6th row—1 chain, * 3 plain on the stitch that forms the point of the leaf; 1 plain on each chain stitch and each treble of the last row = 16 stitches in all, up to the 2nd treble = turn the work = coming back: 1 chain, 1 double treble on the 4th plain, 1 chain, 1 double treble, 1 chain, 1 double treble, 1 chain, 1 double treble, 1 chain, 1 double treble, 1 chain, miss 3 plain, join to the 4th plain = turn the work = make on each chain stitch, 2 plain and on each treble 1 plain and 1 picot over the 1st, 2nd, 4th and 5th treble; 8 plain **. Repeat 3 times from * to **.

7th row—1 chain, 1 plain on the 2nd of the 3 stitches at the point, * 9 chain, 1 double treble between the two first picots of the semicircle formed in the last row; 8 chain, 1 triple treble on the 3rd treble of the semicircle, 8 chain, 1 double treble between the 3rd and 4th picots of the semicircle, 9 chain, 1 plain on the stitch at the corner.

8th row—19 single on the chain stitches of the 7th row, 1 chain, 3 plain on the corner stitch, 24 plain on the chain stitches and trebles = turn the work = coming back: 2 chain, 1 double treble on the 20th plain; on the same stitch add: 2 double trebles with 2 chain; finish with: 2 chain, join them to the 5th plain = turn the work = on the chain stitches: 1 plain, 1 picot, 1 plain, 1 plain on the treble. Repeat this series 4 times = add: 4 plain on the chain stitches of the 7th row = turn the work = 5 chain, 1 double treble on the 1st treble of the small semicircle; then again 3 times, 3 chain, and twice 1 double treble on each of the trebles beneath = after the last 5 chain: join to the 4th plain.

The points in this row are made with: * 1 plain on the chain stitches, 8 chain, miss 1 stitch = coming back: 1 single, 1 plain, 1 half treble, 1 treble 11/2 treble long, 3 double trebles, 1 plain on the 5 chain stitches. The 2nd point must be placed one half of it, before, and the other half behind the picot; make altogether 7 points = after the 7th: 8 plain on the chain stitches of the 7th row = then work backwards, without however turning the work: 7 chain, 1 chain on the stitch at the top of the point and repeat 7 times from * = after the 8th set of 7 chain stitches: 1 chain; 1 plain on the 9th plain, bringing the thread forwards from the right side to the wrong = 2 chain; take the thread back to the 3rd plain from the wrong side to the right = 1 treble on each chain stitch, 1 picot above each point, add 4 trebles and 14 chain, join them to the 4th treble that comes after the 1st picot.

On the 14 chain: 5 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 4 trebles to the next picot, 1 picot, 4 trebles; 14 plain, join them to the treble nearest the 1st scallop and so on = make 7 scallops in all; after the 7th add 2 trebles on the 2 chain stitches = after the 2nd treble make 2 plain, followed by the 3 stitches at the corner = in the next scallop, you fasten by 1 single, the 1st picot of the 1st scallop to the 3rd picot of the last scallop. When you have finished the four sides of the figure above-described, fasten off your thread.

The edging of these squares should be begun on the narrower of the inner sides and at the 3rd little scallop: * 1 plain on the middle picot of the 3rd little scallop, 7 chain, 1 double treble on the 1st picot of the 4th scallop; 7 chain, 1 triple treble on the 2nd picot of the same scallop, 6 chain, 1 double treble on the 3rd picot of the same scallop, 6 chain, 1 plain on the middle picot of the 5th scallop; 10 chain, 1 treble on the middle picot of the 6th scallop, 11 chain **, 1 quadruple treble on the middle picot of the 7th and 1 quadruple treble on the middle picot of the 1st scallop following and draw the last loops of the 2 trebles up together. Repeat once from * to **. Carry the trebles all round the figure on the picots just referred to.

For the second half of the edging which becomes a little wider: *** 10 chain, 1 treble on the 6th scallop, 11 chain, 2 quadruple trebles, the last loops of which you join to the middle picots of the 7th and 1st scallop; 11 chain, 1 treble in the next scallop; 10 chain, 1 treble in the 3rd scallop; 7 chain, 1 treble 21/2 long, 8 chain, 1 treble 31/2 long, 8 chain; 1 double treble, 8 chain, 1 plain, 12 chain, 1 treble, 14 chain, **** 2 quadruple trebles, the last loops of which are joined together. Repeat from **** to ***, that is the reverse way = finally add 1 more whole row of plain and 3 plain stitches at the corners = on the wider side you should have 99 stitches, not counting the increases at the corner.

To make the same figure, forming a part of the large outside scallops, repeat the same rows you have in the inner square up to the 7th row, the first half of which you make exactly the same as before. In the second half of the row of chain there should be 1 chain stitch less in each intervening space than there were in the first half.

8th row—make the first half of this row like the 8th row of the inner square = over the 2nd half, one quarter of which is 4 chain stitches narrower, the little wheels are made like the others with 7 picots. The number of chain stitches and the trebles of the setting are also the same, but instead of 7 points you have to make 5 and over these, 5 small scallops instead of 7.

The setting, towards the top is made exactly in the same manner as the wide part of the upper square, that is, as from the 3rd scallop of the first semicircle to the 5th scallop of the 2nd. From this point, the series of stitches changes, so as to form a rounded edge: * 7 chain, 1 plain on the 6th scallop; 15 chain, 2 triple trebles joined by the last loops to the 7th and 1st scallop; 14 chain, 1 plain on the 2nd of the 5 scallops; 15 chain, 1 plain on the 3rd scallop; 15 chain, 1 plain on the 4th scallop, 15 chain **, 2 triple trebles joined by the last loops in the 5th and 1st scallop. Repeat once again from ** to * = add 1 row of plain on each stitch of the preceding row; 3 plain on the two top corner stitches. You will thus have 3 figures with a rounded edge on one side.

The second kind of square consists of 8 leaves inside and is begun in the same way by 6 chain formed into a ring.

1st row—5 chain, 1 treble, 2 chain, * 1 treble, 2 chain. Repeat 6 times from * and join to the 3rd of the 5 chain.

2nd row—1 chain, 3 plain over 2 chain, 1 plain on each treble.

3rd row—9 chain, * miss 1 stitch = coming back: 1 single, 1 plain, 1 half treble, 1 treble, 1 double treble, 1 triple treble, 1 treble over the treble of the 2nd row; 7 chain. Repeat 7 times from * = after the 8th point: 7 single along the 1st.

4th row—* 1 plain on the stitch you missed at the point, 5 chain, 1 triple treble on the treble of the 3rd row, 5 chain. Repeat 7 times from *.

5th row—3 chain, 1 treble on each stitch of the 4th row; join to the 3rd of the 3 chain.

6th row—10 chain, 1 plain on the treble over the triple treble of the 4th row: 10 chain, 1 plain on the treble above the little point.

7th row—15 plain on the 10 chain = on the 3rd scallop only: * 7 plain, 10 chain, come back to the second scallop, bring the thread back from the wrong side to the right between the 7th and 8th plain stitches, 15 plain on the 3rd scallop, 8 plain on the next scallop, 15 plain and repeat 6 times from *.

When the 16th scallop is finished, pass to the point of the 1st scallop by means of 7 single, then add the 10 chain to pass to the 8th scallop above; when that is finished, fasten off, and fasten on again to one of the 8 scallops.

8th row—* 21 chain, miss 1 stitch, 1 plain, 1 half treble, 1 treble, 1 treble 11/2 treble long, 1 double treble, 1 treble 21/2 trebles long, 1 triple treble, 1 treble 31/2 trebles long, 1 quadruple treble, 1 treble 41/2 trebles long, 1 quintuple treble. After passing through the 3rd loop, make 1 quadruple treble, between the 2 plain scallops; then finish the quintuple treble, 7 chain, 1 plain on the 2nd scallop and repeat 7 times from *.

9th row—* 7 plain on the 7 chain; 1 plain on each stitch of the pyramid, 3 plain on the stitch at the point; 4 plain on the 7 chain on the opposite side = turn the work = ** 1 chain, miss 1 plain, 1 treble on the 2nd stitch = after the 5th treble, leave out no more stitches between the trebles ***; place the 8th, 9th and 10th trebles on the 2nd of the increased stitches. Repeat on the opposite side from *** to ** and join to the 4th of the plain stitches = make 17 trebles in all, then one plain over each chain, 1 plain on each treble and 1 picot after every 3rd plain = after the 4th and up to the 8th picot, leave only 2 plain between: 11 picots in all = in conclusion: 3 plain more on the 7 chain and repeat the whole 7 times from *.

The little wheel at the top of the square is begun with 10 chain for the ring = 16 plain on the ring, 4 chain, * 1 treble, 1 chain = repeat 14 times from *; 16 trebles in all, including the chain stitches = then on each treble and each chain stitch: 1 plain; after 4 plain: 1 picot; connect the wheel first on the right.

The 2nd picot is to be fastened to the 9th picot of the large scallop = proceed with: 3 times 4 plain with 1 picot = after the 3rd plain, fasten the picot to the 3rd picot of the next large scallop and complete the small wheel. The left wheel is made and inserted in the same manner as the right one. The wheels at the bottom of the square require for the foundation ring: 14 chain, on which you make 21 plain = on these: 4 chain, * 1 treble, 1 chain = repeat 19 times from *; 21 trebles in all, including the chain stitches = 3 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain, 4 chain, join to the 8th picot of the 2nd scallop; 4 chain, finish the picot, 3 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain, 8 chain, join to the 10th picot of the scallop, 8 chain, complete the picot; 3 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain, 8 chain, join to the 2nd picot of the 3rd scallop, 8 chain, close the picot, 3 chain, 1 picot, 3 plain, 4 chain, join to the 4th picot of the 3rd scallop; 4 chain, complete the picot, 3 plain, 1 picot and so on, until you have 14 picots round the wheel. Repeat the same wheel to the left between the 4th and 5th scallop.

The edging of this second kind of square is also slightly different; fasten the thread to the 6th picot of the 1st scallop before the small wheel, then working from right to left, count: * 10 chain, 1 treble on the 2nd empty picot of the small wheel; 8 chain, 1 triple treble on the 4th picot of the wheel = upwards: 9 chain, 1 double treble on the 6th picot of the wheel; 9 chain, 1 plain on the 6th picot of the 8th scallop, 12 chain, 1 plain on the 7th picot of the scallop, 11 chain **, 1 quadruple treble on the 9th picot of the 8th scallop and on the 3rd picot of the 7th; draw the last loops of the two trebles up together. Repeat once more from ** to *, then: 1 plain on the 6th picot of the 6th scallop; *** 12 chain, 1 sextuple treble on the 9th picot of the 6th scallop, retain 2 loops of the treble on the needle, make 4 more overs, join the treble to the 3rd picot of the 5th scallop; finish the bars, 12 chain, 1 plain in the 6th picot of the next scallop = 12 chain, 1 double treble on the 2nd picot of the 7 empty picots of the bottom wheel; 9 chain, 1 quadruple treble on the 4th picot; 12 chain, 1 double treble on the 6th picot, 14 chain, 1 plain on the 6th picot of the 4th scallop, 14 chain ***, 1 septuple treble, in the 9th and 3rd picots of the 4th and 3rd scallops ****. For the preceding treble, you pass first through 4 loops only, then make 4 more overs for the other half of the treble, and finish the last loops one by one. Repeat from **** to ***. One row of plain stitches completes the square.

After having made the square similar to that of the upper one, you have merely to add the large wheels at the top.

The setting of chain stitches and trebles is begun at the first scallop between 2 wheels = 1 plain on the 6th picot of the 1st scallop; 14 chain, 2 quintuple trebles, of which the last loops only are joined together, on the 9th and 3rd picot of the 1st and 2nd scallop, = 14 chain, 1 plain on the 6th picot of the next scallop; * 14 chain, 1 treble on the 2nd empty picot of the wheel; 10 chain, 1 quadruple treble on the 4th picot, 10 chain, 1 treble on the 6th picot; 14 chain, 1 plain on the 6th picot of the 3rd scallop; 14 chain, 2 sextuple trebles on the 10th and 2nd picot of the 3rd and 4th scallop; 15 chain, 1 plain on the 6th picot of the 4th scallop; 16 chain, 2 sextuple trebles on the 10th and 2nd picot of the 4th and 5th scallop; 16 chain, 1 plain on the 6th picot of the 5th scallop; 15 chain ** 3 septuple trebles on the 10th and 2nd picot of the 5th and 6th scallop. Repeat from ** to *; and make 4 figures with rounded edges. When all the figures are finished, join them together by trebles of a suitable length.

Introduce the thread at the corner stitch on the widest side of the 2nd 8 pointed star and make: 1 plain, 6 chain, miss 3 stitches, 1 plain on the 3 next stitches, 4 chain, miss 2, 1 plain on the next 3 plain stitches.

Make 11 loops in this manner, each consisting of 4 chain and 3 plain, then 2 loops of 3 chain and 2 plain = then miss as many stitches of the square at the edge of the collar as were left empty in the second square; 2 plain and draw the loop each time through the 2 last stitches of the opposite square = 1 chain, 1 single on the 2nd chain stitch of the opposite side; 1 chain, 3 plain on the edge of the first square, 1 chain, 1 single, 1 chain, miss 3 stitches, 3 plain, 5 chain, bring the loop from the wrong side to the right = on the chain stitches: 4 plain, 2 chain, miss 3, 3 plain.

From this point onwards, fasten all the bars of chain stitches to the loops produced by the same stitches in the 2nd square. Thus, the 1st bar consisting of 5 chain, the 2nd will consist of 7 chain on which make 7 plain, and then add 2 more chain. Nowhere must the two first chain stitches be uncovered.

The 3rd bar must consist of 9 chain, 9 plain and 2 chain = the 4th of 11 chain, 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 2 chain = the 5th of 13 chain, 4 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, 2 chain = the 6th of 16 chain, 6 plain, 1 picot, 6 plain, 1 picot, 6 plain, 2 chain = the 7th of 18 chain, 5 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 2 chain = the 8th of 21 chain, 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 2 chain = the 9th of 24 chain, 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 2 chain = the 10th of 26 chain, 6 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 1 picot, 6 plain, 2 chain = the 11th and last of 28 chain, 32 plain, 2 chain, fasten off.

As the square with the semicircles in it, has more plain stitches in the edge than the one with the eight-pointed star in it, the stitches must be divided so that you miss 3 from time to time, instead of two. When the 7 top figures are finished, join the 7 bottom ones to them, each separately, by a row of plain stitches, made on the wrong side of the work. Below the first square with the semicircles, comes the eight-pointed star, below the next eight-pointed star, the square with the semicircles, and so on.

A narrow edging forms the outside border, the foundation of which is a row of plain stitches running all along the squares. At the middle of the square you decrease by 2 stitches, and at the point where two squares meet, by 3. When you reach the left side and the end of the row, make 3 plain on the corner stitch, then: * 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 14 chain, join them to the first of the 5 first plain (drop the thread at each scallop and bring it forward from the wrong side to the right) = on the 14 chain: 5 plain, 1 picot, 11 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain = along the square: 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, then 14 chain, join them to the first plain = over the 14 chain: 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 14 chain, join them in turning back between the 5th and 6th of the 10 plain of the 1st scallop; 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain; on the half-finished scallop: 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain ** = on the plain stitches of the edge: 4 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, 12 chain, come back, join to the 1st of the 4 plain = on the 12 chain: 4 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain *** = repeat on the same figure once from * to *** and once from * to **.

This makes 77 stitches, the number there ought to be on the wide side of the straight-edged figures.

The scallops vary a little on the rounded sides. There, you should have 110 stitches, counting from the corner to the treble that marks the middle at the bottom. The single scallops, between the triple scallops of the border, are also all made over 8 stitches; the first triple scallop is made over 20 stitches, the 2nd, 3rd and 4th triple scallop over 16 stitches.

Make no single scallop after the 4th triple one; which is immediately succeeded by the 5th triple scallop, over 16 stitches.

Altogether, round each star, there are 9 triple and 8 single scallops. After the 8th single one, make 3 plain stitches on the 2 chain stitches of the connecting bar.

On the 32 plain stitches of the last bar: 8 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, 12 chain, bring them back and join to the 5th of the 8 plain = on the 12 chain: 5 plain, 2 chain, draw the loop through the picot in the middle of the last single scallop, 2 chain, close the picot, 8 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain = in the bar: 4 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, 12 chain, bring them back and fasten them to the 1st plain = 5 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, 12 chain, join them to the 4th plain of the 1st scallop; 5 plain, 1 picot, 8 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain = in the half-finished scallop: 4 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain = in the bar: 4 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain = 12 chain, bring them back and fasten them to the 1st plain. 4 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, 12 chain, join them close to the scallop above = 5 plain, 1 picot, 4 plain, 12 chain, bring them back and join them to the 4th plain of the 2nd scallop; 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain = in each of the 2 half-finished scallops: 4 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain = finish with 4 plain, 3 plain on the 2 chain and repeat from * round all the rounded parts.

The lozenges that fill the empty spaces between the large figures are made in 7 rows, on a ring formed of 4 chain.

1st row—5 chain, 1 treble on the ring, 2 chain, 8 trebles in all, including the bar of chain stitches.

2nd row—3 plain over 2 chain, 1 plain over each treble.

3rd row—7 chain, 1 treble over the treble beneath, 5 chain, 1 treble; 8 trebles in all.

4th row—* 1 plain, 1 half treble, 1 treble, 1 double treble, 1 treble 21/2 trebles long; ** repeat the reverse way to * = 1 plain on the treble, 7 chain, miss 1 stitch, 1 plain, 1 treble, 1 double treble, 1 treble, 1 plain. Repeat twice from * to **, followed by: 9 chain, miss 1, 1 single, 1 plain, 1 half treble, 2 trebles, 1 half treble, 1 plain, 1 single ***. Repeat once from * to ***, then again from * to **, and add 5 single all along the scallop.

5th row—9 chain * 1 plain on the top stitch of the small leaf, 7 chain, 1 treble on the middle stitch of the scallop, 7 chain, 1 treble on the next scallop = 9 chain, 1 plain on the leaf, 9 chain, 1 treble on the scallop, 7 chain, 1 treble on the next scallop, 7 chain and repeat once from *.

6th row—1 plain on each stitch of the row before, 3 plain on the points.

7th row—on each side of the lozenge 3 little scallops on 8 chain, with 3 picots and 1 picot below the scallops and between every 4 plain; the scallops at the points extend over 4 stitches only, so that the picot below is left out.

These lozenges are fastened on two sides to the middle picot of the triple scallop; then, starting from the 3rd scallop of the lozenge you make, 8 chain, join them to the middle picot of the 1st triple scallop; coming back over the 8 chain: 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain and finish the scallop. The next scallop, at the point of the lozenge, is fastened by a picot of 6 chain, to the middle picot of the 6th scallop underneath the connecting bar. Repeat the same on the 2nd side and make 6 lozenges in all.

The lace that finishes off the collar at the neck must be made to stand up, and is begun by a row of trebles on the plain stitches.

From the corner as far as the 2nd treble of the 4th scallop, make triple trebles, from the 4th scallop to the 6th chain stitch after the 5th scallop, make double trebles, from this point to the 2nd scallop of the next semicircle, only single trebles, then again double trebles and finish with triple trebles as at the beginning. Decrease by 2 or 3 stitches in each square.

When this row of trebles is finished, fasten off, and fasten on again on the right and on the base of the 1st treble which you border with 4 chain, then follow: * 15 plain on the row of trebles, put the needle in under the 2 loops of the trebles = turn the work = 2 chain, 1 double treble, miss 4 plain, 1 double treble on the 5th stitch, 2 chain, 1 double treble, 2 chain, 1 double treble, 2 chain, miss 4 plain = turn the work = bring the loop to the front; ** 1 plain, 1 picot, 1 plain, 1 plain on the treble; repeat 3 times again from ** and add 4 plain on the trebles = turn the work = 6 chain, 1 double treble over the treble beneath; again 3 times 6 chain stitches and 1 double treble; join the 4th set of 6 chain to the 4th plain = bring the thread back to the front: 1 plain on the 6 chain = 8 chain, miss 1, and make on the others: 1 plain, 1 half treble, 2 trebles, 1 treble 11/2 treble long, 2 double trebles, 1 plain stitch on the 6 chain. The next point comes above a treble; you make 7 points in all. After the 7th: 5 plain, then 7 chain, 1 plain on each point between the points and join.

Join the 8th set of 7 chain on to the 4th plain of the first treble = then add: 2 chain, draw the loop from the wrong side to the right through the 1st plain stitch; 8 trebles, 1 picot, 4 trebles, 12 chain, bring them back over the picot, join it between the 4th and 5th trebles; 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain, 1 picot, 5 plain.

Over each point: 1 picot and over the picot 1 scallop, like the one made in the square. On the 7th point only 1 picot = after the last treble on the last chain: 2 chain; then go on with the plain stitches until you have 27 and repeat from *.

In the semicircles that follow you leave out the first and last little scallops, the first and the last scallop must be joined together by the first and the last picot; in the last semicircle, make 6 little scallops, the same as you did in the first.

CROCHET CHAIR-BACK (fig. 485).—The close leaves in plain stitch of the large centre star, the 4 corner figures forming a cross and the diagonal figures, all have to be made separately and sewn on afterwards in their proper place. To join the separate parts neatly together, draw a square the size of the work on a piece of thick paper or waxcloth, divide it into 8 parts by means of straight and diagonal lines, sew the separate pieces of crochet upon it, face downwards, in their proper places and make the trebles on the wrong side of the work.

Begin by the centre star and make: 12 chain, close the ring.

1st row—23 plain on the 12 chain.

2nd row—9 chain, 1 double treble on the 2nd plain, 4 chain, 1 treble and so on until you have 12 trebles, including the 5 chain.

3rd row—1 plain on each chain stitch and each treble; 60 plain in all.

4th row—3 plain, 1 picot, altogether 20 picots in the row, then fasten off.

]

The leaves round the ring have 3 petals, 1 large and 2 small; you begin by the large one, and make the small ones afterwards. The petals should be begun from the point and not from the bottom as is generally done—30 chain; coming back: 4 single, 4 plain, 5 half trebles, 8 trebles, 4 half trebles, 4 plain stitches, 3 plain on the 1st chain = on the second side of the chain make the same number of stitches but in the reverse order.

Small petal on the left—21 chain, miss 1, 5 plain, 3 half trebles, 5 trebles, 3 half trebles, 3 plain, 3 plain on the top. Repeat the same series of stitches in the reverse order on the second side = at the 10th stitch of the large petal and counting upwards from below, draw the thread through the 10th stitch of the small petal, and do the same through the 9 next stitches = for this purpose drop the loop each time and draw it back through the opposite stitch, from the wrong side to the right. After making the same petal on the right, fasten off; fasten on again at the outer edge and edge the 3 petals with 1 plain on each stitch and 3 plain on the stitch at the point; make 4 leaves with 3 petals each.

Between the pointed leaves, which are afterwards placed on the diagonal line of the square, come some very long leaves which are rounded towards the top—29 chain, miss 1, 5 plain, 2 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd of the chain stitches; carry on the trebles until you have, on coming to the last chain, 7 trebles = turn the work and make 1 plain on each stitch of the row = turn the work = 1 plain on every stitch all round = turn the work = * 9 plain, 4 half trebles, 3 trebles, 2 double trebles, join the last loops of the 2 last trebles together; set the 20th and 21st double treble on the same stitch = the 20th treble 21/2 trebles long; the 21st a triple treble = on the next plain stitch; 1 treble 31/2 trebles long and 1 quadruple treble = again on the next stitch: 2 trebles, the first of them 41/2 trebles long, the 2nd a quintuple one = on the 3rd plain: 2 quintuple trebles, 4 chain, 1 plain on the plain stitch of the 2nd row and next to the last quintuple treble, 1 half treble, 1 treble, 2 double trebles on one stitch, 2 triple trebles on one stitch **, 1 quadruple treble on the 2 next stitches. Repeat from ** to *, therefore in the reverse order.

To make the large star which is the first of the figures placed on the diagonal line, make: 4 chain, close the ring.

1st row—10 chain,* 1 double treble on the 4 chain, 5 chain. Repeat 4 times from *, 6 trebles in all.

2nd row—over 5 chain: 1 half treble, 1 treble, 1 treble 11/2 treble long, 1 double treble, 1 treble 21/2 trebles long **, 1 triple treble. Repeat once from ** to * and 5 times from * to **.

3rd row—1 plain on each stitch of the 2nd row.

4th row—3 plain, 1 picot, 2 plain, * 2 chain, 1 picot, 5 chain, miss 1 = coming back: 4 plain, 1 picot, 2 plain = on the plain stitches of the 3rd row: 2 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain. Repeat from *, with this difference that the trebles that are placed over the half trebles of the 2nd row must begin with 3 chain. Make, altogether, 12 long bars, 6 of them beginning with 2 chain and 6 with 3; these bars remain empty; after the 12th you fasten off.

5th row—fasten on the thread to the top stitch of a treble, 11 chain, 1 plain. Repeat this series 11 times.

6th and 7th row—1 plain on each stitch of the 5th row, then 1 plain on each stitch of the 6th row.

8th row—over 9 bars and 8 spaces: 3 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain and so on. Add nothing further to the 2 rows of plain stitches of the 10th, 11th and 12th picots.

For the second star of the corner figure 4 chain, close.

1st row—8 chain, 1 treble, * 5 chain, 1 treble. Repeat 3 times from *; 5 trebles in all, including the chain stitches.

2nd row—* 1 chain, 1 half treble, 1 treble, 1 treble 11/2 treble long, 1 double treble, 1 triple treble **. Repeat from ** to *, and the whole series 4 times.

3rd row—* 1 chain, 3 plain, 1 picot, 2 plain, 2 chain, 1 picot, 4 chain = coming back, 4 plain on the 4 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain = on the stitches of the 2nd row: 2 plain, 1 picot, 2 plain, 3 chain, 1 picot, 5 chain, miss 1, 4 plain = coming back: 1 picot, 3 plain. Repeat 4 times from *, fasten off.

4th row—fasten on at the point of one of the bars and make from one bar to the other: 9 chain, 1 plain on each bar.

5th row—1 plain on each stitch of the last row.

6th row—1 plain on each stitch of the last row and join the 4 last stitches to the 4 that are under the 11th treble of the 1st star, taking care to put the trebles one above the other.

The 3rd star also begins with 4 chain formed into a ring.

1st row—8 chain, 1 treble, 5 chain, 1 treble, 5 chain, 1 treble, 5 chain, join them to the 4th of the 8 chain.

2nd row—2 chain, * 1 half treble, 1 treble, 1 treble, 11/2 treble long, 1 double treble **. Repeat from ** to * and then, 3 times from * to **.

3rd row—1 plain on each stitch of the 2nd row.

4th row—1 chain, 2 plain, * 1 picot, 3 chain, 1 picot, 5 chain. Repeat 3 times from *; after the 8th picot: 3 chain.

5th row—15 chain, 1 triple treble on the 5th and on the 2nd plain stitch between 2 picots, 9 chain, 1 triple treble and so on. Altogether, including the chain stitches, 8 trebles and 8 times 9 chain; join to the 7th chain.

6th and 7th row—1 plain on each stitch of the previous row; join the 4 last stitches again to the 4th stitch of the 2nd star and fasten off.

The open work border is made from the 1st large star, beginning near the 9th treble at the point where the picots leave off. After fastening on the thread: 5 chain, miss 2 plain, 1 plain on the 3rd = at the point where the circles meet, miss 3 or 4 stitches on each side and carry the treble over the indent of the scallop.

After finishing the picots of chain stitches on the two sides and as far as the 3rd treble of the large star, fasten off; fasten on again on the right of the large star: 4 chain, 1 plain on the 3rd chain; put the needle only through the 2 upper loops of the chain stitch; in the indent, connect 3 picots by 1 chain stitch; 2 chain and 1 plain between the next plain stitches. Fasten off. The 2 next rows both begin on the right and consist of plain stitches only; in the indent of the rings join 3 stitches of the preceding row together by 1 plain.

The 5 leaves over the circles—Begin with the middle and largest one—25 chain, miss 1, 3 plain, 2 chain, miss 2, 1 treble, 2 chain and so on, 7 trebles in all = turn the work = 1 plain on each stitch, passing under only 1 loop of the stitches = on the stitch you missed: 3 plain; on the second side: 1 plain on each stitch = turn the work = do as in the last row = turn the work = do as in the 2 last rows, excepting as regards the 5 last stitches which you leave untouched = turn the work = 15 plain, * 1 chain = turn the work = 12 plain = turn the work = 12 plain on the 12 plain and on all those you missed **. Fasten off the thread. On the 2nd side of the leaf: draw the thread through the 6th stitch, counting upwards from below and on the side that is not indented, 15 plain and repeat from * to ** = then make: 1 row of plain, putting the needle through both the loops of the lower stitches = at the points of the leaves: 3 plain, in the indents of the leaves miss 1 stitch.

First leaf on the right of the large leaf—25 chain, miss 1, 3 plain, 1 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd chain; 7 trebles in all = turn the work = 1 plain on each stitch, 18 stitches altogether, to the corner stitch; 3 plain on the corner stitch. The 2nd side is worked like the 1st.

Add 3 more rows of plain stitches and increase 3 plain on the stitch at the point = in the 3rd row leave the 5 last stitches empty = turn the work = 11 plain, 1 chain = turn the work = 11 plain and 5 plain on the 5 stitches that were passed over; fasten off.

On the opposite side fasten on the thread on the wrong side at the 8th stitch counting from the point: 12 plain, 1 chain = turn the work = 12 plain = turn the work = make plain stitches up to the end of the leaf and border it, like the large leaf, with plain stitches = join the 8 first stitches to the corresponding ones in the large leaf = make 4 leaves all alike.

2nd leaf on the left—19 chain, miss 1, 3 plain, 2 chain, 1 treble on the 2nd chain; 7 trebles in all = turn the work = 1 plain on each of the preceding stitches, 3 plain on the stitch at the point = turn the work = 1 row of plain stitches = turn the work = 1 row of plain = turn the work = 1 row of plain, excepting on the last 7 stitches = turn the work = 14 plain, 1 chain = 3 more rows to and fro with 11 plain; fasten off, and fasten on again on the 2nd side at the 6th stitch counting from below: 2 rows of 11 plain and 1 row to the end of the leaf = then encircle this leaf, like the others with plain stitches, join the 8 last stitches to the last 8 of the large leaf = make 4 leaves all alike.

3rd leaf on the right—18 chain, miss 1, 2 plain, 1 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd chain, 5 trebles in all = turn the work = 4 rows of plain worked to and fro; on the stitch at the point: 3 plain = after the 4th row: 4 trebles, 8 plain, 1 chain, 4 plain, 1 chain, 4 plain, 1 chain, then plain stitches to the end = fasten off. On the second side, fasten on to the 6th stitch counting downwards from the top: 9 plain = coming back: 3 plain, 1 chain, 7 plain = coming back: 7 plain, 1 chain = then to the end of the leaf, 1 plain on each stitch.

3rd leaf on the left—14 chain, miss 1, 2 plain, 2 chain, 1 treble, 2 chain, 1 treble, 2 chain, 1 treble, 2 chain, 1 treble; 4 rows of plain all round, 3 plain on the stitch at the point, and 3 plain on the added stitch. After the 4th row: 14 plain = turn the work = 10 plain = turn the work = 3 single, 7 plain = coming back: 7 plain = coming back again: 7 plain; after the last plain, 1 single on each plain up to the top = fasten off.

On the second side of the leaf: 9 plain = turn the work = 5 plain = turn the work = 5 plain, 1 single on each of the remaining stitches = turn the work = surround the whole leaf with plain stitches; 3 plain on each stitch at the point; join the 8 last stitches to the 8 last of the 2nd leaf.

Branch on the right and 1st leaf—28 chain, miss 1, 4 plain, 1 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd chain, 1 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd chain, 1 chain, 1 treble 11/2 treble long on the 3rd chain, 1 chain, 1 treble 11/2 treble long on the 3rd chain, 1 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd chain, 1 chain, 1 half treble on the 3rd chain, 1 chain, miss 2 stitches, 5 plain = on the second side of the chain: * 1 plain on each stitch, 3 plain on the 2nd of the missed stitches. Repeat 3 times from *. After the 4th row of plain: 6 chain = turn the work = 1 row of plain on both sides and plain stitches on the 6 chain; fasten off the thread. Counting back the last stitches, fasten on the thread at the 18th stitch, make one more row of plain, fasten off.

2nd leaf of the branch—22 chain, miss 1, 3 plain, 1 chain, 1 half treble on the 3rd chain, 1 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd chain, 1 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd chain, 1 chain, 1 half treble on the 3rd chain, 1 chain, 1 plain on the 3rd chain, 1 plain on each of the remaining stitches; 4 rows of plain, to and fro, in each of the stitches of the last row. The rows touch, and therefore encircle the leaf.

3rd leaf—16 chain, miss 1, 2 plain, 1 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd chain, 1 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd chain, 1 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd chain, 1 plain on each of the remaining stitches, 4 rows of plain, to and fro round the leaf; 3 plain on the stitch at the top of the leaf and 3 on the one at the bottom.

When these 3 leaves are finished, join them together on the wrong side so that the end of the 2nd leaf is parallel with the last treble of the 1st leaf, and the end of the 3rd leaf parallel with the 1st of the last plain stitches of the 2nd leaf. Having sewn these 3 leaves together, carry on the plain stitches with the thread of the 3rd little leaf over the two others. Fasten off the thread, join it on again at the 10th plain stitch of the 3rd little leaf, counting the stitches downwards from the top = 40 chain, 1 single on the 34th chain = on the ring: 10 plain, 1 plain each chain and 1 plain on each stitch of the leaves = then, make 3 more rows of plain and 2 plain on every second stitch of the 10 stitches in the ring.

Having reached the chain stitches, fasten on the thread, turn the work and continue the other rows. When the rows of plain stitches are finished, draw a thread through the chain stitches and pull them gently together.

Branch on the left and 1st leaf—22 chain, miss 1, 3 plain, 2 chain, 1 treble on the 2nd chain, 2 chain, 1 treble 11/2 treble long, 2 chain, miss 1, 1 treble, 11/2 treble long, 2 chain, miss 1, 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 1, 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 1, 1 plain on each of the remaining stitches. The remainder the same as for the right leaf.

2nd leaf—16 chain, miss 1, 2 plain, 2 chain, 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 1, 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 1, 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 1, 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 1, 1 plain on each of the remaining stitches. The rest the same as for the right leaf.

3rd leaf—12 chain, miss 1, 2 plain, 2 chain, miss 1, 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 1, 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 1, 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 1, 1 plain on each of the remaining stitches. The remainder, as well as the little ring, the same as for the right leaf. Make altogether 4 leaves for the right side and 4 for the left.

Calyx of the small flowers.—11 chain = turn the work = 1 plain on the first 5 chain, 3 plain on the 6th chain, 1 plain on the 5 other chain = turn the work = * 2 chain, 1 treble on the 1st plain, 1 chain, 1 treble, 1 chain, 1 treble, 1 chain, ** 3 trebles on the second of the 3 plain, on the 6th chain, repeat once from ** to * = turn the work = 1 plain on each of the preceding stitches, 3 single on the added stitch = turn the work = 1 single on the first 2 plain; plain stitches as far as the middle stitch; 13 chain, miss 1, 1 plain on each chain stitch, 6 plain, 2 single. Fasten off. Make 8 calices in all.

Small flowers of three different sizes—Make altogether, 24 large, 12 of medium size, and 16 small.

For the large flowers—18 chain, close the ring, 24 plain on the 18 chain; 1 plain on every stitch of the preceding row and 1 picot after every second plain stitch. Join the first and the last picots of 2 large flowers to the calyx, the 2nd and the 3rd picots of one large flower to the 10th and 11th picots of the other. Join the 1st and 11th picots of the 3rd flower to the 8th picot of the first and to the 5th of the second flower.

For the medium-sized flowers—14 chain, close the ring = 20 plain on the ring, then a second row of plain with 1 picot after every second plain stitch.

These flowers connect the centre figure with the corner one.

For the small flowers—10 chain, close the ring = 16 plain on the ring, then a second row of plain stitches with a picot after every second stitch. Sew the medium-sized flowers and the small ones to the big ones with overcasting stitches.

As regards the bars of chain stitches that complete the pattern they can easily be copied from the illustration.

FOOTNOTES:

[A] See at the end of the concluding chapter, the table of numbers and sizes and the list of colours of the D.M.C threads and cottons.



Tatting.

On account of a similarity in their construction, a chapter on tatting seems to form a natural sequence to the one on crochet and is in some ways a preparation for that on macrame which succeeds it.

The English name of tatting is said to be derived from "tatters" and to denote the frail disconnected character of the fabric. By the Italians it was formerly called "occhi", whilst in the East it still bears the name of "makouk", from the shuttle used in making it.

In the eighteenth century, when tatting was in great vogue, much larger shuttles than our present ones were used, because of the voluminous materials they had to carry, silk cord being one.

SHUTTLES.—The tatting shuttle consists of two oval blades of either bone, ivory, mother of pearl or tortoise-shell, pointed at both ends, and joined together in the middle. A good shuttle contributes materially to the rapid and perfect execution of the work and attention should be paid in its selection to the following particulars: that it be not more than 7 c/m. long and 2 or 3 c/m. wide: that the two ends be close enough to prevent the thread from protruding; this is more especially important in tatting with two shuttles and lastly, that the centre piece that joins the two oval blades together should have a hole bored in it, large enough for the thread to pass through.

In filling the shuttle, be careful not to wind on too much thread at once, or the blades will gape open at the ends and the thread get soiled by constant contact with the worker's hands.

MATERIALS.—A strongly twisted thread such as Fil d'Alsace D.M.C, Fil a dentelle D.M.C, or Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C, is best for tatting. We particularly recommend Fil d'Alsace, as forming the best shaped knots and picots. A soft material such as Coton a tricoter D.M.C, can also be used where it suits the purpose better.



FIRST POSITION OF THE HANDS (fig. 486).—The construction of the knots or stitches, appears at first sight to present great difficulties but will be easily mastered by attention to the indications here given. One thing, to be constantly borne in mind is, that when the right hand has passed the shuttle through the loop, it must stop with a sudden jerk and hold the thread tightly extended until the left hand has drawn up the knot. After filling the shuttle, take the end of the thread between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, and the shuttle in the right, pass the thread over the third and fourth fingers of the left hand, bring it back towards the thumb and cross the two threads under the fingers, as indicated in fig. 486. Pass the thread that comes from the shuttle round the little finger of the right hand, and give the shuttle the direction shown in the engraving.

SECOND AND THIRD POSITION OF THE HANDS (figs. 487 and 488).—Make the shuttle pass between the first and third fingers, in the direction indicated by the arrow in fig. 487, and bring it out behind the loop.



Here the first difficulties for beginners arise and until they have sufficiently mastered the movements of both hands not to confuse them, we advise them to pay careful attention to the following instructions. As soon as you have put the shuttle through the loop, place the right hand on the table with the thread tightly extended, leaving the left hand perfectly passive.

Then, raising the third and fourth fingers of the left hand with the loop upon them, pull up the loop, stretching the thread tightly in so doing by extending the fingers. By this movement a knot is formed, the first part of the "double knot", which is the most common one in tatting.

Remember that the right hand must be kept perfectly still as long as the left is in motion and that the knot must be formed of the loop thread that is in the left hand.

The right hand, or shuttle thread, must always be free to run through the knots; if it were itself formed into knots it would not have the free play, needed for loosening and tightening the loop on the left hand, as required.



FOURTH POSITION OF THE HANDS (fig. 489).—The second part of a knot is formed by the following movements: pass the shuttle, as indicated in fig. 489, from left to right, between the first and third fingers through the extended loop; the right hand seizes the shuttle in front of the empty loop and extends the thread; the left hand pulls up this second part of the knot as it did the first.



SINGLE OR HALF KNOTS. JOSEPHINE PICOTS (figs. 490 and 491).—The Josephine picot or purl, as it is also called in tatting, consists of a series of single or half knots formed of the first knot only. These picots may be made of 4 or 5 knots, as in fig. 490, or of 10 or 12 knots, as in fig. 491.

FIFTH POSITION OF THE HANDS (fig. 492).—When the second knot forming the double knot has been made, the two hands resume the position shown in fig. 487. Fig. 492 reproduces the same and shows us a few finished knots as well.



POSITION OF THE HANDS FOR MAKING A PICOT (fig. 493).—Picots are introduced into tatting patterns as they are into knitting and crochet. They also serve to connect the different parts of a pattern together and render a great many pretty combinations feasible.

OPEN AND CLOSE PICOT (figs. 494 and 495).—These are formed of single knots, leaving a loop on the extended thread, as shown in fig. 494, and a short length of thread between the knots; finish the second half knot and when you have pulled it up, join it to the preceding knot. In this manner the picot represented in fig. 496 is formed quite naturally.



In every kind of tatting the knot that comes after the picot is independent of the loop.

Thus if the directions say: 2 knots, 1 picot, 3 knots, 1 picot, 2 knots, etc., you must count the knot that served to form the loop and not make: 2 knots, 1 picot, 4 knots, etc. To join the different rings, ovals, etc., together by means of picots, take up the thread that runs over the left hand with a crochet needle, inserting it into the picot downwards from above, draw the thread through and pull it up like any other knot.



TATTING WITH TWO SHUTTLES (fig. 496).—Two shuttles are used in tatting when the little rings are not to be connected together at the bottom by a thread, when you want to hide the passage of the thread to another group of knots and when threads of several colours are used.

When you work with two shuttles, tie the two threads together. Pass one thread over the third finger of the left hand, wind it twice round the fourth finger and leave the shuttle hanging down.

Pass the second shuttle into the right hand and make the same movements with it as you do in working with one shuttle only.

DETACHED SCALLOPS (fig. 497).—Make 12 double knots with one shuttle, then tighten the thread so as to draw them together into a half ring; the next knot must touch the last knot of the scallop before it.

]

SCALLOPS JOINED TOGETHER AT THE TOP (fig. 498). With one shuttle make 4 double, 1 picot, * 8 double, 1 picot, 4 double, close the half ring, 4 double, draw the thread through the picot and repeat from *.

]

SCALLOPS WITH PICOTS (fig. 499).—Make with one shuttle: 4 double, 1 picot, * 3 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 3 double, 1 picot, 4 double, close the ring.

]

Leave sufficient length of thread before beginning the next ring, for the rings not to overlap each other = make 4 double, draw the left hand thread through the 5th picot of the preceding ring and repeat from *.

TATTED INSERTION (fig. 500).—Make with one shuttle a ring like the ones in fig. 499, then leaving a length of, from 5 to 10 m/m. of thread, make a second ring = turn the work = leave the same length of thread again, begin a third ring which you join after the 4th double, to the 5th picot of the 1st ring = turn the work after each ring is made, so that all the upper rings represent the right side of the work and all the lower ones the wrong.



TATTED INSERTION (fig. 501).—To be worked with two shuttles. Begin with one thread and one shuttle and make a ring, as in figs. 499 and 500; and a second close to it; then pass the thread over the left hand, take the second shuttle in the right hand and make 6 double on the 2nd thread, after which you again make a ring above and one below with one shuttle only.

EDGING OF TATTING AND CROCHET (fig. 502).—Make with one shuttle: 1 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot twice as long as the others, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 long picot, 1 double = close the ring = fasten off the two threads on the wrong side with two or three stitches.

After the first knot join the next ring to the preceding one by the long picot, and work the remainder as has been already described.

When you have a sufficient number of rings, pick up the picots by crochet trebles with 3 chain stitches between them. On this first row, crochet a second, consisting of: 2 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain, 1 single in the treble of the 1st row. To finish the bottom part of the work, make 1 plain in the 1st picot, 3 chain; 1 plain in the 2nd picot, 3 chain, 1 plain in the 3rd picot, 1 chain, 1 plain in the 1st picot of the next ring.

One row of single crochet serves as a footing to the edging.



TATTED EDGING IN THREE ROWS (fig. 503).—Worked with two shuttles. The first row is worked like fig. 495, with one shuttle. The second and third are worked with two.

Fasten the thread of the right hand shuttle into the first picot; then work on this thread the same number of double knots and picots as in the 1st row and join each half ring to the picot of the row before. In the 3rd row, insert 3 picots between the 8 double knots of the row above. Here the Josephine picot may be substituted for the plain picot.



TATTED EDGING (fig. 504).—Worked with two shuttles and two colours. After making a string of rings like those in fig. 502, with Fil d'Alsace D.M.C No. 30 ecru, fasten the blue and unbleached threads of the respective shuttles to the middle picot. Holding the light thread in the right hand, and the dark one laid over the left hand, work: 3 double, 1 picot, 3 double = then put the right hand thread separately through the 2 picots of the rings and continue to make: 3 double, 1 picot, 3 double.

The next row also is made with two shuttles. Hold the light thread in the right hand; with the dark thread, laid across the left hand, make: * 4 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double = turn the work = with the right hand shuttle make: 6 double, put the thread through the little picot formed above the middle picot of the rings, 6 double, close the ring = turn the work = make with two shuttles: 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 4 double, put the light thread through the 2 blue picots and repeat from *. The first row of crochet for the footing consists of chain and plain stitches only, the second, of chain stitches and trebles.

MEDALLION (fig. 505).—Take two colours of thread and fill two shuttles with the light colour and two with the dark. Make with one shuttle: 24 double and 12 picots, 6 of them short and 6 long; close the ring, break off the thread and fasten off the ends by a stitch or two on the wrong side.—For the next 4 rows take two shuttles.

COLOURS: White and Rouge-Geranium 352, or ecru and Vert-Mousse 471, Bleu pale 668 and Jaune d'Or 676.]

1st row—with the shuttles containing the light colour = fasten the ends on to a short picot and make: * 3 double, 1 short picot, 2 double, 1 long picot, 2 double, 1 long picot, 2 double, 1 long picot, 2 double, 1 short picot, 3 double; pass the right hand thread through one of the short picots of the first ring, repeat the series 5 times from *.

When you reach the 6th half ring, instead of making the second picot, put the left hand thread through the short picot of the first half ring, then complete the last double knots, cut the threads off, pass them through the picot of the ring and fasten them off on the wrong side.

2nd row—with the shuttles filled with the light colour = fasten the ends on to a long picot, then make: * 4 double, 1 picot, 4 double, pass the right hand thread through the picot of the first row and repeat the series 17 times from *.

3rd row—with the shuttles filled with the dark colour = fasten the ends on to one of the picots of the last row and make: * 4 double, pass the right hand thread through the picot of the 2nd row, make a long picot, 4 double and repeat this series all round the medallion, until you have 18 scallops.

4th row—with the shuttles filled with the dark colour = * 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, pass the right hand thread, from the wrong side, through the picot of the 2nd row and begin again from *.



INSERTION OF TATTING AND CROCHET (fig. 506).—Fill two shuttles, one with a light colour, say, Bleu de France 344, the other with a darker, such as Jaune-Rouille 365, and two numbers coarser than the thread you intend to use for the crochet. Begin with the dark colour and make: * 4 double, 1 picot, 8 double, 1 picot, 4 double, close the ring. With both shuttles, the light colour in the left hand: 4 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 4 double, put the right hand thread through the picot of the first circle; then add: 4 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 4 double.

With the shuttle, filled with the dark colour: 5 double, pass the thread through the picot of the first ring, make 8 double, 1 picot, 5 double, close the ring. Then, leaving a short length of thread between, make: 4 double, put the thread through the picot of the preceding ring, 8 double, 1 picot, 4 double, close the ring **; then repeat from * to **.

When you have thus made two equal lengths, join them together with crochet, using a thread two numbers finer than the tatting thread; if the latter for instance was Fil d'Alsace No. 30, you would take No. 50 of the same material for the crochet—1 plain in the 1st picot, 5 chain, 1 plain in the middle picot, 5 chain, 1 plain in the 3rd and 1st picot = then, over 5 chain: 1 sextuple cluster stitch (fig. 426), 5 chain.

In the row on the opposite side of the tatting, take out the crochet needle at the 3rd chain stitch and put it in from beneath into the corresponding stitch of the opposite row; in this manner join the two insertions together so as to complete the pattern.

For the crochet: The same materials, but two numbers finer.]



INSERTION OF TATTING AND CROCHET (figs. 507 and 508).—Worked with one shuttle. The tatting thread should be two numbers coarser than the crochet thread. Begin with 2 strings of half rings consisting of: 4 short picots and 3 long. Leave a length of thread between, equal to the diameter of the ring.

When the two strings of half rings are finished, crochet with the fine thread: 6 plain over each length of thread between, and at the base of the scallops.

2nd row—5 chain, 1 plain in the 4th plain of the 1st row.

In the row that connects the two rows of tatting, put the 3rd chain stitch into the corresponding stitch of the opposite row.

For the outside edge make: 1 plain in the 1st short picot, 8 chain *, 1 treble in the 2nd short picot, 7 chain, 1 treble in the 3rd short picot, 8 chain, 1 plain in the 4th short picot, 1 plain in the short picot opposite, 3 chain, pass the thread through the 4th of the 8 chain stitches, 4 chain and repeat from *.

For the last row make: 3 plain in each of the 3 last of 8 chain, * 1 picot of 5 chain above the treble, 4 plain in the 4 next chain, 1 picot, 1 single in the same stitch as the plain before the picot, 3 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain, miss the 1st and the last stitch, then make 3 plain on the next scallop and repeat from *.



EDGING OF TATTING AND CROCHET (fig. 509).—Worked with two shuttles and in two shades. With the light shade: 2 double, 1 short picot, 2 double, 1 long picot, * 2 double, 1 picot of the ordinary size, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 long picot, 2 double, 1 short picot, 2 double, close the ring = with 2 shuttles: 3 double, pass the thread through the 1st picot, make 3 double, 1 long picot, 2 double = with the light shade: 4 double, pass the thread through the 9th picot of the 1st ring, make 3 double, 1 picot, 4 double, close the ring = with 2 shuttles: 2 double, 1 picot, 3 double, 1 short picot, 3 double = with one shuttle: 2 double, pass the thread through the empty picot of the small ring, make 2 double, pass the thread through the long picot of the big ring, then repeat from *.

To complete the edge, crochet first one row, consisting of: * 1 plain in the 1st of the 5 picots of the big ring, 4 chain, 1 plain in the 2nd picot, 4 chain, 1 plain in the 3rd picot, 4 chain, 1 plain in the 4th picot, 4 chain, 1 plain in the 5th picot and repeat from *.

2nd row—2 plain on the 3rd and 4th of the first chain stitches = over the 2nd and 3rd chain: 1 plain, 1 half treble, 2 trebles, 1 half treble, 1 plain; on the 4 last chain: 2 plain.

For the footing make: 1 plain in the long picot, 5 chain, 1 plain in the next picot, 5 chain, 1 double treble in the short picot, leave the 2 last loops of the treble on the needle = 3 trebles in the first lower loop of the double treble, keep the last loops of these 3 trebles on the needle, after the 4th treble, draw the needle through the 4 trebles. The last row consists of: 3 chain, 1 treble over 5 chain.

TATTED MEDALLION (fig. 510).—Worked with two shuttles and two colours.

1st row—with one shuttle: 12 double and 6 picots, close the ring.

2nd row—with two shuttles and the dark coloured thread laid across the left hand = knot the threads into one of the picots of the 1st ring: 1 double, 1 long picot, 2 double, pass the right hand thread through one of the picots of the ring, 1 picot, 2 double and so on. After the 12th picot fasten off the threads on the wrong side by two or three stitches.

COLOURS: Gris-Tilleul 330 and Rouge-Cardinal 304.[A]]

3rd row—with one shuttle: * 3 double, pass the thread through one of the picots of the 2nd row, make 3 double, close the ring = leave 5 m/m. of thread = turn the work = 4 double, 1 picot, 4 double, close the ring = leave 5 m/m. of thread again and repeat 11 times from *.

4th row—with two shuttles; fasten the ends to one of the picots of one of the 12 rings of the 3rd row: * 3 double, 1 picot, 3 double = with one shuttle: 3 double, pass the thread through the picot, 3 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 3 double, close the ring = close to this: 3 double, pass the thread through the 2nd picot of the 1st ring, 3 double, 1 picot, 3 double, close the ring = again, close to the last ring: 3 double, pass the thread through the picot of the 2nd ring, 2 double, 1 picot, 3 double, close the ring = with 2 shuttles: 3 double, pass the thread through the 2nd picot of the 3rd ring, 3 double, fasten the thread to the picot of the ring of the 3rd row and repeat 11 times from *.

5th row—with two shuttles and the dark colour across the left hand: 6 double and 2 picots over the lower rings and 10 double and 4 picots over the upper rings.



TATTED EDGING (fig. 511).—With two shuttles and with the two colours indicated, or in any other combination of colours.

Begin with two shuttles, the red thread across the left hand = 10 double, 1 picot, 6 double = with one shuttle: 6 double, 1 picot, 6 double, close the ring = turn the work = make a second ring like the first and close to it = turn the work = with two shuttles: 6 double, 1 picot, 6 double = with one shuttle: 6 double, pass the thread through the picot of the ring opposite, 6 double, close the ring = 6 double, 1 picot, 6 double, close the ring = turn the work to make the next half ring.

Make 3 rows of half rings connected by rings. In the 2nd row, you pass the thread from the ring through the picot to which the 2nd ring was fastened in the 1st row.

For the outside scallops, make with one shuttle: * 5 double, pass the thread through the picot that connects 2 rings, 5 double, close the ring = with two shuttles: 4 double = with one shuttle: 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, pass the thread through the picot of the half ring of the 3rd row, 2 double; then 8 picots more with 2 double between each, close the ring = with two shuttles: 4 double, 1 long picot, 2 double, 1 short picot, 2 double, 1 short picot, 3 double = with one shuttle: 5 double, pass the thread through the 3rd picot of the big ring, 5 double, close the ring = with two shuttles: 2 double, 6 picots with 2 double after each picot = with one shuttle: 5 double, pass the thread through the 3rd picot of the big ring, 5 double, close the ring = with two shuttles: 3 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 4 double, pass the right hand thread through the 6th picot of the big ring = with two shuttles: 4 double, then repeat from *.

The footing is worked in crochet and consists of one row of chain stitches and one of trebles.

SQUARE OF TATTING (fig. 512).—Worked with two shuttles and two colours. With the light colour: 2 double, 1 picot, 4 double, 1 picot, 4 double, 1 picot, 4 double, 1 picot, 2 double, close the ring.

1st row—with two shuttles, the dark coloured thread across the left hand = fasten the thread to a picot and make: * 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, pass the right hand thread through the picot of the ring; 1 picot over the connecting thread, then repeat 3 times from *. The last picot over the picot of the small ring is made at the end.

2nd row—with two shuttles, the light thread over the left hand = fasten the thread to the picot over the light picot: * 2 double, pass the right hand thread through the picot of the 1st row, 1 long picot over the lower picot, 3 double, pass the thread through the next picot of the 1st row = in the corner, 1 rather longer picot than the one before, 3 double, pass the right hand thread through a picot, 1 long picot, 2 double, pass the thread through a picot; repeat 3 times from *. To form the last picot, fasten off the thread on the wrong side by two or three stitches.

COLOURS: Jaune-Rouille 366 and Brun-Caroubier 359.[A]]

3rd row—with one shuttle and the dark colour: * 4 double, pass the thread through the picot above the picot of the small ring, 4 double, close the ring = leave 10 m/m. of thread, make a second ring like the 1st = leave 10 m/m. of thread, make 6 double, pass the thread through the long picot, 6 double, close the ring = leave 10 m/m. of thread, make another ring of 12 knots, fasten it to the same picot, the preceding knot is fastened to; then make a ring of 8 double knots and repeat 3 times from *.

4th row—with one shuttle and the light colour and worked like the 3rd row, leaving a rather longer length of thread between; then make: 16 instead of 12 double for the corner rings.

5th row—with one shuttle and the light colour = 8 double, fasten the thread to one of the corner loops and between 2 rings of the 4th ring: 8 double, close the ring = turn the work = leave a length of thread, 3 double, 1 picot, then 4 times 2 double knots and 1 picot, 3 double, close the ring. Make the second ring as close as possible to the first, beginning and finishing the second with 5 double knots = make a 3rd ring like the 1st, join it to the 2nd ring by the 4th picot = turn the work = make another ring of 16 knots and join it to the same loop of the 4th row, to which the two other rings are already joined = turn the work = 1 ring above, with 4 picots, like the first one we described, then a ring of 12 double knots below.

At the top, 6 detached half rings, placed between 3 connected rings, which form the corners. The top rings are to be joined after the 3rd double knot, to the 4th picot of the preceding ring.

6th row—with two shuttles and the dark colour only = fasten the threads to a picot that serves as a connecting link, take the dark thread over the left hand and make: 3 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 3 double = fasten the thread to the connecting picot and carry the half rings all round the square.

FOOTNOTES:

[A] See at the end of the concluding chapter, the table of numbers and sizes and the list of colours of the D.M.C threads and cottons.



Macrame.

Macrame is an Arabic word, signifying an ornamental fringe or trimming, which has been adopted as the term for a certain kind of hand-work, known also as "knotted fringe" or "Mexican lace" and produced by the knotting, interweaving and tying together of threads.

We have given the preference to the Arabic name because of its less definite meaning, seeing that not only fringe and lace, but trimmings of all kinds, in the shape of bands and stripes and headings, can be worked in macrame.

Until its revival about ten years ago, when it was regarded by many as a new invention, the art of macrame making had for centuries become almost extinct and save here and there in the convents, was quite unknown.

The multitude of uses to which it can be turned as a trimming, the infinite variety it admits of and its great durability and strength, make macrame well worth a study; the difficulties that repel many at first sight are only on the surface and any one who carefully follows the instructions given in the following pages, will soon overcome them and be able without pains to copy the charming designs that accompany them, which remind us of the wooden lattices in the windows of Eastern houses, doubtless familiar to many of our readers, under the name of moucharabieh.

MATERIALS.—These may be of almost any kind; silk, gold thread, cord, wool or cotton, can all be employed with good effect. Almost any of the D.M.C cottons can be used for macrame; but the ones especially to be recommended are: Fil a dentelle D.M.C[A], Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C[A] and Coton a broder D.M.C[A] for the finer kinds of work, and for the coarser, Fil a pointer D.M.C[A], Coton a tricoter D.M.C[A] and Ganse turque D.M.C[A]. The twist in all these is so regular as to admit of a high degree of perfection being attained with them: they are moreover very agreeable to the touch, a great recommendation considering how much they have to be handled by the worker.



MACRAME CUSHION AND OTHER ACCESSORIES (figs. 513 and 514).—The only really important requisite for macrame work is the cushion, which should be well stuffed, and weighted with lead (fig. 513). It is convenient to have it made to screw on to a table like the Swiss tambour frames. There are other kinds of macrame cushions but none, in our opinion, as practical as these because any pattern can be worked upon them and patterns that have a heading or a border of picots can not be worked on any others. The pegs at the ends of the cushion are for fixing and winding the long threads upon, which carry the knots, and which we shall in future call "cords".

For making long lengths of macrame fringe, metal clamps, with round-headed pegs attached to them top and bottom, to fasten the cords to, as represented in fig. 514, will be found far better than a cushion, as any number of threads can be knotted on to them at a time by pushing them more or less closely together on the cord.



Besides the cushion and clamps, you will require, some big glass-headed pins, made expressly for the purpose, a crochet needle for pulling the threads through the stuff when they have to be knotted on to an edge, and a French metre or yard measure to measure the threads with; to these implements may further be added, scissors and a metal comb and ruler for cutting and straightening the ends of the threads.

The length of the threads must depend on their substance and size; that is to say, that a knot will take up more of a coarse stiff thread than of a fine pliable one, on which account, to avoid the necessity of preliminary trials, the right length of thread, for the quality and size of material, is given with each pattern. If, for any reason, our workers should not follow the directions given, they must bear in mind that the thicker and stiffer the material, the more they will have to allow for the knots and vice versa.

FORMATION OF THE KNOTS.—Beginners must be careful, in macrame as in tatting, not to move or slacken the cord, or horizontal thread that carries the knots. The knots made by the "knotting-thread", as it will be called in future, consist of loops formed over the cord and then tightened. The knotting-thread and the cord are constantly changing places, as you work, loops having to be made now with the one and now with the other.



KNOTTING ON THE THREADS (fig. 515).—Excepting when you work with the threads of a material obtained by unravelling and drawing out the cross threads, you must knot on lengths of thread on to a cord; cut them double the length the fringe is to be and fold them in half, so as to form a loop by means of which you attach them to the cord, in the following manner. Put the loop over the cord from the front and bring it back underneath, put the ends down through the loop, detail a, and tighten it, detail b, as shown in the engraving.



KNOTTING ON THE THREADS ON TO A STUFF EDGE AND FORMATION OF A FLAT DOUBLE KNOT (fig. 516).—Push your crochet needle through the edge of the stuff from the right to the wrong side and catch hold of the loop, formed by the folding in half of the thread that is to be knotted on; pull it out to the right side, put the ends through, and tighten the loop, detail a. Detail b shows two double threads, knotted on near to each other in this way, and the first tying together of the two outer threads for the flat knot which is formed as follows: you take the two outer of the four threads hanging down and cross the right hand one under, and the left hand one over the two centre threads. Whilst doing this, hold the inner ones tightly stretched out on the 3rd and 4th fingers of the left hand, detail b. The manner in which the two threads are brought back and tied together again is shown in detail c; the drawing up of the threads completes the so-called flat double knot, detail d. Detail e, of the same figure, shows two flat double knots, side by side, and the first step towards the formation of a third, connecting together the two right threads of the one with the two left threads of the other.



KNOTTING ON THREADS ON TO A KNOTTED HEADING (fig. 517).—Make flat double knots as in fig. 516, detail d, on a double cord and then knot on your threads on to the loops of the double knots, putting the loop through from the right side, so that it may lie at the back. Use double threads so that the work beneath the heading may not be too open.



KNOTTING ON THREADS ON TO A PICOT HEADING (fig. 518).—First, crochet a row of chain stitches, then make flat double knots on the chain, far enough apart for the thread between to form picots on the chain, then a second chain of crochet drawn through the picots on one side, on to which tie triple or quadruple lengths of thread, as shown in the engraving.

KNOTTING ON THREADS WITH ROUND PICOTS (fig. 519).—Fasten the lengths of thread to the cushion with pins, about half a c/m. apart, fix the cord to one of the pegs at the left end of the cushion, hold it tightly extended in a horizontal line with the right hand. With the left hand knot the threads that are pinned down on to the cord, looping each end twice round it, upwards from below and then drawing it through between the two loops or knots thus formed, pulling each knot to the left as you tighten it round the cord. Make the second row of knots in the same way, taking care to lay the second cord as close to the first as possible that the vertical threads may not be visible between. One series of knots forms a bar; there are both horizontal and slanting bars as will be seen later on.



KNOTTING ON THREADS WITH A FRINGE HEADING (fig. 520).—Knot the threads on with a picot heading, as explained in the preceding figure, then cut the picots through and unravel and comb out the threads.

For this way of knotting on threads, a very strongly twisted material is better than a loose one, as when it is cut and untwisted, it makes a much richer and fuller fringe.

KNOTTING ON WITH PICOTS AND FLAT DOUBLE KNOTS (fig. 521).—Take two threads, pin them on close together, make a flat double knot, fig. 516, tying the outer threads over the inner ones, and loop the ends over a cord to make a horizontal bar of knots.

KNOTTING ON THREADS WITH PICOTS AND TWO FLAT DOUBLE KNOTS (figs. 522 and 523).—Pin the two threads on as before and make two flat double knots, one below the other; detail a shows the first knot begun, detail b the two knots completed. Fig. 523 shows the picots secured by a horizontal bar of knots beneath them.



KNOTTING ON THREADS WITH SCALLOPS (fig. 524).—The threads for the scallops must be cut much longer than those that are to be knotted on below them. The buttonhole loops must be so made that they turn upwards; and there must be 12 of them, all made with the left hand thread over the right hand thread, detail a. Then, knot on two double threads underneath the scallop and besides, make knots with the threads that come from the scallops, detail b.



KNOTTING ON THREADS WITH LOOPS (fig. 525).—Pin on two threads folded in half, a little distance apart, detail a, and bind them together with a flat double knot. Pin on more lengths close to them, the inner threads of which are held by a "collecting knot", as the flat double knot is called when it is made over more than two threads (see also fig. 530). The ends of the threads can then be looped over one or two cords, so as to form a single or double bar of knots, as required.



KNOTTING ON THREADS WITH TRIPLE SCALLOPS (fig. 526).—Knot on three single threads in succession; first, the middle one, then the second, with the knot right and left and the loop long enough to form the scallop, then the third in the same manner.

KNOTTING ON THREADS FOR RIBBED PICOTS (fig. 527).—Take a double thread and make two slanting bars of knots, see details a and b, then secure them, like the preceding scallops by a horizontal bar of knots, see detail c.

KNOTTING ON THREADS FOR A GIMP HEADING (fig. 528).—This mode of knotting on forms a broad gimp, consisting of vertical bars of knots, made over a single cord. On the one side, that which is afterwards turned downwards, the cord, the ribs are made on, forms loops, held with pins, into which meshes of threads can be knotted when the gimp is finished, for making either a fringe or a grounding.

Patterns in several colours may likewise be knotted into gimp headings of this kind.



FLAT DOUBLE KNOTS WITH HALF KNOTS (fig. 529).—These are double knots followed by a third knot, or more correctly speaking, a half one of the first flat knots.

COLLECTING KNOTS (fig. 530).—As explained in fig. 525, these are flat double knots, made over more than two threads. The engraving shows, in the first place on the left, a flat double knot made over two threads, completed, and the first crossing of the thread for the collecting knot; secondly, the second crossing of the threads; thirdly how the collecting knot can, if necessary, be continued over 4 threads, and fourthly, how the collecting knot should be made to finish with a flat double knot.

PLAITED AND WAVED KNOTS (fig. 531).—Plaited knots are formed by a continuous repetition of the first crossing of the threads for making a flat knot, detail a; waved knots by a slight twist given to the plaited knots from left to right, detail b. These plaits of waved knots are secured by joining together the threads of opposite meshes, two and two, by a flat double knot.



SINGLE CROSSED KNOTS AND DOUBLE CROSSED KNOTS (figs. 532 and 533).—Two plain crossings of the threads, detail a, to begin with; after which you rapidly reverse the threads, turning the knot to the wrong side, drawing it up tightly at the same time; this forms the first knot, detail b. The second knot, fig. 533, is formed by 3 crossings, detail a; reverse the threads rapidly, to form the double crossed knot, detail b. For the following knots tie the threads together, as for the flat double knot, detail c.

LOOPED PICOT AND KNOTTED PICOTS (figs. 534 and 535).—Looped picots are made along a row of knots by setting the knots, far enough apart for the loop between, to form a picot when the knots are drawn up close together. In fig. 534, the detail a represents the picot, in its first open stage, detail b the same picot when it is finished.

Knotted picots, fig. 535, are formed after one or more flat double knots, by a knot made in the outer thread; to get this knot into the right place, make it on a big pin and draw it up close to the flat knot before you take out the pin.



These picots are always made on both sides and can be repeated several times along a row of knots. Detail a shows the crossing of the threads for the picots, detail b the picots completed and followed by a flat knot.



BEAD KNOTS (fig. 536).—A bead knot is made by turning back the threads after a row of flat double knots. Detail a shows three flat double knots finished, detail b the inner threads turned back over the flat double knots, detail c the two knotting threads, brought between the two threads coming from the left to the right, and detail d the bead knot finished and followed by a flat double knot.

BARS OF KNOTS TO THE RIGHT AND LEFT (figs. 537, 538, 539, 540, 541, 542, 543, 544).—After knotting on the requisite number of threads on to a double cord, make two buttonhole loops with the right thread round the left one, fig. 537, then knot each thread twice over the second cord, fig. 538. These knots must be as close together as possible. This done, begin to make the slanting bars, inclining from left to right, with 4 threads.

The first thread on the left, marked 1 in fig. 540, serves as cord to the threads 2, 3, 4, which are looped in succession over thread 1.

Fig. 541 represents threads 2, 3 and 4, knotted thread 1 and in the second bar, thread 2 becoming in its turn the cord, and having threads 3, 4 and 1 knotted over it, whilst it is being held, tightly stretched in the right hand. The knotting should be done with the left hand.

In fig. 542, which represents a bar inclining from right to left, threads 3, 2 and 1 are knotted over thread 4; and in fig. 543, in the second row, threads 2, 1, 4 over thread 3. Here, it has to be the left hand that holds the thread extended from right to left, whilst the right hand does the knotting.



Fig. 544 explains how the double bars are bound together by an ordinary double knot.



SINGLE CHAIN (fig. 545).—This is made with two single threads, by knotting them alternately over each other, that is, each in turns serving as cord to the other.

DOUBLE CHAIN (fig. 546).—The double chain is made in the same manner as the single, only with a double thread.

Both the double and single chain are generally used in macrame gimps and borders as a means of conducting threads of different colours, from one part of a pattern to another, which could be done in no other way; also, as a continuation to the Chinese knot, fig. 607, as described at the end of this chapter.



RIBBED BORDER (fig. 547).—Here, the same cord runs to and fro; the 4 threads that hang down, form little ribbed bars running right and left. To distinguish from the knotting threads, the thread that runs to and fro it, is represented in a darker colour.

MACRAME FRINGE (figs. 548, 549, 550).—Entire length of the threads for No. 8 of Coton a tricoter D.M.C: 80 c/m.



1st row—knot on the threads, as in fig. 515, and in the following order: 1 double white thread, 2 double red, 1 double blue and so on.

2nd row—make a horizontal bar of knots, see figs. 519, 520 and 521, over a second cord.

3rd row—3 buttonhole knots, fig. 524, each with 2 threads.

4th row—like the 2nd.

5th row—make slanting bars of double knots right and left, counting 6 threads for each bar, consequently 12 for 2. The 1st and 12th thread serving as the cords for the knots. In the 2nd series of knots which forms the double slanting bar, make another double knot over the cord with the thread that served as cord in the preceding row.

When the slanting bars are finished, bring them as close together as possible, tighten the last thread on the right and make another double knot with the left thread; the position of all the threads is clearly described in fig. 549. Then continue the bars in the opposite direction, so that the 2nd thread on the left is stretched over the right hand group of threads, and the 11th thread on the right over the left hand group.



Make 3 rows of double bars and then take always 3 threads of a left hand group and 3 of a right hand one, tie them loosely together in a plain knot, put in, above the knot, a bunch of 8 threads, 15 c/m. long, fig. 550 detail a, draw up the knot close to the bars and wind thread of a different colour several times round it, detail b, to form the tassel.

The other bunches of threads which are hung on between two bars of knots must be tied on the same level with the first, but do not, nevertheless, come into close contact with the bars.



INSERTION OR FRINGE (figs. 551 and 552).—Entire length of the threads for No. 8 of Coton a tricoter D.M.C: 50 c/m., including the fringe.

1st row—knot on the threads as in fig. 515.

2nd row—1 double horizontal bar of knots, as in figs. 519 or 520, over double cords.

3rd row—Take 8 threads for a group of bars; 2 light and 2 dark ones on each side; the two sets of threads are numbered in fig. 552, a working detail of fig. 551, from 1 to 4.

Begin by making all the knots over threads 1 and 2 of the left set, so that threads 3 and 4 on the left will be outside and threads 1 and 2 inside the group. Make the same knots over the 3rd and 4th thread on the right, then repeat the left group again and so on.



Repeat from the beginning, and make 2 double knots over thread 3 on the right, fig. 552, with threads 1 and 2 on the left, then again 2 knots over thread 4 on the right. When this series of knots is finished, make: 3 double knots over thread 1 (dark-coloured in the engraving) with the left thread 2 and the right threads 1 and 2; make on the left: 3 knots over thread 4 with the right thread 3 and the left threads 2 and 1, and so on.

When this pattern is worked for a gimp and not a fringe, the threads are made to end in knots, as explained in fig. 558.



GIMP MADE WITH MACRAME SHUTTLES (figs. 553, 554, 555).—Cut 8 double threads of the length the gimp is to be.

In order not to have to add on threads in the middle of the work, or have long ends hanging down, which are very much in the way, we recommend the employment of a new macrame shuttle, a kind of spool, such as are used in the making of pillow lace. These shuttles simplify the work enormously and are made hollow so that they can be mounted and filled on the spindle of any sewing machine.

Knot on the threads, as in fig. 515, and make a single bar of knots. Then leaving 2 threads on the right and 2 on the left disengaged, make 3 flat double knots with every set of 4 threads between. Make a slanting bar of double knots over the 16th right thread, with the 15th, 14th, 13th, 12th, 11th, 10th and 9th thread; then make knots with the same threads and with the 16th over the 15th thread. Make a similar bar on the left, over the 1st thread, with the 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, 6th, 7th and 8th thread.



COLOURS: Bleu-Indigo 311 and Brun-Marron 406.[A]]



On both sides, and with the 4 outer threads: 4 flat double knots, fig. 516, detail d; 2 more bars on the right and left, but in the opposite direction, and knotting all the threads even to the last one, fig. 555. Take the 4 middle threads and make 6 flat double knots and then turn the bars of knots inwards; the return of the cord is indicated as before in fig. 555.

MACRAME BORDERS (figs. 556, 557, 558, 559).—Length of the single threads for No. 6 of Coton a tricoter D.M.C: 50 c/m.

Knot the threads on for both these borders in the ordinary way, followed by a single horizontal bar of knots. For fig. 556, make a triple slanting bar of knots, with 4 threads, slanting one from right to left and one from left to right; then make a single horizontal bar and add another series of triple bars slanting the opposite way; complete the pattern by a vertical bar, lay another cord and make a horizontal bar upon it on the wrong side of the work and finish by tying the threads together, two and two, as shown in fig. 558, detail a, cut them, detail b, and push the knot upwards, detail c.



COLOURS—For fig. 556: Bleu-Lapis 342 or Bleu-Gentiane 480—For fig. 557: Rouge-Turc 321 or Rouge-Cerise 3318.[A]]

For fig. 557 take 8 threads for a group of knots. Make all the bars slanting from right to left first, fig. 559, then take the 5th thread, counting from left to right, for the cord, fig. 559 again, and begin the second series of bars of knots, slanting from left to right. Fasten off the threads as already explained in fig. 558.

The same pattern can also be used as an insertion: bags for instance, look very well made of alternate stripes of this insertion and stripes made of flat knots. The openwork stripes must be wider than the close ones.



MACRAME FRINGE (figs. 560 and 561).—Entire length of the threads, including the fringe, for No. 5 of Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C: 120 c/m.



1st row—knot on the threads, as in fig. 520, in the following order: 4 double blue threads, 3 single dark brown, 1 double light brown, 3 single dark brown; then again 4 double blue, and so on.

2nd row—divide the threads into groups, so that the brown threads come in the middle with 4 blue ones on either side. Begin on the left = cover the 4th blue thread, which comes nearest to the first brown one, with flat double knots, made over the 1st, 2nd and 3rd brown thread and the light brown one = cover the 3rd blue thread with the 4 brown threads and the 4th blue, which served as the cord in the 1st row of knots = cover the 2nd blue thread with the 4 brown and the 4th and 3rd blue = cover the 1st blue with the 4 brown and the 4th, 3rd and 2nd blue.



In the working detail, fig. 561, the dark lines represent the blue threads, the light ones, the brown.

When the quadruple bar, slanting from left to right, is finished, make a similar one, from right to left, then connect the 1st and 16th thread by a double knot and pass the first blue thread on the left over to the right group.

2nd row—make similar groups, reversed, so that the brown knots come next to the last blue ones and the blue knots again terminate the groups of bars; the brown threads will be stretched flat between the preceding group and the next.

3rd and 5th row—like the first.

4th row—like the 2nd.

COLOURS: Ecru, or any light shade mentioned in the D.M.C colour card.[A]]

After the 5th row of groups, take 4 brown threads on either side of the blue knots, and make them into a double chain, fig. 546, consisting of 12 knots, and make 6 flat double knots with the last threads.

Lastly, unite all the threads of one group of bars, and make them into a handsome tassel by the addition of other threads.

MACRAME FRINGE (fig. 562).—Entire length of the threads for No. 3 of Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C: 75 c/m.

1st row—Knot on the threads as in fig. 527, succeeded by a double horizontal bar of knots.

2nd row—twisted or waved knots with 4 knots, fig. 531.

3rd row—double horizontal bar of knots.

4th row—with 6 threads: 1 double bar, slanting from left to right, and 1 bar, from right to left, joined together by the last threads.

5th row—with the 4 threads coming from the groups of bars: 1 single chain, fig. 545, with 4 crossings of the threads, quite close to the point where the groups meet, and 1 single chain with 7 crossings, made with the outside threads.

6th row—similar groups of bars to those of the 4th row, but set the reverse way and terminating in a horizontal bar. For the tassels, add a thick bunch of threads to each group of 6 threads that issues from the work.



FRINGE WITH MOSAIC BORDER (figs. 563, 564, 565).—Entire length of the threads for No. 8 of Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C: 75 c/m.

1st row—knot the threads on, as in fig. 515, one ecru and one brown alternately, succeeded by a single horizontal bar of double knots.

2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th row—4 rows of knots, such as are seen in fig. 564, in process of being made, and in fig. 565, finished, and succeeded by a flat knot. The colours alternate in the knots; in the 2nd and 4th row the knot is set in the light colour, in the 3rd and 5th, in the dark.

6th row—1 horizontal bar of double knots over a fresh cord.

7th row—lay down another cord, make another horizontal bar of knots and between every second of the light double knots, loop on 1 red thread; the loop, that fastens it to the cord, taking the place of the knot.

8th row—lay down a third cord, and make 2 double knots with the red threads between the knots of ecru thread.

9th row—lay down a fourth cord, make a half knot with every red thread.

10th row—lay down a fifth cord, then make a horizontal bar of double knots, as in the 6th row; the red threads are taken to the wrong side and passed over. Knot the ends of the threads together in clusters of 6, about 15 m/m. below the last cord of knots.

COLOURS: Ecru and Bleu-Indigo 322, or Vert-Perroquet 697 and Rouge-Ecarlate 498.[A]]



MACRAME GROUND (figs. 566, 567, 568).—Fill the shuttles with the length of thread that you think will be required for the work.

1st row—knot the threads on, as in fig. 515, 4 blue and 4 ecru alternately, and make a double horizontal bar.

2nd row—beginning in the middle, make 2 flat double knots with 8 blue threads; with the 4 blue threads on the left, make a quadruple group of bars over the 4 blue threads on the right. These quadruple groups of bars, called "shell bars" are illustrated in detail in fig. 567. Unite the blue threads at the sides by flat double knots.

The beginning and continuation of the openwork parts of the pattern are explained in fig. 568.

The threads that issue from the last group of knots are used for making the second shell bar, the two inner bars of which are made in ecru cotton, and the two outer in blue. When this striped shell bar is finished, the blue threads are again united for the openwork figure.



COLOURS: White, Bleu-Indigo 311 and 312 or Gris-Amadou 385, Brun-Caroubier 356, 357.[A]]

FRINGE WITH FOUNDATION WORKED ON THE WRONG SIDE (figs. 569, 570, 571, 572).—Entire length of the threads for No. 8 of Coton a tricoter D.M.C: 80 c/m.

Knot the threads on, as in fig. 515 and after finishing the horizontal bar, make from left to right, over the 1st thread, 1 double knot made with the 2nd and with the 3rd thread.

Then, over the 2nd thread, which has now become the 1st, make double knots with the 3rd, 1st, 4th and 5th thread; then, over the 3rd thread, counting now from right to left, which in the knotting on figured as the 4th: 1 double knot with the 5th and 2nd thread.

Make the same group from right to left, only at the 3rd change of thread make 5 double knots instead of 2, and let the last knots count for the new group of bars, turned the opposite way.



In the middle of two opposing groups of bars, make a flat double knot with 2 of the right threads and 2 of the left.

When the second horizontal bar is finished, turn the work round, and go on working on the wrong side, making plain double knots, as in fig. 571, turned in one row, all from right to left, and in the next, from left to right.

When you have worked 10 such rows of knots, begin to make one knot less on either side of a group, so as to form pointed scallops of knots which you finish off with a plain bar.

Tassels are then made with the threads that issue from each scallop, and when these are sewn up, turn the work round to the right side, where the knots, made on the wrong side, will present the appearance indicated in fig. 572.



COLOURS: Ecru, Rouge-Turc 321 and Rouge-Grenat 358 or Violet-Mauve 315 and 316, and Vert-Bouteille 494.[A]]

MACRAME FRINGE (fig. 573).—Entire length of the threads for No. 6 of Coton a tricoter D.M.C: 65 c/m.

Knot on double threads, as in figs. 517 and 524, to count as single in the working directions = * 1 thread of red, colour 358, 3 of ecru, 1 of red, colour 358, 1 of red, colour 321, 3 of ecru, 1 of red, colour 321, and repeat from *.

1st row—6 chain knots made with every 4 threads.

2nd row—a single horizontal bar of knots.

3rd row—collecting knots, fig. 530, made with the ecru threads over the 4 dark and the 4 light red ones, and flat double knots over the 4 ecru threads.

4th row—collecting knots over 4 ecru threads with 4 red and 2 ecru threads.

5th row—collecting knots in the centre of the groups, with the ecru threads.

6th row—similar to the 4th.

7th row—similar to the 5th.

Then take the red threads on the right and left and twist them, each cluster separately, from left to right between the thumb and forefinger, as you do in making a cord, then unite them together, twisting them from left to right. Fasten off the cord by a knot, beneath which the ends of thread form a little tassel. Collect all the ecru threads together and make them into a heavy tassel with the aid of supplementary threads.



COLOURS: Vert-Mousse 471 and Rouge-Cornouille 450, or Rouge-Framboise 686 and Gris-Coutil 323.[A]]

BORDER WITH SHELL KNOTS (figs. 574, 575, 576, 577).—Fill the macrame shuttles with the requisite length of thread. Knot the threads on, as in fig. 520, in the following order; 1 double thread of colour 471, 6 double threads of colour 450, 2 of colour 471, 6 of colour 450, 1 of colour 471.

From left to right and over the 1st thread: 1 double knot with the 2nd thread; over the 4th thread of colour 450, and from right to left, double knots with the 3rd, 2nd and 1st thread of the same colour = from left to right: 1 double knot with the 6th thread of colour 450 over the 5th, and with the 3rd thread over the 2nd = from right to left: 5 double knots over the 8th thread of colour 450 = from left to right: 1 double knot over the 10th thread, 1 double knot over the 5th thread, 1 double knot over the 1st thread = from right to left: 7 double knots over the 12th thread = from left to right: 3 detached double knots.

Then, from left to right, and subsequently from right to left = with 6 green threads: 2 double bars slanting over the 2 red threads (see the top of fig. 577); unite the 4 red threads in the middle and make a shell knot with them, fig. 575, consisting of 6 flat knots, fig. 576; take 2 threads on the right and 2 on the left, turn them down to the left and right, and then from the wrong side to the right, over the threads that come from the bars and close with a flat knot. On the sides, make double bars and between each bar, 2 single chain knots.



Fill the empty spaces under the outside shell knots, with 9 flat double knots; under the middle knot make bars of inter-crossed knots, of which a clear explanation will be found in fig. 577.

To join two borders of the kind together, pass the thread of the second border over the thread on which the bar in the middle of the outer scallop is knotted.

FRINGE WITH SHELL KNOTS (fig. 578).—Entire length of the single threads for No. 12 of Coton a tricoter D.M.C: 90 c/m.



The threads must be taken double, counting as one. Knot them on, as in fig. 524. This exceedingly effective pattern is a very simple one to work and can easily be copied from the engraving by following, for the bars, figs. 537 to 544; for the collecting knots fig. 530, for the large shell knots figs. 575 and 576, and for the chain of flat double knots, fig. 536 detail a.

The tassels that complete the fringe must depend from the last collecting knot and hang between the triple bars of knots and beneath the collecting knot.

COLOURS: Ecru, Rouge-Turc 321 and Bleu-Indigo 312.[A]]

MACRAME BORDER OR FRINGE (fig. 579).—Entire length of the threads for No. 10 of Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C: 170 c/m.