Anger itself, from its advantageous position in the Straits of Sunda, with an enterprising population, might become a place of considerable importance, and rival in time its neighbor, Sincapore, in the Straits of Malacca. It is now the stopping place for nearly every vessel passing through these Straits for water and provisions, and there is nothing to prevent its becoming an emporium for the products of this fertile Island, excepting the short-sighted policy of the Dutch, who wishing to centre all the trade at Batavia, force the merchantmen to a sickly city for the pepper, coffee, rice, &c., raised upon it. Nothing is allowed to be exported from Anger, and when we wished to procure some coffee for use on board ship, found it only could be obtained in an underhand manner. If the English when they took possession of the island, had but made a settlement and retained this point, they would have found it greatly to their advantage, even more profitable than Sincapore.



CHAPTER XXVI.

Pass through Sunda Strait—H. B. M. S. Rattler—Catch the Trades—A learned opinion on Diaries—Extracts from Diary—Isle of France—Its Romance—Bourbon—Mauritius— Cape of Good Hope—Description—Trouble in getting in— Table Bay and Mountain.

In passing through the Straits, after leaving Anger, H. B. M. screw propeller "Rattler" went up on her way to China. Did not envy her officers, nor feel at all inclined to exchange with them.

Ran out of the Straits with a fine leading wind, taking our departure from Java-Head at early daylight on the morning of the 19th of March; struck the "trades" at once, and held them to the 28th, when had made 1550 miles.

The distance run, by log, from Hong-Kong to Anger, was just nineteen hundred forty-five and three-fourth miles, making us at that time exactly three thousand four hundred and ninety-six on our way home. This was done in a little over thirty days, including stoppage.

The learned Baron of Verulam has said: "It is a strange thing in sea voyages, when there is nothing to be seen but sea and sky, that men should make diaries, and omit them in land travel, as if chance were fitter to be registered than observation." Now I have made my diary, both at sea and on shore, and copy from it:

At Sea, Sunday, April 11th, 1852.—Have now run down to the southward of the Island of Madagascar, and are in the same longitude, having passed the Isle of France, or the "Mauritius," and Bourbon safely. Hurricanes prevail off these islands, but we have only had one small blow. Last Sunday caught a shark, about seven feet and a half long. Some of the men ate part of him.

Beautiful "Isle of France," degraded into Mauritius by the Dutch in honor of their Stadtholder Maurice, but made celebrated by the pen of Bernardin St. Pierre, as the scene of the life, loves and "fate of Paul and Virginia, and consecrated by their tomb!" Creative power of genius, thus to constitute an insignificant island, far, far away amongst the distant waves of the Indian Ocean, a shrine to which pilgrims shall resort in honor of true and young and ill-starred love!

Bourbon, too, the Island of Reunion—happy nomenclature—has also pleasant associations connected with its name.

Madagascar, however, from its importance, is worthy of a passing notice. It is one of the largest islands known. It covers, in the Indian Ocean, the spaces between latitudes 12 deg. and 25 deg. degrees south, and the longitudes 43 deg. and 51 deg. east of London; at a close calculation, has been found to fill up a superficies of over two hundred thousand square miles;—equal in extent to the Pyrenean peninsula, composed of Spain and Portugal. It has been but little explored; but treaties have been made with its reigning powers by both Great Britain and the United States.

Monday, April 19th.—At sea, in latitude 35 deg. 13', about one degree south of the Cape. Have been prevented from making entries in diary by rough weather, and heartily joined the schoolmaster in his wish, that "if Britannia ruled the waves, she would bring them more parallel to the 'Line!'"

Sunday, April 25th, 1852.—Are now off the Cape of Good Hope, called by its discoverer, Diaz, Cabo Tormentoso, or the Tormenting Cape, from the storms he encountered in its latitude. And well was it named, too, in our case; for here we are, with a wind right in our teeth, trying to beat up to Table Bay, and chasseeing to the Cape, as if to a stationary partner.

Just sixty days from China, and have run by reckoning seven thousand one hundred and forty-five miles,—our course giving us five thousand one hundred and ninety-four and one-half miles from Anger.

On Friday night last, while becalmed off Cape Algulhas, caught a number of very fine fish on the Algulhas banks. One kind was called "Cape Salmon;" another species was known at Cape Town by the name of "King Clip."

On last Sunday, had made our calculations to be in Cape Town on the ensuing Tuesday, from the fine wind we had; but if we get in by next Tuesday, shall consider ourselves fortunate. Can appreciate the situation of Mynheer Vanderdecken now, and his anxiety to forward letters by passing vessels. Shall take advantage of the steamer for England, at Cape Town, to forward some myself; which have hopes will be more fortunate in reaching their destination than the dispatches of the Flying Dutchman, passing there, as they will, through the Colonial Post Office.

The Cape of Good Hope is not the most extreme point of Southern Africa, the before-mentioned Algulhas extending farther into the Southern Ocean. Cape Town is to the westward of the Cape, upon an indentation called Table Bay. But I will now resume my diary, as we are approaching a place proper for it to be kept, according to the learned Lord Bacon. The next date is,

Southern Atlantic Ocean, May 3d, 1852.—Since last entry have been into Table Bay, for water, and have been on shore at Cape Town. Are now, as above, in latitude 30 deg. 24' south, with the wind dead aft, heading up the Atlantic for home: and from our last departure, begin to say at last, "We're homeward bound!"

On Monday last, April 26th, came to anchor in Table Bay about 5 P. M., having spent that and the previous day in trying to get in.

The approach to Cape Town is interesting; Table Mountain, with its extensive flat top, forming a prominent feature.

Before you round the point, which shuts in the anchorage, and excludes a view of the town, leaving only the heavy brow of this mountain visible, you pass along a coast composed of a long sloping hill in the proportions of a lion couchant. It extends eastwardly and westwardly, and the "Lion's Head" is first seen as you approach from the eastward. Upon the mount called thus, is a large rock, very similar in appearance to the outlines of a sculptured lion, of the Egyptian style of carving. The hill gradually diminishing, makes a good representation of the mane and hinder parts of a reposing lion; on what is distinguished as "the Rump," is a signal station: along the part forming the flanks are distributed beautiful country-seats: rounding "the Rump," the town is visible, with Table Bay, and shipping.

Table Bay in itself is not very imposing; is a bad roadstead, and vessels intending to make any stay at the colony, go round to Simon's Bay, which is a safe roadstead within the larger one called False Bay. Numerous windmills along the shore are remarkable objects, and prove the scarcity of water to grind the corn. It is a feature in the economy of Southern Africa, that streams, which are torrents at one season, become almost dry beds in the other.

Table Mountain, with the well laid out town at its base, flanked by "Devil's Peak" and "Lion's Head," makes a majestic, natural frame to a beautiful landscape. This singular mountain, before whose noble proportions the works of man sink into insignificance,—his dwellings appearing, from its summit, mere ant-hills,—is 3,582 feet above the level of the ocean; and for one thousand or more feet from its top descends on the north-east side perpendicularly, whilst the flat appearance of its lengthened surface completes the resemblance to the piece of furniture from which it receives its soubriquet.

The long even line, cutting the sky at right angles, was very pretty to look at while I was there. But a few weeks after, when AEolus spreads "the cloth," and invites the winds to a feast, then let the mariner, whose vessel may be caught in the bay beneath, beware. Forth from their revels they rush over its precipitous sides, and ships become their play-things, and man their prey!



CHAPTER XXVII.

Land at Cape Town—Hotels and Widows—Drive to Constantia —Description of Drive—Price of Wine—Manumission of Slaves—Seasons at the Cape—The Town through a Microscope, &c. &c.

Landed at Cape Town on a fine jetty, which projects some distance into the bay. This, with another about a mile above, are the only landing places. Stopped at "Parke's Hotel," at its head. This is kept by a widow lady, and a spruce dandy of a mulatto superintends its internal arrangements in the capacity of steward. There are two other hotels,—"The Masonic," and "Welch's,"—and a club-house. I believe all the houses of entertainment here have widows at their head—Sam Weller's injunction needed here—"Parke's" I know to be; "Welch's," I think, is; and two "Widows," at least in name, being man and wife with that appellation, spread forth the good things at "The Masonic;" and I have heard there are no bereavements there.

After a fine bath,—my first care in every port,—took a stroll through the town. There is at the head of the street, on which the hotel was situated, a splendid wide avenue, planted with rows of majestic oaks, their branches meeting overhead. This extends over one mile; on one side of it is the Governor's Palace and grounds, cut off from vulgar feet by a moat, or walled ditch, and accessible by a small drawbridge from the avenue. Opposite is a Botanical Garden.

With a party from the ship, hired a splendid barouche and team, and drove out to "Constantia," about thirteen miles, where the wine is made. It is a most beautiful drive, lined on either side by English country-houses, with surrounding grounds, intersected by broad avenues, smooth roads and walks, with green lawns spreading out around them, covered with close-clipped oak trees.

The drive was rather dusty, which somewhat detracted from its pleasure; but a shower of rain opportunely coming up, made the return more agreeable.

Passed through a number of villages, among them Wynberg,—a nourishing, pretty place. Saw a great number of school-houses and churches; but taverns, "licensed to sell spirituous liquors," as appeared upon their signs, were most numerous on this road. A small chapel was being built, which, from its dimensions, supposed to be of the established church, and no increase of congregation expected.

Visited the Vinery of S. Van Renen & Co., High Constantia. Was well received, although the coachman drove us to the wrong place; and we handed him a letter addressed to a Mr. Colyin, a neighbor, thinking it to be his place.

The grape season was over: wine had been all pressed and stowed away. They gather the grape in March, but it is allowed to become almost a raisin on the stem before it is plucked. Tasted these wines; found them sweet and luscious, too much so for my palate. This peculiar flavor is caused by the condition of the grape when pressed.

Prices of Constantia in Cask.

Copied from a Table on the Card of S. Van Renen & Co.

19 Gallons. 10 Gallons. 5 Gallons.

Pontac Constantia, L14 L8 L5

Frontignac " 10 6 4

White " 9 5 3

Red " 9 5 3

M. Van Renen, whom we found on the premises, after exhibiting the different wines, took us over the place, and showed us a collection of the different aborigines of South Africa, in statuary. There were Kaffirs, Hottentots, Fingoes, Betjouanas, and Boschmen. M. V. deprecated the abolition of slavery as a great injury to the agriculturists and vine-growers of the colony. They can get no one to perform any continuous labor, and whilst at one time his establishment kept eighty able-bodied men at work, would find it difficult to get three now whom they could depend upon. Living in a climate where clothing beyond the demands of decency is scarcely needed, and where the products of labor for two days will support the careless negro for one week, naturally improvident, he takes no heed for the morrow, and becomes lazy, idle, and intemperate; and when he can be persuaded to work, with the prospect of high wages, wherewith to purchase that necessary stimulus which has already nearly deprived him of his capacities, as soon as he can obtain them he rushes to the grog shop, from whence he may not be expected to return until his wants compel him again to his intermittent labor.

The colonists, especially the agricultural part of them, complain bitterly of hasty legislation in depriving them of slave labor. They had offered to submit to a gradual manumission, so that by degrees they might be able to supply the place of the negro operatives, but the English government would set them free at once, and the result has been injurious to the freedman and ruinous to the farmer. Was told that land could be purchased about Constantia at the low rate of one shilling the acre, altogether owing to the inability to procure labor to cultivate it; and to bring about this state of things here and elsewhere, some L20,060,000 was expended!

Returning from Constantia, our spanking team of four well proportioned iron grays, attracted considerable attention. It ought to have, for the expense of its hire was two pounds ten shillings. Stopped at the "Crown Inn," upon the road, for refreshments, and on handing a ragged little urchin a shilling for his voluntary service of standing at the door of our barouche, on starting off were saluted by a hiss for our generosity. A greater douceur was expected from the drivers of such a magnificent turnout.

The road, a greater part of it, was a turnpike, very even and smooth; paid toll, one shilling. Drove through an avenue of large oak trees, their topmost branches meeting overhead, to the extent of one fourth of a mile, forming a fine shade in summer. The seasons, of which there are but two, winter and summer, are reversed in Southern Africa; July being a cool month, and Christmas coming in midsummer at the Cape.

Returned to dinner at the hotel at seven o'clock, and ate some splendid Cape mutton. The caudal arrangements of the sheep at the Cape bear a great similarity to those at Shanghae.

After supper set out for a walk, in which were disappointed by a shower. It rains only in the winter season here, but heavy dews in the summer make up this deficiency of nature's nourishment, and the colony is carpeted with herbage of the most delicious fragrance, so that the paths of the colonists may then be said to be strewn with flowers.

The winters at the Cape are extremely mild; no snow falls there; and if at night ice is formed, it does not long withstand the rays of the sun. The season corresponds in its general features with our autumn. In the interior the winters are said to be more severe, and streams are sometimes frozen over.

Although it was the first winter month, in M. Van Renen's orange grove at Constantia, the trees were so laden with the Hesperian fruit, that their limbs were bent to the ground and many broken. Saw there also, pomegranates, liquots, rose apples, and a variety of tropical fruits, some ready to pluck, others in different stages of ripening.

Up betimes the next morning for a walk through Cape Town. Streets wide and clean, principally paved or macadamized. No banquettes; porches project in front of the houses, covering the trottoir, and pedestrians are forced into the middle of the street. That Hibernian must have been an emigrant to Cape Town, who remarked that "the middle of the street was the best side of the way."

The houses, however, present a fine appearance externally; they are usually about three stories in height, and being stuccoed, are painted in imitation of free-stone. Their tops are flat, to which their occupants repair to spend the remainder of the evening after their late dinners. There is a freshness about the place which is quite reviving after many days at sea, and was particularly pleasant to us, who had seen nothing but filthy Chinese towns for two years and upwards; Hong-Kong having been the nearest approach to a civilized community we had visited during the cruise, and even there the "long-tailed pig-eyed Celestial" predominated.

The parade ground is an extensive oblong space running along the strand, with a ditch dividing it from Strand-street. It has a border of a double row of fine flowering trees, and must be a delightful place for a stroll on a summer evening.

The Commercial Exchange and Library rooms are upon it, fronting the principal street; and back of the Exchange is a rough brick and mortar pillar to mark the spot where Sir J. Herschell, the astronomer, made his observations.

Near the parade ground, and facing it, are the barracks, manned at that time by women, their husbands, the soldiers, having been shipped off to Kaffir land. By the way; a terrible accident had occurred a few weeks before our arrival, to her Britannic Majesty's steamer Berkenhead, employed in transporting troops up the coast, to the war. She struck upon "Point Danger," and going down almost immediately, four out of five hundred of those on board were drowned.

I was told that only about eighty men had been left to garrison the town, and that a panic had lately been gotten up, from fears of a rising of the colored population. The lazy negroes, whom England, in her mistaken philanthropy, had liberated, not being compelled to work, chose to rob and steal.

The Custom-house, an unpretending building, with the letters and numerals G. IV. R. over its portals, is also on Strand-street, fronting the "Parade."

Early on the last morning ashore took a walk to the new market on the outskirts of the town, where the wholesale farmers bring their produce by teams drawn by from ten to fifteen yoke of oxen. These animals are the most suitable beasts for draught I have ever seen. With their long legs they get over the ground nearly as fast as a horse, in a walk, and, when required, go off in a fine, easy, and not ungraceful trot. They bring in immense loads, and come a great distance, over mountainous ways. The wagons they draw resemble those known as the Conestoga, on many of which noticed a projection astern something like a poop, serving as a sleeping cabin for the owners and drivers. In meeting these teams on the road, one at first imagines them to be a drove of beeves, but is soon undeceived by the crack of the lash—"long as the maintop-bowline"—striking against the side of a lagging bullock.

The new market is walled in, with gateways at either side to admit these teams, which, when they enter, and the wagon has been placed in a line with others, are outspanned, that is, detached; and form an immense herd in front of the wagons, the line of which, with the wall of the market place, make a complete corral.

The reason why I call these farmers wholesale, is, that all the produce brought by them is disposed of by lot to the highest bidders, according to "rise and fall" by auctioneers, who regularly attend for this purpose.

Met a number of this gentry hurrying to their duties on my return, having been too early to witness the auction. Hucksters receive their supplies in this manner, which they retail to the citizens—an extra tax, I should suppose, upon the honest burghers, from whose pockets must eventually be drawn the amount paid as commission to the auctioneers.



CHAPTER XXVIII.

Settlement of Cape Town—Its productions—The Kaffir War —Latest dispatches—Cause of the Rebellion—Description of the Kaffir by the Traveller—Opinion of him by the Resident—Authority of prominent men—Observatory, &c.

Within larger limits I would willingly indulge in a more extended description of Southern Africa, which is set down by geographers as the "Cape Region;" but as each day now diminishes our cruise, so does each chapter deprive me of space for digression, and I must confine myself to the Cape Colony, or more properly speaking, to Cape Town and its environs.

The town is in latitude 33 deg. 55' 30'' south, and as the Observatory has been decided to be in longitude 18 deg. 29', and is distant three miles and a quarter from the town, due east, it would be placed 18 deg. 25' 45'' east longitude.

The Cape of Good Hope, which is not the extremity of Southern Africa, as some geographers have it—"Lagullas" protruding further into the Indian Ocean—was discovered by Bartholomew Diaz in 1486, who gave it the name of the "Tormenting Cape," as previously stated, which was afterwards changed into its present title by the far-seeing Emanuel, and the hopes he then entertained of his navigators reaching the rich shores of the far "Inde," were made good by Vasco de Gama, eleven years after its discovery. The Dutch made their settlement here in 1652, of which they were deprived by the English in 1795, who afterwards restored it to them by treaty at Amiens, in 1802. Eventually it was ceded to Great Britain in 1815. The colony is quite extensive, and would be very productive but for numerous local causes which impede its growth. One of these has been named in the system of labor; but the most important impediment is want of unanimity amongst the settlers themselves. The Dutchman clinging to his ancient customs and habits, which are an abomination in the eyes of the Englishman; and the natives having been once subjected to the tender mercies of the white man, not understanding the use of freedom, or the benefits of self-government, live literally from "hand to mouth," in constant dread of recapture, and being forced, under the eyes of intelligent masters, to properly support themselves.

But even with these drawbacks the colony may be said to be flourishing, and when the Kaffir war is ended, and the Kat River rebellion put down, numerous fertile valleys will be open to the squatter, and contribute from their luxuriant bosoms bountiful supplies of wealth to the colony.

The principal productions of the Cape are grain of all kinds, and the grapes from which the Constantia wines are made. The specimen of wheat which I saw, was certainly superior to any I had ever seen in the United States, and an intelligent merchant there informed me that it is considered the best in the world. From the number of pounds he said it would weigh to a bushel, and its clean large grain, should think it the most profitable to the grower.

When we were at the Cape, the Kaffir war was dragging its slow length along. The troops had been pushed into Kaffraria, and the latest news from the scene of operations appeared in the Government Gazette, published by authority on the 22d April, 1852. Dispatches had been received from camp up to the 4th of that month. Major-General the Hon. George Cathcart, with the local rank of Lieutenant-General, having superseded Sir Harry G. W. Smith, was in command. The campaign was on the Kei, and Lieutenant-Colonel Eyre, 73d regiment, following a spoor of cattle, had captured 1,220 head of Gaika cattle, mostly cows, and fifteen horses.

He had several skirmishes with the enemy, who came forth in considerable numbers to protect their herds. Major Armstrong's passage of the Kei, and charge, is spoken of in warm terms of commendation. In this affair the Kaffirs numbered about 500, of whom 100 were mounted. The gallant Major's command, including himself, was 100; with these he crossed the river under a heavy fire, and dispersed five times his number.

A general order had been published at head-quarters, King William's Town, dated 6th April, 1852, in which the Commander-in-Chief congratulates the army on the prospect of a speedy termination of the war, and states that the troops then occupied every stronghold in the Amatolas, and it was impossible the enemy could retain a footing, so closely was he pursued in every direction. Notwithstanding this cheering announcement, I fear this Kaffir war will resemble in its pursuance and general features our Florida campaigns, although the officers engaged in it will receive more credit than our own; and if their duties are arduous in chasing the Hottentots over mountains, and through rugged defiles, yet they have the advantage of a healthy field of operations, and can bivouac on the mountain ridge, or amongst the green valleys, whilst our troops had to seek their damp beds amidst the miasmatic everglades, or more pestiferous marsh. Again, the Kaffirs do occasionally make a stand, and some very severe actions have taken place between them and the British troops.

This war was caused by a rebellion of a portion of the Hottentots of the Kat River settlement, at Fort Beaufort, and the Theopolis Missionary establishment, in Albany. It is supposed to have originated because of the application of stringent vagrant laws, and from apprehensions of being again forced into slavery. It is carried on on the eastern frontier of the country. The above are the surmised causes, but there are thought to have been other motives. A representative from one of the eastern districts, stated in his place in the Legislative Council, that he considered the rebellion to be a national movement, that all the documents found in the rebel camps were exhortations to stand up in the defence of their nation. "General Orders" had been found which had been scattered over a country 500 miles in extent, and these call upon the colored men to unite and drive the white men into the sea, "of which they are the scum."

Sir Andrew Stockenstrom, from the Kat River settlement, called the rebellion "a Riddle," and the Hon. John Montague, Secretary to Government, ascribes the hostile feelings of the Hottentots, to an idea that they are to be made slaves. One gentleman asks in relation to the subject: "What do we know of the rebellion? Why it was only the other day that an officer of the Government was brought to Cape Town, a prisoner for rebellion!"

A commission, appointed by her Majesty the Queen, consisting of Major Hogge and Mr. Owen, had not then commenced their investigations.

There were some Kaffirs in Cape Town, sent in as witnesses, but did not see them. The following is Barrow's description of this people: "They are tall, robust, and muscular, and distinguished by a peculiar firmness of carriage. Some of them were six feet ten inches, and so elegantly proportioned that they would not have disgraced the pedestal of the Farnese Hercules." Further on, he states: "The natives of Kaffraria, if taken collectively, are perhaps superior, in point of figure, to the inhabitants of any other country on earth; they are indeed exempt from many of those causes which, in civilized society, tend to debilitate and impede the growth of the human body. Their diet is perfectly simple, their exercise conducive to health, and the air they breathe salubrious. Strangers to the licentious appetites which frequently proceed from a depraved imagination, they cheerfully receive the bounteous gifts of nature, and when night sways her ebon sceptre o'er the scene,

'Sweetly composed the weary shepherd lies, Though through the woods terrific winds resound, Though rattling thunder shakes the vaulted skies, Or vivid lightning runs along the ground.'"

After that read the opinions held of them in Cape Town. I make the extracts from the published debates of the Legislative Council of the colony, in assembly there. The Secretary to Government says: "We have before us the most remarkable fact, that hundreds of these people on the frontier, who had lived with the farmers, many of them ten or twelve, and even a greater number of years, suddenly, and without the smallest provocation, turned round and murdered them, or turned them out of their houses with hardly a rag upon them, destroyed their property, and walked over to the enemy." Hardly a man who speaks of them, that does not complain of their pilfering propensities; the farmers grievously as regards their sheep.

There were at one time some 800 rebels at Fort Hare; a great number were allowed to depart. Some 3 or 400 were thrown into a regiment and armed; 50 only of the 800 were convicted. This black regiment became so dangerous, after all the confidence bestowed upon them, that their officers would not go out with them, fearing more to be shot by their own men than the enemy. Shortly after they were found sending ammunition in large quantities to the rebels, and had to be disbanded. One of the members of the Council contended that the Kaffir and the Hottentot (they appeared, indeed, to make little distinction between them) are not to be purchased with favors, or conciliated by constitutional privileges; in his own forcible language, "I feel that no man of experience with regard to the Kaffir and Hottentot, will come to such a conclusion. Like the wild fox, they may, indeed, accept your favors and concessions, but it is only to await a more favorable opportunity of seizing their prey."

Mr. Godlonton, from those provinces, asserted that idleness had been the bane and ruin of the colored classes of the colony, and in the eastern provinces has led to rebellion, anarchy, robbery, and murder.

To prove that I have not made my assertions in a previous page, in regard to the condition of the colored population, and the little benefit conferred upon them by emancipation, hastily and without authority, I quote the opinions of many of the best informed men of the colony, which have the greater weight as coming from persons whose positions placed them above the power of petty prejudices.

A Mr. Stegman gives in evidence that a portion of the Hottentots who went from Cape Town, were in communication with the rebels in the field, and at one time hesitated whether they should use their arms against them, or her Majesty's troops.

Mr. Cock stated, in debate, that within his own knowledge, there was a general fear of the colored races in the eastern districts of the Cape Colony, and he fears that the seeds of disaffection, if not rebellion, are deeply sown within their breasts, and that, if they saw any probability that her Majesty's troops would be subdued, they would at once go over to the rebels; and after asking what has brought this state of things about—what led to the war on the frontier—the desolation of some of the finest districts—desecration of their homesteads, and the spilling of the best blood of the colonists—attributes it to the want of a firm and efficient government.

In relation to the Hottentots enrolled in the Western provinces, it is stated that when they went into the field under Colonel Mackinnon, and were attacked near the Amatola, they were saved from destruction by the interposition of the seventy-third regiment.

A gentleman, who is called a "native foreigner," thus expresses himself: "I know the Hottentot character well, as well as any man in the colony. I am a colonist born, and I believe from my soul, that it will be the most dangerous experiment ever made to allow these men to vote under a franchise amounting to universal suffrage."

The Secretary of Government stated: "We had nearly a rebellion here (at Cape Town), amongst the same class of colored people as those at the East, and although the panic had partially subsided, the hostile disposition of that class against the whites had assuredly not." So much for the fidelity of, and the confidence reposed in, the colored classes of the Cape Colony.

The population of the Cape is heterogeneous; composed of Dutch, English, French, Germans, Malays, Hottentots, emancipated Slaves, Betjouanas, Fingoes, and others coming under the name of native foreigners; which, I take it, means the same as the West India word "creole"—one born of European parents in a colony. The Dutch, as being the earliest settlers, are most numerous, of those laying claims to white blood; but all the power is in the hands of the English, of course, who are too quick-witted for the phlegmatic "Boer," the term they apply to the Hollander. After the French and Germans, a small proportion, and the few Malays now left, comes the Hottentot—the Aborigine. With them are enumerated the other colored races, as having the mark of degradation stamped by the Almighty upon the first-born of mankind. The "emancipated slaves," having, with a few exceptions, originally sprung from that race, have been but little raised in the scale of humanity, during their term of servitude to the Dutch.

Wished much to have visited the celebrated Observatory, but understood its interior had been destroyed by fire, a few weeks before. There are many constellations seen at the Cape not visible elsewhere.

Was disappointed also in examining the Library; I wanted to overhaul the celebrated Cape Records, said to be interesting.



CHAPTER XXIX.

A Death on board—Our Freight—Extracts from Diary—St. Helena and Napoleon—The Trades—Poetical idea of a starry Telegraph—Good Sailing.

One of the invalids, whom we were bringing home from the squadron, died and was buried at Cape Town. Poor fellow, he was never destined to see his native land again. His disease, consumption, with the usual tendency of that complaint, made rapid advances as we drew near land. He had resigned himself to die, and his repeated wish was that we might reach the Cape before he should breathe his last; that he might feel assured of resting in consecrated ground. He was of the Catholic faith, and had his wish, for a priest of his religion attended his remains to their last resting-place, where the seagull swoops, on the shores of the "stormy Cape."

On leaving the Cape, our ship presented the appearance of a vessel engaged by naturalists to bring home specimens; and the botanical department was represented by boxes containing specimens of sugar-cane placed in the quarter, stern boats, and on the poop. Monkeys, belonging to the men, made a menagerie on the booms. Others of the genus simia were stationed in the tops; an aviary composed of cockatoos, Cape parrots, Java sparrows, minas, &c., was dispersed through different messes; whilst indigenous animals, such as rats, mice, cockroaches and ants, had their appropriate haunts.

Fifth of May.—"Rolling down to St. Helena," as the sailors' song has it. Have passed the latitude of Angra Pequena, on the African coast, where Martin Diaz the Portuguese navigator erected a cross, and gave it the additional title of Santa Cruz. This emblem is said to have been lately overthrown by an English merchant captain. I can imagine the Goth, bloated with beer, and vomiting forth strange oaths!

May the 10th.—Still heading for St. Helena, which calculate on making within three days. Have caught the "trades," but indeed have had winds answering their purpose ever since we left the Cape, having had them generally aft.

On the 13th of May at 10 h. 30 m. made the loom of the Island of St. Helena, bearing N. N. E. per compass, passed it about thirty miles to windward, just twelve days and a half from the Cape, within the average passage.

Helena, lone hermit of the ocean, saddened by the memory of Napoleon, its involuntary hermit. But the dead lion no longer reposes there; his remains have been transferred to one of his own splendid monuments in unfaithful but now penitent Paris; and the spirit of prophecy must have prompted the pen of Byron to write, long before the event took place—

"France shall yet demand his bones!"

May 19th.—In latitude 8 deg. 50' south, 19 deg. 33' west longitude, approaching the line; have had fine trades; now getting light; weather warm, and fine; for the last few days summer clothing in demand.

Sunday, 23d of May.—Trade wind still holds on; three sail in sight; one passed across our bows bound to the southward and westward, and showed Dutch colors.

Thursday, 27th May, 1852.—Crossed the line last night in about longitude 34 deg. west; are now in the northern Atlantic, and fairly in our own hemisphere; have hit the same day of the month to cross it, in returning; going out the 26th of February, 1850, and coming back the 26th of May, 1852. What has passed in the interval! Is it not faithfully recorded on these pages?

Are now looking out for the N. E. trades, and have symptoms of soon getting them. With luck shall make our port within a month from present date.

Tuesday, June 1st.—Within this month expected to be detached; for the last few days have encountered calms and squalls, line weather, and have not made much progress; got no observation yesterday; last night at half past eleven the master took a lunar, which put us in 3 deg. 17' north latitude. Whilst writing have struck a fine breeze, which we hope will soon carry us out of the doldrums.

Third of June.—Latitude 7 deg. 1' north; have caught the trades at last; after coquetting for several days, these winds, so constant when caught, have consented to fill our sails, and we are now careering along, knocking off hourly nine knots of the distance which divides us from our homes. It is pleasant sailing, too, in these trades, and when you once strike them, you feel secure of their continuance up to a certain parallel. All you have to do is to set your sails, studding-sails, royals, moonsails and sky-scrapers, if you carry them; keep them full, and let your vessel go dancing along, day after day, without handling a brace. Seamanship may take a spell below, for your ship will almost sail herself!

Saw the northern or polar star last night for the first time, a few degrees above the horizon, peeping at us with its twinkling eye, as much as to say, welcome home! Hailed it as a link connecting us with our native land. How many eyes of persons dear to us, look upon that star, when they think of us. Its appearance suggests the following idea:

If to yon glittering, gleaming star, Our thoughts might wing their rapid flight, To meet in that bright orb, afar; Thoughts that are sent towards us to-night: How happy thitherward to speed, Soul meeting soul, above the wave; From earth, and earth's dark passions freed, And—oh! what postage it would save!

Saturday, June 5th, 1852.—Latitude 20 deg. 43' N., longitude 47 deg. 40' W. Yesterday knocked off two hundred and forty miles, averaging ten miles per hour; best run yet; only about 2200 miles distant to-day; made two hundred and twenty-four miles the last twenty-four hours.

Sixth of June.—Twelve o'clock just reported, and latitude 15 deg. 14', and have run two hundred and twenty-two miles since meridian yesterday; making six hundred and eighty-six miles in three days, an average of two hundred and twenty-eight and two third miles per diem. Have passed the Windward Islands; are getting anxious now, and even if we do make good runs, yet this practice of killing time by half hours (the bell is struck every half hour), is becoming tedious, as we draw near home.



CHAPTER XXX.

Classic Ground—Hispaniola—Romance of the Western Waters —Extracts from Diary—On a Wind—Newsboats wanted—The Bermudas—Target practice.

We are now upon what might be called with poetical license, "classic ground." Over these seas the small caravels of Columbus sought the land, which had appeared to him in dreams, which we can now hardly look upon as less than inspired. To-day, the eighth of June, we are in the latitude of the south side of Cuba, along the shores of which he coasted, mistaking them for Cipango, beyond which he was to reach the magnificent country of Kathay, as described in the glowing pages of Marco Polo, and Mandeville.

We have passed the parallel of the Isle of St. Domingo, his beloved and heart-breaking Hispaniola. How blackened now its history, and how inapposite its name! Obliquely we run past the Lucayan Isles, looking out almost as anxiously as he did for the "promised land." But how opposite our situations! We, with all the certain aids of science and experience, steer for a well-known country; whilst he, thinking to make the far distant land from which we now return, his own mind his chart, his inspiration his guide, pointed his prow to uncertain ports in unknown seas.

Talk of the Mediterranean, its Islands and its romance, why there is more of the wonderful and romantic connected with the first voyages to the western Archipelago, and the continent of America, than is comprised in the history of the travel-stained Levant.

Would you have the story of the Argonauts, enlarged and improved, follow the track of any of those Portuguese, Spanish, or even English adventurers in search of gold, to these lands, and amongst these keys, and see how the expedition for the "golden fleece" dwindles into insignificance. But what does my poor pen with what our own wizard of the west, Washington Irving, has made immortal? Turn to the pages of his Columbus, but not before you have laid aside these.

Tuesday, June 8th.—Each day decreases our distance, and we were, at meridian, but 1600 miles from our port. The 20th is put down as the time of our arrival now. Have been busy in preparing things for debarkation. A barque came near running into us the night before last. To-day saw two sail, a bark and brig. Sea-weed is floating by; like ourselves, returning to the Gulf from strange seas.

Thursday, June 10th.—Lat. 24 deg. 21' north. Made 218 miles the last twenty-four hours: about 180 the day previous, which leaves only 1200 miles to run, and going nine knots. Trade still strong.

Friday, June 11th.—Passed an English barque bound to the eastward. She showed her longitude on a black board. Did not hail. Showed our longitude, still keeping on. She was a degree out of her reckoning.

At meridian had made 225 miles, and were in lat. 26 deg. 47'; long. 63 deg. 15' west. Ten days more ought to bring us in easily.

Sunday, June 13th.—Lost the trades yesterday, in lat. 28 deg. 44', long. 65 deg. 42'; and from nine and ten knots, have come down to three and four. Made only 176 miles yesterday. To-day nearly calm; made but 80 miles since meridian yesterday. Most beautiful weather; could not be more pleasant, only have no wind. Are now in the "horse latitudes," but cannot complain; the trade has pushed us along bravely, and served us well. Only 720 miles from our port at meridian.

June 14th.—On coming on deck this morning, found the wind had come out nearly dead ahead, and the ship barely heading her course under a topsail breeze, with her yards braced sharp.

It is a pretty sight, or rather Would be a pleasant thing, as the Epicurean Lucretius expresses it, "to stand upon the shore, and to see ships tossed at sea." At least I imagined so this morning, with our craft "upon a wind," whilst standing in the weather gangway, and watching her plunge and curvet, held up to her course by the helm, as a steed by a curb, obeying its rider; but I did not think the motion as agreeable as that derived from equestrian exercise. Motion quite disagreeable; and I made strange work at dotting i's and crossing t's. Hyphens also will connect words more closely than intended,—confounding too all compound terms. Showed our colors to a brig standing to the southward and eastward. Impossible to speak a vessel just now; but if we could only have gotten near one yesterday, might have communicated by boat, obtained newspapers, and learned the nominations, and general state of the country. By this time, two poor men, pitted against each other for the Presidency, have doubtless been made out more miserable characters than their most intimate acquaintance ever supposed them to be. And if either were elected, with the charges brought against him fully proved, it would be a disgrace to the Republic!

Twelve o'clock, and latitude just reported 30 deg. 24'—the parallel of New-Orleans; longitude 68 deg. 01'. Are getting past the Bermudas,—as usual, the "still vexed Bermoothes," though what continues to keep Bermoothes out of temper I cannot imagine.

Tuesday, June 15th.—Longitude, by chronometer, 70 deg. 47' west; latitude observed, 32 deg. 12' north: are barely making a northwest course, with a westerly variation. Have the wind steady at northeast by east. This makes it quite cold, and flannels and thick coats are comfortable.

June 16th.—In turning out this morning at four bells, found it quite calm; and on looking at the log slate, found that the wind had gone down within the past hour. Took advantage of the calm to practice at a target. Fired both batteries,—very good shooting; but the target escaped until the last shot, which knocked off the bull's eye, and dismounted the gun.

Whilst exercising, a clipper ship passed at some distance from us, bound to southward and eastward.



CHAPTER XXXI.

The Gulf Stream—Darby's Theory—Its ingenuity—The Coasts of America—John Cabot, the Venetian—"Terra Primum Visa"—Completion of Cruise—Conclusion.

Thursday, June 17th.—Have at last got amongst the variable winds, for we struck a breeze yesterday immediately after exercising, and went pitching along at the rate of eight knots before dark. Sea quite rough. This morning calm again. Have touched the edge of the Gulf Stream, judging from the temperature of the water, and general appearance of the weather. Darby's theory of this current is so learned and philosophical, that I may be excused giving place to it here. In his theme, The Earth, he touches upon this phenomena, and explains it thus: "The earth turns round upon its axis once in twenty-four hours, and consequently fifteen degrees of its meridians revolve hourly; therefore, by multiplying the breadth of any number of degrees of longitude by fifteen, we have the hourly motion of that part of the earth's surface round the axis; as, for example, in lat. 45 deg., a degree of long. is 48-3/4 English miles wide, within a trifling fraction. From these elements, it results that particles of matter on lat. 45 deg. on the surface of the earth, revolve about 630 miles hourly: this is nearly the mean motion, as the maximum at the equator is a fraction less than 1,040 miles hourly, and decreasing along the meridians, until it becomes 0 at either pole."

From this hypothesis he reasons that atmospheric and oceanic masses are moved along with the decumbent nucleus with a velocity decreasing from the equator to the poles; and if the least retardation operates on the atmospheric and oceanic waters, a counter-current will be formed, flowing with the greatest rapidity where the retardation is greatest. This, he says, occurs along the equator, where the horary motion is at its maximum; and thus the tropic current is formed. This current receives volume and velocity from another cause, which is thus explained: "Immediately under the sun, or where the beams of that luminary are direct, a vacuum is produced, into which the circumambient air rushes; and as this vacuity is carried westward along the equator, upwards of 1,035 miles hourly, an atmospheric current follows, which, acting on the ocean waters, impels them westward, and adds force and mass to the tropic current. In the Atlantic Ocean, from the peculiar structure of its shores, a very remarkable phenomenon—the Gulf Stream—is produced. South America, in form an immense triangle, is based on the Pacific, and protrudes its perpendicular angle into the Atlantic at south latitude 6 deg.. This salient point is Cape St. Roque, from which the continent extends to the northwest, crosses the equator, and stretches beyond the northern tropic, forming in the Gulf of Mexico an immense reservoir. Here the continent again turns at right angles, and continues northeast into the northern polar circle. The very deep indenting of the American Continent in the Gulf of Mexico, and the long line of coast from its recesses into the southern section of the torrid zone, is in a peculiar manner calculated to produce that very reflux, which constitutes the largest whirlpool on the globe."

Much more does this ingenious writer advance, but my limits prevent its insertion here, and the subject is not exactly in accordance with the tenor of my task. Suffice it for the present, that upon this day, the 18th of June, we have passed over this equatorial current, and are now heading for our native shores, and are in the waters made classic by the glorious endeavors of the early navigators. Strange is it that of all those who sought this coast, the name of John Cabot, the first adventurer who landed upon it, should be so seldom mentioned: and History, called by a philosopher a Splendid Lie, should prove its title to mendacity, by giving all the glory of the land, "primum visa" to his son, Sebastian. To John Cabot, a Venetian, then a merchant of Bristol, England, in the reign of the Seventh Henry, is all the honor to be ascribed of setting the first European foot upon the then desert wilds that now bloom, the Garden of the United States; and if a name must be derived from the discoverer, without reference to its euphony, to descend as a patronymic, by such a rule, we should be called Cabotians, instead of Yankees, United Staters, or by the Vespucian title of Americans.

But to Columbus attaches all the fame of the original idea of navigating the Western Seas, and if he did not set foot upon the shores towards which we are now sailing, his voyage incited others to undertake what perhaps would never otherwise have been dreamed of, and the tropics would long after have remained painted in their imaginations as a circle of fire in which the Salamander sported. About a year after the Genoese had returned from his first voyage—I quote from an Italian, Tiraboschi—the merchant of Bristol appears to have embraced the idea that new lands might be discovered in the North West, and a passage to India might be brought to light by this course. And, in answer to his application, on the 5th of March, 1495, King Henry the Seventh granted a commission to John Cabot and his three sons, Louis, Sebastian, and Sanchez. And on the 24th of June, 1497, he discovered that part of this Continent, which he called "Terra primum Visa" nearly a year previous to the discovery of the country south of the Isthmus of Darien. But, satis superque, we have had almost enough of ships and the sea. Our prow is directed towards our own loved shores; the southern gales waft us propitiously on them; with each swell of the ocean, our bosoms heave in unison, our hearts leap forwards with our gallant barque, over every obstructing wave:

"Bend, bend, ye lithe and quivering spars, Point home my country's stripes and stars."

It is evening, and yon setting sun, whose course we have tracked from the lonely anchorage in the Typa, down the China Seas, across the Indian Ocean, and over the wide expanse of the Atlantic, sinks slowly to night behind the mountains of our own broad and beautiful land. They gild the spire of an ancient village church, beneath which, in the days that are no more, our youthful ears drank in the kindly teachings of the gray-headed and venerable man, now forming one of the congregation that sleeps beneath the green sod surrounding it. They gild, with a golden tint, the attic windows of an old homestead, behind the small panes of which, there came to us once, more golden, but equally unsubstantial, visions, when our hearts, untravelled, sank to slumbers light and sweet. Ere its next setting, have hopes that the telegraph wires will convey thither the glad news of our safe return.

We have taken a pilot on board; the chain cables are ranged forward on either gangway, bent to the anchors, ready for letting go; the changing color of the water denotes soundings, and every thing indicates we shall soon be in.

Patient reader, my Cruise is completed. Its preparation has beguiled me of many a monotonous hour at sea. If either at sea or on shore it be, in this manner beneficial to you, I shall be satisfied. We must part. I bid you adieu, with a feeling towards you as if you had been my compagnon du voyage; and fervently wish that your Cruise of Life may be over placid seas, to pleasant ports, and always in company with kind and generous friends.

THE END.



Attractive Books of Travel, History and Biography. RECENTLY PUBLISHED BY GEO. P. PUTNAM, 10 PARK PLACE.

COX. A Buckeye Abroad. 2nd ed. with illus., 12mo, $1 25.

IDA PFEIFFER. Journey to Iceland. 12mo., clo., 40 cts.

REACH. Claret and Olives. 12mo., cloth, 40 cts.

OLMSTED. Walks & Talks of an Amer. Farmer in Eng. 40c.

BRYANT. Memorial of J. Fenimore Cooper. 8vo., $1.

——Letters of a Traveller. New ed. 12mo., cloth, $1 25.

GODWIN. Hand-Book of Universal Biography. 12mo., $2.

LAYARD. Nineveh and its Remains. Plates. 2v. 8vo. $5.

——Nineveh and its Remains. Cheap unabridged ed. $1.

CELLINI. Memoirs. Translated by T. Roscoe. 12mo., $1 25.

American Historical and Literary Curiosities. Imp'd. ed. $7

ELLIOT. The Liberty of Rome. 2 vols. With Illus. $4 50

HAWKS. Egypt and its Monuments. With plates. $2 50

——Egypt and its Monuments. Cheap ed. 12mo., clo., $1

SPENCER. The East. 8vo., $3; 12mo., $1 50.

GOETHE. Autobiography. By P. Godwin and others. $1 75.

IRVING. Astoria. With Map. 12mo., cloth., $1 50.

——Mahomet and his Successors. 2 vols. 12mo., $2 50.

——Columbus and his Companions. 3 vols. 12mo., $4.

——Crayon Miscellany. 12mo., cloth, $1 25.

——Conquest of Granada. 12mo., cloth., $1 25.

——Oliver Goldsmith, a biography. 12mo., cloth, $1 25.

——Adventures of Capt. Bonneville. 12mo., cloth, $1 25.

——Conquest of Florida. 12mo., cloth, $1 25.

GREENE. Historical Studies. 12mo., cloth, $1 25.

MOODIE. Roughing it in the Bush. 12mo., cloth, 75 cts.

TUCKERMAN. Sicily. 12mo., cloth, 40 cts.

PUTNAM. The World's Progress, a Dictionary of Dates. $2.

——Supplement to the above to 1852. 25 cts.

SAUNDERS. Memories of the Great Metropolis. 12mo., $1.

SQUIER. The Serpent Symbol. Plates. 8vo., cloth, $2 25.

TALVI. The Slavic Nations, their Literature, &c. $1 25.

KEATS. Life and Letters, by Milnes. 12mo., cloth, $1 25.

WALTON. Lives of Hooker, Donne, Wotton, &c. 12mo., $1.

UNGEWITTER. Europe, Past and Present. 12mo., $1 50.

CALVERT. Scenes and Thoughts in Europe. 50 cts.

CURZON. Monasteries in the Levant. Plates. $1 50.

HEAD. A Faggot of French Sticks. 4th ed. 12mo., cl., $1

FORD. The Spaniards and their Country. 12mo., $1.

Eothen; or Traces of Travel from the East. 12mo., 50 cts.

PARKMAN. Prairie and Rocky Mountain Life. $1 25.

TURNBULL. The Genius of Italy. New ed. 12mo., $1.

ST. JOHN. Adventures in the Libyan Desert. 12mo. 75 cts.

TAYLOR. Views A-foot. 12th edition. 12mo., cloth, $1 25.

——Eldorado. New ed. Col'd plt's. 2 vols., $2; 1 vol. $1 25.

WARBURTON. The Crescent and the Cross. $1 25.

SQUIER & DAVIES. The Monuments of the Mississippi Valley. Many plates. 4to., cloth, $10.

WILKES. United States Exploring Expedition. New ed. Numerous plates. 5 vols. 8vo., cloth, $15.

——Voyage round the World. With plates. 8vo. $3.

WILLIS. Trenton Falls. Illustrated. 12mo., cloth, 50 cts

DICKINSON. My First Visit to Europe. 12mo., 75 cts.

WARREN. Adventures on the Banks of the Amazon. 75 cts

THACKERAY. A Journey from Cornhill to Cairo. 50 cts.

HOLGATE. American Genealogies. 4to. $5.



Transcriber's Notes:

Inconsistencies in the hyphenation of words preserved. (ahoy, a-hoy; cocoanut, cocoa-nut; flagship, flag-ship; Lintin, Lin-tin; lookout, look-out; northeast, north-east; shipboard, ship-board; topgallant, top-gallant; Tyfoong, Ty-foong; Woosung, Woo-sung)

Pg. 58, name d'Assis is also rendered as D'Assis in other instances on the same and subsequent pages. Original text preserved in all instances.

Pg. 65, "allthough" changed to "although" (although her owner appeared to)

Pg. 84, unusual spelling "grandiliquose" retained.

Pg. 119, "afterterwards" changed to "afterwards". (treaty which was afterwards)

Pg. 127, "fom" changed to "from". (No news from home!)

Pg. 137, "o" changed to "of". (much reluctance that these Celestial citizens of)

Pg. 165, "unshophisticated" changed to "unsophisticated". (appeared to my unsophisticated)

Pg. 168, "supended" changed to "suspended". (suspended from an oar)

Pg. 179, name of corvette "Don Jooa", is spelled "Don Joao" on page 83. Original text preserved in both instances.

Pg. 191, "unobstrusive" changed to "obtrusive". (his unobstrusive manners)

Pg. 196, unmatched doublequote marks in block of quoted speech: "if Britannia ... to the "Line!". To avoid ambiguity, this has been changed to "if Britannia ... to the 'Line!'".

Pg. 214, paragraph ending with '... robbery and murder.' In the original text this paragraph ended with a doublequote mark indicating that some portion of the paragraph was quoted speech. However an opening doublequote mark was missing and it was not clear where the quoted speech began. Perhaps the quote speech began after 'asserted that' but there is no way of being sure. Hence, the closing doublequote mark has been removed from the paragraph.

Pg. 223, "af" changed to "of". (the story of the Argonauts)

THE END