The only living author whose name is likely to descend to posterity is that of Chateaubriand, who, although he has never been a writer of poetry, may be considered the greatest poet in France, as there is so much of imagination and of soul in his prose, so much of sublimity in his ideas, that the works in verse of his contemporaries appear insipid when compared to the wild flights of genius which ever emerge from his pen, yet when they are closely studied, and deeply sounded for their solid worth, it will be found that they consist merely of beautiful imagery, elegantly turned phrases, a sort of flash of sentiment, which catches the ear, but appeals not to the understanding, a gorgeous superstructure, as it were, without a firm foundation for its basis. As for example, in his preface to Attila, alluding to Napoleon, he observes "Qu'il etait envoye par la Providence, comme une signe de reconciliation quand elle etait lasse de punir." Which may be rendered thus: that Napoleon was sent upon earth by Providence as a sign of reconciliation, when she was fatigued with punishing; this is certainly very pretty, but I will appeal to common sense, whether there was aught of fact to support such an assertion? Even those who were the most enthusiastic admirers of the martial genius of Bonaparte, could not participate in the fulsome compliment paid to their hero by M. Chateaubriand; but when strictly scrutinized, all his works will generally be found of the same tissue; yet, as there is so often a wild grandeur in his conceptions and in his mode of expressing them, whilst they are arrayed in all the grace and beauty which language can bestow, his volumes will always find a place in every well-assorted library, when probably those of most of the other French authors of the present period will be consigned to oblivion, excepting such as have written upon history, which will always maintain their ground, as they are in a degree works of reference.

There are several very clever men who write for the newspapers, or what may be styled pamphleteers, amongst whom are Jules Janin, and Alphonse Karr; the latter publishes a satirical work called the Guepe, which possesses the talent of being very severe and stinging wherever it fixes. M. Barthelemy has written some poetry much in the same strain, which is rather pungent, but he latterly appears to have sunk into the same slumber which seems to have enveloped so many of the present literary men of France. M. Deschamps now and then produces some poetic effusions which are pleasing, and prove the author to be possessed of that ability which would induce a wish that his works were less brief and more frequently before the public. But taking all into consideration, this is by no means a literary era in France; the nineteenth century has not yet produced any such names as Montesquieu, Voltaire, Rousseau, and many others, who have shed a lustre on the French name; there are no doubt many clever men still living who have written scientific works upon medicine, surgery, natural history, physiology, botany, astronomy, etc., whilst the names of De Jussieu and Arago, as eminent in the latter sciences, are known all over Europe, as well as many others who are celebrated in their different departments.

Although the present age is not fecund in the production of French genius as relates to the polite arts, yet there never was a period when there was more anxiety for their promotion, and now all classes read; but the reading of the lower orders consists principally of a political nature; the newspapers now however have what is called a feuilleton, which embraces many subjects, and appears to interest all; the criticisms on the theatrical performances are perused with much avidity, an extreme partiality for dramatic representations still forms a considerable portion of the French character, as also a general love of music, without being at all particular as to its quality; no matter how trifling it be, as long as there is any thing of an air distinguishable it will please. There are at present a host of composers in France whose fame will probably be not so long as their lives; Paris is inundated every year with a number of insignificant ballads which just have their day, and if perchance there should be one or more that are really clever amongst the mass of dross which comes forth, after a twelvemonth no one would think of singing it because it has already been pronounced ancienne, and it is completely laid aside, and in a few years so totally cast in oblivion, that it cannot even be procured of any of the music-sellers, or anywhere else: this was the case with some delightful airs which appeared about ten years since, and which are now nowhere to be found, although once having excited quite a sensation. The French cannot certainly be considered as a musical nation, yet many of their airs are full of life, and quite exhilarating, whilst others have a degree of pathos which touches the heart; still none of their music has the nerve, the depth, the sterling solidity of the German, nor the elegance nor grace of the Italian. Yet some composers they have whose works will have more than an ephemeral fame, amongst whom may be cited Aubert, whose music is not only admired in France but throughout all Europe; another author of extreme merit is Onslow, whose productions are not so voluminous or so extensively known as those of Aubert, but possessing that intrinsic worth which will increase in estimation as it descends to posterity: the compositions of Halevy and Berlioz have also some degree of merit. But amongst the numerous productions which have emanated from the French composers for the last fifty years, one there is that for soul and grandeur stands unrivalled, and that is the Marseilles Hymn, or March, by Rouget de Lille; perhaps there exists no air so calculated to inspire martial ardour, and there is no doubt but that it had considerable effect upon the enthusiastic republicans in exciting them to rush into what they considered the struggle for liberty and honour; it appears to have been an inspiration which must have suddenly lighted upon the composer, as none of his works either before or since ever created any particular sensation. Although of far distant date, the old air of Henry IV must certainly be placed amongst the gems of French musical composition; there is a peculiar wildness in it, which gives it a tone of romance, and reminds one of very olden time, there is in it an originality, a something unlike anything else; the Breton and Welsh airs alone resemble it in some degree, and in both those countries they pretend that they are of Celtic origin. Music is of very ancient origin in France: in 554 profane singing was forbidden on holy days; in 757, King Pepin received a present of an organ, from Constantin VI; a tremendous quarrel occurred between the Roman and Gallic musicians, in the time of Charlemagne, and two professors are cited, named Benedict and Theodore, who were pupils of St. Gregory; but the most ancient melodies extant, and which are perfectly well authenticated, are the songs of the Troubadours of Provence, who principally flourished from the year 1000 to the year 1300. Saint Louis was a great patron of music, so much so that in 1235 he granted permission to the Paris minstrels, who had formed themselves into a company, to pass free through the barriers of the city, provided they entertained the toll-keepers with a song and made their monkies dance. At that period they had as many as thirty instruments in use; the form of some of them are now totally lost. Rameau is the only French composer whose name and compositions may be said to have had any permanent reputation, which does not now stand particularly high out of his own country; Lulli, Gluck, and Gretry were not born in France, although it was their principal theatre of action. It remains to be proved whether the works of Boieldieu will stand the test of time, as also of those composers who are still living and are the most esteemed.

Much may be said of the French musical performers, who certainly may be considered to excel upon several different instruments, particularly on the harp, which all can testify who have ever heard Liebart. There are also a number of ladies to be met with in private society who play extremely well; the same may be said with regard to the piano-forte, but although there are many professors who astonish by their execution, yet they have not produced any equal to a Liszt or Thalberg; I have even amongst amateurs known some young ladies develop a lightness and rapidity of finger quite surprising, and far surpassing what I have generally met with in England (except with the most accomplished professors), but I do not consider that they play with so much feeling and expression as I have often found even with female performers in my own country, and which affords me a much higher gratification, as fingering is after all but mechanical, which may astonish, but will never enchant. On the violin they have produced some very fine players, as also upon other instruments, and the bands at their operas can hardly be too highly praised. But their music which has afforded me the most delight has been the performances of their first masters on some of their magnificent organs; on those occasions I heard the most exquisite feeling and expression displayed, and have known the most powerful sensations excited; this most superlative enjoyment I have experienced at the churches of Notre-Dame, St. Sulpice, St. Eustache, and St. Roch, but it happens only on particular and rare occasions, and it is difficult to find out when such performances will take place; sometimes it is announced in Galignani's paper but not always, and their sacred music is often most exquisite particularly that which is vocal.

In respect to singing, although the Conservatory of Music and the most talented masters give every advantage to the pupil of theory and science, yet they cannot confer a fine quality of voice where it has not been afforded by nature, and that deficiency I find generally existing with the French females; they will often attain an extreme height with apparent facility, and even will manage notes at the same time so low that no fault can be found with the compass of their voices, nor any lack of flexibility; their execution being perfectly clean and correct. I have frequently heard them run the chromatic scale with extreme distinctness and apparent ease, and acquit themselves admirably in the performance of the most intricate and difficult passages, all of which is the result of good teaching and attentive application of the pupil, but sweetness of tone exists not in their voices, which are generally thin and wiry; they want that depth and roundness which gives the swell of softness and beauty to the sound; hence there is generally a want of expression in their singing as well as their playing. Of course there are exceptions, and Madame Dorus-Gras may be cited as such, as well as many others, who have won the admiration of the public. The voices of the men are better, often very powerful, possessing extremely fine bass notes, but many of them have even still a horrid habit of singing their notes through the nose. I don't know whether it is that they regard their nasal promontory in the light of a trumpet, so considering it as a sort of instrumental accompaniment to their vocal performance, but although it is a practice which is wearing off, there is a great deal too much of it left. Nourrit had none of it, his voice was firm and sweet, and few men have I ever heard sing with so much feeling. Duprez is also a singer of no common stamp, and of whom any nation might be proud, and I have often met men in society sing together most delightfully, either duets, trios, or quartettos, and totally devoid of the nasal twang, or, as the reader will observe, delightful it could not be.



CHAPTER XII.

Instructions for strangers; remarks upon the feelings and behaviour of the lower classes of the Parisians. Political ideas prevailing in Paris. Observations upon the present statesmen.

There are certain regulations to be observed at Paris which we are not accustomed to in our own country; on a stranger's arrival he is conducted to an hotel, either to that to which he is recommended, or he fixes upon one of which he hears the most extravagant praises from persons who attend with cards, and even throw them into the carriage before it stops; on whichever the traveller may make his selection the same plan is to be followed, make your arrangement as to price before you install yourself, either per day, per week, or per month; you may make your agreement to take your meals from the people of the hotel, or to send for it from a restaurateur, or to go and dine at one, as you may think proper; the latter plan is found the most agreeable for a stranger, as he sees more of the people by so doing, and can try several different restaurants, which he will find very amusing, and some of them, from the beautiful manner of fitting up, are well worth seeing; the prices vary from a franc to six or seven francs, according to their celebrity. Every hotel has a porter, to whom you must give your key whenever you go out, and then the mistress of the house is answerable for anything which may be missing, but if you leave your key in the door whilst you are absent, you cannot make any claim for whatever may have been lost; at night, on the contrary, after the gates are shut, when you retire to bed, and you let it remain outside, should anything be stolen, the mistress is accountable, as it is supposed that when all is closed in, everything is then under the safeguard of the porter, for whose conduct the mistress is considered liable. According to the style of the hotel in which you take up your abode, the porter will expect remuneration; at one that is moderate, and not in a first-rate situation, six sous a day is sufficient, but in most hotels about the fashionable quarters half a franc is the usual sum expected; for this your bed is made, your boots and shoes cleaned, as also your room, and your clothes brushed; they likewise take in messages or letters, and answer all enquiries respecting you, direct the visiters to your apartment, etc., but if you send them out anywhere, no matter how short the distance, they always charge at least ten sous for it; it is one of the dearest things I know in France, that of charging for every little errand or commission.

At some of the hotels there are commissioners who make offers of their services, to conduct strangers to different shops or warehouses, for the purpose of making their purchases, but too much reliance must not be placed on those gentry, as they often exact contributions from the shopkeepers for bringing travellers to their shops, when they naturally must charge so much the more upon the goods in order to pay the commissioner.

Tradesmen from London particularly are often misled in that manner, but in proceeding to such establishments as those I have stated, which are respectable wholesale houses, such as Messrs. Bellart, Louis, Delcambre, for lace, ribband, and silk, 2ter Rue Choiseul, etc., they will never be deceived; I will also add another establishment which has existed for many years and always conducted their business on equitable terms, being that of M. Langlais-Quignolot, No. 10, Rue Chapon, where he executes orders for London on a most extensive scale for net gloves, purses and reticules. He lives in the neighbourhood where many of the wholesale houses are situated, and would willingly inform any stranger of the most respectable in the different branches required. The different articles to be seen at M. Langlais' warehouse are got up in a most superior style and at prices so reasonable, that it is quite surprising when compared to the charges made for the same goods in London, where undoubtedly they have duty and carriage to pay. He has lately brought into vogue some most beautiful little purses called Rebecca, being exactly in the form of the pitcher with which she is represented at the well; their appearance is most ornamental, and although very small they distend so as to hold as much as most ladies would like to lose in an evening at cards. M. Langlais has already sent over numbers to London, which must now be making their appearance in Regent Street, but I recommend my countrywomen when at Paris to pay him a visit themselves, as he does not refuse a retail customer although his is a wholesale house; he has a most extensive assortment of all varieties of purses and net gloves and reticules, from which numbers of shops in Paris and London are supplied, and of course being the fountain head the articles may be procured on advantageous terms of M. Langlais.

There is one precaution I would recommend all travellers to adopt, and that is always to keep their passports, about them; in case they happen to pass any exhibition or building that is open to a stranger on producing his passport, it is well to be provided with it, or if he should meet with any accident, or that any casuality should occur, it will always be found useful. When you arrive at the port where you disembark in coming from England, your passport is taken from you and sent on to Paris, and what is called a Carte de Surete is given you instead, for which you pay 2 francs; this you must give to the mistress of the hotel where you lodge at Paris, and she will procure your original passport for you from the police, or if you choose you may go for it yourself, and save the charge of the commissioner who would be employed to fetch it. In returning to England, you take it to the English Ambassador's to be signed, and from thence to the police for the same purpose, but only state that you are going to the port from whence you are to embark, as if you say that you are going to England they send you to the Minister of Foreign Affairs for his signature, where there is a charge of ten francs, which there is not the slightest necessity of incurring. I have been very often from Paris to London and never paid by following the plan I have stated, but for a permit to embark there is always 30 sous to pay, at the port on quitting the country.

In all the diligences throughout France the places are numbered, and he who comes first has the first choice, in which case most persons choose No. 1, but others who prefer sitting with their backs to the horses select No. 3; this excellent regulation prevents any kind of dispute about seats. If you have much luggage you are required to send it an hour or so before the coach starts, and in travelling by the Malle-Poste (or Mail) if your trunk be very large, and weighty, they will not take it, therefore you must ascertain that point when you take your place; it is always sent by a diligence which follows, but a delay is occasioned which sometimes proves inconvenient. The mails are dearer than the diligence, and some go eleven miles an hour.

With regard to posting, the price is 2 francs each horse for a miriametre or six miles and a quarter, and as many horses as there are persons in the carriage must be paid for; 15 sous is what should be given to the postillion, but most people give a franc. The posting is entirely in the hands of government, and where the horses are kept is not always an inn; but wherever it may be, printed regulations are kept to which the traveller may demand a reference, if he imagine its rules are not fulfilled. For 4 francs a book may be purchased which gives a most detailed account of every thing connected with posting; all the charges must be paid in advance. Coaches may be hired in Paris at from 20 to 30 francs a day, with which you may go into the country, but must be back before midnight. An excellent and most useful establishment will be found at No. 49, Rue de Miromenil, Faubourg St. Honore, called Etablissement d'Amsterdam, where there are above 300 carriages constantly kept, either for hire, for sale, or for exchange; it is also a locality where persons may sell or deposit their carriages for any period of time they think proper, and can likewise have it repaired if required; they will besides find every description of harness and sadlery. Horses also are taken in to keep, or bought or sold. The establishment is most complete in all its appointments, is very extensive and kept in the most perfect state of order. There are some carriages amongst the immense variety that may thoroughly answer the purpose for travelling, which can be procured at extremely low prices, whilst others there are, very handsome and perfectly new, which are of course charged in proportion. The proprietors are extremely civil, and ever ready to show their premises to any visiter who may wish to see them.

A fiacre, or hackney coach, is 30 sous each course, for which you may go from barrier to barrier, which might be five miles; but if you only go a few yards the price is the same. If you hire it per hour the first is 45 sous and afterwards 30 sous; after midnight, 2 francs each course and 3 per hour; a few sous are always given to the coachman, which may be varied according to the length of the course. Chariots are 25 sous per course, 35 first hour, afterwards 30. Cabriolets 20 sous the course and first hour 35, afterwards 30; but as all these prices are subject to change with new regulations, it is not worth while to give any farther detail. The General Post-Office is in the Rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau, but there are other places where you may put in your letters for England, although not many if you wish to pay. In the exchange there is a box for receiving letters for all parts; and in the square to the left is an office where you can pay your letter, which is always 40 sous to London if it be not over weight. Whatever you bring over that is liable to pay duty at the custom-house, if you take it back with you on your return to England, on producing the articles and the receipt of what you have paid, you can reclaim whatever you have disbursed; this particularly applies to carriages and to plate, only you must not neglect to demand a receipt at the time you pay, and to take care of it, as I have known many instances of persons losing them, and then their reclamations are useless. I have never found them very severe in the custom-houses in France, but am convinced that the best plan on both sides of the water is to give your keys to the commissioner of the inn where you put up; by displaying no anxiety on the subject, the officers conclude that you have not any thing of importance, and will pass your things over more lightly than if you were present, as when witnesses are by they like to preserve the appearance of doing their duty strictly. I have seen some of the English bluster and go in a passion about having their things tumbled about, as they expressed it, but it only makes matters worse. I have known the searchers in those cases to turn a large chest completely topsy-turvy, so that not a single article has escaped examination, and the whole has had to be re-packed. It is at best an unpleasant tax upon travellers, but it is always better policy to submit to it with a good grace.

The passport is a grievance which is much complained of by Englishmen, and certainly it does appear an infraction on liberty, that it should not be possible to go from one part of the country to another, without having to obtain permission; but it has other advantages: a criminal in France can very seldom escape; by the regulations of the police it is almost impossible for them to evade detection, as wherever he sleeps his passport must be produced, and every master or mistress of every description of lodging-house is bound to give an account of whatever stranger sleeps under their roof, to the police, and their officers; or the gendarmes, are authorised to demand the sight of the passport of any person whom they may suspect. In England a passport is not so necessary, because being an island the means of escape are not so easy, as they must either embark at some port or they must hire a boat on their own account, or enter into some proceeding which leads to discovery; and notwithstanding those obstacles to leaving the country, and the extreme vigilance of our police, felons do very often escape, and murders remain undiscovered, as those of Mr. Westwood, Eliza Greenwood, and many others. But those who are invested with authority in France sustain it with a more courteous demeanour than is the case in England, consequently it is less offensive. If your passport be asked for, it is in a polite manner, whereas with the English, give the butcher or the blacksmith the staff of office as constable, and he exercises his brief authority very frequently in a manner which is not the most engaging. Although a politesse and refinement of expression united with a smutted face, tucked-up sleeves, an apron and rough coarse hands, has something in it of the ludicrous, yet it softens the brutality to which uncultivated human nature is ever prone, but instances of such inconsistencies sometimes occur which cannot otherwise than excite a smile; a few days since a working man dropped a knife, a dirty looking boy of about 12 years of age picked it up, and presented it to the owner, with some degree of grace, saying, "Render unto Caesar that which is Caesar's." Passing through the Rue des Arcis, which is a mean narrow street, at one of the lowest descriptions of wine-houses where dancing was going forward, perhaps amongst fishwomen and scavengers, I noticed a large lantern hanging out over the door, upon which was inscribed, "Bal seduisant, le Paradis des Dames," which may be translated, "Seductive Ball, the Paradise of Ladies." The traveller may remark on the road from Boulogne to Paris and within a few leagues of the latter, in a small village at a house little better than a hut, where the insignia of a barber is displayed, a board on which is written; "Ici on embellit la nature," or "Here we embellish nature."

Even in the lowest classes the French must have a little bit of sentiment, and amongst them marriages occur principally from affection, but almost always with the consent of the parents; it is lamentable to think how many young couples destroy each other because they cannot obtain the sanction of the father or mother to one of the parties, and these mistaken lovers really think it less crime to commit suicide than to marry against the consent of their parents, which they are by law empowered to do, provided that they have three times made what is called les sommations respectueuses, that is, having three times respectfully asked their permission, without having obtained which, they cannot marry if not of age under any circumstances; but when no longer minors, and that they have conformed to what the law prescribes, they may be united notwithstanding the opposition of their parents, but it is a case which scarcely ever occurs. There is much more of family attachments and bond of union between relations in France than there is with us, and at marriages, funerals, and baptisms, the most distant cousins are all brought together to be present at the ceremony, which amongst the higher and middle classes has rather a pleasing effect; the bride arrayed in a long white flowing veil decorated with orange flowers has a most interesting appearance. Before being performed at the church, it must be registered at the mayoralty.

When any one is deceased, black drapery is hung up outside the house, and the coffin is brought within sight and burning tapers fixed around it, and every one who passes takes off his hat, and if he chooses, sprinkles it with holy water; chaunting over the coffin at the church is sometimes continued for two hours, and the effect is very impressive. Wherever the funeral procession proceeds along the streets every one who meets it takes off his hat; in fact in no country is there more respect paid to the dead. When a child has lost both its parents, it generally happens that some relation will take it, even sometimes a second or third cousin; this will happen often amongst the poorer people, they hold it as a sort of sacred duty for relations to assist each other, a feeling that I could wish to see more general in England, as I have known too many instances where even brothers exhibited instances of affluence and poverty. In my own neighbourhood, there was a case of a Mr. N. living in good style, with livery servants, etc., and his own brother working for him at 1s. 8d. a day as a common labourer, although his fall in life had been entirely caused by misfortune and not by his prodigality or mismanagement; such a circumstance could not have existed in France; the peasants would have hooted the rich brother every time he showed his face. The French people are too apt to take those affairs in their own hands, and express their indignation in no unmeasured terms. They are very prone to act from the impulse of the moment, and are easily aroused in any cause where they consider injustice has been enacted, and many of the persons concerned in the press are well aware of this, and by most artfully turned arguments they work up their passions either for or against a party, as circumstances may render it fitting for their purpose.

But although some of the newspapers have certainly had some fire-brand articles against England, yet it does not appear to me to have had any effect of exciting a hatred against the English. I have never seen in any one instance any manifestation of such a feeling; in fact the French are much in the habit of separating the government from the people, and even the most hostile portion of the press observe that there are amongst the population in England numbers of individuals of the most exalted characters; hence the French do not consider that the people are amenable for the faults of their government, and are inclined to imagine those of every country more or less corrupt. They never had a very exalted opinion of their own; perhaps the most popular ministry they have had for the last thirty years was that of M. Martignac, which Charles X so suddenly dismissed and thereby laid the first foundation for the glorious three days. With the present government I should say that the majority of the people appear disposed to be passively satisfied, not so much from a feeling of approbation of its proceedings, but fearing that were there a change it might be for the worse; with the present they have the assurance of peace, and tranquillity, and all manufacturing and agricultural France know how destructive war would be to their present prosperity; of this none are more sensible than the Parisians, as it is really astonishing what sums of money the English nobility expend even whilst they are residing in England, with the tradesmen in Paris, principally for articles of art and luxury but also for a great portion of that which is useful as well as ornamental; and imagining that many of my readers may have as great an aversion to copying letters as myself and at the same time be aware of the necessity under many circumstances of keeping a duplicate, I must not forget to mention an extremely useful invention which adds another evidence of the prolific ingenuity of France. It consists in a machine for copying letters, registers, deeds, or in fact any description of written document, or stamped, or in relief, by which they can be repeated even a thousand times if required and in a very short space of time; there have been many who have attempted to attain the same object and have had a partial success, but those of M. Poirier, No. 35, Rue du Faubourg St. Martin, appear to unite advantages which none of the preceding ever attained. They are called, Presses Auto-Zinco-Graphiques. For the merit of this invention he has been granted a patent, and awarded a medal by the Central Jury, appointed to examine the specimens of art and ingenuity sent to the National Exhibition established for the purpose of bringing them before the public. For merchants, solicitors, and all persons keeping several clerks such a machine must be a great acquisition, as in addition to the copies being effected more rapidly than would be possible by hand, where there are numbers of letters of which duplicates are requisite, the labour of one clerk at least must be saved. M. Poirier has them executed in so beautiful a manner that they really are quite a handsome piece of furniture, some of which are as high as 350 fr. but the prices gradually descend to even as low as 10 fr. which are so contrived for travelling that they contain pen, ink and paper and only weigh one pound. I here subjoin the opinion of the Central Jury addressed to M. Poirier. "These presses are certainly the best executed of any which have been exhibited. Their merit consisting in superior execution, cannot be too much encouraged, as the happiest ideas often fail in the realisation, therefore that the jury may not be deficient in recompensing M. Poirier they award him the bronze medal."

All parties regard M. Guizot (Minister of Foreign Affairs) as a talented man; and one of considerable firmness of character, who unflinchingly maintains his ground whilst a host are baying at him, appearing as unmoved as the rock that is pelted by the storm; he seems never taken by surprise, but is ever ready with such answers and explanations as generally baffle his accusers; still he cannot be called a popular minister, because he is known to possess what is called the Anglo-mania, that is, to have a most decided predilection for everything that is English, and there is no doubt that he wishes to do all in his power to conciliate England, without sacrificing the interests and honour of his country; but in that respect his enemies think that he would not be too delicate, but is determined to have peace with England a tout prix (at any price). M. Guizot is a protestant and was a professor in the University.

His immediate opponent, M. Thiers, has risen to eminence entirely by his writings; he came to Paris from Aix in Provence (in 1820), and lived in a room on the fourth floor in the Rue St. Honore; here he wrote for the newspapers, but being taken by the hand by M. Lafitte he and his works speedily rose into notice; it is possible that he may be as anxious for the welfare of his country as M. Guizot, but would carry things with a higher hand, and although every one is aware of his extraordinary abilities, yet the moderate and thinking part of the community remember how near he was involving France in a war with her most powerful neighbours, and however they smarted for a time under what they conceived an affront offered to their country, yet there are very few now but feel fully sensible of the benefits they derive from the blessing of peace having been preserved. M. Thiers may be cited as one of the most animated and effective speakers of any in the Chambers, and his speeches often display a brilliance, energy, and ardour, which create a forcible impression, but sometimes betray the orator into hasty assertions, of which he may afterwards repent, but feeling too much pride to recant, he prefers standing by the position he had hastily assumed; consequently, he is then compelled to marshal all his powers of argument to sustain that which in his own mind he may feel convinced is erroneous. Yet although many from prudential motives did not approve his policy, which had nearly involved France in hostility with England, they rather admired the spirit and susceptibility which he displayed in resenting the slight with which the French nation had been treated, and looked upon him as a sort of champion of their cause, so that he may be rather designated a popular statesman than otherwise, although he was considered in the wrong on that one point, and the reflexions which he flung upon England would have passed away as unmerited, and soon sunk into oblivion, had not a portion of the English press so indulged in abuse and ridicule of the French at that period, who often remark that they were subdued by the allies combined, but that it is only the English press which is as it were triumphing over and insulting them, by pretending such a superiority in their troops and seamen as to place those of France in a most contemptible light, whilst all the other powers, although equally their conquerors, give them credit for being a brave military nation. I must confess that I have found more liberality in the French with regard to rendering the merit due to the English troops, than in any other country, and I remember a work which came out in Berlin upon military movements, tactics, etc., and in a parenthesis was this sentence, "It is well known that the English, though excellent sailors, are inferior as troops to those of the other European powers." I should have thought that the Prussians who have fought with us would have known better of what metal English soldiers were composed. But to return to M. Thiers; I should still say notwithstanding all that has past, his talents are held in such estimation, that certain changes might occur which would again place him at the helm of the nation.

Having given a slight sketch of the two political chiefs who as it were head the most powerful contending parties, I must be still more brief in my notice of the other statesmen whose names, acts and speeches are before the public, amongst the most conspicuous of whom is Odilon Barrot, who is what may be termed decidedly liberal, or in plainer language radical, and has long sustained his cause with talent, energy, and consistence; he speaks well and boldly, and has hitherto acted in that manner which might be expected from the tenor of his speeches; sometimes however persons become calm, what others would call moderate, or a slight tint manifests itself in the colour of their politics, perhaps rendering them more harmonious with the reigning parties, but which accord not with the ideas of the most staunch advocates of a more ultra liberal system; this appears to be somewhat the case with M. Odilon Barrot, whose adherents judge from the support he gave to Thiers, that he is not so warm in the cause as themselves; however he still may be considered the chief of that division of the Chamber which he has always led. M. Mauguin was at one time the most violent of the same party, but during his visit to St. Petersburg he appears to have had such an affectionate hug from the Russian Bear, that he has latterly espoused the cause of Bruin, and would if he could induce France to throw England overboard altogether, and cast herself entirely into the arms of Russia.

M. Arago, the celebrated astronomer, has ever proved himself an honest undeviating radical, both in his speeches and his actions. As an orator, many give the palm to M. Berryer, but as his party is not numerous, being carlist, his talents do not receive the general appreciation that they would, had he attached himself to a more popular cause, but he deserves much credit for having faithfully and constantly adhered to his principles. M. Lamartine, the poet, who professes to be independent of any party, is also a very admired speaker, and so was Sebastiani, but now he is passing fast into the vale of years, and has lost that spirit and energy which formerly gave much force to his speeches. M. Mole is another of those statesmen who has filled the most important political stations, but now is getting old and more quiet. As to dilating upon the merits and demerits of those persons who compose the present ministry, it would be but time lost, as they are so often changed in France that their brief authority is often brief indeed, and with the exception of M. Guizot, (who is certainly a host within himself), and Marshal Soult, there is not any character that is particularly prominent, or remarkable for any extraordinary talent. The career of the Marshal is, I presume, well known to most of my readers, and the manner in which he was received in England proves the degree of estimation in which he was there held. He was the son of a notary at St. Amand, where he was born in 1769, being the same year which gave birth to Napoleon, Wellington, and Mehemet Ali. Admiral Duperre, the Minister of Marine, served with great credit to himself throughout the war, and commanded the force which defeated our attempt to take the Isle of France, in 1810, and the naval portion of the expedition employed in the capture of Algiers, was placed under his orders. There are yet a good many men whose names have been long and well known in the political world, who still take a more or less active part in the affairs of the nation, amongst whom may be cited the Baron Pasquier, President of the Chamber of Peers; M. Sauzet, President of the Chamber of Deputies, and the ministers Duchatel for the interior, Cunin Gridaine for commerce, Teste for public works, and Lacave Laplagne for finances; to whom may be added the Duke de Broglie, the Comte Montalivet, Dufaure, Joubert, Salvandy, Delessert, Isambert, Ganneron, etc., also the brothers Dupin, the eldest highly celebrated as an avocat, and the younger (Charles), for his writings upon the naval department, upon statistics in general, and a very clever work upon England. Amongst the extreme radicals, Ledru Rollin may be cited, General Thiard, Marie, a barrister of rising talent, and a young man named Billaud, who is coming forward, and considered to be rather a brilliant speaker. The foregoing names include several men who have had much experience, and possess moderate abilities, merely passable as orators, but having a fair practical knowledge of political business, but not men of exalted genius, or such whose names will be likely to figure in the page of history; perhaps it may be with truth said, that the best statesman France now possesses, or even ever has possessed, is the King, it being very doubtful whether any of his ministers, or indeed any member of either of the chambers, is blest with that deep discernment and profound knowledge of human nature which he has displayed, by the correctness of his calculations upon the pulses of his subjects, under the most trying difficulties, and which have enabled him to weather the storm.



CHAPTER XIII.

The theatres, present state of the drama, and principal performers. Collections of paintings.

It is rather extraordinary that in this age of superlative refinement, the drama should rather be upon the decline than otherwise in regard to the talent of the performers, but it appears to me that such is really the case both in England and France. I can just remember when Mrs. Siddons, John Kemble, Charles Kemble, Young, Mrs. Jordan, Irish Johnson, Munden, Emery, etc. so well sustained the character of the English stage. Alas! shall I ever see the like again? Theatrical representations in France have had a similar decline, although two stars there are who uphold her histrionic fame with superior eclat, Mlle. Rachel for tragedy, and Bouffe for comedy; it would be useless for me to attempt any description of the powers of the former, as she is as well known in London as in Paris, but with the latter my readers I believe are only partially acquainted; he has been in London, but I rather think only made but a short stay, certainly a more perfect representation of French nature it would be impossible to imagine; even although he undertake ever so opposite a description of character, the simple truth would be given in them all; he has not recourse to grimace or buffoonery, or any exaggerated action, but seems not to remember he is counterfeiting a part, but appears to make the case his own, and not to have another thought than that which must be supposed to occupy the mind of the individual he is personifying. Pleased with Bouffe to our heart's full content, we look around amongst all the range of actors to find some approach to his inimitable talent, not being so unreasonable as to hope to discover his equal, but our search ends in disappointment, we seek in vain for the representatives of Perlet, Odry, Laporte, and Potier, to whose comic powers we are indebted for many a laughing hour, but they are now replaced, as well as many other of our old acquaintances, by substitutes who are but sorry apologies for those we have lost; however, although the French theatre has certainly retrograded in respect to its dramatics personae, it has gained surprisingly with regard to scenery, decorations, and costumes, which very considerably enhance the interest of a theatrical performance, particularly when it is historical, and it is a satisfaction to know that no pains are spared to render the drapery as exact as possible to that worn at the period the piece is intended to represent; thus you have the most accurate peep into olden times that can possibly be afforded, and Paris offers such extreme facilities for ascertaining what description of dress was adopted at any particular age, by means of their immense collection of engravings, and written descriptions, contained in their old books, and manuscripts, which are freely produced to any individual on making the proper application. Of these advantages the managers of the theatres avail themselves to the utmost extent, which enables them to be extremely correct, not only with regard to the habiliments, but also the scenery, and all the accessoires are rendered strictly in keeping with the century in which the events recorded have occurred.

The Italian Opera in Paris is considered to be managed with great perfection, the company is much the same with regard to the principal singers as our own, consisting of Grisi, Persiani, Albertazzi, Lablache, Tamburini, Rubini, Mario, etc., as they can be obtained, according to their engagements in London or elsewhere, and the operas performed are also similar, therefore any description of either would be superfluous; altogether, the enjoyment afforded is not so great as at our own, as no ballet is given, and the coup-d'oeil is not so splendid as in ours. The Theatre de la Renaissance is devoted to the performance of the Italian Opera, it is situated in the middle of a small square, opposite the Rue Mehul, which turns out of the Rue Neuve des Petits Champs, from which it is seen to the best advantage; the facade has a handsome appearance, with the statues of Apollo and the nine Muses, supported by doric and ionic columns. The prices of the places are from ten francs to two francs, which last is the amphitheatre; the intermediate charges are seven francs ten sous, six francs, five, four and three francs ten sous the pit, and it is capable of containing 2,000 persons. The performance begins at eight.

The French Opera, or Academie Royale de Musique, in the Rue Pelletier, near the Boulevard des Italiens, has nothing very striking in its external appearance, but the arrangements and decorations of the interior are certainly extremely handsome, and everything is conducted on a most superior scale; the scenery and costumes are here in perfection, the arrangements and accommodations for seats are excellent. The great strength of the vocal performance consists in Duprez and Madame Dorus Gras, to whom I have before alluded, and whose reputation is too well established to need any comment. They are ably seconded by Levasseur, Madame Stolz who is well known in London, and the fine deep voice of Baroilhet, Boucher, Massol, and Mademoiselle Nau, possess a moderate share of talent, there are also others whose abilities are of minor force but sufficient to support the subordinate roles. The orchestra and chorusses are extremely good and numerously composed, and on the whole it may be considered that they get up an opera in a very superior manner. The ballet at this theatre was formerly the greatest treat that could be imagined, derivable from performances of that nature, but at the present period the strength they possess in that department is by no means efficient. Carlotta Grisi stands alone as having with youth any degree of talent above mediocrity; the same can hardly be said of Mademoiselle Fitzjames, and Madame Dupont; Noblet is past that age which is indispensable in exciting interest as a dancer, notwithstanding she has still considerable ability, and there are not any others who are worth mentioning amongst the females. Of the men, when Petitpa is cited as having a grade more of ability than the rest, nothing more in the shape of praise can be added with respect to their present corps de ballet. This theatre is also capable of containing 2,000 persons, and the prices are from 2 francs 10 sous to 9 francs, the pit is 3 francs 12 sous, and there are as many as 20 different parts of the house cited with their respective charges. They sometimes begin at 7, more often 1/2 past, but never later.

The Theatre of the Comic Opera is situated in the rue Marivaux, Boulevard des Italiens, and the facade with its noble columns has a very fine effect, which is fully equalled by the decorations of the interior. Chollet, still remains their principal singer; his voice is good, so is his knowledge of music, but he is now no longer young nor ever was handsome, but always a favourite with the public; he is supported by Roger who takes the roles of young lovers, by Grard who has a fine bass voice, and Mocker with a good tenor; amongst the females is our countrywoman Anna Thillon, who is exceedingly admired, and at present the great attraction, she is pretty, lively, or sentimental, as her part may require, her voice is pleasing and it may be said that she is quite a pet with the Parisians; she is an excellent actress, and appears at home in every part she undertakes. Mademoiselle Prevost has for many years sustained a certain reputation as one of the principal singers at this theatre, for my own part I always thought her rather heavy and a want of feeling and expression both in her acting and singing. Madame Rossi Caccia, although only just returned from Italy, belongs to the company, she has a most admirable voice and is a great acquisition to the theatre, at which, on the whole, the amusements are of the most delightful description. The prices are from 30 sous to 7 francs 10 sous. They begin at 7.

The Theatre-Francais in the Rue Richelieu holds the first rank, for the drama, of any theatre in France, where Talma, Duchesnois, Mars and Georges have so often enchanted not only the French public, but persons of all nations who were assembled in Paris, and on these boards Mlle Rachel now displays her magic art; nor are the attractions of Mlle Plessis to be passed over unnoticed, but as she has lately been to London, my country people can form a better judgment of her than from any description I can give. Mlle Anais is an actress who has been and is still rather a favourite, although now not young. Mlle Mantes is a fine woman upon a large scale, plays well and has been many years on the stage, but never created any sensation; Mlle Maxime rather stands high in the public estimation; Mlle Noblet and Mme Guyon possess moderate talent acquit themselves well, and are much liked, generally speaking. At present Ligier is considered their best tragedian, but principally owes what fame he has, to their actors in that department being of so mediocre a description, some people prefer Beauvallet but not the majority, their abilities are very nearly of the same stamp. Guyon is a fine young man, and plays the parts of young heroes very fairly. Geffroy is another, possessing sufficient merit to escape condemnation. As comic actors they have Regnier who may be placed upon the moderate list; Samson is certainly much better, and in fact by no means destitute of talent, which may decidedly be also stated of Firmin; Provost is likewise a very passable actor. Comedy is indeed their fort, it is far more pure than ours; I remember making that remark to the celebrated John Kemble at the time he was residing at Toulouse, and adding that I considered our comic actors gave way too much to grimace and buffoonery. Kemble replied, "Don't blame the actors for that, it is owing to the bad taste of the audience, by whom it is always applauded, and a thoroughly chaste performance, without some caricature, would not stand the same chance of success." The prices at the Theatre Francais are from 1 fr. 5 sous varying up to 6 fr. 12 sous, according to that part of the house in which you choose your seat; they begin sometimes 1/4 before 7.

The Theatre du Gymnase, on the Boulevart Bonne-Nouvelle, was once one of the most successful of any in Paris, but it does not sustain the high reputation it formerly possessed. Bouffe is now its principal support, and has indeed a most attractive power; there are also other actors of merit, as Klein, Numa, Tisserant, and Volnys, who sustain their respective parts extremely well; but when performing with such a star as Bouffe, their minor talents are eclipsed, and little noticed. Mad. Volnys (formerly Leontine Fay) still retains that high reputation which she has so long and so justly merited, she ever was a most charming and natural actress. Mesdames Julienne, Habeneck and Nathalie are all rather above mediocrity, so that this theatre still affords the dramatic amateur much rational enjoyment. They commence at 6, and the prices range from 1 fr. 5 sous, to 5 fr.

The Theatre des Varietes always has been and is still a great favourite, where they play vaudevilles, a sort of light comedy, which are generally highly amusing; they have always contrived to have actors at this theatre who were sure to draw full houses, and that is the case at present. Lafont is an excellent actor and a very fine looking man, he has performed in London; Lepeintre yields to few men for the very general estimation in which his talents are held; Levassor is a man of very gentlemanly appearance, not at all wanting in assurance, and always at his ease in every role he is destined to fill. For females they have Mesdames Flore, Bressant, Boisgontier, Esther and Eugenie Sauvage, the first rather too much inclined to embonpoint, but playing her part none the worse for that, the last an actress of great merit, whilst the others act so well that one would wonder what they wanted with so many; besides which they have several others who are above mediocrity, and a few hours may be passed any evening most agreeably at this theatre. The performances commence at 7, the prices are the same as at the Gymnase with regard to the minimum and maximum, but having altogether nineteen different intermediate specifications.

The Theatre du Palais-Royal, forming the corner of the Rues Montpensier and Beaujolais, and having an entrance in the Palais-Royal, is one of the most successful in Paris, and one of the very few which have proved good speculations, and they continue to have such excellent actors as cannot fail to attract. A. Tousez has much ability and is very comic, M. and Mad. Lemesnil, M. and Mad. Ravel are very clever in their respective parts, Sainville is not less so; then amongst their first rate actresses they have Dejazet, who has been highly appreciated in London, Mlle Pernon, young, talented, and pretty, and Mlle Fargueil, handsome, and though youthful, already an excellent actress. The pit is only 1 fr. 5 sous, from which it rises to 5 fr. for the best seats. They begin at half-past six.

The Vaudeville Theatre is facing the Exchange in the Place de la Bourse, and retains a very good share of the patronage of the public; their performances are, for the most part, very good, and the pieces which are mostly played, are such as the name of the theatre indicates. Felix and Lepeintre jeune are much liked, Bardou is an excellent actor, Arnal a famous low comedian, M. and Mad. Taigny possessing very fair talent, and are called the pretty couple. Mesdames Doche and Thenard not without merit, and on the whole their corps dramatic is much above mediocrity. Their light, comic, and amusing little pieces are well calculated to chase away a heavy hour. They commence at a quarter past seven, and the prices are much the same as at the Variete.

To the Porte St. Martin I have already alluded, situated on the Boulevart of the same name, although they often give very interesting pieces as melodramas, light comedies, etc., and always had some very good actors, yet it has seldom had the success to which the exertions of the proprietors were entitled. After a total failure the theatre has been re-opened, and amongst the actors there are some of known talent; Frederick Lemaitre may be considered their brightest star, once so celebrated in the role of Robert Macaire, Clarence, Raucour, Bocage, and Melingue sustain their parts very fairly, and the same may be said of Mesdames Klotz and Fitzjames, who are more than passable actresses. The pieces begin as low as twelve sous, and rise to six francs. The performances commence at seven.

The Ambigu Comique is a theatre situated on the Boulevart St. Martin, and also for melodramas and vaudevilles; it has not been much more fortunate than its neighbour the Theatre Porte St. Martin, and the representations are very similar at both. St. Ernest, as an actor, and Madame Boutin, as an actress, appear to be the favourites amongst rather a numerous company, of which some are far from being indifferent performers. The prices are very modest, commencing at only ten sous, and elevating to four francs; it begins at seven.

The Gaiete, on the Boulevart du Temple, is another theatre of much the same description; at present, however, the company is considered to be very good: the strength consisting of Neuville, the brothers Francisque and Deshays, and of the females, Madame Gautier, Clarisse, Leontine, Abit, and Melanie are considered the best. Some pieces have come out at this theatre that have had a great run. The prices begin at eight sous and rise to five francs. They also commence at seven.

The Theatre des Folies Dramatiques is likewise on the Boulevart du Temple, and varies very slightly from the last, except being one grade inferior, and the prices in proportion, commencing at six sous, and not mounting higher than two francs five sous, and yet the performances are often not by any means contemptible. They begin at half-past six.

M. Comte has a theatre in the Passage Choiseul where children perform, which may be considered as a sort of nursery for the theatres in general; but what afford the most amusement are his extraordinary feats of legerdemain, which are certainly wonderfully clever. The prices are from about one franc to five francs.

Although I have left it to the last, I must not entirely omit to mention the Odeon theatre, to which I have already adverted; little can be judged from it at present, having only just re-opened. Mlle. George is endeavouring, in the eve of her days, to afford it the support of her now declining powers; she is however ably sustained by Achard. Vernet also is a good actor, and they have others who are by no means deficient. It begins at 7, and the prices are from 1 franc to 5.

In addition to those I have already stated, there are about a dozen more theatres, inducting such as are just outside the Barriers, and although theatrical speculations have generally been very unfortunate recently, yet it does not appear to arise so much from the want of audiences, but from paying the great performers too highly, and having too many of all descriptions. There are besides several public concerts, of which the one styled Muzard's, in the Rue Neuve-Vivienne, is the best; the price of entrance to most of them is 1 franc. Several public balls are constantly going forward in gardens during the summer, and in large saloons in the winter; they are mostly attended by the lower order of tradespeople, or by females of indifferent character, except in the Carnival, and then more respectable characters go to the masked balls at the theatres which are the most expensive; the ladies however only as spectators, generally speaking, but their attractions are too irresistible to many, for them to suffer the season to pass over without once joining the gay throng, particularly to some who have a great delight in mystifying a friend or acquaintance, and telling them a few home truths under the protecting shield of a mask, having opportunities of so doing at the public balls without fear of being recognised; whereas concealment at private masquerades can seldom be preserved to the last. It is most usual for ladies who visit the theatres to see the masked balls only to remain in a box with their party, and from thence to view the motley group; there are however some females even of rank who cannot resist the charm of going entirely incognito, to puzzle and perplex different persons whom they know will be there, only confiding to one or two dearest friends their little enterprise, to whom they recount the adventures of the evening.

All strangers sojourning at Paris are generally directed to devote their earliest attention to the Gallery of Pictures at the Louvre, and I had intended to have bestowed much space to that object, but I find such excellent works published on that subject at only one or two francs, that I would recommend my readers to furnish themselves with one and take it with them to the Louvre when they go there; they can procure them of M. Amyot, No. 6, Rue de la Paix, where they will also find almost every publication they are likely to require, and will meet with the utmost civility and attention. There are continually changes taking place in the arrangements of the pictures, consequently it would be impossible to give any correct numerical indications. The works of Rubens are particularly numerous, but I should not say they were the chefs d'oeuvre of that great artist, the women are so fat and totally devoid of grace; I have seen several of his pictures in the great Collection at Vienna which I like much better. The Louvre may be also considered rich in the works of Titian, some fine subjects by Guido, Murillo, Correggio, and Paul Veronese, of which the Marriage in Cana is supposed to be the largest detached picture in the world; and many of the figures are portraits, as of Francis I, Mary of England, etc., who were contemporaries with the artist; in fact there are some paintings of almost every celebrated Italian and Spanish master. The Dutch and Flemish school is extremely rich, particularly in Vandycks, but as might be expected specimens of the French school are the most numerous, the principal gems of which are by Claude Lorraine, Poussin, and Le Brun, infinitely superior to the productions of the present day. There are besides many pictures by French artists of the time of David, Gerard, Gros, etc., which I consider generally inferior to some of those of their best painters now living.

There are several private collections that are well worth the attention of the visiter; amongst the number is that of Marshal Soult, consisting of some of the most exquisite Murillos, I should decidedly say the happiest efforts of his pencil, but I believe since I saw them he has sold some of the best to an English nobleman. The gallery of M. Aguado (Marquis de Las Marismas), contains undoubtedly some very fine subjects of the Spanish school, and others that have considerable merit, but out of the great number of paintings which are assembled together the portion of copies is by no means small; still there is sufficient of that which is very good to afford great pleasure to the amateur. The residence of the Marquis was in the Rue Grange-Bateliere, and it is to be presumed that, notwithstanding his decease, the establishment will be kept up as before. The collection of the Marquis de Pastoret, in the Place de la Concorde, is well worth visiting if you have a good pair of legs and lungs, for I believe you have upwards of a hundred steps and stairs to mount; but an ample reward will be afforded in viewing some very clever small cabinet paintings by celebrated Italian, French and Flemish masters.

The Baron d'Espagnac has at his hotel in the Rue d'Aguesseau a selection of paintings which may be considered one of the most recherchee in Paris; a landscape by Dominichino is quite a gem, and he has scarcely a painting in his numerous collection but must be admired; his copy of the Last Supper by Leonardo da Vinci is perhaps the best that has ever been executed, and affords a most exact idea of the original, which is now, alas! nearly if not entirely defaced. To see these, as well as many other very excellent private collections, it is merely necessary to write to the owner and the request is immediately granted.

Mr. Rickets, an English gentleman living at No. 9, Rue Royale, has about 400 pictures, amongst which are some of considerable merit and particularly interesting, either for the execution, the subjects, or certain associations connected with them; this selection presents a singular variety of styles, wherein may be recognised all the most celebrated schools; some of the smaller pictures are executed with the most exquisite delicacy and require long examination to form an adequate appreciation of their merit. This collection is only accessible through the medium of an introduction. As many purchasers of pictures often want them cleaned and restored, I would recommend them to a countryman for that purpose, M. Penley, No. 11, Rue Romford, whose efforts I have seen effect a complete resuscitation upon a dingy and almost incomprehensible subject.



CHAPTER XIV.

The concluding Chapter; application of capital, information for travellers, prices of provisions.

One of the first measures to be adopted on arriving in France, is to acquire the knowledge of the value of the coin, which is indeed rather intricate; first a sou, or what we should call a halfpenny, is four liards or five centimes; then there are two sou pieces, which resemble our penny pieces; there is likewise a little dingy looking copper coin, with an N upon one side and 10 centimes on the other, that is also two sous; they once had a little silver wash upon them, but it has now disappeared. Next there is a little piece which looks like a bad farthing, rather whitish from the silver not being quite worn away, which passes for a sou and a half or six liards. We then rise to a quarter franc, or 5 sous, which is a very neat little silver coin; next the half franc, then a fifteen sous piece, which is copper washed over with silver, with a head of Louis on one side and a figure on the other; double the size but exactly similar is the 30 sous piece; the franc is 20 sous, the two francs 40 sous, both of which are neat silver coin, as also the 5 francs piece. The gold circulation consists in ten, twenty, and forty franc pieces. There are no notes in Paris for less than 500 francs, which are of the Bank of France; the visiter on arriving in Paris will require to change his English money, and there are many money changers; I have had transactions with most of them, but have found Madame Emerique, of No. 32, Palais-Royal, Galerie Montpensier, (there is an entrance also Rue Montpensier, No. 22,) the most liberal and just of any, and I am quite certain that any stranger might go there with a total ignorance of the value of the money he presented, and would receive the full amount according to the state of exchange at the time. Much credit is due to Madame Emerique from our country-people with regard to her conduct respecting stolen Bank of England notes; she takes great pains to obtain a list of such as are stolen, that she may not be unconsciously accessary in aiding the success of crime, by giving the value for that which had been obtained by theft, and adopts every means that the presenters should be detained; if all the money changers were as particular in that respect, thieves would derive no benefit in coming over to France with their stolen notes. The office of Madame Emerique has been the longest established of any, and the high respectability of her family and connexions are a certain guarantee for the foreigner against being imposed upon. The number of hotels in Paris is immense; as I always frequent the same which I have known for nearly 20 years, of course I can recommend it, both as regards the extreme respectability of the persons by whom it is kept and the moderation of the charges; it is situated at No. 71, Rue Richelieu, and is called the Hotel de Valois, Baths abound in Paris, but the Bains Chinois, Boulevart des Italiens, are of the oldest date, and have been visited by the most illustrious persons. Amongst the rest, the proprietor declares that William the Fourth attended them at the time he was sojourning incognito at Paris. Amongst the numerous list of Bankers, those which are most frequented by the English are Madame Luc Callaghan and Son, No. 40, Rue de la Ferme-des-Mathurins; Monsieur le Baron Rothschild, Rue Laffitte, and Messrs. Laffitte, Blount and Comp., No. 52, Rue Basse-du-Rempart.

Amongst the multitude of interesting spots which surround Paris, Versailles is pre-eminent, not only for the grandeur of the palace, the beauty of the gardens, etc., but it has now received so many objects of art, and its collection of pictures is so immense, that it may be considered the Museum of France; but there are so many works written upon it, and its description must be so voluminous to render it any justice, that I must content myself with referring my readers to those publications which have already appeared on the subject. St. Cloud, St. Germains, St. Denis and Fontainebleau are too remarkable to be lightly touched, particularly the two latter, upon which there are publications giving the most ample details of all which they contain that is interesting; those works therefore I must also recommend for the visiter's perusal.

Before I bid adieu to my readers, I must not omit to mention an institution formed in Paris, which does honour to the English character; it is entitled the British Charitable Fund, and was founded in 1822, under the patronage of the British Ambassador, and is entirely supported by voluntary contributions, for the purpose of relieving old and distressed British subjects, or of sending them to their native country; suffice it to say, that there have been within the last ten years 11,500 persons relieved, and 2,571 sent to Great Britain.

There are quite a host of steam-boat establishments, having their agents and offices in Paris, but that for which the agency has been confided to M. Chauteauneuf, No. 8, Boulevart Montmartre, embraces so wide a field that I consider in recommending my readers to him, I afford them the opportunity of obtaining all the information they can require upon the subject; the Company could not have selected any one more capable of fulfilling the duties of such an office, as besides his extreme civility and attention to all applicants, he speaks many different languages, as French, English, Spanish, Italian, etc. The boats for which he is agent proceed from Dunkirk to St. Petersburg, touching direct at Copenhagen, and privileged by the Emperor of Russia; the passage is effected in 6 or 7 days. Dunkirk to Hamburg in 36 or 40 hours, corresponding with all the steamers on the Baltic and the Elbe. Dunkirk to Rotterdam in 10 or 12 hours, communicating with all the navigation upon the Rhine. Boulogne to London by the Commercial Steam Company. Antwerp to New York, touching at Southampton; Marseilles to Nice, Genoa, Leghorn, Civita Vecchia, Naples, Sicily, Malta and the Levant, by the steamers of the Neapolitan Company. The above vessels are fitted up in the most efficient and solid manner, with English machinery. At Lyons there is a corresponding office for the navigation of the interior, held by Messrs. Jackson, Dufour, and Comp., No. 7, Quai St. Clair. M. Chateauneuf is very obliging in explaining all the details of the different tarifs of the custom duties of the various countries with which the steamers communicate.

A very great convenience exists in Paris, which I think much wanted in London, and that is what are termed Cabinets de Lecture, where you may read all the principal papers and periodical pamphlets for the small expense of 3 sous; some are higher, where English newspapers are taken, when the price is five sous; they are mostly circulating libraries at the same time. But those who wish to see all or the greater part of the London and some provincial and foreign papers, will find them at Galignani's, and at an English reading room established in the Rue Neuve St. Augustin, No. 55, near the Rue de la Paix; at both these establishments the admittance is ten sous. The only English newspaper at present published in Paris is by Galignani, which contains extracts judiciously selected from the French and English papers, besides other useful information.

The investment of capital in land in France will rarely produce more than 31/2 per cent and very frequently less; in the purchase of houses in Paris 5 or 51/2, sometimes 6, is obtained; in the funds about 41/2. Numbers of persons in France place their money on hypotheque, or mortgage, by which they make 5 per cent; the affair is arranged by means of a notaire, but often the most lucrative manner of placing money is what is called en commandite, that is, they invest a fixed sum in different descriptions of business, from which they receive a certain share, not appearing in the concern otherwise than having deposited a stated amount of money in it, for which alone, in case of bankruptcy, they are liable. A considerable portion of the French lend their money to different tradespeople, getting the best security they can, sometimes merely personal; 6 per cent is the regular interest that is given, and it is a very rare case that the capital is lost, as the lender takes great precautions in ascertaining the exact state of the borrower's affairs.

Although rents are so immensely high in the centre of Paris, one house, No. 104, Rue Richelieu, letting for 120,000 francs, (4,800l.) a year, yet as you diverge in any direction towards the walls of the city a house may be had for much less under the same circumstances than in London, and just outside a substantial dwelling of eight or ten rooms, with an acre of garden beautifully laid out, will only be 40l., a year. Some of the villages round Paris are very agreeably situated, but are dreadfully cut up by the fortifications, particularly the favourite spot of the Parisians, the Bois de Boulogne, where many families amongst the tradespeople go and pass their whole Sunday under the trees; and the innumerable rides and walks through the wood, and its very picturesque appearance tempt all ranks at all hours of the day; part of it remains unspoiled by the walls and forts constructing for the defence of Paris, but it was much to be regretted that any portion should have been destroyed for an object, the utility of which still seems an enigma.

As prices of provisions are so constantly varying that I determined to leave them entirely to the last, that I might be enabled to give the latest information respecting them; in most instances they are much dearer than they were a few years since, particularly meat, which now may be quoted on an average of 8d. a pound, and veal, if the choice parts be selected, 1d. or even 2d. more at some seasons, but joints where there is much proportion of bone may be had for 7d.; best wheaten bread is at present 13/4d., a pound; butter, best quality, s. 6d.; cheese 10d. Poultry is much higher than formerly; a fine fowl 3s. a duck, 2s.; a goose 4s.; a turkey 6s. and much dearer at some periods of the year; pigeons' eggs 81/2d. each; a hare 4s.; a rabbit 1s. 6d. Vegetables are generally pretty cheap, potatoes hardly 1/2d. a pound, cauliflowers, brocoli, and asparagus at a much less price than in London; the finer sorts of fruits, as peaches, nectarines, apricots, greengages, grapes, etc., are very reasonable, but on the whole Paris is very little cheaper than London; the principal difference is in the wine, which is to be had at all prices from 5d. to 5s. a bottle, but by arranging with the Maison Meunier, 22, Rue des Saints-Peres, the house I have recommended, by taking a certain quantity, very good Bordeaux may be had, which will only come to about 1s. 6d. a bottle. Fuel is the dearest article in Paris; coals, of which there is not much consumption, are considerably higher than in London, but yet much cheaper than burning wood. In the best part of Paris a well furnished sitting and bed room is 4l. a month; in other parts only half the price. Brandy and liqueurs are much cheaper than in England; beer from 2d. to 4d. a bottle, but taking a cask it comes cheaper. Best white sugar 10d. Tea from 4s. upwards, coffee 2s. to 3s. It must be remembered that the pound weight in France has two ounces more than in England.

There is one peculiarity the stranger should remark in Paris which will much assist him in finding a house he may be seeking; the even numbers are always on one side of a street and the odd on the other and in all the streets running south and north the numbers commence from the Seine, so that the farther you get from the river the higher the figure amounts; and, as you proceed from that source the even numbers will be found on the right side and the uneven on the left. Those streets which run east and west commence their numbers from the Hotel-de-Ville, or Town-Hall, the even numbers also being on the right hand side and uneven on the opposite.

* * * * *

Aware that my countrymen are ever amateurs of engravings, lithographies, etc., I must repair the omission of having forgotten to mention Mr. Sinnett, the only English publisher of engravings living in Paris, and as he has an enthusiastic passion for the arts, accompanied by the most correct judgment, the selection of his subjects are such as cannot fail to gratify every person of taste; he also acts as an agent both for the Paris and London print-sellers, and by the arrangements into which he has entered, is enabled to furnish individuals with engravings of both countries on the most advantageous terms, foregoing those charges which it is customary to impose under similar circumstances. The English have it, therefore, in their power to procure from Mr. Sinnett any print, whether published in England or France, at a lower price than in any other house in Paris. His address is No. 15, grande rue Verte, faubourg Saint-Honore.

THE END.



INDEX.

Pages. Abattoir 215 Academic royale 207 Actors et actresses 396 to 404 Agriculture 37 Arago 186, 391 Archives 237 Arches, triumphal 42, 270 Armour 216 Army 353 Arsenal 225 Artificial flowers 326 Artists 334 Athenaeum 359 Auber 369 Authors 360

Balls 405 Bank 257 Bankers 411 Barriers 45 Barrot. Odilon 390 Bears 177 Beranger 361 Berryer 391 Bievre 182 Boarding house 279 Boarding-schools 348 Bonnets 332 Boots 289 Bouffe 107 Boulevart 100 Boulogne 26 Bourse 259 Breakfasts 137 Bronze 341

Cabriolets 379 Cafe Hardy 405 Calais 24 Canes 319 Caps 332 Carnival 405 Carriages 379 Catacombs 186 Cavalry 352 Cercles 136 Chamber of Deputies 220 Chamber of Peers 201 Champs-Elysees 42, 278 Champ de Mars 216 Chapelle Beaujon 275 — Episcopal 276 — Expiatoire 276 — Marboeuf 278 — Sainte 171 Chateaubriand 366 China 301 Churches, Abbaye-aux-Bois 214 — L'Assomption 96, 369 — La Madeleine 400 — Notre-Dame 69, 472 — des Blancs-Manteaux 236 — des Victoires or des Petits-Peres 257 — de Loretto 259 — Saint-Ambroise 232 — Saint-Denis 235 — Sainte-Elisabeth 246 — Saint-Etienne-du Mont 190 — Saint-Eustache 254 — Saint-Francois-d'Assises 237 — Saint-Francois-Xavier 217 — St.-Germ.-l'Auxerrois 61, 237 — St-Germain-des-Pres 61, 205 — Saint-Gervais 239 — St-Jacques-du-Haut-Pas 189 — Saint-Laurent 248 — Saint-Leo-et-Saint-Gilles 251 — Saint-Louis en I'lle 174 — Ste. Marguerite 228 — St. Medard 184 — St. Merry 88, 242 — St. Nicholas-des-Champs 242 — St. Nicholas-du-Chardonnet 193 — St. Paul et St. Louis 238 — St. Philippe-du-Roule 275 — St. Pierre-de-Chaillot 279 — St. Pierre-du-Gros-Caillou 218 — St. Roch 97, 273 — St. Severin 195 — St. Sulpice, 203 — St. Thomas-d'Aquin, 210 — St. Vincent-de-Paul, 258 — Lutherien, 239 — Oratoire, 266 — Sorbonne, 196 — Val-de-Grace, 184 — Visitation, 226 Clothes, 287 Coiffeur, 317 Coffee-houses, 137 Collections of pictures, 407 Colleges, Bourbon, 276 — Charlemagne, 233 — Henry IV, 191 — De France, 192 — Louis-le-Grand, 191 — St. Louis, 198 — Irish, 190 — Scotch, 190 — Sorbonne, 196 Colours, 300 Columns, 43, 103, 226 Conservatory of Arts et Trades, 243 — of music, 258 Convents of Benedictines, 245 — Carmelites, 202 — English Augustines, 190 — Dames de St. Thomas, 214 — Lazarists, 214 — Noviciat religieuses Hospitalieres, 214 — Sacre-Coeur, 212 Copying machine, 386 Crockery, 293 Custom-House, 380 Cutlery, 201

Diligences, 378 Dinners, 105 Dress, 123 Dressing-cases, 302 Dyeing et cleansing, 304

Earthen-ware, 293 Ecole militaire, 215 Economy, 286 Education, 124 Elysee-Bourbon, 274 Engravings, 417

Fancy Stationary, 294 Fashions, 324 Fiacres, 379 Flowers, 102

Principal Fountains.

Fountain, Boulevart-St. Martin, 109 — des Champs-Elysees, 42, 278 — du Chatelet, 252 — Cuvier, 182 — de Grenelle, 211 — du marche des Innocents, 253 — de la place de la Concorde, 43 — de la Place Richelieu, 260 Funerals, 384

Garde-Meuble, 43, 258 Gardens, des Plantes, 175 — Luxembourg, 200 — Tuileries, 272 George-Mademoiselle, 404 Glass, 301 Gloves, 330 Gobelin tapestry, 132 Guizot, 364, 387 Guns, 312

Haberdashery, 322 Hats, 288 Homeopathie, 280 Horsemanship, 138

Principal Hospitals.

D'Accouchement, 185 Blind, 227 ——- Children, 194 Deaf and Dumb, 188 Hotel-Dieu, 174 Incurables (men), 248 ————— (women), 214 Invalids, 216 Orphan, 188 De la Pitie, 181 Salpetriere, 181 St. Louis, 247 Sick children, 214 Val-de-Grace, 184 Hotels de Cluny, 197 — de Carnavalet, 234 — des Invalides, 210 — de la Monnaie, 206 — de Soubise, 238 — de Sully, 233 — de Valois, 411 — de Ville, 240

Institut, 207 Infantry, 352 Lamartine, 361

Lace, 329

Principal public Libraries.

Arsenal, 225 Hotel-de-Ville, 240 Mazarine, 207 Royal, 260 Sainte-Genevieve, 191 Linen drapery, 325 Liqueurs, 283 Literature, 360 Lithographies, 310 Lodgings, 416 Louis-Philippe, 32, 101, 358 Louvre, 89, 267, 406 Luxembourg, 98, 200

Mails, 378 Maps et plans in relief, 311 Marriage, 128, 383

Principal Markets.

— Corn, or Halle an Ble, 255 — Flowers, 171 — Innocents, 353 — St. Germain, 204 — St. Honore, 273 — St. Laurent, 248 — St. Martin, 245 Meat, 286 Medicines, 292 Middle classes, 123, 135 Ministers, 302 Mint, 200 Mirrors (manufacture of), 228 Money-changers, 410 Modes, 324 Mont-de-Piete, 236 Morgue, 172 Music, 368 Musical snuff-boxes, 302

National guards, 354 Navy, 355 Needles, 321 Newspapers, 414

Observatory, 185

Palais-royal, 263 — de-Justice, 170 — de la Legion-d'Honneur, 221 — du Quai d'Orsay, 222 — des Beaux-Arts, 208 Pantheon, 189 Passports, 381 Pens, 290 Pencil-cases, 305 Pere La Chaise, 229 Perfumery, 320 Phosphorus matches et boxes, 297 Piano-fortes, 314 Plate-glass manufacture, 250 Polytechnic, 192 Post-office, 380 Press, English, 354 Press, French, 355, 385 Printing establishment, royal, 237 Prints, 417

Principal Prisons.

— Abbaye, 205 — Conciergerie, 171 — Debtors, 277 — La Force, 234 — Jeunes Detenus, 231 — De la Roquette, 231 — Saint-Lazare, 249 — Sainte-Pelagie, 181 Purses, 376

Rachel, 394 Reading-rooms, 413 Religion, 309 Restaurateurs, 105 Rents, 119 Riding-school, 140 Rouen, 22

Seal engraver, 306

Principal Seminaries.

— Foreign Missionaries, 211 — St. Nicolas Chardonnet, 194 — St. Sulpice, 204 Shirts, 316 Silk mercery and fancy goods, 343 Sisters of Charity, 188, 243 School of Medicine, 199 — Drawing, 199 — Mines, 200 — Pharmacy, 134 — Ponts et Chaussees, 212 Shoes, ladies, 328 — gentlemen, 289 Societies, scientific, 359 Soult, 392 Stays, 157 Steam, boats, 412 Surgical instruments, 307

Tailors, 287, 319 Temple, 245

Principal Theatres.

— Italian Opera, 397 — French Opera 398 — Comique Opera, 399 — Theatre Francais, 400 — Gymnase, 401 — Varietes, 401 — Vaudeville, 402 — Palais Royal, 143 — Porte St. Martin, 405 — Ambigu Comique, 405 — La Gaite, 404 — Cirque Olympique, 110 — Fulies Dramatiques, 404 — Odeon, 404 Thiers, 388 Timepieces, 315 Tuileries, 270

Umbrellas et parasols, 319

Whips, 319 Wine, 283

THE END