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For the collar: Fasten yarn at corner of neck, in 1st block made in border, and make 3 trebles in the same place, make a block in the side of each 3 following blocks, along the neck toward the back, putting chain 1 between, 2 blocks in side of next, to widen, 6 blocks, widen, 3 blocks. Follow with a row of loops, and continue same as for cuffs, widening as directed and twice putting 6 trebles under each of 2 consecutive loops in outer row. Join at beginning and end of each row to upper edge of jacket-border.
Finish with a border of loops, as follows: A double between blocks, (chain 3, a double in same place) twice. Crochet a chain of the blue yarn and use this to lace under the arms, finishing the ends with loops as for the edge, and tying in a bow. Make a shorter chain for each cuff, lace together and tie in a little bow to the sleeve. A similar chain is used to draw in the neck.
Any preferred colors may, of course, be used. The jacket can be easily made large enough for an adult, and is beautiful in blue-and-white Saxony for a baby.
Babies' Jacket
Materials required are three skeins of Saxony yarn, one spool silk-finished crochet-cotton or crochet-silk, and two and one-half yards of No. 1 ribbon. Use a hook which will carry the yarn easily.
Make a chain of 100 stitches, turn.
1. Miss 1st 4 stitches, make a treble in each of 96 stitches, drawing up to about five-eighths of an inch. Break and fasten wool (this so the work will be done on the right side; one may turn, if preferred, but the effect is not so good).
2. Fasten in where you began, pull up, make 2 trebles in top of 3d treble and 1 treble back to where you fastened in, which makes a cross; repeat, making 32 crosses in all; break thread and again join in at the end where you began.
3. Make 21 trebles over 7 crosses, (12 trebles over next 2, 18 trebles over 6 crosses) twice, 12 over 2, and again 21 over 7, which brings you to end of row. The 12 trebles over 2 are to widen; the others are made 2 on each cross and 1 between.
4. Same as 2d row, 38 crosses.
5. Make 21 trebles plain (that is, 3 over each cross). 24 over 4 crosses, 21 plain, 12 over 2 crosses, 21 plain, 24 over next 4, 21 plain.
6. Forty-eight crosses.
7. Make 21 plain, 12 over next 2 crosses, 12 plain, (12 over next 2, 24 plain) twice, 12 over next 2, 12 plain, 12 over next 2, 21 plain.
8. Fifty-eight crosses.
9. Make 24 plain, miss 12 crosses, 24 plain, 12 over next 2, 24 plain, miss 12 crosses, 24 plain.
10. Thirty-six crosses.
11. Plain, with 3 extra trebles under each arm, and 6 extra over the 6 crosses at center of back.
12. Forty crosses.
13. Plain, with 6 extra in back.
14. Forty-two crosses.
15. Like 13th row.
16. Forty-four crosses.
17. Like 13th row.
18. Forty-six crosses.
19. Plain, without widening in the back.
Around the neck make spaces for the ribbon by fastening in at end of foundation-chain, chain 5, miss 2, a treble in next, * chain 2, miss 2, 1 treble, and repeat. Now make a row of crosses entirely around the jacket, putting extra crosses at corners to keep the work flat, follow this with a row of trebles, widening by making extra trebles at corners to turn them nicely, finish with a row of shells of 8 trebles in a stitch, miss 3, fasten, miss 3; repeat, and edge with the crochet-silk, making a double between 1st 2 trebles of shell, (chain 2, a double between next 2) 6 times, chain 2, double in double between shells, chain 2, and repeat.
For the sleeves:
1. Make 6 trebles on trebles under the arm, and 36 over the 12 crosses.
2. Fourteen crosses.
3. Plain, with 3 extra trebles under arm, 45 in all.
4. Fifteen crosses.
5. Same as 3d row, making 48 trebles.
6. Sixteen crosses.
7. Same as 3d row, making 51 trebles.
8. Seventeen crosses.
9. Same as 3d row, making 54 trebles.
Finish with shells and chain-loops, as described for the body of jacket. Run one and one-fourth yards of ribbon in the neck, and divide the remainder, running it in the 7th row of sleeve and making a pretty bow on top.
Baby's Shoes in Crochet
These little shoes may be made of crochet-cotton, or silk, white or delicate color, or of wool. They are very firm and neat, and shaped to the foot. The sample pair was made of No. 15 crochet-cotton; finer or coarser material will result in a smaller or larger shoe, by the same directions.
Commence at bottom of the sole with a chain of 33 stitches.
1. Miss 1st stitch, a double in each of 31 stitches, 3 in end stitch, 1 in each of 31 stitches down other side and 3 in last, join.
2. A double in 1st stitch, 2 in next, 1 in each double down the side to within 2 stitches of middle of toe, 2 in next, 1 in next, 3 in middle stitch, 1 in next, 2 in next, 1 in each down side, ending with 2 in 3d stitch from middle of heel, 1 in next, and 3 in next, join.
3. Chain 1, a double in each of 2 stitches, 2 in next, 1 in each down the side to within 4 of the end, 2 in next, 1 in each of 3, 3 in middle stitch, 1 in each of 3, 2 in next, 1 in each down side, 2 in 4th stitch from the end, 1 in each of 3, 2 in middle stitch of heel, join.
4. Same as 3d row, making an extra stitch between widenings.
5. Chain 4, miss 1, a treble in next, chain 1; repeat, making 2 trebles with 1 chain between in each of the widenings of the toe, and 3 trebles, with 1 chain between, at back of heel.
6. Chain 1, a double in each stitch all around, making 2 doubles in the widening spaces at side of toe and in the middle of heel.
7. Chain 1, a double in each stitch around, widening as usual on each side of toe and in the middle, also in middle of heel; join.
8. Same as 7th row.
9. Chain 4, * miss 1, a treble in next, chain 1; repeat around, join to 3d of 4 chain.
10. Chain 1, a double in each treble and in space; narrow 11 stitches from middle of toe by putting hook through 2 stitches at once, or by missing a stitch, also at middle of toe, join.
11, 12. Same as 10th row, making double in double, and narrowing as directed.
13. Like 11th row until you have reached the 3d narrowing on the vamp, then turn and work back across vamp, narrowing at the end, turn.
14. Chain 1, a double in each double across vamp, narrowing in the middle and at end.
15, 17. Like 13th row.
16, 18. Like 14th row.
19. Chain 1, a double in each double, narrowing at middle of vamp and on the sides.
20. Turn and work across top of vamp with a double in each stitch.
21. For the upper part of shoe, slip to 1st double at side of vamp, 2d row back, chain 11, turn, miss 1, 10 doubles in 10 stitches, catch in 1st double of side of shoe, a single in next double on side of shoe, turn; a double in each of 9 doubles, 2 in last, turn; chain 1, 2 doubles in 1st double, 1 in each following double, join to next double of side, a single in next, turn; a double in each double of last row, with 2 at end, turn; chain 1, a double in each of 2 doubles, chain 5, miss 5, a double in each following double, join to next double of side, a single in next, turn; double in each double, with 5 in 5 stitches of chain, turn; chain 1, a double in each double; join, slip in next double of side, turn; work 5 more rows, widening 1 stitch at end of every other row; then chain 4, turn; miss 1, a double in each of 3 stitches and double in each double, join, slip in next double, turn; work back with double in each double, chain 1, turn, 2 doubles in 2 doubles, chain 5, miss 5, double in double, join, slip in next double, turn, work back with double in double, chain 1, turn, and work double in double around to within 14 stitches of top of vamp on other side, turn; chain 1, double in double to edge of flap, turn; chain 1 and make a double in double around to the other side. Continue thus until you have worked 6 rows around top of shoe, then make a buttonhole as before, and finish with 4 rows. The shoe may be made higher, if desired, and more buttonholes added.
For the buttons. Chain 3, join; 8 doubles in ring; 2 doubles in each double; a double in each double; a double in every other double; slip in a pearl or porcelain button of requisite size, draw together, and sew to the shoe, matching the position of the buttonholes.
Ribbed House-Slippers
Use 2-fold Shetland zephyr, or any similar yarn of moderate twist. Commencing at the toe, make a chain of 11 stitches, turn.
1. A double in 2d stitch of chain and 1 in each of 8 stitches, 3 doubles in end chain, 1 double in each of 9 stitches down other side of chain, in same stitches where the 1st 9 doubles were worked, chain 1, turn.
2. Ten doubles in 10 doubles, taking up back vein of stitch to form the rib, 3 doubles in next, or center stitch, 10 doubles in 10 doubles, chain 1, turn.
3, 4, 5. Same as 2d row, making 1 extra double each side of center, each row.
6. A double in each double, without widening, chain 1, turn.
7. A double in each double, with 3 in center stitch.
Repeat 6th and 7th rows until you have 25 ribs, or the vamp is as deep as desired. If preferred, the widening may be made every row, putting 2 doubles in one and then the other, alternately, of the widening doubles.
For the side of foot make 24 doubles in 24 doubles, chain 1, turn, a double in double, chain 1, turn, and continue until you have 44 ribs, or the strip is of sufficient length to extend easily around the sole; join neatly to 24 doubles on opposite side of vamp.
Around top of slipper work a beading in which to run the elastic, thus: Fasten in, between 2 ribs, chain 10, * miss 5 ribs, a triple treble (over 3 times) between next 2, chain 1, a triple treble between next 2, chain 5, repeat from * around, ending with 1 triple treble, chain 1, join to 5th of 10 chain.
For ruching: Have 3 strands of yarn, insert hook in work, over 4 times, pull through, and repeat in each stitch, pulling the loops out about three-fourths inch, and always taking yarn next to you to next stitch; make this for bottom of beading, as well, and the latter will be entirely covered. Run an elastic band or tape in the beading, between the 2 triple trebles, and make a bow of ribbon for instep of the same shade as the yarn.
Baby's Bootees
A pair of dainty bootees makes a nice gift for baby, and is appreciated scarcely less by baby's mamma. Two very pretty styles are given, one in pink and white, the accepted colors for a girlie, the other in blue and white—blue being the color usually chosen for a little son's belongings.[Transcriber's Note: The original had blue and pink reversed in the above paragraph.]
Commencing with white Saxony, make a chain of 11 stitches, turn.
NO. 1. 1.—Miss 1 stitch, a double in each of 10 stitches, turn.
2. Chain 1, a double in each of 10 doubles, taking up the back loop of stitch to form a rib, turn.
Repeat 2d row until you have 8 ribs; at the end of the last row chain 11, turn, miss 1, a double in each of 10 stitches of chain and in 10 doubles, chain 1, turn, and continue, making 4 of the long ribs, then, working only on the 10 doubles, make 8 more short ribs, and join at the back of the leg to the foundation chain, taking into each stitch.
For the upper part of leg:
1. Chain 3, and make trebles all around, 38 in all, joining to top of 3 chain.
2. Draw out the stitch on needle, pull up a loop through 1st and 3d stitches of preceding row, take up the yarn, and draw through the 3 loops on the needle at once, chain 1 to close the cluster, * draw up a loop in same place with last and another in 3d stitch, work off as before and repeat around.
3. Draw out the stitch on needle, take a loop in the space before pineapple-stitch of last row and another in the space after, work off as before, take a loop in same space as before, another in next space, work off, and repeat.
4. Like 3d row, with blue.
5, 6. Like 3d row, with white.
7. With blue, a double in each stitch.
8. With white, chain 3, a treble in each double, join.
9. With blue, make 1 double in 1st stitch, chain 3, 1 double in same stitch, miss 1; repeat. Fasten off neatly.
For the foot:
1. With blue make a double in each stitch all around bottom of leg and instep.
2. A double in each double, taking up both veins of stitch to avoid a rib.
3, 4. Same as 2d row, with white.
5, 6. Same as 2d row, with blue.
7, 8, 9, 10. Same as 2d row, with white, joining the last row with single crochet on the wrong side. Finish with cord and tassels or with ribbon, run in and out the 1st row of trebles on upper part of leg.
* * * * *
NO. 2. Using the white yarn make a chain of 37 stitches, join.
1. Chain 3, a treble in each stitch, join.
2, 3. With pink, make a double in each stitch, join. Repeat 1st, 2d and 3d rows 3 times, which will give you 4 ribs each of pink and white.
13. Chain 3, with white, miss 1st stitch of last row, make a treble in next, then a treble back in 1st stitch, forming a crossed treble; repeat around, join.
14. With pink, a double in a stitch, chain 3; repeat. Fasten off securely.
For the foot:
1. With white, fasten in the 17th treble from back of leg, draw up a loop through each of 6 stitches, keeping all on needle; take up yarn and draw through 1st stitch, * again draw through 2, and repeat until all are worked off; now insert hook under the little upright bar formed by working off the last row, draw up a loop and repeat until you have again the number of loops on needle; continue until you have 9 rows of afghan-stitch.
Again using white, fasten at back of leg and make a double in each stitch of leg and around the instep; make 4 more rows of doubles, 1 in each stitch of preceding row, taking up both loops to avoid a rib, then 5 rows of pink in the same way, joining the last row as before directed. Finish with cord and tassels or ribbon, run in the 4th row of trebles around top of bootee.
A Sweater and Cap for Dolly
One skein of white and blue Saxony will be sufficient for two sets; use a crochet-hook that will carry the wool easily. Commence the sweater with a chain of 60 stitches.
1. A double in each stitch of chain, turn.
2. A treble and a double in back of double of last row (chain 3 for 1st treble of the row), miss 1 double; repeat to end of row, turn.
3. A treble and a double taken between treble and double of last row; repeat.
4. A double in back of each stitch of last row (chain 1 for 1st double).
5. Same as 4th row. This completes the portion over the shoulder.
On one half the length repeat the 2d, 3d, 4th, 5th and again the 2d row which completes one front. Work in the same way on the other half of length, which brings you to the center of the back and makes half of the sweater. Make the other half to correspond, and join neatly down center of back. Fold and join under the arms, making the armscye of desired size.
For the sleeve: Make a chain of 15 stitches, and repeat from 1st to 5th row; then repeat from 2d to 5th row twice, and join last row to 1st; also crochet sleeve in the armscye.
Entirely around the sweater make 4 rows of double crochet with blue yarn, working in both veins of stitch to avoid a rib, and putting 3 stitches in 1 at corners to turn smoothly. After working 2 rows of left front make the buttonholes, separated by 8 doubles, by chain 3, miss 3; then in next row make a double also in each stitch of chain.
Finish bottom of sleeves in same way, missing every 2d stitch in 1st row to draw in the cuff a little. Sew on pearl buttons to match the buttonholes.
Cap: Chain 5, join to form a ring.
1. Chain 3, (yarn over hook, insert hook in ring, take up yarn and draw through) twice, yarn over and draw through all the loops on needle, chain 1 to close the "bean," make 6 more bean-stitches in ring, and join to top of 1st.
2. Chain 3, and make a bean in top of each of last row, and between each 2; join.
3. Chain 3, a bean-stitch between each 2 of last row, widening every 3d or 4th by making a bean in top of bean.
4, 5. Same as 3d row, widening every 5th bean, or as necessary in order to keep the shape.
Make 5 more rows without widening, which completes the body of cap.
For the border, turn cap wrong side out and tie in the blue yarn, working on the wrong side to form the band so that it will turn up on the right side.
1. Chain 3, draw a loop through 2d and 3d stitches from hook, also through next 2 stitches of last row of cap, * take up wool and draw through all the stitches on needle, chain 1 to close the star, draw up a loop through eye of star last made, under the 1 chain, another through back part of last loop of preceding star, and 2 loops in next 2 stitches; repeat from *, and continue until you have made 4 rows of star-stitch. Fasten off neatly.
Make a tassel of the colored (blue) yarn, and attach to top of cap by a crocheted cord.
This set will make a charming gift for a little girl. By using fourfold Germantown the sweater will be large enough for the small mother herself to wear, or it may be easily enlarged by using the heavier wool and working in the same pattern on a longer foundation-chain. The cap may also be made large enough for a child by adding to the number of bean-stitches in each row.
Child's Cap in Bean-Stitch
Materials required are one skein of cream-white Shetland floss and a little light-blue Saxony yarn, with medium-sized bone hook. Chain 5, join.
1. Draw up loop one-fourth inch long, yarn over, hook in ring, draw loop through, over and draw through 3 loops now on needle, * chain 1, draw up a loop in ring, over, draw up another loop in ring, over, draw through all 4 loops; repeat to make 4 more bean-stitches, 6 in all, with 1 chain between, and join last 1 chain to top of 1st stitch.
2. Draw loop up long over 1st bean-stitch, over, hook through same stitch, draw through, over and draw through all the loops; this is 1st stitch of each row. Chain 1, a bean-stitch in following space, chain 1, bean-stitch in bean-stitch; repeat around, join.
3. Bean-stitch in 1st stitch, in each space and every 3d bean-stitch, with 1 chain between, join.
4. Same as 3d row, with bean-stitch over every 4th bean-stitch.
5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10. Same as 4th row, with an additional space between widenings; in 5th row make a bean-stitch in every 5th, and so on, with bean-stitch in every 10th, in 10th row.
11, 12, 13. Bean-stitch in each space.
14. Change to double crochet for head-band, making a double in each stitch.
15, 16, 17, 18, 19. A double in each double, working in both veins of stitch; narrow twice in each row.
20, 21. Double in each double.
22. A bean-stitch in each 2d double, 1 chain between.
23, 24, 25, 26, 27. Bean-stitch in each space; fasten off white yarn.
28. Fasten blue yarn in space, chain 4, draw up a loop in 2d chain from hook, 1 in 3d and 1 in 4th, all rather long loops, over, draw through all 4 loops, chain 1, fasten in next space with a single, and repeat. This makes a small, pointed scallop and finishes edge of cap.
For the button: Using the blue yarn, chain 3, 8 doubles in 2d stitch of chain. Continue around and around without joining, 1st row with 2 doubles in each stitch, then widen sufficiently to keep the work flat until nearly as large as the button you wish to cover; after one or two more rounds, decrease by working off 3 loops instead of 2, slip the button in and continue, keeping the work tight over the button until you have about half of space covered; then break the yarn, draw up with needle and sew to center of crown.
This cap is large enough for a little boy or girl of three years, and may be easily enlarged. The border may be turned down over the ears for extra warmth.
Child's Crocheted Hood
Use eiderdown or very heavy Germantown worsted, with a hook large enough to carry the wool without fraying. Chain 4 stitches, join.
1. Chain 3, draw a loop through 2d and 3d stitches of chain, and 2 through the ring; take up wool and work off all together, chain 1 to close the star, draw a loop through eye of star (under 1 chain just made), another through back part of last loop, and 2 in ring; work off as before, and repeat until you have made 6 stars; join.
2. Make 12 stars in the row, taking the 4th loop of each star in same stitch with last stitch of preceding star, and 5th in stitch ahead, so that you get 2 stars over each star of preceding row.
3. Make 16 stars, widening 4 times.
4, 5, 6. Leave 4 stars for back of neck and work back and forth for 3 rows. Break wool at end of each row and fasten in at beginning, so the stars will come on the right side; chain 3, draw 2 loops through 2d and 3d stitches of chain, then proceed as usual.
Make 4 rows of doubles around the lower edge, then a row of stars entirely around the hood, widening by putting an extra star at each corner of front to prevent drawing.
For the rosette: Chain 3, join; chain 7, * a double treble in ring, chain 3, repeat from * 6 times, and join to 4th of 7 chain. Run ribbon in and out the spaces, sew the rosette in place, and finish with ties of ribbon.
This hood is easily enlarged, by following general directions, and any stitch, plain or fancy, may be used for it.
Child's Crocheted Hood in Wedge-Stitch
Materials required are one and one-half hanks of 4-fold Germantown wool, white, or any preferred color, and a bone crochet-hook of medium size. While intended for a small child, this hood may be very easily enlarged to fit any head.
Chain 4 stitches with white wool, join.
1. Chain 3 for a treble, 19 trebles in ring, join.
2. Draw up a loop, insert hook in 1st stitch, * wool over, draw up a loop, wool over, hook in next stitch, over, draw up a loop, wool over, draw through all the loops on hook, chain 1, insert hook in same stitch, and repeat from * until there are 19 wedge-stitches in the round.
3. Draw up loop, insert hook in 1st space, draw up a loop, over, insert hook in next space, draw up a loop, over, draw through all loops on the needle, chain 1, * insert hook in same space, draw up a loop, over, insert hook in next space, draw up a loop, over, draw through all stitches on needle, chain 1, and repeat, widening by putting 2 stitches in every 3d of previous round.
4. Widen in every 5th stitch.
5. Plain, that is, without widening.
6. Widen every 3d stitch.
7, 8, 9. Plain.
10. Plain to within 7 stitches of the end; break wool and fasten in at other end again.
11, 12, 13, 14, 15. Same as 10th row, leaving the 7 stitches for back of neck.
16. Fasten in, chain 3, and work a treble in every stitch. It is very pretty to use a thread of ice-wool with the Germantown when making the border.
17, 18. A double in each stitch around bottom or neck of hood.
19, 20, 21, 22, 23. A double in each stitch across front, working in both veins of stitch.
Turn back the border, finish with a bow of ribbon at back, a rosette on top, and ribbon ties.
To make the hood larger you have but to continue widening the crown until of proper size, which will make the front proportionally longer and leave the neck wider. Any fancy stitch may be used in the same way, following the general directions given.
Child's Toque in Wedge-Stitch
This pretty cap, which will fit a girl of ten to fourteen years, and is easily enlarged to any desired size, requires five hanks of eiderdown-wool. If desired, two colors may be used, say white for cap and blue for the turnover or border. It is worked in wedge-stitch, and Germantown wool may be used by making more stitches. Use a bone hook of suitable size, that is, one which will carry the wool easily without catching in it. Make a chain of 4 stitches and join.
1. Draw out the loop, insert hook in ring, draw up a loop, wool over, insert hook in ring, draw up another loop, wool over, draw through all the loops on needle, chain 1, and repeat until you have 11 wedge-stitches in the ring; join.
2. Draw up loop, insert hook in 1st space, draw up a loop, wool over, hook in next space, draw up a loop, wool over, draw through all loops on needle, chain 1, * hook in same space, draw up a loop, wool over, hook in next space, draw up a loop, wool over, draw through all on hook, chain 1, and repeat from *, widening by making an extra stitch in every other stitch of last round.
3. Widen in every 3d stitch.
4. Widen in every 6th stitch.
Work six times around plain, that is, without widening; then if color is used for the turnover join it in and work once around, turn the work so that the border will be right side out when turned up, and work around five times more. Make a chain of 18 or 20 stitches, according to length you wish the tassel, wind the wool over four fingers, or a card five inches wide, 20 times, slip off, tie tightly near one end to form the head of tassel, and cut open the other end.
* * * * *
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How To Secure Your Yarn Without Cost
The women of America are knitting as never before. In the social set, no gathering can be fashionable that does not tolerate knitting; the business woman must needs knit on the car to and from her work; while to the busy housewife no duty is so imperative as to exclude knitting from the daily routine. It almost seems as if the women of America—all women, rich and poor alike—were devoting their united efforts to one vast universal consecration—the comfort of our boys over there.
There is just one drawback to the fulfilment of this noble ambition that every woman in America shall devote every spare moment to the knitting of warm sweaters, stockings, and other comforts for the boys in khaki, and that is—the tremendously high price of worsted yarns. We can all squeeze out a little more time but we can none of us spend more money than we have, and in these times the calls for cash donations are urgent and not infrequent. But now you can have all the yarn that you will use without spending any money. A little more time is now the only essential to your doing your bit for the comfort of those who are offering their all for our safety. You who have been unable to knit as much as you have wanted to, because you have lacked the means to do with, need feel that drawback no longer. Needlecraft has provided
An assured supply of Knitting-Worsted in the Regulation Blue, Gray and Khaki which you can secure without cost by getting subscriptions to Needlecraft on the following liberal terms:
Send us only 10 yearly subscriptions to Needlecraft at our regular subscription-price of 35 cents each, and we will send each subscriber this paper one year, and we will send you, prepaid, one one-quarter-pound skein of Knitting-Worsted (Premium No. 6395). (We reserve the right to provide an equal weight in balls instead of skeins if necessary.)
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