"Father told me to jump down the well!"

"Then you must do it, dear," is the mother's only possible comment. When the child has "jumped down the well," she may pull him out promptly, and she may in private tell her husband what she thinks about his issuing such orders and stand her own ground against them; but so long as parents are living under the same roofs that roof must shelter unity of opinion, so far as any witnesses are concerned.



CHAPTER XXXVII

TRAVELING AT HOME AND ABROAD

To do nothing that can either annoy or offend the sensibilities of others, sums up the principal rules for conduct under all circumstances—whether staying at home or traveling. But in order to do nothing that can annoy or give offense, it is necessary for us to consider the point of view of those with whom we come in contact; and in traveling abroad it is necessary to know something of foreign customs which affect the foreign point of view, if we would be thought a cultivated and charming people instead of an uncivilized and objectionable one. Before going abroad, however, let us first take up the subject of travel at home.

Since it is not likely that any one would go around the world being deliberately offensive to others, it may be taken for granted that obnoxious behavior is either the fault of thoughtlessness or ignorance—and for the former there is no excuse.

ON A RAILROAD TRAIN

On a railroad train you should be careful not to assail the nostrils of fellow passengers with strong odors of any kind. An odor that may seem to you refreshing, may cause others who dislike it and are "poor travelers" to suffer really great distress. There is a combination of banana and the leather smell of a valise containing food, that is to many people an immediate emetic. The smell of a banana or an orange, is in fact to nearly all bad travelers the last straw. In America where there are "diners" on every Pullman train, the food odors are seldom encountered in parlor cars, but in Europe where railroad carriages are small, one fruit enthusiast can make his traveling companions more utterly wretched than perhaps he can imagine. The cigar which is smoldering has, on most women, the same effect. Certain perfumes that are particularly heavy, make others ill. To at least half of an average trainful of people, strong odors of one kind or another are disagreeable if not actually nauseating.

CHILDREN ON TRAINS

People with children are most often the food-offenders. Any number not only let small children eat continuously so that the car is filled with food odors, but occasional mothers have been known to let a child with smeary fingers clutch a nearby passenger by the dress or coat and seemingly think it cunning! Those who can afford it, usually take the drawing-room and keep the children in it. Those who are to travel in seats should plan diversions for them ahead of time; since it is unreasonable to expect little children to sit quietly for hours on end by merely telling them to "be good." Two little girls on the train to Washington the other day were crocheting doll's sweaters with balls of worsted in which were wound wrapped and disguised "prizes." The amount of wool covering each might take perhaps a half hour to use up. They were allowed the prize only when the last strand of wool around it was used. They were then occupied for a while with whatever it was—a little book, or a puzzle, or a game. When they grew tired of its novelty, they crocheted again until they came to the next prize. In the end they had also new garments for their dolls.

LADIES DO NOT TRAVEL WITH ESCORTS

In a curiously naive book on etiquette appeared a chapter purporting to give advice to a "lady" traveling for an indefinite number of days with a gentleman escort! That any lady could go traveling for days under the protection of a gentleman is at least a novelty in etiquette. As said elsewhere, in fashionable society an "escort" is unheard of, and in decent society a lady doesn't go traveling around the country with a gentleman unless she is outside the pale of society, in which case social convention, at least, is not concerned with her.

Ladies are sometimes accompanied on short, direct trips by gentlemen of their acquaintance, but not for longer than a few hours.

If a lady traveling alone on a long journey, such as a trip across the continent, happens to find a gentleman on board whom she knows, she must not allow him to sit with her in the dining-car more often than a casual once or twice, nor must she allow him to sit with her or talk to her enough to give a possible impression that they are together. In fact she would be more prudent to take her meals by herself, as it is scarcely worth running the risk of other passengers' criticism for the sake of having companionship at a meal or two. If, on a short trip, a gentleman asks a lady, whom he knows, to lunch with him in the dining-car, there is no reason why she shouldn't.

THE YOUNG WOMAN TRAVELING ALONE

In America, a young woman can go across every one of our thousands upon thousands of railed miles without the slightest risk of a disagreeable occurrence if she is herself dignified and reserved. She should be particularly careful if she is young and pretty not to allow strange men to "scrape an acquaintance" with her. If a stranger happens to offer to open a window for her, or get her a chair on the observation platform, it does not give him the right to more than a civil "thank you" from her. If, in spite of etiquette, she should on a long journey drift into conversation with an obviously well-behaved youth, she should remember that talking with him at all is contrary to the proprieties, and that she must be doubly careful to keep him at a formal distance. There is little harm in talking of utterly impersonal subjects—but she should avoid giving him information that is personal.

Every guardian should also warn a young girl that if, when she alights at her destination, her friends fail to meet her, she should on no account accept a stranger's offer, whether man or woman, to drive her to her destination. The safest thing to do is to walk. If it is too far, and there is no "official" taxicab agent belonging to the railroad company, she should go to the ticket seller or some one wearing the railroad uniform and ask him to select a vehicle for her. She should never—above all in a strange city where she does not even know her direction—take a taxi on the street.

REGISTERING IN A HOTEL

A gentleman writes in the hotel register: "John Smith, New York."

Under no circumstances "Mr." or "Hon." if he is alone. But if his wife is with him, the prefix to their joint names is correct: "Mr. and Mrs. John Smith, New York."

He never enters his street and house number. Neither "John Smith and Wife" nor "John Smith and Family" are good form. If he does not like the "Mr." before his name he can sign his own without, on one line, and then write "Mrs. Smith" on the one below. The whole family should be registered:

John T. Smith, New York Mrs. Smith, " and maid (if she has brought one)

Miss Margaret Smith, " John T. Smith, Jr., " Baby and nurse, "

Or, if the children are young, he writes:

Mr. & Mrs. John T. Smith, New York, 3 children and nurse.

A lady never signs her name without "Miss" or "Mrs." in a hotel register:

"Miss Abigail Titherington" is correct, or "Mrs. John Smith," never "Sarah Smith."

LADIES ALONE IN AMERICAN HOTELS

If you have never been in a hotel alone but you are of sufficient years, well behaved and dignified in appearance, you need have no fear as to the treatment you will receive. But you should write to the hotel in advance—whether here or in Europe. In this country you register in the office and are shown to your room, or rooms, by a bell-boy—in some hotels by a bell-boy and a maid.

One piece of advice: You will not get good service unless you tip generously. If you do not care for elaborate meals, that is nothing to your discredit; but you should not go to an expensive hotel, hold a table that would otherwise be occupied by others who might order a long dinner, and expect your waiter to be contented with a tip of fifteen cents for your dollar supper! The rule is ten per cent, beginning with a meal costing about three or four dollars. A quarter is the smallest possible tip in a first class hotel. If your meal costs a quarter—you should give the waiter a quarter. If it costs two dollars or more than two dollars, you give thirty or thirty-five cents, and ten per cent on a bigger amount. In smaller hotels tips are less in proportion. Tipping is undoubtedly a bad system, but it happens to be in force, and that being the case, travelers have to pay their share of it—if they like the way made smooth and comfortable.

A lady traveling alone with her maid (or without one), of necessity has her meals alone in her own sitting-room, if she has one. If she goes to the dining-room, she usually takes a book because hotel service seems endless to one used to meals at home and nothing is duller than to sit long alone with nothing to do but look at the tablecloth, which is scarcely diverting, or at other people, which is impolite.

ON THE STEAMER

In the days when our great-grandparents went to Europe on a clipper ship carrying at most a score of voyagers and taking a month perhaps to make the crossing, those who sat day after day together, and evening after evening around the cabin lamp, became necessarily friendly; and in many instances not only for the duration of the voyage but for life. More often than not, those who had "endured the rigors" of the Atlantic together, joined forces in engaging the courier who was in those days indispensable, and set out on their Continental travels in company. Dashing to Europe and back was scarcely to be imagined, and travelers who had ventured such a distance, stayed at least a year or more. Also in those slower days of crawling across the earth's surface by post-chaise and diligence and horseback, travelers meeting in inns and elsewhere, fell literally on each other's neck at the sound of an American accent! And each retailed to the other his news of home; to which was added the news of all whom they had encountered. It is also from these "traveling ancestors" that families inherit their Continental visiting lists. Friends they made in Europe, in turn gave letters of introduction to friends coming later to America. And to them again their American hosts sent letters by later American friends.

But to-day when going to Europe is of scarcely greater importance than going into another State, and when the passenger list numbers hundreds, "making friends with strangers" is the last thing the great-grandchildren of those earlier travelers would think of.

It may be pretty accurately said that the faster and bigger the ship, the less likely one is to speak to strangers, and yet—as always—circumstances alter cases. Because the Worldlys, the Oldnames, the Eminents,—all those who are innately exclusive—never "pick up" acquaintances on shipboard, it does not follow that no fashionable and well-born people ever drift into acquaintanceship on European-American steamers of to-day—but they are at least not apt to do so. Many in fact take the ocean-crossing as a rest-cure and stay in their cabins the whole voyage. The Worldlys always have their meals served in their own "drawing-room" and have their deck chairs placed so that no one is very near them, and keep to themselves except when they invite friends of their own to play bridge or take dinner or lunch with them.

But because the Worldlys and the Eminents—and the Snobsnifts who copy them—stay in their cabins, sit in segregated chairs and speak to no one except the handful of their personal friends or acquaintances who happen to be on board, it does not follow that the Smiths, Joneses and Robinsons are not enlarging their acquaintance with every revolution of the screws. And if you happen to like to be talked to by strangers, and if they in turn like to talk to you, it can not be said that there is any rule of etiquette against it.

DINING SALOON ETIQUETTE

Very fashionable people as a rule travel a great deal, which means that they are known very well to the head steward, who reserves a table, or they engage a table for themselves when they get their tickets. Mr. and Mrs. Gilding for instance, if they know that friends of theirs are sailing on the same steamer, ask them to sit at their table and ask for a sufficiently large table on purpose. Or if they are traveling alone, they arrange to have one of the small tables for two, to themselves.

People of wide acquaintance in big cities are sure to find friends on board with whom they can arrange, if they choose, to sit on deck or in the dining saloon, but most people, unless really intimate friends are on board, sit wherever the head steward puts them. After a meal or two people always speak to those sitting next to them. None but the rudest snobs would sit through meal after meal without ever addressing a word to their table companions. Well-bred people are always courteous, but that does not mean that they establish friendships with any strangers who happen to be placed next to them.

In crossing the Pacific, people are more generally friendly because the voyage is so much longer, and on the other long voyages, such as those to India and South Africa, the entire ship's company become almost as intimate as in the old clipper days.

THE TACTICS OF THE CLIMBER

There are certain constant travelers who, it is said, count on a European voyage to increase their social acquaintance by just so much each trip! Richan Vulgar, for instance, has his same especial table every time he crosses, which is four times a year! Walking through a "steamer train" he sees a "celebrity," a brilliant, let us say, but unworldly man. Vulgar annexes him by saying, casually, "Have you a seat at table? Better sit with me, I always have the table by the door; it is easy to get in and out." The celebrity accepts, since there is no evidence that he is to be "featured," and the chances are that he remains unconscious to the end of time that he served as a decoy. Boarding the steamer, Vulgar sees the Lovejoys, and pounces: "You must sit at my table! Celebrity and I are crossing together—he is the most delightful man! I want you to sit next to him." They think Celebrity sounds very interesting; so, not having engaged a table for themselves, they say they will be delighted. On the deck, the Smartlys appear and ask the Lovejoys to sit with them. Vulgar, who is standing by (he is always standing by) breaks in even without an introduction and says: "Mr. and Mrs. Lovejoy and Celebrity are sitting at my table, won't you sit with me also?" If the Smartlys protest they have a table, he is generally insistent and momentarily overpowering enough to make them join forces with him. As the Smartlys particularly want to sit next to the Lovejoys and also like the idea of meeting Celebrity, it ends in Vulgar's table being a collection of fashionables whom he could not possibly have gotten together without just such a maneuver.

The question of what he gets out of it is puzzling since with each hour the really well-bred people dislike him more and more intensely, and at the end of a day or so, his table's company are all eating on deck to avoid him. Perhaps there is some recompense that does not appear on the surface, but to the casual observer the satisfaction of telling others that the Smartlys, Lovejoys and Wellborns sat at his table would scarcely seem worth the effort.

THOSE ACQUISITIVE OF ACQUAINTANCE

There is another type of steamer passenger and hotel guest who may, or may not, be a climber. This one searches out potential acquaintances on the passenger list and hotel register with the avidity of a bird searching for worms. You have scarcely found your own stateroom and had your deck chair placed, when one of them swoops upon you: "I don't know whether you remember me? I met you in nineteen two, at Countess della Robbia's in Florence." Your memory being woefully incomplete, there is nothing for you to say except, "How do you do!" If a few minutes of conversation, which should be sufficient, proves her to be a lady, you talk to her now and again throughout the voyage, and may end by liking her very much. If, however, her speech breaks into expressions which prove her not a lady, you become engrossed in your book or conversation with another when she approaches. Often these over-friendly people are grasping, calculating and objectionable, but sometimes like Ricki Ticki Tavi they are merely obsessed with a mania to run about and see what is going on in the world.

For instance, Miss Spinster is one of the best-bred, best-informed, most charming ladies imaginable. But her mania for people cannot fail on occasions to put her in a position to be snubbed—never seriously because she is too obviously a lady for that. But to see her trotting along the deck and then darting upon a helpless reclining figure, is at least an illustration of the way some people make friends. It can't be done, of course, unless you have once known the person you are addressing, or unless you have a friend in common who, though absent, can serve in making the introduction.

As said in "Introductions," introducing oneself is often perfectly correct. If you, sharing Miss Spinster's love of people, find yourself on a steamer with the intimate friend of a member of your family, you may very properly go up and say, "I am going to speak to you because I am Celia Lovejoy's cousin—I am Mrs. Brown." And Mrs. Norman, who very much likes Celia Lovejoy, says cordially, "I am so glad you spoke to me, do sit down, won't you?" But to have your next chair neighbor on deck insist on talking to you, if you don't want to be talked to, is very annoying, and it is bad form for her to do so. If you are sitting hour after hour doing nothing but idly looking in front of you, your neighbor might address a few remarks to you, and if you receive them with any degree of enthusiasm, your response may be translated into a willingness to talk. But if you answer in the merest monosyllables, it should be taken to mean that you prefer to be left to your own diversions.

Even if you are agreeable, your neighbor should show tact in not speaking to you when you are reading or writing, or show no inclination for conversation. The point is really that no one must do anything to interfere with the enjoyment of another. Whoever is making the advance, whether your neighbor or yourself, it must never be more than tentative; if not at least met halfway, it must be withdrawn at once. That is really the only rule there is. It should merely be granted that those who do not care to meet others have just as much right to their seclusion as those who delight in others have a right to be delighted—as long as that delight is unmistakably mutual.

STEAMER TIPS

Each ordinary first class passenger, now as always, gives ten shillings ($2.50) to the room steward or stewardess, ten shillings to the dining-room steward, ten shillings to the deck steward, ten shillings to the lounge steward. Your tip to the head steward and to one of the chefs depends on whether they have done anything especial for you. If not, you do not tip them. If you are a bad sailor and have been taking your meals in your room, you give twenty shillings ($5.00) at least to the stewardess (or steward, if you are a man). Or if you have eaten your meals on deck, you give twenty shillings to the deck steward, and ten to his assistant, and you give five to the bath steward. To any steward who takes pains to please you, you show by your manner in thanking him that you appreciate his efforts, as well as by giving him a somewhat more generous tip when you leave the ship.

If you like your bath at a certain hour, you would do well to ask your bath steward for it as soon as you go on board (unless you have a private bath of your own), since the last persons to speak get the inconvenient hours—naturally. To many the daily salt bath is the most delightful feature of the trip. The water is always wonderfully clear and the towels are heated.

If you have been ill on the voyage, some ship's doctors send in a bill; others do not. In the latter case you are not actually obliged to give them anything, but the generously inclined put the amount of an average fee in an envelope and leave it for the doctor at the purser's office.

DRESS ON THE STEAMER

On the de luxe steamers nearly every one dresses for dinner; some actually in ball dresses, which is in worst possible taste, and, like all over-dressing in public places, indicates that they have no other place to show their finery. People of position never put on formal evening dress on a steamer, not even in the a la carte restaurant, which is a feature of the de luxe steamer of size. In the dining saloon they wear afternoon house dresses—without hats—for dinner. In the restaurant they wear semi-dinner dresses. Some smart men on the ordinary steamers put on a dark sack suit for dinner after wearing country clothes all day, but in the de luxe restaurant they wear Tuxedo coats. No gentleman wears a tail-coat on shipboard under any circumstances whatsoever.

TRAVELING ABROAD

Just as one discordant note makes more impression than all the others that are correctly played in an entire symphony, so does a discordant incident stand out and dominate a hundred others that are above criticism, and therefore unnoticed.

In every country of Europe and Asia are Americans who combine the brilliancy which none can deny is the birthright of the newer world, with the cultivation and good breeding of the old. These Americans of the best type go all over the world, fitting in so perfectly with their background that not even the inhabitants notice they are strangers; in other words they achieve the highest accomplishment possible.

But in contrast to these, the numberless discordant ones are only too familiar; one sees them swarming over Europe in bunches, sometimes in hordes, on regular professionally run tours. This, of course, does not mean that all personally conducted tourists are anything like them. The objectionables are loud of voice, loud in manner; they always attract as much attention as possible to themselves, and wave American flags on all occasions.

The American flag is the most wonderful emblem in the whole world, and ours is the most glorious country too, but that does not mean that it is good taste to wave our flag for no reason whatever. At a parade or on an especial day when other people are waving flags, then let us wave ours by all means—but not otherwise. It does not dignify our flag to make it an object of ridicule to others, and that is exactly the result of the ceaseless flaunting of it by a group of people who talk at the top of their voices, who deliberately assume that the atmosphere belongs to them, and who behave like noisy, untrained savages trying to "show off." In hotels, on excursions, steamers and trains, they insist on talking to everyone, whether everyone wants to talk or not. They are "all over the place"—there is no other way to express it—and they allow privacy to no one if they can help it.

Numberless cultivated Americans traveling in Europe never by any chance speak English or carry English books on railroad trains, as a protection against the other type of American who allows no one to travel in the same compartment and escape conversation. The only way to avoid unwelcome importunities is literally to take refuge in assuming another nationality.

Strangely enough, these irrepressibles are seldom encountered at home; they seem to develop on the steamer and burst into full bloom only on the beaten tourist trails—which is a pity, because if they only developed at home instead, we might be intensely annoyed but at least we should not be mortified before our own citizens about other fellow-citizens. But to a sensitive American it is far from pleasant to have the country he loves represented by a tableful of vulgarians noisily attracting the attention of a whole dining-room, and to have a European say mockingly, "Ah, and those are your compatriots?"

Some years ago, a Russian grand duke sitting next to Mrs. Oldname at a luncheon in a Monte Carlo restaurant, said to her:

"Your country puzzles me! How can it be possible that it holds without explosion such antagonistic types as the many charming Americans we are constantly meeting, and at the same time—" looking at a group who were actually singing and beating time on their glasses with knives and forks—"those!"

A French officer's comment to an American officer with whom he was talking in a club in Paris, quite unconsciously tells the same tale:

"You are liaison officer, I suppose, with the Americans? But may I be permitted to ask why you wear their uniform?"

The other smiled: "I am an American!"

"You an American? Impossible! Why, you speak French like a Parisian, you have the manner of a great gentleman!" (un grand seigneur,) which would indicate that the average American does not speak perfect French nor have beautiful manners. There is much excuse for not speaking foreign languages, but there is no excuse whatever for having offensive manners and riding rough-shod over people who own the land—not we, who seem to think we do.

As for "souvenir hunters," perhaps they can explain wherein their pilfering of another's property differs from petty thieving—a distinction which the owner can scarcely be expected to understand. Those who write their names, defacing objects of beauty with their vainglorious smudges and scribblings, are scarcely less culpable.

In France, in Spain, in Italy, grace and politeness of manner is as essential to merest decency as being clothed. In the hotels that are "used to us" (something of a commentary!) our lack of politeness is tolerated; but don't think for a moment it is not paid for! The officer referred to above, who had had the advantage of summer after summer spent in Europe as a boy, was charged just about half what another must pay who has "the rudeness of a savage."

But good manners are good manners everywhere, except that in Latin and Asiatic countries we must, as it seems to us, exaggerate politeness. We must, in France and Italy, bow smilingly; we must, in Spain and the East, bow gravely; but in any event, it is necessary everywhere, except under the American and British flags, to bow—though your bow is often little more than a slight inclination of the head, and a smile—and to show some ceremony in addressing people.

When you go into a shop in France or Italy, you must smile and bow and say, "Good morning, madam," or "Good evening, monsieur," and "Until we meet again," when you leave. If you can't say "Au revoir," say "Good afternoon" in English, but at all events say something in a polite tone of voice, which is much more important than the words themselves. To be civilly polite is not difficult—it is merely a matter of remembering. To fail to say "good morning" to a concierge, a chambermaid, or a small tradesman in France, treating him (or her) as though he did not exist, is not evidence of your grandeur but of your ignorance. A French duchess would not think of entering the littlest store without saying, "Good morning, madame," to its proprietress, and if she is known to her at all, without making enquiries concerning the health of the various members of her family. Nor would she fail to say, "Good morning, Auguste," or "Marie," to her own servants.

EUROPE'S UNFLATTERING OPINION OF US

For years we Americans have swarmed over the face of the world, taking it for granted that the earth's surface belongs to us because we can pay for it, and it is rather worse than ever since the war, when the advantages of exchange add bitterness to irritation.

And yet there are many who are highly indignant when told that, as a type, we are not at all admired abroad. Instead of being indignant, how much simpler and better it would be to make ourselves admirable, especially since it is those who most lack cultivation who are most indignant. The very well-bred may be mortified and abashed, but they can't be indignant except with their fellow countrymen who by their shocking behavior make Europe's criticism just.

Understanding of, and kind-hearted consideration for the feelings of others are the basic attributes of good manners. Without observation, understanding is impossible—even in our own country where the attitude of our neighbors is much the same as our own. It is not hard to appreciate, therefore, that to understand the point of view of people entirely foreign to ourselves, requires intuitive perception as well as cultivation in a very high degree.

AMERICANS IN EUROPEAN SOCIETY

It is only in musical comedy that one can go into a strange city and be picked out of the crowd and invited to the tables of the high of the land, because one looks as though one might be agreeable! To see anything of society in the actual world it is necessary to have friends, either Americans living or "stationed" or married abroad; or to take letters of introduction. Taking letters of introduction should never be done carelessly, because of the obligation that they impose. But to go to a strange country and see nothing of its social life, is like a blind person's going to the theater, and the only way a stranger can know people is through the letters he brings.

Under ordinary circumstances no knowledge whatsoever beyond the social amenities the world over are necessary. A dinner abroad is exactly the same as one here. You enter a room, you bow, you shake hands, you say, "How do you do." You sit at table, you talk of impersonal things, say "Good-by" and "Thank you" to your hostess, and you leave.

The matter of addressing people of title correctly is of little importance. The beautiful Lady Oldworld (who was Alice Town) was asked one day by a fellow countryman, what she called this person of title and that one, and she replied:

"I'm not sure that I know! Why should I call them at all?" which was a perfectly sensible answer. One never says anything but "you" to the person spoken to; and it might be an excellent thing not to know how to speak about anyone with a title, as it would prevent one's mentioning them.

Having gone into the subject thus far, however, it may be added that if at a dinner you are put next to a Duke, if it is necessary to call him anything except "you," you would say "Duke." Unless you are waiting on the table instead of sitting at it, you would not say, "Your Grace" and not even then "My Lord Duke." Neither, unless you are a valet or a chambermaid, would you say "Your Lordship" to an Earl! If you are a lady, you call him "Lord Arlington." If you know him really well, you call him "Arlington." To a knight you say, "Sir Arthur," which sounds familiar, but there is nothing else you can call him.

In England a stranger is not supposed to introduce anyone, so that titles of address are not necessary then either; but if you happen to be the hostess and French or Americans are present, who like introductions, you introduce Sir Arthur Dryden to the Duke and Duchess of Overthere, or to Prince and Princess Capri. In talking to her, the latter would be called "Princess" and her husband "Prince Capri" or "Prince" or by those who know him well, "Capri."

PRESENTATION AT COURT

Frequently American men are presented at the British Court at levees held by the King for the purpose. Such men are of course distinguished citizens who have been in some branch of public service, or who have contributed something to art, science, history or progress.

An American lady to be eligible for presentation at a foreign Court should be either the wife or daughter of a distinguished American citizen or be herself notable in some branch of learning or accomplishment.

It is absolutely necessary that such a candidate take letters of introduction to the American Ambassador,[C] or Minister if in a country where we have a Legation instead of an Embassy. She would enclose her letters in a note to the Ambassadress asking that her name be put on the list for presentation. The propriety of this request is a very difficult subject to advise upon, in that it is better that the suggestion come from the Ambassador rather than from oneself. It is, however, perfectly permissible for one whose presentation is appropriate, but who may perhaps not know the Ambassador or his wife personally, to do as suggested above. It must also be remembered that rarely more than three or perhaps five persons are presented at any one time, so that the difficulty of obtaining a place on the list is obvious.

An American lady is presented by the American Ambassadress (or the wife of the American Minister) or by the wife of the Charge d'Affaires if the Ambassadress be absent; or occasionally by the Doyenne of the diplomatic corps at the request of the American Embassy.

It would be futile to attempt giving details of full court dress or especial details of etiquette, as these vary not alone with countries, but with time! If you are about to be presented, you will surely be told all that is necessary by the person presenting you. These details, after all, merely comprise the exact length of train or other particulars of dress, the hour you are to be at such and such a door, where you are to stand, and how many curtsies or bows you are to make. In all other and essential particulars you behave as you would in any and every circumstance of formality. In general outline, however, it would be safe to say that on the day of the ceremony you drive to the Palace at a specified hour, wearing specified clothes and carrying your card of invitation in your hand. Your wraps are left in the carriage (or motor-car), you enter the Palace and are shown into a room where you wait, and wait and WAIT! until at last you are admitted to the Audience Chamber where you approach the receiving Royalties; you curtsy deeply before them and then back out.

Or else—you stand on an assigned spot while the King or Queen or both make the tour of those waiting, who curtsy (or bow) deeply at their approach and again at their withdrawal.

If you are spoken to at length, you answer as under any other circumstances, exactly as a polite child answers his elders. You do not speak unless spoken to. If your answer is long you need say nothing except the answer; if short, you add "Sir" to the King and "Madam" to the Queen. This seemingly democratic title is as a matter of fact the correct one for all Royalty. "Yes, sir." "Very much indeed, Madam." "I think so, Madam."

[Footnote C: In South America alone, where out of courtesy to those who also consider themselves "Americans," the Embassies and Legations of our country are known as those of The United States of America. But in all other countries of the world we are known simply as "Americans"—it is the only name we have. We are not United Staters or United Statian—there is not even a word to apply to us! To speak of the American Minister to this country or that, and of the American Embassy in Paris for instance, is entirely correct.]

FOREIGN LANGUAGES

In the Latin countries, grace and facility of speech is an object of lifelong cultivation—and no one is considered an educated person who can not speak several languages well. Those who speak many fluently, by the way, are seldom those who constantly interlard their own tongue with words from another.

Not to understand any foreign languages would be a decided handicap in European society, where conversation is very apt to turn polyglot, beginning in one tongue and going on in a second and ending in a third. So that one who knows only English is often in the position of a deaf person, even though Europeans are invariably polite and never let a conversation run long in a language which all those present do not understand. It might easily happen that a French lady and an American, neither understanding the tongue of the other, meet at the house of an Italian, where there is also an Italian monolinguist, so that the hostess has to talk in three languages at once.

It is unreasonable to expect the average American to be a linguist; we are too far removed from foreign countries. As a matter of fact, if you would make yourself agreeable, it is much better (unless your facility was acquired as a child or you have a talent amounting to genius for accent and construction), to make it a rule when you lunch or dine with Europeans to talk English, since all Latins acutely suffer at hearing their language distorted. English, on the other hand, is not beautiful in sound to the foreign ear; it is a series of esses and shushes, lumped with consonants like an iron-wheeled cart bumping over a cobble-stoned street. The Latin's accent in English is annoying even to us at times, but the English accent in French, Italian or Spanish is murderous! Furthermore, the Latin passionately loves his language in the way the Westerner loves his city; he simply can not endure to have it abused, and execrates the person who does so. And, proportionately, he loves the few who prove they share his love by speaking it creditably.

TO IMPROVE ONE'S ACCENT

If you want to improve your accent, nothing can so help you as going to the theater abroad until your ears literally absorb the sounds! All people are imitative. There are few who do not gradually lose the purity of a good foreign accent when long away from Europe, and all speak more fluently when their ears become accustomed to the sound.

The theater is not only the best possible place to hear correctly enunciated speech, but a play of contemporary life is equally valuable as a study in manners. There is also a suavity of grace in the way Europeans bow and stand and sit, and in the way they speak, that is unconsciously imitated. These "manners" need not—in fact, should not—be gushing or mincing, but you gradually perceive that jerking ramrod motions and stalking into a drawing-room like a grenadier are less impressive than awkward.

THE SPOILED AMERICAN GIRL

The subject of American manners, as they appear to Europeans, cannot be dismissed without comment on a reprehensible type of American girl who flourishes on shipboard, on tours, and in public places generally—but most particularly in the large and expensive hotels of Continental resorts.

If she and her family have a "home," they are never in it, and if they have any object in life other than letting her follow her own unhampered inclinations, it is not apparent to the ordinary observer. Such a girl is always over-dressed, she wears every fashion in its extremest exaggeration, she sparkles with jewelry, and reeks of scent, she switches herself this way and that, and is always posing in public view and playing to the public gallery. She generally has a small brother who refuses to go to bed at night, or to stop making the piazza chairs into a train of cars, or to use the public halls as a skating rink. When he is not making a noise, he is eating. And his "elegant" sister looks upon him with disdain.

Sister, meanwhile, jingling with chains and bangles, decked in scarfs and tulle and earrings, leans on or against whatever happens to be convenient, flirting with any casual stranger who comes along. She invariably goes to her meals alone—evidently thinking her parents should be kept apart from her. She is never away from the Kurhaus or Casino, abroad or the hotel lobby in America. She is nearly always alone, and the book she is perpetually reading is always opened at the same page, and she is sure to look up as you pass. She is very ready to be "picked up" and to confide her life's history, past, present and future, to any stranger, especially a young one of the opposite sex. She is rude only to her mother and father. She is also (we know, but Europe doesn't) a perfectly "good" girl. Her lack of etiquette is shocking, but her morals are above reproach. She does not even mean to be rude to her parents, and she has no idea that the things she does are exactly those which condemn her in the opinion of strangers. If she were constantly with, and obviously devoted to her mother, she would make an infinitely better impression, both as to good form and as to heart, than by segregating herself so that she can be joined by any haphazard youth who strolls into view, and thereby cheapening not only herself but the name of the American girl in general.

Curiously enough, if she marries in Europe, she is apt to "settle down" and become an altogether admirable example of American-European womanhood, because she is sound fruit at heart—merely wrapped in tawdry gilt paper trimming by her adoring but ignorantly unwise parents who, in their effort to show her off, disguise the very qualities which should have been accentuated.

LADIES TRAVELING ALONE IN EUROPE

Europeans can not possibly understand how any lady of social position can be without a maid. A lady traveling alone, therefore, has this trifling handicap to start with. It is a very snobbish opinion, and one who has the temerity to attempt traveling all by herself has undoubtedly the ability to see it through. She need after all merely behave with extreme quietness and dignity and she can go from one end of the world to the other without molestation or even difficulty—especially if she is anything of a linguist.

In going from one place to another, it is wiser to write as long as possible ahead for accommodations—possibly giving the name of the one (if any) who recommended the hotel. But in going far off into Asia or other "difficult" countries, she would better join friends or at least a personally conducted tour, unless she has the mettle of a Burton or a Stanley.

MOTORING IN EUROPE

Motoring in Europe is perfectly feasible and easy. A car has to be put in a crate to cross the ocean, but in crossing the channel between England and France, no difficulty whatever is experienced. All information necessary can be had at any of the automobile clubs, and in going from one country to another, you have merely to show your passports at the border properly vised and pay a deposit to insure your not selling the car out of the country, which is refunded when you come back.

Garage charges are reasonable, but gasoline is high. Roads are beautiful, and traveling—once you have your car—is much cheaper than by train.

Once off the beaten track, a tourist who has not a working knowledge of the language of the country he is driving through, is at a disadvantage, but plenty of people constantly do it, so it is at least not insurmountable. With English you can go to most places—with English and French nearly everywhere. The Michelin guide shows you in a little drawing, exactly the type of hotels you will find in each approaching town and the price of accommodation, so that you can choose your own stopping places accordingly.

"And etiquette?" you ask. There is no etiquette of motoring that differs from all other etiquette. Except of course not to be a road hog—or a road pig! People who take up the entire road are not half the offenders that others are who picnic along the side of it and leave their old papers and food all over everywhere. For that matter, any one who shoves himself forward in any situation in life, he who pushes past, bumping into you, walking over you, in order to get a first seat on a train, or to be the first off a boat, any one who pushes himself out of his turn, or takes more than his share, anywhere or of anything—is precisely that sort of an animal.

ON A CONTINENTAL TRAIN

Europeans usually prefer to ride backwards, and as an American prefers to face the engine, it works out beautifully. It is not etiquette to talk with fellow passengers, in fact it is very middle-class. If you are in a smoking carriage (all European carriages are smoking unless marked "Ladies alone" or "No smoking") and ladies are present, it is polite to ask if you may smoke. Language is not necessary, as you need merely to look at your cigar and bow with an interrogatory expression, whereupon your fellow passengers bow assent and you smoke.

THE PERFECT TRAVELER

One might say the perfect traveler is one whose digestion is perfect, whose disposition is cheerful, who can be enthusiastic under the most discouraging circumstances, to whom discomfort is of no moment, and who possesses at least a sense of the ridiculous, if not a real sense of humor! The perfect traveler furthermore, is one who possesses the virtue of punctuality; one who has not forgotten something at the last minute, and whose bags are all packed and down at the hour for the start. Those who fuss and flurry about being ready, or those whose disposition is easily upset or who are inclined to be gloomy, should not travel—unless they go alone. Nothing can spoil a journey more than some one who is easily put out of temper and who always wants to do something the others do not. Whether traveling with your family or with comparative strangers, you must realize that your personal likes and dislikes have at least on occasion to be subordinated to the likes and dislikes of others; nor can you always be comfortable, or have good weather, or make perfect connections, or find everything to your personal satisfaction; and you only add to your own discomfort and chagrin, as well as to the discomfort of every one else, by refusing to be philosophical. Those who are bad sailors should not go on yachting parties; they are always abjectly wretched, and are of no use to themselves or any one else. Those who hate walking should not start out on a tramp that is much too far for them and expect others to turn back when they get tired. They need not "start" to begin with, but having once started, they must see it through.

There is no greater test of a man's (or a woman's) "wearing" qualities than traveling with him. He who is always keen and ready for anything, delighted with every amusing incident, willing to overlook shortcomings, and apparently oblivious of discomfort, is, needless to say, the one first included on the next trip.



CHAPTER XXXVIII

GROWTH OF GOOD TASTE IN AMERICA

Good taste or bad is revealed in everything we are, do, or have. Our speech, manners, dress, and household goods—and even our friends—are evidences of the propriety of our taste, and all these have been the subject of this book. Rules of etiquette are nothing more than sign-posts by which we are guided to the goal of good taste.

Whether we Americans are drifting toward or from finer perceptions, both mental and spiritual, is too profound a subject to be taken up except on a broader scope than that of the present volume. Yet it is a commonplace remark that older people invariably feel that the younger generation is speeding swiftly on the road to perdition. But whether the present younger generation is really any nearer to that frightful end than any previous one, is a question that we, of the present older generation, are scarcely qualified to answer. To be sure, manners seem to have grown lax, and many of the amenities apparently have vanished. But do these things merely seem so to us because young men of fashion do not pay party calls nowadays and the young woman of fashion is informal? It is difficult to maintain that youth to-day is so very different from what it has been in other periods of the country's history, especially as "the capriciousness of beauty," the "heartlessness" and "carelessness" of youth, are charges of a too suspiciously bromidic flavor to carry conviction.

The present generation is at least ahead of some of its "very proper" predecessors in that weddings do not have to be set for noon because a bridegroom's sobriety is not to be counted on later in the day! That young people of to-day prefer games to conversation scarcely proves degeneration. That they wear very few clothes is not a symptom of decline. There have always been recurring cycles of undress, followed by muffling from shoe-soles to chin. We have not yet reached the undress of Pauline Bonaparte, so the muffling period may not be due!

However, leaving out the mooted question whether etiquette may not soon be a subject for an obituary rather than a guide-book, one thing is certain: we have advanced prodigiously in esthetic taste.

Never in the recollection of any one now living has it been so easy to surround oneself with lovely belongings. Each year's achievement seems to stride away from that of the year before in producing woodwork, ironwork, glass, stone, print, paint and textile that is lovelier and lovelier. One can not go into the shops or pass their windows on the streets without being impressed with the ever-growing taste of their display. Nor can one look into the magazines devoted to gardens and houses and house-furnishings and fail to appreciate the increasing wealth of the beautiful in environment.

That such exquisite "best" as America possessed in her Colonial houses and gardens and furnishings should ever have been discarded for the atrocities of the period after the Civil War, is comparable to nothing but Titania's Midsummer Night's Dream madness that made her believe an ass's features more beautiful than those of Apollo!

Happily, however, since we never do things by halves, we are studying and cultivating and buying and making, and trying to forget and overcome that terrible marriage of our beautiful Colonial ancestress with the dark-wooded, plush-draped, jig-sawed upstart of vulgarity and ignorance. In another country her type would be lost in his, forever! But in a country that sent a million soldiers across three thousand miles of ocean, in spite of every obstacle and in the twinkling of an eye, why even comment that good taste is pouring over our land as fast as periodicals, books and manufacturers can take it. Three thousand miles east and west, two thousand miles north and south, white tiled bathrooms have sprung like mushrooms seemingly in a single night, charming houses, enchanting gardens, beautiful cities, cultivated people, created in thousands upon thousands of instances in the short span of one generation. Certain great houses abroad have consummate quality, it is true, but for every one of these, there are a thousand that are mediocre, even offensive. In our own country, beautiful houses and appointments flourish like field flowers in summer; not merely in the occasional gardens of the very rich, but everywhere.

And all this means? Merely one more incident added to the many great facts that prove us a wonderful nation. (But this is an aside merely, and not to be talked about to anyone except just ourselves!) At the same time it is no idle boast that the world is at present looking toward America; and whatever we become is bound to lower or raise the standards of life. The other countries are old, we are youth personified! We have all youth's glorious beauty and strength and vitality and courage. If we can keep these attributes and add finish and understanding and perfect taste in living and thinking, we need not dwell on the Golden Age that is past, but believe in the Golden Age that is sure to be.



INDEX

Acceptance of an invitation, 122-123; to a formal dinner, 187-188; to an informal dinner, 125; to a wedding, 111.

Acknowledgment of Christmas presents, 407-408; of wedding presents, 320; of messages of condolence, 406-408.

Address, forms of. See: Forms of address.

Address, notification of, 180; by bride and groom, 108-109.

Address on envelopes, 460, 486, 488; on letters, 450, 455, 460, 461; on visiting cards, 74-76.

Afternoon parties, chapter on, 165-176.

Afternoon teas. See: Teas.

Ambassador, close of letter to, 456; function of in presentation at court, 609; how to address, 488; how to announce as a guest, 214; how to introduce, 4, 489.

Americans abroad, 604-616.

Announcement of a death, 390; of an engagement, 89, 304-306, 309; of a second marriage, 108; of a wedding,106-107.

Announcing dinner, 217.

Announcing guests, at afternoon tea, 167; at dinner, 214-215.

Answering the door, 145. See also: "Not at home."

Anthem, national, 23.

Apology, form of, 23-24; letters of, 462-463; at the theater, 41.

Archbishop, close of letter to, 489; how to address, 488; how to introduce, 489.

Argumentativeness, 50.

Arm, etiquette of offering and taking, 30.

Artichokes, how to eat, 583.

Asking for a dance, 267, 270.

Asparagus, how to eat, 582.

Assemblies, 272-275.

Assemblyman, 486, 487.

At home with dancing, invitations to an, 112-116.

Au revoir, avoidance of use of, 19.

Automobiles. See: Motoring; Vehicles.

Baby, clothes for, at a christening, 385; letters of thanks for gifts to, 468; training in table manners, 571.

Bachelor's apartment, tea in, 292; dinner, 230, 336-337, 375; party, 71, 296-298; theater party, 38.

Bachelor girl, 295.

Ball dress, 541, 546-547, 557, 603; in opera box, 37.

Ballroom, etiquette in, 258-262; for an afternoon tea, 167.

Balls, chapter on, 250-275; clothes for, 569; gloves at, 20; hand-shaking at, 20; introductions at, 10, 16; invitations to, 112-116; for a debutante, 276-279; public, 271-275.

Beginning a letter, 492-494.

Behavior, good, fundamentals of, 506-510.

Best man, 331, 344; clothes of, 333; duties of on wedding day, 345-346; during the marriage ceremony, 358, 359, 360; after the marriage ceremony, 361; in rehearsal, 341, 342; at the wedding breakfast, 368.

Best Society, chapter on, 1-3; definition of, 3.

Beverages at afternoon teas, 167, 168, 169, 170, 173, 174; at ball suppers, 257; at formal dinners, 205, 209; at luncheons, 244-245; at wedding breakfasts, 365, 368.

Big dinners, 225-226.

Birds, how to eat, 584, 585.

Bishop, close of letter to, 489; how to address, 488; how to introduce, 5, 489.

Bones, management of, at table, 583-584.

Boots, 551, 568.

Bouquet, bridal, 344, 358, 359; of bridesmaid, 328.

Boutonniere, 334, 344, 354, 357, 551, 563.

Bowing, etiquette of, 20, 21, 23, 24-27, 93, 508; at court, 610.

Bread and butter, how to eat, 583.

Bread and butter letters, 468-470.

Breakfast, invitations to, 238-239; for country house guests, 427-429; wedding, 364-368.

Bridal procession, 339-342, 357-358.

Bridal veil, 350, 351.

Bride, acknowledgment of gifts by, 320-321; acquiring of social position by, 66-68; calls of, 66; calls on, 67-91; gifts of to bridesmaids, 336; gifts to by groom, 344; giving away of, 353, 359; house of on wedding day, 347-350; letters of thanks to relatives-in-law, 471; during the marriage ceremony, 358, 359, 360; in rehearsal, 338-342; at the wedding breakfast, 362, 368; as a chaperon, 289; as a guest of honor, 11.

Bride's going away dress, 370.

Bride's mother, cards left with, 87.

Bride's parents, 340-342, 353, 357-360, 366; expenses of for wedding, 377-378.

Bride's table, 365.

Bridegroom, 341-342, 357-360; clothes of, 332, 333; expenses of, 337, 342-344, 378; as a guest of honor, 11; parents of, at wedding reception, 364; wedding given by, 316-318.

Bridegroom's mother, card left with, 87.

Bridesmaids, 328-332, 339-340, 342, 351, 353, 358-361, 368.

Bridesmaids' luncheon, 335-336.

Bridesmaids' and ushers' dinner, 336.

Bridge, 524-527; introduction at, 12; invitation to, 124, 128-129.

Buffet at afternoon teas, 167; luncheons, 248-249.

Bundles, carrying of, 29.

Burials, women at, 327.

Business etiquette, 530-539; letters, 455, 460-461; relations between men and women, 23, 506, 530-532; suits, 152, 246, 566-567, 570; visits, 15, 23, 533-534.

Butler, 142-144, 161-163, 167, 186-187, 201-202, 214, 425.

Butter, avoidance of at formal dinner, 206, 585.

Cabaret, supper at, 293.

Cabinet, member of, close of letter to, 456, 487; how to address, 486; how to announce as a guest, 214; how to introduce, 487.

Cardinal, close of letter to, 487; how to address, 486; how to introduce, 4, 487.

Calls. See: Visits.

Camp, house party in, chapter on, 440-447; invitation to, 127.

Cards, of address, 108; of admittance to church weddings, 102; of general invitation, 118; of introduction to a club, 521; as invitations, 124, 168, 169; at funerals, 408; with gifts, 321, 322; menu, 210; place, 210; visiting, chapter on, 73-97.

Carriages. See: Vehicles.

Cars. See: Street cars; Motoring; Vehicles.

Carving, 229-230.

Cereal, how to eat, 573.

Celebrities, afternoon teas in honor of, 168.

Chaperon, 138; chapter on, 288-298; at public balls, 271.

Chic woman, 542.

Chicken, how to eat, 584, 585.

Children, cards of, 78; conversation about, 49; invitations to, 459, 460; parties for, 580-581; table manners of, 571-582; training of, 587-588, 592; at afternoon tea, 579-580; on railway trains, 594.

Christenings, chapter on, 380-386.

Christmas presents, 467-468.

Church, greetings in, 19-20; leave-taking at, 20.

Church weddings, 102-103; 314-316; 339-342; invitations to, 99-100.

Cigars. See: Smoking.

Circus, etiquette at, 46.

Clergy, how to introduce, 4-5.

Clergyman, close of letter to, 456, 489; how to address, 488; how to introduce, 489; visiting card of, 78; wedding fee of, 344.

Closing a letter, 455-458, 460, 487, 489-490, 494-496.

Clothes, at an afternoon tea, 165, 547, 556; at a christening, 385-386; at a concert, 547; at a funeral, 408; at a house party in camp, 441-442; at luncheon, 246; at the opera, 35, 547, 549; at theater, 42-43, 547, 569; on a visit, 97; at a wedding, 328-330, 332-334, 556, 569-570; for a debutante, 281; for a gentleman, chapter on, 562-570; for a lady, chapter on, 540-570; for servants, 138, 140, 143-144, 151-152, 246-247; for people with limited incomes, 543-545, 553-557.

Clubs, chapter on, 511-523; conversation in, 508.

Colloquial language, 62.

Colors, passing of the, 23.

Companion, 138.

Concert, clothes for, 547.

Condolence, 406-408; letters of, 483-485; visits of, 88, 93.

Congratulations, to bride and groom, 362; letters of, 481-483.

Congressman, 486, 487.

Consul, 488, 489.

Contradiction, 50-51.

Conspicuousness, avoidance of, 28.

Conventions for the young girl, 292-294.

Conversation, 506-508; chapter on, 48-57; foreign words in, 19; how to begin, 8; at afternoon tea, 170; at dinner, 216, 221, 223-225; at the home table, 592; at the opera, 37; on a railway train, 595; on a steamer, 599, 600, 602; on the street, 28; at the table, 10, 12, 576-577; at the theater, 40-41; at a wedding, 355, 362-363; without an introduction, 10, 12, 599-600.

Cook, 146-147, 178, 234-235.

Corn, how to eat, 573.

Corn on the cob, when to eat, 582.

Correct usage of words and phrases, 58-62.

Correspondence. See: Letters.

Country clothes, 548-550; 568, 570; 603.

Country clubs, 516-517, 520.

Country house, chapter on, 410-439; invitations to, 126; letters of thanks for visits to, 468-473; stationery, 451-453.

Court, presentation at, 609-610.

Courtship, 299-301.

Crests, 451.

Cuff links, 144, 152, 567.

Cup, use of, 573.

Cut direct, 26-27.

Cutaway coat, 246, 332, 566, 569.

Cutting in at a dance, 269-270.

Dances, chapter on, 250-275; introductions at, 16; invitations to, 112-116, 124, 128, 251-254, 259-260; at an afternoon tea, 166; at a wedding, 369.

Dating a letter, 453.

Day dress, 555-556.

Days at home, 82, 86-87.

Death, notice of, 387, 390.

Debts, 506, 509, 523.

Debutante, 11, 80, 114-116, 252, 257; chapter on, 276-287.

Debutante's card, 79; theater party, 43-46.

Dessert, 207-209, 573.

Devices on stationery, 451-453.

Dining-room, appointments of, 192-194.

Dining-saloon etiquette, 509-10.

Dinner, announcement of, 162-163, 217; clothes for, 546-547, 559, 569, 589, 603; introductions at, 10, 12-13; invitations to, 119, 124-125, 128, 188; seating at, 162, 178-179, 196, 210-212, 229; taking in to, 12, 217-218; formal, chapter on, 177-230; before the opera, 35; before the theater, 38; for bridesmaids and ushers; for engaged couples, 305-306; for parents of groom-elect, 310; for week-end guests, 418-419; in camp, 444; with limited equipment, chapter on, 231-237.

Dinner coat, 42.

Dishes, how to present, 206.

Dishing, 235.

Divorce, 507, 509.

Divorced woman, name of, 459; visiting card of, 78.

Doctor, how to introduce, 5; visiting cards of, 78.

Don'ts for debutantes, 284; for a hostess at country house, 431-435; for setting the table, 199-200; for writing a letter, 493, 502-503, 505.

Double cards, 79.

Drawing-room, 94, 184, 214, 224-225.

Dress. See: Clothes.

Drinking, 573-574.

Drinks. See: Beverages.

Duke, how to address, 608.

Earl, how to address, 608.

Eating difficult foods, 223, 582-585.

Eggs, how to eat, 574-584.

Elbows on the table, 585-586.

Elevator, removal of gentleman's hat in, 22.

Elopements, 301.

Engaged couples, afternoon tea in honor of, 168; dinner for, 305-306; entertainments for, 304; photographs of in newspapers, 304; visits of, 32. See also: Fiancee.

Engagements, chapter on, 299-311; announcement of, 89; congratulations on, 481-482; letters to relatives on, 303.

Engraved cards of thanks, 474; pew cards, 103; visiting cards, 73-76.

English clothes, 553, 561-562.

Entertainments, introductions at, 10; service at, 159-164; after dinner, 225; at camp, 445-446; at country house, 430, 433-434; for engaged couples, 304.

Envelopes, 450, 454.

Escorts, 31-32, 594-595.

Etiquette, scope of, 3.

European travel, 604-616.

Evening clothes, 144, 281, 318, 549, 557, 559, 563-564, 603.

Expenses, clothing, 543-545, 553-557; funeral, 390-391; wedding, 317, 329, 342-344, 376-378.

Ex-President of the United States, how to introduce, 5.

Family affairs, conversation about, 49, 506-507, 509, 592.

Fare, payment of, 31.

Fashion, 541-543, 557-558.

Father's consent to an engagement, 301.

Fiancee, asking invitations for to a ball, 253; etiquette for, 308; gifts to by groom-elect, 310-311; visits of, 95; visits to, 88, 303.

Finger bowl, 208-209, 585.

Finger food, 582-585.

Flower girls, 330, 358.

Flowers, cards with, 79; for debutante, 277-278; for fiancee, 310-311; for funerals, 394-395; for the guest room, 417; for the table, 193, 195, 591; for a wedding, 315-316, 348-349.

Folding a note, 454.

Food, at an afternoon tea, 167-170, 172-173; at a ball supper, 256-257; in camp, 444-445; for country house guests, 418, 427-428; for formal dinner, 184, 188-190, 232-235; for luncheon, 243-244; on a train, 592-593; for a wedding breakfast, 365, 368; how to eat difficult foods, 223, 582-585.

Footmen, house, 144-146.

Foreign language, 610-612.

Foreigners, shaking hands with, 20; titled, how to address, 608-609; how to announce as guests, 215; letters to, 490.

Fork, 196-197, 203-204; use of, 573-575, 584-585.

Forms of address, 455, 486-489, 608-609.

Frock coat, 332, 566, 569.

Full dress, 35, 42, 569.

Funerals, chapter on, 387-409.

Furnishings, of a camp, 443; of a dining-room, 192-194; of a guest room, 414-417.

Furniture, 132-135.

Games, 12; outdoor, 46-47; and sports, chapter on, 524-529. See also: Entertainments.

Garden party, 174-175; dress for, 556.

Gentleman, The, 506-508.

Gentleman's stick, 22, 143, 45, 358, 360, 564.

Gifts, Christmas, 468; wedding, 319-323; to baby, 382, 468; to bride by groom, 344; to bridesmaids, 336; to engaged couple, 306; to fiancee by groom-elect, 310-311; to wedding ushers, 337; of tickets for balls, concerts, etc., 43.

Girls. See: Young girl.

Gloves, 220, 246, 333-334, 344, 357, 544, 552, 554-556, 563; removal of when shaking hands, 20; bridegroom's, 333; white, when worn by a gentleman, 35.

Godparents, 380-382.

Golf, 527.528; invitation to, 128; clubs, 517.

Good-bys. See: Leave taking.

Governor, close of letter to, 487; how to address, 486; how to announce as a guest, 214; how to introduce, 487.

Greetings, chapter on, 18-21; abroad, 606-607; to mourners, 399.

Guest cards, 417-418; lists, 186-187; rooms, 413-417, 425-427.

Guests, announcement of, 161-162, 214-215; introduction of, 11-12, 487, 489; selection of, 72; to country house, 419-420; to debutante's party, 280; to formal dinner, 178, 185-186; to a wedding, 312-314; tipping by, 426-427.

Guests, distinguished, 11, 216.

Guests at an afternoon tea, 170; at a christening, 380, 383; at a country house, 410-412, 429-431, 435-439, 470; at a club, 520-523; at a formal dinner, 184, 210-212; at a garden party, 175; at luncheon, 240; in opera box, 35; on private car, 439; on yacht, 439. See also: Precedence;—Seating.

Handwriting, 448-449, 460.

Hanging the bell, 390.

Hat, 35, 245-246, 357, 544, 549, 555-556, 564, 566; lifting of, 23-24; removal of by a gentleman, 22-23, 25.

Headdress, 42, 319, 347, 544, 546-547, 552.

Healths to the bride, 337; to an engaged couple, 305.

"Hello" as a greeting, 19-20.

Home, manners in the, 587-592.

Hospitality at parties, 175-176; in a country house, chapter on, 410-439.

Host, bachelor as, 295-298; payment of restaurant checks by, 32; introductions by, 12; at a ball, 260; at a country house, 429; at a dinner, 184, 211-212, 217; at a garden party, 175.

Hostess, manners of, 218; payment of restaurant checks by, 32; presentation to at a dance or at the opera, 12.

Hostess at an afternoon tea, 167-170; at a ball, 258-259; in a country house, 411-413, 431-435; at a dinner, 177-184, 210-212, 215-220, 227; at a garden party, 175; at a luncheon, 240.

Hotels, 596-597.

Hour, dinner, 201; wedding, 314, 318-319; week-end party, 411.

House, the well-appointed, chapter on, 131-164; formal entertaining in, 159-164; furniture in, 132-135; organization of, 145-155; servants in, 155-159; service in, 135-145.

House party, introductions at, 10; invitations to, 124, 130; bachelor's, 296-298; camp, 440-447, country house, 411-439.

House suit, 565.

House wedding, 373-375.

Housekeeper, 140-141.

Housemaid, 148, 425-426.

Hunting clubs, 517.

Husband and wife, 54, 214, 413, 507, 509, 589-591.

Ice cream as dessert, 207-208.

Initials, in the signature of a letter, 458; on visiting cards, 76-77; on wedding presents, 322-323.

"Introduce," when used in introductions, 4.

Introductions, chapter on, 4-17; greetings at, 18-19; letters of, 16-17, 475-478; at a ball, 10, 16; at bridge, 12; at a dinner, 10, 12-13; at a house party; at a luncheon, 9-10; at the opera, 36; on a steamer, 601-602; on the street, 13; at a wedding, 11, 363; of guests of honor, 11; of important personages, 487, 489; of titled foreigners, 608-609; of a visitor to a club, 520-522; self, 12, 602.

Invalids, return visits of, 96; visits to, 88, 93.

Invitations, chapter on, 98-130; asking for, 117-118; cards in connection with, 83-84, 87, 118, 124, 168, 169; by a chaperon, 291; by telephone, 128-130, 238-239, 380; to an at home with dancing, 112-116; to a bachelor's party, 297-298; to a ball or dance, 112-116, 124, 128, 251-254, 259-260; to a breakfast, 238-239; to bridge, 124, 128-129; to camp, 127; to children, 459-460; to a christening, 380; to country house, 419; to a dinner, 119, 124-125, 128, 188; to golf, 128; to a luncheon, 120, 125-126, 238-239; to a picnic, 124-128; to a house party, 124, 130; to a reception, 119; to theater, 38-39; to a wedding, 98-109, 111, 312-314; to a wedding anniversary, 110. See also: Guests, selection of.

Jewelry, 144, 544, 546-548, 567, 612; for the bride, 344; of mourners, 401; at the opera, 37; at the theater, 42.

Journeys of engaged couples, 310.

Judge, how to introduce, 5; visiting cards of, 78.

Justice of the Supreme Court, close of letter to 487; how to address, 486; how to announce as a guest, 214; how to introduce, 487.

Keeping dinner engagements, 187-188.

King. See: Court; Royalty.

Kissing, 96, 307, 362-363.

Kitchen-maid, 147-148.

Knife, 207; use of, 574-575.

Knight, how to address, 608.

Lady traveling alone in Europe, 613-614.

Lady's maid, 150, 425.

Language, 58-64, 610-612.

Leave taking, at church, 20; after dinner, 226-227; after an introduction, 9, 19; after a luncheon, 247; after the opera, 37; after a visit, 97.

Letters, chapter on, 491-505; shorter, chapter on, 448-491. See also specific subjects, e.g.: Beginning a letter; Condolence, letters of; Address on envelopes.

Liquid food, 573-574.

Little dinner, 228-229.

Livery of footmen, 143-146; mourning, 406.

Living alone by young girls or women, 289, 294.

Love letters, 502-504.

Luncheon, chapter on, 258-249; introductions at, 9-10, 12; invitations to, 120, 125-126, 238-239; bridesmaids, 238-239.

Maid of honor at a wedding, 328, 330, 339, 351, 353, 358-360.

Management of servants, 155-159.

Manners, 530-539; definition of, 2; in clubs, 518-520; at home, 587-592; at the table, 371-586; at the theater, 40-43; of Americans abroad, 604-607, 612-613; of a hostess, 218-219.

Married couples. See: Husband and wife; young couples.

Married woman, how to introduce, 6; how to shake hands with, 20; name of, 458-459; visiting card of, 77. See also: Husband and wife.

Mayor, close of letter to, 487; how to address, 486; how to announce as a guest, 214; how to introduce, 487.

Meeting, at church, 19-20; in the Street, 20.

Men and women, relations between, 292-293, 502-303, 505-509.

Menus. See: Beverages; Food.

Menu cards, 210.

Military officer, visiting card of, 78.

Minister Plenipotentiary, 215, 488-489.

Mr. and Mrs. in conversation, 54; Money, conversation about, 506; and social position, 71-72, 410.

Motoring, 128, 293, 614-615.

Mourners, how to address, 399.

Mourning, 399-406; bridesmaid in, 329; for funeral, 392-393; stationery, 453.

Moving pictures, 40, 293.

Music at a ball, 225; at a dinner, 250, 251; at a funeral, 396; at a wedding, 315-316, 338-342, 357-359.

Musicale, 124.

Names, 54, 76-78, 458-459, 508.

Napkin ring, 204.

Napkins, 220-221, 241, 444, 575.

National anthem, 23.

Neighbors, new, afternoon tea in honor of, 168. See also: Strangers, 168.

Newspapers, 304, 390, 417, 509.

"Not at home," 84-86.

Note of apology, 462-463.

Nurse, 152-153.

Office buildings, etiquette in, 22.

Open air gatherings, 46.

Opera, 12, 20, 310, 546-547, 569; chapter on, 33-37.

Orange blossoms at second marriage, 375.

P.P.C. cards, 79.

Packages, 29.

Pall bearers, 391-392, 569.

Paris clothes, 353, 539-561.

Parlor maid, 148.

Party calls, 81.

Parties, attendance of a lady at, 32; kissing at, 96; non-return of, 71; afternoon, chapter on, 165-176; children's, 580-581; engaged couples, 306-307; opera, 35; theater, 38, 43. See also: House party.

Passing of colors, removal of hat at, 23.

Payment, etiquette of, 31. See also: Debts.

Peas, how to eat, 573.

Personal letters, 455.

Persons of rank. See: Rank, persons of.

Pew cards, 102-103, 356.

Photographs of engaged couples in newspapers, 304.

Picnics, 34, 124, 128.

Pits, management of, at table, 584.

Place cards, 128, 210.

Plates, 200, 202-204, 242.

Politeness to servants, 153-154.

Political clubs, 517.

Politics, etiquette of, 530-539.

Position in the community, 410; chapter on, 65-72.

Precedence, 40, 204-205, 214-215, 360-361.

Presentation at court, 609-610.

"Present," when used in introductions, 4.

President of the United States, close of letter to, 456, 487, 490; as a guest, 214, 430; how to address, 486; introduction of and to, 4, 5, 487.

Priest, 488-489.

Private affairs, conversation about, 592.

Private car, guests on, 439.

Private secretary, 139.

Pronunciation, 62-64.

Public places, 96, 307, chapter on, 28-34.

Punctuality, 46, 219-220.

Pusher, nursery, 571.573.

Rabbi, 488-489.

Rank, persons of, how to announce as guests, 214-215; how to address, 486, 488; how to introduce, 487, 489; close of letter to, 487-489.

Reading at table, 591.

Ready-to-wear clothes, 557, 562.

Receptions, 10, 119, 165, 168.

Recommendation, letters of, 479-481.

Referring to husband or wife in conversation, 54.

Regard for others, rules of, 34.

Registering at a hotel, 346, 596-597.

Rehearsal of a wedding, 338-342.

Restaurants, clothes in, 556, 569; dinner in before the theater, 38; engaged couples in, 310; headdress in, 546; payment in, 32; rising in to greet a lady, 23; young girl in, 293.

Riding clothes, 550-552.

Rings, 544, 567; engagement, 302-303, 311; wedding, 343, 346, 359.

Rising, to a lady, 22-23; to relatives, 587; from table, 577.

Royalty, how to address, 610; letters to, 490; presentation to, 4, 609-610.

Salutations, 461; chapter on, 22-27.

Seating, at an afternoon tea, 168, 170; at a ball supper, 256; in drawing-room, 94-95; at a formal dinner, 162, 178-179, 196, 210-212; at a funeral in church, 409; at an informal dinner, 229; in an opera box, 35-36; at a wedding in church, 354-357; in a steamer dining-salon, 599-600; at the theater, 40-41; in vehicles, 30-31; of children at table, 575.

Second marriage, 107-108, 375-376.

Secretary, 138-140, 178.

Self-introduction, 12, 602.

Senator, 5, 214, 486-487.

Servants, 135-138, 141-164; attitude to, 438-439, 510; at formal dinner, 184; in country house, 420-421, 425-427.

Service, in country house guest room, 425-427; in the well-appointed house, 135-164; dinner, 200-209, 236-237.

Serving table, 206-207.

Serving tea, 168-171, 173-174.

Setting the table, 194-200, 591.

Shaking hands, 20-21; at an afternoon tea, 167; at a formal dinner, 215; on a visit, 93; at a wedding, 362-363; when introduced, 7-8, 9, 12.

Shirt, 143, 334, 568.

Shirt studs, 144, 152, 567.

Shirt waist, 151, 549, 556.

Shoes, 333, 549, 555, 558, 564, 566, 568.

Shops, etiquette in, 33.

Sickness. See: Invalids.

Signature of a letter, 458-459.

Silk hat, 564, 566.

Silver, 198-199.

Sitting up with the deceased, 393.

Sitting down at the table, 577.

Skirt, 151, 548, 549, 552, 556, 558.

Slang, 62.

Sleeping arrangements in country house, 413.

Slippers, 549, 555.

Smart society, 2.

Smoking, 22, 28, 47, 209, 223-224, 530, 594.

Social letters, 455-456, 461-463.

Social position. See: Position in the community.

Society, best, chapter on, 1-3; definition of, 3; smart, 2.

Speech, 64.

Speaking to a lady, 22-23.

Spoon, 197; Use of, 571, 573.

Sports clothes, 548.

Sports clubs, 517.

Stag dinner, 230.

Stand-up luncheons, 248, 249.

Steamer etiquette, 598-603.

Stores, etiquette in, 27, 33.

Story telling, 50.

Strangers, cards left with, 83; invitations for, 117, 254; social position of, 67-70; visits, 70-71, 83, 90; at afternoon tea, 170.

Street, chapter on the, 28-34.

Street car etiquette, 23-24.

Street clothes, 548.

Subscription dances, 272-275.

Summer dress, 549, 556.

Sunburn, dress for women who mind, 549-550.

Superscription in letters, 459, 460.

Supper, 249; at a ball, 255-257; at a cabaret, 293; after theater, 45.

Table, dinner, 191, 591; luncheon, 240-242; supper, 249; tea, 167-174.

Table furnishings, 184, 591; hostess, 169-170; manners, 220-224, 571-586; setting, 180-181, 194-200, 591.

Tail Coat, 35.

Taking leave. See: Leave taking.

Tea gown, 547.

Teas, chapter on, 165-176; clothes for, 165, 547, 556; invitations to, 119, 124; bachelor's, 292; children's, 579-580.

Telephone, invitation by, 128-130, 238-239, 380.

Tennis, 128.

Thanks, cards of, 474; letters of, 463, 475.

Theater, 31, 38-46, 310, 547, 569, 611-612.

Third person in correspondence, 478-479.

Tickets for theater, opera, etc., 39-40, 43.

Tie, gentleman's, 35, 143-144, 246, 333-334, 363, 565-566.

Tips, in a hotel, 597; to servants, 426-427; on steamboats, 602-603.

Titled foreigners, 215, 490, 607-608.

Titles, 5, 486-489; on visiting cards, 76-78.

Topics of conversation, 51, 55-56.

Train card, 105.

Train of a dress, 547.

Trains, railway, 31, 593-596, 615.

Traveling, chapter on, 593-616. See also specific subjects, e.g.: Young girl, traveling of.

Traveling clothes, 351, 559.

Trousers, 143, 246, 332, 334, 564-565, 567, 569.

Trousseau, 323-327, 332-333.

Tuxedo, 42, 564-565, 569, 603.

Uniforms of servants, 148-150.

Ushers, at a ball, 265; at a wedding, 331, 333-335, 337, 339-340, 342, 354-356, 368, 569.

Valet, 143, 152, 425-426, 441-442, 608.

Vegetables, how to eat, 575.

Vehicles, 30-31; at a formal dinner, 162-163, 212; at a funeral, 395-396; at the opera, 37; at the theater, 39; at a wedding, 353-361.

Veil, 246, 549; bridal, 350-351; mourning, 399-401.

Vice-President of the United States, close of letter to, 487, 490; how to address, 486; how to announce as a guest, 214; how to introduce, 487.

Visits, 36, 70-71, 302-303, 310; chapter on, 73-97. See also specific subjects, e.g.: Engaged couples, visits of.

Visiting cards. See: Cards.

Vulgar woman, the, 544.345.

Waistcoat, 35, 143, 246, 333, 563, 565-566.

Walking, across a ballroom, 261-262; down the aisle of a theater, 40; with a lady, 28.

Watch chain, 567.

Wealth, display of, 506.

Wedding anniversaries, 110, 378-379; announcements, 106-107; breakfast, 364-368; ceremony, 357-358; day, chapter on, 345-379; dress, 350-351; expenses, 317, 329, 342-344, 376-378; list, 313-314, pictures, 352; preparations, 312-344; 347-352; presents, 79, 319-323, 464-467; trip, 342-343, 345-346.

Weddings, 19, 20; clothes for, 328-330, 332-334, 556, 569-570; guest rooms at, 413; invitations to, 98-109, 111; 312-314. See also: Bride; Bridegroom; and other specific subjects.

White blossoms at second marriage, 375.

Widow, 77, 107, 375, 402.

Wife. See: Husband and wife.

Woman's clubs, 514, 517-318.

Words and phrases, correct usage of, 58-62.

Writing paper, 449-453.

Written invitations, 120.121, 124.127.

Yacht, guests on, 439.

Young couples, 71, 471.

Young girl, 288-298; guest room for, 413; letters of, 502-503; traveling of, 595-596, 612-613.

Young person, introduction of to older, 4; greetings of to older, 21.

THE END