthorns, of numerous species, are amongst our best large shrubs for planting and should be much better known; 6-20 ft.

Japanese quince, Cydonia (or Pyrus) Japonica. An old favorite blooming in earliest spring, in advance of the leaves; not hardy at Lansing, Mich.; 4-5 ft.

Maule's Japanese quince, C. Maulei.(DD) Bright red; fruit handsome; hardier than C. Japonica; 1-3 ft.

Daphne, Daphne Mezereum. Produces rose-purple or white flowers in abundance in earliest spring before the leaves appear. Should be planted on the edges of groups; leaves deciduous; 1-4 ft.

Garland flower, D. Cneorum.(DD) Pink flowers in very early spring and again in autumn; leaves evergreen; 1-1/2 ft.

Deutzia, Deutzia scabra (or crenata) and varieties. Standard shrubs; the variety "Pride of Rochester," with pinkish flowers, is perhaps the best form for the North; 4-6 ft. Of this and the next there are forms with ornamental foliage.

Small deutzia, D. gracilis. Very close little bush, with pure white flowers; 2-3 ft.

Lemoine's deutzia, D. Lemoinei. A hybrid, very desirable; 1-3 ft.

Weigela, Diervilla Japonica and other species. Free bloomers, very fine, in many colors, 4-6 ft.; the forms known as Candida,(DD) rosea,(DD) Sieboldii variegata,(DD) are hardy and good.

Leatherwood, Dirca palustris.(A) If well grown, the leatherwood makes a very neat plant; blossoms appear before the leaves, but not showy; 4-6 ft.

Russian olive, oleaster, Eloeagnus angustifolia.(DD) Foliage silvery white; very hardy; becoming a small tree, 15-20 ft.

Wolf-willow, E. argentea.(A)(DD) Large and silvery leaves; suckers badly; 8-12 ft.

Goumi, E. longipes (sometimes called E. edulis). Attractive spreading bush, with handsome edible cranberry-like berries; 5-6 ft.

Burning-bush, Euonymus atropurpureus.(A) Very attractive in fruit; 8-12 ft., or even becoming tree-like.

Several other species are in cultivation, some of them evergreen. In the North, success may be expected with E. Europoeus (sometimes a small tree), E. alatus, E. Bungeanus, E. latifolius, and perhaps others.

Exochorda, Exochorda grandiflora. A large and very showy shrub, producing a profusion of apple-like white flowers in early spring; 6-12 ft; allied to the spireas.

Forsythia, Forsythia viridissima. Blossoms yellow, appearing before the leaves; requires protection in many places North; 6-10 ft.

Drooping forsythia, F. suspensa. Makes an attractive mass on a bank or border; 6-12 ft.

Dyer's weed, Genista tinctoria.(DD)

Yellow pea-like flowers in June; 1-3 ft.

Silver-bell tree, Halesia tetraptera.(A)

Bell-shaped white flowers in May; 8-10 ft.

Witch hazel, Hamamelis Virginiana.(A)

Blossoms in October and November; unique and desirable if well grown; 8-12 ft.

Althea, Rose of Sharon, Hibiscus Syriacus (Althoea frutex).

In many forms, purple, red, and white, and perhaps the best of late summer-blooming shrubs; 8-12 ft.

Hydrangea, Hydrangea paniculata, var. grandiflora.(DD)

One of the best and most showy small flowering shrubs; 4-10 ft.

Downy hydrangea, H. radiata.(A)

Attractive in both foliage and flower.

Oak-leaved hydrangea, H. quercifolia.(A)

This is especially valuable for its luxuriant foliage; even if killed to the ground in winter, it is still worth cultivating for its strong shoots.

The greenhouse hydrangea (H. hortensis in many forms) may be used as an outdoor subject in the South.

St. John's wort, Hypericum Kalmianum,(A)(DD) H. prolificum,(A) and H. Moserianum.

Small undershrubs, producing bright yellow flowers in profusion in July and August; 2-4 ft.

Winter-berry, Ilex verticillata.(A)(DD)

Produces showy red berries, that persist through the winter; should be massed in rather low ground; flowers imperfect; 6-8 ft.

The evergreen hollies are not suitable for cultivation in the North; but in the warmer latitudes, the American holly (Ilex opaca), English holly (I. Aquifolium), and Japanese holly (I. crenata) may be grown. There are several native species.

Mountain laurel, Kalmia latifolia.(A)

One of the best shrubs in cultivation, evergreen, 5-10 ft., or even becoming a small tree south; usually profits by partial shade; thrives in a peaty or loamy rather loose soil, and said to be averse to limestone and clay; extensively transferred from the wild for landscape effects in large private places; should thrive as far north as it grows wild.

Kerria, corchorus, Kerria Japonica. A bramble-like shrub, producing attractive yellow single or double flowers from July until September; twigs very green in winter. There is a variegated-leaved form. Good for banks and borders; 2-3 ft.

Sand myrtle, Leiophyllum buxifolium.(A) Evergreen, more or less procumbent; 2-3 ft.

Lespedeza, Lespedeza bicolor.(DD) Reddish or purple small flowers in late summer and fall; 4-8 ft.

Lespedeza, L. Sieboldii (Desmodium penduliflorum).(DD) Rose-purple large flowers in fall; killed to the ground in winter, but it blooms the following year; 4-5 ft.

Lespedeza, L. Japonica (Desmodium Japonicum). Flowers white, later than those of L. Sieboldii; springs up from the root.

Privet, Ligustrum vulgare, L. ovalifolium (L. Californicum), and L. Amurense.(DD) Much used for low hedges and borders; 4-12 ft.; several other species.

Tartarian honeysuckle, Lonicera Tatarica.(DD) One of the most chaste and comely of shrubs; 6-10 ft.; pink-flowered; several varieties.

Regel's honeysuckle, L. spinosa (L. Alberti).(DD) Blooms a little later than above, pink; 2-4 ft.

Fragrant honeysuckle, L. fragrantissima. Flowers exceedingly fragrant, preceding leaves; 2-6 ft.; one of the earliest things to bloom in spring. There are other upright honeysuckles, all interesting.

Mock-orange (Syringa incorrectly), Philadelphus coronarius.(DD) In many forms and much prized; 6-12 ft. Other species are in cultivation, but the garden nomenclature is confused. The forms known as P. speciosus, P. grandiflorus, and var. speciosissimus(DD) are good; also the species P. pubescens,(A) P. Gordonianus,(A) and P. microphyllus,(A) the last being dwarf, with small white very fragrant flowers.

Nine-bark, Physocarpus opulifolius (Spiraea opulifolia).(A) A good vigorous hardy bush, with clusters of interesting pods following the flowers; the var. aurea (DD) is one of the best yellow-leaved shrubs; 6-10 ft.

Andromeda, Pieris floribunda.(A)

A small ericaceous evergreen; should have some protection from the winter sun; for this purpose, it may be planted on the north side of a clump of trees; 2-6ft.

Shrubby cinquefoil, Potentilla fruticosa.(A)(DD)

Foliage ashy; flowers yellow, in June; 2-4 ft.

Sand cherry, Prunus pumila(A) and P. Besseyi.(A)

The sand cherry of sandy shores grows 5-8 ft.; the western sand cherry (P. Besseyi) is more spreading and is grown for its fruit. The European dwarf cherry (P. fruticosa) is 2-4 ft., with white flowers in umbels.

Flowering almond, Prunus Japonica.

In its double-flowered form, familiar for its early bloom; 3-5 ft; often grafted on other stocks, which are liable to sprout and become troublesome.

Hop-tree, Ptelea trifoliata.(A)

Very interesting when bearing its roundish winged fruits; 8-10 ft., but becoming larger and tree-like.

Buckthorn, Rhamnus cathartica.

Much used for hedges; 8-12 ft.

Alpine buckthorn, R. alpina.

Foliage attractive; 5-6 ft.

Rhododendron, Rhododendron Catawbiense(A) and garden varieties.

Hardy in well-adapted locations, 3-8 ft., and higher in its native regions.

Great laurel, R. maximum(A)

A fine species for mass planting, native as far north as southern Canada. Extensively transplanted from the wild.

White kerria, Rhodotypos kerrioides.

White flowers in May and blackish fruit; 3-5 ft.

Smoke-tree (Fringe-tree erroneously), Rhus Cotinus.

One of the best shrubs for massing; two colors are grown; the billowy "bloom," holding late in the season, is composed of flower stems rather than flowers; size of large lilac bushes.

Dwarf sumac, R. copallina.(A)

Attractive in foliage, and especially conspicuous in autumn from the brilliant red of its leaves; 3-5 ft., sometimes much taller.

Sumac, smooth and hairy, R. glabra(A) and R. typhina.(A)

Useful for the borders of large groups and belts. They may be cut down every year and allowed to sprout (as in Fig. 50). The young tops are handsomest. R. glabra is the finer species for this purpose. They usually grow 10-15 ft. tall.

Osbeck's sumac, R. semialata var. Osbeckii.

Strong bush, 10-20 ft., with leaf-rachis strongly winged, the foliage pinnately compound.

Flowering, or fragrant currant, Ribes aureum.(A)(DD)

Well known and popular, for its sweet-scented yellow flowers in May; 5-8 ft.

Red-flowering currant, R. sanguineum.(A)

Flowers red and attractive; 5-6 ft. R. Gordonianum, recommendable, is a hybrid between R. sanguineum and R. aureum.

Rose acacia, Robinia hispida.(A)(DD)

Very showy in bloom; 8-10ft.

Roses, Rosa, various species.

Hardy roses are not always desirable for the lawn. For general lawn purposes the older sorts, single or semi-double, and which do not require high culture, are to be preferred. It is not intended to include here the common garden roses; see Chapter VIII for these. It is much to be desired that the wild roses receive more attention from planters. Attention has been too exclusively taken by the highly improved garden roses.



Japanese rose, Rosa rugosa.(DD)

Most excellent for lawn planting, as the foliage is thick and not attacked by insects (Fig. 263); white and pink flowered forms; 4-6 ft.

Wild swamp rose, R. Carolina.(A) 5-8 ft.

Wild dwarf rose, R. humilis(A) (R. lucida of Michigan). This and other wild dwarf roses, 3-6 ft., may be useful in landscape work.

Say's Rose, R. acicularis var. Sayi.(A) Excellent for lawns; 4-5 ft.

Red-leaved rose, R. ferruginea (R. rubrifolia).(DD) Excellent foliage; flowers single, pink; 5-6 ft.

Japanese bramble, Rubus crataegifolius. Valuable for holding banks; spreads rapidly; very red in winter; 3-4 ft.

Flowering raspberry, mulberry (erroneously), R. odoratus(A) Attractive when well grown and divided frequently to keep it fresh; there is a whitish form; 3-4 ft.

Japanese wineberry, R. phaenicolasius. Attractive foliage and red hairy canes; fruit edible; 3-5 ft.

Kilmarnock willow, Salix Capraea, var. pendula. A small weeping plant grafted on a tall trunk; usually more curious than ornamental.

Rosemary willow, S. rosmarinifolia(DD) of nurserymen (R. incana properly). 6-10 ft.

Shining willow, S. lucida.(A) Very desirable for the edges of water; 6-12 ft.

Long-leaved willow, S. interior.(A) Our narrowest-leaved native willow; useful for banks; liable to spread too rapidly; 8-12ft.

Fountain willow, S. purpurea. Attractive foliage and appearance, particularly if cut back now and then to secure new wood; excellent for holding springy banks; 10-20 ft.

Pussy willow, S. discolor(A) Attractive when massed at some distance from the residence; 10-15 ft.

Laurel-leaved willow, S. pentandra (S. laurifolia of cultivators)(DD) See under Trees, p. 329. Many of the native willows might well be cultivated.

Elders, Sambucus pubens(A) and S. Canadensis.(A) The former, the common "red elder," is ornamental both in flower and fruit. S. Canadensis is desirable for its profusion of fragrant flowers appearing in July; the former is 6—7 ft. high and the latter 8-10 ft. Golden-leaved elder, S. nigra var. foliis aureis,(DD) and also the cut-leaved elder, are desirable forms of the European species; 5-15 ft.

Buffalo-berry, Shepherdia argentea(A) Silvery foliage; attractive and edible berries; 10-15 ft., often tree-like.

Shepherdia, S. Canadensis.(A) Spreading bush, 3—8 ft., with attractive foliage and fruit.

Early spirea, Spiraea arguta.(DD) One of the earliest bloomers among the spireas; 2-4 ft.

Three-lobed spirea, bridal wreath,S. Van Houttei.(DD) One of the most showy early-flowering shrubs; excellent for massing; blooms a little later than the above; 3-6 ft.

Sorbus-leaved spirea, S. sorbifolia (Sorbaria sorbifolid).(DD) Desirable for its late blooming,—late June and early July; 4-5 ft.

Plum-leaved spirea, S. prunifolia.

Fortune's spirea, S. Japonica (S. callosa),(DD) 2 to 4 ft.

Thunberg's spirea, S. Thunbergii. Neat and attractive in habit; useful for border-hedges; 3-5 ft.

St. Peter's Wreath, S. hypericifolia; 4-5 ft.

Round-leaved spirea, S. bracteata.(DD) Follows Van Houttei; 3-6 ft.

Douglas' spirea, S. Douglasii.(A) Blossoms late,—in July; 4-8 ft.

Hard-hack, S. tomentosa.(A) Much like the last, but less showy; 3-4 ft.

Willow-leaved spirea,S. salicifolia.(A)(DD) Blooms late; 4-5 ft.

Bladder-nut, Staphylea trifolia(A) Well-known rather coarse native shrub; 6-12 ft.

Colchican bladder-nut, S. Colchica. Good early flowering shrub; 6-12 ft.



Styrax, Styrax Japonica. One of the most graceful of flowering shrubs, producing fragrant flowers in early summer; 8-10 ft. or more.

Snow-berry, Symphoricarpos racemosus.(A)(DD) Cultivated for its snow-white berries, that hang in autumn and early winter; 3-5 ft.