The Danvers, Prizetaker, Globe, and Wethersfield are favorite varieties, with the addition of White Queen or Barletta for pickling.

PARSLEY.—This is the most universal of garnishes. It is used also as a flavoring in soups.

The seed is slow to germinate, and often the second or third sowing is made, thinking the first is a failure; but usually after what would seem a long time the young plants will be seen. When sown in the open ground, it should be thinned to stand 3 or 4 inches in the row, the rows being 10 to 12 inches apart. A few plants in a border will give a supply for a large family, and with a little protection will live over winter.

Roots may be lifted in the fall, put into boxes or old cans, and grown in a sunny window for winter use. The Curled parsley is the form commonly used.



PARSNIP.—A standard winter and spring vegetable, of the easiest culture in deep soil (Fig. 311).

Parsnips are the better for the winter's freeze, although they are of good quality if taken up after the fall frosts and packed in soil, sand, or moss in the cellar.

The seed, which must be not over one year old, should be sown as early as possible in well-prepared soil, firmed with the feet or roller. As the seed germinates rather slowly, the ground often becomes crusted or baked over the seeds, in which case it should be broken and fined with a garden rake. This operation often means the success of the crop. Radish or cabbage seeds may be sown with the parsnip seed to mark the row and break the crust. One ounce of seed will sow 200 feet of drill. Thin to 6 inches apart in the row.

PEA.—Perhaps no vegetable is planted in greater expectancy than the pea. It is one of the earliest seeds to go into the ground, and the planting fever is impatient.

There is great difference in quality between the smooth and the wrinkled peas. The first are a little the earliest to be planted and to become fit for use, and on that account should be planted in a small way; but the wrinkled sorts are much superior in quality.

The early crop of peas may be forwarded by sprouting the seeds indoors. Soil may be made too rich or strong for peas.

For the kitchen-garden the dwarf and half-dwarf varieties are the best, as the tall kinds will need brush or wire to support them, causing considerable trouble and labor and not being as neat in appearance. The dwarf varieties should be planted four rows in a block, each row being only 6 or 8 inches apart. The peas on the two center rows may be picked from the outside. Leave a space of 2 feet and plant the same.

The tall varieties yield a larger crop than the dwarfs, but as the rows must be made from 3 to 5 feet apart, the dwarf ones, which are planted only 6 to 8 inches apart, will give as large a yield on the same area. Always plant double rows of the tall varieties; that is, two rows from 4 to 6 inches apart, with the brush or wire between, the double rows being from 3 to 5 feet apart, according to varieties.

At the time of the first planting only the smooth varieties should be sown, but by the middle of April in New York the ground will be warm and dry enough for wrinkled sorts. Succession crops should be sown that will come to maturity one after the other, extending the season six or eight weeks. If a further supply is wanted, the early quick-maturing varieties may be sown in August, usually giving a fair crop of peas in September and early October. In the hot weather of midsummer they do not thrive so well. One quart of seed will plant about 100 feet of drill.



PEPPER.—The garden pepper is not the pepper of commerce; it is more properly known as red pepper (though the pods are not always red), chilli, and capsicum. The pods are much used in the South, and most Northern households now employ them to some extent.

Peppers are tender while young, although they will endure a heavy frost in the fall. Their culture is that recommended for egg-plants. A small seedsman's packet of seed will be sufficient for a large number of plants, say two hundred. The large bell peppers (Fig. 312) are the mildest, and are used for making "stuffed peppers" and other dishes. The small, hot peppers are used for seasoning and sauces.

POTATO.—The potato is rather more a field crop than a home-garden product; yet the home-gardener often desires to grow a small early lot.

The common practice of growing potatoes on elevated ridges or hills is wrong, unless the soil is so wet that this practice is necessary to insure proper drainage (but in this case the land is not adapted to the growing of potatoes), or unless it is necessary, in a particular place, to secure a very early crop. If the land is elevated into ridges or hills, there is great loss of moisture by means of evaporation. During the last cultivating the potatoes may be hilled up slightly in order to cover the tubers; but the hills should not be made in the beginning for the main crop if land and conditions are right.

Land for potatoes should be rather loamy in character, and ought to have a liberal supply of potash, either naturally or supplied in the drill, by means of an application of sulfate of potash. See that the land is deeply plowed or spaded, so that the roots can penetrate deeper. Plant the potatoes 3 or 4 inches below the natural surface of the ground. It is ordinarily best to drop the pieces in drills. A continuous drill or row may be made by dropping one piece every 6 inches, but it is usually thought best to drop two pieces about every 12 to 18 inches. The drills are far enough apart to allow good cultivation. If horse cultivation is used, the drills should be at least 3 feet apart.

Small potatoes are considered not to be so good as large ones for planting. One reason is because too many sprouts arise from each one, and these sprouts are likely to crowd each other. The same is true of the tip end or seed end of the tuber. Even when the tip is cut off, the eyes are so numerous that one secures many weak shoots rather than two or three strong ones. It is ordinarily best to cut the potatoes to two or three eyes, leaving as much tuber as possible with each piece. From 7 to 10 bushels of potatoes are required to plant an acre.



For a very early crop in the garden, tubers are sometimes sprouted in the cellar. When the sprouts are 4 to 6 inches high, the tubers are carefully planted. It is essential that the sprouts are not broken in the handling. In this practice, also, the tubers are first cut into large pieces, so that they will not dry out too much.

The staple remedy for the potato bug is Paris green, 2 pounds or more of poison to 150 to 200 gallons of water, with a little lime. For the blight, spray with bordeaux mixture, and spray thoroughly. Bordeaux mixture will also keep away the flea beetle to a large extent.

RADISH (Plate XXV).—In all parts of the country the radish is popular as a side-dish, being used as an appetizer and for its decorative character. It is a poor product, however, if misshapen, wormy, or tough.

Radishes should be grown quickly in order to have them at their best. They become tough and woody if grown slowly or allowed to stay in the ground too long. A light soil, well enriched, will grow most of the early varieties to table size in three to five weeks. To have a supply through the early months, sowings should be made every two weeks. For spring use, the French Breakfast is still a standard variety (Fig. 313).

For summer, the large white or gray varieties are best. The winter varieties may be sown in September, harvested before severe frosts, and stored in sand in a cool cellar. When they are to be used, if thrown into cold water for a short time they will regain their crispness.

Sow radishes thickly in drills, 12 to 18 inches apart. Thin as needed.



RHUBARB, OR PIE PLANT.—A strong perennial herb, to be grown in a bed or row by itself at one end or side of the garden. It is a heavy feeder.

Rhubarb is usually propagated by division of the fleshy roots, small pieces of which will grow if separated from the old established roots and planted in rich mellow soil. Poor soil should be made rich by spading out at least 3 feet of the surface, filling with well-rotted manure to within 1 foot of the level, throwing in the top soil and setting the roots with the crowns 4 inches below the surface, firming them with the feet. The stalks should not be cut for use until the second year. See that the plant does not want for water when it is making its heavy leaf growth. In fall, coarse manure should be thrown over the crowns, to be forked or spaded in lightly when spring opens.

In growing seedling rhubarb, the seed may be sown in a coldframe in March or April, protected from freezing, and in two months the plants will be ready to set in rows, 12 inches apart. Give the plants good cultivation, and the following spring they may be set in a permanent place. At this time the plants should be set in well-prepared ground, at a distance each way of 4 to 5 feet, and treated as those set with pieces of roots.

If given good care and well manured, the plants will live for years and yield abundantly. Two dozen good roots will supply a large family.



SALSIFY, or VEGETABLE OYSTER (Fig. 314).—Salsify is one of the best of winter and early spring vegetables, and should be grown in every garden. It may be cooked in several different ways, to bring out the oyster flavor.

The seed should be sown as early in the spring as possible. Handle the same as parsnips in every way. The roots, like parsnips, are the better for the winter freeze, but part of the crop should be dug in the fall, and stored in soil or moss in a cellar for winter use.

SEA-KALE is a strong-rooted perennial, the shoots of which are very highly prized as a delicacy when blanched.

Seed should be sown in a hotbed early in the spring, plants transplanted to the garden when from 2 to 3 inches high, and given good cultivation through the season, being covered with litter on the approach of winter. The young stalks are blanched early the following spring by covering with large pots or boxes, or by banking with sand or other clean material. The Dwarf Green Scotch, Dwarf Brown, and Siberian are among the leading varieties. Sea-kale is eaten much as asparagus is. It is highly prized by those who know it.

Sea-kale is also propagated by cuttings of the roots 4 or 5 inches long, planted directly in the soil in spring. The plant being perennial, the early shoots may be bleached year after year.

SORREL of the European garden sorts may be sown in spring, in drills 16 inches apart in beds, or 3 to 3-1/2 feet apart in rows. After the plants are well established they should be thinned to 10 to 12 inches apart in the rows. They are perennial, and may be kept growing in the same place for several years. Broad-leaved French is the most popular variety.

SPEARMINT is prized by many persons as a seasoning, particularly for the Thanksgiving and holiday cookery.

It is a perennial and perfectly hardy, and will live in the open garden year after year. If a supply of the fresh herbage is wanted in winter, remove sods of it to the house six weeks before wanted. Place the sods in boxes, and treat as for house plants. The plants should have been frosted and become perfectly dormant before removal.

SPINACH.—The most extensively grown of all "greens," being in season in earliest spring, and in fall and winter.

The earliest spinach that finds its way to market is produced from seed sown in September or October, often protected by frames or other means through the severe winter, and cut soon after growth starts in early spring. Even as far north as New York spinach may stand over winter without protection.

Spinach is forced by placing sash over the frames in February and March, protecting the young leaves from severe freezing by mats or straw thrown over the frames.

Seed may be sown in early spring for a succession; later in the season seed of the New Zealand summer spinach may be sown, and this will grow through the heat of the summer and yield a fine quality of leaves. The seed of this kind, being very hard, should be scalded and allowed to soak a few hours before sowing. This seed is usually sown in hills about 3 feet apart, sowing four to six seed in each hill.

The spring and winter spinach should be sown in drills 12 to 14 inches apart, one ounce being sufficient for 100 feet of drill. Remember that common spinach is a cool-weather (fall and spring) crop.

SQUASH.—The summer squashes rarely fail of a crop if they once escape the scourge of the striped beetle. The late varieties are not so certain; they must secure a strong start, and be on "quick" fertile warm land in order to make a crop before the cool nights of fall (Fig. 315).



The time of planting, method of preparing the hills, and after-culture are the same as for cucumbers and melons, except that for the early bush varieties the hills should be 4 or 5 feet apart, and for the later running varieties from 6 to 8 feet apart. From eight to ten seeds should be planted in each hill, thinning to four plants after danger from bugs is over. Of the early squashes, one ounce of seed will plant fifty hills; of the later varieties, one ounce will plant but eighteen to twenty hills. For winter use, varieties of the Hubbard type are best. For summer use, the Crooknecks and Scallop squashes are popular. In growing winter squashes in a Northern climate, it is essential that the plants start off quickly and vigorously: a little chemical fertilizer will help.

Pumpkins are grown the same as squashes.

SWEET-POTATO is rarely grown north of Philadelphia; in the South it is a universal garden crop.

Sweet-potatoes are grown from sprouts planted on ridges or hills, not by planting the tubers, as with the common or Irish potato. The method of obtaining these sprouts is as follows: In April, tubers of sweet-potatoes are planted in a partially spent hotbed by using the whole tuber (or if a large one, by cutting it in two through the long way), covering the tubers with 2 inches of light, well-firmed soil. The sash should be put on the frames and only enough ventilation given to keep the potatoes from decaying. In ten or twelve days the young sprouts should begin to appear, and the bed should be watered if dry. The sprouts when pulled from the tuber will be found to have rootlets at the lower end and along the stems. These sprouts should be about 3 to 5 inches long by the time the ground is warm enough to plant them out on their ridges.

The ridges or hills should be prepared by plowing out a furrow 4 to 6 inches deep. Scatter manure in the furrow and plow back the soil so as to raise the center at least 6 inches above the level of the soil. On this ridge the plants are set, placing the plants well in to the leaves and about 12 to 18 inches apart in the rows, the rows being from 3 to 4 feet apart.

The after-cultivation consists in stirring the soil between the ridges; and as the vines begin to run they should be lifted frequently to prevent rooting at the joints. When the tips of the vines have been touched by frost the crop may be harvested, the tubers left to dry a few days, and stored in a dry, warm place.

To keep sweet potatoes, store in layers in barrels or boxes in dry sand, and keep them in a dry room See that all bruised or chilled potatoes are thrown out.

TOMATO.—The tomato is an inhabitant of practically every home garden, and everybody understands its culture (Fig. 316).

The early fruits are very easily grown by starting the plants in a greenhouse, hotbed, or in shallow boxes placed in windows. A pinch of seed sown in March will give all the early plants a large family can use. When the plants have reached the height of 2 or 3 inches, they should be transplanted into 3-inch flower-pots, old berry boxes, or other receptacles, and allowed to grow slowly and stocky until time to set them out, which is from May 15 on (in New York). They should be set in rows 4 or 5 feet apart, the plants being the same distance in the rows.



Some support should be given to keep the fruits off the ground and to hasten the ripening. A trellis of chicken-wire makes an excellent support, as does the light lath fencing that may be bought or made at home. Stout stakes, with wire strung the length of the rows, afford an excellent support. A very showy method is that of a frame made like an inverted V, which allows the fruits to hang free; with a little attention to trimming, the light reaches the fruits and ripens them perfectly (Fig. 317). This support is made by leaning together two lath frames.

The late fruits may be picked green and ripened on a shelf in the sun; or they will ripen if placed in a drawer.

One ounce of seed will be enough for from twelve to fifteen hundred plants. A little fertilizer in the hill will start the plants off quickly. The rot is less serious when the vines are kept off the ground and the rampant suckers are cut out. Varieties pass out and new ones come into notice, so that a list is of small permanent value.

TURNIPS and RUTABAGAS are little grown in home gardens; and yet a finer quality of vegetable than most persons know could be secured if these plants were raised on one's own soil and brought fresh to the table. They are usually a fall crop, from seed sown in July and early August, although some kitchen-gardens have them from spring-sown The culture is easy.

Turnips should be grown in drills, like beets, for the early crop. The young plants will stand light frosts. Choose a rainy day for planting, if practicable. Cover the seed very lightly. Thin the young plants to 5 to 7 inches in the row. Sow every two weeks if a constant supply is desired, as turnips rapidly become hard and woody in warm summer weather. For the fall and winter crop in the North,

"On the fourteenth day of July, Sow your turnips, wet or dry."

In many parts of the northern and middle states tradition fixes the 25th of July as the proper time for sowing flat turnips for winter use. In the middle states, turnips are sometimes sown as late as the end of August. Prepare a piece of very mellow ground, and sow the seed thinly and evenly broadcast. In spite of the old rhyme, a gentle shower will then be acceptable. These turnips are pulled after frost, the tops removed, and the roots stored in cellars or pits.

For the early crop, Purple-top Strap-leaf, Early White Flat Dutch, and Early Purple-top Milan are the favorite varieties. Yellow-fleshed sorts like Golden Ball are very fine for early table use, when well grown, but most eaters prefer white turnips in spring, although they occasionally patronize the yellow varieties in the fall. Yellow Globe is the favorite yellow fall turnip, though some persons grow yellow rutabagas and call them turnips. For late crop of white turnips, the same varieties chosen for spring sowing are also desirable.

Rutabagas are distinguished from turnips by their smooth, bluish foliage, long root, and yellow flesh. They are richer than turnips; they require the same treatment, except that the season of growth is longer. Fall-sown or summer-sown bagas should have a month the start of flat turnips.

Except the maggot (see cabbage maggot,), there are no serious insects or diseases peculiar to turnips and bagas.

WATERMELON.—The watermelon is shipped everywhere in such enormous quantities, and it covers so much space in the garden, that home-gardeners in the North seldom grow it. When one has room, it should be added to the kitchen-garden.

The culture is essentially that for muskmelons (which see), except that most varieties require a warmer place and longer period of growth. Give the hills a distance of 6 to 10 feet apart. Choose a warm, "quick" soil and sunny exposure. It is essential, in the North, that the plants grow rapidly and come into bloom early. One ounce of seed will plant thirty hills.

There are several white or yellow-fleshed varieties, but aside from their oddity of appearance they have little value. A good watermelon has a solid, bright red flesh, preferably with black seeds, and a strong protecting rind. Kolb Gem, Jones, Boss, Cuban Queen, and Dixie are among the best varieties. There are early varieties that will ripen in the Northern season, and make a much better melon than those secured on the market.

The so-called "citron," with hard white flesh, used in making preserves, is a form of watermelon.



CHAPTER XI

SEASONAL REMINDERS

The author assumes that a person who is intelligent enough to make a garden, does not need an arbitrary calendar of operations. Too exact advice is misleading and unpractical. Most of the older gardening books were arranged wholly on the calendar method—giving specific directions for each month in the year. We have now accumulated sufficient fact and experience, however, to enable us to state principles; and these principles can be applied anywhere,—when supplemented by good judgment,—whereas mere rules are arbitrary and generally useless for any other condition than that for which they were specifically made. The regions of gardening experience have expanded enormously within the past fifty and seventy-five years. Seasons and conditions vary so much in different years and different places that no hard and fast advice can be given for the performing of gardening operations, yet brief hints for the proper work of the various months may be useful as suggestions and reminders.

The Monthly Reminders are compiled from files of the "American Garden" of some years back, when the author had editorial charge of that magazine. The advice for the North (pages 504 to 516) was written by T. Greiner, La Salle, N.Y. well known as a gardener and author. That for the South (pages 516 to 526) was made by H.W. Smith, Baton Rouge, La., for the first nine months, and it was extended for "Garden-Making" to the months of October, November, and December by F.H. Burnette, Horticulturist of the Louisiana Experiment Station.

KITCHEN-GARDEN PLANTING TABLE

A GUIDE TO THE PROPER TIMES FOR SOWING OF VARIOUS SEEDS IN ORDER TO OBTAIN CONTINUOUS SUCCESSION OF CROPS

EXPLANATION OF SIGNS USED IN THE TABLE.

(0)To be sown in open ground without transplanting. Plants have to be thinned out, given proper distance.

(1) Sow in seed bed in the garden, and transplant thence to permanent place.

(2) Make two sowings in open ground during the month.

(3) Make three sowings in open ground during the month.

(4) Start in greenhouse or hot-bed, and plant out so soon as the ground is in good shape, and weather permits.

(5) Sow in open ground as soon as it can be worked.

(6) To be grown only in hot-bed or greenhouse.

(7) Sow in cold frame, keep plants there over winter with a little protection; plant out in spring as soon as the ground can be worked.

(8) To be sown in open ground, and protected with litter over winter.

(9) Plant in frame. When cold weather sets in, cover with sash and straw mats. Plants will be ready for use in December and January.

(10) Plant in cellar, barn or under benches in greenhouse.

(11) Plant outdoors on prepared beds.

(12) Sow every week in greenhouse or frame, to have a good succession.

VEGETABLES IN THE KITCHEN GARDEN

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Artichoke, American - - - (0) (0) - - - - - - - French - (4) - (1) (1) - - - - - - - Beans, Bush (6) (6) (6) (0) (2) (2) (2) (0) - - - - Beans, Pole & Lima - - - - (0) (0) - - - - - - Beets - - (4) (4) (0) (0) (0) (0) - - - - Borecole, Kale - - - - (1) (1) (1) - - - - - Broccoli - (4) (4) (1) (1) (1) - - (7) (7) - - Brussels Sprouts - - - - (1) (1) - - - - - - Cabbage, all sorts - (4) (4) (1) (1) (1) - - (7) (7) - - Cardoon - (4) (4) (1) (1) (1) - - - - - - Carrot (6) (6) (5) (0) (0) (0) (0) - - - - - Cauliflower (6) (4) (4) (1) (1) (1) - - - - - - Celeriac - (4) (4) (1) (1) (1) - - - - - - Celery - (4) (4) (1) (1) (1) - - - - - - Chicory - - (5) (0) (0) (0) - - - - - - Collards - - - - - - (0) (0) (0) - - - Corn, field - - - (0) (0) (0) - - - - - - Corn, Sweet - - - (2) (2) (2) (2) (0) - - - - Corn, Pop - - - (0) (0) (0) - - - - - - Corn, Salad - - (5) (0) (0) (0) - - (8) - - - Cress (12) (12) (12) (12) (0) (0) - - (12) (12) (12) (12) Cucumber (6) (6) (6) (4) (0) (0) - (6) (6) - - - Egg Plants - (6) (4) (1) (1) (1) - - - - - - Endive - - - (1) (1) (1) (1) - - - - - Kohlrabi (6) (6) (4) (1) (1) (1) (1) - - - - - Leek - (4) (4) (1) (1) (1) - - - - - - Lettuce (6) (4) (4) (1) (2) (2) (2) (0) (9) (9) (7) - Mangel - - (5) (0) (0) (0) - - - - - - Melon (6) (6) (6) (4) (0) (0) (9) (6) - - - - Mushroom (10) (10) (11) - - - - (11) (10) (10) (10) (10) Mustard (12) (12) (12) (0) (0) (0) - (0) (0) (12) (12) (12) Nasturtium - - - (0) (0) - - - - - - - Okra - - (4) (4) (2) (2) (2) - - - - - Onion - (4) (4) (1) (1) - - - - - - - Parsnips - - (5) (0) (0) (0) - - - - - - Parsley (6) (6) (4) (0) (0) (0) (0) - - - - - Peas - - (5) (2) (2) (2) (2) (0) - (0) - - Pepper - (4) (4) (4) (1) - - - - - - - Potatoes - - - (0) (0) - - - - - - - Pumpkin - - - (4) (0) (0) - - - - - - Radish (12) (12) (12) (3) (3) (3) - - (9) (9) - - Rutabaga - - - - - - - (0) (0) - - - Salsify - - (5) (0) - - - (0) (0) - - - Seakale - - (5) (0) (0) (0) - - - - - - Spinach - - (5) (0) (0) - - - (2) (8) - - Squash - - (4) (4) (0) (0) - - - - - - Tomato (6) (6) (4) (1) (1) (1) - (6) (6) (6) - - Turnips - - - - - - - (0) (0) - - -

N.B.—For last planting of Beans, Sweet Corn, Kohlrabi, Peas and Radishes, or even Tomatoes, take the earliest varieties, just the same as are used for first planting.

—The late sowings of Salsify are intended to remain undisturbed over winter. Roots from these sowings will, the next year, attain a size double that usually seen.



SUGGESTIONS AND REMINDERS.—I. FOR THE NORTH

JANUARY

Cabbage plants in frames need free airing whenever the temperature is above the freezing point, or so long as the soil of the bed is not frozen. Snow, in that case, should be removed soon after its fall. As long as the soil is frozen the snow can safely be left on for a number of days. Cabbage, cauliflower, and lettuce seed should be sown at intervals to secure plants for extra-early sales or setting. A month later they will be ready to transfer to boxes, which should go to the coldframe and be given protection by mats or shutters.

Coldframes must be well ventilated on warm, sunny days; leave the sashes off as long as is possible without injury to the plants. Keep the soil in a friable condition, and look carefully to any possible places where water can stand and freeze. If the frames seem too cold, bank up around them with coarse manure.

Hotbeds.—Look up and repair the sashes. Save the horse-manure from day to day, rejecting dry litter, and piling up the droppings and urine-soaked bedding in thin layers to prevent violent heating.

Lettuce in frames treat as advised for cabbage plants.

Pruning should now be considered. Perhaps it is best to prune fruit-trees in March or April, but grapes and currants and gooseberries may be pruned now. January and February are good months in which to prune peach trees. Thin out the peach trees well, taking care to remove all the dead wood. If you have much pruning to do in apple, pear, or plum orchards, you will save time by utilizing the warm days now. Study well the different methods of pruning. Never let an itinerant pruner touch your trees until you are satisfied that he understands his business.

Tools should now be inspected and repaired, and any new ones that are needed made or ordered.

FEBRUARY

Cabbage.—Sow seed of Jersey Wakefield in flats filled with light loamy soil, the last week of this month. Sow thinly, cover lightly, and place the boxes in a gentle hotbed or any warm, sunny situation. When the plants are strong, transplant them into flats 1-1/2 in. apart each way. As growth begins, gradually expose them to the open air on all favorable occasions. Late in March remove them to a coldframe, and properly harden them off before setting them in the open ground.

Celery.—We urgently advise every one who has a garden, large or small, to make a trial of the new celery-culture. You need, first, good plants. Get some seed of White Plume or Golden Self-blanching, and sow it thickly in flats filled with fine loam. Cover by sifting a thin layer of sand or fine soil over it, and firm well. Keep in a moderately warm place, watering as needed, until plants appear. If you have a number of flats, they may be placed on top of one another. At the first sign of plant-growth, bring the flats gradually to the light. When the plants are 1-1/2 or 2 in. high, transplant them into other flats, setting them in rows 2-1/2 in. apart, the plants half an inch apart in the rows. Then set the flats in a coldframe until the plants are large enough to plant out in the open ground.

Hotbeds for raising early plants should be made this month. Always break the manure up fine and tread it down well. Be sure to put enough in the center of beds, so that there will be no sagging. Fresh manure of hard-worked and well-fed horses, free from dry litter, is best. An addition of leaves used for bedding will serve to produce a more moderate but more lasting heat. Sheep-manure may also be added to the horse-manure, should there be a scant supply of the latter on hand.

Onions.—We urgently advise giving the new onion-culture a trial. For seed, buy a packet or an ounce of Prizetaker, Spanish King, White Victoria, or some other large kind of globe onion. Sow the seed in flats, in a hotbed, or in a greenhouse late in the month, and transplant the onions to the open ground as soon as the latter is in working condition. Set the plants in rows 1 ft. apart and about 3 in. apart in the row.

Plums.—Make a thorough inspection of all plum and cherry trees, wild and cultivated, for plum-knot. Cut and burn all the knots found. Remove all "mummy" plums, for they spread the fruit-rot.

Rhubarb.—Give the plants in the garden a heavy dressing of fine old compost. If you wish a few early stalks, place kegs or boxes over some of the plants, and heap over them some heating horse-manure.

MARCH

Beets.—A few seeds may be sown in the hotbed.

Cabbage, cauliflower, and celery seeds may be sown for the early crop.

Egg-plants.—Seeds should be sown. Take care that the young plants are never stunted.

Grafting may be done in favorable weather. Cherries and plums must be grafted early. Use liquid grafting-wax in cold weather.

Hotbeds may be made at any time, but do not grow impatient about the work, for there will be cold weather yet. Clean, fresh manure is necessary, and a layer 2 ft. thick should be tramped hard. When once started and the seeds sown, do not let the beds get too hot. Give them air on fine days and give the seedlings plenty of water. Use two thermometers—one to test the atmosphere and the other the heat of the soil.

Lettuce should be sown in the hotbed for an early crop.

Onion seed for the new onion-culture may be sown at the close of the month.

Peas.—Sow now, if the ground can be worked.

Peppers may be sown late in the month.

Potatoes kept for seed must not be allowed to sprout. Keep them in a temperature near freezing point. Rub off the sprouts from potatoes kept for eating, and pick out all decayed specimens.

Spinach.—Sow some seeds for an early crop.

Tomato seeds may be sown in the hotbeds.

APRIL

Artichokes.—Sow the seeds for next year's crop. A deep, rich, sandy loam is best. Fork in a dressing of well-rotted manure around the old plants.

Asparagus.—Spade in some good manure in the bed, and give the soil a thorough working before the crowns start. Sow seeds in the open ground for young plants for a new bed.

Beans.—Limas may be started on sods in a hotbed or a coldframe towards the last of the month.

Beets.—The ground should be prepared and the seed sown for beets for cattle as soon as the weather will permit. Put them in before planting corn. They will stand considerable cold weather, and should be planted early to get a start of the weeds.

Blackberries should be pruned, the brush drawn off, piled, and burned. If it is necessary, to stake them, try a wire trellis, the same as for grapes, putting on one wire 2-1/2 ft. high. The young plants should be dug before the buds start.

Cabbage seed may be sown in the open ground, in coldframes, or in pans or boxes in the house. Early varieties should be started at once. Cabbages like a rich and heavy loam, with good drainage. Give them all the manure you can get.

Cauliflower seeds may be sown toward the last of the month. They should never have a check from the time the seed is sown until harvested.

Carrot.—Sow the seed of early sorts, like Early Forcing, as soon as the ground can be worked.

Celery.—Plan to grow celery by the new method. Plenty of manure and moisture are required to do this. Sow the seed in light, rich soil in the house, hotbed, coldframe, or open ground. Transplant the plants once before setting them in the field. Page 505.

Cress.—Sow early and every two or three weeks. Watercress should be sown in damp soil or in streams. The outer edges of a hotbed may also be utilized. Cress is often a profitable crop when rightly handled.

Cucumber seeds may be sown on sods in the hotbed.

Egg-plant.—Sow in the hotbed, and transplant when 2 in. high to other beds or pots. They must have good care, for a check in their growth means all the difference between profit and loss.

Lettuce.—Sow the seeds in the hotbed, and in the open ground as soon as it can be worked. Plants sown a month ago should be transplanted.

Leek.—Sow the seeds in the open ground in drills 6 in. apart and 1 in. deep, and when large enough, thin to 1 in. in the row.

Muskmelon.—Plant seeds in sods in the hotbed.

Parsnip.—Dig the roots before they grow and become soft and pithy. Seeds may be sown as soon as the ground is dry enough to work.

Parsley.—Soak the seeds in warm water for a few hours, and sow in the open ground.

Peas.—Sow the seeds as soon as the ground can be worked. They will stand considerable cold and transplanting also. Time may be gained by sowing some seeds in moist sand in a box in the cellar and transplanting when well sprouted. Plant deep in light, dry soil; cover an inch at first, and draw in the earth as the vines grow.

Potatoes.—Plant early on rich soil free from blight and scab. For a very early crop, the potatoes may be sprouted before planting.

Peppers.—Sow the seeds in the hotbed or in the boxes in the house.

Radish seeds may be sown in the open ground or in the hotbed and the crop harvested from there. The small, round varieties are best for this purpose.

Strawberries.—Give a good, thorough cultivation between the rows and then remove the mulch from the plants, placing it in the rows, where it will help to keep the weeds down.

Salsify.—Sow the seeds as soon as the ground can be worked. Give the same care and cultivation as for carrots or parsnips.

Spinach seeds must be sown early, and then every two weeks for a succession. Thin out and use the plants before they send up flower-stalks.

Squashes.—Hubbards and summer squashes may be started on sods in the hotbed.

Tomato.—Sow in the hotbed or in shallow boxes in the house. Try some of the yellow varieties; they are the finest flavored of any.

MAY

Beans.—The bush sorts may be planted in the open ground, and limas in pots or sods in a coldframe or spent hotbed. Limas require a long season to mature, and should be started early.

Beets.—Sow for a succession. Transplant those started under glass.

Cabbages always do best on a freshly turned sod, and should be set before the land has had time to dry after plowing. The secret of success in getting a large yield of cabbage is to start with rich land and put on all the manure obtainable. Clean out the hog yard for this purpose.

Cucumbers.—Sow in the open ground toward the last of the month. A few may be started as advised for lima beans.

Lettuce.—Sow for a succession, and thin to 4 in. in the rows. Melons.—Plant in the open ground toward the end of the month. It is useless to plant melons and other cucurbitaceous plants until settled weather has arrived.

Onions.—Finish planting and transplanting, and keep all weeds down, both in the seed-bed and the open field.

Peas.—Sow for a succession.

Squashes.—Plant as advised for melons and cucumbers. They require a rich, well-manured soil.

Strawberries.—Remove the blossoms from newly set plants. Mulch with salt hay or marsh hay or clean straw or leaves those that are to bear. Mulching conserves moisture, keeps the berries clean, and prevents weeds from growing.

Sweet corn.—Plant early and late varieties, and by making two or three plantings of each, at intervals, a succession may be kept up all summer and fall. Sweet corn is delicious, and one can hardly have too much of it.

Tomatoes.—Set some early plants by the middle of the month or earner, if the ground is warm, and the season early and fair. They may be protected from the cold by covering with hay, straw, cloth, or paper, or even with earth. The main crop should not be set until the 20th or 25th, or until all danger of frost is over. However, tomatoes will stand more chilly weather than is ordinarily supposed.

JUNE

Asparagus.—Cease cutting and allow the shoots to grow. Keep the weeds down and the soil well stirred. An application of a quick commercial fertilizer or of liquid manure will be beneficial.

Beans.—Sow the wax sorts for succession. As soon as a crop is off, pull out the vines and plant the ground to late cabbage, turnips, or sweet corn.

Beets.—Transplant in rows 1 to 3 ft. apart and 6 in. in the row. Cut off most of the top, water thoroughly, and they will soon start.

Cabbage and cauliflower.—Set plants for the late crop. Rich, newly turned sod and a heavy dressing of well-rotted manure go a long way toward assuring a good crop.

Celery.—Set the main crop, and try the new method of setting the plants 7 in. apart each way, if you have rich land and can irrigate, but not unless these conditions are present. Page 505.

Cucumbers may yet be planted, if done early in the month.

Currants.—Spray with Paris green for the currant worm until the fruit sets. Hellebore is good, but it is difficult to get it of good strength; use it for all late spraying.

Lettuce.—Sow for succession in a moist, cool, and partially shaded spot. The seed does not germinate well in hot weather.

Lima beans should be hoed frequently, and started on the poles if they are contrary.

Melons.—Cultivate often and watch for the bugs. A screen of closely woven wire or mosquito netting may be used to cover the vines, or tobacco dust sifted on thickly.

Onions.—Keep free from weeds and stir the ground frequently and especially after every rain.

Squashes.—Keep the ground well cultivated and look out for bugs. (See Melons.) Layer the vines and cover the joints with fresh soil, to prevent death of the vines from the attacks of the borer.

Strawberries.—Plow up the old bed that has borne two crops, as it will usually not pay to keep it. Set the ground to late cabbage or some other crop. The young bed that has borne the first crop should have a thorough cultivation and the plow run close to the rows to narrow them to the required width. Pull up or hoe out all weeds and keep the ground clean the rest of the season. This applies with equal force to the newly set bed. A bed can be set late next month from young runners. Pinch off the end after the first joint, and allow it to root on a sod or in a small pot set level with the surface.

Tomatoes.—For an early crop train to a trellis, pinch off all side shoots, and allow all the strength to go to the main stalk. They may also be trained to poles, the same as lima beans, and can be set closer if grown in this way. Spray with the bordeaux mixture for the blight, keep the foliage thinned and the vines off the ground.

Turnips.—Sow for an early fall crop.

JULY

Beans.—Sow the wax sorts for a succession.

Beets.—Sow Early Egyptian or Eclipse for young beets next fall.

Blackberries.—Head back the young canes to 3 ft., and the laterals also when they get longer. They may be pinched with the thumbnail and finger in a small patch, but this soon makes the fingers sore, and when there are many bushes to go over, it is better to use a pair of shears or a sharp sickle.

Cabbage.—Set plants for the late crop.

Corn.—Plant sweet corn for succession and late use.

Cucumbers.—It is late to plant, but they may be put in for pickles if done before the Fourth. Cultivate those which are up, and keep an eye open for bugs.

Currants.—Cover a few bushes with muslin or burlap before the fruit ripens, and you can eat currants in August. Use hellebore, rather than Paris green, for the last brood of currant worms, and apply it as soon as the worms appear. There is little danger in using it, even if the currants are ripe.

Lettuce seed does not germinate well in hot weather. Sow in a moist, shaded position for a succession.

Lima beans.—Hoe them frequently, and give assistance to get on the poles.

Melons.—Watch for bugs, and apply tobacco dust freely around the plants. Keep them well cultivated. A light application of bone meal will pay.

Peaches, pears, and plums should be thinned to secure fine fruit and to help sustain the vigor of the tree. Ripening the seed is what draws on the tree's vitality, and if the number of seeds can be reduced one-half or two-thirds, part of the strength required to ripen them will go into perfecting the fruit and seeds left, and add greatly to the fine appearance, flavor, and quality of the edible portion.

Radishes.—Sow the early kinds for a succession, and toward the end of the month the winter sorts may be put in.

Raspberries.—Pinch back the canes to 2-1/2 ft., the same way as given for blackberries.

Squashes.—Keep the ground well stirred, and use tobacco dust freely for bugs and beetles. Cover the joints with fresh soil, to guard against injury by the vine-borer.

AUGUST

Beets.—A last sowing of the early table sorts may be made for a succession.

Cabbage.—Harvest the early crop, and give good cultivation to the main crop. Keep down the bugs and worms.

Celery.—The latest crop may yet be set. Earlier set plants should be handled as they attain sufficient size. Common drain tiles are excellent for blanching if one has them, and must be put on when the plants are about half grown. Hoe frequently to keep the plants growing.

Onions.—Harvest as soon as the bulbs are well formed. Let them lie on the ground until cured, then draw to the barn floor or some other airy place and spread thinly. Market when you can get a good price, and the sooner the better.

Tomatoes may be hastened in coloring by being picked just as they begin to color and placed in single layers in a coldframe or hotbed, where they can be covered with sash.

SEPTEMBER

In many parts of the North it is not too late to sow rye, or peas, or corn, to afford winter protection for orchards. As a rule, very late fall plowing for orchards is not advisable. Now is a good time to trim up the fence-rows and to burn the brush piles, in order to destroy the breeding places of rabbits, insects, and weeds. Cuttings of gooseberries and currants may be taken. Use only the wood of the current year's growth, making the cuttings about a foot long. Strip off the leaves, if they have not already fallen, tie the cuttings in large bundles, and bury them in a cold cellar, or in a sandy, well-drained knoll; or if the cutting-bed is well prepared and well drained, they may be planted immediately, the bed being well mulched upon the approach of winter. September and October are good months in which to set orchards, provided the ground is well prepared and well drained, and is not too much exposed to sweeping winds. Wet lands should never be set in the fall; and such lands, however, are not fit for orchards. Strawberries may still be set; also bush fruits.

Seeds of various flowers may now be sown for winter bloom, if one has a conservatory or good window. Petunias, phloxes, and many annuals make good window plants. Quicker results are secured, however, if border plants of petunias and some other things are dug up just before frost and placed in pots or boxes. Keep them cool and shaded for a couple of weeks, cut down the tops, and they will send up a vigorous and floriferous growth. Winter roses should now be in place in the beds or in pots.

There will be odd days when one can go to the woods and fields and collect roots of wild herbs and shrubs for planting in the yard or along the unused borders of the garden.

OCTOBER

Asparagus.—Old plantations should now be cleaned off, and the tops removed at once. This is a good time to apply manure to the beds. For young plantations, which may be started now as well as in spring, select a warm soil and sunny exposure, and give each plant plenty of room. We like to set them in rows 5 ft. apart and at least 2 ft. apart in the rows.

Cabbages.—The heads that will winter best are those just fully formed, not the over-ripe ones. For family use, bury an empty barrel in a well-drained spot, and fill it with good heads. Place a lot of dry leaves on top, and cover the barrel so that it will shed rain. Or, pile some cabbages in a corner of the barn floor and cover them with enough straw to prevent solid freezing. Pages 159, 470.

Cabbage-plants, started from seed last month, should be pricked out in cold-frames, putting about 600 to the ordinary sash and setting them quite deep.

Chicory.—Dig what is wanted for salad, and store it in sand in a dry cellar.

Endive.—Blanch by gathering up the leaves and tying them lightly at the tips.

General garden management.—The only planting that can be done in open ground at this time is restricted to rhubarb, asparagus, and perhaps onion-sets. Begin to think about next year's planting, and to make arrangements for the manure that will be needed. Often you can purchase it now to good advantage, and haul it while the roads are yet good. Clean up and plow the ground when the crops are harvested.

Lettuce.—Plants to be wintered over should be set in frames like cabbage-plants.

Onions.—Plant sets of Extra Early Pearl, or some other hardy kind, in the same fashion as in early spring. They are likely to winter well, and will give an early crop of fine bunching onions. For the North, fall sowing of onion-seed cannot be recommended.

Parsley.—Lift some plants and set them in a coldframe 4 or 5 in. apart, or in a box filled with good soil, and place in a light cellar or under a shed.

Pears.—Pick the winter sorts just before there is danger from freezing. Put them in a cool, dark place, where they will neither mold nor shrivel. To hasten ripening, they may be brought into a warm room as wanted.

Rhubarb.—If plants are to be set or replanted this fall, enrich the ground with a superabundance of fine old stable-manure, and give each plant a few feet of space each way. In order to have fresh pie-plant in winter, dig up some of the roots and plant them in good soil in a barrel placed in the cellar.

Sweet-potatoes.—Dig them when ripe after the first frost. Cut off the vines, and turn the potatoes out with a potato-fork or plow. Handle them carefully to prevent bruising. Only sound, well-ripened roots are in proper condition to be wintered over.

NOVEMBER

Asparagus.—Manure before winter sets in.

Beets.—They keep best in pits. Some may be kept in the cellar for use during winter, but cover them with sand or sods to prevent shriveling.

Blackberries.—Cut away the old wood and mulch the roots. Tender sorts should be laid down and lightly covered with soil at the tips.

Carrots.—Treat as advised for beets.

Celery.—Dig up the stalks, leaving the roots on, and stand them close together in a narrow trench, tops just even with the ground-level. Gradually cover them with boards, earth, and manure. Another way is to set them upright upon the floor of a damp cellar or root-house, keeping the roots moist and the tops dry. Celery can stand some frost, but not exposure to less than 22 deg. F. The stalks intended for use before Christmas may in most localities be left outdoors, to be used as wanted. Should cold weather set in early, they will need covering in some way. Page 475.

Orchard management.—Young trees should have a mound of earth raised around the stem as a support and protection against mice, etc. Small and lately planted trees may have stakes set beside them, and be tied to the stakes with a broad band. Apple and pear trees may yet be planted. Trim superfluous or unhealthy wood out of the old orchards.

Spinach.—Cover the beds lightly with leaves or litter before winter sets in.

Strawberries.—Soon it will be time to mulch the beds. Provide marsh hay, or other coarse litter, free from weed-seeds, and when the ground has frozen an inch or so, spread it all over the surface thinly and evenly.

DECEMBER

Cabbages.—Plants in coldframes should be aired freely and kept cool. Heads intended for winter and spring use, if not yet taken in or protected from severe freezing, must now be cared for. Do not cover them too deeply, nor store them in too warm a place.

Carrots.—Store them in cellars or pits. If in cellars, keep the roots covered with sand or sod, to prevent wilting.

General garden management.—Begin now to make your plans for next season's work. Carefully study up the matter of rotation, also that of feeding your crops in the most effective and economical manner. Repair frames, sashes, and tools. Clear up the garden and premises. Underdrain where needed. Beds for early vegetables should be thrown up in high, narrow ridges, with deep furrows between. This will enable you to plant them several days or weeks earlier than otherwise.

Kale.—In very exposed or northern locations cover it lightly with coarse litter.

Onions.—For winter storage select only well-ripened, perfectly dry bulbs. Store them in a dry, airy place, not in the cellar. They may be spread out thinly on the floor, away from the walls, allowed to freeze solid, and then covered several feet deep with hay or straw.

Parsnips.—Take up some roots for winter use and store them in sand in the cellar.

Strawberry-beds should be given their winter covering of marsh hay, etc., as soon as the ground is frozen solid.

SUGGESTIONS AND REMINDERS.—II. FOR THE SOUTH

JANUARY

Annuals.—All kinds of hardy annuals and perennials, such as alyssum, snapdragon, foxglove, hollyhock, phlox, poppy, pansy, lobelia, candytuft, sweet pea, Chinese pink, sweet william, larkspur, foliage cinerarias, centaurea, mignonette, and many others of the same class may be sown. Most of them should be sown thinly and where they are intended to flower, as they transplant poorly in this latitude.

Cannas, caladiums, perennial phloxes, chrysanthemums, and verbenas may be taken up, divided, and replanted.

Roses may be planted in quantities. Let the ground intended for them have a thorough dressing of manure. Occasionally a plant may be taken up and divided. The hybrid varieties may now be layered. This is done as follows: Select a shoot and bend it flat upon the ground; hold it in both hands, having a distance of about 6 in. between them; keep the left hand firm, and with the right give the shoot a sharp twist; now cover it with 4 in. of earth and tie the free end to an upright stake.

Asparagus beds should be liberally manured. New beds should now be made. Set the plants 6 in. deep. Sow seed now.

Beets and all hardy vegetables (carrots, parsnips, turnips, rutabagas, kohlrabi, spinach, lettuce, herbs, etc.) may now be sown, planted, or transplanted.

Cabbage plants should be set out on heavily manured ground. Sow seed of Early Summer for a later supply.

Fruits.—If possible, all planting and transplanting of fruit-trees and grape-vines should be finished this month. Pruning should be completed as soon as possible, and preparation made to protect the blossoms of tender fruits next month. Set out strawberry-plants, and during dry weather run the cultivator through all old beds that are at all weedy. It is a good plan, where practicable, to mulch the beds. Here, pine-straw can be had plentifully for the purpose. Examine peach trees for borers. Raspberries and blackberries should be pruned now if the work is not already done. Cuttings of Le Conte pears, Marianna plums, grape-vines, and pomegranates should be put in at once if they have heretofore been forgotten. Root-grafting should be progressing rapidly; this is the best time for this important work.

Onion seeds.—Sow at once, and plant sets as soon as possible.

Peas.—Sow early and late varieties. The late varieties succeed best if sown at this season.

Seasonable work.—This is a good month to obtain canes for staking peas, tomatoes, and beans, hauling manure, making repairs, and examining tools, etc. As the fall crop is harvested, the land should be prepared for another crop. Tile-draining is now is order. Prepare frames to cover with canvas for use next month.

Sweet-potatoes.—A few may be bedded in a frame from which to obtain "draws" for setting out about March 15.

Tomatoes, egg-plants, and peppers.—Sow now on a slight hotbed. When the plants come up, all the air possible should be given during the day. They can be raised without heat, but at this season this plan would better be attempted only by the skillful.

FEBRUARY

Asters, cannas, dahlias, heliotropes, lobelias, petunias, pyrethrums, ricinus, salvias, and verbenas are best sown in a coldframe, where they can have some protection from heavy rain.

Cannas should be transplanted now.

Chrysanthemums must be planted in well-manured ground in a position where water can be readily supplied to them.

Dahlias may be taken up and divided as soon as they begin growth.

Gladiolus and tuberose bulbs should be planted now. It is a good plan to extend the planting through March and April.

Pansies.—Plant them out in the beds where they are to flower.

Routine work.—Sodding should now proceed rapidly. If sods cannot be obtained, the ground may be planted with Bermuda grass. Plant small pieces of the grass a foot apart and water them if the weather is dry, and they will grow rapidly. Hedges should be cleared up and put in good shape. All planting of trees and shrubs should be finished this month. All pruning of trees must be done early in the month. Young roses cannot be set too early in February. They thrive best when planted in fall. Roll the drives and repair them when necessary. The lawn will now require constant care, and the mower should be used before the grass becomes 1-1/2 in. high.

Bush-beans may be planted February 14. On alluvial land it is best to plant them on slight rises as a protection against the rains which sometimes occur toward the end of the month. If frost should threaten just as the beans begin to peep out, cover them an inch deep with the plow or hand cultivator. Sow Early Mohawk first, and at the end of the month sow Early Valentine; a week later sow the wax varieties.

Cabbage,—Sow early varieties, such as Early Summer, Early Drumhead, and Early Flat Dutch. Etampes, Extra Early Express, and Winnigstadt sown for small heads in the order named have done very well in southern Louisiana. The earlier sown plants should be transplanted as often as convenient. Should worms cause trouble, dust the plants with a mixture of one part of pyrethrum powder to six of fine dust.

Carrots, celery, beets, endive, kohlrabi, onion sets, parsley, parsnips, radishes and purple-top turnips must now be sown.

Corn.—Plant Extra Early Adams, Yellow Canada, Stowell Evergreen, and White Flint toward the middle of the month. Sow again a week later, and again after another week. If the first two sowings fail, the last one will give the early crop.

Cucumbers.—Sow and protect with small boxes during cold days and nights, or sow in pots or on sods. Protect the seedlings with sashes or canvas, and plant them out late.

Lettuce.—Sow seeds and transplant the plants on hand. This crop requires a soil well supplied with plant-food.

Melons.—Plant seeds in the same manner as advised for cucumbers.

Okra.—Sow seeds on sods and set out the plants next month.

Peas.—Sow seeds of a number of varieties.

Peppers and egg-plants, if not sown last month, should be sown now. Sow them under glazed sashes and keep close. When the plants appear, give some air, and increase it according to the weather. If a large number of plants is required, the sowing may be delayed until next month. Should flea-beetles trouble you, use plenty of bordeaux on egg-plants.

Potatoes, Irish.—The main crop should be planted as early as possible. Standard varieties are Early Rose, Peerless, and Burbank.

Strawberries.—Run the cultivator through them at least once every three weeks; if they are to be mulched, collect the necessary material. Strawberries planted in February seldom yield much of a crop.

Sweet-potatoes, can now be bedded and protected with canvas, or a row or two of whole tubers may be planted for "draws" and vines.

Tomatoes in frames should be given all the air and light possible and plenty of room if protected with canvas, do not allow the plants to crowd.

MARCH

Beans.—Sow all varieties for a fall crop. As soon as the plants appear, the cultivator must be run through the crop, and kept going as often as necessary.

Corn.—Continue to plant; and we recommend harrowing the patch as soon as the young corn appears. It is generally planted in hills 3 or 4 ft. apart, but better results will be obtained-by planting in drills and leaving one stalk every 12 in.

Cucumbers.—Sow in hills 4 ft. apart, using a liberal quantity of seed to each hill. When the plants come up, thin them to about six in the hill. When the plants begin to get rough leaves, pull out one or two more from each hill. Striped cucumber-beetles are sometimes very numerous, and in order to get a stand of plants it is necessary to go through the patch early every morning and sprinkle all the hills with air-slaked lime.

Egg-plants.—Toward the end of the month the plants growing in frames may be transplanted to their fruiting quarters. Seed may be sown outside after March 15; sooner if a warm and sheltered spot is selected.

Lettuce.—Sow in drills, and when the plants are large enough, thin to a foot apart. If transplanted at this season, they often go to seed.

Okra.—A sowing may be made now, but the main planting would best be deferred until after March 15. Sow in drills 3 ft. apart and thin the plants to 18 in. apart in the drills.

Peas.—Early varieties may be sown; it is now too late to sow tall-growing kinds.

Peppers.—Treat as advised for egg-plants.

Potatoes, Irish.—It is not too late to plant them, but the sooner they are planted the better. The crop planted in February should be harrowed as soon as the shoots begin to come up, and when the rows can be fairly seen, the cultivator must be set to work to keep down weeds and grass.

Squashes.—Plant seed in hills 6 ft. apart. The directions for planting melons may be followed. The same remarks apply to pumpkins and other vegetables of this kind.

Sweet-potatoes.—If slips or vines are at hand, they may be planted late in the month for the earliest tubers. The whole potatoes may be planted on a ridge to yield vines for later planting.

Strawberries.—The mulching of beds or rows should be no longer delayed, if clean and plentiful fruit is wanted.

Tomatoes.—About March 15 the frame plants may go to their fruiting quarters. It is necessary to use some judgment in this matter, as they may be killed or injured by an April frost. Seed may be sown in the open ground for plants for late fruiting. Set the plants 4 ft. apart each way.

APRIL

Alternantheras should go out now.

Annuals of all kinds may still be sown where they are to flower, as they transplant with difficulty at this season.

Coleuses.—Plant out in the beds now. Cuttings root readily, simply requiring to be stuck in.

Beans of all kinds can be planted, limas especially.

Beets.—Make another sowing.

Cabbage plants obtained from spring sowings should be set out as soon as fit. The ground requires to be very rich to carry this crop.

Cucumbers.—These can be sown anywhere now.

Corn.—Make a sowing to yield roasting ears to come in after that sown last month.

Okra.—Sow in drills 3 or 4 ft. apart.

Peas.—Make a sowing of early varieties for the last time.

Squash (bush) and pumpkin may now be planted.

Tomatoes should be got out to their fruiting quarters as early in the month as possible. Let them be set at least 4 ft. apart each way.

MAY

Beans.—Plant a few more bush and pole beans.

Celery may now be started. The bed or box needs plenty of water, and should be shaded from sun.

Lettuce requires careful handling to encourage it to germinate. It is best sown in a box and kept shaded and moist.

Melons, cucumbers, squashes, and pumpkins may be sown.

Radishes.—Sow the yellow and white summer varieties.

Remarks.—It is a constant struggle with weeds throughout this month, and the cultivator and plow are ever going. As the land becomes vacant, sow corn or plant sweet-potatoes—draws or vines. Sow some late Italian cauliflower. Let the orchard have constant and thorough cultivation, and remove all unnecessary growth from the trees as soon as they appear. Be always on the lookout for borers. Keep the strawberries as free of grass and coco, or knob-grass, as possible.

JUNE

Beans.—All kinds may now be sown.

Cauliflower.—Sow the Italian kinds.

Corn.—Make a planting at the beginning of the month and again at the end.

Cucumbers.—Plant a few more hills. The plants at this season must be given plenty of water.

Endive.—Sow, and attend to the tying up of the plants that are of sufficient size.

Melons.—Sow for a succession a few more water and muskmelons.

Okra may still be sown.

Radishes.—Sow the summer varieties now.

Squashes and pumpkins may yet be sown.

Sweet-potato vines may now be set out in quantities.

Tomatoes.—About the middle of the month sow for the fall crop.

JULY

Beans.—Bush and pole beans may be planted towards the end of the month.

Cabbage and cauliflower may now be sown, but the main sowing should be deferred until next month.

Carrots.—A sowing should be made.

Celery.—Sow and transplant what plants there may be on hand.

Cucumbers.—These may be sown now for pickling.

Endive.—Transplant and sow.

Grapes should be kept well tied to trellis, and unnecessary growth removed, so that the wood may have the chance of becoming thoroughly ripened. If the cultivator and plow are not used judiciously, a second growth will be started, which is not desirable.

Lettuce.—The seed requires to be sprouted before being sown, and if the sowing is done on a dry day the drills should be watered.

Radishes.—Sow the summer kinds.

Strawberries.—Keep the beds clean of weeds and grass.

Tomatoes.—Make a sowing early in the month, or, what is much better, take cuttings from plants still in bearing.

Turnips.—Sow a few after a shower towards the end of the month.

Remarks.—Much cannot be done this month, as the weather is hot and dry, but the opportunity should not be lost for killing weeds and preparing for the planting season, which is now rapidly drawing near.

AUGUST

Artichokes.—Seed of the Green Globe may be sown now and large plants obtained by spring. The seed-bed requires to be shaded.

Bush beans, beets, pole beans, carrots, celery, endive, kohlrabi, lettuce, mustard, Black Spanish and Rose China radishes, parsley, turnips, rutabagas, and salad plants of all kinds may now be sown. The seed should be sown on small ridges, adaptable to the kind of plants, for level culture is not successful in the vegetable garden in this section.

Broccoli should be more grown, for it is hardier than the cauliflower. Many cannot tell the difference between the two. Sow now.

Cabbages must be sown by the middle of the month. Make the ground very rich and shade the seed-bed, keeping it moist during the whole of the time.

Cauliflower should also be sown.

Potatoes, Irish, should be planted by the middle of the month, if possible. Plant only those that have sprouted, and instead of planting on top of the ridge set in the furrow and cover 2 in. deep; as the potatoes grow, work more soil down to them.

Salsify.—Sow now or early next month.

Shallots.—Plant them now.

Squash.—Bush kinds may be planted now at any time.

Sweet-potatoes.—Vines may still be set out, with prospects of harvesting a fair crop.

Tomatoes.—If short of plants, cut off good-sized limbs from bearing plants and plant them deep. Keep them moist, and they will root in a few days. Do this just before it rains.

SEPTEMBER

Annuals of the hardy class may be sown this month: the following list will assist in making a selection: Calliopsis, candytuft, calendulas, canterbury bells, columbine, corn-flower, daisies, forget-me-nots, gaillardia, godetia, larkspur, Limnanthes Douglasii, mignonette, pansies, Phlox Drummondii, primroses, poppies of all kinds, Saponaria Calabrica, Silene pendula, sweet williams, and sweet peas.

Bulbs.—Study the catalogues and make out your wants, for it is nearing planting time.

Lilies.—If success is required of the St. Joseph's or Virgin lily (L. candidum), it must be planted right away.

Perennials and biennials should be sown early this month. They have two good growing months ahead of them yet to make considerable progress. The seed-bed will require shade during the middle of the day until the young plants come up; frequent weedings will be required, as coco has not yet quit growing, and winter weeds are now putting in an appearance.

Remarks.—All plants used for salad purposes may be sown this month. The ground between the rows of growing crops should be kept in a fine, friable condition. Vegetable seeds of all kinds should always be sown on slight ridges on all but very sandy soils. If the seed is sown on a level bed, as practiced at the North, the ground will become as hard as a turnpike road should a heavy rain occur; and should this shower come along before the plants are up, a crust a quarter of an inch deep will be formed, and the plants will never see daylight. Sown on a ridge they come all right, as the water gradually drains away, leaving the top of the ridge loose and soft.

OCTOBER

All spring flower seeds should be sown in boxes or trays in the conservatory, and all spring bulbs should be planted. The hyacinth, narcissus, tulip and anemone, ranunculus and various lily bulbs, will bloom in good season planted at this time. The bedding plants should be carefully watched, so that any attack of aphis may be treated immediately. Sweet peas may be planted the first of this month, although they are commonly sown in September. A rich spot should be selected for them. This is the time to make the new lawn. The soil should be thoroughly stirred and well pulverized, mixing in a good dressing of commercial fertilizer, or, if one prefers it, a mixture which may be made at home, consisting of cotton-seed meal, acid phosphate, and sulfate of potash, at the rate of 1000 lb., 300 lb., and 100 lb. respectively, per acre. A rich, well-rotted compost, as a top dressing, would also be highly beneficial. Roses pruned late in September or early this month will produce fine winter blooms.

In the garden this is a busy month; some of the winter vegetables are growing, and others should be sown. The bud artichokes should be separated and set fully 3 ft. apart. Onions may still be sown in the early part of the month, and shallots should be divided and set. Some beans may be risked, and English peas sown for winter crop. A few cauliflowers may be tried and cucumbers planted in pots for the hotbeds next month. The following vegetables should be sown: Carrots, corn salad, chervil, Brussels sprouts, broccoli, beets, endive, kohlrabi, kale, lettuce, leeks, mustard, parsley, parsnip, radish, roquette, spinach, Swiss chard, salsify. Some cabbage and a few cauliflowers should be added to the list. Turnips should be sown for succession every two weeks until April or May. The celery should be kept growing and banking up commenced.

This is an excellent time to plant the new strawberry bed. Make the bed rich with well-rotted manure and select good, healthy sets. The Michel's Early and Cloud are probably the most popular varieties for general planting, and should be set in alternating rows.

NOVEMBER

Flower seeds and bulbs may be planted this month of the same varieties as in October. Cuttings of all the herbaceous plants should be made and potted, for use in the house and for the borders next season. The coldframes should also be put in order. Some of the bulbs for winter forcing should be selected and potted. One of the best Louisiana gardeners recommends the following treatment: Select good, strong bulbs and plant them in rich, light soil, in 5-in. pots, covering them about half an inch. Water well and bury the pots 6 or 8 in. deep in the ground, leaving them there about five weeks, when the bulbs will be found to be well rooted. From this time gradually expose to the light, and they will soon put forth blooms.

The same vegetables may be sown as for October, and the late cabbage seed planted. The Flat Dutch and Drumhead strains are prime favorites. New sowings of peas, turnips, mustard, and radishes should be made, and the hotbeds prepared and set out to cucumbers. Too much care cannot be taken that the manure should be in the best condition possible, so that a good supply of heat may be depended upon. The cucumbers planted last month will be ready now for setting in the hotbeds, and a winter crop forced.

Orchard and vineyard planting.—This is the time to prepare land. That on which a late crop of cowpeas has grown is well suited for the purpose, and should be plowed deeply and well worked over. Towards the last of the month it should be cultivated again, in order to be ready for the trees next month.

DECEMBER

Lawns and yards need watching this month, and attention should be paid to the old leaves and fall rubbish, which makes the yard look untidy. A good place for the leaves is the compost heap. Hedges should be put in shape and the surface drains kept open. Shrubs and roses should be pruned for an early supply of flowers. The Camellia Japonicas are now in bloom, and care should be taken that the small branches are not torn off, instead of being cut properly. Many of these most beautiful of southern ornamental trees have been ruined by careless plucking of flowers.

Garden and orchard.—Many of the fall vegetables may be sown this month and others sown for a succession. Peas, spinach, roquette, radishes, lettuce, endive, and some Early York cabbage should also be sown. In the old spent hotbeds, tomatoes, peppers, and egg-plants may be started; there will not be enough heat to hurry them, and good, strong stocky plants will be secured if care is taken. Irish potatoes may be risked, should there be a favorable time for planting during the latter part of the month. Usually they are planted in January. The chances are about equal should they be planted late this month. Nuts of all kinds, both for budding and otherwise, should be planted. Some of the best Louisiana pecans are said to come true from seed, and may be sown where they are intended to grow.



INDEX

The flowering annuals, being mostly in alphabetical list, are not indexed here.

Abelia grandiflora, abies species, Abobra viridiflora, abutilons, acacia, rose, acalypha, acer, species, Achillea Ptarmica, achyranthes, aconites, actinidia, adiantums, adlumia, Adonis vernalis, aesculus species, African lily, agapanthus, agave, Agrostemma Coronaria, Agrostis nebulosa, ailanthus, shoots of, Ajuga reptans, akebia, alder, alliums, almond, alpine plants, alternanthera, Althaea frutex, Althaea rosea, Alyssum saxatile, amarantus, amaryllis, Amelanchier Canadensis, ammoniacal carbonate of copper, ampelopsis species, andromeda, anemone, anise, anise-tree, annuals for bedding, annuals that bloom after frost, annuals by color, annuals, cultivation of, annuals listed by height, annuals for ribbon-beds, annuals, distances apart, Anthemis coronaria, Anthemis Kelwayi, Anthemis tinctoria, Antigonon leptopus, aphis, Apios tuberosa, apple, culture of, apple-maggot, apple-scab, apricot, culture of, aquarium, aquatic plants, aquilegias, Arabis albida, Arabis alpina, Aralia Sieboldii, araucaria, arborvitae, Arbutus Unedo, architect's garden, ardisia, aristolochia, Arnebia echioides, arsenate of lead formula, artemisias, Artemisia Stelleriana, artichoke, Aruncus Sylvester, Arundo Donax, Asclepias tuberosa, ashes, ash, mountain, ash trees, asparagus, asparagus beetle, Asparagus medeoloides, Asparagus plumosus and tenuissimus, asparagus rust, Asparagus Sprengeri, aspen, asperula, aspidistra, asters, native, Astilbe Japonica, Aubrietia deltoidea, aucuba, auricula, azalea, culture of, azalea species,

Baccharis halimifolia, Bacterium tumefaciens, balm, bamboos, Baptisia tinctoria, basil, baskets, hanging, basswood, bay-tree, bean, bedding, beech, beet, begonias, belladonna lily, Bellis perennis, Benzoin odoriferum, Berberis Aquifolium, Berberis Japonica, Berberis Thunbergii, Berberis vulgaris, Bermuda buttercup, Bermuda-grass, betula species, bignonia species, billbergia, biota, birds, bitternut, bitter-sweet, bitter-sweet, false, blackberries, laying down, blackberry, culture of, blackberry, disease of, blackberry insects, black-rot, bladder nut, bleeding-heart, blister-mite, blood as fertilizer, bloodroot, blue beech, blue-grass, Bocconia cordata, bog plants, bolting trees, boltonias, boneblack, bone, ground, bordeaux mixture, borders, making, borers, bougainvillea, Boussingaultia baselloides, bouvardia, box, box-elder, boxthorn, bridge-grafting, Bridgeman, mentioned, broccoli, Bromus brizaeformis, brooks, treatment of, broom, brussels sprouts, buckthorn, budding, bud-moth, buffalo berry, Buist, mentioned, bulbocodium, bulbs, culture of, bulbs in window-garden, burdock, ornamental, Burnette, F. H., quoted, burning bush, button-bush, buttercups, tuberous, butternut, buttonwood, Buxus sempervirens,

cabbage, culture, cabbage, storing, cabbage diseases, cabbage insects, cabbage maggots, cactus, caladium, calceolaria, calendars, calla, Calla palustris, Callicarpa Americana, callirrhoe, Calycanthus floridus, camassia, camellias, campanulas, candytuft, perennial, canker-worm, cannas, capsicum, Capsicum frutescens, caragana species, caraway, carbolic acid emulsion, carbonate of copper, cardinal flower, cardiospermum, carex for ground cover, carnation rust, carnations, carpet-bedding, mentioned, carpet-beds described, Carpinus Americana, carrot, carya species, Caryopteris Mastacanthus, caryota, case-bearers, Cassia Marilandica, castanea species, catalpa species, catnip, cats, cat-tail, cauliflower, cauliflower diseases, cauliflower insects, ceanothus, cedar, cedrus species, Celastrus scandens, celastrus species, celeriac, celery, cellared stock, cellars, Celtis occidentalis, Centrosema Virginiana, century plants, cephalanthus, cephalotaxus, Cercidiphyllum Japonicum, Cercis Canadensis, cereus, chafer, rose, chamaecyparis species, chamaerops, chamomile, chard, cherry, culture, cherry diseases, cherry, ornamental, cherry trees, shapes of, chervil, chestnut, culture of, chestnut disease, chickens in gardens, chickory, Chilopsis linearis, China-berry, Chinese sacred lily, chinquapin, Chionanthus Virginica, chionodoxa, chrysanthemums, chrysanthemums, hardy, chrysanthemum disease, Chrysanthemum frutescens, chrysanthemum protection, Chrysanthemum uliginosum, cineraria, Cineraria maritima, cinnamon vine, cinquefoil, Citrus trifoliata, cives, Cladrastis tinctoria, clary, Claytonia Virginica, clematis, Clethra alnifolia, Cleyera Japonica, climbing plants, clothes-post, club-root, Cobbett, mentioned, cobnuts, Coboea scandens, Coccinea Indica, Cocos Weddelliana, Codiaeum, Codlin-moth, Coffee tree, Coix Lachryma, colchicum, coldframes, cold storage, coleus, collards, colocasia, coltsfoot for banks, columbines, Colutea arborescens, comfrey, compass plant, conifers, discussion on, conservation of moisture, Convallaria majalis, Convolvulus Japonicus and Sepium, corchorus, coreopsis species, coriander, corn, sweet, corn salad, Cornus Baileyi, Cornus Mas, cornus species, corrosive sublimate for scab, Corydalis lutea, Corydalis nobilis, corylus species, costmary, cotoneaster, cottonwood, cowpea, coxcomb for bedding, crab cactus, crab trees, cranberry, crape myrtle, crataegus species, cress, crocus, crocus, fall blooming, Crosby, quoted, croton, crown-galls, crown imperial, cryptomeria, cucumber, cucumber diseases, cucumber insects, Cucumis Anguria, Cucumis foetidissima (perennius), Cucumis species, cucurbit insects, cultivating, cultivators, Cuphea, cupressus species, curbing, curculio, currant, currant, flowering, currant, Indian, currant diseases, currant-worm, cuttings, cut-worms, cycas, cyclamen, Cydonia Japonica, Cydonia Maulei, Cypress, bald,

daffodil, dahlia, Dahlia arborea or excelsa, daisy, dandelion, daphnes, day-lily, delphiniums, Desmodium Canadense, desmodium species, Deutzia gracilis, deutzia species, dewberry, culture of, dewberry for banks, dewberry insects, dianthus, dibbers, Dicentra spectabilis, Dictamnus Fraxinella, diervillas, dill, dioscorea species, Dirca palustris, diseases of plants, ditching, dockmackie, Dodecatheon Meadia, dogs and gardens, dog-tooth violet, dogwoods, Dolichos Japonicus, dolichos, species, Donnell, Webb, quoted, doronicum, doucin stocks, Dracaena fragrans, drainage of land, drainage of walks, drives and walks, dry bouquets, Duggar, on mushrooms, dutchman's pipe, dwarf fruit-trees,

Easter lily, echeveria, Echinocystis lobata, egg-plant, Egyptian lily, elaeagnus species, elecampane, elm, elm-leaf beetle, emulsion, carbolic acid; kerosene, endive, enemies of plants, enriching the land, Epimedium rubrum, epiphyllum, Erianthus Ravennae, Erigeron speciosus, Eulalia, Euonymus, climbing, Euonymus species, Euphorbia, evergreens, discussion on, everlastings, exochorda,

fagus species, Falconer, Wm., quoted, Farfugium grande, Fatsia Japonica and F. papyrifera, fennel, ferns, fertilizing land, Fessenden, mentioned, Festuca glauca, fetter bush, Ficus elastica, Ficus repens, fig, filberts, fir, flame flower, Fletcher, S.W., quoted, flower-garden in landscape, foliage in landscapes, forcing-hill, forcing plants, forget-me-nots, formal gardens, formalin for scab, formal trees, formulas for fungicides; insecticides, Forsythia suspensa; viridissima, frames, fraxinus species, freesia, fringe tree, fritillary, fruit-buds, fruits, culture of, fuchsia, fumigating, fumitory, fungi and insects, fungicides, funkia,

gaillardia, perennial, gardenia, Gardiner Hepburn, mentioned, garlic, gas plant, gathering fruit, Gelsemium sempervirens, Genista tinctoria, geranium, gherkin, ginkgo girdled trees gladiolus Gleditschia tricanthos gloxinia Goff device goldenglow golden-rods gooseberry gooseberry disease goumi gourds, ornamental grading grafting grafting-wax grape, culture of grape diseases grapery grapes for ornament grasses, ornamental grass for lawns greenbrier greens Greiver, T. quoted Grevillea robusta ground-ivy ground-nut grub, white guards for trees gum tree gunnera gutters Gymnocladus Canadensis Gypsophila paniculata

Halesia tetraptera Hamamelis Virginiana handling the laud handling the plants hand-box hand tools hand-weeders hanging baskets harebells harrows hazels Hedera Helix hedges heeling-in Helenium autumnale helianthus species hellebore for insects hemerocallis species hemlock Henderson, mentioned hepaticas herbaceous perennials Heuchera sanguinea Hibiscus Moscheutos Hibiscus Rosa-Sinensis Hibiscus Syriacus hickories Hicks, Edward, quoted hicoria species hippeastrum hitching to trees hoes hollies hollyhock hollyhock rust honey locust honeysuckles Hop hop-tree horehound hornbeam horseradish hotbeds house plants howea hoya Humulus Lupulus Hunn, C.E., quoted hyacinth hydrangea hydrocyanic acid gas hypericum species hyssop

Iberis sempervirens ilex species Illicium anisatum immediate effect immortelles inarching Indian currant insecticides insects, remedies for insects and fungi Inula Helenium Ipomoea pandurata Ipomoea Quamoclit iris iron-wood Isolepis gracilis ivy, Boston, Japanese ivy, parlor ivy, true

jasmines jasminum species Jerusalem artichoke jessamine jonquil Judas tree juglans species June-grass juniper species

kainit kale Kalmia latifolia katsura-tree keeping fruit Kenilworth ivy kentia kerosene emulsion kerria kitchen-garden Kniphofia aloides Koelreuteria paniculata kudzu vine

labels lady-birds lagenaria Lagerstroemia Indica land, handling larch larix species latania Lathyrus latifolius laurel, cherry laurel, great laurel, mountain laurel, true Laurus nobilis lavender lawn, making lawns, treatment leaf cuttings leatherwood leek Leiophyllum buxifolium lespedeza species lettuce lettuce disease Liatris spicata Libocedrus decurrens ligustrum species lilac species liliums lily-of-the-valley lima beans lime and sulfur wash Linaria Cymbalaria linden Lindera Benzoin Linum perenne Liquidambar styraciflua Liriodendron Tulipifera live-oak liver of sulfur liver-leaf lizard's tail Lobelia cardinalis lobster cactus locust locust, honey Lombardy poplar Long, E.A., quoted Lonicera Halliana lonicera species loose-strife lotus lovage luffa Lychnis alpina Lychnis Chalcedonica Lychnis Coronaria Lychnis Viscaria Lycium Chinense lycoris Lysimachia clethroides Lysimachia nummularia Lythrum Salicaria

madeira vine maggots of cabbage magnolias Mahernia odorata mahonia maidenhair tree maize, striped mallow, rose M'Mahon, mentioned manure for hotbeds maples marguerite carnations marguerite chrysanthemum marjoram markers marshplants Mathews, Schuyler, picture by matrimony vine mats, making matthiolas Melia Azederach melon melon disease melon insects Menispermum Canadense Mertensia Virginica Mesembryanthemum mice injury mignonette mignonette vine mikania miscanthus miscible oils mock orange mock orange of South moisture, saving moles Momordica Monarda didyma moneywort (see lysimachia) Monterey cypress monthly advice moon-flower moonseed morning-glory, perennial morus species mounding-up trees mountain ash mountain laurel moving large trees muck Mueune utilis Muehlenbeckia mulberry mulberry, French mulching plants muriate of potash Musa Ensete mushrooms muskmelon muskmelon disease mustard myosotis myriophyllum myrtle, running myrtle, true Myrtus communis

narcissus negundo Nepeta Glechoma Nephrolepis exaltata Nettle tree Nicotiana night-blooming cereus nine-bark nitrate of soda nitrogen nozzles nuts Nyssa sylvatica

oaks odd plants oenothera Missouriensis oil insecticides okra old-fashioned gardens Olea fragrans oleander oleaster onion opuntia orange, culture of Orontium aquaticum osage orange osiers Osmanthus fragrans Ostrya Virginica oxalis oxalis for window-gardens Oxalis tropaeoloides Oxydendrum arboreum oyster plant oyster-shell scale

paeonia see: peony palmettoes palms. palms for South. pampas-grass. pandanus. Panicum virgatum. pansy, culture of. papavers. paper-white narcissus. papyrus. Paradisea Liliastrum. paradise stocks. paris green formula. parrot's feather. parsley. parsnip. Passiflora incarnata. passiflora species. paulownia. pavia. pea. peach, culture of. peach diseases. pear, culture of. pear diseases. pear insects. pea-trees. pecan. pelargonium. Pelargonium peltatum. Peltandra undulata. pennisetum. pennyroyal. pentstemon. peony. peppermint. pepperidge. pepper, red. perennials, cultivation of. Periploca Graeca. periwinkle. Phalaris arundinacea. Phaseolus multiflorus. phaseolus species. Philadelphus coronarius and grandiflorus. philadelphus species. phillyreas. phlox, culture of. phlox, perennial. Phlox subulata. phoenix. phosphoric acid. photographing landscapes. Phragmites communis. physocarpus. picea species. picture in landscape. pie plant. Pieris floribunda (Andromeda). Pilea arborea. pine. pinks. pinus species. Pittosporum. plane-tree. plan of grounds. plant diseases. plant-lice. platanus species. platycodon grandiflorum. plows. Plumbago Capensis. plum, culture of. plum, diseases. plum, ornamental. Poa compressa; pratensis; trivialis. podocarpus. poinsettia. polemoniums. Polianthes tuberosa. polyanthus. polygonums. pomegranate. poplar. poppy, Iceland. Populus Bolleana. populus species. Populus tremuloides. potash salts. potassium sulfide. potato, culture. potato diseases. potato insects. potato scab. potato vine. Potentilla fruticosa. Potentilla hybrida. pot-herbs. prickly ash. Primula Auricula. Primula cortusoides primulas privets propagating protecting in winter Pruning pruning at transplanting Prunus Caroliniana Prunus Laurocerasius prunus species Pseudotsuga Douglasii psylla Ptelea trifoliata pteris Pueraria Thunbergiana pumpkin pumps pyracantha pyrethrum pyrus, species

quereus species quince, culture of

rabbit injury radish railroad-worm rainfall, saving raspberry, culture of raspberry diseases raspberry insects ravenna grass records of plantation red-bud red pepper red spider red-top removing large trees repairing trees retinosporas rhamnus species rhododendron rhododendron species Rhodotypos kerrioides rhubarb rhubarb, forcing rhubarb for ornament Rhus Cotinus rhus species Rhynchospermum jasminoides Ribes aureum Ribes sanguineum ribes species richardia ricinus rill "improved" Roberts, mentioned robinia species rockeries rollers root-crops root cuttings root-galls Rosa rugosa rosa species Rosa Wichuraiana rose acacia rose, culture of rose diseases rose insects rosemary roses, climbing roses in landscapes rows, to make straight Rubus crataegifolius Rubus fruticosus Rubus laciniatus Rubus odoratus Rubus phoenicolasius Rudbeckia laciniata Rudbeckia maxima Ruscus aculeatus Russelia juncea rutabaga rye-grass

sacaline sage salad plants Salisburia adiantifolia Salix laurifolia salix species salsify salvia, perennial Salvia pratensis Sambucus species Sanguinaria Canadensis San Jose scale Santolina Chamaecyparissus sassafras Saururus cernuus saving of moisture savory. Saxifraga peltata. Saxifraga sarmentosa. Sayers, mentioned. Scabiosa Caucasica. scab on potatoes. scale, San Jose. scarifiers. Schenley park. Schizophragma hydrangeoides. school-grounds. scilla. screens for wind. screen to protect against insects. screw pine. scrubbing trees. scuppernong. sea-kale. sedges for bogs. sedum. seed-beds. seedlings, transplanting. seed-sowing. Selaginella denticulata. sempervivum. Senecio macroglossus and mikanioides. senna, wild. service-tree. shearing. shelter-belts. she-oak. shepherdia species. shrubs, list of. shrubs, pruning. shrubs for the South. Sicyos angulata. silk vine. Simonds, O.C., quoted. Slingerland, quoted. smilax (florists'). smilax species. Smith, H.W., quoted. Smith and Townsend, quoted. smoke-tree. snowball. snow-berry. snowdrop. snowflake. soap insecticides. Socrates. sod-cutter. sodding. soil, handling. soil mulch. Solanum Dulcamara. Solanum jasminoides. solidagos. Sophora Japonica. Sorbus species. sorrel. sorrel-tree. sourwood. South Carolina, rock. sowing the seeds. sparrows, poisoning. Spartium junceum. spearmint. spider, red. spinach. Spiraea Aruncus. spireas. spraying. spring beauty. spruce. spuds. squash. squash insects. squill. stake labels. staphylea species. Statice latifolia. stem cuttings. Sterculia platanifolia. stevia. Stewart, quoted. stink-bug. St. John's wort. stocks. storing of fruits and vegetables. strawberry, culture of. strawberry disease. strawberry tree. streams, treatment of. street trees, repairing. strychnine for sparrows. Stuartia pentagyna. styrax. subsoiling. subtropical gardening, mentioned sulfate of potash sulfide of potassium sulfur as fungicide sumac sunflowers, wild sunken fence surgery swainsona sweet-flag sweet gum sweet-herbs sweet pea, culture of sweet potato Swiss chard symphoricarpos species Symphoricarpus vulgaris syringa syringe

tacsonia tallies tamarack tamarisk (tamarix) tankage tanks for aquatics tansy Tarryer, tools Taxodium distichum taxus species Taylor, A.D., quoted tecoma species tennis-screen tent-caterpillar terracas Thalictrum aquilegifolium Thermopsis, mollis thinning fruit three guardsmen Thuja occidentalis thyme Thymus argenteus tilia species tilling tobacco insecticide tomato tomato disease Townsend and Smith, quoted Trachelospermum jasminoides Tracy's garden plan tradeseantia transplanting young plants; old plants tree guards Trees, lists and discussion trees, moving large tree surgery trenching trichosanthes trilliums trimming Tritoma Usaria Trollis Europieus Tropaeolium peregrinum trowels trumpet creeper tsuga species tuberose tubers, culture of tub-plants, transplanting tulips, culture of tulip tree turnip Tussilago Farfara typhas

Ulmaria Filipendula ulmus species umbrella plant umbrella tree

varnish-tree vegetables, culture of vegetable oyster viburnum species vigna vinca major Vinca minor (see periwinkle, myrtle) vines violet, culture of violet insect violets, fumigating virgilia Virginia creeper Vitex Agnus-Castus vitis species

Walker, E., quoted walks and drives walnut wandering jew. washing trees. water cress. watering hotbeds. watering house plants. watering land. water-lilies. watermelon. wax for grafting. wax-plant. wax-work. weeders. weed-spuds. weeping trees. weigela, kinds. well about a tree. wheel-hoes. Whetzel, quoted. white-fly. white grub. white hellebore. wigandia. willows. willow, species of. windbreaks. wind-flower. window-boxes. window-gardens. winter aconite. winter protection. wires, injury by. wire-vine. wistaria. witch hazel. witloof. wood ashes. woodbine. woodruff. wormwood. wormwood, wild.

Xanthoceras.

Yams, ornamental. yellows. yew. Yucca filamentosa. Yuccas, shrubby.

zamia. Zanthoxylum Americanum. zebra grass. Zizania aquatica.

THE END