Since the acquisition of California, our government possesses a much speedier route, and would find it greatly to her interest to establish a line by any of the overland routes across the Isthmus of Darien, and from thence by steam to Shanghae, or even Hong-Kong in China; and I do not despair of seeing the time when letters will be delivered in these ports within forty days, from the Atlantic cities. Our growing interests in this section of the globe demand attention and some arrangement of this kind.

Remained moored in the harbor of Hong-Kong until the second day of April, visiting the town occasionally, and strolling over the hills for exercise.

They have some very fine roads for drives, cut at a considerable expense through hills and boulders of granite. The "Victoria Road" leads out, about four miles to a place called East Point, and upon it, about two miles from the town, is a fine race-course. This course has been gotten up by subscription, and is situated in a large and beautiful valley, called "Happy Valley." It is well named, if beauty can confer happiness, and it certainly is a principal ingredient, for has not a poet said

"A thing of beauty is a joy forever."

Here are held periodical races, and the sport is much enjoyed, as it always is by Englishmen. No climate is too hot, none too cold to prevent it, and these trials of speed are characteristic of the nation. The Spaniard will have his bull-fight, the Mexican pits his cocks, but John Bull selects the noblest of quadrupeds, and infuses into him his own emulation for superiority.

Upon the evening of the 31st of March, had a little excitement to destroy the monotony of a life on shipboard. A report was circulated that a band of pirates had smuggled themselves on board the P. & O. Company's steamer "Hong-Kong," which had left that day for Canton.

These boats are in the habit of taking Chinese passengers at one dollar a head, a very low rate, and as such, it was said a number of desperadoes, armed, had embarked in her.

H. B. M. screw propeller "Reynard," immediately got up steam, thirty men and officers from our ship were transferred to the little American steamer "Spark," and both vessels started in hot pursuit.

The Reynard stopped at the Bogue, and her boats proceeded to scour those waters, whilst the Spark proceeded up the Canton river. She had not far to go, however, for about midnight the return steamer was hailed, which reported having passed the "Hong-Kong," all right. So both vessels returned to Hong-Kong, upon the morning of the first of April.

But although the coincidence was ominous, they could not truly be said to have caught a "poisson d'avril," for there was doubtless a design against the steamer, which had on board a large amount of treasure, and some of these Chinamen were afterwards tried and condemned at Hong-Kong, for the attempt. Want of unanimity or some other cause having defeated their purpose.

Upon the second of April, left for Macao, there to await the arrival of our consort. Tried to get into our old anchorage in the Typa, and stuck upon the mud-bank again, where we remained until the fourth morning, kedging, hauling and warping, when succeeded in getting afloat by pumping out the water, and transferring shot, &c., into a lorcha. After reaching the anchorage, hoisted the Portuguese flag, and fired a salute of 21 guns in honor of the birthday of the Queen of Portugal.

Upon the 8th instant, our consort arrived, and anchored in the outer roads; by her I received old newspapers, and a letter seven months and seventeen days after date.

Had been ashore several times in Macao, but found little to interest me until the evening before Good Friday, when there was a general turn out of the inhabitants, and all the churches were brilliantly illuminated, and the altars decked with flowers. Crowds went from one church to the next, and the principal object appeared to be that of visiting each and every church, a continuous stream being kept up between them.

Upon Good Friday the tragedy of the death of our Saviour was performed at the cathedral. After the crucifixion, the body was removed from the cross, and carried upon a bier, through the different streets in solemn procession. First came the host with its usual attendants, then followed the "accursed tree" with the bloody garment of Christ upon it. After it came ten beautiful children, personating angels; then was borne a waxen image to represent the corpse, followed by the virgin mother, and immediately succeeding the two other Marys. The bishop and suite were next, then the troops of the garrison, with arms reversed, and mournful music; the rear being brought up by male citizens in mourning dresses and heads uncovered. In this line of march the procession moved through the principal streets, and back to the cathedral, where the body was placed in the tomb with solemn ceremony.

On the first day of the week the resurrection was celebrated with appropriate joyful demonstration. At night, maskers went about the streets, stopping at intervals to have a dance, and entering houses, where after going through a performance, they would partake of refreshments.

Left Macao for Shanghae on the 25th of April, to beat up the China Sea against a strong N. E. monsoon. In this passage our craft behaved remarkably well, and although quite wet, held her own, and diligently ploughed her way through all difficulties, amongst not the least obstructing was a heavy head sea, which made her very uncomfortable, also greatly impeded her progress.

Made the islands off the mouth of the Yang-tse-Kiang on the 12th of May, and came to anchor in the river that night. Found the current very strong, and the wind being ahead, had to await a change of tide.

Weighed anchor with the first setting in of the flood, and got about eight miles up the river, when had to let it go again. Thus we continued until the 14th, when had worked our way into the Woo-Sung or Shanghae river, where, although the breeze was favorable, the water shoaled so suddenly, that we were forced to come to, just above the village of Woo-Sung. The Woo-Sung river empties into the Yang-tse-Kiang about 40 miles from its confluence with the ocean, and the city of Shanghae is situated upon the Woo-Sung, about three leagues above its junction with the Yang-tse-Kiang, which is one of the largest rivers in China, and washes the walls of the city of Nankin, formerly the southern capital of the Empire.

Nankin is laid down in latitude 32 deg. 5' N., longitude 119 deg. E., and is about 50 leagues from the ocean.

The meaning of the words Yang-tse-Kiang, is, Child of the Ocean, or more literally, "Son of the Sea;" it is about two thousand five hundred miles in length, and its breadth and capacity entitle it to the classification of the third river of the world.[8]

As we ascended the Woo-Sung, found a marked difference in the face of the country. Our former stations in China had been amongst the rocky hills of the southern Archipelago, which scarcely allowed the smallest shrub to take root upon their barren sides, and the sight of trees had become rare to us. But here, upon either side, was stretched out a beautiful green plain, giving evidence of the most industrious cultivation, protected from encroachments of the river by strong and broad levees. Substantial, comfortable farm-houses meeting the eye in every direction, supplied the places of the insecure huts of the fishermen. Fruit trees were abundant, and the general aspect gave evidence of a genial soil, aiding the efforts of the provident husbandman.

The men, too, whom we could see at work beyond the embankments, were of a larger stature, and had a more healthy appearance than their southern brethren. Their complexions were of a lighter hue, and here, for the first time, I saw a Chinaman with rosy cheeks.

The invigorating effects of a northern climate were fully proven in the appearance of these people. They seemed to enjoy the roughest health, and were free from that care-worn look of the Chinese about Canton. They were clad more entirely than these also, and wore more of woollen in the material of their garments. Chow-chow appeared more abundant, and the children were the fattest little rascals I have ever seen. But I cannot commend them for cleanliness, and must admit that their countrymen nearer the sea make a better use of that cleansing element,—possibly because it was spread before them in larger quantities.

It was in the spring-time, in the "merrie month of May," when we approached Shanghae; every thing was in bloom. There had been the usual spring rains, and the weather had settled down to that delightful temperature, which has such a cheering effect upon the spirits. And as we dodged the tides in the winding Woo-Sung, spots would be descried which brought to mind some similar scenes at home: these would be pointed out. Another would find a resemblance in some grove, plantation, or clump of trees; and thus its banks were made sacred, and our Lares and Penates jostled the household gods that presided there.

FOOTNOTES:

[Footnote 8: An English tourist, who found himself upon the Yang-tse-Kiang, compared it with the Thames, admitting its superiority. I, as a Yankee, compare it with my own Mississippi; and place it next in rank to the "Father of waters," to which stream it hears some resemblance.]



CHAPTER XVI.

Shanghae—Immense number of Junks—Foreign Residences—Novelty of Chimneys—Revolting appearance of Beggars—Undertakers —Price of Coffins—Decline Trading—Description of City —Stagnant Pools—Tea Gardens—Sweet Site—The Taoutae— Advantages of Shanghae—Departure—Ship Ashore!—Sensation.

Shanghae is situated in about 30 deg. 26' N. latitude; longitude 120 deg. 48' East. Reached it on the 16th of May, and came to anchor about one mile below its walls, off the dwellings of the foreign residents. As we approached, were struck with the appearance of a forest of masts, belonging to junks in front of the city; in fact, these were all we could see, as they completely shut out a view of the city from our position.

Although suffering from sickness, could not resist the desire to get on shore, and accordingly landed amongst the residents' houses the first opportunity. These are built entirely in the European style, and some of them present a fine appearance. The climate in the winter season compelling the use of fire, they are all provided with chimneys, which was a feature remarkable at once, it being unusual on the southern coast. From these houses, as you approach the city, you enter upon a scene of filth and dirt indescribable, and have to pass through a line of beggars, who exhibit the most loathsome and revolting sores, to excite the pity of the passer-by.

In approaching the city, had to skirt a graveyard, where the coffins are placed above ground, and left there until their contents are decomposed, when they are removed, to make place for others. In the neighborhood are numerous coffin makers, and the trade appears to be thriving, from the numbers engaged at it. Our guide informed me that I could procure one of these "accommodations" at prices varying from five to five hundred dollars. I declined trading for them, however, considering that a negotiation to be entered into by "sorrowing friends."

Entered the city through a double gateway, having had to cross a fetid, shallow ditch before the walls.

Shanghae is a walled city, and in its appearance much like other Chinese towns, only it was more filthy than any I had yet visited. Crossed a number of stagnant pools, over bridges much too good for such stinking streams, being, in their architecture, entirely out of keeping with the other properties. Saw a great many Tea Gardens, where the tea was dispensed by the cup; and when a Chinaman called for a cup, it was perhaps in the same spirit that some of our country men demand a "smaller" of brandy, rum, or gin, though the Celestial certainly imbibes the least noxious potion. One of these gardens formed the centre of a stagnant pool, and was reached by bridges from different points. A fantastic-looking temple appeared the rendezvous, and upon the whole the effect would have been pleasing, but for that sickly green water.

Visited several shops, and made a few purchases of "curios" and was then perfectly satisfied to get out of such a filthy hole.

The day after his arrival, our commander and suite paid an official visit to the Taoutae,—Lead man of the district,—and was well received. The Chinese who held this office had been an old Hong merchant at Canton. He gave the entertainment in the European style; and from having consorted so much with "Fankwies," in his former capacity, he was quite at home; but you may depend upon it, it is always with much reluctance that these Celestial citizens of the Central Flowery Land dispense with any of their customs in our favor; and when they do condescend to lay aside their chop-sticks, and use the knife and fork, there is policy in it. What was the object in this instance, further than to honor a nation where "gold grows," I did not ascertain. But we have undoubtedly risen greatly in their estimation since the acquisition of California, and the appearance of our magnificent clipper ships in their waters.

The day following His Excellency, the Taoutae, sent on board numerous presents, amongst which were some early fruit, sweetmeats, and two very fine sheep. These latter, of the celebrated Shanghae breed, were the finest specimens I have seen for a long time; and the most striking peculiarity about them was the preponderance of fat to their caudal extremities, the tail of each being of an entirely different formation from that of the European breed; and I can compare it to nothing better than an immense woolly mop, "in the place where the tail ought to grow." I do not know if any of these sheep have ever been imported into the United States, or whether they would endure the voyage, but understood the stock is not considered equal to our own. These certainly were covered with heavy coats of wool: of its quality I was unable to judge, having confined my examination entirely to what lay beneath, which I can unhesitatingly pronounce to be as good mutton as I had ever eaten.

A very short stay, and an attack of sickness, prevented me from exploring much of Shanghae, or its environs, and I learned there are a thousand things worth seeing.

The Chinese call this province the Paradise of China, and if I am not mistaken, the word has this signification when interpreted: and they have a proverb, which runs in this wise: "See Shanghae, and die." I came very near acting up to their advice, for after seeing what is previously written, I was taken seriously ill; so that, had our stay been prolonged, I would have been unable to have gone on shore, unless, indeed, in one of their fancy coffins!

Learned, however, from one of the officers of Her Majesty's brig "Contest," who had been stationed here some time, that the climate is delightful to those who are able to withstand the cold of the winters; that the features of the country have not been misstated, but are equal to any representation made; that game is at all times abundant, especially in autumn, when fine sport is to be obtained by those who handle "mantons" with even moderate skill; furthermore, the followers of quaint old Isaac, the ancient angler, need but a tithe of his art to tempt the piscatory tribe from their native element. But he did affirm that in midsummer, the mercury in the tube scarcely ever gets below 100 deg. Fahrenheit, and the action of the sun's rays upon the stagnant water before-named, gives such an intimation to the nostrils of the state of the atmosphere, as to render the use of the eudiometer unnecessary.

Got under way from our moorings early in the morning of Monday the 19th, and dropped down with the tide; getting out of the Woo-Sung, anchored in the Yang-tse-Kiang, on the 20th, passed Saddle Island, and dismissing the pilot, headed for Amoy, at which port we were to look in on our return.

We had proceeded along pretty well until the morning of the 27th, when about three o'clock in the morning watch, as I was lying awake in my apartment, heard the officer of the deck give the order for tacking ship—"Ready about"—and after the boatswain's pipe to "Stations." "Ready, ready," when she received a shock, as from the concussion of a heavy sea, then another, and another, which soon convinced me that the ship was ashore. This was certainly unpleasant, as I had no doubt but that we were at that time twenty miles from land, and the idea of a coral reef in that position, was premonitory of a salt-water bath. Before the call of "All hands save ship," was given, I was upon deck, and found that she had grounded upon a bank on the northern coast of the island of Formosa, having been swept by an unusual current over thirty miles in the course of twelve hours, an event altogether unlooked for, and which would have baffled the skill of the most experienced navigator; our chart, upon examination, also proving to be incorrect. Luckily it was ebb tide when she went on, and after getting out all the boats, and lightening the ship by throwing overboard shot and starting water, she was got off, after having been aground about eight hours, and thumping terribly.

It was the first time I had ever felt the effects of a heavy sea upon a ship ashore, and never wish to experience them again.

With our armament and stores we were probably as heavily laden as a merchant vessel of greater tonnage would have been with cargo, but being more strongly built, were of course better able to withstand the shocks.

Every time she struck, the top-gallant masts would sway like saplings, and the ship tremble throughout her whole frame, indeed, a homely remark of one of her crew was very expressive of her condition: "Why the old ship has got the hiccups," and her motions were truly resembling those of a human being in convulsive throes.

Notwithstanding we got off so easily, yet our situation had in it much of peril, and we were at one time in some danger.

The inhabitants of this part of Formosa are savages, some say cannibals. They had gathered in great numbers on the beach, some two or three thousands, and appeared divided into different clans, awaiting our breaking up. Had we fallen into their hands, defenceless, there was but little chance of escaping, so greatly did they outnumber our crew.

As it was, we got off barely in time, for it commenced to "blow great guns" about the time we got afloat, which created such a sea as would soon have knocked us to pieces, and even before we had way on, the surf was beating so violently upon the beach, as to have precluded all possibility of reaching the shore in an armed body.

Under double-reefed topsails we beat over to Amoy, and the next morning made the entrance to that port, but had to stand off and on the whole day and night, the sea being so high as to make it dangerous to attempt to enter the harbor.



CHAPTER XVII.

Amoy—Its Trade—Cause of Decay—Infanticide—Manner of destroying Female Infants—China Woman's Confession— Environs—British and American Cemeteries—The Fatal Rock—Koo-lung-Seu—Chinese Gunnery—Chinese Customs— Marriage—Death—Manner of Mourning—Pagoda of Nan-tae-Woo-Shan.

On the morning of the 29th of May, came into the port of Amoy and anchored. Communicated with our Consul, who stated that our commerce was very small at that point, and although it is connected with the tea district, but five American vessels had entered the port for the past two years.

Of all the "five ports," Amoy appears to have the least foreign trade, and notwithstanding its contiguity to the region of China, in which its principal article of export is produced, enjoys but little commerce.

This is in a measure to be attributed to the difficulty of entering its bay at all seasons, but is mainly caused by the apathy and lack of enterprise of its inhabitants. They appear to be less disposed to trade with foreigners than any other Chinese we visited, and in their shops were perfectly indifferent whether we became purchasers or not, using no exertions to effect sales. This was so opposite to what we had always found to be a prominent feature of Chinese character as to excite remark. In Canton, Macao, and Shanghae, they had pressed their wares upon us, but in Amoy you might examine the contents of a shop, without being importuned to purchase a single article.

The principal trade appeared to be in opium. There were two receiving ships in the bay, and from the general appearance of the people, would be led to suppose that a great deal of it was smoked by them, and this accounted for their apathy and want of energy.

It must end so, that this opium trade will be the ruin of China, for in its use it not only enervates the people, but it is procured by draining the country of the precious metals, and it may be fairly stated, that for every ounce of opium brought into the country, nearly its weight in Sycee silver has been extracted.

The town of Amoy presents the same features as Shanghae, and other Chinese cities: streets narrow and filthy, and dirt abundant, an equal number of offensive smells pervade the atmosphere, and as many disgusting sights offend the eye; beggars, to be sure, are not so common as at Shanghae, but the inhabitants have a squalid look, as if too lazy to beg. Infanticide—or if I may be allowed to coin a word for this peculiar kind of child murder on account of its being confined entirely to the female sex—"Puellacide" is said to prevail to a greater extent in this region than even in Canton itself. Whilst sons are considered an honor, and their growth looked upon as a matter of profit, the giving birth to a daughter is proportionably a disgrace, and the rearing of it a disadvantage, consequently the female infant is generally allowed but a few moments existence in "this breathing world," and is usually strangled by the hands of its unnatural mother immediately upon its birth. The manner in which this act is said to be performed, is by filling up the mouth of the babe with rice, and holding its nostrils closed with the hand until suffocation is produced.

It is hard to suppose that a mother can thus act towards her offspring, but it is known to be too true, and it may be a better fate than is reserved for many of the sex whose lives have been spared, for so useless an incumbrance are females considered in the families of the lower orders, and so little regard have their parents for them, that even before they grow up, they are often sold for the worst purposes.

A Chinese woman, who had been converted to Christianity, confessed, that in her ignorance, she had destroyed seven of her own infants, females of course, not considering the custom of her country, at that time, a crime.

Although there is but little to interest one in the town of Amoy, there are several pleasant places in its vicinity. Yet every where appeared the evidence of "decay's effacing fingers." On the opposite side of the bay was once a flourishing site, which previous to the attack of the English had been the residence of the wealthier citizens, mandarins, etc. When the British troops invested this place, they occupied these buildings as barracks; and being withdrawn after the treaty, left them in a ruinous condition. They have not been used since, and the large gardens, evidently at one time cultivated with much taste, have now run to waste. In these were romantic grottoes, in which are curiously carved resting-places, cut out of the rock.

The English burial ground is in this neighborhood; it is a small place, and walled in. The mortality amongst the troops was very great during the occupancy of this place, and this area is said to contain over a regiment of soldiers.

The American cemetery is more prepossessing in appearance. It is situated in a picturesque valley, full of beautiful trees, and did not contain many graves. From it there is a fine view of the bay and islands, and the city of Amoy.

In crossing the bay on our return, there was pointed out a singularly shaped rock in height about thirty feet, with a narrow base, and swelling out as it ascended, in appearance similar to a boy's top. The Chinese have a startling prophecy connected with it, which is, that when it shall fall, the present dynasty of China will also decline; reminding one of the Latin saying, "When falls the Coliseum, Rome shall fall." But Rome has fallen, and the Coliseum still stands! Will the parallel hold good between this rock and China? The island of Koo-lung-Seu, when the British made the attack upon Amoy, appears to have been well fortified, but the Chinese committed a great error in the training of their guns, or rather in placing them so as to have been unable to take any other range than point blank! Here is a fort mounting upwards of fifty guns of large calibre, which would have commanded the bay, but the embrasures are so small as barely to admit the muzzle of the gun, the breech of which was imbedded in the earth. These were soon silenced, as may well be supposed, by the attacking squadron taking a position beyond their range, and training their own batteries to bear upon the Chinese gunners within, who kept blazing away into the unresisting air, whilst the British riddled the fort at leisure. The mandarin in charge, a Tartar, who would not be caught, drowned himself.

From Mr. Bradley, our intelligent Consul at Amoy, who appears to have devoted much time to the study of the Chinese and their customs, obtained a great deal of information respecting them.

In regard to marriages, he stated, that when a Chinaman considers himself rich enough to take a wife, he informs the object of his choice by letter, which is usually a sheet of paper some five or six feet in length; this is shown to her parents, and if the match is thought a proper one, she is allowed to make known her compliance in a billet-doux of equal proportions. After this interchange, the father of the selected fair calls upon the proposing party to arrange preliminaries, amongst not the least important of which is the payment of a sum of money agreed upon between them; this fund is supposed to be for the furnishing of the bride.

The happy day is then appointed, and when it arrives a plentiful supply of edibles flows in from the friends of both families to the house of the bridegroom; from whence are dispatched a number of his friends to carry the bride to her future home; by these she is borne along in a sedan chair, closely veiled, accompanied by music, and is received by her future "lord and master" seated in state, and surrounded by the tablets of his ancestors; then for the first time in his life he beholds the face of the woman of his choice!

The marriage being consummated, three days succeeding are devoted to festivities.

When a woman has been so unfortunate as to become a widow, especially without male issue, she testifies her grief in every imaginable manner, filling the air with her lamentations, tearing her loosened hair, and giving all the demonstrations of the deepest sorrow. At each meal food is placed at the accustomed seat, and the absentee is entreated to return and partake in the most endearing terms. This is continued for a season, when, as if tired of entreaty so unavailingly lavished, and in the true spirit of her sex, the widow changes her tune, and commences to abuse the "dear departed." For one year this practice is kept up, after that, twice a month for three years; then only upon the anniversary of his death. Have not been apprised of any success having attended these applications, or whether the applicants were sincere in their expressions; but am rather inclined to doubt the sincerity of the mourner, excepting in cases where male issue is desired, and then their grief has a selfish motive.

There was an instance in a Chinese house opposite the Consulate, where a woman, who had been deprived of her partner by death, a short time previously, was calling him to breakfast, and deprecating his delay in no measured terms.

The Pagoda, or tower of Nan-tae-Woo-Shan, is a conspicuous object near Amoy. It is one thousand seven hundred and twenty-eight feet above the level of the sea, and an excellent mark for vessels making the harbor.



CHAPTER XVIII.

Formosa—Description of the Island—Its productions—Coal Mines—Metals—The Dutch Possessions—Their Expulsion—Proper policy of Civilized Powers.

The island of Formosa—from going on which we so narrowly escaped—is destined from its position and importance, to become, at a time not long future, a place of considerable trade for both Europeans and Americans, as it is now indeed with the Chinese of the neighboring provinces of Fo-Kien and Che-Kiang on the main land.

As its name implies, it is a "beautiful" island, especially on its southern extremity, which has been described as a fruitful garden, producing delicious fruits and grain of every description, and exporting vast quantities of rice, sugar, tobacco, and camphor.

The Chinese call it Te-wan; it extends between the degrees of twenty and twenty-six north latitude, is about fifty miles wide, and is separated from the province of Foo-Kien, of which it is a dependency, by a channel of from eighty to ninety miles in breadth.

It is equidistant from Japan and the Philippine Islands, being about one hundred and fifty miles from each, and appears to have been placed directly in the highway of commerce.

As yet it has been but little explored, and of its harbors, with the exception of Kelung, not much is known. This harbor is on its northern extremity, in latitude 25 deg. 9' north of Greenwich, by a late observation. There is a good anchorage here for vessels drawing not over sixteen feet, and water and supplies can be obtained from the town, which contains about two thousand inhabitants, said to be very civil and obliging. They are principally engaged in fishing and the cultivation of the land, which is set down as luxuriant in the extreme.

Coal is said to be very abundant in this neighborhood, and many excavations have been made in the surrounding hills, some of them having been tunnelled over forty feet, and a distinct stratum exhibited of about four feet thick, hard and easily detached, lying between blue soft shale and sandstone. The quality of this coal was described by a person who visited the mines, to be very good, heavy, easily detached, igniting readily, and burning with a bituminous gassy flame, leaving a very small quantity of ashes of a reddish white color. From specimens which I have seen, do not suppose it equal to the English Cannel or our own Pittsburgh; but have known coal of a not much superior quality to have been produced from the first workings of mines in the valley of the Ohio, and who can say but that much better veins exist, of which these are but the openings?

In this however does not consist entirely the mineral wealth of this prolific island, and in the range of mountains which run through its centre is found gold and silver, iron ore and copper. Whilst in the valleys at their feet, the labors of the husbandman are bountifully rewarded in extensive crops of sugar and rice, so easily produced from the luxuriant soil of a southern latitude.

The Pang-hoo or Pescadore Islands, which lie between it and the province of Foo-Kien, compose with Formosa, one Foo, or department of that province, and are subject to its Foo-yuen or Governor. These dependencies are divided into six districts, five of which are within the limits of Formosa, the sixth comprising the Pescadore Islands.

But although the Chinese government asserts supremacy over Formosa, and subjects its inhabitants to tribute, yet amongst the aborigines are several tribes, which it has never been able to subdue, and who as yet successfully dispute its authority, overrun the peaceably disposed districts, and prevent this extensive island from being more thoroughly explored, and its vast resources fully developed. It was upon their inhospitable shore that we came near being cast, and from their tender mercies made so narrow an escape.

In the year 1624, the Dutch, being then powerful at sea, made an attack upon the Portuguese settlement at Macao; from which being repulsed, their Admiral sought refuge on Formosa, and taking possession of the Pescadore Islands, attacked Chinese junks, trading in those waters, and plundering them, disposed of their cargoes on the neighboring island of Japan.

By permission from the reigning dynasty of China, then tottering to its fall, they were allowed to establish a factory on the S. W. coast of Formosa, where they erected a fort, which they named Fort Zealand. This settlement became quite flourishing, from the fact that the disturbances on the main land drove numbers of the more peaceably disposed Chinese to the security of this new retreat on the beautiful island.

A number of Spaniards from Manilla, noting the advantageous position of the island, attempted a settlement on its northern side, but it was soon broken up by the Dutch, who drove them away, and held undisputed sway over it until 1644, when the Tartars conquered China, who naturally becoming jealous of this band of foreigners so near their shores, made arrangements with the celebrated Coxinga—son of him who had been educated by the Portuguese and baptized Nicholas—to repair to Formosa, and root out this growing power.

Having, by professions of peace, induced the Dutch Admiral sent for its protection to withdraw his forces and return to Batavia, he approached the settlement with a large force, and landing, was immediately joined by his countrymen the Chinese who had emigrated thither. With these added to his command, Coxinga demanded Formosa from the Dutch, requiring them to depart at once or "hoist the red flag," that is, prepare to fight. This they did, and after sustaining a siege of nine months, surrendered the fort, and were allowed to proceed to Java.

Had they conciliated the Chinese, who had come to live amongst them, they might have had their support, and retained possession of the island, but by barbarous treatment they had alienated them, so that Coxinga found in them willing allies.

Since the expulsion of the Dutch, there has been no attempt at settlement on this desirable island by any European power; which, when its fertility and position are considered, is somewhat remarkable. As I have before stated, its productions are distributed by Chinese junks, of which between two and three hundred are engaged in carrying rice to the neighboring provinces, and nearly one hundred are said to be employed in transporting the article of sugar alone to one single port in China, that of Tein-tsin. The trade between it and Canton is also said to be considerable, camphor being the principal export thence.

But if gain will not induce civilized powers to occupy this as yet undeveloped island, the cause of humanity should interest some such maritime nation as England or America, to at least chastise those barbarous savages who overrun its eastern shores; it is from these that many a peaceful mariner, coasting them in trading voyages, having been caught in those dreadful Typhoons which ravage those seas, and thrown helpless into their hands, has met with a cruel and torturing death, and from the fact of numberless shipwrecks along that coast, of which no survivors have remained, it is but fair to judge that the hapless crews have only escaped the angry waters, to meet a more violent end on these inhospitable shores. An instance occurred in the crew of the "Larpent," an English merchant vessel, which went ashore here, about the time we passed the island, of which but four escaped, and these by a miracle. They saw their unfortunate shipmates lanced, and decapitated, and themselves, being hotly pursued, escaped in their boat, and landing at a point unobserved, were, whilst pushing their way to the interior, captured and sold as slaves, from which condition they were released by a chief from another part of the island, and put on board the "Antelope," an opium clipper, which brought them to Shanghae.



CHAPTER XIX.

Leave Amoy—Arrive in Macao Roads—Live ashore—Well guarded —Night calls—Ventriloquist at Typa Fort—Ordered on board —Up to Whampoa—Clipper Ships—Over to Hong-Kong—Coronation day—Independence day—Hurried on board—The mail—Ty-foongs.

Came to anchor in Macao Roads on the 4th of June, having made the passage to Shanghae and back in just forty days, including stoppage there, at Amoy, and delay from getting aground on Formosa.

Left Amoy on the 31st of May, and ran down the coast with favoring breezes, nothing worth noting having occurred since our departure from the latter port.

Went ashore on the first opportunity, and found there awaiting our arrival several letters and packages of newspapers, which had reached by overland mail during our absence. This was indeed a treat, and repaid us for all the inconveniences of our voyage. A good piece of news also was received, to wit, that there was a probability of our leaving the station for home in the fall.

Suffering still from sickness, I was allowed to take up my lodgings on shore, and duly installed myself in apartments No. 7, Senate Square, where I witnessed the Governor's daily visit to the Senate house, and the relieving of the guard; but as all situations have their drawbacks, was greatly annoyed by the unearthly noises made by the sentries during the night. Not a person could pass, but he was hailed, and every half hour I was awakened by the guard yelling out some unintelligible words, which were caught up in every direction, in the most discordant tones, until echo herself grew hoarse and disgusted with the repetition. I was well guarded to be sure, but could have dispensed with the attention, and would have bargained for less honor, with an equal diminution of noise!

The Portuguese lay great stress upon these night calls; and at the Typa fort, where we lay, which but two or three soldiers garrison, it was said they had a ventriloquist, who sent the word Alerto, with various changes, throughout the works.

After one week's residence en grand seigneur, was obliged to give up my casa, and repair on board. Orders being to go up to Whampoa, about the confounded insurrection.

On the seventeenth of June, came to anchor in the "Reach" again, and found every thing as usual there, the standing joke of the Chinese having taken Canton not being realized.

Saw there some of the first of those Yankee clippers that have since almost monopolized the China carrying trade. The "Sea Serpent," bound for the United States, passed close to us, and a magnificent specimen of naval architecture she was. She excited a strong yearning for home, and gladly would I have exchanged on board of her.

These clippers, I then noted, were to effect a change in East Indiamen, such as would have been hooted at ten years ago. Then, speed was a secondary consideration, and capacity for carrying deemed the sine qua non. Now, speed is the object; and it has been proved, that in making quick trips, with a lesser cargo, in suitable seasons, the advantage is greater than in freighting larger vessels, that in consequence of their greater capacity sail slower.

The anniversary of our arrival in China came round whilst we lay at Whampoa, and I celebrated it by a trip to Canton, to make an official call upon our Charge d'Affaires, and returned the same day.

Our only amusements here were strolling over the hills, and sauntering through Bamboo and Newtown—the novelty of which places having some time worn off—and passing away the evening at the bowling alleys, and billiard room, where prices were high and refreshments execrable. However, here we got exercise even at a high rate; and this exercise is considered so desirable, that persons from Canton—a distance of ten miles—resort to this place.

From Whampoa departed for Hong-Kong, where found a number of old friends. We arrived there upon Coronation day, which was being celebrated with all honor. The Queen—God bless her!—was toasted, and the healths of the King consort, and all the royal family drunk. In the evening, the devotion of her loyal subjects was expended in a brilliant display of fireworks, which was untimely quenched by a sudden shower.

Celebrated our own "Independence day" for the second time in China, whilst we lay in the harbor of Hong-Kong; and H. B. M. frigate Cleopatra, and brig Lily, were dressed, and fired national salutes with us;—a pretty compliment, and as it should be. An editor in Hong-Kong made it the subject of unseemly remark, but am confident he had not the countenance of one of his subscribers. A dinner was given in honor of the occasion at our Consul's. It was a splendid affair, several lady residents of Hong-Kong gracing the board with their presence. The gentlemen kept it up long after they had retired, and the union of the States was cemented,—representatives from nearly all being present,—amongst the hours

"Ayont the twal."

We lay at anchor off Hong-Kong until the eleventh of July, when received orders to proceed over to Macao, and join our consort there. I was out of the ship when the orders came, and of course knew nothing about them; had spent the evening on board H. M. S. S. Minden, where I occupied the state-room of an absent officer, an acquaintance. The next morning, whilst breakfasting, my attention was directed, through the port, to some unusual movement on board our ship; such as a boat being dispatched to the Cleopatra, sending aloft topgallant yards, and unshipping the companion ladder. This last movement was decisive. Sailing orders must be on: and bringing my meal to a hasty conclusion, got on board to find the messenger shipped, and all hands heaving away at the capstan. Soon we had sail on, and I did not get on board a minute too soon to secure a passage to Macao.

After reaching that port, and concluding the business for which we had been summoned, received permission to exchange our rolling and pitching in the outer roads, for the snug and quiet anchorage in the Typa; and our old pleasant trips to the shore were again resumed: rambles along the Governor's Road, and over the hills, filling up the afternoons of "liberty days," and suppers at "Frank's"—Hotel—at night adding considerably to the amount of monthly mess bills.

The arrival of the mail was always an event with us; and this month—August—it reached Macao unusually early, having been received on the eighth day: just fifty-eight days from New-York. I do not know what we would have done without this mail, the anticipation of its arrival keeping our minds occupied, and the business of answering letters and mailing them filling up the monthly intervals. We closed our correspondence in the last week of the month, expecting dates from home during the first week of the next.

Whilst we lay in the Typa had strong indications of a Ty-foong, but it passed over with some bad weather, high winds, and squalls. Felt perfectly secure at our anchorage, but used the precaution of bending the sheet-cables, sending down yards, and housing topgallant-masts. As it was, had considerable of a blow, and the Ty-foong ravaged the coasts in our vicinity.

The Ty-foong of the East is synonymous with the hurricane or tornado of the West Indies, as the monsoon may be said to assimilate with the trade-winds of the opposite hemisphere; but this "strong wind" blows with even more violence, and has a circular motion. Ships have had their masts bodily twisted out of them, and many, more unfortunate, have been ingulfed in the maelstrom created by its fury. From its veering so suddenly to every point of the compass, the usual precautions against ordinary gales afford but little protection. A heavy, boding swell precedes, to give notice of the dreaded Ty-foong. The aquatic birds, with natural instinct, take wing and fly before its approach; whilst on shore the air is filled with insects in constant motion. So indicative, indeed, is this flight of insects, that the Chinese call them Ty-foong Bugs.

The inhabitants predicate the recursion of these storms by numerous other signs, and are prompt to take every precaution to avoid their effects. At Macao, upon this occasion, the proprietors of the "Tanka" and "pull away" boats drew them on shore, some distance from the landing, and close to the houses. In these, the boat folk, men, women, and children, stowed themselves away, prepared to weather the Ty-foong. The walls of the dwellings on the Praya forming a good lee, they lashed their boats as well as they were able, and secured the bamboo coverings. Not a boatman could be prevailed upon to launch his craft for love or money. Some of them, indeed, from the habit of their profession, would say, "Suppose have give ten, twelve dollar, so;" but if you appeared for an instant to incline to their extortionate demand, they would at once change their tune, and shaking both head and tail,—please to remember that Chinese boatmen have tails to their heads,—cry out, with deprecatory gestures, "Ei-yah! how can make walkee? my tinkee can catchee too muchee Ti-fung!" and then slide back beneath their bamboo shelter, with a decisive "No can!"

The season when Ty-foongs generally prevail in these latitudes,—and it is only within a few degrees upon these coasts that they rage,—is between July and October, inclusive of those months. They form a serious impediment to the navigation of the China Sea, almost amounting to its obstruction at this period; for the inducement must be great to encounter such a risk. H. B. M. ship Hastings experienced a severe one late in October, and the new American clipper ship "Witchcraft," came into Victoria harbor on the third of December, 1851, having encountered a strong Tyfoong in 142 deg. east, which carried away all her topmasts, and jib-boom, narrowly escaping going down. Both these vessels were caught unexpectedly, neither expecting to find Ty-foongs in the latitudes in which they were at that season of the year.



CHAPTER XX.

Ty-foong passed—Pleasant Season—Theatrical Exhibition—The Macaense—Philharmonic Society—Italian Opera—Awaiting Orders for Home—Thoughts of Home and Friends—Idea suggested by the Setting Sun—Poetry—Maladie de Pays—Its effects upon the Swiss—A Remedy—My own Experience—And manner of Cure.

The symptoms of the Ty-foong having passed over, and all fears of its recurrence at an end, time went pleasantly by at Macao. The temperature was most delightful, this season being certainly the most agreeable in this part of China, a number of foreign residents from Canton and Hong-Kong adding to its gayety.

The Portuguese officers, aided by the citizens, got up for our amusement a theatrical exhibition, at the old rooms formerly occupied by the Philharmonic Society. The representations were very good, and the accommodations for the audience excellent. Saw the elite of Macao at these performances, and must say the Macaense are not without a goodly share of female beauty, although it is not apparent upon all occasions, for the decline of the place has affected the finances of the families, and their pride will not allow them to exhibit their poverty upon common occasions, not that there was any evidence of it here, for the ladies were all richly as well as tastily dressed.

It is perhaps not generally known that opera once flourished in Macao. An Italian company, who had carried their "sweet voices" around the world, once made these walls vocal with the music of Donnizetti, Bellini, and others of their great maestros, and "Lucia di Lammermoor" lamented her lost love, and the amiable Amina sobbed forth her somnambulic sorrows for her false lover, upon these very boards.

The performance given upon this occasion was not in opera, but dramatic, something about the troubles of a Jew—not le Juif Errant—although this member of his tribe was off and on sufficiently to have given him a claim to this title.

An interval, filled up by promenading to some pretty good music, was succeeded by a funny farce, which sent the audience laughing to their beds.

We awaited here the arrival of the Commodore, whom we had heard was to bring us our release, and send us home immediately upon his reaching the station. Had not a full view of the part of the horizon from which the flagship might be expected to emerge, but many were the glasses directed to the mouth of the Typa, from which a glimpse of the ocean could be gained, and the quarter-masters of each watch were repeatedly ordered to keep a good look-out. The fact was, we were getting tired of China, and despite all the kind favors showered upon us, longed for home:

"Breathes there a man with soul so dead, Who never to himself has said: This is my own—my native land!"

And thoughts of home and dear ones there, would intrude, and strong desires once more to tread the soil of that loved native land, and to press the hands of early and long-tried friends, could not be entirely repressed, although not altogether just to "those we had here."

But we had been now nearly two years absent. Two years on shipboard is a long, a very long time—try it if you doubt—and had seen nearly all that was worthy of observation within our reach. Seas of immense extent rolled between us and our homes, and the circumference of the globe had to be traversed ere we could expect to meet our friends. No wonder then that we so ardently desired to be allowed to point our prow towards the West, or watching the retiring beams of the setting sun, envied that orb the privilege that action gave, of kissing eyelids and gazing into eyes, on which we were wont to gaze "lang syne," nor under the influence of such thoughts that we should give them vent in this manner:

"Farewell, my love, the evening gun Has boomed in echo o'er the sea; My soul goes with that sinking sun, Which sheds its rising beams on thee.

"May it bring to thee peace and joy, Tho' here, it care and darkness leaves; For gloomy thoughts my soul employ, Which now no light from thine receives.

"Oh, for one old accustomed smile! That dark eye's glance of lustrous light; But these are distant many a mile, And I can only sigh—Good Night!

"Good night, my love, whilst darkness lowers Around our lone and silent bark, Morning smiles sweetly on thy bowers, And greeting, upwards flies the lark.

"Thou art the sun that glads my way, Thine eye the beam of life to me, Thy smile can turn my night to day, As upwards speeds my soul to thee."

I have before explained the causes which operated upon me to produce such effects as above, and hope the reader, if ever he or she should have been afflicted in either of the ways I have mentioned, will at least tolerate the method of alleviation.

This "maladie-de-pays" is a horrible sensation, worse than sea-sickness, I ween, and I can fully sympathize with the poor Swiss, who are said to have fallen victims to it in the armies of Napoleon. He should have allowed pens, ink, and any quantity of writing paper; they might have relieved their minds by scribbling. Music is also said to be a capital cure, although the "Ranz des Vaches" did not succeed; but I judge from the cheerful countenances of those of their countrymen who are in the habit of parading our streets with a hand organ and monkey, and enlivening us with the air of

"Arouse thee, arouse thee, my merry Swiss boy."

For myself I have only experienced the malady twice. The first attack occurred, when with a heart rather more tender than at the present writing, I was left amongst a parcel of strange inquisitive boys, at a boarding-school in the country, at what then appeared to my unsophisticated mind away "'tother side of yonder;"—I shall never forget, although I may laugh at it now, the feeling of utter desolateness that came over me, or how low sank my little heart, even to the very soles of my stockings, when the Dominie, whose face was fast forgetting the smiles it had worn in my good parents' presence, inquired in a tone half hypocritical, half ironical: "What does the young gentleman want now?" and I blubberingly answered, "I—want—to—go—go—home." I recovered from that attack with the aid of counter irritation by the application of birch, and emollients in the shape of scribbling verses to the metre of "dulce—dulce domum." The effects of the second are now before the reader, from which I opine he is the greatest sufferer, and this is dispersed by music, for the "retreat" has just been beaten, and I shall turn in.



CHAPTER XXI.

Haul up all standing—Boat Races—Interest in the sport— Excitement general—Arrangements—Jockeyism—Regatta— Preparations—The Start—The Race—The Result—Launch and First Cutter—Race described con-amore—Suggestion of an Old Salt—Satan and Sailors.

But I must cease my digressions, lest my sickness become epidemic, and extend to my readers, in which event I should fear they would not be "at home" to me. To continue:

To fill up the time, and give some relaxation to the men, had boat races between the different crews in the "Typa."

It was surprising to see with what interest the sailors entered into the sport, and the excitement produced by the contests; bets ran high amongst them, and Tattersalls, previous to the great St. Leger Stake, could not produce a greater scene of excitement than did our top-gallant forecastle and forward gangways, during the preparations for a race; the claims of different candidates for an oar would be carefully canvassed, and the coxswains became, for the nonce, men of vast importance, for upon their ipse dixit in selecting the crews, the success of the boats was thought mainly to depend. Then the non-combatants had their favorite boats and men, and their suggestions would be strongly urged.

The enthusiasm even extended to the officers, and produced an excitement as deep, if not so loud, upon the quarter deck and poop. Sums were raised amongst them, and set up as prizes for the crew of the winning boat, and suppers on shore, and segars in hand, hung upon the success of the second or third cutters—the first cutter and the launch.

Every plan known to experienced boatmen was resorted to; every unnecessary impediment that could offer the slightest obstruction removed; the bottoms of the boats, after having been well scraped, were secretly greased, and the pintals of the rudder carefully oiled, the weight of the oars well calculated, and the trim of the boats arranged by placing breakers of water fore, aft, or amidships, as it was thought their weight might be required to give a proper balance.

The oars, too, were carefully overhauled, scraped, pointed, and newly leathered; the rowlocks, in which they were to be placed, arranged, and nothing that skill or experience could suggest, was neglected to secure success.

Preparation for the race.—The hour big with fate to the crews of the second and third cutters approached. One bell in the afternoon watch had been struck, and preparations commenced. The respective crews having taken the lightest kind of a dinner, divested themselves of all unnecessary clothing, tied handkerchiefs around their heads, and making their belts taut around their bodies, stood by, ready for a call. The boats, their oars all in, and extra ones secured handily to the gunwales, in case of accident, with a coxswain in each, lay at either of the booms,—second cutter on starboard, third on the port side; and the arrangement was that they should both lay upon their oars and await the signal, which was to be the dropping of a handkerchief by the umpire, who was first to see that neither had the advantage. A few minutes before two bells, the boatswain's mate piped away the crews, and they descended into their respective boats by the booms.

The start.—After being seated, and having peaked their oars by way of a salute, the order was given to "let fall;" splash went their oars into the water, and anxiety was depicted upon every countenance. "Take your stations"—"Back your oars, third cutters"—"Steady there, second cutters," were the orders given and repeated with only an alteration in the titles of the boats, as the crew of each with a natural impulse strove to prevent the other from stealing a length upon them; from this impatience it was found impossible to make their position exactly relative; but at last the handkerchief was dropped, and off they shot with the velocity of arrows from a bow, the second cutter having the advantage of half a length in the start.

The race.—The distance to be rowed was one mile and a half to a stake boat, round that, and back. The prize, a bag containing sixty-four dollars, suspended from an oar in the stake boat. The second cutter having the start, kept the distance open between her and her competitor (now extended a full length), which pulled up steadily in her wake; the coxswain of the leading boat dexterously anticipating all his pursuer's efforts to pass, and keeping him dead in his wake until they had shot over half the distance between the ship and the stake boat, when, by a desperate effort, the third cutter appeared to leap bodily out of the water, her oars quivering like the wings of a bird, from the impulse given by those muscular arms. Side by side, their oars almost overlapping, they dashed like the wind towards the prize. Now came the tug—a single tarpauling would at one moment have covered them both and retained its position, so steadily did they pull; it was apparently a tie, when an unusual movement was observed on board the third cutter.

The result—This was caused by the breaking of the bow oar, which snapping short off, dropped into the water, and fouled the starboard oars; not an instant was spent in shipping another, but the advantage had been lost. The second cutter, with her full power, shot ahead, rounded the stake boat and led the way back; her opponent recovering from the accident, and following so closely, that the two appeared like one boat of unusual length as they approached; but the struggle was unequal. Two third cutters, unable to stand the additional labor, gave out. The flag was hauled down from the fore as the second cutter passed the line, and the third, contending to the last, came in about three boats' lengths astern.

The next race was between the launch and the first cutter; the launch, a heavy boat, called by sailors the "Purser's Gig," pulling sixteen oars; first cutter, a fast craft, with a crack crew, pulling just eight. This was the race of the Regatta, and excited much interest. Various were the opinions as to the result, and to use a phrase of the turf, "bets were even;" not that any serious amounts of money were risked, for that would have been "contra bonos mores;" but several suppers and sundry boxes of segars hung on the balance.

Both the boats were put in capital order, and the crews of both were sanguine of success. The launchers depended upon the power they possessed in a double bank of oars; the first cutters upon the qualities and lightness of their boat. Impelled by these hopes, they started. I happened to be in the launch; we took the lead after a fair start, and led the cutter around the stake boat, a distance of more than a mile; but that which had given the launch a great advantage on the first stretch, proved a serious drawback on her return, the prevalence of a very high wind, which increasing, kicked up a tremendous sea, and causing her to roll and pitch, very much deadened her headway. Gradually the first cutter crawled up; gallantly the launchers contested the space they had gained. "Give way, lads! give way, they're gaining on us!" and the oars bent like willows in the hands of the hardy launchers; but in vain this expenditure of strength; one half of it was lost in a heavy lurch, which sent the starboard oars glancing in the sunbeams, dripping salt tears from their blades into the exulting wave, and nearly unseating the men. Like the Giselle, the agile cutter skips alongside. "Pull steadily now, men!" "Pull with a will!" It is vain; side by side we plunge, but the cutter evidently gains; a glimpse of blue sky is apparent at the back of her steerer; it increases; the slanting beams of the setting sun shines full in our eyes. It is noticed by the crew—sailors are superstitious, and their hopes sink with the sun; "But it will rise again! Give way, boys, give way! we'll beat them yet!" Again they put forth all their power, and the bow oars nearly touch. But the wind increases, the sea rises, a heavy swell knocks us back from the vantage we had gained. The third cutter, buoyant as a cork, perches an instant on the crest of a wave, and then rushes down its opposite side with a cheer from its crew. The race was to the swift, but "the battle was not to the strong;" the "Purser's Gig" was distanced.

But, if the launch had been beaten, its crew were not conquered, and the coxswain, old Andrews, captain of the forecastle, who, with a picked crew, would have undertaken to have pulled the boat across his own maelstrom, offered his whack—the sum to his credit on the purser's books, on his discharge,—against a plug of tobacco,—upon the issue, in moderately smooth water; whilst I, with others, had not lost confidence in the strong arms that impelled the "purser's gig;" although I did not incline to make one of her crew in a contest in which old A. proposed to beat the devil, on his own lake of fiery brimstone, with his favorite launch; but A. was excited by the race, and had got a tot of a mixture which assimilated to that "fire water," and forgot that his boat was not framed of asbestos; besides, I fear he held his satanic majesty slightly in contempt from the nautical notion that he possesses power over sailors no more within his dominions.



CHAPTER XXII.

Effects of the Race—Suppers and their effects—The stuff that Dreams are made of—A Scrape in the Typa—Again at Whampoa.

Some suppers had to be ordered, and somebody had to eat them. Suppers are spiritless affairs without wine—nay! I deny the soft impeachment,—no pun is meant! And wine came forth at the bidding. Some one observes,

"You can call spirits from the vasty deep! But will they come?"

Let him but whisper the name of one "familiar" of any shade, complexion, or color within the corridors of Francisco Diaz's mansion for thirsty men, in Macao; and lo! it appears!

His house is haunted; there are bottle imps therein. Suppers were eaten at which epicures had not lingered; wine gulped down which would not have inspired Anacreon, and segars smoked that Sir Walter Raleigh might have relished! Apropos of segars—I should have said cheroots—Manillas scent the Indian air, Havanas have few lips to greet them in the East. Cheroots, then; who is there amongst the masculine dwellers of the land of "musquitoes and myrtle," that affects not the gentle cheroot? soft in its fragrance as the sigh of love! cheering in its effects as the presence of woman in the hour of pain! seducing in its influence as the eye of beauty! And whence gains the cheroot its magical properties? Look back, if you please, to chapter twelfth of this moving tale, and there you have it fully explained. It comes from the hand of woman! the same that presented the apple to Adam, and the pitcher to Abraham, who in falling or fainting, in laughing or weeping, still infuses the sweetness and acidity that makes the lemonade of life, and in mixing the ingredients "gives it all its flavor!"

"Let the toast be dear woman!" "Hallo, old fellow, thought you were asleep. Had something of a nightmare, eh? Been mumbling away as if the supper didn't agree with you." "Well, your toast, with all the honors, and then to bed." "Agreed."

"Let us go on board ship," proposed a seasoned mate, "the fast boat shoves off at ten." "Agreed, agreed again," was chorused round the table, and "one bottle more" of sparkling champagne being called for, "success to the launch" was drank, and then a majority of the party sought the boat, gained the ship, and turned in. "Let the toast be dear woman," danced through my brain upon sparkling beams of champagne, and the vibration of the nettles in the clews of my hammock plainly said or sung—

"The wine that is mellowed by woman's bright eye, Outrivals the nectar of Jove."

And I had a dream, which was "all a dream." With Byron in his waking "Dream," "I saw two beings in the hue of youth," and like his lovers, they were "standing upon a hill," and "both were young, and one was beautiful." I do not know how in fitting words to tell my dream. But as it was similar to his, oh that I could with his language, without the imputation of plagiarism, set down what crossed my sleeping mind. Besides, I have a dread of offending some readers in these transcendental times, when lectures on mysterious subjects are given to married ladies only, whose faces would tingle at the mere mention of one of those English classics, from whose fount flowed "the well of English undefiled." But to my dream. It was the age of early manhood, boyhood still lingering on the face of a being who filled my mind until it formed a part of myself. The being described as beautiful, oh beautiful as an angel was she! was by his side. Love, full, passionate love, brimmed over in her dark black eye, darker, more dazzling than the gazelle's, which was reflected back from his dark orbs, which took their brightest brilliancy from hers. Over her cheek the rosy god had spread his crimson mantle, and in the dimples of her chin the mischievous boy had found a lurking-place. They walked and talked, and in what phrase? Truly they knew not themselves! and yet each word, each glance, each touch, had a meaning perfectly intelligible. Time passed, but what was time to them, they saw nothing of his beard, heard not the rustling of his ancient wings, his scythe was hidden. The heavens are overcast, thunder rolls above them, and the lightning's glare makes the black fringes of the heavy cloud more funereal. A shadow, heavy, dense, material, interposes, and the boy seeks for his fair companion—but she is gone: "Got to see the hammocks up! six bells, come turn out," "rouse and bitt," "show a leg in a purser's stocking." "Zounds, how he sleeps," "where, where, oh where is my hammock boy?" who appeared at my call, and whom I wished at the gangway, that I might have slept on. But turn out I must now—and so turned out my dream.

Other races were upon the tapis. The launchers, like brave old Taylor, would not stay beaten, and demanded another trial; they offered to oppose any thing, from the Captain's gig, down to the dingui—they even wanted to challenge the boats of the whole squadron, and old A., the coxswain, in the true spirit of Rhoderick Dhu, exclaimed, "Come one, come all," but the regatta was put a stop to, by orders to get out of the Typa, and the men commenced "mud-larking," as they termed it. The Typa is filling up so rapidly that we never could get out now without a scrape, and the senior officer perhaps thought it better we should move before we had formed a bar with our beef bones.

So out of the Typa again we got, poised our wings in the outer harbor, and took flight for Whampoa again, and settled down in our old resting place in the "Reach," on the 11th of October. From here I took another trip to Canton, made a few purchases, as I then supposed it would be our last opportunity. Heard there of an extensive fire which had raged near the factories, in which over five hundred houses had been destroyed. A fire in Canton is a serious affair, and from the ideas of fatalism which the Chinese entertain, is much dreaded by foreign residents.

Our stay at Whampoa was not marked by any incidents worth noticing, and it is only to keep up the chronological character of my journal, that the trip is introduced.



CHAPTER XXIII.

Anson's Bay—Hong-Kong again—P. & O. Company's hulk takes fire—Escape of Captain's wife—Toong-Koo Bay—Piracy—Fire at Macao—Wolf again at Whampoa—Amateur Theatricals at Canton—Melancholy musings.

From Whampoa, came down the river to Anson's Bay and anchored; here held communication with our consort, which went up to the "Reach" to take our place.

Anson's Bay is just outside of the Bogue, and from our anchorage had a fine view of the Forts, some eight or nine being in sight. Tiger Island was also conspicuous, and the formation of a tiger's head quite apparent.

From Anson's Bay took our departure for Hong-Kong, where moored ship on the 19th October.

On the 20th, at about 5 P. M., the Peninsular and Oriental Company's hulk "Fort William," used for storing coal and opium, took fire and burned until 10 o'clock that night, when the fire was got under. Our crew assisted, with buckets from the ship, nearly all of which they managed to lose. The Captain's wife, who lived on board the hulk, had a narrow escape, having to be lowered out of the stern ports.

From Hong-Kong over to Macao, where obtained permission to go into Toong-Koo Bay for the purpose of calking, preparatory to our long voyage home, upon which we now hoped to be ordered daily; the rolling in the Roads preventing the possibility of effecting it at Macao.

Toong-Koo Bay is in the Cap-sing-moon passage, and about thirty miles from Hong-Kong. The British fleet rendezvoused here during the war with China.

Were anchored near Sam-sah Island, where tents were pitched and the sick placed in them. Every morning one watch was permitted to go on shore to wash their clothes, &c., until relieved by the other watch, so that there was always a little colony on the island. It was otherwise uninhabited.

Strolling over the island, came upon the ruins of a house and some human bones, and ascending a hill had a splendid view of the bay and surrounding islands. These appeared innumerable, like icebergs in the Antarctic circle, cutting up the bay into intricate channels, and as barren, if not as cold, as those ice islands. Pirates are plentiful in this neighborhood, and one morning, at daylight, Afouke, our fast boatman, brought on board two Chinamen, whom he had picked up swimming. They were badly wounded, and stated that about three o'clock that morning, as they were fishing, they were boarded by pirates, who threw fire-balls amongst them, burning them badly, and forcing them to leap into the water to save their fives, and then took possession of their boats. These waters are infested with pirates, who ostensibly pursue the avocation of fishermen, until an opportunity opens to catch men. The English navy did a great deal towards extirpating them, until their government took away the "head money," and now but few expeditions are fitted out; although doubtless the junior officers are as anxious for the service as ever.

The calking completed, reported ourselves at Macao; but no Commodore appearing, and our coppers being worn out, went over to Hong-Kong to get them repaired. Here we got a mail and news from home which was cheering, and increased our desire to start.

Went through a round of dinners at Hong-Kong, exchanging civilities with officers and citizens, but began to get tired of this kind of thing; like the schoolboy, wanted to go home!

At this time the government of Macao changed again, Cardozo being recalled, and Gruimaraens, commander of the corvette "Don Jooa," superseding him, his ex-Excellency departed for Lisbon in the return mail steamer, not much regretted, I understood.

A powder boat laying almost under our bows was robbed, the powder removed, and its keeper carried away, without exciting any attention; so silently was the act performed.

As we were leaving for Macao, the clipper ship Witchcraft came in, disabled, as I have recorded in a previous chapter.

Whilst at Macao, this time, a very extensive fire occurred, amongst China houses near the Bazaar. About thirty were destroyed, and a great many goods. A silk merchant's loss was considerable. So frightened was the fellow, that he removed his goods into a house that was afterwards burned, his own shop escaping; literally "jumping out of the frying-pan into the fire."

On the nineteenth of December, ordered again to Whampoa, to relieve our consort, and protect American interests from that imaginary wolf, the rebellion. Christmas day passed by there gloomily, and the new year commenced unprofitably.

Went up to Canton, to witness a theatrical performance, by amateurs, and was delighted. The room was well fitted up, and the appointments excellent. The play was, "The Schoolfellows,"—a beautiful little drama, by Douglas Jerrold, I believe; and it was admirably cast. Mr. Murray as Tom Drops—a good-hearted, liquor-loving vaut-rien—was inimitable. He was waiter and hostler to a village inn; and the scene in which he, upon wine being called for by a customer, produces, condemns, and consumes, a bottle of the "black seal" was the perfection of acting, the different phases of ebriety were well portrayed, and in the course of the play, additional red patches appeared upon his face, to show the effects of his habits.

Box and Cox was the after-piece; and Mr. Clavering as Mrs. Bouncer, was the very beau-ideal of a landlady, "fair, fat, and forty." The prologue was excellent, and well delivered, and the amateur company had just reason to be proud of their performance.

Having been favored with a copy of the opening address, I transcribe it. Of course, it loses much from the effect given by its composer in its delivery.

"Fair ladies, and kind friends, who deign to smile On our attempt an hour to beguile, I'm hither by the actors sent, to pray A gentle judgment on a first Essay. They bid me state, their novel situation Has set their hearts in such strange perturbation, They dare not raise the curtain till they've pleaded First, for the pardon will be so much needed. I'm shocked to say, it sounds so of the oddest, Our ladies want much practice to look modest; The rough, strong voice, ill suits with feelings tender, And 'tis such work to make their waists look slender! As for the men, the case is little better; Some, of the dialogue scarce know a letter: All unacquainted with each classic rule, We feel we've need enough to go to school; And trembling stand, afraid to come before ye, And of the Schoolfellows to tell the story. Yet need this be? I see no critic here; No surly newspaper have we to fear; Our scenery may be bad, but this is certain, Bright decorations are before the curtain, Under whose influence, you may well believe, We do not sigh for Stanfield, grieve for Grieve! Yet not too far to carry innovation, And to comply with settled regulation, Prompter we have, our memories to ease; But our best prompter is, the wish to please. Then kindly say, to stumblers in their part, What they have got, was surely got by heart; And each, surrounded by his friends, so stands, He will meet nought but kindness at their hands."

The Stanfield and Grieve, upon whose names the happy alliteration is made, are supposed to be celebrated English scene painters. But although the scenery meets with disparagement in the prologue, yet it was very superior; and the interior of the old schoolhouse, with the names of the boys cut into the oaken pannels of the door, and on which Jasper points out to Horace their initials intertwined, was a perfect picture.

Having gone thus far, I cannot omit a notice of Mr. Benjamin Sears' impersonation of the aged schoolmaster, Cedar. The dignity and simplicity of the character combined, was rendered by him in such a manner as almost to bring back those forgotten tears, drawn forth in olden times by that masterpiece of acting of Harry Placide's, in Grandfather Whitehead.

"Our Ladies," who required so much practice "to look modest," had become perfect in that requisite before the upraising of the curtain; and the young gentlemen cast in those characters sustained them with much tact, and knowledge of the demeanor of well-bred ladies: so much so, indeed, that after they had got through their parts, they were added, still in character, to the galaxy of "decorations before the curtain;" and the only faux pas I noticed was by "Marion," who, in being led to her seat in the dress circle, was about to take an unladylike step ever an obstruction, which her (?) innate modesty checked with the impulse.

After the performance, all the characters attended a fancy dress ball in their stage costume; and the pseudo ladies found partners in every dance, and won many hearts by their grace and beauty.

Had also a performance in the "Reach," by the crew of H. B. M. steamer Salamander. The larboard side of the forecastle was allotted to them; and they gave a drama "adapted to their stage," by one of their number called the "Smuggler," which they produced with good effect. The performance was, as they gave out, "under the distinguished patronage of the American and Her Majesty's officers."

But in spite of all these distractions, our delay was barely supportable; and watching the course of the muddy river, the following lament was penned:

Oh! swiftly flows thy dusky tide, Dark river, onward to the sea; And little doth thy current bide The thousand things that float on thee!

From off thy shore a weed is cast— Swiftly, in thy resistless sway, In eddying currents, sweeping past, 'Tis borne, unheeded, far away.

Like thine, the sweeping tide of Time, Rolls onward ever to the shore Of that uncertain, unknown clime, From which it may return no more;

And on its flow, my brittle life Drops down, uncared for, to that sea, Where, 'midst the dark waves' stormy strife, It soon shall sink, and cease to be.



CHAPTER XXIV.

Commodore arrives at last—Preparations for a Start—Delay —Washington's Birthday—The Clipper Challenge—Prisoners from her—Homeward Bound!—Reflections on Leaving—Case of Small-Pox—Second visit to Anger.

The flag-ship being now daily expected, we unmoored, and came down to Macao, awaiting her arrival in the outer Roads. Lay there, rolling, with occasional trips on shore, until the fourth of February, when the Commodore's broad pendant hove in sight. He anchored in the roads: and after we had reported, ordered us, by signal, to accompany him to Hong-Kong. Here we anchored, and remained until the squadron were all assembled, when we were ordered back to Macao, to take in provisions for the voyage home, and remove the invalids from the hospital. This accomplished, we returned again to the rendezvous, to receive our final orders, which were to relieve us from duty on the station, and send us home!

Were delayed by the investigation of a mutiny on board the American clipper ship Challenge, the ringleaders being then in custody in the Hong-Kong jail, and the case before the United States Consul.

Washington's birthday came round again whilst we remained in the harbor of Hong-Kong, and was celebrated by our squadron, the guns of which made quite a noise in the ears of the descendants of those who had once denounced him as a rebel.

Took an opportunity to look at the "Challenge." She is an immense vessel, 243 feet long, with 43 feet beam, and over 2,000 tons burthen, but so beautifully proportioned as not to appear above 1,200. Her spars are immense, and she spreads a cloud of canvas. Depend upon it, she will not belie her name, but with any kind of a chance, is destined to make a voyage, which she may confidently challenge the navies of the world to beat!

On the twenty-fifth of February, the prisoners from the Challenge were sent on board, six in number; and at 6 bells P. M. got up anchor, and fired a parting salute, which was returned by the Commodore, gun for gun. Exchanged cheers with the squadron, made an evolution in the harbor, by way of "salaam," and then stood out, with studding-sails set, homeward bound!

There is a sort of unexpressed concern, a kind of shock, that sets one's heart ajar at leaving even the most unpleasant people and places, says one who ought to know, for he had travelled much, and I could not help agreeing with him, as we took our departure: There was but little to regret in leaving China. I had formed few ties there. The places and people (with but few exceptions), if not unpleasant, were at least indifferent. Yet I must admit this unexpressed and inexpressible concern, as our vessel glided out of the harbor of Hong-Kong, towards home.

But we had a long passage before us, and much water to sail through, ere we reached our homes. The China and the Java seas had to be traversed ere the Straits of Sunda gave us a passage to the Indian Ocean, whose bosom we had to plough until the southern point of Africa passed, the Atlantic could be pressed by our keel;—and then not the Ocean of our hemisphere: for many degrees of longitude must be tracked, before we could set them down as West; and the imaginary "Line" divided us from the Northern Ocean, in which lay our port.

Took our departure from the "Ladrone Islands" at 8 o'clock on the night of the twenty-fifth, and the next day at meridian, we had made 128 miles on a S. S. West course. Weather fine; beautiful, easy sailing, with the wind abeam.

On the twenty-seventh, wind hauled ahead, and we only got eighty-eight miles out of the ship in the last twenty-four hours; and for the last two days of February had a dead beat—a thing altogether unlooked for in the China Sea at this season.

On Thursday, eleventh of March,—sea time,—at meridian, we were thirteen miles south of the Line, in long. 107 deg. 22' 55'' east; being the third time of our "crossing" it. A few days previous to this a case of small-pox had broken out, one of the prisoners having contracted the disease in Hong-Kong, where it had been raging to some extent. This was rather a serious matter in a small and crowded ship at sea; but he, being placed in the lee quarter boat, and a strong N. E. monsoon then prevailing, after a while recovered, no contagion having been communicated to the ship's company.

The Island of Saint Barbe was passed on the morning of the last date. It is a beautiful island, uninhabited, and as near the line as can be.

On St. Patrick's day, 17th. March, came to anchor at Anger, where we stopped for a supply of water and wood. I have described this place in an earlier chapter, and on landing found the town without much change. The Banyan tree still there, with the Dutch flag above it, and the string of half clad Malays on their usual walk between it and the Bazaar. The former mansion of the Governor had been destroyed by fire, and a new Governor had been installed, who occupied the house formerly used as a hotel. He was absent on official duty, but his Secretary did the honors of reception.

Naturally looking round for our old friend, the Dutch landlord, found him in a smaller house, his only customer; had expected to have heard that he had fallen a victim to his love for "schnapps," but here he was as blooming as ever, and as much addicted to his national liquor—certainly gin appeared to have agreed with him.

Took possession of his quarters at once, and ordered a supper, of which some slap-jacks was the only dish eatable. Composed ourselves for the night, on a mattress hauled from his own bed, with expectation of a more comfortable breakfast, which, with the addition of eggs, and the omission of slap-jacks, was a fac-simile of the evening meal.

There was one thing peculiar about the eggs, which I would recommend be introduced into the United States, viz., to have the date of the time in which they were laid marked upon the shell, as he had, only proposing that the marker be sworn as to the correctness of the date; in which case the Dutchman would have perjured himself, I fear.

Had a splendid bath, by favor of the Secretary, in the Governor's bath-house, which was large enough to swim in, and constantly supplied with fresh water by the same aqueduct that brings it to the shipping. Our compradore gave us a treat of mangusteens, delicious fruit, and then the cornet being hoisted at the fore, the signal for sailing, repaired on board, having spent twenty-four hours very pleasantly again at Anger.



CHAPTER XXV.

No Musquitoes at Anger—The Land of the East—A Sketch— Advantages of Anger—Dolce-far-Niente—Island of Java— Batavia—Bantam—Comparison between Anger and Singapore.

A peculiarity about Anger is, that there are no musquitoes there, and very few of the noxious vermin that destroy the romance of tropical climes. It does very well in poetry, to pen, in pretty phrase, the query of your acquaintance with the

"Land of the orange and myrtle;"

but they are more than poetically "emblems of deeds that are done in their clime," and gastric derangement from the former fruit, with cutaneous affections from the sweet-scented vine, are not the only proofs of a change in the properties of the Garden of Eden. "Latet anguis in herba," of the most inviting natural lawn, and of its gayest flowers, truly has the poet said, "the trail of the serpent is over them all." The East is called the "land of the sun," and justly too, for he reigns supreme there, and if you defy his power, soon brings you to your senses, or rather deprives you of them, by a coup de soleil. Evading his beams you seek the covert of a grateful shade, where the spreading palm, with parasol-like leaves, forms romantic shelter, the cocoa-nut in its triple cluster hanging invitingly in its crotch; away high up upon its straight and graceful stem, birds of magnificent plumage are flitting from tree to tree, making the grove vocal with their notes; monkeys, mischievous, but not considered dangerous, dance overhead upon the boughs, and with comic antics provoke a smile. With gentle breezes wafting perfumes such as Gouraud never was gladdened with in his most happy ambrosial dreams, and glimpses of the blue sky, seen partially through the waving foliage, which gently moves with a composing sound, reminding you that "Heaven is above all," you close your eyes, about to sink into the arms of the "twin sister" of that mysterious deity, who bears you thither, when—wiss-s-rattle, crack—down comes a cocoa-nut, denting the ground within two inches from whence you had just jerked your happy head, which had it hit would have transferred you from the arms of one "twin" to the other; and a malicious monkey scampers off chattering and grinning, as if he had performed a feat worthy of his prototype—man!

"Oh know you the land of the orange and myrtle?" where the Thug crawls cautiously with his strangling cord, and the tiger welcomes you with his feline fangs!

But Anger—please pronounce it softly, as if written thus, Anjeer—Anger is not so bad as described in the foregoing sketch; as I have stated, there are no musquitoes there, and you are not much troubled with those bumping, buzzing bugs, who "put out the light, and then put out their light." Lizards crawl over the walls and ceilings, but they are harmless, and catch flies. I do not know how it is, and it may be thought a strange taste, but I rather affection the lizard. His frugal habits, his unobtrusive manners, and that cunning blink of his bright black eyes, have taken away that aversion which is a natural sentiment towards that species of animals "which crawl upon the belly;" and upon the whole, must confess I consider him, despite his ugly tail, a very proper domestic animal; more so than many other gluttonous pets.

Tigers, it is true, are said to prowl about at night, seeking something to devour, but I never encountered one, else I might not have been here to write about them. Crocodiles infest the stream that winds around and about the Malay houses. But they do not appear to hold them in dread, for I have seen men, women, children and crocodiles in the same water, and at the same time. That they, the crocodiles, are not converts to Malthus, is pretty apparent, from the number of tender infants they permit to be added to the census of the Malay population.

Upon the whole, there was something about Anger peculiarly pleasing to me; whether that it had been the "first of Eastern lands" I had trodden upon, or there could have been any thing conducive to the "dolce-far-niente" feeling in its atmosphere, but I felt as if I could have laid back and smoked segars in Mynheer's porch for the remainder of my days—

"The world forgetting, by the world forgot."

Don't know how long the feeling would have lasted had I indulged it ad libitum; but I certainly did enjoy the few hours passed there in a kind of dreamy abstraction, which approached the pleasure of the opium-eater's reverie.

The Island of Java, sometimes called "Great," on account of Balie having once been called by the same name, is nearly five hundred miles in length, and a place of considerable importance in the commercial world; that part of it occupied by the Dutch, producing coffee, rice, and "straits produce." Batavia, the principal settlement, is a city of considerable importance, only about sixty miles by land from Anger, a communication being kept up by post between the two places. It is described as a very populous and beautiful city, but of a climate, at certain seasons, deadly to Europeans. The Governor-General of the Dutch possessions in the East Indies, resides at Batavia, and it is the depot of the Dutch trade. It is well known that the English possessed themselves of this place after the provinces had declared war against Great Britain, and lost more men during its short occupancy, by disease, than by the casualties of war. Bantam is also neighboring to Anger, with which a post route is also kept up; it was once a place of considerable importance, but has fallen into decay, Batavia obtaining its trade, and rising upon its ruins.