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In this group there was no installation by foreign women.
In group 53 there was nothing unusual displayed that would lead one to think that women were more capable of executing more advanced work than they accomplished eleven years ago.
In the Louisiana Purchase Exposition woman's work was installed in such a manner and not being specified, one could not tell where their work began and where it left off. As to the appreciation of woman's work, it was taken as a whole and was judged as a work of mankind. Women's work and men's work of to-day would be hard to separate. Perhaps if women's work could be brought out more prominently it would be better for them. No work was displayed in such a manner as to enable one to distinguish between the two. In the manufacture of personal effects, the larger proportion was women's work. No woman received an award in group 53 to my knowledge.
As has been said before, the operation of machines is especially women's work. Women were not the inventors, but they displayed ingenuity and skill in the operation—application. Although they are not the original inventors, it is a well-known fact that many improvements are women's suggestions. Their working at the machines and the ingenuity and taste displayed in the choice of work was of marked value as an exposition attraction.
Group 61. Various industries connected with clothing (processes and products).—Class 383, hats; hats of felt, wool, straw, silk; caps, trimmings for hats. Class 384, artificial flowers for dressing the hair, for dress and for all other uses. Feathers, millinery, hair: coiffures, wigs, switches. Class 385, shirts and underclothing for men, women, and children. Class 386, hosiery of cotton, wool, silk, and floss silk, etc.; knitted hosiery, cravats, and neckties. Class 387, corsets and corset fittings. Class 388, elastic goods, suspenders, garters, belts. Class 389, canes, whips, riding whips, sunshades, parasols, umbrellas. Class 390, buttons; buttons of china, metal, cloth, silk, mother-of-pearl or other shell, ivory, nut, horn, bone, papier-mache, etc. Class 391, buckles, eyelets, hooks and eyes, pins, needles, etc. Class 392, fans and hand screens.
Owing to Mr. Farmer being called to his home, Mrs. Ella E. Lane Bowes, secretary of group 53, served as secretary of group 61 also. Group 61 was composed of 11 individuals, 7 men and 4 women, with an American for chairman and a Frenchman for secretary, and two vice-chairmen.
Group 61 contained 30 classes. Within this group there was no especial exhibit by women, although their work stood out in prominence.
The most striking display was the corset display of Birdsey & Sumers, of New York. The corsets were shown on wax half-size figures, the color scheme being carried out in detail to match the corset. The most prominent figure was one done in white satin and real lace with jewel clasps, etc. This display, from its artistic arrangement and elegant materials was in conformity with the French exhibits. With the exception of the jewels, it was purely of American production; and the arrangement and display of the exhibit was due to an American woman, an employee of the manufacturer.
Another notable display was that of Kops Brothers, of New York. They exhibited the "Nemo" corset and the "Smart Set," in an artistic manner. The arrangement of this display was also due to a woman.
Strouse-Adler & Co., New York City, showed a practical exhibit of what was termed by the exposition officials a "live exhibit," manufacturing garments from start to finish, and was an attractive display. These demonstrations were by women.
In the exhibit of the American Hosiery Company, New Britain, Conn., the goods were up to the high standard of the "Grand Prix."
The Lewis Knitting Company, Janesville, Wis., made an attractive display, and the writer was told at this exhibit that the garments were brought to a high state of perfection through the ingenuity of Mrs. Lewis.
The Wayne Knitting Mills, Fort Wayne, Ind., made a very beautiful display of fine knit goods, the work of women.
The Kleinert Rubber Company, New York City, made an artistic display of fancy things and were assisted in the arrangement of same by a woman. This exhibit should have special mention for having had everything in place and on time before opening day, which could not be said of many others. I was told that here also many of the improvements were the suggestions of women.
Many of the finest exhibits in this group were ladies' lingerie. There were many creditable exhibits of women's underwear, the work of their hands, and marvelous creations in bead embroidery, lace, and artificial flowers.
A most brilliant display was made by the Rosenthal-Sloan Millinery Company, consisting of artificial flowers manufactured by women. This artistic display was said to have been suggested and carried out in detail by a woman. A unique feature of this display was a map of the United States, each State being formed with its adopted flower, the States being outlined in golden rod, the proposed national flower.
The writer understood that in some of the underwear and hosiery mills women were superintendents of departments and employed in great numbers in other work, the proportion of women to men being between 80 and 90 per cent.
The J.B. Stetson Company, of Philadelphia, Pa., made a good practical display of hats, and in their line the finished product was equal to any in the world, and showed great progress since the Columbian Exposition, when the writer had the pleasure of judging their exhibit. The average of woman's work is about equal.
In this group the advancement in special industries has been in the processes of women's work in the knit goods and corsets, which show greatest improvement. The creditable work shown in the arrangement and display of exhibits by suggestions and carrying out of detail by women leads one to think that women are more remarkable along these lines of work and have accomplished much in the last eleven years, since the time of the Chicago Exposition, or at any time in the past.
Their work was more individualized in former expositions, while in the latter it was impossible to draw comparisons in the advancement or success of women's work, the work not being placed in such a way as to enable one to judge whether it was solely that of women or men. All work was exhibited as the work of mankind in general, and could not be classified under the head of either women's or men's work.
Where manufacturers were questioned relative to the percentage of women working in their establishments, they gladly answered the questions.
No woman received an award in this group.
Among the useful and distinctive inventions shown were the garter supporters, well known to be the invention of a woman.
The underwear in general, corsets, and accessories are more useful and more healthful from a physical standpoint, especially the corsets of to-day. This is an advancement.
There was more ingenuity displayed in the installation and taste in artistic arrangement of the exhibits, making them of greater value as exposition attractions; whereas in former expositions Philadelphia was experimental, the World's Columbian Exposition educational, and the Louisiana Purchase Exposition exploitive.
There is no reason why women should not have a large representation, if not equal with men, in all expositions. While they may not be the real inventors of the machines, devices, etc., they many times are the suggestors. Being the spenders and buyers for the home and family makes them more competent as judges of merchandise of all kinds and quicker to note improvements.
In the work of the world, especially in anything pertaining to the home, educational matters, arts, and professions, women hold such a prominent place to-day, almost exclusively doing the work in the manufacture of articles and habiliments for creature comforts, that it is impossible to ignore them.
Summary of groups 53 and 61 (jury composed of 19 persons).—In previous world's fairs they were called judges, but at this one they were "jurors."
It would be well to dwell upon the vastness of the work accomplished by the petit jury within a brief period of time, for they were in constant work for twenty days, from morning till night, visiting the many exhibits. Upon examination, the value of the commodity or product was decided and the usefulness of the same and comparisons made with similar exhibits, consultation in jury meetings, where the many good points of the exhibits were presented and discussed, and a final decision was reached by vote of the jury as a whole.
The various machines were for the manufacture of women's habiliments, with the much-needed garment-drafting machine, which, if not invented by women, was at their suggestion and creation of the demand for supplies.
The up-to-date paper patterns, wax figures, papier-mache forms, milliners' findings, and sewing machines made the grand whole. The finished products were the marvelous creations of her hands, for, as truly said, man did invent these machines, but women work and bring forth the grand finale, therefore one is not complete without the other. In all things it takes the good work of men and women to complete the whole. And this applies to jury work as well.
From the writer's experience in expositions up to date she would approve the combination of the John Boyd Thatcher individual judge and diploma systems, together with the bronze, silver, gold, and "grand prix," which would be preferable from an educational standpoint and also to show to the world what the medal was given for. Also, the group or petit jury doing the work should combine with a larger jury, and perhaps a court of appeal, it being impossible for anyone in a higher court to know the why and the wherefore of the workers of the petit jury; and as far as the writer could learn it was the concensus of opinion of both exhibitors and jurors, as heretofore stated, that the opportunity to hold to the last was more preferable.
As an observer of the workings of world's fairs from the Centennial at Philadelphia, and also being closely allied with other great fairs, having visited same since that time and being a judge heretofore, will repeat the general remark of exhibitors and judges of former expositions. The consensus of opinion was that "no world's fair was complete without a jury composed of men and women, a just representation," working in unison and perfect accord with only one end in view—justice to all.
Group 61 (combined with 53, as above), Mrs. A.G. Harrow, Ottumwa, Iowa, Juror.
Under the group heading, "Various industries connected with clothing," the ten classes into which it was divided represented (processes and products): Hats; hats of felt, wool, straw, silk; caps, trimmings for hats. Artificial flowers for dressing the hair, for dress, and for all other uses. Feathers. Millinery. Hair; coiffures, wigs, switches. Shirts and underclothing for men, women, and children. Hosiery of cotton, wool, silk, and floss silk, etc.; knitted hosiery; cravats and neckties. Corsets and corset fittings. Elastic goods, suspenders, garters, belts. Canes, whips, riding whips, sunshades, parasols, umbrellas. Buttons, buttons of china, metal, cloth, silk, mother-of-pearl, or other shell, ivory, nut, horn, bone, papier-mache, etc. Buckles, eyelets, hooks and eyes, pins, needles, etc. Fans and hand screens.
Mrs. Harrow reports as follows:
The work of group 53, of which I was a member, did not take us very extensively among the women exhibitors of the exposition, but in every instance where their work came under our observation or inspection they demonstrated their marked ability in the manner and taste shown in their display, and in some instances, where their competitors were men, they proved the fact that if their work was not superior, it was at least equal to that of the men.
In my opinion it is better for women's work to come in competition with that of men and not be separated.
All women in general, I feel sure, must have been greatly benefited by having a fair representation at the exposition, as it could not but help placing a higher standard upon all women's work, and that work in particular in which she excelled.
And as woman's work receives benefit, and also success by being placed on equal terms of comparison with that of men, so likewise may man's work receive helpful suggestions and real advancement by being brought into competition with the work of women.
Group 58 (later combined with Group 59), Mrs. E.D. Wood, Indianapolis, Ind., Juror.
Under the group heading "Laces, embroidery, and trimmings," the seven classes into which it was divided represented: Lace made by hand, laces, blond or guipure, wrought on pillow or with the needle or crochet, made of flax, cotton, silk, wool, gold, silver, or other threads. Laces made by machinery; tulles, plain or embroidered; imitation lace, blond and guipure, in thread of every kind. Embroidery made by hand; embroidery by needle or crochet, with thread of every kind, on all kinds of grounds (fabric, net, tulle, skin, etc.), including needlework upon canvas, as well as embroidery applique or ornamented with gems, pearls, jet, spangles of metal or other material, feathers, shells, etc. Embroidery made by machinery, with the foundation preserved, or with the foundation cut or burned away. Trimmings; galloons, lace or braids, fringes, tassels, all kinds of applique and ornamental work, handmade or woven, for millinery or garments, ecclesiastical vestments, civil or military uniforms; for furniture, saddlery, carriages, etc.; threads and plates of metal, gold or silver, real or imitation, spangles, chenilles, and all other articles used for trimmings. Church embroidery; church ornaments and linen; altar cloths, banners, and other objects for religious ceremonies in fabrics ornamented with lace, embroideries and trimmings. Curtains, with lace, guipure, or embroidery, upon tulle or fabrics; blinds, screens, portieres, lambrequins, and other draperies, ornamented with lace, embroidery, and trimmings.
Mrs. Wood writes:
Our jury was a large one—about thirty members. They came from France, Germany, Austria-Hungary, China, Japan, Great Britain, Mexico, Porto Rico; the other members were Americans, and represented the different States. The work we were to do was what was known as "groups 58 and 59," and covered so much ground we found that in order to finish in the required time we would have to divide our jury, so that some were detailed to examine embroidery, others costumes, trimming, laces, etc. I was on the lace committee. Laces made by hand, wrought on pillows, by needle or crochet, silk, wool, gold, silver, or thread, machine-made laces, imitation, embroidered tulles, and lace curtains. It would be impossible to describe the beauties of the lovely laces, the time, patience, and labor given to them. We examined the exhibits in the Manufacturers' Building, Varied Industries, all foreign buildings. The work done by women in the Philippines, Porto Rico, Mexican and Alaskan exhibits was as fine in texture and as beautiful as imported laces. The work in every instance was as handsome as that shown at the Chicago World's Fair, but perhaps not on so large a scale.
I was a member of a committee of four appointed to adjust the losses on the handsome imported costumes and wraps in the French section that were damaged during a wind and rain storm that swept over the exposition grounds during the summer and damaged the building and the immense glass cases containing these valuable goods, the loss of which amounted to hundreds of dollars to the Exposition Company.
Group 59 (combined with Group 58 above), Mrs. William S. Major, Shelbyville, Ind., Juror.
Under the group heading "Industries producing wearing apparel for men, women, and children," the four classes into which it was divided represented: Clothing to measure for men and boys; ordinary costumes, suits for hunting and riding, leather breeches and similar articles; suits for gymnastic uses and games, military and civil uniforms, campaign clothing of special types, robes and costumes for magistrates, members of the bar, professors, ecclesiastics, etc., liveries, various costumes for children. Clothing, ready-made, for men and boys. Clothing to measure for women and girls; dresses, vests, jackets, cloaks (made by ladies' tailors, dressmakers, or cloak makers), riding habits, sporting suits. Clothing, ready-made, for women and girls. Patterns.
Mrs. Major reports as follows:
In group 58, Department of Manufactures, the proportional number of exhibits by women contained in these classes was small—I would think about 10 per cent. Groups 58 and 59 exhibited laces, embroideries, trimmings, decorations for gowns, costumes, and wraps, drawn work and Tenneriffe. Art needlework was the most striking exhibit by women in that department. Women showed great advancement in each industry, without question. Very few exhibits were installed by foreign women; the foreign costumes were largely from the man tailor. The needlework in the Visayan Village of the Philippine exhibit was of a very high order, but no provision was made to grant awards upon this—the Philippine exhibit—and Miss Anna Woolf, of St. Louis, and I called the attention of the authorities to the deserving character of the exhibit and made a plea for awards to be made by the higher jurors, and they promised to do so. I do not know whether it was done or not, however, but there was no woman's work in the whole Louisiana Purchase Exposition more deserving or of higher grade than the needlework in that village exhibit. Enough can not be said of these little workers. The present age is one of superiority, in which women not only show their ability, but each year they are granted more, and more widespread becomes their ability to grasp all vocations and fill them most creditably.
I am confident there was no question of the interest shown by men in woman's work; in fact, I think it attracted more visitors, and the results would not have been better if their work had been separately exhibited.
The work shown at the Louisiana Purchase Exposition was on a much greater and higher plane than ever has been exhibited before. Where women exhibited they received a greater number of awards in proportion. Miss Mary Williamson was an original designer of artistic needlework, showing exceptional talent, and was awarded a grand prix for her designs.
I attended the Paris Exposition of 1878, also the Centennial at Philadelphia, 1876; spent much time at the Columbian World's Fair in Chicago, and possess a diploma and gold medal for my artistic needlework exhibited at the Columbian Exposition.
Miss Margaret Summers, of Louisville, Ky., was also a juror in the above-combined groups 58 and 59, and writes:
In group 59 the costumes made by men were about twice as many as those made by women, though the handsomest of the exhibits was the work of a woman, Caroline, of Chicago.
All the work done by women showed a great improvement over that exhibited at the Chicago Exposition, not only in the cut and design, but in the artistic finish and the care given to every detail.
The hand work was a special feature of all the garments for women in the lingerie, gowns, and manteaux.
The most intricate designs were executed in a manner betokening the true artist, and none but those educated in the art of combining colors and in designing could have obtained the results seen at St. Louis.
The tendency in all garments for women, however, was toward the ornate rather than the simple, and with but few exceptions every gown, every wrap, and all the lingerie was most elaborate. But the hand of the true artist was shown in these garments in that they were beautiful and in good taste in spite of their elaborateness.
It would have been advantageous if the women's work had been arranged separate from the men's, because they would have attracted more attention as a woman's exhibit per se and would therefore have called greater attention to the progress women have made in these lines. In other words, the separate exhibit would have served better for a comparative study of woman's advancement in the past ten years.
There was a greater variety of woman's work than was shown at the Chicago Exposition, and that in itself showed an advancement. The greater scope gave evidence of a broadening influence, and the women showed themselves proficient in all they undertook.
As compared with the work of men, I should say that the women's exhibit had every right to be placed side by side with the men's, just as was done.
In Group 58 was eventually placed the wonderful piece of embroidery of the "Sistine Madonna," the work of Miss Ripberger, of Berlin. The linen upon which the life-like figures were wrought was probably 6 by 8 feet in size, and in order to reproduce the colors the silk had been matched with the colors in the original painting. The reproduction of Raphael's wonderful work was a marvel of artistic ability and patience, and was exquisitely executed. It justly deserved the grand prix accorded it.
Department H, agriculture, Mr. Frederic W. Taylor, chief, comprised 27 groups and 137 classes, the board of lady managers being represented in but five groups.
Group 78, Mrs. W.H. Felton, of Cartersville, Ga., Juror.
Under the heading of "Farm equipment—Methods of improving lands," the three classes into which it was divided represented: Specimens of various systems of farming. Plans and models of farm buildings; general arrangement; stables, sheepfolds, barns, pigsties, breeding grounds; special arrangements for breeding and fattening cattle; granaries and silos; furniture for stables, barns, kennels, etc. Material and appliances used in agricultural engineering, reclaiming of marshes, drainage, irrigation.
Mrs. Felton says, in a letter accompanying her report:
In accordance with your official request, I have prepared a short resume of the work as juror in Group Jury No. 78. It was the central group—I mean, the leading group in the Department of Agriculture. There were no exhibits by women, because we passed upon matters so immense that it was the work of States and foreign governments, rather than of individuals, that was noted.
Mrs. Felton's report is as follows:
I was selected as a juror for Group Jury No. 78, and entered upon the duties assigned me on September 1, 1904.
Group Jury No. 78 organized, and after the chairman and vice-chairman were selected I was made secretary, which position I held until the minutes and report were handed in to the office of Hon. Fred. W. Taylor, chief of Department of Agriculture, on September 19.
As secretary, the work of the Group Jury No. 78 came immediately under my supervision, and I found the work exceedingly pleasant, and my colleagues (all the members were gentlemen except myself) were most agreeable, and we concluded our work without the least friction or antagonism to the close.
Group No. 78 was the first on the list in the general Department of Agriculture. It covered exhibits on main lines, other groups taking what I might term subdivisions.
We examined farm improvement as related to inventions and devices which were intended as fixtures to farm buildings. Group No. 79 was devoted to such exhibits as were movable.
To illustrate: No. 78 collected data and awarded prizes on barn gates, doors, hay carriers, silos, windmills, pumps, etc., while No. 79 was concerned with thrashers, plows, and the various implements which are not sold with farm buildings as necessary fixtures.
Having lived an active life on a Georgia plantation for fifty years, all these matters were of exceeding interest to the secretary, although a woman.
Our jury made an exhaustive examination of the exhibits of irrigation models, with various reports and statistics, that were carried to St. Louis. Germany made the finest exhibit as to number and completeness, and I feel sure there never has been such a far-reaching display of irrigation methods in the United States before. I was intimately connected with the Columbian Exposition, as a lady manager from Georgia and chairman of the woman's executive committee in the Cotton States and International Exposition, and I feel I speak advisedly when I tell you that nothing I have ever seen compares with the agricultural exhibits of the St. Louis Exposition, as uncovered to my view in performing the duties of a juror, especially in regard to the greatest problem of the twentieth century, namely, in regard to irrigation and its future possibilities for our various States and Territories. You will understand, of course, women had no part in the various governmental works where land has been reclaimed and converted into the finest farming lands known to this era, but in the results which followed such reclamation the farmer's wife and daughter has been seen and felt everywhere, although no percentage of women's work was noted in the exhibits examined by Group Jury No. 78.
Germany, Italy, Belgium, and France were prominent, and the States of Utah, Montana, California, and Louisiana gave most satisfactory evidences of advanced progress by irrigation in farming methods.
In the Belgian exhibit we were shown the beautiful and remarkable flax grown in the irrigated districts, the material from which the finest lace, known as the Brussels product, is constructed. If the investigation had been pursued to the limit, every benefit, or profit, or financial opportunity resulting from the improvement of farms, abroad or at home, touches somewhere the lives of our farm women in comfort and happiness.
Our jury passed upon the magnificent exhibit made by the State of Missouri in the Agricultural Palace—the finest State exhibit known to this continent—up to date in agriculture.
The construction of an elegant lay figure, made entirely of corn shucks and corn silks, representing a lady of style and fashion, was the handiwork of a woman and richly deserved the prize that was awarded.
Group No. 78 being confined to general lines, and covering the idea of farm improvement on an extended scale, grasping, as it were, the great and fundamental principles of modern agriculture, the work of the sexes was not indicated by the exhibitors. The percentage of each was not required by instructions given to Group Jury No. 78.
It gives me great pleasure to thank you and the board of lady managers for kind attentions, and the opportunity for pleasure and instruction in this group jury work, and to assure you that it was my constant aim and purpose to prove to my colleagues and to Chief Taylor that your trust and confidence had not been misplaced in assigning me to jury duty in so important a place.
Group 84, under the group heading "Vegetable food products—Agricultural seeds," was divided into eight classes, which represented: Cereals—wheat, rye, barley, maize, millet, and other cereals in sheaves or in grain. Legumes and their seeds—beans, peas, lentils, etc. Tuber and roots and their seeds—potatoes, beets, carrots, turnips, radishes, etc. Miscellaneous vegetables and their seeds—cabbages, peppers, artichokes, mushrooms, cresses, etc. Sugar-producing plants—beets, cane, sorghum, etc. Miscellaneous plants and their products—coffee, tea, cocoa, etc. Oil-producing plants and their products. Forage, growing, green, cured, or in silos; fodder for cattle; forage, grass, and field seeds.
Neither the principal nor alternate in this group were able to serve.
Group 89, Mrs. E.L. Lamb, Jackson, Miss., Juror.
Under the group heading "Preserved meat, fish, vegetables, and fruit," the eight classes into which it was divided represented: Meat preserved by any process. Salted meats, canned meats. Meat and soup tablets. Meat extracts. Various pork products. Fish preserved by any process. Salt fish, fish in barrels, cod, herring, etc. Fish preserved in oil—tuny, sardines, anchovies. Canned lobsters, canned oysters, canned shrimps. Vegetables preserved by various processes. Fruits dried or prepared, prunes, figs, raisins, dates. Fruits preserved without sugar. Fruits, canned, in tins or in glass. Army and Navy commissary stores and equipment.
No report.
Group 88, Mrs. F.H. Pugh, Bellevue, Nebr., Juror.
Under the group heading "Bread and pastry," the two classes into which it was divided represented: Breads with or without yeast, fancy breads, and breads in molds, compressed breads for travelers, military campaigns, etc. Ship biscuits. Yeasts. Baking powders. Pastry of various kinds peculiar to each country. Ginger bread and dry cakes for keeping.
Mrs. Pugh reports substantially as follows:
The nature of the exhibits in group 88 were angel food cake, pickles, bread, fruit cake, Purina Mills exhibit, the most striking exhibit being a California fruit cake, made by Mrs. Rose E. Bailey, which weighed 81 pounds. The exhibits showed advancement in the science of good cooking, all the exhibits being installed by American women, no foreign women that I can recall participating, and the display was more creditable than at the Chicago Exposition, in that the exhibitors showed more confidence in themselves and their work, more attention being given also to the purity and healthfulness of their food exhibits. Their work, as shown at the Louisiana Purchase Exposition, would most certainly prove helpful or suggestive to those interested in the advancement and success of women's work by their exhibition of success already achieved, and the work of women, it is believed, was as well appreciated when placed by the side of that of men, and the results would not have been better had their work been separately exhibited. No manufacturers that I knew of, excepting the Purina Mills (Ralston) exhibition, were asked to state the percentage of woman's work that entered into the manufacture of their special exhibits, and only by one or two exhibits was it in a measure indicated in any way which part had been performed by woman, which by men; but, in my opinion, probably about one-tenth of the work was performed by women in this group. There were eight women exhibitors out of a total of sixty-three applications.
In the exhibits in this department daintier manipulation and more regard for purity of foods was shown than in the past, and in the construction of individual booths Mrs. Buchanan's pickles, Mrs. Gautz (Northwestern Yeast Company), and Mrs. Haffner's Swansdown flour deserve special mention. The exhibits of the women did not show special development of original inventions, but were mainly improvements and greater skill in handling the products, the greatest labor-saving machine being Werner's domestic machinery; but it is presumed this is the invention of man only, and that while women took no part in constructing that their installations were a credit to the most wonderful of all expositions and were a great attraction to visitors.
I am frank to say that as I look back upon our work there, the women who made the greatest effort to add to the attractiveness of the Agricultural Palace did not receive all the awards they deserved, namely, Mrs. Rose E. Bailey, to whom was awarded a grand prize for the ingenuity of her exhibit, never heard of the award; Mrs. Bertha E. Haffner, representing Swansdown flour, should have had a grand prize for her cakes, since a grand prize was awarded Mrs. Gautz for bread. This was the consensus of opinion of jurors in group 88.
The coffee exhibits employing women, and the flours—Pillsbury, Washburne, and Crosby, the banana flours, North Dakota flour exhibitors, Sanitas Nut Company, breakfast foods—were all in the charge of women, all of whom deserve special mention for their unfailing courtesies to sightseers.
It warms my heart yet just to think of the dear old Palace of Agriculture, and the many delightful hours spent there in our work. I desire to specially commend the kindness received by those in charge of the Brazilian Pavilion and Machin Brothers' French bakery.
Group 90, Miss Carolyn Hempstead (now Mrs. C.M.F. Riley), Little Rock, Ark, Juror.
Under the group heading "Sugar and confectionery—Condiments and relishes," the eight classes into which it was divided represented: Sugar. Glucose. Confectionery. Chocolate. Brandied fruits, preserves, jellies. Coffee, tea, substitutes for coffee—mate, chicory and sweet acorns. Vinegar. Table salt. Spices and extracts; pepper, cinnamon, allspice, etc.; flavoring extracts. Mixed condiments and relishes; mustard, curries, sauces, etc.
Mrs. Riley reports as follows:
Department of Agriculture, group 90. In this group there were not as many women exhibitors as seemingly might have been expected, as women have always been the exponents of this domestic science, and have been called the "ministering angels" to man's needs; have feasted his eyes and fed his stomach from times immemorial with their sweetmeats. Eve, even, perhaps made Adam happy with sun-dried figs. Who knows?
All told, there were not over thirty women exhibitors, and the exhibits consisted of preserves, jellies, jams, marmalades, pickles, relishes, candied fruits, crystallized flowers—excellent in their quality and most beautifully put up and hygienically sealed. In this, the science of our grandmothers, much of their wisdom and practice clings to the art of producing and effecting the good result which were displayed before us; but if the exhibitors did have recourse to the old cookery books, the manner of showing the exhibits, the attractive booths, the managing ability, the business methods were the attributes of the women of to-day—the advancing, the farseeing business woman.
There were no foreigners in this class. The exhibitors of the guava jellies and foreign preserves were men. Man in all countries has been prone to reach out and gather in the best that women have had to give, and in this branch of trade has so enlarged and sometimes, may I add, adulterated the old recipes, and with his money and his army of employees has established great pickling and preserving plants designed to feed the world's masses.
In most cases the pureness, the sweetest, the old touch of "homemade" is gone, and only until the domestic woman, by dint of hard pressure, has been driven out into the world to gain her own livelihood, has this pure homemade article been put upon the market. "Pin-money" pickles are now a household word—made by a woman in Virginia, who started by making for her friends and neighbors, but whose industry has grown now to immense proportions.
In the exhibits by women at the St. Louis exposition two exhibits were worthy of unusual merit—one a fruit cake containing 41 varieties of preserved fruits, and weighing 81 pounds, made by Mrs. Rose A. Bailey, of California. Mrs. Bailey preserved these fruits in sugar only. Her collection of jellies, etc., received the warmest praise, and so much has been said that she is now contemplating the forwarding of a "Home-prepared fruit agency" to be handled by women only.
The other exhibit was the crystallized rose leaves and violets, by another California woman—so made that the sugar could be peeled off, leaving the rose leaf or violet intact and perfect in its coloring and form.
These were the odd and new exhibits. A long line of clear jellies and good pickles and toothsome relishes was most willingly judged and more willingly tasted. A most attractive exhibit of these were in the booth of Mrs. Nathalie Claibourne Buchanan, representing an old Virginia kitchen, its open fireplace with the fire logs in the background, the high mantel with its rows of preserves and pickles, and a dear old black "mammy" in kerchief and bandana as a most fitting setting to the scene.
No woman received the highest award, the grand prix, but some were given the gold medal.
In the exhibits of the large manufacturers there was no way to tell what part of the labor had been performed by women; but on the printed forms the proportion of women laborers was quite often given, but it is a known fact that two-thirds of the work of these large factories is done by women and girls.
This should be a wide avenue for women to enter the marts of life, but on the small scale it is so underpaid in proportion to the labor expended that but few are bold enough to enter.
Department J, horticulture, Mr. Frederic W. Taylor, chief, comprised 7 groups and 27 classes, the board of lady managers being represented in but one group.
Group 107, Mrs. M.B.R. Day, Frankfort, Ky., Juror.
Under the group heading "Pomology," the six classes into which it was divided represented: Pomaceous and stone fruits—apples, pears, quinces, cherries, plums, peaches, apricots, nectarines, etc. Citrus fruits—oranges, lemons, limes, shaddocks, pomelos, etc. Tropical and subtropical fruits—pineapples, bananas, guavas, mangos, tamarinds, figs, olives, sepodillas, etc. Small fruits—strawberries, raspberries, blackberries, dewberries, gooseberries, currants, etc. Nuts—almonds, chestnuts, filberts, pecans, hickorynuts, walnuts, etc. Casts and models of fruits in wax, plaster, etc.
Mrs. Day says, in substance, in her replies to the questions: That she can not give an approximate number of women who exhibited in this group, but that the nature of the exhibits shown were fruits—grapes, apples, etc.—and flowers, the most striking exhibits being by florists and fruit culturists, and that women have entered many more branches of this work in recent years; that she believes their work shown at the Louisiana Purchase Exposition would prove helpful and suggestive by reason of the great care taken in the exhibits. Mrs. Day does not think any difference was shown in appreciation of the exhibits of women when placed by the side of men, and hardly thinks the result would have been better had the work of women been separately exhibited. This seems to be almost the only department where exhibits were shown in such manner as to indicate whether they were the work of men or women, as all exhibits were marked distinctly with the name of the owner of fruit, farm, or florist, the exhibits of New Mexico and Oklahoma being each in charge of very intelligent women. Some of the finest fruit farms sending exhibits were owned by women, and women also made some of the best displays of fruits and, flowers.
Department N, anthropology, Prof. W J McGee, chief, comprised 4 groups and 5 classes, the board of lady managers being accorded representation upon each.
Group 126, Miss Alice C. Fletcher, Washington, D.C., Juror.
Under the group heading "Somatology," the two classes into which it was divided represented: Physical characteristics of man; the comparative and special anatomy of races and peoples; specimens, casts, measurements, charts, and photographs representing typical and comparative characteristics. Anthropometry; measurements, charts, diagrams, etc., showing the methods and results of comparative studies on the physical structure of living races; instruments and appliances used in anthropometric investigations.
Miss Fletcher reports:
In the Department of Anthropology there were no distinctive exhibits by women that I can recall, for the work of women in that field was represented in the general student body of the science.
In archaeology, Mrs. Zelia Nuttall's investigations in Mexico were represented in the publications of the Peabody Museum of Harvard University and the University of California. Miss Boyd's remarkable excavations at Gournia, Crete, were in connection with the Archaeological Institute of America, and the University of Pennsylvania. The contributions of these two and of Miss Breton, an English woman, who has made copies in color of the disappearing mural decorations in Central America, rank among the recent notable archaeological researches.
In somatology, the exhibit of Bryn Mawr College showed so marked a comprehension of the value of this line of study and its observations and the results in this branch of science, were so clearly and well presented as to receive a special award.
In ethnology, the work of women in this branch was included in the publications of scientific bodies and universities. In the collections exhibited the articles obtained by women were indiscriminately arranged with those gathered by men so as to make the exhibits of value and of interest.
In reply to the questions as to whether woman's work was as well appreciated when placed side by side with that of men, as when separately exhibited, I would say, that the trend of opinion at the present time is to judge of work by its character and quality rather than by the sex of the worker. Every woman student desires only such judgment to be passed on her work and is grateful that the day has come when she can be so dealt with.
Again, as to a comparison between the exhibits of woman's work at previous expositions and at the one held in St. Louis; as I have visited nearly all since that of the Centennial, I think that no one could fail to note the fairer estimate put on woman's work at the, recent exposition than was ever before granted. From the days of the childhood of the race to the present time it has always been impossible to draw a hard and fast line between the labors of men and those of women, their work has continually interchanged and overlapped. What has been woman's work in one age has become man's in another. The history of textile industries is a well known case in point. Such being the fact, it is in keeping with the truth of the past and the present time, not to attempt to exhibit separately that which has always been interwoven.
In anthropology the number of women students is small, but the work accomplished by these few has been creditable, and has received its due recognition.
The Indian school exhibit came under the Department of Anthropology, and several women received awards for special accomplishments.
Looking over the field of woman's work as presented at the St. Louis Exposition, one is convinced of the growth of a healthful recognition of her labors in the upbuilding of social life, both in the ideal and the practical, and can not fail to note the uses to which she is putting the widening opportunities for her higher education.
Group 127, Mrs. Alice Palmer Henderson, of Tacoma, Wash., Juror.
Under the group heading "Ethnology" there was but one class, representing illustration of the growth of culture; the origin and development of arts and industries; ceremonies, religious rites, and games; social and domestic manners and customs; languages and origin of writing.
Mrs. Henderson says:
In the Department of Anthropology in the Louisiana Purchase Exposition there were but few individual exhibits, those being principally in the section of history. Women have always been the chief heralds of family and conservators of family records and relics. The Daughters of the Revolution have stimulated research, restoration, and preservation along historical lines. For the first time in exposition management a department of history had its own commissioner and that commissioner was a woman. Miss Hayward justified this decidedly new step by her services. I think I am right in asserting that she was the first woman commissioner on the board of any international exposition.[A] The section of history was part of the Department of Anthropology.
[Footnote A: Mrs. Potter Palmer and Mrs. Daniel Manning were appointed by President McKinley to serve as commissioners at the Paris Exposition, 1900.]
New, too, was representation on the jury of anthropology of workers in Indian affairs, as represented in the model Indian school, containing, as it did, so large a proportion of women's work in exhibits from different tribes and sections of the country, and of the suggested work of the white woman teachers. Of these latter was the juror, Miss Peters, of the domestic science department. Advancement along these lines since the Columbian Exposition is undoubted, except in the matter of such Indian arts as basketry and rug making. If there be any reason for the existence of a raffia basket in hideous aniline hues it doth not yet appear. I think this bastard has usurped the place of the Indians' beautiful art of long descent, and it is distressing. White teachers who presume to instruct the Indians in basket making, or who substitute hairpin lace and the like, have much to answer for.
I noted no particular advance in anthropology among women since the Columbian Exposition, when I served upon the same jury in the same distinguished company—Mrs. Zelia Nuttall and Miss Alice Fletcher. In other more tangible departments, so to speak, and at other expositions, I have noted a steady advance in woman's work and in the spread of her domain. The time has long past when it should be segregated, as kindergarten efforts are from regular school work.
I recall no anthropological exhibit by foreign women at the Louisiana Purchase Exposition. In fact, American women undoubtedly lead in such study, investigation, exploration, and publication. In their own country the opportunity is great, especially in ethnology, because of the thousands of barbarous people among us and savages upon our borders. Tribes still in the stone age are our actual contemporaries. Women, quick to grasp, able to ingratiate themselves, are peculiarly fitted to gather the folklore of the Indians, their songs and myths and ceremonials—weird, rich, beautiful as those of the ancient Greeks. Miss Fletcher, who at St. Louis served upon the section of psychometry, has done much for both ethnology and the coming school of American music in rescuing and preserving the Indian songs.
What has been accomplished in archaeology by women was best exhibited in the attainments, translations, and publications of another member of the jury of anthropology, Mrs. Zelia Nuttall, as well known in Europe as in this country. Woman's acknowledged intuition, patience, and enthusiasm are factors of great value in the problem of reducing to one common denominator the life and works of bygone man from his archeological remains.
It seems to me of great importance to emphasize the work of women at such expositions. What woman has done, woman can do, is an invaluable suggestion borne in upon many minds of latent possibilities which, developed, might greatly benefit humanity. The most important exhibits at any great exposition are never seen, only felt.
Miss Cora Peters, Department of the Interior, United States Indian Service, Chilocco, Okla., as mentioned by Mrs. Henderson, also served in this Department, and briefly says:
I have not been able to give very definite replies as I had so little time to investigate the work. I served on the section of Indian education, and the work of the women was usually better than that of the men, and in every case they were more persistent in their efforts. It seems to me that there are more opportunities open to women along educational lines, especially that of domestic economy. The extent of women's influence in the home will never be known, so I am very glad that at present there is a great interest taken in that subject.
Miss Peters further says that the nature of the exhibits was historical, such as those by the Daughters of the American Revolution of Indian relics, and the exhibit in the Alaska Building, the latter being the most striking exhibit in the department. The women had more displays than men, and some of their work was very creditable, and in some cases was as well appreciated when placed by the side of that of men; that in one case it might have been more beneficial in result had it been separately exhibited, but as a whole I think women were given due consideration. The proportion of the work performed by women was not as large in proportion as that performed by the men, but in the Indian section of which I was a juror I think the awards were about evenly divided. The greater part of the exhibits consisted of collections of relics, and the exhibits by women showed great skill and ingenuity, and in nearly every case the installation of exhibits was considered very good, as was the taste displayed. Some of them were better than those by men.
Group 128, Mrs. Zelia Nuttall, Cambridge, Mass., Juror.
Under the group heading "Ethnography," the one class represented races and peoples from earliest man to the present time; tribal and racial exhibits, showing by means of specimens, groups, and photographs, the stages of culture reached by different peoples of various times and under special conditions of environment. Families, groups, and tribes of living peoples.
Mrs. Nuttall's report in the sections of archaeology, ethnology, and history is as follows:
Exhibits of original work by women in these three sections were conspicuous by their absence. At the same time the names of several women figure in the catalogue as collaborators in the installment of archaeological collections. Mrs. Quibbell and Miss Cox gave valuable assistance in arranging the Egyptian exhibit from the Museum at Cairo.
Miss Mary Louise Dalton not only helped to install the archaeological and historical specimens belonging to the Missouri Historical Society, but was also instituted as the custodian of these exhibits.
It is impossible to overrate the value of the services rendered to the exposition by the special commissioner for history, Miss Florence Hayward, who not only secured the special exhibit of the Queen's jubilee presents, but also the exhibits of the Louisiana State Historical Society, the historical exhibit of the city of New Orleans, and several interesting private collections.
The highest award was given to Miss Hayward, and bronze medals were assigned to Miss Dalton and to Miss Valentine Smith, the secretary of the Chicago Historical Society, who installed its loan exhibition, and likewise lent some documents belonging to her private collection.
Two women only figured as exhibitors of single ethnological and archaeological objects, but merely as their possessors.
The foregoing facts establish that of the three sections under consideration (ethnology, archaeology, and history) it was in the section of history that women distinguished themselves most at the St. Louis exposition. It may perhaps be said that the activity of women in bringing together and classifying historical material was a feature of the exposition, and marks an encouraging stage in the history of women's work in the United States.
Department O, social economy, Dr. Howard J. Rogers, chief, comprised 13 groups and 58 classes, the board of lady managers receiving representation in 5 groups.
Group 129, Miss Caroline Griesheimer, Washington, D.C., Juror.
Under the group heading "Study and investigation of social and economic conditions," the five classes into which it was divided represented Official bureaus and offices. Private bureaus, museums, boards of trade, etc. Economic and social reform associations, congresses. Economic serials, reviews, and other publications. Scholastic instruction in economics and social economy.
Miss Greisheimer says:
Studies and investigations of exhibits, Louisiana Purchase Exposition, social economy group 129. The exhibits, by means of reports and statistics, of leading States and countries showing the commercial and industrial conditions of the State or country, in regard to exports and imports, wages, occupations, hours of daily labor, health statistics, educational facilities, means provided for industrial betterment of employees, and photographs and graphic charts illustrative of the above, no doubt attracted the attention of thousands of visitors at the Louisiana Purchase Exposition, and will result in much good. Important subjects are thus brought to the front and many employers and capitalists are benefited by the experience of others, and so go away and work out some plan for the betterment of the conditions of their employees. It opens the way for the capitalist to meet his workmen in the adoption of measures for harmonizing the interests of capital and labor and binding together in mutual interest and good will the men whose work enriches the State and the employer who directs their labor and converts its products into wages.
The many photographs exhibited illustrating the line of betterment evolution and industrial commercial pursuits and development bring facts relating to these subjects before the public and lead captains of industry and the employer to investigate betterment institutions and profit by the experience of others. They also furnish an idea of the large industries, progress, and natural resources of the country. Thus the photographs of the coffee plantations of Brazil thoroughly illustrated the coffee industry and gave an idea of this great industry, its commercial value, its growth and development. The exhibits of New Jersey by means of photographs of industrial betterment institutions and industrial conditions furnished plenty of matter for studies and investigations to students of social economics.
Representatives of large industries, through the medium of international expositions, study the means of improving the productions of their factories, either by the use of better raw material, securing it cheaper by importing it direct from the producing centers, or by the improvement of their processes by using modern machinery, and by the study of the social betterment conditions of the employees of other large industrial enterprises.
Many of the foreign governmental publications, reports, photographs, statistics, and graphic charts exhibited showed the degree of advancement reached in some parts of the country with relation to these particular subjects, and the splendid condition and resources of the State or country. Many of these exhibits were beautifully illustrated, giving information of the social and economic conditions, as well as the history, geography, physical resources, etc., of the State or country. The exhibits of France, Belgium, Germany, and Great Britain were elaborate and systematically arranged, and furnished a fund of information in social economic studies and investigations by their most eminent economists.
The exhibits of the American Institute of Social Service deserves especial mention. We learn from them how we can aid in humanizing and elevating the spirit, methods, and conditions of modern life.
This institute had on exhibition about 2,000 photographs in 10 wing-frame cabinets, which visualize and interpret all forms of social and industrial betterment, arranged as follows: (1) The American Institute of Social Service. (2) Civic betterment. (3) Improved housing. (4, 5, and 6) Industrial betterment. (7) European social studies. (8) Salvation Army and denominational work. (9) Young Men's and Young Women's Christian associations. (10) Institutional churches. After the exposition these cabinets will be put on permanent exhibition at the headquarters of the institution in New York.
These photos make a deep and lasting impression upon the mind of the observer of the great work being done in all forms of social and industrial betterment. It is an efficient way of showing the needs of the times created by the new conditions in the industrial world, and is a means of bringing together the best thinkers of the age to devise feasible plans for the betterment of mankind, and the solving of problems of social conditions and industrial betterment. They also show what is being done by the American Institute of Social Service.
The American Institute of Social Service is a clearing house for exchange of facts, experiences and ideas on social and industrial betterment. It is both a laboratory for investigation and a distributor of the knowledge gained. It is practically an international university for the study and promotion of social and industrial progress. Its work is done on a large and thorough plan, and benefits multitudes.
The fundamental principle and purpose of the institute is to make the experience of all available for the instruction of each. This principle is applicable alike to individuals, corporations, churches, societies, cities, States, and nations.
The institute places human experience on file. It welcomes inquiries from anyone. The answers aim to be complete, or, if necessary, to refer the writer to the most direct and trustworthy sources.
It furnishes expert advice for solving local problems to employers of every kind, to workingmen, to municipal officers, to teachers and ministers, to writers, students, and others.
Through its many foreign collaborators, the institute receives reports, and is in close touch with social movements abroad.
The institute also arranges for addresses and lectures, with or without lantern slides, on many important subjects, such as: The Child Problem, History of Labor, Food, Tenements and Improved Housing, Industrial Betterment, Substitutes for the Saloon, The Newer Charity, Municipal Problems, Institutional Churches, Public Baths and Wash Houses, The Better New York.
Its publications are: Social Service, an illustrated monthly magazine; The Better New York, monographs, and leaflets.
It has a specialized and growing library, with many foreign books and pamphlets, 3,000 lantern slides, and 4,000 photographs, showing social and industrial conditions throughout the world.
Results.—Plans for new factories have been modified for comfort and health. Result: Better workers and better work.
Facilities for warm lunches, baths, and recreation at noon have been provided. Result: Hold of the saloon weakened.
Social secretaries have been appointed in factories and department stores. Result: Employees and employers in harmony.
Ministers, lecturers, and writers have been aided in presenting moral questions with force and persuasiveness. Result: Public conscience aroused.
The attention of societies and clubs has been turned to vital civic questions. Result: Energies given practical value.
Many private individuals have been encouraged to undertake local efforts of great value from which they reluctantly shrank for lack of knowledge and experience. Result: Individuals and communities have been both beautified.
Theodore Roosevelt said: "This institute is fitted to render a great and peculiar service, not merely to the country but to all countries. The possibilities of usefulness for the institute are well nigh boundless. It will hasten the progress of civilization and the uplifting of humanity."
The exhibits of the Philadelphia Commercial Museum of the World's Commerce and American Industries by means of 88 graphically illustrated charts also deserve mention. These charts illustrate the progress and present conditions of the commerce of the world, of the manufacturing industries of the United States, and of the British and American shipping industries.
This graphic method shows more clearly than statistics alone would do what proportion of the world's trade belongs to each of the principal nations, and the relative importance, from a manufacturing standpoint, of the leading cities of the United States.
The Philadelphia Museum was organized in 1884 by ordinance of the city councils, and is governed by a board of trustees. The board maintains the Commercial Museum and a Commercial Library, and is accumulating material for a group of city museums devoted to public education, ethnology, economics, economic botany, and general science.
The Commercial Museum comprises collections illustrating the production and commerce of all nations. A bureau of information collates all available data regarding the subject of foreign trade, and distributes, upon application, reports tending to the extension of American trade abroad.
The Commercial Library is free to the public and contains books bearing particularly on the subjects of international trade, productions, transportation, banking, economics, and municipal affairs. It also contains more important books, pamphlets, periodicals, and foreign reports of recent date relating to foreign trade and commerce than any other commercial library in the world.
This valuable collection of trade literature includes statistical reports of all foreign governments issuing such documents, and foreign governments' gazettes, reports of board of trade bodies, regulations of customs tariffs, yearbooks descriptive of many foreign countries, colonies, and settlements, the consular reports from all countries, special work regarding trade, commerce, agriculture, mining, and general conditions in foreign countries. It also has periodicals, city directories, and trade directories from all countries.
The museums are maintained by an annual appropriation from the city of Philadelphia, and the bureau of information by contributions from business firms and individuals desiring special service.
The Commercial Museum has accomplished much along the educational lines. The growing feeling that an increased export trade is necessary to the prosperity of the country is forcing upon schools and colleges the necessity of courses in commercial geography and commerce.
The Commercial Museum, with its wealth of products collected from every part of the world, is in the position to supply the necessary demand for the material on which such schools must depend. It has distributed over 225 collections of such products, with photographs arranged for the study of commercial geography, and so is intended to eventually include within its scope schools, colleges, and universities.
Salvation Army.—It is impossible to describe in a few words the great work and the good being accomplished by the Salvation Army. Many photographs were exhibited illustrating the work being done by this noble army.
On Christmas, 1878, in London, this army of Christian workers was christened "The Salvation Army," consisting then of about 20 workers and about as many posts, with a few hundred members, and some 3,000 souls seeking salvation during the year. To-day there are scattered through 47 countries and colonies as follows:
Fifteen thousand separated workers, entirely supported from its funds; 40,000 unpaid local officers, who support themselves and give their spare time; 16,000 brass bandsmen (unpaid); 50,000 other musicians, composing thousands of hymns and hundreds of new tunes annually; 250,000 penitents profess salvation publicly in the course of a single year; 6,000 centers have been established, where an average of fourteen to twenty meetings are held weekly, half in open air, half in buildings; 84,000 meetings weekly; 10,000,000 weekly listeners; 520,000,000 listeners in a year. To the poor the gospel is being preached everywhere.
In 1880 the first Salvation Army officers landed in New York. The Salvation Army struck root in its new soil from the outset. The work has gone on steadily forward, and it is noted throughout the world for the wonderful spirit of humility and devotion among its workers, who came to be increasingly widely recognized. They made rapid strides in America. They founded homes for the homeless; work for the workless; establishments for labor bureaus and social-relief institutions; establishment of industrial homes; workingmen's hotels; working women's homes and hotels; the establishment of the beautiful Floral Home, Los Angeles; Benedict Hotel for Young Women, Boston, and a number of cheaper-class hotels for women in New York, Chicago, and Boston; these all supply a clean, comfortable bed, with good moral surroundings, kindly sympathy, and religious services. In New York and other large cities day nurseries have been opened in connection with some slum posts; here mothers bring their children to be cared for during the day, while they are out at work earning the wages upon which the family depend for existence. There are more than 100 rescue homes located in leading cities of the world, and more than 7,000 fallen women were taken care of during the last year.
Farm colonies have also been established, and fresh-air camps are organized for summer outings. In the summer ice is furnished to the needy of the tenements; in winter, coal.
Who can estimate the good done by this noble army? How their efforts help to cast gleams of sunshine into the desolate hearts and homes of the needy. In civilization, religious and sociological reforms the Salvation Army is doing a magnificent work.
Philippine Island exhibit.—The insular exhibit of the Philippine Islands at the Louisiana Purchase Exposition was one of the great features of the fair and deserves especial mention, although it does not come under group 129.
No other one exhibit was so widely commented upon in the press and by the public as the insular exhibit. Everybody who went to the exposition visited the Philippine village and went away full of wonder and with new ideas regarding our island possessions and our governmental policy in regard to the Filipinos and the islands.
In the Philippine village or grounds there were erected a number of typical Philippine buildings. The native villages presented the life of the Negritos, Igorrotes, and other tribes. A number of buildings displayed the native woods, and some were devoted to commerce, agricultural products, and others to educational matters.
The educational exhibits attracted unusual attention. The main school building was constructed after a Manila cathedral. The main feature of the educational exhibit was a model school, taught by Mr. Hager and Miss Zamora of the Philippine Normal School. The Filipino pupils were objects of great interest and curiosity.
No doubt many visitors were interested in the Igorrotes or in some other one slight feature which left no deep impression of the actual condition of the islands. But everyone who went attentively through the Philippine village knows just what kind of people the Filipinos are, and learned much of their customs and their industries, and also acquired a fair knowledge of the resources of the islands and the many problems confronting our Government. The Philippine exhibit was one of the greatest features of the fair.
Humane Education Society.—The pamphlets issued by the Humane Education Society during the progress of the Louisiana Purchase Exposition are far-reaching as an important factor in true education, and can not but result in good. Children through their influence will be trained in habits of kindness to the dependent lower creatures, become gentler to each other, more amenable to authority, and better in their conduct. Through the efforts of this society Bands of Mercy have been organized in the various schools and churches throughout the country, and as a result children become more humane.
Pamphlets of instruction of methods of forming humane education societies were given out with other literature on humane treatment of animals which could not fail in arousing interest. A grand and noble work is being done throughout the world by the humane societies. Too much can not be said in praise of the work being accomplished by the little children as members of Bands of Mercy.
This is a report of a few important exhibits. It was impossible for me to give an accurate report of all the important exhibits viewed by jury group 129. There were several things I consider of vital importance to humanity exhibited under other groups; you will no doubt receive reports concerning them. One was the "Model Nursery," which no doubt appeals to all womankind. Another, the school exhibits in manual training, drawing, nature study, and kindergarten exhibits. Most of this work is developed through the training of the powers of the child by our great army of noble women teachers.
Group 135, Miss Margaret Wade, Washington, D.C., Juror.
Under the group heading "Provident institutions," the six classes into which it was divided represented: Savings banks, life insurance, accident insurance, sickness insurance, old age and invalidity insurance, fire, marine, and other insurance of property.
Miss Wade expressed a somewhat pessimistic view of the work of women in this special department, as she said "the part taken by women as shown by their exhibits showed no high degree of excellence, the only exhibit in group 135 being not up to the standard, and therefore, in her opinion, it would have been no advantage to women to have had their work exhibited separately."
This would be a somewhat difficult class, no doubt, for women to endeavor to make an exhibit, because, while thousands of them are employed in the offices of insurance companies and as solicitors, it is probably not a field in which they will assume the risks involved for many years to come.
Group 136, Miss Jane Addams, Hull House, Chicago, Ill, Juror.
Under the group heading "Housing of the working classes" the five classes into which it was divided represented: Building and sanitary regulations, erection of improved dwellings by employers, erection of improved dwellings by private efforts, erection of improved dwellings by public authorities, general efforts for betterment of housing conditions.
Miss Addams says in her report as group juror of the above:
From the nature of the exhibits in this department it is difficult to divide the work of women from that of men, for, although the erection of dwellings by public authorities, as in London, was naturally done through men who were members of the London County Council, and while the model dwellings erected by large employers, such as those built by Mr. Cadbury, at Port Sunlight, England, or by the Krupp Company, in Germany, were naturally carried through altogether by men, the earliest efforts for amelioration in housing conditions, and in many cases the initiatory measures for improved dwellings, have been undertaken by women.
The activities of Octavia Hill, in London, preceded by many years the governmental action, and there is no doubt that the creditable showing she was able to make on the financial as well as on the social and educational side had much to do with making the movement for better housing popular in London. The efforts of Fraulein Krupp in connection with the model housing at Essen are also well known, although, of course, this was not indicated in the Krupp exhibit.
Of the five grand prix which were given for general achievements disconnected with exhibits, only one was awarded to a woman, that to Miss Octavia Hill, although a silver medal was also awarded to Frau Rossbach, of Leipzig, Germany. Two gold medals were given to American enterprises in model housing which were carried on almost exclusively by women—one to the Boston Cooperative Society, which was founded and largely directed by Mrs. Alice Lincoln, and one to the Octavia Hill Association, of Philadelphia.
On the whole, the special work of women in connection with housing showed most satisfactory results in "rent collecting," which has become a dignified profession for many English ladies who conscientiously use it as a means of moral and educational uplift to those most in need of sustained and continuous help. Improvements in housing conditions are so closely connected with the rate of mortality among little children, with the chances for decency and right living among young girls, with the higher standards and opportunities for housewives, that it has naturally attracted the help of women from the beginning of the crowded tenement conditions which unhappily prevail in every modern city.
Group 139, Miss Mary E. Perry, St. Louis, Mo. Juror.
Under the group heading "Charities and correction" the seven classes into which it was divided represented: Destitute, neglected, and delinquent children; institutional care of destitute adults; care and relief of needy families in their homes; hospitals, dispensaries, and nursing; the insane, feeble-minded, and epileptic; treatment of criminals; identification of criminals; supervisory and educational movements.
Miss Perry reports:
Department O, Group 139.—(1) Class 784: Vacation Playground, Mrs. E.A. De Wolfe; Philadelphia Night College for Girls, Mrs. Wilson; Missouri Industrial School for Girls, Mrs. De Bolt; Illinois Industrial School for Girls, Mrs. Ameigh; Industrial School for Girls, Washington, D.C., Amy J. Rule. Class 785: Door of Hope, Mrs. Moeise. Class 786: Committee on tuberculosis of the Charity Organization Society of the City of New York, Miss Brandt. Class 787: Johns Hopkins School for Nurses, Miss Ross; anatomical and pathological exhibit, Mrs. Corrine B. Eckley. Class 788: Seguin School for Backward Children, Mrs. Seguin; Compton School for Nervous Children, Fanny A. Compton; Chicago Hospital School, Mary R. Campbell. Class 789: Police supplies and detective exhibit, Mrs. M.E. Holland. Class 790: Missouri State board of charities, Miss Mary E. Perry; New Hampshire State board of charities, Mrs. Lilian Streator; Massachusetts charity and correctional exhibit; Jewish Charitable and Educational Union, by committee of ladies; the Catholic University of America made an exhibit of all the Catholic institutions relating to charities and correction, which was collected and installed by the union, but put in charge of the "Queen's Daughters," Miss Mary Hoxsey.
(2) Class 784, 35 per cent; class 785, 30 per cent; class 786, 20 per cent; class 787, 40 per cent; class 788, 30 per cent; class 789, 15 per cent; class 790, 40 per cent; total, 30 per cent (average).
(3) Missouri State board of charities, Massachusetts exhibit in charities and correction, Johns Hopkins School for Nurses, committee on tuberculosis of the Charity Organization Society of the City of New York.
(4) It is a very noticeable fact that women are taking the place of men in charitable institutions. This fact, however, is more clearly demonstrated in the general educational exhibit. The exhibits relating to dispensaries and nurses were mostly prepared by women; in fact, they seem to have a monopoly on this particular line of work.
A part of the anatomical and pathological exhibit was in charge of Mrs. Eckley, anatomist, from the College of Physicians and Surgeons, Chicago, Ill.
The number of women entering this field was shown to be steadily on the increase, and the exhibit relating to medical schools also showed a great increase in the number of students.
Nearly all of the reformatory schools for girls and prisons and reformatories for women are under the charge of women, and a great many of the State board of charities are practically under their control.
Women are taking the place of men in the distribution of charities in the larger cities, and Mrs. M.E. Holland, who installed the exhibit on police supplies, and who is also the editor of the Detective, was, at the same time, in charge of the Chicago police exhibit. This is one of the cases where a woman has entered the profession of detective.
(5) No foreign exhibits were installed by women, although about 15 per cent of the foreign exhibits were prepared by women.
(6) The most noticeable work given to women at the fair was along the lines demanding executive ability, as is required in organizing exhibits, where tact and business capacity were essential to success. (See answer 4.)
(7) Their work differed from the work at other expositions in the fact that scientific material was presented in an attractive and comprehensive way, so as to be easily understood and appreciated by the general visitor.
(8) Yes. Their work could easily be compared to that of men. It was of the same grade, and there seemed to be no question or suggestion of inferiority.
(9) Yes; the work of women was as well appreciated when placed by the side of that of men as when separately exhibited.
(10) The results would not have been better if separately exhibited. Exhibits must be scientifically classified in order to be appreciated by the general visitor. If the exhibits prepared by women had been separated, it would have left a great gap in the scientific arrangement required in a collective exhibit, as in group 139. The exhibits in this line prepared by women would not and could not have covered the subject completely.
(11) See answer to No. 7.
There were no manufacturers in group No. 139 except manufacturers of prison cells, and no women are employed in such factories.
Thirty per cent of the work of organizing, collecting, and installing exhibits in group 139 was performed by women, and about 40 per cent of the actual work was prepared under the direction of women, such as teachers in reformatory institutions, etc.
All women preparing and organizing exhibits in this group received awards. The exact proportion can not be determined until the jury make their final report.
Naturally, there were no inventions by women in this group, but the exhibits made, or nearly all of them, were improvements on such work at former expositions, and a great deal of originality was displayed presenting scientific material and installment of exhibits.
The artistic genius and method of displaying scientific material made this group very interesting to the general public, and the subjects could be comprehended with but little effort by the passing visitor. At former expositions such subjects received little attention and were of no interest except to scientific investigators.
This exhibit as a whole showed that women have taken possession of several lines of work such as teaching and nursing, and that men have been practically forced out of these occupations. It also showed that they are entering many new fields, such as the medical profession and even becoming detectives, which demonstrates the fact that they are not inferior to men, but are more specially adapted to certain lines of work.
Group 141, Mrs. E.P. Turner, Dallas, Tex., Juror.
Owing to illness, Mrs. Turner served but two days on this jury, and was succeeded by Mrs. Conde Hamlin, who had been named by the board of lady managers as Mrs. Turner's alternate.
Under the group heading "Municipal government," the five classes into which it was divided represented: City organization. Protection of life and property. Public-service industries. Streets and sewers. Parks, baths, recreation, city beautification, etc.
Mrs. Hamlin became secretary of this jury, and reports as follows:
In the department in which I was a juror, namely, municipal government, a good deal of the work was inspired by women, and some of it prepared by women. Women's work in civic improvement is well to the front. The work in the vacation schools, which was shown, in playgrounds, for clean streets, for smoke abatement, for better disposition of garbage, has in many cities been largely inspired by women. In fact, I know of no department where the women of the leisure class are more actively interested and more efficient than in civic improvement work, and the results reached through the activities of the municipal leagues, through officials, have been most marked. The Twin City municipal exhibit I myself designed and largely prepared and administered, and was the resident member of the municipal commission.
The nature of the exhibits in this department were charts and photographs, literature on civic improvement work for and by children in playgrounds, school gardens, etc. Civic work of women's clubs. The civic improvement movement may be said to have had its inception and development since the Chicago Fair; hence the display at St. Louis showed a decided and marked advance over the work of a similar nature shown at Chicago, but, naturally, there were no exhibits from foreign women, municipal betterment work being new for both men and women, in the present understanding of the term. The work shown, of course, relating as it does to the social life of cities, would prove helpful to those interested in the advancement and success of women's work, but I saw no difference in appreciation shown in comparing the work of men and women, and the very nature of the work would not permit of its being separately exhibited, and it was not in all cases shown which had been performed or accomplished by women, which by men, although much of the work had been stimulated by women, but just how much they actually performed I can not say, and only two or three awards were given to women.
The board of lady managers was given recognition on each of the department juries, fifteen in number, namely, Education, Art, Liberal Arts, Manufactures, Machinery, Electricity, Transportation Exhibits, Agriculture, Horticulture, Forestry, Mines and Metallurgy, Fish and Game, Anthropology, Social Economy, Physical Culture.
The department jurors report as follows:
Department A, Education, Dr. Howard J. Rogers, Chief; Mrs. W.E. Fischel, St. Louis, Mo., Department Juror.
This department comprised 5 groups and 26 classes, the group headings being Elementary education, Secondary education, Higher education, Special education in fine arts, Special education in agriculture, Special education in commerce and industry, Education of defectives, and Special forms of education—text-books—School furniture, and School appliances.
Mrs. Fischel writes:
The queries relative to woman's work at the exposition were duly received. I have given very careful consideration to the request of the accompanying letter and have deferred my answer so as to deliberate most intelligently. Reading the questions over, I found myself unable to form any opinion of woman's work as woman's work. Indeed, I have held very strongly to the opinion that the one great thing accomplished for women in this Louisiana Purchase Exposition was the exhibition of work as work without distinction as to sex. In the jury room, when I served, no consideration of award was given to any sex characteristic, and not having viewed the exhibits with any idea of specializing this feature I find myself now at a loss to particularize and say there was such a per cent of woman's work.
Department B, Art, Prof. Halsey C. Ives, Chief.
This department comprised 6 groups and 18 classes, the group headings being Paintings and drawings, Engravings and lithographs, Sculpture, Architecture, Loan collection, and Original objects of art workmanship.
The board was most unfortunate in not being able to obtain the services of the prominent artists named for this position, all being abroad at the time notice of their appointment was sent, and having engagements upon their return that rendered it impossible for them to reach St. Louis in time to serve.
Department C, Liberal Arts, Col. John A. Ocherson, Chief.
This department comprised 13 groups and 116 classes, the group headings being Typography—Various printing processes; Photography; Books and publications—Bookbinding; Maps and apparatus for geography, cosmography, topography; Instruments of precision; Philosophical apparatus, etc.—Coins and medals; Medicine and surgery; Musical instruments; Theatrical appliances and equipment; Chemical and pharmaceutical arts; Manufacture of paper; Civil and military engineering; Models, plans, and designs for public works; Architectural engineering.
Mrs. H.A. Langford, of Chicago, Ill., was appointed as juror in this department, but unfortunately did not receive notice in time to serve.
Department D, Manufactures, Milan H. Hulbert, Chief; Miss Thekla M. Bernays, of St. Louis, Mo., Department Juror.
This department comprised 24 groups and 231 classes, the group headings being Stationery; Cutlery; Silversmiths' and goldsmiths' ware; Jewelry; Clock and watch making; Productions in marble, bronze, cast iron and wrought iron; Brushes, fine leather articles, fancy articles, and basket work; Articles for traveling and for camping; India-rubber and gutta-percha industries; Toys; Decoration and fixed furniture of buildings and dwellings; Office and household furniture; Stained glass; Mortuary monuments and undertakers' furnishings; Hardware; Paper hanging; Carpets, tapestries, and fabrics for upholstery; Upholsterers' decorations; Ceramics; Plumbing and sanitary materials; Glass and crystal; Apparatus and processes for heating and ventilation; Apparatus and methods, not electrical, for lighting; Textiles; Equipment and processes used in the manufacture of textile fabrics; Equipment and processes used in bleaching, dyeing, printing, and finishing textiles in their various stages; Equipment and processes used in sewing and making wearing apparel; Threads and fabrics of cotton; Threads and fabrics of flax, hemp, etc.; Cordage; Yarns and fabrics of wool; Silk and fabrics of silk; Laces, embroidery, and trimmings; Industries producing wearing apparel for men, women, and children; Leather, boots and shoes, furs and skins, fur clothing; Various industries connected with clothing.
Miss Bernays reports as follows:
In order to arrive at an accurate idea of the value of women's work as compared with men's, it would have been necessary to study the St. Louis Exposition from the time of its opening to the close, with a view to collecting data and statistics on this question. Furthermore, to get definite results regarding the progress of women since the Columbian Exposition one would have had to have access to the researches and statistics of former expositions on this subject, if such there exist. I visited both the Columbian Exposition of 1893 and the Paris Exposition of 1900, but I have only impressions of the work by women as exhibited there. Nor can I furnish figures, percentages, or even accurate estimates of women's work at the Louisiana Purchase Exposition. The observations subjoined have value only in so far as the interest in women's work lies always in the under-current of my thought. Even under the terrific stress of the enormous amount of work pressed into the few short days of jury duty I was vividly impressed with the dignity of the work accomplished in arts and crafts by the women of Germany, where it was exhibited together with that of men. In the one instance where women secluded themselves it was shown with appalling force that the result was tawdry and inharmonious.
I was appointed by the board of lady managers to serve upon the department jury in the same classification of which I had served as group juror, for "Kunstgewerbe" (Arts and Crafts). Finding my group divided into four classes—Fixed inner decoration, Furniture, Stained glass, and Mortuary monuments—with numberless exhibits m various buildings all over the grounds, I elected to serve in the class for "Fixed inner decoration." I was aware that I had been appointed for Germany because of the great interest I had taken in the movement for harmony in household art inaugurated in Germany about ten years ago. This movement admits of no division into "fixed inner decoration" and "furniture," etc., but regards the arrangement and decoration of spaces with a view to the effect of the "ensemble." Following the lead of our distinguished chairman, Doctor Wuthesius, we adhered to this idea in spite of the barbarous separation ordered by the official instructions. Thus I was enabled to gain an insight into what women were accomplishing in industrial art, which would have been impossible had I permitted myself to look only upon "fixed inner decoration."
The exhibits made by our own country in household art were meager compared to those of several foreign countries, notably Germany and Austria. Nor was it possible to gain information from our exhibitors as full and as accurate as from some of the foreigners. Here again the Germans were to the front with a complete, reliable, and artistically finished catalogue, which they freely distributed among the jurors. Only the Japanese were as perfectly equipped in the matter of literature on their exhibits and as lavish of information to the jurors as the Germans.
I have no doubt that American women are as extensively employed in industrial art as the women of Europe, but, excepting in pottery, their forward stride was not made to appear pronounced at the Louisiana Purchase Exposition. Woman's work as a maker of laces was not so exhibited as to make it readily distinguishable from men's, although it must have entered largely into the exhibits made, which, however, as I have just said, did not adequately represent the United States, many of the best and most renowned eastern firms having chosen to absent themselves.
Nor were foreign women, always the Germans and Austrians excepted, frequent or prominent in the showing made. In the two countries mentioned women have been undoubtedly taken up as factors which hereafter are to count in the arts and crafts. We found German women in a perceptible number exhibiting side by side with men, holding their own fairly well in decorative painting, as designers of rooms, of carpets and wall coverings, workers in iron and other metals, while in tapestry, weaving embroidery, and lace work their advance is nothing short of astonishing.
Wherever in the Varied Industries Building, in the German House, in the Austrian Pavilion, and elsewhere the work of German women was incorporated into the general scheme of the decorations and furnishings, wherever women, together with men, designed and planned, or wherever they carried out the designs of men, harmony was the result. Women's work was found to blend perfectly with men's when both worked on a common plan to a common end. Of course women in German art, as elsewhere, are numerically immensely in the minority, nor do they as yet often attempt the grand, the monumental, the complex. But many of them are honest and efficient helpers, whose eyes and hands show excellent training. They are, besides, enthusiastic supporters and intelligent abettors of the new movement which aims to achieve homogeneousness in the arts of living.
Again and again in the German exhibits one was constrained to note that the female members of an artist's family were frequently represented by work of their own. One encountered Bruno and Fra Wille, joint designers of rooms, carpets, wall coverings; Professor Behrens's wife plans a variety of things from costumes to book covering. There are feminine Hubers, Spindlers, Laengers in the catalogue, showing that the Germans who have been so long reckoned as addicted to the cult of the "Hausfrau" only, are beginning to accord the woman artist due recognition.
It was all the more amazing to find that Germany, the very Germany who, by general verdict, had given the most complete exhibit of household art ever shown at any exposition, who, as I have just pointed out had brought forward its craftswomen in no contemptible role, should all unconsciously furnish the striking, the classical example of the folly of separating the sexes at an exposition. The "Verein Berliner Kunstlevinnen" made an exhibit of exclusively feminine work, which was as pointedly painful, as conspicuously lacking in force and originality, as confused as to arrangement as have been all the previous displays, where the accentuated feminine was relegated to separate little buildings or separate little corners in buildings. I saw more than one German artist hustle his American friends past that part of the Varied Industries Building, where abominations of his misguided countrywomen were on view. And more than one told me that it was a slander on what German women could do. This only goes to prove that the action of the authorities in charge of the Louisiana Purchase Exposition believed to be the fact: That the exhibition of woman's work, apart from men's, runs to the tawdry, the insignificant, and the unnecessary. Therefore, separation of the sexes in the display at expositions should not be tolerated.
Department E, Machinery, Mr. Thomas M. Moore, Chief; Miss Edith J. Griswold, New York City, Department Juror.
This department comprised 5 groups and 35 classes, the group headings being: Steam engines; Various motors; General machinery; Machine tools; Arsenal tools.
Miss Griswold says:
After considerable consideration I almost feel that the least said about women exhibitors in the Machinery Department at the Louisiana Purchase Exposition the better. The fact is, there were no women exhibitors. However, in this department the exhibitors were mostly old firms or very large manufacturers, and while women are undoubtedly making their way into mechanics they have not been in the field long enough to have reached a point where their work of a nature to form exposition exhibits can compete with man's work. The chief of the Machinery Department and one other member of the jury mentioned a Miss Gleason, who is connected with one of the firms that exhibited, and spoke of her ability in the mechanical line and her knowledge of mechanics in the highest of terms. Women are employed in various capacities in nearly every line of work that was exhibited in this department, and Miss Gleason probably stands as an example of the real but unostentatious work of many women who understand the intricacies of machinery fully as well as men with the same degree of training. |
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