With regard to oil-finishes, viz., spirit-varnish or oil-varnish, shellac is thought by many to be the best for fine work; but others think differently. We may say of shellac that it will finish up into any degree of polish, and while it will not retain a French polish long in this climate, it will replenish easier and cheaper than any other finish, and continue to improve under each application. For a common finish, however, oil preparation is as good as shellac, and even for a fine finish it is only second to shellac, if made of a hard gum. On common finish, too, the oil will wear better than shellac in stock or on storage, so far as preserving its freshness is concerned.

The cost of oil-finish is governed chiefly by the amount of labour expended on it. A suite of walnut furniture can be well rubbed with sand-paper in two hours, or even less; while two weeks could be profitably employed in rubbing another suite with pumice and water.

Black Walnut Finishing.—The fashionable finish for black walnut work, particularly chamber sets, is what is known to the trade as the "dead-oil finish." It is admired, perhaps, because it has a gloss, rather than a shine of the varnish stamp. There is no more labour required upon it than upon a bright finish, but the process of manipulation is different, and harder to the fingers.

It should be premised that the walnut work of the day bears upon its surface, to a greater or less extent, raised panels covered with French burl veneer. And upon this fact largely depends the beauty of the production. And the endeavour is to so finish the article that there shall be a contrast between the panel and the groundwork on which it is placed. In other words, the former should be of a light colour, while the latter is of a darker shade. In that view the palest shellac should be used on the panels, and darker pieces, liver coloured, etc., on the body of the work. The darker grades of shellac are the cheaper, and will answer for the bulk of the work, but the clearest only for the panels.

In commencing to finish a job direct from the cabinet-maker's hand, rough and innocent of sand-paper, first cover the panels with a coat of shellac to prevent the oil in the filling from colouring them dark. Next, cover the body of the work with a wood filling composed of whiting and plaster of Paris, mixed with japan, benzine, and raw linseed-oil, or the lubricating oil made from petroleum; the whole covered with umber, to which, in the rare cases when a reddish shade is wanted, Venetian red is also added. This filling is then rubbed off with cloths, and by this process tends to close up the grain of the wood and produce an even surface. More or less time should be allowed after each of the several steps in the finishing process for the work to dry and harden, though much less is required in working with shellac than with varnishes composed of turpentine, oil, and gums. But the time that should be allowed is often lessened by the desire to get the work through as soon as possible, so that no standard can be set up as to the number of hours required between each of the several processes. It would be well if twelve hours intervened, but if work to which ten days could well be devoted must be hurried through in three, obviously the processes must follow each other in a corresponding haste.

A coating of shellac is then given the whole work, light on the panels and dark on the body work, and when it has dried and hardened, which it does very soon, it may be rubbed down. This process of "rubbing down" should be done evenly and carefully, so as not to rub through the shellac at any point, and be done with the finer grades of sand-paper for the cheaper class of work, particularly at first, but at a later period of the process, and for the better class of articles in all cases, hair-cloth should be used, the material for the "rubbing down" being pumice-stone moistened with raw linseed-oil for the best work, and the lubricating oil, before mentioned, for cheaper work, or the covered parts of the better grades. This rubbing down involves labour, wear of fingers and finger-nails, and is carried on with an ordinary bit of hair-cloth, the smooth surface next the wood, and not made in any particular shape, but as a wad, ball, or otherwise. In the corners and crevices where the hair-cloth will not enter it will be necessary to use sand-paper of the finest grades, and worn pieces only.

Three coats of shellac are put on, followed each time by this rubbing-down process, each one giving the work a smoother feeling and a more perfect appearance. Afterwards, to complete the whole, a coating of japan thinned with benzine is applied, which gives to the work a clean appearance and the dead glossy finish.

There is this objection to the above style of finish, that the japan catches all the dust which touches it, and holds it permanently, so that many of the best workmen will not have work finished in this way for their own private houses, preferring the brighter look given by shellac and varnish without rubbing down the last coat, believing that the work can be kept much cleaner.

Finishing Veneered Panels, etc.—The large oval panels of desks, etc., covered with French veneer, are generally taken out and finished by themselves. The process is similar to that above given, with successive coats of shellac and varnish, and the oil and pumice-stone rubbing down; but the final part of this latter process is a rubbing down with rotten-stone; then the merest trifle of sweet-oil is applied all over the surface and wiped off. (See Rosewood, etc., farther on.)

For Light Woods (Dead Finish).—Apply two or three coats of white shellac; rub down with pumice and raw linseed-oil, and clean off well with rags; use varnish-polish on the panels.

Another.—Finish as in the previous recipe. For a flowing coat of varnish-finish apply one flowing coat of light amber varnish. If a varnish-polish is desired, apply three coats of Zanzibar polishing varnish. Rub down and polish, and the result will be a splendid finish.

Mahogany or Cherry Wood.—For shellac dead finish apply two coats of yellow shellac. Rub down with pumice and raw linseed-oil. If a varnish-finish is desired, apply a flowing coat of light amber varnish or shellac thus rubbed. The panels should receive two coats of Zanzibar polishing varnish.

Oak.—For a dead finish give three coats of shellac, two-thirds of white and one-third of yellow, mixed. Rub down with pumice and raw linseed-oil. For a cheap varnish-finish give one flowing coat of light amber varnish in the shellac, rubbed as directed. Varnish-polish the panels.

Rosewood, Coromandel, or Kingwood (a Bright Finish).—Apply two thin coats of shellac, sand-papering each coat; then apply three or four coats of Zanzibar polishing varnish, laying it on thin, and giving it sufficient time to dry thoroughly. When it is perfectly hard, rub down with pumice and water. Polish with rotten-stone to a fine lustre, clean up with sweet-oil, and vapour up the oil with a damp alcohol rag. The result is a splendid mirror-like polish. This is the method employed in polishing pianofortes in America.

Walnut.—For a cheap finish, apply one coat of yellow shellac. When dry, sand-paper down. Apply with brush; rub in well; clean off with rags. This gives a very fair finish.

For a medium dead finish apply two or three coats of yellow shellac. When dry, rub down with pumice and raw linseed-oil; clean up well; varnish-polish the panels.

For finish. Before using the above filling, give the work one coat of white shellac. When dry, sand-paper down, and apply the above filling. Give two coats of white shellac; rub down with pumice and raw linseed-oil; clean up well with brown japan and spirits of turpentine, mixed. Wipe off. This is a good imitation of wax-finish; it is waterproof, and will not spot as wax-finish does. The panels are to be varnished-polished. This is to be used with the improved filling No. 2.

For finish. Apply three coats of yellow shellac; rub down with pumice and raw linseed-oil; clean off well. Varnish-polish the panels. Use this with the oil colour No. 3.

Finishing Cheap Work.—With One Coat of Varnish.—Give the work a coat of boiled linseed-oil; immediately sprinkle dry whiting upon it, and rub it well in with tow all over the surface. The whiting absorbs the oil and completely fills the pores of the wood. For black walnut add a little dry burnt umber. For mahogany or cherry add a little Venetian red, according to the colour of the wood. The application can be made to turned work while in motion in the lathe. Clean off well with rags. The work can then be finished with a single coat of varnish, and for cheap work makes a very good finish.

For varnishing large surfaces, a two-inch oval varnish brush is to be used first to lay out the varnish, and then a two-inch flat badger flowing-brush for a softener. The latter lays down moats and bubbles left by the large brush. A perfectly smooth glass-like surface is thus obtained. When not in use, these tools should be put into a pot containing raw linseed-oil and spirits of turpentine. This keeps them in a better working condition than if they are kept in varnish, making them clean and soft. Standing in varnish they congeal and become hard as the spirit evaporates from the varnish. For shellacing a large surface use a two-inch bristle brush; for small work, such as carvings and mouldings, use a one-and-a-half inch flat brush. These brushes when not in use should be taken from the various pots and deposited in an earthen pot sufficiently large to hold all the shellac brushes used in the shop. Put in enough of raw linseed-oil and thin shellac to cover the bristles of the brushes. Kept in this manner, they will remain clean and elastic, and will wear much longer.

Wax Finishing.—Take 1/2 gall. of turpentine, 11/2 lb. yellow beeswax, 1 lb. white beeswax, 1/2 lb. white rosin. Pulverise the rosin, and shave the wax into fine shavings. Put the whole into the turpentine, and dissolve it cold. If dissolved by a fire-heat, the vitality of the wax is destroyed. When it is thoroughly dissolved, mix well and apply with a stiff brush. Rub well in, and clean off with rags. When dry, it is ready for shellac or varnish as may be desired.

A Varnish Polish.—Take 10 oz. gum shellac, 1 oz. gum sandarach, 1 drachm Venice turpentine, 1 gall. alcohol. Put the mixture into a jug for a day or two, shaking occasionally. When dissolved it is ready for use. Apply a few coats. Polish by rubbing smooth.

For the commonest kind of work in black walnut a very cheap polish can be made in the following manner: Take 1 gall. of turpentine, 2 lb. pulverised asphaltum, 1 qt. boiled linseed-oil, 2 oz. Venetian red. Put the mixture in a warm place and shake occasionally. When it is dissolved, strain and apply to the wood with a stiff brush. Rub well with cloth when dry. Then take 1 pt. of thin shellac, 1/2 pt. boiled linseed-oil. Shake it well before using. Apply with cloth, rubbing briskly, and you will have a fine polish.

With Copal or Zanzibar Varnish.—As a substitute for filling, the wood may receive one coat of native coal-oil, thinned with benzine-spirits; then apply one coat of shellac, and follow with varnish, as desired. The time is not far distant when manufacturers must and will use varnish for the finishing of all kinds of furniture on account of the high price of shellac. Furniture finished in the last-named method may be rubbed with either water or oil. Water has a tendency to harden varnish, while oil softens it. If water is used there will be a saving of oil and rags. In the other case shellac, when rubbed with oil, should be cleaned with japan. This removes the greasy and cloudy appearance which is left after the rubbing with oil, and the work will have a clean, dry, and brighter appearance than otherwise.

We suggest another idea for finishing black walnut for a cheap or a medium class of work. In the first place, fill the pores of the wood, and apply one thin coat of shellac to hold the filling in the pores of the wood. Let this stand one day; sand-paper down with fine paper, then with a brush apply a coat of coach japan. Rub well, and clean off with rags. Let this stand one day to dry, then, with some sand-paper that has been used before, take off the moats from the japan. Go over the whole surface with a soft rag saturated with japan; wipe and clean off carefully, and the job is finished. This, though a cheap finish, is a good one for this class of work.

We give one more method of finishing black walnut, that is, with boiled linseed-oil only, and there is no other way of obtaining a genuine oil-finish. Sand-paper the wood down smoothly; apply a coat of boiled linseed-oil over the whole surface; sand-paper well, and clean up dry with rags; let it stand one day to dry, then apply one more coat of oil; rub well in with rags, but do not use sand-paper on this coat. Apply three, four, or more coats in the same way. When the work has received the last coat of oil and is dry, sand-paper down with old paper. Then clean up with the best coach japan with rags, and let the work stand one day to dry. The panels are to be varnish-polished the same as other wood. The work is then finished, and ready for the warerooms.

This method takes a longer time than finishing with either varnish or shellac; but the cost is less both for materials and for labour, the workman being able to go over a greater surface in the same time. The work will stand longer, and the method gives a rich and close finish, bringing out the figure and rich colour of the wood better than in any other method of finishing. It does not cost so much as shellac finish; it only requires a little more time for drying between the coats of oil. In finishing in varnish or shellac, to get the body or surface for polishing three or four coats are frequently applied, which is liable to produce a dull cloudy appearance. For this reason, and having in view the high and increasing price of stock, it seems to us that this really superior method of finishing in oil must take the place of shellac and varnish-finish in good work.

Polishing Varnish.—This is certainly a tedious process, and considered by many a matter of difficulty. The following is the mode of procedure: Put two ounces of powdered tripoli into an earthen pot or basin, with water sufficient to cover it; then, with a piece of fine flannel four times doubled, laid over a piece of cork rubber, proceed to polish your varnish, always wetting it well with the tripoli and water. You will know when the process is complete by wiping a part of the work with a sponge and observing whether there is a fair and even gloss. Clean off with a bit of mutton suet and fine flour. Be careful not to rub the work too hard, or longer than is necessary to make the face perfectly smooth and even. Some workmen polish with rotten-stone, others with putty-powder, and others with common whiting and water; but tripoli, we think, will be found to answer best.

An American Polish Reviver.—Take of olive-oil 1 lb., of rectified oil of amber 1 lb., spirits of turpentine 1 lb., oil of lavender 1 oz., tincture of alkanet-root 1/2 oz. Saturate a piece of cotton batting with this polish, and apply it to the wood; then, with soft and dry cotton rags, rub well and wipe off dry. This will make old furniture in private dwellings, or that which has been shop-worn in warerooms, look as well as when first finished. The articles should be put into a jar or jug, well mixed, and afterwards kept tightly corked.

This is a valuable recipe, and is not known, the writer believes, outside of his practice.



CHAPTER X.

MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES.

Oil Polish.—One quart of cold-drawn linseed-oil to be simmered (not boiled) for ten minutes, and strained through flannel; then add one-eighth part of spirits of turpentine: to be applied daily with soft linen rags, and rubbed off lightly; each time the oil is applied the surface should be previously washed with cold water, so as to remove any dirt or dust. This method of polishing is particularly useful for dining-table tops; it will in about six weeks produce a polish so durable as to resist boiling water or hot dishes, and be like a mirror for brilliancy.

Wax Polish.—Eight ounces of beeswax, 2 oz. of resin, and 1/2 oz. of Venetian turpentine, to be melted over a slow fire; the mass, when quite melted, is poured into a sufficiently large stone-ware pot, and while it is still warm 6 oz. of rectified turpentine are stirred in. After the lapse of twenty-four hours the mass will have assumed the consistency of soft butter, and is ready for use. A small portion of the polish is taken up with a woollen rag and rubbed over the surface of the work—at first gently, then more strongly. When the polish is uniformly laid on, the surface is once more rubbed lightly and quickly with a fresh clean rag to produce a gloss.

Waterproof French Polish.—Take 2 oz. gum benjamin, 1/2 oz. gum sandarach, 1/2 oz. gum anime, 11/2 oz. gum benzoin, and 1 pt. alcohol. Mix in a closely-stoppered bottle, and put in a warm place till the gums are well dissolved. Then strain off, and add 1/4 gill of poppy-oil. Shake well together, and it is ready for use.

A Varnish for Musical Instruments.—Take one gallon of alcohol, 1 lb. gum sandarach, 1/2 lb. gum mastic, 2 lbs. best white resin, 3 lbs. gum benzoin; cut the gums cold. When they are thoroughly dissolved, strain the mixture through fine muslin, and bottle for use; keep the bottle tightly corked. This is a beautiful varnish for violins and other musical instruments of wood, and for fancy articles, such as those of inlaid work. It is also well adapted for panel-work, and all kinds of cabinet furniture. There is required only one flowing coat, and it produces a very fine mirror-like surface. Apply this varnish with a flat camel's-hair or sable brush. In an hour after application the surface is perfectly dry.

French Varnish for Cabinet-work.—Take of shellac 11/2 oz. gum mastic and gum sandarach, of each 1/2 oz., spirit of wine by weight 20 oz. The gums to be first dissolved in the spirit, and lastly the shellac. This may be best effected by means of the water-bath. Place a loosely-corked bottle containing the mixture in a vessel of warm water of a temperature below the boiling point, and let it remain until the gums are dissolved. Should evaporation take place, an equal quantity to the spirit of wine so lost must be replaced till the mixture settles, then pour off the clear liquid for use, leaving the impurities behind; but do not filter it. Greater hardness may be given to the varnish by increasing the quantity of shellac, which may be done to the amount of one-twelfth of the lac to eleven-twelfths of spirit. But in this latter proportion the varnish loses its transparency in some degree, and must be laid on in very small quantities at a time.

Mastic Varnish.—Mastic should be dissolved in oil of turpentine, in close glass vessels, by means of a gentle heat. This varnish is extensively used in transparencies, etc.

Cabinet-maker's Varnish.—Take 5 lbs. very pale gum shellac, 7 oz. gum mastic, 1 gallon alcohol. Dissolve in a cold atmosphere with frequent stirring.

Amber Varnish.—This is a most difficult varnish to make. It is usually prepared by roasting the amber and adding hot linseed-oil, after which turpentine can be mixed if required. But for a small quantity, dissolve the broken amber, without heat, in the smallest possible quantity of chloroform or pure benzine. Heat the linseed-oil, remove it from the fire, and pour in the amber solution, stirring all the time. Then add the turpentine. If not quite clear, heat again, using the utmost caution.

Colourless Varnish with Copal.—To prepare this varnish the copal must be picked; each piece is broken, and a drop of rosemary-oil poured on it. Those pieces which, on contact with the oil, become soft are the ones used. The pieces being selected, they are ground and passed through a sieve, being reduced to a fine powder. It is then placed in a glass, and a corresponding volume of rosemary-oil poured over it; the mixture is then stirred for a few minutes until it is transformed into a thick liquor. It is then left to rest for two hours, when a few drops of rectified alcohol are added, and intimately mixed. Repeat the operation until the varnish is of a sufficient consistency; leave the rest for a few days, and decant the clear. This varnish can be applied to wood and metals (Journal of Applied Chemistry).

Seedlac Varnish.—Wash 3 oz. of seedlac in several waters; dry it and powder it coarsely. Dissolve it in one pint of rectified spirits of wine; submit it to gentle heat, shaking it as often as convenient, until it appears dissolved. Pour off the clear part, and strain the remainder.

Patent Varnish for Wood or Canvas.—Take 1 gallon spirits of turpentine, 21/4 lbs. asphaltum. Put them into an iron kettle on a stove, and dissolve the gum by heat. When it is dissolved and a little cool, add 1 pint copal varnish and 1 pint boiled linseed-oil. When entirely cool it is ready for use. For a perfect black add a little lamp-black.

Copal Varnish.—Dissolve the copal, broken in pieces, in linseed-oil, by digestion, the heat being almost sufficient to boil the oil. The oil should be made drying by the addition of quick-lime. This makes a beautiful transparent varnish. It should be diluted with oil of turpentine; a very small quantity of copal, in proportion to the oil, will be found sufficient.

Carriage Varnish.—Take 19 oz. gum sandarach, 91/2 oz. orange shellac, 121/2 oz. white resin, 18 oz. turpentine, 5 pints alcohol. Dissolve and strain. Use for the internal parts of carriages and similar purposes. This varnish dries in ten minutes.

Transparent Varnish.—Take 1 gallon alcohol, 2 lbs. gum sandarach, 1/2 lb. gum mastic. Place them in a tin can. Cork tight and shake frequently, placing the can in a warm place. When dissolved it is ready for use.

Crystal Varnish for Maps, etc.—Mix together 1 oz. Canada balsam and 2 oz. spirits of turpentine. Before applying this varnish to a drawing or a painting in water-colours the paper should be placed on a stretcher, sized with a thin solution of isinglass in water, and dried. Apply the varnish with a soft camel's-hair brush.

A Black Varnish.—Mix a small quantity of gas-black with the brown hard varnish previously mentioned. The black can be obtained by boiling a pot over a gas-burner, so that it almost touches the burner, when a fine jet-black will form at the bottom, which remove and mix with the varnish, and apply with a brush.

A Black Polish can be made in the same way: after wetting the rubber, just touch it with the black. Place the linen cover over, touch it with oil, and it is ready for work.

Varnish for Iron.—Take 2 lbs. pulverised gum asphaltum, 1/4 lb. gum benzoin, 1 gallon spirits of turpentine. To make this varnish quickly, keep in a warm place, and shake often till it is dissolved. Shade to suit with finely-ground ivory-black. Apply with a brush. This varnish should be used on iron-work exposed to the weather. It is also well adapted for inside work, such as iron furniture, where a handsome polish is desired.

Varnish for Tools.—Take 2 oz. tallow, 1 oz. resin; melt together, and strain while hot to remove the specks which are in the resin. Apply a slight coat on the tools with a brush, and it will keep off the rust for any length of time.

To Make Labels Adhere to a Polished Surface.—Brush the back of a label over with thin varnish or polish, and press down with a soft rag; this must be done quickly, as the polish soon becomes dry. This is the way labels are put on pianofortes, and also the paper imitation of fancy woods on polished pine-work.

How to Remove French Polish or Varnish from Old Work.—Cleaning off old work for re-polishing or varnishing is usually found difficult, and to occupy much time if only the scraper and glass-paper be used. It can be easily accomplished in a very short time by washing the surface with liquid ammonia, applied with a piece of rag; the polish will peel off like a skin, and leave the wood quite bare. In carvings or turned work, after applying the ammonia, use a hard brush to remove the varnish. Unadulterated spirits of wine used in a tepid state will answer the same purpose.

Colouring for Carcase Work.—In the best class of cabinet-work all the inside work—such as carcase backs, shelves, etc.—is made of good materials, such as wainscot, soft mahogany, Havannah cedar, or American walnut; but for second-class work, pine or white deal is used instead, and coloured.

The colouring matter used should match with the exterior wood. For mahogany take 1/2 lb. of ground yellow ochre to a quart of water, and add about a tablespoonful of Venetian red—a very small quantity of red in proportion to the yellow is sufficient for mahogany—and a piece of glue about the size of a walnut; the whole to be well stirred and boiled. Brush over while hot, and immediately rub off with soft shavings or a sponge. For the antique hues of old wainscot mix equal parts of burnt umber and brown ochre. For new oak, bird's-eye maple, birch, satin-wood, or any similar light yellowish woods, whiting or white-lead, tinted with orange chrome, or by yellow ochre and a little size. For walnut, brown umber, glue size, and water; or by burnt umber very moderately modified with yellow ochre. For rosewood, Venetian red tinted with lamp-black. For ebony, ivory-black; but for the common ebonised work lamp-black is generally used.

When the colouring is dry, it should be rubbed down with a piece of worn fine glass-paper, and polished with beeswax rubbed on a very hard brush—a worn-out scrubbing-brush is as good as anything—or it can be well rubbed with Dutch rush. In polishing always rub the way of the grain. The cheap work seldom gets more than a coat of colour rubbed off with shavings.

Cheap but Valuable Stain for the Sap of Black Walnut.—Take 1 gallon of strong vinegar, 1 lb. dry burnt umber, 1/2 lb. fine rose-pink, 1/2 lb. dry burnt Vandyke brown. Put them into a jug and mix them well; let the mixture stand one day, and it will then be ready for use. Apply this stain to the sap with a piece of fine sponge; it will dry in half an hour. The whole piece is then ready for the filling process. When completed, the stained part cannot be detected even by those who have performed the work. This recipe is of value, as by it wood of poor quality and mostly of sap can be used with good effect.

Polish for Removing Stains, etc., from Furniture (American).—Take 1/2 pint alcohol, 1/4 oz. pulverised resin, 1/4 oz. gum shellac, 1/2 pint boiled linseed-oil. Shake the mixture well, and apply it with a sponge, brush, or cotton flannel, rubbing well after the application.

Walnut Stain to be used on Pine and White-wood.—Take 1 gallon of very thin sized shellac; add 1 lb. of dry burnt umber, 1 lb. of dry burnt sienna, and 1/4 lb. of lamp-black. Put these articles into a jug, and shake frequently until they are mixed. Apply one coat with a brush. When the work is dry, sand-paper down with fine paper, and apply one coat of shellac or cheap varnish. It will then be a good imitation of solid walnut, and will be adapted for the back-boards of mirror-frames, for the backside and inside of case-work, and for similar work.

Rosewood Stain.—Take 1 lb. of logwood chips, 1/2 lb. of red-sanders, 1/2 gallon of water. Boil over a fire until the full strength is obtained. Apply the mixture, while hot, to the wood with a brush. Use one or two coats to obtain a strong red colour. Then take 1 gallon of spirits of turpentine and 2 lb. of asphaltum. Dissolve in an iron kettle on a stove, stirring constantly. Apply with a brush over the red stain, to imitate rosewood. To make a perfect black, add a little lamp-black. The addition of a small quantity of varnish with the turpentine will improve it. This stain applied to birchwood gives as good an imitation of rosewood as on black walnut, the shade on the birch being a little brighter.

Rosewood Stain for Cane Work, etc.—Take 1 gallon alcohol, 1 lb. red-sanders, 1 lb. dragon's blood, 1 lb. extract logwood, 1/2 lb. gum shellac. Put the mixture into a jug, and steep well till it obtains its full strength. Then strain, and it will be ready for use. Apply with brush, giving one, two, or more coats, according to the depth of colour desired. Then give one or more coats of varnish. This stain is suitable for use on cane, willow, or reed work, and produces a good imitation of rosewood.

French Polish Reviver.—This recipe will be found a valuable one. If the work is sweated and dirty, make it tolerably wet, and let it stand a few minutes; then rub off and polish with a soft rag. It is important that the ingredients should be mixed in a bottle in the order as given: Vinegar, 1 gill; methylated spirit, 1 gill; linseed-oil, 1/2 pint; butter of antimony (poison), 1 oz. Raw linseed-oil, moderately thinned with turpentine or spirits of wine, will also make a good reviver. Old furniture, or furniture that has been warehoused for a long time, should be washed with soda and warm water previous to applying the reviver.

Morocco Leather Reviver.—The coverings of chairs or sofas in morocco, roan, or skiver can be much improved by this reviver. If old and greasy, wash with sour milk first. The reviver should be applied with a piece of wadding, and wiped one way only, as in glazing. The colour can be matched by adding red-sanders. Methylated spirit, 1/2 pint; gum benzoin, 2 oz.; shellac, 1/2 oz. Mix, and shake up occasionally until dissolved.

Hair-cloth Reviver.—Mix equal parts of marrow-oil (neats-foot), ox-gall. and ivory-black, to be well rubbed with a cloth. This composition forms a valuable renovator for old hair-cloth.

To Remove Grease Stains from Silks, Damasks, Cloth, etc.—Pour over the stain a small quantity of benzoline spirit, and it will soon disappear without leaving the least mark behind. The most delicate colours can be so treated without fear of injury. For paint stains chloroform is very efficacious.

To Remove Ink Stains from White Marble.—Make a little chloride of lime into a paste with water, and rub it into the stains, and let it remain a few hours; then wash off with soap and water.



CHAPTER XI.

MATERIALS USED.

Alkanet-root (botanical name, Anchusa tinctoria).—This plant is a native of the Levant, but it is much cultivated in the south of France and in Germany. The root is the only part used by French polishers to obtain a rich quiet red; the colouring is chiefly contained in the bark or outer covering, and is easily obtained by soaking the root in spirits or linseed-oil. The plant itself is a small herbaceous perennial, and grows to about a foot in height, with lance-shaped leaves and purple flowers, and with a long woody root with a deep red bark.

Madder-root (Rubia tinctoria).—This plant is indigenous to the Levant; but it is much cultivated in Southern Europe, and also in India. Its uses are for dyeing and staining; it can be procured in a powdered state, and imparts its red colour when soaked in water or spirits. This is a creeping plant with a slender stem; almost quadrangular, the leaves grow four in a bunch; flowers small, fruit yellow, berry double, one being abortive. The roots are dug up when the plant has attained the age of two or three years; they are of a long cylindrical shape, about the thickness of a quill, and of a red-brownish colour, and when powdered are a bright Turkish-red. Extracts of madder are mostly obtained by treating the root with boiling water, collecting the precipitates which separate on cooling, mixing them with gum or starch, and adding acetate of alumina or iron. This is in fact a mixture of colouring matter and a mordant.

Red-sanders (Pterocarpus santalinus).—The tree from which this wood is obtained is a lofty one, and is to be found in many parts of India, especially about Madras. It yields a dye of a bright garnet-red colour, and is used by French polishers for dyeing polishes, varnishes, revivers, etc.

Logwood (Haematoxylon campeachianum).—This is a moderate-sized tree with a very contorted trunk and branches, which are beset with sharp thorns, and blooms with a yellow flower. It is a native of Central America and the West Indies. This valuable dye-wood is imported in logs; the heart-wood is the most valuable, which is cut up into chips or ground to powder for the use of dyers by large powerful mills constructed especially for the purpose. Logwood, when boiled in water, easily imparts its red colour. If a few drops of acetic acid (vinegar) is added, a bright red is produced; and when a little alum is added for a mordant, it forms red ink. If an alkali, such as soda or potash, is used instead of an acid, the colour changes to a dark blue or purple, and with a little management every shade of these colours can be obtained. Logwood put into polish or varnish also imparts its red colour.

Fustic (Maclura tinctoria).—This tree is a native of the West Indies, and imparts a yellow dye. Great quantities are used for dyeing linens, etc. The fustic is a large and handsome evergreen, and is imported in long sticks.

Turmeric (Curcuma longa).—Turmeric is a stemless plant, with palmated tuberous roots and smooth lance-shaped leaves. It is imported from the East Indies and China. The root is the part which affords the yellow powder for dyeing. It is also a condiment, and is largely used in Indian curry-powder. Paper stained with turmeric is used by chemists as a test for alkalies, and it is also used in making Dutch, pink, and gold-coloured varnishes.

Indigo (Indigofera tinctoria).—Indigo is a shrub which grows from two to three feet in height, and is cut down just as it begins to flower. It is cultivated in almost all the countries situated in the tropics. The dye substance is prepared from the stems and leaves, and is largely used in calico-printing.

Persian Berries (Rhamnus infectorius).—These berries are the produce of a shrub of a species of buckthorn common in Persia, whence they derive their name; but large quantities are also imported into England from Turkey and the south of France. The berries are gathered in an unripe state, and furnish a yellow dye.

Nut-galls.—These are found upon the young twigs of the Turkish dwarf oak (Quercus infectoria), and are produced by the puncture of an insect called Cynips. The supply is principally from Turkey and Aleppo. Nut-galls contain a large quantity of tannin and gallic acid, and are extensively used in dyeing.

Catechu.—This is obtained from the East Indies, and is the extract of the Acacia catechu, a thorny tree. The wood is cut up into chips similar to logwood, and after boiling and evaporation the liquor assumes the consistency of tar; but when cold it hardens, and is formed into small squares. It is extensively used by tanners in place of oak bark.

Thus.—Thus is the resin which exudes from the spruce-fir, and is used by some polishers in the making of polishes and varnishes.

Sandarach is the produce of the Thuya articulata of Barbary. It occurs in small pale yellow scales, slightly acid, and is soluble in alcohol; it is used in both polishes and varnishes.

Mastic exudes from the mastic-tree (Pistacia lentiscus), and is principally obtained from Chios, in the Grecian Archipelago. It runs freely when an incision is made in the body of the tree, but not otherwise. It occurs in the form of nearly colourless and transparent tears of a faint smell, and is soluble in alcohol as well as oil of turpentine, forming a rapidly-drying but alterable varnish, which becomes brittle and dark-coloured by age.

Benzoin.—This is the produce of the American tree Laurus benzoin, and also of the Styrax benzoin of Sumatra, which is called "gum benjamin"; it is used in polishes and varnishes, and as a cosmetic, and is also burnt as incense in Catholic churches.

Copal is one of the most valuable of gums, and is furnished by many countries in the districts of Africa explored by Mr. H. M. Stanley, the discoverer of Livingstone. Copal is found in a fossil state in very large quantities. The natives collect the gum by searching in the sandy soil, mostly in the hilly districts, the country being almost barren, with no large tree except the Adansonia, and occasionally a few thorny bushes.

The gum is dug out of the earth by the copal gatherers at various depths, from two or three to ten or more feet, in a manner resembling gold-digging; and great excitement appears when a good amount is discovered. The gum is found in various shapes and sizes, resembling a hen's egg, a flat cake, a child's head, etc. There are three kinds, yellow, red, and whitish; and the first furnishes the best varnish and fetches the highest price from the dealers. Many of the natives assert that the copal still grows on different trees, and that it acquires its excellent qualities as a resin by dropping off and sinking several feet into the soil, whereby it is cleansed, and obtains, after a lapse of many years, its hardness, inflammability, and transparency.

Dragon's Blood is the juice of certain tropical plants of a red colour, especially of the tree Pterocarpus draco. After the juice is extracted, it is reduced to a powder by evaporation. It is used for darkening mahogany, colouring varnishes or polishes, etc., and for staining marble. Chemists also use it in preparing tinctures and tooth powders.

Shellac—or, more properly, gum-lac—is a resinous substance obtained from the Bihar-tree, and also from the Ficus Indica, or Banyan-tree. It exudes when the branches are pierced by an insect called the Coccus ficus. The twigs encrusted with the resin in its natural state is called Stick-lac. When the resin is broken off the twigs, powdered, and rubbed with water, a good deal of the red colouring matter is dissolved, and the granular resin left is called seed-lac; and when melted, strained, and spread into thin plates it is called shellac, and is prepared in various ways and known by the names of button, garnet, liver, orange, ruby, thread, etc., and is used for many purposes in the arts. Shellac forms the principal ingredient for polishes and spirit varnishes. Red sealing-wax is composed of shellac, Venice turpentine, and vermilion red; for the black sealing-wax ivory-black is used instead of the vermilion. Shellac is soluble in alcohol, and in many acids and alkalies. Lac-dye is the red colour from the stick-lac dissolved by water and evaporated to dryness. The dye, however, is principally from the shrivelled-up body of the insect of the Stick-lac.

Shellac is produced in the largest quantity and the best quality in Bengal, Assam, and Burmah. The chief seat of manufacture is Calcutta, where the native manufacturers are accused of adulterating it with resin to a considerable extent. The best customers are Great Britain and the United States, though the demand in the Italian markets appears to be on the increase.

Amber is a yellow, semi-transparent, fossil resin; hard but brittle, and easily cut with a knife; tasteless, and without smell, except when pounded or heated, and then it emits a fragrant odour. It has considerable lustre; becomes highly electric by friction; and will burn with a yellow flame. It is found in nodules of various sizes in alluvial soils, or on the seashore in many places, particularly on the shores of the Baltic. Amber is much employed for ornamental purposes, and is also used in the manufacture of amber-varnish. It will not dissolve in alcohol, but yields to the concentrated action of sulphuric acid, which will dissolve all resins except caramba wax.

Pumice-stone.—This well-known light and spongy volcanic substance is extensively quarried in the small islands that lie off the coast of Sicily. Its porosity and smooth-cutting properties render it of great value to painters and polishers for levelling down first coatings. Ground pumice-stone is the best for cutting down bodies of polish or varnish that are more advanced towards completion. The best way to get a surface to a piece of lump pumice-stone is to rub it down on a flat York stone, or, better still, an old tile that has been well baked. Pumice-stone should not be allowed to stand in water; it causes the grain to contract and to harden, thereby deteriorating its cutting properties.

Linseed-oil.—This valuable oil is obtained by pressure from the seed of the flax plant (Linum usitatissimum). Linseed contains on an average about 33 per cent. of oil, though the amount varies materially, the percentage obtained fluctuating considerably, not being alike on any two successive days. This is partly due to the varying richness of the seed, and partly to the manner in which it is manipulated in extracting the oil, it being a very easy matter to lose a considerable percentage of the oil by a lack of skill in any of the processes, though they all seem so simple.

The first thing done with the seed from which the oil is to be extracted is to pass it through a screen, to cleanse it from foreign substances. The seed is received in bags containing from three to four bushels, and pockets containing one-sixth of that amount. Having been screened it is passed through a mill, whose large iron-rollers, three in number, grind it to a coarse meal. Thence it is carried to what are known as the "mullers," which are two large stones, about eight feet in diameter and eighteen inches thick, weighing six tons each, standing on their edges, and rolling around on a stone bed. About five bushels of the meal are placed in the mullers, and about eight quarts of hot water are added. The meal is afterwards carried by machinery to the heaters, iron pans holding about a bushel each. These are heated to an even temperature by steam, and are partly filled with the meal, which for seven minutes is submitted to the heat, being carefully stirred in order that all parts may become evenly heated. At the end of that time the meal is placed in bags, which in turn are placed in hydraulic presses, iron plates being placed between the bags. Pressure is applied for about eight minutes, until, as is supposed, all the oil is pressed out, leaving a hard cake, known to the trade as oil-cake, or linseed-cake.

The product of these various processes is known as "raw" oil, a considerable portion of which is sold without further labour being expended upon it. There is, however, a demand for "boiled" oil, for certain purposes where greater drying properties are needed. To supply this want oil is placed in large kettles, holding from five hundred to one thousand gallons, where it is heated to a temperature of about 500 degrees, being stirred continually. This process, when large kettles are used, requires nearly the entire day. While the boiling process is going on, oxide of manganese is added, which helps to give the boiled oil better drying properties. A considerable portion of the oil is bleached, for the use of manufacturers of white paints.

Venice Turpentine.—This is obtained from the larch, and is said to be contained in peculiar sacs in the upper part of the stem, and to be obtained by puncturing them. It is a ropy liquid, colourless or brownish green, having a somewhat unpleasant odour and bitter taste.

Oil of Turpentine is the most plentiful and useful of oils. It is obtained in America from a species of pine very plentiful in the Carolinas, Georgia, and Alabama, known as the long-leaved pine (pinus Australis), and found only where the original forest has not been removed.

Methylated Spirits.—The methylated spirit of commerce usually consists of the ordinary mixed grain, or "plain" spirit, as produced by the large distillers in London and elsewhere, with which are blended, by simply mixing in various proportions, one part vegetable naphtha and three parts spirits of wine. The mixing takes place in presence of a revenue officer, and the spirits so "methylated" are allowed to be used duty free. The revenue authorities consider the admixture of naphtha, having so pungent and disagreeable a smell, a sufficient security against its sale and consumption as a beverage. No process has yet been discovered of getting rid of this odour. It is illegal for druggists to use it in the preparation of medicinal tinctures, unless they are for external use.

PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, LONDON AND BECCLES.



CROSBY LOCKWOOD & SON'S

LIST OF WORKS

ON

TRADES AND MANUFACTURES, THE INDUSTRIAL ARTS, CHEMICAL MANUFACTURES, COUNTING HOUSE WORK, ETC.

A Complete Catalogue of NEW and STANDARD BOOKS relating to CIVIL, MECHANICAL, MARINE and ELECTRICAL ENGINEERING; MINING, METALLURGY, and COLLIERY WORKING; ARCHITECTURE and BUILDING; AGRICULTURE and ESTATE MANAGEMENT, etc. Post Free on Application.

7, STATIONERS' HALL COURT, LONDON, E.C., AND 121a, VICTORIA STREET, WESTMINSTER, S.W.

1910.



LIST OF WORKS

ON

TRADES and MANUFACTURES, THE INDUSTRIAL ARTS, Etc.

ACETYLENE, LIGHTING BY. Generators, Burners, and Electric Furnaces. By WILLIAM E. GIBBS, M.E. With 66 Illustrations. Crown 8vo, cloth 7/6

AIR GAS LIGHTING SYSTEMS. See PETROL GAS.

ALCOHOL (INDUSTRIAL): ITS MANUFACTURE AND USES. A Practical Treatise based on Dr. Max Maercker's "Introduction to Distillation," as revised by Drs. DELBRUCK and LANGE. By J. K. BRACHVOGEL. 500 pages, 105 engravings Net 16/6

THE INDUSTRIAL VALUE OF TAX-FREE ALCOHOL AND WHAT IT MEANS TO AGRICULTURAL INTERESTS—SUMMARY OF THE PROCESSES IN SPIRIT MANUFACTURE—STARCH, HOW FORMED, ITS CHARACTERISTICS, AND THE CHANGES IT UNDERGOES—ENZYMES OR FERMENTS—PRODUCTS OF FERMENTATION—STARCHY AND SACCHARIFEROUS RAW MATERIALS—PREPARATION OF THE MALT—STEAMING THE RAW MATERIAL—THE MASHING PROCESS—FERMENTING THE MASH—PREPARATION OF ARTIFICIAL YEAST IN THE DISTILLERY—FERMENTATION IN PRACTICE—DISTILLATION AND RECTIFICATION—ARRANGEMENT OF THE DISTILLERY—THE SPENT WASH—DENATURING OF ALCOHOL—ALCOHOL FOR THE PRODUCTION OF POWER, HEATING AND ILLUMINATION—STATISTICS.

ALKALI TRADE MANUAL. Including the Manufacture of Sulphuric Acid, Sulphate of Soda, and Bleaching Powder. By JOHN LOMAS, Alkali Manufacturer. With 232 Illustrations. Super-royal 8vo, cloth. L1 10s.

BLOWPIPE IN CHEMISTRY, MINERALOGY, Etc. Containing all known Methods of Anhydrous Analysis, many Working Examples, and Instructions for Making Apparatus. By Lieut.-Colonel W. A. Ross, R.A., F.G.S. Second Edition. Crown 8vo, cloth 5/0

BOOT AND SHOE MAKING, including Measurement, Last-fitting, Cutting-out, Closing and Making, with a Description of the most Approved Machinery employed. By J. B. LENO. Crown 8vo, cloth 2/0

BRASS FOUNDER'S MANUAL. Modelling, Pattern Making, Moulding, Turning, &c. By W. GRAHAM. Crown 8vo, cloth 2/0

BREAD & BISCUIT BAKER'S & SUGAR-BOILER'S ASSISTANT. Including a large variety of Modern Recipes. By ROBERT WELLS. Fifth Edition. Crown 8vo, cloth 1/0

"A large number of wrinkles for the ordinary cook, as well as the baker."—Saturday Review.

BREAKFAST DISHES. For every Morning of Three Months. By Miss ALLEN (Mrs. A. MACAIRE). Author of "Savouries and Sweets," &c. Twenty-third Edition. F'cap 8vo. Sewed 1/0 Or, quarter bound, fancy boards 1/6

BREWERS, HANDY BOOK FOR. Being a Practical Guide to the Art of Brewing and Malting. Embracing the Conclusions of Modern Research which bear upon the Practice of Brewing. By H. E. WRIGHT, M.A. Third Edition. Thoroughly Revised and Enlarged. Large Crown 8vo, 578 pp., cloth Net 12/6

BARLEY, MALTING AND MALT—WATER FOR BREWING—HOPS AND SUGARS—THE BREWING ROOM—CHEMISTRY AS APPLIED TO BREWING—THE LABORATORY—MASHING, SPARGING, AND BOILING—FERMENTS IN GENERAL—FERMENTATION WITH COMMERCIAL YEAST—CULTURE FROM A SINGLE CELL WITH YEASTS—TREATMENT OF BEER—THE BREWERY AND PLANTS.

"We have great pleasure in recommending this handy Book."—The Brewers' Guardian.

CALCULATOR, NUMBER, WEIGHT AND FRACTIONAL. Containing upwards of 250,000 Separate Calculations, showing at a Glance the Value at 422 Different Rates, ranging from 1/128th of a Penny to 20s. each, or per cwt., and L20 per ton, of any number of articles consecutively, from 1 to 470. Any number of cwts., qrs., and lbs., from 1 cwt. to 470 cwts. Any number of tons, cwts., qrs., and lbs., from 1 to 1,000 tons. By WILLIAM CHADWICK, Public Accountant. Fourth Edition, Revised and Improved. 8vo, strongly bound 18/0

"It is as easy of reference for any answer or any number of answers as a dictionary. For making up accounts or estimates the book must prove invaluable to all who have any considerable quantity of calculations involving price and measure in any combination to do."—Engineer.

"The most perfect work of the kind yet prepared."—Glasgow Herald.

CEMENTS, PASTES, GLUES, AND GUMS. A Guide to the Manufacture and Application of Agglutinants for Workshop, Laboratory, or Office Use. With 900 Recipes and Formulae. By H. C. STANDAGE, Crown 8vo, cloth 2/0

"As a revelation of what are considered trade secrets, this book will arouse an amount of curiosity among the large number of industries it touches."—Daily Chronicle.

CHEMISTRY FOR ARMY AND MATRICULATION CANDIDATES. By GEOFFREY MARTIN, B.SC., Ph.D. Crown 8vo, cloth. With numerous Illustrations Net 2/0

PREPARATION AND USE OF APPARATUS—PREPARATION AND PROPERTIES OF CERTAIN GASES AND LIQUIDS—SIMPLE QUANTITATIVE EXPERIMENTS—ANALYTICAL OPERATIONS—SOLUBILITY—WATER CRYSTALLISATION—NEUTRALISATION OF ACIDS BY BASES, AND PREPARATION OF SIMPLE SALTS—VOLUMETRIC ANALYSIS—CHEMICAL EQUIVALENTS—OBSERVATION OF REACTION—MELTING AND BOILING POINTS—SYMBOLS AND ATOMIC WEIGHTS OF THE ELEMENTS—WEIGHTS AND MEASURES—HINTS ON REGULATING WORK IN PRACTICAL CHEMISTRY CLASSES.

CLOCKS, WATCHES, & BELLS for PUBLIC PURPOSES. By EDMUND BECKETT, LORD GRIMTHORPE, LL.D., K.C., F.R.A.S. Eighth Edition, with new List of Great Bells and an Appendix on Weathercocks. Crown 8vo, cloth 4/6; cloth boards, 5/6

"The only modern treatise on clock-making."—Horological Journal.

COACH-BUILDING. A Practical Treatise, Historical and Descriptive. By J. W. BURGESS. Crown 8vo, cloth 2/6

COKE—MODERN COKING PRACTICE. Including the Analysis of Materials and Products. A handbook for those engaged or interested in Coke Manufacture with recovery of By-Products. By T. H. BYROM, F.I.C., F.C.S., Mem. Soc. of Chem. Industry, Chief Chemist to the Wigan Coal and Iron Company. For fifteen years Lecturer at the Wigan Technical College. Author of "The Physics and Chemistry of Mining"; and J. E. CHRISTOPHER, Mem. Soc. of Chem. Industry, Sub-manager of the Semet Solvay Coking Plant of the Wigan Coal and Iron Company. Lecturer on Coke Manufacture at the Wigan Technical College. 168 pages, with numerous illustrations. Demy 8vo, cloth. [Just Published Net] 8/6

"The authors have succeeded in treating the subject in a clear and compact way, giving an easily comprehensible review of the different processes."—Mining Journal.

"The book will be eagerly read, and the authors may be assured that their labour will be appreciated. We anticipate that the book will be a success; at any rate it possesses the necessary merit."—Science and Art of Mining.

COMMERCIAL CORRESPONDENT, FOREIGN. Being Aids to Commercial Correspondence in Five Languages—English, French, German, Italian, and Spanish. By CONRAD E. BAKER. Third Edition, Carefully Revised Throughout. Crown 8vo, cloth 4/6

"Whoever wishes to correspond in all the languages mentioned by Mr. Baker cannot do better than study this work, the materials of which are excellent and conveniently arranged. They consist not of entire specimen letters, but—what are far more useful—short passages, sentences, or phrases expressing the same general idea in various forms."—Athenaeum.

CONFECTIONER, MODERN FLOUR. Containing a large Collection of Recipes for Cheap Cakes, Biscuits, &c. With remarks on the Ingredients Used in their Manufacture. By R. WELLS 1/0

CONFECTIONERY, ORNAMENTAL. A Guide for Bakers, Confectioners and Pastrycooks; including a variety of Modern Recipes, and Remarks on Decorative and Coloured Work. With 129 Original Designs. By ROBERT WELLS. Crown 8vo, cloth 5/0

"A valuable work, practical, and should be in the hands of every baker and confectioner. The illustrative designs are worth treble the amount charged for the work."—Bakers' Times.

COTTON MANUFACTURE. A Manual of Practical Instruction of the Processes of Opening, Carding, Combing, Drawing, Doubling and Spinning, Methods of Dyeing, &c. For the Use of Operatives, Overlookers, and Manufacturers. By J. LISTER. 8vo, cloth 7/6

DANGEROUS GOODS. Their Sources and Properties, Modes of Storage and Transport. With Notes and Comments on Accidents arising therefrom. For the Use of Government and Railway Officials, Steamship Owners, &c. By H. J. PHILLIPS. Crown 8vo, cloth 9/0

=DENTISTRY (MECHANICAL).= A Practical Treatise on the Construction of the Various Kinds of Artificial Dentures. By C. HUNTER. Crown 8vo, cloth =3/0

DISCOUNT GUIDE. Comprising several Series of Tables for the Use of Merchants, Manufacturers, Ironmongers, and Others, by which may be ascertained the Exact Profit arising from any mode of using Discounts, either in the Purchase or Sale of Goods, and the method of either Altering a Rate of Discount, or Advancing a Price, so as to produce, by one operation, a sum that will realise any required Profit after allowing one or more Discounts: to which are added Tables of Profit or Advance from 11/4 to 90 per cent., Tables of Discount from 11/4 to 983/4 per cent., and Tables of Commission, &c., from 1/8 to 10 per cent. By HENRY HARBEN, Accountant. New Edition, Corrected. Demy 8vo, half-bound L1 5s.

"A book such as this can only be appreciated by business men, to whom the saving of time means saving of money. The work must prove of great value to merchants, manufacturers, and general traders."—British Trade Journal.

DRYING MACHINERY AND PRACTICE. A Handbook on the Theory and Practice of Drying and Desiccating, with Classified Description of Installations, Machinery, and Apparatus, including also a Glossary of Technical Terms and Bibliography. By THOMAS G. MARLOW, Grinding, Drying, and Separating Machinery Specialist. Medium 8vo. About 250 pages, with 150 Illustrations [In the Press, price about] 12/6 net.

ELECTRICITY IN FACTORIES AND WORKSHOPS: ITS COST AND CONVENIENCE. A Handbook for Power Producers and Power Users. By A. P. HASLAM, M.I.E.E. 328 pages, with numerous illustrations. Large crown, 8vo, cloth Net 7/6

ELECTRO-METALLURGY. A Practical Treatise. By ALEXANDER WATT. Tenth Edition, enlarged and revised. Including the most Recent Processes. Crown 8vo, cloth 3/6

ELECTRO-PLATING. A Practical Handbook on the Deposition of Copper, Silver, Nickel, Gold, Aluminium, Brass, Platinum, &c., &c. By J. W. URQUHART, C.E. Fifth Edition, Revised. Crown 8vo, cloth 5/0

ELECTRO-PLATING & ELECTRO-REFINING OF METALS Being a new edition of ALEXANDER WATT'S "ELECTRO-DEPOSITION." Revised and Rewritten by A. PHILIP, B.Sc., Principal Assistant to the Admiralty Chemist. Crown 8vo, cloth Net 12/6

PART I. ELECTRO-PLATING—PRELIMINARY CONSIDERATIONS—PRIMARY AND SECONDARY BATTERIES—THERMOPILES—DYNAMOS—COST OF ELECTRICAL INSTALLATIONS OF SMALL OUTPUT FOR ELECTRO-PLATING—HISTORICAL REVIEW OF ELECTRO DEPOSITION—ELECTRO DEPOSITION OF COPPER—DEPOSITION OF GOLD BY SIMPLE IMMERSION—ELECTRO DEPOSITION OF GOLD—VARIOUS GILDING OPERATIONS—MERCURY GILDING—ELECTRO DEPOSITION OF SILVER—IMITATION ANTIQUE SILVER—ELECTRO DEPOSITION OF NICKEL, TIN, IRON AND ZINC, VARIOUS METALS AND ALLOYS—RECOVERY OF GOLD AND SILVER FROM WASH SOLUTIONS—MECHANICAL OPERATIONS CONNECTED WITH ELECTRO DEPOSITION—MATERIALS USED IN ELECTRO DEPOSITION. PART II. ELECTRO METALLURGY—ELECTRO METALLURGY OF COPPER—COST OF ELECTROLYTIC COPPER REFINING—CURRENT DENSITY AS A FACTOR IN PROFITS—SOME IMPORTANT DETAILS IN ELECTROLYTIC COPPER REFINERIES—ELECTROLYTIC GOLD AND SILVER BULLION REFINING—ELECTROLYTIC TREATMENT OF TIN—ELECTROLYTIC REFINING OF LEAD—ELECTROLYTIC PRODUCTION OF ALUMINIUM AND ELECTROLYTIC REFINING OF NICKEL—ELECTRO GALVANISING.

"Eminently a book for the practical worker in electro-deposition."—Engineer.

ELECTRO-TYPING. The Reproduction and Multiplication of Printing Surfaces and Works of Art by the Electro-Deposition of Metals. By J. W. URQUHART, C.E. Crown 8vo, cloth 5/0

ENGINEERING CHEMISTRY. A Practical Treatise for the Use of Analytical Chemists, Engineers, Iron Masters, Iron Founders, Students and others. Comprising Methods of Analysis and Valuation of the Principal Materials used in Engineering Work, with numerous Analyses, Examples and Suggestions. By H. PHILLIPS. Third Edition, Revised. Crown 8vo, 420 pp., with Illustrations, cloth Net 10/6

EXPLOSIVES, MODERN, A HANDBOOK ON. A Practical Treatise on the Manufacture and Use of Dynamite, Gun-Cotton, Nitro-Glycerine and other Explosive Compounds, including Collodion-Cotton. With Chapters on Explosives in Practical Application. By M. EISSLER, M.E. Second Edition, Enlarged. Crown 8vo, cloth 12/6

"A veritable mine of information on the subject of explosives employed for military, mining, and blasting purposes."—Army and Navy Gazette.

EXPLOSIVES: NITRO-EXPLOSIVES. The Properties, Manufacture, and Analysis of Nitrated Substances, including the Fulminates, Smokeless Powders, and Celluloid. By P. G. SANFORD, F.I.C., F.C.S., Public Analyst to the Borough of Penzance. Second Edition, enlarged. With Illustrations. Demy 8vo, cloth Net 10/6

NITRO-GLYCERINE—NITRO-CELLULOSE, ETC.—DYNAMITE—NITRO-BENZOL, ROBURITE, BELLITE, PICRIC ACID, ETC.—THE FULMINATES—SMOKELESS POWDERS IN GENERAL—ANALYSIS OF EXPLOSIVES—FIRING POINT, HEAT TESTS, DETERMINATION OF RELATIVE STRENGTH, ETC.

"One of the very few text-books in which can be found just what is wanted. Mr. Sanford goes steadily through the whole list of explosives commonly used, he names any given explosive, and tells of what it is composed and how it is manufactured. The book is excellent."—Engineer.

FACTORY ACCOUNTS: THEIR PRINCIPLES AND PRACTICE. A Handbook for Accountants and Manufacturers, with Appendices on the Nomenclature of Machine Details, the Income Tax Acts, the Rating of Factories, Fire and Boiler Insurance, the Factory and Workshop Acts, etc., including a Glossary of Terms and a large number of Specimen Rulings. By EMILE GARCKE and J. M. FELLS. Fifth Edition, Revised and Enlarged. Demy 8vo, cloth 7/6

"A very interesting description of the requirements of Factory Accounts.... The principle of assimilating the Factory Accounts to the general commercial books is one which we thoroughly agree with."—Accountants' Journal.

FLOUR MANUFACTURE. A Treatise on Milling Science and Practice. By FRIEDRICH KICK, Imperial Regierungsrath, Professor of Mechanical Technology in the Imperial German Polytechnic Institute, Prague. Translated from the Second Enlarged and Revised Edition. By H. H. P. POWLES, A.M.Inst.C.E. 400 pp., with 28 Folding Plates, and 167 Woodcuts. Royal 8vo, cloth L1 5s.

"This invaluable work is the standard authority on the science of milling."—The Miller.

FRENCH POLISHING AND ENAMELLING. Including numerous Recipes for making Polishes, Varnishes, Glaze, Lacquers, Revivers, &c. By R. BITMEAD. Crown 8vo, cloth 1/6

GAS ENGINEER'S POCKET-BOOK. Comprising Tables, Notes and Memoranda relating to the Manufacture, Distribution and Use of Coal Gas and the Construction of Gas Works. By H. O'CONNOR, A.M.Inst.C.E. Third Edition. Revised. Crown 8vo, leather. Net 10/6

GENERAL CONSTRUCTING MEMORANDA—GENERAL MATHEMATICAL TABLES—UNLOADING MATERIALS AND STORAGE—RETORT HOUSE—CONDENSERS—BOILERS, ENGINES, PUMPS, AND EXHAUSTERS—SCRUBBERS AND WASHERS—PURIFIERS—GASHOLDER TANKS—GASHOLDERS—WORKSHOP NOTES—MANUFACTURING—STORING MATERIALS—RETORT HOUSE (WORKING)—CONDENSING GAS—EXHAUSTERS, ETC.—WASHING AND SCRUBBING—PURIFICATION—GASHOLDERS (CARE OF)—DISTRIBUTING GAS—TESTING—ENRICHING PROCESSES—PRODUCT WORKS—SUPPLEMENTARY.

"The book contains a vast amount of information."—Gas World.

GAS ENGINEERING. See PRODUCER GAS PRACTICE AND INDUSTRIAL GAS ENGINEERING. GAS FITTING. A Practical Handbook. By JOHN BLACK. Revised Edition. With 130 Illustrations. Crown 8vo, cloth 2/6

GAS LIGHTING. See ACETYLENE.

GAS LIGHTING FOR COUNTRY HOUSES. See PETROL AIR GAS.

GAS MANUFACTURE, CHEMISTRY OF. A Practical Manual for the use of Gas Engineers, Gas Managers and Students. By HAROLD M. ROYLE, Chief Chemical Assistant at the Beckton Gas Works. Demy 8vo, cloth, 340 pages, with numerous Illustrations and Coloured Plate. Net 12/6

PREPARATION OF STANDARD SOLUTIONS—ANALYSIS OF COALS—DESCRIPTION OF VARIOUS TYPES OF FURNACES—PRODUCTS OF CARBONISATION AT VARIOUS TEMPERATURES—ANALYSIS OF CRUDE GAS—ANALYSIS OF LIME—ANALYSIS OF AMMONIACAL LIQUOR—ANALYTICAL VALUATION OF OXIDE OF IRON—ESTIMATION OF NAPHTHALIN—ANALYSIS OF FIRE-BRICKS AND FIRE-CLAY—ART OF PHOTOMETRY—CARBURETTED WATER GAS—APPENDIX CONTAINING STATUTORY AND OFFICIAL REGULATIONS FOR TESTING GAS. VALUABLE EXCERPTS FROM VARIOUS IMPORTANT PAPERS ON GAS CHEMISTRY, USEFUL TABLES, MEMORANDA, etc.

GAS WORKS. Their Construction and Arrangement, and the Manufacture and Distribution of Coal Gas. By S. HUGHES, C.E. Ninth Edition. Revised by H. O'CONNOR, A.M.Inst.C.E. Crown 8vo 6/0

GOLD WORKING. JEWELLER'S ASSISTANT for Masters and Workmen, Compiled from the Experience of Thirty Years' Workshop Practice. By G. E. GEE. Crown 8vo 7/6

GOLDSMITH'S HANDBOOK. Alloying, Melting, Reducing, Colouring, Collecting, and Refining. Manipulation, Recovery of Waste, Chemical and Physical Properties; Solders, Enamels, and other useful Rules and Recipes, &c. By G. E. GEE, Sixth Edition. Crown 8vo, cloth 3/0

GOLDSMITH'S AND SILVERSMITH'S COMPLETE HANDBOOK. By G. E. GEE. Crown 8vo, half bound 7/0

HALL-MARKING OF JEWELLERY. Comprising an account of all the different Assay Towns of the United Kingdom, with the Stamps at present employed; also the Laws relating to the Standards and Hall-marks at the various Assay Offices. By G. E. GEE. Crown 8vo 3/0

HANDYBOOKS FOR HANDICRAFTS. By PAUL N. HASLUCK. See page 16.

HOROLOGY, MODERN, IN THEORY AND PRACTICE. Translated from the French of CLAUDIUS SAUNIER, ex-Director of the School of Horology at Macon, by JULIEN TRIPPLIN, F.R.A.S., Besancon Watch Manufacturer, and EDWARD RIGG, M.A., Assayer in the Royal Mint. With Seventy-eight Woodcuts and Twenty-two Coloured Copper Plates. Second Edition. Super-royal 8vo, L2 2s. cloth; half-calf L2 10s.

"There is no horological work in the English language at all to be compared to this production of M. Saunier's for clearness and completeness. It is alike good as a guide for the student and as a reference for the experienced horologist and skilled workman."—Horological Journal.

ILLUMINATING AND MISSAL PAINTING ON PAPER AND VELLUM. A Practical Treatise on Manuscript Work, Testimonials, and Herald Painting, with Chapters on Lettering and Writing, and on Mediaeval Burnished Gold. With two Coloured Plates. By PHILIP WHITHARD (First-class Diploma for Illumination and Herald Painting, Printing Trades Exhibition, 1906). 156 pages. Crown 8vo, cloth Net 4/0

INTEREST CALCULATOR. Containing Tables at 1, 11/2, 2, 21/2, 3, 31/2, 33/4, 4, 41/2, 43/4 and 5 per cent. By A. M. CAMPBELL, Author of "The Concise Calendar." Crown 8vo, cloth Net 2/6

IRON AND METAL TRADES' COMPANION. For Expeditiously ascertaining the Value of any Goods bought or sold by Weight, from 1s. per cwt. to 112s. per cwt., and from one farthing per pound to one shilling per pound. By THOMAS DOWNIE. Strongly bound in leather, 396 pp. 9/0

"A most useful set of tables. Nothing like them before existed."—Building News.

IRON-PLATE WEIGHT TABLES. For Iron Shipbuilders, Engineers and Iron Merchants. Containing the Calculated Weights of upwards of 150,000 different sizes of Iron Plates, from 1 ft. by 6 ins. by 1/4 in. to 10 ft. by 5 ft. by 1 in. Worked out on the basis of 40 lbs. to the square foot of iron of 1 in. in thickness. By H. BURLINSON and W. H. SIMPSON. 4to, half bound L1 5s.

LABOUR CONTRACTS. A Popular Handbook on the Law of Contracts or Works and Services. By DAVID GIBBONS. Fourth Edition, with Appendix of Statutes by T. F. UTTLEY; Solicitor. F'cap. 8vo, cloth 3/6

LAUNDRY MANAGEMENT. A Handbook for use in Private and Public Laundries. Cr. 8vo, cloth 2/0

LAW FOR MANUFACTURERS, EMPLOYERS AND OTHERS, ETC. See "EVERY MAN'S OWN LAWYER." A Handy-book of the Principles of Law and Equity. By a BARRISTER. Forty-seventh (1910) Edition, including the Legislation of 1909. 830 pp. Large crown 8vo, cloth [Just Published.] Net 6/8

SUMMARY OF CONTENTS: LANDLORD AND TENANT—VENDORS AND PURCHASERS—CONTRACTS AND AGREEMENTS—CONVEYANCES AND MORTGAGES—JOINT-STOCK COMPANIES—PARTNERSHIP—SHIPPING LAW—DEALINGS WITH MONEY—SURETISHIP—CHEQUES, BILLS AND NOTES—BILLS OF SALE—BANKRUPTCY—MASTERS, SERVANTS AND WORKMEN—INSURANCE: LIFE, ACCIDENT, ETC.—COPYRIGHT, PATENTS. TRADE MARKS—HUSBAND AND WIFE, DIVORCE—INFANCY, CUSTODY OF CHILDREN—TRUSTEES AND EXECUTORS—TAXES AND DEATH DUTIES—CLERGYMEN, DOCTORS, AND LAWYERS—PARLIAMENTARY ELECTIONS—LOCAL GOVERNMENT—LIBEL AND SLANDER—NUISANCES—CRIMINAL LAW—GAME LAWS, GAMING, INNKEEPERS—FORMS OF WILLS, AGREEMENTS, NOTICES, ETC.

"A useful and concise epitome of the law."—Law Magazine.

"A complete digest of the most useful facts which constitute English law."—Globe.

"A dictionary of legal facts well put together. The book is a very useful one."—Spectator.

LEATHER MANUFACTURE. A Practical Handbook of Tanning, Currying, and Chrome Leather Dressing. By A. WATT. Fifth Edition, Revised and Enlarged. 8vo, cloth Net 12/6

CHEMICAL THEORY OF THE TANNING PROCESS—THE SKIN—HIDES AND SKINS—TANNIN OR TANNIC ACID—GALLIC ACID—GALLIC FERMENTATION—TANNING MATERIALS—ESTIMATION OF TANNIN—PRELIMINARY OPERATIONS—DEPILATION OR UNHAIRING SKINS AND HIDES—DELIMING OR BATING—TANNING BUTTS FOR SOLE LEATHER—TANNING PROCESSES—TANNING BY PRESSURE—QUICK TANNING—HARNESS LEATHER TANNING—AMERICAN TANNING—HEMLOCK TANNING—TANNING BY ELECTRICITY—CHEMICAL TANNING—MISCELLANEOUS PROCESSES—COST OF AMERICAN TANNING—MANUFACTURE OF LIGHT LEATHERS—DYEING LEATHER—MANUFACTURE OF WHITE LEATHER—CHROME LEATHER MANUFACTURE—BOX CALF MANUFACTURE—CHAMOIS OR OIL LEATHER MANUFACTURE—CURRYING—MACHINERY EMPLOYED IN LEATHER MANUFACTURE—EMBOSSING LEATHER—FELLMONGERING—PARCHMENT, VELLUM, AND SHAGREEN—GUT DRESSING—GLUE BOILING—UTILISATION OF TANNER'S WASTE.

"A sound, comprehensive treatise on tanning and its accessories."—Chemical Review.

LEATHER MANUFACTURE. PRACTICAL TANNING:= A Handbook of Modern Processes, Receipts and Suggestions for the Treatment of Hides, Skins, and Pelts of every description, including various Patents relating to Tanning, with specifications. By LOUIS A. FLEMMING, American Tanner. Second Edition, in great part re-written, thoroughly revised, and much enlarged. Illustrated by six full-page Plates. Medium 8vo, cloth, 630 pages [Just published.] Net =28/0=

MAGNETOS FOR AUTOMOBILISTS, HOW MADE AND HOW USED. A Handbook of Practical Instruction in the Manufacture and Adaptation of the Magneto to the needs of the Motorist. By S. R. BOTTONE, late of the Collegio del Carmine, Turin, Author of "The Dynamo," "Ignition Devices," &c. Second Edition, enlarged. With 52 Illustrations. Crown 8vo, cloth Net 2/0

MARBLE AND MARBLE WORKING. A Handbook for Architects, Sculptors, Marble Quarry Owners and Workers, and all engaged in the Building and Decorative Industries. Containing numerous Illustrations and thirteen Coloured Plates. By W. G. RENWICK, Author of "The Marble Industry," "The Working of Marble for Decorative Purposes," etc. 240 pages. Medium 8vo, cloth 15/0

THE CHEMISTRY OF MARBLE—ITS GEOLOGICAL FORMATION—A SHORT CLASSIFICATION OF MARBLES—ANTIQUITY OF THE MARBLE INDUSTRY—ANCIENT QUARRIES AND METHODS OF WORKING—MODERN QUARRIES AND QUARRYING METHODS—MACHINERY USED IN QUARRYING—EUROPEAN AND AMERICAN SYSTEMS COMPARED—MARBLE AS BUILDING MATERIAL—USES OF MARBLE OTHER THAN FOR BUILDING PURPOSES-SOURCES OF PRODUCTION: ITALIAN, FRENCH, BELGIAN, AND GREEK MARBLES, ETC.—MARBLES OF THE UNITED KINGDOM AND BRITISH COLONIES—CONTINENTAL MARBLE WORKING—MARBLE WORKING MACHINERY—MARBLE WORKING IN THE UNITED STATES—AMERICAN MACHINERY DESCRIBED AND COMPARED—MARBLE WORKING: A BRITISH INDUSTRY—MARBLE SUBSTITUTES AND IMITATIONS—PRACTICAL POINTS FOR THE CONSIDERATION OF ARCHITECTS—HINTS ON THE SELECTION OF MARBLE—LIST OF MARBLES IN ORDINARY USE, WITH DESCRIPTIVE NOTES AND INSTANCES OF THEIR APPLICATION.

MENSURATION AND GAUGING. A POCKET-BOOK containing Tables, Rules, and Memoranda for Revenue Officers, Brewers, Spirit Merchants, &c. By J. B. MANT. Second Edition. 18mo, leather. 4/0

"Should be in the hands of every practical brewer."—Brewers' Journal.

METRIC TABLES, A SERIES OF. In which the British Standard Measures and Weights are compared with those of the Metric System at present in Use on the Continent. By C. H. DOWLING, C.E. 8vo, cloth 10/6

"Mr. Dowling's tables are well put together as a ready-reckoner for the conversion of one system into the other."—Athenaeum.

METROLOGY, MODERN. A Manual of the Metrical Units and Systems of the present Century. With an Appendix containing a proposed English System. By LOWIS d'A. JACKSON, A.M.Inst.C.E., Author of "Aid to Survey Practice," etc. Large crown 8vo, cloth 12/6

"We recommend the work to all interested in the practical reform of our weights and measures."—Nature.

MOTOR CAR, THE. A Practical Manual for the use of Students and Motor Car Owners, with notes on the Internal Combustion Engine and its fuel. By ROBERT W. A. BREWER, A.M.Inst.C.E., M.I.M.E., M.I.A.E. 250 pages. With numerous illustrations. Demy 8vo, cloth Net 5/0

MOTOR CAR CATECHISM. Containing about 320 Questions and Answers Explaining the Construction and Working of a Modern Motor Car. For the Use of Owners, Drivers, and Students. By JOHN HENRY KNIGHT. Second Edition, revised and enlarged, with an additional chapter on Motor Cycles. Crown 8vo, with Illustrations Net 1/6

THE PETROL ENGINE—TRANSMISSION AND THE CHASSIS—TYRES—DUTIES OF A CAR DRIVER—MOTOR CYCLES—LAWS AND REGULATIONS.

MOTOR CARS FOR COMMON ROADS. By A. J. WALLIS-TAYLER, A.M.Inst.C.E. 212 pp., with 76 Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 4/6

MOTOR VEHICLES FOR BUSINESS PURPOSES. A Practical Handbook for those interested in the Transport of Passengers and Goods. By A. J. WALLIS-TAYLER, A.M.Inst.C.E. With 134 Illustrations. Demy 8vo, cloth Net 9/0

RESISTANCE TO TRACTION ON COMMON ROADS—POWER REQUIRED FOR MOTOR VEHICLES—LIGHT PASSENGER VEHICLES—HEAVY PASSENGER VEHICLES—LIGHT GOODS VANS—HEAVY FREIGHT VEHICLES—SELF-PROPELLED VEHICLES FOR MUNICIPAL PURPOSES—MISCELLANEOUS TYPES OF MOTOR VEHICLES—COST OF RUNNING AND MAINTENANCE.

OILS AND ALLIED SUBSTANCES. AN ANALYSIS. By A. C. WRIGHT, M.A.Oxon., B.Sc.Lond., formerly Assistant Lecturer in Chemistry at the Yorkshire College, Leeds, and Lecturer in Chemistry at the Hull Technical School. Demy 8vo, cloth Net 9/0

THE OCCURRENCE AND COMPOSITION OF OILS, FATS AND WAXES—THE PHYSICAL PROPERTIES OF OILS, FATS, AND WAXES, AND THEIR DETERMINATION—THE CHEMICAL PROPERTIES OF OILS, FATS, AND WAXES FROM THE ANALYTICAL STANDPOINT—DETECTION AND DETERMINATION OF NON-FATTY CONSTITUENTS—METHODS FOR ESTIMATING THE CONSTITUENTS OF OILS AND FATS—DESCRIPTION AND PROPERTIES OF THE MORE IMPORTANT OILS, FATS, AND WAXES, WITH THE METHODS FOR THEIR INVESTIGATION—EXAMINATION OF CERTAIN COMMERCIAL PRODUCTS.

ORGAN BUILDING (PRACTICAL). By W. E. DICKSON, M.A., Precentor of Ely Cathedral. Second Edition, Crown 8vo 2/6

PAINTS, MIXED. THEIR CHEMISTRY AND TECHNOLOGY. By MAXIMILIAN TOCH. With 60 Photomicrographic Plates and other Illustrations Net 12/6

THE PIGMENTS—YELLOW, BLUE, AND GREEN PIGMENTS—THE INERT FILLERS AND EXTENDERS—PAINT VEHICLES—SPECIAL PAINTS—ANALYTICAL—APPENDIX.

PAINTING FOR THE IMITATION OF WOODS AND MARBLES. As Taught and Practised by A. R. VAN DER BURG and P. VAN DER BURG, Directors of the Rotterdam Painting Institution. Royal folio, cloth, 181/2 by 121/2 in. Illustrated with 24 full-size Coloured Plates; also 12 Plain Plates, comprising 154 Figures. Fifth Edition Net 25/0

PAINTING, GRAINING, MARBLING, AND SIGN WRITING. With a Course of Elementary Drawing and a Collection of Useful Receipts. By E. A. DAVIDSON. Ninth Edition. Coloured Plates. Crown 8vo, cloth, 5/0; cloth boards, 6/0

PAPER-MAKING. A Practical Manual for Paper Makers and Owners and Managers of Paper-Mills. With Tables, Calculations, etc. By G. CLAPPERTON, Paper-Maker. With Illustrations of Fibres from Micro-Photographs. Second edition, revised and enlarged. Crown 8vo, cloth Net 5/0

CHEMICAL AND PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF VARIOUS FIBRES—CUTTING AND BOILING OF RAGS—JUTE BOILING AND BLEACHING—WET PICKING—WASHING, BREAKING, AND BLEACHING—ELECTROLYTIC BLEACHING—ANTICHLOR—CELLULOSE FROM WOOD—MECHANICAL WOOD PULP—ESPARTO AND STRAW—BEATING— LOADING—STARCHING—COLOURING MATTER—RESIN, SIZE, AND SIZING—THE FOURDRINIER MACHINE AND ITS MANAGEMENT—ANIMAL SIZING—DRYING—GLAZING AND BURNISHING—CUTTING, FINISHING—MICROSCOPICAL EXAMINATION OF PAPER—TESTS FOR INGREDIENTS OF PAPER—RECOVERY OF SODA—TESTING OF CHEMICALS—TESTING WATER FOR IMPURITIES.

"The author caters for the requirements of responsible mill hands, apprentices, etc., whilst his manual will be found of great service to students of technology, as well as to veteran paper-makers and mill-owners. The illustrations form an excellent feature."—The World's Paper Trade.

PAPER-MAKING. A Practical Handbook of the Manufacture of Paper from Rags, Esparto, Straw, and other Fibrous Materials. Including the Manufacture of Pulp from Wood Fibre, with a Description of the Machinery and Appliances used. To which are added Details of Processes for Recovering Soda from Waste Liquors. By A. WATT. With Illustrations. Crown 8vo 7/6

PAPER MAKING, CHAPTERS ON. A Series of Volumes dealing in a practical manner with all the leading questions in connection with the Chemistry of Paper-Making and the Manufacture of Paper. By CLAYTON BEADLE, Lecturer on Paper-Making before the Society of Arts, 1898 and 1902, and at the Battersea Polytechnic Institute, 1902, etc., etc. Each volume is published separately, at the price of 5/0 net per vol.

Volume I, comprises a Series of Lectures delivered on behalf of the Battersea Polytechnic Institute in 1902. Crown 8vo. 151 pp. Net 5/0

Volume II. comprises Answers to Questions on Paper-Making Set by the Examiners to the City and Guilds of London Institute, 1901-1903. Crown 8vo, 182 pp. Net 5/0

Volume III. comprises a short practical Treatise in which Boiling, Bleaching, Loading, Colouring, and similar Questions are discussed. Crown 8vo, 142 pp. Net 5/0

CONTENTS:—"BRASS" AND "STEEL" BEATER BARS—THE SIZE AND SPEED OF BEATER ROLLS—THE FADING OF PRUSSIAN BLUE PAPERS—THE EFFECT OF LOWERING THE BREAST ROLL—THE EFFECT OF "LOADING" ON THE TRANSPARENCY OF PAPER—"TERRA ALBA" AS A LOADING FOR PAPER—THE USE OF ALUM IN TUB SIZING—THE INFLUENCE OF TEMPERATURE ON BLEACHING—THE USE OF REFINING ENGINES—AGITATION AS AN AUXILIARY TO BLEACHING—THE HEATING OF "STUFF" FOR THE PAPER MACHINE—THE COMPARATIVE RESULTS OF QUADRUPLE AND OPEN EFFECT EVAPORATION—HOW TO PREVENT ELECTRIFICATION OF PAPER ON THE MACHINE—TRANSPARENCY OF PAPERS—THE "LIFE" OF MACHINE WIRES—EDGE RUNNERS.

Volume IV. contains discussions upon Water Supplies and the Management of the Paper Machine and its influence upon the Qualities of Papers. Crown 8vo, 164 pp. Net 5/0

CONTENTS:—THE BULKING OF PAPERS—SPECIAL QUALITIES OF "ART" PAPERS—THE "AGEING" AND STORAGE OF PAPERS—THE USE OF LIME IN BOILING—CONTROLLING THE MARK OF THE "DANDY"—"MACHINE" AND "HAND" CUT RAGS—FROTH ON PAPER MACHINE—SCUM SPOTS IN PAPER—CONSUMPTION OF WATER IN THE MANUFACTURE OF PAPER—THE MANAGEMENT OF SUCTION-BOXES—THE SHRINKAGE OF PAPER ON THE MACHINE—PAPER THAT DOES NOT SHRINK OR EXPAND—THE PRODUCTION OF NON-STRETCHABLE PAPER—THE CONNECTION BETWEEN "STRETCH" AND "EXPANSION" OF PAPERS—"STRETCH" AND "BREAKING STRAIN"—PAPER TESTING MACHINES.

Volume V. concerning THE THEORY AND PRACTICE OF BEATING. Crown 8vo. With photomicrographs and other Illustrations. Net 5/0

CONTENTS:—EARLY BEATING APPLIANCES—THE HOLLANDER—THE ECONOMY OF BEATING—DIFFICULTIES OF ARRIVING AT DEFINITE RESULTS—BEHAVIOUR OF DIFFERENT FIBRES—"REFINING"—POWER CONSUMPTION—A COMPARISON OF TWO DIFFERENT KINDS OF BEATERS—POWER CONSUMED IN THE "BREAKING," "BEATING," AND "REFINING" OF DIFFERENT MATERIALS—DEALING WITH THE "CIRCULATION" AND "AGITATION" IN A HOLLANDER—COMPARISONS OF LARGE AND MEDIUM-SIZED HOLLANDERS WHEN BEATING "HARD" AND "SOFT" STOCK—TRIALS TO DETERMINE THE RELATIVE MERITS OF STONE AND METAL BEATER-BARS—TRIALS WITH BREAKERS, REED BEATERS, AND KINGSLAND REFINERS—A SYSTEM OF BEATING COMBINED WITH A SYSTEM FOR CONTINUOUS BLEACHING—BEATERS AND REFINERS—POWER CONSUMED IN GRINDING WOOD-PULP—THE REDUCTION IN LENGTH OF FIBRES AT DIFFERENT STAGES OF BEATING—METHOD FOR DETERMINING THE "WETNESS" OF BEATEN STUFF—THE POSITION OF BEATERS IN OLD AND MODERN PAPER-MILLS—APPENDIX.

PARA RUBBER. ITS CULTIVATION & PREPARATION. By W. H. JOHNSON, F.L.S., Ex-Director of Agriculture, Gold Coast Colony, West Africa, Director of Agriculture, Mozambique Company, East Africa, Commissioned by Government in 1902 to visit Ceylon to Study the Methods employed there in the Cultivation and Preparation of Para Rubber and other Agricultural Staples for Market, with a view to Introduce them into West Africa. Second Edition, rewritten and greatly enlarged, with numerous illustrations. Demy 8vo, cloth Net 7/6

THE WORLD'S PRODUCTION AND CONSUMPTION OF RUBBER—THE PARA RUBBER TREE AT HOME AND ABROAD—PROPAGATION—PLANTING AND CULTIVATING—SOILS AND MANURES—PESTS—LATEX—COLLECTING THE LATEX—RUBBER MANUFACTURE—THE ANTISEPTICISATION OF RUBBER—DRYING AND PACKING RUBBER FOR EXPORT—YIELD OF PARA RUBBER FROM CULTIVATED TREES—ESTABLISHMENT AND MAINTENANCE OF A PARA RUBBER PLANTATION—COMMERCIAL VALUE OF THE OIL IN HEVEA SEEDS.

PASTRYCOOK AND CONFECTIONER'S GUIDE. For Hotels, Restaurants, and the Trade in general, adapted also for Family Use. By R. WELLS, Author of "The Bread and Biscuit Baker" 1/0

PETROL AIR GAS. A Practical Handbook on the Installation and Working of Air Gas Lighting Systems for Country Houses. By HENRY O'CONNOR, F.R.S.E., A.M. Inst. C.E., &c., author of "The Gas Engineer's Pocket Book." 80 pages with illustrations. Crown 8vo, cloth Net 1/6

DESCRIPTION OF PREVIOUS PLANTS AND SYSTEMS FOR COUNTRY-HOUSE LIGHTING, DIFFICULTIES WITH, OBJECTIONS AND PRICES—HISTORY OF PETROL GAS, COMPARATIVE COSTS—PETROL, ITS NATURE, DANGERS, AND STORING, NOTES ON THE LAW REGARDING SAME—BURNERS, DESCRIPTION OF SAME, PIPING, MANTLES—GENERAL PRINCIPLES OF PARTS OF PLANTS—MOTIVE POWER METERS—WEIGHT-DRIVEN PLANTS—ROOT'S BLOWERS—HOT-AIR ENGINES—PELTON WATER-WHEELS—DESCRIPTIONS OF VARIOUS PLANTS—EXTRACT FROM AN ACT FOR THE SAFE-KEEPING OF PETROLEUM AND OTHER SUBSTANCES OF A LIKE NATURE—APPENDIX—USEFUL NOTES.

PETROLEUM. THE OIL FIELDS OF RUSSIA AND THE RUSSIAN PETROLEUM INDUSTRY. A Practical Handbook on the Exploration, Exploitation, and Management of Russian Oil Properties, the Origin of Petroleum in Russia, the Theory and Practice of Liquid Fuel. By A. B. THOMPSON, A.M.I.M.E., F.G.S. 415 pp., with numerous Illustrations and Photographic Plates. Second Edition Revised. Super-royal 8vo, cloth Net 21/0

PETROLEUM MINING AND OIL-FIELD DEVELOPMENT. A Guide to the Exploration of Petroleum Lands, and a Study of the Engineering Problems connected with the Winning of Petroleum. Including Statistical Data of important Oil Fields. Notes on the Origin and Distribution of Petroleum, and a description of the Methods of Utilizing Oil and Gas Fuels. By A. BEEBY THOMPSON, A.M.I.Mech.E., F.G.S. Author of "The Oil Fields of Russia." 384 pages, 114 illustrations, including 22 full-page plates. Demy 8vo, cloth. [Just Published.] Net 15/0

"It is an admirable text-book by a competent authority on an interesting subject."—Mining Magazine.

"The present effort is likely to receive a warm welcome in engineering circles, and it can be cordially commended for perusal. It will doubtless have that large sale to which its merits entitle it."—Mining World.

"The general aspects of the Petroleum Industry are fully and ably laid out."—Engineer.

PIGMENTS, ARTISTS' MANUAL OF. Showing their Composition, Conditions of Permanency, Non-Permanency, and Adulterations, etc., with Tests of Purity. By H. C. STANDAGE. Third Edition. Crown 8vo, cloth 2/6

PORTLAND CEMENT, THE MODERN MANUFACTURE OF. By PERCY C. H. WEST, Chemical Engineer and Consulting Chemist. In Three Volumes. Vol. I., dealing with "Machinery and Kilns." About 200 pages, Medium 8vo. With numerous Illustrations. [Nearly ready, price about] 10/6

PRODUCER GAS PRACTICE (AMERICAN) AND INDUSTRIAL GAS ENGINEERING. By NISBET LATTA, M.Amer.Soc.M.E., M.Amer.Gas Inst. 558 pages, with 247 illustrations. Demy 4to, cloth [Just Published.] Net 25/-

PRODUCER OPERATION—CLEANING THE GAS—WORKS DETAILS—PRODUCER TYPES—MOVING GASES—SOLID FUELS—PHYSICAL PROPERTIES OF GASES—CHEMICAL PROPERTIES OF GASES—GAS ANALYSIS—GAS POWER—GAS ENGINES—INDUSTRIAL GAS APPLICATIONS—FURNACES AND KILNS—BURNING LIME AND CEMENT—PRE-HEATING AIR—DOHERTY COMBUSTION ECONOMISER—COMBUSTION IN FURNACES—HEAT: TEMPERATURE, RADIATION AND CONDUCTION—HEAT MEASUREMENTS: PYROMETRY AND CALORIMETRY—PIPES, FLUES, AND CHIMNEYS—MATERIALS: FIRE CLAY, MASONRY, WEIGHTS AND ROPE—USEFUL TABLES—OIL FUEL PRODUCER GAS.

RECIPES, FORMULAS AND PROCESSES, TWENTIETH CENTURY BOOK OF. Edited by GARDNER D. Hiscox, M.E. Nearly 10,000 Scientific, Chemical, Technical, and Household Recipes, Formulas and Processes for Use in the Laboratory and the Office, the Workshop and the Home. Medium 8vo, 800 pp., cloth. Net 12/6

SELECTED LIST OF CONTENTS:—ABSINTHE—ACID PROOFING—ADHESIVES— ALCOHOL—ALKALI—ALLOYS—ALUMINIUM—AMMONIA—ANILINE—ANTIDOTES FOR POISON—ANCHOVY PREPARATIONS—ANTISEPTICS—ANTIQUES—BAKING POWDERS— AROMETERS—BEVERAGES—BLEACHING—BRASS—BRICK—CARBOLIC ACIDS—CASTING— CELLULOID—CHEESE—CERAMICS—CIGARS—COFFEE—CONDIMENTS—COPPER— COSMETICS—COTTON—DIAMOND TESTS—DONARITE—DYES—ELECTRO PLATING— EMBALMING—ENAMELLING—ENGRAVING—ESSENCES—EXPLOSIVES—FERTILISERS— FILTERS—FOOD ADULTERANTS—GELATINE—GLASS—GOLD—GUMS—HARNESS DRESSINGS—HORN—INKS—INSECTICIDES—IRON—IVORY—JEWELLERS' FORMULAS— LACQUERS—LAUNDRY PREPARATIONS—LEATHER—LINOLEUM—LUBRICANTS— MATCHES—METALS—MUSIC BOXES—OILS—PAINTS—PAPER—PERFUMES—PETROLEUM— PHOTOGRAPHY—PLASTER—PLATING—POLISHES—PORCELAIN—POULTRY—PUTTY—RAT POISONS—REFRIGERATION—ROPES—RUBBER—RUST PREVENTIVES—SALT—SCREWS— SILK—SILVER—SOAPS—SOLDERS—SPIRIT—SPONGES—STEEL—STONE— THERMOMETERS—TIN—VALVES—VARNISHES—VETERINARY FORMULAS—WATCHMAKERS' FORMULAS—WATERPROOFING—WAX—WEIGHTS AND MEASURES—WHITEWASH— WOOD—YEAST.

RUBBER HAND STAMPS. And the Manipulation of Rubber. A Practical Treatise on the Manufacture of Indiarubber Hand Stamps, Small Articles of Indiarubber, The Hektograph, Special Inks, Cements, and Allied Subjects. By T. O'CONOR SLOANE A.M., Ph.D. With numerous Illustrations. Square 8vo, cloth 5/0

SAVOURIES AND SWEETS. Suitable for Luncheons and Dinners. By Miss M. L. Allen (Mrs. A. Macaire), Author of "Breakfast Dishes," etc. Thirty-first Edition. F'cap 8vo, sewed 1/0 Or, quarter bound, fancy boards 1/6

SHEET METAL-WORKER'S GUIDE. A Practical Handbook for Tinsmiths, Coppersmiths, Zincworkers, &c., with 46 Diagrams and Working Patterns. By W. J. E. CRANE. Crown 8vo, Cloth 1/6

SHEET METAL-WORKER'S INSTRUCTOR. Comprising Geometrical Problems and Practical Rules for Describing the Various Patterns Required by Zinc, Sheet-Iron, Copper, and Tin-Plate Workers. By R. H. WARN. Third Edition. Revised and Further Enlarged by J. G. HORNER, A.M.I.M.E. Crown 8vo, 280 pp., with 465 Illustrations, cloth 7/6

SILVERSMITH'S HANDBOOK. Alloying and Working of Silver, Refining and Melting, Solders, Imitation Alloys, Manipulation, Prevention of Waste, Improving and Finishing the Surface of the Work, etc. By GEORGE E. GEE. Fourth Edition Revised, Crown 8vo, cloth 3/0

SOAP-MAKING. A Practical Handbook of the Manufacture of Hard and Soft Soaps, Toilet Soaps, etc. With a Chapter on the Recovery of Glycerine from Waste Leys. By ALEXANDER WATT. Seventh Edition, including an Appendix on Modern Candlemaking. Crown 8vo, cloth 7/6

"The work will prove very useful, not merely to the technological student, but to the soap boiler who wishes to understand the theory of his art."—Chemical News.

SOAPS, CANDLES, and GLYCERINE. A Practical Manual of Modern Method of Utilisation of Fats and Oils in the Manufacture of Soap and Candles, and of the recovery of Glycerine. By L. L. LAMBORN, Massachusetts Institute of Technology, M.Am.C.S. Medium 8vo, cloth. Fully Illustrated. 706 pages Net 30/0

THE SOAP INDUSTRY—RAW MATERIALS—BLEACHING AND PURIFICATION OF SOAP-STOCK—THE CHEMICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF SOAP-STOCK AND THEIR BEHAVIOUR TOWARDS SAPONIFYING AGENTS—MECHANICAL EQUIVALENT OF THE SOAP FACTORY—COLD PROCESS AND SEMI-BOILED SOAP—GRAINED SOAP—SETTLED ROSIN SOAP—MILLED SOAP-BASE—FLOATING SOAP—SHAVING SOAP—MEDICATED SOAP—ESSENTIAL OILS AND SOAP PERFUMERY—MILLED SOAP—CANDLES— GLYCERINE—EXAMINATION OF RAW MATERIALS AND FACTORY PRODUCTS.

SOLUBILITIES OF INORGANIC AND ORGANIC SUBSTANCES. A Hand-book of the most Reliable Quantitative Solubility Determinations. Recalculated and Compiled by ATHERTON SEIDELL, Ph.D., Chemist, Hygienic Laboratory, U. S. Public Health Service, Washington, D C. Medium 8vo, cloth, 377 pages Net 12/6

TEA MACHINERY AND TEA FACTORIES. Describing the Mechanical Appliances required in the Cultivation and Preparation of Tea for the Market. By A. J. WALLIS-TAYLER, A.M.Inst.C.E. Medium 8vo, 468 pp. With 218 Illustrations Net 25/0

"The subject of tea machinery is now one of the first interest to a large class of people, to whom we strongly commend the volume."—Chamber of Commerce Journal.

WAGES TABLES. At 54, 52, 50, and 48 Hours per Week. Showing the Amounts of Wages from one quarter of an hour to sixty-four hours, in each case at Rates of Wages advancing by One Shilling from 4s. to 55s. per week. By THOS. CARBUTT, Accountant. Square crown, 8vo, half-bound 6/0

WATCH REPAIRING, CLEANING, AND ADJUSTING. A Practical Handbook dealing with the Materials and Tools Used, and the Methods of Repairing, Cleaning, Altering, and Adjusting all kinds of English and Foreign Watches, Repeaters, Chronographs, and Marine Chronometers. By F. J. GARRARD, Springer and Adjuster of Marine Chronometers and Deck Watches for the Admiralty. Second Edition. Revised. With over 200 Illustrations. Crown 8vo, cloth Net 4/6

WATCHES AND OTHER TIMEKEEPERS, HISTORY OF. By J. F. KENDAL, M.B.H. Inst. 1/6 boards; or cloth 2/6

WATCHMAKER'S HANDBOOK. Intended as a Workshop Companion for those engaged in Watchmaking and the Allied Mechanical Arts. Translated from the French of CLAUDIUS SAUNIER, and enlarged by JULIEN TRIPPLIN, F.R.A.S., and EDWARD RIGG, M.A., Assayer in the Royal Mint. Fourth Edition. Cr. 8vo, cloth 9/0

"Each part is truly a treatise in itself. The arrangement is good and the language is clear and concise. It is an admirable guide for the young watchmaker."—Engineering.

WEIGHT CALCULATOR. Being a Series of Tables upon a New and Comprehensive Plan, exhibiting at one Reference the Exact Value of any Weight from 1 lb. to 15 tons, at 300 Progressive Rates, from 1d. to 168s. per cwt., and containing 186,000 Direct Answers, which, with their Combinations, consisting of a single addition (mostly to be performed at sight), will afford an aggregate of 10,266,000 Answers; the whole being calculated and designed to ensure correctness and promote despatch. By HENRY HARBEN, Accountant. Sixth edition, carefully corrected. Royal 8vo, strongly half bound L1 5s.

"A practical and useful work of reference for men of business generally."—Ironmonger.

"Of priceless value to business men."—Sheffield Independent.

WOOD ENGRAVING. A Practical and Easy Introduction to the Study of the Art. By W. N. BROWN. Crown 8vo, cloth. 1/6



HANDYBOOKS FOR HANDICRAFTS.

BY PAUL N. HASLUCK.

Author of "Lathe Work," etc. Crown 8vo, 144 pp., price 1s. each.

[symbol: right pointing hand]These HANDYBOOKS have been written to supply information for WORKMEN STUDENTS, and AMATEURS in the several Handicrafts, on the actual PRACTICE of the WORKSHOP, and are intended to convey in plain language TECHNICAL KNOWLEDGE of the several CRAFTS. In describing the processes employed, and the manipulation of material, workshop terms are used; workshop practice is fully explained; and the text is freely illustrated with drawings of modern tools, appliances, and processes.