BARNET, HIGH (formerly "Chipping Barnet" from the market granted by Henry II. to the Abbots of St. Albans, which was held every Monday), stands on the hill-top about 11 miles N.W. from London, and 9 miles S.E. from St. Albans. As stated above, the manor belonged to the Abbots of St. Albans, and Chauncy tells a story in this connection which is worth repeating: "Anno 18, Edw. I., the Abbot of St. Albans (Roger de Norton, 24th Abbot) impleaded several Persons for prostrating his Ditch and burning his Hedges and Fences in the Night at Bernet; Richard Tykering, one of the Defendants, said, that because the Abbot enclosed his Pasture with Hedge and Ditch, so that he and the Tenants there, could not have their common, as their Ancestors were wont to have, they did lay open the same. The Abbot answered that they ought not to have Common there; but 'twas found by the Jury that the Tenants ought to have Common; and Judgment was given against the said Richard Tickering only for that he burnt the Hedge." Other squabbles between abbot and peasant are referred to in this book, in the section on St. Albans. The Parish Church of St. John the Baptist stands at the junction of the roads from London, Enfield and St. Albans. It has known many changes. A church stood upon the spot so long ago as circa 1250, to which a detached tower was added about a century later. The body of this structure was almost wholly replaced by a new building, reaching to and including the tower, near the end of the abbacy of John de la Moote (1396-1401). The present church is the result of the restoration and enlargement under the direction of Mr. W. Butterfield, in 1875; it is of flint and worked stone, partly Dec. and partly Perp. The old tower was lowered sufficiently to form a portion of the nave and a new embattled tower was built, now a conspicuous landmark for many miles round. The present N. aisle is entirely new. The nave is clerestoried, with eight bays; most of the windows are of stained glass. The Ravenscroft mortuary chapel, adjoining the S. transept, contains many monuments, the most conspicuous being the altar-tomb and recumbent effigy in marble to Thomas Ravenscroft (d. 1630), which was formerly in the chancel. Other memorials are to James Ravenscroft (d. 1680) who founded and endowed the almshouses in Wood Street near by, called Jesus' Hospital, and to John Ravenscroft (d. 1681). Note (1) the beautifully carved font screen, pinnacled and crocketted; (2) the pulpit, adorned with carved figures of men famous in English Church history; (3) the four ancient ledgers of stone, two in the chapel and two in the tower-basement, all inscribed to members of the Ravenscroft family. The church was formerly a chapel-of-ease to that at East Barnet. A Roman Catholic church, dedicated to SS. Mary the Immaculate and Gregory the Great, stands in Union Street: it was built in 1850.

On Barnet Common there was formerly a medicinal spring known widely as "Barnet Wells"; its chalybeate waters are referred to in Pepys' Diary, and more fully praised in The Perfect Diurnall (1652) and The Barnet Well Water (1800). These waters were in such repute that one John Owen, an alderman of London, provided L1 to be spent yearly in keeping the well in fit condition. Barnet Fair, which is held annually early in September, is attended by cattle dealers from all parts of England and Scotland, and by showmen and adventurers of all kinds. It is certainly one of the most famous horse fairs in the country. The ordinary cattle market is held each Wednesday.

BATTLE OF BARNET.—Of this engagement, so familiar by name, very little is known accurately. Early in the spring of 1471, Edward IV., assisted in his schemes by the Duke of Burgundy, quitted Flanders, whither he had fled when the Earl of Warwick landed in the S. of England with reinforcements from Louis XI.; touched, after a difficult passage, at Cromer, where he heard of the resistance organised by Warwick, and finally landed at Ravenspurgh on the Humber. Having been joined by further followers at Nottingham he entered London on Holy Thursday, the Lancastrians offering little resistance. Warwick collected his forces, and the two armies met on Easter Sunday on Gladmore Common or Gledsmuir Heath, to the N.W. of what is now Hadley Wood. The engagement was desperately contested for five or six hours, with such varying success that some accounts relate how messengers rode to London during the day with the news that Edward was losing the battle. This, as it proved, was not the case. Chauncy repeats the old tradition that a fog gathered over the battle-field, that the Lancastrians slew one another in the mist and confusion, and that this led to the death of Warwick. It is supposed that the "King Maker" fell close to the spot now marked by Hadley High Stone. This obelisk was erected a little distance off in 1740; but was removed nearer to what is now thought the right position. Montacute, brother to Warwick, was slain at the same spot.

BARNET, NEW, is a residential extension of High and East Barnet, being situated between the two. Indeed, the whole of "Barnet" is now almost merged into one; there being houses or shops almost from Hadley High Stone to a little S. from Cat Hill. The Station Road is a wide pleasant thoroughfare stretching from New Barnet Station, G.N.R., to the main road from London to High Barnet. The whole district is excellent ground for the student of modern domestic architecture, the examples of diverse schools and styles being endless. The stretch of valley between the railway and High Barnet, now largely built upon, is a new civil parish called Barnet Vale. On a gentle slope in the centre, off Potter's Road, stands the new Church of St. Mark, in which services have been held for twenty-four years, but which is still incomplete. Lyonsdown, an ecclesiastical district founded in 1869, is scattered over high ground S.W. from the station; it is almost wholly comprised of detached residences and is considered exceedingly healthy. There is here a good view, overlooking the stretch of hill and dale towards Cockfosters, New Southgate, and the Alexandra Palace. The Church of the Holy Trinity, erected in 1864, is Dec. and contains fine lancet windows to W. C. M. Plowden, killed in Abyssinia. There are N. and S. porches, good of their kind, and the apsidal chancel is well designed.

Barwick Ford is on the river Rib, about 21/2 miles N.W. from Hadham and 3 miles S.W. from Standon Stations, G.E.R.

Bassett's Green (1 mile S.E. from Walkern Church) is a small hamlet between Walkern Hall and Walkern Bury. There is no railway station nearer than 5 miles, Buntingford, G.E.R., and Stevenage, G.N.R., being each about that distance.

Batchworth is a hamlet close to Rickmansworth Station, L.&N.W.R., at the N.W. extremity of Moor Park (q.v.).

Batchworth Heath, 11/2 mile S.E. from Rickmansworth, is on the Middlesex border.

Batlers Green (3/4 mile from Radlett Church, and 1 mile S.W. from the station, M.R.) is in a pretty district, but contains little more than a few scattered cottages and farms.

BAYFORD (3 miles S.W. from Hertford) is a parish and village on rising ground, near the river Lea. It has a cruciform church, E.E. in design, with facings of Kentish rag-stone, erected by W. R. Baker, Esq., in 1870-1. In the chancel are seven fine lancet windows of stained glass. Note also (1) altar tomb and marble effigy to Sir George Knighton (d. 1612); (2) two palimpsest brasses, one bearing a figure in half-armour and the other a figure in plate-armour and ring-mail skirt, of which the age is conjectural; (3) the fine lich-gate. In the churchyard lies William Yarrell, the great ornithologist (d. at Yarmouth, 1856).

BAYFORDBURY stands in a beautiful park, famous for its fine cedars and pines, a little N. from the village. It is the seat of the lord of the manor, H. W. Clinton-Baker, Esq., J.P. The house was originally erected by an ancestor of the present owner, about 1760. Here are the portraits of most of the members of the Kit Cat Club, painted by Sir Godfrey Kneller; the MS. of the first book of Paradise Lost, and a collection of letters of great literary interest, were recently sold to America.

Bedmond, or Bedmont, together with Sheppeys, forms a large hamlet 1 mile N. from the village of Abbots Langley, and nearly 2 miles N.E. from King's Langley Station, L.&N.W.R.

Bedwell Plash is a hamlet 1 mile S.E. from Stevenage.

Beeson's End is pleasantly situated near the S. extremity of Harpenden Common, and about 13/4 mile nearly due E. from Redbourn Station, M.R.

Bell Bar, a hamlet in the parish of North Mimms, is near Brookman's Park, and about 21/2 miles N. from Potter's Bar Station, G.N.R. (Middlesex).

Bendish lies on high ground, 21/2 miles S.W. from St. Paul's Walden (q.v.). The nearest station is at Luton Hoo (Beds) about 4 miles S.W.

BENGEO (3/4 mile N. from Hertford) is a village between the rivers Beane and Rib; Ware Park is close by (N.E.). It is now in the borough of Hertford. The old church dedicated to St. Leonard, is Early Norman; there are very few churches of older foundation in Hertfordshire. It was restored at several times between 1884 and 1893. The bell in the wooden cote bears date 1636; a small Norman arch divides the nave from the chancel; there are lancets and a Perp. window in the apse. The monuments are mostly to local gentry. Eric, seventh Baron Reay, is buried in the tiny churchyard. The new church, erected on the hillside in 1855, is of Kentish rag. There are terra-cotta panels by Tinworth in the reredos. The walk from Bengeo to Hertford, past the sandy warren-hills, so beautifully clad with fir, larch, etc., with the Lea winding through the low meadows on the left, is one of the finest in the county.

BENGEO (Rural) was formerly a part of the same parish as the above. Near by, at Chapmore End, is the Hertford County Reformatory for boys.

Bennett's End is the name of two small hamlets, one near Leverstock Green (q.v.) and the other near Hemel Hempstead (q.v.).

BENNINGTON (41/2 miles N.E. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R.) was once the residence of Mercian kings. The village and neighbourhood are picturesque; the roads from Walkern, Hertford and Knebworth meet where a tiny triangular green is shaded by fine elms. The river Beane is 1 mile to the W. The church is at the S. end of the village; it dates from the fourteenth century. The nave is wide, with clerestory; the narrow chancel has a chapel on the N. side. The tower is embattled, and contains a ring of eight bells. There are triple sedilia, and stalls of carved oak in the chancel; what was once a holy water basin is in the porch. Note also (1) the oaken rood-screen, surmounted by a large cross; (2) the memorial to the Caesar family (1622-61); (3) the (supposed) tomb of Sir John de Benstede (1432), a baron who sat in Parliament in the time of Edward II., as we learn from Dugdale's Monasticon; (4) Carved oak reredos. Near the churchyard a large house of red brick stands on the site of the castle of the Benstedes, in ruins when Chauncy wrote two centuries back. Bertulf, King of the Mercians, held a council here in 850. Bennington Park (11/4 mile E.) is one of three deer parks in Hertfordshire which figured in Domesday Book.

BERKHAMPSTEAD (Great) an interesting town in the W. of the county, is situated on the little river Bulbourne, and is chiefly famous as the birthplace of William Cowper, who was born in the rectory on 26th November, 1731. The Grammar School was founded by Dr. John Incent in 1541. The castle, of which there are still ruins close to the L.&N.W.R., dates from before the Domesday Survey. Visitors must not expect to find a castle here such as those at Carisbroke or Lewes. The ruins, although of considerable extent, are fragmentary, and little more than the plan of this stronghold can now be traced. The moats are double to the N.W., but triple elsewhere. Henry II. held a court here; and the castle was at times the residence of many monarchs, particularly Edward III. The Black Prince was a visitor here during his father's reign. The Church of St. Peter, on the N. side of the High Street, is by local authorities claimed to be larger than any parish church in the county, saving only St. Albans Abbey; but this distinction is also claimed for St. Mary's, Hitchin. The original structure was of great antiquity, dating from pre-Norman times; but it was wholly rebuilt early in the reign of Henry III. There are chantry chapels on either side of each transept; that called "St. John's Chantry" dates from about 1350. Among many other features of interest note (1) fine groined roof of northern chantries; (2) lancet windows in the chancel, containing fourteenth century glass; (3) the E. window, a memorial to the poet Cowper; (4) tablet to Ann Cowper, the poet's mother; (5) brass to John Raven, Esquire to the Black Prince; (6) altar tomb to John Sayer, head cook to Charles II.; (7) mosaic reredos; (8) altar tomb and effigies of Richard Torrington (d. 1356) and Margaret his wife, in N. transept. During the restoration of this transept in 1881 a portion of an ancient arch was discovered.



The Grand Junction Canal is close to the river Bulbourne, and partly for this reason many small industries are pursued in the town, such as the making of straw plait, scoops and shovels of various sorts, army tent-pegs, etc. The present rectory is on a small hill near the church, to the S. of the High Street; it stands on the site of the former house, in which Cowper was born, and the old well-house, called "Cowper's Well," may still be seen. There is a good library in the Mechanics' Institute. The almshouses, for six widows, were founded in 1681, by the John Sayer mentioned above. The Kings of Mercia are known to have resided and held courts here; King Whithred summoned a council to meet at Berghamstedt in 697.

BERKHAMPSTEAD, LITTLE (3 miles S. from Cole Green Station, G.N.R.), has a stone church erected early in the seventeenth century. It has a wooden belfry and spire. The building was restored in 1856-7, but contains little of architectural or historical interest. There are, however, several memorials, notably the altar table in memory of Bishop Ken, born in the parish in 1637. On a hill N.E. from the church stands the tall red-brick observatory erected by John Stratton in 1789, in order, as it is said, that from its summit he might watch his ships in the Thames. The tower has been called "Stratton's Folly".

Bernard's Heath. (See St. Albans.)

Betlow is a lordship of Long Marston (q.v.)



BISHOP'S STORTFORD is in the extreme E. of the county and on the Essex border. It is an ancient town, deriving its name from the ford over the river Stort, and from the fact that William I. gave the town to Maurice, Bishop of London. It is famous for its Grammar School, at which the late Cecil Rhodes, a native of the town, was educated. The site of Waytemore Castle, built by William I., is on a mound near the road to Hockeril, where a low, wide flint wall is partly surrounded by a moat. The church of St. Michael on Windhill is Perp.; it was restored in 1859. There was a former church on the same site; the present structure dates from say 1420-40. The nave has six bays; the tower is pinnacled and has a ring of ten fine bells. Chauncy's book has an interesting paragraph about this church. "Three Gylds and a Chantry were founded in this church; the Gyld of St. Mary; the Gyld of St. Michael; and the Gyld of St. John Baptist; to which, An. 1476, Elizabeth Spycere gave Legacies, viz., to the two former 13s. 4d. a piece, to the last 40s. These Saints had their altars, and St. Michael his Tabernacle, on which much Cost had been bestowed; but the Chantry was founded in the time of Richard III. and the Settlement thereof cost much Money." Chancel and nave are separated by a screen of carved oak; the font (Norman) was discovered during the restoration of the church; there is a piscina in the S. aisle. The clerestory was added and the chancel restored in 1884; on the chancel floor is a brass to Lady Margaret Denny (d. 1648), "a maid of honour in ordinary for five years to Queen Elizabeth of blessed memory". There is also a memorial to Sir George Duckett, Bart. (d. 1822), who increased the facilities for the navigation of the Stort, which is now navigable by barges to the town. A cattle sale is held every Thursday, which is market-day. The trade in malt is still very large. We read that in old times a cross was erected on each of the four roads leading from the town. The main thoroughfares are still in the form of a cross; going down Windhill the visitor will find a bridge over the Stort before him, and a main street on either side. The town can boast several of the finest old inns in Herts.

BOREHAM WOOD (11/4 mile N.E. from Elstree) is a large and rather prettily situated hamlet.

Bourne End, 1 mile W. from Boxmoor Station, L.&N.W.R., contains little more than an inn, a coffee-room, and a few cottages standing beside the Grand Junction Canal.

BOVINGDON (21/2 miles S.W. from Boxmoor Station) is a large village, built on the slopes of two hills, the centre of the village being in the depression between them. The church dates from the end of the eleventh century, but was rebuilt in 1846 in a Gothic style, with pinnacled W. tower. Note (1) the effigy of an armoured knight under the tower, dating from perhaps the middle of the fourteenth century; (2) brasses to the Mayne family (1621-42). Some traces of a Roman encampment and villa are shown on inquiry at a spot near the village.

Bowman's Green (1/4 mile N.E. from London Colney and 2 miles S. from Smallford Station, G.N.R.) is a tiny hamlet near the river Colne and the high road from Barnet to St. Albans.

BOXMOOR is a village about 11/2 mile S.W. from Hemel Hempstead. The Grand Junction Canal flows between the village and the town. From the station, L.&N.W.R., a motor car plies to and from Hemel Hempstead. Many Roman remains have been found in the neighbourhood, particularly some remains of two Roman villas, and many coins of the period of Diocletian. The church, erected in 1874, is E.E. in design, and was planned by Mr. Norman Shaw. It has N. and S. aisles and porches. There was an earlier structure on the same site. Private residences are increasing so rapidly that the place is now almost a suburb of Hemel Hempstead.

Boydon's Hill adjoins the village of Aldenham.

Bragbury End (11/4 mile E. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R.) is a hamlet on the Great North Road.

BRAMFIELD OR BRAINTFIELD (31/2 miles N.W. from Hertford Station, G.N.R.) is a parish and village. The church is E.E., standing on the site of an earlier edifice; the present tower and spire were built in 1840, and the church itself restored in 1870. We learn from Matthew of Westminster that Thomas Becket held the living here as his first charge; a pond near the church is called "Becket's Pond". Queen Hoo Hall, N.W. from the village, is now a farmhouse, but was formerly an Elizabethan residence, and gave the title to a romance partly written by Sir Walter Scott. The neighbourhood is pleasant, and a pretty stroll may be taken either N.E. to Woodhall Park or S. to Panshanger Park.

Brandley Hill is 1 mile N.W. from Aston.

BRAUGHING has a station 3/4 mile S.W. from the town, on the Buntingford Branch of G.E.R. It is an ancient parish, the "Brachinges" of Domesday Book, and was a Roman station. The church and few streets of which the village consists are very picturesquely scattered on the S.W. slope of a hill overlooking the river Quin, at the intersection of the Roman Ermine Street and the road from Bishop's Stortford to Baldock. There was formerly a market each week, dating from the reign of Stephen; also an annual fair, abolished many years ago. The church, close to the hand-bridge over the river, is largely Perp., and contains a few brasses, none of which are important. It has been partially restored on several occasions during the last eighty years, and some of the modern workmanship is very good. Note (1) open tracery in carved oak screen; (2) oak pulpit; (3) finely carved font of Caen stone; (4) old font outside, near the tower. At Cockhampstead (11/2 mile E. from the church) was once an Augustinian priory.

Breachwood Green (about 31/2 miles N.E. from Luton Hoo Station, G.N.R., and 1 mile S. from King's Walden Church) is a village on high ground rather more than a mile from the Bedfordshire border. Pretty walks may be taken S.E. to Bendish or S.W. to Chiltern Green.

BRENT PELHAM (1 mile from Essex border and 5 miles E. from Buntingford) is an interesting village, formerly called Burnt Pelham because, as tradition states, both village and church were destroyed by fire during the reign of Henry I. Traces of the fire existed in the days of Norden (circa 1548-1626). The church—near which the old stocks may still be seen—is E.E., with the embattled western tower so frequent in Herts. It is locally famous for a tomb in the N. wall, said to mark the resting-place of one Piers Shonkes, a serpent slayer who lived in the time of William I. The tomb bears some allegorical figures, which have been the subject of diverse interpretations. Pelham Hall (E. E. Barclay, Esq.), "a slight but well contrived House in this Mannor, near the Church," was built in 1620 by one Edward Newport. It was once owned by the Floyers or Flyers, a family to whose memory there are several memorials in the church.

Brickendon is now partly included in the borough of Hertford. There are some imposing residences in the neighbourhood.

BRICKET WOOD is almost exactly midway between St. Albans and Watford; it consists of some cottages scattered around an extensive wood and common, crossed by L.&N.W.R. The station is 1/2 mile from the "wood," which is much frequented by picnic parties, school treats, etc. The district is good ground for the field botanist and entomologist.

Broadfield (21/4 miles N.W. from Buntingford) is a hamlet near Cottered, on the hill N. from that village. The hall was once a much larger structure (engraved in Chauncy, vol. i.); it was in part rebuilt in 1882, but still retains a portion believed to date from the fifteenth century.

Broadwater is a hamlet at the meeting of the roads from Stevenage, Hatfield and Hertford. The nearest station is Knebworth (11/4 mile S.).

Broadway (11/2 mile S.E. from Berkhampstead) has a Dec. chapel-of-ease to the parish church. It was erected in 1854. A short walk takes one to the ruined chapel of St. Mary Magdalen on the Bucks border.

Bromley (11/2 mile S.E. from Standon Station, G.E.R.) is a small hamlet.

Broomin Green (3/4 mile S.W. from Stevenage Station, G.N.R.) is a hamlet near the railway and 1/2 mile from the Six Hills. (See Stevenage.)



BROXBOURNE, a large village near the river Lea and New River, is a favourite fishing resort. The church stands on high ground overlooking the mill-leat; it is a fine Perp. structure, dating from early in the fifteenth century. The N. chancel-chapel was built by Sir William Say, "in honor a ye Trenete the yere of our Lord God 1522"; his tomb is in the chancel. The church was restored in 1857; the roof is of fine oak panelling; the font, on eight pillars, is probably Early Norman. There are brasses to a priest holding a chalice (circa 1470); to another priest in robes (circa 1510); to Sir John Borrell, mace bearer to Henry VIII. (d. 1521); to Sir John Say (d. 1478), and his wife (d. 1473). Note also (1) holy water basin near door; (2) marble effigies of Sir Henry Cock (d. 1609), and his wife and family; (3) shield of arms in centre of nave, with verses in English, bearing date 1630. From the church a very picturesque walk may be taken through the village, to Hoddesdon, by way of "Admiral's Walk," or beside the Lea past the grounds of the Crown Hotel. Broxbournebury (Major G. R. B. Smith-Bosanquet, J.P.) is in the beautiful park, 1 mile W., and is a large imposing mansion in Jacobean style. In Church Fields and on the London Road are large rose-nurseries, producing an immense number of roses yearly. The neighbourhood is one of the most pleasant in the county.

BUCKLAND (3 miles N. from Buntingford, on the Royston Road) has an E.E. church, built by Nicholas de Bokeland in 1348. The piscina at the E. end of the S. aisle marks the site of what was formerly the lady-chapel. The font is very possibly anterior to the Conquest; it is a roughly hewn mass of Barnack stone. The low window in the S. wall of the chancel was opened out during some renovations, and is thought to have been connected with a confessional, as a coloured figure of the Virgin was discovered on the wall. The theory, however, may be dismissed as purely mythical. There is a brass to William Langley, a rector of the church (d. 1478); a low-relief medallion by Chantrey to William Anthony (d. 1819), and a brass to one of the Boteler family (1451). The interior was restored in 1875; the new W. door, of oak, was added in 1881.

Buck's Hill (2 miles S.W. from King's Langley Station, L.&N.W.R.) is a pretty hamlet. The nearest parish church is about 11/4 mile N.E. at Chipperfield (q.v.).

BULBOURNE, river. (See Introduction.)

Bull's Green is 21/4 miles N.E. from Welwyn Station, G.N.R.

Bull's Mill is 21/2 miles N. from Hertford.

BUNTINGFORD, a small town on the river Rib, on the Royston-Cambridge Road, consists chiefly of the long High Street and of a few small by-ways, E. by the river side, and W. on the roads to Aspenden and Cottered. Standing across the High Street is the cruciform church of St. Peter, built in 1614-26 as a chapel-of-ease to Layston (q.v.). An old brass tablet still preserved represents the holding of a Divine service in the church before completion. There is also a portrait of Seth Ward (see Aspenden); the almshouses a few yards W. were founded by him in 1684. "This town," wrote Chauncy, "is of small antiquity, for there is no mention of it in Domesdei Book, neither can I find anything of it before Anno. 21. Edwd. III., when that King did grant one Market every Week, and one Fair every Year in Buntingford, to Elizabeth de Burgo and her Heirs, reserving the Yearly Rent of 6d." At the N. end of High Street is the old pound. Corney Bury (1/2 mile N.) is a fine old manor house. Little of historic importance is to be gleaned in the town, but a ramble from end to end is interesting by reason of the many quaint inns and cottages, of all ages and styles, which meet the eye at every turn.

Burnham Green is a hamlet 11/4 mile N.E. from Welwyn Station, G.N.R.

Bury Green (11/2 mile W. from Cheshunt Station, G.E.R.) is a small hamlet near Theobald's Park; also

Bury Green, a hamlet 21/2 miles W. from Bishop's Stortford.

Bury Hill and Bury Mill. (See Hemel Hempstead.)

Bury Stede. (See Hexton.)

Bush Barrow is 11/4 mile N. from Wallington, on Metley Hill, midway between the village and the Icknield Way.

BUSHEY is a large village, now practically the S.E. suburb of Watford. The station (L.&N.W.R.) is in the hollow between the village itself and High Street, Watford; cyclists must be careful of the descent towards that town. Near the centre of the village is a small green and pond, and here stands the partly Dec. church of St. James, rebuilt in 1871 by Sir Gilbert Scott. The E.E. window, triple lancet, is to the memory of Edwards Marjoribanks of the Hall (d. 1879) and his wife. Silas Titus, whose name is remembered for his supposed authorship of the notorious pamphlet Killing noe Murder, was born at Bushey and buried in this church; there is a headstone to his daughter in the graveyard.

BUSHEY HEATH (1 mile S.E. from the above) is on the Middlesex border. It is now an ecclesiastical district, formed in 1889; the church, an E.E. brick structure, dates from 1838; the porches were added in 1882. The district is very healthy.

Bushey, Little, is E. from Bushey Heath, which it almost joins.

Bushey Mill is on the river Colne, 3/4 mile N.E. from Watford Junction.

Butchery Green. (See Hertford.)

BYGRAVE (13/4 mile N.E. from Baldock Station, G.N.R.) has a small church built of clunch from the Ashwell pits near by. It dates from perhaps 1320. Note (1) octagonal font (about 1420-40), (2) slab on floor to a former rector, a Huguenot (d. 1725), and (3) the piscina in chancel. Close by, at the Manor House, are the remains of some moats constructed five centuries ago by the resident knight, Sir John Thornbury, because of the many marauders that infested the neighbourhood. The place was once a market-town; the market, granted by Henry III., was held each Monday. The village lies on high ground, a few minutes' walk N. from the Icknield Way.

CALDECOTE (about 3 miles N.N.E. from Baldock Station, G.N.R.) has a Perp. church of rubble, containing a few memorials, a very finely canopied holy water basin, and a font dating from, say, 1480.

Caldicot Hill is 1 mile E. from Bushey Heath, on the Middlesex border.

CASSIOBURY PARK. (See Watford.)

Catlip is a hamlet near Chorley Wood Station, Met.R.

Chandler's Cross (21/2 miles S.W. from King's Langley Station, L.&N.W.R.) is a small hamlet.

Chapmore End is 21/2 miles N. from Hertford.

Chelsing is near the river Rib, 3 miles N. from Ware.

Cherry Green (1 mile S.W. from West Mill Station, G.E.R.) is a small hamlet.

CHESHUNT, according to Grose's Antiquities, the Durolitum of Antoninus, is a large parish which contains much of interest. Its ancient names, Cestre, Ceaster, Cestrehunt, leave little doubt that it was a Roman station.[3] At Roman Urn Inn, near the station, G.E.R., is an urn imbedded in the wall; it was discovered close by some years ago, and is probably of Roman manufacture. Cheston, yet another old name of this spot, has been thought to be derived from the chestnut trees once plentiful in the neighbourhood, of which many of the houses were built. William I. gave the manor to Alan the Red, Earl of Brittany, and it remained an appendage to that earldom for a long time. Edward III. granted a weekly market to be held in the town every Monday. The Church of St. Mary the Virgin was built in 1420 by Nicholas Dixon, who held the living of Cheshunt for thirty years. It is Perp., entirely embattled; the W. tower has an octagonal cupola. Restoration was carefully effected during 1872-4, under Mr. G. F. Bodley. The rood-screen, lectern and pulpit are of carved oak, all comparatively new. The memorials are very numerous; amongst them may be noted (1) brass on chancel floor to the above-mentioned Nicholas Dixon (d. 1448); (2) brass to William Pyke (d. 1449); (3) two female effigies, 1500-20; (4) altar tomb in chancel to Robert Dacres, Privy Councillor to Henry VIII. There are windows of stained glass to a former vicar (d. 1858); to General Miles (d. 1860), and, in the tower, to one Robert Archer, for thirty-six years parish clerk. N. from the main street, near the river Lea, stood a small Benedictine nunnery. It originally belonged to the Canons of Cathele, but Henry III. turned them out and gave the property and rights to the "Prioress and Nuns of Cesthont". The college, a famous institution, stands near the church; it was founded in 1768 by Selina, Countess of Huntingdon, at Trevecca, near Talgarth, S. Wales, and removed to Cheshunt after her death. A few years ago it was bought by the Church of England, for use as a theological college. Close by, too, is the site of Pengelly House, once the home of Richard Cromwell. Cheshunt Park (1 mile N.) is full of memories of the Cromwells and the Russells. The Great House, near Church Gate, was one of the many residences of Cardinal Wolsey. Both the house and the moat are still preserved.

[Footnote 3: Chauncy writes: "This Vill in old Records was called Cestrehunt, from Castrum in the Latin, which might, in all Probability, import some castle erected here by the Romans; and the Saxons imitating the name, though corruptly ... might from hence call it Cestrehunt".]

CHESS, river. (See Introduction.)

Cheverell's Green (11/2 mile N.W. from Flamstead, and about 4 miles N.W. from Redbourn Station, M.R.) is a small hamlet and green adjoining Beechwood Park.

Childwick Green is 1 mile S. from Harpenden Common, and 21/2 miles N. from St. Albans.

CHIPPERFIELD (21/2 miles W. from King's Langley Station, L.&N.W.R.) was made an ecclesiastical parish in 1863. The small church on the common, E.E. in style, built in 1837, is of little interest. There is a good lich-gate at the N. entrance to the churchyard. The neighbourhood is pleasant and varied.

Chipping (2 miles N. from Buntingford) is a small village on the Royston Road.

Chivesfield (or Chesfield) is 2 miles N.E. from Stevenage Station, G.N.R. It is locally famous for its ruined church. One John Wykins was rector here as early as 1323. The windows were partly destroyed in 1642. Some interesting memorials were extant in Chauncy's day, and are mentioned in the second volume of his Antiquities.



CHORLEY WOOD, a village 21/2 miles N.W. from Rickmansworth, has a station on the Met.R. near the Amersham Road. The church, E.E. in style, dates from 1845, but was largely rebuilt in 1870. William Penn, the Quaker, was married here. There are many pretty walks through the Valley of the Chess, which flows between the village and Sarratt (q.v.).

Church End is a small hamlet in the parish of Albury, 3 miles E. from Braughing Station, G.E.R.

Clapgate, a hamlet on the river Ash, is close to Church End.

Clay End (11/2 mile S.E. from Walkern) is about equidistant—5 miles—from Stevenage or Westmill Stations.

Clay Hill is on the high road between Bushey and Bushey Heath (q.v.).

CLOTHALL (21/4 miles S.E. from Baldock) has an interesting church, chiefly Perp., on a gentle hill. There is a good brass in the chancel to John Vynter, first rector of the church (d. 1404), and one to John Wright, Master of Trinity College, Cambridge, also rector here (d. 1519). On the S. of the church is a small Dec. chantry chapel. Note also a sixteenth century brass to the wife and sixteen children of William Bramfield of Clothall. The Saxons are said to have called the spot Cley Hall, because it stood on a hill of clay. Clothall Bury is a little to the E.

Cockernhoe Green is 21/2 miles S.W. from Offley, and 21/2 miles N.E. from Luton Station (Beds).

Cockhampstead (2 miles N.E. from Braughing Station, G.E.R.) is near Albury Hall.

CODICOTE (3 miles N.W. from Welwyn Station, G.N.R.) is a large village on the Welwyn-Hitchin Road, with a pleasant heath a little W. The Church of St. Giles is an ancient structure, E.E., restored in 1853; it stands in a field 1/2 mile N. from the village. The S. chapel dates from 1312. The embattled W. tower is a fine structure. There are several memorial windows, comparatively modern.

COLE GREEN has a station on the G.N.R. branch line from Hatfield to Hertford. From the station little is to be seen except the Cowper's Arms and a few cottages.

Coleman's Green (11/2 mile S.E. from Wheathampstead Station, G.N.R.) is prettily situated near the "Devil's Dyke" and Brocket Hall. John Bunyan sometimes preached in a cottage here; a large chimney-stack, bearing an inscription, still marks the spot, unless quite recently removed.

Collier's End is on high ground, on the Old North Road, 2 miles S.W. from Standon Station, G.E.R. It is a very typical English hamlet.

COLNE, river. (See Introduction.)

COLNEY HEATH (1 mile S. from Smallford Station, G.N.R.) is an ecclesiastical parish. The brick church (1844) is in Byzantine style; it has an apsidal chancel, and small N. porch and tower. The new West Herts County Asylum is close by.

COLNEY STREET, on the main road from Radlett to St. Albans, forms an almost equilateral triangle with Park Street and Bricket Wood Stations, L.&N.W.R. It is only a few minutes' walk from the pretty church at Frogmore (q.v.).

Common Moor may be visited from Croxley Green (3/4 mile N.E. from Rickmansworth) for an inspection of its large paper mill.

Cooter's End is a tiny hamlet close to the M.R. on the Bedfordshire border.

Corey's Mill, a hamlet 1 mile N. from Stevenage Station, G.N.R., is named from an old mill, burnt in 1878.

COTTERED (3 miles W. from Buntingford) has a fine old church (Perp.). There is a chapel on the N. side of the chancel erected by Edward Pulter; the W. tower is embattled and carries a lofty spire. Several memorials to the Pulter and Forester families are of the seventeenth century. The church was restored in 1886. In the days of William I. the vill of Chodrei belonged to Walchelin, Bishop of Winchester. Cottered Lordship, a farmhouse near the village, is one of the very oldest dwellings in the county. The writer is assured by an expert that the front door dates from 1450-80!

Cromer, a hamlet 5 miles S.W. from Buntingford, is prettily situated in a valley, in a purely agricultural district.

Cromer Hyde (11/2 mile S. from Ayot Station, G.N.R.) consists of a farmhouse, the Chequer's Inn, and a few old and picturesque cottages. The nearest church is 1/2 mile S.E. at the corner of Brocket Hall Park.

Croxley Green (3/4 mile N.E. from Rickmansworth) is an ecclesiastical parish near the river Chess. The church, built fifty years ago, is late E.E. in style and has some good memorial windows.

Cuffley is a small hamlet about midway between Cheshunt and Potter's Bar (Middlesex) Stations, but a little N. from the straight line. The Church of St. James at Goff's Oak (q.v.) is 1 mile E.

Cumberlow Green is 4 miles N.W. from Buntingford.

Currants Bottom, on the Bucks border, is close to Chorley Wood Station, Met.R.

Dane End, or Munden Street, is 4 miles S.W. from Standon Station, G.E.R. The nearest church (1/2 mile N.) is at Little Munden.

Dane End, 4 miles S. from Royston, is close to the Old North Road. There are a few cottages and two farms.

Dassells is a hamlet on the Old North Road, 1 mile E. from Westmill Station, G.E.R. The little river Quin flows close by.

DATCHWORTH (11/2 mile S.E. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R.) has a church with some Norman portions. Its spire is conspicuous for miles round. The larger portion is, however, Dec. Note (1) some good stained glass windows in chancel; (2) chalice dated 1630. The church was restored in 1869-70. The place is very ancient; we read that four hides of land at Decewyrth were granted by an early Saxon king to the Monastery of St. Peter at Westminster, and that in the reign of Edward III. Thomas de la Mere, Abbot of St. Albans, transferred the patronage of this church to the king.

Dean End (3/4 mile S. from Redbourn Station, M.R.) is a small hamlet.

Delamore End is 1/2 mile E. from Flamstead, and near the high road to Dunstable. The nearest railway station is Redbourn, 21/2 miles S.E.

Digswell, a village on the river Maran, is 1/2 mile S.W. from Welwyn Station, G.N.R. Looking E. the visitor will notice the Great Northern Viaduct over the Maran Valley—a truly magnificent structure of forty arches. The church, beautifully situated on the hill, is[h] E.E. It contains a large but much mutilated brass to John Perient, Master of the Horse to Joan of Navarre and Esquire to Richard II., Henry IV. and Henry V. This interesting inscription being much defaced I will transcribe from Chauncy: "Hic jacet Johannes Perient, Armiger pro corpore Regis Richardi Secundi, et Penerarius ejusdem Regis, et Armiger. Regis Henrici Quarti, et Armiger etiam Regis Henrici Quinti et Magister Equitum Johannae, filiae Regis Navarr, et Regiae Angliae qui obiit—et Johanna uxor ejus quondam capitalis Domicilla—quae obiit 24 Aprilis Anno Dom. 1415." Note also brasses (1) to John Perient, son of the above (d. 1442); (2) William Robert, auditor of the diocese of Winchester (d. 1484); (3) to a civilian, his wife, and ten children (circa 1530); (4) to Thomas Hoore, a mercer of London, his wife, and twelve children. The church was restored in 1872.

Digswell Water is a hamlet 1/2 mile E. from Digswell Church, and close to Welwyn Station.

Down Green is 1/2 mile W. from Wheathampstead Station, G.N.R.

Driver's End, a hamlet 2 miles W. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R., is on the S.W. confines of Knebworth Park. One mile S. is the village of Codicote. The neighbourhood is very pleasant.

Dudswell, a few cottages on the Grand Junction Canal, is 1/2 mile N.W. from Northchurch village, and 2 miles N.W. from Berkhampstead Station, L.&N.W.R.

East End (1 mile S.E. from Cole Green Station, G.N.R.) is between Panshanger Park and the River Lea. There is also a hamlet of the same name on the Essex border, about 5 miles N.E. from Braughing Station, G.E.R.

EASTWICK (1 mile N.W. from Burnt Mill Station, G.E.R.) is a parish near the Essex border, on the river Stort. The church, rebuilt in 1873, is in E.E. style. It is locally famous for its recumbent statue of a knight in chain armour, resting on a raised slab; the legs are crossed. There is neither date nor name; but it has been surmised (1) that the crossing of the legs shows that he was probably a crusader, (2) that the effigy dates from early in the thirteenth century and represents a member of the De Toni or De Ros family. The former conjecture is undoubtedly erroneous. There is a piscina in the chancel.

ELSTREE, formerly Idlestree, is a large village beautifully situated on the Middlesex border; the station (M.R.) is to the N.E. at Boreham Wood. At the N. end of the street a fine view stretches in the direction of Radlett and St. Albans. The Church of St. Nicholas was founded by the Benedictine monks of St. Albans in the fourteenth century; the present structure is Dec. and dates from 1853. The monuments are unimportant; but the wrought-iron chancel screen, designed by Sir A. W. Blomfield, is worthy of careful scrutiny, as is also the vestry screen of carved oak. The five-light E. window was presented by the pupil of a former rector, John Morris, D.D. (d. 1848), to whom it is a memorial. In the old churchyard, closed some years ago, was buried the notorious robber and reputed murderer William Weare, who was murdered by Thurtell on Gill's Hill, 21/2 miles N.W., in 1823. Here, too, was buried Martha Reay, whose life was a chronicle of crime; she was mistress to the Earl of Sandwich, and was killed on leaving Covent Garden Theatre, in 1779. There is excellent fishing to be had at Elstree Reservoir, a little W., in Aldenham parish. Some archaeologists have thought that the Roman city Sulloniacae occupied (approximately) the site on which Elstree stands, and Norden lent his authority to this hypothesis; but there is little doubt that Brockley Hill near Edgware more closely corresponds in position with the city mentioned in the Itinerary of Antoninus.

Epping Green, a hamlet 1 mile S.E. from Little Berkhampstead, is at the N. end of Punsborne Park. The nearest station is Cole Green (G.N.R.), nearly 4 miles N.W.

ESSENDON is a pretty village on rising ground overlooking the Valley of the Lea, 2 miles S. from Cole Green Station. The church, standing in the park, was rebuilt in 1883; it was probably founded as early as the twelfth century. It is now of flint, dressed with ancaster stone. Note (1) alabaster monument to William Priestly (d. 1664); (2) brass and effigy of William Tooke, auditor of the Court of Wards and Liveries (d. 1588); (3) shields from the tomb of Henry Courtenay, son of Henry, Marquess of Exeter; (4) chalice bearing date 1570, given to the church by Elizabeth Reynes; (5) Baskerville Bible presented by the First Marquess of Salisbury. During restoration several slabs to the Tooke family (1635-55) were discovered. Essendon Place (David Citroen, Esq.) is a fine house in a park of 100 acres; and Bedwell Park (C. G. Arbuthnot, Esq.) should be visited, by special permission, to view the Belvedere Collection, including one of Murillo's many "Assumptions".

Exnells, near the river Ash, is a small hamlet 2 miles N.E. from Hadham Station, G.E.R.

Fanham Hall is 1 mile N.E. from Ware.

Fisher's Green (1/2 mile N.W. from Stevenage) is a small hamlet.

Flamstead (21/2 miles N.W. from Redbourn Station, M.R.) lies on high ground near the river Ver. The name is a corruption of Verlamstead, the river having formerly been called the "Verlam". The church is in the centre of the village; it is a large Dec. structure dating from the fourteenth century; the nave is of six bays, with fine octagonal pillars. The tower is very large and massive. Note (1) piscina in W. wall of vestry, once a chapel; (2) piscina in chancel; (3) finely carved oak chancel screen, dating from fifteenth century but restored in 1893; (4) mutilated altar-tomb in nave, carved and crocketted, but bearing no inscription, it is probably not later than 1400-20; (5) marble monument, with Ionic columns, to Thomas Saunders of Beechwood; (6) brass to John Oudeby, rector of the church (d. 1414); (7) effigy in armour to Sir Bartholomew Fouke, Kt., for many years Master of the Household to Queen Elizabeth (d. 1604). At Beechwood Park, so called because of the many fine beeches in the neighbourhood, was once a Benedictine Nunnery. The walk from Flamstead to Great Gaddesden, by way of Beechwood Park (about 6 miles), is very picturesque.

Flamstead Bury is 1 mile W. from Redbourn Station, M.R., and midway between the N. end of the village and a spot called Heaven's Gate.

Flamstead End (11/2 mile N.W. from Cheshunt Station, G.E.R.) is a considerable hamlet.

Flaunden (4 miles S.W. from Boxmoor Station, L.&N.W.R.) is a village and parish on the Bucks border, with the river Chess 11/4 mile S. The present church is modern, and local folk claim that it is the first built by the late Sir Gilbert Scott. The font, and a few tiles, etc., were brought here from the old church at Flaunden Bottom near Chenies, some ruins of which still remain. Chauncy tells us that Flaunden belonged to the manor of Hemel Hempstead, that it was granted to one Thomas Flaunden, who built a small church in the valley near the river (Chess) with a small tower of timber at the W. end. Spiritual offices were performed by a curate supplied from Hemel Hempstead, who served Bovingdon and Flaunden by turns as duty required.

Folly, The (a small hamlet 1 mile N.W. from Wheathampstead Station, G.N.R.), is passed on the way to Harpenden or Mackery End. A little farther W. is Batford Mill on the river Lea.

Frithsden (or Friesden), a hamlet 2 miles N.E. from Great Berkhampstead, stands in a beautiful district, with Ashridge Park to the N.W. The nearest church is at the pretty village of Nettleden (q.v.) 1/2 mile N.E. High Park Road, Evesden Wood, Marigold Wood, Holly Bush Wood and Frithsden copses are all adjacent and may be visited during an hour's ramble.

FROGMORE (3/4 mile S.E. from Park Street Station, L.&N.W.R.) is a hamlet between the villages of Park Street and Colney Street. The church is modern, in late Norman style; it stands close to the high road from Radlett to St. Albans. There are several memorial windows to local persons. The village flower show has been held for many years in July, and is well patronised and widely known. The river Colne flows between this hamlet and Park Street Station.

FURNEAUX PELHAM (4 miles N.E. from Braughing Station, G.E.R.) has an interesting E.E. and Perp. church. One of the six bells in the embattled W. tower dates from before the Reformation; it bears, in black-letter, the words "Sancta Katarina ora pro nobis"; upon the clock in the tower are the words: "Time flies. Mind your business." Note (1) piscina and sedilia in chancel; (2) piscina in each aisle; (3) Newport Chapel adjoining S. aisle, built by the Robert Newport whose brass and effigy is in the nave (d. 1518); (4) brass (mutilated) in chapel, representing two figures, temp. Richard II.; (5) ambry (lancet headed) in chancel; (6) three ancient stone coffins, discovered during restoration, one bearing the words: "Simonis de Furneaux Filius". The De Furneaux were a Norman family, to whom the village owes its name: Simon de Furneaux was lord of the manor in the reign of Edward I. Close to the church is Furneaux Pelham Hall (recently unoccupied), a fine Elizabethan mansion whose owners suffered several misfortunes during the civil wars.

GADDESDEN, GREAT (3 miles N.W. from Hemel Hempstead), is a village on the river Gade at the foot of the hill that leads to Nettleden. The church is close to the river side, and immediately behind the Cock and Bottle Inn. It is an ancient structure of "Roman bricks" and flint (E.E.), believed to date from, say, 1290; the tower was rebuilt in 1862. There are many memorials to the Halsey family, but few others of any interest. Gaddesden Place, in a park 1/2 mile E., is the seat of Rt. Hon. T. F. Halsey, Esq., D.L., J.P. It was built from designs by Wyatt, in 1774, in an Italian style.

GADDESDEN, LITTLE (4 miles N. from Berkhampstead Station, L.&N.W.R.), is a straggling village on the confines of Ashridge Park. Pretty cottages and tastefully planned gardens meet the eye everywhere. The church is Perp. and contains many monuments to the Egerton family, Earls of Bridgewater: (1) Sir John Egerton, Kt. (d. 1649); (2) Lady Frances, Countess of Bridgewater (d. 1635); (3) John, Viscount Brackley, Lord of the Privy Council (d. 1686); (4) Elizabeth, Countess of Bridgewater, a "transcendently virtuous lady" of "beauty so unparallel'd that 'tis as much beyond the art of the most elegant pen, as it surpasseth the skill of several of the most exquisite pencils ... to describe and not disparage it" (d. 1663); (5) Ann, Lady Egerton (d. 1625); (6) Francis, third Duke of Bridgewater (d. 1803). The latter was styled the Father of British Inland Navigation; and the tall column near Ashridge Park, 13/4 mile W. from the church, was erected to his memory in 1832.

Gaddesden Green is practically one with the above, the marble cross and fountain to the memory of Lady Marian Alford (d. 1888) being between the village and the Green. Gaddesden Hoe is 2 miles E. from the S. end of the Green.

Gaddesden Row (3 miles N. from Hemel Hempstead Station, M.R.) is a straggling hamlet equidistant (about 2 miles) from Flamstead and Great Gaddesden.

GADE, river. (See Introduction.)

Gallows Hill (1/2 mile S. from King's Langley Station, L.&N.W.R.) is a hamlet. The Booksellers' Provident Retreat is here. It is also the name of a hill between Hertford and Ware, on which stands the Joint Isolation Hospital for the two towns.

Gannock Green is 21/2 miles S. from Ashwell Station, G.N.R. The nearest church is at Sandon. Gannock Farm is 1/2 mile E.

Gardener's End (31/2 miles W. from Buntingford) is a hamlet in the parish of Ardeley.

Garston is 11/4 mile S.W. from Bricket Wood Station, L.&N.W.R.

Gibraltar, on the road from Harpenden to Luton, is on the Bedfordshire border, close to Luton Hoo Park and Station, G.N.R.

GILSTON (2 miles N. from Burnt Hill Station (Essex) and about 2 miles S.E. from Widford village) is a scattered parish. Chauncy says it was probably waste ground at the time of the Conquest, as there is no mention of it in Domesday Book. The church was very probably erected by Geoffrey de Magnaville, who was Earl of Essex and Lord of the Manor of Sabriesword (Sawbridgeworth) during the reign of Stephen. It is E.E. and stands on the hill about 1/4 mile N. from the Park. There is a fine double piscina in the chancel, and some heraldic glass in the windows, showing the coats of Astley, Bassett, Eastfield and Engayne. The monuments to the Gore family are numerous; amongst those buried in the church are (1) Sir John Gore, Kt. (d. 1659); he was twice sheriff of the county, and a member of Cromwell's second Protectorate Parliament; (2) Dame Dorothy Gore (Kempe), second wife to the foregoing (d. 1645); (3) Dame Persis, wife to Sir Humphrey Gore, Kt. (d. 1665); (4) in churchyard, John, eldest son of the said Sir Humphrey (d. 1691). The Feathers, a fine old inn (circa 1680), still stands in this village; an excellent photograph of it was reproduced in the Home Counties Magazine (Oct. 1901). Gilston Park, beautiful but not very extensive, should be visited; for the mansion (A. S. Bowlby, Esq., M.A., J.P., etc.) stands near the site of New Place, successively the home of the Chauncys, Gores and Plumers. The house was enlarged and beautified by Sir Humphrey Gore, who was knighted at Whitehall in 1660. In 1701 it passed into the hands of Col. John Plumer, whose family is so well known to readers of the Essays of Elia. It was his grandson William (d. 1822) whom Lamb calls "a fine old Whig". This William left no family, so the house at Gilston Park and his other house, the famous "Blakesmoor in H——shire" of Lamb's essay, passed to his widow (and cousin) Jane Hamilton, a daughter of Hon. George Hamilton, Canon of Windsor.

Goff's Oak (21/2 miles W. from Cheshunt Station, G.E.R.) is a hamlet which owes its name to the fine oak, a part of which still stands near the Goff's Oak Inn at the S. extremity of Cheshunt Common.

GORHAMBURY. (See St. Albans.)

Gosmore (2 miles S.W. from Hitchin Station, G.N.R.) is a small village. The nearest church is at Ippollitts (q.v.).

Gossoms End is on the road from Berkhampstead to Tring, 1/4 mile S.E. from Northchurch.

GRAVELEY (11/2 mile N.E. from Stevenage Station, G.N.R.) is a village off the Great North Road. By walking from Stevenage towards Little Wymondley[i] a pretty view over Graveley may be obtained from a gateway near some cottages on the right. The ancient church of brick and flint is late Norman with embattled tower; it was restored in 1886-7. The carved oak chancel-screen is ancient; there are windows of stained glass to the memory of local rectors. The present N. aisle was added during restoration. The manor of Graveley is of great antiquity; it was given by William I. to William, Earl of Ewe. Graveley is perhaps Saxon for "the Reeve's land," and Norden thinks the place took its name from a Reeve of the county in pre-Norman times. Near the village a beacon was employed "once upon a time" to give warning of the approach of enemies. One mile N. from the church is Jack's Hill, once the haunt of a robber, "Jack o' legs," the hero of many a legend known in the district. His grave is shown in Weston churchyard, 2 miles E. from Jack's Hill.

Gravesend (31/2 miles N.E. from Braughing Station, G.E.R.) is a hamlet on the road from Little Hadham to Furneaux Pelham. Albury church is 1 mile S.

Green End is the name of three hamlets, (1) in the parish of Little Munden, about 4 miles W. from Standon Station; (2) in the parish of Sandon, about 4 miles N.W. from Buntingford Station (both stations G.E.R.); (3) 1/2 mile N. from Boxmoor Station, L.&N.W.R.

Green Street.—There are two hamlets of this name in Herts, (1) 21/2 miles N.W. from Bishop's Stortford; (2) 11/2 mile N.E. from Boreham Wood Station (M.R.).

Green Tye is 11/2 mile N.E. from Hadham Station, G.E.R.

Grub's Barn (2 miles S.E. from Welwyn Station, G.N.R.) consists of a farmhouse and several cottages on open breezy ground between Hatfield and Tewin.

Grub's Lane is near the outskirts of Hatfield Park, 3 miles S.E. from the town.

Gubblecot (3 miles N.W. from Tring) is near the Aylesbury Canal. The Tring reservoirs, famous for the rare waterfowl shot on those waters on many occasions, are a little to the S.

Gustard Wood (1 mile N. from Wheathampstead Station G.N.R.) may be visited for its golf links, of which there are few in the county.

HADHAM (GREAT or MUCH) is an ancient village and parish near the river Ash. The station, G.E.R., is 11/4 mile S.W. We read that the Manor was given by King Edgar to the Bishops of London, several of whom have resided at the old manor house. Katherine, mother of Henry VI. and wife of Owen Tudor, gave birth to a son here, known as Edmund of Hadham. The church of St. Andrew, near the river, is E.E., dating from about 1300. It has been much altered and restored. The very fine S. porch is thought to be the work of Bishop Kemp (1459-89); the massive, embattled W. tower is probably by Bishop Braybroke (circa 1400). Note (1) floriated cross and inscription to Simon Flambard, Rector of Hadham Magna in 1331, and chaplain to Edward III.; (2) brass to one Alban, also rector here (d. 1372); (3) monument in chancel to Judith Aylmer, widow of John Aylmer, Bishop of London (d. 1618); (4) fourteenth-century glass in E. window, a memorial to Thomas Randolph, a recent rector; (5) three brasses in nave to members of the Newce family (1579-1610); (6) fine oak chancel screen; (7) two piscinae in chancel. The old House, or Palace, dated from about 1400. Close to the village (S.W.) lies Moor Park, which readers or tourists must not confound with Moor Park, Rickmansworth (q.v.). The present mansion dates from about 1780; its predecessor was an Elizabethan structure, once the property of Sir John Gore, Kt. (see Gilston), and previously of Sir Garratt Harvey, in whose day Archbishop Usher was a guest at "Moore Place". At Perry Green, 1 mile E. from Hadham Station, is a chapel-of-ease, in E.E. style, erected in 1853. Hadham Cross is beautifully situated in the valley, S. from the village and partly hidden among trees.

Hadham Ford (3 miles E. from Standon Station, G.E.R.) is on the river Ash, 1 mile S.W. from

HADHAM (LITTLE) formerly Hadham Parva. The parish enjoys considerable historic importance through its connection with the Capel family, Earls of Essex. The present earl owns large properties in the neighbourhood, and has the title of Baron of Hadham. The church stands between the village and the river, and is widely known for its fine S. porch of timber, which it possibly owes to the proximity of Essex, in which county such porches are comparatively common. The building is mostly E.E., probably late twelfth century, but the tower, embattled and pinnacled, is Perp. (circa 1380). Note (1) brass to Rd. Waren, a rector of Great Hadham (circa 1470); (2) brass to a knight, his wife and daughters (circa 1485); (3) Perp. chancel screen of oak; (4) on S. side of chancel, memorial stone to "Arthur Lord Capel, Baron of Hadham, who was murder'd for his loyalty to King Charles the First, March the 9th, 1648". This was the Lord Capel whose heart was preserved in a silver box and given to Charles II. at the Restoration, the earl having wished his heart to be "buried with his master". The chancel was restored by Sir A. W. Blomfield in 1885. Hadham Hall (1/2 mile E. from the church) is late Elizabethan, and has a magnificent corridor extending the entire length of the house (135 feet) with finely mullioned windows. Little Hadham Place (1/2 mile W. from the church) is prettily situated. The manor of Hadham Parva formed part of the revenue of Saxon Kings until King Edgar gave it to the monks of Ely.

HAILEYBURY COLLEGE (2 miles S.E. from Hertford) was founded at Hertford in 1805 as the training college of the East India Company. It is now one of our most famous public schools. The house, conspicuous from the S.E., stands on high ground, and commands beautiful views over the valley of the Lea, and, looking S.E., the neighbourhood of Epping Forest. Note (1) the noble chestnut avenue towards the W. entrance; (2) the great size of the quadrangle; (3) the beautifully decorated chapel (by A. W. Blomfield), surmounted by a lofty dome; (4) the library, containing some good portraits of former masters, one of which, Canon Bradby, was painted by Herkomer.

Hall's Green (4 miles N.E. from Stevenage) is on the hillside, 1 mile S.E. from Weston church. A little farther S. note the fine view over Cromer and Cottered, with windmill to the left.

Hammond Street is between Cheshunt Common and Flamstead End. The nearest Station is Cheshunt, G.E.R., 21/2 miles S.E.

Hammond's End, on the outskirts of Rothamstead Park, is in the centre of the pleasant varied scenery between the M.R. and the St. Albans-Dunstable road. The nearest station is Redbourn, 11/4 mile S.W.

Handside (Upper and Lower) is the name of two hamlets in Lemsford parish, both near Brocket Hall Park. Hatfield (about 3 miles S.) is the nearest station, G.N.R.

HARE STREET.—There are two places in the county bearing this name: (1) a small hamlet partly in Ardeley and partly in Cottered parish; (2) a large village on the Cambridge Road, 2 miles E. from Buntingford. The village has several quaint old cottages, and is by no means unpicturesque; but it contains little of historic importance. It affords, however, a good centre from which to visit several old and interesting churches (described elsewhere in these pages); Layston, Wyddial, Anstey, and Great and Little Hormead being all within a short walk.

Harmer Green (1/2 mile N.E. from Welwyn Station) is a small hamlet N. from the Maran Valley.

HARPENDEN is well worth a visit and may be easily reached from St. Pancras (24 miles), or from King's Cross by changing at Hatfield. Visitors wishing to inspect the church, or to ramble through the large village, beautifully situated at the N. end of Harpenden Common, should be careful not to choose the day of the annual races, the Friday before Epsom week. The church was rebuilt (except the tower) in 1862, in E. Dec. style; prior to 1859 the old structure had been a chapel-of-ease to Wheathampstead (3 miles E.). It probably dated from say 1140 (temp. Stephen) and was originally cruciform and late Norman. The first tower is believed to have been destroyed by fire about 1470, after which the present W. tower was built. Many alterations were made during the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries; the original Norman clerestory, in particular, being superseded by one of Low Perp. Note (1) Norman font; (2) brass to William Cressye Esq. (d. 1558) and Grace (Johnson) his wife (d. 1571); (3) brass to William Annabull (d. 1456), and Isabella his wife. Chauncy quotes an inscription to one William Seabrooke (d. 1462) and Joanna his wife, which is of some interest from the fact that the name of Seabrooke is common to-day in this part of Herts; (4) E. window of stained Munich glass; (5) window in N. transept to the family of the late Sir J. B. Lawes of Rothamstead. Rothamstead (1 mile S.W.), formerly the seat of the above, is in a finely wooded park. Erected about 1470, it has been almost rebuilt at different times. From the grand entrance, under the clock tower, there is a fine view looking S. There is an annual Flower Show in the park. Harpenden Bury is 1 mile N.W. from Rothamstead, on the river Ver.

Hatching Green is a hamlet on Harpenden Common, 1 mile S.W. from the station, M.R.

HATFIELD may be visited by fast train from King's Cross, G.N.R. (17 miles), the station being opposite the W. gates of the park. The older parts of the town lie on the western slope of a hill close to the railway; at the top stand the church and portions of the old palace, beyond which, in the park, stands the fine mansion of the Cecils. The town is of great antiquity; the Saxon Kings, who called it Heathfield (the Hetfelle of Domesday Book), owned the manor until it was given by Edgar to the monks of Ely. After Ely had been converted into a bishopric by Henry I., the bishops made Hatfield one of their several residences, which gave rise to its former name of Bishop's Hatfield. Their palace became a royal home during the reign of Henry VIII., and was at one time occupied by his children Edward, Mary and Elizabeth. It was to this old palace that Elizabeth was brought from the Tower soon after her removal from Ashridge; whilst here she was in the custody of Sir Thomas Pope, who treated her with kindness not always shown even to royal prisoners. The story of her reception of the news that she was Queen, of her first Council, held here in the palace, and of her subsequent journey to London, has been too often narrated to need repetition. Immediately after her death James I. paid a visit to Theobalds Park, and had an interview with Sir Robert Cecil, a younger son of Lord Burleigh, whom he presently created first Earl of Salisbury. The exchange by the King of his manor of Hatfield for that of Theobalds has been mentioned in the Introduction (Section X). The King promised to build for Sir Robert a new house at Hatfield; the work was carried out on a magnificent scale, and was completed sometime in 1611. The new house stood a little E. from the old palace. To this house James paid an early visit; one of its most stately apartments is called "King James's Room".



Hatfield House is still a fine example of early Jacobean architecture. To be appreciated it must certainly be seen: any adequate account of its architecture, its history and its treasures would fill such a volume as this. In shape it is a parallelogram, about 280 feet long by 70 feet wide, with two wings on the S. front. The centre between the two wings is Italian Renaissance in style; the central tower, pierced by the great gate, being of rich Elizabethan design. On the face of the third storey of the tower are the armorial bearings of the Earl of Salisbury. This S. front and the two wings enclose on three sides a quadrangle about 130 feet wide by 100 feet deep, beautifully laid out with flower beds and lawns. The extremities of each wing take the shape of square, three storeyed towers, surmounted by cupolas 20 feet high. Between the wings runs a basement arcade, of eight arches on Doric pilasters, four on each side of the gateway below the armorial bearings. The entire floor above the arcade is occupied by the long gallery, 160 feet by 20 feet, and 16 feet high. At the W. end of this gallery is the library, at the E. end is King James's Room. The aspect of the house from the N. is not so imposing; but there is a noble view over the grounds from the N. terrace, and the central clock tower is a conspicuous object from the most distant spots in the park. The library, graced by Zucchero's portrait of Robert, Earl of Salisbury, contains one of the most valuable collections of MSS. in the country, but the State Papers have recently been lodged in a room of greater security. A few of the treasures of these two rooms may be mentioned: (1) more than 12,000 autograph letters of the early Cecils; (2) the Diary of the "great Lord Burleigh"; (3) the forty-two articles of Edward VI. with his autograph attached; (4) a vellum MS. with miniature of Henry VII.; (5) the Norfolk correspondence; (6) the Council Book of Mary Tudor; (7) early MS. of the Chronicle of William of Malmesbury; (8) autograph MS. by Ascham.



King James's Room has three fine oriel windows and is profusely decorated. The great chimney-piece of marble mosaic, 12 feet wide, is supported on black Doric columns, and surmounted by a statue in bronze of James. Note the costly candelabra and gilt-framed furniture.

The Grand Staircase is hung with portraits of many Cecils, by Lely, Vandyck, Kneller, Reynolds and other masters. Note the huge dimensions of the carved balustrade; the strange rustic figures portrayed thereon; and the lions grasping shields bearing heraldic devices. There are five landings.

Among other apartments the following should be visited: (1) The Chapel, with its fine Flemish windows representing scriptural stories, marble altar-piece, and open stalls; (2) the Winter Dining Room, looking out upon the N. terrace, about 30 feet square; this room contains many valuable pictures, including Wilkie's Duke of Wellington, Van Somer's James I. and Charles I., and Kneller's Peter the Great; (3) Great Banqueting Hall; (4) Summer Dining Room, near the foot of the great staircase; the bust of Burleigh, in white marble, is above the door; (5) the Armoury, full of treasures "rich and rare," suits of armour, relics of the Spanish Armada, various arms, etc. Other pictures in various parts of the house include (1) William III., and Lady Ranelagh, by Kneller; (2) half-length of Elizabeth with jewelled head-dress and grotesquely embroidered gown; Mildred Coke, mother of the first earl; Thomas Cecil, Earl of Exeter: all by Zucchero; (3) fine whole-length of Mary, first Marchioness of Salisbury, by Reynolds.

The Park is the largest in the county, being about 9 miles in circumference; it is undulating and beautifully wooded. There are some superb avenues. Of Queen Elizabeth's oak, N.E. from the N. terrace, little is left saving a portion of trunk, railed round; but the Lion Oak, between the house and the great W. gates, still puts forth leaves in its season. The maze close to the house is only less famous than that at Hampton Court.

The Church of St. Ethelreda is cruciform, largely Dec. and one of the largest in the county. A Norman arch in the S. transept is thought to be a portion of the original structure. It was completely restored, indeed almost rebuilt, in 1872. The nave is 102 feet by 20 feet; the chancel about 40 feet by 20 feet. There are N. and S. porches; the former looks almost directly upon the great gate-house of the old palace. The most important among many features of interest is the—

Salisbury Chapel, N. side of chancel, from which it is divided by an arcade of three arches on Ionic granite columns. The whole is enclosed by beautifully designed iron gates, the work, probably, of an unknown Italian. Note the marble wainscotting, and the finely conceived and executed allegorical paintings and mosaics on walls and roof. At the E. side, on a slab of black marble supported by four kneeling figures in white marble (representing the cardinal virtues) lies the recumbent effigy of Sir Robert Cecil, first Earl of Salisbury, Lord High Treasurer of England (d. 1612). The effigy is in robes, with official staff in hand. Beneath the slab is a skeleton in white marble. Note also in this chapel mezzo-relievo effigy to William Curll, Esq. (d. 1617), with inscription, almost illegible, to the effect that he was a most Christian knight who died in hope of a joyful resurrection.

On the opposite (S.) side of the chancel is the Brockett Chapel, containing monuments to the Reades and Brocketts of Brocket Hall (see below). Among them note (1) two recumbent female figures, above them the arms of the Brockett family and beneath an inscription to Dame Elizabeth Brockett (d. 1612) and an epitaph to Dame Agnes Saunders (d. 1588); (2) medallion of a female by Rysbrack (1760); (3) bust of Sir James Reade, Bart. (d. 1701), and of Sir John Reade, Bart. (d. 1711); (4) helmet of Sir John Brockett on wall. There are piscinae in the chancel and N. transept, both discovered during restoration. The reredos, alabaster and mosaic, has a fine crucifixion group, with SS. Alban and Etheldreda on either side, carved by Earp, who also carved the pulpit of Caen stone. Note the beautiful clustered shafts of marble on the font of Tisbury stone, the gift of the late Marchioness of Salisbury.

Three miles N.N.W. is Brocket Hall. The Great North Road skirts the park on the E. and the river Lea flows past the house from N.W. to S.E. The present edifice was designed by Paine for Sir Matthew Lamb, Bart., whose son, Sir Peniston Lamb, Bart., became Viscount Melbourne in 1780. By this nobleman the Prince Regent was sometimes entertained here, and here, as stated in the Introduction, Lord Palmerston died in 1865. The drawing-room and grand staircase have always been admired, but, as a whole, the house is large and stately rather than beautiful. Elizabeth is said to have visited here before she became Queen, and in the park, as at Hatfield, an oak is shown as the one under which she loved to sit. From the Hall the most charming walks may be taken in any direction; e.g., through the park S.E. to Lemsford Mill, or S.W. to Cromer Hyde, N.W. to Water End, or N.E. to Ayot Green. More charming still is the ramble—permission should be requested—beside the winding Lea towards Old Marford and Wheathampstead.

Hatfield Hyde (13/4 mile N.E. from Hatfield) is a hamlet in a pretty district, with the river Lea and Hatfield Park a little S.

Haultwick lies 3 miles W. from the Old North Road; it is a hamlet 1 mile N. from Little Munden. The nearest station is Braughing, G.E.R. (about 31/2 miles E.), passing the S. side of Hamel's Park.

Heavensgate (2 miles W. from Redbourn Station, M.R.) consists of a few cottages in the centre of a district of small hamlets. The walk (2 miles N.) to Flamstead through Trowley Bottom is pleasant.



HEMEL HEMPSTEAD.—Visitors from London should book to Boxmoor (L.&N.W.R.) and walk N.E. over the little common or take the motor-bus through Marlowes to the town (11/2 mile). From St. Albans it is a pleasant walk by way of Gorhambury and the village of Leverstock Green; from Redbourn it is but a few minutes' journey (M.R.). The town, until recently an old "Bailiwick," is on a hill, with central market place, town hall and corn exchange. The church is very ancient; it is cruciform, of flint and clunch stone. The oldest portions can hardly be less than 750 years old; the nave, arcade and W. doorway are fine examples of the period. Note (1) groined roof and Dec. windows S. side of chancel; (2) transept roof, fourteenth century, restored in 1880; (3) nave roof, fifteenth century, restored 1885; (4) great height of octagonal, leaded spire, conspicuous for miles round (see illustration). Among monuments note (1) figured brass, representing an armed man, to Robert Albyn and Margaret his wife (1480); the inscription I transcribe from Chauncy:—

"Robert Albyn gist icy Et Margareta sa femme oubike luy Dieu de lez almes eyt mercy";

(2) monument to Sir Astley Paston Cooper (d. 1841).

Hemel Hempstead, according to Norden, owed its name (Heanhamsted) to the high hemp-land on the E. side of the town. Offa, King of the Mercians, gave six houses at Hemelhamstede to the Abbey of St. Albans; but the remainder of the vill remained in the hands of Saxon Kings until it was given to Earl Moreton by William I. The entry in Domesday Book is in this case unusually interesting; the property held by Earl Moreton is thus described: "Earl Moreton held Hamelhamstede in Treung hundred, it was rated for 10 hides ... there are two Frenchmen born, with thirteen Bordars, ... there are eight Servants, and four Mills of seven and thirty Shillings and four Pence Rent by the Year, and three hundred Eels wanting five and twenty, Meadow four Carucates, Common of Pasture for the Cattle, and two Shillings Rent by the Year, Wood to feed one thousand and two hundred Hogs; in the whole value it is worth two and twenty Pounds, when he received it five and twenty Pounds, and Rent in the time of King Edward (the Confessor). Two were Brethren, Men of Earl Lewin, they held this mannor." From Priory Hill, W. from the church, a fine view may be obtained of the town below and the cornfields beyond. Bury Mill is on the river Gade, at the foot of the hill. Gadesbridge Park is on the left as you pass from High Street to Piccott's End; the House is on a beautifully wooded slope, W. from the Gade; it is the residence of Sir Astley Paston Paston Cooper, Bart., J.P., etc. A good deal of straw plait is still made by the women of this neighbourhood.

Heronsgate (3 miles W. from Rickmansworth) is a hamlet on the Bucks border, with a small chapel-of-ease to St. Peter's, Mill End, 11/4 mile E. The building is modern, with one window of stained glass.



HERTFORD, the county town, is of immemorial antiquity. The origin of the name has elicited much learned conjecture, and Hertford is one of several places held to be the Durocobrivis mentioned by Antonine. It is the Herudsford (i.e. red ford) of the Venerable Bede. That it was a town of some importance on the river Lea even in the days of the Trinobantes seems indisputable. Norden conjectured that the true name of the town was Hartford, so called because in Saxon times, when the surrounding country was densely wooded, the harts crossed the river by a natural ford at this spot. However this may be, the old borough seal, three or four centuries ago, bore as a device a hart in shallow water. The rivers Rib, Beane, and Maran all unite with the Lea in the immediate neighbourhood. Some reference may be here made to the doings of Alfred the Great in this neighbourhood. By putting together what is recorded by William of Malmesbury, Henry of Huntingdon, Asser and others we learn that in the twenty-third year of Alfred's reign the Danes infested the Thames with their ships, sailed up the Lea in the lighter of their crafts, and built a fort about 20 miles from London, at or near what is now the town of Ware. Presently, in the course of their many foraging excursions, they sailed farther up the river towards Hertford, stripped the people in the town and burnt down many houses. They afterwards established a garrison near the town. Alfred brought his army down to the river side the following year and made a careful survey of the Danish fort and of the character and position of their ships. He is said to have passed from place to place in a boat, drawn by a horse, and to have carefully ascertained the depth of the water at different points. The precise nature of his subsequent operations is not well known, but he is said to have diverted the course of the river, to have erected a dam (Shass) at Blackwall, and by these means to have grounded the Danish fleet. The Danes held a treaty, and eventually withdrew into Cambridgeshire and Gloucestershire; the Londoners came down to the scene of Alfred's ingenuity and destroyed or appropriated the Danish ships.

Of the castle, built by Edward the Elder in 905, there still remain several large fragments of an embattled wall, partly Norman, and a postern gate. Of its history only a few leading facts can be mentioned here. William I. entrusted it to the keeping of Peter de Valoignes; it was besieged by Louis the Dauphin, and capitulated on the Feast of St. Nicholas in 1216; it was granted, together with the town, to John of Gaunt, Earl of Richmond, in whose time Kings John of France and David of Scotland were prisoners within its walls, and after the Earl had been created Duke of Lancaster he held a court in the castle for three weeks. It was the last prison house of Isabella, widow of Edward II. Henry IV. gave the castle to his wife Joan; Henry V. to his wife Katherine of France; and Henry VI. to his wife Margaret of Anjou. Elizabeth and James I. are both said to have visited this castle. Charles I., on 3rd May, in the sixth year of his reign, transferred it to William Earl of Salisbury. It was seized by the Parliament during the Great Rebellion.

The Roman Catholic Church in St. John Street stands on or near the site of the old Priory, founded during the reign of William I. by Ralph Limesy and by him conveyed to the Abbot of St. Albans, who placed here six Benedictine monks under Ralph, who became their first prior. The Priory was dissolved in the twenty-sixth year of Henry VIII.; but the church was rebuilt by Thomas Willis in 1629. It was "demolisht by order of the Bishop of Lincoln" towards the end of the seventeenth century. The church of All Saints, on high ground E. from the town, was destroyed by fire in 1891, when almost everything perished. It was immediately rebuilt as a Perp. structure of Runcorn stone, and consecrated in 1895. In the main, the plan of the old church has been followed, but the aisles are longer than formerly; note the fine clerestoried nave of five bays, and hexagonal N. porch. The old building contained monuments to Sir John Harrison, Kt., Farmer of Customs to Charles I. (d. 1669);[4] to Isabel Newmarch, maid of honour to Isabella, daughter of Charles VI. of France and second wife to Richard II.; and to Johannes Prest, "porter" (janitor) to Katherine, wife of Henry V. The two latter monuments were removed more than 200 years ago. Note the beautiful chestnut trees in the avenue near the church, and the many quaint epitaphs on the tombstones in the extensive graveyard. The Church of St. Andrew is modern; it occupies the site of an older Perp. edifice, originally founded before the Conquest. Close by in the market place is the Shire Hall, a large brick building of "questionable shape" erected towards the close of the eighteenth century. Malting, brewing and general trade in corn and its products form the larger part of the industries of Hertford. Between this town and Ware is the spot where Cromwell put a summary period to the insurrection of the "Levellers" by shooting a ringleader named Arnald.

[Footnote 4: This Sir John Harrison erected the fine brick mansion in Balls Park, S.E. from Hertford, once the property of Charles Townsend, Secretary of State to George II. His widow built four almshouses at Butchery Green, long ago decayed.]

Hertford Heath. (See Amwell, Little.)

HERTINGFORDBURY may be visited from Hertford, the station (G.N.R.) being 11/2 mile S.W. The village is pleasantly situated on the river Maran, on the S. confines of Panshanger Park. The church, partly rebuilt by Earl Cowper in 1890-3, was founded during the fifteenth century. It contains little of architectural interest, but the monuments are numerous: (1) marble mosaic altar tomb to Sir W. Harrington, with alabaster effigies of himself and wife and inscription in rhyme; (2) slab to Thomas Ellis (d. 1608) and Grace his wife (d. 1612); (3) recumbent effigy in marble to Lady Calvert, wife of Sir George Calvert, Kt., who died in 1622; (4) to Dr. Jonathan Browne, Dean of Hertford (d. 1643); (5) very ancient brass inscription beneath chancel arch to two daughters of Robert de Louthe, and one of similar age to Robert de Louthe and his wife. The Cowper Chapel, N. side of chancel, contains many monuments to that family, particularly a fine alto-relievo by Roubeliac to Spencer Cowper (d. 1727), chief Justice of Chester in 1717.

HEXTON (about 6 miles N.W. from Hitchin Station, G.N.R.) lies on a tongue of the county surrounded W., N. and E. by Bedfordshire. The Church of St. Faith, W. from the village, was rebuilt, with the exception of the embattled tower, in 1824, as a Perp. edifice. The St. Nicholas Chapel, N. side of chancel, takes the place of the chapel bearing the same name in the former church. There is a memorial to Peter Taverner (d. 1601), who was, I suppose, father to that Francis Taverner, Esq., who compiled a record of the antiquities of Hexton and set it in the chapel. Little space can be spared for excerpts in this volume, but the details which Taverner brought together are so interesting that I transcribe a part of them from a copy in my possession:—

"Near unto the Roman military Way called Icknild or Ikenild-Street, which passeth by this Parish upon a very high Hill is to be seen a warlike Fort of great Strength, and ancient Works, which seemeth to have been a Summer standing Camp of the Romans: And near it on the Top of another Hill called Wayting-Hill, a Hillock was raised up, such as the Romans were wont to rear for Souldiers slain, wherein many Bones have been found. The Saxons call'd this Fort Ravensburgh, from a City in Germany, whereof the Duke of Saxony beareth the Title of Lord at this Day. And this Town, which the Britains perhaps call'd Hesk of Reed, which doth abound much in this Place; the Sazons call'd Heckstanes-Tune, that is the Town of Reed and Stones, if not rather Hockstanes-Tune, that is, the Town of Mire and Stones, for old Englishmen, call deep Mire, Hocks: Or may be from Grates set in Rivers or Waters before Floodgates, which are call'd Hecks; neither is it unlikely but that the Danes made some Use of this Fort, for a Parcel of Ground near thereunto is called Dane-Furlong to this Day. Some of these Conjectures may be true, but this is certain, that Offa, a Saxon King, of the Mertians about 795, founded the Monastery of St. Albans, in Memory of St. Alban, and that Sexi an honourable and devout Dane (as it is in the Chartulary of the Abby) about Anno Dom. 1030, gave to the said Monastery the Town of Heckstane-Tune and the Abbot of St. Albans held this Mannor in the time of King William the Conqueror.

"This Vill at that time did lie in the Half-hundred of Hiz, and from that time during the Space of 510 Years, the Abbots of St. Albans were Lords of the Mannors now call'd Hexton. They were also Patrons of this Church (dedicated to St. Faith, which Saint had her Statue erected over a Fountain near this Church Yard, call'd St. Faith's Well) for John de Hertford, the 23d Abbot, did appropriate this Church of Hexstoneston to the said Monastery. The Cellarers of which Monastery kept the Court Leet and the Court Baron, and received the Rents of the Demeasnes and Customary Tenants of this Mannor; and the Sacrists had the disposing of the Profits of the Rectory.

"The said Fort, which the common People call Ravensborough Castle, is cast up in the Form of an Oval, and containeth sixteen Acres, one Rood, and fifteen Poles of Ground, and is naturally strengthened with mighty deep and very steep Combs, which the inhabitants call Lyn.