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BOX PLEATING—
This is made by turning the first pleat to the left and the next to the right. The same amount of material is required as for side pleating. If the pleats are to be one-half inch deep, the box pleat will be one inch across. Baste with silk thread at the top and bottom, and press on the wrong side. A simple box pleating may be basted through the center and the edges caught together.
DOUBLE OR TRIPLE BOX-PLEATING—
This is made by adding one or more pleats, one on top of the other. Begin by making two or more pleats turning to the left, then the same number turning to the right. Be very accurate, being careful to keep the box pleat the exact width desired. Baste at the top and bottom. This pleating is nearly always used by basting through the center, after having slightly pressed. The top and bottom bastings are then removed. The pleating may be caught together at top and bottom of box pleat, and it is then known as rose pleating.
RADIATING—
This is the most difficult pleating to fashion, but very handsome ornaments are made in this way. A foundation of buckram is usually required to sew the pleats on as they are laid. The two illustrations given will suffice. After these two examples are correctly copied, other models and original designs can be easily made.
FOUNDATIONS OF BUCKRAM—
The foundation for the second is in the shape of a low pyramid made from buckram. Cut a small circle of buckram, slash in three equally distant places from the outer edge to within one-eighth of an inch of the center. Lap a small amount and sew. Three rows or more of pleating may be used on this ornament. An ordinary ornament will require about five yards of inch-wide ribbon. The first row would be placed near the outside edge of the buckram and each pleat sewed as it is laid. The pleating should radiate from the center. To do this, the inside of the pleating will lap more than the outside. The next row will overlap this first row and the same method will be used. The pleating may be tested by holding a ruler on a line between the top and the lower edge of the pleating. The pleats should all be on a straight line between these points. The last or finishing row is the most difficult of all. The pleats at the apex should meet, and pleats at the lower overlapping edge be on a line with the rest of the pleating. A tiny bow or button is sometimes used to finish the top, but it is much handsomer if finished without either bow or button.
POMPONS
Maline pompons make a very pretty ornament for any hat. They may be made perfectly round or elongated like the illustration. Several thicknesses of the material may be cut at one time. The shape of the pieces for the elongated pompon would be cut like pattern "a." Each piece is folded lengthwise of the material, and this fold is fastened to a wire which has been previously wound with maline. The edges of these pieces are left raw, and enough are used to make the pompon appear quite compact.
RIBBON ROSETTES
There are many different kinds of rosettes made from ribbon. Sometimes several loops of ribbon are made very close together and wound with thread as they are gathered. A very pretty rosette is made of narrow ribbon one-quarter of an inch wide. Many loops three inches long or more of this width ribbon may be fastened to a small piece of buckram. A knot placed at the end of each loop adds to its attractiveness.
ROSETTES FROM OLD PLUMES—
An old plume may be used to make trimming for a hat by cutting it from the quill with a very sharp knife or razor blade, retaining a small portion of the quill which will be sufficient to hold the feathers together. This should be sewed onto a fine wire, and it may then be wound into a rosette. A small flower placed in the center is a pleasing addition.
CHAPTER VIII
HAND-MADE FLOWERS
FLOWERS
MATERIAL REQUIRED:
Tie wire, green Gum tissue, brown and green Cotton batting Milliner's glue Yellow stamens Dark green tissue paper
Flowers may be made from almost any fabric—satin, velvet, georgette, maline, ribbon, soft leather, oilcloth, yarn, and chenille. A scrapbag for odds and ends should always be kept for small pieces of materials. Any piece two inches square may be used for flowers or fruits. Such a bag of pieces will prove a veritable gold mine to use in making flowers and fruit trimmings. Each year brings out novelties in trimmings, but hand-made flowers are always worn more or less on hats, gowns, suits, and muffs. They are especially beautiful on evening gowns. A generous number of the best examples are given here with illustrations.
To prepare the petals of any flower is not difficult, but to arrange them is another matter. Study the face of any blossom which you are making and try to make it look as natural as possible. Pinning the petals in place before sewing them is of great value, otherwise they are apt to slip back on the stem as they are being sewed.
AMERICAN BEAUTY ROSE—
This rose may be made of silk or satin; it may have as many petals as desired. Each petal is cut from a piece of folded material like the diagram (1). It is highly important that the folded edge be on a true bias. Begin the rose by cutting three petals like the illustration, with the bias edge one and one-half inches long. Run a gathering thread one-eighth of an inch from the curved edge, leaving a thread one inch long so that the petal may be adjusted as it is pinned in place. Make a loop one inch long on the end of a piece of wire six inches long. Cover this loop with a small circle of the material like the rose. It is sometimes found to be advantageous to fill this circle with cotton to make a soft center for the rose.
For an ordinary-sized rose there should be eighteen petals. The first three are already described as having a one and one-half-inch bias. The next larger in size should have a two-inch bias and be correspondingly wider; the next five should have a two and one-half-inch bias, and the next five a three-inch bias. The three small petals should be arranged around the covered loop of wire and pinned in place before sewing. Sew securely. Each row, as it is arranged according to size, should be pinned in place and scrutinized carefully to see that it is placed effectively. Each row should be placed a little higher than the preceding one. See that the face of the flower looks as nearly like a real rose as possible, allowing the back to look as it will.
With a little experience one soon becomes efficient and learns how to adjust the different materials. Some materials being more pliable than others, the shape of the petals may be changed slightly to meet the need. The back of the rose may be finished by adding a sufficient number of green leaves taken from some discarded flower or bought for the purpose. A small green cup is also added to finish the base; these may be bought at ribbon counters. The bud used with this rose may be made by using the three smallest petals. Some green foliage must also be used with this rose and the stem bound with a narrow gray-green ribbon, or with gum tissue which should be warmed before using. The inside petals may be of a darker shade than the outside petals.
RIBBON ROSE—
To make a medium-sized ribbon rose requires two yards of satin ribbon two inches wide. There are several different methods of making the center for this rose. A simple center for this rose may be made from a piece of the ribbon, four inches long. Fold this in half. Sew the selvages together along one side. Turn and fill with cotton around which has been wound the end of a six-inch piece of frame wire. A little rose-scented sachet powder may be sprinkled on this cotton to add perfume to the blossom. Gather the satin down close to the wire after rounding the corners at the lower edges. Two yards should make this center and eighteen petals. More may be added or fewer may be used. For the first row cut three lengths three inches long; the second row, five lengths three and one-half inches long; third row, five lengths four inches long; fourth row five lengths four and one-half inches long. Each petal is finished the same before it is sewed in place Fold the two ends together, turn each corner of the folded end down diagonally and pin in place. Now raise the end on the back of the petal and catch the corners down with a few small stitches. Replace the end and gather the raw edges together, but do not draw up close. Prepare all of the petals in the same way before beginning to sew them to the center. Sometimes a tiny bit of cotton is placed inside each petal to make the rose look larger. When all the petals are finished, begin the rose by adding the three smallest petals first. Pin in place around the center, wrapping them closely around it and letting them extend about one-eighth of an inch above the point. Add the next row, pinning each petal in place before sewing. Place each succeeding row one-eighth of an inch above the preceding one. Watch the face of the blossom carefully and see that it looks as natural as possible. The back of the blossom will be covered when finished, either with a few old rose leaves and a rose cup, or points of green ribbon sewed to resemble leaves. A rubber stem may be bought to slip over the wire on which the rose is sewed, or the wire may be wound with green floss, baby ribbon, green tissue paper, or gum tissue. If the rose is to be full blown, it would be much better to make the center of yellow stamens.
WILD ROSE OF SILK—
The petals for the wild rose may be cut from the same pattern as for the first rose given. This same pattern is used for many different flowers—the wild rose, apple blossom, sweet pea, and for foliage.
For the wild rose use the size having the two-inch bias. Gather one-eighth of an inch from the curved edge, draw down tight and fasten the thread off. This rose requires five petals, and will look more natural if two of the petals are of a darker shade than the other three. For the center wrap a piece of tie wire around several yellow rose stamens which may be bought at a millinery store, leaving the ends of wire five or six inches long. Arrange the petals flat around this center and sew in place. The petals should lie out flat, or nearly so. A bud for this rose is made by folding a petal together after having gathered it. The bud may be effectively finished by using two leaves of foliage, placing one on either side, partially covering the bud and then finishing with the wire or a small green rose cup. To finish with wire, make a loop in the center of a ten-inch piece of tie wire. To this loop sew the bud. Twist the wire several times for an inch below the bud, then turn one end of the wire back and twist it around the stem until the bud is reached. Wind it several times over the base of the bud, draw it tight and see that the wire is close together. This will make a finish for the bud.
FOLIAGE—
The rose foliage may be made if desired. Cut the leaves from green satin or velvet, or color them green with water-color if a light-colored material must be used. After cutting the pieces in the shape of rose leaves (it will require two pieces for each leaf), lay one wrong side up, cover with milliner's glue. Lay on the center of this a piece of tie wire long enough for the stem. Place another leaf on this and press together. When all the leaves are made after this method, arrange on a long stem or wire, and if wound with brown gum tissue it will look very natural.
SMALL WOUND ROSE OF FABRIC—
Cut from a true bias a strip of material one inch wide and four inches long. Fold lengthwise through the middle. Turn the raw edges in on one end, and gather one-eighth inch from the edge along the raw edges. Draw the thread up to one inch and roll, beginning with the folded end, and sew. A piece of tie wire may be glued inside the fold before gathering, if desired. These little roses may be sewed on a stem or sewed to a shaped piece of buckram which has been covered with silk. It may be in the shape of a buckle or a circle and covered with these little roses in several colors, pink, blue, and mauve. Sewed flat against a crown or on a brim, they would trim a hat effectively.
WIRED ROSE—
This rose, when carefully made, is most beautiful and sells for an exorbitant price. To make the rose as illustrated requires one-quarter of a yard of satin cut on the bias and one-eighth of a yard of velvet cut on the bias. If the velvet is one or more shades darker, the result will be more pleasing.
The rose is fashioned from petals cut like the illustration. The first three petals are cut from dimensions given in the illustration, two inches long and one and three-quarters inches wide. The next five petals should be one-quarter of an inch larger, and each succeeding row of five petals should be one-quarter of an inch larger than the preceding one. The last row of petals is to be made from the velvet. Cut a piece of the tie wire long enough to reach around the outside edge of each petal, plus one and one-half inches. Lay the petals down wrong side up, bend the wire to the shape of the petal, lay the wire close to the edge and turn the raw edge over the wire one-eighth of an inch and glue in place with milliner's glue. Place a light weight on the petals until thoroughly dry.
Begin assembling the flower by first making a center from some of the scraps left from the velvet, or yellow rose stamens may be used; fold several small pieces into bud-like shapes of about one inch in length, sew strongly and fasten on a loop of the wire six inches long. Keep the point where all the petals are joined in as small a circumference as possible. Begin with the three small petals, pleat them at the bottom into as small a space as possible, and sew to the center with the wrong side to the center. After they have been arranged, the edges may be crinkled down somewhat. Add the remaining petals according to their size. The last row of velvet petals is rather pretty if one or more is placed with the right side toward the center.
FLAT PASTED BLOSSOM—
A conventional flower which makes a beautiful trimming may be made from the pattern for the wired rose first given. Cut five petals (of any size required) from velvet, and five the same size from silk or satin. Lay the velvet petals wrong side up and cover with milliner's glue. Lay on this a piece of tie wire one-quarter of an inch from the edge, allowing an extension of ends of the wire at the bottom of the petal. Lay the silk petal on top and press firmly. When dry arrange these five petals around a cluster of yellow stamens, which have been fastened to a loop of tie wire. This blossom should lie out flat when finished. Of course the shape of the petals may be changed in any way desired.
POINSETTIAS—
The petals of this blossom are also pasted to a lining, the poinsettia making a beautiful ornament. While a bright red is extremely lovely, a black poinsettia is equally effective. The petals should be made of velvet and lined with the same color in satin. These petals being narrow, only need a wire through the center. After the petals have been prepared, they should be assembled around a bunch of yellow stamens or knotted baby ribbon.
The foliage is made from green velvet lined with green silk. The accompanying illustration shows the proportion of both the petals of the blossom and the foliage. The stems may be wound with green or brown gum tissue.
POPPIES—
Poppies may be made from ribbon seventeen inches long and two and one-quarter inches wide. Cut two pieces five and one-half inches long. This leaves one piece six inches long. This will make five petals. Cut the ends round on the five and one-half inch pieces, and cut one end of the six-inch piece round. Beginning at the center, close to edge, gather with a small running stitch. Turn in the raw edges and draw the thread sufficiently to make the rounded ends curl over one inch, and fasten off the thread. These two long pieces make four petals. Pleat them very close at the center, sew together, finish the single petal the same and add it to the four petals. Knotted black baby ribbon or yellow stamens or both will make a beautiful center.
MORNING GLORIES—
Cut a circle of paper four inches in diameter. One quarter section of this will be the pattern for a morning glory. The circle may be larger if desired, but the size should depend somewhat upon the material used. These dimensions are for a small blossom made of taffeta silk or organdie. If made of velvet or heavy silk, the pattern should be much larger.
Lap the straight edges one-eighth of an inch in and paste in place. This makes a cone. Cut a piece of tie wire six inches in length, lap one end over several knots of yellow baby ribbon and twist securely. Push the other end of wire through the cone from the inside and draw the knots down into the point. Make a short bend in the wire at the lower point of the blossom on the outside to prevent its slipping down on the wire. The upper edge of the cone may be rolled over a piece of tie wire and pasted if necessary; usually it stays in place without either sewing or pasting. The edge should be stretched slightly. Organdie or taffeta silk will stay rolled into place without the tie wire. Water color is used most effectively on these flowers to make the shading as true to nature as possible. If made of velvet they may be sewed down flat on a hat at the side joining, when a large stamen of twisted ribbon or chenille may be made to cover the joining in the cone.
ORCHID—
This blossom is especially adapted to the gown of the matron, or wherever a touch of lavender is desired. It is effectively combined with violets, or lilies-of-the-valley and maidenhair fern. The petals are made of satin ribbon one and one-quarter inches wide and of the peculiar pinkish lavender orchid shade. There are five petals in all—each calls for seven inches of ribbon. If possible, three of the petals should be one or two shades darker than the other two.
Fold a seven-inch piece of ribbon (one and one-quarter inches wide) in half with the right side out. Cut into shape like the illustration. Stitch a seam along the curved edge one-eighth of an inch from the edge. Twist a very small loop in one end of a piece of seven-inch tie wire and fasten up at folded end of the ribbon. Overhand this wire along the raw edges, turn to the wrong side and sew the wire in with a one-eighth-inch seam on the wrong side. This makes a French seam. Now spread the petal open flat, and push it up on the wire until the petal measures six inches in length. Gather the raw ends and wind them tight to the wire. Finish the other four petals the same way.
NO. 1 PATTERN FOR THE CENTER—
This calls for a piece of velvet ribbon one and one-half inches wide and four inches in length. If possible this ribbon should be darker than the darkest petal, but of course should harmonize. Roll the ends and hem them down. Gather along one edge and draw down close around the looped end of a piece of tie wire in which a bunch of yellow stamens have been fastened. The blossom should be arranged with the three darker petals pointing up at the back of the center and the other two at the front drooping.
NO. 2 PATTERN FOR THE CENTER—
This center is made from a piece of velvet ribbon three and one-half inches long and one and one-quarter inches wide. Fold lengthwise, with the satin side out. At one end sew straight across, making a seam one-eighth of an inch deep and turn. Cut the other end like the diagram and sew this with the velvet side out, leaving a tiny space at the bottom to insert the wire. This now looks something like a "Jack in the Pulpit." Twist a few yellow stamens in the end of a piece of seven-inch tie wire and push the other end down through the little opening left at the lower point and draw the stamens down in as low as desired. Make a small, short loop in the tie wire close to the blossom to prevent its slipping back down on the wire.
Each year there are new developments in flower making, but the principles are the same. If a few are mastered, there is usually very little difficulty experienced in copying others which may appear from year to year. Lovely flowers may be made from a few inches of hat braids which are left over or from wool and raffia, maline or colored nets.
BLOSSOMS OF MALINE OR NET—
These may be made by using the same pattern as for the American Beauty rose, selecting the size required. (See illustration.) Lay a strip of tie wire inside along the bias fold. Gather along the curved edge and draw down tight. This brings the two ends of the tie wire together, and they should be twisted lightly. Arrange four or five leaves around a few yellow stamens. If green tie wire is used, it is not necessary to wind the stems; otherwise brown gum tissue may be wound around the stem. From this pattern many different blossoms may be made, varying it slightly, such as rosebuds, sweet peas, and apple blossoms.
SWEET PEAS—
Cut four petals after the same pattern, making one about one and one-half inches and two one inch, then a small one for the center, or a few knots of baby ribbon may be used for the center. Arrange the petals in a natural-looking blossom.
VIOLETS—
No flower is more popular than the violet, and a cluster of handsome violets make a most acceptable gift at any time.
Violet-colored satin ribbon about one-quarter of an inch in width is used. Begin by tying a knot one inch from the end, tie another one inch from this knot; continue until there are five or six knots one inch apart. In tying, try to keep the satin side of the ribbon out and make as round a knot as possible by pushing the ribbon edges together on the knot. Do not tie too tightly. A little practice is needed, but the blossom is easily made. Hold the first knot between the thumb and finger, bring the third knot up and place with it, then the fifth, and so on, until the knots are all placed—usually three on one side, and two or three on the other. Cut green tie wire six or seven inches long for stems. Wind an inch of the end over the ribbon between these folded knots and twist. Cut the ribbon off pointed, leaving one-half inch end.
Two shades of ribbon may be used if desired. Sometimes a few yellow stamens are fastened in with the wire or a few French knots in yellow added at the center after the blossom is made, but neither is needed and add but little to the beauty of this little blossom. Shape the petals up around the center.
The foliage for this flower can be bought, or made according to directions given elsewhere. A spray of almost any foliage will do. A small rosebud, a morning-glory or an orchid added to a bouquet of violets will make it doubly charming.
DAISIES—
Daisies may be made from one-quarter inch ribbon, using as many petals as desired. Cut the ribbon into two and one-half-inch lengths. Tie a knot in the center. Sew the ends to a small, round piece of buckram. If two rows of petals are used, the second row may be made one-quarter of an inch shorter. The center may be covered with ready-made daisy centers or a few French knots. The stem of wire is tacked to the buckram on the back and may be wound with green floss.
GERANIUMS—
These flowers are made of geranium-colored satin ribbon. Use the same method as in making violets, except that yellow stamens should always be added.
FRUIT
APPLES—
The material required for making apples is cut into a circle of any size desired and from any material. The edge should be turned in one-sixteenth of an inch and gathered all around. Place this over a piece of cotton batting, over which a piece of wire has been twisted, leaving ends long enough for a stem. Add a sufficient amount of cotton to fill the material out well. Draw the thread tight and sew. A stitch may be caught through the center and pulled down, or a little tuft of brown embroidery thread sewed to the center to give a more realistic look. The apple may be tinted with water-color if desired. In that case the entire apple should be moistened first and then the color applied and allowed to dry.
CHERRIES—
These are made from a smaller circle of material than the apple—satin or velvet would make a charming cluster. The method used is the same as for the apple, except that there would be no stitch in the center. They should also be filled until they are hard. Use tie wire for the stems.
PLUMS—
These may be made from a piece of plum-colored material on a true bias, two and one-quarter inches long and one and one-quarter inches wide. Sew the ends together on the wrong side. Turn, gather one end one-eighth of an inch from the edge. Pull the thread up tight and sew. This makes the "blow" end. Turn the lower edge in one-eighth of an inch and gather. Fill with cotton to which a piece of tie wire has been attached and pull close to wire and sew. Add as much cotton as necessary to procure the right shape before finishing.
RAISINS—
These may be made from gathering a folded circle of plum-colored material one-eighth of an inch from the edge, but used without filling with cotton. Sew to the end of looped tie wire and wind the wire with brown gum tissue. Arrange in a cluster. Always warm the tissue before using so that it will adhere.
GRAPES—
These are made the same as cherries, except a cluster would have several sizes. They are beautiful made from black velvet. A cluster of grapes to sew flat to hat may be made by covering different sizes of button molds and arranging them on a hat to look like a cluster.
MOURNING MILLINERY
Hats worn when one is in mourning are nearly always small and made of black crepe with a few folds of white crepe near the face. The covering of crepe is always lined, preferably with sheet wadding to give the soft appearance desired. The trimming is of milliner's folds or flat flowers made of the crepe.[98-1] The mourning veils used may have a simple wide hem sewed down by hand or an applied hem. The applied hem is much the handsomer finish.
APPLIED HEM ON A VEIL—
For a hem three inches wide, cut a strip six inches in width and long enough to reach around the edge of the veil plus three inches for each corner. It takes that much extra length to mitre a corner of a rectangular veil.
Fold this strip lengthwise in the middle and baste with fine running stitches one inch from the fold to hold the fold flat. Measure this strip at the edge of the veil to locate the place where the fold must be mitred at the corners. Cut a V-shaped piece from this fold to within one-quarter of an inch of the fold. Cut through both thicknesses. Sew these raw edges together in a seam one-quarter of an inch deep and the result will be a mitred corner. Each corner should be carefully planned and mitred before sewing to the veil. Next turn both raw edges down toward the inside one-quarter of an inch and baste separately. Slip the edge of the veil between, pin carefully in place, baste and slipstitch the edges to the veil. Both edges may be stitched at the same time. If this work is carefully done, the result more than repays the time spent upon it.
The veil is a very important part of the hat and may be adjusted in any becoming way. It may form part of the covering of the hat, and is then arranged in becoming folds toward the back and allowed to fall to any desired length. It makes a becoming background for the face. Mourning millinery is not used as much as formerly, but those who desire to adhere to the custom will find the style little changed.
FOOTNOTES:
[Footnote 98-1: See chapter on "Flowers."]
CHAPTER IX
REMODELING AND RENOVATING
STRAW SHAPES—
BRIM—Brush well to remove all the dust. If the brim is too wide, a few rows of braid may be removed from the edge, and the edge refinished with one or more rows of ornamental braid of the same color. If it seems necessary to use an edge wire, this last row of braid may be made to cover it, or a bias fold of satin, silk, velvet, or ribbon may be sewed over the wire.
CROWN—When the crown of a straw hat is found to be too low for the present style, the crown may be ripped from the brim, a narrow piece of buckram sewed to the bottom of the crown and then sewed back to the brim. Of course trimming must be planned to cover up this buckram. If the crown is too high, a few rows of braid may be removed at the bottom of the crown, enough to give the desired height.
TO PUT A STRAW HAT INTO SHAPE—
If the general outlines of a straw shape are found to be good, or if it only needs slight reshaping, it can be done at home with satisfactory results. It is really home-blocking by the use of heavy cardboard. A rounded crown can be made flat on top, and a slightly rolling brim can be made into a straight brim by using this method. It is a joy to take an old, discarded, battered straw hat and make it into a fresh-looking and up-to-date hat, a piece of work which any one may well be proud of.
Cut from a piece of heavy cardboard the exact shape and size of which the crown top is to be made. Cut another the exact height of the crown and long enough to fit around the head, allowing the ends to just meet. Sew these pieces of cardboard together which will make a crown the exact shape you wish. Dampen the straw crown sufficiently to make it very pliable and pull it into shape over this cardboard crown. Turn the crown upside down on a flat surface and place a weight in the crown. A flatiron or a small stone jar will make a good weight. Bind the outside firmly and smoothly with a cloth, pin in place, and leave to dry. After it is thoroughly dry, remove the cloth, and before removing it from the block, cover with a coating or two of some good coloring which may be bought for the purpose. This can be procured in several colors, but must be put on with a stiff brush and rubbed in well in order to produce an even shade.
If the brim is rolling and is to be made flat, dampen it thoroughly, press it down flat on a smooth surface, and cover with weights; leave until dry, when a few coats of coloring may be applied. If the brim is separate from the crown, the hat may be completely changed by slipping the brim down over the crown, leaving it an inch or so from the bottom on one side or in the back, making a bandeau which lends itself to trimming of flowers, ribbons, or malines. In this case the bottom of the crown would require a wire sewed on at the edge to keep it in shape. If a high luster is desired, a coating of shellac may be applied the last thing before trimming.
LIGHT STRAW HATS—
Light straw hats may be cleaned by the use of soap and water or gasoline. If the hat is in need of bleaching, sulphur and water may be used, or a commercial bleaching fluid may be bought all ready to use according to printed directions. Two or three coatings of coloring will change the color. Pleasing results are sometimes obtained by using two different colors, one over the other. This, of course, requires experience and should be tried out before using on a hat.
WHEN STRAW IS TO BE RE-SEWED—
Rip carefully from the foundation; brush and press carefully. Some straw will not stand dampening, so try out a small piece first. Place it on a heavily-padded board and press on the wrong side.
PANAMA HATS—
It is much more satisfactory to send a Panama to a good professional cleaner. A Panama hat may be made less severe-looking by the addition of an underfacing on the brim of some sheer material, such as georgette or crepe de chine, finished off at the edge over a wire. The facing may be put on top of the brim if desired. The entire crown is sometimes changed by covering it with a figured chiffon drawn down tightly and finished at the bottom with a band and bow of ribbon.
Another change might be made by covering the entire crown with flower petals sewed down flat and intermingled with green leaves. They should then be covered with a layer or more of maline. This is a good way to use up old flowers. The flowers will stand a lot of retouching with color when they are veiled.
OLD BUCKRAM FRAMES—
When a covered buckram shape has become broken and out of shape, remove all the covering. Dampen the frame and press with a hot iron. A roll of cloth or paper must be held in the hand while pressing the crown. A break in buckram is difficult to remove; however, if new material is not available, much may be done with the old. Do not remove the headsize wire unless a pencil mark is made where it is to be sewed.
If the headsize wire is too large or too small, now is the time to change it. If the general shape of the brim is to be changed, remove the edge wire and trim to the required width. If it is to droop or roll, slash the brim from the outer edge to the headsize wire and lap one-quarter of an inch at the edge. Slash in several places if necessary. Sew close to both lapped edges of the buckram and cover with a strip of muslin or crinoline sewed on flat.
If a brim is to be made more flat or flaring, slash and add V-shaped pieces of buckram. If the headsize is entirely too large, this may be remedied by dividing the brim into halves. Remove the headsize wire and the edge wire, cutting through from front to back. Lap and sew; make the headsize wire the required size and sew back on the brim. Trim the outer edge of the brim and add the edge wire. The same thing may be done to the crown. If too large, divide into halves and lap the edges until it is the required size, or a piece of material may be added to make the crown larger. The crown may be lowered by cutting a piece from the base, or raised by adding a piece of heavy material at the base. When a fabric-covered brim is changed it will be found difficult to use the old covering, but it can sometimes be done.
BLOCKING OVER WIRE FRAMES—
If a buckram frame needs changing radically, it may be done by blocking over a wire frame made for the purpose. The wire frame should have six sticks instead of four, and circles not more than one inch apart, shaped as desired. Old or new buckram, neteen, or any coarse material which has been heavily starched, may be used. Wet the fabric thoroughly with warm water.
Block the crown first. Place the material over the crown and pull it down until all the wrinkles are removed, pin closely to the headsize wire all around. When dry, mark with a pencil all around close to the headsize wire, remove from the frame, cut on the pencil mark and sew a headsize wire on the edge. If there are marks of the wire to be removed, hold a cloth on the inside of the crown and press lightly with a hot iron. The brim is managed in the same way. Mark at the headsize, cut off at this point one-half inch inside the mark, and sew a headsize wire on the pencil mark. Mark at the edge wire, cut off at the pencil mark, and finish with edge wire.
NEW BRIMS FOR OLD CROWNS—
If the brim of a hat is past renewing, a new one may be made, or the wire brim from an old hat may be used with a crown of velvet, or any fabric or straw. The wire brim may be re-covered with georgette—an old, half-worn waist will do nicely, using the back or sleeves, or any portions that are not too badly worn. When a heavier crown is used, the edge of a sheer brim should have a fold of material like the crown sewed at the edge, or a row of straw when the crown is of straw braid.
FELT AND BEAVER HATS—
When soiled, clean with gasoline and cornmeal. To restore the gloss, rub the hat with a very fine piece of sandpaper which has been tacked over a small block of wood. Rub with the nap. To complete the process, remove the sandpaper and substitute a piece of velvet. Rub this on a hot iron, then on beeswax. Continue the operation of rubbing the hat with the nap until it is restored to its original freshness. The crown must be packed with cloth before rubbing to keep it solid enough to do satisfactory work. If the brim of a felt or beaver hat needs cutting down at the edge, mark with a piece of chalk where the brim is to be cut. Sew on this line with an unthreaded sewing machine several times, and the felt will be cut through and the edge broken off at this point. This looks much better than when cut with shears or with a knife.
RENOVATION OF HAT COVERINGS AND LININGS—
To freshen velvet and raise the pile, brush well to remove the dust. With the wrong side down, hold it over the spout of a tea-kettle of rapidly boiling water. An assistant is needed to brush it lightly as it is passed back and forth over the steam. The great force of the steam will raise the pile much more quickly than the method of using a damp cloth over a hot iron. If the velvet after steaming is found to be still too imperfect or faded to be used on the hat plain, it may be gathered a half inch apart or more and used either on the crown or the brim, or it may be mirrored by ironing on the right side with a hot iron, always ironing lightly one way, using a sweeping motion. Do not let the iron rest for a second on the material or it will leave a mark.
TO FRESHEN CREPE FOR MOURNING MILLINERY—
Brush the crepe with a fine brush to remove the dust. Clean in gasoline if necessary. Crepe may be made to look like new if pinned down smoothly and evenly on a padded surface, a damp cloth placed over it, then a hot iron passed over it without touching it, but near enough so that a slight amount of steam will dampen the crepe. Remove the cloth and allow the crepe to dry in place. Crepe becomes shabby-looking quickly if not given the best of care.
CLEANING, CURLING, AND TINTING FEATHERS—
To clean, immerse the feather in gasoline to which has been added a few spoonfuls of cornmeal. Draw the feather through the hands several times until it is clean; rinse in clear gasoline and shake in the fresh air till dry. A very light-colored or white feather may be tinted by dissolving some oil paint in the gasoline used for rinsing.
To curl, draw the flues, a very few at a time, over a blunt knife. A plume is rather difficult to sew on a hat and produce the desired effect. The end of the quill may be sewed very firmly to the hat, while the tip of the plume should not be sewed close to the hat, otherwise it will look stiff.
RIBBONS—
If soiled, they may be cleaned in gasoline or soap and water, using a brush. Do not rub or wring. Hang up to drip dry, or wind tightly around a bottle and leave to dry. Do not press until after twenty-four hours, if cleaned in gasoline. To produce extra stiffness, rinse in a weak solution of sugar and water. It is also very easy to change the color of ribbons by using any of the commercial cold dyes.
FLOWERS—
If flowers are faded, they may be touched up with water-color. If they are pink, rouge may be used effectively. If the edges are much frayed, trim them slightly with the shears. Green leaves may be dipped in hot paraffine to restore their gloss, or pressed with a warm iron without paraffine. Even very imperfect flowers may be made to look well if veiled with maline or georgette.
QUILLS—
Quills are sometimes improved by passing them between the thumb and finger on which a small amount of vaseline or oil has been placed. A quill may be curved by holding it over the spout of a tea-kettle of rapidly boiling water. Place a dull knife on the underside and press the quill hard enough to make a sharp dent. Do this every half inch. If the quill is sufficiently steamed this may be accomplished easily, and the result is permanent.
WINGS—
Loose feathers should be glued in place and the wing covered with maline or a hair net of the same color. Wings may be covered with a coat of shellac which stiffens them and gives them a very glossy look.
LACE—
Most laces may be washed in warm, soapy water. Press gently in the hands—do not rub. Press the water out after having rinsed the lace well in warm water. Shake gently and pin down smoothly on a sheet, being careful to stretch and pin each scallop in place. Allow it to dry. If necessary press slightly with a warm iron on the wrong side. Some laces are greatly improved by pressing.
MALINES—
Malines may be used to good advantage, even if parts are badly worn and faded. Place a thin, damp cloth over them and press with a warm iron. Allow to dry thoroughly before removing from the ironing-board.
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Transcriber's note
The following typographical errors were corrected.
Page Change 18 TO COVER SIDE CROWN changed to TO COVER SIDE CROWN— 108 CREPE changed to CREPE 110 WINGS changed to WINGS—
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