At Steglitz, a southwest suburb, may be seen the mulberry plantation and the one silk manufactory of Berlin. It was not our lot to find the large nurseries and hot-houses which make the flower-shops and market-places of Berlin exquisitely radiant with blossoms at all seasons,—beyond even the famous Madeleine flower-market at Paris in the season when we visited it—and, if so, surpassing in this respect all other cities.

One of the two routes to Dresden and Leipsic passes Lichterfelde, five miles from Berlin, where conspicuous buildings are the seat of the chief cadet-school in Germany. Here are accommodations for eight or nine hundred cadets, the flower of German youth. Neither pains nor expense has been spared in the erection and embellishment of these extensive buildings. The "Flensburg Lion," erected by the Danes to commemorate a former victory in Schleswig-Holstein over the Prussians, and later captured by the latter, stands here before the house of the Commandant.

Five or six miles farther on is Gross-Beeren, a Napoleonic battlefield where Buelow won a victory over the French in 1813; and about an hour and a half from Berlin, in the same direction, is the little city of Jueterbok, with interesting old edifices. The student of the Reformation will feel most interest in this place as that where Tetzel was selling his famous "indulgences" when Luther, protesting in righteous wrath, nailed to the door of the Wittenberg Church the ninety-five theses which set all Germany ablaze. One of these "indulgences" is kept for inspection in the Nicolai Kirche of Jueterbok. Near by are the old Cistercian abbey of Zinna, and another battlefield, Dennewitz, an important strategic point in one of the campaigns against the First Napoleon, where the victory of Buelow over Ney and Oudinot saved Berlin from the hands of the enemy.

No student of history—especially no Protestant—can afford to visit Berlin without an excursion to Wittenberg, which may either be compressed into a single day, with a few hours in this old University town which was the cradle of the Reformation, or may be pleasantly prolonged to days full of musing on the manifold phases of that unparalleled movement in the history of religious thought, amid the very scenes with which they were most intimately associated. Not alone that Germany is to-day what Luther, more than any other man, has made it, but as heirs to the inheritance which he bequeathed to all lands and ages, are Americans called to the profound study of the epoch which Luther shaped, and of which our age is but a part. Of all intense pleasures, none to us was greater than a humble pilgrimage through Germany where our feet were set in the footprints of the Reformer.

Quaint Eisleben, with the house where he was born, and that in whose chamber he was suddenly stricken with mortal pain, while his companions watched with awe the passing to higher service of that valiant soul, we had visited before we looked upon Wittenberg. Mansfield, too, with its flaming forges and its vast cinder-heaps,—where Hans Luther, the miner, toiled to feed his wife and babes,—we had seen; and historic Erfurt, with memories of the University where he studied and the monastery into which he went, taking with him, of all his books, only his Plautus and his Virgil, to study the Latin Bible chained to its post, and to fight that mental battle which toughened his sinews for the world-conflicts awaiting him; and whence he emerged at the call of his Superior, a young priest of twenty-five years, to take the professorship offered him at the new University of Wittenberg. At lovely Eisenach we had tarried for days; had entered the door of the once grand house of the burgomaster Cotta, before which little Martin, with the other charity boys of the school near by, had sung Christmas carols for his bread, and where he had been taken to the heart and the home of Mother Ursula; had peeped into the room there that was his, and been driven up the mountain-side beyond the village whose crown is the fine old castle of the Wartburg; had stood at the solitary casement of the room where he fought with the devil, and looked out over the magnificent panorama of wooded mountains and beautiful valley where he looked forth day after day of those ten months of mysterious imprisonment, into which friendly hands had thrust him from the thick of the fight,—where he saw the miracle of spring-time creeping over the hills and waving trees far beneath him, and heard and felt the wintry winds howl around his solitude. He was only thirty-five, but he had already come into conflict with the mightiest power on earth, and his life was forfeited, when here he slowly came to know that God had thoughts of good and not of evil concerning him; and here he began another work,—the translation of the New Testament,—for which he never would have had time if left to himself. Eisenach, with its dramatic situation, perhaps lingers longest in the memory of men of any place connected with that great story. But if it bore a more poetic share, it was not the most important. It was neither at Leipsic nor at Heidelberg, at Nueremberg nor at Speyer, at Augsburg nor even at Worms, that the great drama had its chief location, though memories of Luther were to us among the conspicuous attractions of these places.

From the time when the young monk emerged from Erfurt, where his preparation for life was made, until at sixty-three he had "finished his course," Wittenberg was his only home. For thirty-eight long years here his heart was, and here, like the needle to the pole, the direction of his activities constantly turned. Here, in the old Augustinian monastery, is the lecture-room and the ancient "cathedra" from which he delivered those lectures which laid the foundation of his fame in the early years of his professorship. Here he quietly wrought at his translation of the Bible and discharged the duties of his position, while his voice shook the world, and all Europe was swaying in the storm, himself the calm centre of the whirlwind. Here, at the age of forty-two, he brought his bride, the nun Katherine von Bora; and in this monastery, presented to him by his friend the Elector, his six children were born. Hither, when his work was done, his lifeless form was borne, followed by a weeping funeral procession which stretched across Germany; and here in the church which had been the scene of so many great sermons, he was laid to rest, with room for Melanchthon beside him. Here one may enter that other church where he first administered the communion in both kinds to the laity; may read the immortal theses, now in enduring bronze on the doors of the castle church; may pluck a leaf from the oak-tree planted on the spot outside the city gate where he burned the papal bull; may sit in the window-seat of his family-room, surrounded by his table, his bench, and his stove, and listen where that family music seems still to echo; may wander in the old garden, amid the representatives of the trees which shaded him, and the flowers and birds he loved; may sit at the stone table in Melanchthon's garden where the names of the friends are inscribed; may stand before their statues in the market-place and hear his voice: "If it be God's work, it will endure; if man's, it will perish."

As we live over these days and realize afresh all that history can tell us of the wondrous story, we know that not the polish and the learning of its scientists, its philosophers, and its men of letters, not the prowess of its soldiers and its military leaders, have made United Germany possible, but that Bible which Luther translated for the German people,—that standard of the German tongue which through all the conflicts of three centuries and a half has defied the power of diverse interests, and cemented and preserved the integrity of the nation.



INDEX.

Academy of Arts and Sciences, 53.

American Chapel, 91-93.

American Thanksgiving Banquet, 94.

Americans in Berlin, 98, 188.

Antiquarium, 105.

Apartments, 15.

Army, 139.

Army Bill, debate on, 127.

Arsenal, 111-113.

Art Collections, 108-110.

Babelsburg, 206-208.

Bach's Passion Music, 147.

Bank, Imperial, 193.

Belle Alliance Platz, 190.

Berlin, Cathedral, 79. Cathedral service, 80. character of, 9, 249. church attendance, 82. climate, 14. latitude, 14. Old Berlin, 172. parade, 141.

Bethanien, 194.

Birthdays, 20.

Bismarck, Chancellor von, 125-130, 154, 156, 171, 251. palace of, 175, 183.

Bornstedt, 203.

Boerse, 84, 193.

Botanical Gardens, 189.

Brandenburg, Castle and City of, 256.

Brandenburg Gate, 179, 187.

Buelow, Frau von, 212, 214.

Bundesrath, 131.

Cabmen's Mission, 235.

Cemeteries, Dorotheen-Stadt, 191. Garrison Kirche, 191. Matthai, 189. Sophien Kirche, 191.

Charlottenburg, 196, 198-201, 215. Mausoleum at, 200.

Charlottenhof, 205.

Chorin, 253.

Christmas, 21.

Churches of Berlin, Cathedral, 79. Chapel, American, 91. English, 90. French, 85. Garrison, 82, 86. Heiliggeist, 84. Jerusalems, 85. Kloster, 84. Marien. 84. New, 85. Nicolai, 82, 85. Trinity, 87.

City Prison, 193.

Closets, 16.

Concerts, 48-50.

Cornelius, cartoons, 107.

Crown Prince Frederick, 100, 102. as Emperor, 111, 142-151, 171, 195-199. birthplace, 205. new palace, Friedrichskron, 196, 205. funeral service, 102.

Crown Princess Victoria, 91, 100, 102, 143, 145, 146, 152, 154, 206-208, 244, 246.

Cuestrin, 254.

Dennewitz, 258.

Donhof Platz, 190.

Dryander, 87.

Easter, 35.

Educational system, 59-61.

Eisenach, 259, 260.

Eisleben, 259.

Elevators, 11.

Emperor Wm. I., 81, 95, 100, 133, 136-138, 177, 186. ninetieth birthday, 159-166. palace, 195. burial-place, 201.

Emperor Wm. II. (Prince William, 130), 151, 205, 208. Princess William, 152.

English Church, 90.

Erfurt, 259.

Fehrbellin, 252.

Fichte, grave of, 191.

Fouque, De la Motte, grave of, 191.

Frankfort-on-Oder, 254.

Frederick Wm. I., 204.

Frederick II. (the Great), 196, 204, 252-254. statue of, 180.

Frederick Wm. III., 135, 200.

Frederick Wm. IV., 136, 200, 203.

Friedrichsruh, 251.

Frienwalde, 253.

Frommel, 86.

Funerals, 30.

Furniture, 16-18.

German Army, 139.

Germany, a military power, 10.

Good Friday, 33, 34.

Great Elector, statue of, 173, 182.

Grimm brothers, graves of, 189.

Gross-Beeren, 257.

Gruenewald, 249.

Gymnasia, 59-61.

Hanse League, 192. device of, 254.

Hegel, grave of, 191.

Hildesheim, silver service, 105.

Hospitals, 194.

Humboldt, Alexander von, 81, 85, 205, 210-220.

Humboldt, William von, 209-214.

Insane Asylum, 194.

Jews, synagogue, 90. music, 88-90. service, 88-90.

Jueterbok, 257.

Kaiserhof, 11.

Kaulbach, frescos, 107.

Knights of Malta, 185.

Koeln, 172.

Koepenick, 253.

Kreuzberg, 190.

Lette-Verein, Bank of Loans, 245. Charlotten-Stiftung, 245. Commercial School, 246. Drawing School, 247. Employment Bureau, 247. School of Industry, 246. School of Type-setting, 248. Victoria-Stift, 248.

Library, Royal, 54-58.

Lichterfelde, 257.

Lodgings, 12.

Luebben, 255.

Lueneberg, silver service, 123.

Luther, 80, 84, 258-260, 263.

Manners, 23-26.

Mansfield, 259.

Mausoleum, 200.

Meals, 14, 30, 45-47.

Mendelssohn, Fanny, 132.

Mendelssohn, Felix, 132.

Mendelssohn family, graves of, 191.

Mint, Imperial, 193.

Moabit, 193.

Moltke, General von, 127-130, 156, 171.

Museums, Ethnographical, 123. Hohenzollern, 118-120. Industrial, 121-123. Maerkische, 124. National Gallery, 107, 173, 174. New, 105. Coins, 106. Engravings, 107. Sculpture, 106. Old, 103, 108, 174, 182.

Napoleon I., 177, 180.

Napoleon III., 146, 200.

Neander, home of, 185. grave of, 190.

Neu Ruppin, 252.

Old Schloss, Berlin, 173, 182, 196-198.

Pankow, 253.

Parishes, 82.

Pestalozzi-Froebel-Haues, 221. domestic department, 230. Kindergarten, 223-229.

Pichelsberg, 250.

Postal system, 118.

Potsdam, 201. Babelsburg, 206. Friedenskirche, 101, 206. Garrison Church, 99, 203. New Palace, 203-205. Old Schloss, 203. Roman Bath, 205. Sans Souci, 201-203.

Prince Albert of Prussia, palace of, 183.

Prince Frederick Charles, palace of, 184.

Prussian Parliament, 131.

Queen Louise, 136, 187, 199.

Raphael Tapestry, 104.

Rath-haus, 172, 191.

Raths-Keller, 192.

Reichstag, 125-131.

Rheinsberg, 252.

Richter, 127-129.

Rohrpost, 114.

Schiller Platz, 85, 189.

Schleiermacher, home of, 185.

Schliemann, remains, 124.

Schoenhausen, 251.

Schools, girls, 63-74. Real, 60.

Sculpture, 106.

Society, 29.

Spandau, 215, 250.

Spreewald, 255.

Stairs, 10-12.

Steglitz, 256.

Stendal, 252.

Stoves, 13.

Sunday evenings at Dr. Stueckenberg's, 97.

Sunday observance, 31.

Tangermuende, 252.

Taylor, Bayard, 191, 219.

Technological Institute, 53.

Tegel, 209.

Tempelhof, 138.

Tetzel's indulgence box, 124.

Thiergarten, 185. monuments in, 186-188.

Thompson, Rev. J.P., 191.

University, 51, 53.

Unter den Linden, 180.

Varzin, 251.

Ventilation, 18.

Virchow, 132.

Waldersee, General Von, 157.

Waldersee, Countess von, 157.

Wansee, 250.

War Academy, 54, 242.

War Office, park of, 54.

Wartburg, 260.

Weddings, 35.

West End, 188.

Wilhelms Platz, 184.

Windhorst, 129, 131.

Wittenberg, 261.

Women, education of, 75. regard for, 27.

Young Men's Christian Association, 241.

Zinna, 258.

Zooelogical gardens, 188.

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