The interior of the hall has been renovated, having been much injured in 1828, when the exterior was covered with stucco. The brick front is again visible, and the panelling and roof within are of carved oak. There are coats of arms in the windows, and on the walls hang portraits of Charles I., Charles II., James II., and the two Bacons—father and son—Sir Nicholas and Viscount St. Albans, who are the chief legal luminaries of the "ancient and honourable society." The library, modern, adjoins on the east, and contains a collection of important records and printed books on law.

Passing through an arch at the western end of the hall, we enter Gray's Inn Square, formerly Chapel Court. The chapel is close to the library on the north side, and opens into Gray's Inn Square. This court was probably open on the north side to the fields before the reign of Charles II. Some of the buildings surrounding it are in a good Queen Anne style, and some have the cross-mullioned windows of a still earlier period. The exterior of the chapel is covered with stucco. The interior, which is very small—there being only seating for a congregation of about one hundred—was carefully examined three years ago, when a proposal was made to build a new chapel. The Gothic windows, walled up by the library to the south, came to light, and there seems some probability that the building is mainly that of Lord Grey's chantry of 1315. Some improvements and repairs to the interior have saved the little chapel for the present. There are no monuments visible, but four Archbishops of Canterbury who were connected with the Inn are commemorated in the east window. They were Whitgift (1583-1604), Juxon (1660-1663), Wake (1715-1737), Laud (1633-1645), and in the centre Becket, whose only claim to be in such a goodly company appears to be that a window "gloriously painted," with the figure of St. Thomas of London, was destroyed by Edward Hall, the Reader, in 1539, according to the King's injunctions. A subsequent window, showing our Lord on the Mount, had long disappeared, and some heraldry was all the east end of the chapel could boast.

The gardens open by a handsome gate of wrought iron into Field Court, which is westward of Gray's Inn Square. Here Bacon planted the trees, and enjoyed the view northward, then all open, from a summer-house which was only removed about 1754. Bacon lived in Coney Court, destroyed by fire in 1678, which looked on the garden.

Among the names of eminent men which occur to the memory in Gray's Inn, we must mention a tradition which makes Chief Justice Gascoigne a student here. More real is Thomas Cromwell, the terrible Vicar-General of Henry VIII. Sir Thomas Gresham was a member of the Inn, as was his contemporary Camden, the antiquary. Lord Burghley and his second son, Robert, Earl of Salisbury, were both members, it is said, but certainly Burghley. The list of casual inhabitants is almost inexhaustible, being swelled by the heroes of many novels, actually or entirely fictitious. Shakespeare was said to have played in the hall. Bradshaw, who presided at the trial of Charles I., was a bencher; and so was Holt, the Chief Justice of William III. More eminent than either, perhaps, was Sir Samuel Romilly, whose sad death in 1818 caused universal regret. Pepys mentions the walks, and observed the fashionable beauties after church one Sunday in May, 1662. Sir Roger de Coverley is placed on the terrace by Addison, and both Dryden, Shadwell, and other old dramatists speak of the gardens. It was at Gray's Inn Gate—the old gate into Portpool Lane—that Jacob Tonson, the great bookseller and publisher of the eighteenth century, had his shop.

The district northward of Gray's Inn needs very little comment. Great St. James Street is picturesque, with eighteenth-century doorways and carved brackets; the tenants of the houses are nearly all solicitors. Little St. James Street is insignificant and diversified by mews. In Strype's plan the rectangle formed by these two streets is marked "Bowling Green"; in one corner is "the Cockpitt."

Bedford Row is a very quiet, broad thoroughfare lined by eighteenth-century houses of considerable height and size, which for the most part still retain their noble staircases and well-proportioned rooms. Nearly every house is cut up into chambers. Abernethy, the great surgeon, formerly lived in this street, and Addington, Viscount Sidmouth, was born here; Bishop Warburton, the learned theologian and writer of the eighteenth century, and Elizabeth, daughter of Oliver Cromwell, are also said to have been among the residents. Ralph, the author of "Publick Buildings," admired it prodigiously, naming it one of the finest streets in London.

Red Lion Square took its name from a very well-known tavern in Holborn, one of the largest and most notable of the old inns. There is a modern successor, a Red Lion public-house, at the corner of Red Lion Street. To the ancient inn the bodies of the regicides were brought the night before they were dragged on hurdles to be exposed at Tyburn. This gave rise to a tradition, which still haunts the spot, that some of these men, including Cromwell, were buried in the Square, and that dummy bodies were substituted to undergo the ignominy at Tyburn.

There was for many years in the centre of the Square an obelisk with the inscription, "Obtusum Obtusioris Ingenii Monumentum Quid me respicis viator? Vade." And an attempt has been made to read the mysterious inscription as a Cromwellian epitaph. Pennant says that in his time the obelisk had recently vanished, which gives the date of destruction about 1780.

The Square was built about 1698, and is curiously laid out, with streets running diagonally from the corners as well as rectangularly from the sides. It had formerly a watch-house at each corner, as well as the obelisk in the centre. It is at present lined by brick houses of uniform aspect and unequal heights, with here and there a conspicuously modern building. The centre is laid out as a public garden, and forms a green and pleasant oasis in a very poor district.

St. John the Evangelist's Church, of red brick, designed by Pearson, stands at the south-west corner. It was built 1876-1878, and is very conspicuous, with two pointed towers and a handsome, deeply-recessed east window. Next door is the clergy house. There are in the Square various associations and societies, including the Mendicity Society, Indigent Blind Visiting Society, St. Paul's Hospital, and others. Milton had a house which overlooked Red Lion Fields, the site of the Square, and Jonas Hanway, traveller and philanthropist, also a voluminous writer, but who will be best remembered as the first man in England to carry an umbrella, died here in 1786. Sharon Turner, historian, came here after his marriage in 1795, and Lord Chief Justice Raymond, who held his high office in the reign of the first and second Georges, lived in the Square. But a later association will, perhaps, be more interesting to most people: for about three years previously to 1859 Sir E. Burne-Jones and William Morris lived in rooms at No. 17, before either was married.

Of the surrounding streets, those at the south-east and north-east angles are the most quaint. An old house with red tiles stands at each corner, and the remaining houses, though not so picturesque, are of ancient date. The streets are mere flagged passages lined by open stalls and little shops.

Kingsgate Street is so named because it had a gate at the end through which the King used to pass to Newmarket. It is mentioned by Pepys, who under date March 8, 1669, records that the King's coach was upset here, throwing out Charles himself, the Dukes of York and Monmouth, and Prince Rupert, who were "all dirt, but no hurt." Near the end of this street in Holborn was the Vine Inn, important as having kept alive the only reference in Domesday Book to this district, "a vineyard in Holborn" belonging to the Crown.

Part of Theobald's Road was once King's Way; it was the direct route to King James I.'s hunting-lodge, Theobald's, in Hertfordshire. It was in this part, at what is now 22, Theobald's Road, that Benjamin Disraeli is supposed to have been born; but many other places in the neighbourhood also claim to be his birthplace, though not with so much authority. There was a cockpit in this Road in the eighteenth century.

We are now in the diminutive parish of St. George the Martyr, carved out of that of St. Andrew's, Holborn, and originally including Red Lion Square and the streets adjacent.

Gloucester Street was named after Queen Anne's sickly little son, the only one of her seventeen children who survived infancy. Robert Nelson, author of "Fasts and Festivals," was at one time a resident. The street is narrow and dirty, lined by old brick houses; here and there is a carved doorway with brackets, showing that, like most streets in the vicinity, it was better built than now inhabited, and it is probable that where sickly children now sprawl on doorsteps stately ladies in hoops and silken skirts once stepped forth. St. George's National Schools are here, and a public-house with the odd name of Hole in the Wall, a name adopted by Mr. Morrison in his recent novel about Wapping.

Queen Square was built in Queen Anne's reign, and named in her honour, but it is a statue of Queen Charlotte that stands beneath the plane-trees in the centre.

When it was first built, much eulogy was bestowed upon it, because of the beautiful view to the Hampstead and Highgate Hills, for which reason the north side was left open; it is still open, but the prospect it commands is only the further side of Guilford Street. The Square is a favourite place for charitable institutions. On the east side was, until 1902, a College for Working Men and Women, designed to aid by evening classes the studies of those who are busy all day.

The Hospital for Paralysis and Epilepsy is on the same side. This was instituted in 1859, but the present building was in 1885 opened by the Prince of Wales, and is a memorial to the Duke of Albany, and a very splendid memorial it is. The building, which occupies a very large space along the side of the Square, is ornately built of red brick and terra-cotta, with handsome balconies and a porch of the latter material. There are four wards for men and five for women, with two small surgical wards; also two contributing wards for patients who can afford to pay something toward their expenses.

Almost exactly opposite, across the Square, is a new red-brick building. This is the Alexandra Hospital, for children with hip disease, and sometimes a wan little face peeps out of the windows.

On the south side is the Italian Hospital, lately rebuilt on a fine scale. There are other institutions and societies in the Square, such as the Royal Female School of Art, but none that call for any special comment.

Among the eminent inhabitants of the Square were Dr. Stukeley, the antiquary, appointed Rector of the church, 1747—he lived here from the following year until his death in 1765; Dr. Askew; and John Campbell, author, and friend of Johnson, who used to give Sunday evening "conversation parties," where the great Doctor met "shoals of Scotchmen."

The Church of St. George the Martyr stands on the west side of the Square, facing the open space at the south end. It was founded in 1706 by private subscription as a chapel of ease to St. Andrew, and was named in honour of one of the founders, who had been Governor of Fort George, on the coast of Coromandel. "The Martyr" was added to distinguish it from the other St. George in the vicinity. It was accepted as one of the fifty new churches by the Commissioners in Queen Anne's reign, was consecrated in 1723, and had a district assigned to it. It was entirely rearranged and restored in 1868, and has lately been repainted. It is a most peculiar-looking church, with a spire cased in zinc. Small figures of angels embellish some points of vantage, and the symbols of the four Evangelists appear in niches. The windows are round-headed, with tracery of a peculiarly ugly type; but the interior is better than the exterior, and has lately been repaired and redecorated throughout.

Powis House originally stood where Powis Place, Great Ormond Street, now is. This was built by the second Marquis or Duke of Powis, even before he had sold his Lincoln's Inn Fields house to the Duke of Newcastle, for he was living here in 1708. The second Duke was, like his father, a Jacobite, and had suffered much for his loyalty to the cause, having endured imprisonment in the Tower, but he was eventually restored to his position and estates. The house was burnt down in 1714, when the Duc d'Aumont, French Ambassador, was tenant, and it was believed that the fire was the work of an incendiary. The French King, Louis XIV., caused it to be rebuilt at his own cost, though insurance could have been claimed. In 1777 this later building was taken down.

Lord Chancellor Thurlow lived in this street at No. 46, and it was from this house, now the Working Men's College, that the Great Seal was stolen and never recovered.

Dr. Mead, a well-known physician, had a house here, afterwards occupied by the Hospital for Sick Children.

The Working Men's College began at the instigation of a barrister in 1848, and was fathered by the Rev. F. D. Maurice, who was Principal until his death. It grew rapidly, and in 1856 became affiliated to London University. The adjacent house was bought, in 1870 additional buildings were erected, and four years later the institution received a charter of incorporation. Maurice was succeeded in the principalship by Thomas Hughes, and Hughes by Lord Avebury, then Sir John Lubbock.

The Hospital for Sick Children is a red-brick building designed by Sir C. Barry. Within, the wards are lined by glazed tiles, and the floors are of parquet. Each ward is named after some member of the Royal Family—Helena, Alice, etc. The children are received at any age, and the beds are well filled. Everything, it is needless to say, is in the beautifully bright and cleanly style which is associated with the modern hospital. The chapel is particularly beautiful; it is the gift of Mr. W. H. Barry, a brother of the architect, and the walls are adorned with frescoes above inlaid blocks of veined alabaster.

The Homoeopathic Hospital, which is on the same side of the street nearer to the Square, is another large and noticeable building. This is the only hospital of the kind in London. The present building occupies the site of three old houses, one of which was the residence of Zachary Macaulay, father of the historian. There are in all seven wards, two for men, three for women, one for girls, and one for children. The children's ward is as pretty as any private nursery could be. The hospital is absolutely free, and the out-patient department exceptionally large.

In Great Ormond Street there are also one or two Benefit Societies, Manchester Unity Independent Order of Oddfellows for the North London District, and many sets of chambers. This district seems particularly favourable to the growth of charitable institutions.

Lamb's Conduit Street is called after one Lamb, who built a conduit here in 1577. This was a notable work in the days when the water-supply was a very serious problem. Thus, a very curious name is accounted for in a matter-of-fact way. In Queen Anne's time the fields around here formed a favourite promenade for the citizens when the day's work was done.

The parish of St. George, Bloomsbury, which lies westward of St. George the Martyr, is considerably larger than its neighbour. The derivation of this name is generally supposed to be a corruption of Blemund's Fee, from one William de Blemund, who was Lord of the Manor in Henry VI.'s reign. Stow and others have written the word "Loomsbury," or "Lomesbury," but this seems to be due to careless orthography, and not to indicate any ancient rendering.

The earliest holder of the manor of whom we have any record is the De Blemund mentioned above. There are intermediate links missing at a later date, but with the possession of the Southampton family in the very beginning of the seventeenth century the history becomes clear again. In 1668 the manor passed into the hands of the Bedfords by marriage with the heiress of the Southamptons. This family also held St. Giles's, which, it will be remembered, was originally also part of the Prebendary of St. Paul's.

The Royal Mews was established at Bloomsbury (Lomesbury) from very early times to 1537, when it was burnt down and the mews removed to the site of the present National Gallery (see The Strand, same series).

The parish is largely composed of squares, containing three large and two small ones, from which nearly all the streets radiate. The British Museum forms an imposing block in the centre. This is on the site of Montague House, built for the first Baron Montague, and burnt to the ground in 1686. It was rebuilt again in great magnificence, with painted ceilings, according to the taste of the time, and Lord Montague, then Duke of Montague, died in it in 1709. The house and gardens occupied seven acres. The son and heir of the first Duke built for himself a mansion at Whitehall (see Westminster, same series, p. 83), and Montague House was taken down in 1845, when the present buildings of the Museum were raised in its stead.

The Museum has rather a curious history. Like many of our national institutions, it was the result of chance, and not of a detailed scheme. In 1753 Sir Hans Sloane, whose name is associated so strongly with Chelsea, died, and left a splendid collection comprising "books, drawings, manuscripts, prints, medals, seals, cameos, precious stones, rare vessels, mathematical instruments, and pictures," which had cost him something like L50,000. By his will Parliament was to have the first refusal of this collection for L20,000. Though it was in the reign of the needy George II., the sum was voted, and by the same Act was bought the Harleian collection of MSS. to add to it; to this was added the Cottonian Library of MSS., and the nation had a ready-made collection. The money to pay for the Sloane and Harleian collections was raised by an easy method of which modern morals do not approve—that is to say, by lottery. Many suggestions were made as to the housing of this national collection. Buckingham House, now Buckingham Palace, was spoken of, also the old Palace Yard; of course, the modern Houses of Parliament were not then built. Eventually Montague House was bought, and the Museum was opened to the public in 1757. However, it had not ceased growing. George III. presented some antiquities, which necessitated the opening of a new department; to these were added the Hamilton and Townley antiquities by purchase, and in 1816 the Elgin Marbles were taken in temporarily. On the death of George III., George IV. presented his splendid library, known as the King's Library, to the Museum, not from any motive of generosity, but because he did not in the least appreciate it. Greville, in his Journal (1823), says: "The King had even a design of selling the library collected by the late King, but this he was obliged to abandon, for the Ministers and the Royal Family must have interposed to oppose so scandalous a transaction. It was therefore presented to the British Museum."

It then became necessary to pull down Montague House and build a Museum worthy of the treasures to be enshrined. Sir Robert Smirke was the architect, and the present massive edifice is from his designs. The buildings cost more than L800,000.

As this is no guide-book, no attempt is made to classify the departments of the Museum or to indicate its riches. These may be found by experiment, or read in the official guides to be bought on the spot.

On the east is Montague Street, running into Russell Square.

Southampton House, the ancient manor-house, celebrated for the famous lime-trees surrounding it, stood on the ground now occupied by Bedford Place. Noorthouck describes it as "elegant though low, having but one storey." It is commonly supposed to have been the work of Inigo Jones. When the property came into the Bedford family, it was occasionally called Russell House, after their family name. Maitland says that, when he wrote, one of the Parliamentary forts, two batteries, and a breastwork, remained in the garden. The house was demolished in 1800, and Russell Square was begun soon after. A double row of the lime-trees belonging to Bedford House had extended over the site of this Square. All this ground had previously been known as Southampton Fields, or Long Fields, and was the resort of low classes of the people, who here fought their pitched battles, generally on Sundays. It was known during the period of Monmouth's Rebellion as the Field of the Forty Footsteps, owing to the tradition that two brothers killed each other here in a duel, while the lady who was the cause of the conflict looked on. Subsequently no grass grew on the spots where the brothers had planted their feet.

Southey, in his "Commonplace Book," thus narrates his own visit to the spot:

"We sought for near half an hour in vain. We could find no steps at all within a quarter of a mile, no, nor half a mile, of Montague House. We were almost out of hope, when an honest man, who was at work, directed us to the next ground, adjoining to a pond. There we found what we sought, about three-quarters of a mile north of Montague House, and 500 yards east of Tottenham Court Road. The steps are of the size of a large human foot, about three inches deep, and lie nearly from north-east to south-west. We counted only seventy-six; but we were not exact in counting. The place where one or both the brothers are supposed to have fallen is still bare of grass. The labourer also showed us where (the tradition is) the wretched woman sat to see the combat." Southey adds his full confidence in the tradition of the indestructibility of the steps, even after ploughing up, and of the conclusions to be drawn from the circumstance (Notes and Queries, No. 12).

A long-forgotten novel, called "Coming Out; or, The Field of the Forty Footsteps," was founded on this legend, as was also a melodrama.

Russell Square is very little inferior to Lincoln's Inn Fields in size, and at the time of its building had a magnificent situation, with an uninterrupted prospect right up to the hills of Hampstead and Highgate, and the only house then standing was on the east side; it belonged to the profligate Lord Baltimore, and was later occupied by the Duke of Bolton. The new Russell Hotel, at the corner of Guilford Street, and Pitman's School of Shorthand, in the south-eastern corner, are the only two buildings to note. A bronze statue of Francis, Duke of Bedford, executed by Westmacott, stands on the south side of the Square; this faces a similar statue of Fox in Bloomsbury Square.

The Square seems to have been peculiarly attractive to men high up in the profession of the law. Sir Samuel Romilly, the great law reformer, lived here until his sad death in 1818; he committed suicide in grief at the loss of his wife. In the same year his neighbour Charles Abbot, afterwards first Baron Tenterden, was made Lord Chief Justice. He was buried at the Foundling Hospital by his own request. In 1793 Alexander Wedderburn (first Baron Loughborough and first Earl of Rosslyn), also a resident in the Square, was appointed Lord Chancellor. After this he probably moved to the official residence in Bedford Square.

Frederick D. Maurice was at No. 5 from 1856 to 1862. Sir Thomas Lawrence lived for twenty years at No. 65, and while he was executing the portrait of Platoff, the Russian General, the Cossacks, mounted on small white horses, stood on guard in the Square before his door.

Bloomsbury Square was at first called Southampton Square, and the sides were known by different names—Seymour Row, Vernon Street, and Allington Row. The north side was occupied by Bedford House. It is considerably older than its large neighbour on the north, and is mentioned by Evelyn in his Diary, on February 9, 1665. In Queen Anne's reign it was a most fashionable locality. The houses suffered greatly during the Gordon Riots, especially Lord Mansfield's house, in the north-east corner, which was completely ruined internally, and in which a most valuable library was destroyed, while Lord and Lady Mansfield made their escape from the mob by a back-door. Pope refers to the Square as a fashionable place of resort. Among the names of famous residents we have Sir Richard Steele, Richard Baxter, the Nonconformist divine, Dr. Akenside, and Sir Hans Sloane. The elder D'Israeli, who compiled "Curiosities of Literature," lived in No. 6; he came here in 1818, when his famous son was a boy of fourteen.

The College of Preceptors stands on the south side. The Pharmaceutical Society, established in 1841, first took a house in the Square in that year. It was incorporated by royal charter two years later, and in 1857 the two adjacent houses in Great Russell Street were added to the premises, which include a library and museum. There is also at No. 30 the Institute of Chemistry of Great Britain and Ireland.

In Southampton Street Colley Cibber, the dramatist and actor, was born.

Silver Street, which is connected with Southampton Street by a covered entry, is described by Strype as "indifferent well built and inhabited"—a character it apparently keeps up to this day.

Bloomsbury Market Strype describes as "a long place with two market-houses, the one for flesh and the other for fish, but of small account by reason the market is of so little use and so ill served with provisions, insomuch that the inhabitants deal elsewhere." In Parton's time it was still extant, "exhibiting little of that bustle and business which distinguishes similar establishments." Though it was cleared away in 1847, its site is marked by Market Street, which with Silver and Bloomsbury Streets forms a cross.

Southampton Row is a very long street, extending from Russell Square to High Holborn. It includes what was formerly King Street and Upper King Street, which together reached from High Holborn to Bloomsbury Place. Gray, the poet, lodged in this Row in 1759.

The Church of St. George is in Hart Street. St. George's parish was formed from St. Giles's on account of the great increase of buildings in this district. In 1710 the proposal for a new church was first mooted, and in 1724 the parishes were officially separated. The church stands on a piece of ground formerly known as Plough Yard. It is the work of Hawkesmoor, Wren's pupil, and was consecrated in 1730. It cannot be better described than in the words of Noorthouck: "This is an irregular and oddly constructed church; the portico stands on the south side, of the Corinthian order, and makes a good figure in the street, but has no affinity to the church, which is very heavy, and would be better suited with a Tuscan portico. The steeple at the west is a very extraordinary structure; on a round pedestal at the top of a pyramid is placed a colossal statue of the late King [George I.], and at the corners near the base are alternately placed the lion and unicorn, the British supporters, with festoons between. These animals, being very large, are injudiciously placed over columns very small, which make them appear monsters." The lions and unicorns have now been removed. This steeple has been described by Horace Walpole as a masterpiece of absurdity. Within, the walls rise right up to the roof with no break, and give an impression of great spaciousness. There is a small chapel on either side, that on the east, of an apselike shape, being used as a baptistery. The western one contains a ponderous monument erected in memory of one of their officials by the East India Company. There are other monuments in the church, but none of any general interest. The Communion-table is enclosed by a wooden canopy with fluted columns, said to be of Italian origin, and to have been brought from old Montague House.

In Little Russell Street are the parochial schools. These were established in 1705 in Museum Street, and were removed in 1880 to the present building. They were founded by Dr. Carter for the maintenance, clothing, and education of twenty-five girls, and the clothing and education of eighty boys. The intentions of the founder are still carried out, as recorded on a stone slab on the front of the building, which is a neat brick edifice, with a group of a woman and child in stone in a niche high up, and an appropriate verse from Proverbs below.

Allusion has already been made to New Oxford Street. It extends from Tottenham Court Road to Bury Street, and is lined by fine shops and large buildings, chiefly in the ornamental stuccoed style. The Royal Arcade—"a glass-roofed arcade of shops extending along the rear of four or five of the houses, and having an entrance from the street at each end"—was opened about 1852, but did not answer the expectations formed of it, and was pulled down (Walford).

At the corner of Museum Street, once Peter Street, is Mudie's famous library. The founder, who died in 1890, began a lending library in King Street in 1840, and in 1852 removed to the present quarters. In 1864 the concern was turned into a limited liability company. The distribution of books now reaches almost incredible figures.

Great Russell Street Strype describes as being very handsome and very well inhabited. Thanet House, the town residence of the Thanets in the seventeenth century, stood on the north side. Sir Christopher Wren built a house for himself in this street. Among the inhabitants and lodgers have been Shelley and Hazlitt, J. P. Kemble, Speaker Onslow, Pugin the elder, Charles Mathews the elder, and, in later years, Sir E. Burne-Jones.

At the west end Great Russell Street runs into Tottenham Court Road, a portion of which lies in the parish of St. Giles. Toten Hall itself, from which the name is taken, stood at the south end of the Hampstead Road, and an account of it belongs to the parish of St. Pancras. There is little to remark upon in that part of the Road we can now claim. At the south end is Meux's well-known brewery, bought by the family of that name in 1809. In 1814 an immense vat burst here, which flooded the immediate neighbourhood in a deluge of liquor. The Horseshoe Hotel can claim fairly ancient descent; it has been in existence as a tavern from 1623. It was called the Horseshoe from the shape of its first dining-room. A Consumption Hospital stands midway between North and South Crescent.

Bedford Square also falls within St. Giles's parish, but it belongs by character and date to Bloomsbury. The Square was erected about the very end of the eighteenth century. Dobie says that "Bedford Square arose from a cow-yard to its present magnificent form ... with its avenues and neighbouring streets ... chiefly erected since 1778," while it appears in a map of 1799 as "St. Giles's Runs." The official residence of the Lord Chancellor was on the east side. Lord Loughborough lived there, and subsequently Lord Eldon, who had to escape with his wife into the British Museum gardens when the mob made an attack on his house during the Corn Law riots.

The streets running north and south are all of the same prosperous, substantial character. About Chenies Street large modern red-brick mansions have arisen.

Woburn Square is a quiet place, with fine trees growing in its pleasant garden. In it is Christ Church, the work of Vulliamy, date 1833. It is of Gothic architecture, and is prettily finished with buttresses and pinnacles, in spite of the ugly material used—namely, white brick. It was at first designed to call the Square Rothesay Square, but it was eventually named Woburn, after the seat of the Duke of Bedford.

Great Coram Street was, of course, named after the genial founder of the Foundling Hospital. In it is the Russell Institution, built at the beginning of the century as an assembly-room, and later used as institute and club. It was frequently visited by Dickens, Leech, and Thackeray, the last named of whom came here in 1837, and remained until 1843, when the house had to be given up owing to the incurable nature of his wife's mental malady. He wrote here many papers and articles, including the famous "Yellow-plush Papers," which appeared in Fraser's Magazine; but his novels belong to a later period.

We have now wandered over a district rich in association, containing some of the oldest domestic architecture existing in London, but which, taken as a whole, is chiefly of a date belonging to the late seventeenth and early eighteenth centuries—a date when ladies wore powder and patches, when sedan-chairs were more common than hackney cabs, and when the voice of the link-boy was heard in the streets.



BOUNDARIES OF THE ECCLESIASTICAL PARISHES.

ST. GILES-IN-THE-FIELDS.

This parish is bounded on the south by Castle Street; east by part of Drury Lane, Broad Street, and Dyott Street, thence by a line cutting diagonally across the south-east corner of Bedford Square, across Keppel Street and Torrington Mews, and touching Byng Place at the north-west corner of Torrington Square; on the north by a line cutting across from this point westward, and striking Tottenham Court Road just above Alfred Mews; on the westward by Tottenham Court Road and Charing Cross Road to Cambridge Circus, thence by West Street to the corner of Castle Street, and so the circuit is complete.

ST. GEORGE THE MARTYR.

Bounded on the south by Theobald's Road, on the east by Lamb's Conduit Street (both included in the parish), on the north by Guilford Street, and on the west by Southampton Row (which are not so included).

ST. ANDREW, HOLBORN.

Bounded on the east by Farringdon Street from Charterhouse Street to No. 66, which is just beyond Farringdon Avenue; on the north by Holborn and High Holborn from the Viaduct Bridge to Brownlow Street; on the west by a line drawn from the upper end of Brownlow Street across High Holborn, cutting through No. 292, and through part of Lincoln's Inn (taking in Stone Buildings, and as far as a few yards south of Henry VIII.'s gateway); on the south by a line from Lincoln's Inn across Chancery Lane, along Cursitor Street, cutting across Fetter Lane, down Dean Street to Robin Hood Court, across Shoe Lane to Farringdon Street.

ST. GEORGE, BLOOMSBURY.

Bounded on the south by Broad Street and High Holborn to Kingsgate Street; on the east by Kingsgate Street, and a line behind the east side of Southampton Row (including it), coming out at No. 54, Guilford Street; on the north by a line across the north side of Russell Square and along Keppel Street; on the west from thence by a diagonal line, which cuts off the south-east corner of Bedford Square to Dyott Street, and so to Broad Street.

HATTON GARDEN, SAFFRON HILL.

Bounded on the west by Leather Lane; on the south by Holborn and Charterhouse Street to Farringdon Road; on the east by Farringdon Road; and on the north by Back Hill.



INDEX

Abernethy, 78

Akenside, Dr., 93

Aldewych, 26

Alexandra Hospital, 83

Ancaster House, 34

Arundel, Bishop, 60

Babington, 33

Bacon, Francis, 6

Bacon, Roger, 75, 76

Bainbridge Street, 21

Bangor Court, 59

Barnard's Inn, 49

Baxter, Richard, 51, 93

Bedford Row, 78

Bedford Square, 97

Belayse, John, 16

Betterton, 25

Betterton Street, 24

Birkbeck Bank, 45

Black Bull, 70

Black Swan, 3

Bleeding Heart Yard, 67

Bloomsbury Market, 94

Bowl, The, 18

Bradshaw, 77

British Museum, 88

Broad Street, 18

Brooke Street, 70

Brownlow, Sir John, 24

Buckridge Street, 21

Burghley, Lord, 77

Burne-Jones, Sir E., 80, 97

Burton St. Lazar, 11

Caledonian School, 67

Camden, 77

Carew, Sir Wymonde, 13

Chancery Lane, 44

Chapman, George, 16

Charles Street, 67

Chatterton, Thomas, 57, 70

Church Street, 21

Churches: Christ Church, 24 City Temple, 54 St. Andrew's, 54 St. Ethelreda's Chapel, 64 St. George the Martyr, 83 St. George's, Bloomsbury, 94 St. Giles's, 8, 14 St. John the Evangelist's, 79 St. Peter's, 68 Moravian Chapel, 51 Trinity Church, 30

Cibber, Colley, 93

Clare House, 26

Clifford's Inn, 45

Coal Yard, 19, 25

Cope, Sir Walter, 14

Cobham, Lord, 19

Cock and Pye, The, 22

Cockpit, 25

Coke, Sir Edward, 62

College of Preceptors, 93

Craven House, 26

Croche Hose, 8

Cromwell, Oliver, 78

Cromwell, Richard, 43

Cromwell, Thomas, 76

Cross Street, 67

Cursitor Street, 45

De Luda, Bishop, 60

Denmark Street, 18

Dickens, Charles, 48

Digby, Sir Kenelm, 6

Disraeli, Benjamin, 81

D'Israeli, Isaac, 93

Donne, John, 40

Drury Lane, 25

Dudley, Duchess of, 14

Dyers' Buildings, 49

Dyott Street, 20

Earl Street, 24

Edward III., 11

Egerton, Lord Keeper, 43

Emery, 58

Endell Street, 24

Ely Place, 60

Eyre Street, 71

Fairfax, Sir Thomas, 27

Fetter Lane, 51

Fickett's Field, 31

Field Lane, 67

Fleur-de-Lys Court, 52

Florio, 58

Franklin, Benjamin, 29

Freemasons' Hall, 27

Furnival's Inn, 48

Furnival Street, 48

Gate Street, 30

George and Blue Boar, 3

Gerarde, 5

Gloucester Street, 81

Goldsmith Street, 25

Gordon Riots, 51, 93

Gray's Inn, 72

Gray, Thomas, 94

Great and Little Turnstile, 30

Great Coram Street, 98

Great Ormond Street, 84

Great Queen Street, 27

Great Russell Street, 97

Gresham, Sir T., 77

Greville, Fulke, 6

Guildford, Lord Keeper, 46

Gunpowder Alley, 58

Gwynne, Nell, 25, 26

Hale, Sir Matthew, 43

Hanway, Jonas, 79

Hare and Hounds, 9

Hatton Garden, 60, 66

Hatton, Sir Christopher, 61

Hatton Wall, 69

Hazlitt, 97

Henry II., 10

Henry VIII., 11

Herbert of Cherbury, Lord, 17, 27

Herring, Bishop, 40

High Street, 19

Hockley Hole, 71

Hogarth, 8

Hoggarty, Haggart, 20

Holborn, 3

Holborn Baths, 19

Holborn, Borough of, 1

Holborn Bridge, 5

Holborn Circus, 53

Holborn Hill, 4

Holborn Music Hall, 30

Holborn Restaurant, 30

Holborn Town Hall, 72

Holborn Viaduct, 54

Homoeopathic Hospital, 85

Hoole, 27

Hospital for Paralysis, 82

Hospital for Sick Children, 85

Hyde, Chief Justice, 46

Inns of Court Hotel, 33

Irving, Edward, 67

Italian Hospital, 83

Johnson, Dr., 6

Jonson, Ben, 42

Kemble, 97

Kemble Street, 29

Kingsgate Street, 80

Kingsway, 2, 29

Kirkby, Bishop, 60

Kirkby Street, 67

Kneller, Sir Godfrey, 27

Kniveton, Lady Frances, 16

Kynaston, 25

Lamb, Mary, 30

Lamb's Conduit Street, 86

Lawrence, Sir Thomas, 92

Leather Lane, 69

Le Lane, 21

Lenthall, 43

L'Estrange, Roger, 17

Lilly, 58

Lincoln, Earl of, 37

Lincoln's Inn, 36

Lincoln's Inn Fields, 31

Lindsey House, 34

Lisle, Viscount, 11

Little Queen Street, 29

Little Russell Street, 96

Long Fields, 90

Lord Chancellor's House, 98

Lovelace, 58

Lovell, Sir Thomas, 37

Lying-in Hospital, 24

Macaulay, Zachary, 86

Mackworth, Dr. John, 50

Manor House, 13, 18

Marsden, William, 56

Marshlands, 9, 22

Marvell, Andrew, 16, 17

Mathews, Charles, 97

Matilda, Queen, 10

Maurice, Rev. F. D., 85, 92

Mead, Dr., 84

Mercers' School, 49

Meux's Brewery, 97

Middle Row, 3, 49

Milton, 6, 79

Monmouth Street, 21

Montague House, 87

More, Sir Thomas, 6, 37, 43, 48

Morland, 71

Morris, William, 80

Mudie's Library, 96

Nelson, Robert, 81

Newcastle House, 34

New Compton Street, 21

New Oxford Street, 9, 96

Nisbett, Canon, 16

Nottingham, Earl of, 27

Novelty Theatre, 29

O'Connell, 58

Old Bell, 70

"Old Bourne" 2

Old Curiosity Shop, 35

Onslow, Speaker, 97

Opie, John, 27

Pendrell, Richard, 17

Pepys, 26

Pindar, Peter, 27

Portpool Lane, 70

Portsmouth House, 35

Powis, Duke of, 34

Powis House, 84

Pugin, 97

Queen Square, 81

Queen Street, 24

Raymond, Lord, 80

Red Lion Square, 78

Romilly, Sir S., 77, 92

Rose, The, 4

Rosebery Avenue, 71

Royal College of Surgeons, 35

Royal Mews, 87

Royal Society, 52

Russell Institution, 99

Russell, Lord, 32, 45

Russell Square, 91

Sacheverell, 6, 56

St. Andrew's Street, 24, 53

St. Giles's Burial-ground, 17

St Giles's Hospital, 10

St. Giles-in-the-Fields, Parish of, 6

St. James's Street, 77

Sardinia Street, 29

Savage, Robert, 57

Scrope's Inn, 59

Serjeants' Inn, 45

Seven Dials, 7, 23

Shaftesbury Avenue, 9, 21

Shakespeare, 77

Shelley, Percy, 97

Sheridan, 27

Shirley, 17

Shoe Lane, 58

Short's Gardens, 24

Sidmouth, Viscount, 78

Silver Street, 94

Sloane, Sir Hans, 93

Soane Museum, 34

Southampton Buildings, 46

Southampton House, 90

Southampton Row, 94

Southampton Street, 93

Staple Inn, 46, 47

Steele, Sir Richard, 93

Stiddolph Street, 21

Stillingfleet, Bishop of Worcester, 56

Stratford, Lord, 46

Strange, Sir Robert, 27

Stukeley, Dr., 83

Swan Distillery, 50

Swan on the Hop, 8

Thackeray, 99

Thanet House, 97

Thavie's Inn, 53

Theobald's Road, 81

Thomson, Bishop, 40

Thurlow, Lord, 85

Tonson, Jacob, 46, 77

Toten Hall, 97

Tottenham Court Road, 97

Turk's Head, The, 20

Turner, Sharon, 80

Tyburn procession, 8, 18

Vine Inn, 80

Walton, Izaak, 46

Warburton, Bishop, 78

Webster, John, 57

Wedderburn, Alexander, 92

Wesley, 51

Whetstone Park, 30

Whiston, 67

Whitefield, 51

White Hart, The, 8, 26

White Horse Inn, 50

White Lion Street, 24

Wild House, 29

Wild Street, Great, 29

Wilkes, 59

Woburn Square, 98

Wolsey, Cardinal, 37

Working Men's College, 85

Worlidge, Thomas, 27

Wren, Sir Christopher, 97

Wriothesley, 57

Zinzendorf, Count, 52

THE END

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BILLING AND SONS, LTD., PRINTERS, GUILDFORD

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Transcriber's Notes

The following errors in the original text have been corrected:

Page 89: In then became changed to It then became

Page 103: Bambridge Street, 21 changed to Bainbridge Street, 21